CCHEESE IN

BAKERY PRODUCTS

Editor—Gur Ranhotra
Assoc. Editor—Janette Gelroth Volume XXI, Issue 2 February, 1999

USING CHEESE IN BAKERY PRODUCTS

Bill Haines
Vice President
Business to Business Marketing
Dairy Management Inc.
Rosemont, IL 60018

INTRODUCTION profile. There are more than 200 varieties of cheese produced
in the United States.
Protein, fat and sugar (lactose) are the major solids in
fluid milk. Cheese is a concentrated dairy product made
NATURAL AND PROCESS CHEESES
from fluid milk. It is defined as the fresh or matured
product obtained by draining the whey (water component There are two primary categories of cheeses—natural
of fresh milk) after coagulation of casein, the major milk and process—that can be used as ingredients in bakery
protein. Although almost all cheese manufactured in the products. Natural cheeses tend to be more flavorful, whereas
United States is produced from cow’s milk, sheep and process cheeses are smoother and have better melt. Low-fat
goat’s milk are also successfully utilized in cheesemaking. and non-fat versions of both types of cheeses, as defined by
Cheese is the perfect ingredient to add value to bakery the Code of Federal Regulations, are available for use as
products. It is primarily used for its organoleptic ingredients. However, lower fat versions tend to not perform
properties, as it provides a high level of palatability, flavor as well as the full-fat, standardized products.
and satiety. Cheese also contributes functionally and
nutritionally. This bulletin presents information on Natural Cheese
different types of cheeses that can be used in bakery Natural cheese is a general classification for cheese that
products. A bulletin published last year (1) provided is made directly from milk. In fresh, unripened cheese, the
technical information on other dairy ingredients (milk, curd, separated from the whey, can be used immediately. In
whey and lactose). mature or ripened cheese, the curd is modified by the action of
adding select strains of bacteria, mold, yeast or a combination
CHEESEMAKING of these ripening agents or their enzymes. These agents
Cheese results from coagulation of casein. Casein is continue to ripen the cheese over time, changing the cheese’s
coagulated by acid, which is produced through the addition flavor and texture as it ages. Table I lists various natural
of select microorganisms and/or through the use of cheeses and their corresponding standards (federal) of identity
coagulating enzymes, resulting in curd formation. Food- (2).
grade acidulants may also be used to acidify milk. This is
the process often used in the manufacture of fresh cheese. Process Cheese
The basic principles of cheesemaking are the same for Pasteurized process cheese, cheese food, cheese spread
all natural cheeses. These essentially involve extracting and cold pack are made by blending one or more different
water, whey proteins and lactose from milk, leaving the kinds of natural cheeses into a homogeneous mass. Other
other milk solids behind. A variety of cheeses, however, optional ingredients such as salt and emulsifier may be added
are produced because of the different ingredients used and for flavor and functionality. This blend of ingredients is
processes employed during the making and aging of melted, stirred, formed and packaged. Table II lists process
cheese. Each cheese has its own distinct texture and flavor

The information contained in this publication is true and accurate to the best of our knowledge. However, since conditions are beyond our control, nothing contained herein should be
construed as a recommendation, guarantee, or warranty, either expressed or implied by the American Institute of Baking. Neither should the mention of registered brand names be
construed as an endorsement of that product by the American Institute of Baking. Material contained in this publication copyrighted, 1998, by the American Institute of Baking.
Subscriptions can be ordered from the Institute by writing the American Institute of Baking, 1213 Bakers Way, Manhattan, KS 66502, or calling 1-800-633-5137,
www.aibonline.org.
 TABLE I

SELECT NATURAL CHEESES AND THEIR STANDARDS

OF IDENTITY (UNITED STATES)

Cheese Maximum Minimum Milkfat (%)

Moisture In Solids In Cheese
(%)
Soft, unripened
Cottage 80 — 4
Cream 55 — 33
Neufchâtel 65 — 20-33
Semi-soft, ripened
Monterey Jack 44 50 28
Firm/Hard, ripened
Cheddar 39 50 30.5
Colby 40 50 30
Swiss 41 43 25.4
Very Hard/Grating, ripened
Asiago (aged) 32 42 28.6
Parmesan 32 32 21.8
Romano 34 38 25.1
Pasta Filata
Mozzarella (semi-soft)
Whole milk 52-60 45 18
Low-moisture, part-skim 45-52 30-45 14
From reference 2

TABLE II

PROCESS CHEESES AND THEIR STANDARDS

OF IDENTITY (UNITED STATES) a

Pasteurized Process Cheese: It must contain no more than 1% additional moisture and
no less fat than the legal limits on the natural cheese from which it is made.

Pasteurized Process Cheese Food: It must be at least 51% cheese by weight. Moisture
cannot exceed 44% and cannot be less than 23%. It may also contain other dairy products
such as cream, milk, whey or concentrated mixtures of any of these.

Pasteurized Process Cheese Spread: It is similar to cheese food but contains 44-60%
moisture and at least 20% fat.

Cold Pack Cheese: It must contain the same amount of moisture as the cheese used to
make it. No water can be added.
From reference 2
a
All these process cheeses can have fruits, vegetables, meat or spices added. In that case, the
moisture can be 1% higher and fat 1% lower.

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cheeses and their corresponding (federal) standards of jalapeños (Pepper Jack). Monterey Jack melts quickly, baking
identity (2). well into breads.
Mozzarella Cheese: A pasta filata (cooked and stretched)
COMMONLY USED CHEESES IN BAKERY cheese, mozzarella has a fresh, mild and delicate flavor. It is
APPLICATIONS semi-soft and smooth, with a closed, plastic texture.
Mozzarella browns when heated and melts easily. It bakes
Unripened Cheeses
well into or onto breads.
Cottage Cheese: A soft, fresh, cottage cheese has a Parmesan Cheese: Parmesan is a very hard/grating
mild, slightly acidic flavor. It consists of soft and cheese. It has a granular texture with a hard, brittle rind. This
individual white-colored moist curds in a light cream. light yellow cheese has a sharp, piquant flavor that gets
Curds may be large or small. The curds resist melt, yet sharper with age. Parmesan browns quickly when heated. It
bake well in cakes and breads. bakes well into or onto breads.
Cream Cheese: A soft, fresh, cream cheese has a Swiss Cheese: A firm/hard cheese, Swiss has a smooth
mild, slightly acidic flavor. This white-colored cheese is texture with large gas holes or eyes. This shiny, pale yellow
soft, smooth and spreadable. It melts quickly, as well as cheese has a mild to slightly robust, sweet, nutty flavor. It can
binds other ingredients. It is often used in baked desserts be smoked. Swiss adds a nutty taste to doughs and breads.
like cheesecake and in dessert frostings.
Mascarpone Cheese: A soft, fresh, mascarpone PROCESS CHEESES IN
cheese has a mild, slightly acidic flavor. This white- BAKERY APPLICATIONS
colored cheese has a creamy, whipped consistency and
These cheeses have a soft body and are available in a
blends easily with other ingredients. It is often used in
desserts like tiramisu. variety of color intensities, ranging from light yellow to
Neufchâtel Cheese: A soft, fresh, Neufchâtel cheese orange, depending on how much color is added. Heat
processing of these cheeses prevents them from curing during
has a mild, slightly acidic flavor. This white-colored
storage and assures a uniform, mild flavor. Flavor can be
cheese is creamy and spreadable. It is a lower fat
tailored to meet application specifications. These cheeses are
alternative to cream cheese. This cheese is often used in
often selected for their uniform melt and consistent flavor, and
baked desserts. It also bakes well into or onto breads.
are available in a wide range of melting characteristics from
Ricotta Cheese: A soft, fresh, ricotta cheese has a
high-temperature products to slow-melt and extra-melt
mild, slightly sweet flavor. This white-colored cheese has
varieties. They bake well into doughs and breads.
a moist consistency and blends easily with other
ingredients. Ricotta is often used as a filling in desserts
like cannoli or kolacky. It is also baked into cakes and
USE OF CHEESES IN
breads.
BAKERY FORMULATIONS
Ripened Cheeses The success of cheese breads in retail bakeries and
foodservice facilities is beginning to spur interest among
Asiago Cheese: Asiago is a very hard/grating, ripened
wholesale bakers. As new flavors and forms of variety breads
cheese. It has a granular texture with a hard, brittle rind.
(breads other than white pan breads) continue to grow,
This light yellow cheese has a sharp, piquant flavor that
cheeses are finding application in many of them, especially
gets sharper with age. Asiago browns quickly when
pocket breads and focaccia. Cheeses are also finding
heated. It bakes well into and onto breads.
application in bagels, croissants and pizza crust. In
Cheddar Cheese: A firm/hard cheese, Cheddar has a
combination with ingredients such as vegetables, herbs and
smooth, closed texture that becomes crumbly with age.
spices, cheese is opening up new opportunities for adding
This nearly white to orange cheese, depending if color has
been added, has a mild flavor when first produced that gets flavor and texture, especially to the higher value segment of
sharper with age. It often comes with added condiments the category.
Sharper cheeses like Cheddar and Parmesan give a flavor
like peppers or salami bits, or it can be smoked. Cheddar
boost to breads, muffins and breadsticks. Colored cheeses like
melts slowly, baking well into breads and biscuits.
Cheddar and Colby add an appealing yellow or cream color to
Colby Cheese: A firm/hard cheese, Colby has a
bakery products. The milkfat in all cheese adds texture, acts as
smooth, moist, open texture. This light yellow to orange
a flavor carrier, helps release other flavors and contributes to
cheese, depending on how much color has been added, has
browning.
a mild to mellow flavor that is slightly sweet. Colby melts
A key application for cheese in the pastry segment
quicker than Cheddar, baking well into breads and biscuits.
continues to be cheesecake (3). Opportunities for flavor
Monterey Jack Cheese: A semi-soft cheese,
innovation in cheesecake are endless. Beyond cheesecakes,
Monterey Jack has a smooth texture with small openings
cheese can also be used in other pastries—breakfast and
throughout. This creamy, white cheese has a mild to
mellow flavor. It often comes with added condiments like dessert items. Cream, Neufchâtel, ricotta and mascarpone
cheeses are the traditional favorites here.

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 Cottage cheese adds moisture and texture to bakery SUMMARY
products. It also acts as a flavor carrier, helps release other Much of milk’s goodness is concentrated in cheese.
flavors and adds a creamy, dairy flavor. Cheese contributes significantly to bakery products in terms of
Formulas are presented for a number of bakery taste, flavor and nutritional value (protein, minerals and
products where various cheeses are commonly used. Table vitamins). Cheese is also a perfect fit with the hottest trends in
III (page 5) lists four dessert products—maple mascarpone ethnic and specialty foods. Bakery products formulated with
cheesecake, low-calorie orange cheesecake, sweet cheese cheese ingredients deliver an upscale image that meets the
cobbler and tiramisu. Table IV (page 6) lists formulas for gourmet expectations of today’s consumer. Cheese also
non-dessert items—orange drop biscuits, cheesy pear nut contributes to a more natural, home-style image of traditional
bread and spicy vegetable corn bread. bakery products. Whether upscale or traditional products,
consumers typically respond favorably to the word “cheese”
IDEAS FOR USING CHEESE when it appears on the product label.
IN BAKERY PRODUCTS
REFERENCES
Besides the traditional products, some discussed here
(Tables III and IV), other possibilities for using cheeses to 1. HAINES. B. Dairy ingredients and their use in bakery
add variety to bakery products are listed below: foods. Technical Bulletin. American Institute of Baking.
Volume XX, issue 3, 1998.

Using cheese combinations in stuffed 2. CFR. Code of Federal Regulations 21 (part 133). GPO,
breads. Washington, DC. 1991.

Providing pre-portioned sprinkles or 3. ABBOUD, A. Technology of producing cheesecakes.

toppings with cheese for easy-warm Technical Bulletin. American Institute of Baking. Volume
convenience breads. XX, issue 4, 1998.

Using cheese with fruits, vegetables or ADDITIONAL READING

herbs for surprising combinations in
any type of bread. DMI. Cheese as an Ingredient. Dairy Ingredient Appli-cation
Guide. Dairy Management Inc., Rosemont, IL, 1997.
Looking to ethnic pastries for ideas and
inspiration.

Refining and boosting cheese flavors

by combining higher flavor cheese
products with traditional pastry cheese
favorites.

Page 4
 TABLE III

FORMULAS FOR FOUR CHEESE-BASED DESSERT PRODUCTS

Product and Use Level (%)

Ingredient Maple Low-Calorie Sweet Tiramisu
Mascarpone Orange Cheese
Cheesecake Cheesecake Cobbler
Flour, all purpose — — 24.23 —
Sugar, granulated 4.16 8.33 12.11 10.52
Sugar, brown — — 6.03 —
Milk, fluid — 2.50 — 11.41
Mascarpone cheese 27.97 — — 31.41
Ricotta cheese, part-skim — 35.00 —- —
Mozzarella cheese — — 27.24 —
Low-moisture, part-skim
Cream cheese, regular 13.99 —- — —
Cream cheese, light — 18.67 — —
Cream, heavy whipping — — — 20.89
Maple syrup 20.89 — — —
Orange juice — 20.67 — —
Apples — — 18.15 —
Eggs 15.61 — — —
Egg whites — 8.25 — —
Egg yolks — 4.25 — 7.15
Sour cream 14.36 — — —
Butter — — 12.11 —
Espresso coffee, prepared, cold — — — 4.20
Rum — — — 2.10
Cocoa, baking — — — 0.37
Corn starch 2.31 — — —
Gelatin, unflavored — 1.17 — —
Lemon extract 0.31 — — —
Orange extract 0.31 0.21 — —
Vanilla, 2x — 0.83 — 0.17
Cinnamon — — 0.13 —
Salt — 0.12 — —
Ladyfinger cookies — — — 11.78
Processing (Maple Mascarpone Cheesecake): Beat mascarpone and cream cheese until smooth. Add sour cream, sifted corn
starch, and sugar. Mix well. Gradually add eggs. Mix well. Add extracts and syrup. Mix until ingredients are thoroughly
combined. Do not over beat after adding eggs. Pour mixture into a prepared graham cracker crust. Place pan in water bath. Bake
at 3500 F (1760 C) for one hour.
Processing (Low-Calorie Orange Cheesecake): Sprinkle gelatin over orange juice to soften. Combine sugar, salt, egg yolks
and milk in pan over medium heat. Stir constantly until thickened. Remove from heat. Stir in gelatin mixture until dissolved.
Refrigerate about 45 minutes, until mixture is the consistency of unbeaten egg whites. Beat cheeses, vanilla and orange extract
until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Stir gelatin into cheese mixture. Beat egg whites separately. Fold into cheese mixture.
Pour into greased 9-inch springform pan. Refrigerate.
Processing (Sweet Cheese Cobbler): Dice cheese into 1-inch cubes. Marinate the cheese, half of the cinnamon and a third of
the sugars for 24 hours at refrigerated temperatures. Peel and dice the apples. Place apples and cheese mixture in baking dish.
Blend remaining ingredients to make streusel. Sprinkle over apple/cheese mixture. Bake at 3500 F (1760 C) for 10 minutes.
Processing (Tiramisu): Beat egg yolks and sugar until well blended. Beat in milk. Heat to boiling over medium heat, stirring
constantly. Reduce heat to low. Boil and stir for 1 minute. Remove from heat. Refrigerate for 1 hour. Mix cooled egg yolk
mixture and cheese until smooth. Separately, beat whipping cream and vanilla in chilled bowl on high speed until stiff. Separate
ladyfingers horizontally in half. Mix coffee and rum. Drizzle ladyfingers with mixture. Arrange ladyfingers in single layer in
ungreased pan. Spread half of the cheese mixture over ladyfingers followed by half of the whipped cream. Repeat layers.
Sprinkle with sifted cocoa. Refrigerate.

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 TABLE IV

FORMULAS FOR THREE CHEESE-BASED

BAKED PRODUCTS

Product and Use Level (%)

Orange Drop Cheesy Pear Spicy Vegetable
Ingredient Biscuits Nut Bread
Corn Bread
Flour, all purpose 30.49 14.99 7.81
Flour, whole wheat — 6.70 —
Cornmeal, yellow — — 16.57
Sugar, granulated 3.18 — —
Sugar, brown — 16.39 1.87
Milk, fluid — 22.72 22.10
Cottage cheese 19.43 — —
Cheddar cheese — 12.51 —
Colby cheese — — 7.61
Orange marmalade 15.91 — —
Pears, baking — 11.92 —
Corn kernels, sweet — — 10.87
Eggs 13.26 3.72 10.19
Butter 11.13 4.17 7.67
Pecans — 4.02 —
Carrots — — 5.43
Onions — — 5.43
Peppers, jalapeño — — 2.72
Orange peel 3.98 — —
Lemon peel —- 1.12 —
Vanilla, 2x —- 0.37 —
Baking powder 2.33 1.15 1.34
Baking soda 0.29 — —
Salt —- 0.22 0.39
Processing (Orange Drop Biscuits): Grate orange peel. Combine flour, sugar,
baking powder and soda. Cut in butter until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Stir
in orange peel. Separately, combine cottage cheese, eggs and marmalade. Mix well.
Stir into dry ingredients. Mix well. Drop by rounded tablespoon onto greased cookie
sheet. Bake at 4000 F (2040 C) for 15-18 minutes.
Processing (Cheesy Pear Nut Bread): Grate lemon peel. Melt butter. Shred
cheese. Peel and chop pears. Chop pecans. Combine flours, baking powder, lemon
peel and salt. Add milk, sugar, butter, eggs and vanilla. Stir just until moistened. Stir
in cheese, pears and pecans. Pour into greased loaf pan. Bake at 3500 F (1760 C) for
1 hour.
Processing (Spicy Vegetable Corn Bread): Melt butter. Shred cheese. Finely chop
carrots and peppers. Grate onions. Combine cornmeal, flour, baking powder, salt
and brown sugar. Separately, beat eggs, milk and butter. Stir into dry ingredients.
Add corn, cheese, carrots, onions and peppers. Mix until thoroughly combined. Fill
greased muffin cups. Bake at 4000 F (2040 C) for 30-35 minutes.

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