Apart from the main machineries employed in processing, several ancillary equipments are used at

various stages either separately or as a part of the main machine. These devices or equipments are
necessary for processing of textile material in proper form and right manner in order to get optimum
result of product and the best performance of the machine. Their absence either decreases the
efficiency of machine or results in poor quality of products obtained. For instance, after wet or dry
treatment without expanders, it becomes very difficult to process the fabric in completely open width
form as wrinkles cannot be removed from it. Similarly other devices/ancillary equipments adversely
affect the various process outcomes even with the machines having good features.
Some of the ancillary equipment/devices generally employed at various stages of wet processing are
listed below:
1. Rope opening devices
2. Wrinkle removing devices
3. Fabric guiders
4. Weft straightener
5. Static charge eliminator
6. Seam detector
7. Metal detector
8. Fabric batching device
9. Material handling equipments
10. Sewing machine

1. Rope opening devices/ Scutcher

Many times fabric is processed in rope form during various wet processing treatments like
scouring, washing, bleaching and dyeing depending on the equipment/machine employed. After
the wet treatment, in subsequent drying operation, the fabric is to be processed in its open width
form. Thereby, it is necessary to restore the open width state of the fabric from rope form. This
task is performed by rope opening device or scutcher.

Figure 1: Diagram of scutcher A)Pot eye, B)Brass beater, C)Scroll rollers and D)Plain roller

Scutcher (figure 1) consists of a pot eye, a revolving brass beater and spiral brass scroll rollers as
illustrated in figure. Scutcing units are available according to the width of the fabric to be
processed, which may vary from 1100 mm to 2100 mm. The device is arranged on an elevated
scaffolding and is located at a sufficiently long distance from the place where the fabric rope
may have been piled or waiting for opening.
The fabric in rope form is brought to pot eye A of scutcher by suitable arrangement of guiding
system and passed through it. The guiding system is driven by an A.C. electric motor. Pot eye is
situated at about 22 ft or more from the beater in order to facilitate easy opening of the rope; the
fabric is then led to a beater B (rapidly revolving against the direction of fabric) which opens it
into loose folds. It then passes between the scroll rollers(C) which finally complete the opening
action; scroll rolls are also revolving in the opposite direction to the fabric. At the end, fabric
either piled in trolley or batched or taken to subsequent processing machine.

Figure 2 : Seiren's Scutcher (Courtesy: SEIREN ELECTRONICS Co., LTD.)

In figure 2, the image and diagram of the Seiren's Scutcher (SEIREN ELECTRONICS Co., LTD.) is
illustrated. It consists of a rope hydro extractor, twist rectifier and fabric spreader, is designed so
that the three components perform their serial combined operations to rectify the fabric twisted in
a rope form to spread it.
The Seiren's Scutcher is also designed for application to a wide range of fabric from an
extremely thin woven fabric to a thick woven/knitted fabric.

 The twist rectifier is designed with photoelectric sensors , which allows the "twisted"
direction of the fabric to be optically detected on a "non-touch" direct basis, thus having
any adverse effect on the fabric.
 The fabric spreader is equipped with the Seiren's state of the art CENTER-ROBO to
ensure "accurate centering" of the fabric, as well as with two spreading rolls designed to
allow their touch angle to be changed to provide a "proper fabric spreading force", thus
enabling the fabric spreading operation to be done unmanned. In addition, the fabric
spreader features its excellent water/rust resistance, which allows it to be used even in a
harsh environment.
 The Seiren's Scutcher allows hydro extraction of the fabric, its twist rectification and
spreading to be done continuously, making it most suitable to improve the efficiency of
this series of operations and save labor involved in these operations.

2. Wrinkle removing devices

During processes like shearing & cropping, singeing, drying, continuous dyeing, printing, etc.,
the fabric should be free from creases and to be processed in completely open width form. Any
diversity from these requirements leads to malfunctioning of the process and desired result is
not achieved. It becomes utmost necessary to remove the wrinkles from the fabric and to bring
into its open width form. The main object of these devices is to free the fabric from creases
(wrinkles) and to stretch it slightly in weft direction. As a result fabric attains completely open
width form and suitable for subsequent treatment. These devices are standard fittings to be
used in conjunction with mangles and other machines in order to keep the fabric free from
wrinkles. Wrinkle removing devices normally referred to as Expanders. Expanders are available
in various forms:
1. Scrimp Rail
2. Scroll Roll
3. Bow Roll
4. Metal Expanders
5. Curve Bar Expander
2.1 Scrimp Rail
One of the simplest forms of expander is scrimp rail. It is a grooved bar, the ridges of which diverge from
the centre (figure 3); slight warp tension causes the fabric to “bind” on the rail and so slightly stretch the
weft, freeing it from creases. Another type of scrimp rail is composed of an oval metal discs, with fibre
washers between them, and threaded on to a square section steel bar.(j t marsh book 417)
Figure 3: Diagram of Scrimp rail roll

Figure 4: Scrimp rail rolls

2.2 Scroll roll

Scroll rolls (figure 5) are very efficient in wrinkle removal, opening and straightening the fabric
during manufacturing and processing. Scroll roll are available in different materials like
Ebonite, M.S, stainless steel, aluminum. For textile processing machines ebonite scroll rolls
are used, for materials like plastic, leather fabric, paper, vinyl, foils, ebonite is not suitable
because of generation of static electricity or damage the material. Scroll rollers are driven in
pairs (figure 6) in a counter direction to the fabric which passes between them. A device somewhat
similar in principle is formed by conical opening rollers which are set diagonally and the cones are
pivoted at a central point, and each fitted with a brake contrivance which causes one cone to stop
should the fabric run to the side where it is situated. This action also causes the two cones to swing
sideways from the pivot and make the fabric move back to its central position.
 Figure 5: Sketch of Different scroll rollers

Figure 6: Scroll Rollers mounted on spreading system

2.3 Bow Roll

Bow roll used to remove wrinkles and straightening of fabric are available in hard chrome
surface, rubber surface and also Teflon covering for different applications. Based on material
of construction various types of bowed roll are:
1. Curved rubber expanders
2. Metal expanders
Bow Rolls known as Banana Rolls, Spreader Rolls, Curve rubber expander are useful for
removing of wrinkles, slack edges, spreading and slit separation. Most of the Expander Rolls
are driven by fabric tension itself without any extra drive. Bow roll works only when there is
proper lead-in and lead-out distance and kept the roll in proper warp angle of fabric. To do
such warp angle adjustment, all rolls are supplied with bow angle adjusting worm-worm
wheel gearbox with hand wheel and counter pedestal bearing block, by use of this it is
possible to adjust the bow angle at 360 degree warp angle. When the Roll get maximum
wrinkle removing effect, the bow angle adjustment is stopped and roll on bow comes in
locked position, so no change in the bow setting takes place. All type of expanders are
available in bow angle adjustable type so one can adjust the bow angle when the machine is
in working condition. By fixing the Roll at best bow warp angle maximum spreading,
wrinkle removing or slit separating effects can be achieved. The diameter of the Roll
depends on speed and width of the fabric and also the mounting center.

2.3.1 Curved rubber expanders

Curved rubber expanders are used for removing wrinkles from fabric and mounted on textile
processing machines like calendars, dyeing, bleaching machines, drying Ranges, stenters,
weft straightener etc. Very often used in wet conditions, therefore special sealing are
provided for wet working condition and to avoid rusting of ball bearings inside the roll. The
simple curved rubber expander is formed by a rubber sleeve which covers a spring mounted
on a curved bar. In a modern type, flexibility is obtained by supporting the sleeve with
bobbins with plain rims running in ball-bearings-between each spring is fitted a spiral spring
and a number of distance pieces.

Figure 7: Curved rubber bar expander

 Figure 8: Three curved rubber bar expander assembly

2.3.2 Metal Expanders

Metal expanders are employed for high speed applications. Metal expander roll having hard
chrome surface is suitable for high speed applications. Expanders with Teflon sleeve are
suitable for non-sticking applications. On high speed machines wear & tear is not so much,
thereby it can replace rubber bow roll. Metal expanders are too heavy weight due their
internal construction and require extra drives & pulleys to drive the roll. Metal expanders
are mainly of 2 types:

1) INDIVIDUAL SEGMENT ROTATING TYPE

2) SINGLE PIECE ROTATING TYPE

Figure 9: Pulley driven Metal Expander roll with hard chrome surface
 Figure 10: Metal Expander in working condition

Mycock expander is individual segment rotating type metal expander. In the Mycock
expander, a number of grooved bobbins are interlocked and mounted on a curved shaft
(figure 9); the interlocking is sufficiently loose for the bobbins to rotate as a whole when the
fabric passes over them and is thus expanded. It is possible to raise the alternate bars,
increase the tension on the fabric and hence the lateral stretch; the usal types have 3 or 5
bars.

3. Fabric Guiders
Guiders are standard fittings used in conjunction with mangles and other processing machines in order
to keep the fabric in proper open width form by regulating the displacement of the selvedges. Fabric
guiders are always used in pair (left & Right) and mounted on adjusting frame. One of the best known is
Foxwell guider (figure 11). A driven rubber roller presses against a flat plate (figure 12) and the fabric
passes between them (figure 13); the inclination of the axis of the r0ller to the weft of the fabric draws
the fabric to the side of the machine. The plates are set to the width of the fabric and two stops are
adjusted to the position in which the fabric should enter the machine. Width can be increased or
decreased manually by the help of hand wheels provided on both side the adjusting frame (figure 11).
Two mounting brackets are fitted on adjusting from to fix the fabric guiders. Any outward displacement
of either stop releases the pressure and frees the fabric which is then drawn to the other side by the
opposite roller; the fabric is thus maintained between the stops.

Figure 11: Picture of Foxwell Guider

Figure 12 : Plate and roller arrangement in the guiders

Figure 13: Guiders fitted on adjustable frame and fabric path

Figure 14 : Fabric passage through pneumatic fabric guider

The guider rollers may be operated by compressed air, electromagnetically, or by the force from
a freely rotating roller in contact with the moving fabric. Based on this principle types of fabric
guiders are listed as follows
1. Mechanical
2. Elecrtrical
3. Electronic
4. Pneumatic
The cheapest fabric guiders are mechanical guider, which is having many moving parts and
require frequent service & replacement.
Electrical fabric guiders work on 55/65 volts D.C. supplied to its solenoid. Electrical fabric
guiders are available for fabric double folding machines after processing.
Pneumatic, air operated fabric guiders are almost maintenance free compared to other type of
guiders like Mechanical, Electrical or Electronic. Pneumatic fabric guider requires only normal
compressed air without any maintenance cost. These guiders can be used for various treatments
including chemicals, wet conditions during processing. There is no risk of electrical shock and
only 2.5 kgs. compressed air pressure is required for operating the these guiders. This type of
guiders are suitable for fabric width up to 24” to 84”.

4. Weft Straightener
Distortions in web construction of woven or knitted fabric results in faults like bowing and
skewness in the fabric.
Bow - A fabric condition resulting when knitted courses(in knitted fabric) or wefts ( in woven
fabric) are displaced from a line perpendicular to the selvages and form one or more arcs across
the width of the fabric. Different conditions of bow are illustrated in figure 13.
Skewness - A fabric condition resulting when knitted courses (in knitted fabric) or wefts ( in
woven fabric) are angularly displaced from a line perpendicular to the edge of the fabric as
shown in figure 14.
During manufacturing and processing these faults take place while working on different
machines. Such faults if not eliminated during wet processing, particularly printing or stentering,
the resultant product or final fabric will not meet the standards. For example, prints may be
displaced and mismatch, it is difficult to stitch garments from such fabric. Thus these faults
create tremendous problems to get the final quality product. It is utmost necessary. Therefore, it
is very important to prevent skew and bow in the wet processing of fabric. This task of
eliminating bow and skew is performed by the device weft straightener.

Figure 13 : Different types of Bow conditions Figure 14 : Typical skewness in fabric

in fabric

4.1 Manual Weft Straightener

In early days weft straightener operated manually, but now automatic weft straighter devices are
developed. In its simplest form manual weft straightener consists of a pair of straight rollers
(known as skew rolls for skew correction) and a pair of curved rollers (termed as bow rolls for
bow correction) mounted on a frame in such a way that the distance between the straight roller at
right and left side can be varied manually and curvature of curved roller can be adjusted due to
special bearings (figure 15).

Figure 15: Weft straightener device operated manually*

Detection of bow and skew in the running fabric is done manually by operator before process
and accordingly manually he operates the device to eliminate these faults before the fabric is
subjected to actual process.

Skew removal: If the weft inclination is at left selvedge (figure 14, condition A), this condition
of skew can be removed by increasing the distance of skew rollers at left end compared to that at
right end (figure 15 a) i.e. rollers move apart at left end. In case of skew condition as in figure 14
‘D’, the reverse displacement of skew rollers is to be done to remove such skew (figure 15 b) i.e.
rollers move apart at right end. These actions can be performed by push buttons provided in the
device (figure 15). By skilled observation and controlled movement of the skew rollers,
skewness can be removed successfully.

Removal of Bow : When bow arc is concave (figure 14 b) with respect to perpendicular line to
selvedges, elimination of such bow is done by movement of curved rollers in such a way that
bow arc tends to acquire convex curvature and hence weft become straight during running of the
fabric and vis-a-versa.
Thus manual removal of bow and skew depends on operator skill and his ability to detect the
fault and timely corrective action. Any human error may result in non rectification of bow and
skew.

4.2 Automatic Weft Straightener

In order to overcome human error, automatic weft straightners have been invented and designed
to detect the conditions of bow and skew according to process speed of the fabric in the machine
and then automatically rectifying the bow and skew. Such devices operates on pin wheel system
or photocell detection system. Nowadays, the well proven CCD matrix camera for detection of
skew and bow conditions in the fabric is employed in automatic weft straightener.

Basically, the device consists of the detectors detecting the state of the weft, irrespective of the
density of weft, the straight rollers straightening the bow of the fabric, the curved rollers
straightening the skew of the fabric, and control part controlling bow, skew and tension
according to the signals of the detectors. Detection of bow and skew is done by photoelectric
transmission and reflection method. The light scans the running fabric. Light penetrated between
the wefts of fabric is enlarged by a lens and passes through the lenses and slits which are
arranged at several angles. Then the machine analyzes the transmitted light and straightens the
skew and bow of the fabric by actuating each rollers.
Various textile machine manufacturers has developed these devices with precision of the result.
The image of automatic weft straightener manufactured by Semitronic shown in figure 17.
 Figure 17: Automatic weft straightener from Semitronic

Features of Semitronic automatic weft straightener

 Highly sensitive powered detectors.

 Intelligent signal processing.
 Automatic adapting to any material.
 Automatic light intensity control.
 Informative distortion indication.
 Ultra-fast line speed related response to control signals etc.
 Several helpful optional accessories to meet every particular requirement.
 The straightening system has only 2.7 m of cloth content, 3 skew and 2 (optional 3) bow
rollers controlled by built-in variable speed electric system.
 Photo-electric detection by 4-8 scanners (Rotating type) and associated projectors.
 Tension reduction by electronic servo control drive of bow rollers and a tacho-generator
to prove a reference of line-speed is an important component for straightening knitted
fabrics.
 A very special feature of the straightening system is its anti-creasing design.
 The bowl rollers are perfectly arranged against any fabric creasing tendency. Their
efficiency is governed by the bow rollers position.
 Straitomat straighteners comply with the very high safety standards required by EEC
directives, when they are equipped with safety doors (options)
 The system are supplied ready for connection to a mains supply and are compact to fit the
limited space, available in the finishing line.

Erhardt+Leimer Gmbh has introduced Elstraight HD automated weft-straightener device is

a smart solution to weft straightening. The image of Elstraight HD weft straightener along
with its technical specification is given in figure 18.
Figure 18: Elstraight HD Automatic weft straightener with technical specifications**

Elstraight HD weft straightening system employs CCD Matrix cameras for weft detection. In
combination with high dynamic AC drive systems, a fast proportional correction at any speed is
possible. Intelligent mathematical measurement algorithms together with FFT filter technology
improve the speed and reliability of the detection and correction of skew and bow. The device is
suitable for all type of textiles including technical textiles. Figure 19 shows the sketch of fabric
threading through the device and lay out of the device.
Figure 19: Lay out of the weft automated straightener Elstraight HD

Automated weft straightener gives precise and efficient results compared to manual one. These
devices are mounted on various processing machines like stenter and printing machine. Weft
straightener can be installed between padding mangle and overfeed system of stenter machine as
illustrated in figure 20.

Figure 20 : Weft straightener installed on stenter machine

It can be installed over the machine, the installation on printing machine is shown in figure 21.
Figure 21: Weft straightener istalled on printing machine

Though the fundamental principal of bow and skew rectification remains same, the technical
specifications of weft straightener manufactured by different manufacturer differ to some extent.
Depending on requirements a selection can be made. Some of the many manufacturers of
automated weft straightener in India and other countries of world are listed in table 1.

Table 1: Weft straightener manufacturer

Country Name of manufacturer Model

India Semitronik, Gujarat
India Unix Stitchmachines Pvt. Ltd. Weft straightener
India Batliboi Ltd., Ludhiana Weft straightener
S. Korea Yess Tech Yess Tech
Germany Erhardt+Leimer GmbH Elstraight HD, Elstraight standard
S.Korea Daeil Tech, Daegu Daeil weft straightener
Japan Seiren Electronics Co. Ltd. DENSIMATIC
Italy Bianco S.P.A. MINIDIGITEX - Optical
weftstraightener
Italy Mahlo MAHLO WEFT STRAIGHTENER
RFMC 94h

5. Static charge eliminator

During processing of fabric, friction of fabric with guide rolls and other part of the machine may
create development of static electric charge. Because of the static electric charges depending up
on their intensity and surrounding atmosphere, one may see sparking or operator or worker in
surrounding area may get shock. Due to static charge fabric may wrap around the guide rollers
causing the break down. In printing machine & coating, laminating machine the static may result
in fire on solvent based ink which can cause burning of machineries and even loss of human life.
In winding process - instead of getting clean winding, one may get crease in winding. Static
electric charge also attracts fine dust particle which gives shabby appearance to the product.
Higher the speed of the machine more is the generation of static electric charge resulting into
intense problem and if it is not eliminated, speed of the machine is to be reduced resulting into
production loss.
To prevent these problem one has to either neutralize the static charge or it should be conducted
away to the ground. Static charge eliminator (figure 22) conduct the static charge away to the
ground and we can get rid of this problems.

Figure 22: Static charge eliminator

Eliminator bars of this device are mounted as near as possible to the fabric under process. On
getting supply from the control unit, the surrounding air is ionized and because of this, static
electric charge is conducted away to the ground. Power Control Unit - Can connect upto 3 Nos.
eliminator bars of upto 120 inches working width.

6. Seam detector
Fabric thickness is a vital parameter at many stages of processing, it not only affect the performance but
also important to prevent the damage to the machine. The settings in some processing machines like
shearing, calendaring is based on fabric thickness. Fabric thickness higher than the set one may result in
damage of the important part of machine and also improper result, e.g. if fabric thickness is more than
the set shearing height, it may give improper shearing performance and distance between ledger blade
and rotating spiral becomes less than the fabric thickness, it can damage the blade and spiral which are
very important and expensive part of the machine.
Seam is introduced in the fabric when it is stitched end to end in order to get a continuous length for
processing. Seaming is joining the overlap of two pieces of fabric, usually near their edges***. Seam is
directly related to the fabric thickness, at seam area the fabric thickness is almost doubled than normal
thickness. That is if seam passes through processing zone like shearing head or calendar nip, it damages
the part of machine. It is utmost necessary to protect the main machine from damage due to fabric
seam. The device seam detector is designed to overcome this problem.
6.1 Function and advantages of seam detector
Seam detector should be able to locate the fabric seams accurately while automatically activating
other functions of the machine. The main function of seam detector is to detect the seam in running
fabric, communicating seam signal and simultaneously regulating the raising or lifting devices of the
machine like shearing & cropping and calenders. seam detector systems can be used to activate the
following:

 Open a calendar nip for seam passage

 Raise a shearing blade
 Seam mapping system
 Alarm or warning light
 Raise sueding machine sanding rolls
 Machine stop at exact position of seams

Installation of seam detectors on processing machines like shearing & cropping and calenders
offer following vital advantages:

 Number of operators can be reduced and labor can be minimized which reduce the cost of
production
 Machine can be run at any speed thereby high production can be achieved
 It gives maximum efficiency of the machine and thus improves the quality of fabric
 It prevent damage to valuable shear cutter and calendar rolls
 Since detection of seam is done by device, it eliminates the human error, constant
presence of operator and minimizes the area surrounding the seam unprocessed

6.2 Types of seam detectors

Depending on seam detection system, communication of signal and regulating function of main
machine, seam detectors are available in two types:

1. Mechanical seam detectors

2. Electronic seam detectors

There are number of manufacturers of seam detectors in India and abroad. Menzel (USA) offers both
types of seam detectors. Electronic seam detectors are manufactures by Semitronik (INDIA).

Image of seam detector manufactured by Menzel is shown in figure 23. Standard features found
on all Menzel mechanical seam detectors are:

 Sturdy steel framework.

 Two non-marking sensing rolls for accurately locating seams.
 Micrometer gap setting is adjustable for a variety of fabric thicknesses.
 Limit switch activates predetermined functions

Standard features found on electronic seam detectors of Menzel are:

 A deep throat sensing head with dual photo-electric detecting sensors provides the most
accurate seam detection possible, regardless of web consistency.
 Control box with sensitivity switch puts control at operator's fingertips.
 On/off switch and output relay.
Figure 23: Seam detectors from Menzel (USA) Figure 24: Semitrinok (India) seam detector

Standard features of Semitronik seam detector (figure 24) are:

 Sensing device with switching amplifier and other circuitry on printed circuit board.
 The control relay having 3 set of changeover contacts for operating cutter lifting or
stopping device of shearing / cropping machine or pressure releasing device of
calendaring machine.
 The control unit is also available with proportional sequence controller to operate no. of
cutters in such a way that minimum area surrounding the seam is passed unsheared
irrespective of speed of the machine.
 Digital speed indicator to indicate the speed of the machine
 Data storage such as
o Total production per shift, per day
o Number of machine stoppage per shift
o Stoppage time of each machine and total machine stoppage time

7. Metal detectors
The presence of metal particles in fabric is dangerous while processing on machine particularly
shearing & cropping and calendar machines. Any traces of metal particle can damage the
expensive shearing cutters. When such metal particles present on fabric surface comes in contact
with smooth surface of calendar rolls, it damages the rolls. In order to protect the machines from
such damage it is necessary to free the fabric from metal particles before it comes in contact with
the vital part of the machine. Metal detectors employed on such machine detect any traces of
metal in the fabric passing through it and communicate the signal to control panel. Control panel
take action to stop the machine with indication of metal presence. Corrective action for removal
of metal from the fabric is carried out manualy. Thus metal detector helps in protecting the
machine from damage.
Various companies manufacture metal detectors for textile applications. Erhardt+Leimer GmbH
(Germany), Costruzioni Elettroniche Industriali Automatismi (C.E.I.A. SpA, Italy) are few
manufacturers of textile metal detectors.
Figure 25: Metal detector model TE/SLD (courtesy CEIA SpA, Italy)
Advanced metal detector produced by CEIA SpA is shown in figure 25. Silent features of this
device are7:
 Very high Sensitivity to all magnetic and non-magnetic metals, including stainless steel
 High Immunity to environmental Interference
 Compact and robust construction
 Wide Detection Speed range, from 1 up to 600 m/min
 Easy installation and setting
 Complete selection range: 35 models available
 IP65 (RC version) high degree of protection
 Fully Digital Programming
 Internal data logging with data and timestamp for Quality control
 High contrast graphic OLED display
 Password protected with separate user and engineer level
 Bluetooth communication for setting and maintenance through external PC
 Autolearn function for automatic setting of the maximum sensitivity in dry and wet conditions
 Built-in function for automatic measurement of the external interferences

Metal detector system MDS50 is produced by Erhardt+Leimer GmbH (Germany) which detects
the smallest of metal particles right across the entire web of fabric. It is a digital metal
detector system suitable for wovens, knits and nonwoven textiles and working width range from
600 to 5600 mm.

8. Fabric batch winder

Fabric when processed in continuous manner and open width form, it is wound into a big batch.
This task is carried out by suitable fabric batching device normally termed as Batch winders. The
concept of the winding is quite new. Modern batch winders utilizes the state-of-the-art
technological knowledge and computer control to provide the best possible winding of a batch in
the length up to several kilometres at up to 6000 kg. The computer-controlled method of winding
enables operator to handle the fabric gently and with care and is suitable not only for common
textiles but also, and before all, for the complicated winding of e.g. industrial fabrics, glass-fibre
fabrics and many others. The functioning of the Winder is based on winding the fabric on a
fixed, freely rotatable winding core with the help of driving and smoothing rollers. It is important
to regulate the fabric tension on batch as some times it affects the quality of dyeing. Uniform
tension in fabric batch can be achieved by regulating the speed of winding. The speed control
can be enabled by the computer-controlled pull of the fabric and the thrust (pressure) of the
drawing and smoothing rollers upon the batch. The system utilizes and processes information
from special tensometric sensors.
The NV 220C batch winders (figure 26) manufactured by CEDIMA Meziměstí , Germany uses
carefully developed algorithms which regulate the fabric tension accurately at all stages of the
winding process (starting, actual winding, stopping) without causing any damage to the fabric.
The winder can be connected to the central data collection facility, the length of the batch can be
monitored and the winder is switched off as soon as the required length of the batch is achieved.

Figure 26: Batch winder model NV 220C

9. Material handling equipments

Textile material is processed in loose, yarn or fabric form in wet processing. Processing is not
one stage process, number of processes are performed in wet processing till the end product.
Textile material is transported from one machine to another machine and stored at suitable place
in processing department of textile industry. Proper handling equipments are required from
movement of material from one place to another place. Handling of the textile material during
internal transport and storage should be carried out carefully in order to maintain quality of the
product. Different handling equipments are employed to perform this task. Now a days with
introduction of ISO 9000 quality system, housekeeping and material handling has become
important to avoid major nonconformance. Thus material handling is an important aspect of
textile wet processing.
Material handling equipment must fulfill some requirements like:
 Construction material should not impart rust stain to the fabric. Suitable material is
engineering plastic, stainless steel etc
  Heavy duty wheels and bearings should be used for smooth movement
 Robust and sturdy construction
 Easily movable
 Capacity to store enough material

Different types of material handling equipments are available and used as per the form of the
material and type transportation, type of requirement on machine. Various types of material
handling equipments includes batch, different types of trolley, pallets, plastic cages etc. In order
to maintain smooth and efficient handling, proper material handling equipment should be
employed.
Different types of trollies are illustrated in figure 27. Horse shoe and camel hump trollies are
suitable for movement of the finished fabric from one place to another place. Frame batching
trolley is used movement of fabric and at entry and exit end of the continuous machine for
batching of processed fabric. Dyeing house container trolly is employed for storage and
movement of yarn packages in dye house. Box containers are suitable for storage and movement
of fabric to avoid handling stain in the fabric. Other types of handling equipments are also
available to suit particular requirement. Various local, national and international level
manufacturers produce such equipments.

Figure 27: Various handling equipments a) Horse shoe trolley, b) Camel hump trolley, c) Frame
batching trolley, d) Dyehouse container trolley, e) Box container trolley and f) Beam
transportation trolley
10. Sewing machines
Grey fabric received in processing department from weaving-loom shed. The length of the fabric
varies according to the loom. In processing, it is required to process this fabric on various
machines in continuous manner, in lots of bigger length from 1500 to 10000 meters or even
more as per the production plan. Sewing machines are employed to stitch the fabric pieces of
varying length to make a continuous length or a lot.

Depending on the type of sewing machine, the joining of the fabric by stitching may be of two
types:
 Overlap type
 Butt end (End-to-end) type
In overlap type seams, the ends of both the fabric are passed together through sewing machine
resulting in the fabric thickness 2 to 3 times that of single fabric (figure 28 a). This may creates
problems in shearing, calendaring machine. In end-to-end type, stitching is done in such a way
that there is no overlapping of fabric and at seam area, the fabric thickness is equal to one single
fabric (figure 28b), and does not cause any problem in above machines.

Figure 28: Seam types a) Overlap type and b) Butt end type

Classification of sewing machine is illustrated in figure 29. Sewing machines are mainly of two
categories: Independent i.e. portable which can be moved to any place required and fixed i.e.
stationary type which is fixed at some particular processing machine and sewing is carried out at
that machine only. In both type sewing head can be portable or stationary. In case of portable
sewing head, fabric ends are fixed on sewing machine and sewing head travels across the width
of the fabric to join the ends. Where as in stationary sewing head type, sewing head is fixed and
fabric passes through the head. Whether fixed or stationary sewing head, two types of sewing
machines are available which gives either overlapping type seam or end-to-end type seam.
Revo make portable sewing machine with stationary head is shown in figure 30 where as figure
31 illustrate sewing machine with moving sewing head (Merrow make).
 Overlapping
type
Stationary
Sewing Head
Butt End
type
Independant
(Portable)
Overlapping
type
Moving
Sewing Head
Butt End
type
Sewing
Machine
Overlapping
type
Stationary
Sewing Head
Butt End
type
Fixed
(Stationary)
Overlapping
type
Moving
Sewing Head
Butt End
type

Figure 29: Classification of sewing machine

Figure 30: Revo make sewing machine Figure 31: Merrow make sewing machine