Straight knife mechine

Requirements of fabric cutting :
 Precision of cut : must be cut precisely to the size and shape of the
pattern; It depends on-
 The method of cutting adapted
 The marker planning
 Marker making/duplicating
 Condition of the cutting machine
 Skill ness and attentiveness of the operator
 Clean edges: Fabric edges should be smooth and clean, the raw edges of
the fabric should not show fraying or snagging.
Manual cutting method
Advantages:
• Suitable for small production.
• Easy to operate.
• Used for tailoring & domestic purposes.
• Used in garments manufacturing.
• Suitable for making sample garments.
Disadvantages:
• Time consuming method.
• High labor cost per garment.
• Fabric wastage is very high.
• Limitation to use in garments industry.
Straight Knife Cutting Machine
Features:
 Cutting knife is straight in shape.

Blade length= 10’’-13”
Blade width= (1 ½ -3) cm.
Blade thickness= ½ mm.
 Knife is driven by electric power.
 Grinding wheel is present to sharp the knife during cutting.
 The machine consists of base plate, electric motor, handle, knife,
knife guard, stand, roller wheel.
 Handle for the cutter to direct the blade.
 Most commonly (99%) used in the RMG industry of Bangladesh.
Straight Knife Cutting Machine
Continued….
Components of a straight knife machine are-

• An electric motor: to run the machine.
• Base plate: usually in rollers for easy movement.
• Handle: to direct the blade.
• Knife: moves by reciprocating motion.
• Knife guard: for safety.
• Grinding wheel: to sharp the knife during cutting
• Stand: to hold the whole machine.
• Roller wheel: to move the machine over cutting
table easily.
Spreading
Spreading:
Spreading is a process by which plies of fabric is spreaded in

order to get required length and width as per marker
dimension.
In other words, spreading is the process of stacking of layers

of fabric to allow simultaneous cutting. The marker is laid on
the top most of the layer.
Methods of fabric spreading
Mainly two types:-
Manual method :- not fulfill the basic requirements.
Fabric is laid completely by hand :-

• Widely used in Bangladesh.
• Cheap & simple method.
• A roll of table is taken and its edge is fixed on one end of the table and then spreaded on the table without
any device, completely by hand.
• A large numbers of workers are required.
With the help of mechanical assistance as hook :-

• Roll of fabric supported on a frame & carried along the table by hook where the end is secured by a clamp.
• The workers work back from the end aligning the edges & ensuring that there is no tension and wrinkles.
• Ply is normally cut by scissors or powered circular knife.
With the help of manually operated spreading track :-

• The spreading machine carries a piece of fabric roll from end to end of the spread, dispensing one ply at a
time.
• It is consists of a frame or carriage, wheels travelling guide rails at the edge of the table, a fabric support and
guide rollers to help correct unrolling of the fabric.
• Operators clamp the free end of fabric in the line with the end of spread. Pushes to the other end of spread,
cuts off the ply in the line.
Continued….
Mechanical method :-
Semi automatic :-
• There is a motor to drive the carriage platform on which operator
rides.
• A ply cutting device with a automatic catcher to hold the end of the
ply in place.
• Machine is driven on roll by a motor & fabric is spreaded on the table.
• An alignment shifter & photo-electric edge guides are available.
Automatic :-
• The automatic spreading machine is an improved version of semi-
automatic machine.
• Spreading is done by robot.
Interlining
Layer of fabric inserted between the face and
the back of a garment.
Cause of using interlining:

• To support, reinforce and control areas of
garments and to retain actual shape of the
garment component.
• To make the particular component beautiful,
strong and attractive.
• To get better hand feel and better
performance.
Sewn Interlining
Advantages of sewn interlining:
1. Flame retardant garments can be made in this process.
2. Simple and easy technique.
3. No need of using special machine
Disadvantages of sewn interlining:

1. Quality is poor and appearance is not same to all the
garments as it made by sewing.
2. Not suitable for large scale production.
3. Not readily available in the market.
4. It requires comparatively more time.
5. It is a highly labor intensive process.
Required properties of Fusible Interlining
• Temperature must not be too high that may damage the outer
fabric or its color.
• Temperature must not be too low that may lead weak bonding
between base fabric and outer fabric.
• Bonding strength should suitably resist washing or dry
cleaning.
• Adjustment of temp, time pressure and type of resin should be
such that strike through or strike back must not be happened.
• It must provide desired hand feel.
• should not be hazardous for health.
• color should be white in common cases and it should be
transparent.
• should have low dye retention properties.

Straight knife mechine

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Requirements of fabric cutting :

 Cutting knife is straight in shape.

Components of a straight knife machine are-

Spreading is a process by which plies of fabric is spreaded in

In other words, spreading is the process of stacking of layers

Manual method :- not fulfill the basic requirements.

Fabric is laid completely by hand :-

With the help of mechanical assistance as hook :-

With the help of manually operated spreading track :-

Cause of using interlining:

Disadvantages of sewn interlining:

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