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TLE
Dressmaking
Quarter 1 – Module 5:
Preparing and Cutting Materials
for Ladies’ Skirts
(Week 5)
 What I Need to Know

This module is designed and written with you in mind. It is here to help you master
the knowledge and skills in preparing and cutting materials for ladies’ skirts. The
scope of this module permits it to be used in many different learning situations. The
language used recognizes the diverse vocabulary level of learners. The lessons are
arranged to follow the standard sequence of the course. But the order in which you
read them can be changed to correspond with the textbook you are now using.

This module focuses on Preparing and Cutting Materials for Ladies Skirts.

After going through this module, you are expected to:

1. prepare the materials before cutting; and
2. cut the materials accurately.

What I Know

Please do not forget to write the following on your answer sheet:

Name: ________________________________ Yr. & Section: ____________________
Yr. Level & Subject:(Specialization): _______ Module No: _______
Name of Activity: What I Know Date: _______

Directions: Read each of the following questions carefully and choose the letter of
the correct answer.

1. Why do we need to press the cloth before using it?

A. to smoothen it and make it easier for plotting
B. To remove wrinkles
C. for the fabric to soak
D. both A and B
2. Is there a need to prepare the fabric before constructing the garment?
A. Yes, there's a need.
B. No
C. Yes, for easier construction
D. No, it’s okay not to soak or press the garment before construction.
3. Which is NOT part of the things that need to be done before cutting the fabric?
A. Wash/Dry Clean Before You Cut Your Fabric. Washing your fabric before you
cut ensures that shrinkage will happen before you cut out your garment or
sewing project.
B. Press Your Fabric After Washing. You should never cut wrinkled fabric. ...
C. Make Sure Your Fabric Is on Grain.
D. None of the above

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4. What do you call this process when the patterns are laid out on the fabric to
determine if the cloth is enough for all the pattern pieces?
A. pattern design C. pattern drafting
B. pattern lay-out D. pattern making
5. What material do we usually use when marking necessary allowance on all parts
of the garment?
A. tracing wheel C. marking pen
B. tailors chalk D. both B and C
6. After the allowances have been put represented by the broken lines, what's the
next step to do?
A. put another allowance
B. put markings on the pattern itself
C. Cut along the markings of the allowance
D. All of the above
7. The fabric is folded lengthwise at the center selvages. Which kind of fabric fold
does this belong to?
A. Lengthwise centerfold C. off-center lengthwise
B. Crosswise Centerfold D. Off-center crosswise fold
8. When the fabric is folded lengthwise with the raw edges meeting at the center,
what do you call this kind of fabric fold?
A. Lengthwise centerfold C. off-center lengthwise
B. Crosswise Centerfold D. Off-center crosswise fold
9. Below are some pointers in laying out patterns, which one is NOT part?
A. Make a temporary pattern layout, especially if the fabric is too small.
B. Determine the right side of the fabric.
C. Fold the fabric with the right side in and the wrong side out on a lengthwise
centerfold.
D. Always make your layout on the right side of the fabric. Pattern markings
should not be seen on the wrong side
10. Which is the correct statement about laying out patterns?
A. Lay out small pattern pieces first. Fit the big pattern pieces in between the
large pieces. Fit the pieces close together to avoid wastage.
B. Check that the art and line of the pattern correspond to those of the fabric.
C. Pin the patterns in place. Pins should be placed outward perpendicular to the
seam line and along with the seam allowance space.
D. None of the above

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 What’s In

With the knowledge and skills, you learned in pattern drafting, you were able to draft
and cut the pattern of your skirt correctly. You will be ready for the next challenge.
After drafting the skirt pattern, you will have to do the pattern layout, marking,
tracing, and cutting. What do you think are the preparations that we need to do with
the fabrics? How do we achieve a good fit in our finished product? There are
principles and techniques that we need to follow.

Some of the criteria in judging a finished product are: The garment fits perfectly,
holds its shape, and hangs well. This is why there is a need to prepare the fabric first
before construction to have perfect output.

What is It

3 Things You Need to Do Before You Cut Your Fabric

1. Wash/Dry Clean Before You Cut Your Fabric. Washing your fabric
before you cut ensures that shrinkage will happen before you cut out your
garment or sewing project.
2. Press Your Fabric After Washing. You should never cut wrinkled fabric.
3. Make Sure Your Fabric Is on Grain.

To ensure that shrinkage will happen before you cut out your garment, you need to
fold the cloth neatly and soak it in a basin of water overnight. Then hang the cloth
and let it dry. If the cloth is not smooth when it dries, pressing is necessary. If the
cloth gets out of shape, straighten it by stretching it diagonally. Stretch and pull

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gently but firmly until the edge and selvages are even when the material is folded in
half lengthwise.

Principles of Laying Out Pattern Pieces on the Fabric

Patterns are laid out on the fabric to determine if the cloth is enough for all the
pattern pieces. The process is known as pattern layout. In this method, lay out all
pattern pieces in various positions on the fabric by trial and error until they all fit on
the cloth. When all pattern pieces have been laid out, pin them securely on the fabric.
Depending on the fabric’s width, be sure to fold the fabric on grain. Be sure to put
in and mark the necessary allowances on all parts of the garment. Mark the
allowances with tailor’s chalk or with colored pencil. These allowances are
represented by broken lines in the illustrations. Cut along markings of the
allowances. The amount of fabric needed will depend on the width of the fabric and
the length and style of the skirt.

Determining the Right and the Wrong Side of the Fabric

Before making a layout, determine the right side and the wrong side of the fabric.
Fabric with printed designs is easy to identify but difficult for fabrics with plain colors
because they are reversible. Tips to help you determine the right and the wrong side
of the fabric:
1. The selvage or the finished edge of the fabric is smoother on the right side.
2. Loose thread ends can be found on the wrong side of the fabric.
3. Fabrics are folded right side in.
4. Prints are clearer and brighter on the right side.

Four Kinds of Fabric Folds

Deciding what kind of fold to use is based on the width of the fabric and the design
of the garment.

1. Lengthwise centerfold- The fabric is folded lengthwise at the center with

selvages together.

2. Crosswise centerfold- The fabric is folded crosswise at the center with the
raw edges together.

3. Off-center lengthwise fold- The fabric is folded lengthwise with the raw edges
meeting at the center.

4. Off-center crosswise fold- The fabric is folded crosswise with the raw edges
meeting at the center.

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 Let the students perform on how to fold the fabric correctly. Check whether
the fabric is in right position. Supervise them while performing the activity.

Pattern Layout

Pointers in Laying out Patterns

1. Make a temporary pattern layout, especially if the fabric is too small.
2. Determine the right side of the fabric.
3. Fold the fabric with the right side in and the wrong side out on a lengthwise
centerfold.
4. Always make your layout on the wrong side of the fabric. Pattern markings
should not be seen on the right side
5. Lay out big pattern pieces first. Fit the small pattern pieces in between the
large pieces. Fit the pieces close together to avoid wastage.
6. Check that the design and grainline of the pattern corresponds to those of the
fabric.
7. Pin the patterns in place. Pins should be placed outward perpendicular to the
seam line and along with the seam allowance space.

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How to Layout Pattern Pieces of the Basic Straight Skirt Pattern on the Fabric

How to Layout Pattern Pieces of a Basic A-Line Skirt on the Fabric

How to Layout the Pattern of an A-Line Skirt

On a 45-inch width fabric On a 60-inch width Fabric

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How to Layout the Pattern of the Four Darted Skirt with Waistline
Facing and Overlap Slit on the Fabric

1. Fold the fabric with two inches (5cm.) jutting out of the underlying fabric.
Layout and pin the patterns on the front and back skirts. The center front of
the front skirt pattern is joined on the fold of the fabric. The center back of the
back skirt is pinned 1 inch (2.5cm.) away from the edge of the upper fabric.
The 1 inch (2.5cm.) Allowance is in the fold of the overlap slit.

2. Mark the needed sewing allowances. Mark the desired length of the
overlap 6 to 8 inches long (15.5 to 20.5cm.).
3. Cut along the sewing allowances.
4. For the overlap slit, cut the excess fabric as shown in the illustration
above, and just leave the allowances needed for the overlap slit.
5. Mark the sewing lines.

How to Layout Pattern of a Gathered Skirt on the Fabric

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How to Layout Pattern of an All-around Pleated Skirt with Hip Yoke

On a 45- or 60-inch width fabric, with a straight or A-line silhouette.

Refold fabric so that the front yoke may be laid out on the fold of the fabric

Let the students perform how to layout properly the fabric. Check whether the
fabric is in right position. Supervise them while performing the activity.

Cutting the Fabric

After the pattern pieces have been laid out on the fabric, the next step is to cut the
fabric. Be very careful in cutting this. If you cut carelessly, time, effort, and money
will be wasted.

A good rule to remember is, always cut along the pattern so that your free hand rests
on the pattern. For the right-handed person, cut to the right of the cutting line. The
fingers of the left hand rest lightly on the pattern along the cutting line. Reverse this
if you are left-handed.

Pointers in Cutting the Fabric

1. Place the fabric and pattern flat on the table. Avoid moving or lifting the fabric
while cutting.
2. Walk around the table as you cut instead of pulling the fabric toward you
because the fabric may slip or stretch out of shape.
3. Use sharp shears for cutting, making long strokes along straight edges and
short, even strokes along curved edges. Cut the edge straight since it serves
as your guide in sewing.
4. Cut the fabric starting from the widest to the narrowest part of the pattern.
Begin cutting at an edge that is easy to reach.

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 5. Cut with smooth, even strokes.
6. Keep the cutting edge of the top blade of the shears directly above the lower
blade. Do not let the blades slant toward the table.
7. Cut similar patterns at the same time by cutting them out from two layers of
fabric.
8. Close the points of the shears right up to the notch. Close the points at the
exact stopping place. Cut outward from the pattern to the exact tip of the
notch. Cut inward to complete the notch at the cutting line.
9. When cutting curves, make your strokes shorter. Keep the free hand close to
the cutting line to have a smooth curved line.
10. Set aside cut fabric pieces to avoid cutting them accidentally as you work on
other parts of the fabric.
11. After cutting, do not remove the pins and patterns because you will need them
in marking your fabric.
12. Collect and tie all scraps of cloth together for future use. You may be able to
use these for your recycling projects.

If you are right-handed, place

your left hand on the pattern
and fabric and hold them in place,
and cut cleanly with the scissor Alternatively, these can be marks
blades at a right angle to the fabric. with tailor’s tacks.

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Cut the mirror image of the notches A small clip or snip into the fabric
out into the fabric, rather than cutting is a useful way to mark some of
Out each notch separately, cut straight the lines that appear on a pattern.
across from one point to point.

Let the students perform on how to cut the fabric properly. Check whether
the fabric is in right position. Supervise them while performing the activity.

Transferring of Marks Onto the Fabric

After cutting the garment pieces, you are ready to transfer your pattern marks to the
fabric. Use tailor’s chalk or dressmaker’s carbon paper aided by a tracing wheel.
Whichever tool you decide to use, make sure that you transfer all important pattern
marks clearly and accurately. The following are the general details to be marked:
1. Seam lines along curves and corners
2. Position of pockets
3. Stitch lines
4. Centerlines for the front and back opening, facings, and interfacings
5. Darts
6. Location of buttons and buttonholes
7. Points where stitching lines should stop
8. Fold lines
9. Any other special markings used to construct the garment

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Guidelines in Transferring Marks Onto the Fabric

1. Details should be marked on the wrong side of the fabric where most
construction lines are needed.
2. If you use a tracing wheel and dressmaker’s carbon paper, mount these on a
piece of heavy cardboard to protect table surfaces.
3. Use white tracing paper whenever possible because it is safe and easy to
remove.
4. Use a ruler to make straight lines with the tracing wheel. Run the tracing
wheel along the edge of the ruler with a firm and steady motion to avoid double
lines, which can be confusing.
5. When marking curves, slant the tracing wheel slightly inward toward the
center of the curve.
6. Avoid retracing or going over the line twice.
7. There are various methods of transferring pattern marking. Tailor tacks are
good for circles and dots or mark these with water or air-soluble pen (when
using a pen, test it on a piece of scrap fabric first). For lines, you can use trace
basting or a tracing wheel with a dressmaker’s carbon paper.

Methods of Transferring Pattern Marking

1. By Using Tailor’s Tacks

Often, dots are of different sizes so it is a good

idea to choose different colors of thread for
each dot size. It is easier to match the colors as
well as dots. Use double thread in your needle,
unknotted. Insert the needle through the dot
from right to left, leaving a tail of thread. Be
sure to go through the tissue and both layers of
fabric.

1. Now stitch through the dot again, this

time from top to bottom to make a loop.
Cut through the loop, then snip off
excess thread to leave a tail.

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Often, dots are of different sizes so it is a good
idea to choose different colors of thread for
each dot size. It is easier to match the colors as
well as dots. Use double thread in your needle,
unknotted. Insert the needle through the dot
from right to left, leaving a tail of thread. Be
sure to go through the tissue and both layers of
fabric.

2. Now stitch through the dot again, this time

from top to bottom to make a loop. Cut
through the loop, then snip off excess
thread to leave a tail.

3. Carefully pull the pattern tissue away. On

the top side, you will have four threads
marking each dot. When you turn the fabric
over. The dot positions will be marked with
an X.

4. Gently turn back the two layers of fabric to

separate them, then cut through the
threads so that thread tails are left with
both pieces of fabric.

2. By Using Tracing Paper and Wheel

1. This method is not suitable for all fabrics as

the marks may not be able to be removed
easily. Slide dressmaker’s carbon paper
against the wrong side of the fabric.
2. Run a tracing along the pattern lines (a
ruler will help you make straight lines)

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3. Remove the carbon paper and carefully pull
off the pattern tissue. You will have dotted
lines marked on your fabric.

3. By Using Markers

1. This method can only be used with a single

layer of fabric. Press the point of the pen at
the center of the dot marked on the pattern
piece.

2. Carefully remove the pattern. The pen

marks will have gone through the tissue on
the fabric. Be sure not to press the fabric
before the pen marks are removed or they
may become permanent.

1. This is a really useful technique to

mark center front lines, fold lines,
and placement lines. With double
thread in your needle, stitch a row
of loopy stitches, sewing along the
line marked on the pattern.

2. Carefully pull away from the

tissue. Cut through the loops,
then gently separate the layers of
fabric to show the threads. Snip
apart to leave thread tails in both
of the fabric layers.

Let the students perform how to transfer pattern markings properly onto
the fabric. Check whether the fabric is in right position. Supervise them
while performing the activity.

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 What’s More

Please do not forget to write the following on your answer sheet:

Name: _______________________________ Gr. & Section: _______________
Gr. Level & Subject:(Specialization): _______ Module No: __________________
Name of Activity: What’s More Date: ________________________

Directions: Read the following statements below. Identify the word or group of words
being described in each statement.

_______1. This has to be prepared by soaking, drying, stretching, and pressing before
cutting.
_______2. It is done on the fabric in order to remove wrinkles.
_______3. The process of arranging pattern pieces on the fabric.
_______4. These are represented by broken lines in the illustrations necessary on all
parts of the garment.
_______5. The finished edge of the fabric is smoother on the right side that
prevents the yarn of the fabric from raveling.
_______6. This is the side of the cloth where pattern pieces are laid out.
_______7. The fabric is folded lengthwise at the center with selvages together.
_______8. These sewing tools are used to secure pattern pieces on the fabric.
_______9. This is a good method of transferring pattern markings for circles and dots.
_______10.These strokes are used when cutting curves.

What I Have Learned

Please do not forget to write the following on your answer sheet:

Name: _______________________________ Gr. & Section: _______________
Gr. Level & Subject:(Specialization): _______ Module No: __________________
Name of Activity: What I Have Learned Date: ________________________

Instructions: Read carefully and examine your output if you have already done the
preparation, laying out of the pattern, and cutting of fabric.

Before cutting the materials for ladies' skirts, there are fabric preparations to follow
to achieve a good fit in the finished garment. These are washing or shrinking, drying,
stretching, and pressing.

There are principles to follow in laying out the pattern pieces on the cloth. We must
determine the right side and the wrong side of the fabrics. There are four different
fabrics fold to do based on the width of the fabrics such as lengthwise centerfold,
crosswise centerfold, off-center lengthwise fold, and off-center crosswise fold.

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 In laying out the pattern pieces, the fabric should be on the grain. Several techniques
in pattern layout are applied depending on the styles of skirts and the amount of
cloth available. All important marks or details should be transferred to the fabric
clearly and accurately before cutting the fabric.

In cutting the fabric, a good rule to remember is always to cut along the pattern.
Walking around the table as we cut, using sharp shears to achieve smooth lines in
cutting. Long strokes are used to cut straight lines while short strokes are used for
curved lines.

What I Can Do

Please do not forget to write the following detail along with your outputs.
Name: _______________________________ Gr. & Section: ____________________
Gr. Level & Subject:(Specialization): _______ Module No: _______
Name of Activity: What I Can Do Date: _______

Instructions: Follow the directions on each task given below.

I. Secure 4 pieces of pattern paper (whole size). Try to fold each paper
according to the kinds of fabric folds:
1. Lengthwise centerfold 3. Off-center lengthwise fold
2. Crosswise centerfold 4. Off-center crosswise fold

II. Using your basic straight skirt pattern, lay out the pattern pieces on the
fabric correctly and economically. Be sure to follow the correct procedure.
The fabric should be in the right position. (Length of cloth = 1 meter, width
= 60 inches)

Rubrics in Evaluating the Performance of the Student

Dimension PERFORMANCE LEVEL

Needs No
Excellent Very Satisfactory Satisfactory Points
Improvement Attempt
(4 pts.) (3 pts.) (2 pts.) Earned
(1 pt.) (0 pt.)
1. Use of Always uses tools Uses tools and Uses tools and Uses tools and No
tools and and equipment equipment equipment equipment attempt
equipment correctly and correctly and correctly and incorrectly and
confidently confidently most but less less confidently
of the times confidently most of the time
sometimes
2. Application Manifests very Manifests clear Manifests Manifests less No
of clear understanding understanding understanding attempt
procedure understanding of of the step-by-

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 the step-by-step of the step-by- of the step-by- step procedure
procedure step procedure step procedure seeking
but sometimes clarification
seeks most of the time
clarification
Works Works Works Works No
independently independently independently independently attempt
with ease and with ease and with ease and but with
confidence always confidence most confidence assistance from
of the time sometimes others most of
the time
3. Safety work Always observes Observes safety Observes safety Most of the time No
habits safety precautions precautions precautions not observing attempt
most of the time sometimes safety
precautions
4. The task is The task is The task is The task is No
Completeness completed completed nearly started but not attempt
of a Task following the following the completed completed
procedures in the procedures in following the following the
activity the project plan procedures in procedures in
improvement/ the project plan the project plan
innovations
5. Time Work completed Work completed Work completed Work completed No
management ahead of time within the ___ (mins. ___ (mins. attempt
allotted time /Hours/days) /Hours/days)
beyond beyond
TOTAL POINTS

Assessment

Please do not forget to write the following on your answer sheet:

Name: _____________________________ Yr. & Section: ____________________
Yr. Level & Subject: (Specialization): _______ Module No: _______
Name of Activity: Assessment Date: _______

Directions: Read each of the following statements carefully and choose the letter of
the correct answer.
1. Why do we need to press the cloth before using it?
A. to smoothen it and make it easier for plotting
B. pressing is done to remove wrinkles
C. for the fabric to soak
D. both A and B
2. After the allowances have been put represented by the broken lines, what's the
next step to do?
A. put another allowance
B. put markings on the pattern itself
C. Cut along the markings of the allowance
D. All of the above

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3. Is there a need to prepare the fabric before constructing the garment?
A. Yes, there's a need
B. No
C. Yes, for easier construction
D. No, it’s okay not to soak or press the garment before construction.
4. The fabric is folded lengthwise at the center selvages. Which kind of fabric fold
does this belong to?
A. Lengthwise centerfold C. off-center lengthwise
B. Crosswise Centerfold D. Off-center crosswise fold
5. Which is not part of the things that need to be done before cutting the fabric?.
A. Wash/Dry Clean Before You Cut Your Fabric. Washing your fabric before you
cut ensures that shrinkage will happen before you cut out your garment or
sewing project.
B. Press Your Fabric After Washing. You should never cut wrinkled fabric. ...
C. Make Sure Your Fabric Is on Grain.
D. None of the above
6. When the fabric is folded lengthwise with the raw edges meeting at the center,
what do you call this kind of fabric fold?
A. Lengthwise centerfold C. off-center lengthwise
B. Crosswise Centerfold D. Off-center crosswise fold
7. What do you call this process when the patterns are laid out on the fabric to
determine if the cloth is enough for all the pattern pieces?
A. pattern design C. pattern drafting
B. pattern lay-out D. pattern making
8. Below are some pointers in laying out patterns, which one is NOT part?
A. Make a temporary pattern layout, especially if the fabric is too small.
B. Determine the right side of the fabric.
C. Fold the fabric with the right side in and the wrong side out on a lengthwise
centerfold.
D. Always make your layout on the right side of the fabric. Pattern markings
should not be seen on the wrong side
5. What material do we usually use when marking necessary allowance on all parts
of the garment?
A. tracing wheel C. marking pen
B. tailors chalk D. both B and C
10. Which is the correct statement about laying out patterns?
A. Lay out small pattern pieces first. Fit the big pattern pieces in between the
large pieces. Fit the pieces close together to avoid wastage.
B. Check that the art and line of the pattern correspond to those of the fabric.
C. Pin the patterns in place. Pins should be placed outward perpendicular to the
seam line and along with the seam allowance space.
D. None of the above
11. Why do we need to cut fabric extra carefully?
A. If you cut carelessly time will be wasted.
B. if you mistakenly cut the fabric it's a waste of money.
C. because your effort matters.
D. all of the above

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12. What is/are the best way/s in cutting the fabric?
A. Place the fabric and pattern flat on the ground. You may move and lift the
fabric while cutting.
B. Walk around the table as you cut instead of pulling the fabric toward you
because the fabric may slip or stretch out of shape.
C. Use sharp or could be dull shears for cutting, making long strokes along
straight edges and short, even strokes along curved edges.
D. Begin cutting at an edge that is difficult to reach
13. What are/is the best way/s in cutting the fabric?
A. Cut with smooth, even strokes.
B. Keep the cutting edge of the top blade of the shears directly above the lower
blade. Do not let the blades slant toward the table.
C. Cut similar patterns at the same time by cutting them out from two layers of
fabric.
D. all of the above.
14. The following are the general details to be marked, EXCEPT _______.
A. Seam lines along curves and corners
B. Position of pockets
C. operational lines
D. darts
15. Which way is acceptable when are you going to transfer pattern marking?
A. using ballpen
B. using tracing wheel and carbon paper
C. using tailor’s chalk
D. both B and C

Answer Key

10. Short strokes

9. Tailor’s chalk
8. Pins
centerfold
7. Lengthwise
6. Wrong side
5. Selvages
4. Allowance
3. Pattern layout
2. Pressing
1. Fabric
WHAT’S MORE

References
LM-Dressmaking Grade 10 pp. 90-99
Online Sources:
https://katrinakaycreations.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/3-Things-To-Do-Before-
You-Cut-Your-Fabric-bp.jpg
https://tinyurl.com/y35fh5y2
https://tinyurl.com/y6ovrkhj
https://tinyurl.com/y2ysyt6d

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