2021 - Irene Roozen, Mariet Raedts & Laura Meijburg
2021 - Irene Roozen, Mariet Raedts & Laura Meijburg
2021 - Irene Roozen, Mariet Raedts & Laura Meijburg
To cite this article: Irene Roozen, Mariet Raedts & Laura Meijburg (2021) Do verbal and visual
nudges influence consumers’ choice for sustainable fashion?, Journal of Global Fashion Marketing,
12:4, 327-342, DOI: 10.1080/20932685.2021.1930096
1. Introduction
In the fashion industry collections come and go rapidly, especially in the fast fashion
industry (Preuit & Yan, 2017). In most cases, fast fashion apparels are manufactured in
a cheap way with remarkably high speed, due to short production and distribution lead
times. This results in low prices to be paid by the customers, who are able to update their
wardrobe conforming the latest trends at any time of the year (Cachon & Swinney, 2011).
The growing overconsumption of clothes is a worldwide development with serious
consequences for the environment (Niinimäki et al., 2020).
The fashion industry is responsible for 8 to 10% of the world’s greenhouse gasses and
20% of industrial wastewater pollution worldwide (United Nations Climate Change,
2018). Impacts from the fashion industry consist of a yearly production of 92 million
tons of waste and the consumption of 79 trillion liters of water. Moreover, cotton has the
CORRESPONDENCE TO Irene Roozen Faculty of Economics and Business, Warmoesberg 26, Faculty of Economics and
Business, Warmoesberg 26, KU Leuven, 1000 Brussels, Belgium irene.roozen@kuleuven.be
© 2021 Korean Scholars of Marketing Science
328 I. ROOZEN ET AL.
highest footprint of all fashion fibers (Niinimäki et al., 2020). For the growth of one
kilogram of cotton, between 7.000 and 20.000 liters of water are needed (Helvetas, 2007).
In order to mitigate these negative impacts of fabric production, a shift to organically
grown textiles and fibers should be made. These more organic textiles and fibers are part
of the concept of “sustainable” fashion.
The fashion industry has started to think about how to design and develop apparels
that have less harmful effects during their entire lifecycle (Aakko & Koskennurmi-
Sivonen, 2013). Research on sustainable fashion has mainly focused on people’s intention
to buy and use sustainable fashion (Min Kong & Ko, 2017; Song & Ko, 2017). For
example, research showed that consumers’ attitude towards sustainable clothing has
a significant impact on their purchase intentions (Rausch & Kopplin, 2020; Song & Ko,
2017). Other studies found that consumers’ perceived environmental knowledge (i.e.
their awareness of environmental issues and consequences of human actions on the
environment) significantly influences their attitudes towards sustainable products and
their intentions to purchase sustainable products (Kollmuss & Agyeman, 2002; Preuit &
Yan, 2017). Some studies analyzed the motivations and barriers to the popularization of
sustainable fashion (Ertekin & Atik, 2015; Lundblad & Davies, 2016; Moon et al., 2015).
Despite the increase in research within the sustainability field, customers’ actual purchase
behavior of sustainable apparels is still relatively low. For people creating sustainable
fashion marketing campaigns, it therefore remains a challenge to narrow the gap between
consumers’ attitudes towards sustainable fashion and their actual purchase behavior (Lee
et al., 2020). Consumers often express their interest in sustainability but continue to seek
out fast and inexpensive fashion (Jung & Jin, 2014). Moreover, many consumers agree
with environmentalism, seeking to protect and conserve the elements of the earth’s
ecosystem, but when they have to make a practical decision between an environment-
friendly product and a relatively cheaper and easier accessible product, their choice often
does not reflect their intention to be more sustainable (Joergens, 2006). Often the theory
of planned behavior (Ajzen, 1985) and/or the attitude – behavior gap (Wiederhold &
Martinez, 2018) are used as explanation. Especially in the “sustainable” fashion industry,
consumers experience an enormous field of tension. While trying to behave environ
mentally friendly and ethically, consumers not only want to pursue belonging and self-
esteem, they also seek social acceptance (Lundblad & Davies, 2016). Even though
consumers show an interest in environmentally friendly and/or ethical fashion products,
the relationship between attitude and purchase behavior is affected by several (personal)
circumstances or barriers, e.g. lack of information, lack of credibility of the information,
and lack of availability (Wiederhold & Martinez, 2018). Therefore, the following question
arises: which techniques can be used to overcome this gap?
In order to make consumers choose the more sustainable option when purchasing
apparels, the use of a nudge can play a role (Thaler & Sunstein, 2008). Research has
already shown that nudging can be a promising tool to promote pro-environmental and
sustainable consumption behavior (Lehner et al., 2016). However, to our knowledge, only
limited research exists on the effectiveness of the use of a nudge on choosing a sustainable
apparel option and, moreover, for the environmentally unfriendly fast fashion industry.
Therefore, the main objective of this study is to investigate if a nudge can significantly
influence consumers’ choices for relatively more “sustainable” (fast) fashion products.
Besides, we compared the impact of two different nudges by providing either verbal or
JOURNAL OF GLOBAL FASHION MARKETING 329
visual information on the environmentally friendly aspect of the fast fashion product
with a choice situation without a nudge (i.e. no information). Furthermore, we measured
the intention to buy the product and the willingness-to-pay for the apparel. Finally, we
analyzed if individual differences (i.e. ecological conscious consumer behavior, fashion
involvement, gender, age and consumers’ financial situation) can also significantly
influence their choice process.
2. Literature review
2.1. Fast fashion industry
The fast fashion industry is defined by two key characteristics. First, it consists of short
production runs and distribution lead times, enabling quick response techniques of less
than two weeks (Watson & Yan, 2013). Second, the fast fashion industry has a highly
fashionable product design because it carefully monitors consumer tastes for trends.
Style, taste, acceptance and change are the major elements of fast fashion apparels and
some fast fashion retailers, such as Zara, have raised the number of new collections to
more than twenty a year (Christopher et al., 2004; Drew & Yehounme, 2017).
The rapid growth of fast fashion goes along with many serious environmental com
plications (Claudio, 2007; Moon et al., 2015). The production of fashion products, for
example, consumes a large amount of natural and industrial resources. The production of
one cotton T-shirt needs, for instance, 2.700 liters of water, this is similar to what an
average person drinks in 2.5-year (Drew & Yehounme, 2017). Furthermore, the fashion
industry has a high energy use and, therefore, an excessive carbon footprint. In addition,
during the production process, over 15.000 different chemicals are used (Niinimäki et al.,
2020). Furthermore, at the end of their life cycle, fashion products cause pollution and
take up important landfill space. The majority of used clothes ends up in disposal where
they are not recycled in an efficient way and, therefore, create a lot of pollution and exert
toxic chemicals (Remy et al., 2016).
industries is generally higher than the welfare of those working in fast fashion industries.
Slow fashion products are mainly made from more durable materials, which make them
also more expensive. On the other hand, however, consumers can enjoy slow fashion
products for a longer period of time. Furthermore, slow fashion garments are often
classic and simple, which helps to prolong their lifespan and, thereby, to reduce the
amount of fashion waste (Preuit & Yan, 2017). Finally, sustainability is also high on the
agenda of fashion retailers and brands. For example, H&M, Mango and John Lewis have
launched multiple recycling initiatives to pave the way for a more sustainable fashion
industry: reuse of dropped off old clothes to create new products and sales of second-
hand clothes (Preuss, 2021).
to inform (potential) customers about the apparels and the consequences of their
acquisitions. Furthermore, a nudge can focus people’s choice on relatively more sustain
able options when purchasing apparels and, hence, helping them contributing to a more
sustainable fashion industry. For example, Aspers (2008) and Perez and Dos Santos
Lonsdale (2018) showed the importance of a labelling system in the fashion garment
industry, whereby the minimum standard of ethical and environmental conditions of the
fashion product were indicated on the label. A fMRI-study by Lee et al. (2020) found that
a “green” logo on a fashion product can significantly increase consumers’ preferences for
sustainable fashion products. Both prior exposures (in the form of a label or a logo) to an
environmental priming message can be classified as a nudge communication technique.
change the settings of all printers on double-sided printing by default. By doing this, they
saved seven million pages in one semester, which is equivalent to 620 trees (Croson &
Treich, 2014). Dianoux et al. (2019) present an overview of the different typologies of
nudges. They showed that in external business communication nudges can be very
effective. Furthermore, research shows that nudges are quick, low-cost and easy to
implement stimuli to convince individuals to adopt the desired behavior (Dianoux
et al., 2019). Although there is potential for more nudging interventions, experiments
for choosing sustainable fashion options have remained unexplored by researchers.
Therefore, two main research questions can be formulated:
RQ1: Can nudging significantly influence consumers’ choice for a more sustainable
clothing item?
RQ2: Do sociodemographic (age, gender and financial situation) and fashion related
characteristics of the participants (e.g. ecological conscious consumer behavior, fashion
involvement) significantly influence consumers’ sustainable fashion choice process?
3. Research design
In order to be able to test the two research questions, a quantitative research was
conducted. A survey was designed using Qualtrics.com. Data was collected with
Prolific. We implemented the nudge in a simulation of the Hennes & Mauritz AB
(H&M) website. H&M is one of the leading fast fashion companies in terms of global
revenues, the company operates in more than 74 countries and has over 126.000 employ
ees (https://hmgroup.com/brands/hm.html). Therefore, H&M can be considered as
a strong prototype of a global fast fashion company (Del Rocío Bonilla et al., 2019).
The brand is also becoming more and more committed to creating great fashion at the
best price in a sustainable way. One of the steps towards more sustainable fashion was the
launch of their Conscious collection, a line made from fabrics such as organic cotton,
organic linen, tencel and recycled polyester (Diderich, 2011; H&M, n.d.). Therefore,
choosing their website in our experimental setting was a well-considered choice.
In the first part of the questionnaire, participants were randomly allocated to one of
the three conditions: a verbal nudge, a visual nudge or the control setting (no nudge). On
the next page of the questionnaire, participants had to choose between two black T-shirts
(one of the most popular apparels worldwide). This gender-neutral product increased the
likelihood that participants would be able to associate with the situation and answer the
questions. Both T-shirts looked the same and had the same descriptions (available sizes,
number of reviews and available colors). The only difference between both pieces of
clothing was their fabric. One T-shirt was made from regular cotton. The other one was
an ecological fashion product – a sustainable fashion T-shirt – from the Conscious
collection. In each of the three experimental conditions, the two T-shirts were shown
randomly next to each other. Figure 1 presents the control condition.
In the verbal nudge condition, extra information in text form was provided and
presented in a way that fits human information processing capabilities and decision-
making processes (Lehner et al., 2016). In line with the Conscious collection of H&M the
JOURNAL OF GLOBAL FASHION MARKETING 333
Figure 1. Information about the Conscious T-shirt (L) and the non-sustainable version of the T-shirt (R)
in the control condition.
Figure 2. Verbal nudge condition with the Conscious T-shirt on the left and the non-sustainable
version of the T-shirt on the right.
“Conscious Cotton T-shirt” we added additional information about the T-shirt’s sustain
able fabrics. In Figure 2 the verbal nudge is presented.
For the visual nudge condition, we added a website page with a visual emphasis on the
Conscious collection of H&M (see Figure 3). Participants were kindly asked to click
through to the next page after having looked at the web page. On the next page of the
questionnaire, they were asked to select one of the two versions of the T-shirt (see Figure 1).
After choosing one of the T-shirts, we asked the participants on a 7-point scale about
their intentions to buy the chosen product (“very unlikely”, . . ., “very likely” based on
Roozen & Raedts, 2020) and their willingness to pay (WTP) for the two T-shirts (“I really
do not want to buy it”, “less than € 2,99”, “between € 3 and € 4,99”, “between € 5 and € 9,99”,
“between € 10 and € 14,99”, “between 15 and € 29,99”, “between € 30 and 49,99” and more
than € 49,99”). Next, we measured ecologically conscious consumer behavior (SECB) when
purchasing apparels, based on Sudbury-Riley’s Likertscale (Sudbury-Riley & Kohlbacher,
2016) with 4 7 point items (“when I purchase apparels, I always make a conscious effort to
buy textiles that are low in pollutants”, “if I understand the potential damage to the
environment that some products can cause, I do not purchase them”, “I normally make
a conscious effort to limit my purchases of apparels that are made of or use scarce resources”
and “I switch brands for ecological reasons”). Furthermore, we measured participants’
fashion involvement: their perceived personal relevance or interest in fashion. Tigert
et al. (1976) has shown that consumers with a relatively high score on fashion involvement
buy significantly more items of clothing and spend more per item than consumers with
a relatively low score on fashion involvement. Fashion involvement was measured on
a 5-items 7 point Likert scale (i.e. “I try to keep my wardrobe up-to-date with fashion trends”,
“I like to shop for clothes”, “I like fashion”, “I often buy T-shirts” and “I often buy clothes in
general”) and based on Tigert et al. (1976). Finally, gender, age, and the financial situation
(“how would you describe your financial situation?” 1 “poor”, . . ., 10 “very good”) of the
participants were measured (Roozen & Raedts, 2020).
4. Results
4.1. Sample description and measurements
We ran this study among male and female respondents from different age groups. The
respondents were randomly exposed to one of the three experimental conditions. In total,
288 responses were used for the data analysis. The fist condition, i.e. the verbal nudge
condition, had 96 respondents, the visual nudge condition had 94 respondents and the
third condition, the control group, had 98 respondents. 49.1% of the respondents were
female. No significant differences between the experimental conditions were found
(X 2 ½2� ¼ 2:509; p = .285). The age of the participants ranged from 18 to 67 years
(M = 29.28, SD = 9.71). The average score for their financial situation was 5.43 on 10
(SD = 2.02). No significant differences were found for age (F[2.279] = 1.490.; p = .227)
and financial situation scores (F[2.272] = .082.; p = .921) between the different experi
mental conditions. Most of the participants were inhabitants from a western country. In
total 88.02% of the participants were from Europe, 2.10% from Canada, 3.59% from the
US, 2.40% from South Africa, and 1.49% from South America, and about 2% from other
countries. Geographical locations can have a significant impact on the awareness, knowl
edge, and behaviors of consumers (Min Kong & Ko, 2017). However, almost all of our
participants are from western countries and the manipulation material used in our
experiment is common for the western market. Based on the results of the reliability
analyzes average scores for the constructs ecologically conscious consumer behavior
(SECB) (Cronbach’s α = .902, M = 4.25, SD = 1.50), and fashion involvement
(Cronbach’s α = .862, M = 3.71, SD = 1.33) were calculated.
JOURNAL OF GLOBAL FASHION MARKETING 335
1
PREG T Shirt ðXi ; ωÞ ¼1 PEF ðXi ; ωÞ ¼ (2)
1 þ expðXtt βÞ
in which ω is a vector of the estimated coefficients β, and Xi are the regressor variables in
the model. In Table 2 the estimated coefficients, standard errors, log-odds (exp (B)), and
fit values of the model are presented.
Table 2 shows the significant positive influence of the verbal nudge on the sustainable
choice process (p < .001). In binary logistic regression the log-odds (see Table 2) can be
interpreted as odds ratios, for every unit increase in the answer, the probability becomes exp
Table 1. Effect of both type of nudges on consumers’ choice for sustainable fashion.
Verbal nudge (n = 98) Visual nudge (n = 94) No nudge (n = 97)
Choice T-shirt Regular 27.1% 44.7% 55.1%
Sustainable (Conscious) 72.9% 55.3% 44.9%
Table 2. Effects of explanatory variables on choosing the sustainable version of the T-shirt1).
Variables (Xi) Estimated Coefficients β (SD) Log odds (Exp (B))
Verbal nudge 1.396 (.338)*** 4.040
Visual nudge .581 (.318)* 1.788
Average Ecological Social behavior .361(.097)*** 1.434
Average Fashion Involvement -.211 (.105) ** .809
Gender -.577 (.282) .562
Age -.014 (.014) .986
Financial Situation -.055 (.069) .947
Constant -.071 (.799) .931
Log likelihood (estimated model) 329.620
Omnibus Tests of Model Coefficients X2[7] = 43.808 (p < .001)
R2 Nagelkerke .199
Hosmer & Lemeshow Goodness of Fit X2 [8] = 9.071 (p = .336)
U2 (% predicted correctly) 67.8%
***Significant (p < .01), **Significant (p < .05), *Significant (p < .10).
1)
According to McFadden (1984) and Hensher et al. (2005) the sample size allowed us to use binary logistic regression
analyses (minimum requirement of 50 choosing each alternative).
336 I. ROOZEN ET AL.
(B) higher. For example, the probability that a consumer chooses the sustainable T-shirt
after being confronted with the verbal nudge is 4.040 times higher compared to the no-
nudge (control) condition. Furthermore, the visual nudge also shows, to a lesser extent,
a significant positive influence on the sustainable choice process (p < .100). For the visual
nudge, the probability for choosing the sustainable version of the T-shirt increases with
1.788 times, compared to the control condition with no nudge. Furthermore, participants
with a relatively high score on ecological conscious consumer behavior and a low score on
fashion involvement have a significant higher change to choose the sustainable apparel.
Subsequently, the results indicate that socio-demographic variables do not significant
influence the choice process (p > .05). The different goodness of fit values are satisfying
and indicate that the model is significantly better than to the null model. Finally, Table 3
shows how many cases were correctly predicted in the full binomial logit model, using
a cut-value of .500. The overall percentage of cases that were correctly predicted is 67.8%
(74.8% for the sustainable choice and 58.5% for the regular choice).
The average score for purchase intention is 4.82 (SD = 1.62) on a 7-point scale,
suggesting that our participants’ intention to buy the T-shirt of their choice was relatively
high. The purchase intention did not significantly differ between both nudging condi
tions (F[2,287] = .021; p = .979) or between the two options regular of conscious version
of the T-shirt: t[286] = 1.730; p = 0.085. We also found no significant differences for
purchase intention for both T-shirt versions within the different nudge conditions (t no-
nudge [96] = .587, p = .559; t verbal -nudge [94] = 1.038, p = .302; t visual-nudge [92] = 1.494,
p = .139). Hence, these findings suggest that the nudge only influenced our participants’
choice behavior, but not their intentions to buy the T-shirt.
However, we found significant differences between participants’ willingness to pay
scores for the different nudge conditions and within the different choice options. Table 4
Table 4. Willingness to pay scores (WTP) for the T-shirt given the nudge condition and the consumers’
choice.
WTP_R1) WTP_C2)
Choice Visual Verbal Average Visual Verbal Average
T-shirt: No-nudge nudge nudge WTP No-nudge nudge nudge WTP_
Regular 4.13 (.953) 4.38 (1.10) 4.62 4.32 3.93 4.02 4.42 4.07
(N = 54) (N = 42) (1.06) (1.04) (1.18) (1.14) (.809) (1.10)
(N = 26) (N = 122) (N = 54) (N = 42) (N = 26) (N = 122)
Conscious 4.11 (1.15) 3.87 (1.01) 4.24 4.09 4.41 4.48 4.70 4.55
cotton (N = 44) (N = 52) (1.16) (1.12) (1.06) (.874) (1.15) (1.05)
(N = 70) (N = 166) (N = 44) (N = 52) (N = 70) (N = 166)
1)
Willingness to pay scores for the regular T-shirt; 2)Willingness to pay scores for the Conscious T-shirt.
JOURNAL OF GLOBAL FASHION MARKETING 337
presents the average scores for the WTP for the two different T-shirts (both variables
were measured after the choice process).
The results of Table 4 show that – in general – the average scores of the WTP is higher
for the chosen option than for the non-chosen option, and also higher for the conscious
cotton T-shirt than for the regular T-shirt. A paired samples t-test showed that the
participants who chose the regular T-shirt have an average score for WTP for the regular
T-shirt of 4.32 which is significantly higher than the WTP score for the conscious cotton
T-shirt (4.07): t[121] = 3.308, p = .001. Also, the participants who chose the conscious
cotton T-shirt have a significant higher WTP for their chosen option (4.55) compared to
their non-chosen option (4.09): t[165] = 6.971, p < .001. An independent samples t-test
showed that the average WTP for the conscious cotton T-shirt (4.55) is at a 10%
reliability level significantly higher than for the regular T-shirt option (4.32):
t [286] = 1.884, p = 0.061 (see Table 4). Furthermore, the average WTP scores for the
conscious cotton T-shirt are significant higher in the verbal nudge condition compared
to the no nudge condition (F[2, 285] = 5.117; p = .007). This suggests that the nudge
could not only significantly influence the choice behavior towards a sustainable choice, it
can also significantly positive influence the WTP for the sustainable fashion choice.
Furthermore, the results of paired sample t-tests show that for the control condition
(no-nudge) the WTP is not significantly different between the regular and the conscious
cotton T-shirt. However, for the visual and verbal nudge conditions the WTP for the
consciousness cotton T-shirt is significantly higher at a 10% reliability level (t visual nudge
[95] = 2.941, p = .004; t verbal nudge [93] = 1.891, p = . 062).
Moreover, our findings indicate that – in general – participants are eager to pay
a significant higher price for the garment they had chosen. In addition, the willingness to
pay for the sustainable T-shirt was higher than for the regular T-shirt. Therefore, a nudge
towards a sustainable choice can also be a profitable instrument for the fashion industry.
These findings confirm the results of the study of O’Connell (2020) who showed that 37%
of his participants would pay an extra 10% for sustainable fashion products compared to
non-sustainable fashion, and that 31% were even willing to pay 25% more, whereas Moon
et al. (2015) showed that a higher price of sustainable fashion is often seen as a barrier
towards buying.
Moreover, the findings of our binary logistic regression model show that next to the
nudges, ecological conscious behavior has a significant positive impact on consumers’
sustainable choice behavior. This is in line with the research of Diamantopoulos et al.
(2003) which showed that consumers with a high score on environmental concern are
more likely to purchase green products. Our results show that consumers with a relatively
high score on fashion involvement are significant less willing to choose for the sustain
able fashion option. This suggests that consumers with a high involvement rate of fashion
products are less willing to choose for a relatively “slow” fashion sustainable product.
Also Kim et al. (2018) found that involvement in the (fast) fashion development plays
a significant role. They showed that involvement creates an emotional connection which
can be translated in a higher score on loyalty towards the fashion industry. Furthermore,
our results show that sustainable fashion choices are not significantly influenced by age,
gender and the financial situation of consumers.
Our results show that a “relatively” cheap and convenient policy as introducing
a “nudge” on the online website of a fast fashion retailer can significantly influence
the sustainable choice behavior of potential customers (cf. Dianoux et al., 2019).
Furthermore, our findings indicate that potential customers are even willing to pay
more for their (sustainable) choices. Participants in all conditions indicated that they
were willing to purchase the T-shirt, which means that the “extra” push does not
significantly negative influence their purchasing intention behavior. Furthermore, the
verbal nudge had interesting other repercussions. Additional (verbal and visual)
information on the retailer’ website about the sustainable aspects of the product
increased the WTP. In general, sustainable fashion products are more expensive
because of their environmentally friendly materials and processes. This research
shows that if additional information on the environmental aspects of the product is
provided, consumers are willing to pay more for the product. This finding shows that
the barrier of a higher price can be overcome by additional information (Ertekin &
Atik, 2015). Therefore, we can conclude that nudges are a promising tool that fast
fashion companies can implement in their online web shop to direct consumers to
sustainable fashion options. Furthermore, the findings of Tezer and Bodur (2020)
indicate that consumers’ consumption experience significantly improves after buying
a relative environmentally friendly purchase, which even suggests an extra “boost” of
the sustainable fashion choice.
JOURNAL OF GLOBAL FASHION MARKETING 339
Disclosure statement
No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).
ORCID
Irene Roozen http://orcid.org/0000-0002-5152-7334
Mariet Raedts http://orcid.org/0000-0003-3826-8339
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