METROLOGY-WEEKS-6-8-converted

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TECHNOLOGICAL UNIVERSITY OF THE PHILIPPINES VISAYAS

Capt. Sabi St., City of Talisay, Negros Occidental
College of Engineering Technology

Office of the Program Coordinator
LEARNING MODULE
AUT 211: Automotive

Metrology and
Instrumentation
TUPV @ SAGAY CITY
COMPILED BY:
JOSE ALFREDO M. NOMBRE
2020
This module is a property of Technological University of the Philippines Visayas and intended
for EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY and is NOT FOR SALE NOR FOR REPRODUCTION.
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LEARNING GUIDE
WEEK 6.1
TOPIC: ENGINE TESTING INSTRUMENTS
• TACHOMETER
I. EXPECTED COMPETENCIES
At the end of this topic you must have:
1. known the basic principles of each testing instruments;

2. performed the proper use of each testing instruments; and
3. gained the ability to analyze data based on the testing results.
II. THEORIES / PRINCIPLES
A digital tachometer is a digital device

that measures and indicates the speed of a
rotating object. A rotating object may be a bike
tire, a car tire or a ceiling fan, or any other
motor, and so on. A digital tachometer circuit
comprises LCD or LED readout and a memory
for storage. Digital tachometers are more
common these days and they provide
numerical readings instead of dials and
needles.
A digital tachometer is an optical

encoder that determines the angular velocity of
a rotating shaft or motor. Digital tachometers
are used in different applications such as
automobiles, airplanes, and medical and
instrumentation applications.
What is Tachometer?
The word tachometer is derived from

two Greek words: tachos mean “speed” and
metron means “to measure”. It works on the
principle of a tachometer generator, which Fig.1 Digital Tachometer
means when a motor is operated as a generator, Source:
it produces the voltage according to the https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-PCT900-
velocity of the shaft. It is also known as Non-Contact-Tachometer/dp/B002OGVUXE
revolution-counter, and its operating principle
can be electromagnetic, electronic, or optical-based. Power, accuracy, RPM range,
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measurements, and display are the specifications of a tachometer. Tachometers can be analog
or digital indicating meters; however, this article focuses only on the digital tachometers.
Digital Tachometer Types
Digital tachometers are classified into four types based on data acquisition and measurement
techniques.
• Based on the data acquisition technique, the tachometers are of the following types:
1. Contact type
2. Non-Contact type
• Based on the measurement technique, the tachometers are of the following types:
1. Time measurement
2. Frequency measurement
1. Contact Type Digital Tachometer

A tachometer which is in contact
with the rotating shaft is known as contact
type tachometer. This kind of tachometer is
generally fixed to the machine or electric
motor. An optical encoder or magnetic
sensor can also be attached to this so that it
measures its RPM.
Digital Tachometers are capable of

measuring low-speeds at 0.5 rpm and high
speed at 10,000 rpm and are equipped with
a storage pocket for the circumferential
measurement. The specifications of this Fig. 2 Contact Type Digital Tachometer
tachometer are LCD 5 digit display, the Source:
https://www.elprocus.com/introduction-to-digital-
operational temperature range of 0° to +
tachometer-circuit-working-with-8051/
40°C, temperature storage range of – 20° to
+ 55°C, and rotating speed of about 0.5 to
10,000 rpm.
2. Non-Contact Type Digital Tachometer

A tachometer that does not need any physical contact with the rotating shaft is called a
non-contact digital tachometer. In this type, a laser or an optical disk is attached to the rotating
shaft, and it can be read by an IR beam or laser, which is directed by the tachometer.
This type of tachometer can measure from 1 to 99,999 rpm; the measurement angle is
less than 120 degrees, and the tachometer has a five-digit LCD. These types of tachometers are
efficient, durable, accurate, and compact, and also visible from long distance.
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Fig. 3 Non-Contact Type Digital Tachometer

Source:
https://www.elprocus.com/introduction-to-digital-tachometer-
circuit-working-with-8051/
3. Time Measurement Digital Tachometer

A tachometer that calculates the speed by measuring the time interval between
incoming pulses is known as a time-based digital tachometer. The resolution of this tachometer
is independent of the speed of the measurement, and it is more accurate for measuring low
speed.
4. Frequency Measurement Digital Tachometer

A tachometer that calculates the speed by measuring the frequency of the pulses is
called as a frequency-based digital tachometer. This type of tachometer is designed by using a
red LED, and the revolution of this tachometer depends on the rotating shaft, and it is more
accurate for measuring high speed. These tachometers are of low-cost and high-efficiency,
which is in between 1Hz-12 KHz.
The internal operation of these tachometers can be with the use of a tachometer
generator or purely with the electronic components that are described below.
Tachometer Generator
A micro-electric machine that
is used to convert, the rotating speed,
and the shaft values of a machine into
an electric signal is known as a
tachometer generator. The operation of
the tachometer generator is based on
the principle that the angular velocity
of the rotor is proportional to the
generated EMF if the excitation flux is
constant.
Fig. 4 Tachometer Generator
Source:
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These tachometers are specified with generated voltage, accuracy, maximum speed,
ripples, and operating temperature. This kind of tachometer generators is used as sensors in
various automobile and electro-mechanical computer devices.
The generators can be AC or DC types.
Electronic Tachometer
A tachometer made purely from electronic

components and is used to measure the speed of an
engine or any other moving object in revolutions per
minute is known as an electronic tachometer.
Electronic tachometers are used in the dashboard of
a car for measuring the driving speed. These
tachometers are lightweight, easy to view, and
accurate under all conditions.
Fig. 5 Electronic Tachometer

Source:
III. TOOLS, EQUIPMENT & MATERIALS
Tools:
1. Tachometer (Contact and Non-contact type/ Dual, with optional ENC3)
You will need a rotating shaft as of an engine for testing.
IV. TASKS (STEPS) & KEY POINTS
There are many brands of tachometers in the market today but most of them uses the
same principles.
Safety Precautions:
To prevent human incidents such as an injury, be sure to observe the following
instructions when using the instrument.
1. Before proceeding to measurement, wear optimum working cap and wear so that
your hair and clothes are not entangled by the rotating object. Be sure to wear
protective eyeglasses.
2. Never touch the rotating object during measurement.
3. Do not use the instrument if the rotating object to be measured presents any
irregularity.
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4. If there is any risk of endangerment of the measurement personnel by a part of

the rotating object, secure the safety of that part by installing an enclosure, etc.
5. Do not service or modify the instrument unless when replacing the batteries.
6. The instrument should be inspected in the start-up inspection of every day as well
as more than once a year.
NON-CONTACT MEASUREMENT
CAUTION:
1. Before attaching the reflective sticker on the rotating object, remove the
moisture, oil and dust on the sticker attaching surface completely.
2. If the sticker is to be attached on a shiny plated surface, accurate
measurement would be impossible due to diffuse reflections. In this case,
paint the sticker attaching surface black or attach a piece of black tape on the
surface.
3. Protect the reflective sticker on the rotating object against penetration of
intermittent light such as the light from a fluorescent lamp. If an effect of
extraneous light is expected, adjust the positioning of the instrument so that
it displays [0] when the rotating object is not rotating before measurement.
4. Accurate measurement may sometimes be impossible under direct sunlight.
5. Measurement of high-speed rotation may be impossible of the time the
irradiated light passes on the reflective sticker is short (less than about 0.2
second). In this case, increase the area of the reflective sticker.
To perform noncontact measurement, attach the reflective sticker (provided with the
instrument) on the rotating object to be measured as shown below.
Fig. 6 Illustration on how the instrument is positioned

during the noncontact testing.
Source: .sanwa-meter.co.jp
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STEP 1: Turn the instrument ON and set the desired measurement mode.
STEP 2: Point the light perpendicularly to the reflection marking on the rotating
object. The distance between the tip of the detection section of the
instrument and the reflective surface on the rotating object should be
between 50 and 500 mm.
STEP 3: Read instrument displayed result.
CONTACT MEASUREMENT
WARNING:
1. Do not perform measurement if the contact adapter, contact maker or rim speed
ring of the contact measurement attachment is damaged, worn or deformed.
2. Be sure to tighten the contact adapter fixing screw tightly.
3. Fit the contact maker or rim speed ring all the way into the root of the rotary
shaft of the contact adapter.
4. When measuring a high-speed rotating object (8000 rpm or higher), do not
measure it continuously for more than one minute.
5. Do not use a tripod in the contact measurement.
6. Do not use the contact maker or rim speed ring with a high temperature rotating
object.
The contact measurement required the optional ENC-3 Contact Measurement

Attachment.
STEP 1: Attach the contact adapter as shown below and secure the fixing screw
tightly.
Fig. 7 ENC-3 attachment installation.

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STEP 2: Select the contact maker or rim speed ring according to the purpose of
measurement and fit it on the tip of the contact adapter.
Fig. 8 Showing both connector depending on use.

* Select the rim speed ring when measuring the velocity of a belt conveyer or
similar object (Travel distance per minute in m/min or travel distance per
second in m/s).
STEP 3: Turn the instrument ON and select the contact measurement mode.
STEP 4: Apply the contact maker or rim speed ring on the rotating object. Special
care is required for the method of application.
The contact maker should be applied perpendicularly to the contact surface
toward the axis of the rotating object.
The rim speed ring should be applied in parallel with the measurement target.
Fig. 9 Application of contact tachometer for different

connector.
STEP 5: Read instrument displayed result.
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VIDEO RESOURCES:
How to Use a Tachometer
https://youtu.be/J1vsnmyv_5w
Digital Non-contact Tachometer

https://youtu.be/sYQBgy8UN34
V. TEST REVIEW EXERCISES
Discuss the following:
1. What is a tachometer and why is it an important tool in automotive servicing?

2. What are the types of tachometer and how they are being used?
3. Differentiate contact and non-contact type tachometer.
VI. PRODUCTIVITY TEST SHEET/RUBRICS

Score 0-3 4-5 6-7 8-9 10
Level 1 2 3 4 5
Content Usually with The The The The
support, the explanation explanation explanation explanation is
basic is related to is related to is specific to highly
explanation is the topic the topic and the topic and specific to the
generally related with some elaborated elaborated topic and
to the topic with elaboration on with facts upon with provides
limited and is and details researched sufficient
elaboration. beginning to that answer facts and researched
answer the the how and details that information
how and why why answer the and details to
questions. questions. how and why allow the
questions in reader to have
detail. a deep
understanding
of the topic.
VII. REFERENCES
ElProCus, (ND), Introduction to Digital Tachometer Circuit Working with 8051 and Types,
ElProCus - Electronic Projects for Engineering Students,
https://www.elprocus.com/introduction-to-digital-tachometer-circuit-working-with-
8051/
SANWA, (ND), SE300 DIGITAL TACHOMETER 01-1408 2040 6006 INSTRUCTION

MANUAL, Sanwa-meter.co.jp, https://www.sanwa-
meter.co.jp/japan/pdf/manual/tachometer-speedometer/SE300_EN.pdf
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LEARNING GUIDE
WEEK 6.2
TOPICS: ENGINE TESTING INSTRUMENTS
• COMPRESSION TESTER
At the end of this topic you should have:
1. known the basic principles of compression tester;

2. demonstrated the proper use of engine testing instruments; and
3. analyzed data based on testing results.
COMPRESSION TESTER
The internal combustion engine (ICE) is a marvelous thing, harnessing

the power of liquid hydrocarbons–ergo: gasoline or diesel fuel–to create motive
force for motor vehicles. But over the years, after hundreds of thousands of
kilometers and millions of engine revolutions, your car’s engine can start to feel
a little tired.
If you’re experiencing a loss of power that can’t be fixed with new spark
plugs, injectors, or electronic sensors, there is a chance that there’s something
more fundamentally wrong with your engine. An ICE is basically a big air pump
and compressor, sucking in huge amounts of air, mixing it with tiny amounts of
fuel, and squeezing it into a very small combustion chamber using a piston.
When ignited, this mixture pushes the piston back down, turning the engine
crank and pushing the car forward.
Like any pump, achieving the proper pressure requires a good

seal around the piston. Air and water pumps, like your common squirt gun,
syringe, or bicycle pump, use rubber gaskets. A car’s engine requires tougher
stuff. Each piston inside a piston engine is sealed against the cylinder wall with
metal piston rings, while metallic gaskets, valves, and valve seats are required
to ensure proper pressure in the extremely hot combustion chamber.
While quite tough, these components do wear down over time. If your
car is losing power and/or emitting more smoke than usual, it may be time for
a compression test.
A compression tester is a disarmingly simple tool. It’s a pressure gauge

with attachments that allow you to plug it into a spark plug or diesel injector
socket. Once there, both ignition and fuel systems are disconnected and the
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engine is cranked (via the starter motor) a few times. This procedure is repeated
for each cylinder, after which the readings are compared to each other. This is
preferably done on a warm engine, as piston rings often don’t seal properly
when cold.
Engines naturally lose compression over time due to wear and tear, but
having compression that’s a bit lower than it was when brand new–
typically 180-220+ pounds per square inch (psi) of pressure–is okay. What
you’re looking for during the test is abnormally low numbers or numbers which
don’t line up.
If one or more pistons are making 10% less compression than the others,
then it’s time to do a wet test. A little bit of oil is added to the offending
cylinders, then the compression is checked again. If the compression improves,
then the piston rings are not sealing properly. If it doesn’t, then there’s a chance
that your headgasket or valves are at fault.
(Another follow-up test is the leakdown test. With the offending piston
at top dead-center–or the top of its stroke inside the engine–and the valves
closed, air is pumped into the cylinder. The mechanic then checks or listens for
leaks. Air hissing out of the dipstick tube or crankcase vent on top of the engine
indicate piston ring issues. Hissing from the exhaust or intake indicates valve
issues. Bubbles coming out of the coolant, on the other hand, indicate a broken
headgasket or possibly a cracked or warped cylinder head.)
An automotive compression test is very important for determining the

internal condition of an engine. In addition, the compression test allows
automotive technicians to evaluate engine problems that may exist in a wide
range of engine areas. The compression test gives the automotive technician
vital information about engine health, performance and/or problems.
Compression Tester Parts:
1-3 Thread Adoptor

4 Thread Extension
5 Hose and Connector
6 Compression tester
gauge
Tools
• Spark plug socket
• Spark plug wire pliers
• 12" 3⁄8" extension
• 3⁄8" ratchet Courtesy of:
https://www.toolstoday.co.uk/media/documents/VSE30
• Compression tester 0D.pdf
• Oil squirt can
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Materials
You will need a vehicle in order to do the compression test. Ideally the
vehicle will be smaller and preferably a four cylinder. It is much easier to do a
compression test with this type of vehicle.
Terminologies:
Compression tester: A specific

compression gauge used to
determine how much pressure an
engine can produce.
The compression gauge is
graduated in both bar (the red
outer scale) and psi (the black
inner scale). Compression Tester
Courtesy of: https://mytrainingbc.ca/youthexploreskills
Spark plug socket: a specific

socket designed to remove and
install a spark plug. Although it
may look like a regular deep
socket, it is different. Inside the
cavity of the socket is a rubber
sock that protects the spark
plug from scratching, cracking
or breaking. In addition, most Spark Plug Sockets
spark plug sockets have a hex Courtesy of:
https://mytrainingbc.ca/youthexploreskills
on the top of the socket so a
wrench can be used on it for
hard to reach or awkwardly-
placed spark plugs.
Spark plug wire pliers: pliers

that are designed to remove the
spark plug wire from the
sparkplug without causing any
damage.
Spark Plug Boot Plier
Wide open throttle: a condition where the maximum amount of air is allowed
into the engine.
Fuel pump relay: the electrical component that energizes the fuel pump.
Ignition system: the electrical system within a vehicle that delivers spark or
ignition to the engine.
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Resources:
➢ Compression Testing and What You Can Learn from It
www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_tbksFYhl4
➢ How to Do a Compression Test
www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnV7FjLLt2s
Activity 1: Dry Compression Test
Procedure:
1. Start the vehicle and warm it up until the engine is at normal operating
temperature (approximately 5–10 minutes).
Spark plug wires attached to engine

2. Remove all of the spark plug wires from the spark plugs. It is a good
idea to label the spark plug wires so you know which cylinder they came
from.
Note: Grasp and twist the spark plug boot (not the wire) in order to
remove. Sometimes due to the heat of the engine, spark plug boots get
stuck on the spark plugs. In such cases it may be necessary to use spark
plug boot puller/pliers.
3. Disable the ignition system by removing and then grounding the high-
tension lead.
4. Remove the fuel pump relay. This relay is usually found in the fuse box
under the hood and is labelled as such.
5. Remove the fuel pump relay. This relay is usually found in the fuse box
under the hood and is labelled as such.
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Typical fuel pump relay location

6. Remove all the spark plugs using the spark plug sockets.
Label the spark plug wires so they do not get mixed up. Then remove
the center wire and ground this high-tension lead
7. Insert the compression tester into one of the spark plug holes.
Remove center wire.

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Compression gauge inserted into plug hole

8. With a partner crank the engine over for 5 seconds. One person will be
holding the compression tester and the other will be inside the vehicle
cranking the engine over.
Note: Make sure to have the gas pedal all the way to the floor when
performing this operation, as this will allow for maximum air into the
engine.
9. Write down the reading and repeat for the rest of the cylinders.
10. Compare all of the compression test results. They should be within 20%
of each other.
Activity 2: Wet Compression Test
A wet compression test is similar to a dry compression test except it has

the addition of oil placed in each cylinder. A wet compression test is done for
two reasons:
➢ One or more cylinders has a reading of less than 100 psi on the dry
compression test.
➢ One or more cylinders is more than 20% different from the other
cylinders on a dry compression test.
The extra oil in the cylinder should temporarily seal the piston rings in the
cylinder. The results can help diagnose possible engine problems.
Procedure:
1. Perform a dry compression test and record the results.

2. With an oil squirt can, place approximately one tablespoon of oil (15
mL) into the first cylinder—this is roughly two squirts of oil.
Note: Do not put excess oil in the cylinder!
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3. Crank the engine approximately four times to move the oil around the
cylinder.
4. Insert the compression gauge and check the compression as before.
5. Record the new reading.
6. Repeat this process on each cylinder. Note: Squirt oil into one cylinder
at a time. Squirting oil into all the cylinders at once and then doing the
compression test will skew the results, since by the time you get to the
last cylinder the oil will have lost its effectiveness.
7. Compare the results of the wet test with those of the dry test. In
particular, pay attention to the cylinders that were questionable from the
dry compression test. One of two things should happen:
a. The results remain about the same.
Example:
Dry test: 115
Wet test: 120
Diagnosis: The low compression is likely due to wear in the
valves or valve guides.
b. The results improve significantly.

Example:
Dry test: 115
Wet test: 135
Diagnosis: The low compression is likely due to wear in the
piston rings.
Note: When starting the vehicle for the first time after a wet compression
test, excess smoke may come out of the exhaust. This is perfectly
normal and should only last for 2–5 minutes.
Analyzing Data Based on Testing Result (sample)
Cylinder compression tests are performed to identify any cylinders that

have poor compression. If a cylinder has a low compression, perform a wet
compression test to indicate whether it’s a bad valve, head gasket, or worn
piston rings causing the problem.
Courtesy of: https://www.freeasestudyguides.com
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Introducing oil into the cylinder with worn piston rings increases the
cylinder’s compression. The oil fills the gap between the worn rings and
cylinder walls. If there’s no increase in compression after running the test, an
intake or exhaust valve is faulty.
A compression test can be used to compare the compression of one

cylinder to the others. An engine’s cylinders need a good seal between the
piston rings and the cylinder walls, and between valves and their respective
seats.
Wet Compression Test Diagnosis
The results of a compression test can be quite telling. The results shown
below indicate the particular area that needs attention.
Worn piston rings/cylinder walls: After running the first test, squirt a
teaspoon of oil into the cylinder and rotate the crankshaft six more turns. If the
compression increases, the piston rings are at fault.
Burned valves: If the result remain the same, one of the valves is bad or not
seating correctly. Low compression in only one cylinder typically indicates a
bad valve. Exhaust valves burn due to hot gasses passing through. Intake
valves have the added advantage of fuel flow, keeping them cooler.
Valve timing: When all of the cylinders are low and inserting oil into the
cylinder does not increase compression, the camshaft timing is slightly off.
The timing belt can slip on the sprockets resulting in staggered and low
compression results.
A hole in the piston: A hole in a piston will result in no compression in that

cylinder. Remove the oil cap or PCV valve from its grommet. Blowby caused
by this hole can be seen seeping through these openings.
Carbon buildup: Carbon buildup on the top of the piston increases

compression readings. It can be seen with the probe inserted into the cylinder.
A faulty head gasket: A faulty or blown head gasket will leak compression
between two adjacent cylinders. When the other cylinders are within
specifications, and two adjacent cylinders on the same bank are low, suspect a
faulty head gasket.
Testing your understanding. Answer the following in your own words.
1. When to do a compression test on an engine?

2. Why you need to do a compression testing?
3. How do you get an engine to running temperature?
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4. Why do you need to remove the high tension cable from the coil when
performing compression testing?
5. What is the purpose of disconnecting the ignition and fuel system when
performing the compression testing?
Score 1-2 3-4 5-6 7-8 9-10

Level 1 2 3 4 5
detail. a deep
understanding
of the topic.
Source:
https://schools.edu.ky/Documents/Teacher%20Resources%20Literacy
VII. REFERENCES
Tamayo, (2017), Does Your Car Engine Need a Compression Test?, The Top Gear
Philippines, https://www.topgear.com.ph
ASE Certification Practice Tests, (ND), Wet Compression Test Results Explained,
Freeasestudyguides.com, https://www.freeasestudyguides.com/compression-test-
injecting-oil.html
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LEARNING GUIDE
WEEK 7.1
• CYLINDER LEAKAGE TESTER

1. known the basic principles of each testing instruments;
2. performed the proper use of each testing instruments; and
Cylinder Leakage Test
Another test that measures how well the cylinders seal is the cylinder leakage
test. This test also identifies the parts that are worn or defective, causing the leakage.
Although the cylinder leakage tester (Fig. 1) performs about the same thing as the
compression tester, but it does it in a different way. During the leakage test, the engine
does not have to be cranked. Instead of measuring the air pressure formed on the
compression stroke, the leakage tester applies air into the cylinder and measures the
amount of air that leaks out the cylinder past the valves, rings, or head gasket. With
the piston at TDC in the compression stroke, both valves are closed. This should allow
very little air to escape when air is introduced by the leakage tester. It is normal for
some air to leak past the rings, but the amount should be small. The cylinder leakage
tester can precisely locate the points of leakage. These points of excessive leakage are
found by feeling or listening to the air escaping.
Fig. 1 Cylinder Leakage Tester

Source: https://dannysengineportal.com/how-to-do-a-cylinder-leak-down-test-with-or-without-a-tester/
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The cylinder leakage tester compares the amount of air pressure applied by the
tester to the cylinder to the amount that the cylinder is able to hold. An outside air
supply is needed to use this tester. Usually, automobile shops are equipped with an air
supply. If the air supply has 690 kPa pressures and the cylinder is able to hold 550
kPa, the cylinder allows 20% of the air to escape. The escaping air can be felt or heard
from the carburetor or throttle body if it is escaping past the intake valve; from the
tailpipe or exhaust pipe if it is escaping from the exhaust valve; from the oil filler tube
if it is escaping by the piston rings; and from the radiator if it is escaping from the
head gasket or a cracked cylinder head or block.
To use the tester, warm up the engine, then remove all the spark plugs. Now
remove the air cleaner assembly, oil filler cap or dipstick and radiator cap, and block
the throttle to a full wide-open position. Check the fluid in the radiator and fill it to
the proper level.
The tester is fitted with a hose that threads into the spark plug hole and fastens
to the tester. Install the appropriate size hose into the number 1 cylinder. Most testers
are also equipped with a whistle to help locate TDC. If a whistle is available, connect
it to the tester end of the hose. Crank the engine until the whistle sounds, which means
that the piston is moving towards TDC on the compression stroke. If no whistle is
available, put the thumb over the end of the hose to feel the pressure building up.
Continue to rotate the engine until the timing marks on the crankshaft align at TDC.
At this point the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke and the valves are closed.
Disconnect the whistle from the hose and connect the hose to the tester.
Now, connect the shop air supply to the tester. The gauge on the tester should
show a reading. This reading indicates the amount of air that is leaking out of the
cylinder. Listen at the radiator, oil filler, carburetor, and tailpipe for the escaping air.
Also check if air is leaking from cylinder next to the one being tested. If air is escaping
from an adjoining cylinder, the head gasket leaks between cylinders.
Test the other cylinders in the same way. Make sure that each cylinder is at TDC
of the compression stroke before applying air into the cylinder. One can use the
distributor’s rotor and its alignment with the terminals of the distributor cap to locate
TDC of the different cylinders. If the piston is not at TDC, the air applied to the
cylinder may push the piston down, and this causes the valves to open as the crankshaft
turns. To measure the amount of leakage in a cylinder accurately, the valves must be
closed. If high amounts of leakage are recorded, disconnect the air supply and attempt
to reset TDC again to repeat the test.
Gauge readings of less than 20% are normal unless there is a noticeable amount
of air leaking through the carburetor, exhaust, oil filler, radiator, or adjacent cylinder.
Any reading over 20% is on the higher side and the location of the air leakage
identifies the problem. Obviously, if higher is the leakage, the greater is the problem.
The cylinder leakage tester has an advantage over the compression tester
because it provides precise identification of the problem area. Carbon build-up also
does not influence the readings. Therefore, this test tends to provide a truer picture of
the mechanical condition of the engine. The biggest disadvantage of this test is that it
requires more time to conduct than the compression test.
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An internal combustion engine makes power by first drawing air and fuel into
the combustion chamber. Next is the compression of the mixture and the addition of
a spark. The harnessing of the resulting contained explosion is ultimately what powers
the car. As an engine gets on in miles, the containment of this power can be lost due
to piston ring, valve or cylinder wall wear. Engine performance will suffer as a result.
Pressure reading
A common test of an engine’s ability to compress the air-fuel mixture is an
engine compression test. A pressure gauge is connected in place of the spark plug.
The engine is then cranked to create a pressure reading. A compression test is a good
way to check the engine’s ability to create pressure. The gauge reads the positive
pressure created by the cylinder.
Loss reading
An engine leakdown test is a compression test in reverse. Instead of measuring
the engine’s ability to create pressure, compressed air is introduced into the cylinder
through the spark plug hole. One gauge on the tester measures the pressure of the air
entering the cylinder and the other measures the percentage of the air escaping (or
leaking) from the cylinder. The loss percentage will indicate the condition of the
cylinder and overall condition of the engine.
Top dead center

Before sending air into the engine, the cylinder being tested must be placed at
Top Dead Center (TDC). The piston must be at the top of its travel. The intake and
exhaust valves must be closed. When the air is compressed into the cylinder, the
leakdown tester will measure any loss of air escaping past valves or piston rings. If
the cylinder is not at TDC, air escaping past an open valve will give a false reading.
Reading results
No engine will have perfect sealing with 0 percent loss. Five to 10 percent loss
indicates an engine in great to good running order. An engine between 10 and 20
percent can still run OK, but it’ll be time to keep an eye (or ear) on things. Above 20
percent loss and it may be time for a teardown and rebuild. Thirty percent? Major
problems. The percent of leakage should also be consistent across the cylinders. Any
great differences indicate a problem in that cylinder.
Hearing problems
Beyond getting an overall picture of engine condition, the engine leakdown test
is an excellent way to pinpoint where problems are before tearing down the engine.
Listening for where the air is escaping by ear can isolate the problem.
• Intake valve: Air whistling out of the intake, carburetor or throttle body
indicates a leak at the intake valve.
• Exhaust valve: Air heard hissing out of the tailpipe, turbocharger or exhaust
manifold means an exhaust valve leak.
• Piston rings: Whistling or hissing out of the PCV valve, oil filler cap hole or
dipstick tube means the air is pushing past the rings. Suspect ring or cylinder
wall wear.
• Head gasket: Air bubbles in engine coolant seen at the radiator filler cap could
mean air escaping into the coolant past the head gasket.
12
• Cracked cylinder head: Bubbles in coolant or coolant being pushed up out of

the radiator neck can also indicate cracks in the cylinder head or cylinder
walls.
You will need a compressed air source, a leakdown gauge kit, spark plug
socket, basic hand tools, vehicle service manual and a notepad to record results.
Step 1 : Remove the spark plugs and rotate the engine to put the cylinder to be tested
at TDC. Tip: Insert a long screwdriver or extension into the spark plug hole
and turn the engine by hand with a socket on the crankshaft. When the
screwdriver stops rising or falling, you’re at TDC. Don’t turn the engine
backward if TDC is missed. Go around again. In a four-cylinder engine,
cylinders one and four and two and three are at TDC at the same time.
Fig. 2
Source:https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/auto-care/vehicle-maintenance/how-
to-do-a-leakdown-test
Step 2 : Figure out which spark plug adapter works best and connect the gauge into the
hole. Put the vehicle in gear and set the parking brake to prevent the engine
from turning when air is compressed into the cylinder. Start with the regulator
turned counterclockwise to zero the incoming pressure. Connect compressed
air. Turn the regulator clockwise to pressurize air into the cylinder.
Fig. 3
13
Step 3 : Record leakage percentage for the cylinder. Remove the oil dipstick, radiator
cap and oil filler cap. Open the throttle body or remove the air cleaner. Listen
and watch. Wherever air is escaping will indicate where the problem is.
Disconnect the gauge and move to the next cylinder.
Fig. 4
VIDEO RESOURCES:
How-To Cylinder Leakdown Test

➢ https://youtu.be/hGv70RyiGGc
Cylinder Leak Down

➢ https://youtu.be/og9nXfXSaoY
Answer the following based on your understanding of the topic.
1. What is a cylinder leakage tester?

2. Why do you need to perform a cylinder leakdown test on the engine?
3. How is dry and wet cylinder leakage test performed?
Score 1-2 3-4 5-6 7-8 9-10

Level 1 2 3 4 5
14

detail. a deep
understanding
of the topic.
VII. REFERENCES
What-When-How In Depth Tutorials and Information, (ND), Cylinder Leakage Test

(Automobile), What-when-how.com, https://what-when-
how.com/automobile/cylinder-leakage-test-automobile/
BUMBECK, (ND), How to do a leakdown test | Mobil™ Motor Oils, Mobil.com,

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/auto-
care/vehicle-maintenance/how-to-do-a-leakdown-test
0
LEARNING GUIDE
WEEK 7.2
• FUEL PRESSURE TESTER

1. known the basic principles of fuel pressure tester;
2. performed the proper use of the testing instruments; and
Parts and Functions
1) Dial Face: Measurement scale that

shows amount of fuel pressure present in
fuel system.
2) Pressure Relief Button: Used to relieve

fuel pressure in the gauge hose before
disconnecting the gauge hose from the fuel
rail.
3) Bleed-Off Hose: A 6-ft. hose that bleeds

off fuel pressure when the pressure relief
button is pressed. It is acceptable to shorten
this hose to a more convenient length.
Important: Always make sure end of

bleed-off hose is in an approved
container for fuel at all times during
testing and when bleeding off fuel
pressure!!
Fig. 1 Fuel Pressure Tester
4) Gauge Hose: Hose that carries fuel to the Source: https://www.moto-tech.com.au
gauge so that pressure can be measured.
5) Adaptor fitting: connection for various adaptors.
1
Fig. 2 Actual Fuel Pressure Tester

Source: https://www.moto-tech.com.au
Fuel Injection System – Theory
There are two basic types of fuel injection systems currently being used. The first type
is called "direct" or "multiport" fuel injection. In this system, the fuel injectors spray
fuel directly into the intake manifold behind the intake valve. These systems typically
have one fuel injector per cylinder. The second type is commonly called Throttle Body
Injection (TBI) or Central Fuel Injection (CFI). These systems use one or two fuel
injectors mounted on top of the intake manifold. They spray fuel into the throttle body
similarly to a conventional carburetor.
Fuel Injection System Components
Before doing any fuel pressure testing, it is a good idea to understand how fuel system
components work and how they relate to one another. The fuel pump pumps fuel from
the fuel tank to the fuel pressure regulator and fuel injectors. The fuel pressure regulator
divides fuel between the pressure line and the return line. The fuel in the pressure line
goes to the fuel injectors, while the fuel in the return line is returned to the fuel tank.
Fuel Pump Filter: A filter that is usually located in the fuel tank. Its function is to
prevent foreign particles from reaching the fuel pump. A clogged or restricted fuel
pump filter can cause low fuel pressure readings. When replacing a fuel pump it is a
good idea to clean or replace the fuel pump filter.
a. Fuel Pump: An electric motor that pumps fuel into the fuel system at a constant
pressure. It is mounted in the fuel tank or on the frame. Some vehicles have more
than one fuel pump.
b. Return Line: Path way for excess fuel to return to the fuel tank.
2
c. Pressure Line: A pressurized fuel line that carries fuel from the fuel tank to the fuel
injectors.
d. Fuel Filter: An in-line filter that is located in the pressure line. Its function is to
prevent foreign particles from reaching the fuel injectors. A clogged or restricted
fuel filter can also cause low fuel pressure readings. This is the only fuel system
component that requires periodic replacement. Refer to vehicle manual for
replacement interval.
e. Fuel Pressure Test Port: A 6mm (as on some Suzuki & Honda M/Cs) or Schrader
(as on cars) valve located on the fuel rail that allows easy connection of a fuel
pressure gauge to measure fuel pressure. Where no test port is fitted, it is necessary
to tee into the fuel pressure line using the adaptors supplied – use chart for reference.
f. Fuel Pressure Regulator: The fuel pressure regulator is connected across the
pressure line and return line. It contains a spring-loaded valve assembly that opens
to allow fuel to move into the return line, when the pressure line fuel pressure is
exceeded. It is used to keep a constant fuel pressure drop across the fuel injectors.
Some fuel pressure regulators have a vacuum port so fuel pressure can be adjusted
based on engine load. These are commonly called vacuum actuated (compensated)
fuel pressure regulators. A leaking fuel pressure regulator can cause low fuel
pressure readings and hard starting problems.
g. Fuel Rail: The fuel rail assembly is bolted to the intake manifold. Its purpose is to
deliver pressurized fuel to the fuel injectors and, in some cases, to hold the fuel
injectors in place.
h. Fuel Injectors: A precision valve that is controlled by a solenoid. Fuel injection is
controlled by the amount of fuel pressure, and the size and duration of the valve
opening. Fuel injectors contain a filter used to prevent very small particles from
clogging the valve. Leaking fuel injectors will cause fuel pressure to slowly decrease
when the ignition key is on and engine is off.
• Fuel pressure tester

• Shop Rugs
• Vehicle to be tested
Pre-Testing Checks
1. Read Safety Precautions.

2. Do a thorough visual and "hands-on" inspection of the engine and fuel system.
Look for loose or cracked electrical wiring, battery cables, ignition wires, and
fuel or vacuum lines.
3. Verify that the battery is fully charged and fuel tank has an adequate supply of
fuel.
4. Verify that all fuel system fuses are good.
5. Verify fuel vapor recovery system and filler cap are in good condition.
6. Verify that inlet vacuum is within manufacturers' specification at idle.
7. Look for fuel leaks and wipe up any spilled fuel immediately.
3
8. If engine will not start, check ignition system for spark. If no ignition spark is
present, refer to vehicle manual.
Fuel Pressure Testing Procedures
This test procedure explains how to make fuel pressure measurements on

vehicles while the ignition key is on and while the engine is at idle. The procedure also
explains the safest way to connect and disconnect the fuel pressure tester kit from
vehicles equipped with test ports. If the fuel pressure readings measured in this test
procedure are not within your vehicles manufacturing specification, then you must use
your vehicle service manual along with the fuel pressure tester kit to service the
problem. This test procedure does not contain any vehicle specific diagnostics.
1. Read all SAFETY PRECAUTIONS and PRE-TESTING CHECKS.

2. Ensure all connections between port adapters are tight and sealed.
3. Turn Ignition Key OFF.
4. Locate fuel rail test port (if present) and remove any protective cap.
5. Note: Always wrap a shop rag around fuel rail test port when attaching test port
adapters. This is a precaution in case a small amount of fuel leaks out while
attaching adapters.
6. Attach any adaptors as per vehicle manufacturer’s instructions.
7. Place end of 6 ft. bleed-off hose in an approved container for fuel. Bleed-off
hose must remain in container until testing is complete.
8. Turn all accessories OFF.
9. Turn ignition key ON.
Do the following checks...
• Listen for fuel pump. Pump should run for approximately 2 seconds.
• Check fuel system for leaks. If leaks are found, turn ignition key OFF and
wipe up fuel immediately!
• Read fuel pressure from dial face. Pressure should rise to manufacturer’s
specification and hold steady even after fuel pump stops running. Refer to
vehicle service manual for fuel pressure specifications.
• If fuel pressure is not within manufacturer’s specification, than service vehicle
according to service manual.
• When repair is completed and key-on-engine-off fuel pressure is now within
manufacturer’s specification, proceed to Step 11.
10. Start engine - Let idle.

• For instructions on how to safely disconnect the Pressure Tester from
the fuel rail test port, proceed to Step 12.
• If your vehicles fuel system uses a vacuum actuated (compensated) fuel
pressure regulator then fuel pressure should drop approximately 3-10
psi, depending on manifold vacuum.
• If your vehicles fuel system uses a fuel pressure regulator without a
vacuum port than fuel pressure should remain constant during both key-
on-engine-off and idle.
• To safely disconnect the Fuel Pressure Tester Kit from the fuel rail test
port and perform repairs at a later time, proceed to Step 11.
4
11. Turn Ignition Key OFF.

12) Verify that 6 ft. bleed-off hose is still in an approved container for fuel.
13) Fully DEPRESS and HOLD the pressure relief button until dial face pointer
is resting on stop pin.
14) Shake bleed-off hose to make sure that all fuel went into approved container.
15) Remove gauge hose from fuel test port or adaptor.
16) Store shop rags in an approved container so they cannot cause personal injury
or a hazardous situation.
17) Store Fuel Pressure Tester in a well-ventilated area where it cannot cause
personal injury or a hazardous situation.
General Fuel Pressure Diagnostics
Fuel pressure checking is an essential part of fuel injection system

troubleshooting. High fuel pressure can make an engine run rich, while low fuel pressure
can make an engine run lean or not at all. Fuel pressure readings that are higher than
manufacturers' specifications are generally caused by a problem in the return line fuel
components. Conversely, fuel pressure readings that are lower than manufacturer’s
specifications are generally caused by a problem in the pressure line fuel components. If
fuel pressure readings are not within manufacturer’s specifications, then refer to a vehicle
service manual for step-by-step diagnostic procedures that will pinpoint the faulty
component for your specific vehicle.
Possible causes of high fuel pressure readings are the following:

• Faulty fuel pressure regulator.
• Restriction in return line.
• Faulty fuel line couplings at fuel tank.
Possible causes of low fuel pressure readings are the following:

• Clogged or restricted fuel filter.
• Restriction in pressure line.
• Faulty fuel pump.
• Faulty fuel pump relay.
• Bad fuel pump fuse.
• Faulty fuel pump wiring.
• Clogged or restricted fuel pump filter.
• Faulty fuel pressure regulator.
• Leaking fuel injectors
• Faulty fuel line couplings at fuel tank.
VIDEO RESOURCES:
➢ Fuel pressure Test
https://youtu.be/_oXLUqE4Sf0
5
1. What is a fuel pressure tester and what are its importance?

2. Discuss only one of the possible causes high fuel pressure reading?
3. Discuss two possible causes of low fuel pressure reading.
Score 1-2 3-4 5-6 7-8 9-10

Level 1 2 3 4 5
detail. a deep
understanding
of the topic.
VII. REFERENCES
MOTO-TECH DIAGNOSTICS, (ND), Fuel Pressure Test Kit, Moto-tech.com.au,

https://www.moto-
tech.com.au/content/Downloads/Manuals/FPT%20KIT%20instructions.pdf
JENSEN, (2020), Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance,

Shop.advanceautoparts.com, https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/r/car-
projects/how-to-use-a-fuel-pressure-tester
0
LEARNING GUIDE
WEEK 8
• EXHAUST EMISSION TESTER
1. known the basic principles of exhaust emission tester;

2. performed the proper use of the testing instruments; and
Exhaust gas analyzer
An exhaust gas analyzer measures the amount of various gases in the exhaust.
There are two main types:
1. Two-gas analyzer that measures HC and CO.
2. Four-gas analyzer that measures HC, CO, O2, and CO2.
Fig. 1 CLOSEUP OF AN CLASSICAL EXHAUST

ANALYZER USED AT AN AUTO EMISSION INSPECTION
STATION IN DOWNTOWN CINCINNATI, OHIO.
Source: https://commons.wikimedia.org
1
The purpose of making these measurements is to help determine the condition

of the engine, ignition system, fuel system and emission controls. On a car with
catalytic converter, tail pipe readings made with a two-gas analyzer (fig. 2) are often of
little value. Normal action of the catalyst reduces the HC and CO nearly to zero.
Four-gas analyzers (fig. 1 and 3) provide more complete analysis of the tail pipe
exhaust gas. Carbon monoxide (CO2) and oxygen (O2) in the exhaust gas from the
cylinder pass unchanged through the catalytic converter. Measuring these gases at the
tail pipe gives a more complete picture of the air-fuel mixture entering the cylinder and
the combustion process.
FOUR-GAS ANALYSIS
Figure 2 shows the conversion efficiency of the catalytic converter as the air-
fuel ratio varies from rich to lean. Combustion at the stoichiometric ratio of 14.7: 1
provides maximum conversion efficiency. This results in a minimum tail pipe emissions
of HC and CO.
Figure 3 shows the relationship among the four gases measured by the four-gas
analyzer. Each gas and its readings are described below.
Fig. 2
Source: Automotive Mechanics
By: Crouse and Anglin
HC Readings: The HC meter reports the amount of hydrocarbons (unburned gasoline)

in the exhaust. It reports this as parts per million (ppm). A reading of 200 means that
every million parts of exhaust gas has 200 parts of HC. The exhaust gas of newer cars
has less than 100 ppm of HC. Older vehicles are much higher emitters. Even in good
condition they may emit 400 ppm or more.
High HC could result from trouble in the emission controls, or fuel, or ignition
system. The air-fuel mixture could be rich (or lean so there is misfiring). The ignition
2
system may be out of time or misfiring. An engine with worn rings and cylinders,
burned valves, or a blown head gasket emits high levels of HC.
Fig. 3
CO Readings: Carbon monoxide is a by-product of combustion. The amount of CO is

measured as a percentage by volume. One percent means that one percent of the exhaust
gas is CO. Some automotive engines produce less than 0.5 percent CO. A rich mixture
or not enough oxygen to burn the fuel produces excessive CO. Possible causes are
misfiring, a restricted air filter, and a leaking fuel injector or carburetor needle-and-seat.
CO2 Readings: Carbon dioxide is a product of combustion that is measured as a

percentage by volume. HC must burn to produce CO2. Any change in air-fuel ration
and the combustion process causes a change in CO2. Normally, CO2 is above eight
percent. The highest CO2 reading occurs at about the 14.7: 1 stoichiometric air-fuel
ratio (Fig. 3). Low CO2 readings indicate a rich mixture.
O2 Readings: These measure the percentage of oxygen remaining in the exhaust gas
after combustion has occurred. The air we breathe is about 21 percent oxygen. At idle,
the engine should produce less than three percent O2. If the engine is running richer
than 14.7: 1, O2 is low. As the air-fuel ratio becomes leaner than 14.7: 1, O2 increases.
When lean misfire occurs, O2 increases greatly.
3

• Exhaust emission tester
• A vehicle to be tested on its exhaust gases
Procedure on How to Perform Exhaust Emission Testing
1. To use the exhaust gas analyzer, block off the air flow from the air-injection or
air-aspirator system. This prevents the additional air from affecting the
readings.
2. Insert the exhaust-gas pickup or probe into the tail pipe of the car. The probe
draws out some of the exhaust gas and carries it through the analyzer.
Meters, a display, or a printout show how much of each gas is in the sample of
the exhaust gas.
A different type of tester measures NOx, but it works in almost the same way.
It draws exhaust gas on the tail pipe and runs the gas through an analyzer. The finding
is reported in grams per mile. NOx testers are usually only in testing laboratories. Hey
are not usually used in automotive-service work.
When testing exhaust emission, the tester manufacturer’s operating

instructions. Figure 4 shows suggested testing specifications.
Fig. 4 Suggested test specifications for testing exhaust emission.

3. Take the readings with the engine idling at normal operating temperature.
4. Repeat the tests with the engine running at 1500 rpm and 2500 rpm.
NOTE: An exhaust gas analyzer can also be used to check for exhaust-gas leakage
into the cooling system.
VIDEO RESOURCES:
Using A 4-Gas Analyser To Diagnose Vehicle Emissions System Problem

➢ https://youtu.be/lF85JLuJNaM
Exhaust Gas Analysis for Basic Students
➢ https://youtu.be/WzFflPK1y_E
4
1. What is an exhaust emission tester?

2. Discuss the two-gas and four-gas analyzer?
3. Why and when to perform an exhaust emission test?
4. What are the possible causes of the following exhaust emission analyzer reading:
a. high and low HC readings?
b. high and low CO readings?
c. high and low CO2 readings?
d. high and low O2 readings?
Score 1-2 3-4 5-6 7-8 9-10

Level 1 2 3 4 5
detail. a deep
understanding
of the topic.
VI. REFERENCES
WIKIPEDIA, 2020, Exhaust gas analyzer, En.wikipedia.org,

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_analyzer#/media/File:CLOSEU
P_OF_AN_EXHAUST_ANALYZER_USED_AT_AN_AUTO_EMISSIO
N_INSPECTION_STATION_IN_DOWNTOWN_CINCINNATI,_OHIO._
A_HOSE_FROM..._-_NARA_-_557890.jpg
CROUSE, et al., 2004, Automotive Mechanics, McGraw-Hill School Publishing, 10th

Edition, 1993
5

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TECHNOLOGICAL UNIVERSITY OF THE PHILIPPINES VISAYAS

College of Engineering Technology

AUT 211: Automotive

TUPV @ SAGAY CITY

JOSE ALFREDO M. NOMBRE

TOPIC: ENGINE TESTING INSTRUMENTS

At the end of this topic you must have:

1. known the basic principles of each testing instruments;

II. THEORIES / PRINCIPLES

A digital tachometer is a digital device

A digital tachometer is an optical

The word tachometer is derived from

Digital Tachometer Types

1. Contact Type Digital Tachometer

Digital Tachometers are capable of

2. Non-Contact Type Digital Tachometer

Fig. 3 Non-Contact Type Digital Tachometer

3. Time Measurement Digital Tachometer

4. Frequency Measurement Digital Tachometer

The generators can be AC or DC types.

A tachometer made purely from electronic

Fig. 5 Electronic Tachometer

III. TOOLS, EQUIPMENT & MATERIALS

1. Tachometer (Contact and Non-contact type/ Dual, with optional ENC3)

You will need a rotating shaft as of an engine for testing.

IV. TASKS (STEPS) & KEY POINTS

4. If there is any risk of endangerment of the measurement personnel by a part of

Fig. 6 Illustration on how the instrument is positioned

STEP 3: Read instrument displayed result.

The contact measurement required the optional ENC-3 Contact Measurement

Fig. 7 ENC-3 attachment installation.

Fig. 8 Showing both connector depending on use.

Fig. 9 Application of contact tachometer for different

STEP 5: Read instrument displayed result.

Digital Non-contact Tachometer

V. TEST REVIEW EXERCISES

Discuss the following:

1. What is a tachometer and why is it an important tool in automotive servicing?

VI. PRODUCTIVITY TEST SHEET/RUBRICS

SANWA, (ND), SE300 DIGITAL TACHOMETER 01-1408 2040 6006 INSTRUCTION

TOPICS: ENGINE TESTING INSTRUMENTS

At the end of this topic you should have:

1. known the basic principles of compression tester;

II. THEORIES / PRINCIPLES

The internal combustion engine (ICE) is a marvelous thing, harnessing

Like any pump, achieving the proper pressure requires a good

A compression tester is a disarmingly simple tool. It’s a pressure gauge

An automotive compression test is very important for determining the

III. TOOLS, EQUIPMENT & MATERIALS

Compression Tester Parts:

1-3 Thread Adoptor

Compression tester: A specific

Spark plug socket: a specific

Spark plug wire pliers: pliers

IV. TASKS (STEPS) & KEY POINTS

Activity 1: Dry Compression Test

Spark plug wires attached to engine

Typical fuel pump relay location

Remove center wire.