Barrel_lock_shock

Lock, Shock and Barrel Amigurumi – The Nightmare before Christmas By SquarepigCrochet
Barrel
Materials needed:
• Crochet needle 3 mm and 2 mm

• Sewing needle
• Crème yarn 50 grams of each color is plenty)
• Medium grey yarn
• Minty green yarn
• Grass green yarn
• White yarn
• 2 pipe cleaners (optional)
• Felt in the colors: black, white, grey, minty-
greenish blue.
• Cotton to fill
Stitches used in this pattern:
Ch: chain
Sc: single crochet
Dsc: double crochet
Hdsc: half double crochet
Bob: Bobble stitch
Inc: increase
Dec: decrease
Sl St: slip stitch
Not familiar with a stitch? Check www.squarepig.nl for a link to a Youtube tutorial.
1/7
Note:
• I have used Schachenmayr SMC Catania (sport, 5
ply) or Phildar cotton 3 for these patterns but as
long as you match your hook size with the yarn of
your choice, you can use anything you like. Just
keep in mind that it might turn out a bit bigger of
smaller than the doll I’ve made.
• I usually crochet in a spiral, because I find my work
to be neater that way. When I do nót use the spiral
method I mention this in the pattern.
• Crochet all the parts before sewing them together
for the best result.
How to read the pattern:

When I write: 4 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc
This is what I mean: sc, sc, sc, sc, inc, inc, sc, sc, sc,
sc, sc, inc, inc, sc
After the round you can find the total of stitches the round
has to end up to.
Head:
Use crème yarn
Rnd 1: Start off with a magic ring with 6 sc (6 sc)

Rnd 2: 6 inc (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) * 6 (18 sc)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) * 6 (24 sc)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) * 6 (30 sc)
Rnd 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) * 6 (36 sc)
Rnd 7-10: 36 sc (36 sc)
(4 rnds)
Rnd 11: (4 sc, 1 dec) * 6 (30 sc)
Rnd 12: (3 sc, 1 dec) * 6, start stuffing! (24 sc)
Rnd 13: 6 dec (12 sc)
Rnd 14: 6 dec, fasten off, stuff firmly. Leave a tail of yarn to attach the head to (6 sc)
the neck.
Ears (make 2):

Use crème yarn

Rnd 2 -3: 6 sc, finish with a slip stitch after the last stitch of rnd 3, leave a tail of (6 sc)
(2 rnds) yarn for sewing the ear onto the head.
Nose:
Use crème yarn

Rnd 2: 6 sc, (6 sc)
Rnd 3: Only 3 sc, finish with a slip stitch a leave the rest of the stitches
undone. Leave a tail of yarn for sewing the nose onto the head.
One side of the nose is now slightly longer that the other side, this is
the bottom of the nose.
2/7
Body:
Use grey yarn
Rnd 1: Ch 8, 1 inc in the 2nd ch from the hook, 5 (18 sc)

sc, 4 sc in the last chain, continue on the
other side of the chain, 5 sc, 1 inc.
This creates the first round of an oval
shape.
Rnd 2: 2 inc, 5 sc, 4 inc, 5 sc, 2 inc (26 sc)
Rnd 3-13: 26 sc, Finish with a slip stitch after the (26 sc)
(11rnds) last stitch of rnd 13 and finish off.
Pants:
Use grey yarn
Rnd 1: Ch 12, close the round with a slip stitch in the first chain. (12 sc)
Rnd 2: 12 sc in the 3rd loop of the chain (I explain the 3rd loop in my short (12 sc)
video about Lock’s tail: https://youtu.be/MLRJv-TAvYk)
Rnd 3-5: 12 sc (12 sc)
(3 rnds)
Rnd 6: 4 sl st, 8 sc (the slip stitches will shape the back of the knee, keep an (12 sc)
eye on them when crocheting the legs together).
Rnd 7-9: 12 sc (12 sc)
(3 rnds)
Repeat round 1-9 for the second leg but do not finish off, you’ll continue to crochet the legs together
from that point.
Rnd 10: Put both legs next to each other with the back of the knees facing the (22 sc)
same way, crochet them together with 1 sc. Then continue to circle the
legs, first the 11 remaining stiches of the right leg (when seen from the
front) and then switch to the 11 remaining stiches of the left leg. You
won’t work into the 1 sc you’ve used to attach the legs together
anymore so you lose one sc on each leg. This creates one larger circle
of 22 sc, I looks a bit like a peanut in the beginning.
Rnd 11: 8 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc, 3 inc, 7 sc (the bundles of increases should be (29 sc)
roughly above the back of the knees, this will be his butt cheeks).
Rnd 12: 29 sc (29 sc)
Rnd 13: 7 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc (26 sc)
Rnd 14: 10 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc. Finish with a slip stitch, leave a tail of
yarn to sew the pants onto the body.
Put the legs next to each other as seen in the first picture. Attach the together with 1 sc. Circle the right
pants leg first and then continue on the second one as seen in the 3 rd picture.
3/7
Check out his

little butt cheeks!
Feet (make 2):

Use a minty green yarn

Rnd 3: 1 sc, 4 hdsc-inc, 7 sc (16 sc)
Rnd 4: Crochet every stitch of this round into the backloop only, except for the (16 sc)
bobblestitches that will be the toes.
3 sc, (1 bob, 1 sc) * 3, 7 sc
Rnd 5: 1 sc, 5 dec, 5 sc (11 sc)
Rnd 6: 3 dec, 5 sc (8 sc)
Rnd 7: 8 sc, finish off. (8 sc)
Arms (make 2):

Use grey yarn

Rnd 2-4: 8 sc (8 sc)
(3 rnds)
Rnd 5: 1 inc, 7 sc (9 sc)
Rnd 6: 9 sc (9 sc)
Rnd 7: 1 inc, 8 sc (10 sc)
Rnd 8-12: 10 sc. Finish with a slip stitch after the last stitch of rnd 12, leave a tail (8 sc)
(5 rnds) of yarn for attaching the hands to the arm.
Hands (make 2):

Use crème yarn

Rnd 2-5: 8 sc (8 sc)
(3 rnds)
Rnd 6: (2 sc, 1 dec) * 2 (2 sc)
Use the yarn left from the start the
embroider a tiny thumb onto rnd 3,
with 5 stitches on top of each other
in the same spot.
4/7
Assembling the doll:
Barrel is short and stocky, there is no need for pipe cleaners in the
legs. In the arms it’s optional you can also stuff those lightly. I usually
fold them in half and twist them to make them sturdier and the point
won’t be as sharp. If the doll is meant for a small child, do nót use
them! Use the color of the sleeves and the pants to attach the hands
and feet.
Barrels head is round, there is no intended front or back so just pick

the side that looks best.
The nose will be attached to the front of the face it’s attached on round
8 and 9. The longer side has to face the bottom so the tip op the nose
points a bit upwards. You can use the leftover tail of yarn from the
nose to attach it. You don’t have to stuff the nose. You can embroider
2 nostrils on the nose by making tiny French knots (or regular knots if
you’re not familiar with embroidery) in a dark grey color.
Sew the ears onto round 8 and 9 of the head (counted from the top).
Flatten them a bit and pin the on the head first, to make sure the
placement is correct before they are attached. Check from the top of the
head if they are right across from each other.
Stuff the feet. Now put the feet into the pants legs, make sure to toes
both point in the right direction and sew them on. Stuff the pants when
the feet are attached.
Now stuff the body lightly and fit the pants into the body. Make sure the
stitches are not too tight, this will change the shape of the doll! Stuff the
doll some more when you’re half way done and close the gap after that.
Not put the hands onto some pipe cleaners and cut the pipe
cleaners to the right size. Slide the sleeves over them from the
other side. Sew the sleeves to the hands with grey yarn. Now
sew the arms to the body with a couple of stitches on the second
and third round of the body.
Now pin the head to the body. Barrel has no neck, the head will
be flat on the body, this can be achieved by stitching up and
down in a circle and pulling it tight after a every couple of stiches.
Now that all the parts are attached you can embroider the bones
on his outfit! On each arm and leg will be two bones above each
other and on the chest will be 7 vertebra in the middle and three
ribs on each side. Measure out your placement with pins so you
know how big they can be and simply stitch them on. I’ve tried to
use a long thread and do as many pieces as possible with it so I
didn’t have to sew in to many yarn ends. The vertebra and ribs
are all four stitches thick, the middle of the bones is three stitches
think and the knobbly bits of the bones are two stitches thick.
(check the pictures for placement!)
5/7
Now embroider the hair in the grassy green color that
you haven’t used yet. Use a double thread for this for
nice coverage. The hair starts at 2 rounds past the top
of the head (put a pin in it to mark it!) then close
behind the ears all the way to the back where it almost
touches the body.
Start embroidering at the neck and work upwards, this
way the ‘hair’ layers naturally on top of each other.
Now all that’s left to do is to cut the face out of felt

and glue it on! You can try a couple different positions
to give your Barrel the expression you like. You can
use the pattern for the pieces on the next page. It
might be that the pieces are a bit smaller or bigger
because of your printer of maybe the size of your doll
is different from mine.
6/7
7/7
Lock
Materials needed:

• Sewing needle
• Crème yarn (1 ball, 50 grams of each color is
plenty)
• Red yarn
• Darker red yarn
• 1 2ipe cleaners (optional)
• Felt in the colors: black, white, yellow, purple and
minty-greenish blue.
• Cotton to fill
Ch: chain
Sc: single crochet
Dsc: double crochet
Inc: increase
Dec: decrease
Sl St: slip stitch
1/7
Note:
• I have used Schachenmayr SMC Catania (sport, 5 ply) or Phildar cotton 3 for these patterns but
as long as you match your hook size with the yarn of your choice, you can use anything you
like. Just keep in mind that it might turn out a bit bigger of smaller than the doll I’ve made.
• I usually crochet in a spiral, because I find my work to be neater that way. When I do nót use
the spiral method I mention this in the pattern.
• Crochet all the parts before sewing them together for the best result.

This is what I mean: sc, sc, sc, sc, inc, inc, sc, sc, sc, sc, sc, inc, inc, sc
After the round you can find the total of stitches the round has to end up to.
Lock
Head:
Use crème yarn

Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) * 6 (18 sc)
Rnd 4: (5 sc, 1 inc) * 3 (24 sc)
Rnd 5-8: 21 sc (21 sc)
(4 rnds)
Rnd 9: 1 dec, 19 sc (20 sc)
Rnd 10-14: 20 sc (20 sc)
(5 rnds)
Rnd 15: 2 dec, 16 sc (18 sc)
Rnd 16: 2 dec, 14 sc (16 sc)
Rnd 17: 2 dec, 12 sc, start stuffing! (14 sc)
Rnd 18: 2 dec, 10 sc (12 sc)
Rnd 19: 2 dec, 8 sc, make sure it’s stuffed. (10 sc)
Rnd 20: 5 dec, sew the small hole shut by flattening
that part with your fingers at sew the hole
shut in a straight line. This will create a
pointy chin. Finish off neatly, you can hide
the leftover tail of yarn in the head.
Neck:
Use crème yarn
Rnd 1: Ch 6, close the round with a slip stitch in (6 sc)

the first chain. Leave a slightly longer tail of
yarn at the beginning, you can use this later
to attach the neck to the head.
Rnd 2 -4: 6 sc, finish with a slip stitch after the last (6 sc)
(3 rnds) stitch of rnd 4, leave a tail of yarn for sewing
the neck onto the body.
Ears (make 2):

Use crème yarn

Rnd 2 -3: 6 sc, finish with a slip stitch after the last (6 sc)
(2 rnds) stitch of rnd 3, leave a tail of yarn for sewing
the ears onto the head.
2/7
Body:
Use red yarn
Rnd 1: Ch 6, 1 inc in the 2nd ch from the hook, 3 sc, 4 sc in the last (14 sc)
chain, continue on the other side of the chain, 3 sc, 1 inc.
This creates the first round of an oval shape. (check the picture
of Barrels body if you’re not sure how this is supposed to look).
Rnd 2: 2 inc, 3 sc, 4 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (22 sc)
Rnd 3: (1 inc, 10 sc) * 2 (24 sc)
Rnd 4-11: 24 sc (24 sc)
(8 rnds)
Rnd 12: 8 sc,1 inc, 15 sc (25 sc)
Rnd 13-15: 25 sc. Finish with a slip stitch after the last stitch of rnd 15, leave (25 sc)
(3 rnds) a tail of yarn for sewing the body onto the pants.
Pants: The first picture shows the 3rd look at the back of the chain, the second picture shows the front of
the chain and the last picture shows where you close the round (rnd 1).
Pants:
Use red yarn
Rnd 1: Ch 8, close the round with a slip stitch in the first chain. (8 sc)
Rnd 2: 8 sc in the 3rd loop of the chain (I explain the 3rd loop in the video about (8 sc)
Lock’s tail: https://youtu.be/MLRJv-TAvYk
Rnd 3-4: 8 sc (8 sc)
(2 rnds)
Rnd 6: 1 inc, 8 sc (10 sc)
Rnd 7: 1 inc, 9 sc (11 sc)
Rnd 8: 1 inc, 10 sc (12 sc)
Rnd 9: 1 inc, 11 sc (13 sc)
Rnd 10: 13 sc, finish off. (13 sc)
Repeat round 1-10 for the second leg but do not finish off, you’ll continue to crochet the legs together
from that point.
Rnd 11: Put both legs next to each other as seen in the pictures below, crochet (20 sc)
them together with 3 sc. Then continue to circle the legs, first the 10
remaining stiches of the right leg (when seen from front) and then
switch to the 10 remaining stiches of the left leg. You won’t work into
3/7
the 3 sc you’ve used to attach the legs together anymore. This creates
one larger circle of 20 sc. This creates one larger circle of 22 sc, I
looks a bit like a peanut in the beginning.
Rnd 12: 20 sc (20 sc)
Rnd 13: 2 sc, 2 inc, 12 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc (24 sc)
Rnd 14-15: 24 sc (24 sc)
(2 rnds)
Rnd 16: 1 dec, 10 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc, finish off. (22 sc)
Feet (make 2):

Use dark red yarn

Rnd 2: (1 inc, 3 sc) * 2 (10 sc)
Rnd 3-8: 10 sc, stuff after round 8 (10 sc)
(6 rnds)
Rnd 9: 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec (8 sc)
Rnd 10: 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec (6 sc)
Rnd 11: 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, pull the leftover tail (4 sc)
of yarn through all the outside loops
using a needle and pull the small hole
shut, finish off neatly.
Hands (make 2):

Use crème yarn

Rnd 2 -4: 6 sc (6 sc)
(3 rnds)
Rnd 5: (1 sc, 1 dec) * 2 (4 sc)
Use the yarn left from the start the embroider a tiny thumb onto rnd 3,
with 5 stitches on top of each other in the same spot.
Arms (make 2):

Use red yarn

Rnd 2: 6 sc (6 sc)
Rnd 4: 7 sc (7 sc)
Rnd 6-8: 8 sc (8 sc)
(3 rnds)
Rnd 9: 3 sl st, 1 sc, 3 hdsc, 1 sc (8 sc)
Rnd 10: 4 sc, 3 hdsc, 1 sc (8 sc)
Rnd 11-14: 8 sc. Finish with a slip stitch after the last stitch of rnd 14, leave a tail (8 sc)
(4 rnds) of yarn for attaching the hands to the arm.
4/7
Tail:
Use red yarn
Every slip stitch of the tail has to be made into the 3rd loop
(see my video about the tail and the 3rd loop!).
https://youtu.be/MLRJv-TAvYk
Chain 16, put a marker in the 14th stitch (or 3rd stitch
from the hook). Sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook, (ch 2,
sl st in the 2nd chain from the hook) * 2, sl st back along
the chain until you’ve reached the end. Leave a tail of
yarn to attach the tail to the pants.
Hair (make 2):

Use a dark red yarn (same color as the feet, make 2)

Rnd 2-5: 4 sc, pull the leftover tail of yarn through all the outside loops using a (4 sc)
(4 rnds) needle and pull the small hole shut, finish off but leave a tail of yarn to
attach the hair to the head.
Lock is not very tall, there is no need for pipe cleaners in the
legs, in the arms it’s optional you can also stuff those lightly for a
more childproof-doll. However, he does have quite big head so
the neck needs some help.
Start by laying down the head on its side, the straight side is the
front of the face and the side that slopes of the back of the head
(the jawline). Attach the neck to the head on round 15 and 16,
using the tail of yarn you left on the neck. Use a twice folded pipe
cleaner about 3 or 4 times the length of the neck (when folded),
twist the pipe cleaners to make them a good and sturdy whole.
Part of it has to be in the head and part will stick of out the neck
to later be stuck into the body. Make sure to poke it firmly into the
head.
5/7
Attach the ears on round 12 and 13 of the head. Check from the
top of the head if they are right across from each other. It’s
smart to pin them on first so they don’t move while you sew
them on.
Define the front and the back of the doll. The back of the doll if
where you’ve increased on round 13 of the pants (the butt). Now
sew the tail to the top round of the pants the middle of the back.
Continue by stuffing the pants and the body and pin them
together, make sure they overlap two or three rounds so it will
look like Lock is wearing the shirt over the pants. Use the tail of
yarn that you left on the body to sew the body to the pants.
Pin the head and neck on to the body and stick the pipe cleaner
firmly into the middle at the top of the body. Make sure they are
sewn on straight and attach them with the tail of yarn you left on
the neck.
You can now sew the feet to the pants, pin them on first to make sure they are positioned correctly and
use the color of the pants to attach them. Check that the toes face forwards!
Now pin the arms to the sides, at the point where the body starts going
straight down. Check of the elbows bent the right way before attaching
them! Just attach them with a couple of stitches at the shoulder, enough
to be attached firmly but not too much so they can still move a bit. After
that, stick the hands into the sleeves and attach them with the color of
the sleeves. Make sure the thumbs point forward / slightly inwards.
To attach the crocheted parts of the hair, put a short bit of pipe cleaner
through 1 sc of the head and fold in in half so there won’t be a sharp
end sticking out. Slip the hair over it on both sides and sew it to the
head with the tail of yarn you left. You can also use this bit of yarn to
get a head start on embroidering the hair.
6/7
Now embroider the hair in the dark red yarn. Use a double thread for this for nice coverage. The hair
starts right above the neck then close behind the ears and past the top of the head (put a pin in it to
mark it!)
Start embroidering at the neck and work upwards, this way the ‘hair’ layers naturally on top of each
other.
Now all that’s left to do is to cut the face out of felt and glue it on! You can try a couple different
positions to give your Lock the expression you like. You can use the pattern for the pieces below. It
might be that the pieces are a bit smaller or bigger because of your printer of maybe the size of your doll
is different from mine. Sew on the eyebrows with two little stitches in the same color as the hair and
embroider a nose on him in a color close to the skincolor.
7/7
Shock
Materials needed:

• Sewing needle
• Crème yarn (1 ball, 50 grams of each color is plenty)
• Lavender purple yarn
• Darker purple yarn
• Dark grey yarn
• 4 pipe cleaners (optional)
• Felt in the colors: black, white, grey, minty- greenish blue.
• Cotton to fill
Ch: chain
Sc: single crochet
Dsc: double crochet
Inc: increase
Dec: decrease
Sl St: slip stitch
1/8
Note:
• I have used Schachenmayr SMC Catania (sport, 5
ply) or Phildar cotton 3 for these patterns but as
long as you match your hook size with the yarn of
your choice, you can use anything you like. Just
keep in mind that it might turn out a bit bigger of
smaller than the doll I’ve made.
• I usually crochet in a spiral, because I find my work
to be neater that way. When I do nót use the spiral
method I mention this in the pattern.
• Crochet all the parts before sewing them together
for the best result.

This is what I mean: sc, sc, sc, sc, inc, inc, sc, sc, sc,
sc, sc, inc, inc, sc
After the round you can find the total of stitches the round
has to end up to.
Head:
Use crème yarn

Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) * 6 (18 sc)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) * 6 (24 sc)
Rnd 5-10: 24 sc (24 sc)
(6 rnds)
Rnd 11: 1 dec, 22 sc (23 sc)
Rnd 12: 1 dec, 21 sc (22 sc)
Rnd 13: 1 dec, 20 sc (21 sc)
Rnd 14: 1 dec, 19 sc (20 sc)
Rnd 15: 1 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc (18 sc)
Rnd 16: 2 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, start stuffing! (16 sc)
Rnd 19: 2 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc 10 sc)
Rnd 20: 2 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec (8 sc)
Rnd 21 -22: 8 sc (8 sc)
(2 rnds)
Rnd 23: Switch to the lavender purple. (1 inc, 1 sc) * 4 (12 sc)
Rnd 24: (1 sc, 1 inc) * 6 (18 sc)
Rnd 25: 18 sc (18 sc)
Rnd 26: (5 sc, 1 inc) * 3 (21 sc)
Rnd 27-28: 21 sc (21 sc)
(2 rnds)
Rnd 29: (6 sc, 1 inc) * 3 (24 sc)
Rnd 30: (3 sc, 1 inc) * 6 (30 sc)
Rnd 31: 2 sc, 1 inc, (4 sc, 1 inc) * 5, 2 sc (36 sc)
Rnd 32-33: 36 sc (36 sc)
(2 rnds)
Rnd 34: 1 inc, 20 sc, 1 inc, 14 sc (38 sc)
Rnd 35: 38 sc (38 sc)
Rnd 36: 1 inc, 20 sc, 1 inc, 16 sc (40 sc)
2/8
Rnd 37: 3 sc, 1 inc, 20 sc, 1 inc, 15 sc, finish off with a sl st. (42 sc)
Rnd 38: Attach a dark purple yarn to the back of the dress in the middle, make
sure to only use the back loop. Now crochet in every stitch in the back
loop only one of these 3 varieties:
1 sl st, 2 sc, 1 sl st
1 sl st, 2 hdsc, 1 sl st
1 sl st, 2 dsc, 1 sl st
Mix it up a bit so the hem of the dress will look irregular.
When finished to the trimming of the dress, crochet 18 sc of dark purple around round 23 (on the color
change in the neck), so (1 sc, 1 inc) * 6 starting in the back, this will be the collar of the dress.
Nose:
Use crème yarn

Rnd 3: 1 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc (8 sc)
Rnd 4: 3 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc (10 sc)
Rnd 5: 4 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc (12 sc)
Rnd 6: 5 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc (14 sc)
Rnd 7: 6 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc (16 sc)
Rnd 8: 7 sc, 2 inc, 7 sc, Finish with a slip stitch, leave a tail of yarn for (18 sc)
attaching the nose to the face.
3/8
Ears (make 2):
Use crème yarn

Rnd 2 -3: 6 sc, finish with a slip stitch after the last stitch of rnd 3, leave a tail of (6 sc)
(2 rnds) yarn for sewing the ear onto the head.
Butt:
Use dark grey yarn

Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) * 6 (18 sc)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) * 6 (24 sc)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) * 6 (30 sc)
Rnd 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) * 6 (36 sc)
Rnd 7-8: 36 sc, finish off. Attach the but to the inside of the body with the (36 sc)
(2 rnds) lavender purple.
Legs (make 2):

Use dark grey yarn
Rnd 1: Ch 10, close the round with a slip stitch in the first chain. Leave a tail (10 sc)
or yarn at the start to attach the leg to the feet.
Rnd 2-3: 10 sc (10 sc)
(2 rnds)
Rnd 6-12: 8 sc, finish off, leave a tail of yarn to attach the leg to the butt. (8 sc)
(7 rnds) The legs do not need stuffing when you use pipecleaners.
Feet (make 2):

Use dark grey yarn

Rnd 2: (1 inc, 3 sc) * 2 (10 sc)
Rnd 3-8: 10 sc, stuff after round 8 (10 sc)
(6 rnds)
Rnd 10: 1 dec, 7 sc (8 sc)
Rnd 11: 4 dec, pull the leftover tail of yarn through all the outside loops using a (4 sc)
needle and pull the small hole shut, finish off neatly.
4/8
Hat:
Use dark purple yarn

Rnd 2-3: 4 sc (4 sc)
(2 rnds)
Rnd 5: 5 sc (5 sc)
Rnd 6: 2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc (6 sc)
Rnd 7: 6 sc (6 sc)
Rnd 9: 7 sc (7 sc)
Rnd 10: 3 sl st, 4 sc (7 sc)
Rnd 11: 7 sc (7 sc)
Rnd 12: 4 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc (8 sc)
Rnd 13-14: 8 sc (8 sc)
(2 rnds)
Rnd 15: 1 inc, 7 sc (9 sc)
Rnd 16: 9 sc (9 sc)
Rnd 17: 5 sc, 4 sl st (9 sc)
Rnd 18-19: 9 sc (9 sc)
(2 rnds)
Rnd 20: 1 inc, 8 sc (10 sc)
Rnd 21: 10 sc (10 sc)
Rnd 22: 5 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc (11 sc)
Rnd 23-24: 11 sc (11 sc)
(2 rnds)
Rnd 25: 1 inc, 10 sc (12 sc)
Rnd 26: 12 sc (12 sc)
Rnd 27: 5 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc (13 sc)
Rnd 28: 13 sc (13 sc)
Rnd 29: 1 inc, 12 sc (14 sc)
Rnd 30: 6 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc (15 sc)
Rnd 31: 15 sc (15 sc)
Rnd 32: 1 inc, 14 sc (16 sc)
Rnd 33-34: 16 sc (16 sc)
(2 rnds)
Rnd 35: Change to a hook that is one size smaller, the next part needs to be tight (24 sc)
for it to not be too ‘floppy’. Crochet in de front loop only, (1 sc, 1 inc) * 8
(see the picture on the left below)
Rnd 36: In both loops again, (2 sc, 1 inc) * 8 (32 sc)
Rnd 37: (2 sc, 1 inc) * 8 (40 sc)
Rnd 38: (3 sc, 1 inc) * 10 (50 sc)
Rnd 39: 3 sc, 1 inc , (4 sc, 1 inc) * 9, 1 sc (60 sc)
Rnd 40: (5 sc, 1 inc) * 10 (70 sc)
Rnd 41: 3 sc, 1 inc, (6 sc, 1 inc) * 9, 3 sc (80 sc)
Rnd 42: Change back to your bigger hook, crochet one round of sl st all around
and finish off neatly.
5/8
Hair (make 12):

Use dark grey yarn
Rnd 1: Chain 20 sc (20 sc)

Weave in the start end to about half way the chain and finish off. Use
the other end to sew the hairs to the hat before you attach the hat to
the head.
Arms (make 2):

Use lavender yarn
Rnd 1: Start off with a magic ring with 6 sc (you can use the start-tail to (6 sc)
attach the arm to the body by pulling it outwards after the second or
third round, keep it extra long if you plan on doing this).
Rnd 2: (1 inc, 2 sc) * 2 (8 sc)
Rnd 3-7: 8 sc (8 sc)
(5 rnds)
Rnd 8: 3 sl st, 5 sc (8 sc)
Rnd 9: 3 sl st, 5 sc (8 sc)
Rnd 10-15: 8 sc, finish off but leave a tail of yarn to attach the hand to the sleeve. (8 sc)
(6 rnds)
Hands (make 2):

Use crème yarn

Rnd 2 -4: 6 sc (6 sc)
(3 rnds)
Rnd 5: (1 sc, 1 dec) * 2 (4 sc)
Use the yarn left from the start the embroider a tiny thumb onto rnd 3,
with 5 stitches on top of each other in the same spot.
6/8
Shock is the tallest of the three, it is advised to use pipe

cleaners in the legs. I usually fold them in half and twist them to
make them sturdier and the point won’t be as sharp. If the doll is
meant for a small child, do nót use them! In the arms it’s
optional, you can also stuff those lightly. Use the color of the
sleeves and the pants to attach the hands and feet, crème
stitches will show on the outside.
The nose will be attached to the front of the face (at the side
where the increases and decreases happen) it’s attached
between round 6 and 14 and has to be stuffed very lightly to
remain nice and flat when seen from the front. You can use the
leftover tail of yarn from the nose to attach it.
Sew the ears onto round 8 of the head (counted from the top).
Flatten them and then fold them in half, I usually fasten it with
one or to stitches before attaching the ear to the head to make
sure the shape remains the same.
Now attach the legs to the butt by sticking the pipe cleaners
between the 2nd and 3rd round of the butt, both on each side of
the middle. Cut the pipe cleaners at the right length. Pull the legs
over it and sew the legs to the butt. The smallest part of the leg is
attached to the butt, the wider part will be sewn to the feet. Pin
the feet onto the legs, make sure to toes both point in the right
direction and sew them on.
Now stuff the body lightly and fit the butt into the body. Check if
the head is not too ‘floppy’, you can add a pipe cleaner to the
neck at this point if necessary. Attach these parts with the
lavender color of the dress about 5 rounds from the hem. Make
sure the stitches are not too tight, this will change the shape of
the doll! Stuff the doll some more when you’re half way done and
close the gap after that.
Not put the hands onto some pipe cleaners and slide the sleeves over them
from the other side. Sew the sleeves to the hands with lavender purple. Now sew the arms to the body
with a couple of stitches on the second and third lavender round of the body.
7/8
Lay the hat down flat and attach al 12

of the hairs to it with your needle.
You can hide they tails of the hair
inside the hat. Stuff about 2/3 of the
hat lightly. Use dark purple to sew
the hat to the head. Simply flat on top
of it.
Now all that’s left to do is to cut the

face out of felt and glue it on! You
can try a couple different positions to
give your Shock the expression you
like. You can use the pattern for the
pieces on the right. It might be that
the pieces are a bit smaller or bigger
because of your printer or maybe the
size of your doll is different from
mine.
8/8

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Lock, Shock and Barrel Amigurumi – The Nightmare before Christmas By SquarepigCrochet

• Crochet needle 3 mm and 2 mm

Stitches used in this pattern:

How to read the pattern:

Rnd 1: Start off with a magic ring with 6 sc (6 sc)

Ears (make 2):

Rnd 1: Start off with a magic ring with 6 sc (6 sc)

Rnd 1: Start off with a magic ring with 6 sc (6 sc)

Rnd 1: Ch 8, 1 inc in the 2nd ch from the hook, 5 (18 sc)

Check out his

Feet (make 2):

Rnd 1: Start off with a magic ring with 6 sc (6 sc)

Arms (make 2):

Rnd 1: Start off with a magic ring with 8 sc (8 sc)

Hands (make 2):

Rnd 1: Start off with a magic ring with 8 sc (8 sc)

Barrels head is round, there is no intended front or back so just pick

Now all that’s left to do is to cut the face out of felt

• Crochet needle 3 mm and 2 mm

Stitches used in this pattern:

How to read the pattern:

Rnd 1: Start off with a magic ring with 6 sc (6 sc)

Rnd 1: Ch 6, close the round with a slip stitch in (6 sc)

Ears (make 2):

Rnd 1: Start off with a magic ring with 6 sc (6 sc)

Feet (make 2):

Rnd 1: Start off with a magic ring with 8 sc (8 sc)

Hands (make 2):

Rnd 1: Start off with a magic ring with 6 sc (6 sc)

Arms (make 2):

Rnd 1: Start off with a magic ring with 6 sc (6 sc)

Hair (make 2):

Rnd 1: Start off with a magic ring with 4 sc (4 sc)

Assembling the doll:

• Crochet needle 3 mm and 2 mm

Stitches used in this pattern:

How to read the pattern:

Rnd 1: Start off with a magic ring with 6 sc (6 sc)

Rnd 1: Start off with a magic ring with 4 sc (4 sc)

Rnd 1: Start off with a magic ring with 6 sc (6 sc)

Rnd 1: Start off with a magic ring with 6 sc (6 sc)

Legs (make 2):

Feet (make 2):

Rnd 1: Start off with a magic ring with 8 sc (8 sc)

Rnd 1: Start off with a magic ring with 4 sc (4 sc)

Hair (make 12):

Rnd 1: Chain 20 sc (20 sc)

Arms (make 2):

Hands (make 2):

Rnd 1: Start off with a magic ring with 6 sc (6 sc)

Assembling the doll:

Shock is the tallest of the three, it is advised to use pipe

Lay the hat down flat and attach al 12

Now all that’s left to do is to cut the

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