WEAVING DEPARTMENT

Linen catches the fancy of a creative mind. Its fluid look stirs the creative drive and the crease, the poise and the harmony of Linen makes it one of the most preferred fabric by the designers all over the world. Linen has a surprising adaptability that suits any fashion wear. History of Linen weaving: The incredible fabric, Linen, is the oldest fabric woven on earth. The human civilization reached a pinnacle of achievement when Linen was discovered. Linen has a wealth of properties that almost no other natural fabric can boast of. Linen symbolizes a regal elegance that defines the erstwhile royal fabric, once widely worn by the monarchs of the world. The Egyptians first discovered the flax plant, from which linen was woven. Ancient Egyptians believed that linen was a gift of God and regarded it as sacred. Linen probably came to Ireland in early Christian times. It was the Irish, who popularized linen worldwide and St. Patrik, the patron Saint of Ireland, is said to be buried in a shroud of linen. The production of Linen continued through the Middle Ages, but it was not until the 17th Century that the industry started to develop in a structured way, initially under the guidance of the Earl Stafford and the Duke of Ormonde. Although the world had seen much of linen by the 20th century, this incredible fabric was first brought to India by Jaya Shree Textiles in the year 1949. Sourcing the raw fibres from Belgium and France, Jaya Shree Textiles manufactures linen under the brand of Linen Club Fabrics with the finest European technology incorporated in the spinning, weaving, and processing functions, to produce unparalleled quality of European Linen, right here in India. Attributes of Linen: y Moisture absorbent: Its double moisture absorption capacity than cotton makes it the most thirsty fabric. UV protective: Linen protects the skin from harmful UV rays and sun allergies. Natural breathing: Linen is truly comfortable and easy to wear in every season. It is insulating in winter and breathable in summer, due to its thermo regulator properties. Anti bacterial: Linen is a Health Fabric because it is inherently anti-bacterial.

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Weaving at Jayashree Textiles includes both with and without dyed yarns. The weaving department at Jayashree Textiles, Rishra, has got two sections: y y New weaving plant (48 looms) Old weaving plant (50 looms)

All together there are 98 looms at Jayashree Textiles. The weaving function of Linen Club harnesses technology to make a difference in the form of advanced machineries: y y Swiss Projectile Sulzer 7200 (20 looms) Swiss Rapier Sulzer 6200 (78 looms)

PROCESS: Sourcing of yarns: The flax plant requires a climate that has adequate daylight, cool and short nights, and weather that is both damp and warm. Such conditions exist in Belgium, the Netherlands and France. The raw material that goes into making Linen Club Fabrics comes from France and Belgium. Yarns are also supplied from flax spinning department. This accounts for about 50% of the total yarns utilized. Warps yarns are mostly flax, while weft yarns vary depending upon the design requirement. Preparatory process: 1. Warping: In general terms, warping is the process of transferring the yarns from the creel of single end package forming a parallel sheet of yarns wound onto a beam or a sectional beam. Types: y y y y Direct warping Sectional warping Ball warping Draw warping

At Jayashree Textiles, sectional warping is practiced. The creel capacity here is

In sectional warping the beam is divided according to the requirement of ends. Lets consider an example, that if we have 6000 ends then we divide it into 10 divisions so that we can get 600 ends because the capacity is reed in sectional warping is 600. In sectional warping ends first wound on the drum and then they are transferred to the sectional beam.
Fig 1: Creeling

2. Denting: After completing the warping process when the warp is ready, with the help of a drawing hook all the warp ends are drawn through the dents of the reed, generally by twos and this is called Denting or Reeding.

Fig 2: Denting

3. Leasing and Drumming:

Fig 3: leasing

Fig 4: leasing

Fig 5: Drumming

4. Beaming: The warp is wrapped on a beam in its central position under high tension. This is called beaming. 5. Drawing or Knotting: After beaming, either drawing or knotting takes place. After the completion of beaming process all the ends should be drawn out of the reeds and then according to design the ends should be drawn through the heald eyes by one with the help of a drawing hook. This is called drafting or drawing. If the design to be loaded on the machine, is the as the previous one, then, the process includes Knotting. Drawing is carried out using heald wire, draw pin or 6. Gaiting: With the help of a gaiting trolley, the new set is loaded on to the loom. This involves quick style change.

Fig 6: yarn passes through heald eyes.

Fig 7: gaiting trolley

7. Stroke setting: This involves setting or adjusting the gap between the right rapied head and reed of the loom, according to the required width of the fabric to be woven. 8. Programming: PRS software is used for programming purposes. Through data carrier, the design is transferred from computer to the looms. After the fabric is produced of the required quantity, it is removed from the loom. This precedes cutting, which is done manually by the operator. The Fabric roll is then rolled off, i.e., it is sent to the inspection department for testing.
Fig 8: display showing the software

Color range in the machines: y y For Swiss Rapier Sulzer 6200, a range of 6 10 types of colored yarns can be used. For Swiss Projectile Sulzer 7200, maximum 4 colors can be used.

Machine efficiency: The efficiency of any loom is calculated by the following formula: (R.P.M. 60 8) / (P.P.I. 39.54) % Production information: y y y y Daily production is 16000 meters on an average. Workers are appointed in three shifts. Each operator handles 4 looms. Atmospheric conditions: 75% humidity, dry temperature of 25 - 27 C is to be maintained within the production floor. This is to reduce yarn breakages.

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1st piece of any new design is of 55 meters. This is a test piece, to check, any flaws. Rest all pieces are of 110 meters in length.