C23 Wan Yunus Wan Ahmad UiTM

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EXTRACTION OF NATURAL DYES FROM Melastoma malabathricum L.

AND Dicranopteris linearis PLANT


Wan Yunus Wan Ahmad1, Norashikin Saim, Mohd Azlin Mohd Nor, Muhammad Ismail Ab Kadir, Mohd Rozi Ahmad Department of Textile Technology, Faculty of Applied Sciences, Universiti Teknolgi MARA, Shah Alam, Malaysia (wanyunus@salam.uitm.edu.my) ABSTRACT Malaysia has abundance of underutilized plants or waste plants such as senduduk (Melastoma malabathricum L.) and fern (Dicranopteris linearis). These plants can be converted into natural dyes for colouration of fabrics. The present research has successfully produced five colours out of one source through boiling and solvent extraction. Water, methanol and acidified methanol were used as solvent to extract the dyes from plant. The dyes produced were dyed on silk fabric and tested for their colour fastness to washing properties. Several mordants were also used for fixing the colour on the fabrics. The use of different solvents and mordants produced different colour shades on the fabric. Overall, the colour fastness to washing grading of 2 to 5 was obtained which is good. However, the change in colour was in the range of 2 to 4. The finding will benefit dyeing and printing industry such as batik manufacturers and can also benefit local fashion industry in promoting the use of natural colourant. Moreover, the dyes obtained from the plants may also be alternative sources to synthetic dyes for the dyeing of natural silk fibre. INTRODUCTION Natural dyes can be sorted into three categories: natural dyes obtained from plants for example indigo, those obtained from animals for example cochineal, and those obtained from minerals for example ocher (Kris D. (n.d)). Natural dyes/colorants derived from flora and fauna are believed to be safe because of its non-toxic, non-carcinogenic and biodegradable in nature (Bhuyan et al., 2004). However, the use of natural dyes to colour textiles declined rapidly after the discovery of synthetic dyes in 1856 and they were not used by 1900 (Cristea and Vilarem, 2006). The main reason for the replacement of natural dyes by their synthetic counterparts is that most natural dyes have poor to moderate wash and light fastness, while synthetic dyes represent the full range of wash and light fastness at moderate costs (Cristea et al, 2007). Lately however, there is a growing interest in the revival of natural dyes in textile colouration (Bechtold et al, 2007; Bhuyan and Saikia, 2005). This is as a result of the worldwide concern over the carcinogenic effects, toxicity and allergic reactions associated with synthetic dyes (Bhuyan and Saikia, 2005). Moreover, many countries already imposed stringent environmental standards over synthetic dyes. Germany, for instance banned the azo dyes (Vankar et al., 2007). In contrast, natural dyes are environmental friendly, exhibit better biodegradability and generally have a higher compatibility with the environment than synthetic dyes.

Malaysia, with a tropical climate, is home to a very large number of plant species; many of them are used by natives in folk medicine. Malaysia is among the worlds mega biodiversity rich countries in terms of number of plant species (Faravani et. al, 2008) which also included Melastoma malabathricum L. and Dicranopteris linearis plant. Although it is unlikely all dyestuffs will be produced solely from plants, it is an interesting and exciting prospect that one day a percentage of everyday colours could be naturally derived (Gilbert and Cooke, 2001). OBJECTIVES The objectives of this research are: 1. To utilize waste plants for the production of natural dyes 2. To produce natural dyes in liquid and powder form 3. To apply these dyes on silk fabrics METHODOLOGY Extraction of natural dyes from Melastoma malabathricum L. and Dicranopteris linearis plants were carried out through boiling and solvent extraction process. The materials were cut into small pieces and soaked in water, methanol or acidified methanol. In the case of boiling method, the materials were cut into small pieces, soaked in distilled water and heated for 1 hour at 100oC. However, for solvent extraction method, the materials were cut into small pieces and soaked in methanol or acidified methanol and placed in dark room for two days at room temperature. The solution was then filtered and mixed with 2% of selected mordant based on weight fabric (o.w.f.). The dye liquor was used to dye silk fabric at 80oC for 1 hour. Soap at boil was carried out to remove unattached dyes for 5 minutes. The dyed fabrics were also analysed in terms of colour fastness to washing using several standard methods: Colour fastness to washing: MS ISO 105-C01-1996, MS ISO 105-A05-2003, MS ISO 105-A04-2003

SELECTED PLANT CUT INTO SMALL PIECES SOLVENT EXTRACTION ROTARY EVAPORATOR CRUDE + CYCLODEXTRIN BALL DYEING COLOURFASTNESS TESTING

RESULTS Colour Reflectance Colour Reflectance from Dicranopteris linearis leaf extracted through boiling method

ALUM IRON TIN TAWAS WOOD

Figure 1. Colour reflectance from Dicranopteris linearis with several mordant (Boiling)

Colour Reflectance from Dicranopteris linearis extracted through solvent extraction method (Methanol)
ALUM IRON TIN TAWAS WOOD

Figure 2. Colour reflectance from Dicranopteris linearis extracted through solvent extraction method (Methanol)

Colour Reflectance from Dicranopteris linearis extracted through solvent extraction method (Methanol/Acid)

ALUM IRON TIN TAWAS WOOD

Figure 3. Colour Reflectance from Dicranopteris linearis extracted through solvent extraction method (Methanol/Acid) Figures 1, 2 and 3 show the colour reflectance of dyed silk fabrics using Dicranopteris Linearis leaf dyes extracted through boiling and solvent extraction process. The same source of dye was mixed with different mordant to give different colours. For instance, fabrics dyed using iron as mordant gave the darkest colour in comparison with other mordants for both

dyes from Dicranopteris Linearis leaf. All results for colour reflectance were measured after soap at boil process. Colour fastness to washing Colour fastness to washing is the ability to retain its colour after washing. The rating of wash fastness is from 1 to 5 where rating of 1 is the worst and 5 is the best. Table 1 shows the rating of change in colour and staining for dyed silk fabrics using dyes from Dicranopteris Linearis plant through boiling and solvent extraction method. The ratings for staining on silk and cotton were 5. However, the ratings for change in colour were from 2/3 to 4 which means that there were changes in colour after washing. The results indicate that overall dyes from extraction using methanol and methanol acid as solvent has better resistance to change in colour than through boiling method.

Dyestuff

Mordant Alum Iron Tin Tawas Wood Ash Alum Iron Tin Tawas Wood Ash Alum Iron Tin Tawas Wood Ash

Dicranopteris linearis Leaf (Boiling)

Dicranopteris linearis Leaf (Methanol)

Dicranopteris linearis Leaf (Methanol/ Acid)

Colour fastness to washing Change in Staining on colour Silk Cotton 2/3 5 5 2 5 5 3 5 5 4 5 5 2/3 5 5 2/3 5 5 3/4 5 5 4 5 5 3 5 5 3/4 5 5 3/4 5 5 3/4 5 5 4 5 5 3/4 5 5 3/4 5 5

Table 1. Colour fastness to Washing Test on dyed silk fabrics (Dicranopteris linearis Leaf)

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