A Contest To Fulfil Consumers' Aspirations: World Retailing
A Contest To Fulfil Consumers' Aspirations: World Retailing
A Contest To Fulfil Consumers' Aspirations: World Retailing
he consumer is proving an elusive prey for retailers hunting for sales. Across the world, store groups are grappling with diverse consumer behaviours, the internet and business planning dominated by the eurozone crisis and the prospect of a slide back into recession. Consequently, retailers approach the crucial holiday spending season, which can account for a significant proportion of their profits, with trepidation. According to Richard Hyman, strategic retail adviser to Deloitte, the consultants, times are more challenging than in 2008, at the height of the financial crisis (see page 3). In 2008, it was about sentiment. It was an emotional reaction by consumers to [the collapse of] Lehman Brothers, he says. We didnt go into a consumer recession. We are going into it now. Metro, the worlds fourth-biggest supermarket and electricals chain by sales, warned on profits this month, after a weak start to the critical preChristmas shopping period across debt-ridden Europe. Carrefour, the worlds second-biggest supermarket chain by sales after the USs Walmart, has seen similar trends, amid volatile trading conditions in southern Europe and consumers cutting back on discretionary nonfood items. In the UK, consumers are cutting back on spending, as middle to lower income shoppers are squeezed by rising fuel and food prices and government austerity measures. By contrast, the US consumer has held up surprisingly well, says Ira Kalish, director of global economics at Deloitte, There is widespread expectation that this will continue, at last through the holiday season, says Mr Kalish. Whether it will continue beyond that is hard to know, because consumers have been spending faster than [their] income, so their savings rate has gone down. There is only so far that can go, unless there is an improvement in consumer incomes in 2012. It could be that consumer spending will then slow down.
Asian consumers have also continued to spend, with shoppers particularly drawn to luxury brands. But it is not just in shopping in physical stores that Asia offers potential. According to the Boston Consulting Group (BSG), Chinese consumers could become powerful online purchasers. It says that China, which already has the largest internet population in the world, also has the second-largest population of online shoppers 145m people. This compares with 170m in the US, and is more than double the number in Japan and five times that of the UK. BSG predicts exponential growth in online shopping in China through to 2015, with spending that could make Chinas ecommerce market worth more than RMB2,000bn, possibly surpassing the size of the US market. But despite Chinas potential, headwinds are gathering. Mr Kalish says that retailers have been boosted by rising Chinese incomes. However, the countrys economy is slowing down. Meanwhile, Walmart, the market leader, has suffered a series of high-profile problems in China, falling foul of authorities over the mislabelling of ordinary pork as organic (see page 4). It is still a good growth market. [But] for global retailers looking for growth opportunities, China is not what it used to be. They are starting to look elsewhere, says Mr Kalish. One market in the spotlight is India, although some global retailers expressed frustration at its decision to abandon plans to throw open its $450bn retail sector to foreign supermarkets, with Tesco branding it a missed opportunity. Mr Kalish says some countries of south-east Asia, such as Indonesia and Vietnam, are attracting retailers attention as is Turkey. There is also interest in Latin American countries such as Colombia and Peru, and some of the countries in Central America, such as Costa Rica. There is also growing interest in Africa, following Walmarts acquisition of a majority stake in Massmart, the South Africabased group, which has a presence in a dozen sub-Saharan countries. Indeed, African retail markets feature heavily in Deloittes and Planet Retails second Hidden Heroes report, which identifies the next generation of retail markets. They draw attention to Algeria,
Black Friday: the US consumer has held up surprisingly well amid global economic turmoil
Getty
Kazakhstan, Kenya, Morocco, Nigeria, Pakistan, Peru and Serbia, and two that featured in the first report: South Africa and Vietnam. All these markets are, or will soon be, on the radar of the worlds leading retailers, Deloitte and Planet Retail, the consultants, say. For global retailers, navigating existing and new markets will be crucial for their success. Christine Cross, chief retail and consumer adviser to PwC, the consultants, says companies expanding
I would say that you have to be great to look good. In the past, you only had to be good to look great
Richard Brasher, UK chief executive, Tesco
abroad need to have clear aspirations about which countries and markets to target, what return on capital they desire, where they see themselves in terms of market share and their risk appetites. Store groups can choose to grow organically, by opening one store or several to test a market, or by acquisition. They can own corporate stores, or enter into franchise arrangements. The latter is less risky but is often less profitable. Groups can even take a concession in an existing store, which is lower risk still, but also lower profit with less control of the brand.
So often people just want to plant a flag, without having a clear view of what a successful operation in an overseas market would look like, and what the investment will return, Ms Cross says. One important element is to obtain a rapid insight into that market. You need to acquire local knowledge quickly, she says. One way to do this is to team up with a local partner. This can give access to stores, or smooth the way to obtaining planning permission for new outlets. A partners reputation could also be a useful asset. It may be that, reputationally, you want to work with a known brand, particularly in Asia, rather than going in as a foreign interloper, she says. But she warns: If you do decide to have a partner, you need to choose them carefully. Kim Winser, the former senior Marks and Spencer executive who has led and supported a number of British companies in their international expansion, including M&S, Pringle, Aquascutum, Agent Provocateur and French Sole, says it is easier to take a strong brand into overseas markets. Retailers without a strong identity will be up against local competitors who are experts on their customers and their behaviour. As a retailer going abroad, it is quite a tough call, she says. Taking brands abroad is different. In that scenario you are playing on the DNA and personality of the brand. If customers relate to that, then you have got serious potential. Over the next decade or so, I believe the most exciting international developments will be with brands.
But companies should not veer from their brand identity to appeal to new markets. The most important thing is to remain true to your DNA. If you are a heritage brand, then you have to respect that heritage, but hopefully give it a really exciting contemporary feel, she says. When it comes to more established markets, having the right online strategy is crucial. Michael Jary, a partner at OC&C Strategy Consultants, estimates that in advanced economies, about 10 per cent of sales are made online. Traditional bricks-and-mortar retailers have already moved online, but some purely online retailers are now planning to add physical infrastructure. The interesting battle in online is between the pure plays and the multi-channel retailers, with both stores and an online presence, says Mr Jary. Keeping a tight rein on finances is essential for retailers but investing, even in difficult times, is also important to lay the foundations for success. Retailers say that despite pressures, consumers are still prepared to spend when they see a product that they want. This is underlined by the success of Apples iPad in a sluggish consumer-electronics market. According to Richard Brasher, chief executive of Tescos UK business: It is not that [consumers] have a complete aversion to spending money, but you better be right. I would say that you have to be great to look good. In the past, you only had to be good to look great.
The US
Too many shops, too few shoppers Page 2
Online business
Why social media can contain a threat if customer complaints are not dealt with correctly Page 3
Emerging markets
Walmarts lessons Page 4
But Christine Cross, chief retail and consumer adviser at PwC, the consultancy, says that as commodity prices soften, there are other factors driving the trend towards sourcing closer to home. The crisis in Europe and efforts to improve its manufacturing
prowess, are also contributing to the trend. You can now get production of denim out of Turkey, true knitwear out of Portugal and ceramics out of Italy cheaper than you could 10 years ago, because they are trying to increase their exports, she says. The countries that have been hit by the economic crisis have got some very cheap production, which is well worth relocating for. But the eurozone crisis is also injecting a fresh element of risk into the supply chain. Tesco, the worlds thirdbiggest supermarket chain by sales, said recently that it would refrain from entering into long-term contracts with European suppliers for the moment. We will not go long on
stock. We will not have instances where we have got long agreements until things settle down more, says Laurie McIlwee, Tescos finance director. Another problem for British retailers is currency. While commodity prices were racing ahead, they were able to offset some of the cost with a more favourable exchange rate. But sterling has been moving nearer the $1.50 mark for some time now. The sterling-dollar exchange rate matters because retailers pay Asian suppliers in dollars, although most hedge their exposure. Nevertheless, there is hope that softer commodity prices will feed though into lower inflation next year. Lord Wolfson, chief exec-
utive of Next, the UK-based fashion chain, has said he hopes inflationary pressures will soon begin to abate. I am expecting inflation to fall dramatically in the second quarter of next year, he said when Next reported its third quarter sales in November This means that prices for consumers should not rise any further, but it does not necessarily mean they will decline. Next said its prices were rising by 8 per cent in the autumn/winter season. However, it is expecting no further price rises in January. But Lord Wolfson cautioned: I would not want to be so brave as to say that prices will come down.
World Retailing
rom embracing new technology to knowing your consumer inside out, retail leaders need a abundance of skills to survive in the current climate. With the rise of internet shopping, retail leaders must be able to get to grips with the implications for their business. Michael Jary, a partner at OC&C Strategy Consultants, says chief executives need to be skilled in the use of technology to connect to the customer. Skills related to managing stores will become less relevant as more business moves online, he says. For some chief executives, the march of online shopping coupled with tough conditions on the high street means that part of their job will be to close stores. In these constrained times, the focus is on costcontrol, offering value and, in some cases, downright contraction. This requires a methodical and dispassionate approach with a touch of opportunism. A bull who splashes money around in these conditions is a reckless gambler, says Samuel Johar, chairman of Buchanan Harvey, a headhunter. Sally Elliott, head of retail at Korn/Ferry Whitehead Mann, the recruitment consultant, says leaders also need to be able to respond quickly, given the speed at which digital developments are altering the retail landscape. The main thing everyone is grappling with is what does it mean for stores, and for leaders, if your customers are much more demand-
The combination of difficult economic times and competition from online sales could mean that outlets will have to close
Bloomberg
ing in what they expect from retailers. It means the pace of leadership will change over time, she says. Korn/Ferry Whitehead Mann asked delegates at a Retail Leadership Forum in September dubbed the retail Davos what they thought the retail leader of the future would look like. They said that persons most important attribute would be the ability to respond quickly to change. But she cautions: Retail leaders need to make sure they are ahead of the curve, rather than simply reacting to trends. That is how they will capture market share and grow sales. Moira Benigson, the managing partner of MBS Group, the executive search firm, says: You have to embrace electronic commerce to be a retail leader
in the current climate. Generation X, who are the new retail leaders coming up, will have mastered technology already. Understanding the consumer has also never been more important. Sue Shipley, head of the retail practice at Odgers Berndtson, the executive search firm, says; If you dont understand your consumer, and you are not first of all clear about who it is you are selling to, there is a tendency in difficult times for people to move into territory that they are not familiar with, and their proposition then becomes fuzzy. Retailers need to be crystal clear about who their target customers are, and deliver rigorously to meet their needs. She adds: The balance of power has now shifted to
the consumer. If retailers are not in that day-today dialogue, really understanding what is in the consumers mind what it is that is going to motivate them to buy from you rather than your competitors you are dead in the water.
Somebody who does not live a luxurious life will not be a successful luxury retailer
Mr Johar says retail leaders must have an affinity with their customers. You usually find that somebody who doesnt live a slightly luxurious life, would not be a very successful luxury retailer. Sim-
ilarly, for supermarkets, if you have somebody who essentially lives a jet-set lifestyle, it is quite difficult for them to be a successful supermarket leader, he says. Fran Minogue, managing partner of Clarity, the executive search firm, also stresses that chief executives must keep in close contact with customers and staff in the current climate. Retail leaders must strike the right balance between setting long-term strategy and managing the business on a daily basis, as well as motivating and energising people right down to the tills. This means keeping it simple and focusing on just a few key performance indicators that everyone in the organisation can understand. It is also important to
keep in touch with people on an informal basis, and take the businesss temperature. Today in retail, you need to be out there as much as you can. You need to be on the front line, talking to staff, talking to customers in a lot of cases your staff are your customers and keeping as close as possible to the market, she says. But, according to Ms Benigson, the most important attribute for leaders at the moment is just to keep going and to keep their own and their staffs spirits up amid the turmoil on the high street. You have to be positive. You have got to wake up in the morning on the right side of the bed, and you have to think positively, and think of new ways of doing things. Most of all, you need bottle, she says.
In an interview, Mr Lewis identifies three factors that will work against any speedy reduction in excess retail space. One is that opening a store creates instant revenue, which matters greatly in a business where most executives still define success as sales growth and will pursue it even at the expense of profits. Second, Mr Lewis says that real estate brokers are always pushing retailers into toogoodtomiss deals for new leases. Third, plenty of retailers have brands that are seen as iconic, even if they fall into financial trouble. They tend to be a magnet for private equity groups that would much prefer to salvage a brand than an engineering company that no one has heard of.
Barney Jopson
Contributors
Andrea Felsted Senior Retail Correspondent Claer Barratt Retail Correspondent Barney Jopson US Retail Correspondent Louise Lucas Consumer Industries Editor Martin Brice Commissioning Editor Steven Bird Designer Andy Mears Picture Editor For advertising contact: Ian Edwards +44 020 7873 3272 ian.Edwards@ft.com or your usual representative
Richard Pennycook: The cash strapped are exhibiting very real behaviour changes to cope
World Retailing
etailers used to worry about their ecommerce strategy, but the rise of the smartphone has introduced additional words to their vocabulary. The term m-commerce is used to describe mobile internet applications, and f-commerce represents the added dimension of social networking sites such as Facebook, which some
If you want us to use social media to talk to you, you had better be ready to talk back
argue is the shop window of the 21st century when it comes to brand awareness. Consumers increasingly research their purchases online to obtain the best deals, so how retailers manage their social networking presence is of prime importance. With the notable exception of Asos, the online clothing retailer, few actually sell products through sites such as Facebook, though increasingly, f-commerce is the preferred channel for customer services.
However, surveys suggest that retailers are unable to manage the volume of communications from customers that come through the social networking medium. Research tracking US consumer expectations of social media carried out by Conversocial, which advises US and UK retailers on social media strategy, found that 51 per cent of respondents were using social media to communicate with corporations, and that 78 per cent believed this would become the dominant way to communicate. Produced in association with New York University, the research revealed that a third of consumers who had attempted to communicate with companies via social networking sites found they were ignored. Furthermore, 88 per cent of respondents said they would be less likely to do business with that retailer if their complaint went unanswered. The message to companies from their customers is clear: if you want us to use social media to talk to you, you had better be ready to talk back, says Josh March, chief executive of Conversocial. He warns that retailers who do not treat social media complaints seriously risk losing not just their current customers, but vast numbers of potential customers, who now have a window to see how you respond to or ignore your customers in full public view.
Alamy
realising that consumers will not pay more for goods purchased in-store. After it aligned prices, Comet, the UK electrical chain, reported a 12 per cent year-on-year fall in online sales, admitting that many customers had been viewing goods in store, then ordered them over the internet to take advantage of the price difference. The next stage, Mr Gaurav says, is to use point-of-sale data to forecast stock replenishment and set pricing strategies. Analysis of point-of-sale information can shed light on volatile buying patterns. If you can split that data into generational segments, different patterns emerge, and thats what retailers need to understand, he says. One example is how different age groups
approach grocery shopping. My mother typically goes once a month to stock up, I typically go at the weekends, because its when I have time, but younger people will buy on a day-to-day basis, even meal-by-meal, he notes. The opposing problems of excess inventory and stock shortages are a particular concern for clothing retailers, who can have a lead time of up to nine months if they are sourcing products from East Asia. In the UK, where high street clothing retailers suffer from endemic discounting, Aurora Fashions says point-of-sale software is behind a recent boost in sales and an improvement in its gross margin. The group, which operates the Oasis, Coast and Warehouse brands, has invested in software to provide greater visibility of its in-store stock, meaning popular items that have sold out on its websites can be despatched from stores. This technology enables much higher sell-through rates at full price, says Mike Shearwood, the chief executive. Technology can be used to calculate the impact of lost sales when products go out of stock, he says. It can also flag merchandise which is not moving fast enough. Burberry, the British luxury label, has been investing in electronic point-ofsale systems over the past five years, enabling much tighter control of worldwide stock movements. Analysts hope this will prevent a repeat of the gross margin erosion witnessed in the 2008 downturn, the after-effect of clearance of unsold stock. The economic crisis is forcing retailers to question their current practices, concludes Mr Gaurav. Sadly, were going to find many retail players today wont make it.
Retail does not cross borders easily and history tells of more failure than success
our Global Powers research shows that while the majority of these big names have been growing in recent years, the past decade or so shows they have not collectively increased their share of global retail spend. I believe this is highly significant and reflects a number of profound shifts in the global retail marketplace. This certainly does not mean retail is no longer hugely volume sensitive. Big is still beautiful, but the analysis shows that scale is not quite the potent force that it once was. While demand exceeded supply, speed to market and scale may not have always been barriers to entry, but they were massively advantageous. Todays global consumer has more choice than ever, and generally less spending power. He, and predominantly she, demands more than just low prices and convenience
World Retailing
hinas potential as a land of shoppers was spotted long before Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Tiffany began erecting megastores in its biggest cities. An Englishman, writing in 1840, noted: If we could only persuade every person in China to lengthen his shirttail by a foot, we could keep the mills of Lancashire working round the clock. While Lancashires mills may be long gone, the willingness of the Chinese consumer to buy shirts, bling and everything in between is propping up the worlds retailers. For the moment, China is extremely into very highend, pricey goods and the complete opposite, says Claus-Dietrich Lahrs, chief executive and chairman of Hugo Boss, the luxury menswear group. The group, part-owned by Permira, a private equity firm, lifted sales 73 per cent in the first nine months of 2011 in China and claims to be in more or less all the big cities with a population above 5m. The story is repeated at a host of luxury brands: Burberry owes the run-up in its share price (and subsequent fall-off) to China, even though the country
makes up just a 10th of sales. Louis Vuitton, which once had a significant proportion of its sales in Japan, now has its sights trained on the Chinese, both in the domestic market and, as with the Japanese before them, when shopping abroad. Analysts reckon the strong growth rates are resilient. HSBC estimates sales of global luxury brands in China have risen more than 30 per cent a year over the past four years, far outpacing income growth and suggesting it may keep growing in a slowdown. In March, McKinsey, the consultancy, released a report that forecast spending on luxury goods by Chinese consumers would grow 18 per cent a year to about $27bn by 2015, when the market will surpass Japan, currently the biggest. Nor is it just a question of fancy clothes and handbags. Analysts at IGD say the Chinese grocery market will be worth more than 1,000bn in 2015, up from 597bn in 2010, outstripping the USs projected 843bn. Spurred by these dynamics, international supermarkets, led by Walmart of the US and Frances Carrefour, have charged in. Every multinational in the world is rushing into China to try to offset falling sales, but the reality is there are probably more losers than winners, says Shaun Rein, head of China Market Research in Shanghai and author
Building bridges: misunderstanding the Chinese shopper led to B&Q being seen as more expensive than local peers
Getty
of the forthcoming book The End of Cheap China. Walmarts global revenue of $420bn makes its Chinese income of $7.5bn seem small, but the retailer is expanding there at a pace of 17 per cent a year. Moreover, Chinas retail sector is ripe for consolidation and both Walmart and Carrefour stand to benefit when it happens. Tesco, a relative latecomer, has just under 100 hypermarkets and lifestyle malls and has set up a joint venture to develop retail spaces. Yet the going is far from smooth. In the third quarter, Carrefour reported a slight dip in same-store sales in China, while Walmart has fallen foul of authorities in Chongqing over allegations that ordinary pork was mislabelled as organic. The fallout saw 13 Walmart stores in the south-west city closed for a fortnight and two store managers arrested. Walmart subsequently announced that its chief executive for China and its top executive for human resources in the country were resigning for personal reasons. The Chinese market also
remains fragmented. Its top five chains have a combined market share of less than 10 per cent, compared with 76 per cent in neighbouring Hong Kong (where antitrust authorities bellyache over the concentration). But even in southeast Asian nations, the proportions are about a quarter to a third. Foreigners are also tripping up in the way they approach China. Dale Preston, managing director for
dowdy, to B&Q, the DIY store, gaining a perception of being more expensive than its local peers. These all stem from a misunderstanding of the Chinese shopper, he says. M&S, for example, he sees as targeting older women, when it is younger females who have money to spend. Those, such as Gap, in the middle, between luxury and cheap brands miss out. Everybody is talking about the great middle class growth story, he says. But, here, there is no static middle class. People would be embarrassed to be viewed as middle class. They see themselves more as on the way to riches. Other difficulties include expansion. Having almost saturated top-tier cities such as Shanghai, retailers and manufacturers are launching into lower-tier cities, with big populations but lower wealth levels. Thats where western brands are starting to struggle, because there are not enough customers willing to buy these brands in those cities, says Melvin Glapion, head of business intelligence at Kroll, the risk consultancy.
Another is that for all Chinas buoyant growth, shakiness from lower manufacturing growth to shuttered factories is emerging. Consumers are cutting back and hunting for bargains. Nielsens Mr Preston says high inflation, albeit now easing, has changed the way the Chinese shop. In addition to cutting back on luxury goods, meals out and travel, consumers are increasing the shopping they do at cheap online sites, he says. Nor are the rich averse to a bargain, though their shopping is more likely to be done overseas. Buying designer goods abroad brings cachet, particularly if the item is only available in Paris, New York or Tokyo at a lower price, given high taxes at home. This is one factor behind the metamorphosis of Hong Kong from eclectic shoppers playground to glitzy array of big brand names. But none of these niggles is enough to deter hopeful retailers, particularly as their traditional stamping grounds of Europe slide into a deeper funk and the jury is out on US recovery.
European peers Walmart has to obey the strict mandates of the US SarbanesOxley Act on accounting and corporate governance. It is also bound by the Foreign Corrupt Practices Act, the US antibribery legislation. In the Bric countries where Walmart does have retail stores, the company forecasts its Brazil business will grow at 1.4 times the pace of the rest of its international operations over the next five years and that China will grow at 2.5 times the pace. It turned its first profit in China only in 2008 a dozen years after it entered the market. For a longer version of this story, go to www.ft.com/retailing2011