Crems

Department of
Cosmetology and
Aromology
Lecture 4
COSMETIC CREAMS
Lector Dr. Yudina Yulia

CREAMS
 Creams are a type of emulsion in which
two liquids that do not mix together, like
water and oil, are made into a stable
dispersion by making one the dispersion
phase and dispersing it through the other
which acts as the dispersion medium.
 Their consistency varies between liquids
and solids.
CLASSIFICATION
 Creams are classified according to their

functions. They are:
 1. Cleansing and Cold Creams.
 2. Foundation and Vanishing Creams.
 3. Night and Massage Creams.
 4. Hand and Body Creams.
 5. Multifunctional Creams
Purpose/function. Product type
 Moisturizing and softening action Emollient creams

(Nutrient Cream, Nourishing Cream, Moisture
Cream, Vanishing Cream, Night Cream, in which
the emulsion type, amount of oil and humectants
are varied to cater to the season, skin type,
preference)
 Stimulate circulation, soften skin Massage Cream
 Cleansing, makeup removal Cleansing Cream
 Under makeup cream, makeup base Sunscreen
Cream, Suntan Cream, Hair Remover, Hair Cream,
Deodorant Cream, Shaving Cream, Horny Layer
Softening Cream
Purposes and Functions of
Different Creams
 The main functions of creams are to

maintain the moisture balance and keep
the skin moist and supple through the
supply of water, humectants and oils. In
addition to creams which moisturize the
skin and make it more supple, there are
many others which have the additional
functions of stimulating the circulation,
cleansing the skin and removing makeup.
Cleansing Creams: They are used for the purpose of
removing makeup, surface grime (layer of dirt on skin) and
secretions of skin from the face and throat respectively.
Properties:
• They are easy to apply.
• They spread easily on the skin.
• They are pleasant in appearance.
• They cause less irritation to the skin.
• They should melt or liquefy when applied on to the skin.
• They should produce flushing action on skin and its pore openings.
• They should form an emollient film on the skin after application.
• They should not make skin dry which happens in case, when the skin is washed with water
and soap.
• They should remove chemicals of facial makeup effectively. They dissolve the greasy
binding materials which hold the pigment and finally remove them.
• They should remove solidified oil, sebum, sebum plaques and surface oil layer from the skin.
• They also help in softening, lubricating and protecting skin apart from cleansing
purposes.
Formulations of
Different Creams
Cream O/W type

Oil-phase proportion(%) – 5-30%
Water-phase proportion(%) -60-95%
Cream W/O type

Oil-phase proportion(%) – 40-70%
Water-phase proportion(%) -15-35%
Anhydrous oily type

Oil-phase proportion(%) – 100%
Reactions level of Creams

* epidermal Creams
(synthetic oil: Vaseline oil, perfume oil)
* dermal Creams
(natural /vegetable oil: corn oil, jojoba oil,
olive oil, olive oil, almond oil, cocoa butter,
macadamia nut oil, avocado oil, sunflower
oil, evening primrose oil. )
Formulations of
Different Creams
Emulsifiers proportion(%) 4-10%

1 type: emulsions wax, emulsifier N 1,
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
2 type: MGD, MSG, synthetic Alcohols C-16-
C-21
Correlation of
Emulsifiers
Cream O/W type : 3/7, 2/8, 4/6
Cream W/O type ; 7/3, 8/2, 6/4
Main ingredients of creams
 aqueous ingredients
 thickening agent
 surfactants
 preservatives
 perfumes
 pharmaceutical agents
Formulations of
Different Creams
 aqueous ingredients proportion(%) – 3-

10%
 Functions: Good feeling on use.
Dissolution. Humectants effect
 Glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene
glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, polyethylene
glycol (300, 400, 1500, 4000) and other
polyhydric alcohols, sorbit etc.
Formulations of
Different Creams
 thickening agent proportion(%) – 1,5-
5%
 Functions: Good feeling on use
Humectants effect
 Sodium alginate, beeswax, paraffin,
cellulose derivatives, pectin, carboxyvinyl
polymer, acrylate polymers, sodium
magnesium silicate
§ Bioactive agents proportion(%) -
1-5%
§ Antioxidants: dibutyl-hydroxytoluene, vitamin E,
etc.
 Buffers: citric acid, sodium citrate, lactic acid,
sodium lactate, etc.
 Pharmaceutical agents: vitamins, UV
absorbents, amino acids, whitening agents,
etc.
Formulations of
Different Creams
 Perfumes proportion(%) – 1%
 Geraniol, Linalool, etc
 Colorants proportion(%) – 0,1%
 permitted colors, pigments
 Preservatives proportion(%) – 1%
 parabens, sorbic acid, isopropylmethyl
phenol, germabene, etc.
 Purified water: ion exchange water
Formulations of
Different Creams
 Surfactant – emulsifier
 Glycerin monostearate, POE sorbitan
fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid
esters, POE alkyl ether, POE-hardened
castor oil ester, fatty acid soaps, sodium
alkyl sulfate, etc.
General manufacturing methods
for creams
 To make the water phase (is heated to 70°C ): water,
humectants, preservatives, and other water phase
ingredients
 To make the oil phase (is heated to 70°C ): oils,
emulsifications, thickening agent
 To mix water phase and oil phase
 To emulsification (to 70°C ) - to make the emulsion
 Gradual cooling (to 45°C)
 Addition of bioactive agents
 Adjustment pH
 Addition of perfume and colorants into the cream
 Qualitative control
 To put into containers
Qualitative control
 Appearance, color, fragrance
 pH (5-9)
 Thermo stability
 Colloid stability
 Bulk quantity of Glycerin
 Bulk quantity of water and volatile compound
Types of cream
Protecting cream for oily skin
Component of cream Main functions Amount
added
Perfume oil Oil-phase 15%

Emulsions wax Emulsifier 1 type 3%
MGD Emulsifier 2 type 7%
Glycerin Aqueous ingredient 4%
Paraffin Thickening agent 3%
Vitamin A Bioactive Component 1%
Vitamin E Antioxidant 1%
Perfumes Delicate aroma 1%
Types of cream
Protecting cream for oily skin
Component of cream Main functions Amount added
Germabene Preservatives 1%
Purified water Water-phase 64%

for creams
 To make the water phase (is heated to 70°C ): water,

Glycerin, Germabene.
 To make the oil phase (is heated to 70°C ): Perfume
oil, Emulsions wax, MGD.
 To heating with continuous mixing the Paraffin
 To mix water phase and oil phase and Paraffin
 Addition of Vitamin A and Vitamin E
 Addition of perfume into the cream
Massage cream
 Oil component: Solid paraffin 5.0

 Beeswax 10.0
 Petrolatum 15.0
 Liquid paraffin 41.0
 Humectant: 1,3-butylene glycol 4.0
 Surfactants: Glycerin monostearate 2.0
 POE (20) sorbitan
monolaurate 2.0
 Alkali: Borax 0.2
 Preservative: 1
 Antioxidant: 1
 Perfume: 1
 Purified water: 20.8
for creams
 To make the water phase (is heated to 70°C ):
water, humectants, preservatives, and other water
phase ingredients
 To make the oil phase (is heated to 70°C ): oils,
emulsifications, thickening agent
 To mix water phase and oil phase
 Addition of bioactive agents
 Adjustment pH (citric acid)
 Addition of perfume and colorants into the cream
 THANK YOU FOR
ATTENTION!

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Department of

Lector Dr. Yudina Yulia

 Creams are classified according to their

 Moisturizing and softening action Emollient creams

 The main functions of creams are to

Cream O/W type

Cream W/O type

Anhydrous oily type

Emulsifiers proportion(%) 4-10%

 aqueous ingredients proportion(%) – 3-

Perfume oil Oil-phase 15%

Component of cream Main functions Amount added

Purified water Water-phase 64%

 To make the water phase (is heated to 70°C ): water,

 Oil component: Solid paraffin 5.0

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