PERFUMES

Olfactory organ
 The odor detecting sense organ of the nose is known as the
olfactory organ, and in the human this takes the form of two,
richly innervated membranes each of about 2.5 sq. cm. in
area.

 These small thin delicate structures lie on either side of the

nasal septum, just below eye level, and are thus situated
deep within the nasal cavity, well protected from the
possibility of mechanical damage by the bony casing of the
rigid part of the nose
Olfactory organ

 Histologically, these membranes are highly

specialized and localized region of mucous
epithelium by which the nasal cavity is overlain
and unlike other mucous area of the nose , and
colored by the presence of yellowish brown
pigment.
Olfactory organ
 To reach an olfactory filament a molecule must first diffuse from
the incoming air stream of the nose to the olfactory organ, where
it encounters the moisture film by which the organ is covered.
 The molecule must first survive the bombardment by evaporating
water and this only happens if the molecule at least has small
extent water solubility, then penetrate the much denser wall of
mucus.
Origin of perfume
 Historical perspective:

- The burning of incense for the purpose of religious

worship and domestically for the enjoyment of its
fragrance is today wide spread almost around the
world. In India and Asia the manufacture of incense is
one of the oldest industries have origin in dating to
1500 b.c. or even earlier.
The world perfume

- The derivation of the world “perfume”

came from the Latin expression per
-fumum or per fumare meaning "through
smoke" in reference to burring of incense
for its fragrance and religious symbolism.
Odor classification:
 Odor Families
- An odor family may be defined as a class of odors
the members of which are related to one another by
having certain features and frequently applications,
in common.
E.g. odors of the floral family are those of living
fragrant flowers and not those of aromatic
materials derived from, or related in odor to fragrant
flowers.
Odor Families
 Floral family: Odors of flowers, which can be used as fragrance
elements of perfumes. E.g. Jasmine, Gardenia, Lilac, Orange
flowers, Narcissus, Rose.

 Woody family: the most important woody notes are those

recalling so-called “precious wood”, these are woods valued for
their visual and in some cases textural, beauty and in perfumery
for the odors of their essential oils. E.g. Cedar woods the odor of
typical East Africa. , Or Virginian cedar wood oil: woody and
slightly earthy.
- Rose wood, Sandalwood: the odor of East India. Sandal wood is
soft, sweet, woody, and slightly balsamic
Odor Families
 Animalic family: The family of aromatic notes traditional
to perfumery encompasses the odor of aromatic extracts
of animal origin, e.g. civet and musk.
Usage in perfumery of natural musk is confined to fine
fragrance, but even there, it is of extremely rare
occurrence as a perfume ingredient.
- The musk trade has clearly declined over the past 50
years as a result of the depletion of the Musk deer
population. It seems amazing that anyone would want to
go around and smell of cats, yet some fragrances do
carry this note and its presence is evidently highly
appreciated.
Odor Families
 Lather: the lather fragrance is not truly animalic in the sense
of being natural animal smell because the skin and hides used
in the making of lather has suffered the effects of chemical
treatment during the curing and tanning process necessary to
confer upon them the qualities demanded of natural leather.

 Balsamic family: Notes described as balsamic are typified by

vanilla, vanillin, and vanilla smelling products such as benzoin
and balsam of Peru, which like vanilla, contain vanillin.
- The flavors of custard powder and vanilla ice cream owe
most of its odor to vanillin not vanilla. The odor of true vanilla
may be readily experienced by allowing a drop of genuine
Vanilla flavoring essence to evaporate from the back of the
hand.
 Odor Families
 Herbaceous family: Typical of the perfumer’s concept of
herbaceous note is the odor characteristic of sage. E.g. Lavender,
Rosemary.
- Rosemary: The odor of rosemary oil is different from the odor of
truly natural essential oil, produced by rubbing the leaves of the
rosemary plant which is much more mellow.

 Mint family: mintiness of odor is strongly associated with spearmint

and peppermint, although in the case of the matter the minty
character in overlaid with the fresh and cooling odor of levo-
menthol. . EG peppermint, spearmint.

 Green family: Cress, watercress, cucumber, grassy, leafy.

 Fruity family: e.g. apple, apricot, banana, peach, pineapple, and

strawberry.
Odor Families
 Coniferous family: Pine, resinous.
 Marine family: Amber, beach, costal ozonic, seaweed
 Spicy family: Celery, cinnamon. The odor of the dried inner bark
of Ceylon cinnamon is readily available in the form of powder.
- Clove: the true smell of clove is appreciated by cushioning a
clove or two with pestle and mortar. Or by pressing a clove with
thumbnail.
- Cumin, ginger, nutmeg, pepper.
 The perfumery mix:
 1) Functionality:
What is the function of the fragrance of a product? Either to cover up
a negative message likes poor base odor in soap, or to counteract a
malodor such as that in dishwashing products.
Is it to provide some lingering presence or vanish completely after
use? For example no odor is required at last stage of dishwashing
cycle, however for skin substantive toilet soap a good residual odor
maybe essential.

 2) Strength & impact:

What impact is required of fragrance? A very strong high impact
perfume is essential for freshening the air of a large room.
The perfumery mix:
 3) Substantively:
In case of soap perfume the desire maybe to leave a very little odor on
skin but in another product the wish maybe to have a pronounced skin
substantive note.
With hair and fabric care products the issue of fiber substantively and
daily-long residual odor maybe of critical importance to product’s “in-
use” performance message.

 4) Delivery and physical form:

The product could take the form of aerosol or pump spray.
 Things To Be Taken In
CONSIDERATION
 Quality assurance:
New products need quality assurance in order to make
sure they comply with the corresponding standards,
and to avoid complications of adulteration.
Quality assurance and the detection of adulteration
need great skills. This requires good instrumentation
such as capillary gas chromatography and possibly
with a coupled mass spectrometer.
Also good manufacturing practice (GMP) in storage,
production and finishing area is important.
Further, to assure that cross-contamination does not
take place in compounding.
Also stock rotation (to use the old material first).
Quality assurance
 Thermal Stability:
- Destruction of perfume molecules is proportionally related to increase
in temperature.
- Accelerated storage test, where a perfumed product is subjected to
temperature far higher than it will be ever called upon to suffer under
normal conditions. Within short time perhaps of only 2-3 weeks can be
extrapolated, as a measure of the stability of the product and its
fragrance over the much longer period of its shelf life, in the much
cooler environment of its storage and use.
- Heat is frequently used during manufacture but the temperature must
be closely controlled to maximize the efficiency of the process without
causing decomposition of the product.
Photosensitivity:
- Sunlight and to a lesser extent the ordinary forms
of artificial light, are in general harmful to aromatic
materials, and perfumed products of all kinds, which
must therefore be protected from light at all times.

 Deodorants and Antiperspirants:

Perfumes for these product categories need to be
completely free from any possibility of irritant or
sensitizing activity towards the skin, while imparting
fresh and cleanly fragrance at levels sufficiently
modest not to interfere with any personal perfume
being used at the same time.
Products in which perfume serves a
:functional purpose

 A- PERSONAL FRAGRANCES:
Most fragrances for personal use are presented as
dilutions of perfume compounds in suitable solvents, as
dispersions in specially formulated creams, or stick form.
The ideal solvent for use in liquid products
:should have the following attributes

- Good solvent for all aromatic materials within a temperature

range of –10 to +40., Colorless, preferably mobile, liquid,
Odorless, Non-flammable, Suitably high volatility, In all
respects non-toxic and safe to use
Non-reactive with perfume ingredients
Lifting agent for top notes
Resistant to atmospheric oxidation
Thermally stable in sunlight
Non-staining
Miscible with water in all proportions
Non-foaming in water, on shaking
Readily available at low cost
Good skin feel (not too oily, not too dry)
Environmentally acceptable
No known solvent fulfils all of these requirements, those solvents which are
in use representing acceptable compromise between theoretical ideals and
practical feasibility.

 Solvents
- Alcohol:
Denatured alcohol of high quality and 96% or 100% nominal
ethanol content is, currently, still the solvent of choice for
most personal fragrances, having the disadvantages only of
flammability, toxicity if abused and moderate drying effect
upon the skin.
- Ethanol is reactive with fragrance materials such as
aldehydes and many esters but since such interactions are
well known and lead to formation of products of acceptable
odor they do not give rise to problems.

- The presence of ethanol in a perfume product may be

objectionable to persons of Islamic faith.
The two most popular personal
fragrance are extrait, and toilet waters.

 Extrait perfumes:
These are known to consumers simply as “perfumes”, and
are the strongest of alcoholic perfumes containing, usually,
from 15% to 30% of perfume compound dissolved in
perfumery grade alcohol, the remainder being water. Very
small but effective proportions of an anti-oxidant and a
sunscreen are usually incorporated to extraits to retard the
inevitable, eventual deterioration of the perfume.

 Toilet waters:
The strength of a toilet water is lower, with respect to both
perfume compound and alcohol, than that of an extrait
perfume.
The following table shows the normal concentrations
:of perfume compound and alcohol strength

% Alcohol strength % Perfume compound

80-90 8-15 Parfum de toilette

80-90 8-15 Eau de parfum

80 4-8 Eau de toilette

70 3-5 Eau de cologne

80 3 Eau fraiche

60 1-3 Splash cologne

 Men’s fragrances are usually eau de toilette strength.
As alcohol exerts a drying effect upon the skin through its solvent
action on skin’s natural moisturizers and so do toilet waters. There
are two ingredients to counteract this dehydrating effect: emollients,
such as light, non-volatile oils to retard water loss from the skin, and
humectants, such as glycerin and propylene glycol.

 Delivery systems for alcoholic fragrances include pump sprays and

pressurized packs, or aerosols. All products in aerosol form must
now be environmentally harmless by containing no cfcs propellant.
A- PERSONAL FRAGRANCES:

 Volatile silicones as perfume solvents:

Though atoms of the element silicon do not possess chain- and
ring- forming properties like those of carbon, molecular structures
formed by silicon and oxygen. in certain arrangements. give rise to
a family of useful products the “silicones”. Among which include
solvents, oils, fat-like, waxy and rubbery materials, water-
repellents, anti-foaming agents and surfactants.

 Of liquid silicones, very few are volatile, and most of these are
odorless, with low flammability, freedom of toxicity and resistance
to deterioration. They are, however, of extremely low polarity.
There is another problem with volatile silicones, which is that they
exert no “lifting” action upon the top notes of perfumes.
On the credit side, the skin feel of silicones is excellent.
A- PERSONAL FRAGRANCES:
 Masculine fragrances:
Most fragrances for men take the form of splash colognes and
other bathtime preparations, after- or pre-shave lotions and anti-
perspirants and deodorants.

 Cream perfumes:
Personal fragrances in the form of cream are almost always
emulsions of the oil-in-water type which are applied to the skin by
means of an applicator integral with the cap of the container.

 Oily perfumes:
Oily perfumes are simple solutions of perfume compound in a
suitable fixed oil which is resistant to degradation, a good solvent
for perfume oil and not too greasy.
Products in which perfume serves a
:functional purpose
 B- Air fresheners and space fragrances:
The so-called “burning oils” are usually oily
perfumes intended for evaporation from small
troughs placed on a hot surface.
Perfumed candles emit fragrance by heating the
pool of molten wax beneath the flame, and here
thermostability of the perfume should be ensured.
Air fresheners and space
fragrances:
 Gel type air fresheners may be used on
water, or on a suitable solvent.

 A convenient form of “instant effect” air

freshener is the aerosol-type product which
should, ideally, kill malodors and leave the air
fresh and fragrant immediately after use.