Byzantium - Autonomous G

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BYZANTIUM

MEN :- outer upper

• Sleeve and garments cut in one


• Sleeved Dalmatica belted below waistline or about
hip - at first
• Then worn over tunica – high neckline with slit
down front length to below knee or to instep.
MEN :- outer upper

Segmentum
Colobium- similar to greek
Decoration worn on sleeve or
kolobus made of wool/linen
tunic/dalmatica, embroidered
MEN :- outer upper

Tunica talaris- long sleeved, Tunica palmata- Purple and gold


long girded tunica embroidered ceremonial tunica
MEN :- outer upper
• Tunica with decoration at neckline – middle class – 5&6
centuries
• Simple tunic buttoned at neck and belted – middle class

Latus clavus-
stripes about 3
inches wide

Angustus clavus- purple or red


stripes about 1and a half inch.
MEN :- outer lower

Hosa – hose/covering for leg Bracco/braies – former loose-fitting


leg covering or hose later close-
fitting with/without cross gathering
MEN :- outer lower

Drawers/ Trousers – leg covering resembling national cotumes


worn by medes, persians, parthians and phrygians.
MEN :- under

Chemise – undergarment with long sleeve that showed beneath


sleeve of outer garment.
MEN :- Cloaks and Over garments

Toga - Long piece of fabric draped over the shoulders in


one of several ways. It was usually worn over some kind
of tunic or other undergarment.
MEN :- Cloaks and Over garments

Toga picta - official robe of emperor purple toga of fine woolen


fabric.
MEN :- cloaks and overgarments

Tablion- very elaborate


oblong decoration
embroidered in red and
gold on the back and front
of paludamentum

Paludamentum- mantle/rich material.


MEN :- cloaks and overgarments

Semi circular cloak.


MEN :- cloaks and overgarments

Abolla .
Red or rectangular military cloak
Chasuble- round/oval shaped
resembling chlamys made of silk.
garment with a hole for the head
MEN :- cloaks and overgarments

Pallium.
Himation of
greeks (mantle)
Cape/ cope.
MEN :- Hair
• Cut medium short and brushed
away from crown of head
• Bob.
• Hair at the back often long and
turned under
• Beard rare before 9th century
• Neatly trimmed beard and
moustache after 9th century
• Tonsure – manner of shaving the
head as a mark of order
MEN :-
Headdress
• Petasus, cucullus, phrygian cap.
• Cowl – hood of a monks gown
attached to the back of the collar.
• Fillet/gold circlet.
• Diadem of double strands of
pearls and a jewel
• Low metal circlet- developing
into crown with ropes of pearl
hanging over each ear.
• Imperial crown about 5” high.
MEN :- footwear

• Openwork red boot.


• Sandal with buckle at ankle
• Slipper with toe pointed
• Real shoe of soft fabric/leather
• Heelless
• Boot
• Hose and shoes with ankle strap
• Tall red leather boot
MEN :- footwear

Pedule – short hose usually turned down at knee


MEN :- Accessories

Reliquary – pendant of
Sudarium – hand kerchief- gold/enamel containing a
silk and gold embroided. relic
MEN :- Accessories

Stola

lorum – long narrow scarf


MEN :- Accessories
• Mappa –large piece of cloth used to
give signal for games/ used as table
napkin
• Scepter – ornamentated staff – stick
• Knife
• Glove of fur/leather
• Pouch/wallet
• Waist belt of gold
• Orb – celestial sphere often
sumounted by a cross.
MEN :- Jewellery
• Heavy jewelled collar
• Earring
• Finger rings
• Brooch
• Filigree decoration
• Gold, emerald, ruby, sapphire,
diamond, pearls etc.
MEN :- Typical colours
• Black
• Grey
• White
• Brown
• Green
• Blue
• Red
• Plum violet
• Royal purple – emperor and subjects
• Coloured circular decoration on top of each sleeve
• White pedule by lower class
MEN :- Typical materials
• Cloth of silk
• Velvet
• Tapestry
• Brocade
• Cloth with embroidery
• Linen
• Wool
• Cotton
• Complex weaving stylized pattern
MEN :- Typical materials

Taffeta – stiff silk cloth used Sarcenet – fine thin silk cloth
as lining of rich mantle. originating in the orient
MEN :- Typical materials

Damask – silk or linen cloth with a figured satin weave

Make- up
None
WOMEN :- Outer Upper & outer lower

Stola – (traditional garment of roman women resembling


toga/pallium worn by Men) high neckline, tight, long
sleeve
WOMEN :- Outer Upper & outer lower
• Sleeve and body of dress cut in one
• Fitted and unbelted
• Augustus clavus
• Latus clavus
• Dalmatica
• Tunica worn under dalmatica
• One or more stolas – worn with
knee length palla (shawl)
• Sleevless overgarment reaching to
knee and girded with jewelled belt
• Wide-sleeved tunic over close
fitting sleeves.
Under
• High- necked, long sleeved chemise
(undergarment with long sleeves)
• Visible beneath tunic/white stola

Cloaks and overgarments

Palla – shawl like garment


Cloaks and overgarments

• Small scarf
• Rectangular shawl
• Cape/chasuble (round/oval
in shape, with a hole for the
neck)
• Semi-circular cloak fastened
on right shoulder.
• Hooded cloak
Hair

• Hairdress resembling that of roman women


• Hair often covered by turban
• Two long braids with an extra lock braided closely
behind the ear.
• Metal ornaments and pearls as decoration
• Rolled pompadour (women hairstyle in which the hair is
turned back off the forehead in a roll
• Sometimes frizzed- small, tight curls
Headdress
• Oriental (of a pearl/other jewel) type of headdress
• A circular roll over skull cap
• Large rectangular veil
• Veil hang from jewelled band around head
• Hair concealed by turban- colour according to caste.
• Diadem
• Veil secured by fillet
• Chinese influence in hats
• Hair ornaments oriental in style
• Triangular shaped gold, net/ white veil.
• White cap worn by lower class
Headdress
Footwear

• Similar to that worn by men


• Slipper
• Transition between sandal and shoes.
• Red shoe worn by women of high rank.
• Real shoes
• Low cut shoes with strap over ankle
Accessories

• Sash over dalmatica.


• Sudarium carried in left hand

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