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Helpful Harrie

@helpfulharrie / helpfulharrie.tumblr.com

This blog is no longer maintained. While shared content should still hold up, posts written by me on this blog were written when I was much younger and I cannot guarantee the quality of the advice.

fat bodies, fat anatomy, and how body fat tends to work should be taught as standardly as skinny anatomy and how muscles work in art courses. fat bodies are not an outlier. fat bodies are not a minority and theyre not abnormal or wrong. fat bodies are normal and they belong in art teaching spaces as commonly as other anatomy, because fat bodies ARE normal anatomy. people have diverse bodies and there will never be a single body type that encompasses the "normal body type"

tldr; fat anatomy should be taught as a staple in art courses just like any other anatomy. this is fact <3

ive gathered various links to refs so that people who see this can actually access helpful info on how to draw fat people. first and foremost though, using references will always be the biggest help :)

(please reblog this version instead)

How I Study Anatomy

Everyone says NEVER TRACE!! THAT'S ART THEFT! Ok but we can do a little crime in the name of Learning.

Trace to learn, not to earn.

I like to take my own photos, but you can study whatever you want. Link back to original photos, and don't post copied artwork unless the artist is dead, cool with it, or both.

As always with learning, start every sketch with the intent to throw it away (trash for paper, quitting without saving for digital) This takes the pressure off and lets you make Bad Art, which is very important.

So let's make Bad Art of a Deer because I happen to have one handy

Start with a photo of your subject in a nice/neutral pose with all four feet visible. (so not like me)

Freehand copy it. Try not to stylize, focusing instead of matching proportions and pose. Don't get too detailed!

It's ok if your art looks terrible and has broken legs. I've drawn LOTS of deer so I have a leg up. Everyone's art sucks in their own eyes and here's where mine went wrong:

Either lasso-distort (recommended for beginners) or redraw a copy of your first sketch with your reference behind it (scaled to match the main body of your sketch)

Put the original and modified sketches together and compare the differences. Write it down if you want. This shows you where your eyes saw things the wrong size, so you can correct for that next time.

After learning about both deer and yourself, try freehand copying again.

Marvel at your newfound knowledge and skill!

but there's always room for improvement

You can stop here and move on to your real drawing, Or do another freehand-fix-compare cycle. I actually overcorrected my "draws heads too big" and veered into "heads too small."

Another note on tracing: Learning HOW to trace is more important than anything you could learn By tracing. Draw the Anatomy, not the outline. In real life, things don't have outlines, they have bones.

These are from the same shoot which is extra useful for consistency. The lines are minimal and follow where the animals joints are, and only important parts are drawn.

You won't know what Important Parts means right off the bat, which is where in-depth study comes in. You need to do learn the hard parts to do the easy parts right.

Next up: how to study bones and muscles.

How to study Bones and Muscles

"Study the anatomy study the anatomy" but they never tell you HOW. It's not "read a book," It's more like flailing around wildly and crashing your browser from too many tabs.

This is going to be about How to Make a bones and muscle chart. Because even if your art sucks, you learn so much more by doing than by seeing.

References I gathered: X X X X X X X X

Get Set up. Get a photo, like above, but it doesn't have to be the same photo. And now... gather reference.

We'll start with bones. Search up "[animal] skeleton" and get photos or super scientific illustration. Add in things like "top view" to spice it up.

Next, search "[animal] skeleton sketchfab." This pulls up 3D models that you can rotate in your browser. Remember that these are art and the anatomy is only as good as the artist, so pick a good one.

Time for bone!

The spine is the most important, and in a lot of animals it will surprise you. Draw it in over your photo and then add spikes because skeletons are punk. These are not scientific and I didn't count them because their number doesn't matter to art. So you better be referencing from scientists and not me!

The rest of the bones and some notes. These are my notes to myself about things I want to remember. My personal discoveries in anatomy that made my art better. You can make the same notes but also make sure you have your own thoughts on there as well. that's how you help yourself the best. Be as detailed or vague as you want.

Same deal with muscle. Here are my personal notes to myself. Label stuff that is important to you. I actually grouped a bunch of muscles together based on what is visible from the outside. Muscles are way more complicated than this, but Baby's First Anatomy Chart gets to be simple.

This is good enough for me because I have intimate knowledge of the other muscles working under and over these ones. Feel free to add as many or as few muscles as you like. You chart your own course.

This is very VERY much not an anatomical chart. I'm sure there's nerds out there pulling their hair out looking at this. But listen, it works for art!

And you know the wildest part about this?

I don't need to look at it to use it. The act of making your own anatomy chart puts that knowledge in your brain. Like how you can make "cheat sheets" even for tests that don't allow them - the act of making the sheet helps you remember what you struggle with most.

And after all that complexity? Your simplification will be based on Real Knowledge and you'll put those random circles in the right spots.

Look at all this hard work you've done. Eventually this will be second nature to you.

Show me what you make! I'd love to see what creatures yall make anatomy charts of.

Photo Reference Packs

I put together some photo packs and uploaded them to my gumroad. You can use them and this guide to study! So far there's only a Doe and a Fawn pack, but if I get sales I will put in the effort to do more for deer, horses, cats, birds, and anything else I can point my camera at.

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How to Draw Native People: a Tutorial/Reference Guide

As requested, here is a basic guide for how to draw Indigenous peoples (mostly focused on North America)! Also please note that this is not an exhaustive list of Native American phenotypes/features, and more like an intro on very common features that can be found in us, and even then, not altogether at once on a single person’s face. I highly encourage the use of references and care taken into research when drawing. I may do a part 2 that goes slightly more into depth, but for now, enjoy part one.

Resouces:

get drawin!!

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Reblogged

Making & using a lace brush in CSP

saw this tweet on twitter,

which actually goes over using file objects to make repeating textures, which is the same method I used to make my lace brush shapes! I elaborated on the process on twitter, and I’m just crossposting this here.

So the first thing is to make a new file object as explained in the tweet, and then if you make use of CSP’s symmetry rulers you can make some complex repeating patterns like this!

The flowers were all done using a 6 line symmetry ruler, and the part at the bottom used a 2 line ruler.

image

& when you set the file object to tiling, you can set what directions it tiles in, too!

Once you’re all done drawing your pattern, you want to make it a brush tip. You need to set this up correctly! CSP’s brush tip engine works as black = primary colour, white = secondary colour,

so to ensure that the brush changes colour as expected: make sure you’re working on a transparent background, and convert your layer to greyscale before you save it as a brush tip material!

This step is important, if you don’t set the layer to greyscale, it will not change colour, even if it’s in black & white.

Anyway with that done you can make it into a brush tip shape by going to edit > register material > image… Here are the settings you’d want for a lace brush! Make sure to tag it so you can find it later.

Once that’s saved you can make it into a brush,

  1. go to brush tip and change the material to your new lace tip
  2. go to stroke, and enable ribbon
  3. if it’s repeating in the wrong direction, go back to brush tip and change the angle to either 90 or 270 (depends which way up you want it)

And you’re done! But as for actually using it, actually prefer to have my lace brushes using the figure line tool, and to make a vector layer for them!

That way you can adjust the line as you need to create more realistic deformation. This works fine with the brush tool too, but drawing a line with the brush tool will create a lot of anchor points so it’s a little trickier to work with.

Anyway! Here’s an example of me using this method

The mechanism of grasp

While looking at the little screech owl, I took a series of photographs and made this gif to illustrate the of the automatic grasping action of the talons.

The structure of bird feet is set up so that the foot automatically grasps when the ankle joint is bent.  

This automatic grip allow birds to sleep while perching, and for raptors clench/grasp prey as the leg is folded on impact.

The mechanism of the foot is ingenious…. there’s no muscle in there at all. 

The foot is powered entirely by a pulley system of tendons. 

Two tendons that run along the back of the leg, Flexor Digitorum Longus and Flexor Hallucis Longus are responsible for the automatic grasp. The former pulls the forward facing toes, and the latter pulls on the hallux, or back toe. 

I drew a schematic diagram of these two tendons here:

It’s particularly interesting in raptors.

Raptors swoop down on prey with talons/legs outstretched. The impact with the prey folds the raptor’s legs against its body, causing the talons to clench automatically, tearing into the prey. The automatic grip is strong enough to kill, and is what allows many hawk species to catch and kill other birds in midair. 

The ingenuity and perfection of this mechanism is mind-blowing.

op hosted these images on photobucket, which unfortunately is now pretty much useless. here is the post again with the images restored:

The structure of bird feet is set up so that the foot automatically grasps when the ankle joint is bent.  
This automatic grip allow birds to sleep while perching, and for raptors clench/grasp prey as the leg is folded on impact.
The mechanism of the foot is ingenious…. there’s no muscle in there at all.
The foot is powered entirely by a pulley system of tendons.
Two tendons that run along the back of the leg, Flexor Digitorum Longus and Flexor Hallucis Longus are responsible for the automatic grasp. The former pulls the forward facing toes, and the latter pulls on the hallux, or back toe.
I drew a schematic diagram of these two tendons here:
It’s particularly interesting in raptors.
Raptors swoop down on prey with talons/legs outstretched. The impact with the prey folds the raptor’s legs against its body, causing the talons to clench automatically, tearing into the prey. The automatic grip is strong enough to kill, and is what allows many hawk species to catch and kill other birds in midair.
The ingenuity and perfection of this mechanism is mind-blowing.
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Reblogged

LINKS(aka tutorials by ppl who make better tutorials):

If you dig yourself mor einto it, you’ll find more and more helpful things, even for a style you might want in your comics and whatever more! But I should probably stop the link spam here…. 

But if you have any more questions, ether you want to know form me or if I know a tutorial, go ahead and ask!!

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Anonymous asked:

so my 3D modeling class in school uses blender but it's like more of a realistic modeling and I was wondering how to get into making low poly characters and stuff like you do? Like if you could make a short tutorial on a basic character that be really nice of you, thanks a stack!!

hey anon,

i’m not gonna make a step by step tutorial about how i make characters because i don’t think there’s much worthwhile to be learned from that. if you really want one, there’s this, which i used to learn blender. it doesn’t reflect my current process exactly, but it’s a good jumping off point.

there’s also some specific things to pay attention to w/ lower poly modeling - joint topology + edge flow are the main ones i can think of rn, and there are tons of great resources about them already.

tbh stylized low poly modeling doesn’t differ from realistic stuff that much - it’s just a matter of paying attention to what kind of image you want to end up with, whether that image is realistic or not.

if you’re having trouble with the actual stylization part, study cartoons + comics, think about how they take real things and exaggerate shapes/colors/expressions to achieve their look. this part has nothing inherent to do with 3d, although sometimes translating it into 3d can require some consideration.

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Anonymous asked:

how did you get that toon shader to look so crisp in your most recent blender work?

it’s not actually a proper shader material, it’s just flats with added bells and whistles, rendered out using the Workbench renderer rather than cycles or eevee!

here’s some setup to show you what i mean:

if your object has a texture map you can select ‘texture’ under Color rather than material, but in this case the colors are purely material-based, and goes by the ‘viewport display’ color property in each different material

also the the outlines are hard to see here but they are drawn both along the silhouette and along where each separate object meets (for example, there’s outlines are drawn around the base of the horns) and that adds a subtle hand-drawn effect

next step is to check shadow and cavity

shadows and cavity are looking nice so far. in cavity settings you can tweak the strength of ridge (peaks highlight) and valley (cavity darkness) as needed for your object, as well as shadow darkness for your preferred effect. the edges of the shadows are softer by default and i want it toony so that’s here this tweak comes in:

that handy little settings gear on the right of the shadow slider is where you can harden the shadows and tweak the light direction if you want/need to

and rendering takes like 1 freaking second even at high res so that’s another plus to this method

hope this helps!

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Following The Eye

Eye-Trace For Games

When the camera in a game is done well everything feels just right, everything just flows. It’s the reason why Journey, why Inside, why Mario Kart 8, and just about every Nintendo game feels just as if anyone could play them.

Knowing how to deal with the eye not only helps you make your game more accessible but it also makes it easier to follow in the most hectic of moments.

From: PlayDead’s INSIDE

My goal: Is to explain how to design the game around the eye’s limitations and create experiences that are more comfortable for our users. I will start with the simple yet effective concept of Eye-Tracing.

An example:

From: Mad Max Fury Road

Follow the red circle: We can immediately read where the motorcycle is between shots and we see the barrel on the shotgun, each shot takes less than a second, yet we read every beat, and that’s because the eye is directed so well here.

Eye tracing is an editing technique used to direct where the eyes of a viewer will be across several shots, in other words it’s strategically moving the eyes of your player to a specific point in the screen and using it in different fun ways.

Create an environment in which you know which part of the frame your player is most likely to be looking at, this can be performed a number of ways but I wont get in the details of composition, color theory, photography or animation. I will only talk about the eyes.

Now, how does something from cinema world, a world where everything is scripted, and there’s a cut every 5 seconds or so apply to an interactive medium? Well the answer is simple it does so in a completely different way.

I will jump back and forth between games and movies but this is a game focused article.

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Do Your Eyes Follow?

What does the player see? What do you as a creator want them to see?

Do those 2 align? Can they?

Eyes have a 5 degree central vision, this is where we read books, if our target moves outside of the near-peripheral section of our eyesight the eyes will have to change positions.

TVs tend to hang in the mid peripheral, it feels as if it covers the whole vision but it really doesn’t. Close one eye and make a frame with your hands observe how much your monitor or your TV takes of your vision space.

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My rules are: 

  1. Screen Is A Plane Not A Window.
  2. Eyes Are Slow.
  3. Eyes Need A Home.
  4. Up And Down Before Left And Right.
  5. One Thing At A Time.

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The Screen Is A Plane Not A Window

The screen is a flat surface, not a window to another world.

The key word here is Planar space! This is the basis of eye tracing, and designing moving media in a way that is easy to read for people. Even 3D movies need to compose in planar space.

Maintaining the focus in a slowly moving point in planar space makes it easier on the eyes because your eyes have to move way less.

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Eyes need a home

Even when there’s nothing to be seen, the eyes should be directed to a point on the screen.

From:Mario Kart 8

In hectic game-play, having one direct point to return to is imperative as it makes the gives the eyes a simple point to return to as they jump from object to object during the action.

In games like Mario Kart the player doesn’t have to worry where the character is, but where the obstacles are.

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Eyes Are Slow

Eyes are freaking slow, if you bring motion to a target and this target moves too fast the eye will unhook from it, this occurs because of something called Saccadic Masking a mechanism in our brain that removes all the blur we should have in our eyesight and replaces it with point 2 in an image.

This means things on the screen need to move at a slow pace but not in any space but in planar space, remember the first rule The Screen Is A Plane Not A Window, as long as the characters move slowly through planar space the characters will be easy to follow, we are aiding the player to follow the character by moving it as little as possible.

If something moves slowly across the screen the eye has an easier time reading it.

if you move something too quickly the eye gets lost.

For example this is easy to follow by the eye.

This isn’t.

From: Playstation All-Stars

Now on this.

From: Super Smash Brother’s Ultimate

Unlike PlayStation All-Stars, Super Smash Brother’s camera is designed around the philosophy of making the action as easy to follow as possible.

Game camera attempts to make the characters move smoothly through planar space, it will even sometimes hook characters if they don’t move for a bit.

This philosophy means everything, this philosophy created this marvel of technical prowess. Regardless of how it was engineered the camera in Smash Brother’s is superbly created.

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Up And Down Before Left And Right

It’s easier for the eyes to follow vertical motion than horizontal motion.

This is why magazines design text in small columns, and entire languages are designed to be read vertically. Eyes find moving up and down more comfortable.

(Read on a large screen)

Up and down.

Left and right.

This also helped Journey’s devs to create a smoother camera that otherwise would have wobbled inelegantly.

Vertical motion will still cause Saccadic masking if motion is too fast, vertical motion just happens to be slightly more comfortable to follow than horizontal motion.

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One Thing At A Time

One thing at a time, and only one thing at a time.

I’m not going against the laws of composition nor framing, you can do amazing things with multiple characters, and crowds. This rule here talks about how even in highly composed shots we still only see one face at a time, one item at a time, or one enemy at a time.

Eyes can only see one thing at a time. Crazy huh? You have to literally stop looking at one thing to look at another. Hell it’s even scientifically proven we can’t multitask. So don’t force people in your supposed-to-be-entertainment product to attempt things that we aren’t biologically designed to do (unless it’s multiplayer, or if you figure it out, who am I to stop you).

From: Super Mario Odyssey

Make sure that if something is happening on the screen that only one thing is happening that requires the player’s full attention, now this may go against the idea of action game-play for a lot of people, specially in games with a lot of AI going at you, this is easily remedied by having only one AI attack at once, think, and ask yourself the question, What is the main focus at this very moment? and make it immediately readable. Yes, even if it’s outside the screen.

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Solutions

I will give some solutions to improve your game on the engineering side.

1) Create the camera system backwards.

Engineer the camera system to respect the points in planar space first and then calculate to it.

2) If you know where the eye is, use it.

Dynamically determine where the eye is right before the next shot, or right before elements are to be displayed.

We can create things that only games can do, we can dynamically adjust the camera, the next shot, or item position for our users.

3) Guide the eye.

It’s your job to guide the eye, figure out ways in which you can do it the most effectively.

Things like the opening in Journey are just brilliant. The eye follows the character to the top of a hill just to bring an even bigger from the horizon.

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The Future

I hope this gives people an understanding of how the eye works in games and helps us understand the one issue that I think plagues entertainment software the most, we think of the camera as a dual state either it is a “Game Camera” or a “Movie Camera”, that just has to stop, I think we can embrace cutting and create something that is neither Game nor Movie camera.

With a better understanding on how to handle eye-tracing we can do things film can’t even imagine, so I hope this article helps you learn something I noticed. And helps you realize that one thing that only your game can do that will blow us all away.

Cheers,

-Fern.H.W.

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A fine article.

Was getting some of my images ready to be made into prints today so I thought I’d make a guide for anyone else interested in making prints of their work :D

CSP is on sale again! (Nov 22-27 2018)

theyre also doing a giveaway promotion as you can see! more details on that here: https://www.clipstudio.net/en/promotion/campaign_notes/

no country restriction as far as i can tell, as the campaign is happening in several different languages.

But also exciting is they’re releasing a new update on the 29th:

they’re adding audio & camera control for animations, some kind of AI for colouring? and the ability to publish your comics in e-reader format!

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