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Amy Oakland

California State University, East Bay, Art, Faculty Member

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Address: Hayward and Berkeley, California, United States

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Universidad Nacional Mayor de San Marcos

Denver Museum of Nature and Science

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Université de Montréal

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Universidad Nacional Pedro Ruiz Gallo

American Museum of Natural History

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Western University Canada

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Universidad Nacional de Trujillo

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Papers by Amy Oakland

Textiles, dates and identity in the late occupation of the Huacas de Moche, Peru

Antiquity

Archaeological cultures present allegories of ethnic identities across the centuries or millennia... more Archaeological cultures present allegories of ethnic identities across the centuries or millennia but such conceptualisations are necessarily incomplete and lack the resolution to explore transitions between cultures. Here, exploration of the archaeological contexts, production methods, stylistic variation and radiocarbon dating of 20 preserved textile fragments facilitates an examination of cultural change at Huaca del Sol (Huacas de Moche, northern Peru). While occupants of the site experienced many outside cultural influences, including those from the highland Wari Empire, continuity in textile traditions suggests that some sense of Moche identity was maintained through the tenth century and after the perceived end of the Moche culture.

Moche-Wari Textiles from Huaca del Sol, Moche influence in the Middle Horizon

Zea Books, 2024

This paper analyzes a selection of textiles excavated in 2013 in the destroyed late Middle Horizo... more This paper analyzes a selection of textiles excavated in 2013 in the destroyed late Middle Horizon (AD 800-1000) cemetery on Huaca del Sol, Huacas de Moche in the Moche Valley of northern Peru. The Huaca Sol textile group was woven with local, Moche style S-spun cotton yarns between AD 888-1050, calibrated radiocarbon dates along with a small number of Wari textiles, late Moche and Wari ceramics and ceramics in Casma and Cajamarca styles. Textile structure and design provide the basis for reconstruction into complete garment types known to other Middle Horizon collections on the central and southern coast where Moche S-spun cotton yarns contrast with southern cotton Z-spinning techniques. Finally, the paper discusses production methods and distribution of Moche-Wari men's sleeved shirts and concludes that Moche spinners and weavers may have participated with Wari and other Moche and non-Moche groups in the production, use and distribution of late Middle Horizon textiles.

Andean Perspective, 1982

The Women Of Coyo Tradition And Innovation In AndeanPrehistory

Textile Society of America, 1992

North Coast Style after Moche: Clothing and Identity at El Brujo, Chicama Valley, Peru

Us and Them: Archaeology and Ethnicity in the Andes, 2005

Telas Pintadas de Chimu Capac, valle de Supe, Perú

Max Uhle (1856-1944) Evaluaciones de sus Investigaciones y Obras, 2010

Tiahuanaco Tapestry Tunics and Mantles from San Pedro de Atacama, Chile

The Junius B. Bird Conference on Andean Textiles, 1986

Anean Textiles from Village and Cemetery: Caserones in the Tarapacá Valley, North Chile

Beyond Cloth and Cordage, Archaeological Textile Research in the Americas , 2000

Weaving in a High Land

Traditional Textiles of the Andes, 1997

Andean Tapestry: Structure Informs the Surface

Art Journal Vol 54, No. 2, 1995

A Comparison of Marine and Terrestrial Radiocarbon Ages from Northern Chile Item Type Article; text

Radiocarbon , 1995

The calibration of radiocarbon dates on marine materials involves a global marine calibration wit... more The calibration of radiocarbon dates on marine materials involves a global marine calibration with regional corrections. Data from well-associated marine and terrestrial materials in archaeological artifacts from northern Chile indicated that the calibration is valid for the period AD 200-900 and suggest that coastal upwelling intensities during that period were similar to those of the early 20th century.

Moche-Wari Textiles from Huaca del Sol, Moche influence in the Middle Horizon

PreColumbian Textile Conference, Milan, 2024

Resumen Esta ponencia analiza textiles excavados en 2013 en el cementerio muy destruido del Hori... more Resumen
Esta ponencia analiza textiles excavados en 2013 en el cementerio muy destruido del Horizonte Medio tardio (AD 800-1000) en Huaca del Sol, Huacas de Moche en el Valle Moche del norte de Peru. El grupo de textiles Huaca del Sol fue tejido de hilos de algodón local, estilo Moche, hilado en S entre AD 888-1050 (fechas 14C calibrados). Se ha identificado textiles Wari e imágenes Wari, asimismo se asociaron cerámica en estilos Moche, Wari, Casma y Cajamarca. La estructura y el diseño proveen la base para una reconstrucción de un tipo de trajes conocidos de otras colecciones del Horizonte Medio donde hilos de Moche S difieren de los hilos locales de algodón hilado en Z. La ponencia presenta métodos de producción y distribución de túnicas de hombre con mangas de los Moche tardíos del Horizonte Medio y concluye que las hiladoras y tejedoras Moches probablemente participaron con otros grupos Wari, Moche y no-Moche en producción, uso y distribución de textiles Horizonte Medio.
Palabras clave
Textiles Moche-Wari, Textiles Moche, Wari, Huaca del Sol, Horizonte Medio

Middle Horizon Textiles from Chimu Capac, Supe Valley, Peru

PreColumbian Textile Conference, Brussels, 2020

This article presents an overview of the textiles Max Uhle collected between November 4 and Decem... more This article presents an overview of the textiles Max Uhle collected between November 4 and December 3, 1904 in the Middle Horizon cemetery at Chimu Capac in the Supe Valley, Peru. The total collection of objects numbers over 830 with 278 textiles including woven fragments, complete garments, woven and painted pouches, and over 155 painted textiles. The article discusses a sample of Chimu Capac textiles included in Uhle's Supe field Notebook 67, in his handwritten Supe report, and textiles listed in the Supe Berkeley catalog. The Chimu Capac textiles compare with collections of Middle Horizon funerary objects made in coastal burials from El Castillo, Ancon, Pachacamac, Huaca Malena, and Monte Grande. Although most of the textiles from Chimu Capac have connections with the Middle Horizon burial tradition practiced along the Peruvian coast, the painted textiles exhibit many unique features and perhaps represent a local style at the site.

Ancient Attire of the Southern Andes

Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, Sep 24, 2010

A Wari Tapestry Textile in a Tiwanaku Tomb from the Osmore Valley, Moquegua, Peru

Textile Society of America, 2012

The String or Grass Skirt; an Ancient Garment in the Southern Andes

Textile Society of America, 2008

Wari and the Huaca del Sol: Max Uhle’s 1899 Textile Collection at Moche, Peru

Making Meaning, Precolumbian Archaeology, Art, Art History, 2022

More than one hundred years ago, German archeologist Max Uhle excavated textiles and ceramics on ... more More than one hundred years ago, German archeologist Max Uhle excavated textiles and ceramics on the Huaca del Sol in the Moche Valley, Perú. This essay analyzes the textiles now housed in the Phoebe Hearst Museum of Anthropology of the University of California at Berkeley. The group is significant for the time period during the Andean Middle Horizon (600-900 CE), the variety of textile styles, and the presence of Moche textiles on the north coast of Perú where textiles are not commonly preserved. The textiles identify at least three separate traditions: a local Moche style, a hybrid highland/coastal style and a Wari associated style. The essay discusses the Huaca del Sol textiles as an opportunity to examine relations between the two important Peruvian cultures of Moche and Wari.

Pre-Columbian Spinning and Lloq'e yarn: an ethnographic analogy

Tiwanaku textile style from the South Central Andes, Bolivia and north Chile

UMI Dissertation Services eBooks, 1986

Los tejidos huari y tiwanaku: comparaciones y contextos

Boletin De Arqueologia Pucp, Apr 16, 2001

Ell muchos aspectos de La cuLtura materiaL, Los tejidos huari y tiwallaku presentall y comparten ... more Ell muchos aspectos de La cuLtura materiaL, Los tejidos huari y tiwallaku presentall y comparten rasgos iconogra.ficos, pero se distinguen en su construccion y tecnicas de manufactura. Los tejidos huari descubiertos en diferentes sitios a Lo Largo de La costa peruana poseen dis enos que Los ligan intimamente aL centro de La cultura Tiwanaku, pero tam bien evocan distintas innovaciones iconograJicas con respecto a las de este centro. Ell 10 que respecta a los tejidos tiwallaku, sus disenos son mucho mas restrillgidos y preselltan una fuerte orientacion hacia La iconografia estandar conocida para la escuLtura en piedra. Ambas cuLturas crearon una fastuosa vestimenta, la que es muy similar a primera vista, como es eL caso de las tunicas en tapiz, los gorros de cuatro puntas, asi como Los mantos y camisas elaborados en urdimbres y tramas discontinuas, decorados por tenido aL negativo. Estos tejidos, sin embargo,fueroll hechos de mallera diferente, obedeciendo a los patrones culturaLes establecidos delltro de su esfera de influellcia. Las tunicas huari se distinguen por sus brillantes coLores, conformados a partir de dos tejidos que se caracterizan por presentar sus orillos recortados. Estos tejidos fueron doblados y luego cosidos. Por otro lado, las evidencias de tUllicas tiwanaku SOli limitadas: un examen de estas muestra que fueron elaboradas como las tllnicas del estilo Inca, confeccionadas a partir de un solo tejido, con la abertura para el cuello realizada durallte su elaboracioll. Otro es el caso de UIIO de los accesorios del estilo Huari, el gorro de cuatro puntas, que comparte atributos COli aqueL desarrollado dentro de La esfera tiwallaku. Ambos son sorprendelltemente similares, pero los gorros huari lie van pequenos mechones elltre los nudos, mielltras que los ejemplares tiwallaku se caracteriwn por el cambio de color en los hilos empleados. En ambos cas os, estas variaciones estan relacionadas con el sistema decorativo. Ell este articulo se discutiran evidencias textiles y la iconograJia asociada a este material, el cualno ha podido cOllservarse en el centro de su dominio. Textiles huari. procedell1es de El Brujo. valle de Chicama, Peru, seran presentados dentro de su contexto, asi como tambiell los tejidos tiwanaku registrados en el cementerio de Sail Pedro de Atacama, Chile. Se expondran, por IUlimo, las similitudes y diferellcias ex istentes en ambos estilos.

Textiles, dates and identity in the late occupation of the Huacas de Moche, Peru

Antiquity

Archaeological cultures present allegories of ethnic identities across the centuries or millennia... more Archaeological cultures present allegories of ethnic identities across the centuries or millennia but such conceptualisations are necessarily incomplete and lack the resolution to explore transitions between cultures. Here, exploration of the archaeological contexts, production methods, stylistic variation and radiocarbon dating of 20 preserved textile fragments facilitates an examination of cultural change at Huaca del Sol (Huacas de Moche, northern Peru). While occupants of the site experienced many outside cultural influences, including those from the highland Wari Empire, continuity in textile traditions suggests that some sense of Moche identity was maintained through the tenth century and after the perceived end of the Moche culture.

Moche-Wari Textiles from Huaca del Sol, Moche influence in the Middle Horizon

Zea Books, 2024

This paper analyzes a selection of textiles excavated in 2013 in the destroyed late Middle Horizo... more This paper analyzes a selection of textiles excavated in 2013 in the destroyed late Middle Horizon (AD 800-1000) cemetery on Huaca del Sol, Huacas de Moche in the Moche Valley of northern Peru. The Huaca Sol textile group was woven with local, Moche style S-spun cotton yarns between AD 888-1050, calibrated radiocarbon dates along with a small number of Wari textiles, late Moche and Wari ceramics and ceramics in Casma and Cajamarca styles. Textile structure and design provide the basis for reconstruction into complete garment types known to other Middle Horizon collections on the central and southern coast where Moche S-spun cotton yarns contrast with southern cotton Z-spinning techniques. Finally, the paper discusses production methods and distribution of Moche-Wari men's sleeved shirts and concludes that Moche spinners and weavers may have participated with Wari and other Moche and non-Moche groups in the production, use and distribution of late Middle Horizon textiles.

Andean Perspective, 1982

The Women Of Coyo Tradition And Innovation In AndeanPrehistory

Textile Society of America, 1992

North Coast Style after Moche: Clothing and Identity at El Brujo, Chicama Valley, Peru

Us and Them: Archaeology and Ethnicity in the Andes, 2005

Telas Pintadas de Chimu Capac, valle de Supe, Perú

Max Uhle (1856-1944) Evaluaciones de sus Investigaciones y Obras, 2010

Tiahuanaco Tapestry Tunics and Mantles from San Pedro de Atacama, Chile

The Junius B. Bird Conference on Andean Textiles, 1986

Anean Textiles from Village and Cemetery: Caserones in the Tarapacá Valley, North Chile

Beyond Cloth and Cordage, Archaeological Textile Research in the Americas , 2000

Weaving in a High Land

Traditional Textiles of the Andes, 1997

Andean Tapestry: Structure Informs the Surface

Art Journal Vol 54, No. 2, 1995

A Comparison of Marine and Terrestrial Radiocarbon Ages from Northern Chile Item Type Article; text

Radiocarbon , 1995

The calibration of radiocarbon dates on marine materials involves a global marine calibration wit... more The calibration of radiocarbon dates on marine materials involves a global marine calibration with regional corrections. Data from well-associated marine and terrestrial materials in archaeological artifacts from northern Chile indicated that the calibration is valid for the period AD 200-900 and suggest that coastal upwelling intensities during that period were similar to those of the early 20th century.

Moche-Wari Textiles from Huaca del Sol, Moche influence in the Middle Horizon

PreColumbian Textile Conference, Milan, 2024

Resumen Esta ponencia analiza textiles excavados en 2013 en el cementerio muy destruido del Hori... more Resumen
Esta ponencia analiza textiles excavados en 2013 en el cementerio muy destruido del Horizonte Medio tardio (AD 800-1000) en Huaca del Sol, Huacas de Moche en el Valle Moche del norte de Peru. El grupo de textiles Huaca del Sol fue tejido de hilos de algodón local, estilo Moche, hilado en S entre AD 888-1050 (fechas 14C calibrados). Se ha identificado textiles Wari e imágenes Wari, asimismo se asociaron cerámica en estilos Moche, Wari, Casma y Cajamarca. La estructura y el diseño proveen la base para una reconstrucción de un tipo de trajes conocidos de otras colecciones del Horizonte Medio donde hilos de Moche S difieren de los hilos locales de algodón hilado en Z. La ponencia presenta métodos de producción y distribución de túnicas de hombre con mangas de los Moche tardíos del Horizonte Medio y concluye que las hiladoras y tejedoras Moches probablemente participaron con otros grupos Wari, Moche y no-Moche en producción, uso y distribución de textiles Horizonte Medio.
Palabras clave
Textiles Moche-Wari, Textiles Moche, Wari, Huaca del Sol, Horizonte Medio

Middle Horizon Textiles from Chimu Capac, Supe Valley, Peru

PreColumbian Textile Conference, Brussels, 2020

This article presents an overview of the textiles Max Uhle collected between November 4 and Decem... more This article presents an overview of the textiles Max Uhle collected between November 4 and December 3, 1904 in the Middle Horizon cemetery at Chimu Capac in the Supe Valley, Peru. The total collection of objects numbers over 830 with 278 textiles including woven fragments, complete garments, woven and painted pouches, and over 155 painted textiles. The article discusses a sample of Chimu Capac textiles included in Uhle's Supe field Notebook 67, in his handwritten Supe report, and textiles listed in the Supe Berkeley catalog. The Chimu Capac textiles compare with collections of Middle Horizon funerary objects made in coastal burials from El Castillo, Ancon, Pachacamac, Huaca Malena, and Monte Grande. Although most of the textiles from Chimu Capac have connections with the Middle Horizon burial tradition practiced along the Peruvian coast, the painted textiles exhibit many unique features and perhaps represent a local style at the site.

Ancient Attire of the Southern Andes

Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, Sep 24, 2010

A Wari Tapestry Textile in a Tiwanaku Tomb from the Osmore Valley, Moquegua, Peru

Textile Society of America, 2012

The String or Grass Skirt; an Ancient Garment in the Southern Andes

Textile Society of America, 2008

Wari and the Huaca del Sol: Max Uhle’s 1899 Textile Collection at Moche, Peru

Making Meaning, Precolumbian Archaeology, Art, Art History, 2022

More than one hundred years ago, German archeologist Max Uhle excavated textiles and ceramics on ... more More than one hundred years ago, German archeologist Max Uhle excavated textiles and ceramics on the Huaca del Sol in the Moche Valley, Perú. This essay analyzes the textiles now housed in the Phoebe Hearst Museum of Anthropology of the University of California at Berkeley. The group is significant for the time period during the Andean Middle Horizon (600-900 CE), the variety of textile styles, and the presence of Moche textiles on the north coast of Perú where textiles are not commonly preserved. The textiles identify at least three separate traditions: a local Moche style, a hybrid highland/coastal style and a Wari associated style. The essay discusses the Huaca del Sol textiles as an opportunity to examine relations between the two important Peruvian cultures of Moche and Wari.

Pre-Columbian Spinning and Lloq'e yarn: an ethnographic analogy

Tiwanaku textile style from the South Central Andes, Bolivia and north Chile

UMI Dissertation Services eBooks, 1986

Los tejidos huari y tiwanaku: comparaciones y contextos

Boletin De Arqueologia Pucp, Apr 16, 2001

Ell muchos aspectos de La cuLtura materiaL, Los tejidos huari y tiwallaku presentall y comparten ... more Ell muchos aspectos de La cuLtura materiaL, Los tejidos huari y tiwallaku presentall y comparten rasgos iconogra.ficos, pero se distinguen en su construccion y tecnicas de manufactura. Los tejidos huari descubiertos en diferentes sitios a Lo Largo de La costa peruana poseen dis enos que Los ligan intimamente aL centro de La cultura Tiwanaku, pero tam bien evocan distintas innovaciones iconograJicas con respecto a las de este centro. Ell 10 que respecta a los tejidos tiwallaku, sus disenos son mucho mas restrillgidos y preselltan una fuerte orientacion hacia La iconografia estandar conocida para la escuLtura en piedra. Ambas cuLturas crearon una fastuosa vestimenta, la que es muy similar a primera vista, como es eL caso de las tunicas en tapiz, los gorros de cuatro puntas, asi como Los mantos y camisas elaborados en urdimbres y tramas discontinuas, decorados por tenido aL negativo. Estos tejidos, sin embargo,fueroll hechos de mallera diferente, obedeciendo a los patrones culturaLes establecidos delltro de su esfera de influellcia. Las tunicas huari se distinguen por sus brillantes coLores, conformados a partir de dos tejidos que se caracterizan por presentar sus orillos recortados. Estos tejidos fueron doblados y luego cosidos. Por otro lado, las evidencias de tUllicas tiwanaku SOli limitadas: un examen de estas muestra que fueron elaboradas como las tllnicas del estilo Inca, confeccionadas a partir de un solo tejido, con la abertura para el cuello realizada durallte su elaboracioll. Otro es el caso de UIIO de los accesorios del estilo Huari, el gorro de cuatro puntas, que comparte atributos COli aqueL desarrollado dentro de La esfera tiwallaku. Ambos son sorprendelltemente similares, pero los gorros huari lie van pequenos mechones elltre los nudos, mielltras que los ejemplares tiwallaku se caracteriwn por el cambio de color en los hilos empleados. En ambos cas os, estas variaciones estan relacionadas con el sistema decorativo. Ell este articulo se discutiran evidencias textiles y la iconograJia asociada a este material, el cualno ha podido cOllservarse en el centro de su dominio. Textiles huari. procedell1es de El Brujo. valle de Chicama, Peru, seran presentados dentro de su contexto, asi como tambiell los tejidos tiwanaku registrados en el cementerio de Sail Pedro de Atacama, Chile. Se expondran, por IUlimo, las similitudes y diferellcias ex istentes en ambos estilos.