Papers by Eulanda Sanders
Motherhood: A Visualization of Internal Tension
Breaking Boundaries
The amount of moisture which textile fibers are capable of absorbing affects their use in activew... more The amount of moisture which textile fibers are capable of absorbing affects their use in activewear. By making a functional analogy to natural systems via the biomimetic framework, the aim is to develop knitted fabrics that can change shape in response to changing environmental conditions, without any other control mechanisms or energy (Fratzl & Weinkamer, 2007). Few researchers have studied the responsive behavior for fibers and textiles, specifically natural fibers in a knitted fabric (Scott, 2015). This research documents the exploration of moisture responsiveness for forty different wool based fabrics, constructed via Santoni seamless knitting technology.
In Saudi Arabia, a wedding is a significant occasion requiring extension preparation. Researchers... more In Saudi Arabia, a wedding is a significant occasion requiring extension preparation. Researchers have not yet explored how bride-to-be's consumption patterns might be shaped in a tradition-oriented culture like Saudi Arabia. Thus, the purpose of this study was to explore the Saudi woman's bridal shopping experience during her transition into marriage and the meanings reflected in the purchases made. Qualitative data were collected via in-depth interviews with 14 Saudi women who were engaged to be married. Data were analyzed using constant comparison processes. Analysis revealed three themes, including: (a) Facilitating the liminal transition to new life, (b) Resisting complete change, and (c) Complication and ambiguity of the bride-to-be's transition experience. Saudi brides-to-be engaged in complex identity construction processes to construct an appropriate new identity and appearance to embrace and project the symbolic difference between single and married life.
Scottish Kiltmaking Design Process
Fashion Practice, 2021
Abstract The kilt is one of the most recognizable garments in the world and is an important eleme... more Abstract The kilt is one of the most recognizable garments in the world and is an important element in Scottish national culture, and although the Scottish kilt has existed for approximately 500 years, there is scant literature available that documents Scottish kiltmaking design and production processes. Due to this lack of attention it is important to understand kilts and kiltmakers more deeply. Therefore, the purpose of the present research was to understand common skills and production techniques used by Scottish kiltmakers. The present study utilized interviews with kiltmakers (n = 17), observations and video recordings, and creation of a kilt prototype to document the kiltmaking process. Emergent themes included indigenous knowledge, skill set, planning, sewing processes and techniques key to the process of kiltmaking. The research successfully explored: (a) the learning process that kiltmakers undergo, (b) the unique aspects of the Scottish kiltmaking process that differentiate it from other forms of tailoring and apparel professions, and (c) the salient design and production process utilized by Scottish kiltmakers. Limitations and future research are outlined.
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2020
PurposeThe purpose of this research was to investigate the effect of knit fabric stitch patterns,... more PurposeThe purpose of this research was to investigate the effect of knit fabric stitch patterns, as indicated by fabric thickness variations, on moisture responsiveness for different seamless knitted wool-based fabrics.Design/methodology/approachForty fabrics were created on a Santoni Top-2 circular knitting machine by using combinations of jersey, tuck and float stitches in combinations of wool/Nylon, wool, and spandex yarns. Physical properties of the knit fabrics as well as changes in fabric thickness during dry, wet, after 30Â min air-drying and after 60Â min air-drying conditions were compared. Repeated measures ANOVA tests and bivariate correlation analysis were conducted.FindingsThe results indicated that changes in moisture conditions had a significant effect on fabric thickness, and these changes differed by stitch pattern groups. Float patterns and tuck/rib patterns showed a continued relaxation of fabric thickness through all conditions, but tuck stitches and rib stitches ...
The Ties That Bind: Britain’s Use of Scottish Highland Dress
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 2020
For over 300 years, Britain has influenced Scotland’s national identity. Scottish Highland dress,... more For over 300 years, Britain has influenced Scotland’s national identity. Scottish Highland dress, which consists of kilts and tartans has been appropriated, manipulated, and transformed by the British in order to forward political, commercial, and social objectives. Scotland’s national dress has contributed to a more cohesive identity within the United Kingdom. However, available research only examines specific instances of British influence on—and usage of—kilts and tartans. The purpose of this study was to identify and explore a sample of key figures and historical events that illustrate the use of Scottish Highland dress to forward British interests. The researchers triangulated databases and secondary literature along with extant objects and materials, with the aim of developing a more holistic understanding of appropriation, manipulation, and transformation. Findings indicate how the context and usage of Scottish Highland dress was transformed over time.
Introduction. During a tour of a northeastern United States textile finishing plant (FP), the lea... more Introduction. During a tour of a northeastern United States textile finishing plant (FP), the lead researcher was given 7.47 lbs. of cotton/bamboo blend jersey knit pre-consumer waste (PCW) material. The waste is the selvage trimming-off of a roll of fabric, a result of the finishing process. Jersey knit's tendency to roll caused this narrow selvage waste to resemble yarn. Typically, this waste is disposed of at FP's expense. Problematically, this waste adds chemicals and textiles into landfills and watersheds. Disposal also is a missed opportunity for FP in the creation of new jobs from the development of products from the waste. The waste, cost of disposal, and new jobs represent the triad of Triple Bottom Line (Hammer & Pivo, 2017). The economy of FP, ecology of the earth and equity of employees may be positively affected by FP's alteration of its choice to dispose of the waste. While PCW may be recycled, that may not be the best sustainable choice for this specific waste; output is lost over time, energy was wasted in the initial creation of the fabric and energy is expended recreating new textiles (Hethorn, 2015). Transforming PCW into consumer products may have a positive impact on the sustainability of the industry. Finding a use for the waste is the first step in promoting that change. Current product development (PD) models, such as in Chun-Sheng Wu and Qiao-Ying Wu's 2011 study, focus on marketing and customer research as the first step of PD. A redesigned PD process model was developed to illustrate a process of exploring uses for PCW in this study. Study Aim and Research Questions. The purpose of this design concept paper was to share the exploration of the suitability of FP's specific waste textile to be used as yarn. To meet this purpose, the following research questions were developed: RQ 1: Can the waste be crocheted? RQ 2: What crochet stitches result in pleasing results? RQ 3: Can the waste be knit? RQ 4: What knit stitches result in pleasing results? RQ 5: What is the average output per yard of the waste? RQ 6: Does this study result in a redesigned product development process? Methods. Waste from FP's machine was transported approximately 300 miles in the lead researcher's car in a plastic garbage bag. If the waste were to be collected regularly for PD, a process would need to be added to the finishing machine or process to eliminate the approximately 3 hour untangling step. Following untangling, the waste was rolled into 16 balls, ranging in weight from 29 g (11.5 yds.) to 543 g (203.4 yds.), totaling 3390 g (1261.56 yds.). Weighing and measuring 6 balls of waste, then averaging the grams per yard, allowed the lead researcher to estimate the yardage of the remaining 10 balls. The waste was hand-crocheted into 3 samples and hand-knitted into 8 samples of a variety of stitches, using a 10 mm hook or
stated to Mika; "If you're not asking for a promotion…you're not going to get the golden ring" (B... more stated to Mika; "If you're not asking for a promotion…you're not going to get the golden ring" (Brzezinski, 2010, p. 37).
Introduction/Significance. Much has been written in the media about the Women's March that took p... more Introduction/Significance. Much has been written in the media about the Women's March that took place January 21, 2017, in Washington D.C., around the country, and on seven continents, and the reasons for females to march in support of their genders' progress toward justice and equality. One of the powerful icons of this resistance, the pussy hat, bears further examination. Two female activists designed the original patterns, shared them online, and encouraged women around the world to make the cat-eared hats (Pussy Hat Project, 2017). Hats were easily created by women with varying skills, by knitting or crocheting fiber or cutting and sewing on fabric. Women who were unable to march due to health reasons or disabilities considered hat making to outfit marchers as their mode of resistance. The pussy hat was prominently displayed on the cover of Time magazine and in an essay by Vick "The Resistance Rises" (February 6, 2017). The accompanying photograph, which captured the march in an aerial view with the background of the Washington monument and flags flying, clearly impresses the viewer with the sea of hot pink perched on the heads of the protesters. The purpose of this study was to understand motivations for participating in the Women's March. The researchers aimed to document events at the marches, explore marchers' perspectives, and observe communication (both verbal and nonverbal). The research questions were: 1. Why are people marching in the Women's March on Washington on January 21, and 2. What role does dress play in the march? Theoretical Framework. We used symbolic interaction theory, specifically, the essay "Appearance and the Self" as a guideline to analyze the data (Stone, 1962). "A primary tenet of all symbolic, interaction theory holds that the self is established, maintained, and altered in and through communication" (Stone, 1962, p. 19). This essay expanded symbolic interaction theory to explain the role of appearance. Non-verbal symbols allow the viewer to interpret a wearer's identity through social transactions and discourse. We also interpreted the meaning of the pussy hats as symbols through the form, viewer, and context aesthetic analysis framework (DeLong, 1998). Form encompassed factors perceptible through the senses such as color, surface texture, shape, and silhouette. Meaning could differ across individuals, influenced by viewers' personalities, beliefs, attitudes, and backgrounds. Finally, the context involved cultural, seasonal, temporal, and geographic factors that influenced meaning formation. Methods. The study aimed to answer the research questions by using an inductive approach with observations and audio recorded interviews of the event attendants 18 and older. Authors collected data in Washington, D.C., and in St. Paul. The goals of the ethnographic process were to observe dress as a tool of nonverbal communication and to understand referent meanings of the pussy hat. The interview schedule included demographics and 11 open-ended questions. Videos were recorded, photographs were taken, and interviews were transcribed. Qualitative data were used to provide form, viewer, and context insights underlying aesthetic
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 2018
Millions of Americans see theatrical productions every year, each with performers clothed via cos... more Millions of Americans see theatrical productions every year, each with performers clothed via costume design. The purpose of this study was to systematically examine the creative process of costume design for historically set theatrical productions. Sixteen Broadway costume designers were interviewed. Data analysis revealed that though each designer and every production is different, these costume designers approached historically set productions similarly. They believed that the presentation of history is essential, but they have their own inclination toward historical accuracy. Guided by their inclinations, they designed costumes by considering three independent production factors (applicability, attainability, and performability) and implementing four iterative strategies (incubation, research, role-playing, and historical manipulation). Through these findings, the authors developed a theoretical framework for the creative process of costume design for historically set production...
International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 2017
From both users' and creators' perspectives, this study examined: (1) designer-users' needs of sm... more From both users' and creators' perspectives, this study examined: (1) designer-users' needs of smart clothing, (2) designer-identified consumer needs, (3) design purposes, and (4) the relationships among needs and design purposes. Fifteen participants were interviewed. Results indicated, first, users were most interested in affordable, fashionable, and enjoyable smart clothing. Second, designers believed the most important consumer needs were function, no technical problems, and affordability. Third, design purposes focused on function and solving technical problems. Fourth, two gaps existed: designers did not fully understand all consumer needs; although designers understood some needs, their design purposes did not always meet these needs. By investigating consumer needs from users who had purchasing experiences, this study provides a unique contribution to the scholarly literature. Findings identified gaps among user needs, designer-identified consumer needs, and design purposes, which will help industry and academia to develop more useful smart clothing.
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Papers by Eulanda Sanders