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You might not realize it, but there are so many potential skin benefits you'd be missing out on without a face oil. We know, we know, "oil" is a scary word in skincare, especially if it's used by those with oily and acne-prone skin. But what if we told you that non-comedogenic oils don't only exist but that you should definitely be using one? To understand the difference, scientifically speaking, between oils that clog your pores and ones that don't (i.e., comedogenic vs. non-comedogenic oils), we turned to the experts.
Meet the Experts
- Jennifer Herrmann, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist with Skin Solutions Dermatology.
- Rachel Nazarian, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City.
- Gloria Lu and Victoria Fu are cosmetic chemists and the founders of Chemist Confessions, a skincare science blog and company.
As dermatologist Dr. Jennifer Herrmann puts it, "Plant-based oils contain essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, which nourish the skin but also strengthen its barrier, increase elasticity, and fight damage from environmental chemicals and UV." But, as Herrmann points out, there are numerous plant oils and extracts, and their chemical composition of fatty acids varies, and different ratios of acids can be helpful or more harmful for acne.
"It’s definitely understandable why the concept of putting more oil on sounds scary for acne-prone skin, but oily skin can still benefit from good oils to help keep skin moisturized," says Fu explains. This is why noncomedogenic moisturizers (such as regular lotions and creams) are also beneficial to those with oily skin. "There actually isn't any set defining chemical structural difference between comedogenic and non-comedogenic oils," Lu explains, adding that how these ingredients interact with skin and cause comedones is actually not well understood. It's an empirical trait qualified through testing (that’s somewhat controversial), but based on that testing, Lu says there are quite a few non-comedogenic oil options in skincare.
But first, a word on comedogenic oils. The most common pore-clogging oil is coconut oil, but the experts also flag palm, soybean, wheat germ, flaxseed, and even some ester oils, like myristyl myristate, as comedogenic. Herrmann adds that other oils higher in oleic acid, like cocoa and shea butter, might be less helpful and encourage breakouts in those who are prone. If you're using a blend of oils, you'll generally want to avoid those aforementioned comedogenic oils, but Fu points out that just because a product has comedogenic ingredients doesn't necessarily mean the product is bad. "The entire formula and the concentration of the offending ingredient also matters," Fu explains.
It is important to note that essential oils are highly concentrated botanical oils that may provide naturally derived benefits when applied topically. According to Nazarian, "some have be shown to have anti-acne activity, such as tea tree oil, clary sage, and juniper oil, and although about 90 different essential oils are 'recommended' for use in dermatologic disease, these have not all been studied and are not science backed." "I would say most people do not need to incorporate oils into their regimen. They often cause natural microflora of skin, normal yeasts and fungus, to flourish more," she adds.
However, if you would like to give non-comedogenic oils a try, that even those with acne-prone skin could feel comfortable using, keep reading. Of course, there are no universal recommendations, so be sure to always try it on a small area of skin first. "Oils can impact individuals differently, and their effect may be varied due to someone’s natural skin hydration and oil composition and what medications they may be using," Herrmann adds.
Below, your guide to non-comedogenic oils and seven worth checking out.
Rosehip Oil
If you're particularly acne-prone, Fu and Lu suggest looking for linoleic acid-forward oils, such as rosehip oil. This non-fragrant plant oil has a high concentration of linoleic acid (aka omega-6 fatty acids), which studies show could be helpful for acne.
According to Nazarian, rosehip oil is a "nice fatty oil that has anti-inflammatory properties and offers relatively high protection against oxidative stressors." It is generally well-tolerated unless its combined with fragrances and perfumes.
Squalane
If you’re worried about using an oil, Lu says a very, very vanilla starting point for most skin types is squalane, which Lu describes as non-comedogenic and incredibly stable. Not to be confused with squalene (which is found naturally in the skin and required for hydration), squalane is the lighter version that works to moisturize by trapping moisture into the skin.
Hemp Seed Oil
One oil on the top of all the experts' lists of the least comedogenic is hemp seed oil. "Interestingly, studies have shown that those with acne often have low levels of the essential fatty acid linoleic acid in the skin, which can lead to skin surface build-up and clogging," Herrmann explains. Oils that are high in linoleic acid, like hemp seed oil might just help that.
"Hemp seed oil is a high content of fatty acid, so a good choice for dry skin," says Nazarian. "It's a little less stable than other oils, such as olive oil, and has less antioxidants than olive oil, but generally a decent choice that can offer hydrating abilities."
Grapeseed Oil
Next on the list, grapeseed oil (or as it's sometimes called, Vitis vinifera). High in linoleic acid and rich in vitamin E, this lightweight oil is another one used for moisturizing and balancing the skin. It's also certainly full of antioxidants for a lot of promise with free-radical protection. To get the most out of your grapeseed oil, be mindful of where you store it, as is the case with most oils. "Just keep in mind that oils can go rancid, so do pay attention to shelf life and store these in vampire settings: sealed and in a dark, cool place," Fu adds,
Jojoba Oil
Another notable non-comedogenic oil, and one of Lu's top picks, is jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis). But it's not technically an oil—it's a wax ester. This means it's actually very similar to skin's natural sebum and because of that, it helps to balance the skin's oil production. What's more, the fact that it's a wax ester also makes it much more stable than oils, which typically go rancid quickly.
"Jojoba has shown in studies to be effective in enhancing absorption of other topical drugs. It’s also good for improving the skin barrier with certain skin conditions, such as eczema or atopic dermatitis," says Nazarian. Rub it on your cuticles, use it as a hair mask, add it to your moisturizer—the uses of jojoba oil are endless.
Tea Tree Oil
According to Herrmann, tea tree oil (Melaleuca alternifolia) has been shown to have antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, which means it could also benefit those with acne. Not only that, but tea tree oil could help to kill acne bacteria without promoting antibiotic resistance like antibiotics can. Although side effects showed dryness, peeling and scaling of skin, it is a generally safe option for topical treatment of mild acne, says Nazarian. As an essential oil, tea tree oil would be best diluted first in a carrier oil before being applied to the skin. It's best to test a small area of skin first to ensure you won't develop a reaction, before treating your whole face.
Sunflower Oil
Need a good carrier oil for your essential oils? Sunflower oil is a good choice as it likely improves skin hydration and decreases redness. The non-fragrant plant oil is rich in linoleic acid and other essential fatty acids. Remember, fragrant plant-based oils can cause skin irritation, sensitivity to the sun, and possibly allergic reactions, so be sure to test any essential oils for irritation as well as your carrier oil.
