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    Fodor's Moscow & St. Petersburg
    Fodor's Moscow & St. Petersburg
    Fodor's Moscow & St. Petersburg
    Ebook840 pages9 hours

    Fodor's Moscow & St. Petersburg

    By Fodor's Travel Guides

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    About this ebook

    Fodor's correspondents highlight the best of Moscow and St. Petersburg, including Moscow's modern opulence, St. Petersburg's royal architecture, and top day trips. Our local experts vet every recommendation to ensure you make the most of your time, whether it’s your first trip or your fifth.
    MUST-SEE ATTRACTIONS from the Kremlin to Peterhof Palace
    PERFECT HOTELS for every budget 
    BEST RESTAURANTS to satisfy a range of tastes
    Useful FEATURES on White Nights and the Bolshoi Theatre
    VALUABLE TIPS on when to go and ways to save
    INSIDER PERSPECTIVE from local experts
    Maps and COLOR PHOTOS to guide and inspire your trip
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherFodor's Travel
    Release dateNov 12, 2013
    ISBN9780770432812
    Fodor's Moscow & St. Petersburg
    Author

    Fodor's Travel Guides

    For over 80 years, Fodor's Travel has been a trusted resource offering expert travel advice for every stage of a traveler's trip. We hire local writers who know their destinations better than anyone else, allowing us to provide the best travel recommendations for all tastes and budgets in over 7,500 worldwide destinations. Our books make it possible for every trip to be a trip of a lifetime.

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      Fodor's Moscow & St. Petersburg - Fodor's Travel Guides

      9780770432812.jpgMoscow and St. Petersburg Contents

      Images of Moscow and St. Petersburg

      Moscow and St. Petersburg Maps

      Experience Moscow and St. Petersburg

      Exploring Moscow

      Where to Eat in Moscow

      Where to Stay in Moscow

      Moscow Nightlife and the Arts

      Moscow Shopping

      Side Trips from Moscow

      Exploring St. Petersburg

      Where to Eat in St. Petersburg

      Where to Stay in St. Petersburg

      St. Petersburg Nightlife and the Arts

      St. Petersburg Shopping

      Side Trips from St. Petersburg

      Understanding Russia

      Travel Smart Moscow and St. Petersburg

      About Our Writers

      Credits and Copyright

      Fodo_9780770432812_p00_c02_a01.jpgFodo_9780770432812_p00_c02_a02.jpgFodo_9780770432812_p00_c02_a03.jpgFodo_9780770432812_p00_c02_a04.jpgFodo_9780770432812_p00_c02_a05.jpgFodo_9780770432812_p00_c02_a06.jpgFodo_9780770432812_p00_c02_a07.jpgFodo_9780770432812_p00_c02_a08.jpgFodo_9780770432812_p00_c02_a09.jpgFodo_9780770432812_p00_c02_a10.jpgFodo_9780770432812_p00_c03_ad.jpgMoscow and St. Petersburg Maps

      Main Table of Contents

      Experience Moscow and St. Petersburg

      Moscow’s Historic Center

      St. Petersburg’s Historic Center

      Exploring Moscow

      The Kremlin and Red Square

      Kitai Gorod

      Ulitsa Tverskaya and and Ulitsa Bolshaya Nikitskaya

      Arbat

      Kropotkinsky District and Zamoskvoreche

      Side Trips from Moscow

      Moscow Environs and the Golden Ring

      Troitse-Sergieva Lavra

      Exploring St. Petersburg

      City Center

      Admiralteisky and Vasilievsky Island

      Petrograd Side

      Vladimirskaya and Liteiny/Smolny

      Side Trips from St. Petersburg

      Summer Palaces and Historic Islands

      Peterhof (Petrodvorets)

      Pushkin (Tsarskoye Selo)

      Experience Moscow and St. Petersburg

      Main Table of Contents

      Moscow and St. Petersburg Today

      What’s Where

      Top Attractions: Moscow

      Top Attractions: St. Petersburg

      Top Experiences: Moscow

      Top Experiences: St. Petersburg

      Quintessential Moscow and St. Petersburg

      If You Like ...

      Russian Cruises

      Banya

      Moscow and St. Petersburg Made Easy

      Great Itineraries

      A Walk Through Moscow’s Historic Center

      A Walk Through St. Petersburg’s Historic Center

      Vodka: A Taste of Russia

      Flavors of Moscow and St. Petersburg

      Moscow and St. Petersburg Today

      Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      Russia has come a long way since the breakup of the Soviet Union in 1991, and now visitors have more access to what makes the country so enticing—its rich history, vast expanses of land, and hospitable people. The country is at once exciting, overwhelming, and inviting.

      Economy

      Moscow and St. Petersburg aren’t budget travel destinations. There’s unimaginable wealth in the two cities, despite unnerving poverty in some of the farther regions of Russia’s vast expanse. In Russia, oil and gas are still the biggest games in town, and economic development is directly dependent upon their prices. Despite several economic crises during the past 15 years, Russia’s economy has bounced back and remains fairly stable, meaning the rich do indeed keep getting richer. The infamous business oligarchs who made their money during the post-Soviet privatization of Russia are still around, but the next generation, too, have acquired multimillionaire and billionaire status. All this opulent wealth can’t hide the persistent poverty of these cities. Central Asian immigrants, in particular, come seeking economic stability and a better life only to find they can barely survive on the low wages of street cleaners and construction workers. The Kremlin’s attempts and promises to diversify the economy have, so far, been slow to bring significant results. However, there has been some trickle down, and Russia’s middle class continues to grow. And as their incomes continue to rise, so, too, do the prices in Moscow and St. Petersburg.

      Politics

      If you can’t remember whether Vladimir Putin is president or prime minister, don’t worry. It’s confusing to many Russians, too, since Putin has held one of the two positions since 1999. As of this writing, Putin was again the president of Russia—his third term after a break in between consecutive term limits to switch places with his successor and serve as prime minster.

      But whatever his title, Putin’s political strength and influence call the shots in Russia. Western pundits criticize Putin’s erosion of Russia’s young democracy, but ask most Russians about how they feel about him, and they’re likely to tell you that they admire him and what he’s done for the country. Russians won’t hesitate to complain about the bureaucracy and poor state of much of the cities’ infrastructure, however, and critical voices do exist, although their dissent is usually quashed when it gets too loud, as it happened during the protests that followed the parliamentary elections of 2011. Hundreds of thousands took to the streets of Moscow and other large Russian cities with their symbolic white ribbons pinned to their heavy coats to rally against what they said was a rigged election. Hundreds of the protesters were arrested, and the Kremlin quickly imposed harsher regulations for conducting public protests. When Putin was reelected as president in March 2012, the protests were smaller and lacked the previous vigor—with the notable exception of members of the feminist punk-rock group Pussy Riot, several of whom were arrested for staging and filming a performance in an Orthodox Church to protest its leadership’s support of Putin.

      Meanwhile, anti-American rhetoric amped up after the U.S. said it would ban visas to Russians accused of human rights violations. The Kremlin responded with a ban on all adoptions of Russian orphans by U.S. citizens. The good news is that most visitors are unlikely to be affected by the tit-for-tat between Washington and Moscow, and most Russians will avoid uncomfortable political talk with guests.

      In 2013, President Putin signed a bill into law that criminalized so-called homosexual propaganda. This caused controversy when it happened, and time will reveal the consequences.

      Olympic Fever

      The Olympic committee surprised the world when it chose the southern Russian city of Sochi to host the 2014 Winter Games. Russians greeted the news with less surprise, however. Sochi was a favorite winter destination during Soviet times, and was repopularized when Putin’s ski trips there were broadcast on state news channels. The remaking of Sochi and its surroundings continues with much to-do about controversial government spending and questionable project tenders. Some estimates put a $15-billion price tag on the project of turning Sochi into a smooth-running Olympic operation. But in Moscow and St. Petersburg, Olympic pride has taken hold. Bosco Sports, a Russian sports clothing line and one of the official sponsors of the events, has opened stores around the country to sell some of the Team Russia paraphernalia.

      Religion

      The Russian Orthodox Church is experiencing a new surge in believers after having an on-again, off-again relationship with its congregation for decades. During the years of the Soviet Union, the church—and religion in general—was forbidden at times and used to manipulate nationalist sentiment during others. Today, many previously destroyed churches have been reconstructed, the most notable of these being the sparkling Cathedral of Christ Our Savior in Moscow. Ethnic Russians make up about 80% of the country’s 142 million population, and polls show that some 90% of them say they’re part of the Orthodox Church. This holds true even with the younger crowd. It’s not uncommon to see hip, twentysomethings standing in line at the Kazan Cathedral in St. Petersburg to kiss an icon, or trying to squeeze a place inside a golden-domed church in Moscow during a crowded Easter service. Religion can still get political in Russia. State-run news channels don’t hesitate to show Putin in photo ops with heads of the church.

      Tearing Down the Past

      It’s not immediately apparent that there’s a vicious war raging behind the massive amounts of construction happening in both St. Petersburg and Moscow. What some see as progress, others see as the destruction of Russian architectural heritage. Preservationists accuse the St. Petersburg government of giving the go-ahead to Gazprom and other big investors to build modern office buildings that will ruin Peter the Great’s European feel. In Moscow, the fight has been particularly contentious as the city’s skyline continues to be dominated by massive construction cranes. Former Mayor Yuri Luzhkov, who lost his job in 2010, was in office during the destruction of some 400 architecturally significant buildings in the capital. Lushkov’s billionaire wife, Elena Baturina, and her construction company, Inteco, contributed to the lucrative buildup of the city, adding to accusations of corruption. In both cities, activist groups have formed to try to put a stop to the great teardown.

      Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      What’s Where

      Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      Moscow. Cosmopolitan in flavor, Russia’s capital exudes prosperity and vigor. From Stalin’s carved-marble metro stations to the sprawl of modern business complexes, Moscow flaunts its ambition with a penchant for going over the top. It’s an all-night-party town whose days offer endless opportunities for those who can keep up. A merchant capital by birth, Moscow was fashioned for big spenders, and money has always made the wheels go ‘round here. Now counted as one of the world’s most expensive cities, the only possible limit is the size of your wallet.

      Moscow Environs and the Golden Ring. In the 12th to 14th centuries, the Golden Ring cities were the most important political, religious, and commercial centers in Russia before Moscow usurped all power. Nowadays these ancient enclaves are perfect destinations for rolling back the centuries. A visit to their medieval convents, ancient trade chambers, and kremlins is like stepping into a living encyclopedia of Russian culture, complete with picture-postcard views of onion-domed churches set on the banks of the Volga River.

      St. Petersburg. Serenity and reflection reign in this city. Tsars don’t rush—it would be undignified. St. Petersburg was founded as the new capital of the Russian Empire in 1703 by Peter the Great and still carries itself with austere regal grace. The city built on the marshy banks of the Neva River today attracts more tourists than anywhere else in Russia. A brilliant fusion created by Italian and French architects, St. Petersburg invites comparisons with Amsterdam, Venice, and Stockholm. The big attractions here are the pastimes of the nobility—artwork, classical concerts, ballet, and idyllic promenading in the 19th-century landscape.

      Summer Palaces and Historic Islands. Several of St. Petersburg’s imperial summer residences have been meticulously restored to their original splendor, and the sheer opulence is stunning. Peterhof’s (Petrodvorets) park is Russia’s answer to Versailles, while Catherine’s Palace at Pushkin (Tsarskoye Selo) houses the legendary Amber Room. Lomonosov (Oranienbaum), a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the Konstantine Palace have both undergone restoration and are great places for a summer stroll or picnic. The islands of Kronshtadt and Vallam showcase another side of the city’s history.

      Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      Top Attractions: Moscow

      Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      Red Square

      No matter how many times you walk on the uneven cobblestones of Red Square, the view is awe-inspiring and the experience monumental. Stand in the center and let your mind wander as centuries of Russian history unfold in the architecture. Tsars were crowned and traitors beheaded just outside of St. Basil’s Cathedral’s colorful domes. Soviet tanks once rolled ceremoniously across as Stalin surveyed from the sidelines, and Lenin’s mausoleum is still guarded by stern-faced soldiers.

      The Kremlin and Armory Chamber

      The first walls of the Kremlin were erected more than 850 years ago and continue to symbolize Russian power today. Don’t miss the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Alexander Gardens, a popular place for newlyweds to have their first photo taken. The Armory Chamber is the jewel of the Kremlin and contains one of the richest collections of silver, gold, diamonds, and Fabergé eggs in the country. Several halls display more than 4,000 artifacts dating back to the 12th century, including diamond-encrusted coronation thrones and extravagant Russian armor.

      Bolshoi Theatre

      Moscow’s oldest—and most famous—theater recently reopened after a complete renovation that took six years. Watching a ballet performance of a Russian classic, such as Tchaikovsky’s Nutcracker, on the main stage is unforgettable.

      Tretyakov Gallery

      Wander through the rooms of Old Tretyakov’s extraordinary collection of famous Russian icons, landscapes, and portraits housed in an early-20th-century building that feels more like a castle. The museum boasts one of the largest and most renowned collections of work from the prerevolutionary Russian realists known as the Wanderers.

      Gorky Park

      After a recent renovation, this Park of Culture has once again become a very popular spot for Muscovites. The dilapidated Soviet buildings and Ferris wheel have been torn down and replaced with modern art galleries, cafés, and playgrounds. Young and old will find plenty to do here, from simply strolling around the vast green space to renting paddleboats, bicycles, or rollerblades. There are concerts and art shows in the summer, and snowboarding and ice skating in the winter.

      Lenin Mausoleum

      If the imposing marble exterior of this Soviet-era iconic structure doesn’t intimate you, the soldiers standing guard inside might. The stern guards are there to watch over Vladimir Lenin’s embalmed body and ensure visitors maintain a respectful silence around the former leader of the Russian Revolution. Gigglers will be scolded. While admittedly morbid, the experience of seeing one of modern history’s most noteworthy figures is certainly a can’t-miss Moscow sight.

      Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts

      Opened in 1912, the museum holds Moscow’s largest collection of European art. Broken up into several wings, it contains both rotating and permanent collections of fine art and archeological treasures from Central Asia to Europe. The private collections wing has some outstanding art collected over the years by prominent Russian collectors.

      Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      Top Attractions: St. Petersburg

      Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      Palace Square and the State Hermitage Museum

      Russia’s other historic square is the heart of its imperial past, as well as the host to pivotal moments in Tsarist Russia’s demise. On Bloody Sunday in 1905, palace guards shot dead hundreds of peaceful protestors here, sparking the first of Russia’s revolutions. Housed in the pastel green and white Winter Palace, the Hermitage museum contains one of the world’s most important art collections. On par with the Louvre, the collection is housed in what was once the tsars’ family residence.

      Peter and Paul Fortress

      Peter the Great built the fortress in 1703 to defend Russia from the Swedes, making it the oldest building in the city. Inside the fortress walls, the cathedral’s gilded 400-foot spire is one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks.

      St. Isaac’s Cathedral

      It took more than 40 years to complete the world’s third-largest domed cathedral, now the dominant feature of St. Petersburg’s skyline. Climb up the 262 steps of the colonnade to get a spectacular panoramic view of the city.

      Nevsky Prospekt

      This main drag is the center of the action (day or night) in Russia’s second city. Frequently described by Dostoyevsky in Crime and Punishment, the street is often compared to Paris’s Champs-Élysées and contains some of St. Petersburg’s most impressive imperial Russian buildings, including the Stroganov Palace and the Kazan Cathedral. Don’t miss the shopping arcade at Gostiny Dvor.

      Alexander Nevsky Lavra

      Peter the Great had this Russian Orthodox monastery built in 1710 and named it after the Russian prince who defeated invading Swedes in 1240. Today the lavra still contains impressive baroque churches and a neoclassical cathedral. Most visitors go to see the graves of several of Russia’s greatest names, including Tchaikovsky and Dostoyevsky.

      The State Museum

      Housed in a former grand duke’s palace, the Russian Museum (as it’s known to locals) doesn’t get the attention that the Hermitage collection does, but in most Russians’ minds, it should. The museum is best known for its collection of paintings, which contains some of Russian art’s greatest masters, such as Kandinsky and Chagall. The park behind the museum makes a lovely spot to reflect on what tsarist St. Petersburg might have been like.

      Peterhof and Pushkin summer palaces

      A hydrofoil cruise on the Gulf of Finland to Peterhof’s cascading fountains and lavish gardens gets you in an imperial mood. The ornate, golden interiors and recently reconstructed Amber Room of the 18th-century Catherine’s Palace at Pushkin (Tsarskoye Selo) offer a look into the extravagance of the Russian royal family.

      Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      Top Experiences: Moscow

      Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      Ride the Moscow metro

      The efficiency of Stalin’s metro system contradicts the standstill of Russian bureaucracy. The vast system transports about 9 million passengers a day, and the frequency and regularity of the trains put New York’s and London’s underground systems to shame. You could spend hours just riding the rails as a sight-seeing visitor, stopping to gaze up at the mosaic ceilings at Komsomolskaya or to ogle Ploshchad Revolyutsii’s bronzed statues of beefy Soviet workers, farmers, and soldiers.

      See and be seen at a Moscow café

      European-style coffee joints and, yes, Starbucks have taken over downtown Moscow. It seems endless spouts of caffeine are energizing the whole city. Cafés now provide space for high-powered business meetings as well as hangout spots for the younger blogging set. Coffee Mania on Bolshoi Nikitskaya was one of the first European-style cafés to burst onto the scene and remains one of the favorites of Moscow’s trendsetters and arty elite.

      Take a walk

      Muscovites know how to take advantage of the city’s green spaces and parks in a city rushed with ambition and development. Russians old or young see a good, long stroll with friends as the best way to dive into the day’s gossip or spend time with aging grandparents. Slowly cruise down the Boulevard Ring’s renovated green walkways and you’ll pass young lovers kissing on benches and pairs of babushkas discussing the latest price increases at neighborhood shops.

      Shop ‘til you drop

      A touristy market that’s often full of Muscovites as well, Ismailovsky is a one-stop spot for souvenirs, antiques, and Russian kitsch. Wander through the aisles of wooden stalls to find everything from old Soviet posters, samovars, and fur hats to Central Asian carpets.

      Celebrate winter

      Muscovites love the cold and thrive in it. One of the best ways to celebrate a crisp winter day or evening is to get on the ice and show off your inner Irina Slutskaya (the Olympic medalist hails from Moscow, by the way). Several city parks have rinks where you can rent a pair of skates for a few dollars. Gorky Park and Patriarch’s Ponds (Patriashy Prudi) are some of the best in the center. Grab your partner’s hand and skate around the rink, or try and join in on a pickup game of ice hockey.

      Party all night long

      If partying is your pastime, Moscow is sure to satisfy. This is an all-night party town with enough energy to keep the beat going for as long as your dancing shoes can hold up. Party with the elite and wannabe elite at one of the city’s thumping nightclubs, many of which boast brand-name DJs and serious face control. Or relax with friends in a small, smoky student café with blaring Russified reggae. But don’t be surprised if you end up out on the town until the sun comes up.

      Get out of town

      Russians who live outside Moscow love to criticize the capital for being out of touch with the real Russia. Test out their theory by taking a breather ifn one of the picturesque cities along the Volga River. Even if your Russian language skills are limited to spacibo (thank you), you’ll find the culture and people of the Golden Ring cities to be notably more open and friendly and the delicately painted golden domes and colorful wooden houses are worth a look.

      Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      Top Experiences: St. Petersburg

      Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      Celebrate White Nights

      May and June’s long daylight hours breathe festive energy into St. Petersburg after months of bitter cold. During these days, the sun sets only long enough to leave a dim glow and St. Petersburg stays up all night, too. These are the peak tourist weeks, and festivals and parties abound. A fireworks show on the last night of the White Nights festival lights up the sky.

      Cruise St. Petersburg’s canals

      Peter the Great intended for St. Petersburg to be one of the leading cities of Europe. One of the best ways to see his Venice-like creation is via the waterways of the city’s man-made canals. Most cruises pass by the city’s top attractions, while giving you time to pick up on the little details of the city’s grand and ornate buildings and bridges. Guided tours in English will lead you as you inch by the former residences of nobility, artists, and writers.

      Soak up some sun

      St. Petersburg knows how to take advantage of the generous daylight granted to it in the short summer months. Generations of expert sunbathers have perfected the art of the even tan by soaking in the sun along the sandy beach on the Neva just outside the walls of Peter and Paul Fortress. But you won’t find them flipping around on beach towels. Locals will tell you that standing is the only way to get an even tan when you only have a few months of summer. And small bikinis are the norm, so don’t be surprised to see grandfathers catching rays in Speedos.

      Attend world-class performances at reasonable prices

      For opera and ballet lovers, seeing a performance by the world-renowned Kirov Ballet and Opera companies is a must. The companies, which are called the Mariinsky companies at home in Russia, perform in the imperially grand and sparkling Mariinsky Theatre. The green and white theater, built in the mid-19th century, has been the cultural hub of Russia since tsarist times. Tickets can be bought online, usually at half the price of one of their traveling performances.

      Get caught on the wrong side of the bridge

      Commerce on the Neva River is a prime source of revenue for St. Petersburg. During the warmer months, from the end of April to November, the bridge’s roads are closed to traffic and the drawbridges are raised to let large ships pass through, starting at around 1:30 am. Night owls and pub crawlers who miss the cutoff get stuck on the other side until the bridges are lowered and they can head home. Boat tours during the bridge openings offer a unique perspective on the process.

      Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      Quintessential Moscow and St. Petersburg

      Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      Festivals

      Rio and Venice may have their colorful carnivals, but Russians have something no less amazing up their sleeves—Maslenitsa, or Shrovetide, celebrated on the last week before Lent on the Julian calendar.

      Today Shrovetide is a rambunctious outdoor spring festival where Russians indulge in dressing up and wild singing and dancing. Russian blini (pancakes), golden and round to symbolize the sun, are served in virtually every eatery across the nation during this week.

      The White Nights Festival takes place in St. Petersburg at the end of June. Named in honor of the remarkably long days around the summer solstice, the festival features performances by Russia’s top ballet, opera, and musical ensembles, as well as a massive fireworks display once the sun finally does set.

      Epic Food

      In Russian folk tales, amorous admirers ply their sweethearts with pryaniki pechatnie (printed gingerbreads). This ancient Russian culinary delight is a baked sweet pastry filled with honey or jam and flavored with spices; try it at any bakery.

      While gingerbread might have done the trick in the olden days, caviar is one of the preferred methods of impressing your darling in modern Russia. It’s sold everywhere, from grocery stores to local markets called rynoks. The best caviar comes from the beluga variety of sturgeon. It’s silvery gray, uniform in size and shape, and tastes like a million bucks.

      Another favorite is kvas, a refreshing nonalcoholic drink. Kvas, which literally translates as sour drink, is made with fermented rye bread and is a renowned hangover remedy.

      Vodka

      Social lubricant and vice of choice for centuries, the national drink is produced by hundreds of brands and comes in many flavor varieties. A few of the best labels are Flagman, Russky Standart, Beluga, and Beloye Zoloto. If straight shots aren’t your thing, flavored vodkas can help take the edge off. Limonnaya, slightly sweet lemon-flavor vodka, is particularly tasty, as is spicy pertsovka, infused with peppercorns and chilies.

      At the bar, toasts such as Vashe zdorovie! (To your health!) and clinking glasses accompany every shot as do zakuski (appetizers) chasers, which vary from humble pickles to fine caviar. For reasons shrouded in the mists of time, empty bottles are considered bad luck and are immediately discarded or put on the floor, so watch your step and mind your manners.

      Banya

      Sweaty people whipping themselves with wet bundles of birch twigs in a room full of steam may sound like purgatory or sadomasochism. But for Russians the banya experience is the way to nirvana and longevity. Most people in Russia believe the excruciating wet heat of the banya makes you shed toxins ultrafast, through heavy sweating, and that it rejuvenates the internal organs. If you’re willing to give it a try, Moscow’s ornate Sandunovskiye bani is the gold standard.

      The banya also appears in an ancient Russian legend. In the year 945, Olga, widow of Kievan prince Igor, lured his murderers—the elite corps of an East Slavic tribe of Drevlyane—into a banya and set the bathhouse on fire. Meet Russia’s first saint.

      Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      If You Like . ..

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      Palaces and Estates

      Lovers of all things beautiful and luxurious shouldn’t miss Russia’s imperial estates and palaces. Far from frugal, the tsars truly went all out when it came to their residences. Hiring the world’s best architects and using literally tons of gold, marble, and semiprecious stones was only the beginning—these palaces and estates are truly Russian in size as well. Most were built close to Moscow and St. Petersburg as the tsars’ summer residences and are therefore just a day trip away from the major cities.

      Peterhof (Petrodvorets). Nicknamed the Russian Versailles, the elaborate interiors, formal gardens, and beautiful fountains of Peter the Great’s summer palace live up to their moniker. This is St. Petersburg’s most famous imperial residence, located in the suburbs about 40 minutes away.

      Pushkin (Tsarskoye Selo). This St. Petersburg palace, with its richly decorated baroque facade, was the favorite residence of the last Russian tsar, Nicholas II. Its main draw is the turquoise and gold Catherine’s Palace, home to the sumptuous Amber Room.

      Romanov Palace Chambers in Zaryadye. Located in Moscow’s historic Kitai Gorod neighborhood, this palace-museum gives a taste of the luxurious boyar lifestyle, including period costume, furniture, and household items.

      Kuskovo. Pastel pink and neoclassical in style, this estate just outside of Moscow was once the summer residence of the Sheremetyevs, one of Russia’s wealthiest and most distinguished families. It also houses the celebrated Kuskovo State Ceramics museum.

      Ballet

      Classical ballet is the only art form that never really went dissident in Russia. The last tsar, Nicholas II, fell for the charms of ballerina Matilda Kshessinskaya, and from then on, through the Communist era and into the Putin years, ballet and especially ballerinas have been beyond criticism and free from oppression. As ballet has continued to thrive under state sponsorship, it’s become an essential part of any official visit, as much a part of protocol as a trip to the war memorials.

      Russian ballet is known for its exquisite blend of expressiveness, technique, and ethereal flair. Visiting ballet professionals envy both coordination and torso, the two strongest elements of Russian ballet training. Russian classical ballet, with its antique poetic charm, has preserved its precious legacy without becoming old-fashioned. New stars, such as the amazing Nikolai Tsiskaridze, inject new life into one of Russia’s oldest and most respected arts.

      Swan Lake. See this signature ballet at the Bolshoi (Moscow) or Mariinsky (St. Petersburg) theaters.

      Sleeping Beauty. This marvel of 19th-century choreography has been meticulously restored in its original form at the Mariinsky Theatre in St. Petersburg.

      The Nutcracker. The Bolshoi, Mariinsky, and other companies perform this Christmas classic year-round.

      Vaganova Ballet Academy in St. Petersburg. Russia’s most prestigious classical ballet academy is alma mater to Anna Pavlova, George Balanchine, and Mikhail Baryshnikov. It has a wonderful museum.

      Exploring the Communist Legacy

      Attitudes toward Soviet times are complex, with many people of all ages regarding them as the good old days. Soviet themes and symbols are everywhere, from old monuments and inscriptions on buildings to the red star, which is still the symbol of the Russian armed forces.

      Gulag Museum, Moscow. The small museum provides a harrowing look into one of Russia’s most brutal histories. Tens of millions of Soviet citizens were subjected to the harsh life of these labor camps, which played a major role in the USSR’s political oppression.

      Lenin’s Mausoleum, Moscow. Vladimir Lenin has lain in state here since his death in 1924.

      Museum of the Contemporary History of Russia, Moscow. If you’re a Soviet history buff, you’ll enjoy this museum’s collection of USSR propaganda posters, velvet flags, and socialist worker’s medals.

      The Seven Sisters, Moscow. The seven legendary skyscrapers that dominate Moscow’s skyline were constructed just after World War II by Stalin as a symbol of Soviet power at the beginning of the Cold War.

      Russian Political History Museum, St. Petersburg. The museum documents all aspects of the Communist past, from the paraphernalia of spying to propaganda.

      All-Russian Exhibition Center, Moscow. This exhibition park, also known by its Russian acronym VDNkH, is the ultimate example of Soviet glorification. The center opened in 1959, with each former Soviet republic building its own pavilion to show off their achievements in agriculture, industrialization, and communization.

      Porcelain and Folk Art

      When Catherine the Great ordered her elaborate dinner service from the renowned Imperial Porcelain Manufacturer, porcelain was the exclusive preserve of aristocrats. But since then it’s become almost every Russian’s favorite gift.

      In addition to porcelain, Russia also has a large number of other folk handicrafts, such as Gzhel ceramics, Palekh boxes, and, of course, the ubiquitous matryoshka nesting dolls.

      Lomonosov Porcelain Factory. Arguably the most famous porcelain manufacturer in Russia, this St. Petersburg gem was founded in 1744 and owned for a time by the Romanovs. Its patented and instantly recognizable cobalt-blue pattern lends a distinctly Russian flavor to any event.

      Palekh Boxes. These beautiful hand-painted lacquer boxes are handicrafts of the Golden Ring towns. Typically a fairy-tale scene adorns the box top, but images of landscapes, battle scenes, or even poetry can be found. They require about two months to create and the finer details are drawn using a special brush made from a squirrel’s tail.

      Gzhel Ceramics. First manufactured in the village of Gzhel outside Moscow in the 6th century, this famous white-and-blue pottery may be Russia’s oldest folk art.

      Matryoshka. Dating from 1890, these nesting dolls are a relatively new Russian handicraft. The largest wooden doll opens to reveal ever-smaller wooden figures inside. They usually depict red-cheeked, brightly dressed peasant women, although matryoshkas can be purchased featuring everyone from Soviet leaders to Star Wars characters.

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      Russian Cruises

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      The Volga River is the longest river in Europe and it’s so important to the Russian psyche that it is often referred to as the Mother Volga. Its majestic waterways wind through some of Russia’s most scenic and historical cities, passing golden onion domes of centuries-old monasteries and white brick walls of kremlins that once held equal power to Moscow’s.

      Exploring the heart of Russia on a river cruise is a memorable—and relaxing—part of any trip to the region—and it’s an excellent alternative to train or plane travel between Moscow and St. Petersburg. Cruises are usually eight to 14 days long, working their way along the Volga and Neva Rivers and their tributaries, and making stops along the way for guided tours of the sites.

      Whether you start in Moscow or St. Petersburg, your cruise is likely to make the same stops and will include some of Russia’s most impressive countryside scenes and classic architectural gems. Many of the cruise lines offer elaborate meals and accommodations, but the scenery is sure to be the highlight of the cruise.

      Popular Stops

      Uglich. This Golden Ring city was once a small princedom of its own until it was sold to the Duchy of Moscow in the 13th century. Today it’s most famous as the site of the mysterious murder of Ivan the Terrible’s son inside the kremlin walls. Apart from the kremlin, there are several other stunning examples of medieval Russian artchitecutre, including the Assumption three-tented church.

      Yaroslay. One of Russia’s most well-known Golden Ring cities, Yaroslav was founded in the 11th century by its namesake, Yaroslav the Wise. It is now a World Heritage Site known for its impressive examples of old Russian church architecture.

      Kirillo-Belozersky Monastery. Saint Cyril founded this spectacular structure in the 14th century. It was once the largest monastery in Northern Russia.

      Kizhi. This island in Lake Onega is famed for its breathtaking wooden churches with silver domes.

      Planning Your Cruise

      Most cruise lines offer tours between May and October. Prices range between $1,500 and $10,000, depending on the length of the cruise and the level of luxury. Most cruises can be booked directly through the cruise company or by a travel agent. Either way, plan well in advance since trips in high season can get booked up as much as a year in advance.

      Viking Cruises and Volga Dream are two of the better known companies operating the Moscow-St. Petersburg route. Contact the companies or a travel agent for booking information and availability.

      Viking Cruises. | 855/338-4546 | www.vikingcruises.com.

      Volga Dream. | 703/763-4614 | www.volgadream.com.

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      Banya

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      Banya Basics

      Few of Russia’s traditions are as steeped in ritual than a trip to the banya, a sauna-style bathhouse where the steam is produced by throwing a steady supply of water over heated rocks. In fact, for many banya lovers a trip to the bathhouse is almost a religious experience, complete with birch twigs for self-flagellation (to open pores and promote circulation). The banya is a cultural tradition that became popular in the 17th century, when attending a communal bath was the only way for many Russians to stay clean. Today, it’s still believed to have therapeutic benefits and is also valued as a place to relax, socialize, and even do business. Many find that a visit to one is a highlight of a trip to Russia.

      Banya Basics

      Keep in mind that men and women are separated, although families and couples can hire a private bath for use together, and soap is strictly forbidden (the steam is supposed to clean you). To prepare best for the Russian banya, go to the Sandunovskiye bani’s website (www.sanduny.ru) and read the secrets section (available in English). Here are a few easy steps that will help you get the best steam possible:

      1. Check yourself: If you have low or high blood pressure, a heart ailment, or some other health issue, you may want to stay away. Pregnant women and asthma sufferers are advised to do the same.

      2. Check In: After paying the entrance fee, your valuables are handed to a special attendant who puts them in a locker and watches over them. Theft is rare, but you may be better off leaving valuables in a hotel safe. Tipping is customary, generally 50R–150R for the attendant, 300R–500R for a good masseur. You’ll then be given a towel and assigned a locker for your clothes. Bring a pair of flip-flops to walk around in.

      3. Sweat it out: Banya fans believe that steaming helps combat respiratory problems, aids in circulation, and opens the pores to help rid you of toxins—that’s why the steam room is kept at a toasty 90°C (194°F). Have a seat on one of the benches lining the walls. You can wrap yourself in a towel but most bathers in gender-segregated rooms go nude. Towels are, however, very useful for sitting on. And don’t overdo it: 10–15 minutes is more than enough for your first time.

      4. Cool down: Once you feel sufficiently steamed, dunk yourself in the pool, barrel, or bucket of icy water provided. If you don’t get your body temperature down, your next trip to the steam room won’t be much fun.

      5. Relax: The banya will probably have a relaxation zone with couches, cold drinks, and even meals. While the ultra-Russian ambience might seem ideal for doing a shot or two of vodka, keep in mind that you’ll be dehydrated. Stick to beer, juice, or best of all, water.

      6. Repeat steps 3–5: Once you’re rested, reenter the steam room. You’ll likely sweat more this time. Repeat the process as many times as you see fit, and when you’re done, give your neighbors the traditional post-banya salutation: s lyokhim parom—may your steam be light!

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      Moscow and St. Petersburg Made Easy

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      Airports and Visas

      All foreigners, except citizens of some former Soviet republics, need a visa to visit Russia. An official invitation is required to apply for a visa. The invitation can be issued by a Russian citizen, or, more commonly, from an official tour agency or company. Processing fees, times, and additional visa application needs vary according to the issuing consulate or embassy.

      Flying into Russia has gotten remarkably easier, thanks to several major U.S. and European carriers that now have direct flights from hub cities like New York, Atlanta, Washington, D.C., London, and Frankfurt. Moscow’s airports make international travel even easier with airport trains that whisk you to the center of the city within 30–40 minutes. St. Petersburg’s newly expanded Pulkovo Airport is catching up with the number of international carriers flying in.

      Customs of the Country

      Russians, particularly Muscovites, have a reputation for being cold and unfriendly, but extremely hospitable to guests invited into their homes. This is indeed the case, and should you be invited to a meal at a Russian friend’s house be sure to say yes; you’re likely to make friends for life. Russians tend to dress more formally than in the West. You won’t see super baggy jeans even on teenagers. Men don’t always wear a coat and tie, but they’ll usually wear a jacket to upscale restaurants. Women dress femininely, and rarely adopt the casual, tomboyish look popular in the West. They take great pride in how they appear, even in winter when the attire is heavy fur coats, hats, scarves, and gloves; they often wear heels even when there’s an inch of ice on the sidewalk.

      Eating Out

      While only the wealthy dine out in the Russian provinces, in Moscow and St. Petersburg you’ll likely need a reservation for many restaurants. Most restaurants are open from noon to 11 pm, and Russians tend to dine around 8 pm or later. Your choices of cuisine are plentiful, but sushi has been all the rage for several years. It’s not uncommon to see a separate sushi menu, even at an Italian restaurant. Business lunches are popular in the cities, and you can often get good deals on set menus that include a soup, salad, and main dish, as well as coffee or tea. Breakfasts tend to be smaller, except in some hotels that offer American-style breakfast. Otherwise, simple omelets, fried eggs, yogurt, and pastries are common menu items. Cafés are springing up everywhere and can easily provide a quick snack or simple meal.

      Greetings

      Russian men shake hands for business, and may throw one hand around the back of a friend for a brotherly, quick hug. Some Russian men have adopted the European habit of kissing a woman’s cheeks, but it’s not that common on the first meeting. Russians consider it bad luck to shake hands or pass anything across a threshold, so be sure to step inside first. And if you’re presenting flowers to a Russian, remember that an even number of flowers in a bouquet is for funerals only, so skip the dozen roses.

      Language

      Russian is the national language. Outside of Moscow and St. Petersburg, you’ll have a hard time getting by without knowing a little more than the basics. In the cities, however, many people, particularly those under 40, use English in their daily lives. In hotels and more popular restaurants, you’re not likely to have a problem communicating the essentials. But public transportation and smaller museums and shops will be a challenge. While the Cyrillic alphabet looks daunting, it’s actually not that difficult to learn enough to find your way around, particularly in the metro. Russians know their language is difficult and appreciate foreigners’ efforts to try to speak it. In both cities, you’re likely to run into people who are more than happy to practice their English with you.

      Money and Shopping

      The Russian ruble has had its ups and downs over the last decade, but is—for now—stable at about 30R to the $1. Moscow and St. Petersburg are expensive, and it’s easy to run up high restaurant bills. Other things, like public transportation, are extremely affordable. Russian law dictates that all prices be quoted in rubles. Tip in rubles;

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