Fodor's Chicago
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TOURISM TRENDS:
- The COVID-19 pandemic in 2020 and 2021 caused a steep drop-off in tourism to many destinations, but domestic travel has already begun to return to normal levels. The number of Americans traveling is expected to increase further in late 2021 and into 2022.
FULLY REDESIGNED!
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Reviews for Fodor's Chicago
13 ratings1 review
- Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Read this in anticipation of my trip to Chicago this summer. Gave me a sense of the city and the things I want to put on my itinerary.
Book preview
Fodor's Chicago - Fodor's Travel Guides
18 ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES
Chicago offers terrific experiences that should be on every traveler’s list. Here are Fodor’s top picks for a memorable trip.
1 Explore the Park
Millennium Park is a 25-acre public green space filled with art and right on North Michigan Avenue in the Loop. See the stainless-steel mirrored Cloud Gate, the Frank Gehry-designed band shell, and the Crown Fountain. (Ch. 3 )
2 Learn About Architecture
For an immersive look at Chicago’s architectural history, book a walking tour with the Chicago Architecture Center. (Ch. 2)
3 See Beautiful Art
From one of the world’s largest collection of French Impressionist paintings to blockbuster exhibitions, the Art Institute is a must-not-miss for art lovers. (Ch. 3)
4 Roar at the Zoo
Brookfield Zoo often gets all the glory but Lincoln Park Zoo is free, centrally located, and hugs the city’s scenic lakefront. (Ch. 6)
5 Shop the Mag Mile
Michigan Avenue’s famous Magnificent Mile draws avid shoppers its upscale shops, luxury malls, and top-notch restaurants. The architecture here is stunning as well. (Ch. 4)
6 Bike the Lakefront
See some of the biggest attractions in the city by riding down Chicago’s glorious 18-mile long Lakefront Trail. (Ch. 3)
7 Laugh It Up
If you adore Saturday Night Live, then you must catch a Second City comedy show. Joan Rivers, Tina Fey, Bill Murray, and Mike Myers are all Second City alums. (Ch. 6)
8 Explore History
The Field Museum of Natural History has amazing exhibits, like Sue the T. rex, a 67-million-year-old complete fossil found in South Dakota. (Ch. 3)
9 Discover Pilsen
Celebrate the city’s Hispanic heritage in the Pilsen neighborhood. Visit the National Museum of Mexican Art, eat great Mexican food, and admire outdoor murals. (Ch. 5)
10 Get Your Science On
The Museum of Science & Industry has stellar permanent collections as well as rotating exhibits. Must-sees include Apollo 8’s command module. (Ch. 8)
11 Eat Deep-Dish Pizza
Chi-town’s signature pizza style is super-thick, composed of layers of sauce and cheese. And if that’s not indulgent enough for you, opt for a stuffed version.
12 Tour Historic Houses
Illinois’ most famous architect—Frank Lloyd Wright—is widely known for his Prairie style of architecture. Visit his birthplace in Oak Park and tour his most notable houses. (Ch. 9)
13 Cheer the Cubs
The Cubbies have always been a draw but even more so now after their historic World Series win in 2016. Wrigley Field—built in 1914—is a local legend. (Ch. 6)
14 Drink with a View
Grab a drink and admire the views at the 96th floor Signature Lounge in the former John Hancock Center (now called 360 Chicago). (Ch. 4)
15 Explore the Oceans
Shedd Aquarium is for anyone who is curious about the mammals and fish who occupy oceans and freshwater lakes. (Ch. 3)
16 Willis Skydeck
Take the ear-popping ride to the 103rd floor of the Willis Tower, where on a clear day you can see as far as Michigan, Wisconsin, and Indiana. (Ch. 3)
17 Hear Live Music
Chicago’s rep as a jazz and blues destination hasn’t hit a bad note—ever. In addition to summer music festivals, the city is littered with live music venues.
18 Sail the Chicago River
There are many ways to get out on the water in downtown Chicago. Take one of the many fascinating boat cruises, or rent a kayak or canoe. (Ch. 1)
WHAT’S WHERE
dingbat The Loop, West Loop, and South Loop. Bounded by El tracks, the city’s business center is full of architectural landmarks. Restaurants and galleries dominate the West Loop; the South Loop now teems with college students and condo dwellers.
dingbat Near North and River North. Shoppers stroll the Magnificent Mile between the stately tower at 875 N. Michigan Ave. (formerly the John Hancock Center, the name most locals still use) and the Chicago River, passing landmarks such as the Water Tower and Tribune Tower. Just north, stately mansions dominate the Gold Coast, while River North has a thriving gallery scene.
dingbat Lincoln Park and Wicker Park. Beyond its huge park, Lincoln Park boasts cafés and high-end boutiques, while Wicker Park, Bucktown, and Logan Square have become increasingly trendy, with cafés, cocktail bars, and cool shops.
dingbat Lakeview and Far North Side. Baseball fans pilgrimage to Wrigley Field: just south of the ballpark, on Clark Street, are memorabilia shops and sports bars; two blocks east is Halsted Street, epicenter of gay enclave Boystown, now called Northalsted. Farther north is Swedish-settled Andersonville, which has a quiet, residential feel.
dingbat Pilsen, Little Italy, and Chinatown. Mexican restaurants, mom-and-pop shops, and Spanish signage line 18th Street, the heart of Pilsen. Gone are many of the Near West Side’s Italian groceries and shops, but you can still get a mean veal marsala on Taylor Street. In Chinatown, check out the restaurants, teahouses, and bakeries.
dingbat Hyde Park. The big draw of this South Side neighborhood is the University of Chicago, while Promontory Point has breathtaking lake and skyline views.
dingbat Day Trips From Chicago. Just outside the city, Evanston is the site of Northwestern University and its leafy campus. Suburban Oak Park is known for native sons Frank Lloyd Wright and Ernest Hemingway; Wright’s home and studio are here, along with notable examples of his architecture.
Chicago Today
A century ago, poet Carl Sandburg called Chicago the stormy, husky, brawling / city of the Big Shoulders
in an eponymous poem that still echoes city life today. Indeed, Chicago is stormier and huskier than ever, with political scandals breaking more frequently than the El train circles the Loop. But it’s also cleaner, greener, and more urbane than expected—with bold new architecture, abundant green spaces, and a vibrant dining scene. So what will you find when you visit: a rough-and-tumble Midwestern town or a sophisticated metropolis? The answer is both, and much, much more.
BUILDING AND REBUILDING
The imposing skyline dominates postcards and tourist snapshots—and for good reason. Architecture fans are excited to see the city that Daniel Burnham, Louis Sullivan, and Frank Lloyd Wright built, but modern development has also brought new energy. Recent years have seen the birth of the Millennium Park lakefront, an overhaul of the Riverwalk, and major new additions to the skyline such as the Aqua residential skyscraper and the 101-story St. Regis Chicago. Development doesn’t come without controversy, however. Some older buildings have been torn down to make way for the new, and preservationists decry each loss of a historic building to the wrecking ball.
POLITICAL MACHINE
Rahm Emanuel surprised observers by declining to seek a third term as mayor in 2019. His successor, Lori Lightfoot, is the first Black woman to hold the office, as well as the first openly gay mayor. In 2020, Lightfoot earned praise for her handling of the Covid-19 pandemic in its early days, but her response to the surge of Black Lives Matter protests that summer, after George Floyd was killed by police in Minneapolis—prioritizing the protection of property in wealthy neighborhoods—angered many. Lightfoot, who was president of the Chicago Police Board before she ran for office, is frequently at odds with the city’s powerful police union; meanwhile, gun violence continues to be a major concern on the South and West sides. Whether Lightfoot runs for a second term in 2023 is a matter of much speculation.
FOODIE’S PARADISE
Visitors expecting deep-dish pizza and Italian beef sandwiches won’t be disappointed, but they will have to elevate their expectations a hundredfold. Chicago is—dare we say it?—one of the most exciting cities in the country for dining right now. It seems like there’s a Food & Wine Best New Chef or Top Chef winner on every block. Sample cutting-edge cuisine from chef Grant Achatz at Next and Alinea and Noah Sandoval at Oriole. Or just spend your entire visit in Logan Square, where such stalwarts as Lula Café and Longman & Eagle are regularly joined by newer go-tos like Giant and Mi Tocaya Antojería. Satisfied yet? We didn’t even mention the hundreds of neighborhood ethnic eateries that let you dine across the globe without ever leaving the city.
BREW CREW
A couple of decades ago, Goose Island was the only craft brewer on the scene. These days, Chicago is a beer lover’s dream: according to the most recent tally by the Brewers Association, Chicago has 167 breweries, more than any other U.S. metro area. That number includes national and regional heavy hitters like Lagunitas, Half Acre, and Revolution, as well as more specialized microbrewers like Metropolitan, Moody Tongue, and Marz. Many operate their own taprooms, where you can sip flagship flavors and limited edition batches. Craft beer megastores like the Beer Temple in Avondale and Bitter Pops in Lakeview have their own tasting rooms so you can sample the goods before taking a six-pack or growler to go.
IMPACT OF COVID-19
Like much of the world, Chicago saw grievous effects from the pandemic—the lives lost, of course (more than 25,000 in Illinois), as well as the horrible stresses on the health-care system and schools and scores of lost jobs. The hospitality industry’s landscape was changed by Covid, as well. One report showed that 19% of the city’s restaurants closed permanently between March 2020 and August 2021, including newer favorites as well as institutions like Spiaggia and Blackbird. Not all the news was bad: lawmakers cleared the way for restaurants and bars to continue selling to-go cocktails, initially an emergency measure, until at least 2024.
ROOMS TO GROW
The travel slowdown didn’t impede the continuing expansion of hotels in the city. New and impending openings in the Loop and River North include the Pendry Chicago, the towering St. Regis (opening in 2022), and the Sable—the first hotel on Navy Pier. They join a growing number of options in neighborhoods away from downtown, like the Robey in Wicker Park. You’ll have your pick of places to lay your head.
SPORTING GOODS (AND BADS)
Chicagoans love their sports teams. Even if most of their pro franchises have struggled since the Cubs finally broke their World Series curse in 2016, you can still find the bars packed on game days, cheering on the Bears, Cubs, White Sox, Blackhawks, and Bulls. There are some changes to the sporting landscape: The Chicago Fire FC hope their move from the suburbs to Soldier Field will win over new soccer fans, even as the Bears are contemplating a move out of Soldier Field to suburban Arlington Heights. And with their first WNBA championship in 2021, the Chicago Sky showed everyone how to make their city proud.
FULL OF PRIDE
Sure, Chicagoans like to complain—about the weather, about the sports teams, and especially about our politicians. But if an out-of-towner dares to diss our beloved city, you can bet there will be fireworks bigger than the ones over Navy Pier in summer. Sandburg was right again about Chicago when he wrote, come and show me another city with lifted head singing / so proud to be alive and coarse and strong and cunning.
What to Eat and Drink in Chicago
MEXICAN FOOD
Chicago may not be your first thought as a haven for Mexican food, but the city has long been a draw for Mexican immigrants. You’ll find many restaurants owned and staffed by first- and second-generation Mexican-Americans, ranging from corner taquerias to high-end sit-down spots.
PIZZA
Chicago deep-dish pizza is unique, and worth seeking out at least once, but the typical pie, known as tavern style,
has a thin-but-sturdy cracker crust. In Chicago, the round pizza is typically cut into squares, leaving you to decide between crispy edge pieces or center slices.
HOT DOGS
Many believe the assembly of a classic Chicago dog is sacrosanct: a charred frank on a poppy seed bun is piled with sliced tomatoes, chopped onions, whole sport peppers, sweet relish and a pickle spear, plus mustard and celery salt—and absolutely no ketchup.
THE STEAK HOUSE
Grass-fed beef is to the Midwest, what fresh-caught seafood is to coastal cities, and Chicago’s reputation as a meat-and-potatoes town has a basis in truth. Old-school steak houses, settings for a dinner of filet mignon or New York strip, still thrive downtown, and on a Monday or Tuesday night, when many restaurants are closed, a steak house can be your best bet.
ITALIAN BEEF
Thin-sliced, seasoned roast beef, topped with sweet peppers (usually roasted green bells) or hot peppers (pickled, oil-packed giardiniera), and piled into an Italian roll is a local delicacy. Order it dipped,
and it’ll be submerged, bread and all, in warm au jus before serving.
MALÖRT
This bitter wormwood liqueur can only be found for sale in the Chicago area. Once confined to working-class Polish and Swedish bars, Malört has become a point of civic pride alongside the craft cocktail surge of recent decades. Many finer bars have incorporated it into cocktail recipes, but shooting it straight—tasting its jolt of grapefruit, heavy on the pith, followed by a lingering deep-bitter finish—has become a rite of Chicago passage.
HAROLD’S CHICKEN SHACK
Black-owned at its founding in 1950, this South Side and West Side chain is so beloved for its fried-to-order chicken and signature mild sauce
(a proprietary blend generally believed to be made from barbecue sauce, ketchup, and hot sauce) that it’s been namechecked in lyrics by musicians including Common, Kanye, and others.
JIBARITO
This creation is a product of the city’s thriving Puerto Rican community, and the jibarito’s genius move is replacing bread with smashed and fried slices of crispy plantain (aka tostones). These are the vessel for seared steak or another protein, and toppings like lettuce, tomato, and cheese. Most agree it first appeared in the mid-1990s.
CRAFT BEER
Local microbreweries have proliferated across the U.S. but Chicago was at the forefront of the trend. Two decades ago, Goose Island was the city’s only local brew but these days, you can barely swing an empty growler without hitting a new taproom or two. Expect to find everything from IPAs to lagers, to sours and stouts.
FLAMING SAGANAKI
The theatrical presentation of a pan of fried cheese, flambéed tableside to cries of Opa! is said to have started at Chicago’s Parthenon restaurant in Greektown in the 1950s. The dish was adopted by Greek restaurants across the U.S. and beyond, and you can still find it at some Chicago spots.
An Architecture Lover’s Guide to Chicago
WILLIS TOWER
Most locals still call it the Sears Tower, and likely will continue to do so. The sleek, black bundle of component towers—an innovation in wind resistance at great heights—was the world’s tallest building for nearly 25 years and it’s still the king of Chicago’s skyline.
BAHÁ’Í HOUSE OF WORSHIP
One of just nine Bahá’í temples in the world, it’s worth the trip to see the intricate tracery in French-Canadian architect Louis Bourgeois’s concrete dome surrounded by nine towers. Crushed quartz mixed into the concrete makes the structure sparkle in the sun.
MARINA CITY
Architect Bertrand Goldberg’s aversion to right angles gets one of its purest expressions in these twin residential towers, which are sometimes compared to corncobs but which Goldberg likened to the shape of sunflowers—each wedge-shape apartment’s curved balcony is a petal.
CHICAGO ARCHITECTURE CENTER
Any architecture buff’s first stop, the CAC features scale models of many of the city’s best-known skyscrapers, including the Chicago City Model Experience, which gives you a bird’s-eye view of more than 4,000 buildings in and around the Loop. This is also the place to buy tickets for the center’s excellent walking tours and river cruises.
CHICAGO CULTURAL CENTER
Originally the city’s first public library, this Beaux Arts beauty is now a hub for art exhibitions, music, and theater performances, and more—all free to attend. The building’s lavish interior, awash in marble and brass, has been lovingly restored; head upstairs to Preston Bradley Hall to ogle the world’s largest Tiffany dome, 38 feet in diameter.
ROBIE HOUSE
Completed in 1909, this Prairie-style layer cake is peak Frank Lloyd Wright, all horizontal lines and cantilevered eaves. The Hyde Park residence, now a National Historic Landmark and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, underwent a $2.9 million restoration in 2019; tours are available Thursday through Monday.
TRIBUNE TOWER
The Chicago Tribune newspaper moved out of its namesake building on Michigan Avenue in 2018 and the neo-Gothic skyscraper has been converted into condominiums, but the tower’s signature flying buttresses and stately crown are still a striking part of the skyline.
THE CHICAGO BUNGALOW
The Chicago bungalow was an evolution of the California cottage, adapted by early-20th-century architects to fit Chicago’s narrow standard lot size. Instantly identifiable by their 1½-story build, with a single dormer window protruding from the center of a low-pitched roof, the bungalow proliferated in the city’s outer neighborhoods from north to south, in what became known as the bungalow belt
; large clusters still survive.
AQUA TOWER
With its undulating concrete balconies suggesting rippling liquid, Aqua’s addition to the skyline in 2009 made Jeanne Gang a household name in architectural circles; the building was not just a critical hit, it was also the world’s tallest building designed by a woman. Aqua recently lost that designation to another Gang design, the nearby St. Regis Chicago, which is also currently the third-tallest building in the city.
THE ROOKERY
This 1888 office building was designed by Chicago master planners Burnham and Root—reason enough to add it to your list—but a 1907 interior redesign was completed by Frank Lloyd Wright, and it’s the only surviving example of Wright’s work you can find downtown.
Chicago’s Best Outdoor Adventures
LAKEFRONT BEACHES
One of the bonuses of summer in Chicago is that there are more than two dozen public beaches along the lakefront. Different beaches have different draws—beach volleyball, Jet Ski rentals, waterfront dining. Beach access is free of charge, so go ahead and dig your toes into the sand.
KAYAK THE CHICAGO RIVER
For a truly unique view of the city, rent a kayak and paddle down Chicago’s main waterway. Start on the North Side and circumnavigate Goose Island, or head all the way downtown and wend your way through the skyscraper canyon of the Main Branch. Rental outfits are located at various spots along the river.
PADDLEBOARD ON LAKE MICHIGAN
Vendors at several beaches and harbors on the lakefront have stand-up paddleboards for rent so you can test your balance on the water. Some, including Chicago SUP at North Avenue Beach, also offer lessons, but check ahead of time.
GRANT PARK SKATE PARK
Near the southern end of Grant Park, at 9th Street and Columbus Drive, this skate park opened in 2014 with three acres of ramps, curbs, rails, and half-pipes for skaters, rollerbladers, and BMX riders looking to master their moves.
BIKE OR RUN THE LAKEFRONT TRAIL
The paved trail running alongside the Lake Michigan shore doesn’t quite span the entire length of the city—but it comes close, stretching 18.5 miles from Edgewater at the north trailhead down to South Shore. Recent upgrades created separate paths for cyclists and runners.
THE 606
A decommissioned elevated rail line running east-west from Bucktown to Humboldt Park was transformed into a 2.7-mile recreational trail, with lush greenery and public art. Named for the first three digits of Chicago’s ZIP Codes, the 606 is so popular there’s talk of extending it.
MAGGIE DALEY PARK
Nestled between Millennium Park to the west and DuSable Lake Shore Drive to the east, this newer park is rife with outdoor activities for families, from rock-climbing walls to miniature golf to the irresistible skating ribbon (ice skates in the winter, roller skates and scooters in warmer months).
312 RIVERRUN
Completed in 2021, this pedestrian and cycling path connects three previously existing parks along the North Branch of the Chicago River via a new bridge that crosses 18 feet above the water while weaving underneath vehicular bridges, allowing nearly 2 miles of continuous, car-free travel.
NATURE WALK IN LABAGH WOODS
LaBagh Woods, on the city’s Far Northwest Side and managed by the Cook County Forest Preserve, offers roughly 5 miles of unpaved trails, in an area that’s great for bird-watching and wildlife spotting; you’ll forget you’re still in the city.
SNOWTREKKING AT NORTHERLY ISLAND
Adjacent to the Museum Campus, much of this man-made peninsula is kept natural,
with a walking path that lets you stroll through prairie grasses and wildflowers but it also has a killer view of the skyline. When winter weather cooperates, you can rent snowshoes or cross-country skis from the park’s fieldhouse.
Under the Radar Chicago
GARDEN OF THE PHOENIX
A serene retreat on an island at the center of Jackson Park’s lagoon, this Japanese ornamental garden (also known as Osaka Garden, for Chicago’s sister city) was originally established as Japan’s pavilion for the World’s Columbian Exhibition of 1893. Visit in the spring to see the cherry blossoms.
MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY PHOTOGRAPHY
The MoCP holds works by more than 1,500 photographers. Special exhibits often highlight rising stars.
RICHARD H. DRIEHAUS MUSEUM
Reflecting the interests of its namesake and founder, a philanthropist, the Driehaus is devoted to art and architecture of the Gilded Age. The building, a lovingly restored 1883 mansion, is part of the collection.
PULLMAN NATIONAL MONUMENT
America’s first planned industrial community (aka a company town) this former home of the workers employed by a railcar manufacturer is notable for its architecture as well as its role in the civil rights and labor movements.
THE LINCOLN LODGE
This comedy showcase started in the back room of a Lincoln Square diner, where young comics like Hannibal Buress, Cameron Esposito, and Kumail Nanjiani honed their stand-up. It now has its own venue in Bucktown, where you can find the next generation of comedians working the room.
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF MEXICAN ART
In Pilsen, the neighborhood that’s long been the hub of Chicago’s Mexican-American community, you can browse a collection of 18,000 works ranging from ancient sculptural figures to contemporary paintings, or catch a theater or dance performance by a local Latinx troupe.
THE LIGHT OF TRUTH
Completed in 2021, this sculpture in Bronzeville is a monument to the Black journalist and activist Ida B. Wells. Designed by sculptor and Chicago native Richard Hunt, it features three bronze pillars supporting a metal swirl that suggests a torch. It’s a new beacon for the historically Black neighborhood.
WABASH ARTS CORRIDOR
Running along both sides of Wabash Avenue from Ida B. Wells Drive south to 16th Street, this mile-long stretch is a curated gallery for muralists and street artists. The district contains nearly 40 permanent installations and an ever-evolving set of temporary exhibitions, and has included work by prominent Chicago illustrators like Shepard Fairey, Hebru Brantley, and Sam Kirk.
MIRÓ’S CHICAGO
It might be overshadowed by the iconic, untitled Picasso across the street in Daley Plaza, but Spanish surrealist Joan Miró’s 39-foot-tall abstract sculpture, which sits next to the Chicago Temple building, deserves just as much attention. With a curvy concrete base inset with ceramics and a bronze upper body, the work suggests a celestial goddess presiding over Loop passersby.
BRIDGEPORT ART CENTER
Originally a Spiegel Catalog warehouse, this massive facility (500,000 square feet across six stories) is home to artists’ studios, galleries, shops, and event spaces. It’s not convenient to public transit, but take a cab on the third Friday of the month for Open Studios night to see resident artists’ work. The small Chicago Maritime Museum on the bottom floor explains the importance of water to the city’s history.
Chicago Then and Now
THE EARLY DAYS
Before Chicago was officially discovered
by the team of Father Jacques Marquette, a French missionary, and Louis Jolliet, a French-Canadian mapmaker and trader, in 1673, the area served as a center of trade and seasonal hunting grounds for several Native American tribes, including the Miami, Illinois, and Potawatomi. Villages kept close trading ties with the French, though scuffles with the Fox tribe kept the French influence at bay until 1779. That year, Black French trader