FB

SEE INSIDE FOR SAMPLE MATERIAL FROM

Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing

9 x 12
240pp
hardcover, spiral binding
978-1-56367-486-0
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CONTENTS
Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Contents
Extended Contents ....................................................ix
Preface............................................................................xi

Chapter 1
Tools and Supplies .........................................1

Chapter 2
Skirts .........................................................................21

Chapter 3
Bodice ......................................................................55

Chapter 4
Bodice Variations..........................................79

Chapter 5
Necklines and Collars ...........................107

Chapter 6
Sleeves ...................................................................133

Chapter 7
Dresses ..................................................................165 |
vii

Chapter 8
Drawing ..............................................................189

Appendix ............................................................221
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EXTENDED CONTENTS
Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Extended Contents
Preface............................................................................xi Chapter 3
Bodice
Chapter 1 Draping the Bodice..............................................56
Tools and Supplies Trueing the Bodice Muslin................................62
Making the Bodice Sloper .................................66
Draping: Muslin......................................................2
Drafting the Bodice from Measurements .....68
Tools and Supplies...........................................2
Drafting the Neckline and Armholes......72
Comparing the Dress Form to
Drafting the Waistline and Shoulders .....73
the Drawn Form............................................4
Completed Bodice Draft .............................74
Drafting: Muslin to Paper Pattern ....................6
Shaping the Bodice .......................................75
Tools and Supplies...........................................6
Drawing Options .................................................76
Drafting: Paper Pattern to Sloper ......................7
Tools and Supplies...........................................7
Terms and Definitions...........................................8 Chapter 4
Draping ...................................................................10 Bodice Variations
Taping the Dress Form ................................14 Bodice Variations .................................................80
Pattern Symbol Legend ......................................16 Shoulder and Waist Dart Combination ...80
Drawing ..................................................................17 Princess Seam.....................................................82
Tools and Supplies ........................................17 Armhole Princess Seam ..................................86
Drawing the Flat Figure.....................................18 Front Waist Dart and Back Neck Dart ....90
Fashion Figure versus Flat Figure ...................19 Drawing Bodice Variations ...........................93
Side and Waist Darts.......................................94
Chapter 2
Skirts
Shoulder Yoke with Tucks
and Gathered Waist ......................................96
Gathered Neck with Yoke..........................100
|ix

Draping the Skirt .................................................22

Trueing the Skirt Muslin: Waistline ...............28 Dartless Back Shoulder................................103
Making the Skirt Sloper.....................................32 Drawing Bodice Details .............................104
Drafting the Skirt from Measurements.........34
Drawing Skirt Flats .............................................38 Chapter 5
Skirt Variations .....................................................39 Necklines and Collars
Straight Skirt ...................................................39 Necklines ..................................................108
Flare Skirt ........................................................42 Jewel Neck ..........................................108
Six-Gore Skirt .................................................45 V-Neck ................................................110
Pleated Skirt ....................................................48 Scoop Neck .........................................112
Dirndl Skirt .....................................................50 Square Neck ........................................114
Drawing Structured Drape ...............................52 Bateau Neck ........................................116
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Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Collars.......................................................118 Chapter 8
Peter Pan Collar ..................................118 Drawing
Pilgrim Collar ......................................120 Donald Brooks: Costume
Mock Shawl ........................................122 and Fashion Designer .............................190
Convertible Collar...............................124 Collars and Cuffs......................................192
Two-Piece Shirt Collar.........................126 Five Stages for a Garment: Collar.............194
Band Collar .........................................128 Sleeves .......................................................196
Drawing Necklines and Collars ................130 Five Stages for a Garment: Sleeve .............198
Pleating .....................................................200
Chapter 6 Five Stages for a Garment: Bodice ............202
Sleeves Five Stages for a Garment: Skirt ..............204
Draping the Sleeve ....................................134 Five Stages for a Garment:
Stuffed Arm .........................................134 Bodice Variations ...................................206
Marking the Muslin ...........................140 Five Stages for a Garment: Dress .............208
Drafting the Straight Sleeve ......................144 Back Drape ..............................................210
Draft from Measurements ..................145 Dresses ......................................................212
Draft the Cap ......................................146 Sketching Options.....................................214
Drafting the Fitted Sleeve .........................148 Flat Figure and Fashion Figure .................216
Draft....................................................148 Drawing Soft Drape..................................218
Sleeves ......................................................150
Leg-o-Mutton ......................................150 Appendix
Slim-Fitted Bell ....................................152 Dress Form Measurement Chart ..............222
Blouse ..................................................154 Standard Sportswear and
Full Bell ...............................................156 Streetwear Dress Form ...........................223
Puff .....................................................158 Croquis Templates ....................................224
Turn-Up Cuff .....................................160
Drawing Sleeves .......................................162

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Chapter 7
Dresses
Dress Foundation Sloper...........................166
Draping the Dress Foundation Sloper.......168
Dresses ......................................................170
Shift Dress ...........................................170
Princess Dress ......................................174
Sheath Dress ........................................178
Tent Dress............................................180
Drawing Dresses .......................................184
Design Variety...........................................186
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Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

PREFACE
Preface

T his book is about a dialog between an artist

and a technician. It illustrates the design process,
dress as the model used throughout the text to
demonstrate how draping, drafting, and drawing
encompassing sketch and garment pattern devel- are integrated in design development. The com-
opment. It depicts the relationship among three ponents are the skirt, bodice, neckline, collar,
disciplines of fashion design: draping, drafting, sleeve, and dress foundation. These disciplines
and drawing. The integration is presented in a are similarly integrated in the design of men’s and
highly visual format. children’s wear.
These disciplines, particularly draping and Each chapter builds on the last. After an
drafting, are often taught in separate classes. introduction to tools and preparation techniques
Their relationship is integral to efficient and time- in Chapter 1, Chapters 2, 3, and 6 begin with
saving methods of developing a design and its draping as the first step in producing a sloper.
pattern. Our aim is to create bridges between Drafting the sloper is then offered as an alterna-
studio methods and design illustration. Each tive method. Chapters 4, 5, and 7, focusing
chapter renders a combination of skills and the respectively on bodice variations, necklines and
natural flow among them. Two-dimensional collars, and dresses, begin with drafting because,
design informs the three-dimensional and vice for many of the design variations, these chapters
versa. utilize slopers developed in the previous chapters.
Chapters are presented as hands-on learning In the case of a design variation such as the leg-o-
experiences with lessons that mimic classroom mutton sleeve, for example, drafting the pattern
demonstrations. Step-by-step photography por-
trays the draping process in a sculptural way
rather than using illustrations, which cannot truly
is more efficient than draping it.
All design starts with an idea, which needs to
be translated into a sketch. Drawing basics are
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xi

depict the response of fabric draped on a dress interwoven throughout the book, with an empha-
form. The images of muslin “sculpture” com- sis on understanding body lines in relation to the
bined with digital drafts offer interchangeable dress form and proportion. It is directed toward
solutions for pattern development. communicating specific garment detail in the con-
Throughout the book, there are alternative text of related projects. Lessons ground the cre-
methods used by practicing designers for devel- ative process and strike a balance between the
oping slopers. These are master patterns, created technical and visual elements. Drawing informs
by draping or drafting and used to generate style draping and drafting, just as these disciplines
variations. We chose the basic components of the inform drawing. Step-by-step instructions on
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Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

drawing the fashion figure as well as flats are Acknowledgments

included in each chapter. Drawings correspond to We would like to thank Tim Maggio for his pho-
patterns and convey countless ideas for design tography, technical drawings, and graphics. Thank
diversification and inspiration. you to Fred Gross for his word crafting
In 2003, Kathleen Maggio curated the exhibit of drawing text and support. To Wolf Form
Donald Brooks: Designer for all Seasons. She Company, thanks for their assistance. We are
became acquainted with Mr. Brooks and his grateful to Bill Rancitelli for his drawings, as well
work while he served as a visiting designer critic as to Jerry Blum and Kay Blick for a glimpse
to the fashion design department of Parsons into Donald Brooks’ portfolio. Many thanks to
School of Design. This twentieth century design- Fairchild Books editors Olga Kontzias, Sylvia
er is renowned for his accomplishments in cos- Weber, Jessica Rozler, and Beth Cohen and the
tume design as well as on Seventh Avenue. The multi-talented Fairchild team for helping us to
authors found that dresses from the exhibition bring this project together. To the reviewers select-
collection served as the ideal inspiration for this ed by the publisher, we express our appreciation of
book. Even using the basic garment components their recommendations. They are Melanie Carrico,
taught in this book, Mr. Brooks’ designs exude Kent State University; Andy Chan, Massachusetts
timelessness in their execution and fabrication. College of Art; Kathy Mullet, Oregon State
Chapter 8 is devoted to drawing exercises University; Artis Rewerts, University of Texas—
focused on rendering his designs and their fine Austin; Susan L. Stark, San Francisco State
design details. It also depicts the relationship that University; and Sandra Tonz, Mt. Mary College.
exists among draping, drafting, and drawing We’d also like to thank our students, whose
exemplified in the images of garments from enthusiasm and creativity continue to kindle our
Chapters 2 through 7. passion for fashion.

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xii
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B OD I CE
With experience gained from producing the
skirt sloper, you can now develop the bodice
pattern. Draping the bodice involves balanc-
ing the front and back muslin, distributing
and controlling fullness by forming darts,
and fitting the neckline and armhole. The
muslin drape is trued and transferred to
paper, and a sloper is created. Detailed
instructions depict taking measurements
and drafting a flat pattern for the bodice
as another option. Drawing the body
contours is a critical factor in visually
communicating the fit and form of
the bodice. Studies of body lines,
proportion, pose, flats, and specs
are included in this chapter.
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Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Draping the Bodice

Tape the Dress Form
• Bust
• Center front and center back
• Princess lines
• Side seam
• Base of the neckline
• Shoulder seam
• Shoulder blade level
(4 down from neckline at CB)
• Armhole ridge
Note: Do not cover seam lines
with tape. Pin along side them.

Prepare the Muslin Mark the Muslin

1 Front length: Measure from the Bust 1 Measure 1 in from the length-
dress form neckband to the Level wise torn edge. Draw in CF
waist at CF plus 2 Width
line
2 Front width: Measure from the 2 Measure from the neckband to
CF at bust level to the side Center the bust level. Square a line
seam plus 2 1⁄2  Front
across the muslin.
3 Measure from the CF to the
Length
side seam across bust level.
Side
Seam
Add 1⁄2  for ease. Cross mark
for the side seam on the bust
line.
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56
1 Drape
1 Align the muslin length
2

and cross grain line

with the tape on the
dress form. Pin the
muslin at the CF neck-
line, 3  above and
below the bust tape and
waist. Pin the cross
grain line at the bust
point at princess line.
2 Distribute 1⁄2  ease
across the bust line and
pin cross mark at the
side seam.
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BODICE
1 2 Shoulder
Dart Neckline

Center
Front
Bust
Level

Waistline
Side
Seam

Form the Shoulder Dart

5 Smooth the muslin from the
Drape the Neckline shoulder neck point to the
4
1 Pin at the intersection of the princess line or midpoint on the
center front seam and neckline shoulder and pin.
of the dress form. 6 Smooth the excess muslin from
2 To release the muslin for fitting, the bust line pinned at the side
cut a 2  2 square off the corner. seam up over the shoulder
3 Pin and slash down the seam towards the princess line and
allowance (perpendicular to the pin.
neckline) toward pin. 7 Fold the excess muslin to form
4 Continue pinning and slashing a dart. Pin the fullness at the
along neckline to the shoulder shoulder.
seam. The muslin should lie 8 Pin the side seam starting at the
smoothly across the chest and arm plate down to the waist.
shoulder, with no stretching or 9 Pin out the fullness from the
pulling at neckline. 1⁄8  ease shoulder down towards the bust
should be included.

7 8 9
point.
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Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Draping the Bodice

1 3

Bust Point
Center
Front

Waistline

Armhole

Side
Seam

Waist Dart

5 6 7

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58

Form the Waist Dart Mark the Draped Muslin

1 From the side seam at waist, 4 With a pencil, dot along the bottom of the twill
pin along the waist toward the tape along the waist and side seam.
princess line. Slash the muslin 5 Cross mark on either side of the dart at the waist
towards the pins. Allow for and the intersection of the side seam at the waist
1
⁄4  ease along waist. and arm plate. Cross mark at the end of the
2 Smooth and pin from the center shoulder, on each side of the shoulder dart and at
front waist towards the princess the shoulder neck point.
line. 6 Dot along the shoulder and neckline.
3 Fold the excess muslin to form a 7 Fold the excess muslin to the front, clearing the
dart. Pin the fullness at the waist shoulder and side seam for the back drape.
and pin the dart towards the
bust point.
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:10 PM Page 59

BODICE
Prepare the Back Muslin
Torn Edge • Back length: Measure from the dress form neckband to the
Shoulder waist at Center Back plus 2.
Blade
Level
• Back width: Measure from the CB at bust level to the side seam
plus 3.
Bust Line
Level Mark the Muslin
Center
Back Line
1 Measure 1 in from the lengthwise torn edge. Draw in the
Center Back line.
2 Measure from the neckband to the bust level tape. Square a
line across the muslin.
3 Measure from the CB to the side seam across the tape. Add
1 for ease. Cross mark for the side seam on the bust line.

Shoulder 4 Align the length and cross grain lines with the bust line tape.
Blade Mark and square a line for the shoulder blade level.
Cross
Mark 5 Measure across the shoulder blade level to the arm plate and
cross mark.
Cross Drape the Back
Mark
for Side 1 Align the length and cross grain lines with the bust line tape.
Seam at
Pin the muslin at the CB neck, shoulder blade, bust line, and
Bust Line
Tape waist. Pin the cross grain line, distributing the ease along the
tape. Pin across the shoulder blade level, distributing 1⁄4  ease
to the cross mark at the armhole ridge.
Back Muslin 2 Pin along the back neckline of the dress form, slashing down
the seam allowance toward the pins. Secure at the shoulder
seam.

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59
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Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Draping the Bodice

1 2 Form the Shoulder Dart
1 Smooth the muslin from the shoulder
neck point to the princess line on the
shoulder and pin. Muslin should lay
flat across the chest and shoulder
with no stretching or pulling at the
neckline.
2 Smooth the excess muslin from the
shoulder blade line at armhole up
over the shoulder towards the
3 4 princess line and pin.
3 Pinch up the excess muslin to form a
small dart along the princess line.
4 Measure 3 down from the shoulder
and mark the vanishing point of the
dart with a pin.

Mark the Draped Muslin

8 Dot along the bottom of the twill
Form the Waist Dart
tape along the waist and side seam.
5 From the side seam at the waist, pin
9 Cross mark on either side of the
along the waist toward the princess
dart at the waist and the intersec-
line. Slash the muslin towards the pins.
tion of the side seam at the waist
Allow for 1⁄4  ease along the waist.
and arm plate. Cross mark at the
6 Smooth and pin from the center back
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60
waist toward the princess line.
7 Pinch up the excess muslin to form
end of the shoulder, on each side
of the shoulder dart and at the
shoulder neck point.
a dart. Pin the fullness at the waist
10 Dot along the shoulder and neck-
and pin the dart along the princess
line.
line to 1 above the bust level line.

8 9 10
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BODICE
Join the Front and Back Bodice 1 2
1 Fold the leg of the dart closest to the centers
toward the sides and pin them closed. Pin the
front over the back at the side seam matching
the grain line and cross marks. Pin twill tape
around the bodice waistline.
2 Join and pin the front and back shoulders
together with the excess muslin turned out.
Trim, leaving 1 seam allowance.

3a 3b

4 5

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61

3 Fold the front shoulder and pin over the back, 6 7

matching the shoulder darts.
4 The shoulder length for a size 8 should be 5.
The darts should be centered on the shoulder
seam.
5 Match the shoulder cross marks and dot around
the armhole ridge.
6 Dot along the lower half of the arm plate.
7 Blend the front and back waistline by marking
along tape.
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Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Trueing the Bodice Muslin

1 1 Remove the muslin from the dress form, keeping
the side seams pinned together. Unpin the shoul-
der seam.
2 With the darts still pinned closed, measure the
front and back waists. They should each include
1
⁄4  ease. Adjust if necessary.

3 Square a line from the center line 1 to begin

trueing the waistline.

4 Use a hip curve ruler to continue drawing the

waistline along the dots.

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62
5 Unpin and open the dart. Draw in the dart legs
with a straight ruler. For a sloper, the front dart
points may end at the bust level line. Measure
across the bust line. The front and back should
each include at least 1⁄2  ease.

5
Sketching the Upper Torso

Bust Line
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:11 PM Page 63

BODICE
6

6 Lower the armhole at side seam 1.

7 Use a curve ruler to draw in the armhole.

It should reflect the curve of the arm plate.

8 The back armhole will need to be drawn with

the curve in two parts since it’s 1 longer than
the front.
9 Draw the side seams.

10 Pin the shoulder darts closed and draw the

shoulder seam. The back shoulder seams may be
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63

slightly curved from the princess line to the neck.

Use the curve to draw that in.

10
Center
Mapping Out
Front
Darts on
the Torso

Princess Seams
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Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Trueing the Bodice Muslin

11

12

11 Remove the pins at the mouth of the darts. Slip folded carbon
paper inside the dart and run a tracing wheel across the seam
13a to obtain the jog of the dart.
12 Neckline Pin the shoulders together. Lower the neckline 1⁄4  at
the center front and widen the neck 1⁄8  at the shoulder seam.
Use an L-square for the first 1⁄4  of the neckline in the front and
1
⁄2  in the back.
13 Draw the new neckline with a curve that reflects the curve of
the originally marked neck.
14 Complete the drape by trimming the seam allowance to 1⁄2  at
the armhole and neckline. A 1 seam should be allowed for the
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64 13b
side seam, shoulder, waist, and centers.

14
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:12 PM Page 65

BODICE
15 Pin the trued and trimmed muslin back together to check the fit on the form. Mark a notch at the
screw level on the armholes and a second notch 1⁄4  below the notch for the back.

Drawing Flats
Steps for drawing a flat free-hand Drawing a flat figure as a guide or reference to establish the correct
without a flat figure reference. proportion and fit of a garment.
Tracing Paper or Semi-
1 Neckline Translucent Marker Paper

2 Shoulder and
then Armhole

3 Creating
Matching
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65

Side Seams
Flat of Your
Garment
Sketching Only without the
Flat Figure Sketch on the Garment as it Figure
4 Planning Another Page Would Fit
Hemline Width

5 Starting
Shoulder Darts D

A Proportions
B Sewing Lines
6 Finishing
C Fit
Waistline Darts D FInished Flat
A B C
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Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Making the Bodice Sloper

Muslin to Paper Pattern
1 Mark any additional corrections on the muslin pattern, remove
the pins and press flat.
2 Draw length and cross grain lines on the pattern paper. Place the
muslin on the paper, matching grain lines. Use pattern weights
or push pins to hold the muslin in place.
3 Transfer pattern lines onto the paper using a tracing wheel with
a serrated edge. Working on a soft surface such as cork is ideal.
Guide the wheel with a ruler for smooth transfer of lines.
4 Allow 1 for the side seam, shoulder, and center seam
allowances. The neckline, armhole, and waist have 1⁄2 
allowance. Extend all seam lines into the seam allowances.

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66

Paper Pattern to Sloper

1 Cut oaktag twice the size of the
pattern. Fold it in half and press
a sharp, flat folded edge. Draw
a cross grain line using an L-
square. Fold the center seam
allowance of the paper pattern
under and align with the fold
and the cross grain.
2 Transfer all pattern lines to the
oaktag using a needle point
tracing wheel.
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:12 PM Page 67

BODICE
Drawing Darts for
This Bodice

3 Draw seam and dart lines with a pencil, using

straight and curve rulers. Mark length grain
lines parallel to the center lines.
4 Cut straight lines with a blade. Use scissors or
pattern shears to cut curved lines. Seam
allowances are not necessary on slopers.
5 Notch the dart legs, armholes and cross grain
line at side seam.
6 Punch a hole at the apex of the darts.
7 Complete the sloper by punching a large hole
and hanging it on a pattern hook.

Fit Construction Detail

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67

Flat of
This Bodice
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Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Drafting the Bodice from Measurements

N L N L
K+ + + K+ + +
5/8”
Q W Q
I+ + +O I+ + W1 + +O
3/8”
+M +S
+M 1”
1”
S1
+P +A +P +A
X+

3/4”
G V G
H H +
L1 E L1
D C D E R
+ C

1” 1” 1” 1” 1”
J+ + + +B J+ + + +B
J1 J1 Y T
F U F

Back Front Back Front

N Z3 L N Z3 L
K+ + + K+ + +
W Z1 Q W Z1 Q
I+ + + W1 + +O I+ + + W1 + +O
1/2” 7/8”
+S +S
+M +M
11/4”
S1 S1
++ A ++ A
+P +P
X+ 1/4” X+
+ Z4 + Z4

_
_ _ _
_ _
+ armplate
screw
+

Z2 + Z2 +

approx. 1”

V G approx. 1” V G
H + H +
L1 L1 E R
D E R D + C
+ C

J+ J+ + 1”
+ + +B + + +B
J1 Y T J1 U Y T
U F F

Back Front Back Front

Accurate measurements are required to draft a bodice sloper. Carefully measure the dress form or human fig-
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68
ure and record these illustrated measurements. The following pages provide step-by-step drafting instructions.

Measuring the Dress Form

1 Center front 2 Bust circumference (fullest 3 Front neck to 4 1⁄2 bust

length (base of part at bust level). Pin tape bust level circumference
neck to waist) parallel to the floor CF to CB
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:13 PM Page 69

BODICE
5 Side seam 6 Back neck 7 Center back 8 Back 9 Across back
(waist to 1 to bust level length (base of shoulder, neck shoulder
below arm neck to waist) to waist (armhole to
plate) armhole)

10 Back waist 11 Back 12 Front 13 Across 14 Front

to shoulder shoulder (base shoulder neck front chest waist to
(1 from CB of neck to end to waist shoulder
waist to end of
shoulder)
of shoulder)
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69

15 Front 16 Bust point to bust point 17 Waist 18 Across back

shoulder length circumference
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Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Drafting the Bodice from Measurements

1 A to B = Center Front Length - Extend a straight Mark L1 where they intersect
line 2 in from the right side of a 24  24 sheet 13 Square a guideline from J toward F for the back
of pattern paper waist
2 A to C = the distance from the base of the Neck 14 Square a guideline from B to F for the front waist
to the Bust level 15 J to J1 = 1
1
3 C to D = ⁄2 the Bust Circumference plus 1 ⁄4 
1
16 J1 to M = Set the ruler at J1 - measure the
ease Back Waist to Shoulder length to the point
4 D to E = ⁄2 CD minus ⁄4 
1 1
where it intersects with line L-L1
5 E to F = Side Seam guideline (bust level to waist) 17 M to N = Set the ruler at M - measure the
6 F to G = Side Seam (waist to 1 below arm- Shoulder length plus 1 for dart/ease to the
plate). Extend the guideline to the top of the point where it intersects with line K-L
paper 18 B to O = the Center Front Waist to Shoulder
7 G to H = Square a line to the Center Back Neck point. Square a guideline across to the
from G. Extend the line 2 1⁄4  toward the front side seam guideline
8 D to I = Bust level to the Back Neck 19 Draw a parallel guideline 5⁄8  to the right of the
9 I to J = Center Back Length side seam line from the top towards line G-H
10 J to K = Waist to the Shoulder Neck Point - 20 B to P = Center Front Waist to Shoulder
Square a line across to the side seam guideline at armhole. Place the ruler at B, mark where
1
11 K to L = ⁄2 of Across Shoulder measurement it intersects the 5⁄8  guideline
plus 1 for dart & ease 21 P to Q = Front Shoulder length plus 2 for the
12 Square a guideline from L down to H-G. dart

Drafting
N L
Diagram K+ + +
5/8”
Steps 1 – 21 Q
I+ + +O

+M

+P +A

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70

G
H
L1 E
D C

1”
J+ + + +B
J1
F

Back Front
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:13 PM Page 71

BODICE
30 Mark 1 on each side of line and connect the
1
22 C to R = ⁄2 the Bust Point to Bust Point
23 Square a line from R to the waist guideline. dart legs to V - Extend the dart legs 1⁄2 past the
Measure 1 on either side of the line and draw waist guideline
dart legs. Extend all dart lines 1⁄2 past the waist 31 J to Y = ⁄4 of the Waist minus ⁄2, plus 2 ⁄4
1 1 1

guideline for dart and ease

1
24 B to T = ⁄4 of the Waist circumference plus 32 Y to G = Back Side Seam
2 3⁄4  (the front is 1⁄2 wider than the back, plus 33 N to W = ⁄2 the Shoulder plus ⁄8 ease
1 1

1
⁄4  ease, plus 2 for the dart) 34 W – W1 = ⁄4 (Dart)
3

25 T to G = Front Side Seam 35 From the dart midpoint draw a guideline 3 1⁄2
1
26 Q to S = ⁄2 the Front Shoulder to X
27 S to S1 = 2 for the Dart. At the center of the 36 Connect the dart legs to X. Extend dart lines 1⁄2
dart extend a guideline down to R. Connect beyond the shoulder line
dart legs to R and extend all lines 1⁄2 past the
shoulder guideline
28 V = Intersection of J1 – M with line G-H. Shift
3
⁄4  towards the Center Back and mark V
U = Square a line down from V, extending ⁄2
1
29
past the waist guideline

Drafting
N L
Diagram K+ + +
Steps 22 – 36 W
+ W1
Q
I+ + +O
3/8”
+S
+M 1”
1”
S1
+P +A
X+

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71

3/4”
V G
H +
L1 E R
D + C

1” 1” 1” 1”
J+ + + +B
J1 U Y T
F

Back Front
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:13 PM Page 72

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Drafting the Bodice from Measurements

Drafting the Neckline and Armholes
2
37 Square a horizontal guideline from the Center 41 Z2 = ⁄3 of Z1 - H-G
Front and Back Neck. Square a vertical line up 42 Square a line from H-G to Z2
to the Shoulder Neck Point 43 Draw a 1 guideline at a 45-degree angle to the
38 Front Neck: Draw a 1 ⁄4 guideline at a 45-
1
guideline square. Draw P-Z2-G using a French
degree angle to the guideline square. Use a curve.
1
French curve to draw in the neckline A-Q. Keep 44 Back Armhole: K – Z3 = ⁄2 the Across Back
the Center Front neckline level for 1⁄4 before measurement. Square a guideline down to H-G
1
curving 45 Z4 = ⁄2 Z3 - H-G
39 Back Neck: Draw a ⁄8 guideline at a 45-degree
7
46 Square a line from H-G to Z4
angle to the guideline square. Use a French 47 Draw a 1 guideline at a 45-degree angle to the
curve to draw in the neckline I-N. Keep the guideline square. Draw the lower armhole Z4-G
Center Back neckline level for ⁄2 before
1
and the upper armhole Z4-M using a French
curving curve
1
40 Front Armhole: O to Z1 = ⁄2 the Across Chest
measurement. Square a guideline down to H-G

Drafting Diagram
Steps 37 – 47
N Z3 L
K+ + +
W Z1 Q
I+ + + W1 + +O
1/2” 7/8”
+S
+M
11/4”

|
72
X+
+ Z4
+P
S1

1/4”
++ A

_
_ _
+ armplate
screw

Z2 +

approx. 1”

V G approx. 1”
H +
L1 E R
D + C

J+ + + +B
J1 U Y T
F

Back Front
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:13 PM Page 73

BODICE
Drafting the Waistline and Shoulders
48 Separate the front and back bodice. Fold the 52 Match and pin the bodice shoulders together.
waist dart legs closest to the centers towards The back is slightly longer for ease. Blend the
the sides. Pin the darts closed. Match and pin front and back neckline and armhole at the
the side seam together shoulder
49 Square a line 1 from the Center Front and 53 Measure and prepare two pieces of muslin.
back waist towards the side seam. Use a curve Transfer the draft to muslin using a tracing
ruler to blend the front and back waists wheel and carbon paper. Add seam allowance
50 Run a tracing wheel across the waist and draw and cut out. Pin fit and adjust
in the jog of the darts
51 Fold the shoulder darts dart legs closest to the
centers towards the sides. Pin the darts closed.
Draw a straight line from Q to P for the front
and from N to M for the back. Run a tracing
wheel across the shoulder and draw in the jog
of the darts. Note: The back shoulder can be
slightly curved when adjusted on the figure

Drafting Diagram
Steps 48 – 53
N Z3 L
K+ + +
W Z1 Q
I+ + + W1 + +O

+S
+M

X+
+ Z4
+P
S1
++ A

|
73

_
_ _
+

Z2 +

V G
H +
L1 E R
D + C

J+ + 1”
+ + +B
J1 U Y T
F

Back Front
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:13 PM Page 74

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Drafting the Bodice from Measurements

Completed Bodice Draft

Shoulder Blade Level

Center Front Bodice

Center Back Bodice

Bust Level

This sloper is used for drafting styles that include set-in sleeves.

|
74
Center Front Bodice
Center Back Bodice

1/2”

Adjusted sloper for use in sleeveless styles.

AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:13 PM Page 75

BODICE
Shaping the Bodice
Bust Line Bodice Bodice Dart Bodice Fit
Contour Length Position

Bust
Level

The fit on the front of the bodice is designed to contour over

the bust apex. The bust apex is the fullest point across the chest.
The bust level runs between the front darts.

Full Full
Front Back

The fit on the back of the bodice is constructed to accommodate

the subtle contours of the scapula or shoulder blades. The shoul-
der blade level runs above and parallel to the bust level across
|
75

the back of the bodice.

Scapula or Shoulder Back

Shoulder Blade Dart
Blades Level Position
Shoulder
Blade
Level

Bust
Level
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:13 PM Page 76

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Drawing Options
Figure
Angles Pose

Posing a flat has the

Notice how the direction of the torso, advantage of
in any pose, affects the contours or emphasizing fit:
curves in the sewing lines, as they turn in this example,
with the figure. the look or fit of
the bodice as it
Form and hugs the chest.
Function Flat

Flats give you all of

The function of the darts is to make a the construction and
garment fit or follow the form, in this shape detail without

|
76 case, the form of the bust line curve.

Body
the possible distortion
of a posed flat.

Planes Spec

Elongated
Fashion
Figure

Specs provide the most

The torso can be divided into four sides. comprehensive detail-
This pose shows off two sides and the ing for every aspect in
front of this square. The turn direction, creating a garment, to
for this pose, is evident in the sides and produce it en masse.
affects where you draw the dart lines.
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:14 PM Page 77

BODICE
Posed
Shape Darts Flat Finish

Posed The posed flat is usually drawn to emphasize

fit, to highlight form or function. This pose shows
off the bustline contouring.

Finish

Note:
Shading
Softens
Look of
Fabric
and Also
Accents the
Fit or Form

Shape Darts Non-Posed Portfolio

or Studio Flat

Flat The flat, not posed, focuses on pure shape, con-

struction, and proportion. In this case, the bustline
contouring is not emphasized. |
77

Big Overall Small Interior Adding Exterior

Shape Measurements Measurements Measurements

Flat Turned
into a Spec

Technical Flat Sketch for Production

Spec The spec has to be drawn as a precise, plain
flat to reflect the “specifics” of its fit to document its
measurements for production.
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:14 PM Page 78