Masala Dosa To Die For - NYTimes

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The article discusses the rise of P. Rajagopal and the Saravana Bhavan restaurant chain in India and some of the controversies surrounding its founder.

The holy trinity of south Indian snacks known as tiffin are dosa, idli and vada - all made from ground rice and lentils with different results like crispy dosas, deep fried vadas and steamed idlis.

Saravana Bhavan relies heavily on manual labor in their kitchens but finding workers interested in this type of work is becoming more difficult as education reaches more Indians. Maintaining quality across many locations is also a challenge.

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MAGAZINE | NYT NOW
Masala Dosa to Die For
By ROLLO ROMIG MAY 7, 2014
SaravanaBhavandoesntlooklikeahouseofsecrets.Itsdiningroomat
thecornerofLexingtonAvenueand26thStreetiscleanandbrightand
oftenattractsalineoutfront.Itdoesntadvertisebecauseitdoesnt
needtothefactthatitsoneoftheworldslargestchainsofvegetarian
restaurants33inIndia,another47inadozenothercountriesis
consideredtooobvioustoitscoreclienteleofIndianexpatriatesand
touriststobeworthtrumpeting.Inacityoverwhelmedwith
underwhelmingnorthIndianfood,SaravanaBhavanisthestandard
bearerofthedelicaciesofthesouth,butitmakesnoefforttoeducate
theuninitiated.Ifyoudontknowwhatadosaisorhowtoeatit,youre
onyourown.
Themanbehindthechainisanelusive66yearoldnamedP.
Rajagopal.AmonghispeersintherestaurantbusinessinChennai,the
southIndiancitywhereSaravanaBhavanisheadquartered,Rajagopal
isalegend.Hebroughtprestigetothevegetarianbusiness,saida
restaurateurnamedManoharan,whorunsacompetingchaincalled
MuruganIdli.Hemadearevolution.
Bornintoalowcasteinaremoteprovince,hecametoruleafield
thatwasoncethesoledomainofBrahmins,cleverlyupdatingtheir
traditionalfareinasettingthatwasbothrespectableand
unpretentious,therebycateringtoIndiasmiddleclassatjustthe
momentitemerged.Todayheemploysmorethan8,000peoplein
Chennaialone.HisworkersenjoybenefitsfantasticenoughforSilicon
Valley(pensions,TVs,education),inspiringamongthemfierceloyalty
toRajagopal.Everydaythousandsofpilgrimscometoprayatthe
templeshebuiltinthevillageofhisbirth,andahundredthousand
cometoeatinhisrestaurants.
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Hisbusinessmodelissoseeminglyfoolproofthatthecompanyhas
acquiredanairofinvincibility,evenasitsfounderbecamesulliedwith
scandal.AsSaravanaBhavanwentglobal,Rajagopalwaschargedwith
murder,foundguiltyandsentencedtolifeinprison.Yetheserveda
totalofonly11months,andtodayhesfreetocontinuehisexpansion
nextstopHongKong,followedbySydney,Australia.Andthen,ifhis
healthholdsout,buildinghisfirstluxuryhotel.
SaravanaBhavanspecializesintheholytrinityofsouthIndian
snacksknownastiffin:dosa,idliandvada.Allaremadefromground
riceandlentils,withremarkablydifferentresults.Dosasarecrispy
goldencrepesthataremostdeliciouslyservedwithamasalaofpotato
andonionvadasaredeepfriedsavorydoughnutsandidlis,thesouths
staplefood,arepurewhitesaucershapedsteamedcakes.Atmost
branchesofSaravanaBhavaninChennai,youcanalsofindforsalea
littlebooktitled,ISetMyHeartonVictory.Firstpublishedin1997,
thebookisRajagopalsmemoirandmanifesto,acuriousblendof
mythmakingandselfeffacement.
Hisstorybeginsin1947,10daysbeforeIndiasindependencefrom
theBritish,whenhewasborninthevastbrushlandinthesouthern
stateTamilNadu.Hisvillage,Punnaiadi,wassoinconsequentialthatit
didntmeritabusstophishomewasashackwithmudandcowdung
floors.Rajagopalwritesthathequitschoolafterseventhgrade,left
homealoneandtookajobwipingtablesatacheaprestaurantina
distantresorttown,whereheshoweredinawaterfallandsleptonthe
kitchenfloor.Buthewasproudofhiswork,especiallyafterthe
restaurantsteamasterinductedhimintothemysteriesofmakinga
perfectchai.
Whenhewasateenager,hemovedtoChennai,thenknownas
Madras,andin1968openedthefirstinaseriesoftinygroceriesonthe
outskirtsofthecity.Onedayin1979,athisgroceryinaneighborhood
calledKKNagar,asalesmanmadeacasualremark:Hedhavetogoall
thewaytoTNagarforlunchbecauseKKNagardidnthaveany
restaurants.
Acenturyago,therewerevirtuallynorestaurantsinallofChennai.
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Itsacountrythatwasveryconservativeabouteatingout,said
KrishnenduRay,afoodstudiesprofessoratN.Y.U.WhenRajagopal
wasborn,therestaurantsceneconsistedoflittlemorethanBrahmin
hotels:modestaffairscateringtothetravelinguppercaste,whose
dietaryrulesdictatedthattheycouldnteatfoodcookedbyanycaste
buttheirown.AsamemberoftheNadarcaste,Rajagopalwouldnt
havebeenallowedtoeatinmostBrahminhotels,letalonerunone.But
bythetimehecameofage,entrepreneursfromothercasteshadbegun
tomeetChennaisincreasingappetitefordiningout.
TherewaslittletosuggestthatRajagopalwasreadytojointhem.
WhenheopenedhisdebutrestaurantinKKNagarin1981,his
strugglingshopshadlefthimdeepindebt,andheknewlittleabout
foodservicebeyondsellinggroceries.Hemadetheleap,hetoldme,
onlyafteranastrologerrecommendedthathetryalineofworkthat
involvedfire.Abusinessadviserinsistedthatheshouldusecheap
ingredientsandpayhisstaffaslittleaspossiblefoodworkersare
vagabonds,hesaid,andtheylltakewhattheycanget.Ididnotlikehis
argumentatall,Rajagopalwritesinhismemoir.Hefiredtheadviser,
startedusingcoconutoilandtopqualityvegetablesandgavehis
workerssurprisinglyhighwages.Thebusinesslost10,000rupeesa
monthabigdeficitforarestaurantwheremostitemsonthemenu
soldforarupeeapiece.
Butwordspreadthathisfoodwastastyandcheap,andsoon
Rajagopalwasturningaprofitandopeningnewbranches.He
expandedhisworkersbenefits,allofthemunprecedentedinIndian
restaurants:freehealthcare,housingstipends,amarriagefundfor
theirdaughters.SaravanaBhavanworkersstartedcallinghimAnnachi,
aTamiltermofrespectthatmeanselderbrother.
Bythe90s,aSaravanaBhavancouldbefoundinneighborhoods
throughoutChennai.Localssometimesrefertothebrandastheir
versionofMcDonalds:welllit,ubiquitousanduncannilyconsistent.
UnlikeMcDonalds,therestaurantsmakeeverythingfromscratch.One
afternoon,atrioofbrighteyedassistantsfromthecompanysR&D
departmentgavemeatourofthebranchinMylapore,aChennai
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neighborhood.Iwassurprisedtofindthattherewerenofreezers,justa
singlewalkincoolerforvegetablesthathadbeenboughtatmarketthe
daybefore.Eventhericeflourforthedosaswasgroundonthe
premises.
Whenthetourwasover,theassistantstalkedtomeabout
Rajagopal.Heisthesameasthefatherofafamily,onesaid.Any
problemIhave,headdressesit.Thecompanypaysforemployeesto
visitRajagopalshomevillageforafewdayseachyear,hetoldme,
drivingthemdowninacompanybus.WhenIgothere,Icanwitness
alltheloveandaffectionthevillagepeoplehaveforAnnachi.
Iaskedifthecompanyhadcutbackonitspackageofbenefitsasit
hasgrown.Theyveonlybeenincreasing,asecondassistantsaid.The
companyprovidesthemwithmagazinesubscriptions,acellphoneanda
motorbike,hesaid,andcoversthecostoffuel.(Theonlybenefitit
discontinuedwasahaircutallowance.)
Andwehavemechanicssothatwedonthavetogooutsidetofix
ourvehicles,thethirdtoldme.
Myfriendusedtojokewithme,Theonlythingyoucandowith
yoursalaryisputitinthebankandsaveit,thesecondassistantsaid.
Theytakecareofeverything.
In2000,SaravanaBhavanbranchedoutforthefirsttimebeyond
India,openingafranchiseinDubai,whereIndianexpatsvastly
outnumbernativebornEmiratis.AccordingtoRajagopalselderson,
ShivaKumaar,theopeningdaycrowdwaslikeforanewlyreleased
movie.TheydeventuallyexpandtoParis,Frankfurt,London,Dallas
andDoha,Qatar.Thestrategyissimple:openonerestaurantinevery
citywithalargeexpatIndianpopulation.(OneexceptionisManhattan,
whichhastwo.)Preyonhomesicknessbyimportingskilledchefsto
ensurethatthefoodtastesjustthewayitdoesinChennai.Dontbother
tryingtopursuenonIndiancustomers.
In2002,theyearthatheopenedfranchisesinSingaporeand
Sunnyvale,Calif.,Rajagopalwaschargedwithmurderingthehusband
ofawomanhewantedtomarry.In2003,hisrestaurantexpandedto
Canada,OmanandMalaysia,andhewenttojailforthefirsttime.In
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2004,alocalChennaicourtsentencedhimto10yearsinprison.Bythe
endofthatyear,theempirehadopened29branchesworldwide.
Eightmonthsintohisprisonterm,theSupremeCourtsuspended
Rajagopalssentenceonmedicalgroundswhileawaitingappeal,citing
hisdiabetes.In2009,theMadrasHighCourtnotonlyupheldthe
verdictbutalsoupgradedtheconvictionfromculpablehomicideto
murderandenhancedhissentencetolifeinprison.Afteranotherthree
monthstint,hewasoutonbailpendingaSupremeCourthearing,
whichnooneexpectstohappenanytimesoon.Thecourtswontgive
himbackhispassport,butotherwisehesfreetogoabouthislife.All
butoneofSaravanaBhavans47foreignfranchiseshaveopenedinthe
12yearssincethemurder.
Itsamazinghowhemanagedit,saidSriramV.,alocalhistorian.
Imean,ourlegalsystemisnotthatbad.
Chennaistabloidspublishedeveryluriddetailofthemurder
allegations,buttherestaurantjustkeptgrowing.Othersinthat
positionwouldhavetotallycollapsed,saidManoharan,ofthe
competingchainMuruganIdli.Peoplethoughthewasfinished.But
therewasnoimpact.
IthelpedthatRajagopalhaslittleinterestinpersonalfamehe
promotestherestaurantsbrand,nothisown,whichmakesiteasierfor
customerstocompartmentalize.AsoneSaravanaBhavanloyalisttold
me:Someofmyfriendsusedtosay,Howcanyougoandeatinhis
restaurant?Youreactuallyfatteningthewalletofamurderer.AndI
usedtotellthem,Look,IdontknowwithwhomIdobusinessinmy
daytodayactivity,whetherhesadrunkorbeatshiswife.Ihaveno
idea,butIdobusiness.Soaslongashesgivingmegoodqualityfood,I
gothere.
SaravanaBhavanemployeeshavebeenespeciallyfaithful.M.
Mahadevan,aconsultantwhohashelpedwiththechainsinternational
expansion,toldmeastorytoillustratetheirdevotion.Iwasatthe
SaravanaBhavandowntheroad,drinkingcoffeewithsomefriends,
Mahadevansaid.TheoldmanthatswhatMahadevancalls
Rajagopalwasinprisonatthattime.Thesebighulkyguyscamein,
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eightofthemtheywerelocalrowdies.Theywantedtoeatwithout
paying.Oneofthemwasbullyingthewaiter,saying:Hey,mister,hows
yourboss?Dontactfunny,Iknowhesinside.Therewasaboypouring
water,andhetoldthem:Youretalkingaboutmyboss.Yousay
anythingagainsthim,andIllputthisjugofwaterintoyourmouth.
Notonyouintoyourmouth.Iwasastonished.Theboywasthree
footnothing.Andimmediatelyallthewaiterscameandstoodnextto
him.
Forhim,theoldmanwasagod.Period.Hesgotthatkindof
loyalty.Hetakesboysfromthestreet,fromthevillages,andheteaches
them.Hepicksthemupandmoldsthem.
OnegloomyWednesdayeveninginAugust,Iwenttomeet
RajagopalatSaravanaBhavansheadquarters,passingseveralofhis
restaurantsasIinchedmywaythroughthecityseternalgridlock.
Mahadevanmetmeinthediningroomandescortedmetothebosss
office,introducingmeonthewaytoRajagopals39yearoldson,
Saravanan,whoisgraduallytakingoverthecompanysdomestic
operations.(Hiselderbrother,ShivaKumaar,runstheinternational
business.)Forawhilethethreeofussatandstaredatthewalls:Every
surfacewascoveredwithblownupimagesofRajagopalsfamilyand
favoriteHindudeities.ThensuddenlyMahadevanandSaravananrose.
Theofficedoorswungopen,andRajagopalentered.
HewasgrayerandjowlierthanhewasinthephotographsIdseen.
Heregardedtheroomwithmildamusement,bowedpolitelyand
walkedbehindhisdesk,wherehefacedaportraitofapopularguru
andfoldedhishandsforamomentofprayer.WithhimwasGanapathi
Iyer,hisoldestfriend,andapersonalassistantandavalet.Weallsat
butthevalet,whostoodreadywithaglassofwatertheinstanthisboss
coughed.Nobodyrelaxed.
IaskedRajagopalabouthisoriginsandbusinessphilosophy.Each
questionwasansweredwithacascadeofreplies:Rajagopalwould
answerinTamil,thenSaravananorMahadevanorIyerorallthree
wouldjumpintoelaborateorclarifyinEnglish,alanguageRajagopal
doesntunderstand.Itwasadynamicthatsometimesclearlyfrustrated
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theboss.
WhenIaskedaboutthemurder,everyonestartedtalkingatonce,
untilRajagopalcutimpatientlythroughthechatter.Imnot
responsibleforanyonesdeath,hesaid.Iusedtopraytomygod,why
wasIpunishedforsomeoneelsesmistake?Therewasareason,he
decided:GodwantedtogiveanopportunityformysonSaravananto
learnbusiness.Saravanansmiledfaintly.
Bythetimewefinishedtalking,itwasnearly11,andRajagopals
workdaystillwasntover.Inthefoyeroutsidehisoffice,eight
employeeswerestandinginlinewaitingtospeakwithhim.Anolder
manwithahandlebarmustacheandaproudbearingtoldmethathe
wasanightwatchmanandwastheretoaskRajagopalforapromotion.
Anothersaidhehopedtobetransferredtoadifferentbranch.Athird
saidhewantedtoinformRajagopalofhiscomingwedding.
IwentbackintoRajagopalsoffice.Hesatathisdesk,studyinga
spreadsheetwiththeaidofamagnifyingglass.Heconsultedhis
assistantandthencalledinthefirstman.Rajagopalignoredhimand
barkedintoawalkietalkie,askingthevoiceontheotherendwhathad
broughtinthismanwhostoodbeforehim.
Fromthewalkietalkiecameasurprisinganswer:Theykeep
fightingthewholenight.Thatwasnotwhathetoldmeoutside.The
manhunghishead.Rajagopalfiredhimonthespot.
Thenextmancamein,andanothervoiceonthewalkietalkietold
Rajagopalthathedbeenfiddlingwithhiscellphoneinthedining
room.Itturnedoutthatnearlyalltheemployeesinlinehadliedtome
theyweretheretobedisciplined.
Youvebeenwithusfortwoandahalfyearsdontyouknow
thatyourenotsupposedtouseyourphoneduringworkhours?
Rajagopalsaid.
Ididitbymistake,themanmumbled.
Answermyquestion!Rajagopalsnapped.
Iforgot,themansaid.
Howcanyouforget?Whenyoureinservice,youshouldserve.
Hedecidedtogivethemananotherchance.Nextupwasthe
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watchman.
Iheardyougotdrunkandabusedeveryoneandusedfoulwords,
Rajagopalsaid.Andyoushouldshaveoffyourmustache.Thesearenot
goodhabits.
Imsorry,Annachi,hesaid.Forgiveme.
HowcanI?Rajagopalasked.Theresanagetoforgive.Atyour
age,itdoesntmakesense.Thewatchmanstaredatthefloor.Areyou
listening?Rajagopalasked.
Againhedecidedtohavemercythemanwouldkeephisjobas
longashelaidoffthebooze.Hewhisperedhisthanksandleftwithout
everlookingup.
ThenightsworkwasoverRajagopalsatbackinhischair.What
todo?hesaid.Everyonemakesmistakes.
AttheconclusionofRajagopalsappealtrialin2009,the
MadrasHighCourtissueda30,000worddocumentthatservedasits
definitivestatementonthecase.Byandlarge,awitnesscannotbe
expectedtopossessaphotographicmemorytorecallthedetailsofthe
incidentandtheactualwordsuttered,thecourtwarns.Itisnotasifa
videotapeisreplayedonthementalscreen.Butthisistheversionof
eventsthatthecourtfoundmostcredible.
Accordingtothedocument,Rajagopalpossiblyontheadviceof
hisastrologerbecamedeterminedtomarryJeevajothi,theyoung
daughterofoneofhisassistantmanagers.Thatwouldhavemadeher
Rajagopalsthirdsimultaneouswife:In1972,hemarriedthemotherof
hissons,andin1994,hemarriedthewifeofoneofhisemployees.
JeevajothiwasnotinterestedinRajagopal.Shewasinlovewith
herbrothersmathtutor,Santhakumar.In1999,Jeevajothiand
Santhakumareloped,butRajagopalsfixationpersistedhegaveher
jewelry,dressesandseveralinstallmentsofcashtohelpheropena
travelagency.WhileJeevajothiacceptedthegifts,shecontinuedto
resistRajagopalsadvances.OnSept.28,2001,Rajagopalcameto
JeevajothiandSanthakumarshouseatmidnightandwarned
Santhakumarthathehadtwodaystosevertheirrelationship.Hetold
Jeevajothithathissecondwife,too,hadatfirstrejectedhim,butnow
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shewaslivingaqueenlife.
Theyoungcoupletriedtofleetoaplacewheretheyhoped
Rajagopalwouldntfindthem,butfiveofRajagopalsemployees,ledby
arestaurantmanagernamedDaniel,interceptedthem.Thehenchmen
forcedthecoupleintoanAmbassadorcaranddrovethemtoa
SaravanaBhavanwarehouseinKKNagar,whereRajagopalappeared.
Accordingtothecourtsnarrative,Rajagopalhikeduphisdhotiand
gaveSanthakumarabeating.JeevajothifellatRajagopalsfeetand
beggedhimtostop.RajagopaltoldhismentotakeSanthakumartothe
nextroomandcontinuebeatinghim.Jeevajothisatinthecornerand
wept.
Thenextday,DanielcalledJeevajothitoapologizeandsuggested
thatshegotothepolice.
ThoughRajagopalsmenheldJeevajothiandSanthakumarunder
akindofhousearrest,theyescapedonOct.12underthepretextof
goingouttoattendafelicitationfunctionforRajagopal.Instead,they
wenttothecitypolicecommissionersofficetofileacomplaint.Six
dayslater,Rajagopalsemployeeskidnappedthecoupleagainand
forciblyseparatedthem.TheypushedJeevajothiintoaMercedeswith
Rajagopal,whobrandishedaphotocopyofherpolicecomplaintand
askedhermockinglyaboutitscontents.
JeevajothididntknowwhatbecameofSanthakumar.Hereached
herbyphonetwodayslater,tellingherthatRajagopalhadpaidDaniel
500,000rupees($10,000)tokillhim,butDanielhadinsteadlethim
escapeandadvisedhimtohideoutinMumbai.Sheurged
Santhakumartocomehometohertogether,Jeevajothisaid,theyd
pleadwithRajagopaltoleavethemalone.Itisobvious,thecourt
wrote,thattheiroverwhelmingloveforeachotherpersuadedthemto
taketherisk.
Laterthatnight,thecouple,joinedbyJeevajothisparentsand
brother,wenttoSaravanaBhavanheadquarterstomeetRajagopal.He
toldthemtowaitinanearbyroom.ThenheinterrogatedDanielabout
whathappenedtoSanthakumar.Danielliedandsaidthathehadtied
himuponarailwaytrack,whereatrainranhimover,andthenhe
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burnedhisclothes.Withadramaticflourish,Rajagopalthencalled
Santhakumarintotheroom.Whosthisthen,heaskedDaniel,
Santhakumarsghost?DanielstartedbeatingSanthakumarthereinthe
office,enragedthathedrevealedhisbetrayalofRajagopal.Jeevajothi
andherfamilytriedtointervene.EventuallyRajagopalandhis
henchmenputthemallintoavan,which,accordingtothecourt,took
themtoaspecialistinafarawayvillageforremovalofwitchcraft.
Twodayslater,RajagopalsmenforcedSanthakumarintoacar
withDaniel,andtheydrovenorth.OnOct.31,highupintheWestern
GhatsmountainrangeneararesorttowncalledKodaikanal,forest
officialsdiscoveredabody.Anassistantsurgeonatthelocalhospital
concludedinhispostmortemthatthecauseofSanthakumarsdeath
wasasphyxiaduetothrottling.Thepolicelaterfoundthealleged
murderweaponasarongundertheseatofDanielscar.
DanielwasconvictedofmurderalongwithRajagopalandhasalso
beenreleasedonbail,butIwasneverabletotrackhimdown.
Jeevajothi,too,hasmadeherselfimpossibletofind.
ThreedaysafterImetRajagopalinChennai,Itookashort
flighttovisitthevillagewherehegrewup.Rajagopalsdriverpickedme
up,andhebeamedwhenIaskedhimwhatthebosswaslike.Heslike
alivinggodtous,hesaid.Heunderstandseveryproblem,andhe
resolvesit.
ThevillagesnamehasbeenupgradedfromPunnaiaditoPunnai
Nagar,becauseofRajagopalsdevelopmentofthearea,hetoldme.The
busevenstopstherenow.Intermsofpopulation,PunnaiNagarisno
biggerthanitwaswhenRajagopalwasborn.Yetthevillagehasbeen
transformed.Inthemiddleofthereddirtmoonscape,Rajagopalhas
erectedasurrealmonumenttohissuccess,intheformofafouracre
SaravanaBhavancampus.ThecenterpieceisamilliondollarHindu
temple,whichisflankedbyaSaravanaBhavanrestaurantthatemploys
140peopleallforavillagethathasfewerthan90homes.
AworkertookmeonatourofRajagopalshouse,whichhebuiltin
1994onthespotwherehischildhoodhutoncestood,andwherehehas
increasinglybeenspendinghistime.Itsahugebeigeblock,nearlyall
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ofitgivenovertodormitoryroomsforhisstaff.Theonlydecorations
arepicturesofgods.Theworkerledmetoablackcouchonthesecond
floor,andafewminuteslater,Rajagopalemergedfromabackroom
andsatonachairoppositeme.GanapathiIyerwasthereagain,aswere
hisassistantandhisvalet,whoprickedRajagopalsfingerforablood
sugartest.ButthistimeRajagopalwaslesswillingtoletthemcontrol
theconversation.
Iaskedhimaboutarumorthatwhileinprisonhehadmanagedto
improvethefoodservedbytheprisoncanteen.Youcantchange
anythingthere,hesaid.Ihadtospendonelakh[100,000rupees]
everymonthinordertogethomefooddeliveredtome.
Donttellhimaboutthis,IyersaidtoRajagopal.Dowehaveto
talkaboutthecorruption?
Theyshouldknowhowcorruptweare,Rajagopalsaid.Wecant
justkeepbraggingthatwearegoodallthetime.Thetruthhastobe
told.
Iaskedhimwhathelikesleastabouthiswork.
Idontlikeemployeesdrinkingandlying,hesaid.Ifyouaskme,
IdontlikethatIwentafterJeevajothi.
Sir,notthat,Iyersaid,justofficework,officework.
TheresnothingIdislikeaboutthework,Rajagopalsaid.
AfterawhileRajagopalsaidhewasgettingtired.Aswegotupto
leave,hetalkedabouthowimportantitwasforsuccessfulvillagerslike
himtosupporttheplacestheycamefrom.Developingvillageswas
Gandhisdream,hesaid.IbelieveinGandhi.
IaskedwhatheadmiredmostaboutGandhi,andhelaughed.I
likethathehadagirloneacharm.Heturnedtomytranslator.Tell
himthathavinggirlsaroundkeepsaguyyoungforever.
Tellhimtheselastcommentswerejustajoke,hisassistantsaid.
ShortlybeforeIleftChennai,ImetagainwithRajagopalsson
Saravanan.Thistimeitwasjustthetwoofus,andwetalkedforhours
inthefoyeroutsidehisfathersoffice.Saravananisalargebutgentle
man,hishuskyvoicerarelymuchlouderthanawhisper.
Hedescribedhisfatherasakeepguessingcharacter.Youdont
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knowwhathewillcomeupwanting,hesaid.Aphonecallcomes,and
youhavetobedeadsurewhathesaskingandwhatyoureanswering.
Thatfearisthereforeverybody.Isheanintimidatingbosstoworkfor?
Iasked.Whenhewantsthingsdoneacertainway,hesquite
intimidating,Saravanansaid.Ithastobedoneatanycost.
Ifhedhadhischoice,hesaid,hewouldhavebecomeanengineer.
Mydadsaid,No,wecomefromabusinesscommunityyouhaveto
studycommerce.Sohedidtwoyearsofcommerce,andthen
Rajagopaltoldhimhehadtostudyhotelmanagement.Fromtherehis
fatherassignedhimtoasevenyearrotationthroughthecompanys
departments:purchasingvegetables,workingthegraveyardshiftinthe
kitchen,manningaSaravanasweetsshop,makingicecream,working
inmaintenanceandaccountingandhumanresources.
ItsclearthatSaravanannevergaveuphisdreamofbecomingan
engineerhejusttransferredhisideastohisfathersbusiness.
Rajagopalsexactingstandardsweredictatedbytheinstinctofaself
mademan.Saravananwantstotranslatethatinstinctintoascience,
andwhenhetalksaboutthecompanythatsbecominghis,his
conversationispepperedwithtermsthatwouldbeforeigntohisfather,
likemanagementinformationsystemandtotaldissolvedsolids.Ina
biochemicallabSaravanansetuponthetopfloorofthecompanysice
creamfactory,hehasbeentryingtodeterminetheexactchemical
compositionofSaravanasdishesintheiridealform,andthelabuses
thisinformationtotestdailysamplesfromeachofthecompanys
Chennaibranchestoensurethatallaresupplyingthesamequality.
Asthecompanycontinuestogrow,manpowerisaworry.
Saravanansaidheiscommittedtomakingeverythingfromfresh
ingredientsinfact,hewantstotakeitfurther,andhehasbeen
experimentingwithreplacingtheartificialstabilizerinSaravanas
otherwiseallnaturalhousebrandicecreamwithflaxseed.Butsuch
cookingrequiresvastkitchenstaffs,andasbettereducationreaches
moreandmoreIndians,hesaid,fewerworkersareinterestedinthat
kindoflabor.
OnesolutionSaravananlikesisautomation.Anotherinhouselab
5/7/2014 Masala Dosa to Die For - NYTimes.com
http://www.nytimes.com/2014/05/11/magazine/masala-dosa-to-die-for.html?hp 13/13
isdevelopingprototypesforeverythingfromcoffeemachinestovada
fryers,accordingtoSaravanaBhavansveryparticularspecifications.
Herecognizes,though,thatthemassutilityofsuchmachinesisstill
yearsawayinthemeantime,personnelremainsthecompanysmost
treasuredasset,sohehasalsosystematizedthehiringprocess.Anin
housemedicalteamrecordseachapplicantsvitalstatisticsusing
softwareSaravanandeveloped.Acoffeeman,heexplained,shouldbe
smallandquiet,whileadosachefneedstobeatleast5foot6.
Buthewasquicktonotethelimitsofsuchalgorithms.Justthat
morning,hesaid,themedicalteamalertedhimtotheirconcernsovera
particularapplicant:Theynoticedthathehadcigaretteburnsonhis
forearm,apparentlyselfinflicted.Saravanandecidedtocalltheman
andaskhimwhathappened.Hetoldme,Ihadaloveaffair,itfailed,
shegotmarried,Igotagitated,Saravanansaid.Hemadeamistake
thatwasasmallpartofhislife.Thecompanyisstrict,butnot
unforgiving.Hetoldthemanhewouldhirehim.Andifthejobworked
out,SaravanaBhavanwouldpaytoerasehisscars.
Rollo Romig is a freelance writer in Turkey. He last wrote for the magazine about the plight of
celebrity elephants in India.
Editor: Samantha Henig
A version of this article appears in print on May 11, 2014, on page MM32 of the Sunday
Magazine with the headline: Masala Dosa To Die For.
Next in Magazine
Why Only One Top Banker Went to Jail for the Financial
Crisis
2014 The New York Times Company

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