2

Everywhere you go

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Creative Director

This Months Cover

Image: Alex Cui
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Costume: HULOS by Hai Long
and The Huy

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Contents

WINE & DINE

RESTAURANT REVIEWS

54

A French restaurant opened by an emperors

granddaughter, eccentric Korean food, and Cantonese
specialties are part of this months culinary journey

FEATURES

P10 datebook
With these events, you'll never have to be
bored again

P16 troi oi
See why Kobe beef, dog meat and a bikesharing program made our noteworthy
numbers this month

P18 the bulletin

Checking out the latest promotions and
openings

P22 Dad, Youre a Tough

Art Critic
Fun and great alternatives to throwing away
your childs piles of artwork

P24 What a Hoot!

P28 How to Build a Boat

See how a team of skilled locals construct a
catamaran

P50 Shine a Light

An in-house staff of live parrots and owls are

ready to greet you at this whimsical caf

Two restaurants are bringing the dine-inthe-dark concept to Saigon, we speak to both
owners

P26 Living Among the Dead

P74 Oh, Grow Up!

Out of desperation, a community of displaced

people decided to build a neighborhood above
a cemetery

From over-the-top action packed selfies to teddy

bear tea parties and a treehouse resort, time to
reverse the aging process and be a kid again

COVER STORY

THE ROYAL TREATMENT

image by neil featherstone

The luxury market is a new but rapidly growing

segment in Vietnam and its people are developing a taste
for only the best of what the world has to offer

34
P84 Behind the Forbidden City

P33 SAIGON MYTHBUSTERS

P92 Home Interior

Promoting and preserving the ancient cultural

heritage of Hue through one-of-a-kind royal robes

What is a "cultured" neighborhood? Do the

numbers on the trees indicate their age?

You dont have to scream, shout or use tons of

velvet to make a bold statement

P90 My Life As

P79 Postcards from Vietnam

P93 Higher Learning

A shoe shine boy and the struggles of roaming

the streets for clients

A summer in the cool mountains of Sapa

turns into an annual art festival

Defining excellence in Early Years setting

COLUMNS

P80 LIFE'S A TRIP

P32 legal ease

A mothers worry of losing her child if her
German husband wins custody overseas

Mattress runs, fat fingers and blurring the

line of whats legal and illegal to get that
free and/or cheap travel deal

P97 Are You a Member?

A humorous look at the ups and downs of a
crosscultural relationship

Datebook
What's on in Saigon this month...

OCTOBER 7
OCTOBER 4
What: Deutsches Eck/German Corner One Year Anniversary Party
Where: Deutsches Eck/German Corner (A001-003 Nguyen Van Linh,
Hung Vuong 1, Phu My Hung, D7); 4pm to late
About: To celebrate its first anniversary, the restaurant will be
serving 20 German beers (Bitburger, Konig Pilsener Draught, Erdinger,
Hofbrau, Benediktiner and more) with plenty of special offers,
discounts and a lucky draw. A German style BBQ will be available and
served by a real German waitress.
Contact: Call 5410 6695 or email nhahanggocduc@gmail.com for more
details

What: Drawing Saigon

Where: VinSpace Art Studio and VinSpace Garage
About: Bridget March is a professional artist from the UK who
specializes in watercolor paintings and now offers a short course
to teach the techniques needed to be more successful with this
challenging medium.
Contact: Visit www.vingallery.com for more details

OCTOBER 8
What: 20 Year Anniversary Charity Gala Dinner
Where: The New World Saigon Hotel (76 Le Lai, D1); Ticket priced at
VND4,200,000 per person and includes a one-night stay with breakfast
for two in the Residence Club Deluxe room.
About: To celebrate its 20th anniversary, The New World Saigon
Hotel will host a charity event and dinner. At 8am a traditional lion
dance will take place along with an ao dai performance. The evening
begins with cocktails, Champagne and hors doeuvres followed by a
five-course dinner, which has been expertly paired with fine wines.
Entertainment includes an illusionist, live acoustic performances, a DJ
and a live auction to support Christina Noble Childrens Foundation.
All proceeds from ticket sales will go to charity.
Contact: Email Ly.Le@newworldhotels.com for more details

OCTOBER 10
What: Canadian Thanksgiving Pot Luck
Where: Body by Jovie (Block B, Riverside Residence, Nguyen Luong
Bang Street, D7); 6:30pm; Free if you bring a pot luck dish
About: Although its a Canadian themed event, guests are welcome to
bring any international dish they like. Prizes will be awarded for best
dish. There will be a Zumba kids demonstration and all new attendants
will receive a free three-day trial pass for yoga, Pilates, Zumba or TRX
Suspension classes.
Contact: RSVP by October 6 to info@bodybyjovie.com
10

OCTOBER 10
What: French Pop with
Singer Sophie Maurin
Where: IDECAF (28 Le Thanh
Ton, D1); 8pm; VND160,000
About: Sophie Maurin is a
classically educated singer/
songwriter who has taken her
country by storm with her
lyrics and the sweetness of her
voice. Her first album, Sophie
Maurin, revealed a talent that
could be inherited from Scott
Joplin on the piano, the Beatles
at Abbey Road or the Double
Six in front of a blank page: lots
of freedom, lots of rigor and
lots of invention.
Contact: Call 3823 9968
for more details

OCTOBER 10
What: Second Annual
AusCham Scramble
Where: Vietnam Golf
and Country Club (Long
Thanh My, D9)
About: Entry fee
of VND2.6 million
(members), and VND2.9
million (non-members),
gives players: Green (4
Ball Scramble format)
and caddy fees; AusCham
Scramble shirt and hat;
breakfast, lunch and
dinner, drinks; buses to
and from the golf course;
and prizes including a
chance to win a HarleyDavidson. Proceeds from
the day will be donated
to charity.
Contact: Email
office@auschamvn.org
or call 3832 9912
for more details

OCTOBER 10 - 12
What: Oktoberfest
Where: Deutsches Eck/German Corner (A001-003 Nguyen Van
Linh, Hung Vuong 1, Phu My Hung, D7); 4pm to late
About: To celebrate Oktoberfest, the world's largest beer festival
held annually in Munich, Bavaria, Germany, German Corner is
holding a three-day event showcasing German culture. Traditional
Bavarian fun is supplied by a BBQ with pork knuckles, sausages,
pretzels and more. And dont forget to wash it all down with a
choice of 20 German beers all served by a real German waitress.
And to keep the fun going, there will be a lucky draw, a beer
drinking contest, arm wrestling challenge and plenty more.
Contact: Call 5410 6695 or email nhahanggocduc@gmail.com for
more details

OCTOBER 11
What: Art Market
Where: The Cube Bar (31B Ly Tu
Trong, D1); 10am - 4pm
About: Vendors will sell
handmade arts and crafts,
paintings, drawings and limited
edition prints. Photographers are
welcome to showcase their works
as well. This is a great opportunity
for art lovers to come and grab
original designs.
Contact: Visit www.vingallery.com
for more details

OCTOBER 14
What: Art Babble Not Everyone is an Artist
Where: The Snap Caf (32 Tran Ngoc Dien, D2); 7pm
About: As part of a more inclusive approach to culture
and art in Asia, VinGallery has started a program
where guest speakers from the art community will talk
about art and photography. The program opens with
Bridget March and her summer in Sapa, the life and
culture of ethnic minorities and changing young lives
- which will be available as an illustrated book in 2015.
Future talks are scheduled for November 5, 25 and
December 9. Sessions last 40 minutes, with networking
at the bar afterwards.
Contact: Visit www.vingallery.com for more details
11

OCTOBER 18

OCTOBER 15 & 16
What: The Mist
Where: Saigon Opera House (7 Cong Truong Lam Son, D1)
About: Performed by Arabesque, The Mist is a new theatrical show that depicts Vietnamese farming life through
contemporary dance, live music, colorful lighting effects and audience interaction. The Mist tells the story of farmers
in a village going about their everyday routine in the early morning mist, such as tending rice paddies, husking rice
and preparing for the early morning market. These activities and emotions are expressed through symbolic dance
movements combined with the use of traditional working clothes and authentic rural props, so as to deliver a typical
Vietnamese countryside experience. The live music is improvised against the backdrop of the dancers. The Mist is
choreographed by the directors from Lang Toi and A O Show.
Contact: For tickets email reservation@themist.com.vn or call 094 933 6133

12

What: Charity Bike

Ride for Ho Tram
Water Safety
Where: Two Starts:
Cat Lai (6am, 140km)
or Long Thanh (7am,
80km). Finish at Ho
Tram Community Pool
About: Third annual
bike ride from HCMC
to Ho Tram to raise
money and awareness
of water safety in
Vietnam. Ho Tram
Water Safety is a
consortium of
people and
organizations
concerned by the high
incidence of children
drowning in Vietnam
and committed to
improving the level of
water safety in the
Ho Tram region.
Register at
The Bike Shop in
District 2, entry fee
of VND1.6 million
includes BBQ, beers,
bike shirt and return
bus transport.
Contact: Visit
Facebook: Ho Tram
Water Safety for
more details

OCTOBER 21 - 24
What: Ta Lai Longhouse Children Camp
Where: Cat Tien National Park
About: Send your children on a jungle adventure at the Ta
Lai Longhouse. This months camp has a special program
incorporating the iPad. Through guided instruction using various
apps on the iPad, each workshop teaches a practical skill to give
kids a greater understanding of the great outdoors and the world
around us. VND6 million per child includes all expenses.
Contact: Visit www.talai-adventure.vn for more details

OCTOBER 20 - November 29
What: The Landmark Health Club Annual Squash Tournament
Where: The Landmark Health Club (15th & 16th Floors, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1)
About: Competitors from men, women, beginner, intermediate and advanced
levels are welcome to compete in the Annual Squash Tournament. Registration
fee for non-members is VND500,000 and includes all tournament matches.
Registration starts from October 1 -15. Matches begin October 20 and the
finals tournament on November 29 (prizes will be awarded on this day). The
Landmark Health Club features a fully-equipped gym, yoga studio, rooftop
swimming pool, saunas, and the only squash court in central Saigon.
Contact: For more info, call Viet at 3822 2098 ext. 176/090 380 4057
or email hc@thelandmarkvietnam.com

OCTOBER 24
What: Anchorsong (Case Study, Thoughts Recordings Tokyo) & Kay Suzuki
Where: The Observatory (corner of Le Lai & Ton That Tung, D1);
10pm; VND100,000
About: Since moving to London in 2004, Kay has been heavily
involved in its diverse club scenes and has a debut on the BBCs
award-winning party/label CO-OP in 2007. While releasing remixes,
re-edits and original production on several labels in Europe, the
US and Japan, he also launched his own label Round in Motion
in 2010, and subsequently his first album, Consciousness. The first
single Music, which featured West African traditional musicians, has
become a cult hit in South Africas deep house scene.
Contact: Visit www.theobservatory-hcmc.com for more details

OCTOBER 24 & 25
What: Balade en France
Where: Hotel Equatorial (242 Tran Binh Trong, D5); 6pm 11pm; Adult tickets are VND150,000 in advance, VND300,000 at the door; Children
(6-14), VND120,000; free under 6
About: Around 1,800 people are expected to attend this two-night event. Visitors can buy an entrance ticket granting access to the event,
including entertainment and games. Coupons sold for VND20,000 each can be exchanged for food or beverages.
Balade en France is the annual rendezvous for Francophiles who want to discover and learn more about French cuisine and wine.
Contact: Email catherine.tran@diplomatie.gouv.fr for more details

13

OCTOBER 25
What: Thristian Richards
Where: The Observatory (corner of Le Lai & Ton That Tung, D1); 10pm;
VND100,000
About: One of the original architects of the Boiler Room, which has grown to
become a globally respected and popular underground music show, Thristian has
built a reputation as a passionate and exciting DJ, demonstrating a natural talent as
a music selector. As the Lead Programmer/A&R for Boiler Room, hes responsible
for the dynamic and eclectic line-ups that have become synonymous with Boiler
Room sessions from London to Los Angeles and Berlin to Cape Town. Supporting
act will be DJ Hibiya Line and Nic Ford.
Contact: Visit www.theobservatory-hcmc.com for more details

OCTOBER 25
What: Arts for Mobility Presents Vietnams Young
Virtuosos 2014
Where: Saigon Opera House; VND500,000/adult; 6pm
refreshment and art auction, 7:30pm 10pm concert
About: Arts for Mobility, in conjunction with Saigon
Chamber Music, will showcase musical talents from
young virtuosos. Compositions by Bach, Mozart,
Schumann and others will be performed with a charity
auction during intermission.
Contact: Visit www.artsformobility.com
for more details

Until OCTOBER 30
What: Autumn Galleria
Where: San Art (3 Me Linh, Binh
Thanh); Tuesday Saturday
(10:30am - 6:30pm)
About: Here autumn takes shape
by means of drawing, painting and
photography. Visit the fictional
school from Thao Nguyen's
paintings, meet a family in their
TV time framed inside Phan
Quang's photograph, contemplate
in front of Nguyen Thai Tuan's
gate, see nature through Le Phi
Long's eyes and come back to
a hidden reality of death with
Nguyen Van Du. Last but not
least, take a peek at Bich Phuong's
painting the way her subject looks
at you.
Contact: Visit www.san-art.org for
more details

14

SOURCE www.insidethemagic.net / pixelsandpapers.wordpress.com

OCTOBER 31 & NOVEMBER 1

What: Saigon Players' Rocky Horror Halloween Madness
Where: McSorleys Square (4 Thao Dien, D2); Film starts at 7:30pm
About: This is the annual screening (with shadow actors) of one of
the most famous cult movies of all time - The Rocky Horror Picture
Show! Come dressed in your fishnets or stilettos or as your favorite
character in the movie. They will provide props for the audience
participation sections. Proceeds go to Operation Smile Vietnam and
Viet Hearts.
Contact: Email saigonplayers@gmail.com for more details

NOVEMBER 1
What: Saigon Melbourne Cup
Where: Reverie Hotel in Times Square, 11am 4pm; USD150 a ticket
About: Hosted by AusCham, the event is a local celebration of the
annual Australian horse race event, the Melbourne Cup, held on
the first Tuesday of November and dating back to 1861. The Saigon
Melbourne Cup will have special horse races where people can
purchase horses with cash to win prizes from sponsors. The cash will
be donated directly to charity.
In keeping with tradition of the Melbourne Cups Fashions on the
Field, there will be Fashions on the Gon which will be divided into
two categories: The Pro Show (10 Vietnamese models dressed in ao
dai will wear striking hats designed by Kan Kanemura exclusively for
the Saigon Melbourne Cup) and The Peoples Performance.
Guests can register in advance for some expert tips on the catwalk
provided by Soul Music Academy.
Contact: Email events@auschamvn.org for more details
15

Troi Oi
The country by numbers

Over 5 million

dogs are killed annually for meat in Vietnam. According

to the Asia Canine Protection Alliance (ACPA) Vietnam
statistics, Vietnam ranks second on the list of Asian
countries which eat the most dog meat, following China,
which kills 10 million canines per year.
The main sources for dog meat in Vietnam are smuggled
from Thailand, Laos and Cambodia, in addition to domestic
dogs that are stolen.

16

FIRST

Kobe beef farm in Lam Dong

Province will soon be producing
meat for consumption by 2015.
Nguyen Tri Duc Vu, director
of Kobe Beef Corporation, the
company that owns the farm, said the quantity would be
limited at first because the farm will only be able to produce
50 cows per year.
These Vietnamese-raised cattle are only 50 percent Kobe
cows, which means they are half-Kobe and half-Vietnamese
by blood. It will take some time to produce purebred Japanese
Kobe cows," Vu added.
The first generation of hybrid Kobe cows will be bred
with the DNA of American wagyu to produce the second
generation, which will have 75 percent Kobe DNA in its blood.
The same process will be applied to the second generation to
produce a third generation with 100 percent Kobe DNA.

ENGLISH CURRICULUM

major cities in Vietnam will host a pilot bike-sharing program in 2015.

The proposal for the program was submitted by the Transport Ministry
late last year and has garnered support from Deputy Prime Minister
Hoang Trung Hai. As part of the plan, by 2015, cities must submit
a detailed roadmap to address traffic issues and improve public
transport. Bike-sharing schemes have seen incredible success over
the past two years in major cities like New York and Beijing. Chinas
Wuhan and Hangzhou bike-sharing take the crown for the largest in
the world with 90,000 and 60,000 bicycles, respectively.
Since details about Vietnams bike-sharing program have yet to be released,
it will be interesting which model is adopted. Many programs, such as New York
Citys Citybike, are designed for quick 30-45 minute trips while others - the
German Rail Company's "Call a Bike" - encourage trips of up to 48 hours.

QUALIFIED & CARING STAFF

BILLION

dollar highway cracks after opening.

A long crack has appeared on a new
expressway connecting Hanoi to the
rural northwest just a few days after
it was opened to traffic. Investors
blamed the soft ground it was built on.
The crack was discovered in a section between Yen Bai to Phu Tho province on the
245km Noi Bai Lao Cai Expressway, which drew a USD1.5 billion investment from
the Vietnam Expressway Corporation (VEC).
The Ministry of Transport has instructed VEC to fix the crack and issue warnings
to those traveling on that portion of the highway. According to VEC, the crack spans
over ten meters and emerged in a section built over a rice paddy. The company has
announced that it is monitoring possible sinkage on the road.
VEC said the damaged road was designed and built by the Keangnam
Construction Company, which followed the proper protocols for surveying and
treating the loose foundation.
Le Kim Thanh, deputy general director of VEC, said the crack was an unexpected
fault because it appeared in the middle of the street and not near survey points.
It was affected by two strong typhoons and heavy rain. Flooded land in the
surrounding area has accelerated the sinking. The results of our survey will
determine whether the sinkage is the result of natural causes or poor construction.

SMALL CLASS SIZES

COMPETITIVE FEES

Residential Area No.5,

Thanh My Loi Ward, D2
(08) 3742 STAR / (08) 3742 7827
www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn

17

The Bulletin
Promotions and News in HCMC and beyond...

Waxing for Men & Women

Have you been searching for a
professional Brazilian waxing
service? With the ever-growing
desire for the pre-eminent wax, SiLK
Waxworks (88 Xuan Thuy, D2; www.
silkwaxworks.com) has officially
arrived. Offering beauty services
for all areas of the body, including
Brazilians and boyzilians, HCMC
now has a charming beauty salon
for men and women in the form of
SiLK to do just that. Priding itself on
quality and class, their waxperts are
meticulously primed in this specialist
area to grant the best possible results
for their clients.
SiLK Waxworks is a bespoke service
salon in that they use the most
suitable wax formula for all different
areas of the body. They use hard wax
for boyzilians/Brazilian/face and a
softer wax for the upper & lower body,
leaving you unburned and beautiful.

The Reverie Saigon

Hotel Set to Open
The Reverie Saigon hotel
is set to open this winter
within the new 39-floor
Times Square building in
District 1.The hotel will
redefine urban opulence
in Vietnam with 286 guest
rooms and suites; five dining
and nightlife options, with
restaurants ranging from
Cantonese to Italian; as well
as the longest bar counter
in Saigon the length of a
city block. There will also
be an outdoor pool, a 1,200
square meter spa and fitness
center, 16 function spaces,
a helicopter pad, and a fleet
of high-end vehicles to
serve guests including two
limited edition Rolls-Royce
Phantom Dragons.

TRUST TRANSLATIONS
FAST, ACCURATE

ENGLISH TO VIETNAMESE TRANSLATION

Official documents & certificates

Visas & applications
Personal & business correspondence
Full website text
Literature & full-length books/manuscripts
Novel publishing/republishing in Vietnamese
Fluid, pleasant Vietnamese renderings
Reasonable rates contact for a quote
Quick turnaround, attention to detail guaranteed.

18

Contact: Quynh (quynhnhd@yahoo.com) | YM: quynhnhd | SMS: 090 978 3108

JAPAN RAIL PASS

Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon Events

October 20 - Vietnamese Womens Day Indulgence
Take a break from the hard working day and celebrate
Vietnamese Womens Day with an indulgent treat. First glass for
ladies is free of charge. Cocktails from VND120,000++/glass at
Atrium Lounge 5th Floor.
October 24 Beer Night
Didnt get enough Oktoberfest? Get the weekend off to a flying
start with a great beer night. Free flow of beer including
a complimentary homemade spicy chips and dips set.
VND170,000++/person at the Atrium Lounge 5th Floor
October 31 - Escape the Halloween Crowd
Theres surely no better way to experience your Halloween than
by dipping into a special Halloween cocktail crafted by a Ghost
Mixologist. Set of three cocktails is priced at VND300,000++ at
the Atrium Lounge 5th Floor
Visit www.riversidehotelsg.com for more details

Maison Mikio Promotion

In October, Maison Mikio
Boutique Salon (8 Ton Dat Tien
Street in the Garden Plaza 2
Complex, Phu My Hung) is
offering a free scalp care for
customers receiving haircuts.
And during Happy Hour (9am12pm, Tuesdays-Fridays) all hair
services (excluding re-growth
and highlighting treatments)
are 30 percent off while nail
services are 20 percent off.
The salon and spa offers clients
a spacious yet intimate setting
for salon and beauty services
such as hair styling, coloring,
manicures, pedicures, skincare
and waxing. Call 5412 4773 or
visit Facebook: maisonmikio for
more info.

Go Exploring
Resident historian Tim
Dolings long-awaited
publication on walking
tours through Saigon/
Cholon (discussed in Ois
March 2014 issue in the
article Living in the Past)
was released last month and
is now available at Fahasa
Bookstore (40 Nguyen Hue,
D1). Exploring Ho Chi Minh
City will teach you more
about the history of this
city in half an hour than
youll have learnt during
your entire stay here and
by following Tims trails for
yourself on foot, youll soon
learn to spot living examples
of Saigons heritage.

Budget-friendly rail experience in Japan

JAPAN RAIL PASS provides you
the most cost-effective mean of your travel all around Japan

Great Value Price

6,120,000 VND
7-DAY JRPASS

The Japan national Rail Pass is for unlimited travel

on Japan rail lines and selected buses and ferries.
With 12,400 miles of tracks you can rail almost anywhere in Japan.
- Unlimited rail travel throughout Japan on the JR lines
- Available for a 7, 14 or 21 consecutive day period
- This pass offers Economy (2nd class) or green (1st class) travel

ENJOY YOUR UNLIMITED TRAVEL IN JAPAN

HCMC Branch
M Floor, 233 Dong Khoi st, D1
08.3939.0808(JPN)/08.3939.0804(VN)
sgn.objp@his-world.com

AEON MALL Office

30 Bo Bao Tan Thang, Tan Phu Dist.
08.3559.4331
sgn.sky.out@his-world.com

HANOI Branch
3rd Floor, 41A Ly Thai To st, Hoan Kiem Dist.
04.3923.3370

Hair Bar Discount

The recently-opened Hair Bar (68 Ngo Duc Ke, D1) is offering Oi
readers a 30 percent discount on hair services, simply mention Oi
Vietnam magazine when booking a service.
The bar is a new salon concept where customers can get their
hair washed, blow dried, and then styled while enjoying a cocktail
or two. This promotion is valid until the end of October.

The Bean Store

The Bean Store (399 Vo Van Tan, D3 and B3-10 Union Square
Vincom A, D1) recently became the first and only soy-based caf
to introduce soy ice cream in Ho Chi Minh City. FromOctober
15to 31, both locations will offer a buy 1 get 1 free soft serve
soy ice cream.
The caf specializes in soybeans soybean pudding and bean
curd are the most popular. Both are based on a soy milk jelly,
made mixing soy milk with a natural gelatin. The puddings are
then mixed with various flavors (matcha, pandan leaf, chocolate
or vanilla) and then poured into molds and chilled to create a
kaleidoscope of individual mini-desserts.
The bean curd puddings use the same soy base, but are then
paired with a host of different extras from lotus and longan (the
Bean Curd Lolo Mix), pomelo, mango and watermelon (the Bean
Curd LA Mix) or the more traditional hot ginger syrup.
Visit Facebook: TheBeanStoreVN for more details.
19

An Lam Ninh Van Bay Promotion

The resort has launched a Luxury Family Retreat package for
VND9,650,000 per night. The package includes:One night at
Lagoon Villa for two adults and two children (under 12 years old)
sharing parents bed; Half board Dinner for 2 adults and two
children with daily themed dinner (buffets or set menus); Round
trip shared speedboat transfer service; Refreshing welcome drink
at Lounge and daily fruit basket in villa; Complimentary services:
kayaking, snorkeling, fishing and walking trail; Babysitter on
request; and a Special daily kids activity program. The promotion
is valid from November 1 December 18. Contact reservations at
(84) 058 3624 964 or emailreservation@anlamnvb.com.

Save Vietnam's endangered

wildlife with WAR

20

Au Lac do Brazil Delivers

Au Lac do Brazil (238 Pasteur, D3) is now offering delivery for
those who want to enjoy the taste of Brazilian cuisine at home.
Log onto either www.eat.vnorwww.chonmon.vn to order. Choose
between 10 different dishes, based on their normal Churrasco
dinner but now in a lighter form. Serving Saigon for more than
10 years, Au Lac do Brazil was the first authentic Brazilian
Churrascaria in Vietnam that brought the all-you-can-eat
Brazilian style BBQ dining concept meat is brought to
your table on skewers by a passador and served to your
hearts content.

21

P A RE N T I N G F E AT URE

Dad, Youre a
Tough Art Critic
Alternative options to binning your childs mounting artwork
Text BY Michael arnold

I may have been a little overenthusiastic

in purchasing a professional artists easel
and brush set for my two-year-old, but Ive
always been big on encouraging my kids
to be as creative as possible and when I
found myself wandering past the row of
art supply shops on Le Loi, I just couldnt
resist. It turned out to be a great idea we
got set up on the balcony in the relative
cool of the late afternoon, her wearing
a painting apron and beret, me playing
some inspiring music and trying my best
not to be annoyed at her for paying more
attention to mixing all the blobs of paint
together on the palette instead of applying
them to the canvas.
Eventually she seemed to get the point,
and over time, she managed to turn out
a healthy pile of masterpieces each
individually named, dated, and signed by
the artist herself, the signature sometimes
obscuring the entire painting. This wasnt
the full extent of her oeuvre, either I
was rapidly compiling a collection of
sketches, mixed-media collages, painted
statuettes, brown Play-Doh sculptures
and even full-scale 3D paper and string
installations, each representing different
phases in the artists career. Priceless
works, all of them, for any would-be
collector although it was quickly
becoming obvious that the practicality of
maintaining my daughters personal art
museum was going to require rather more
cupboard space than we had available.
The problem of how to deal with a
childs artworks is perhaps one of the most
common parenting challenges there is,
alongside where to send them to school
and how to prevent them from getting a
disease. For those more sentimental among
us, the guilt that follows the heartless
disposal of a study in crayon executed
by your own flesh and blood can be so
overwhelming that it can see you getting
up in the middle of the night to fetch it
back out of the trash just to make you
feel like a better parent. For my own part,
I tried to convince my eldest that the
best storage facility for some of her more
esoteric creations was the bucket-shaped
art repository under my desk but she
was too clever to fall for that and burst
into tears. From then on, whenever she
22

presented me with one of her creations,

she would always open by begging me not
to use the art repusitty.
One has to be sensible, however,
and most parents would be very welladvised to draw the line somewhere. My
recommendation is to institute a category
system to help make the tough decisions.
Divide the works into three: those that are
to be kept in permanent archive ready to
be exhibited at the artists 21st birthday
celebrations; those that are for temporary
display on the fridge door or for hanging
from the light fixtures until new creations
move in to replace them; and those for
(discreet) filing on the dark side of the
moon.

Beyond the Fridge

The trouble only really begins when
you run out of fridge real estate for
category-2 items. One of the more
ingenious solutions to this
problem Ive seen especially
useful for parents of highoutput wunderkind is to
establish a whole art wall
somewhere in the house,
where theres enough
space for a floor-toceiling display. Special
bonus points go out to
parents who involve
their child in setting it
up: hanging colorful
display cords, beads,
and novelty hooks all

While youre getting

creative with your
displays, dont
forget that you
live in a city where
professional art
framing is about as
cheap as it gets.

prepped for the exhibition.

While youre getting creative with your
displays, dont forget that you live in a city
where professional art framing is about
as cheap as it gets. For those masterpieces
truly deserving of the name, theres little to
stop you from wandering along Tran Phu
and getting your childs best-of-the-best
series squared off into matching deluxe
hardwood frames, and it wont overly
affect your coffee budget. If you want to
be even more ambitious than that, talk
to the artists about getting a large canvas
print made of your favorite. At a cool four
by three meters, Juniors latest My Family
watercolor may well become a prominent
talking piece dominating the lounge.
Too many artworks to have framed?
Why not publish a book? Weve all seen

the lavish wedding albums that are a

must-have for local newlyweds (if you got
married in Vietnam, youre likely to have
one of these already). Drop in to any of the
wedding photo studios that are everywhere
in the city and get a quote for producing a
handsome volume of your childs artworks
with a plush leather cover. If youre
looking for something a bit more downto-earth, its also relatively inexpensive
to have a book designer lay out a smartlooking, perfect-bound volume of artworks
and photographs of your child. Our own
magazine offers a book publishing service
that can handle work like that drop us a
line if youd like the details.
Of course, the clever application of
modern tools can help you to throw
away the cake and eat it too. No iPad-

wielding infant is going to complain that

youve tossed out her stack of paintings if
youve taken the time to properly scan or
photograph them first and load them onto
an app like Artkive or Canvasly.
Your digital collection can be put
to a number of creative uses too, with
numerous local and online services offering
custom-made products emblazoned with
any photograph you care to upload. Try
turning your childs best artworks into
a carry bag, set of mugs, deck of cards,
t-shirt anything. Create cute name
cards for passing out to new friends at
school who want to exchange phone
numbers. Placemats, mousepads many
countries even allow you to order genuine
custom postage stamps printed from any
photo you send them via email. With the
commercial art world ready to create any
object you desire based on your childrens
innate creativity, never again will you be
stumped coming up with new presents
from Vietnam for the grandparents. Of
course, you could always just send them
the originals grandparents tend to have
mighty big fridges.

23

F E AT URE

What a Hoot!
A whimsical caf that pairs cute critters with cups of coffee
Text by NPD Khanh Images by Neil Featherstone

Tucked away in Phu Nhuan is PetMe

(179 Tran Huy Lieu), a small narrow caf
attracting curious customers eager for
a unique view with their coffee. From
brightly colored parrots and cockatoos
to owls and tiny parakeets, there is no
shortage of feathers ruffled here. The
opportunity to interact with the birds is
irresistible, especially since some can cost
up to USD2,500.
We knew we were doing something
no one had done before in Vietnam but
we certainly did not expect for people to
like it so much, says 27-year-old owner
Nguyen Ba Le. Until earlier this year,
I was still working full-time as a digital
24

designer. The idea of opening up a caf

came to me when I thought I had spent
enough time in an office job. I wanted
to try something new, but opening a
company is so restricting. I have always
adored parrots since I was a little kid so
I thought, Lets make a place for bird
lovers. Lets make a place for people who
have never thought about birds as pets to
find out what having one may be like.
Most of the birds roam the caf freely,
flying from shoulders to outstretched arms,
even sometimes perching themselves on
the cafs stockage - harassing the staff for
a bit of syrup. The birds are friendly with
people, having been trained by Le, and the

few chained parrots are new additions that

require further training.
Most people when they come in for the
first time expect meek birds in cages or on
chains, Le shares. But the parrots dont
really behave like birds. They are more like
cats or dogs, except they dont smell. They
like to be petted. They like to play with toys
and to make trouble. Theres a sweet spot
on their heads which if you scratch just
right, they absolutely love it. They dont fly
around nearly as much as, say, a sparrow
would. They like to walk and climb. A
couple of our parrots, if you put them down
on the ground and leave them alone, will
walk to the backroom on their own into

Most people when

they come in for the
first time expect
meek birds in cages
or on chains.

their cages and go to sleep like cats.

For Le, the challenges of keeping a
bird caf are unique - and costly. And in
a region where the term bird flu can
still incite mass panic, Les first priority
is health and safety for both his flock
and his customers. With no specialized
veterinarians or medicine for these
specific breeds in Vietnam, they are first
vaccinated in Bangkok before being
transported to Vietnam, and every three
months receive regular checkups. The
birds are also rotated in shifts, with only
five to seven in the caf at one time while
the rest receive some downtime and care
in the backroom. The entire staff have

been educated on how to care for and

handle their fellow colleagues.
A lot of people come to us nowadays
because they read about us in newspapers,
see us on TV, or see their friends photos
with our birds and we have our crowd of
loyal customers. Parrots live a surprisingly
long time. Small parrots can live up to
30 years while bigger cockatoos can live
as many as 80 years. So when you have
a parrot as a pet, you effectively have
a friend for life. To accommodate more
guests, we plan to open up a second floor
next month where the star feature is a
nursery where you can see baby parrots in
all their natural glory.
25

F E AT URE

Living Among the Dead

An entire neighborhood built on top of a graveyard
Text by npd khanh Images by Neil Featherstone
It goes by many names: "BT Blank
Development Zone" by city planners, "Special
Black Zone" by the Vietnamese National Post
Office, and "Cemetery Alley" by those who
live there. Officially, its known as alley 344
Chu Van An in Binh Thanh District.
I actually call it 'Labyrinth Alley' because
people get lost in it all the time. Mostly
outsiders and young children who arent
familiar with the layout yet, says Lo Ky
Thang, the alleys guard for the last 15 years.
Cemetery Alley is because, well, it used
26

to be a cemetery. The bones are still down

there. Thang is a second generation resident
and, aside from keeping the peace in the
neighborhood, often leads those who get lost
safely out of the alley.
From the main street, Cemetery Alley
is similar to countless other alleys that
crisscross Saigon, but hidden behind
its dusty, twisting pathways and sleepy
faade is a fascinating story of a maze
built on a wartime cemetery roughly 60
to 70 years ago. During the American

War and the subsequent change in regime,

the cemetery was abandoned and in the
chaos, poor rural people looking forward
to a new future moved in. They seized
the plot of land and started building with
little regard to infrastructure guidelines,
building codes or that they were literally
living on top of corpses.
The alley itself consists of a one main
axis from Chu Van An road that goes about
250 to 300 meters long before opening up
to another main road. From this single axis

As far as the
government is
concerned, these
houses and their
inhabitants dont exist
while the ones with
some paper to them
get a pseudo, one-sizefits-all legal status.
branches numerous smaller alleys that crook,
turn and interlock with each other with no
determinable pattern, forming a veritable
warren. Some of the smaller alleyways lead
nowhere while other seemingly dead ends
lead to secret pockets where houses are
unnumbered. Government officials called
these houses the blank houses and on paper,
neither the houses nor their occupants exist.
They have no proper documentation,
Thang explains. These are the oldest houses
in the entire alley, some 60, 70 years old. They
were built back when this was still an openair cemetery. The construction was illegal.
The people dont have documents with them.
To sort them out is to comb through 60
years of undocumented history and a couple
of hundred households all without proper
certificates of residency to their names. As far
as the government is concerned, these houses
and their inhabitants dont exist while the
ones with some paper to them get a pseudo,
one-size-fits-all legal status. Less headaches
that way.
So the locals decided to write their own
addresses. A handful are numbered based
on Chu Van An, others on the nearby No
Trang Long street. On various walls, helpful
maps and directions have been painted. The
National Post Office is unable to deliver mail
into the alley because none of their postmen
are capable of navigating the passageways.
They drop it off at my place instead and I do
the delivering, says Thang.
Another problem residents had to tackle
was the water supply. Cemetery Alley had
electricity but no running water. Back in
the 80s, the government attempted to build
a pipe system through the neighborhood,
however the project was called off after two
days when construction workers struck the
graves below. As a result, the water business
is shared by a handful of outside merchants
who deliver and sell truckloads every day.
Youd be surprised by the number of
places built on top of bones inside this
city, says Le Thanh, Thangs wife. I think
sometimes people forget that Saigon is a
city that has seen a lot of war and death. I
know of at least one park built on top of a
graveyard - Le Thi Rieng Park is even bigger
than us. As far as the folks in this alley are
concerned, let the living do the living and the
dead do the dying. Its what were good at.
27

t h rough the lens

How to Build a Boat

Images by NEIL FEATHERSTONE
Corsair Marine (www.corsairmarine.com) allowed Oi access into their
workshop while the team was in the process of building a Seawind
1250 model for a client. Using the same technology as those applied
in Formula 1 race cars, a process called vacuum infusion is used
to form fiberglass/carbon fiber hulls. This is an eco-friendly closed
mould process producing very strong, lightweight products while also
containing all chemical odors within the vacuumed area. While many
of the marine specific components come from Europe and the US, the
workmanship is done by highly-skilled locals.

28

29

30

31

L E G AL E AS E

legal Column

A Moms Fight
Between the Vietnamese and German
court, who has final say when it comes
to custody battles

Dear Hadrien and Marijn,

A member of the Paris Bar, Hadrien Wolff has been practicing

law in Vietnam for more than seven years, currently as a partner
of Audier & Partners based at its HCMC office. Having gained
extensive legal experience in the Netherlands and Cambodia,
Marijn Sprokkereef is an associate at the Hanoi office of the
same firm. Audier & Partners is an international law firm with
presence in Vietnam, Myanmar and Mongolia, providing advice
to foreign investors on a broad range of legal issues.

After having been married for almost 10 years, my husband

and I have decided to divorce. He is German and I am
Vietnamese. We have two kids, five and seven, who both have
dual nationality. We got married in Vietnam and we will apply
for the divorce in Vietnam as well. I am very concerned about
the custody of the children, especially since my soon-to-be exhusband has told me that he wants to go back to Germany to
live. He also mentioned that he intends to submit a request to
a German court in order to obtain full custody of our children.
Between the Vietnamese and the German courts, which one
has the final say on this matter and is there a scenario in
which I will lose custody of my children?
It is common knowledge that dividing
the rights and obligations of divorcing
parents regarding their children is the
most difficult and painful part of a
divorce, especially when the children are
as young as yours.
In order to answer your questions,
weve reviewed the Vietnamese Marriage
and Family Law of 2000, which is
also applicable to a divorce between
a Vietnamese citizen and a foreigner
permanently residing in Vietnam. Even
though this law will be replaced on
January 1, 2015, the rules applicable to
divorces with a foreign element will not
fundamentally change thereafter and our
comments below will remain applicable
under the new law.
The Marriage and Family Law gives
the Vietnamese civil court competence to
consider and decide on any divorce case.
With regard to the children, the power of
the Vietnamese judge when deciding on
a divorce must be exercised within the
framework as described below.
The Marriage and Family Law states
that after the divorce, the former husband
and wife are still required to look after,
32

care for, educate and rear their minor

children. In principle, both parents must
mutually agree on who will directly
rear the children and what will be their
respective rights and obligations towards
their children after the divorce.
If the parents fail to reach such an
agreement, the Vietnamese court shall
decide to assign one parent to directly
rear the children on the basis of the
childrens best interests in every aspect.
The judge will most notably consider the
relationship between the children and each
of the parents and what would be best
for the childrens education and rearing.
The parent who does not directly rear the
children will still have the right to visit
them. This right may only be restricted in
exceptional cases, where the parent directly
raising the children requests the court to do
so because the other parent would abuse
their visiting right.
Under the current law, the court must
take into consideration the childrens
aspirations if they are aged nine years or
older. From January 1, 2015 the age will be
lowered to seven. Furthermore, children
less than three years of age shall, in

principle, be assigned to their mother for

direct rearing.
If such would be in the interest of
the children and at the request of one
or both of the parents, the Vietnamese
court may consider and decide to
change the parent directly raising the
children at a later stage.
Failing to obtain the custody rights
here in Vietnam, your husband may try
to request the same before a German
court. We are no experts in German
family law, but from quick research
we understand a German court would
normally only accept to consider the
merits of the case if your children were
actually living in Germany.
Without your permission and without
being granted full custody rights over
your children by a competent Vietnamese
court, your husband cannot just take
your children to Germany. Doing so
may even qualify as international child
abduction, which is a serious crime
and something that you would both
obviously rather avoid.
Finally, you may note that even if a
German court issues a decision regarding
the custody of your children while they
are still living in Vietnam, such decision
will not have any force in Vietnam
and will therefore not bind you or
your children until it is recognized and
enforced by the competent Vietnamese
authorities. In practice, this process is
often time-consuming and foreign court
decisions are not easily recognized and
enforced in Vietnam.
Beyond all legal considerations, we
hope that you and your husband will
be able to cooperate with the objective
of putting the interests of your children
first, so as to avoid the pain of a family
fight in the court room.
Every month, Hadrien and Marijn
answer legal questions from Oi readers.
If you have any legal question you
want answered, send them to legal@
oivietnam.com

saigon mythbusters

High Cultured Trees

Tracking trees and a morally respectable neighborhood explained
Images by NGOC TRAN

THE
MYTH

Is it true that the numbers on

the trees in the city means
how old they are?

The white numbers painted on the trees are their ID

numbers. Under Vietnamese regulation 64/2010/ND-CP, like
humans, trees in Saigon have their own ID number and a profile
to match that number. Currently, there are approximately
900,000 catalogued trees in the city (as opposed to shrubbery
or other small plants). These trees are under the care of various
companies under the city authority, with each company holding
responsibility and jurisdiction over particular zones of the city.
They use the ID numbers to keep track of individual trees in any
particular district, ward or street. Each of the 900,000 white ID
numbers you see on tree trunks around town corresponds with
a single file in databases kept by plant maintenance companies.
These files hold information on the trees background (planting
date, age, species, plant zone, soil type, degree of sun exposure,
etc), medical history (diseases and nutritional history) and
maintenance schedule.

THE
MYTH

What do the alleyways that

have the sign khu pho van hoa
mean?

Khu pho van hoa (cultured neighborhood) is a title granted to

a community that has met seven economic, social, political and
cultural standards set out by the government. To achieve all the
requirements, the following must be achieved:
Residents of the neighborhood must earn above average income
Low to no unemployment rate in the area
Low to no social vices (drugs, prostitution, delinquents, excessive
alcohol consumption, excessive outdoor trash, drunk men peeing in
public (actually stated), and crime)
High education level
Aid programs available for the elderly or people with chronic
illnesses inside the community as well as outside
Organize cultural programs to raise community involvement, as
well as positive and active participation in various current political
issues
In short, the title khu pho van hoa means the area is affluent and
morally respectable.
For the authorities who govern the ward and district of the
neighborhood where its located, they are entitled to government
grants and an increase in official budget, making it a title highly
sought after. Anyone who wants to hold a top management position
in the Ministry of Culture must prove that their community has
reached this recognition. However, achieving one, much less all
seven, of the above criteria is not easy, which has prompted officials
to blur numbers in an attempt to obtain the dubious title of khu
pho van hoa. NPD Khanh
33

T H E

R O YA L

TREATMENT
In a country where the average income is USD200 a month, Gucci
beach sandals priced at USD365 can come as a shock. But the luxury
market is booming in Vietnam, its nouveaux riches are snapping up
Bentleys, yachts and Harley-Davidsons, offering proof of how much the
country has changed after decades of war.

The new generation wants to enjoy life and pamper themselves with
luxurious things. They indulge their urge to splurge on social-status
symbols and branded goods, and sophisticated travel are high on many
people's wishlists. And as the economy continues to grow, the shoppingspree looks set to continue.

34

35

T E A

F O R

TWO

Partake in Saigons afternoon delights

b y

j ame s

p ham

images by JAMES PHAM; Raspberry dessert image provided by park hyatt

T e x t

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Park Hyatt scones with clotted cream and jam, Raspberry mille feuille, Hazelnut dome with crunchy sable center

Today, few niceties feel as indulgent

as spending a leisurely afternoon without
a care in the world, sipping tea and eating
tiny sandwiches and beautiful cakes. For
that, we have the British to thank - and
more specifically the British royalty for
shaping the ritual of afternoon tea as we
know it.
In 1600, the British East India Company
was established to forge new trade
routes and establish ports and trading
relationships with India, the Far East and
Southeast Asia. While the original prize
was spices, it wasnt long before other
luxury items like tea, indigo and silk found
their way back to England. Favored by
English kings, the company was granted
36

wholesale powers to use military force, if

needed, to occupy places with which they
wished to trade, resulting in conquests
in Bengal and Bombay in India and the
seizing of Reunion and Mauritius islands
from other colonial powers.
In the late 17th century, King Charles
II and his Portuguese wife, Catherine
de Braganza, were responsible for
popularizing tea amongst high society,
replacing ale as the national drink. As tea
was highly taxed, it was enjoyed only by
the privileged.
However, as sources of imported tea
expanded and taxes fell, it was adopted by
the common class, often with a full dinner,
leading to the term high tea as it was

served on the dinner table. The practice of

having tea in the late afternoons, however,
was actually called low tea, typically
served on a coffee table in the drawing
room, the precursor to the quaint tea
service we know today.
Tea legend has it that in the early
1800s, the Duchess of Bedford Anna
Maria Stanhope, one of Queen Victoria's
ladies-in-waiting, began asking for a pot
of tea and a few baked goods in the late
afternoon to stave off what she called a
sinking feeling, before a late dinner was
served at 8 or 9pm. It wasnt long before
she invited friends to join her, kicking off
the fashionable social ritual now known as
afternoon tea.

image by neil featherstone

Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon

Top Tiered Service

The Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon
serves up afternoon tea in both its Lobby
Lounge, overlooking the bustle of Me Linh
Square and its expansive Atrium Lounge,
a soaring space on the 5th floor, bathed in
natural light streaming down more than
16 stories from the massive skylight above.
Gracious strands of lanterns dangle above
while soothing music fills the elegantly
modern space occupied by plush armchairs
and sofas in the center and tables and
chairs around the perimeter.
While there are no hard and fast rules
on exactly what to serve for afternoon tea,
Chef Minh Cong Dan follows the tried
and true formula of bite-sized sandwiches,
followed by scones with jam and cream
and finally an assortment of cakes.
Afternoon tea should have something for
everyone, says Chef Dan. His sandwich
tier includes a ham and cheese on white,
a vegetable Mediterranean on ciabatta,
a chicken sandwich and a salmon on
wholemeal. A lovely, flaky scone is served
with cream and strawberry jam, along
with a fresh fruit choux la crme and
a delicate macaroon. The sweets tier
features British fruit cake with dried
cherries, raisins and grated orange, a
chocolate biscuit, a chocolate-dipped

strawberry and a petit four. The tea

selection includes English Breakfast, Earl
Grey, jasmine and mint. Coffee lovers can
opt for brewed coffee instead.
For the sweet tooth, the Afternoon Rose
Tea for two is a delightfully pink affair,
featuring strawberry mousse, blueberry
macaroons and a host of beautifully
decorated sweets.
Westerners usually eat a light, healthy
lunch, while Vietnamese prefer a full
lunch, says Chef Dan, explaining why the
ritual has yet to become as popular among
Vietnamese. But it will catch on. When
friends go out for coffee, its all about the
conversation. And theres no better place to
have a relaxing time!
Afternoon tea (VND200,000++ /
VND180,000++ per person for the Rose Tea
service) is served in the Lobby Lounge and
the Atrium Lounge at the Renaissance
Riverside Hotel Saigon (8-15 Ton Duc
Thang, D1) daily, between 3pm-6pm.
Golden Moments
Park Hyatts Park Lounge revives the
civility of afternoon tea, from live piano
and violin music to ornate, silver teapots
and delicate bone china cups. The lounge
recalls the heady days of the Golden Age
of travel with dark wood furniture and

cognac leather tufted chairs set against the

backdrop of gold: from the gold-on-gold
carpeting to the pale yellow walls to the
golden afternoon sun streaming through
the plantation shutters.
Pastry Chef Bertrand Sommereux recreates all his favorites for the Saturday
Afternoon Tea, a buffet of savories and
sweet treats. The key is in having a
balance. A balance of colors and a balance
of tastes, he says of the tray of assorted
macaroons including passion fruit and
caramel. Notes of acidity found in the
lemon bars on brown butter shortbread
are designed to balance out the sweet
richness of the silver-leafed hazelnut
dome and the traditional apple tarte tartin.
Guests looking to quell that sinking
feeling can feast on savory bites that
include chicken Waldorf on milk panini
and quiche Lorraine. Scones with clotted
cream and strawberry jam are served at
the table, along with a selection of white,
black, green or oolong teas and a range of
herbal infusions.
Afternoon tea (VND570,000++ per
person on Saturdays, VND390,000 on
weekdays and Sundays) is served in the
Park Lounge of the Park Hyatt Saigon
Hotel (2 Lam Son Square) daily, between
2:30pm-5:30pm.
37

Shane Grover

Seafar i ng

Nation
Vietnams yachting industry is about to set sail
T e x t b y M i c hael A rnol d
I M A G E S b y ne i l feather s tone

When the construction of

Vietnams first international-standard
marina began on July 7th this year in
Nha Trang, it signaled the end of years
of speculation as to whether or not a
project of this kind could really get off
the ground in this country. Numerous
attempts have been made to cut through the
administrative barriers that have held back
many would-be investors a large marina
in Saigon has been planned on several
occasions but until now, the greatest
barrier to progress has been not so much
financial or bureaucratic, but rather one of
bewilderment at the sport of recreational
yachting itself. With no culture of going
out sailing for pure enjoyments sake to
speak of in Vietnam, the benefits that a
38

truly world-class marina could bring to

this country have been difficult for key
stakeholders to fathom.
The development is something that Shane
Grover, Projects and Contracts Manager for
locally-based shipbuilding firm Seawind,
has been anticipating for years. It couldnt
have been better timed within a fortnight
of this issue going to press, Seawind will
be delivering one of the firms larger
catamarans up to Nha Trang, where its new
owners will take a few days cruise around
the bay before heading out on a round-theworld trip. The fact that this is even allowed
to happen under Vietnams strict marine
regulations (it would have been impossible
just 12 months ago) is proof enough that a
huge paradigm shift is underway that could

well take the country into a new sailing era.

Until Nha Trangs Ana Marina opens
for business (the current estimate is April
2016), theres little reason for boaties to drop
in. If you own a boat in Hong Kong, says
Shane, and you want to sail to Thailand or
Malaysia, youve basically got to skip this
whole beautiful coastline and go all the way
around Vietnam because one, theres no
infrastructure, and two, youre basically
not allowed to come here, superyachts
included. Its a crazy situation generally
these people, theyve got money that theyre
willing to spend. Most of them just pass
through, because its just too difficult. Its
just thousands of dollars that are getting
passed up on every time.
Part of the problem is that Vietnamese

image provided by corsair

Pulse

Danang, Nha Trang and Phu Quoc

I dont know when, but eventually
theyre going to be huge for yachting
culture doesnt really have anything
resembling recreational boating. Its
virtually unheard of, says Shane. When
we first started trying to launch boats a
few years ago, we had a 52-foot catamaran.
They asked us what it was for. We said
sailing. They said no, what does it do? Is
it for fishing? No, its for fun. There was
nothing to compare it to. If you say boat in
Vietnam, you think of one of those timber
fishing boats.
Its changing, he observes. In Nha
Trang, you see people building little motor
boats, you see people going parasailing
with them. We do have Vietnamese people
coming in saying, I've got money to burn, I
want to buy either a big yacht or a Bentley.
Theyre not yachties, they just want
something nice and flashy. Asia has the
most potential for growth in the yachting
industry. But I feel that the industry here
is going to be much more based around
big, expensive yachts rather than your
traditional sports boats and so on. Itll be
more about the TV, the sound system, the
bar all that sort of stuff as opposed to
the actual sailing performance of the boat.
Thats OK, it still helps the growth for the
other areas. But I think at the moment
whats holding things back here is that its
so easy to buy a Bentley and its so hard to
buy a boat. What do you do with it? At the
moment there are no marinas, youre not
going to buy a big boat and have it parked at
anchor somewhere thats inaccessible. The
infrastructures got to be there.
Finger on the Pulse
A flourishing yachting community in
Vietnam could see big changes to Seawinds
own business. One of the most successful
cat building firms in Australia, the company

made the move to Ho Chi Minh City in

2010 with the acquisition of Corsair, an
American trimaran firm that had shifted
base to Vietnam back in 2006. The relocation
was in response to rising competition from
a flood of cheaper European vessels that
had entered the Australian market during
the GFC with rising labor costs and a high
Australian dollar (and without industry
protection from the Australian government),
local consumers were finding it far cheaper
to import a boat rather than to purchase one
homegrown.
The initial plan wasnt to pack up shop
and move to Vietnam, explains Shane.
We needed a means to be able to stay in
business, so we decided to look at producing
small components in Vietnam and build
in Australia, but when we bought into
Corsair, we very quickly became aware that
wasnt the way to do it. There are so many
advantages to building boats in Vietnam.
The cost was one of the top reasons
for coming out here, but perhaps more
importantly, the workers have a far better
attitude to their work. Were getting far
better quality out of Vietnam than we were
out of Australia.
The main advantage in employing
Vietnamese workers has proved to be
the pride locals take in their work. While
Seawinds Australian boat builders were
each able to put together the entire vessel
on their own, the firms Vietnamese
workers can each build their own small
part, but form a more cohesive team by
implementing the correct systems and
training, Seawind is getting better products
off the slip than it was back home. Part of
the reason for this is lower labor rates afford
the company the luxury of spending more
time polishing up and paying attention

to detail. Boats take a significantly higher

number of hours to build here, but many of
those hours go into fixtures resulting in a
higher quality vessel.
Because of low market expectations
for Vietnamese products, the number one
priority in shifting production over here was
that we have to build better boats than we
were there, Shane explains, because even if
we built the same boat, it would tend to be
perceived as being of lower quality. So we
had to make visual improvements. You walk
into a boat parked next to the same model
built in Australia, you needed to be able to
walk into the Vietnamese boat and think,
Wow, this must be the Australian one. We
give a lot of feedback to the workers in the
factory they love that, they love being told
what weve been doing is far, far better on
boat number 10 than what we were doing
on boat number 100 in Australia.
Were the only boat builder like us in
Vietnam, he adds. And were by far the
biggest. The next down is a little place
building canoes. Theres nobody like us in
Vietnam.
Now that Seawind has cracked the proper
procedures necessary to register cruising
vessels in Vietnam, the firm has found itself
well-situated to deal with the prospective
industry boom. So far, the company has had
only marginal sales within Vietnam (the
majority of those sold to foreigners who
are likely to moor the vessels in Thailand
until things improve here) but it has already
begun to put strategies into play that could
double their production in the near future.
Part of that plan involves the launch of a
new entry-level model designed to service
the rising interest in yachting locally at
the grassroots level a six meter trimaran
under the Corsair range theyre calling the
Pulse, due to hit the market in January next
year. The beauty of this model is that theres
no outboard motor and thus no need for
registration of the vessel under Vietnamese
law. This takes away all of the barriers to
owning a boat, says Shane. As soon as you
have an outboard, youve got to register.
Without one, you can buy it and sail straight
off the beach into Nha Trang Bay. This boat
would fall into that category.
Shane sees the Ana Marina as the first
step in consolidating a yachting culture that
will cause a national boom in the industry.
Its good to hear things are actually
happening, he enthuses. Danang will also
be a big marine precinct. We see Danang as
being like a Gold Coast area its got the
potential to be a big refit zone. They dont
want to fill Danang with lifestyle boating
manufacturers. They want something nice,
they want to be able to say weve got these
marinas so the Danang government is
definitely on board for a marina to be built
there too.
Danang, Nha Trang and Phu Quoc I
dont know when, but eventually theyre
going to be huge for yachting, he adds. Its
going to take those first few people to take
the risks, break through the wall and figure
out how to do it. Only then will people start
to follow.
Check out photos of Corsairs boat
building process in this months Through
the Lens on page 28
39

T H E

H A R D

RIDE
Vietnams latest status symbol
T e x t b y ro b ert o i
I M A G E S b y ngo c tran

In late November 2013, Lawson Dixon

was a worried man.
Five years after first approaching
Harley-Davidson US for the rights to
open a franchise in Vietnam, conquering a
grueling vetting process which saw 70 other
applicants eschewed in favor of the familyowned UAE-based company Lawson works
for and overseeing a several million dollar
investment in a state-of-the-art showroom
and service center he was worried hed
overestimated Vietnamese interest in the
famous motorcycle brand.
Before we opened, people knew we
were coming, but the Vietnamese kept
their hands in their pockets, he says. We
pre-sold a handful, but we did not get
anywhere near the level of deposits we
40

were anticipating and that was a concern.

It wasnt until we physically opened that
people could see the showroom and our
commitment to the market and could tell
that we were the real deal."
Then the floodgates opened, and weve
been struggling to catch up ever since.
Weve never had much more than two
weeks stock in hand since we opened.
Weve had people come in and ask: Whats
the most expensive bike you have? And
when weve pointed it out, they say Ill
take it.
By the time Harley-Davidson opened
its doors on November 30 last year, there
were an estimated 400 Harleys in the
country, all gray imports. Since November
last year, the company has sold and

delivered more than 200 new bikes to eager

Vietnamese consumers, at prices ranging
from VND370 million (~USD17,400) for
an entry-level Sportster model to VND1.9
billion (~USD90,000) for the top-of-theline 110 cubic inch (1800cc) CVO Limited,
which comes with a high-end touch screen
infotainment system and new twin-cooled
twin-cam v-twin engine. Sales are running
around double expectations and at around
20 motorcycles a month, showing no sign of
slowing down.
Harley-Davidsons rapid success
in Vietnam has been aided by several
regulatory changes in recent years. The
first, in tandem with the nations admission
into the WTO, was the removal of a blanket
ban on the importation of motorcycles
with engines larger than 175cc. That was
followed, the day after the showrooms
opening, by a government announcement
easing of licensing conditions for owners of
high-powered motorcycles.
Previously, if you wanted a license to
drive a large bike, you had to first buy it,
then join a government-run motorcycle club
and wait for the club to invite you to sit for
the license literally leaving people owning
bikes they werent legally allowed to ride.
The change took effect last March. The
timing was right, notes Lawson.
Taxation in Vietnam plays a
disproportionate role in the pricing of new
Harley-Davidsons. Taxation effectively
doubles the price of bikes with engines
larger than 800cc: import duties are 47
percent, luxury tax 20 percent, and then
VAT gets added on top. Perplexingly, bikes

The thing
about HarleyDavidson is its
authenticity. Its
inimitable. People
tattoo it onto
their bodies
with engines between 500 and 800cc attract
a whopping 75 percent import duty.
Price appears to be of little concern to
Vietnams Harley buyers, who defy any
demographic stereotype: The company has
sold the same model 1690cc Street Bob to a
17-year-old and a 73-year-old. The 73-yearold, he decided when he was a kid that one
day he was going to own a Harley-Davidson
and finally, that day came, says Lawson.
The majority of sales are of Sportster
models, which are at the lower end of the
price scale, but are more accessible and
easier to ride due to their size. Buyers
typically then customize and accessorize
from a comprehensive range of genuine
factory add-ons, for example: handlebars,
hand grips, chrome nuts and bolts, even
seats. Some buyers will have several seats
and change them out depending on whether
theyre riding alone or with a passenger.
Cruising Along
Harley-Davidson is, of course, much
more than a brand: its a lifestyle. And
Lawsons team supports local chapters of
the Harley Owners Group (HOG) in Ho
Chi Minh City, Hanoi and Phnom Penh.
Worldwide, HOG has grown to more than
one million members since its formation as
an original social network 30 years ago.
Harley-Davidson created HOG as a way for
customers to engage with the brand in an
environment where everyone is equal.
Through HOG, which has clubrooms at
the back of the Harley-Davidson complex in
District 7, Lawsons team organizes advanced
rider training, social events and regular rides
ranging from local day events to a road trip
all the way to Phuket, Thailand.
The thing about Harley-Davidson is its
authenticity. Its inimitable. People tattoo it
onto their bodies, says Lawson.
Buying a Harley-Davidson is not
something owners consider lightly. Its not
uncommon for people to go to the dealership
20 times before they buy a bike. It can start
with just a cap or a t-shirt, and then people
get slowly immersed into the brand.
Once you buy the bike, that experience
continues. Its not a functional tool to
get from A to B its much more than
that. Harleys are a bit noisy, agricultural
in terms of execution they have a
personality and a heartbeat which sets
them apart from every other brand. No one
else can capture that essence. Its biggest
attribute is the undeniable Harleyness
that no one else can replicate.

Lawson Dixon

Adding: Its purely a leisure brand. This

is a very, very selfish acquisition, very much
a personal reward. But invariably, when
someone buys a bike, we notice the whole
family gets sucked in the kids, the wives,
the girlfriends. Thats why weve leapt from
being the newcomer to market leader within
weeks of opening.
Harleys are about cruising, not speed.
Drive a Harley and you sit upright, not
hunched over racing machine-style. A
Harley is happy doing 30kph. Youre not
trying to race anyone; you get to look
around you.
A big earner for the Harley-Davidson
showroom in Ho Chi Minh City is the
merchandise both for locals and visitors.
Brand lovers can buy anything from Zippo
lighters, riding gear, casual fashion to mugs
and other souvenirs with or without Saigon
livery in an area as smartly-merchandised
as any modern shopping mall retail store.
Lawson says its not uncommon to see a

taxi pull up outside and seven Aussies climb

out and buy a few shirts each. Vietnam is
one of a number of countries served by the
Singapore Asian regional office established
when Harley-Davidson US recognized the
need to develop markets outside the US and
Europe where the recession was denting
sales and growth.
Entering the local market, even from a
Singapore base, was executed with extreme
caution given the fractious history between
Vietnam and the US. A lot of HarleyDavidsons customers in the US are veterans
and had direct experience with Vietnam and
the company did not want to disenfranchise
them by saying weve now got a dealership
in Vietnam, explains Lawson. So they
carried out a lot of market studies to make
sure the brand would be accepted here and to
make sure the launch was handled properly.
Ten months on, all that research has paid
off. Harley-Davidson is a new luxury status
symbol clearly here to stay.
41

T H E

one

PERCENT
What the Vietnamese nouveau riche are doing with their money
T e x t b y n p d k hanh
I M A G E b y ngo c tran

If I have to describe the Vietnamese

wealth management industry in one word,
that word would be 'primitive,' says
Afonso Vieira, the managing director of
Total Wealth Management, a Singaporean
company with offices in Singapore, Tokyo,
Shanghai and Ho Chi Minh City. You can
ask the financial service department of any
bank - HSBC, Citibank, Vietcombank - and
they will tell you the same thing. As of
right now, 2014, wealth management in
Vietnam is almost non-existent. We are at
the beginning of the beginning.
Wealth management is a term often
overheard in boardrooms at Fortune 500
firms and read about in the Financial
Times but to pinpoint its exact definition
is not easy. Wealth takes on many forms,
from non-physical financial products such
as intellectual properties, stocks and bonds
to physical assets such as real estate and
artworks. To manage all forms of wealth
requires a collective expertise from various
fields and industries.
For Afonso, the principle of wealth
management is saving and investing with
the final goal of preventing losses. There
is nothing exciting or grand about wealth
management. In fact, if theres anything
exciting about it, then most likely you are
working with the wrong individuals or
with the wrong company.
There is only a single requirement
to becoming Afonsos client having
USD100,000 cash exclusively for
investment. Total Wealth Management
specializes in financial wealth, dealing
largely with non-physical assets. According
to him, while most people want to do
something with their money, few know
how to at the level that a wealth manager
does. So we set an objective for that
money. We set a target return and a
maximum volatility. Then we get down
to exactly where to put the money, he
explains.
flaunting it
Real estate, despite not being a core area of
expertise, remains the number one favorite
investment of their Vietnamese clients.
42

For expat clients, mutual funds make up

the other favorite. Outside that, the skys
the limit. Their list of clientele includes
both local Vietnamese and foreign expats.
Japanese businesspeople take up 36 to 37
percent of the group while the Vietnamese
make up only one percent. The Vietnamese
clients tend to be bigger money wise (it
is called assets under management in
the industry) than Japanese clients. In
Vietnam, people are not looking for advice
on financial planning or investment. What
they are looking for are short-term bets.
Where should I put my money right now
to double it in the next six months to one
year? Or, if they are not looking for bets,
they are looking for recognition.

In Vietnam,
people are not
looking for advice
on financial planning
or investment. What
they are looking for
are short-term bets
And many are willing to pay exorbitant
sum for this recognition. Afonso says
premium credit cards sell extremely well
in developing countries and not nearly
as much in countries already with a
long history and experience in financial
investments. A classic example is the
HSBC premium account. To be eligible
for one, a client has to deposit USD50,000
into an account. This money only earns
0.1 percent interest per year, and a deposit
equivalent placement like a very low risk
sovereign bond fund pays five percent per
year. In return, premium account holders
enjoy the privileges of being called an
HSBC premium member, can conduct their

banking business in the VIP section of the

bank and are offered free coffee every time
they visit. Five percent interest per year
equals USD2,500. You essentially pay them
USD2,500 per year... for free coffee, says
Afonso.
Despite being what Afonso describes
as a completely nonsensical financial
product, the HSBC premium accounts do
extremely well in Vietnam. It is also far
from being the only one of its kind. The
Vietnamese financial market in particular,
and emerging Asian markets in general, are
filled with similar financial products where
the end goal is not to gain in financial
terms or even to protect against losses but
simply to buy their owners recognition.
In developed countries, I dont have to
tell this to the clients, they already know.
But here, even if I try to explain it to my
clients the answer will be the same. 'I
dont care. I want that card. I want to be
recognized. I want to be a VIP.'
The reasoning to this may not be logical,
but it is a normal reaction for a country as
young as Vietnam. Imagine just 10 years
ago you had no money at all and now you
are a millionaire, well you want to have
little things that recognize you as a little
different, because you have money, says
Afonso.
This proves to be the same underlying
theme for the Vietnamese financial market
as a whole. According to him, the relative
immaturity of the local financial market
is a phase it will quickly grow out of as
part of a natural growth process that
every single country has to go through.
Historically, Vietnam is a rich country
but as a unit, it has only been a country, a
government, since the 1940s. The financial
market itself didnt start until a little
more than a decade ago so its not very
reasonable to expect the people to be
wholly educated in financial investments
nor for the market itself to have the same
depth and scope of markets many times
older. The US in the 1920s was exactly
the same. Vietnam will grow in the same
direction, only much, much faster. From
here on, it can only go up.

43

44

B L A CKBI R D

FLY

Saigons newest exclusive place for exclusive thingS

T e x t b y J A M E S P H A M
I M A G E s b y ngo c tran

A large shop selling miscellaneous goods or

very strange or unusual? Its hard to describe
which definition best fits Black Birds Bazaar (41
Street 41, D2), set to open in late September/early
October. One side of the large space is anchored by
Lacanche range cookers, equal parts luxury kitchen
appliance and work of art, a home chefs dream stove
sporting five burners and three ovens, hand-forged
in Burgundy, France. The other side is an explosion
of colorful mosaic table tops with light reflecting off
the Moroccan tables and chairs covered in intricately
punched maillechort (a pewter-like metal alloy of
zinc, copper and nickel). There are a few antiques
scattered around the space for good measure, a circa
1900 Italian inlaid cabinet and a 1860 chest featuring
detailed brass boulle work.
But what stands out in a sea of standouts are two
one-of-a-kind creations that defy labels. To call them
a table and a lamp would seem an insult. Like most
artwork, the sleek freeform table evokes thought.
Some see a bit of the Starship Enterprise meets Ridley
Scotts Alien with a dash of yin and yang. Actually
my inspiration was things from the sea: a shark, fish.
Also planes, boats and aliens. Mostly aliens, laughs
Guillaume Yon, the artist behind Kalista.
The product of a 3am epiphany, Kalista was a
three-month project comprising 86 layers of steel,
welded together and then grounded to a fine finish.
Guillaume then painted it using imported Ferrari
California pigments, mixed according to the official
formula. I drew it in one go and then said, Lets
build it. I had no idea what I was getting myself
into. Technically and mechanically, this was a real
challenge. If she was a solid piece of steel, shed
weigh a ton, easy, says Guillaume of the 350kg
structure. Kalista means the beautiful one, a
figure of femininity. So the table is a she. She's a
functional sculpture. It's not fair to call her a table.
Because of the finish, you have to be careful with
her, he continues, nervously eyeing a couple who
have lightly touched Kalista. All nice things require
attention, the swashbuckling Guillaume says with a
mischievous smile.
Craving for Creativity
Born in France, Guillaumes history is as eclectic as
his showroom. I grew up all over the place. I studied
Biology but my interest in making things came from
watching my father do all kinds of jobs.

We lived in Spain for a time where my father made

windsurfing boards and boats. I've always made
things, too: boats, guitars, Ive worked on cars, I've
designed houses, Ive been a musician for a long
time Ive always been obsessed with the arts.
Back in the showroom, Guillaume runs his hand
over an enormous 1.6m wheel, the iron rim of a
200-year-old Cambodian cart which hes sandblasted
smooth and installed dozens of LED lights around
the inside perimeter. Theres something about
spiritual DNA from things that come before, he says
of repurposing artifacts. A friend of mine bought
a whole bunch of wheels from old carts. They were
made from rosewood, teak, ebony precious woods
literally left to rot. He didn't know what to do with
the rims, but when I saw it I immediately knew it was
going to be a lamp.
A little over a year ago, Guillaume found himself
in Indonesia searching for his next destination. A
chance recommendation led him to Saigon where he
immediately got this feeling that there was so much
to do. Its inspiring, he says. He feels his creativity
has blossomed because of living here, not in spite of
it. I feel what I'm doing is purely original. Because
theres not much going on here, its not polluted by
many outside influences. It pushes me to be more
creative and more original in my inventions. [In
Vietnam,] people are craving creativity. It's easy to
import things that have already been done. But the
original he opines while gesturing towards Kalista.
Theres a new generation of artists and musicians
who are creative in their own way, taking what they
have and putting it into motion. The new beginning is
interesting.
But is Vietnam ready for a USD23,000 range cooker
or a USD40,000 Ferrari paint-coated sculpture? The
Vietnamese have started traveling, to be in contact
with more and more influences and cultures, so of
course, the interest will rise. The more you discover,
the more youre curious, the more refined you get in
your own appreciation for things. When you know,
you appreciate more, he says of the showrooms
antiques and Lacanche line. I live in Saigon. I live
in Vietnam. Ideally, I'd like to have 100 percent
Vietnamese clients, he says.
Guillaume is hoping to make the space a true
bazaar, a collection of very different objects and
styles. This space is just a platform for things I
really love."
45

T H E

s tar

TREATMENT
Does Vietnam have what it takes to compete
in the luxury travel industry?
T e x t

Try it: show anyone overseas a photo

of one of Vietnams unspoiled, gorgeous
tropical beaches taken at one of those
wordlessly beautiful resorts on Phu Quoc,
Con Dao, Ke Ga or Ninh Van Bay and
ask them to guess which country theyre
looking at. Without clues, no one in a
million years will pick Vietnam. Thailand,
maybe, or the Maldives but not here.
That right there is the Achilles heel of
the Vietnamese tourism industry: nobody
but the backpackers knows how beautiful
this place can be, and backpackers dont
have the money to spend the night at
high-end resorts. Ask anyone whos never
been here what they imagine Vietnam to
be like, and theyll inevitably talk about
the dense jungles theyve seen in classic
war-era films rather than the graceful,
tree-lined boulevards of central Saigon
(what few remain, that is) or the countrys
extraordinary 3,260 km coastline. The sad
truth is, the world at large just doesnt
see Vietnam as a country capable of

46

b y

m i c hael

arnol d

delivering the cream on the cake.

For high-end travel service providers
particularly those that fall into the
burgeoning luxury industry operating
in Vietnam can thus be a major challenge.
There are clients out there with their
private jets who are certainly in the
market for the kind of service where they
can snap their fingers and have their
every whim attended to, money being no
object but convincing them to touch
down at Tan Son Nhat is another story.
Even so, the luxury sector remains a
tempting category to work in: statistics
released at a recent World Travel Market
expo in London showed that the worlds
highest net worth individuals (those with
liquid assets of over a million dollars) are
rising in number, with the majority of
new millionaires turning up in emerging
economies like Brazil, Russia and China.
Since the international travel economy
began to show signs of recovery in 2011,
sales for premium air travel and luxury

hotels have approached 10 percent growth

annually and while Italy, France and the
UK are still the most popular destinations
for luxury travelers, Cuba, Vietnam
and Cambodia are stepping up as new
destinations for the wealthy.
With figures like that, traditional logic
might suggest that establishing an elite
tourism operation in this country is a
fairly good bet right now. As it turns out,
this is not necessarily the case. While
many mid-level operators dream of the
lucrative markups that luxury-category
tourism offers, Vietnams near-invisible
reputation as a five-star-plus destination
has made this uphill work.
Five-Star Price,
One-Star Service
Successful attempts to establish a genuine
luxury operation that remains viable
beyond the initial stages of optimism and
enthusiasm is something of a rarity here.
Tourism marketing specialist John, who

has worked to promote the luxury travel

sector in Vietnam for several years now,
has seen a number of businesses make
similar mistakes in shooting for the top
two percent of international travelers.
There are some common pitfalls here,
he says. Three star operators chasing
the high-end tourism dollar often have
very little understanding of what theyre
getting into. They talk about redefining
luxury and providing extraordinary levels
of service, but in the end they cant offer
anything beyond merely staying in a
five-star hotel or traveling in a Mercedes,
which is the bare minimum of whats
expected by the market sector. They
dont appreciate the fact that Vietnams
infrastructure is largely inadequate to
meet what most high-end travelers would
expect from a luxury destination. They
focus on planning these grandiose tours,
but when they get clients, they find
theyre unable to implement the services
they thought they could achieve. Unlike
with budget tourists, you cant just make
it up as you go along. Everything has to
be perfect."
They usually end up compelled to go
after the flashpackers for survival, John
adds. That just ends up diluting their
brand. They use the term luxury as a tool
to maximize profit, and then they lose the
confidence of their intended market.
While there have been a fair number
of flops, one firm that has managed to
survive for a good decade in this category
is an agency simply entitled Luxury
Travel, which was founded by Pham Ha
right at the beginning of the five-star
tourism wave. Ha still enthuses about the
industry: The luxury travel segment is a
huge opportunity for Vietnam, he says.
The market for luxury travel is expanding
and Vietnam has many tourism resources
which are ideal for the luxury and ultraluxury markets, but these are yet to be
exploited. They will bring enormous
benefits to the country.

Ha is quick to dismiss the limited

conception of luxury that has proven
the downfall of many other startups.
Luxury is not and should not be as
simple as going to five-star hotels, he
says. This is a very narrow definition of
luxury. Luxury travel is helping visitors
to benefit from the best products and
the most comfortable services. But its
more a question of understanding the
clients, anticipating their expectations,
and offering them a real customized
experience, something unique especially
designed for them and for no one else.
The essence of luxury travel is to listen,
he adds. I mean that luxury travelers,
beyond being amazed by the destination
theyre visiting, want to experience the
real and authentic Vietnam, to live an
experience that no one else will. One
example of how we attempt this is the
Emperor Cruises were about to launch
on ultra-luxe boats in Nha Trang Bay this
January journeys on gorgeous traditional
junks including limousine and butler
services, cocktails at sunset, a vast choice
of activities, and so on. Luxury operators
have to be very selective and position their
expectations on a higher level compared to
the local standards, in order to match those
of tourists who are used to a very luxurious
standing in their daily life in Western
countries. But it is an exciting challenge
making things change within Vietnam.
A relatively new entrant into this
market sector is Gingko Voyage, the
manager of which, Jeremy Odoux, is
under no illusions about the challenges
the company will have to face in order to
reach any level of success. Compared to
popular luxury travel destinations in the
region such as Thailand, Bali, Singapore
or Hong Kong, its easy to see that these
destinations offer better infrastructures
and connectivity than Vietnam. Despite
that, significant efforts in this field have,
in the past years, seen the development of
key infrastructures here that will surely

contribute to the development of luxury

projects in Vietnam.
One of the chief complaints wealthy
tourists have about services in this country
is a distinct lack of finesse in the manner
in which they are carried out. The
essence of luxury travel is more about the
experience, the service, the exclusivity, the
individuality and the authenticity, notes
Jeremy. Todays luxury travel offers a wide
variety of activities, ranging from beach
holidays and cultural tourism to adventure
trips but whatever the activities are, the
high quality of service and uniqueness of
the experience remain the key expectations.
Beside the infrastructure and facilities,
well-trained and qualified human resources
are a requirement in order to deliver and
constantly maintain a high level of services
to luxury clients who are ready to pay more
but who, in return, also expect more. The
lack of well-trained and qualified human
resources in Vietnam is a real challenge, and
not only in the tourism sector.
With ongoing developments and
improvements in service levels, Vietnam
may well be on track to offer what
the market defines as genuine luxurystandard tours in greater and more
reliable volumes than it does now in
the very near future. Agencies with
a clear vision of what luxury clients
expect and who dedicate themselves to
absolute standards of service do have a
good chance of turning wealthy heads
and succeeding in bringing the luxury
category dollar to this country. In the
meantime, however, the absence of
dedicated promotions by the Vietnamese
tourism administration targeting wealthy
travelers means operators such as
Luxury Travel and Gingko must work
to demonstrate the viability of Vietnam
as a luxury destination by themselves
in the face of a market that up to now
simply doesnt believe. Whether those
attitudes change or not largely rest on
their efforts.

47

Wine & Dine

IMAGE BY NGOC TRAN

La Closerie dElisa
48

49

For illustration purposes only

F eature

Shine a Light
A candid interview with the owners of Blackout and Noir. Dining in the Dark about
sensory deprivation eating, learning about each other, and how they are not the same
Interviewed by NPD Khanh Images by Ngoc Tran
Ever taken a bite of something with
your eyes closed - a tomato, a slice of peach
- then had trouble identifying the flavor?
That surprise you felt at finding out you'd
actually bitten into a cucumber, not a melon,
is behind the increasingly popular "dark
dining" phenomenon.
Upsides to eating in the dark are obvious.
There's no need to worry about whether
you're repulsing your date with that shrimp
tail stuck in between your front teeth. Using
the wrong spoon isn't an issue, either. But
the real draw is the heightened sense of
taste. Dark dining is based on the theory that
flavors are intensified when people can't see
what they're eating.
With roots in Europe and North
America ("Dark dining" began in
Switzerland with Blinde Kuh, said to be
50

the first eatery to introduce sight-free

dining when it opened in Zurich in 1999),
the playful concept is fast spreading
across Asia with restaurants in Bangkok,
Kuala Lumpur, Phnom Penh and now Ho
Chi Minh City. In the same month, not
one but two dining in the dark restaurants
will open here on the same street.
At the time of our interview Blackout
(74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1) owned by
Alexander Egert had recently opened while
Noir. Dining in the Dark (178 Hai Ba
Trung, D1) co-owned by partners Germ
Doornbos and Vu Anh Tu was slated for its
grand opening at the end of September.
Both restaurants operate on the same
principal concept - pitch black restaurants,
visually impaired waiting staff and set
menus. However, that is where the

similarities end.

Have you met Alexander/Germ?

Alexander: No we have not [met], but I have

heard of Germ while looking for staff.

Germ: I havent even heard of Alexander

and his restaurant until very recently. We

had no idea that someone else in Saigon was
working on the same concept at all.

Why did you decide on a dine-in-the-dark

concept?
Alexander: It was by chance for me. Earlier
this year, I had the opportunity to visit a
dine-in-the-dark restaurant in Phnom Penh. I
had heard a lot of positive reviews and it was

a great experience. I grew to like the concept

but I had some reservation about the food.
Coincidentally my restaurant Camargue on
Hai Ba Trung was undergoing some changes
at the time and since I am an entrepreneur, I
thought this was something new I wanted to
try out and do better.
Germ & Tu: We already had plans to open up
our own restaurants. We are both veteran
professionals in the food and beverage field
so we know how competitive the restaurant
business in Saigon is. To succeed in this
market, a restaurant has to be truly unique.
We also wanted to work in the social
responsibility aspect of the business. Dark
dining restaurant concept is a perfect fit. It
has never been done in Vietnam before and
by employing visually impaired people we
bring awareness to the disability community
in Saigon and bring them more opportunities.
We also give a percentage of our revenue to
the visually impaired community.

How will your interpretation be

different?
Alexander: By doing it very well. The

concept is already a unique experience,

combined with good food, it is already a
winner. The key is execution. Blackout is
small. It can take 10-12 diners at a time and
Im perfectly happy with that because that
means I can pay more attention to each of
the customers.

Is the restaurant for adults only?

Germ & Tu: We actually took the concept

Alexander: No, children can come as well

one step further. Noir. Dining in the Dark

is only the first part of a duo. The second
part, Dining in the Light, is our own creation
that has never been done anywhere else. Of
course we cannot reveal too much about it
because it is not yet open. I can tell you it
involves lighting visual effects though and
will open in two months. We also want to
go deeper with the in the dark concept. You
see, the dark reveals many things that we
normally dont pay attention to, 70 percent
of our sensory input is sight. Take away that
70 percent and suddenly you start noticing
things about the other 30 percent that you
have never noticed before. In the future, we
will develop other activities in the dark, such
as team building, events, interviews or blind
dating, literally. We have a lot of space in
Noir, enough to seat 50 people at a time. We
can do a lot with all that space.

Did the concept have to be approved

by the government since it is
unconventional for a country like
Vietnam?
Alexander: Not as far as I know. I have
existing paperwork for my restaurant
Camargue and so far, the government
workers have been supportive.
Tu: Not at all. We actually received a lot of
support from the government. We also got a
tax cut which we never even thought of until
our HR staff informed us of that.

Germ Doornbos and Vu Anh Tu

as long as their parents are okay with it. Ive

already had a nine-year-old customer.

Germ & Tu: We only admit children older

than 10. Younger children may be too scared

of the dark to enjoy themselves. Of course,
theres also a safety issue as some children
like to run around.

Can you tell us about the hiring process?

Alexander: I contacted the blind people

association and various nunneries that

take in visually impaired people. That was
when I found out about Germ. He was
way ahead of me in picking up staff. I got
a list of people who were interested in
working for me and from that list I made
the first phone interview.

Germ & Tu: The hiring process is exactly

like that for normal non-visually impaired

waiting staff, with some changes to
accommodate the unique nature of the job.
Equality is a part of our concept and we
would like to let our staff know that they
have equal opportunities with everyone else.
Visually impaired people don't have a lot of
experience in the food and beverage industry
of course, so we account for that and have
very intensive training for our staff.

The language barrier is often a problem

here, so will the lack of visual aid make
it even more difficult for customers

and waiters to understand each other?

And what language will service be
conducted in?
Alexander: I have not had that problem.
The menu and wine choice is chosen before
the guests enter the dark dining area. My
staff also speak surprisingly good English,
definitely enough for simple communication.
In both English and Vietnamese.
Tu: We have three languages available:
English and Vietnamese, of course, and also
Mandarin Chinese from one of our visually
impaired staff.

Will servers guide your hand to the plate

and offers helpful tips like: This course
is eaten with a spoon?
Alexander: No. In general we want to
let people experience and explore for
themselves. The customers are led to their
tables and if they need to go outside for the
restroom then they are led outside. Each table
has its own visually impaired waiting staff
and the room has one supervisor with night
vision goggles on to prevent anything from
going wrong.
Germ & Tu: The customers do receive help,
but not so extensively. Our staff lead them to
their tables and give them some instructions,
such as Im pouring the wine from your left
and there is hot soup on your right. Other
than that, we like to leave people to their
own devices.
51

the experience. Then again, I have not had to

deal with a Vietnamese person with a fear of
ghosts and darkness.
Germ & Tu: No we dont. Before we decided
on this concept we tried out many dine in
the dark restaurants in other countries and
from their experience we can see this is not
a significant issue. People enjoy the focus
on food, sensations and the uninterrupted
conversations. The darkness is not so scary
when you are there with your friends or
family. Even in the event the experience is no
longer enjoyable for a customer, we do have
our normal lit restaurant right next door.

Many see this concept as a novelty

concept people will try only once - how
do you plan to get repeat customers?
Alexander: I have not had to deal with this

problem at all. So far, when people like the

experience they tend to come back with their
friends and families and these friends and
families in turn come back with their friends
and families. In a way, they are already repeat
customers. I have also been approached by
tourist companies. So no, I dont worry about
this at all.

Alexander Egert

People like the experience and the fact they can

concentrate on the food and the conversations
without distractions such as their smartphones
or taking snaps for Facebook for once.
How will hot liquid factor into the menu?
Are there any ingredients that are
unsuitable for dining in the dark?
Alexander: Not much at all. The key is
the layout of the dining set. We serve each
individual menu on a tray with high rims.
The food is put in little bowls and the wine
in thick stone cups, not stem glasses. Also
people eat very carefully in the dark so even
if there is a spill, the worst you can end up
with is a tray with spilled food inside. I have
not had this problem so far.
Not ingredients particularly but rather
certain food. For example, sauces. Camargue
is a French restaurant. My chef is versed in
French and Mediterranean cuisine. French
cuisine is famous for its sauces, but sauces are
not suitable for dining in the dark because it's
so easy to make a mess.
Tu: They are factored in with care of course.

Unlike many other dark dining restaurants,

we dont use special dining sets. Our bowls
and cutlery are exactly like that of a normal
restaurant, except sturdier. Part of our
concept is the focus on senses other than
sight. We want our customers to not only
focus on the food but also from normal
dining items that they normally dont think
52

much about. We want them to hold up a

wine stem glass and be aware of its texture
and its weight in their hands in ways they
have never done before. I think people
underestimate themselves too, because so
far we have seen the dark diners eat very
carefully. They dont make rash movements
that may cause spills. Of course we tend to
stay away from making dishes too hot or too
cold just in case.
We tend to stay away from extreme
spices and flavors. Our menus are secret.
The customers only know that it's Oriental
cuisine or international cuisine or vegetarian
cuisine. More than that they do not know.
This heightens the experience but we don't
want to create anything too surprising.

Darkness also enhances our state of

fear. Do you think this will detract from
the experience?
Alexander: As far as I can see, no. Our
feedback thus far has all been positive.
People like the experience and the fact
they can concentrate on the food and the
conversations without distractions such
as their smartphones or taking snaps for
Facebook for once. There is always a giggling
moment at first of course but thats part of

Germ & Tu: By serving very good food. The

concept may be seen as a novelty and in a
way, it is. But the core of dining is good food.
We believe if we do that correctly, repeat
customers wont be a problem. Besides,
there are 10 million people in Saigon many
of whom are young and eager for new
experiences. I think a 50-seat restaurant does
have breathing room with a market of 10
million people.

Do you think there is room for two dinein-the-dark restaurants in the city?
Alexander: Yes, I do. How many French
restaurants do you see in the city? How
many Italian restaurants? They all live, dont
they? If a city is ready for a new concept,
then it is ready regardless of how many
restaurants run on the same concept. If it is
not ready, then even one restaurant wont
make it. As a matter of fact, I think this is a
good thing. Competition improves the quality
of the product and service and if you are
doing business in Asia and you are doing a
good job, eventually you are going to have to
think of copycat competitors. I look forward
to Germs restaurant opening day. When
it happens, I will go there and I will try out
their restaurant and I will congratulate him.
Maybe he will do a better job than I do, in
which case, maybe we will start a trend in
Vietnam. In business, its always good to be
known as the one who starts the trend.
Germ & Tu: I think there are. When we
started we thought we were the first one
to pioneer this concept then we found out
about Alexanders Blackout. But in a way,
our concept is different. We have our own
supporters and we are both veteran food and
beverage professionals. We think we will do
just fine.

Additional reporting by Christine Van

A D V E RT ORI AL

The Panda Express

Oi interviews Tauriq Brown, Co-Founder and Managing Director of foodpanda
Vietnam, on the success of the companys online food delivery service
we have become the leader in the global
marketplace. Since then, we have regularly
introduced updates to the app to improve the
users experience.
Mobile penetration in Vietnam is at 20
percent as of January 2014 and 60 percent of
smartphone owners have made purchases
on their phones. This has further given
motivation for us to focus on mobile strategy,
particularly in the Vietnamese market.

What strategies have you used with

partner restaurants to increase
delivery sales?

Tell us about foodpanda.

Tauriq: foodpanda was established in May
2012 with Singapore as its first market.
foodpanda (www.foodpanda.vn) and two
affiliated brands - hellofood and Delivery
Club - are now active in over 40 countries
including Thailand, Pakistan, Taiwan, Hong
Kong, the Philippines, Russia, Poland,
Hungary, Romania, Brazil, Mexico, Saudi
Arabia, Lebanon, Qatar, Nigeria, Morocco and
Ghana.

What potential do you see in the

Vietnamese market?
Tauriq: Vietnam has over 36 million internet
users thus an internet penetration of 39
percent as of January 2014 and coupled with
a rising purchasing power, the Vietnamese
food delivery market is one of the fastest
growing in the region, attracting interest
from international investors.
With the great potential for growth, the
Vietnamese market is ready for the online
food delivery business model and we strongly
believe that Vietnam is one of the ideal
markets for our company.

How has partnering with globallyrecognized franchises such as Jollibee,

Pizza Hut, KFC and Subway increased
your brand presence in Vietnam?
Tauriq: We are now outright the leading
online food court in the Vietnamese
market by offering the easiest, fastest and
most convenient ways to order food. The
partnership with these mega food and
beverage chains has helped us improve our
world-class customer experience, as well as
complementing our culinary variety. Through

the partnership, we have exercised a range

of co-branding and cross marketing activities
which benefits all parties in strengthening
our market positions, both locally and
globally.

What cities in Vietnam are you currently

operating in?
Tauriq: foodpanda is now operational in
five large cities: Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi,
Danang, Nha Trang and Can Tho. We
currently have over 1,000 partner restaurants
in Vietnam including popular international
chains and local favorites.

What has made it possible for foodpanda

to achieve the largest market share in
this industry?
Tauriq: Our service is available on various
platforms such as our website, mobile apps,
Livechat and a toll-free telephone hotline to
enable our users to browse menus and order
their favorite food anytime, anywhere in the
most high-tech and trendy way. Moreover,
the prices of the online menus are identical
to those on the restaurants menus. For our
partner restaurants, we provide a unique,
unlimited revenue channel that they may
never have access to.

How has the introduction of the

foodpanda app changed your business
strategy?
Tauriq: Smartphone and mobile apps have
changed how e-commerce and online
marketplaces work. foodpanda, from the
early stages, has set our eyes on becoming
a mobile company. With the introduction
of our various mobile apps in early 2013,

Tauriq: We have the best marketing and

sales resources working at foodpanda as
well as knowledge and collaborations with
local and global ecommerce networks (40+
foodpanda countries, Lazada, Zalora, etc.). By
growing our marketing teams significantly
and gaining a thorough understanding of the
market over the last two years, we can now
offer customized and targeted marketing
strategies to each restaurant.
Were a unique marketing channel,
enabling our restaurant partners visibility in
the online and mobile space.

How has foodpanda changed the way

people eat in Vietnam?
Vietnamese people have come to embrace
the convenience and ease that foodpanda
offers. foodpanda, in a nutshell, is an online
food court offering the largest variety of food
choices. We have changed the perception of
1) ordering food non-traditionally and 2) that
ordering food online is unhealthy. We allow
people to enjoy foodpanda every day and still
have a healthy lifestyle. This is where they
do not need to compromise their lifestyle
choices. foodpanda saves them time and
offers them great convenience.

Tell us about the companys plan for the

future.
Tauriq: foodpanda has recently received
another investment of USD60 million, which
shows the confidence our investors have
in foodpandas future. The funds will be
used to further increase our growth rate,
expand our partner restaurant network,
improve customer service and consolidate
our market-leading positions. In Vietnam, we
will further expand to other cities, improve
the food selection on foodpanda with more
of our users favorite international and local
restaurants, ensure timely delivery and to
provide the best experience for our users.
53

r estau rant review

A Food Trifecta
Cantonese dim sum, barbecued meats and wok fried specialties all under one roof
Text by Michael Arnold Images provided by San Fu Lou

Finding an original take on a

major world culinary tradition isnt easy,
sometimes with more misses than hits.
Newcomer San Fu Lou (Ground Floor AB
Tower, 76A Le Lai, D1) is one that actually
succeeds in delivering an innovative dining
experience with its sparkling modern
nouveau Chinois dcor and show kitchen
concept standing behind a solid menu of
Cantonese favorites.
San Fu Lous interior design is
exceptionally easy on the eye as with
the gorgeous Chill Bar upstairs, its
the brainchild of famous Dubai-based
architectural firm dwp, laid out with
their signature open spaces and snaking
partitions. Their design here is a funky,
modern take on the classic Chinese
teahouses you might have seen in old Kung
Fu movies a mezzanine terrace winds
around a central opera stage, which here
takes the form of the open kitchen. Despite
being right in the center of the dining
area, the show kitchen isnt a distraction

to diners who are invited to look on

while the chefs do their magic and its
intended to serve as a demonstration of
the restaurants strict food preparation
standards.
The finishing touches are very fine the
dcor is trendy, the tables inset with reimagined Chinese porcelain tiles bearing
rich, earthen-colored ceramic tableware.
The ambient music isnt classical Chinese
ensemble pieces or vapid Mandopop, either
its light techno jazz. All of this hits the
mark as being perfectly cool.
If you take a stroll around the glass
paneling, youll notice the show kitchen
is laid out in three distinct divisions. This
is an important feature, as its part of the
restaurants trinity concept which the
three owners have spelled out in verse,
brushed reverently onto its walls in large
Chinese characters like ancient poetry.
San Fu Lou translates as The House
of Three Blessings, and this is chiefly
manifested in the three main categories on

the menu dim sum, BBQ and wok each

of which has its own designated kitchen
area. Its done beautifully the BBQ area
has an open hearth with tender, dripping
meats roasted on a spit over applewood;
the dim sum area has its collection of large
bamboo steamers; the stir-fry area with its
glowing woks.
With such a chic veneer, youd imagine
that a night at San Fu Lou is going to make
a big dent in your eat-out budget but
youd be mistaken there. Prices are midrange and set at rates families can afford
(although this is probably going to be one
of the restaurants main obstacles, in that
it looks more expensive than it really is).
While this is something for the restaurant
to worry about, it works in favor of the
customer diners can order a veritable
smorgasbord of dishes from across the
menu and eat better for less. Its certainly
worth ordering more items in terms of the
quality of the cuisine, too with all its
flashiness, San Fu Lou doesnt attempt to
dazzle the diner with odd food experiments
or zany fusion recipes; the food is just
balanced, healthy and well-presented.

Just for Fun

It must be observed that, much to the
relief of the casual dining set, San Fu Lou
isnt pretending to be wildly authentic
either. This is a blessing, as Cantonese
cuisine the real stuff that is can tend
towards being mildly Fear Factor by nature:
trust me, chicken feet are the least of your
worries. The restaurant focuses instead
on the more agreeable task of serving
tasty dishes from the Canton region. The
dishes are classics, and not overpowering.
The meats are lean and juicy. Most of the
meat is relatively bone-free, too, which is a

With such a chic

veneer, youd imagine
that a night at San Fu
Lou is going to make a
big dent in your eatout budget but youd
be mistaken there.
Xiao long bao

54

godsend if youre used to picking Chinese

fish dishes to pieces. Spices are fresh and
well-balanced theres actually nothing
to offend the nostrils or the palate here,
making this one of the more approachable
venues in its category.
We went ahead with a few recommended
favorites from across the menus
three-style range. We started with a
combination chicken, duck and pork platter
(VND185,000) very moist and tasty set
off by sauted French beans (with spicy
shrimp paste and a pleasant, Cantonese
one rather than the odoriferous Vietnamese
delicacy) at VND75,000. These were very
crisp, fully absorbing the flavor of the meat
and sporting a cheeky burn. Those dishes
were nicely offset by a Hong Kong-style
steamed grouper (VND155,000) and duck

black truffle dumplings (VND65,000).

While the fish was unusually well-done,
it was devoid of any unpleasant odor and
went down well, while the dumplings
tasted wholesome and light.
The dish I was particularly curious about
was the xiao long bao (you may know
them as Shanghai soup dumplings) which
at VND90,000 are made (just for fun, I
was assured) of dough blended with food
coloring that rather closely resembles
Play-Doh. Each cooked xiao long bao is a
different color, although theyre uniform
in taste filled with a rich mince and
broth. While this can make them difficult
to eat (bite from the wrong angle and the
scalding soup will dribble out over your
chin) by making a cautious approach,
youll be rewarded by its taste and warmth

FROM LEFT: Sauteed French beans with

spice shrimp paste platter; Hong Kong-style
steamed grouper; San Fu Lou fried rice;
Combination chicken, duck and pork platter

on the tongue.
We finished off the meal with fried
rice (with shrimp, scallops and squid chili
paste) at VND135,000, which was worth its
higher-than-average price for its intense
flavors unusual in such a dish and a plate
of salted egg buns (VND40,000) for dessert.
These are not as salty as you might expect
the filling is a delicious milky custard
that will please absolutely anyone.
The venue is located behind the New
World Hotel and with its 3am closing
time, its well-positioned to tempt hungry
clubgoers well past midnight.
55

Boudin Noir Aux Pommes

56

r estaurant review
FROM TOP: Escargots de Bourgogne, Elisa

Regal Fare
Conjuring up French flavors in a tropical garden setting
Text BY Tayne Ephraim Images by ngoc tran
For Elisa, proprietress of La
Closerie dElisa (52 Ngo Quan Huy,
D2), Vietnam runs deep in her blood,
both figuratively and historically. Her
grandfather was Bao Dai, the last emperor
of Vietnam, and for both her and her
family, Vietnam is a place of sad memories,
reconciliations, and new beginnings.
Before arriving in Vietnam, she
worked as an interior designer at a
Parisian architecture studio, and it shows.
Every aspect of the restaurant has been
incorporated into the design, including
coconut trees, one of which almost
intrudes on the look-in kitchen with its

bustling black-shirted staff rushing to

prepare orders.
Before I made the restaurant, all this
was just long grass and coconut trees, she
explained. Everything here I designed
myself, she says of the kitchen, the
bamboo thatching on the high-vaulted
bar, the arc lights hanging in the coconut
trees, down to each item on the menu, each
hand-chosen and crafted by Elisa.
La Closerie dElisa takes its name from a
famous Parisian restaurant that was once
the haunt of such personages as Salvador
Dali and Ernest Hemingway, La Closerie
dLilas, and like that bastion of French

cuisine, Elisa hopes to replicate the same

reputation as its namesake.
A closerie is French for courtyard, and
as I am shown to my table in the covered
open-air dining area, my first impression
of the place is something between the
long backseat of a Cadillac and a covered
Mediterranean courtyard. White wood,
wall-spanning leather seats and coconut
trees in the fan-blown Saigon breeze set
the ambiance.
Is this the menu? I asked the waiter,
indicating a bound scroll on the table. It
could just as easily be part of the table
adornment. From the floral arrangements
to the sharp angles of the black napkins
in their glasses, everything has its place,
meticulously ordered and arranged.
The menu options range from White
asparagus with mousseline sauce
(VND180,000) to Scallops on a bed of leeks
(VND420,000). Its a small menu, but each
choice has been burnished with Elisas
special touch. I dont like clutter. I like to
keep things simple. The menu is small, but
every dish is special. She likes to remain
in complete control of her restaurant,
even going personally to the markets
herself every morning to buy the days
ingredients.
For starters I ordered the Burgundy snails,
escargots de Bourgogne (VND190,000). Like
most Saigonese I enjoy the odd plate of oc,
but Elisas secret snail recipe is another
level of mollusk delight entirely. Stuffed
with a garlic and parsley paste, the escargots
were bright and buttery to the palate. They
are accompanied by a two-pronged snail
fork and the aid of some gripping forceps
employed especially for the purpose. Its a
little tricky at first but you quickly get the
hang of it and soon find yourself hankering
for a second serving.
The main course was a beautifully
displayed boudin noir aux pommes
(VND310,000), presented as a wheel of
stuffed sausage slices atop a lotus-like
arrangement of apple slices with a bowl of
mash on the side. The blood-black boudin
sausages had a lush, pudding-like texture
to them, and had a rich flavor that is
hard to corner but nonetheless extremely
satisfying. The apple slices offer a sweet
edge and the mash tops it off like the cream
on a chocolate sundae.
For dessert I chose a mousse au chocolat
(VND120,000), Elisas own recipe. The dish
comes served in a chilled glass like a candle
of melted chocolate wax. The chocolate
was decadent and creamy, not too sweet
and not too bitter. It left me feeling like a
schoolboy guffawing in delight over moms
cooking.
Things have come a long way on the
dining front since Elisa first came out here
more than a decade ago. Before it was all
just beer and cognac, she tells me. But now
we find ourselves spoiled for choice, awash
with options, with La Closerie dElisa
among them.
57

r estaurant review

Dont Call it Fusion

An unconventional twist to stolid Korean cuisine
TEXT by Michael Arnold Image provided by Wons Cuisine
Since its understated reopening on
Mac Thi Buoi some 18 months ago, Wons
Cuisine (49 Mac Thi Buoi, D1) has enjoyed
a somewhat gentle renaissance. Its only
now that its beginning to gather notoriety
as one of the citys most important Korean
venues and not for reasons of authenticity,
but rather for straying from the norms. Even
if youre not particularly partial to Korean
food, this is the one that will win you over
and it all comes down to the restaurants
fascinating proprietress Alexis Won, who
has infused so much of her own quirky
tastes into the menu that shes completely
ignored the conventions of the cuisine.
The result is neither an exercise in fusion
nor localization its just a slice of Alexis
own personal Korea, and its perfectly
dreamy. Every item on Wons menu is the
way it is for essentially personal reasons:
Alexis being a finicky eater with eccentric
tastes, this means that each of the dishes
are fastidiously healthy, pathologically
flavorsome, and one-of-a-kind. Im always
eating things my own way, she confesses.
If I go to McDonalds, I dip the french fries
in the sundae. I eat kimchi soup with cheese.
My whole menu is based on my own style.
Blending her own special recipes with
those loved by her family, Wons cuisine is
straight from the heart, and you can taste
it even the kimchi we snack on while
choosing our main dishes is an eyebrowraiser. Kimchi is supposed to be tart and
astringent not Wons: We make it every
58

two days, Alexis explains. Mature kimchi

is sour. We make our noodles fresh, and
only fresh kimchi goes with fresh noodles.
Its not really economical to make noodles
like that most Korean restaurants here
import theirs or use instant noodles. But I
cant stand the taste of instant and I worry
that the imported stuff might have Chinese
chemicals in it. So we just make them
anyway. Our margins are lower, but at least
the taste is good.

A Twist on the Familiar

Every item on the menu seems to have its
own similar story. We start with a selection
of dumplings: Korean dumplings are
normally too large, she says. So I asked
an Italian chef to suggest how to make
smaller ones. I call them baby dumplings
(VND150,000) youll only find them in
my restaurant. The deep-fried dumplings
(VND150,000) are based on a similar
experiment, twice-fried to keep them crispy
and thoroughly drained of oil to keep
them light. Youll be hard-pressed finding
other deep-fried dishes anywhere else that
actually taste like theyre good for you.
The vegetarian dumplings (VND120,000)
are stuffed with sweet potato noodles, of
all things that just came out of Alexis
imagination, and theyre unreal.
Familiar Korean dishes each have
their own twist. The soft bean curd soup
(VND140,000) is made richer and sweeter by
slow-boiling the seafood and vegetable broth

for longer than is usual. The mixed Korean

pancake set (VND150,000) tastes more like
a tempura, with the odors from the herbs
completely removed by using the pancake
mixture with ice water. Wons fine beef ribs
(VND420,000) are unmistakable for their
quality. As she puts it, I only use American
beef. Im picky and cheap meat just smells.
The menus presiding dishes are the shabu
shabu noodles we select the beef fillet with
assorted veggies (VND390,000/2 people)
which proceeds like a four-course meal. It
begins with a rich vegetable soup in pork
bone broth, which becomes a regular hotpot
once you crunch through a good portion of
the veggies. As the remainder of the soup
begins to evaporate, Wons homemade
noodles are added to produce a creamy stirfry not unlike a soupy pasta. This dish has
a twist finish the noodles, and a saucer of
rice and egg are added to the remainder and
cooked as delicious fried rice. Customers
have asked me for the rice as a standalone
dish, Alexis tells me, but its impossible
you can only get that taste at the end of the
process.
Sadly, Wons other specialty was
unavailable on the meal we dined if you
want to try zombie octopus here (Google
it) youre advised to call ahead to check if
they have it. The cuisine is dramatic in its
simplicity, and youll leave the venue
feeling that no matter how much youve
indulged, youve still ended up doing your
body a favor.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Baby dumplings, Deep-fried

dumplings, Mixed Korean pancake set, Shabu Shabu noodles
with beef fillet and assorted veggies, Wons fine beef ribs,
Vegetarian dumplings

59

The List

Wine & Dine

Bars

Cavern Pub

Red Bar

Chill Skybar

Blanchys Tash

Last Call

Stylish venue in one of the classier

inner-city locales, Cavern entertains
locals and expats alike with a live
band every night, sports channels
on a large TV screen, and a great
atmosphere. Happy hour is from
6pm to
9:30pm (buy 2 beers get 1 free). Live
music is from 9.30pm-1am.
19 Dong Du, D1
090 826 5691

Ice Blue Bar

RED offers one of the longest Happy Hours

in Saigon, from 9am - 9pm, with live music
available from Monday-Saturday. This
multi-level bar has a non-smoking floor and
a function room along with a top quality pool
table and soft-tip dart machines. A menu of
Eastern and Western dishes includes woodfired pizzas.
70-72 Ng Duc Ke, D1
2229 7017

A small, atmospheric, emphatically English-style pub,

Ice Blue is a popular meeting place for Ho Chi Minh
Citys expats with reasonably priced drinks, friendly
staff and a cozy atmosphere. Great place to play darts.
54 Dong Khoi, D1

Undoubtedly the hippest, coolest nightspot in

downtown Ho Chi Minh, renowned for its cool house
music, live DJs at weekends and innovative range of
cocktails. Downstairs is a trendy bar where the glitterazi
like to be seen; rooftop an open bar with more chilled
style music. In between a new Vietnamese dining
concept.
95 Hai Ba Trung, D1
090 902 82 93
www.blanchystash.com

Offers the most stunning panoramic views of Saigon

and a wide range of wines and cocktails personally
prepared by Vietnam mixologist Le Thanh Tung.
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, D1
3827 2372
www.chillsaigon.com

Saigon's king of cool, Last Call is renowned for the

finest cocktails in the mellowest of settings. Slink
your way back to the Seventies in the velvety interior
or watch over the passing crowds from the laid-back
terrace. Funky (and even sexy) to the core, this classy
establishment is fittingly close to the Sheraton.
59 Dong Du, D1
3823 3122

Also Try...
Cargo Bar
Cargo Bar is a dedicated music and
arts venue designed and committed to
delivering diverse entertainment, along
with a good drink menu.
7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4

The Cube
Besides being a place for drinking and
unwinding, The Cube Bar also offers
unique, educational and exciting events
like bartending, modern cuisine, arts
& crafts and theme parties. Live music
daily.
31B Ly Tu Trong, D1
090 336 9798/01 2088 1964
info@thecube.vn

Game On
Opened in July 2013, Game On is one
of Saigons biggest sports bar, serving

60

breakfast, lunch and dinner. The bar also

has an extensive drinks menu including
coffees, juices, beers, wines, vodkas, and
more. Game On also boasts a function
room for corporate meetings or private
parties.
115 Ho Tung Mau, D1
6251 9898
gameonsaigon@gmail.com

The Hideaway
A new open air, but well cooled bar in
the heart of Bui Vien on the site of the
once popular Stellar cafe. A cut above
the regular backpacker haunts in style
and offer. Downstairs is a modern bar
with flat screen TVs showing sports,
a huge circular bar and tables, and
outdoor seating for people watching.
Upstairs are air conditioned rooms, pool
table and outdoor deck. Serves a wide
variety of liquors, including wines by the

glass or bottle.
119 Bui Vien, D1
090 279 99 62

The Observatory
In just a year, this funky, cosy bar and
gallery set in a French villa has become
the centre of the citys underground
dance music culture. Downstairs is a
cosy bar serving cocktails, beer and
wines, upstairs a gallery space and
a separate dance venue with regular
guest appearances from DJs from Asia
and beyond. Open daily from 6pm til
late (5am close Saturday and Sunday
mornings).
Corner Le Lai & Ton That Tung, D1.
3925 9415
www.theobservatory-hcmc.com

onTop Bar
Located on the 20th floor of Novotel

Saigon Center, onTop Bar provides

views over Saigon from an expansive
outdoor terrace. The venue offers a
menu with over 20 cheeses, cured
meats and both Vietnamese and
international-inspired tapas.
167 Hai Ba Trung, D3
3822 4866

Purple Jade
Purple Jade is a stylish, chic venue with
exceptional world class cocktails by one
of the citys award-winning bartenders
along with snacks to melt away the
bustle of the city.
First floor- InterContinental Asiana
Saigon
Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan
3520 9099
www.intercontinental.com/saigon

Cafs

AQ Coffee

Hatvala

Hideaway Caf

LUsine

Caf RuNam

The Library

Pleasing colonial-style caf permanently filled with the

aroma of fresh coffee roasted with traditional methods,
with a shady courtyard and quiet, peaceful atmosphere.
Situated in one of the city's oldest mansions.
32 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3
3829 8344

LUsine is a retail, caf and gallery space occupying two

locations in the center of D1. Its retail space is dedicated
to Vietnamese designers and more established
brands from abroad as well as stocking a wide range
of stationery and homeware items. The caf in both
locations serves international fare and a range of
pastries and the ever-popular sweet & sour cupcakes.
151/1 Dong Khoi, D1
70B Le Loi, D1
www.lusinespace.tumblr.com
9am 9pm

This teahouse, coffee shop and

restaurant offers selected, quality
Vietnamese tea and coffee to drink
or buy as leaves and beans. They
also have a delightful all-day casual
dining area in a stylish bistro.
44 Nguyen Hue, D1
3824 1534
8am - 11pm
hatvalavietnam@gmail.com
www.hatvala.com
facebook.com/hatvala

No disappointments from this earnest local cafe

consistently serving exceptional international standard
coffee. Beautifully-styled and focussed on an attention
to quality, Cafe RuNam is now embarking on the road
to becoming a successful franchise. The venue's first
floor is particularly enchanting in the late evening.
96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1
3825 8883
www.caferunam.com

Beautifully-styled coffee house in a restored French

Villa divided into numerous semi-private areas for
privacy and quiet contemplation. An eminently refined
venue providing a classier international-style caffeine
hit without the more plastic surrounds of a franchise
caf. Also serves fine Western cuisine.
41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3
3822 4222

The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those

in search of tranquility, comfort and great drinks in the
heart of Saigon
Ground floor InterContinental Asiana Saigon
Corner Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan
3520 9099
www.intercontinental.com/saigon

Also Try...
Cafe Terrace

A local interpretation of a European cafe

concept, Cafe Terrace has become a
popular destination for the local middle
class taking a respite from shopping in
the chic Saigon Centre. The main cafe
street-side facing onto Pasteur is always
busy with a mix of locals and expats
sipping coffee or enjoying a light lunch
or early dinner. Upstairs is a smaller cafe
amidst fashion stores, dimly lit and cool.
The menu includes savoury and sweet
crepes, cakes, juices, shakes and some
Vietnamese favourites.
Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1
3914 4958

Caffe Bene

A brand new cafe in the heart of District

1, marking the debut of a Korean coffee
and dessert concept in Vietnam. When
it opened queues stretched out the
door with locals and expats alike eager
to try the unique offer of European
style coffee, blended drinks and sweet,
creamy dessert and cakes. Modern,
industrial designed interior spanning
two floors, and with a corner site street
frontage which cannot be missed!
58 Dong Khoi, D1

3822 4012
caffebenevietnam.com

Ciao Caf

There's rarely a tourist who's been

through inner-city Saigon and hasn't
stopped in on the super-friendly-looking
Ciao Caf. It stands up well as an expat
mainstay too, with its fashionable dcor
that varies from floor to floor and its
classic selection of Western cafe and
bistro favorites.
74-76 Nguyen Hue, D1
3823 1130

Du Mien Garden Coffee

A 30 minute taxi ride from downtown,

but worth the effort, this unique cafe is
renowned for its treehouse feel. Set in
lush gardens, its a world away from the
chaos of Ho Chi Minh City. A destination
in itself, it offers much more than coffee;
open from 7am until 11pm, it attracts
workers, travellers and romancers alike.
The locals love it (20,000 likes on
Facebook!) for the coffee, the meals and
most of all the gardens.
7 Phan Van Tri Phuong 10, Go Vap.
3894 5555

LightBox Cafe

This stunningly designed cafe also

doubles as an event and photography
studio, so make sure you dress to
impress at this location because you
never know who might snap your
picture. They also serve vegetarian
cuisine with prices ranging between
VND300,000 - VND500,000
179 Hoa Lan, Phu Nhuan
3517 6668
www.lightbox.vn

Masstige

Another newcomer to the Vietnam

cafe scene, Korean-based chain
Masstige offers European style
coffee at competitive prices (40,000
VND for a mug of hot Cafe Latte)
and accompanying light snacks. For
something truly original, try the Avocado
coffee or their alcohol-free chilled
mojito cocktails. The name Masstige is
a blend of mass and prestige, meaning
premium but obtainable.
125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 (behind Sunwah Tower).
www.facebook.com/masstigecoffee

Mojo Cafe

This modern, chic caf, restaurant and

bar offers freshly baked homemade

cakes, pastries, wood fired pizzas, light
fare and superb coffee and smoothies
for dine in or take away.
88 Dong Khoi, D1
08 3827 2828
ww.mojosaigon.com

Vecchio Cafe

A self-styled Little Italy that does a good

job of looking the part, this venues
interior features ornate Italian dcor, dim
lighting, and antique furniture enhanced
by Italian music. Offerings include fine
meals, delicious gelato and beverages.
39/3 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3
6683 8618

The Workshop

A great find, this New York loft-style

venue is hidden away up a couple of
flights of stairs and well worth seeking
out. Spacious and airy with lots of
natural light, the central coffee bar offers
an exquisite gourmet selection. Superb
for setting up your laptop and getting
some work done over great coffee.
27 Ngo Duc Ke, D1
3824 6801 / 3824 6802
7am-8pm

61

CHINESE

Dragon Court

The well-heeled Chinese certainly go for luxury and

this venue has it in spades. Situated in a classy location
just opposite the Opera House, Dragon Court features
a broad selection of dishes from across the spectrum
of mainland cuisines, making this an ideal a-la-carte
venue as well as the perfect spot for Dim Sum.
11-13 Lam Son Square, D1
3827 2566

Li Bai

Thoroughly traditional Chinese venue at the Sheraton

Hotel and Towers offering choice oriental delicacies
against a backdrop of fine Chinese art. This opulent
venue, open throughout the day, is one of the citys
more beautiful restaurants in this category.
Level 2, 88 Dong Khoi, D1
3827 2828
www.libaisaigon.com

Dynasty

Kabin

New World's own slice of Canton with a particularly

fine Dim Sum selection, Dynasty is a traditional
lavishly-styled Chinese venue with flawless design.
Authenticity and a sense of old-world China make this
one of Saigon's more refined options for the cuisine. A
number of private rooms are available.
New World Hotel
76 Le Lai, D1
3822 8888
www.saigon.newworldhotels.com

Dine Cantonese-style by the river at the Renaissance

Riversides own Chinese venue decked out with
flourishes reminiscent of classical Qing period tastes.
Kabins cuisine is known for presenting new takes on
traditional dishes as well as for its more exotic fare.
Renaissance Riverside Hotel,
8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1
3822 0033

Ming Court

Ming Dynasty

The best in Chinese cuisine with a unique Taiwanese

focus in a Japanese hotel, Ming Court is classy in
its precision and graceful without compromise. Its
certainly one of the citys most impressive venues for
fans of the cuisine, and nothing is left to chance with
the venues signature exemplary service standards.
3rd floor, Nikko Saigon Hotel
235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1
3925 7777

Also Try...
Hung Ky Mi Gia

An old mainstay on the Chinese cuisine

trail with well over a decade in operation,
Hung Ky Mi Gia is known for its classic
mainland dishes with a focus on
delicious roasts. Safe and tasty Chinese
food.
20 Le Anh Xuan, D1
3822 2673

Ocean Palace

A place for those who love Chinese

food. The large dining room on the
ground floor can accommodate up to
280 diners. Up on the first floor are six
private rooms and a big ballroom that
can host 350 guests.
2 Le Duan Street, D1
3911 8822

Seven Wonders (Bay Ky Quan)

The brainchild of an overseas Chinese/

Vietnamese architect who wanted to
build something extraordinary in his
home town, this venue combines the
architectural features of seven world
heritage structures blended into one.
The cuisine is just as eclectic with
representative dishes from several
major Chinese traditions.

62

12 Duong 26, D6
3755 1577
www.7kyquan.com

Shang Palace

Designed very much after the fashion

of modern upscale restaurants in China
itself, Shang Palace specializes in
Cantonese seafood dishes and excels
in catering to large groups. A superb
choice for dim sum brunches with
authenticity guaranteed.
1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion
17-19-21, Ly Tu Trong, D1
3823 2221

Yu Chu

Yu Chu is renowned for the quality and

presentation of its authentic Cantonese
and Peking cuisines along with its
elegant dcor. Watching the chefs
prepare signature dishes such as handpulled noodle, Dim Sum and Peking
Duck right in the kitchen is a prominent,
popular feature.
First floor, InterContinental Asiana
Saigon
Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan
3520 9099
www.intercontinental.com/saigon

Ming Dynasty serves authentic Chinese food in

a setting reminiscent of an old Chinese palace.
Specialties include dim sum, abalone and dishes from
Guangdong.
23 Nguyen Khac Vien, D7

SPANISH

El Camino

La Habana

Ol

Tapas Saigon

Viva!

Pacharan

El Camino has the lively spirit of a party on the

Mediterranean with the fun and friendliness of a good
family venue. Affordable selection of Spanish & French
wines.
Nguyen Duc Canh, D7
www.facebook.com/elcaminovietnam

Tasty tapas at Vietnamese prices not far from the

center of District 1. Fresh ingredients, broad menu with
food prepared by a Spanish chef. Best washed down
with authentic house sangria.
53/26B Tran Khanh Du, D1
090 930 0803

Cuban venue with fine Spanish cuisine, Cuban cigars

and German beer. A wide range of tapas and cocktails.
Great bar atmosphere and late night entertainment.
6 Cao Ba Quat, D1
www.lahabana-saigon.com

Specializing in Andalusian cuisine, this restaurant

is a family venue that can also serve as a bar. The
restaurant is furnished in an eclectic style, from the
modern blue glass and stainless steel bar, to the
traditional wine barrels that serve as tables.
R4-28 Huwng Gia 4, Tan Phong, Phu My Hung, D7
5410 6721

With all the warmth youd expect from a decent venue

in this category, Ol serves authentic and tasty Spanish
favorites with great tapas and highly-recommended
paella. Family-run venue with a passion for great food
and good service without undue fuss. Feel at home.
129B Le Thanh Ton, D1
012 6529 1711

Ho Chi Minh City's original Spanish restaurant,

Pacharan occupies a high profile corner spot on Hai Ba
Trung. Spread over four floors, it offers a casual bar, two
floors of dining (one which becomes a destination for
live Spanish music late at night) and a rooftop terrace.
Features an extensive menu of tapas, main courses,
sangria and wines.
97 Hai Ba Trung Street, D1
090 399 25 39

63

FRENCH

Augustin

La Creperie

La Fourchette

The first authentic Breton French restaurant in the

country, serving savory galettes, sweet crepes with
tasty seafood and some of the best apple cider in
Saigon.
17/7 Le Thanh Ton, D1
3824 7070
infosgn@lacreperie.com.cn
11am-11pm

Small and cozy, La Fourchette is a favorite among the

French expat community. The vintage posters and
wood paneling add to the charm of this French eatery
located right in downtown, a stones throw from the
Saigon River.
9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1
3829 8143
www.lafourchette.com.vn

Le Rendez-vous de Saigon

Le Bacoulos

Le Jardin

Augustin is a romantic and charming French restaurant

located just steps away from the Rex Hotel. Serves
lunches and dinners and offers 10 percent discount on
a la carte menu items.
10D Nguyen Thiep, D1
www.augustinrestaurant.com

A wine bistro offering a warm and friendly atmosphere.

Unwind either in their stylish downstairs bar, or lounge
on cozy leather seating in the upstairs section with a
balcony overlooking a courtyard in an
alley. The venue offers a tasty selection of wines from
France to South Africa and a delectable menu of
French cuisine.
9A Ngo Van Nam, D1
www.lerendezvousdesaigon.com
6291 0396

Le Bacoulos is a French restaurant, bar and lounge that

serves French cuisine, bar food like burgers, fish and
chips alongside vegetarian options like spinach soup
and Greek salad. Theres also a garden to unwind in
with a glass of wine or enjoy a game of pool.
13 Tong Huu Dinh, D2
3519 4058
www.bacoulos.com

Also Try...
L'essentiel

L'essentiel offers a quiet intimate dining

experience downstairs with space for
private functions and alfresco dining
on an upper floor. The menu changes
weekly, the food is fresh and the wine
list carefully collated.
98 Ho Tung Mau, D1
0948 415 646

La Cuisine

A cosy restaurant just outside the

main eating strip on Le Thanh Ton, La
Cuisine offers quality French food in
an upmarket but not overly expensive
setting. Suitable for special occasions
or business dinners to impress. Regular
diners recommend the filet of beef.
48 Le Thanh Ton
2229 8882

La Nicoise

A traditional neighbourhood French

restaurant, La Nicoise serves simple,
filling French fare at exceptional value
in the shadow of the Bitexco tower.
Most popular for its steak dishes, the
restaurant has an extensive menu which
belies its compact size.
56 Ngo Duc Ke, D1
3821 3056

64

La Villa

Housed in a stunning white French

villa that was originally built as a private
house, La Villa features outdoor tables
dotted around a swimming pool and a
more formal dining room inside. Superb
cuisine, with staff trained as they would
be in France. Bookings are advised,
especially on Friday and Saturday
evenings.
14 Ngo Quang Huy, D2
3898 2082
www.lavilla-restaurant.com.vn

Le Bouchon de Saigon

Delightful, welcoming French bistro that

really puts on a show of fine quality
and service. With its small-village
atmosphere and exotic cuisine, this is
one of the more atmospheric and highaiming venues of the genre.
40 Thai Van Lung, D1
www.lebouchondesaigon.com

Trois Gourmands

Opened in 2004 and regarded as one

of the finest French restaurants in town.
Owner Gils, a French native, makes his
own cheeses as well.
18 Tong Huu Dinh, D2
3744 4585

A gorgeous enclosed garden space that allows eaters

to follow the example of the French colonists of a
century ago and pretend they're actually in Paris.
Whether dining outside under the shaded terrace or
within the old, warmly-lit villa, the cuisine, decor, and
general mood of the place is like a Stargate direct to
France.
31D Thai Van Lung, D1
3825 8465

INDIAN

Bollywood

Known for its complete North & South Indian cuisine,

Bollywoods specialty is its special chaat & tandoori
dishes. Parties, events & catering services are available,
with daily lunch tiffin and set menus. Free delivery in
Phu My Hung. Complete menu on Facebook.
2213 1481 | 2245 0096 | 093 806 9433
Hotline: 0906357442 (English)
bollywoodvietnam@gmail.com
Facebook: bollywoodvietnamindiancuisine

Babas Kitchen

Ganesh

Ashoka

Saigon Indian

One of Saigons best-loved Indian venues, Babas

is dedicated to authenticity in its cuisine and fair
prices. Tell them exactly what spice level you want
and theyll cater to your tastes from the mildest of
butter chickens to the most volcanic vindaloo. Always
friendly.
164 Bui Vien, D1
49D Xa Lo Hanoi, D2
3838 6661

A small chain of slightly more upscale Indian

restaurants serving both Northern and Southern Indian
cuisine including curries, naan and tandooris.
S9-1 Block R13, Bui Bang Doan, D7
5410 1989

Ganesh serves authentic northern Indian tandooris &

rotis along with the hottest curries, dovas and vada
from the southern region.
38 Hai Ba Trung, D1
8223 0173
www.ganeshindianrestaurant.com

Saigons original Indian eatery is still going strong,

located in a bright, roomy upstairs venue in the heart of
District 1. Authentic Indian cuisine at affordable prices;
functions a specialty.

Also Try...
Bombay Indian Restaurant

With its nice, central location and a very

relaxed dining area and home-style
atmosphere, Bombay is a superbly
casual venue well-reputed for its
authentic Indian cuisine and Halal
cooking.
250 Bui Vien, D1,
9am - 10.30pm

Curry Leaf

A new restaurant in District 7,

specialising in southern and northern
Indian cuisine, which grew from the
now closed Indus of D1. Fish, meat and
vegetable dishes are cooked fresh
in tandoor ovens with a commitment
to authenticity. Boasts 20 different
breads baked daily and six home made
chutneys.
62 Hung Gia 5, D7
curryleafvietnam.com

The Punjabi

Best known for its excellent tandoori

cooking executed in a specialized,
custom-built oven, Punjabi serves the
best of genuine North Indian cuisine
in a venue well within the backpacker
enclave, ensuring forgiving menu prices.
40/3 Bui Vien, D1
3508 3777

65

Italian

Ciao Bella

Ois Pick

Hearty homestyle
Italian food served
with flair and excellent
service. An extensive menu is complemented with daily
specials. Arriving guests are greeted with a free glass
of Prosecco. Diners sit in a cozy setting upstairs or on
the ground floor for people-watching. Big groups should
book in advance.
11 Dong Du, D1
3822 3329
tonyfox56@hotmail.com
www. saigonrestaurant
group.com/ciao

La Bettola

Chef/owner Giuseppe
Amorello combines sleek
decor with traditional
home cooking in this
two-story centrallylocated Italian eatery. Expect creative dishes such as
rucola e Gamberi as well as La Bettola that includes
shaved porchetta, focaccia and homemade mozzarella.
Theres a wood-burning oven on the premises and they
try to hand-make all their ingredients. They also deliver.
84 Ho Tung Mau, D1
3914 4402
www.labettolasaigon.com

La Hostaria

La Cucina

La Cucina has opened on Crescent Promenade in

Phu My Hung, with an open-plan kitchen that can
accommodate 180 diners. Enjoy top-end dining
featuring the best of Italian cuisine and a wide selection
of imported seafood, prepared from the freshest
ingredients, in a relaxed, rustic atmosphere with a
wood-fired pizza oven at its heart.
Block 07-08 CR1-07, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7
5413 7932

Designed with an intimate atmosphere invoking

something like an Italian town, this venue focuses
on traditional ethnic Italian cuisine (rather than the
ubiquitous pizza and pasta), creations of the skillful
executive chef straight out of Venice. The place lights
up on romantic Thursday evenings with candlelight and
light music.
17B Le Thanh Ton, D1
3823 1080
www.lahostaria.com

Da Vincis

Da Vincis is an Italian-American style pizzeria delivery

offering pizzas, lasagna, spaghetti, calzones, salads and
desserts. Their full menu is online at davincisvietnam.
com. Free delivery to Districts 1, 3, 4, 5, 7 and Phu My
Hung. Open 11am - 10pm.
Call 083 943 4982 or
SMS your order to 093 328 4624

Lucca

A cozy bar on the ground floor and a sprawling

restaurant area upstairs, Luccas menu is Italian by
nature but with an international influence: a distinctly
New York-Italian oasis in a busy Asian city which
delivers everything it promises. Great trattoria food,
coffee and wine in a classy environment reminiscent of
Brooklyn at a very reasonable price point.
88 Ho Tung Mau, D1
3915 3692
8am - 11pm

Also Try...
Casa Italia
Filling, hearty Italian fare served with a
smile in the heart of District 1. Authentic
pizza and a comprehensive range of
pasta, pork, chicken and beef dishes offers
something for everyone. Located a stones
throw from Ben Thanh Market.
86 Le Loi, D1
3824 4286

Pendolasco
One of the original Italian eateries in
Ho Chi Minh City, Pendolasco recently
reinvented itself with a new chef and
menu, and spurned a sister eatery in
District 2. Set off the street in a peaceful
garden with indoor and outdoor eating

66

areas, separate bar and function area, it

offers a wide-ranging Italian menu and
monthly movie nights.
87 Nguyen Hue, D1
3821 8181

Pizza 4Ps
Its too late to call this Saigons best-kept
secret: the word is out. Wander up to the
end of its little hem off Le Thanh Ton for
the most unique pizza experience in the
entire country sublime Italian pizza pies
with a Japanese twist. Toppings like you
wouldnt imagine and a venue youll be
glad you took the time to seek out.
8/15 Le Thanh Ton, D1
012 0789 4444
www.pizza4ps.com

Pomodoro
Often unfairly mistaken as a purely tourist
dining destination, Pomodoro offers an
extensive range of Italian fare, especially
seafood and beef dishes. The dining area
is in a distinctively curved brick tunnel
opening into a large room at the rear,
making it ideal for couples or groups.
79 Hai Ba Trung
3823 8998

Japanese

Blanchy Street

Ois Pick

Inspired by Londons worldfamous Nobu Restaurant,

Blanchy Streets Japanese/
South American fusion cuisine
represents modern dining at
its best in the heart of downtown, a truly international
dining experience in a trendy, modern and friendly
setting. Great sake and wine selection.
74/3 Hai Ba Trung, D1
3823 8793
www.blanchystreet.com
11am - 10:30pm

Achaya Cafe has two floors providing a nice

atmosphere for meetings, relaxation or parties. The
menu is extensive with drinks and Western, Japanese,
and Vietnamese food from sandwiches, spaghetties,
pizzas, steak and special Japanese sweet desserts.

Serves authentic Japanese cuisine including sashimi,

sushi, tempura, sukiyaki and shabu shabu.
River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2
6683 5308

90 Le Loi, D1
093 897 2050
11am - 10:30pm

Ebisu

Gyumaru

35bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1

3822 6971
ductm@incubation-vn.com
www.ebisu-vn.asia

8/3 Le Thanh Ton

3827 1618
gyumaru.LTT@gmail.com

Serving neither sushi nor sashimi, Ebisus menu instead

focuses on a range of wholesome charcoal-grilled
meals and on thick, white Japanese udon noodles
made from imported udon powder from Australia and
presenting an overall rustic cuisine with a variety of
good sakes.

Chiisana Hashi

Achaya Caf

Gyumaru is a quintessentially minimalist Japanese

dining experience rotating around the style of meat
meal Westerners would be quick to link to a gourmet
burger, but without the bread. Fresh, healthy, innovative
cuisine in a relaxed, cozy environment and regular
specials including quality steaks.

Ichiban Sushi

Ichiban Sushi Vietnam serves fine sushi and signature

drinks/cocktails in a lounge setting. Featuring one
of the most eclectic Japanese menus in the city. The
current Japanese venue to see and be seen in
everyone whos anyone is there.
204 Le Lai, D1
www.ichibansushi.vn

Also Try...
K Cafe

One of the larger Japanese restaurants

in the city, this exemplary sushi venue is
an ideal choice for business and friendly
gatherings.
74A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1
38245355
www.yakatabune-saigon.com

Monde

A Japanese whisky bar and grill serving

some of the best Kobe beef in the city.
The menu is Japanese with a European
twist. The venue is celebrity bartender
Hasegawa Harumasas first foray
into Vietnam, styled after his flagship
operation on Ginzas fashionable whisky
bar district in the heart of Tokyo.
7 bis Han Thuyen, D1

Osaka Ramen

This sleek, open-kitchen contemporary

eatery serves up Japanese noodles

starting from VND78,000. There are
also set menus, individual dishes and a
range of smaller, appetizing sides.
SD04, LO H29-2, My Phat Residential
Complex, D7

Robata Dining An

The restaurant has a downstairs bar

and a second floor with private rooms
that have sunken tables, sliding fusuma
doors and tabletop barbecues. Popular
with the Japanese expats, the menu
serves up healthy appetizers, rolls,
sashimi and An specialty dishes like
deep fried chicken with garlic salt sauce
An style.
15C Le Thanh Ton, D1
www.robata-an.com

Sushi Dining Aoi

Sushi Dining Aoi is one such restaurant,

where the whole atmosphere of the

place evokes the best of the culture.

With its typical Japanese-style decor
the smooth earthen tones of the
wooden furniture and surrounds, the
warmth and privacy of the VIP rooms
it's possible to believe you're in a more
elegant realm.
53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D3
3930 0039
www.sushidiningaoi.com

Yoshino

The decor is straight out of the set of

Shogun, with black wood, tatami mats,
stencilled cherry blossoms and all
the trappings of Japanese exoticism
tastefully done. While Ho Chi Minh
City is certainly not short of fine
Japanese eateries, this one is particularly
impressive.
2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1
3823 3333

67

Korean

Galbi Brothers

Superb casual BBQ venue focusing on every

foreigners favorite K-dish: galbi. Home of the only allyou-can-eat Korean BBQ in Saigon, GB is distinguished
by its inexpensive lunch sets and unabashed
enthusiasm for Korean spirits.
R125 Hung Phuoc 4, Pham Van Nghi Bac, D7
5410 6210

Seoul House

Long-standing venue serving Korean delicacies in this

city for many years, Seoul House is simple on dcor
and strong on taste. Specializes mainly in Korean
hotpot and grills.
33 Mac Thi Buoi, D1
3829 4297

Kang Nam Ga

Lee Cho

6B Le Quy Don, D3
3933 3589
kangnamga@gmail.com

48 Hung Phuoc 2, D7
5410 1086

An exceptionally refined style of Korean BBQ fit out

with high-tech smokeless racks, Kang Nam Ga is fast
becoming the Korean go-to venue for a wide-ranging
and clean introduction to the cuisine. Delicious beef
sets and the infamous and eminently popular ginseng
chicken soup all Kangnam style.

The venue may be upscale, but the service and feel of

this local-style Korean restaurant is very much downto-earth. Enjoy the pleasure of casual outdoor streetstyle Korean dining without worrying about the proper
decorum for an international venue. Great Korean
dishes at good rates.

Wons Cuisine

One of the citys most important Korean venues not

for reasons of authenticity, but rather for straying from
the norms. The restaurants proprietress has infused
so much of her own quirky tastes into the menu shes
completely ignored the conventions of the cuisine,
making Wons a unique creation with an unforgettable
taste.
49 Mac Thi Buoi
3820 4085

THAI
Baan Thai

Stylish modern restaurant with a

superb bar, Baan Thai serves authentic
Thai cuisine with additional local
and European twists. Friendly venue
with large screen TVs for casual
entertainment.
55 Thao Dien, D2
3744 5453
www.baanthai-anphu.com

Koh Thai

Supremely chic Thai venue with all the

authentic burn you need or without
if you prefer. An opulent, fashionable
decor with the cuisine to match often
reported to serve dishes comparable
with those of Thailand itself.
Kumho Link, Hai Ba Trung, D1
3823 4423

Lac Thai

Hidden away down a narrow alley in

the heart of downtown this unique Thai
restaurant boasts authentic flavours and
surprising character. Eat downstairs at
tables in a cosy, themed environment
- or be brave and climb the narrow

68

spiral staircase to the attic and crouch

on cushions in true Thai style while
attentive staff serve plates to share.
71/2 Mac Thi Buoi St. D1
3823 7506

Tuk Tuk Thai Bistro

Kitch and authentic, Tuk Tuk brings

the pleasure of street-style Thai food
into an elegant but friendly setting.
Now a fashionable venue in its own
right, Tuk Tuks menu features some
unique dishes and drinks you wont see
elsewhere.
17/11 Le Thanh Ton, D1
3521 8513/ 090 688 6180

The Racha Room

Brand new fine & funky Thai venue with

kooky styling and a great attitude and
some of the most finely-presented
signature Thai cuisine youll see in
this city, much of it authentically spicy.
Long Live the King! Reservations
recommended.
12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, D1
090 879 14 12

Steakhouse

Au Lac Do Brazil

Au Lac do Brazil is the very first authentic Brazilian

Churrascaria in Vietnam, bringing a new dining concept
- an All you can eat Brazilian style BBQ where meat
is brought to your table on skewers by a passador and
served to your hearts content.
238 Pasteur, D3
3820 7157 | 090 947 8698
www.aulacdobrazil.com

El Gaucho

Indaba

New York Steakhouse

Samba Brazilian Steakhouse

High end steakhouse with fine American and Wagyu

beef steaks along with traditional Argentinian
specialties. Outlets in Hanoi and Bangkok too. Expect
to pay for the quality. Reservations recommended.
74/1 Hai Ba Trung, Ben Nghe Ward, D1.
5D Nguyen Sieu, D1
Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, D7
www.elgaucho.asia

New York Steakhouse is definitely in the upmarket

category and serves exclusive American imported beef
dishes, with a whole range of steaks from rib eye, New
York strip steak and tenderloin being popular options.
25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1

Indaba Steakhouse combines German style steak and

Italian coffee under one roof. Expect fusion dishes
like Indaba Spring Rolls, Mexican BBQ Spare Ribs,
and Grilled Duck Breast served with sesame sauce,
steamed rice and salad.
35 Ly Tu Trong, D1
3824 8280
www.facebook.com/indabacafe

Serving the popular Brazilian buffet style, where

enormous skewers of meat are circulated around the
tables for diners to enjoy as much of as they can.
10C Thai Van Lung, D1
3822 0079

69

Vietnamese

Com Nieu

Frangipani Hoa Su

Frangipani Hoa Su offers Vietnamese cuisine with

a variety of dishes from different parts of Vietnam
ranging from pho, bun bo Hue to mi quang. It serves
breakfast, lunch and dinner. It also has an open space
and a VIP air-conditioned room together which can
hold a maximum capacity of 500 people, making it an
ideal venue for different types of events and functions.
26 Le Van Mien, D2
frangipani.restobar@gmail.com

Quan Bui

Famous for its inclusion in the Anthony Bourdain No

Reservations program, the venue is best known for its
theatrics. Every bowl of rice is served in a terracotta
bowl that is unceremoniously shattered upon serving.
Unforgettable local food in a very pleasant traditionallystyled venue.
59 Ho Xuan Huong, D3
3932 6363
comnieusaigon27@yahoo.com
comnieusaigon.com.vn

Propaganda Bistro

Hoa Tuc

Papaya

Spring rolls and Vietnamese street food with a Western

twist. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. The restaurant
features hand-painted wall murals in an authentic
propaganda style.
21 Han Thuyen, D1
3822 9048
www.facebook.com/Propaganda-Saigon

Relaxing, airy indoor-outdoor venue serving gourmetstyle local food. The ideal place to take visitors from
abroad if you want to impress them with an authentic
Vietnamese dining experience. Set in the refinery
courtyard that formerly officially produced the regions
opium.
74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1
3825 1676

Leafy green roof garden, upmarket restaurant with

reasonable prices and a wide menu of choices. Open
style kitchen advertises its cleanliness. Designer interior
with spotlighted artwork and beautiful cushions give
an oriental luxurious feeling augmented by dishes
served on earthenware crockery.
17a Ngo Van Nam, D1
3829 1515
(deliveries: 3602 2241 or 091 400 8835)

Brightly-styled and perfectly lovely, this is a minimalist

local venue with international appeal that features a
menu designed by the former head chef of Hanois
Sofitel Metropole. Refined and distinguished without a
hint of being stuck-up about it and very affordable.
68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh
6258 1508
papaya@chi-nghia.com
www.chi-nghia.com

Also Try...
3T Quan Nuong

Tasty BBQ venue situated above Temple

Bar. The venue has a traditional, rustic
theme with old-style furniture and a quaint
Vietnamese decor, making this a nicely
atmospheric restaurant and a great place
to dine with international friends new to
the cuisine. The menu features a number
of local favorites.
Top Floor, 29 Ton That Hiep, D1
3821 1631

Banh Xeo 46A

Fun Vietnamese-style creperie popular

with locals and expats alike for its tasty,
healthy prawn pancakes, along with a
number of other traditional dishes.
46A Dinh Cong Trang, D1

Cha Ca La Vong

If you do only one thing, you'd better do it

well and this venue does precisely that,
serving only traditional Hanoian Cha Ca
salads stir-fried with fish and spring onion.
Delicious.
36 Ton That Thiep, D1

Cuc Gach Quan

Deservedly one of the highest ranking

Vietnamese restaurants in Saigon on

70

Trip Advisor, this delightful restaurant

serves up traditional, country-style foods
and contemporary alternatives in two
character-filled wooden houses located
on opposite sides of the street from each
other. Unique food in a unique setting and
an unbelievably large menu.
10 Dang Tat, D1
3848 0144

Highway 4

The menu reflects the ambiance of the

north and wider Vietnam, although dishes
are carefully selected to meet a more
universal palate.
101 Vo Van Tan, D3
www.highway4.com

Hum

Hum is a vegetarian restaurant where

food are prepared on site from various
fresh beans, nuts, vegetables, flowers,
and fruits. Food are complemented with
special drinks mixed from fresh fruits
and vegetables.
2 Thi Sach, D1
3823 8920
www.hum-vegetarian.vn

May

Fine Vietnamese fare served in a

character-filled three-story rustic villa

located up a narrow alley, off the beaten
track. Watch the chefs prepare authentic
food from a varied menu in an open
kitchen.
3/5 Hoang Sa
3910 1277

Temple Club

Named after the old-style Chinese

temple in which the venue is located,
the ancient stylings of this impressive
restaurant make for an unforgettable
evening spent somewhere in Saigons
colonial past. Beautiful oriental art that
will please all diners and great local
cuisine.
29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1
3829 9244
templeclub.com.vn

Nha Hang Ngon

Possibly the best-known Vietnamese

restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City, Nha
Hang Ngon serves up hundreds of
traditional local dishes in a classy
French-style mansion.
160 Pasteur, D1
3827 7131
www.quananngon.com.vn
8am - 10pm

Thanh Nien

A favorite with tourists and locals for

many years, Thanh Nien behind the
Diamond Plaza is a buffet in a home
setting, with a-la-carte dining available
in the leafy garden outdoors. Relaxing,
beautiful place to eat.
11 Nguyen Van Chiem, D1
3822 5909
www.vnnavi.com/restaurants/thanhnien

International

Khoi Thom

Tucked away on the

quiet caf street of
Ngo Thoi Nhiem in
District 3, Khoi Thom
has evolved into an
authentic Mexican-style cantina serving home-style
dishes, many from the Mexican chefs family. With
bright colors, a large breezy outdoor deck with an open
bar and a long street frontage, Khoi Thom
has earned respect for its adventurous
hues and style since opening.

XichLoBBQ

XichLoBBQ is located
on Bui Vien - the heart
of the backpacking
area. The restaurant serves Vietnamese staples
alongside Western dishes with a specialty in barbecued
pork, beef, chicken and seafood. XichLoBBQ restaurant
is themed on the classic Vietnamese transport, with an
actual life size of the three-wheeled vehicle hanging on
the wall. Food here is reasonably priced.
37 Bui Vien, D1

Au Parc

One of the citys more charming international bistros in

a perfect tree-lined inner-city location. Au Parc serves
Mediterranean cuisine with local flourishes in a venue
lightly set off by plush seating and heady exotic styling.
A beautiful dining area and extraordinary menu will see
this becoming one of the mainstays in your restaurant
cycle.
23 Han Thuyen, D1
3829 2772

29 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3

www.khoithom.com

Bahdja

Algerian restaurant serving North African delights such

as couscous, tajines and desserts. The unique Mechoui
set dinner is a popular choice and perfect for groups
(available with prior notice).
87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, D1
093 787 2010 (French, Arabic, English, Finnish)

Boathouse

Berru

Berru is a family-run Turkish restaurant offering a

variety of Turkish specialties including kebabs, koftas,
mezzes and soups. This is one of the few halal
restaurants that imports all of their halal meat.
SC 3-1 Nguyen Luong Bang, Nam Khang, D7

With a great view of the Saigon River, this restobar

serves imported steak, healthy salads and much more
in an alfresco environment.
40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, D2
3744 6790
www.boathouse.com.vn

Also Try...
Boomarang Bistro

Located in The Crescent by the

lake, the spacious Boomarang
Bistro Saigon serves Australian
and other Western food in
the most pedestrian friendly,
relaxed part of town.
107 Ton Dat Tien, D7
3841 3883
www.boomarang.com.vn

The Deck

Located on the banks of the

Saigon River, this restaurant
offers great international and
Vietnamese fare along with
some fine cocktails. Best way to
arrive is by private speed boat
managed by the venue.
38 Nguyen U Di, D2
www.thedecksaigon.com

Elbow Room

At The Elbow Room, a rustic

homage to retro Americana
with its exposed brick, black
and white vintage photographs,
and Nora Jones soundtrack,

diners can order classic

American breakfasts all day.
Live music upstairs on Friday
nights is the citys best kept
secret.
52 Pasteur, D1
www.elbowroom.com.vn

Hogs Breath

An Australian family diner

and bar concept. Renowned
for steaks, seafood and other
Western fare served in an
informal environment. Smokefree indoors.
Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial
Tower
2 Hai Trieu, D1
www.hogsbreathcafe.com.vn

La Fenetre Soleil

Literally window to the sun,

LFS showcases a fusion of
old-world fittings (exposed
bricks, antique furniture and
chandeliers) with new-world
elements (fur cushions, mosaic
tiles and glass tables). Serves

a range of cocktails, imported

beer, coffee and smoothies
together with a JapaneseVietnamese fusion menu.
4 Ly Tu Trong, D1

La Fiesta

A new restaurant of Scott

Marquis, of Scott & Binhs fame,
La Fiesta offers mainly Mexican
food like tacos and enchiladas.
Also features liqueur coffees
and cocktails.
33 Dang Thi Nhu, D1
lafiestavn@gmail.com
www.facebook.com/
lafiestavietnam

Refinery

A charming venue with

a chequered history, the
Refinery brings the best of
European cuisine to the opium
headquarters of the old colonial
empire. Loving restoration work
has brought out much of the
buildings architectural charm,
and with a menu that delivers

the finest in French dining as

well as culinary flourishes from
around the continent, youll
never be short of options.
Stands up to multiple repeat
visits.
74 Hai Ba Trung, D1
3825 7667
www.therefinerysaigon.com

Skewers

Take your taste buds on a

Mediterranean fling. This
long-running family restaurant
serving Greek favorites feels
like fine dining but is as casual
as you care to be. Always
prepared with the freshest
ingredients, the quality of the
fare is consistent and authentic.
Cuban cigars and a serious
wine list are some of the
venues finer drawcards.
9A Thai Van Lung, D1
www.skewers-restaurant.com

you when you enter Saffron is

the terracotta pots mounted
on the ceiling. Located on
Dong Du, this restaurant offers
Mediterranean food, some
with a distinct Asian influence
added for further uniqueness.
Prepare to order plates to share
and dont miss the signature
Cheese Saganaki! Guests are
welcomed with complimentary
Prosecco, fresh baked bread
served with garlic, olive
tapenade and hummus.
51 Hai Ba Trung, D1
382 48358

Scott & Binhs

All-heart Western cuisine and

family friendly venue in the
D7 neighborhood. Scrupulous
attention to good service and a
commitment to great food that
makes customers happy.
15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, D7

Saffron

The first thing that will strike

71

Travel & Leisure

Image by james pham

72

Installation Art
Baan Silapin
73

image provided by magic art museum

D E ST I N AT I ON : BANGKOK

Oh, Grow Up!

Finding my inner child in Bangkok
TEXT AND Images by JAMES PHAM

On average, at age five we engage in creative

tasks 98 times a day, laugh 113 times and ask
65 questions. By age 44, the numbers decline
drastically to two creative tasks a day, 11
laughs and six questions. Study conducted
by the University of California (UCLA).
Travel tends to bring out the best and
worst of us. Confusing situations, unfamiliar
foods, indecipherable languages, inevitable
delays they are all part and parcel of the
travel experience. Its how we choose to deal
with them that defines our experience. Gripe
on everything thats different from home like
a grumpy old man? Or embrace those same
same but different elements with the wideeyed wonder of a child?
All the pathos and irony of leaving ones
youth behind is thus implicit in every joyous
moment of travel: one knows that the first joy
can never be recovered, and the wise traveler
learns not to repeat successes but tries new
places all the time, said historian Paul Fussell.
74

So it was that I was determined to tap into

my Inner Child, the Wonder Child, my True
Self that part of each one of us that revels
in playfulness, innocence, wonder and joy
in the most unlikely of places, Bangkok, the
City of Angels but perhaps better known for
its devilish adult pleasures. With advice from
mapmaker extraordinaire Nima Chandler of
the whimsically illustrated Nancy Chandler
Maps (www.nancychandler.net), I set out
to find the very best grown up versions of
childhood fantasies to help me rediscover my
Inner Child.

#Selfie

The Oxford Dictionaries' Word of the Year

for 2013 was selfie, originally squarely
the domain of teeny boppers and selfobsessed celebrities (Im looking at YOU,
Kim Kardashian.) But then the Pope did it. So
did President Obama with the Danish Prime
Minister. And ever since Ellen broke Twitter
with her star-studded selfie at the Oscars,

its perfectly okay for adults to get in on the

photographic self-love.
Opened in April of this year, the Magic
Art Museum is the third such exhibition
space in Bangkok devoted to all things
selfie, couplie and the group shot. The
museum consists of 60-70 painted illusions
and backdrops set up in four main galleries.
Capture yourself running from zombies or
getting pitchforked in the nether regions by
a red, horned devil while clinging to a spiky
tree in the Thai Horror Zone, appropriate
considering the love affair Thais have with
anything supernatural. Or row a boat with
a tiger in a floating market or escape the
jaws of a crocodile in the Thai Culture Zone
featuring backdrops of everyday Thai life or
popular tourist attractions. Go crazy in the
Funny Zone, escaping sharks bursting out of
an aquarium or in Photo Land, with its giant
pirate ship and myriad of props.
Some of the backdrops are great for
selfies, some require one of you to play
photographer (museum staff are on hand
if youre traveling solo) and others are
designed for groups of three or more.
Stickers on the floor indicate the best place
to stand to capture 3D effects but other than
that, patrons have to figure out poses for
themselves, sometimes needing to take a
photo sideways then rotating it or working
out how a slanted floor works to capture
perspective. All the art is made by Thais,
either artists or students from famous
universities, says Pook. And 80 percent of

Magic Art Museum

images provided by magic art museum

All the art is made by Thais,

either artists or students from
famous universities. And 80
percent of our guests are adults!

our guests are adults!

Located on the 7th floor of MBK mall
(National Stadium BTS stop), Magic Art
Museum is open daily, 10:30am 10:00pm.
Until the end of October, admission for
international visitors is THB350 for adults and
THB180 for children (regularly THB500 / 220).
See www.magicartmuseum.com

Dessert Alert
Teddy bear tea parties find their adult
reincarnation at the whimsical Mr. Jones
Orphanage, a cake shop straight out of a
childrens book. The concept is a fantasy,
of an old man building an orphanage in an
abandoned building, allowing children to do
things their parents would have forbade like
eating a lot of sugar, cakes and milkshakes,

explains creative director Roberto Giordano.

Gothic gargoyles line the faade of the shop,
while the interior is designed to look like a
conservatory set in an old church. The main
entrance evokes the nave, while dozens
of teddy bear orphans (complete with
individual information cards) look on from
the balconies. One side of the bakery houses
an open kitchen which produces everything
fresh daily, the irresistible smell of cookies,
waffles, pancakes, and crme caramel settling
like a blanket of unadulterated joy over the
magical space.
On the other side of the shop, a gigantic
carousel is set to host the mother of all
tea parties, with more teddy bears seated
around the room, while wooden carousel
horses and hundreds of paper airplanes

dangle above. While the low ceiling of the

upstairs library is perfect for wee ones to run
around, the clientele is decidedly adult. Its
one of the most creative spaces in the city,
says Pamela, here on a Thursday afternoon
with a girlfriend, sipping a Wanna Wanna
Have milkshake (vanilla caramel, chocolate,
macadamia nuts) and slowly savoring a
slice of Mr. Jones Secret Cake (shhhhh the
secret is Grand Marnier).
Mr. Jones Orphanage is one of the playful
venues owned by the Fico Group, which also
counts the Dickensian factory-themed Iron
Fairies bar and restaurant, the 1940s USA
bomb factory-themed gastro pub Bangkok
Betty and Maggie Choos, the chic Shanghaistyle underground cabaret bar, in its portfolio.
Since opening its first store in the Thong
75

Mr. Jones' Orphanage

Baan Silapin
76

Lor area of Bangkok in 2012, success has

come quickly, striking a chord with adults
looking to indulge their sweet tooth in
a playful setting. A second Mr. Jones
Orphanage opened the following year in
Siam Center, centered around a train theme.
Tracks suspended in the air run through
the space, and large moving wooden gears
adorn the ceiling. Trains are important
to this location, says Roberto. Theres a
connection to a real train at the [attached]
BTS station and you can get on the train that
takes you to Sugar Hills, the massive cake
display housing dozens of desserts including
Kit Kat Cakes and Chocolate Mud Pies. Four
other Bangkok locations are set to open this
year and the bakery has franchised its first
international location in Sapporo, Japan with
14 more of the dessert restaurants to roll out
over the next three years.
Visit the original Mr. Jones Orphanage
at SeenSpace Thonglor 13, Bangkok. Other
locations include Siam Center, Empire Tower
and Central World. Milkshakes and cakes
start at BHT130, with waffles, pies, pancakes,
cupcakes, cookies and a selection of savory
items rounding out the menu.

Art House
Forget Kermit and old socks with button eyes.
Baan Silapin, or the Artists House, is where
adults can enjoy classical Thai puppetry. Set
in an old wooden house directly on Klong
Bangkok Yai, an offshoot of the Chao Praya
River, Baan Silapin is a space dedicated to
the love of art. The owner is an artist, an
architect, says Lalita, one of the members of
the Kum Nai Hun Lakon Lek puppet troupe.
He wanted to make this gallery to show
artwork and [the process of making art, like]
painting and woodcutting. Its for art, not for
business. Theres an exhibition space upstairs
and youll often find local students sprawled
about, sketching and drawing. There are
free classes on puppetry and Thai classical
dancing on the weekends.
The main attraction, though, is a short
puppet show performed by Lalitas puppet
troupe. Unlike Vietnamese water puppetry
where puppeteers are hidden behind screens,
the professional Thai classical dancers are
clothed all in black with full black face masks,
gracefully moving in sync with the puppets
they control. It takes three people to operate
a single puppet, one each to control the right
hand, the left hand and head, and the feet.
Todays performance tells of the monkey god
Hanuman capturing Benyakai and involves
a war, a fake corpse and some serious puppet
smooching.
Puppet shows daily at 2pm except for
Wednesdays and Sundays, but calling
ahead (02-868-5279) to check the schedule
is recommended. While Baan Silapin is
becoming increasingly popular with river tours,
it is possible to get there by taxi (access via
Charan Sanitwong Soi 3 or Phetkasem Soi 20).
Admission is free and there is a small coffee
shop on-site along with very reasonably priced
gifts and postcards.

I, Robot
What kid doesnt dream of a future filled
with robots programmed to serve our every
whim? The future is now at Hajime Robot
Restaurant. Customers order food using a

Hajime Robot Restuarant

tableside touch screen and a countdown

timer lets you know when to expect the
giant Japanese robot to zip along a German
track motion system bringing your dishes
to the table.
Hajime means beginning or first, says
Chatchanat Paojaroen, Senior Operation
Department Manager. The owner visited
a robot exhibition in Chiang Mai and
came up with the concept to have robots
serve food to customers, the first ever
restaurant with this concept in Thailand.
Our conversation is interrupted by
Gangnam Style blaring over the
speakers as the robots launch into a
full-fledged dance, complete with cowboy
hand movements, one of seven songs on
rotation every 30 minutes (more often if
there are a lot of children), including Thai
and Japanese favorites.
I think what attracts people is the
robots, says Chatchanat. But the
ambience and the high quality menu
ingredients bring them back. Nearby
office workers crowd the restaurant during
the week while weekends are dominated
by families looking to feast on the New
Zealand beef and Japanese Wagyu, tiger
prawns, salmon steaks, lamb chops and as
much sushi as you can eat in an hour and
a half.
The 144-seat restaurant came at a 30
million baht investment with an even
larger restaurant operating in Pattaya and
one with talking robots planned for Chiang

Mai early next year.

The Hajime Robot Restaurant is located
on the 3rd floor of Monopoly Park, a short
taxi ride from the city center. The Shabu
Shabu buffet is priced at BHT 359 and the
Yakiniku BBQ at BHT 499, including free
flow of soft drinks and desserts. See www.
hajimerobot.com

No Adults Allowed
Few things evoke happy childhood memories
like a backyard tree house. No rules, no
chores, no parents. Pull up the ladder and
youre in your own world with a best friend
for company or maybe just a stack of comic
books or a boxful of baseball cards.
Weary city dwellers in the know escape
to the Bangkok Tree House, a collection of
10 themed nests set on Bang Krachao, an
unexpected island oasis of green just across
the Chao Praya River from downtown
Bangkok. Looking very much like Saigons
Thanh Da area, the so-called Green Lung of
Bangkok is just six miles from the financial
district of Silom, but a world away with
its dense coconut and papaya groves and
elevated pathways perfect for bicycling.
The eco boutique hotel is the brainchild
of Joey Tulyanond. When I first biked here
in 2007 and saw how special the area was,
I knew I wanted to build something but it
had to be in line with the environment both
architecturally and philosophically, he says.
My instructions [to the architect] were
actually contradictory: I wanted the design
77

image provided by bangkok tree house

Bangkok Tree House

to fit in with the environment but it also had

to stand-out. The architect did this by using
very geometrical lines (the rooms are shaped
like boxes) but used organic materials and
colors that blended with the surrounding.
Each room has a different theme, including
larger-than-life butterflies, fireflies and ants.
The hexagonal bamboo latticework evokes a
honeycomb structure in the Bee Hive room,
while all the nests have a lovely indoor
/ outdoor area with rainfall showerheads
enclosed by bamboo privacy screens. The
website even lists a River Nest comprised
of an inflatable bed set in the middle of
the Chao Praya River. While the hotel is
definitely green, using solar and wind power
to generate electricity for the outdoor areas,
its not quite that green. That was for a
photo shoot, explains Digital and Social
Media Manager Rinrada Kroeksupharak.
Water levels are unpredictable, then there
are the waves from the boats. We wouldnt
want our guests waking up in the middle
of the ocean. But a lot of guests have been
78

asking about it, so who knows? she says.

For guests who tire of lazing on the rooftop
hammocks or watching life roll by on the
river while having free pineapple mint ice
cream, complimentary bicycles await to
explore the island. Nearby, theres the Ban
Nam Pheung Floating Market (although a
misnomer, as the market is by the canal, with
very few boats actually on the water) and a
200-year-old wat featuring a giant Buddha
statue. Ride past the Joss Stick House with its
classes on incense stick making to the other
side of the island to find the quirky Siamese
Fighting Fish Gallery with dozens of jars
housing colorful Thai bettas of every variety.
In the evening, set aside an hour or so to go
on one of the hotel-organized firefly boat
tours, checking out the lampu trees along the
shore that flicker like Christmas trees with
hundreds of fireflies. The boat owners are
trained by Kasetsart University, known for its
research on fireflies, and a hotel staff member
will come along to translate.
This area really is special, particularly

because it is so close to Bangkok, says Joey.

We cant stop development, but we all can
try to make the development fit in with
nature as much as possible, meaning letting
the environment determine the design. For
the nature-loving kid-at-heart, the firefly
tours and all-day ice cream are just a bonus
to this urban tree house getaway.
Doubles start at BHT 4,590, inclusive of
breakfast and fireflies boat tour.To get to
the hotel, take a taxi from the Bang Na BTS
station to the Bang Na Pier. Public ferries leave
every 20 minutes for the five-minute crossing.
A short 400 meter walk along the elevated
sidewalk takes you to the hotel. See www.
bangkoktreehouse.com
Comedian Gilda Radner once said: While
we have the gift of life, it seems to me the
only tragedy is to allow part of us to die,
whether it is our spirit, our creativity or our
glorious uniqueness. Heres to your Inner
Child leading you to wonderful places on
your travels!

PO S T C ARD S F ROM VIETNAM

The First of Many

A professional artist and author of A Week in Hoi An,
Bridget March specializes in urban landscapes and aims
to reveal the hidden treasures of city life and small town
cultures through her illustrations. Bridget offers art
classes and sketching tours in Ho Chi Minh City. For
more of Bridget's work, visit bridgetmarch.co.uk

illustration BY Bridget March

Growing education through art

I am sitting at my studio window

that overlooks the mountains and rice
fields of the Sapa valley. It is dawn, and a
rose and blue sky is the backdrop to the
magnificent landscape that rolls down the
valley into the purple haze of distant hills,
villages, waterfalls and bamboo groves.
I had never been to Sapa before when
I arrived wide eyed in early June to be
the artist in residence at Sapa Rooms for
four months. I had been invited to spend
a cool summer in the mountains in return
for a contribution to the owners charity
endeavors that supports one of the
poorest schools in the district.
I started by meeting the 140 children
of the remote school who spent a
frenzied morning drawing everything
they know from mountains to pig sheds
and caged birds to roaming roosters.
They produced hundreds of drawings
that would be the inspiration for my
work and their labors were rewarded
with sacks full of donated shoes that we

had brought up from Hanoi on the train.

The next stage of my induction was
to walk the trekking paths of Lao Chai,
Ta Van, Ta Phin and Ban Ho to meet the
people, visit their homes and experience
the magic of walking through these
timeless farmlands where rice, corn and
fruit have been grown in the same way
for hundreds of years. Ancient carvings
on huge boulders along the lower slopes
of the valley offer evidence that some of
the rice paddies, still cultivated today,
may be many thousands of years old.
It has been a rich and fulfilling summer.
I have designed products that will be sold
to provide a sustainable income for the
schools. My final exhibition has morphed
into Sapas first annual art festival. The
many and varied artists of Sapa wanted
to support our efforts and are donating a
percentage of any sales to the children.
Their enthusiasm and friendship has
fuelled my creativity these past months.
I only have a few days left in this

mountain paradise. The festival opens

on September 20th and runs through to
October 18th. Next year, I will be back to
set it up again and hopefully, through this
event, we can raise the profile of the art
of Sapa and continue to raise money for
education for many years to come.
I arrived as the last fields of rice were
being planted and now it is harvest time
in the mountains. The corn was gathered
in a few weeks ago and the traditional
wooden houses are festooned with
perfect strings of corn cobs drying in the
sun to make flour. The mountainsides
have turned from green to bright yellow.
In the late afternoon sun as mists rise up
from the river, the orange September sun
turns the fields to burning gold. Its time
to move on.
If you would like to know more about
the work I did in Sapa and the products
that resulted, please drop me an email at
bammbah@hotmail.co.uk.

79

L IF E 'S A T RI P

Travel Hacking 101:

Part 2
Fat fingers and mileage runs
for cheap (or free!) travel

In last months column, we

talked about travel hacking, the art of
maximizing the value of every resource (be
it time or money) with the goal of traveling
for very little money (with free being the
ultimate goal) or getting perks (upgrades,
benefits, deals) that would normally be
beyond your budget.
While credit card bonuses are by the far
the fastest way of earning mega points,
the really good deals are reserved for US
residents and to a lesser extent Canadians
and Australians. This month, Id like to
share some tips from the travel hacking
community that can be used for readers
based here in Saigon.

Sign Up for EVERYTHING

Since deals/bonuses pop up at various
hotels/airlines at different times of the
year, the only way to stay abreast is to
sign up for everything frequent flyer
80

programs, hotel memberships, travel

website newsletters... Sure, this means
youll be getting tons of promotional
emails, but that is the time cost of travel
hacking. (Try setting up a separate email
account for sign-ups and have it forward
to your main account. That way, your main
account wont get bogged down with too
much spam.) You can cut down on the
sign-ups by focusing on accumulating
miles on one airline per alliance. While
that means youll get less emails, you
might also miss specials on niche airlines.
While I dont fly Vietnam Airlines that
often, a newsletter alerted me to a special
sale, so later this month, Im heading to
Hong Kong for less than USD150 return,
taxes in!

Maximize Your Spending

Even having a rewards credit card, travel
hackers will rarely settle for a single dip.

Having visited nearly 60 countries as a travel writer

and award-winning photographer, James Pham
blogs about his adventures at FlyIcarusFly.com

Instead, double dip by going to the online

shopping portal of your main airline. Youll
at least be able to double your miles (once
for purchasing through the portal, once
for using your credit card) and usually
more (using retailers that offer multiple
miles per dollar spent). Serious hackers
will try for the triple or quadruple dip,
going to a separate site to buy e-gift cards
or to get cash back on purchases (like
www.bigcrumbs.com) for their favorite
e-retailer. Even if you dont need to buy
anything at the moment, you can still take
advantage of bonus deals by buying gift
cards for later use. (Keep in mind, though,
that the spirit of travel hacking means not
buying things you dont need just to score
points, or leaving a balance on your credit
card on which youd have to pay interest.)

Mileage and Mattress Runs

Mileage runs (taking flights) and mattress

TRAVEL Column
runs (staying in hotels) represent traveling
in order to reach up the next level of
benefits. Whether or not you actually
want to go to a particular destination may
not even be relevant. Hackers look for
the best CPMs (cents per mile), focusing
on ways to extend the trip or add a few
extra (read: unnecessary) connections. An
example earlier this year from FlyerTalk
was a four-day return trip from Boise,
Idaho (USA) to San Francisco to Frankfurt
to Johannesburg, scoring 23,000 elite
qualifying miles (which sometimes cant be
bought or are much more expensive to buy
than regular miles used for free tickets) for
a little over USD1,200, costing just over 5
cpm. Its not pretty, but one run like this
may set you up for waived luggage fees
or free VIP lounges for a whole year with
your newfound elite status. While this
isnt for me (I fly well, but spending days
in planes and terminals isnt my thing,
no matter what the reward), I have done
mattress runs, more to get a bonus than
to reach a certain level. Mattress runs
often require you to register separately
for a specific deal, even if youre already a
hotel member. Again, this is where signing
up for everything comes into play. On a
recent trip, instead of staying a full week
at a hotel as initially planned, I broke
it up into two bookings of three nights
each, in order to take advantage of a deal
where youd get a free night for every
two (non-consecutive) stays. For the night
in between, I explored a different part of
town. Packing and unpacking was a bit of
a pain, but for a free night valued at about
USD140, it was worth it.

Fat Finger Fares and Promo Codes

Now onto the potentially shadier side
of travel hacking. Fare glitches, mistake
fares or colloquially fat finger fares
(the result of clumsy typing, like leaving
out a zero somewhere) are the fares that
are obviously too low to be sustainable,
perhaps due to a decimal point in the
wrong place, a currency conversion
error or something else. An example
could be a certain routing where the fuel
surcharges (which could comprise up to
70 percent of the fare) simply get left out
due to a glitch known as fuel dumping.
A well-publicized example earlier this
year was a New York City to Oslo return
fare for USD370. Or maybe instead of
costing 150,000 points per night for a
hotel, its listed as only 15,000. Travel
hackers will comb the internet for glitches
on international sites, not just from
their home country. However, consumer
advocate Chris Elliott says: Im all in favor
of smart travel strategies, but theres a
difference between being an enlightened
passenger and being a liar. If youre oldschool, like me, then hacking is wrong
In every case, theres a clear line between
right and wrong. Just because something
isnt illegal doesnt make it right.
Other ways to bend the truth, as it were,
are adding a title like Dr. to your name

or saying its your birthday/honeymoon in

order to get extra perks or better service.
Theres also the use of promo codes or
Friends & Family discounts that werent
intended for you, like those reserved for
members of the military, government
or certain corporations. Sometimes you
may not be asked for proof when you
check-in for your cruise, car rental or
hotel, but if you are, be prepared to pay
full price or walk away (or in some cases,
even be charged the full price after youve
already used the service). I asked Chris
Guillebeau, travel ninja extraordinaire
about the morally gray area of travel
hacking. I don't feel like I'm taking
advantage of anyone, including companies.
Most of them are happy for people to
earn points and miles. Even with mistake
fares, sometimes they honor them and

When I was
first getting
started, I spent
a lot more time
building my initial
mileage balances
and learning the
ropes. Sure, you
can get consumed
by it. Be careful.
sometimes they don't when they do, I
think they earn goodwill. When they don't
honor them, that's okay there will be
another opportunity at some point.
With the power of social media,
companies are increasingly honoring glitch
fares to avoid bad press, but in any event,
its wise not to book non-refundable items
like accommodation or tours until youre
sure your original purchase will stand. As
someone whos travelled to every single
country (all 193 of them!), Chris knows a
thing or two about travel hacking. Among
the things hes done is buy USD500
Business Class flights from Malaysia to
Vancouver, get a hair loss consultation
at a doctors office in exchange for miles
(despite having a full head of hair) and
purchase USD60,000 worth of dollar coins
from the US Mint, returning them to the

bank in a shopping cart. When I asked

him whether hes ever done anything
hes regretted in the name of cheap/free
travel, Chris said: Can't think of anything.
Though there were probably a few times
when I wondered how much time I was
spending on something compared to the
miles received. Overall, though, it's been
very much worth it and I haven't been
troubled by anything.

Join the Community

Travel hacking obviously requires a
significant amount of time and persistence,
scouring the internet and making friends
within the community who will contact
each other with the latest too-good-tobe-true deals that may only last for a few
hours until companies notice an inordinate
amount of people booking a particular
product. About the time he spends travel
hacking, Chris says that these days, not
too much maybe a few hours a month.
When I was first getting started, I spent a
lot more time building my initial mileage
balances and learning the ropes. Sure, you
can get consumed by it. Be careful.
For many true travel hackers, checking
forums on FlyerTalk or MilePoint which
may comprise hundreds of threads is part
of their daily routine, not only to monitor
deals but to keep track of changes to the
system, like the move from Delta Airlines
to award miles based on ticket prices
instead of actual miles flown starting next
year, certainly impacting the usefulness of
mileage runs. For newbies and those with
less time, sites like Chris Travel Hacking
Cartel (www.travelhacking.org) are a
great option. The Travel Hacking Cartel
tracks more than 170 blogs, websites,
forums and newsletters to curate the best
offers, promising that half their deals are
available worldwide and that members
will earn a minimum of 100,000 miles
a year spending at least 30 minutes a
month working the system. I took them
up on their 14-day USD1 trial and found
deals available for Asia including a new
shopping portal from Singapore Airlines,
3x Flyer Bonus points for Bangkok
Airways flights made on your birthday
in 2014 and a link to a website in Dutch
which would get you instant Platinum
status on a new Accor account.
Asia is a great market right now,
especially with the budget airlines. The
legacy carriers like Singapore Airlines and
Cathay Pacific are my favorites worldwide,
but it's usually much easier to earn miles
for their use through the US programs.
Anyone can do this regardless of where
they live, asserts Chris who leaves us with
his top four tips for those wanting to break
into travel hacking: 1) Pay attention.
There are always a lot of deals happening,
many of which don't require signing up
for cards. 2) Try to earn miles for things
you do every day. 3) When booking travel,
go through a portal that awards a bonus
(without costing you any more, of course)
4) See step 1.
81

The List

Travel
An Lam Villas | Ninh Van Bay

Ana Mandara Villas | Dalat

Princess dAnnam | Phan Thiet

Fusion Maia | Danang

HIS Travel

Jasmine Court

The Sofitel Metropole | Hanoi

La Veranda | Phu Quoc

Novela Muine Resort & Spa

Built amidst enormous granite

boulders and natural fauna on
NINH VAN BAY
the shores of Ninh Van Bay and
inaccessible by road, An Lam Villas Resort is serenely
beautiful, silent, relaxing and safe. With private pools, butler
service, and superb modern facilities, the whole concept is
based on respecting the ecological hinterland, celebrating
Vietnams food and culture - and service. There are 33
villas, and is an ideal location for honeymoons.
Tan Thanh Hamlet, Ninh Ich Commune,
Ninh Hoa District, Nha Trang
(05) 8362 4964
reservation@anlamnvb.com
www.anlam.com

A unique and exciting fusion of resort and spa where

spa treatments are inclusive and a part of daily living in
this beach resort. Its the first all pool villa style resort in
the destination and offers 87 pool suites, spa villas and
beach villas each with modern, open-plan living and private
courtyard with swimming pool. Freedom options such
as spa treatments and breakfast available at multiple
locations are a few of the surprising offers in store.
maiadanang.fusion-resorts.com

Located at the heart of Hanoi since 1901, Sofitel Legend

Metropole Hanoi has a long history as a luxury palace
for many prestigious events and popular rendezvous.
Features include 364 rooms and suites, excellent French
cuisine at Le Beaulieu, Vietnamese specialties at Spices
Garden, and Angelina Hanois most avant garde
Italian Restaurant & Lounge. Seven function rooms, a
swimming pool, fitness centre and Le Spa du Metropole
are also available in the hotel.
www.sofitel-legend.com/hanoi/en/

82

Ana Mandara Villas Dalat comprises 17 restored

French-style villas from the 1920s and 1930s, preserving
the original design, dcor and charm; and set in the
cool climate of the rural highlands of Central Vietnam.
Striking views of the surrounding town and countryside
abound from all areas of the gently sloping hillside
property. Some of the villas have been converted into
65 guest accommodations, with each villa comprising
between three and five ensuited rooms.
www.anamandara-resort.com

With 178 branches in 122

countries, HIS Travel is with
you around the world. A strong
global network means HIS has
the latest travel info enabling smooth arrangement
of air and land travel, accommodation, local tours and
attractions. Whether you are seeking safe, reliable travel
within Vietnam, personal or business travel within Asia
or internationally HISs experienced, English-speaking
staff can custom build an itinerary to suit your needs
and budget. Specializes in Japan Rail Pass.
M Floor, 233 Dong Khoi st, D1
08.3939.0808(JPN)/08.3939.0804(VN)
sgn.objp@his-world.com
www.histravel.com.vn / www.facebook.com/histravel

The most distinguished of Phu Quoc Islands hotels and

guesthouses, La Veranda sports paddle fans, butteryellow exteriors, whitewashed louvers, and tropical
gardens recalling a colonial plantation. Freestanding
deluxe villas are notable for their sea-facing porches,
spacious bathrooms, and cathedral-like ceilings. This is
the resort of choice for guests taking advantage of this
unspoiled remote tropical island destination.
www.laverandaresorts.com

The Princess is an exquisite resort with an almost

celestial atmosphere that is hard to find anywhere else
in Vietnam. The look of the resort is classical, bright
and impeccably clean and private. The two Empress
Suites are the very pinnacle of luxury accommodation
in Vietnam they are mini millionaires mansions in
themselves, fully-equipped, bright and spacious, and
possessing of the same ethereal design quality that
pervades this whole resort. Set in the remote Ke Ga Bay
wordlessly beautiful.
www.princessannam.com

Located on a peaceful and beautiful

side street off Nguyen Van Troi
Boulevard, only 5 minutes from
the Tan Son Nhat International
Airport and 15 minutes to the city centre, this boutique
property with only 12 apartments is comprised of one
and two-bedroom suites of various sizes. All apartments
are designed in a fresh contemporary style and finished
in a pleasing neutral colour scheme. With personalized
service, our warm and attentive staff will make your stay
with us a pleasant and enjoyable experience.
307/29 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh
08 3844 6639 - 092 669 9033
www.jasminecourt.com.vn

A 150-meter beach resort that offers

luxurious accommodations, countless
modern facilities and amenities with
attentive services. A private and unique
space in the heart of resort, Novela
restaurant serves a daily breakfast, lunch, dinner and
any other banquet with Asian and European cuisine.
With two floors, guests can enjoy wining and dining and
view the beautiful beach and sand hill.
96A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien
Mui Ne, Phan Thiet
www.novelaresort.vn
(62) 374 3456

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83

Living
IMAGES BY ALEX CUI

84

Behind the
Forbidden City
This ao dai collection took inspiration from the ancient royal
robes that were in vogue during the Nguyen Dynasty. It
combines three dimensional hand embroideries of phoenixes
and dragons - Asian symbols of royalty - with intricate cast
bronze decorations. The collection represents an idealized
image of Asian beauty - luxurious and seductive while evoking
mystery and intrigue. These unique designs were specially
created to promote and preserve Vietnam's cultural heritage.

85

86

87

88

Model: Tra My, Dua Hau

Costume: HULOS by Huynh Hai
and The Huy
Photographer: Alex Cui
Make up/Hair: Huy Tuan
Communicator: Hoang Dao & MY
Communications
Location: Ky Long Art Gallery
89

90

my life as . . .

My life as
a shoe shine boy
Interviewed by Le Phuong Linh, Peter Le, Do Dang Tien,
Chieu-An Ton Nu Image by NGOC TRAN

My name is Son and my hometown is Nam Dinh

Province. Im 26 years old. After I finished secondary
school back in my hometown, I went to Hanoi to work
and Ive been here for 10 years already. I work for the
railway and when Im not working for the railway, I
shine shoes.
There are three kids in my family. Im the youngest.
My brother and sister live in the countryside. They
work in the fields as farmers or they just sell small
goods here and there. I have a wife and a one-year-old
daughter. My wife farms in the countryside and I work
in Hanoi. Any extra money I make I send home to
my family. Its not a lot of money because the cost of
living here is quite high, but usually I send about VND1
million back a month. It used to be easy to save money.
Now, money loses its value so quickly I just cant save
as much anymore. It doesnt matter how hard I try.
During the weekends, I start work at 8am and keep
shining shoes for the whole day. From 8 to 9 in the
morning is when I get the most customers. Thats
when theyre usually sitting at cafs, having their
coffee, reading the paper, or just chatting with each
other. But for my job, I basically just wander around
the Old Quarter for the whole day. In the afternoon, I
go back to the guesthouse in Phuc Tan to have some
lunch. I rent my own room. I dont share the space
with anyone. I take another break for some food from
6pm to 6:30pm. By 7pm the sky is starting to get dark,
so Ill continue wandering a little longer and then
stop. As for my job with the railway, I have to work
all day and the pay isnt high either, VND2 million a
month. On weekdays, I start at 8am and finish at 4pm.
Afterwards, I make time to go shine shoes for another
two or three hours.
When I see a potential customer, I just invite them
to get their shoes shined. In general, rich people want
their shoes shined more often. When I shine a pair of
shoes, I give the customer these plastic flip-flops to
wear while Im shining. Beside dress shoes, I can also
polish athletic shoes with water and soap. I charge
VND7,000 for each pair of shoes. Normally, I polish
shoes for Vietnamese people. If I offer the service to
Westerners and they accept, then Ill do it. If they
dont want it, then I move on. There are a lot of shoe
shiners who will beg Westerners, even try to take their
shoes off for them, but thats not how I do it, I wont
beg. Most of my customers are regular customers. I
like regular customers because while Im shining their
shoes we can joke around a little.

wasnt just to fine us, they put us in jail. For the first
offense, wed get 15 days in Dam Dau jail in Dong Anh.
The second offense was three months at Ba Vi. The third
offense was six months, and so on. In Dam Dau jail they
didnt make me do much, they just locked me up. But in
Ba Vi, they say the inmates have to tend cows and stuff.
Luckily, Ive only been to Dam Dau. [Laughs]
When I first started shining shoes, we used to carry
our polish and brushes around in a special wooden
box. But ever since the cops cracked down, weve had
to disguise ourselves. We put our gear in shopping
baskets or plastic bags. But at least these days the cops
dont chase us like they did a few years ago. Now its
only when they get a special order that they come
after us. I dont know why they target shoe shiners.
The only thing I know is that they get the order from
higher up. Maybe they think were homeless people
and were bad for the citys image.
Hanoi has changed a lot since I started working
here 10 years ago. The streets used to have more
room to walk, but these days there are so many cars
and motorbikes, its very cramped now. Back in the
day, shoe shiners would have their own turf, and
each one just worked their own area. But by the time
I started working in Hanoi, the system had already
broken down. When I first started, there was a lot of
competition, but not anymore. Now there arent many
shoe shiners left in Hanoi. Us ones that are left, we
avoid each other. If I see theres already a shoe shiner
at a caf, I wont go in.
In general, I love the sense of freedom this job
gives me. I dont like the feeling of being tied down.
For example, I wouldnt want to be a security guard
because it would force me to sit still all day. But then
sometimes I look at people with stable jobs, and then
I look at myself, just wandering around aimlessly my
whole life. Then I pity myself.
I have no idea about the future of this job. My
friends dont even do this job anymore. As for me, for
now Ill just keep on doing what Im doing. If I could
choose another job in the future, Id want to be a taxi
driver because its easier to earn money. Ive got some
friends whove become taxi drivers. Id like to learn to
drive, but I cant afford to pay for the lessons. Mainly,
though, I have to think about the future of my little
girl. I have to find a way to put her through school so
she can have a higher education than I got. We cant
have her end up just wandering around endlessly like
her father. [Laughs]

Room to Walk

Additional editing by Gerard Sasge.

It's a Living: Work and Life in
Vietnam Today is available in paperback
on Amazon or as an e-book on iTunes
(scan code).

The hard part about this job is always having to walk

around to find customers. Thats when you can get
caught by the cops. Several years ago, the cops started
trying to catch shoe shiners. And if they caught us, it

91

H O M E I N T E RI OR

DESIGN Column

A Bold
Understatement

Gone are the days where a matching

set of wood furniture, polished to the point
of reflection, was the height of class. The
most welcoming and dynamic spaces are
characterized by a mix of materials and
textures that imply the interesting and
well-rounded nature of their owner. A tall
order for an interior? Perhaps, but not as
hard as it sounds.
Texture refers to the tactile nature of
a materials surface the way it feels,
or the way it looks like it feels. If youve
read the previous two columns on color
and line, youre probably getting the hang
of how this works. Different textures will
impact the way that we perceive a space:
soft and cushy surfaces seem warm and
inviting, glossy and sleek can denote
modernity and efficiency and rough
or natural might invoke a casual tone.
Texture includes fabric, but also materials
and finishes wood, metal, paint, glass,
lacquer, leather, and the like. Think about
the endless variations on wood alone:
polished, unfinished, salvaged, exotic,
antiqued or distressed.
As with anything else, its always
possible to have too much of a good thing.
Relying too heavily on lush textures
such as velvets and chenille can wind up
looking a bit well, heavy. An abundance
of glossy, man-made surfaces feels sterile
without a touch of the rough or natural.
92

Using contrasting textures in a space will

accentuate the differences between them,
and also give the eye a place to rest.
Pattern mixing has had a major
moment in fashion recently and the
principles are more or less the same in
interiors. The simplest rule to remember
is to maintain contrast between two
patterns so they can each stand alone.
Easy combinations include a floral
with a stripe, geometric with a figural,
or ethnic with an animal print. Scale
matters, too. In fashion, a smaller scale
print is generally more flattering on a
petite frame. In your space, a small chair
probably wont do justice to a pattern
with a large repeat, and a large piece can
be overwhelming in a small pattern.
Just one note for the pattern-fearless
fashionistas among us: no matter how
bold or funky your style and how
high-quality your materials, using all
printed cotton or linen fabrics will lack
sophistication and depth. Add a cut
velvet, jacquard or embroidery to take it
up a notch.
The sitting area by Christina
Murphy has a lot going on patternwise, but it manages to be bold without
overwhelming. The limited color palette is
part of this. Notice how the floor visually
melts into the walls and ceiling? The
mirrored chest in the corner is a clever

As an interior and furniture designer for Austin Home

Interiors, McNeill Shiner is always looking for new
ways to mix styles and influences to create spaces
that are uplifting, comfortable and very personal.

IMAGE by Wesley Moon

IMAGE by Christina Murphy

While George Costanza may thinks its

a good idea to drape himself in velvet,
the same is not true for your home

choice; reflecting the wallpaper adjacent to

it, the piece virtually disappears. Scalewise, the two largest expanses (walls and
floor) are in complete contrast to one
another, allowing the wallpaper to take
the lead. A small-scaled ticking stripe on
the chair, small tile pattern on the daybed
pillow, and medium ikat on the chair, the
source of the rooms color palette, round
out the pattern play.
If youre sticking to a neutral color
palette, pattern and especially texture
are your friends. Even calm, soothing
spaces need visual interest! Although
the Wesley Moon living room gives
the impression of effortlessness, the
designer thought carefully about how to
balance and layer textures. Wood, metal
(both polished and rough), glass, linen,
and velvet are all present. Even the
most pattern-phobic will acknowledge
that use of the element here is subtle
and balanced.
Ready to explore pattern and texture
in your own home? If youre nervous,
start with something small and lowcommitment. Experimenting with
pillows on your sofa is a great option
for this: its fairly inexpensive, easy
to change with your mood and can
showcase how different elements work
together. Youll be moving on to bigger
things in no time!

HI GHE R L E ARN ING

education Column

Crucial Beginnings
Defining excellence in Early Years Settings
Text by Kerry Perandis-Cole
A 2001 report from the Organisation
for Economic Co-operation and
Development (OECD) analyzed 12
industrialized countries Early Years
policies and service provisions and
concluded: Quality early experiences
promote childrens short-term cognitive,
social and emotional development along
with their long-term success in school
and later life.
Striving to do things right from the
beginnings of a childs education is
an investment in excellence and can
safeguard against social and financial
consequences resultant of poor education
later on.
At schools, child centeredness can
be a misleading term describing good
practice. Adult direction and didactic
teaching is common due to play and
activity schemas being developed
by teachers with children having
little control over regulating learning
opportunities authentically. Children
may be given some freedom by being
allowed to explore and make minor
choices within suggested and constructed
learning opportunities, but they are not
truly able to explore the potential of what
it means to be a genuine decision maker,
collaborator, mentor, teacher, advisor
and representative of their own critical
thinking.
Children should be respected as young
citizens having rights and needs and
the capability of making democratic
decisions about things which affect them
personally, such as friendships, meals,
social seating arrangements, the physical
environment and their own curriculum
content.

together to respond to, challenge and

extend ideas and knowledge.

demonstrate a respect for the learners and

the learning occurring.

An environment enabling children to be

leaders. Practices which cultivate personal
self-assuredness and competencies.
Evidence of children developing and
leading their own learning activities.

Well-appointed orderly, aesthetic,

logically arranged physical spaces with
evidence that children are able to access
materials and resources as needed and
where maintenance and routine tasks are
a shared responsibility.

Children as authentic decision makers

through consultations, meetings and
opportunities to review learning and inclass practice.
Children exposed to multi-modal ways
of communicating and expressing ideas
(beyond writing, drawing, role play and
constructing).
An environment where childrens
efforts, ideas and creativity are
invigorated.
Timetables allowing for uninterrupted
blocks of time so that ideas, learning and
possibilities are not hindered by
constraints and can evolve.
Learning environments that

Class displays describing pedagogical

values and rich records of learning
methods which children and teachers
review, revisit, reflect upon, add to and
recognise as a process.
Teachers who ask: What do you think?
How do you know? What made you
decide? How can you do this differently?
What problems did you encounter? And
many other open-ended questions which
incite thinking and teach children to
become deeper theorists for framing their
own questions.
Kerry Perandis-Cole is the Key
Stage Leader for Early Years and KS1 at
Renaissance International School Saigon
(www.renaissance.edu.vn).

Evidence of excellence in a school:

Teachers and children engaging in
learning processes together through
collective investigations of ideas and
concept development.
Children involved in short or longer
term project work in which children
themselves take a lead role in the focus
for learning, with their teachers adopting
a more facilitative role.
Children, whose ideas, skills and
interests are shared openly, explored
and utilized as personal motivators for
learning and teacher input.
Children and teachers working
93

The List

Education
international Schools

British International
School (BIS)

Deutsche Schule Ho Chi Minh City

International German School

Inspected and approved

by the British Government,
BIS provides a British
style curriculum for an international student body
from pre-school to Year 13. The school is staffed
by British qualified and trained teachers with recent
UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of
International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is
the largest international school in Vietnam.
An Phu Primary Campus
225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2
3744 4551
apprimary@bisvietnam.com
An Phu Secondary Campus
246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2
3744 2335
apsecondary@bisvietnam.com
Tu Xuong Primary Campus
43-45 Tu Xuong Street, D3
3932 0210
txprimary@bisvietnam.com
www.bisvietnam.com

Deutsche Schule (IGS) offers a

German curriculum from Early
Years to Grade 12 which is
approved and supported by the German government.
IGS is staffed by native German, Vietnamese and
English speakers who have many years of teaching
experience.
We offer a link between Vietnamese and German
culture, an international program with German
standards and the immersion of German
culture into everyday life.
12, Vo Truong Toan, An Phu
08 37 44 63 44
info@igs-hcmc.de
www.igs-hcmc.de

EUROPEAN International School

Ho Chi Minh City

The International School Ho Chi Minh

City (ISHCMC)

The EUROPEAN International School

Ho Chi Minh City is an IB World
School offering an academic and
supportive English language education
for students aged 2-18 years. EIS is committed to
educating students to become creative critical thinkers
and problem solvers. Students are immersed in a
multicultural learning environment which values
multilingualism. Language programmes at
EIS include Spanish, German, French
and Vietnamese.
730 Le Van Mien,
Thao Dien, District 2, HCMC
www.eishcmc.com

The most established school in Ho Chi

Minh City is celebrating 20 years of
success in 2013. ISHCMC is the only
school in HCMC with full accreditation to
teach all three IB programs to students
from 2 to 18. ISHCMC is fully accredited
by both the Council of International
Schools (CIS) and the New England Association
of School and Colleges (NEASC), two of the most
prestigious international accreditation organisations.
ISHCMC has 975 students from over 50
different nationalities enjoying recently
upgraded facilities.

Renaissance
International School
Saigon

ABC International School (ABCIS)

Inspected and judged an outstanding
school by British Government
Inspectors (October 2013), the ABCIS
is one of the few schools worldwide
awarded this Department for Education rating. Progress
of students puts the ABCIS among the top 8% of
schools in the world. Providing education for 2-18 year
olds in a supportive and friendly environment, it delivers
a culturally adapted version of the British National
Curriculum supported by Cambridge & AQA IGCSE and
AS/A levels. Students are prepared for Universities in
the UK, USA, Australia, Korea and Canada.
Enquiries and Admissions
Tel: 5431 1833/34/35/36
Email: office@theabcis.com
www.theabcis.com

94

28 Vo Truong Toan, D2
www.ishcmc.com

Renaissance is an
International British school providing an inclusive
curriculum based upon the British curriculum
complemented by the International Primary Curriculum
and International Baccalaureate. The school has
made a conscious decision to limit numbers and keep
class sizes small to ensure each student is offered an
education tailored to meet his or her individual learning
needs. It is a family school providing a stimulating and
secure learning environment with first-class facilities
including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool,
play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and
drama rooms, science labs and an allweather pitch.
74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7
3773 3171 ext 120/121/122
www.renaissance.edu.vn

Saigon Star
International School

The American School

of Vietnam

Saigon Star is a student

focused international
primary school offering high quality first class provision.
Specializing in the British National Curriculum, all of the
class teachers hold international teaching qualification.
In the early years program, a Montessori specialist
works closely with the main class teachers to ensure a
high rate of progress.
The school also provides specialists for
children requiring extra support with ESL.
Residential Area No.5,
Thanh My Loi Ward, D2
3742 STAR / 3742 7827
www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn

The American School of

Vietnam (TAS) is a young
school that has been granted
candidacy by the Western Association of Schools and
Colleges (WASC), representing 20 nationalities. TAS
provides an American-based curriculum with rigorous
performance standards and a variety of academic
offerings including Advanced Placement courses,
university credit courses through our partnership
with Missouri State University, and an Intensive ESL
Program for English Language Learners.
177A, 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong,
Thao Dien ward, D2, HCMC
www.theamericanschool.edu.vn
08 3519 2223 , 08 3519 2224
info@tasvietnam.edu.vn

Also...
American International School
Founded in 2006, American
International School (IS) is a private,
coeducational, university-preparatory
school for students from preschool to
grade 12. The language of instruction
is English. The school offers standard
American curriculum with a complement
of performing arts, visual arts, music and
sport programs.
Elementary School (102C Nguyen Van
Cu, D1)
Middle School (35 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
Thanh)
High School (781/C1-C2 Le Hong Phong,
D10)

APU International School

Operating since 2004, APU
International School is a private
coeducational international school
enrolling students from Kindergarten
to Grade 12. Instruction is conducted
in English, but there is an English
Language Development (ELD) program
available to students who require it. It
is currently a member of the College
Board, and is an official SAT testing site.

36 Thao Dien, D2
Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary,
Middle & Senior School)
East-West Highway, D2
3742 4040
www.aisvietnam.com

Canadian International School

Now in its fifth year of operation
with a student population of 700
students in grades K-12, CIS- VN has
received approval from the Ministry
of Education and Training in Vietnam
and the Department of Education and
Training in Ho Chi Minh City to accept
both Vietnamese nationals and expat
nationals. The schools language of
instruction is English.
No 86, Road 23, D7
www.cis.edu.vn

Canada Vietnam Kindergarten

According to the average age of each
class as well as the physiology and
psychology of each age, CVK has
deployed a curriculum that ensures the
balance between study and playtime,
Vietnamese and English learning.

Elementary (501 Lac Long Quan, D11)

Middle and High School (286 Lanh Binh
Thang, D11)
www.apu.edu.vn

Street 23, Tan Phu, D7

5412 3028
www.cvk.edu.vn

Australian International School (AIS)

Offers Central Board of Secondary

Education (CBSE), and the Global
Montessori Plus Program. The schools
Nine Gems model is a proprietary tool to
achieve a balance between academics
and experience, mental and physical
development, fine arts and performing
arts, language skills and creativity,
personality development, ethics and
entrepreneurship.

The Australian International School is

an IB World School with three world
class campuses in District 2, HCMC,
offering an international education from
kindergarten to senior school with the
IB Primary Years Programme (PYP),
Cambridge Secondary Programme
(including IGCSE) and IB Diploma
Programme (DP).
Xi Campus (Kindergarten)
190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2
Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten &
Primary School)
APSC Compound

Global Indian International School

primary, secondary and high school.

Classes are taught in English and
Vietnamese. Offers scholarships for
children who achieve excellence in
school.
6 - 6A - 8, Street 44, D2
5402 2482
www.hibs.vn

International School Saigon Pearl

ISSP is an elementary school for
children 2 to 11 years of age. Offers
an academically rigorous American
curriculum. The school has several
smartboards, projectors and an
independent IT suite that allows
students the opportunity to interact with
technology to enhance learning.
92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh
082227788
www.issp.edu.vn

Little Angels International Preschool

Offers nursery and kindergarten classes
and provides full-time or part-time
childcare and kindergarten services for
children 4 months through 5 years.
159/12 Hoang Van Thu, Phu Nhuan
3844 3719
www.little-angels.edu.vn

Montessori International School of

Vietnam
The school seeks to enable all its
pupils to achieve their fullest potential
by providing them with a nurturing
and stimulating environment, and by
being sensitive and responsive to
their individual needs. Their curriculum
is designed based on Montessori
methodology and practice, and is
enhanced with a variety of programs.

172 Nguyen Van Thu, D1

www.globalindianschool.org

42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2

3744 2639
www.montessori.edu.vn

Horizon International Bilingual School

Schools of North America

Offers curriculum for kindergarten,

Offers a dual curriculum - instructing

students in a Vietnamese program

directed by the Vietnam Ministry of
Education and Training (MOET) in
tandem with an American program
aligned with the State of California.
Students graduate after accumulating
248 credits which is equivalent to high
school graduates in the US.
Street 5A, Trung Son Residential Quarter,
Binh Chanh
402 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3
www.sna.edu.vn

Saigon South International School

Founded in 1997, Saigon South
International School seeks to
accommodate an increasing need
for American education for both local
residents and expatriate families.
SSIS enrolls over 850 students in Early
Childhood Grade 12 from over thirtythree countries in a spacious six-hectare,
well-equipped campus.
78 Nguyen Duc Canh, D7
www.ssis.edu.vn

Singapore International School at

Saigon South
Commenced operations in August
2008, The Singapore International
School at Saigon South (SIS @ SS) is
a purpose-built international school
campus that has a capacity of 625
students. It operates classes from
kindergarten to senior high school.
No 29, Road 3, Trung Son Residential Area,
Binh Chanh
www.saigonsouth.sis.edu.vn

Smartkids
Focuses on the holistic development
of the child and combines Montessori,
Steiner and Reggio Emilia philosophies
into its program. Also offers childcare for
young children until 6 years old.
1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2
3744 6076
www.smartkidsinfo.com

95

The List

Health & Beauty

dental

and Vietnam. The clinic regularly hosts

visiting dentists from many other
countries.
27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1
3825 748

spas
An Nam Spa
Dr. Hung & Associates Dental Center
A centrally located
dental center that uses
the latest modern
equipment with a team
of skilled specialists.
Services include cosmetic, implant,
braces, prosthodontics, pedodontics
and more. Expect high quality service
at a reasonable price.
Building 244A Cong Quynh, D1
08 3925 7526
08 3925 7527
nhakhoadrhung@gmail.com
www.drhung01.com

2000 Dental Clinic Trung Tam Implant

Established in 1999, 2000 Dental
Clinic now has 65 dentists serving
3 locations offering the full range of
dental care, including surgery, implants
and extractions.
125 Le Thi Rieng, D1

Elite Dental Group

Elite Dental is an international and
well-equipped clinic that provides
a wide range of dental services
including general dentistry, cosmetic
dentistry, Implant, pediatric dentistry
and orthodontics. Luxury design and
their dental experts will bring you an
extremely comfortable experience.
57A Tran Quoc Thao, D3

European Dental Clinic

Offering state of the art technology,
competitive pricing, and supreme
quality, this dentistry is truly dedicated
to their patients.
17-17A Le Van Mien, D2
www.europeandentalclinic-asia.com

German International Dentistry

German International Dentistry offers
excellent consultation services from
experienced, international dentists so
that you can make informed decisions
about your dental care.
1489 Nguyen Van Linh, D7

Saigon Smile
With a group of experienced doctors
and professional staff trained to do
teeth cleaning, dental work and other
teeth enhancing procedures.

Housed in a beautiful nine-story

building with different areas for
men and women, guests can enjoy
a panoramic view of Saigon while
calming their senses in a relaxing
sanctuary.
26-28 Dong Du, D1

Dermal Essentials
Dermalogica, a Los Angeles-based
company, is a revolutionary skin
treatment system. Call Dermalogicas
therapists for a complimentary Face
Mapping consultation.

Extremely central, Eden is located

in a quiet niche off Nguyen Hue in
the commercial center. Owing to its
expertise in skincare and first-class
relaxing atmosphere, Eden has the
gumption to claim a number-one spot
in the discerning Japanese market.
19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1
3821 3815

Flamingo Spa
Flamingo Spa is an authentic Thai spa
where all ingredients used are imported
from Thailand. Guests arrive in a clean
and friendly atmosphere for an optimal
relaxing experience. Men, women and
couples are welcome, and they offer a
wide range of massages along with a
sauna, jacuzzi facilities & VIP rooms.
13B Le Thanh Ton, D1
3822 1074
091 243 9601
FlamingoSpa.vn@gmail.com
Open 10:30 am to close 11:30pm

Huong Sen Spa

Located in a charming old French villa,
Huong Sen Spa is a natural green oasis
with skin, face, and body treatment
services.
21S Nguyen Van Troi, Ward 12, Phu Nhuan

Jasmine Spa
Experienced staff utilize exotic
skincare products to comfort guests
in this cozy urban sanctuary, which
has has a large, loyal following
that swears by its friendly and
professional service.
45 Ton That Thiep, D1

Quality dental care with whitening,

cleaning, and orthodontic services.
Japanese equipment and techniques.
173 Ton Dat Tien, D7

Starlight Dental Clinic

Westcoast International Dental Clinic

Large, international team of dentists
and support staff from Canada,
Australia, Japan, France, Italy, Thailand,

96

1st Floor, 47 Dong Khoi, D1

1st floor, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Tan Phu, D7

5413 6638

La Maison de LApothiquaire
This unique spa is situated in an
artfully-designed villa and offers
guests many therapeutic body and
skin treatments. The luxurious villa
also provides a yoga studio, enclosed
garden, and many exclusive skin care
products.

Kyoto Spa, Hair & Gel Nails Salon

Body massage
Foot massage
Hair cut women and men
32 Dong Du, Ben Nghe Ward, D1
(Spa & Hair Salon)
8A/4D1 Thai Van Lung,
Ben Nghe Ward, D1 (Spa)
0902 983 089
loan_royal@gmail.com
www.spakyotohcmc.com.vn

Recommended inexpensive spa

treatments with a full spa menu.

Sense Spa

Sense Spa is a massage, skin, and body

care haven with a plethora of high-end
imported creams, lotions, and serums.
54 Dong Du, D1

64A Truong Dinh, D3

100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1
1st floor, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Tan Phu, D7

SiLK Waxworks

Eden Spa

Smile Dental Center

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3

Saigon Spa

This Japanese/French style spa is an

exclusive distributor of organic French
skin care products, and other exclusive
products from around the world.

108 Pasteur, D1

96 Tran Nao, D2
6674 4255
8am to 8pm

Award-winning quality care and

personal service in clean premises,
offering general dentistry, whitening
and cosmetic surgery, implants,
orthodontics, pediatric, and preventive
dentistry.

LApothiquaire - Saigon South

Maison Mikio Boutique Salon

District 7s Premium Boutique Salon.

Two floors providing full beauty
services nestled in a quiet residential
area in Phu My Hungs Garden Plaza
2 Complex. Equipped with a caf,
nail bar, 2 VIP rooms, and a spacious
massage room - this boutique salon is
like no other in Ho Chi Minh City.
Garden Plaza 2 Complex
8 Tn Dt Tin, Qun 7
5412 4773

MiMi Clinic & Spa

Prestige Spa for celebrities holding
frequent beauty events and therefore
one of the best-known local brands in
medical aesthetics for over 10 years in
HCMC.
32 Dong Khoi, D1
090 387 6666

Miu Miu
Spa with an elegant and charming
dcor, offering facials, body
massages, and manicures. Pervaded
by exotic oils and aromas, the staff
provide counsel on unique skin-care
products from Thailand and around
the world in English, Vietnamese,
and Japanese.
4 Chu Manh Trinh, D1

Moc Huong Spa

Moc Huong Spa

is supported
by top-ranking
professional
physiotherapists
who combine Eastern with Western
techniques resulting a full body
wellness. Reasonably priced with a
wide range of services that include
manicure, pedicure, facial, both body
and for your complete well being.
9C Ton Duc Thang, D1
3911 7118

Nano Nature Spa

The spa is a partner of many different
cosmetics corporations based in
France and the US. Modern facilities are
airy with advanced equipment in the
industry.
140 - 142 Pasteur D1
3822 4130 - 382204132
097 219 6969

Located right in the

heart of District 2, SiLK
is a concept boutique that specializes
only in waxing services for both
men and women. Their waxperts are
trained in hygiene, speed and quality
to clear a path of silky, smooth and
sleek adventures for your hoochie
and coochie. Owing to its expertise in
waxing, SiLK are your go-to for highgrade hair removal.
88 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien Ward, D2
http://www.silkwaxworks.com
08 3519 1588

Spa InterContinental

Spa InterContinental is a
contemporary spa that has two
double and five single treatment
rooms, each with a private bathroom,
a foot reflexology area, and luxurious
changing and shower rooms.
Combining the fresh, local traditional
herbs and plants, an ambient lighting,
soft scents and soothing sounds with
the best of international brands, Spa
InterContinental offers guests the
professional spa expertise and a truly
sensory experience.
3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon
Corner Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1
3520 9999
spa@icasianasaigon.com
8am 9:30pm

The Prime Spa For Men

American skin treatments for men

from top brands such as Dermalogica
and Lab Series. Equipped with
imported machines from Europe.
The spa has five therapy services,
including basic skin care, professional
skin care, intensive therapy, eye
therapy, body therapy and a Prime
special service package.
192 Le Lai, D1

Tri Siam

Well-respected salon on the edge of

town, offering manicures & styling.
76C Hai Ba Trung, D1

Xuan Spa

One of the most luxurious spas in Ho

Chi Minh City, Xuan is located inside
the five-star Park Hyatt hotel. Services
include packages such as Urban Retreat
Package, Apricot blossom Mai,
Bamboo, and more.
2 Lam Son Square, D1

Yuri

A full-range Korean beauty salon in the

Lotte complex, with a chief focus on
beautiful hair styling.
3rd floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu
Tho, D7
3775 2990; 093 481 8085

a re you a mem b er?

For more Vietnamese Wife, Western Husband Club cartoons, visit www.vwwhc.blogspot.com
97

Faces & Places

98

The Travel Bug

Model Behavior

Mickeys in Town

The International Travel Expo is the

largest travel expo in Southeast Asia
and has been held every year for
the last 10 years. This years expo
was a collaborated effort between
Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar
and Thailand.

The winner was announced for the

Elite Model Look Vietnam 2014. She
will compete with other candidates
from all over the world in the
International Elite Model Look this
November in Paris.

For the first time in history, the Disney Live!

Show came to Vietnam. AIS was proud
to host a visit from the Disney characters
who came and met the AIS Primary School
children at the Sports Center. A small group
of 40 AIS students also participated in a
Disney Bike Safety course to make them
better and safer riders.

Images by Ngoc Tran

Images by Neil Featherstone

Images by NGOC TRAN

Why we love
out of the box
Energized Engaged Empowered

thinking

Because at ISHCMC we
understand that out of the box
thinking leads to originality and
innovation.
Todays students need to do more
than memorize information in
traditional classrooms. They need a
more evolved approach to education
that allows them the freedom to
pursue their passions fearlessly. In
addition to a strong academic
foundation, they need opportunities
to be creative, innovative and
analytical, all of which lie at the heart
of the ISHCMC philosophy.

Come and see

the difference we can make
in your childs life.

28 Vo Truong Toan, District 2

Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Tel: +84 (8) 3898-9100
Email: admissions@ishcmc.edu.vn
www.ishcmc.com

Nozomi & Thijmen, Early Explorers

ISHCMC Students

TRUONG NGUYEN
THAO NGUYEN

DEPAUL UNIVERSITY - $56,000 USD

DREXEL UNIVERSITY - $75,000 USD
LOYOLA UNIVERSITY CHICAGO
- $60,000 USD

ROGER WILLIAMS UNIVERSITY

- $64,000 USD

SUNY GENESEO - $64,000 USD

TRINH NGOC HIEU

UNIVERSITY OF LA VERNE
- $60,000 USD

UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI

- KANSAS CITY (UMKC) - $76,000 USD

LE NGOC TRUYEN
UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA

NGUYEN NGOC XUAN

ROGER WILLIAMS UNIVERSITY
- $120,000 USD

- $20,000 USD
UNIVERSITY OF NORTH FLORIDA
- $56,000 USD

UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI
- KANSAS CITY (UMKC) - $68,000 USD

APU International School

ENROLLING NOW
2014 - 2015
AMERICAN CURRICULUM K-12
Every year, APU graduates received over 2.5 million
USD in scholarship from well-established World and US
universities.
85% of APU Graduates make the Deans List at
well-established US universities.
80% of APU Faculty hold Master and Ph.D. Degrees from
well-established universities in US and the World.
100% of parents surveyed say they are condent APU
enables their children to lead a fullling intellectual,
personal and professional life in the future.

NGUYEN VAN QUOC CUONG

FLORIDA INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY
- $64,000 USD

LE MAU QUAN

SUNY PLATTSBURGH - $64,000 USD

VALEDICTORIAN 2014 - HO HOANG DUY

UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI - KANSAS CITY (UMKC) - $76,000 USD
UNIVERSITY OF DENVER - $68,000 USD
SPRING HILL COLLEGE - $96,000 USD

BENNER DAVID TAYLOR

THE AMERICAN UNIVERSITY

OF VIETNAM (AUV) - $30,000 USD

LUC KHAI AN
UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI

- KANSAS CITY (UMKC) - $76,000 USD

Other APU graduates have also been awarded scholarships from University of Washington, UCLA, UT Austin, Pennsylvania State University,
Drexel University, Seattle University, University of Minnesota, University of Denver, Columbia University, Niagara University, and other
well-established Universities in the US.

APU International School

286 Lanh Binh Thang St., Ward 11, District 11, HCMC
Tel: (84-8) 3962 4897 - 3962 4898 | HOTLINE: 0939 886 286 | Fax: (84-8) 3962 4899 | www.apu.edu.vn - info@apu.edu.vn