LEYBOLD

Mechanics Physics
Wave theory Leaflets P1.6.4.1
Propagation of water waves

Generating circular
and straight water waves

Objects of the experiment

Excitation of circular water waves with the point-type wave exciter.
Excitation of straight water waves with the exciter for straight waves.
Observing the water motion in a wave and comparison with the propagation of the wave.
Measuring the wavelength of a water wave for various excitation frequencies f and calculating the wave velocity v.
Measuring the propagation velocity vgr of a wave packet.

Principles
Relationships which are true for all waves can be demonstrated energy transport, wave velocity and velocity of propagation,
particularly clearly using water waves, as here the phenomena straight or planar waves and circular or spherical waves.
can be observed with the naked eye, and can be considered as The water waves are generated in a wave trough filled with
occurring in a two-dimensional manner. Thus, it is easy to water; the bottom of the trough consists of a glass pane. To
illustrate and explain fundamental concepts of wave propagation generate waves, the oscillations of a membrane, which are
such as wave front, direction of propagation, wave packet, generated in the supply unit by variations in air pressure, are
transmitted to the surface of the water via wave exciters.
If the beam from a point-type lamp is shone through the wave
trough, the wave crests act as collecting lenses to create bright
lines on the observation screen; the wave troughs act as dis-
persing lenses to cause dark lines. To display a stationary wave
image, a stroboscopic lamp is synchronized with the frequency
generator for the exciter membrane.
0606-Brn

Fig. 1 Propagation of water waves (photographs)

Top: circular waves
Bottom: straight waves

1
P1.6.4.1 LEYBOLD Physics Leaflets

c) Observing the motion of water in a wave and compari-

son with the propagation of the wave:
Apparatus
Switch off the stroboscope; if necessary, rotate the strobo-
1 Wave trough with motor stroboscope . . . 401 501 scope disk out of the beam path.
1 Stopclock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . e.g. 311 031
Drop in a few Styrofoam balls or scraps of paper at different
1 Ruler or tape measure . . . . . . . . . e.g. 311 77
excitation frequencies, observe their position and compare
additionally required: this with the propagation of the wave.
Dish soap,
d) Measuring the wavelength for various excitation fre-
millimeter-sized Styrofoam balls or scraps of paper
quencies f and calculating the wave velocity v:
Switch on the stroboscope and generate a stationary wave
image by synchronizing the system.
Measure the distance between two wave fronts on the
observation screen (g). Be sure to take the image scale into
consideration to determine the actual wavelength (see In-
struction Sheet for wave trough).
Setup Set different excitation frequencies between 10 Hz and
Set up the experiment as shown in Fig. 2. 80 Hz and measure the wave images as described above.
Set up the wave trough so that it is not subject to shocks and Using the measured values for the wavelength and the set
vibrations; observe all information given in the Instruction frequency values, calculate the wave velocity (v = f ) for
Sheet. each value pair.
e) Measuring the propagation velocity vgr of a wave
Carrying out the experiment packet:

a) Generating circular waves: To measure the propagation velocity vgr, place a cover slide
on the glass plate 20 cm from the wave exciter as a marker.
Connect a point-type exciter for circular waves as shown in
Fig. 3. If necessary, rotate the stroboscope disk out of the beam
path and turn the amplitude knob (d) all the way to the left.
Using knob (e), set a frequency of approx. 20 Hz, and Make sure that the wave exciter just touches the surface of
carefully increase the excitation amplitude using knob (d) the water over its entire length, and the generated wave
until wave fronts are clearly visible (see Instruction Sheet for fronts are still clearly visible at the marker.
wave trough).
Actuate the stopclock and the pushbutton (c) for generating
If necessary, rotate the stroboscope disk out of the beam single wave simultaneously.
path using knurled screw (f) so that the glass pane in the
bottom of the wave trough is completely illuminated. Measure the time t which the wave packet requires to travel
the marked distance s, and calculate the propagation veloc-
Vary the immersion depth as necessary with adjusting screw ity.
(h1).
To observe stationary wave images, switch on the strobo-
scope with switch (a); after a short warm-up time, you may
need to carry out a fine adjustment of the excitation and Measuring example and evaluation
stroboscope frequencies using knob (b) until a stationary
wave image appears.
Fig. 1 shows two photographs with measurement examples.
Set different excitation frequencies between 10 Hz and
80 Hz and observe the wave images. Readjust the synchro-
nization and amplitude each time as necessary. Table 1: Wavelength and wave velocity v of water waves as a
function of excitation frequency f
b) Generating straight waves:
f v
Connect the exciter for straight waves as shown in Fig. 4.
Hz cm cm s 1
Using knob (e), set a frequency of approx. 20 Hz, and
carefully increase the excitation amplitude until wave fronts 10 2.1 21
are clearly visible (see Instruction Sheet for wave trough). 20 1.1 22
If necessary, rotate the stroboscope disk out of the beam 30 0.8 24
path so that the glass pane in the bottom of the wave trough 40 0.6 24
is completely illuminated. 50 0.4 20
60 0.4 24
Vary the immersion depth as necessary with adjusting screw 70 0.3 21
(h2). 80 0.3 24
To observe stationary wave images, switch on the strobo-
scope; after a short warm-up time, you may need to carry
Table 2: Propagation velocity of a wave packet
out a fine adjustment of the excitation and stroboscope
frequencies until a stationary wave image appears. s t v gr
Set different excitation frequencies between 10 Hz and cm s cm s 1
80 Hz and observe the wave images. If necessary, readjust
20 1 20
the synchronization and amplitude each time.
2
LEYBOLD Physics Leaflets P1.6.4.1

f h1

a b c d e

ON 40
30
20
50
60
70
h2
10 80
OFF
STROBOSCOPE

401501

Fig. 2 Experiment setup (for exciting circular waves Additional information

a Stroboscope switch
b Knob (for fine adjustment of stroboscope frequency) In the case of water waves, the recoiling force on an oscillating
c Pushbutton (single-wave excitation) (or better, orbiting) water particle is determined by its weight and
d Knob (for adjusting amplitude of wave excitation) by the surface tension. The wave (or phase) velocity v is a
e Knob (for adjusting frequency of wave excitation) function of the wavelength :
f Knurled screw (for manually turning stroboscope disk)
g Observation screen 2
v = g + (I).
2
Fig. 3 Connecting a point-type exciter for circular waves (g: gravitational acceleration, : surface tension, : density)
h1 Adjusting screw (for setting immersion depth)
Above = 1.7 cm, the proportion due to weight predominates,
and we speak of gravity waves. Here, the wave velocity in-
Fig. 4 Connecting the exciter for straight waves
creases with the wavelength. Below = 1.7 cm, the surface
h2 Adjusting screw (for setting immersion depth)
tension predominates, and we speak of ripples. Here, the wave
velocity decreases with the wavelength.
Due to the dispersion described above, the phase velocity v and
the group (or propagation) velocity vgr differ. However, in the
range around = 1.7 studied here, the dispersion is so slight
that we can assume the phase and group velocities as being
approximately equal.
Strictly speaking, equation (I) applies only for water of a sufficient
depth. In shallow water with the depth h the velocity of the gravity
waves is
Results
g FG
2 h IJ
Waves generated with a point-type exciter propagate radially in
circular wave fronts.
v =
2
tanh
H K (II).

Waves which are generated with a straight exciter propagate in

a straight line; the wave fronts are perpendicular to the direction
of propagation.
The amplitude decreases continuously due to attenuation. The
wave image loses contrast as the distance from the exciter
increases.
In wave propagation, the water is not transported; it is only made
to oscillate. The energy of the oscillation is transported.
In the frequency range between 10-80 Hz the wavelength de-
creases as the frequency increases.
Within the given measuring accuracy, the propagation velocity
vgr of a wave packet here agrees with the wave propagation
velocity calculated from the frequency and wavelength.

LEYBOLD DIDACTIC GMBH Leyboldstrasse 1 D-50354 Hrth Phone (02233) 604-0 Telefax (02233) 604-222 e-mail: info@leybold-didactic.de
by Leybold Didactic GmbH Printed in the Federal Republic of Germany
Technical alterations reserved