Baron Pineda
Baron Pineda
Baron Pineda
Shipwrecked
Identities
?
Navigating Race on
Nicaragua’s Mo squito
Coast
Baron L. Pineda
The Setting
Conclusion
Notes
Bibliography
Index
vii
Shipwrecked Identities
Chapte r 1
The Setting
1
2 Shipwrecked Identities
If the Indians [of the Pacific] have a little piece of land, they plant
green peppers, onions, tomatoes . . . everything . . . but here the
damn Moscos are lazy. They just plant their cassava and banana and
then sit back in their hammock, real easy. They just cultivate in
order to live and as long as they are eating, they don’t worry about
getting ahead . . . no progress. In the Pacific they plant corn, beans
and bust their asses taking care of the crops . . . they will walk ten
kilometers to get water. Every day there they are cleaning and tak-
ing care of the crops, but for the Moscos from here that is too much
work to do. They don’t want to grow corn, the damn Moscos,
because they are lazy.
Creoles emerged at the western edge of the Caribbean Sea on the shores
of the Spanish Main in what is today Nicaragua and Honduras.6 Strad-
dling this boundary between land and water, Central American isthmus
and Caribbean Sea, Spanish colonies and English colonies, the inhabi-
tants of the region relatively successfully charted an independent course
that spared them much of the human devastation wrought on their
neighbors by European rule.
Over time a unique and distinctive society emerged on the Mos-
quito Coast that was composed of the many fragments that were brought
by sea to the lagoons and beaches of this tropical coastal plain. Outsiders,
such as pirates, scholars, fisherman, merchants, revolutionaries, drug
smugglers, Cuban counterrevolutionaries (briefly), American Indian
Movement activists, diplomats, and capitalists have been attracted to the
region by its natural resources and geographic and geopolitical position.
In the course of history these and other visitors, as well as the local
people, have debated and contested the African, Indian, and European
constitution of Nicaragua’s Costeños.
For example, in the colonial period the English crowned a Mos-
quito King with a sworn allegiance to Great Britain in an attempt to
strengthen their political and economic foothold on the Spanish Main.
Spain, and later Nicaragua and the United States, opposed English pres-
ence in the area and contested the legitimacy of the Mosquito monar-
chy on the grounds that its people were Black Africans and therefore
lacked grounds for a claim to self rule (Olien 1985). More recently, dur-
ing the Contra War when Ronald Reagan famously declared himself a
Miskito Indian, Costeño leaders and their US allies invoked Miskito
indigeneity, in specific and distinct ways, as justification for their
opposition to the revolutionary nationalist programs of the Sandinista
government.7
As illustrated in the case of Pacific-Atlantic rivalry articulated by my
informant Don Paco Mendez, Costeños in their everyday affairs form
and contest ideas about Indianness and Blackness in regionally specific
ways that are rooted in Nicaragua’s geography, history, and political
economy. These instances are among many moments in the history of
the Mosquito Coast in which racial and ethnic identification has been
navigated in fascinating, complex, and changing ways. This book tells
the story of these voyages.
The Setting 7
social structure that has been shaped historically by unique political and
economic forces. Following a chronological framework that begins with
the pre-Columbian period and ends in the aftermath of the Contra War,
each chapter chronicles the construction of group identity (particularly
as it relates to Blackness and Indianness) in the Mosquito Coast. The
scholarship of the region relies on an analytical framework that invests
socio-racial categories with a degree of fixity and cultural content that
in my opinion obscures the pan-regional culture that I describe. I
employ a Barthian approach to ethnic identity that heeds his call to ana-
lytically separate the boundaries of social groups from their presumed
content (Barth 1969). The analysis developed here provides an alter-
native to other approaches that have tended to reify the socio-racial
categories of the region.
I interrogate some of the main assumptions of the dominant per-
spective by providing an ethnographically grounded case study of the
way in which ideologies of race work in Puerto Cabezas after the Rev-
olution. Whereas other analysts have focused on so-called cultural and
ethnic factors in explaining the conflict in the region and the rise of the
Miskito Indian movement, the analysis developed in this book focuses
on the interplay between the practice of racial self-identification and key
regionally grounded political-economic shifts that occurred in the
1980s. Although this book lays a foundation for a more accurate general
understanding of the nature of the recent crisis, the conclusions given
here are grounded in ethnographic examples taken from a specific time
and place: Puerto Cabezas in the 1990s, a city that had a unique revolu-
tionary history.
This understanding, in turn, provides insight into the historical and
modern conflicts that have arisen and which have been attributed to the
racial heterogeneity of the region. The case that I make here relies on
the assumption that an intensive ethnographic study of Puerto Cabezas
that focuses on the racial ideologies and vocabularies of difference
employed by ordinary Costeños and Spaniards can provide insight into
the causes and meanings of political turmoil and social movements in the
region. In the chapters that follow, I reveal the intersection of regional
culture (one that exists in explicit contradistinction to the Pacific half of
Nicaragua) with ideologies of racial, cultural, and linguistic difference in
Puerto Cabezas.
12 Shipwrecked Identities
The Fi e l d Si te
Puerto Cabezas rose to regional importance in the early twentieth
century when it became the regional headquarters for the Standard Fruit
Company and a series of US lumber companies. These companies con-
structed railroads and a large pier, transforming the small village into the
most important port north of Bluefields on Nicaragua’s Atlantic Coast.
The size and importance of the city has waxed and waned in tune with
the boom-and-bust cycles in coastal industries such as banana, rubber,
lumber, and mining.
The population of the Atlantic Coast in general, however, has
increased at a very rapid pace since the 1950s, when both spontaneous
and governmentally planned migration from the Pacific region caused
the eastward spread of what the government in Managua viewed as the
agricultural frontier. From 1963 to 1973 the population of the Depart-
ment of Zelaya, which constituted what is now the Northern and
Southern Autonomous Regions (known locally as la RAAN and la
RAAS), almost doubled, growing from 87,823 to 157,484 (Ministerio
de Economía 1963, 1973). By 1985 the population of the Atlantic Coast
region had doubled again, reaching 325,454 (Instituto Nacional de
Estadisticas y Censos 1985). Census projections by the Nicaraguan gov-
ernment estimate that the 2005 population of the Atlantic Coast region
was 630,000. The population increase was compounded in Puerto
Cabezas in the 1980s by the Contra War, which caused the evacuation
of almost the entire eastern border region between Nicaragua and
Honduras. Many Costeño refugees, displaced from their homes along
the Rio Coco, relocated to Puerto Cabezas. The population of the city,
according to some estimates, quadrupled after 1980 (Norwood 1987,
210), reaching 25,000 inhabitants by 1985.
Census projections for 2005 estimate that Puerto Cabezas now has
about 34,000 inhabitants. According to Norwood the ethnic composi-
tion of the city in 1985 was as follows: Miskitu, 50 percent; Mestizo, 30
percent; and Creole, 10 percent. The remaining 10 percent was divided
between Sumus, foreigners, and Chinese-Nicaraguans (Norwood 1987,
211). Although the Nicaraguan census does not include data on race and
20 Shipwrecked Identities
ethnicity, it appears that this general distribution has persisted over the
last twenty years.
A remarkable amount of bi- and tri-lingualism exists in the region.
In a linguistic survey conducted by Norwood in Puerto Cabezas in
1985, she found that 70 percent of Miskito identified themselves as
either bi- or tri-lingual, a figure surpassed by the Creoles, 95 percent of
whom spoke, in addition to English, either Spanish, Miskitu, or both.
Zero percent of recently immigrated Mestizos spoke another language,
while only a quarter of Costeño Mestizos were multilingual (Norwood
1987, 217).
Although residential racial segregation in Puerto Cabezas is not
stark, there do exist neighborhoods that are generally perceived to have
an ethnic character, such as the Creole neighborhood of El Muelle, the
Miskitu neighborhood of El Cocal, and the Spaniard neighborhood
of La Revolución. Rapidly constructed neighborhoods, built by Coco
River refugees, sprung up in the late 1980s. The infrastructure of the city
has not been able to keep pace with this growth, leaving many houses
without running water or electricity. Mired in extreme poverty despite
the abundant human and natural resources of the region, Porteños
continue to wait anxiously for their fortunes to change.
Chapte r 2
21
22 Shipwrecked Identities
large number of large, slow rivers that, before flowing into brackish
lagoons, swamps and deltas, commonly spill over into vast floodplains.
Beyond the coast, the shallow marine shelf (also the largest forma-
tion of its kind in Central America) extends as far as 100 kilometers into
the western Caribbean, providing ideal feeding conditions (in the form
of underwater marine pastures known as turtle banks) for marine life—
particularly sea turtles (Nietschmann 1973, 92). Along the marine shelf
lie a veritable swarm of thousands of small banks, cays, and reefs (a geo-
graphical feature that was immediately taken note of by the seafaring
English, who called them the Mosquito keys).
A great diversity of flora and fauna abound in the region, but, as is
common to most tropical rain forests, the underlying soils are leached by
heavy rainfalls and are of very poor quality (P. Sanchez 1976; Newson
1987, 47).3 With the exception of riverbanks, which are made fertile by
yearly deposits of silt, the region’s soils are more apt for swidden agri-
culture than extensive agriculture.
Primarily as a result of these marked geographical differences, the
inhabitants of these different regions practiced different productive
strategies. Natives of the Pacific Lowlands engaged in extensive maize
agriculture that was supplemented by hunting, fishing, and gathering.
This agriculture sustained upward of one million people in a relatively
small area (Newson 1987, 88). Cacao was used as a medium of exchange
in the busy markets (tianguez) of the region in which a wide variety of
manufactured goods were traded, including cotton textiles, rope, pot-
tery, basketry, and gold and silver ornaments, as well as tools and
weapons of stone, wood, and obsidian (Moscoso 1991, 80; Newson
1987, 49–56). Pacific societies manifested a significant degree of social
stratification in which caciques sat at the top of a hierarchical system of
nobles, commoners, and slaves.4 A powerful and educated clergy prac-
ticed an elaborate ritual calendar (which included human sacrifice and
self-mutilation—practices associated with their Central Mexican ances-
tors and neighbors) at large manmade temples.
In contrast to the Pacific regions, the Caribbean Coastal Plain was
peopled by native groups that used less-elaborate technology, had a lesser
degree of social stratification, cultivated different major crops, and lived
in settlements that were often seasonal and were absent of elaborate per-
manent structures. Inhabitants of the Caribbean Coastal Plain mixed
Nicaragua’s Two Coasts 23
To groups who could not speak Nahua, the Nahua applied con-
temptuous epithets that have remained to serve as their official des-
ignations to this day—epithets such as chontal (“foreigner”), popoluca
or popoloca (“unintelligible”), totonac (“rustic”). Thus we find today
linguistically quite unrelated groups like Chontal (in Tabasco and
Oaxaca), Popoluca (in Puebla, Veracruz, and Guatemala), Totonac
(in Veracruz, but also in sixteenth-century Spanish reports from
Jalisco and Oaxaca), to the confusion of the investigator. Nahua
names have also become the standard designations of other popula-
tions, such as the Mixtec (from mixtlán, “cloud land”), the Zapotec
(after the zapote tree, Achras Zapota), and the Otomí (apparently
from Nahuatl totomitl, “man who wings birds with arrows”). The
Mixtec call themselves ñusabi; the Zapotec, di’z^, with a suffix
26 Shipwrecked Identities
In the case of Nicaragua, the Nicarao used the blanket term Chon-
tal (foreigner) to refer to those groups that did not speak a related
language and lived to the east in the area now known as the Central
Highlands and the Mosquito Coast.10 Just as the Mixtec, Zapotec, and
Otomi had a variety of names to refer to themselves, undoubtedly so did
the indigenous inhabitants of these regions have their own vocabularies
of self-reference. However, the Spanish did not generally recognize these
terms during the early colonial period.
Not only did Nahua-speaking Pacific groups use value-laden terms
in their labeling of their eastern Nicaraguan indigenous neighbors, but
they also seem to have looked down at these groups as inferior. This
posture was noticed by the Spanish, who in turn adopted both the ref-
erential terms used as well as a similar attitude with regard to eastern
Nicaraguan native groups. Ironically, these were precisely the Indians
whom the Spanish found themselves unable or unwilling to subdue,
notwithstanding their alleged inferiority (Newson 1987, 37). Antonio
Vázquez de Espinosa, a sixteenth-century Spanish chronicler, noted that
Pacific coastal Indians manifested this perspective towards the Indians of
the eastern provinces when he wrote, “The Indians of those provinces
are particularly rustic to the degree that when others [Indians] want
to insult someone, they call that person a Chontal—which is a way of
calling someone an idiot” (Incer 1990, 250). The Spanish chronicler
Fernandez de Oviedo, writing in 1528, described the “chondales” as
“villainous people who live in the mountains or in the foothills”
(Guerrero and Guerrero 1982, 18). Another Spanish historian, Father
Franciso López de Gómara, described the Chontal language as “grocero y
serrano” (coarse and boorish) (18). In addition to Chontal, the Spanish
also adopted the Nahua terms Popoluca (unintelligible or stuttering),
Xicaque (wild), Lenca, and Caribe as generic terms to refer to the natives
that plagued the eastern and northern fringes of their Nahua-speaking
strongholds (Incer 1990, 258).11
On his fourth voyage to the New World in 1502, many years before
the Spanish invaded and occupied the Pacific Coast, Columbus visited
what is now the Mosquito Coast of Nicaragua and Honduras. The name
Nicaragua’s Two Coasts 27
that he gave to the region, Costa de Orejas (Coast of Ears—from the ear
elongation practiced by the region’s inhabitants), did not enter into
widespread use (Conzemius 1932, 29; Potthast 1988, 15). Rather, the
Spanish borrowed two terms used by the Aztecs to refer to this region:
Taguzgalpa (place of gold) and Tologalpa (place of tule). Although
Taguzgalpa was often used to refer to both of these unconquered
“provinces” (to use the ambitious term of the Spanish), it specifically
referred to the area delineated by the Coco River, which emptied at
Cape Gracias a Dios, and the Aguán river east of the modern Honduran
city of Trujillo (Incer 1990, 255). Tologalpa referred to the area between
the Coco River and the San Juan River that, not coincidentally,
corresponds with the modern limits of the Nicaraguan Atlantic Coast.
According to Vázquez de Espinosa, the Aztecs manifested a sustained
interest in Taguzgalpa, “. . . where many mexican indians live . . . who
owing to the richness of the place were sent every year by Montezuma
to collect tribute in the form of gold and other precious items” (Incer
1990, 248). The Aztecs referred to the Indians of Taguzgalpa (the tribute-
paying regions actually seem to have been located primarily in what is
now southeastern Honduras) as Jicaques. Later the Spanish adopted this
term to refer to the “unfaithful Indians” (indios infieles) of Taguzgalpa
and used the term Chontal to refer to the equally unfaithful Indians of
Tologalpa, although the distinction, inconsistently applied, was most
definitely one of a geographical rather than sociological nature (ibid.,
265). Twentieth-century ethnology continues to use the terms Jicaque
and Lenca to distinguish Indians of eastern Honduras from their
Nicaraguan counterparts across the border (see Kirchoff 1948, 219).
Although the Aztecs began to draw Taguzgalpa into the far reaches
of their empire, they did not exercise colonial control over the indige-
nous groups of the region. However, they left tribute-collecting and trad-
ing colonies in Taguzgalpa. Although the Spanish area of control slowly
intruded eastward into the Pacific slope of the Central Highlands, the
sixteenth-century Spanish attempts to conquer Taguzgalpa, which took
the form of three separate armed expeditions, all failed as so-called
Jicaques and Caribes attacked and destroyed the Spanish garrisons and
mining camps established in remote Atlantic Coast areas (Incer 1990, 252).
In the seventeenth century the Spanish then turned to the Franciscan
order to subjugate the indomitable Indians of the region. Nahuatl was
28 Shipwrecked Identities
The names of the known nations, many of which are mutually hos-
tile from one family [“agnación”] or tribe to another, are these: lencas,
tahuas, alhatuinas, xicaques, mexicanos, payas, jaras, taupanes, taos, fan-
tasmas, gualas, alaucas, aguncualcas, yguyales, cujes, bocayes, tomayes,
bucataguacas, quimacas, panamakas, itziles, guayaes, motucas, barucas, apz-
inas, nanaicas and many others; and it is known among these as well
as others there are many whites and blonds, others more or less black
according to the mixtures of nations and foreign peoples [referring
to pirates and merchants] that come to this land to mate and trade
trinkets and machetes for provisions and very good gold nuggets that
are taken from the rivers. (Incer 1990, 256)
The segmentary nature of Atlantic Coast social groupings, com-
bined with the remoteness of the region and the hostility of its inhabi-
tants, made the Franciscans’ task extremely difficult. Unlike supposedly
more advanced areas where Europeans used the institutional authority of
high-level indigenous leaders, the Franciscans found no accurate way to
identify Indian groups, let alone their leaders. “Without law nor king
they roam around in herds like wild beasts,” lamented Francisco Vázquez
(ibid., 258).
Although the Franciscans achieved considerable success in setting up
reducciones among the Nahuatl-speaking Mexicans in Taguzgalpa, these
settlements were subject to constant attack by other groups (Stone 1964,
214). When they did succeed in attracting Taguzgalpan people to their
Nicaragua’s Two Coasts 29
north of the Coco River, and Chontal and Caribe for groups south of the
Coco River.14 At the most specific level, a large number of ethnonyms
(names of human groups) came into limited use that were often applied
to natives who inhabited specific sections of the major Atlantic-flowing
rivers of the region; hence native groups tended to be identified with
specific river valleys (Incer 1990, 255). For example, colonial sources
mention the following “nations” among the inhabitants of Taguzgalpa
(in what is now the eastern slope of the Nicaraguan Segovias): the
Bocayes of the Bocay River; the Tomayes of the Tuma River; the
Bucataguacas (or Taguacas) of the Butuk/Patuka River; the Taupanes of
the Waspuk River; the Nanaicas and Guayaes of the Pantasma River; and
the Tahuas or Taguacas of the upper Coco River, as well as the Jaras,
Quimacas, Iguyales, Cujes, and Alaucas of the Olancho River valley (Incer
1990, 257). These are a few of the wide variety of names that appear in
the Spanish colonial documents that refer to Taguzgalpan Indians.
This practice of identifying and naming indigenous groups accord-
ing to river valleys stood in contrast to the Pacific, where groups were
most frequently identified and named according to the name of a par-
ticular cacique (chief). This difference in naming practices resulted from
two related factors: (1) the lack of Spanish colonial success on the
Atlantic Coast, and (2) the differences in social organization between
Pacific and Atlantic societies that were related to different ecological
conditions in each region.
Borrowing from pre-Columbian institutional arrangements, the
Spanish organized Pacific Indian society into a system of hierarchically
named groupings. At the lowest level was the galpón (a Spanish word that
tellingly means communal slave dwelling), which consisted of an
extended group of agnatic kin. A number of galpones constituted a plaza,
which was led by a cacique or teyte. A pueblo indio, in turn, consisted of a
conglomeration of plazas. Using this institutional structure, the Spanish
were able to quite rationally extract labor and tribute from the pueblos
indios (Romero Vargas 1993a, 15). The entire system depended on the
existence of clearly defined communal ties on the part of Indians.
Nicaraguan historian Germán Romero Vargas explained:
above and beyond local kin groups, which in modern Miskitu are
known as taya (bi-lateral kin groups) and kiamp (uni-lateral kin groups;
the word itself probably derived from the English “camp”). In her
ethnography of Asang, a twentieth-century Rio Coco Miskito village,
Helms identified fifty of these groups, which she described as “a loose
kindred” that includes “all living relatives to a distance of third cousin
from ego” within the riverine village of approximately 700 (Helms
1971, 72). Although these terms are completely absent from the histor-
ical literature, most of the historical sources, such as M.W. above, men-
tion the importance of multiple kin groups within Mosquito Coast
settlements, Zambo and Mosquito alike.
With regard to the relationship between the Blacks and Indians of
the area, historical sources provided consistently contradictory accounts.
Exquemelin claimed that the Mosquito Indians (referring to the Indians
of the Cape whom he perceived to be typical of the “Island Caribes”)
cohabited the “Island” with “Negros,” some of whom were held as slaves
(Exquemelin 1685, 93, 98).32 According to Exquemelin the “Negros”
lived in separate settlements where they lived “according to the Customs
of their own Countrey” (ibid., 100). Other sources, such as the English
pirate M.W. and early eighteenth-century Spanish officials Luis Antonio
Muñoz and Santaella Melgarejo, claimed that the Black slaves promptly
blended into the Indian groups of the Cape (Conzemius 1932, 17;
Naylor 1989, 230). Still other sources argued that the Negroes and Indi-
ans entered into bloody warfare, with the Negroes eventually vanquish-
ing the Indians, taking Indian women as mates. Take, for example, the
following testimony of Fray Benito Garret y Arloví, Bishop of
Nicaragua, who in 1711 wrote:
In the year 1641 a ship carrying Blacks [negros] was wrecked on the
coast of the North sea . . . they took shelter in the bush of those
mountains which was occupied by Carib Indians [indios caribes]
who, threatened by their new guests, made war against them and for
many years held the upper hand. With time the Blacks defeated the
Caribs who withdrew to mountains towards the Segovias and
Chontales . . . with the women of the defeated the winners multi-
plied and, because the first people there had died, today their
descendants are called zambos because they are the children of Black
40 Shipwrecked Identities
men and Indian women. This story was told to me by a Black man
called Juan Ramón who lives in this city [Granada], and whose
advanced age makes plausible his recollection of the events that he
narrates. (Incer 1990, 294)
gullible the aspiring Mosquito Coast leaders whose authority they selec-
tively bolstered—at times even going to the lengths of “educating” them
in England and Jamaica.
Notwithstanding the historical antipathy between Spaniards and
Costeños that has so often been cited in the modern literature as lying
at the root of the modern Sandinista-Costeño conflict, the fact that at
different times Miskito leaders solicited Spanish support (from the colo-
nial governments of Costa Rica and New Granada) in order to enhance
their positions speaks to the tactical and contingent nature of the Mos-
quito alliance with the British. In her book on Anglo-Spanish politics in
the Mosquito Coast, Historian Barbara Potthast devoted a chapter to this
little-known history in which Mosquito Coast leaders attempted to
solidify Spanish support (Potthast 1988, 253–303; also see Olien 1983,
213; Helms 1986, 512; Romero Vargas 1995, 188; Offen 1999). Miskito
leaders consciously manipulated European sources of power and prestige
in local and regional political negotiations (Olien 1983, 204; Offen
1999).
In Mosquito Coast society, power came to be marked by British
symbols and goods. In the words of linguist John Holm, “The Miskito
began to think of themselves as partly European (as indeed they were
becoming, both culturally and genetically) and thus less vulnerable than
‘wild’ Indians to destruction at the hands of the Spaniards” (Holm 1978,
38). The Mosquito kings displayed their ties to the British through a sil-
ver crown and scepter given by the governor of Jamaica. Later, Mosquito
titleholders were known to dress in British naval uniforms (Dennis and
Olien 1984, 727). An Indian and African-influenced Creole English,
which Holm described as “one of the oldest varieties of English spoken
outside of England,” was used along with Miskitu as the two lingua fran-
cas in the region in the eighteenth century (Holm 1978, 95). Local and
regional leaders also legitimated their authority on the basis of their mas-
tery of English, the prestige language of the Coast. These and other sym-
bols played a central role in Mosquito political structure, where “at least
as early as 1687, the Miskito believed that in order for an individual to
legitimate his claim as king, he must first be recognized as the group’s
leader by the English” (Olien 1983, 200).
The Miskito king never ruled over a “state-type political structure”
(Dennis and Olien 1984, 718).33 The king, governor, admiral, and general
Nicaragua’s Two Coasts 45
his immediate precinct reaches to the cape, and runs far up the country.
The governor’s precinct joins to the king’s, and extends between twenty
and thirty leagues to the southward, till it meets the admiral’s. The
people under these chieftains are pure Indians” (Olien 1983, 209).
Edwards explained that these separate “tribes” could be differenti-
ated as distinct “both by nature and by policy: by nature, from the gen-
eral distinction of pure Indians and Samboes; by policy, as living and
acting under several chieftains” (Helms 1977, 159). Edwards’s contem-
porary and fellow historian Edward Long stated that the “Mosquitos” (a
term that he regarded a “general name”) were composed of several
“tribes” composed of either “Samboes” or “Pure Indians” (Long 1972
[1774], 316).
Not only did the eighteenth-century sources, as well as the
nineteenth-century sources, describe the political divisions as correspon-
ding with racial differences (“nature”), but, more significantly, the
sources infused their characterizations of these sub-tribes with the racial
prejudices and stereotypes of their day. English sources typically attrib-
uted what they perceived to be the most negative features of the
Mosquito Indians to their African ancestry, and they consistently charac-
terized the Sambo wings of the Mosquito as being subject to those char-
acter traits (laziness and treachery) that they most used to describe the
Negroes of their own slave societies.
Take, for example, Edward Long’s description of the Samboes of
Mosquito: “Among them is a mixed race, called Samboes, supposed to
derive their origin from a Guiney ship; which traditions says, was
wrecked on the coast above a century ago; certain it is, that their hair,
complexion, features, and make, clearly denote an African ancestry; from
whom they have also inherited some of the true characteristics of the
African mind; for they are generally false, designing, treacherous, knav-
ish, impudent, and revengeful” (Long 1972 [1774], 316).
Contrast this statement to Edwards’s portrayal of the pure Indians
whom he differentiated from the “treacherous” Samboes: “The pure
Indians are so called, because they are free from any mixture of
negro blood; and their general conduct gives a very favourable idea of
Indian nature. They are seldom guilty of positive evil, and often rise to
positive good, when positive good does not require much exertion of
mind. Their modesty, docility, good faith, disposition to friendship and
50 Shipwrecked Identities
historian Flor Solórzano:“It is obvious that during the 17th century sur-
vivors of the shipwreck mixed with the aboriginal population of the
place [Cape Gracias a Dios]. In this remarkable miscegenation, the prod-
uct of an accident, the black race contributed physical durability and
warrior traditions while the miskito contributed cunning and natural
abilities which together was unleashed on the region in the form of the
fearful race known as the ‘zambos-mosquitos’” (Solórzano 1992, 38).
Although less openly contemptuous of the mixed Mosquitos, Solór-
zano operates under the assumption that each so-called race contributed
a distinct quality to the resulting hybrid population. Once more, she
reproduces commonly held beliefs, historically rooted in New World
slavery, that associate Africans with brute physical strength and Indians
with harmony with nature.
This approach towards the role of Africans vis-à-vis Indians in Mos-
quito Coast history, however, also resonates in North American schol-
arship. US historian Robert Naylor, for example, employs a form of
racial determinism in his explanation of the rise of ascendancy of the
Miskito Indians. For example, he wrote:
The Sambos had come a long way from their origins at Cape
Gracias a Dios some seventy-five years earlier, when the survivors of
a wrecked slave ship had taken up life among the Mosquito Indians.
Their descendants had increased in number and expanded territori-
ally. They were generally darker in color than the Indians, although
they came in all shades; they were also a little taller than their Indian
counterparts, and were noted for their frizzy hair and African
features. They had tended to become even more bellicose, arrogant
and adventurous that the pure Mosquito Indians, and before long
they had emerged as the dominant element at the cape. (Naylor
1989, 41)
Spain had long hoped to build a canal that would connect the Atlantic
and the Pacific. The port of Greytown, at the mouth of the San Juan
River on the southern edge of the Mosquito Coast, was considered the
ideal entrance point for a passage across the isthmus. Britain, therefore,
moved the seat of the Miskito Kingdom south from Sandy Bay to
Bluefields, which was much closer to Greytown. Later, the Mosquito
government was moved to Greytown itself, far from the centers of
Costeño population—particularly Miskitu-speaking Costeños whose
concentration was greater in the northern Mosquito Coast. This tip in
the scale of regional importance toward the south favored the inhabitants
of Bluefields and Pearl Lagoon, where Creoles had recently become the
dominant term of racial identification.
At this time the United States, following the Monroe Doctrine,
attempted to dislodge Britain from the coast of Central America. As part
of this effort, the United States engaged in an active propaganda cam-
paign to discredit the Mosquito government. US diplomat and ethnol-
ogist E. G. Squier was a key player in the effort. He ridiculed the
Mosquito king as a drunken “Negro” puppet of British imperialist inter-
ests. Central American governments, in turn, echoed these and similar
assaults on the Mosquito king. This hostility towards the Mosquito gov-
ernment increased the pressure on the Mosquito government to present
itself as a legitimately constituted Indian government. For this reason the
Mosquito government began to officially note the racial make up of its
members, in effect institutionalizing racial categories such as Indian and
Creole. For example, the election protocol of 1865 systematically cate-
gorized the race of the electors as either “Creoles,” “Indians,” or “Half-
Indians.” This classification was introduced in the official protocol
because “every document of the Reserve was under pressure to display
a specifically Indian legitimacy” (Oertzen, Rossbach, and Wunderich
1990, 67). The practice of socio-racial identification in the region can-
not simply be viewed as a matter of the assertion by individuals or
groups of customs or culture, however defined, without placing ade-
quate emphasis on the political (and indeed geopolitical) contexts in
which these assertions were made.
Olien’s approach to Creole ethnogenesis tends to regarded mutually
exclusive cultural difference as the substance of regional ethnic diversity.
However, it is worth noting that the Miskito Indian elite, some of whom
56 Shipwrecked Identities
Apart from the chief, the majority of rural village leaders (who
were generally regarded at the time as Indians) were marginalized from
taking part in the administration of what was nominally an Indian gov-
ernment. In the south, English-speaking leaders, who increasingly came
to be identified as Creoles despite their extensive cultural and kin ties to
the Miskito (as Patterson’s case above illustrates), took the reigns of
the Mosquito government. They represented a local upper class who
maintained their status by monopolizing trade with the British and
North American companies in the area. However, it is crucial not
to mistake this situation (as many historians and anthropologists have
done) for a situation in which a culturally distinct racial group exercises
power over a subordinate racial group. Rather, a regional shift in
power was occurring—a regional shift that undoubtedly had racialized
implications.
According to the logic of the relevant treaties, the Miskito nation
was to be an Indian nation, which functioned according to its “own cus-
toms” and “regulations.” Inhabitants of the region created a government
based on a model of the modern liberal state, derived explicitly from the
British. The regulations that they enacted were distinctly British. This
fact, given the highly Anglicized nature of the region, does not repre-
sent a contradiction. In 1874 Hereditary Chief William Henry Clarence,
in an address to the “Chiefs and Headmen and Representatives of Mos-
quito,” stated: “In turning to domestic affairs, my residence in Jamaica,
and my acquaintance with its institutions, and trade, and people, show
me much that is necessary among us, and I am sure the best means to
consolidate and execute the laws, to educate and protect the people, to
encourage and control honourable trade, to secure and increase the rev-
enue, require speedy attention. . . . I wish to see Mosquito respected by
other States, and recognized amongst the nations” (Oertzen, Rossbach,
and Wunderich 1990, 338).
Some of the first acts of the Mosquito government were to declare
the ports and rivers as open for duty-free commerce, levy a personal
income tax, and enact legislation regulating the use of public lands.
A public land office was created that was empowered to “let and lease
the public lands, and to regulate the sale and disposition of its natural
productions.” Another law was enacted that forbid obtaining “from
any Mosquito Indian, within the Reservation Tassa [rubber], or other
Nicaragua’s Two Coasts 59
Apart from the law mentioned above, the government passed other
laws aimed at decreasing the exploitation of Indians and “natives” (the
term used to describe all residents of the Reservation). Natives often
accrued large debts to foreign merchants. In 1883 the government abol-
ished the debtor’s prison and cancelled debts not paid by March 1884.
It put debtors on the payroll at fifty cents a day, half of which went
toward the service of their debt. A maximum interest rate was fixed, and
household goods were declared free from confiscation. All of this was
condemned by foreigners as a “fiasco” (Vilas 1989, 32).
Although the majority of Miskito Indians did not participate in the
highest levels of government, this is not to say that the government was
60 Shipwrecked Identities
Barthian terms, the boundaries between these ethnic groups was not
constituted by distinct cultural content (Barth 1969).
and titles represented the most controversial issue. The terms of the
Harrison-Altamirano Treaty provided that the Nicaraguan government
should “allow the Indians to live in their villages . . . following their own
customs, in so far as they are not opposed to the laws of the country and
to public morality” (ibid.). The treaty also stipulated that “public pasture
lands will be reserved for the use of the inhabitants in the neighborhood
of each Indian village” (ibid.). Again, it is important to note that despite
the fact that the wording of the treaty referred to the residents of the
region using the blanket term Mosquito Indians, it clearly intended to
cover both Indians and Creoles.
According to the terms of the treaty, Indians and Creoles were given
two years to legalize under Nicaraguan law their claim to all the prop-
erty that they had acquired before 1894 according to the laws of Mos-
quito (pre-1860) and the Mosquito Reserve (1860–1894). If they could
not present such a legal title, they would be granted eight manzanas
(roughly 2 acres) of land per family, the location of which would be cho-
sen by the government. With regard to the lands that in the last ten years
had been stripped from Creoles and Indians and given to foreigners and
Pacific Nicaraguans, the government agreed to “indemnify them by the
grant of suitable public lands of approximate value as near as possible to
their present residence” (ibid.).
Over the next twenty years the situation of land titles was a matter
of constant confusion and conflict. The Nicaraguan government, having
achieved its goal of governing the extraction of resources from the Mos-
quito Coast, raised taxes and intensified concessions to foreign compa-
nies. Although the Atlantic coast contained only about 10 percent of the
country’s population, it contributed 40 percent of the duties collected by
the government (Dozier 1985, 161). The government, however, neg-
lected to spend these revenues on maintenance of government offices
and infrastructure, which allowed foreign companies to act as the de
facto government. Lumber and banana companies built railroads strictly
for resource extraction with no intention of creating a sustainable system
of regional transportation, and built other forms of temporary infra-
structure aimed at cost-efficient plunder. Foreign companies were
granted monopolies on resources and transportation, thus eliminating
competition and putting independent planters at the mercy of the com-
pany (ibid., 158).45
Chapte r 3
67
68 Shipwrecked Identities
Bragman’s Bluff:
A Nice ly Situate d Plac e
In Managua on January 28, 1921, Leroy T. Miles, a US citizen rep-
resenting the Salmen Brick and Lumber Company and the Vacarro Bros.
Inc. of New Orleans, signed an agreement with the Nicaraguan gov-
ernment that would dramatically change the course of history in the dis-
tant Mosquito Coast settlement of Bilwi. At the turn of the twentieth
century, Bilwi, a coastal village ten miles north of the Wawa River and
sixty miles south of the mouth of the Coco River, was even on regional
standards an unimportant village. It did not play a significant role as a
port in the coastal export-oriented economy, which at the turn of the
century was based primarily on lumber. In the northern sector, lumber
and other natural resources were extracted by way of the three major
rivers (Prinzapolka, Wawa, and Coco), each of which had ports on or
around their mouths. Cape Gracias a Dios, at the mouth of the Coco
From Bilwi To Puerto Cabezas 71
River, had long been the major port of the northern Mosquito Coast,
while other villages sprang up along these rivers to meet the needs of the
extractive industries.2
Although the relatively poor soils around Bilwi historically had pre-
vented it from sustaining a larger indigenous population, Bilwi’s strate-
gic position on the ridge of the only significant promontory on the
northern Mosquito Coast had long attracted English traders to the place,
which they named “Bragman’s Bluff ” (De Kalb 1893, 249).3 The earli-
est mention of permanent habitation of the place appeared in the
account of M.W., an English pirate who visited the Mosquito Coast at
the end of the seventeenth century. M.W. claimed that Thomas Arkes
and John Thomas, two English buccaneers who were refugees from a
historic English raiding party that sacked Nueva Segovia in 1674,
lived a “pagan” life there among forty “savage” Indians, some of whom
served them as slaves and prostitutes (Romero Vargas 1995, 274; Naylor
1989, 40).
Before the British evacuation of 1787, Bragman’s Bluff represen-
ted one of the eight permanent English settlements in the region, along
with Black River, Cape Gracias a Dios, Sandy Bay, Walpa Sixa, Great
River, Pearl Lagoon, and Bluefields. Out of a total of fewer than five
hundred permanent English settlers in the entire region, only Sandy Bay
had fewer English residents than Bragman’s Bluff, which had six (Pot-
thast 1988, 231). Although the English settlement at Bragman’s Bluff
undoubtedly attracted native people of the region (some of whom stayed
involuntarily as one of seventy Black and Indian slaves), the largest
Costeño populations inhabited other villages, the closest and most
important of which, Twappi, was located three miles to the north and
was the home of the Mosquito governor.
After the British evacuation of the region, Bragman’s Bluff appears
to have been continuously occupied until the present. In the nineteenth
century, historical sources began to identify an Indian village at the site
called “Bilwi.”4 As previously noted, in the nineteenth century the racial
identification of Costeños began to bifurcate towards either end of
a Black-Indian ideological spectrum. Southern villages, with their
“capital” at Bluefields, increasingly came to be identified as Creole.
Northern villages, which in the past had often been identified with
mixed Black/Indian peoples known, among other things, as Zambos
72 Shipwrecked Identities
banana plantations, and the pine savannas of the interior. The contract
between Miles and the Nicaraguan government stated:“By virtue of the
Powers contained in the Agriculture law the Government will order sus-
pended any denouncement of land which may have been made or may
be made in the region that the contractor [Miles] desires which is that
region situated north of the Wawa River, five to twenty miles from the
coast and surrounded by National lands except on the east, where there
are lands belonging to the Miskitos” (US Department of State Records
817.6172/1). Thus the Nicaraguan government granted Miles almost
unlimited discretion in selecting lands, some of which the government
and Miles knew were used, inhabited, and in the process of being legally
claimed by various Miskito communities. It is not surprising to discover
that this situation soon began to generate friction between the company
and the Ten Communities.
Given that the special rights to land that Costeño communities
enjoyed had resulted from a treaty between Great Britain and Nicaragua,
Costeño leaders quite logically appealed to the British government for
their defense. In a letter signed in Twappi and dated August 20, 1923,
the “syndices” of six out of the “ten communities” (a representative from
Bilwi did not sign the letter) wrote to the British vice-consul in
Bluefields:10
We thank you for the efforts, we know you will take in our
behalf. (US Department of State Records 817.52/35)
the Atlantic Coast and its inhabitants, as manifested in his report to the
national government (Ruiz y Ruiz 1927), is particularly instructive in
understanding his ultimate decision in the conflict. His writings lucidly
portray the deeply rooted primitivism manifested by Pacific Nicaraguans
with regard to the Atlantic Coast and its Costeño inhabitants.
In contrast to the Costeños, who regarded their historical connec-
tion with the Anglo-Caribbean as positive and “civilizing,” and took
pride in their ability to remain outside of the sphere of Spanish (and later
Nicaraguan) control, Ruiz considered that the backwardness and
poverty of the region resulted directly from, insofar as history was con-
cerned, the English interference in the colonial project of the Spanish.13
He wrote nostalgically:
One still regards with distaste the small Costeño villages, where
there is nothing more than signs of death. The english protection
and the moravian propaganda have not left the smallest trace of cul-
ture in the Mosquito Coast. This is why that when one passes the
“Fortress”, the old spanish fort that defended the hispanic-
nicaraguan civilization against piracy which had its hideaway in the
bay of Bluefields, one’s spirit jumps to life and exultant one cries in
admiration of this glorious monument, a legacy from Spain to the
nicaraguan colony.14 (ibid., 154)
to local rule. Ruiz granted that Indians had a culture (an “ethnological
curiosity”); however, he refused to bestow the same dubious recognition
on Blacks. From Ruiz’s perspective, neither of the two races contributed
to the national civilization, but Blacks were considered to have less to
offer because they could not claim to have their own culture. This fact
made them quintessential outsiders, in contrast to the Nicaraguan Indian
insiders—albeit primitive ones. For this reason Blacks did not have a
legitimate claim to a share of the Nicaraguan polity. Blacks, who from
the perspective of Pacific Nicaraguans were regarded as English-speaking
migrant sojourners from the English Caribbean, were considered too
English (albeit in a degraded way) and therefore, unlike the Miskito,
could not be considered primitive culture-bearing subjects.
In the context of Ruiz’s formulation, consider the fact that although
today Pacific Nicaraguans show a great demand for learning English,
they do not often regard the Creole English spoken by Costeños as a
resource for them in that endeavor. Foreigners such North Americans
and British are sought-after English teachers, but in my experience, hir-
ing Costeños as English teachers is not common. English is not viewed
as a national resource. In other words, they do not commonly view Cre-
ole English as part of the cultural and linguistic patrimony of the
Nicaraguan nation. This is because the English spoken by Costeños is
considered to be at best only of regional value.
From the perspective of Ruiz and his Nicaraguan contemporaries,
Blacks, even more than Indians, threatened the Nicaraguan nationalist
project because they were perceived as a potentially limitless source of
immigrants rather than a finite population living within national borders,
and because they were favored as workers by the foreign companies
investing in the Caribbean coast of Central America. The Nicaraguan
government favored foreign investment because it promised to make the
Coast economically productive, a task at the time unattainable for the
Nicaraguan government. Yet the government feared the Caribbeanization
of the region that accompanied this economic development.
This Caribbeanization was perceived as an invasion of African-
Americans and the English language. The city of Colon in Panama, the
Caribbean gateway to the Panama Canal, provided for Ruiz the most
horrifying example of this phenomenon. The Atlantic Coast of
Nicaragua was in grave danger of becoming another Colon, which he
From Bilwi To Puerto Cabezas 85
was Noah Columbus, made to the Ruiz commission was that Bragman’s
Bluff Lumber Company had illegally encroached on lands belonging to
the Ten Communities. In addition, he complained that the company had
erected a fence that separated the company buildings, including barracks
and housing for employees, from the community of Bilwi. The company
maintained a closed gate on the road between the company section of
town and the dwellings of the “native” section of town.
This native section accommodated many small stores, restaurants,
and, according to Ruiz, “nineteen cantinas.” Craftsmen who performed
periodic work for the company and its employees, such as shoe repair-
men, bricklayers, carpenters, and even a doctor, also lived there (Ruiz y
Ruiz 1927, 4). Ruiz described the “national” profile of Bilwi in the fol-
lowing manner:“With the development of the Bragman Bluff Company
during the last 3 years the village of Bilue has been erected. Its inhabi-
tants have come from a wide variety of places: there are 3 houses owned
by english, 4 by germans, 3 by chinese, 5 by Jamaicans, 26 by Hispanic-
nicaraguans and 12 by mosquito indians.19 The majority of the 350 total
inhabitants are spanish—the term used in these parts to refer to
Nicaraguans from the interior of the Republic” (ibid., 7). Ruiz added
that about 1,000 workers lived within the company section. The com-
pany forbade inhabitants of Bilwi to erect constructions of any kind
within those sections of Bilwi where it foresaw expansion. The police,
whose salaries were paid by the company, enforced this policy.
The most serious grievance expressed by Columbus, the síndico of
Bilwi, was that the company had illegally leased lands in and around
Bilwi from the community of Karatá. Karatá claimed that the pasture
lands to which it received title in 1918 included lands claimed and
inhabited by the Miskito people of Bilwi. In 1924 the síndico of Karatá
leased the entirety of its pasture lands to the US company for the price
of six hundred córdobas annually. Bilwi presented a 1917 title granted
to the Ten Communities that contradicted Karatá’s claim. Thus two
Miskito communities found themselves on opposite sides of a legal
conflict regarding Indian land. Unfortunately for Bilwi, the US com-
pany had already provided a de facto solution to the conflict.
Residents of Bilwi, Miskito Indians and “Spanish” alike, had previ-
ously brought this conflict in land titles to the attention of the British Con-
sul E. Owen Rees in the hope that he would arbitrate the dispute. Rees
88 Shipwrecked Identities
For Ruiz, the land claims of the Bilwi Indians were necessarily
linked to the degree to which they conformed to a stereotyped vision of
being Indian. In this vision, steeped in exoticism, Indians were held to
be part of the natural world rather than the man-made social and civi-
lized world, and hence their claims to the land were of a cultural and
spiritual, rather than legal, nature. Their alleged nomadic subsistence
practice of hunting and fishing, which for Ruiz stood in contrast to “civ-
ilized” agriculture, weakened their claim to legal land ownership. For
example, Ruiz explicitly placed the Miskito on par with the animal
world by characterizing their past residences as “lairs.” As part of the
flora and fauna of the natural world, they had only a transitory connec-
tion to their places of residence and therefore should not enjoy any legal
rights with regard to these. Once more, the Atlantic Coast land, like its
indigenous inhabitants, was portrayed as wild, uncivilized, and without
intrinsic value in its undeveloped state.
In this hostile context, in which development was pitted against
Indian communal identity, the inhabitants of Bilwi found themselves in
a peculiar bind. Not only did they have to assert their Miskito Indian
identity in order to protect themselves, and where possible profit,
from the encroachment of the US companies and the Nicaraguan
government, they also were obliged to prove that they were Bilwi Indi-
ans. In the process of asserting land rights as Indians, however, they
simultaneously invited the scorn of the Nicaraguan government, which
viewed Miskito land claims as a threat to its project of Hispanic-
Nicaraguan expansion. Given that the government regarded the Miskito
as an uncivilized people, their attempt to achieve recognition of their
land through civilized channels represented for the Nicaraguan govern-
ment a contradiction that Ruiz resolved by questioning the motives of
the litigants for claiming the land. Take, for example, the following quo-
tation: “Only after a large agro-industrial Enterprise was created, and a
new port was opened, and big business appeared in the old Bilwi could
greed possibly have any reason to exist in such a inhospitable region. . . .
In reality these lands did not have the slightest worth before the creation
of Puerto Cabezas and for this reason the mosquito indians, neither
those from Karatá nor those from the aforementioned communities,
never bothered to claim them” (Ruiz y Ruiz 1927, 16).
This statement reveals the deeply ingrained exoticism with which
the Miskito and the Mosquito Coast were perceived. The Nicaraguan
90 Shipwrecked Identities
commander of the USS Tulsa, which later arrived at the request of com-
pany officials, “trouble broke out between the native laborers and foreign
negro workmen, composed of Americans and Jamaican negroes” (US
Department of State Records 817.504/24). Nicaraguan employees of
Bragman’s Bluff Lumber Company threatened to kill Black workers.
Three US Blacks and two Jamaicans were injured. Thirty-seven
Nicaraguans were arrested and, according to H. D. Scott, company man-
ager, forty to fifty “British colored subjects” left the city on account of
the riots (US Department of State Records 817.504/23). Scott explained:
For some time the native laborers here have been complaining about
the introduction of negro laborers, and we have refrained from
introducing any of these when the work could be done by people
of the country. However it has been impossible to get people here
who understand the business of making turpentine, also there are
none who know how to make crossties. We have introduced some
nineteen negroes for the turpentine business, and on the SS Algeria
which arrived here on August 27th we introduced fourteen Ameri-
can negroes to make crossties. On the night these negroes arrived
here there was a demonstration made against them by the local
people, and this kept up and came to a head Sunday the 30th of
August, at about 12 o’clock. (ibid.)
because they refused to stand by and watch as the invaders raped their
women. These were the women who should rightfully bear them the
next generation of Indo-Hispanos. Indeed, Sandino disparaged Nicaraguan
apologists of US occupation as “eunuchs.” This metaphor perfectly
suited Sandino’s understanding of the Nicaraguan reality: the castrated
Nicaraguan man sat in compliance as the invaders sexually exploited the
women of the fatherland.
Sandino conceived of his war against the marines as a desperate
attempt to prevent the emasculation of the Nicaraguan man by the
North American man. They were locked in a struggle in which only the
victor could retain his masculinity. Within a conceptual framework that
associated femininity with submission and accommodation, the loser
would therefore be relegated to the status of a woman. Sandino wrote:
head the Phrygian cap of liberty bearing the magnificent slogan symbol-
ized by our red and black flag. She should not be a victim raped [violada] by
the Yankee adventurers who were invited here by the four horrid individ-
uals who still claim to have been born in this land” (S. Ramirez 1988, 76).
In a country in which to this day light skin, and the European
ancestry which it signals, is generally considered more attractive than
dark skin (in both men and women), Sandino’s valorization of the dark-
skinned women and the Indian past represented a shift away from the
dominant ideologies of racial worth and beauty. Despite his appeals to
the worthiness of the Mestizo and the Indo-Hispanic race, Sandino
manifested many contradictory attitudes and stances with regard to both
halves of the Indo-Hispanic formulation.
Sandino regarded the Nicaraguan Indian as the most exploited and
most vulnerable segment of society. As victims they deserved the help of
some future Nicaraguan state to bring them out of their miserable situ-
ation. Sandino remembered the visit of a poor campesino adolescent to
his camp: “Like so many children of our America, this child of pure
Indian race, in whose eyes glowed the indomitable pride of our ances-
tors, was wearing something that looked like an undershirt . . . along
with underpants, also in a tattered condition, hanging from his waist.
Everything about the boy cried out in protest against the present
civilization” (S. Ramirez 1988, 208).
For Sandino there was nothing particularly admirable or inspira-
tional about the contemporary “Indian race.” In their present pitiable
condition they were to be uplifted and brought into the ranks of civi-
lization. Although Sandino praised the Indian societies of the past as well
as their subsequent contribution of “blood” in the formation of the
Indo-Hispanic race, he regarded their present state as lamentable. In his
writings he did not question the commonly held assumption that Indi-
ans were ignorant and therefore represented an obstacle to national
progress. His attitude towards the “Indian problem” was similar in many
respects to the patriarchal and condescending attitude he held towards
women. The Indian must be protected because he represented what was
distinctive about Nicaragua and Latin America, but these Indians lacked
value in their own right and lacked the ability to protect their own inter-
ests. This represented basically a slight reworking of the “white man’s
burden” thesis. Sandino suggested that “what our Indians need is
102 Shipwrecked Identities
instruction and culture so that they can know themselves, respect them-
selves and love themselves” (S. Ramirez 1988, 485).
As a result of the war, Sandino came into intimate contact with the
inhabitants of the Atlantic Coast, many of whom actively identified
themselves as Indian. Whereas in the Pacific region of the 1920s, the last
of the corporately organized Indian communities were being abolished
and Pacific Nicaraguans rarely positively self-identified as Indians, in the
Atlantic Coast, Costeño communities often consciously adopted the
Indian or Creole label.21 Sandino incorporated Costeños into his troops,
some of them rising to the highest ranks of his army. He boasted in a
“Manifesto” addressed to “The Oppressed Men of our Atlantic Littoral”:
“Our Army, which is composed of blacks, Indians, whites etc. etc. with-
out racial nor class prejudice has determined to implant the principles of
human fraternity in Nicaragua. And to do this it asks the Nicaraguan
People for its unequivocal moral and material support of the Supreme
Leadership [of the Sandinista Army]” (US Department of State Records,
June 20, 1931. Consular Records from Puerto Cabezas).
Despite his willingness to court Costeño leaders, Sandino was gen-
erally unpopular among Costeños. Many of them resented his attacks
against the US-owned mines and fruit companies (Brooks 1998). These
companies represented their only source of wages and US and British
products for which they had acquired a centuries-old taste. Costeños,
who had been recently evangelized by the Moravian Church, also
resented the killing of a German-North American priest by Sandinista
forces, as well as their brutal executions of company workers (see Brooks
1998, Wünderich 1989, 67–85, and A. Adams 1995 for an ample dis-
cussion of this case). During my fieldwork in Puerto Cabezas, I spoke to
a number of Costeños who were Sandino’s contemporaries and who
claim that Sandino was known in the Atlantic Coast as a “bandit” in the
1930s. In the present, Costeños generally continue to refer to Sandino
as a bandit.
Although Sandino dreamed of improving the Atlantic Coast and
integrating it into the national life, his plans betrayed an essentially colo-
nialist mentality. Sandino viewed the extensive forests and savannas of
the region as empty lands (“tierras baldías”) that were ripe for settlement
and development by the “New Nicaraguan Man” (Belausteguigoitia
1981 [1934], 183). Referring to the inhabitants of the Atlantic Coast,
From Bilwi To Puerto Cabezas 103
Sandino even proposed that this district could one day become the
“Federal District” of a united Central America. It was fitting that
Sandino should propose the most sparsely populated region in all of
Central America as the site of the future Central American capital city.
For Sandino the Atlantic Coast represented a fresh start, a geographic
tabula rasa, in which the Indo-Hispanic race could fulfill its cosmic des-
tiny. It represented an unspoiled virgin who was waiting to be impreg-
nated by the “New Nicaraguan Man.”
Which half of the Indo-Hispanic man would carry out this task?
Clearly the Miskito, whose lands were offered to the Central American
proletariat, were not intended to colonize the region. Although to
Sandino’s credit it should be mentioned he stated that after being edu-
cated “the sumus, mosquitos and zambos would have the opportunity to
be managers and bankers of their cooperatives” (Wünderich 1989, 153).
Rather, it was the Mestizo descendants of the Spanish colonizers, for
whom Sandino did not hide his admiration, who would have to colo-
nize the savage Atlantic Coast as their Spanish predecessors had colo-
nized an untamed America. The “Manifesto to the Men of the
Department of León,” written by Sandino in 1931 before the US with-
drawal from Nicaragua, sheds some light on the above question:
Company Time
108
Company Time 109
directly from the Panama Canal Zone and Jamaica at the company’s
expense. It also recruited a significant number of Black American workers
who had experience in lumber and railroad companies. Nicaraguans per-
formed the most physically demanding and poorly paid labor.
In the period between the mid-1930s and World War II, the banana
industry dominated the economic life of the port. According to the US
consulate that operated in Puerto Cabezas from 1931 to 1940, White
workers (other than top managers and “superintendents”) were divided
into six occupations: overseers, timekeepers, foremen, stockmen, yard-
men, and cooks. These workers were paid monthly in US dollars and
worked on yearly contracts. The lowest and most poorly paid tasks,
called “farm work,” were carried out by about 1,500 laborers, almost all
of whom were Nicaraguans (Costeños and “Spaniards”) who were paid
on a daily or weekly basis in cash or company script. The company did
not recruit or house this reserve labor force, and the demand for these
laborers fluctuated drastically. For example, in 1935, US Consul Eli
Taylor in Puerto Cabezas noted that Bragman’s Bluff Lumber Company
reduced its labor force by 60 percent, “most of whom have returned
to places of origin in the interior” (US Department of State Records,
Correspondence of US Consulate—Puerto Cabezas, 1937).
“Farm work” was divided into six branches: (1) cutting and carry-
ing fruit to the railroad, (2) cleaning the banana lands of weeds and
brush, (3) making bridges over drains, (4) constructing “fruitroads” for
mules, (5) constructing “corduroy roads” (used for access to the interior
of plantations), and (6) digging drains (US Department of State Records,
Correspondence of US Consulate—Puerto Cabezas, 1931) Not surpris-
ingly, workers strove to acquire less grueling and more “skilled” jobs
such as lower-level clerical and supervisory positions, as well as railroad
and construction jobs. These mid-level jobs were often held by
West Indian and Costeño workers who spoke English and had experi-
ence in the banana, railroad, and lumber industries—a fact that inspired
resentment.
According to many of my older Porteño informants, “farm” work-
ers were disparagingly referred to, in English, as “machete men.”4 They
described “machete men” as illiterate agriculturalists from the interior of
the country who, attracted by wage-labor opportunities, found their
way to Puerto Cabezas. One of my informants, who worked as a
Company Time 111
were not suited or prepared for city life. As I will describe in greater
detail in the next chapter, Porteños strongly valued their own
identification with the jobs and lifestyle of city life in Puerto Cabezas.
They have long perceived of themselves as a cosmopolitan people who
enjoy the advantages of urban life, such as access to items of foreign
manufacture and a consistent contact and exchange with the United
States and the Caribbean. In their recollections of “company time,” they
contrasted their own cosmopolitanism (“good living”) with the scarcity
and self-reliance of peasant life.
According to the popular perception, Puerto Cabezas was a place
where, as long as one had the money, any product could be acquired. In
the countryside, on the other hand, peasants were viewed to be in the
unenviable position of having to manufacture locally many of the goods
that they consumed in their daily lives, such as soap, rope, baskets,
brooms, and cheese. In the words of one Porteño informant, “Cuando
Puerto realmente era Puerto, aqui se econtraba del todo” (“When Port
was Port, you could find anything here.”). I found that in the 1990s, the
great majority of my informants, even young ones, agreed that “Port was
no longer Port,” by which they meant that after years of a war-imposed
isolation, Puerto Cabezas no longer possessed an essential quality that
had historically defined it: extensive commercial and cultural ties with
the rest of the world, particularly the Caribbean and the United States.
In Puerto Cabezas the salaried work force was overwhelmingly
male. As Cynthia Enloe has convincingly argued, banana plantation
work, because it involved machete work and transportation to often-
isolated camps, was regarded as “men’s work” by US corporations (Enloe
1989, 133).5 In her discussion of the role of gender in the banana plan-
tation complex, Enloe wrote:
One of the conditions that has pushed women off the banana repub-
lic stage has been the masculinization of the banana plantation.
Banana-company executives imagined that most of the jobs on their
large plantations could be done only by men. Banana plantations
were carved out of wooded acres. Clearing the bush required work-
ers who could use a machete, live in rude barracks, and who, once
the plantation’s trees were bearing fruit, could chop down the heavy
bunches and carry them to central loading areas and from there to
Company Time 113
1978, 111). White American workers and their families lived inside a
fenced area in well-constructed family housing with running water and
electricity. (In the present, most residents of Puerto Cabezas do not have
access to these amenities). The American area, known as the “zone,” rep-
resented a distinguishing feature of the city that, in often very complex
and controversial ways, stands out in the memory of present-day
Porteños. The zone included both the industrial installations of the com-
pany and the residences and much of the “human resource” infrastruc-
ture (to use a term from modern-day corporate America) for US
company employees. In my interviews with Porteños, they manifested a
profound ambivalence with regard to the zone and, by extension, the
role of US companies.
On the one hand, the massive installations of the zone embodied US
wealth, progress, and technological prowess. When asked to describe
Puerto Cabezas during “company time,” Porteño informants universally
mentioned the massive engineering and architectural projects initiated
by US companies in and around Puerto Cabezas. They contrasted this
technological and infrastructural advancement to the present atraso
(backwardness). Informants explained how during “company time,” the
pier extended twice as far into the ocean as it does now and it accom-
modated large tankers. One informant nostalgically described these ships
as the “biggest in the Caribbean” and contrasted them to the lamentable
present situation in which “only lobster boats and Moskeeta velas [sail-
boats]” dock at the pier. For this informant, the small sailboats that
Miskito fishermen use to catch and bring their haul of turtles, fish, and
shrimp to market represented the polar opposite of the oceangoing
tankers that during “company time” stopped at Puerto Cabezas: one was
Indian, small, backward, and local (concepts that in the minds of
Porteños, including self-proclaimed Miskitos, are in certain contexts
closely associated); and the other was American, large, advanced, and
international (also tightly associated concepts).
In the context of explaining to me the past importance of Puerto
Cabezas, even young Porteños recalled nostalgically when the railroad
tracks extended from the zone (situated on the bluff ) down to the end
of the pier. The rail line no longer functions in Puerto Cabezas and the
rails were long ago removed from the pier. Today the pier continues to
deteriorate to the point that it has become hazardous for its users. The
Company Time 115
not like the Soviet ones now which are worthless. Puerto Cabezas was
like a beehive.”10
In the present the rusted out metal frames of the old sawmills and
newly-built one-room houses surround the ponds, which eerily lacks
vegetation. Women can be seen in the morning and afternoons washing
their clothes in their waters, disregarding warnings issued by institutions
of public health. Like the water tanks, the ponds stand for both the best
and the worst of “company time.” They epitomize for Porteños the past
importance of Puerto Cabezas and the technological defiance of the US
companies against an unforgiving natural environment. At the other
extreme they provide yet another example of the hazards callously left
behind by US companies.
The examples of the water tank and the lumber treatment ponds
illustrate the ambivalence of Porteños with regard to the historical role of
US companies. Their accounts of “company time” were full of both
approval and contempt. Porteños recall with awe and admiration the
exploits of the companies, but they also recall, at times with acrimony,
their second-class-citizen status vis-à-vis North Americans—a status that
was most apparent in the zone. Some Porteños remember that
Nicaraguans (Costeños and “Spaniards” alike) were not allowed in the
zone unless they could demonstrate a good reason to be there. This was
particularly true in the residential area of the zone, which overlooked the
ocean to the north of the pier. Here, the “gringo bosses” lived in well-
painted two-story wooden structures with screened-in second-story
verandas. Mister Adams, one of my chief informants, a Belize-born
“Hindu” man who had lived in Puerto Cabezas since the late 1940s,
recalled:11 “You know where the CIDCA house is? Well that was where
the big boss man lived. Them people sit up there and drink gin and
whiskey . . . they no like rum. They make big parties only for gringos . . .
if you Nicaragua . . . no way, and if you black man . . . never. You can
never go. They no like mix with no black man. You go to the zone only
to work and when you finish you gone.”12 Other Porteños, aware of the
common charge of racism leveled (in retrospect) against the companies,
denied the severity of the segregation in Port during “company time.”
Down the road a few hundred yards north of the American zone,
the village of Bilwi swelled as Costeños, “Spaniards,” and West Indians
flooded the region. Workers, attracted by relatively high salaries, erected
118 Shipwrecked Identities
The Standard Fruit Company in Puerto Cabezas, like the more well-
known United Fruit Company, consciously engaged in the creation of
“consumer values” among its workforce as a way of shaping them, ide-
ologically and physically, to most effectively suit the company’s needs. In
many ways the internalization of this “consumer culture” crosscut
the different racial categories used by Porteños. By establishing a system
in which workers were paid in company script redeemable at the com-
pany-owned commissary and discouraging the formation of an agricul-
tural sector that might have served the food needs of the port, the
company created a profound dependence among Porteños on goods
imported from the United States and, later, the Coco River region. This
dependence, in turn, became naturalized, resulting in Porteños actively
valuing the cosmopolitan nature of the region and their own cos-
mopolitanism. This self-perception of cosmopolitanism stood in stark
opposition to the Pacific Nicaraguan perception of the region as isolated
and underdeveloped.
As many social scientists have observed, Costeños nostalgically
recall the “golden age” (Helms 1971, 113) of the banana boom and the
subsequent rubber, lumber, mining, and tuno booms (between the mid-
1930s and the early 1960s) when cash and goods were relatively easily
attainable from US companies and their commissaries operating
throughout the Mosquito Coast (Helms 1971; Nietschmann 1973;
Dennis 1981; Bourgois 1981; Jenkins Molieri 1986;Vilas 1989). Puerto
Company Time 121
of the salaries were usually paid in US dollars. In some cases the com-
pany would advance merchandise to its workers and then subtract this
amount from their weekly salaries (Vilas 1989, 48). Although at the time
workers frequently opposed the “coupon” policy and protested the high
prices and lack of variety in the company stores (ibid., 112), my mod-
ern Porteño informants generally regarded the stores as having played a
positive role in the life of the city. One Porteño, who had worked as a
mechanic during “company time,” recalled: “Here in Port a person had
everything. If the gringos didn’t have it then the Chinos would have it
on the commercial strip. Every week ships full of products came straight
from the United States and they were good products . . . the same ones
that the gringos used—rubber boots, soaps, shirts, you name it. And
parts for motors? All kinds.”16
German and Chinese immigrants established stores along the “Calle
Commercial,” which extended northward for a half-mile from the outer
edge of the zone to the residential area of Bilwi.17 Although these com-
mercial outlets competed to some extent with the company commis-
saries, this competition was mitigated by the fact that they relied heavily
on shipping lines controlled by the companies. The merchants of the
Calle Commercial, in contrast to the itinerant North Americans, con-
sidered themselves “natives” of the city, and with the profits of their
businesses came to represent a local bourgeoisie whose wealth is now
legendary.
Porteños greatly valued the ease of communication with the United
States, particularly in light of the difficulty of communication with the
Pacific Coast. Until recently, no telephone, telegraph, radio, or all-
weather road service existed between the Pacific and Atlantic coasts.
Throughout the first half of the twentieth century, the primary mode of
intra-regional communication took the form of a network of radio
transmitters set up by US companies.18 Porteños recall nostalgically the
days in which letters to and from the United States would arrive at their
destination in less then two weeks. A number of my older Porteño
informants had taken advantage of the fast and easy contact with the
United States to take mail-order courses that trained them to be electri-
cians, mechanics, carpenters, and so on, all trades that qualified them for
jobs in a semi-industrial port city. Porteños subscribed to US magazines
and received reasonably current US newspapers. The loss of such ties to
Company Time 123
The trip aboard the Bluefields Express lasted less than five hours and
people remembered that it was comfortable and safe. As one athlete
recalled:
the popular usage of the Mosquito Coast, “nation” is a term that can
best be described as a fusion of the North American terms “nationality”
and “ethnic group.” Costeños generally recognize foreigners as members
of their respective “nations” (in this case nationalities), but within
Nicaragua they also recognize Indians, Blacks, and Spaniards as “nations.”23
In sum, the distinctive feature of Puerto Cabezas, which Porteños
most referred to in their narratives of “company time,” was the level of
“action” (in English) or movimiento (in Spanish) in the city. Although
they recognized that work opportunities were unstable and that pay in
the US companies was low, they valued the dynamism of the coastal
economy. In their narrative of “company time,” Porteños consistently
emphasized the past “action” of Puerto Cabezas that contrasted with its
present stagnation or “sadness” (tristeza). My informants constantly
lamented that “el puerto esta palmado,” or “the port is busted,” and “No
hay movimiento”—“there is no action.” “Action” for Porteños signified
the presence of a wide variety of international industrial and commer-
cial interests that directly and indirectly resulted in economic opportu-
nities for Porteños. The perception of action promoted in Porteños a
highly valued sense of connection to the wider world.
North American ethnographers have noted that Costeños, particu-
larly Miskito Indians, value their present and historical ties to the
English-speaking Atlantic world and overestimate the importance and
the centrality of their position within that world. Charles Hale and
Edmund Gordon, for example, recognized what they respectively call
“Anglo affinity” and “Anglo ideology” as central elements of Miskito
and Creole worldviews (Hale 1994, 15; Gordon 1995, 6; 1998, 198).
Based on observations made during her fieldwork in the 1960s,
Mary Helms claimed that the Miskito rejected the Hispanic “sphere of
influence” and “imitated” the Anglo-American “sphere of influence”
(Helms 1971, 221). She argued that the Miskito attempted “to feel psy-
chologically a part of modern times,” but that this created anxieties
because “the Miskito do not fully understand the nature of the modern
world” (Helms 1971, 220). She wrote:
For example, at the time of this study the news was heavy with the
increasing military involvement of the United States in Vietnam.
However, reports of fighting in the Far East were interpreted by the
126 Shipwrecked Identities
people of Asang to mean that the war would very likely soon affect
them, because once they too experienced conflict on their river in
which the United States was involved (the Sandino Affair), and if it
happened once it could happen again. People talked incessantly
about keeping an eye out for airplanes and awaiting an attack. Yet
beneath the tension was a feeling that it was a mark of importance
and recognition to have war on the river, or, in other words, if war-
fare were part of the modern world, the Miskito should be involved
also. (Helms 1971, 221)
general, Porteños welcomed the infusion of goods and capital into the
local economy that was caused by the buildup in Puerto Cabezas prior
to the Bay of Pigs invasion of Cuba.
What was remarkable about my informants’ recollection of the Bay
of Pigs invasion was the matter-of-factness with which they regarded
their city’s brush with first-order geopolitical intrigue. It did not strike
my informants as anomalous or fanciful that Puerto Cabezas should play
a major role in an invasion that eventually led to a nuclear standoff
between the United States and the Soviet Union. In this sense Porteños
conformed to Helms’s characterization (of the Miskito) in which she
identified the exaggerated need “to feel psychologically a part of mod-
ern times” (Helms 1971, 220). Like the Miskito villagers with whom
Helms worked on the Rio Coco in the 1960s, modern Porteños mani-
fest what I prefer to call geopolitical self-importance that is absent from
the Pacific region.
The Mosquito Coast region has in fact been drawn into the center
of US foreign policy on many occasions in the twentieth century. From
the US Marine occupation of region in the 1920s and 1930s, to the Bay
of Pigs invasion of the 1960s, to the US sponsorship of Mosquito Coast
Contras, to the current targeting of the Miskito Coast by the DEA
(Drug Enforcement Administration) in the US “War on Drugs,”
Porteños have many compelling reasons to recognize their role in hemi-
spheric politics.
and lead mines of the interior, were relatively distant from Puerto
Cabezas—a fact that discouraged workers from abandoning wage labor
and reconstituting themselves as a peasantry.25
In the twentieth century, rural Costeños significantly increased their
production of agricultural products for sale in local and regional markets.
This change is particularly noteworthy because the region had histori-
cally lacked a significant peasantry.26 The inhabitants of the Mosquito
Coast, regardless of their putative ethnic or racial label, had for hundreds
of years traded naturally occurring forest and marine products with
Anglo-Americans for manufactured goods (including foods such as flour,
cooking oil, and rum). In the trading ports of the region, the demand
for food was filled by both regional and international trade; regionally
traded products obtained from small-scale swidden agriculture (as well as
hunting and gathering) were supplemented by imported international
foodstuffs (Helms 1971, 4). In rural areas, Costeños satisfied their food
needs by practicing a combination of swidden agriculture, fishing, hunt-
ing, and gathering. They regularly obtained manufactured items by par-
ticipating in intermittent wage labor, barter, and the sale of forest and
marine products such as turtle meat (Nietschmann 1973).
In the twentieth century, however, as large-scale lumber, banana,
mining, rubber, tuno, and other companies established themselves in
the Mosquito Coast, the demand for foodstuffs increased as the non-
subsistence sector of the region’s population rapidly grew. Consequently,
the agricultural production increased as rural Costeños began to
increase their production of “cash crops” destined for regional markets.
These cash crops, primarily rice and beans, had not historically been
incorporated into the diet of Costeños, who regarded rice and beans as
“Spanish food.”27
Helms, noting that this shift towards agricultural production for
regional markets was relatively new, argued that despite this recent turn
to peasant-like production, the Miskito Indians did not represent a
classic Mesoamerican peasantry because the region had never been drawn
into the surplus-extracting mechanisms of a nation-state. She wrote:
1970s, on the basis of using land that fell within the forest reserves cre-
ated by the Nicaraguan government at that time. Thus the individual vil-
lage or “community” represented the key classification around which
collective mobilization was exercised. Interestingly, as far as collective
political mobilization was concerned, the racial identification of these
villages, although in many contexts recognized, was not a particularly
salient characteristic.
However, starting in the late 1960s, after at least forty years in which
Costeños remained relatively apolitical, mobilization in the Atlantic
Coast region increasingly came to be carried out along self-consciously
ethnic and racial lines. During this period a number of organizations
emerged that attempted to organize Miskito and Sumo Indians as
Indians who shared a common collective interest above and beyond
their local communities. Although North American missionary churches
promoted these organizations, they represented a departure from the
missionary church-dominated civil society characteristic of the twentieth-
century post-reincorporation history.
Ironically, the Moravian Church during this period had been instru-
mental in inculcating both a pan-Costeño identification and providing
the main institutional support for the salience of the division between
Miskitos and Creoles. On the one hand, the very fact that the Moravian
Church represented a Protestant missionary church that almost exclu-
sively operated in the Atlantic Coast (in contrast to the Catholic
Church, which had been firmly entrenched in the Pacific since the time
of the conquest) helped to provide an institutional basis for Costeño self-
identification as Costeños.41 To be Moravian was to be Costeño, and
profoundly not español. The Moravian Church held “provincial synod”
meetings every three years in which pastors and religious representatives
from villages with churches throughout the region would meet to deal
with church matters.42 Throughout the twentieth century these regional
church meetings represented the primary event that, in addition to labor
migration, allowed Costeños to tangibly experience their regional unity
as a series of communities connected by a common faith and a common
religious institution—an institution that was not shared by “Spaniards”
from the Pacific.
On the other hand, the Moravian missionaries (whose skill and
enthusiasm in learning “native” languages served them in the missionary
Company Time 137
Central America (Smutko 1983, 46). They noted that just as King David
and King Solomon had defeated enemy nations, the Miskitos “con-
quered more than 20 neighboring tribes” and bested Spanish armies.
Eventually, the Miskito nation, of their own volition, “peacefully sub-
mitted to Nicaragua but no nation was ever able to conquer the miski-
tos” (ibid., 47). The 1970 workshop concluded with the following
thought:“Nations that do not fight for progress and improvement are the
slaves of others. The Miskito must continue fighting for their own
progress” (ibid., 48). Although ultimately the goals of these workshops
were to aid the missionaries in the lasting Christian conversion of the
inhabitants of the region, their methods contributed to the increasing
self-perception of Rio Coco villagers as an Indian nation, as well as their
increasing self-presentation as culture-bearing subjects.
The Moravian Church (which along with the Catholic Capuchin
missionaries in the Mosquito Coast was deeply influence by the current
trends in what was called progressive pastoralism) immediately took an
interest in the courses and methods developed by Smutko and his asso-
ciates. These courses later became very popular among Moravian pastors
and were offered throughout the 1970s (Hawley 1997, 120). This shar-
ing of materials and strategies between long-time rivals was not surpris-
ing in this region where Catholic and Protestant missionaries had been
cooperating closely for at least seventy years (Wilson 1983, 55). Based
on the analysis of the accounts of ALPROMISU leaders with regard to
the self-proclaimed “cultural revival” campaign that they initiated in the
1970s, it seems clear that the methods and ideas they used in their
so-called (so-called by outside analysts) “ethnic” mobilization was almost
indistinguishable from those used simultaneously in the religious mobi-
lization of the region carried out by Catholic and Protestant churches,
most importantly the Moravian church. The religious nature of modern
Miskito resurgence is almost completely absent from the anti-Sandinista
“essentialist” accounts, which I document in the next chapter, because
these are perceived to be incongruous with “indigenous identity.”
152
Neighborhoods and Official Ethnicity 153
had previously been far fewer) flooded the region, particularly Puerto
Cabezas. The upshot of these changes was that Puerto Cabezas became
far less international and racially diverse. My Porteño informants
regarded this fact as symptomatic of the “abandonment” of the city.
Porteños distinguish themselves from other Costeños on the basis of
their ability to speak Spanish and relate well with “Spaniards.” They take
pride in their own multilingualism (English, Spanish, and Miskitu),
which they contrast to the monolingualism of English-speaking areas to
the south and Miskitu-speaking areas to the west and north. Porteños
universally recognize the importance of multilingualism and they regard
this trait as being an integral part of being “prepared” (preparada), an
important and commonly used term that can be translated as educated or
sophisticated. To be “prepared” means to have the necessary education
and formally acquired skills to succeed in a profession (carrera). Prepara-
tion, apart from being a mark of personal refinement, also places one in
a position to attain a job of high prestige, which in Puerto Cabezas is
defined as those jobs that spare one from routine manual labor. Hence,
in Nicaragua, no matter how much folk knowledge a campesino may
have with regard to agricultural techniques, he or she would never be
described as preparada. Porteños view themselves as being more highly
prepared than other Costeños on the basis of their multilingualism and
their greater access to formal education and training given by foreign
companies, missionary churches, and the Nicaraguan state.
Notwithstanding the abandonment of the region, Porteños view the
relatively more advanced infrastructure (running water, electricity, roads,
etc.) of the city in comparison to other regions of the Mosquito Coast
as another indication of the privilege and, indeed, superiority, of
Porteños. During my fieldwork in Puerto Cabezas, Porteños manifested
this self-perception in a multitude of ways, including (as I illustrate in
this chapter) popular jokes. The following case provides a clear illustra-
tion of this attitude, particularly as it relates to multilingualism.
The At lant i c Se ri e s
During my stay in Puerto Cabezas I participated as a player in a
number of sports leagues, and I came to establish good rapport with
many of the athletes and athletic boosters of the city. For that reason,
when the city organized its all-star baseball team to send to the annual
158 Shipwrecked Identities
of leading citizens of the city who are known popularly as “gente gruesa”
(literally, thick people), “gente de billete” (monied people), or “upla tara”
(literally, big people in Miskitu), announced that it did not have the
money to provide adequate uniforms, equipment, and, most impor-
tantly, transportation to Pearl Lagoon.
Porteños regarded this crisis as yet another example of the lamenta-
ble state of affairs of the port and of Nicaragua in general. They most
commonly referred to this state of affairs simply as “the situation” or “la
situación.” They recalled that in the past, sports in the city had been
financed largely by the foreign companies operating in the region. Also,
commercial activity of the port during “company time” had allowed
greater access to sporting equipment such as bats, balls, and uniforms.
My older Porteño informants boasted that during “company time” their
uniforms were as attractive as those used in the “Big Leagues” (US
Major League Baseball) and they only used top-quality equipment.4
They also recalled traveling to Bluefields and the south on comfortable
transport ships at the expense of the companies.
However, in contrast to the general perception in the city that
“Sandino time” brought hardship, Porteño athletes recalled that the con-
ditions for them actually improved during the 1980s. On a number of
occasions the Puerto Cabezas team was flown to the tournament on
Soviet-donated transport planes flown by the Sandinista Air Force. Many
Porteño athletes also reported fondly the experience of competing
and receiving athletic and professional training in Cuba and Managua.
In many ways, athletics during the Sandinista period was the one of the
few areas in which Porteños did not feel “abandoned.” In fact, apart
from the much-despised military service, athletics represented one of
the few avenues for young men and women from Puerto Cabezas to
acquire “preparation” through scholarships and national and interna-
tional travel.
In 1993, after last-second appeals by the Federation to citizens and
institutions of the city, a foreign fishing company agreed to contribute
the use of a shrimp-fishing boat on the condition that the Federation
would provide fuel and crew. Despite the vociferous protests from the
players, the players from the northern delegations (Waspám, Rosita, and
Puerto Cabezas) and I piled into a small, diesel-powered boat that reeked
of dead fish for a sixteen-hour trip, unprotected from the tropical sun
160 Shipwrecked Identities
Miami, Houston, and New York. For that reason, in the words of one
of my informants, they “think they are in Miami.”
Interestingly, Porteños regarded their own team, their own city, and
ultimately their own self as being fundamentally mixed. Among the
players on the team it was generally accepted that all of the pitchers were
“Indians from the communities” and that all the rest of the players were
“Port boys.” In fact the pitchers did come from nearby villages such as
Kambla, Lamlaya, Sisín, and Twappi, communities that lie within the
municipality of Puerto Cabezas. These pitchers told me that, although
they received almost no money for playing baseball, they lived in Puerto
Cabezas in order to play baseball at a more competitive level and to “pass
time.” Also they explained to me that there was little work or diversion
in the communities, so they did not mind staying with their family
members in Puerto Cabezas.5 They all spoke Miskitu, some Spanish and
English as well. Many of the self-proclaimed “Port boys” who distin-
guished themselves from the players “from the communities” also spoke
fluent Miskitu and had kin ties throughout the region.
In formal and informal team meetings and conversations in which I
participated, I noticed that the “Port boys” complained that the Indian
pitchers lacked guile and sophistication in their pitching style. Many of
them attributed the team’s lack of success in the tournament to the infe-
rior pitching of the pitching staff. They recognized that the pitchers had
plenty of throwing velocity. Velocity is an essential talent that, like stature
in basketball, is regarded to be innate. It was precisely on the basis of
their demonstrated pitching velocity that they were chosen over the
pitchers from Puerto Cabezas.
The criticisms that were made against the Indian pitchers corre-
sponded to the racial stereotypes predominant in Puerto Cabezas.
Namely, these criticisms corresponded with the historically rooted per-
ception of the Indian as an unskilled laborer who, like a pack animal,
makes a living from his or her brute force. In contrast, Porteños have
throughout the century highly valued the ability to enter into more
“skilled” positions within the regional economy. Consequently, Porteños
perceive themselves as being more intelligent, worldly, and sophisticated
in comparison to “simple” Indians. As I described in previous chapters,
“from the communities” is a description that heavily implies Indianess,
while being Porteño implies certain characteristics and lifestyles such as
“preparation,” intelligence, year-round skilled or semi-skilled work, and
162 Shipwrecked Identities
urbanity, which are more associated with being Black than with being
Indian. Hence, when players appealed to stereotypes about the distinc-
tion between “Port boys” and pitchers “from the communities,” they
were simultaneously, yet not exclusively, invoking both race (Indian vs.
Black and Spaniard) and culture (urban vs. rural, skilled vs. unskilled,
civilized vs. uncivilized).
What is important to note about this case is that the same individ-
uals who referred to the Indian pitchers as “brutos” (stupid) in a racial-
ized way were themselves people who at some level proudly considered
themselves Indians. Clearly, the ostensibly geographical categories of
Porteño vs. “from the communities” were crosscut in complicated ways
by racial and cultural categories that were deeply imbedded in the
dynamic regional political economy.
I also observed that among Porteños the division of the Indian cat-
egory along racial and cultural fault lines was paralleled by the division
of the Black category as well. This phenomenon was most clearly illus-
trated by a series of jokes about the allegedly primitive people of Pearl
Lagoon that were told by a self-proclaimed Black man of the Puerto
Cabezas baseball team. Upon our return to Puerto Cabezas, I joined a
group of young men who had gathered around Ted, a charismatic vet-
eran baseball player, as he was describing in English his impressions of
Pearl Lagoon. Ted remarked to the group how “primitive” life in Pearl
Lagoon was in comparison to Puerto Cabezas. He noted that only a few
cars existed in the entire city and he drew laughter from the crowd when
he noted that all the streets were paved with grass. He also made fun of
the sporadic and limited electrical service in the city that every evening
left people from Pearl Lagoon talking on their porches in the darkness.
The crowd received with much merriment his mimicry of a toothless
elderly blind man swatting mosquitos in the darkness.
Continuing with the theme of the backwardness of Pearl Lagoon
and its people, Ted went on to note that, in contrast to “Port people,”
the “Black men” of Pearl Lagoon spoke Spanish very poorly. He told the
following two jokes, among others, as humorous illustrations of this
phenomenon:6
friend?]. The woman got vexed [angry] and said, “You come to my
house and call me tall and meager!”
Later, another Spaniard gone to the house and said, “Como está?” And
the old man on the porch turned round and said, “Eh, Esther some-
one looking you.”
different groups in the city. In turn, Porteño ideologies of race are con-
tested and transformed in the practice of daily life in Puerto Cabezas.
Although in the minds of present day Porteños, the founding of
Puerto Cabezas is synonymous with the foundation of Bragman’s Bluff
Lumber Company, all recognize that the history of Puerto Cabezas pre-
dates the arrival of the company. Far from a matter of mere historical
curiosity, the fact of Bilwi’s Miskito Indian past impinges on the present
of Puerto Cabezas on a daily basis. Although many deny it, others
lament it, and still others glorify it, Bilwi was, and therefore is, “indian
tasbaika”—a very charged Miskitu concept that means Indian land.
The city’s Indian origin serves as a point of contention in a number
of contexts. Most importantly, many residents of Puerto Cabezas,
regardless of any ethnic affiliation that they may assert, must pay the
community of Karatá, a Miskito Indian village fifteen kilometers to the
south, a form of yearly rent. Karatá has since the 1920s successfully
claimed that the land on which Puerto Cabezas now lies represents “pas-
ture land” guaranteed to Karatá under the terms of the Harrison-
Altamirano Treaty of 1905. The obligation to pay rent to Karatá creates
a great deal of confusion and controversy in the city and is frequently the
subject of debate. Specifically, the terms of this debate center on the
issue of the validity of indigenous land claims. However, on a more gen-
eral level this debate represents a matter of everyday relevance to
Porteños through which they develop and contest ideologies of racial
and ethnic worth.
Although Porteños take a wide variety of stances with regard to the
legitimacy of Miskito, and especially Karatá Miskito, land claims in
Puerto Cabezas, it remains a matter of uncontested collective memory
that a Miskito man named Noah Columbus was the original inhabitant
of Bilwi. During fieldwork in Puerto Cabezas, I collected many stories
dealing with the first inhabitants of Bilwi, which I will refer to as
“founding myths.”8 The content of some of these myths varied a great
deal, while others contained a remarkable degree of consistency relative
to one another regardless of any ethnic or geographic (Atlantic/Pacific)
affiliation of the speaker.
A Costeño born in the Pacific who had resided for the majority of
his fifty years in Puerto Cabezas explained to me the origins of the city
of Puerto Cabezas: “Before the US company came there lived a family
Neighborhoods and Official Ethnicity 165
here. There was a Miskito named Noah Columbus. He lived out there
by those tanks by the Moravian Hospital. Now that place is called El
Cocal. But in those days they were the only people who lived in Bilwi.
You know that this place is called Bilwi in Miskito? All this around
where we are was bush. Over there in El Cocal is where Bilwi began.”9
This quote expresses a number of common themes in the “founding
myths” that I heard and collected in Puerto Cabezas. These founding
myths all emphasize that Bilwi is the original name of the area, and that
pre-company Bilwi had a small population, all of which was Miskito.
Informants consistently portrayed Bilwi as having been an unimportant
settlement with regard to both size and commerce. In fact, it is significant
that many versions include the detail that Noah Columbus and his family
members were the only inhabitants of Bilwi. It is also generally recognized
that Noah Columbus lived in a place that has come to be known as a
neighborhood of Puerto Cabezas called El Cocal.
Porteños regard El Cocal as a neighborhood that is overwhelmingly
populated by Miskito Indians. Official surveys and census reflect this
perception.10 The neighborhood witnessed a dramatic rise of population
in the early 1980s as communities along the Coco River were uprooted
as a result of the Contra War and the forced evacuation of the region.
Thus, Porteños, although recognizing that El Cocal has always possessed
a high concentration of Miskito residents, view the majority of current
residents of the neighborhood as being recent immigrants from rural and
riverine communities. Given that Porteños, regardless of any and all
ethnic identifications they may adopt, associate Indianness with rurality
and with backwardness, it is not surprising to find that El Cocal
carries the reputation of being an impoverished, unsanitary, and unsafe
neighborhood.
During my stay in Puerto Cabezas, radio reports frequently decried
the increase of crime in the city that began at the end of the Contra War,
presumably as a result of the demobilization of Contra and Sandinista
troops. These reports often singled out El Cocal as the most crime-
ridden of neighborhoods. I was frequently warned to avoid El Cocal at
night because “los Miskitos de allá” (those Miskitos) assault and rob
people indiscriminately. A frequent explanation given to me for this per-
ceived peril was that El Cocal contained a lot of “bush people” or “gente
de las comunidades” (from the communities) or “upla sinskas” (ignorant
166 Shipwrecked Identities
people in Miskitu) who had fought in the civil war and had retained
their weapons.
The concept of the “community” [Costeño settlement or village] is
a salient native category that carries many highly charged associations,
both negative and positive, for Costeños. Spanish speakers use the term
comunidad and this term is also sometimes used in Miskitu but with the
distinctive Miskitu pronunciation that stresses the first syllable of every
word, thus cómunidad. However, the most common equivalent term used
by Miskitu speakers is tawan, a word that is probably based on the Eng-
lish word “town.” In the Atlantic Coast this term refers specifically to
Costeño villages, not Spanish-speaking campesino villages. Both of these
terms distinguish small, relatively isolated settlements from larger cities
that have had more ties with Pacific Nicaragua and the Caribbean, such
as Puerto Cabezas, Bluefields, Waspám, Rosita, and Siuna.
The fear of Miskitos from the communities represents a new popu-
lar perception of Miskitos that undoubtedly resulted from the Contra
War, in which community residents, especially those along the Coco
River, were recruited and trained (at times forcibly) by the Contras and
the CIA in Honduras to attack Nicaraguan targets. Those Costeños who
fought for the Contras came predominantly from inland rural villages
close to the Honduran border and not from coastal areas farther to the
south, such as Puerto Cabezas. The process of demilitarization and dis-
armament posed serious problems for the UNO (Unión Nacional
Opositora, National Opposition Union) government in the Atlantic
Coast, and indeed all of the country. The fact that many civilians in the
RAAN (the North Atlantic Autonomous Region) have remained armed
creates an environment of uncertainty and unease among Porteños. This
unease is heightened by the frequent reports of supply trucks from the
Pacific being hijacked by roving bands of Miskito ex-combatants on the
remote dirt roads that lead to Puerto Cabezas.
This general feeling of insecurity, whose root lies in the foreign-
sponsored Contra War of the 1980s, manifests itself in the form of eth-
nic, racial, and rural-urban stereotypes and epithets that have proliferated
in the city. Porteños, including Miskitu-speakers, reminisce about the
days before the people from “the communities” arrived, allegedly bring-
ing with them violent behaviors. Other individuals find fodder for argu-
ments about the innate savagery and brutality of Indians in general. José,
Neighborhoods and Official Ethnicity 167
This is how it was. In the first time Noah Columbus lived here with
his family. He was the leader of Bilwi . . . he had the title. Every-
thing was good, lots of food, lots of turtle, no Spaniards. But he
liked to drink rum. One day the boss of Karatá came and as they
started to play cards he brought out some bottles of rum. Noah
Columbus got really drunk—blocked up, man. He kept on losing, he
lost a lot of money. That’s how he lost the title to Bilwi. The boss
from Karatá went home happy. The next morning when Noah woke
up he said, “Oh, shit!”12
The key feature of this story, one that is repeated in many others, is
that Noah Columbus had possessed a legal title that documented his
Neighborhoods and Official Ethnicity 169
personal ownership of Bilwi, and this was lost to people from Karatá as
a result of drunken folly. In other versions, informants emphasized that
the title had come from the Miskito King or the British. In still other
versions, Noah Columbus is said to have gotten drunk off American
whiskey, implying Karatá’s complicity with US companies. In other ver-
sions he is said to have lost the title to Bilwi either after or before the
arrival of Bragman’s Bluff Lumber Company.
For those Porteños who are hostile to Karatá land rights, the story
of Noah Columbus losing the land title exemplifies the arbitrariness of
Indian land claims, because ownership of the land was so frivolously
alienated. For these people, the story also exemplifies the child-like vul-
nerability that they attribute to Indian people. For anti-Indian Porteños
in general, the story serves to confirm the commonly held position that
Indians are savage, uncivilized, and unable to care for themselves in an
urban setting. Specifically, the story confirms another commonly held
prejudice against Miskito men that claims they are unable to “control
their liquor” (tienen mal guaro in Spanish).
On the other hand, for those who support Indian land claims, the
story reinforces the conviction that the region is rightfully Indian tasbaika
regardless of which community holds title to the land. Similarly, the
story serves to reinforce the notion that each Miskito community has at
one time possessed a legal document that guarantees possession of the
land that it occupies from encroachment by the Nicaraguan govern-
ment. Those versions that mention that Noah Columbus received the
title from the British government serve to legitimize Miskito land claims
by appealing to the authority of a country regarded as more important
than Nicaragua. Many Porteños recognize that at some point in the past,
the Miskito King and the British government exercised an alliance in
opposition to the Nicaraguan and Spanish governments.
Nevertheless, I found the issue of the role of the British was not
viewed as particularly important or controversial. For most, King taim
(Miskitu for the period in which the Miskito King, in collaboration
with the British, ruled the region) is viewed as a distant age whose
legacy does not impinge on modern times. The US banana and lumber
companies, rather than the governments of Nicaragua, Great Britain, the
United States, or Mosquito, represent by far the most important actors
in the historical imagination of Porteños.
170 Shipwrecked Identities
therefore turned to the vacant lot between the pier and the Port Author-
ity headquarters as a place in which they should rightfully be allowed to
erect a house.
Immediately upon their digging the first postholes, Port Authority
officials informed them that they were trespassing on Port Authority
land.16 Officials threatened to use the police to stop construction and
ordered the men to remove all building materials from the site. The men
flatly refused, arguing that the land was not being used by the Port
Authority and ironically (given that they shared the pro-Contra tenden-
cies of their neighbors) borrowed a Sandinista agrarian reform slogan
stating that the “land belonged to those who would work it.” They also
organized themselves into an ad hoc commission, called the Comisión
del Barrio El Muelle, which was composed of seventeen families.17 The
Port Authority, hoping for a quick and unequivocal resolution to the
matter, beseeched the police to evict the families, but for a number of
reasons, which I will now outline, this strategic appeal to police author-
ity did not work.
After the election of 1990, which was won by the anti-Sandinista
UNO party, the issue of the partisan nature of the army and police rep-
resented one of the most serious challenges to peace in Nicaragua.18 This
issue was particularly explosive in the northern Atlantic region, adjacent
to Honduras, where Contra activity had been strongest and where the
civil war had been most bitter. Contra leadership agreed to demobilize
and return to Nicaragua only on the condition that they be allowed to
join and at times lead the police forces in the areas in which they
planned to return to. Some factions of the UNO party even demanded
that President Chamorro dissolve the EPS (Sandinista Popular Army)
and replace it with an entirely new army and police force consisting of
ex-Contras and new recruits. Many feared at this time that if Chamorro
were to take such an extreme measure, the EPS would rebel and choose
to not serve the new administration—in effect launching another civil
war. Nicaraguans also feared that the opposing forces would carry out
bloody vendettas against one another once they were united as
civilians within Nicaraguan territory. Chamorro adopted a conciliatory
tactic, reducing the EPS from about 80,000 to 20,000 soldiers and
reappointing Humberto Ortega, brother of former President Daniel
Ortega, as its leader on the condition that he resign from the Sandinista
174 Shipwrecked Identities
been given to this problem. We hope that with our presence [the
national directorate of the Port Authority] . . . we are sure that we
are not going to solve the whole problem but we hope our presence
will at least begin a regional dialogue so that the central govern-
ment, the local authorities, as well as the very Autonomy Law and
the communities can arrive on an integral solution to this prob-
lem—the problem of land ownership. We already were aware of the
majority of the information that our friend Carpentier indicated
with respect to the history of these lands. We even studied the
Harrison-Altamirano Treaty and we looked up the history in order
to better understand this problem. We made a series of interviews
and we collected documentation etc. in order to solve this problem.
It is not necessary to look at the land history nor even at the Har-
rison-Altamirano Treaty, rather more contemporaneously we as a
corporation claim to be the owners of these lands. What I have with
me is a map, a groundplot . . . where it indicates in accordance with
the land documents which are duly registered in Bluefields, which
is where this kind of property is registered, that this is a polygon
here [pointing to the map] that clearly belongs to the Port Author-
ity. . . . According to the people we have interviewed, all say that
they have negotiated with the community of Karawala [sic] partic-
ularly with Mr. Chico Francis. . . . So then what is the reality as such
of these lands? More than 90 percent of them have been taken.
Some [residents] argue that the lands have been given to them by
City Hall, others claim that they have been given by the Port
Authority, but the great majority indicate that they have bought or
leased the land by the community of Karatá. So in this sense I would
correct a bit of what Carpentier said about Karatá . . . only until
recently has a conflict emerged in the Beach. The people with
which at different moments we [the Port Authority] have had a rela-
tionship has been the community of Karatá. . . . But if you speak
with the people around the Cayuco [a bar located in The Beach]
they show you documents given by the community of Karatá.19
the disputed land. Many confirmed the claim that the original inhabi-
tant of the neighborhood was named Casanova but acknowledged that
they were not accustomed to referring to the neighborhood as an
“indigenous community.”
In an interview that I conducted with Ronald Villarreal, one of the
leaders of the seventeen families, he denied the centrality the arguments
made by YATAMA. He regarded these as obscure and trivial historical
arguments. This is not to say that he denied their validity; rather, he
simply did not accept the current relevance of an old and, most impor-
tantly, complicated history. For him, there existed two principal reasons
that he and his neighbors should have access to the land. First, the Port
Authority did not currently use the land in question; and second, the
land belonged to the neighborhood by virtue of its proximity—only a
dirt road leading down to the pier separated The Beach from the dis-
puted land.
Villarreal resented what he perceived as the Port Authority’s indif-
ference with regard to the welfare and rights of the neighborhood. Here
he cited among other grievances the Port Authority’s refusal to consult
the residents of The Beach before making decisions about the disputed
land. This refusal had most recently manifested itself in the case of the
fish-processing plant. He also complained that the Port Authority rarely
hired Beach People on the docks and made no attempt to improve
the infrastructure of the neighborhood. For him, this indifference was
typical of the relationship between the “poor people” of The Beach and
the “rich people” that run the “companies” and “governments.” In this
relationship, Beach People find themselves powerless and easily victim-
ized. He stated, clearly with the current struggle in mind, that rich
people “can always pay someone to draw up a map but poor people
can’t.” The majority of the members of the seventeen families with
whom I spoke shared Villarreal’s disappointment and indignation, and
also expressed a great deal of pessimism with regard to their ability as
poor Beach People to openly confront the authorities in the city. They
did, however, take heart in the fact that they were united, armed, and
willing to fight.
Ultimately, what lay at the core of Villarreal and his neighbors’
claim to the land was the notion that they as poor inhabitants of The
Beach had been neglected by the government and the Port Authority,
Neighborhoods and Official Ethnicity 179
L i ng ui st i c I de olog y and O f f i c i al
Ethnicity in the RAAN
The practice of ethnic and racial identification in Puerto Cabezas
also must be understood in the context of official attempts by the
Nicaraguan government to create ethnic policy. In 1987 the Nicaraguan
government, in an attempt to address the long-standing problem of
political, economic, and social discord between the eastern and western
halves of the country, approved the Statute of Regional Autonomy,
which created a legal and legislative basis for a limited amount of politi-
cal decentralization within the Nicaraguan polity. The Autonomy
Statute replaced the former Atlantic Coast department of Zelaya with
two new administrative units (known as autonomous regions), RAAN
and RAAS, and it also chartered the formation of elected legislative
bodies in each region.20
Although generally welcomed by Costeño political leaders, the
statute has been criticized for its lack of clarity with regard to the juridi-
cal and administrative relationship between the autonomous regions and
the national government. After the election of 1990, in which the first
representatives to the regional assemblies were elected, Costeños on both
the left and right questioned the national government’s commitment to
respecting the spirit of the Autonomy Statute. The implementation (la
reglamentación) of the Autonomy Statute has since that time emerged as
the single most important political project in the region, as regional
leaders have universally recognized that in its current form the statute
lacks the capability to provide for anything more than a token autonomy.
Although completely lacking in muscle with regard to political and eco-
nomic matters, the statute makes, according to many Costeño leaders,
important and novel provisions with regard to cultural matters.
The Autonomy Statute, rather than delineating the duties, rights,
and powers of the regional government with respect to the national
government, devotes itself primarily to recognizing the social hetero-
geneity of the region and guaranteeing inhabitants the right to maintain
Neighborhoods and Official Ethnicity 181
English” better than Miskitu, she said that reading Miskitu was easier for
her than reading English.
In the face of the perceived threat to Creole power in the city in the
postwar period, the issue of the nature of the differences between Cre-
ole and Miskito has become highly politicized. This has resulted in the
attempt by leaders and non-leaders alike to consciously remove per-
ceived mutual influences from their language and culture. This push
towards purification, however, stands in the face of the long-standing
value of cosmopolitanism that has predominated in the region.
English speakers who identify themselves as Creoles often deny or
downplay their command of Miskitu. The act of denying speaking
Miskitu was interpreted as an assertion of social status on the part of such
a person. So, for example, among a multiethnic, multilingual group
of friends that I spent time with, Lutz (a self-proclaimed Creole) was
chided for being “fachente” (conceited in English and Spanish) for claim-
ing that he did not speak Miskitu. Many Creoles admitted to picking up
some Miskitu “in the street” but denied any real fluency. This denial of
Miskitu fluency and refusal to speak Miskitu can be interpreted as a
manifestation of “second order indexicality” in which the linguistic per-
formance of speakers serves primarily as a way of marking social iden-
tity rather than simply communicating information (Graham 2002, 203).
Among Miskitu speakers, I frequently came across the conscious
rejection of English loan words that were perceived to be nonnative to
Miskitu. From a philological point of view, such a rejection is a very
tricky proposition in light of the deep interpenetration of Miskitu and
English due to the historical alliance between the British and the
Miskito that was a precondition for the expansion of the Miskitu lan-
guage in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Nevertheless, I wit-
nessed the impulse among Miskitu speakers to purify Miskitu of English
influence.
During interviews with Miskito political leaders, I noticed that it
had become a common practice when dealing with outsiders (particu-
larly so-called internacionalistas such as myself ) for party leaders to con-
duct the interview in Miskitu with Spanish translation, despite the fact
that all Miskito leaders in Puerto Cabezas were fluent in Spanish. This
practice, also a kind of linguistic indexicality, has become common
among indigenous leaders in Latin America as a way of establishing their
186 Shipwrecked Identities
Miskito culture. With regard to the style of dance, she instructed her
dancers that to dance as a Miskito was to dance in truncated hopping
motions (she used the Spanish term brincadito). She distinguished the
brincadito style from what she called the Black style of dancing, which
used the hips and was sexually suggestive. This distinction was in line
with the common belief in Afro-Caribbean hypersexuality, as well as a
broader Latin American belief in the moral purity of Indians in contrast
to non-Indians.
Continuing with the issue of language, linguistic ideology, and cul-
tural purity, the case of the Rama Indians is revealing on the same score.
According to the Autonomy Statute, the Ramas are a group that has all
but lost their language. According to the historical and anthropological
work done in the region, the inhabitants of Rama Key (a small island in
Bluefields Bay) and its surroundings have to different degrees spoken
both Rama and Mosquito Coast English since the colonial period.
Researchers speculate that the geographical territory of the Rama lan-
guage has shrunk drastically from the seventeenth century to the pres-
ent, having been replaced by both Miskitu and English (Craig 1992;
Salamanca 1993). Historically speaking, Creole and Rama ethnic iden-
tities have not been mutually exclusive, nor have they been plainly
linked to the English or Rama language. The boundary between a Rama
Indian and a Creole, when these identifiers have been used at all, has
always been porous.
Historically, there exist many examples of people with strong famil-
ial ties to the inhabitants of the Rama Keys who used a Creole label and
the English language in their political dealings with Britain and the
Mosquito Government (see Hale 1987a). Yet according to the reasoning
of the Autonomy Statute, a Rama Indian who no longer speaks English
(in favor of Spanish for example) would be not be considered to have
lost their language because Rama identity is rigidly defined as being
linked to the Rama language, not English.
In practice the assumptions of the official ethnicity of the Auton-
omy Statute come into conflict with systems of racial categorization that
exist among people. The case of the Mestizo provides an example of
such dissonance between official and popular racial vocabularies. Gener-
ally, in Latin America the word “Mestizo” refers to a person of mixed
race. In the Pacific regions of Nicaragua, “Mestizo” functions as an
188 Shipwrecked Identities
born in the region to identify themselves as being “del Pacífico” and later
feel obligated to clarify that they were born in the Atlantic Coast:“Yo soy
del Pacífico . . . bueno yo nací aqui pero mi familia es del lado del Pacífico.” (“I
am from the Pacific . . . well, I was born here but my family is from the
Pacific side.”) Thus, a term that has an ostensibly geographical referent
functions within nominally racial- or color-based vocabularies of social
differentiation.
The classificatory scheme of the Autonomy Statute eliminates the
disharmonic term “del Pacífico.” It substitutes “Mestizo,” a term with a
clear racial referent but which is rarely used in the daily life of Costeños,
for “del Pacífico” or “Español” (Spaniard.) Within the popular Costeño
classificatory system, to assert that one is “del Pacífico” is a way of resist-
ing identification as a Creole or Miskito. In this sense it is a negative or
leftover category that functions as a distancing mechanism from the pos-
itive or better established terms of Miskito and Creole. Yet the Auton-
omy Statute recognizes its official substitute, Mestizo, as an ethnic group,
which can be identified according to the same kind of characteristics as
the other ethnic groups of the region.
What, then, does this imply about the principles of official ethnic-
ity as embodied in the Autonomy Statute? What kind of social grouping
does the official ethnicity presume an ethnic group to be? In addition
to the identification of an ethnic group with its native language, the
statute presumes that each “ethnic group” can be identified and defined
according to its particular “culture,” “traditions,” “values,” “art,” “social
organizations,” and “communal, collective and individual property stan-
dards.”24 In addition to language, these are the supposedly objective cri-
teria that distinguish one group from another. The Autonomy Statute
assumes that the Mestizo category indexes an ethnic group in the same
sense as other ethnic groups of the region. The ethnic discourse thus
necessarily defines all ethnic groups as being inherently parallel, self-
evident, social formations. Thus, according to the Autonomy Statute,
the ethnic group is the product of a set of presumably objective charac-
teristics, all regarded as being, in one way or another, cultural.
Chapte r 6
190
Costeño Warriors and Contra Rebels 191
1984, 23). MISURASATA did not make this demand as part of the San-
dinista agrarian reform that distributed large amounts of lands to both
individual peasants and cooperatives in the Pacific. Rather, they
demanded the land as “indigenous peoples” who were “descended from
the original inhabitants of the area” and possessed a “communal [collec-
tive] style of life” that was in a “harmonious ecological equilibrium”
with nature (Ohland and Schnieder 1983, 163). MISURASATA
affirmed that the “right of the indigenous nations over the territory of
their communities holds more importance than the right over the terri-
tory by the state” (ibid.).
The Sandinista government, threatened by statements such as these
that it interpreted as “separatist,” reacted by jailing MISURASATA lead-
ers, an action that resulted in massive Costeño flight from the region and
a surge of Costeño participation in the counterrevolution. Thus, the
confrontation between Sandinistas and Costeños was paralleled by the
increasing self-assertiveness of Costeño leaders as indigenous peoples and
ethnic minorities whose rights devolved from their closeness to nature
(“aboriginal rights”) rather than simply from their rights as citizens of
Nicaragua.5 For a country that had historically presented itself as ethni-
cally homogeneous, the fact that the Sandinista government found itself
at odds with an indigenous and ethnic movement was both unexpected
and enigmatic.
which I include here among Indianists) were well aware that the non-
Costeño Contras would be no more willing to negotiate on these issues.
Immediately as Sandinista-Miskito relations began to sour, Akwe-
sasne Notes, whose editors were in contact with Costeño rebels, expressed
its ambivalence over denouncing the Sandinista treatment of Nicaraguan
Indians:
discussion of the negative ideological and social effects this foreign pres-
ence had on the Miskito people. This history of foreign exploitation
robbed them of the possibility of assuming their true Nicaraguan
“national sentiment” (ibid., 22). It also created mutual resentment
between “the indigene of the Atlantic and the ladino of the Pacific”
(ibid., 23).
A particularly glaring irony of this history for Jenkins Molieri was
that foreigners “made the indigene believe in the goodwill [bondad ] of
his exploiters” (ibid., 26). The inability of the Miskito to recognize the
objective fact that they were “brutally exploited” was rooted in two idio-
syncratic features of the region’s history: (1) “its early articulation in the
english mercantile and colonialist economy,” and (2) “fundamental ele-
ments in the ideological formation of the indigene, particularly the inte-
riorization of the moravian religion” (ibid., 238). It was precisely this
aspect of Miskito consciousness (part of what he called their “social
backwardness”) that caused them to mis-recognize the boon represented
by the Sandinista revolution. Instead they rebelled, thereby failing the
revolutionary challenge to “improve the conditions of their pathetic
existence” (ibid., 23).
For Jenkins Molieri, Miskito people’s long historical ties to the cap-
italist world economy and its English and North American agents
molded them as a distinctly modern people—a modernity that he
argued contradicted their status as Indians. He chided Miskito leaders
and their supporters for appealing to indigenous rights because, accord-
ing to his analysis, this appeal flew in the face of hundreds of years
of capitalist exploitation as wage workers. Referring to the Miskito
activism of the post-revolutionary period, he stated: “The real problem,
which has always been the exploitation of the indigene’s labor and the
permanent alienation of his territory, was hidden craftily behind a mask
of idyllic ethnicism promoted even by the paternalistic and philanthropic
attitudes of anthropologists and religious leaders” (ibid., 239).
The romantic notion of the Indians’ “idyllic” existence, promoted
by the self-romanticizing Miskito leaders and their religious and anthro-
pological advisers, was directly contradicted and indeed undermined, in
Jenkins Molieri’s view, by their historical exploitation as workers.17
According to Jenkins Molieri’s formulation, Sandinista social science
provided a corrective to the tendency of Miskito leaders and indigenists
208 Shipwrecked Identities
to exoticize and “idealize” their own history (ibid., 22). Clearly, his ver-
sion of this social science operated on the assumption that Indianness is
innately pre-modern and pre-capitalist. Departing from this primitivist
set of assumptions, he critiqued the genuineness of the assertion of
indigenous identity by Costeños, whom he viewed as proletarianized,
and therefore un-Indian, Nicaraguans.
It is crucial to note that although Jenkins Molieri aggressively
attacked Miskito appeals to rights as Indians on the grounds that these
were romanticized and ahistorical, he simultaneously assumed some of
the very assumptions about Miskito history and culture on which he
argued these appeals were based. He limited his analysis exclusively to
indígenas (primarily referring to Miskitos), a category whose bounded-
ness he leaves unquestioned. By relying on the unqualified salience of
this term, he unwittingly adopted a fundamental assumption of the posi-
tion he was trying to deconstruct—namely that the Miskito Indians rep-
resent a bounded social group united by race, language, and culture.
Despite consistently emphasizing the impact of foreign influence on the
Miskito, he nevertheless adopted primitivist language to describe the
social structure that resulted from this interaction. That is to say, in his
analysis of the Miskito he embraced stereotypical characteristics com-
monly associated with Indians, such as communal living, harmony with
the environment, closeness to nature, and having distinct culture and
traditions. He wrote:
In the face of the irrational plunder of the natural resources and the
destruction of their environment the Miskitos almost instinctively
reacted by maintaining the steadfastness of their communal life,
exchange relationships, reciprocity, kinship ties, customs, traditions
and language. Granted all of these characteristics were blended with
enormous european, north american and caribbean influences in
such a way that this group [the miskito] took shape as a motley cul-
ture with multiple manifestations but with the stamp of an authen-
tic cultural continuity in continual change. (ibid., 28)
consisted “of ideas, values and notions of common sense” but was not a
“discrete variable or attribute” nor “a set of ideas—much less an ideol-
ogy.” However this ambiguous concept was defined, Hale found himself
in the awkward position of being a White North American anthropolo-
gist (and a self-proclaimed radical one at that) who was placing the term
“Anglo affinity” at the center of an analysis of a rebellious Indian group.22
Hale argued (in opposition to those who criticized the Indian
movement and Indian ideology as false) that Miskito ethnic militancy
actually was at one level very rational. Following Paul Willis’s analysis of
the role of hegemony among working-class high school children in
England, Hale argued that the Miskitos’ analysis of their situation and
the reasons for their plight contained true and important “penetrations”
as to the causes of their plight (Hale 1994b, 25). He stated: “I contend
that the ethnic militancy of the 1980s contained a perceptive critique of
the dominant society, an eloquent series of insights into the structural
and historical factors underlying Miskitu oppression. It entailed an
understanding of the workings of the system and gave rise both to pro-
found feelings of empowerment and an explosive inclination for collec-
tive action” (ibid., 83).
On the other hand, these “penetrations” simultaneously manifested
“limitations,” where the process of resisting one type of oppression
causes one to embrace another form of oppression. Precisely in this
Gramscian formulation of hegemony, in which resistance to one form of
domination creates susceptibility to another form of domination, Hale
offered his solution to the dilemma. An analysis that would incorporate
hegemony (so defined) could both explain Miskito so-called backward-
ness (within a Sandinista framework) and positively analyze the Miskito
worldview on its own terms.
Hale incorporated hegemony into his explanation of the Miskito/
Sandinista clash of the 1980s in the following manner. The Miskito were
historically caught up in two separate “spheres of inequality”: (1) North
American-dominated economy and civil society, and (2) the oppressive
Nicaraguan state (Hale 1990, 22). The Miskito had never openly resis-
ted the Nicaraguan government on a large scale because, from the
moment of Nicaraguan annexation of the region in 1894, the govern-
ment had been complicit with United States companies and the United
States government. This partnership between their historical allies
Costeño Warriors and Contra Rebels 215
Conclusion
219
220 Shipwrecked Identities
was in part rooted to the strategic alliance made between natives of the
Mosquito Coast and the English against the Spanish and Nicaraguans of
the Pacific Coast. Costeños valued their contact with the English as a
civilizing influence, and they adamantly resisted Nicaraguan “reincorpo-
ration” on the grounds that the Nicaraguan rule would place a barrier
to their economic progress. In this sense, the inhabitants of the Mos-
quito Coast region have over time actively and consciously maximized
their interaction with the Caribbean and its particular nexus in the
world economy. In fact, a number of my Porteño informants, when
asked to comment on the ways in which Pacific Nicaraguans perceived
them during “company time” when they traveled to Managua, described
themselves as “dollar men” because Spaniards, in their opinion, per-
ceived Costeños as having greater access to cash, specifically US dollars.
In the continuing climate of economic depression and “abandonment”
in which the region has found itself in the years after the revolution,
Porteños have a harder time living up to their billing as “dollar men,”
particularly in light of the wave of relatively wealthy Pacific Nicaraguans
who returned to Managua from Miami after the Sandinista electoral
defeat, speaking Standard American English (SAE) and carrying US
passports. In complicated and regionally specific ways, these expressions
of cosmopolitanism dovetail with Caribbean constructions of Blackness
and Englishness—discourses to which insiders and outsiders in the Mos-
quito Coast have appealed for hundreds of years.
On the other hand, the Mosquito Coast is part of Mesoamerica, a
Mesoamerica that is renowned, in the scholarly literature, for its Indian
survivals. Again as a result of a number of highly contextual historical
twists of fate, the Mosquito Coast is known, both by insiders and out-
siders, as a place inhabited by Indians. In this regard, the region stands
in contrast to the majority of Nicaragua, Central America, and Latin
America, where the great majority of the population is referred to in a
wide variety of terms such as Ladino, Mestizo, el pueblo (the people),
campesino (peasant), gente humilde (common folk), and del campo
(country folk)—all terms that are used in contrast to “real” Indians. As
Indians, Costeños have been associated with a series of stereotypical
traits, some more insidious than others, that place them on par with a
static and unchanging natural world that stands in contrast to a dynamic
modern world. David Frye identified this tendency to view Indians as
inherently unchanging as a “colonial ideology” (Frye 1996, 10).
Conclusion 223
1. Texas
2. California
3. Ukraine
4. South Africa
5. RAAN [the North Atlantic Autonomous Region]
227
228 Notes to Pages 6–13
cultural politics in the region in which some Costeños and others are attempt-
ing to conceptually purify socio-racial categories that in practice are flexible.
7. The Contra War starting in 1980 pitted the newly formed armed forces of the
Sandinista government, which came to power by overthrowing Nicaraguan
dictator Anastasio Somozo in 1979, against the US-backed Contras whose
ranks included former National Guard troops and leaders. The Contras
attacked Nicaraguan targets primarily from bases in Honduras along the bor-
der with Nicaragua. In the Mosquito Coast, many Costeños joined the Con-
tras and operated under their own leadership and in their own region (on the
eastern part of the Honduras border) under the larger Contra organizational
structure that was led by Nicaraguans from the Pacific. Although most of the
units of Costeños had demobilized before the late 1980s, some retained their
arms well after the elections of 1990 that removed the Sandinista administra-
tion from office.
8. Costeños use the term “community” (comunidades in Spanish, and comunidad
nani or tawan nani in Miskitu) to refer to the region’s settlements. It is a very
important concept and I will return to it at length in chapters 4 and 6.
9. The distinction that I make between primitivism and cosmopolitanism reca-
pitulates the civilization vs. nature dichotomy that Fredrick Pike fruitfully
explored in his historical analysis of United States-Latin American relations
in the Americas, titled The United States and Latin America: Myths and Stereo-
types of Civilization and Nature (Pike 1992). However, in contrast to Pike, who
focuses on the ways in which North Americans applied this flawed worldview
to Latin Americans, I recognize that within Nicaragua (and the Americas
generally) this framework is adopted in varying degrees by those very indi-
viduals who North Americans have viewed as primitive. Hence a primitivist
ideology does not easily index a defined group of people (e.g., North Ameri-
cans, Latin Americans, Pacific Nicaraguans, Costeños). Rather, it is part of a
complex of ideas that are expressed in a contextual way across a broad spec-
trum of regions and social groups.
10. Concepts such as culture, race, identity, and ethnicity have become highly
politically charged and often appear at the center of contentious political
struggles and social movements in the modern world. The studied articula-
tion and internalization of these concepts within modern Latin American
social movements represents a principal distinguishing feature of what Sonia
Alvarez and Arturo Escobar define as new social movements, which they
contrast to old class-based movements (Alvarez, Dagnino, and Escobar 1998,
6; Alvarez and Escobar 1992, 3;Wade 1997, 95) such as the crushed national-
popular projects (Hale 1997, 573) of Latin America. With regard to the cur-
rent wave of indigenous activism in the Americas, Michael Kearney identifies
a modern process of new ethnicity in which the construction of ethnicity by
contemporary indigenous people has become and is becoming, more of a
conscious, intentional activity than before (Kearney 1996, 10; also see Brysk
1996, 2000; Messer 1995; Wright 1988).
11. In an article that reviews the rise of the cultural politics of identity, Charles
Hale identifies this problematic entanglement of analyst’s lens and topic of
study in Latin American anthropology (Hale 1997, 569; see Jackson 1995, 16,
and Handler 1988 for a similar observation). This phenomenon represents an
element of a larger crisis of representation (Marcus and Fischer 1986) and a
related crisis in confidence (Watanabe 1994, 25) that has left anthropologists
calling into question not only the value of their traditional methods and
Notes to Pages 13–15 229
rhetorics but also the virtue of the anthropological enterprise in light of the
structures of inequality in which they operate.
12. I put the word “debate” in quotation marks here because, to quote Johannes
Fabian, “I don’t know of any essentialists calling themselves essentialist.”
Fabian recognizes that these two labels are currently employed to mark posi-
tions, but he disputes the way that this debate is framed on the grounds that
“essentialism is essentially an ontological position; it asserts a reality, in this
case Maya identity. Constructivism (at least in the understanding of someone
who has been put in that corner) marks an epistemological position. It
regards the conditions of possibility of, in this case, knowing what Maya iden-
tity might be. Put somewhat differently, essentialism is one of the things
constructivists try to understand” (Fabian 1999, 490).
13. This theoretical move closely corresponds to a similar moment in the 1960s
and 1970s when social scientists, sparked to some degree by the controversy
surrounding Clifford Geertz’s essay on primordial identity (Geertz 1963),
proposed boundary maintenance (Barth 1969) and interest group models
as a foil to static trait-oriented or culture-as-things (Jackson 1994, 385)
approaches to politicized cultural, racial, and ethnic groups.
14. See the recent work of Kay Warren (1998, 1999) for a provocative example
from Guatemala. Also see Christopher Brumann’s appeal (1999) to retain the
concept of culture, as well as Abu-Lughod responses in a 1999 issue of
Current Anthropology dedicated to this topic.
15. Here Fernandez adds to Jean Jackson’s provocatively titled article, “Is There A
Way to Talk about Making Culture without Making Enemies?”
16. Hobsbawm and Ranger’s provocative volume, The Invention of Tradition,
would have to be considered the prime example of this approach (Hobsbawm
and Ranger 1983). The following work also stands out in my mind: Bourri-
caud 1975; Diskin 1991; Hahn 1996; Handler 1988; Handler and Linnekin
1984; Herzfeld 1982; Jackson 1994, 1995; Vail 1989; Williams 1991. I would
also include Friedlander’s passionately written polemic on forced identity in
Mexico in which she decries the elite Mexican glorification of the Mexican
Indian while simultaneously using Indian identification as a strategy of mar-
ginalization (Friedlander 1975, 1976). Kay Warren’s earlier work in Guatemala
dealt with this theme (Warren 1989, 1993).
17. This is not to say that this approach is inherently antagonistic or that those
that I identify as falling into this camp literally make enemies in the fieldwork
setting, but rather that the analyses that they make of the cultural production
of the group or groups that they study calls into question or potentially
undermines at some level the premises of this cultural production that is prac-
ticed by one or more of the groups with whom they are involved.
18. In this group I include anthropologists who explicitly recognize that the
appeals to culture and identity of the people they study have emerged as
strategies of resistance that are forged in a highly politicized context. They,
however, are hopeful and optimistic about the unifying potential of
these strategies. In the Latin American context I include the following
authors: Brysk 2000; Gandin 1997; Gossen 1996; Kearney and Nagengast
1990; Kearney 1996; Kidd 1995; Nash 1995; C. Smith 1991; Ströbele-Gregor
1996; Varese 1996; Warren 1999; Watanabe 1994; Whitten 1996; R. Wilson
1995.
19. In doing so I follow the lead of anthropologists, historians, and social
scientists who have innovatively responded to the challenge of practicing
230 Notes to Pages 15–23
31. See Romero Vargas and Gabbert for thorough historical accounts of slavery,
both Indian and African, in the Mosquito Coast (Romero Vargas 1995,
273–296; Gabbert 1992, 38–70).
32. Although Exquemelin’s account has been cited in the historical literature as
one of the first to employ the term “Mosquito Indian,” he uses the term only
once (Exquemelin 1685, 158). He most commonly uses the phrase “Indians
of the Cape” and “Indians of those parts.”
33. In the mid-1980s, US anthropologists Michael Olien, Phillip Dennis, and
Mary Helms filled the pages of the American Ethnologist with a lively debate
about political authority in the Mosquito Kingdom (Dennis and Olien 1984;
Helms 1986). Dennis and Olien argued that, contrary to Nicaraguan and US
nineteenth-century claims as to its falsity, the Mosquito Kingdom and the
Mosquito king represented very real and durable institutions that had deep
roots in Miskito culture. Helms argued that Dennis and Olien had overstated
their case and that in actuality the historical truth lay somewhere in between
the US and Nicaraguan critics’ of the Mosquito Kingdom as a “British pup-
pet” and Dennis and Olien’s Mosquito Kingdom as a “centralized political
structure” that endured for 240 years (Helms 1986, 506).
34. For example, Gabbert estimates that in 1757, African slaves numbered 500
and Indian slaves 300 of the total regional population of 8,124. The number
of whites, 154, paled in comparison to the number of free Indians, 7,000
(Gabbert 1992, 55).
35. According to Helms, in Jamaica before the stabilization of an economy based
on African slave labor, Indians slaves helped to fill, at least in part, the eco-
nomic gap created by the curtailing of buccaneering in 1685 and the ceasing
of the flow of white indentured labor in 1700. She claims that the lack of
documentation of the use of mainland Indian labor in Jamaica owes to the
fact that primarily “struggling small farmers” used Indian labor, which was
significantly cheaper than African slave labor (Helms 1983, 185).
36. In 1832 Mosquito King Robert Charles Frederic passed a law that forbade
the taking of Indian slaves (Olien 1983, 222).
37. The newly independent Central American Republic outlawed slavery in
1824 (Naylor 1989, 256).
38. Bartolomé de Las Casas, famous Spanish witness to the “devastation of the
Indies,” estimated that the Spanish sent a half-million Indian slaves to Panama
and Peru (Las Casas 1992 [1552], 56). Newson has confirmed this figure
(Newson 1987, 105). See William L. Sherman’s Forced Native Labor in
Sixteenth-Century Central America for an exhaustive treatment of the slave trade
in Nicaragua (Sherman 1979).
39. During the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, the English typically
referred to the region as the Mosquito Shore or simply Mosquito.
40. Robert Hodgson, the first British superintendent of the Mosquito Shore,
firmly believed in the tremendous strategic importance of the Mosquito
Indians in the British struggle against Spain. In 1741 he wrote to Governor
Trelawny of Jamaica, “By the help of our friends the Mosquito Indians I
should imagine we might induce, by the offer of liberty, the neighboring
Indians to revolt. Indeed I do not think it romantick in the least to expect
that we might, by supporting the Indians a little, spread the revolt from one
part to another, till it should be general over the Indies, & drive the Spaniards
entirely out” (Potthast 1988, 123).
Notes to Pages 54–71 235
41. See Karl Offen’s PhD dissertation for an extended discussion of the role of
English symbols of prestige for the Miskito Indians (Offen 1999, 352–395).
42. Many Miskito villages did not fall within the geographical boundaries set by the
Treaty of Managua for the Mosquito Reservation. The entire Coco River was
not subject to the Treaty of Managua and instead became part of Nicaraguan ter-
ritory that was named the Comarca Cabo Gracias a Dios. Karl Offen argues that
the boundary of the Mosquito Reserve neatly corresponds to the boundary
between the Tawira Miskito and the Sambo Miskito (Offen 2002).
43. The “Great Awakening” is the term given by the Moravian Missionary
Church, which started to evangelize in the region in the early 1800s, to the
mass conversion of Miskito Indians to Christianity in the 1880s. See Lioba
Rossbach for a description of Moravian-Miskito relations in the nineteenth
century (Oertzen, Rossbach, and Wunderich, 1990).
44. The full text of the Harrison-Altamirano Treaty is reprinted in Oertzen,
Rossbach, and Wunderich (1990, 436–437.)
45. The formalization of Indian and Creole lands stood in the way of this process
of heightened penetration of capital by which the Mosquito Coast was
becoming more and more an “enclave economy.” The government granted
monstrous parcels of land to foreign companies, ignoring the claims of Indian
villages. For example, the Emery Company of Massachusetts was granted a
parcel one-tenth the size of the region. In 1903 one grant, which was later
annulled, gave the Dietrick Company the rights to the exploitation of an area
one-fourth the size of Nicaragua (Vilas 1989, 43). The work of surveying and
giving titles was not seriously begun until 1915, when the land commission
began to function. Between 1915 and 1920, 121,179 acres were set aside for
forty-five Sumu and Miskito villages. One way the government avoided its
responsibility was to require that the Indian villages pay for the surveys of the
land they claimed, or pay for a new survey when this land came into dispute.
the San Juan River, which flows from the Lake of Nicaragua, in the heart of
the Spanish-controlled half of Nicaragua, to the Caribbean Sea. English and
Miskito raiders continually used this route to sack Nicaraguan cities. From
early colonial times to the time of construction of the Panama Canal, the
route was regarded as ideal for a canal between the oceans.
15. According to the 1920 Nicaraguan census, the three Atlantic Coast counties
which composed about half of the national territory contained only 43,698
inhabitants, 7 percent of the national population (República de Nicaragua
1920). Indeed, Nicaragua’s Atlantic Coast continues to be one of the most
sparsely populated regions in all of Central America.
16. In present day Nicaragua it is the common perception that Costeños have
darker skin than Pacific Nicaraguans because of their African and Indian
heritage—a heritage that has historically been denied in the Pacific Coast.
Although there does exist a very dark-skinned minority in the Atlantic Coast
and a very light-skinned minority in the Pacific Coast, it has not been my
perception that (apart from these minorities) the majority of Costeños have
darker skin than the majority of Pacific Nicaraguans. This observation is, of
course, very subjective and ultimately irrelevant.
17. Jeffrey Gould demonstrates that in the Pacific region at the turn of the cen-
tury, many communities that identified themselves as Indians began to iden-
tify themselves as Ladinos and Mestizos as their lands were expropriated by
coffee growers. Gould contrasts this relatively recent shift to the widespread
Nicaraguan belief that Nicaragua possesses a racially homogenous population—
a belief he labels the “myth of Nicaragua mestiza” (Gould 1993a).
18. Puerto Cabezas was named after General Rigoberto Cabezas, the Nicaraguan
officer who in 1894 militarily occupied Bluefields, effectively overthrowing
the Mosquito government.
19. It is important to note that these figures are of highly questionable accuracy
considering Ruiz’s attempt to discredit Miskito land claims in Puerto Cabezas
by claiming that the city is not a legitimate Miskito community and is rather
a recently inhabited Mestizo city.
20. Modern inhabitants of the city recall that until the cessation of US lumber
operations in the area (1979), this area of town was known as the “zone” or
“American zone.” In chapter 4, I explore Porteño memories of “company
time” in the zone.
21. By the beginning of the twentieth century, rural Nicaraguans in the Pacific
region who in the past had been labeled as Indians came to be identified
according to the non-racially-marked term campesino. The indigenous com-
munities in urban neighborhoods of Sutiava and Monimbó, located respec-
tively in the major Pacific Nicaraguan cities of León and Masaya, represent a
notable exception to this rule. These neighborhoods have throughout the
twentieth century been identified in many contexts as Indian communities,
and they manifest some of the typical Latin American “closed corporate
community” institutional features, such as communal land holdings, “cargo”
arrangements, and “cofradías.” These institutions continue to exist in other
Pacific Nicaraguan communities, but what is distinct about Sutiava and
Monimbó is that they are communities that regard themselves as Indians. See
García Breso (1992) and Gould (1993b) for a description of Indian identity
in the Pacific.
22. After the “Reincorporation” of 1894, Costeño leaders vehemently con-
demned this practice on the part of the national government in Managua.
238 Notes to Pages 106–113
this trip and the low quality of the Bluefields area port facilities, goods and
materials of Pacific origin destined for international markets are most fre-
quently transported from Pacific Nicaraguan ports to the Atlantic Ocean via
the Panama Canal. The Bluefields-Managua land route is primarily used to
transport goods and materials of domestic production and consumption. As a
result of Bluefields’s accessibility, albeit limited, vis-à-vis Pacific Nicaragua, it
has in the twentieth century captured the majority of the domestic Pacific-
Atlantic commerce. Puerto Cabezas, on the other hand, has since its abrupt
birth in the 1920s been primarily an international port that links the north-
ern Mosquito Coast “enclave” to North America and the Caribbean.
15. As the Standard Fruit Company expanded its operations in Nicaragua, it
bought majority shares in two US commercial companies that operated stores
in the Atlantic Coast: the Wawa Boom Company and the Bluefields Mercan-
tile Company (Karnes 1978, 115–117). These takeovers speak to the import-
ance to the company of adding retail commerce to their resource-based
business.
16. “Aqui en Puerto uno tenía, pues, del todo. Si no lo encontrabas donde los
gringos lo encontrabas donde los chinos aqui en la calle commercial. Llegaban
todas las semanas barcos llenos de productos que venían directo de los Estados
Unidos y eran productos buenos, los mismos que los gringos usaban—botas
de hule, jabones, camisas, lo que fuera. Y repuestos para motores? De toda
clase. Aqui la vida era muy buena.”
17. I discuss the Chinese community of Puerto Cabezas in a 2001 article titled
“The Chinese Creoles of Nicaragua: Identity, Economy and Revolution in a
Caribbean Port City” (Pineda 2001a).
18. During the Constitutionalist War of the late 1920s, Bragman’s Bluff Lumber
Company charged the Liberal Forces in Puerto Cabezas for use of the com-
pany radio that was used to communicate with the Pacific Coast. When the
Liberals could not pay their radio bill, the company refused service—thereby
leaving the Liberal “provisional government” without communications. This
case illustrates the degree to which US companies possessed resources and
infrastructure in the Atlantic Coast greater than that of the Nicaraguan
governmental, or quasi-governmental, factions.
19. In Asang, Helms identified an “ethic of poverty” among Miskito Indians
who, despite the “soundness of the subsistence economy,” suffered the
absence of cash and foreign products in the depressed coastal economy of the
1960s (Helms 1971, 156).
20. See T. M. Scruggs for a thorough discussion of the role of music in the con-
struction of Nicaraguan nationalism (Scruggs 1999).
21. Census data from Nicaragua confirm this perception for the Mosquito Coast
as a whole. Using the 1920 census, if we calculate the percentage of non-
Central American foreigners within the total population, we find that the
three Atlantic departments, Comarca San Juan del Norte, Bluefields, and
Comarca Cabo Gracias a Dios, contain the three highest values, 10.9 percent,
6.3 percent, and 1.4 percent, respectively. Managua, the capital city of the
republic, comes in a distant fourth at 0.84 percent, while the populous
departments of Chontales and Nueva Segovia contained only 0.06 percent
non-Central American foreigners (República de Nicaragua 1920, 4).
22. “Kampani time ra upla manas nara iwi kan . . . States wina, Jámaica wina,
Germany wina, Cayman wina, Pánama wina, diara sut. Nation bani ba Bilwi
ra balan wark daukaia dukiara. Bilwi tawan tara kan.”
Notes to Pages 125–129 241
23. Helms noted a similar use of “nation” in the Coco River Miskito village in
which she worked in the late 1960s (Helms 1971, 158, 218).
24. The use of Puerto Cabezas for military purposes by the US armed forces
arose almost immediately after its creation by Bragman’s Bluff Lumber Com-
pany. Karl Mueller, a Moravian Missionary who visited Puerto Cabezas in
1927, described the city in the following manner: “Bragman’s Bluff is the
name of the elevation (ca. 90 ft.) on the coast, on which the industrial and
administrative town of Puerto Cabezas (ca. 2,500 inhabitants, mostly British
and American) is built. The town has a well-built dock, an ice plant, a large
Department Store (The Commissary Department of the Company), railroad
yards, round house, and repair shops, and above all a sawmill, capable of cut-
ting 55,000 feet of lumber per day. It has a fine hospital, a creditable club
house, ball grounds and tennis courts, and at present is the headquarters of
the American Marines for the upper coast, with a considerable garrison, a US
war vessel stationed in its harbor and 2 US aeroplanes regularly stationed in
the flying-field” (Mueller 1931, 67).
25. See LeGrand (1984) for a treatment of agrarian politics in a United Fruit
Company banana region on the Caribbean coast of Colombia; see May and
Plaza (1958) for a pro-company perspective on the role the United Fruit
Company in the Caribbean; also see Chomsky (1996) for an excellent treat-
ment of labor and race relations in a banana-exporting region of Costa Rica
that has many of the same Anglo vs. Spanish and West Indian vs. Central
American dynamics as the Mosquito Coast.
26. Helms’ definition of peasantry, which she derived from the Mesoamerican
anthropology of Redfield (1956), Wolf (1966), and Foster (1967), is as good
as any for my purposes: “Rural cultivators who carry on agriculture as a
traditional way of life, rather than for profit in a capitalistic sense, and
part of whose is tapped by the state in order to support is own structure and
activities” (Helms 1971, 4).
27. North American anthropologist Eduard Conzemius, who conducted field-
work in the Mosquito Coast in the 1920s, made the following observations:
“Rice is rarely cultivated and has been introduced recently; it is known by its
English or Spanish name . . . it differs considerably from the native wild rice
of tropical America.” He also noted that beans “are grown to a very small
extent by either Miskito or Sumu . . . it is very probable that beans have been
introduced only in recent times” (Conzemius 1932, 63).
28. Using official Nicaraguan agricultural census data from 1963 and 1971, Vilas
determined that the total acreage dedicated to farming in the Department
of Zelaya (the pre-revolution name of the region) increased by 60 percent,
from 468,000 acres to 774,000 acres (Vilas 1989, 73). Also, the number of
cattle doubled. Vilas also noted a marked rise in the number of agricultural
workers: “The number of self-employed agricultural workers grew 40
percent between 1963 and 1971, and the number of unpaid family members
grew 38 percent; the two occupational categories, which together in 1963
constituted 66 percent of the economically active agricultural population in
Zelaya, grew to 90 percent in 1971, possibly as result of the expansion of the
agricultural frontier through immigration both spontaneous and planned”
(Vilas 1989, 72).
29. It seems that Rio Coco rice and bean production filled the gap left by the bust
of Standard Fruit banana operations, which had been particularly aggressive
in their attempts to keep Costeño workers dependent on foreign products,
242 Notes to Page 129
research institute during this time of armed conflict and intense international
scrutiny (ibid.).
32. Tuno is a rubber-like raw material used in the production of chewing gum.
33. Such was the level of deforestation in the northern Atlantic region that when
NIPCO closed in 1963, Nicaragua for the first time became a net importer
of wood (Jenkins Molieri 1986, 206).
34. For example, ATCHEMCO fenced in the offices and industrial installations
of the company in an area known as “la zona.” Nicaraguans were not allowed
to enter the zone without permission. According to a study carried out by
Nicaraguan sociologist Sandra Gómez, a rigid ethnic hierarchy operated in La
Tronquera in which North Americans occupied the highest rung, followed
by Creoles and then Miskito Indians (Gomez 1991, 51–57).
35. Mining companies, discouraged by the difficulty of building and maintaining
the roads between the mines and Puerto Cabezas, commonly transported
materials to and from Puerto Cabezas by plane. In the 1940s the mining city
of Siuna, run by the Neptune Gold Mining Company of the United States,
which had seven hundred employees and “the best hospital in the country,”
was essentially unapproachable by land (Talleres Gráficos Pérez 1941, 12).
36. The parallels between prewar Puerto Cabezas and the postwar mining cities
are striking. In the absence of Nicaraguan governmental structures, there
came to exist a “de facto government-citizen relationship between the com-
pany and local workers” (T. Adams 1981, 64). Companies paid the salaries of
the police. Taxes on the minerals, mostly gold, that they extracted were
avoided by paying kickback money to the Somoza dictatorship.
37. The majority of Sumu speakers, particularly men, also speak Miskito (Sala-
manca 1993; Áviles Campo 1993).
38. During the 1950s the government began its first concerted effort to take
charge of the educational system in the region and enforce its policy of
Spanish-only instruction. Before this, the Moravian Church was almost
exclusively responsible for education, instructing in English and Miskitu.
Public schools were set up all along the coast and the Rio Coco. Spanish
slowly began to replace English as the second language of the Miskito.
Creoles also began to take on Spanish as a second language. In the 1970s the
government began to offer scholarships to Miskito and Creole youths to
study in Nicaraguan universities. The majority of the Miskito leaders who
emerged after the Revolution were educated in Managua.
39. Notable exceptions to this generalization were the Moravian schools at
Waspám and Bilwaskarma, which were top-of-the-line Miskito schools.
40. At the recommendation of a 1953 World Bank delegation, these forest
reserves began to be established in 1959 as part of the Proyecto Forestal del
Norte that was spearheaded by INFONAC (Instituto de Fomento Nacional).
The purpose of this project was to reforest pine savannas devastated by North
American lumber companies, combat forest fires, and establish in the future
wood-pulp and paper-processing complexes (Vilas 1989, 63).
41. The Catholic Church has been the second-strongest church in the region
since the turn of the century. However, Catholic activities in the region have
been primarily instigated by the North American-run Capuchin Mission,
which has operated independently of the Nicaraguan Catholic Bishopric in
the Pacific region. In 1970 the Moravian Church estimated its membership
at 30,000 out of a total regional population of 75,000. During the same time,
244 Notes to Pages 136–139
en aquel entonces ellos eran los únicos que vivían en Bilwi. ¿Vos sabés que
este pueblo se llama Bilwi en Miskito? Todo esto donde estamos nosotros era
puro monte. Allí en El Cocal es donde empezó Bilwi.”
10. According to a survey made by the Ministry of Housing in 1983, El Cocal’s
population was 88 percent Miskito, 12 percent Mestizo, and 0 percent Cre-
ole. Out of the twenty neighborhoods identified by the survey, only “Barrio
Sandino” and “Barrio Germán Pomares” had higher percentages of Miskito
residents. It is significant to note that both of these neighborhoods represent
new settlements that were populated primarily by Miskito refugees fleeing
the war and evacuation suffered along the Coco River in the early 1980s.
According to a Ministry of Health survey conducted in 1981 in the midst of
the refugee crisis, El Cocal already represented the most populous neighbor-
hood of Puerto Cabezas, with 1,596 residents and 166 houses. More recent
estimates put the population at 2,900, with 90 percent identified as Miskito
(Muñoz 1992, 265).
11. “Antes la gente se agarraba a vergazos . . . a veces a puñalazos si era cosa seria.
Pero ahora con estos Miskitos si peleás con uno de ellos vuelven a su casa y
luego te matan el la calle con un AKA.”
12. “Naku sika. Pas taim Noah Columbus witin kiamka wal nara iwi kan. Witin
Bilwi tah kan . . . título bri kan. Diara sut pain kan, plun manas, lih manas,
ispail apu Sakuna witin guaro laik kan. Yu kum Karatá baska nara balan. Naipe
pulan bara ron bottle kum kum saki munan. Noah Columbus uba blah
takan—blocked up, man. Lus baman . . . lalah manas lus takan. Baku witin bui
Bilwi titleka lus takan. Karata baska ba lilia mahka wan. Titan buan taim,
Noah bila: ‘Oh shit.’ ”
13. I discussed this case in a previously published article, as well as my PhD dis-
sertation at the University of Chicago (Pineda 1998, 2001b).
14. According to a language survey of Puerto Cabezas conducted by a team of
German and North American researchers in the mid 1980s, 35 percent of
Miskito respondents and 51 percent of Creole respondents claimed to be
trilingual. Four hundred and fifty Porteños in different neighborhoods were
surveyed, 52 percent of whom were labeled by the researchers as Miskito, 22
percent as Mestizo, and 10 percent as Creole. The Beach was specifically
included because researchers regarded it as a Creole English-speaking neigh-
borhood. I observed that very few Beach People used the term “Creole”
in any social context, although they did emphasize the fact that they spoke
English (Meschkat 1987).
15. In general, my research strategy with regard to matters of identity was to rec-
ognize and use the categories of identification that my informants offered,
rather than to compel them conform to my own categories or official cate-
gories. Not a single resident of The Beach I interviewed would naturally
respond to a question using the term “ethnic group” or “étnia” because this
type of language simply did not enter into common usage. Therefore, on
those occasions where I did want to probe the self-identification of inform-
ants with regard to official ethnic categories, I would simply list these official
ethnic groups and ask them to identify themselves with one or more of them.
For example, “What are you then—Miskito, Creole, or Mestizo?” I do not
presume that solely because an informant, in response to my query, should
identify themselves in a particular way that they therefore were, to use the
problematic phrasing of a certain kind of misguided multiculturalism, a
248 Notes to Pages 171–176
“member” of that group. It has been my experience that Porteños use ethnic
terminology in a very fluid and context-bound manner. Therefore, any
instance of ethnic identification or labeling must be understood in the con-
text in which it was produced. See Gabbert (2001) for a fruitful approach to
ethnic categories in the case of the Yucatan.
16. In contrast to the rest of Nicaragua, houses in the Atlantic Coast are typically
built entirely of wood and are elevated off the ground from about two to as
much as eight feet by large circular posts that are inserted into the ground.
Pacific houses are typically made of concrete or adobe on top of a concrete
foundation.
17. In the last thirty years as Nicaraguan government presence has increased,
especially after the Sandinista Revolution of 1979, Spanish has been increas-
ingly used by Porteños in official contexts, particularly those that require
dealing with local and national governmental institutions.
18. After overthrowing the Somoza dictatorship in 1979, the Sandinista Direc-
torate created an entirely new police force and army known as the EPS,
Sandinista Popular Army.
19. “Este es un problema muy difícil . . . muy difícil porque han pasado muchos
años y han pasado muchos gobiernos y no se ha dado una solución completa
a este problema. Esperamos aqui con nuestra presencia [the national direc-
torate of the Port Authority] . . . estamos seguros que no vamos a solucionar
todo el problema pero por lo menos con nuestra presencia iniciar un diálogo
regional para que tanto como el gobierno central como las autoridades locales
y la ley misma de autonomía y las comunidades lleguen a una solución inte-
gral de este problema . . . el problema de la tenencia de tierra. . . . La gran
parte de lo que indicaba el amigo Carpentier acerca de la historia de estos ter-
renos ya la habíamos manejado, inclusive nosotros hemos estudiado el Tratado
Harrison-Altamirano y nos hemos metido en la historia para comprender más
el problema. Hemos hecho una seria de entrevistas, hemos buscado docu-
mentación etcétera para darle solución a este problema. No es necesario mirar
ni a la historia de la propiedad ni al mismo Tratado Harrison, sino un poco
mas contemporaneo nosotros como empresa indicamos ser propietarios de
estos terrenos. Esto que está aqui conmigo es un mapa, un plano . . . donde
indica de acuerdo a los documentos de propiedad que estan debidamente reg-
istrados en Bluefields, que es donde se registra este caracter de propiedad, que
hay una polygonal aqui [pointing to the map] que claramente pertenece a la
Portuaria. . . . Por la gente que nos hemos entrevistado todo indican que han
hecho negociaciones directas con la comunidad de Karawala [sic] concreta-
mente con el Señor Chico Francis. . . . ¿Entonces cual el la realidad en si de
todos estos terrenos? Mas de la noventa por ciento en la practica han sido
tomados. Hemos hecho nosotros entrevistas con las personas. Unos han argu-
mentado que han sido dados directamente por la Alcaldía, otros nos indican
que han sido dados directamente por la Portuaria, pero la gran mayoría indi-
can que han sido dadosen calidad de venta o arrienda de parte de la comu-
nidad de Karatá. Entonces en este sentido yo corregiria un poco a lo que
decía Carpentier con respecto a lo de Karatá . . . hasta hoy surge en el
conflicto el barrio El Muelle. Con quien hemos estado en diferentes momen-
tos vinculados ha sido con la gente de la comunidad de Karatá. . . . Pero si
Uds. hablan con la gente alrededor del Cayuco enseñan documentos dados
por la comunidad de Karatá.”
Notes to Pages 180–191 249
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269
270 Index