A Handbook For Travellers in Spain PDF
A Handbook For Travellers in Spain PDF
A Handbook For Travellers in Spain PDF
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'RDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERSD
IN
SPAIN.
BY RICHARD FORD, F.S.A.
PART I.
E
! THIRD EDITION,
EXTIRELY REVISED, WITH GREAT ADDITIONS.
LONDON:
I JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
PARIS: GALIGNANI AND CO.; AND STASSIN AND XAVIER.
GIBRALTAR: GEORGE RO\\'SWELL.—MALTA: MUIR.
1855.
THE ENGLISH EDITIONS OF MURRAY’S HANDBOOK8 MAY BE OBTAINED OF THE
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‘T0
RICHARD FORD.
(4)
NOTICE.
security, are first pointed out in the Introduction. The Provinces are
then described one after another. The principal lines of high roads,
cross-communications, names of inns, and quality of accommodation,
are detailed, and the best seasons of the year for exploring each route
suggested. Plans of tours are drawn up, and the best lines laid down
for specific and specified objects. The peculiarities of districts and
towns are noticed, and a short account given of the local antiquities,
religion, art, scenery, and manners. This work, the fruit of many
years’ wandering in the Peninsula, is an humble attempt to furnish in
the smallest compass, the greatest quantity of useful and entertaining
information. Those things which every one, when on the spot, can see
with his own eyes, are seldom described minutely; stress is laid upon
what to observe, leaving it to the spectator todraw his own conclusions ;
nor is everything that can be seen set down, but only what is really
worth seeing,—nec omnia dicentur (as Pliny says, ‘ Nat. Hist.,’ xiv. 2),
sed maxime insignia; and how often does the wearied traveller rejoice
when no more is to be “ done ;” and how does he thank the faithful
pioneer, who, by having himself toiled to see some “local lion,” has
saved others the tiresome task, by his assurance that it is not worth the
time or trouble.
The philosophy of Spain and Spaniards, and things to be known,
not seen, have never been neglected; therefore dates, names, facts,
and matters are mentioned by which local interest may be enhanced.
Curiosity is awakened, rather than exhausted; for to do that would
require many more such volumes as this. But as next to knowing a
thing oneself, is the knowing where to find it, sources of fuller informa
tion are cited, from whence this skeleton framework may be filled
up, whilst such a reference to the best authorities on nice occasions,
offers a better guarantee than any mere unsupported statement; and
the author whose object is truth, and whose wish is to have his views
disseminated, must feel much flattered to find the good use his pages
have been of to many authors, gentlemen and ladies too.
In Spain, a few larger cities excepted, libraries, newspapers, cicerones,
and those resources which so much assist the traveller in other countries
of Europe, are among the things that are not: therefore the provident
traveller should carry in his saddle-bags food both for mind and body,
some supply of what he can read and eat, in this hungry land of the un
informed. A little more is now aimed at than a mere book of roads, or
description of the husk of the country. To see the cities, and know the
minds of men, has been, since the days of the Odyssey, the object of
travel: but how “ difificult is it,” in the words of the Great Duke
(Disp., Dec. 13, 1810), “ to understand the Spaniards exactly l” Made
up of contradictions, they dwell in the land of the unexpected, le pays de
Panmcn TO run rnmn EDITION.‘ 7
l’imp1'e'vu, where exception is the rule; where accident and the impulse
of the moment are the moving powers; a land where men, especially in
their collective capacity, act like women and children; where a spark, a
trifle, sets the impressionable masses in action, and where no one can
foresee the commonest events, which baffle the most rational and well
founded speculations. An explosion may occur at any moment; nor
does any Spaniard ever attempt to guess beyond la situacimz actual, or to.
foretell what the morrow will bring : that he leaves to the foreigner,
who does not understand him--accordingly, sufiicient for the day is
the evil thereof. Paciencia y barajar is his motto, and he waits
patiently to see what next will turn up after another sunrise and shufile.
His creed and practice are “ Resignation,” the Islam of the Oriental;
for this singular people is scarcely yet European; this Berberia
Gristiana is at least a neutral ground between the hat and the turban,
and many still contend that Africa begins at the Pyrenees.
Be that as it may, Spain, first civilized by the Phcenicians, and long 'A".:<u-I—qr.'a-_g.a~p-q _sq»-t.
possessed by the Moors, has indelibly retained many of the original
impressions. Test her, therefore, and her natives by an Oriental
standard,—decypher her by that key,—how analogous will much
appear, that seems strange and repugnant, when compared with Euro
pean usages! This land and people of routine and habit are potted for
antiquarians, for here Pagan, Roman, and Eastern customs, long obsolete
elsewhere, turn up at every step in church and house, in cabinet and
campaign. In this age of practical investigation, the physical features
of Spain, her mighty mountain ranges and rivers, her wealth above and
below ground, her vegetation and mines, otfer a wide and almost new
field to our naturalists and men of science.
Again, to those of a less utilitarian turn, here are those seas which
reflect the glories of Drake, Blake, and Nelson, and those plains
that are hallowed by the victories of the Black Prince, Stanhope,
and VVellington; and what English pilgrim will fail to visit such
sites, or be dead to the religio loci which they inspire? And where
better than on the sites themselves, can be read the great deeds
of our soldiers and sailors, their gallantry and good conduct, the
genius, mercy, and integrity of their immortal chiefs, which will
be here faithfully yet not boastingly recorded P While every lie
and libel is circulated on each side of the Pyrenees, is, forsooth, the
truth to be altogether withheld in pages destined especially for their
countrymen? Is their history to be treated as an old almanack, in
order in false or cowardlydelicacy, to curry favour with unprincipled
vanity writhing under defeat, or with impotent pride resenting benefits
which imply inferiority P The mirror that shall truly reflect Spain
and her things, her glories and shame, must disclose a chequered picture
8 PREFACE T0 run rnmn Eamon.
in which black spots will contrast with bright lights, and the evil
clash with the good; sad indeed will be many a page; alas! for the
works of ages of piety, science, and fine art, trampled down by the
Vandal heel of destroyers, foreign and domestic, who have left a deep
footprint, and set “ the mark of the beast," which will pain the
scholar, the artist, and the philanthropist. If, however, such crimes
and culprits come like dark shadows (for not one tithe of the full
substance of crime will be set down), it must never be forgotten that
these verdicts of guilty refer to particular individuals and periods, and
not to any nation in general or to all times. And far more pleasant
has been the duty of dwelling on deeds of skill and valour performed
on the peninsular arena by native or foreigner, by friend or foe, and of
pointing out the excellences of this favoured land or SPAIN, and of
enlarging on the generous, manly, independent, and picturesque
PEOPLE, whose best energies in peace and war have been too often
depressed by misgovernment in Church and State.
However it may be the bounden duty of an honest guide to put
English travellers in possession of the truth as regards many things,
facts and persons, and thus to guard them against misrepresentations,
our readers need by no means, on crossing the Channel, blurt out all
they know of these truths, often the worst of libels. These double
edged weapons may be kept undrawn until necessary for self-defence.
Gratuitously to wound a sensitive kindly people, is neither polite or
friendly in the stranger, who is their guest—who will pass more quietly
through the land by making things pleasant to the natives, and if
speech be silver, silence is often gold.
SECTION II.—ANDALUCIA.
Introductory Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
Routes . . . . 0 . . . . . . . - . . . . . 126
SECTION V.—VALENCIA.
General Account of the Country, Natives, and Agriculture . . . 360
Routes¢Ill00OQll|tllll||360
Va1encia..................366
Sncmon VI.-CATALONIA.
Character of the Country and Natives— Commerce—Smugg1ing and
Routes . ' . . . . . . - - - ~ . - . . - . 391
Barcelona and its History . . . . . I . . . . . . . 408
lxm:x................-.-441
B3
10 coxrnnrs.
PART II.
SECTION VII.—ESTREMADURA.
General View of the Province—-its Merinos, Pigs, and Routes . . 461
Badajoz.......--....-.--.466
Sncrlopt VIII.—LEON.
Introductory Remarks on the Province and Natives, and Routes . 504
Salamanca. . . . . ." . .' -’ .' .' -' - - .' . . . 514
ElVierz0 ¢ - » . . . . - . . . . . . . . .539
valladolid 0 0 0 0 0 0 u | - I I n I 0 0 0 0
SECTION 1.
PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
I.—S1>Am mm Smmsnns.
Srscn Spain appears, on the map, to he a square and most compact
kingdom, politicians and geographers have treated it and its inhabitants
as one and the same; practically, however, this is almost a geographical
expression, as the earth, air, and mortals, of the diflerent portions
of this conventional whole, are altogether heterogeneous. Peninsular
man has followed the nature by which he is surrounded; mountains
and rivers have walled, and moated the dislocated land; mists and
gleams have diversified the heaven; and differing like soil and sky,
the people, in each of the once independent provinces now loosely
bound together by one golden hoop, the Crown, has its own par
ticular character. To hate his neighbour is a, second nature to the
Spaniard ; no spick and span constitution, be it printed on parchment or
12 I. sum AND smmsnns. Sect. I.
calico, can at once elface traditions and antipathies of a thousand years ;
the accidents of localities and provincial nationalities, out of which they
have sprung, remain too deeply dyed to be forthwith discharged by
theorists. The climate and productions vary no less than do language,
costume, and manners ; and so division and localism have, from time
irnmemorial, formed a marked national feature. Spaniards may talk
and boast of their country, of their Patria, as is done by the similarly
circumstanced Italians, but like them and the Germans, they have the
fallacy, but no real Fatherland; it is an aggregation rather than an
amalgamatiou,—every single individual in his heart really only loving
his native province, and only considering as his fellow-countryman,
su paisano-—a most binding and endearing word—one born in the same
locality as himself: hence it is not easy to predicate much in regard
to “ the Spains ” and Spaniards in general, which will hold quite good
as to each particular portion ruled by the sovereign of Lac Esparias, the
plural title given to the chief of the federal union of this really little
united kingdom. Espafiolismo may, however, be said to consist in a
love for a common faith and king, and in a coincidence of resistance
to all foreign dictation. The deep sentiments of religion, loyalty, and
independence, noble characteristics indeed, have been sapped in our
times by the influence of t-ranspyrenean revolutions.
In order to assist strangers in understanding the Peninsula and its
people, some preliminary remarks are prefixed to each section or pro
vince, in which the leading characteristics of nature and man are
pointed out. 'l‘\vo general observations maybe premised. First. The
People of Spain, the so-called Lower Orders, are superior to those who
arrogate to themselves the title of being their Betters, and in most
-respects are more interesting. The masses, the least spoilt and the
most national, stand like pillars amid ruins, and on them the edifice of
Spain’s greatness is—if ever-to be reconstructed. This may have
arisen, in this land of anomalies, from the peculiar policy of government
in church and state, where the possessors of religious and civil mono
polies who dreaded knowledge as power, pressed heavily on the noble
and rich, dwarfing down their bodies by intermarriages, and all but
extinguishing their minds by Inquisitions; while the People, over
looked in the obscurity of poverty, were allowed to grow out to their
full growth like wild weeds of a rich soil. They, in fact, have long
enjoyed under despotisrns of church and state, a practical and personal
independence, the good results of which are evident in their stalwart
frames and manly bearing.
Secondly. A distinction must ever be made between the Spaniard
in his individual and in his collective capacity, and still more in
an Qfficial one: taken by himself, he is true and valiant: the nicety
of his Pundonor, or point of personal honour, is proverbial; to him
as an individual, you may safely trust your life, fair fame, and purse.
Yet history, treating of these individuals in the collective, juntados,
presents the foulest examples of misbehaviour in the field, of Punic bad
faith in the cabinet, of bankruptcy and repudiation on the exchange.
This may be also much ascribed to the deteriorating influence of bad
government, by which the individual Spaniard, like the monk in a
convent, becomes fused into the corporate. The atmosphere is too
Spain. 11. mssronrs. ' 13
infectious to avoid some corruption, and while the Spaniard feels that
his character is only in safe keeping when in his own hands, and no man
of any nation knows better then how to uphold it, when linked with
others, his self-pride, impatient of any superior, lends itself readily to
feelings of mistrust, until self-interest and preservation become upper
most. From suspecting that he will be sold and sacrificed by others,
he ends by floating down the turbid stream like the rest : yet even
ofiicial employment does not quite destroy all private good qualities, and
the empleado may be appealed to as an individual.
II.——PASSPORTS.
A Passport—that curse of continental travelling, and still essential
in Spain—may be obtained at the Foreign-ofiice, Downing-street,
for 7s. 6d., by any British subject, backed with the recommendation of
a banker. It had better be viséd by the Spanish Ambassador in Lon
don. As this Rcfremlacion is expressed in the Spanish language, the
import of a foreign passport becomes intelligible in Spain, where, out of
the large towns, few persons understand either English or French. The
essence of a passport is the name and country of the bearer; all the rest
is leather and prunella and red-tapeism.
Travellers who propose taking Portugal in their way to Spain, may
obtain a passport from the Portuguese consul, at No. 5, Jeffreys-square,
St. Mary Axe; the fee is five shillings. It must be viséd at Lisbon by
the English and Spanish Ambassadors previously to entering Spain.
Those who enter Spain from France must have their passports viséd at
Paris by the Spanish Ambassador, and at Bayonne by the Spanish and
English Consuls; the latter demanding a fee, “according to Act of
Parliament.”
At the principal sea-ports of Spain, foreigners are constantly arriving
in the steamers without passports, who, if they wish to travel into the
interior, obtain one from the local authorities, which is never refused
when applied for by the English Consul. This especially holds good
with regard to those who visit the coast in their yachts, or in ships of
war. Those English who go directly to Gibraltar require no passport;
and when starting for Spain they can obtain one either from the English
Governor or from the Spanish Governor of Algeciras: both of these
require to be viséd by the Spanish Consul at Gibraltar, who demands a
trifling fee.
Although in peaceful times, and since the decree on this subject
of February 15, 1854, many rigid rules are relaxed, yet as -they may
be put in force, ultra-prudent travellers who intend travelling with
fire-arms, (which on the whole had better be avoided, a pocket revolver
perhaps excepted,) should have the circumstance mentioned on their
passport by the Spanish ofiicial at starting, when it is first refrendado.
And it is not amiss to have specified the particular objects of travel,
such as botanising, geologizing, sketching, &c. In our and in all
troublesome times a stranger making drawings or writing down notes
in a book, “sacando planes,” “taking plans,” “ma_peand0 el_ pais,”
“ mapping the country,”—for such are the expressions for the simplest
pencil sketch—was liable to become an object of suspicion in out-of-the
way places, and was thought to be an engineer, a spy, and at all events
14 11. 1>Ass1>onrs. Sect. I.
about no good. This Oriental dislike to the impertinente curioso tribe
dates from the French having, previously to Bnonaparte’s invasion,
sent emissaries in the guise of travellers, to obtain such information as
afterwards facilitated their obtaining possession of the citadels, treasures,
and pictures of their deceived ally. Matters are, we are told, much
mended; but let artists remember that Hogarth and Wilkie were arrested
for even sketching Calais, and it is always best to be on the safe side.
All persons, moreover, had better avoid evincing particular curiosity
in regard to military matters, fortresses, arsenals, barracks, &c.; and
should refrain from sketching them, which, in the Draco laws of Spain,
is of itself a serious offence; nor indeed are these objects deserving of
notice, being_mostly hors-de-combat, after the Oriental fashion, and, as
the Duke said, “ wanting in everything, and at the critical moment.”
Our own system, which answered perfectly when Ferdinand VII. was
king, and may again, was, not only to have the object of travelling and
inquiries clearly explained on our passport, but on arrival at any town,
to communicate intention of drawing, or anything else, to the proper
authority, and obtain his sanction. We always travelled with a captain
general’s passport, a most desirable document, as it is expressed in the
Spanish language, which everybody understands, and which rouses no
suspicions like one couched in a foreign tongue; it is the military
document of the great military oflicer, under whose especial protection
all foreigners are placed. Again, it is a sort of letter of recommenda
tion to all other officers in command on the line of route, on whom the
bearer should call the first thing, as when once a Spaniard’s suspicions
are disarmed, no person can be more courteous or attentive.
In whatever language his passport be couched, let every Englishman,
like good old George III., glory everywhere in his British birthright,
and proclaim it loudly and with thanks to God : Senor, gracias 6 Dias,
soy Caballero Ingles. Again, as the thing cannot be avoided, the
traveller should early form the habit, the very first thing on arrival, to
ask the innkeeper what steps are necessary about passports and police
which now in some sort represent the Inquisition—and forthwith see that
he is quite en regle. The habit once established of complying with
these forms practically gives little trouble, and will obviate a world of
vexation, inconvenience, and loss of time. The necessary formalities
are soon done; and usually great civility is shown by the authorities to
those travellers who will wait upon them in person, which is not always
required, and who do take of their hats-—-that outward visible sign of
good breeding and good intentions on the continent, which is so fre
uently disregarded by our cool, curt, and catch-cold countrymen, to
t eir infinite cost. The Spaniards, who are not to be driven with a rod
of iron, may be led by a straw, and in no country is more to be obtained
by the cheap outlay of courtesy in manner and speech; “cortesia de
boca, mucho vale y poco cuesta.” As a general rule, the utmost care
should be taken of this odious passport, since the loss of it naturally
subjects the stranger to every sort of suspicion. It should be carried
about the person when travelling, as it is liable constantly to be called
for : to prevent it from being worn out, it is advisable to have it laid down
by Mr. Lee, 440, West Strand, on fine linen, bound into a small pocket
book, with blank leaves attached, on which signatures may be written.
Spain. 111. CUSTOM-HOUSES.-—XV. smmsn MONEY. ' 15
III.-Cusrosr-Hoosr:s.
Akin to the nuisance of passports is that of the Aduaneros, the
custom-house officers, and of the receivers of the dereckos de puerta, or
dues levied at city-gates on comestibles de boca--articles of eating and
drinking. From the number of the employed it would seem that every
province and town in Spain was at war with or foreign to its neighbour.
N0 prudent traveller will ever risk his ease and security by carrying
any prohibited goods with him. The objects most searched for, are
sealed letters and tobacco: if the lover of cigars has a considerable
stock with him (a pound or so may pass), he is advised to declare it
at once, pay the duty, and obtain a gmla, or permit, which exempts him
from further molestation. English fire-arms and gunpowder are
altogether prohibited. Sportsmen, however, who enter Spain from
Gibraltar, may manage to introduce their own guns and ammunition.
As the Resguardos,—-the custom-house officers and preventive service
-—have a right to examine baggage, it is of no use either to resist
or lose thus time and temper; much more may be done by good
humour, patience, civility, and a cigar: raise therefore no dilficulties,
but offer your keys, and profess the greatest readiness to have every
thing examined. Recent travellers report that bribing is now out of
fashion in Spain, and that no money should be offered, as is enjoined
but not practised on our railways. But in our time the grandest
panacea was cash, the oriental Backshish, and those who preferred peace
to pesetas, paid with both hands. The oflicial ophthalmia created by
an apposite sprinkle of gold~dust was marvellous in its rapidity and
completeness, and the examination ended in being a mere farce. The
empleados, used to be defined as gentlemen, who, under the pretence
of searching portmanteaus, took money on the highway without incur¢
,ring the disgrace of begging, or the danger of robbing. The bribe, if
given, must be administered with some tact, as a “propt"n,a para echar
an traguito,” a something to drink your health with, &c. However,
there is no great difficulty in the matter, for where there is a will on
one side to give, there is a. reciprocal desire on the other to receive,
and the itching palm expands and contracts by instinct to the soothing
and sovereign ointment. These things may be changed, but the tra
veller will soon see how the wind lies, and judge whether he should
bribe or not.
IV.—Sm1v1sn Monnv.
Our advice coincides with that of the roguish Ventero to Don Quixote
and of honest Iago in Othello—“ put money in thy purse,” as it is the
primum mobile in all cosas de Espafia. “ The first thing they (the
Spaniards) invariably want,” as the Duke said, “is money :” their para
mount worship of the Virgin is secondary to the adoration of Mammon.
With few exceptions, the currency consists of specie—copper, silver,
and gold. Accounts are usually kept in reals, reales dc vellon.
Copper Momeys—“ Manedas dc C'obre.”—The lowest in denomination
is the ancient maravedi, now an imaginary coin, on whose former value
treatises have been written by Saez and others, and which still forms a
nnmismatic bone of contention. At present 34 make a Spanish real.
16 1v. sramsn MONEY. Sect. I.
The current copper coins are
Ochava = 2 maravedis.
Cuarto = 4 _ ,,
Dos cuartos = 8 ,,
For a general rule, the traveller may consider the “ cuarto” as equi
valent to a French sou, something less than our English halfpenny,
and as the smallest coin likely to come much under his observation.
Those below it, fractions of farthings, have hardly any defined form ;
indeed, among the lower classes every bit of copper in the shape of a
coin passes for money.
Silver Coins-—“ Monedas de Plata ”—are
The Real 1 2 4 10 20
Dos reales 1 2 5 10
Peseta l 2} 5
Media Duro I 2
Duro I
The real is worth somewhat more than 2}d.; the dos reales, or 2
reals, somewhat less than 5d., and may be considered as equivalent to
the half-franc, and representing in Spain the sixpence in England.
The peseta comes very nearly to the French franc. Of these and the
“ dos reales ” the traveller should always take a good supply, for, as
the Scotchman said of sixpences, “ they are canny little dogs, and
often do the work of shillings.” The half-dollar varies, according to
the exchange, between two shillings and half a crown.
The dollar of Spain, so well known all over the world, is the Italian
“ colonato,” so called because the arms of Spain are supported between
the two pillars of Hercules. The ordinary Spanish name is “duro.”
They are often, however, termed in banking and mercantile transactions
“ pesos fuertes,” to distinguish them from the imaginary “peso” or
smaller dollar of 15 reals only, of which the peseta is the diminutive.
The “ duro ” in the last century was coined into half-dollars, quarter
dollars, and half-quarter dollars. The two latter do not often occur;
they may be distinguished from the “peseta” and “dos reales” by
having the arms of Spain stamped between the two pillars, which have
been omitted in recent coinages ; their fractional value renders them in
convenient to the traveller until perfectly familiar with Spanish money.
The quarter-dollar is worth 5 reals, while the peseta is only worth 4 ;
the half-quarter dollar is worth 2.} reals, while the dos reales is only
worth 2. The duro in accounts is generally marked thus $. This
coin is now getting scarce, having been much melted down abroad, and
is nearly superseded in Spain by the French pieces de cing francs,
here called Napoleones, and these are the best coins a traveller can take,
as each is current everywhere for 19 reals.
The Gold Ooinage consists of the
Duro 1 2 4 8 16
Dos duros 1 2 4 8
Doblon 1 2, 4
Media-mrza 1 2
Onza . . 1
The new coin, the Isabelino, the Spanish sovereign, is worth 5 duros,
or 100 reals. The ounce, when of full weight, is worth sixteen
Spain. - 1v. smmsn uoxsv. 17
dollars ; the exact value, however, is uncertain, since these large
coins, are much worn by time, and the sweating by the fraudulent,
and seldom have preserved their legal weight and value. Those thus
deficient ought to be accompanied with a certificate, wherein is stated
their exact diminished weight and value. This certificate may be
obtained in the principal towns from the “c0m“raste,” or “ fiel
medirlor,” the person who is legally authorized to weigh gold coins
supposed to be light, and his place of abode is well known. All
this, however, leads to constant disputes and delays, and the
stranger must take care when he receives onzas, except from first-rate
Spanish bankers or merchants, to see that these great coins are of cor
rect Weight: two grains are generally allowed for wear. It is better,
except when residing in large towns, only to take the smaller gold
coins, to which objections are seldom raised. The traveller who is
about to leave the high road and visit the more rarely frequented dis
tricts and towns, should have nothing to do with any onzas whatever;
for, when these broad pieces are offered for payment in a small village,
they are apt to be viewed with distrust, and are difficult to be changed,
while with the smaller ones nothing of the kind occurs.
Some gold coins have a narrow thread or cord stamped round them,
and are then termed “ ale pemio.” They have a small additional value
—the gold duro, for instance, circulating for 21 reales 2 cu/a'ri0s—but
they should be avoided by the traveller, as he will seldom be reminded
when paying them away, that he is giving more than he ought. These
coins, in common with all which are not the simplest and best known,
only entail on him probable loss and certain trouble in adding up
accounts and making payments.
There are two imaginary coins with which old-fashioned Spaniards
perplex strangers when naming prices or talking of values, just as is
done with our obsolete guinea: one is the “ ducado,” worth 11 reals,
or about half our crown; the other is the “ peso,” the piastre, worth
15 reals, and by which, although imaginary, thevexchange on England
is still regulated: thus so many pence, more or less, as the rate may
be high or low, are reckonedas equivalent to this “ peso :” the exchange
on the principal cities of Europe is generally published in all Spanish
newspapers. 36 pence is considered to be par, or 48 for the dollar, or
“ peso fuerte,” as it is called, to distinguish the whole piece from the
smaller one. The traveller may calculate ‘by this simple rule how
much he ought to get for his pound sterling. ' If 36 pence will produce
15 reals, how many reals will 240 pence give ?—the answer is 100.
This being a round number, will form a suflicient basis for one newly
arrived in Spain to regulate his financial computation : he may take a
hundred reals as equivalent to a pound sterling, although he will be
most fortunate if ever he gets it--or even 95, the practical par—after
all the etceteras of exchange, commission, and money-scrivening, are
deducted. The usual mode of drawing on England is by bills at 90
days after sight, at a usance and half, 60 days being the usance. The
traveller who draws at sight, “ corto,” or at shorter dates, or “ a treinta
dias,” at 30 days, ought in consequence to obtain a more favourable
rate of exchange. _ _
In the passive commerce of Spain the infant trade of banking IS
18 v. srmm COMMUNICATIONS. - Sect. I.
seldom separated from the general business of a merchant, except in
the chief towns ; among these the circular notes of Messrs, Harries and
Farquhar, and others, are tolerably negociable.
The traveller, on arriving at the first principal city on his projected
line of tour, if it be one at all out of the beaten line, should draw a sum
suificient to carry him to the next point, where he can obtain a fresh
supply: and, in order to prevent accidents on the road, the first banker
or merchant should be desired to furnish smaller letters of credit on
the intermediate towns. Those acquainted with the mysteries of bills
and exchanges in London may frequently obtain paper on Spain here,
by which a considerable turn of the market may be made. Of foreign
coins, the English sovereign is worth 95 reals, the French napoleon 75.
It is needless to trouble the traveller with the infinite local coins
which circulate in the diflerent provinces, remnants of their former
independence, and the moreas a scheme is in contemplation of reducing
the varied monies of Spain to the decimal system of France—from cen
tigranos copper, to Isabelinos in gold, to be worth 100 reals.
V.—-STEAM COMMUNICATIONS.
The whole line of coast, an extent of nearly 600 leagues, is provided
with steamers. The Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Com
pany, which takes her Majesty’s mails on to Malta and Alexandria,
offers a regular conve ance from London to Gibraltar. To secure pas
sages and to obtain information of every kind, applications may be
made at the Company’s ofiice, No. 122, Leadenhall Street, or at
Oriental Place, Southampton. The Company publishes a little Hand
book, which contains everything necessary to be known, as to days of
departure, fares, &c. As these are liable to annual changes, travellers
should apply personally or by letter to the secretary, Mr. Howell, and
may be assured that they will meet with great civility and attention.
The Company has agents in the principal seaports abroad, of whom all
necessary information can be obtained on the spot.
The average fares may be thus stated :
First Class. Second Class.
£. s. d. £. s d.
To Vigo . . . 8 0 0 -- 5 0 0
Oporto . . 9 0 0 - ~ 7 0 O
Lisbon 1 . 10. 0 0 I e 7 10 O
Cadiz - . . 12 10 0 v s 9 O O
Gibraltar. . 13 0 0 H 9 10 0
Children under 10 years of age, if with the parent, are charged half the
above rates; under 3 years of age, free.' The fares include a liberal
table, and wines, for first-cabin passengers; and for second-cabin pas
séngers, provisions without wines.
Bagga,ge.—First-class passengers are allowed each 2 cwt. of personal
baggage ; all above that quantity will be charged at the rate of ls. per
cubic foot. Each vessel carries a medical officer approved of by govern
ment. Experienoed and respectable female attendants for the ladies’
cabin. Private family cabins for passengers, if required. The average
passages may be taken as follows :
Spain. , VI. TRAVELLING BY LAND. - 19
Is Soinnm. In Wmrx-:3.
Hours. Hours.
Southampton to Vigo - . - 96 to 105 -- 112
Vigo to Oporto - - . . 8 to 9 ~ - ll
Qporto to Lisbon . . . . 18 to 19 » - 22
Lisbon to Cadiz . . . - 27 to 31 - - 34
Cadiz to Gibraltar . . . 0 7 to I0 - - ll
The vessels generally remain about 3 hours at Vigo, 1-} off Oporto,
12 at Lisbon, and 3 at Cadiz ,- Gibraltar is usually reached the 8th
day. The direct passage is accomplished in 51} days. A new Screw
Steam Shipping Company was contemplated in 1854, to run
weekly between London and the South of Spain. Fares, to Cadiz
or Gibraltar, chief cabin, 10l. 10s.; 2nd cabin, 6l. 10s. The steamers
on their arrival atSpanish ports are soon surrounded with boats to convey
passengers on shore, the demands of the unconscionable crews rising
with the winds and waves. The proper charges per tarif are a peseta
per person, two reals per portmanteau, and one for each smaller package;
a passenger without luggage has to pay two reals for being landed, or
- put on board. The word “ tarifa ” itself generally settles disputes.
The foreign steamers are neither such good sea boats, nor so regular
or well manned as their English competitors. From La Taste, near
Bordeaux, one runs to San Sebastian and Oorunna ,' another touches
at the ports between San Sebastian and Malaya. There is regular
communication between Cadiz and Marseilles. The steamers usually
remain about half a day at Algeciras, a whole one at Malaya, a few
hours at Almeria, half a day each at Gartagena and Alicante ; a whole
one at Valencia, a few hours occasionally at Tarragona, two days at
Barcelona, and half a one at Port Vendres. The exact particulars,
times of sailing, fares, &c. are to be seen in every inn on the coast, or
may be ascertained from the local agents. Remember, if you wish to
carefully baggage
forward directed or
to packages
the person
bytothese
whom they aretoconsigned,
steamers, have themand to i
very
take a receipt for them and forward it per post to your correspondent,
desiring him to send for the articles the moment the steamer arrives,
or they will either be left on board, or lost, after the usual fashion of
the unbusinesslike, pococurante Mediterraneans.
VI.—TRAVELLING BY LAND—ROADS—POSTING—POST-OFFICE—MAIL
Coacnns —- DILIGENCES — (Joonrcs nn COLLERAS —MULETEEBS -
Rrnmc Towns.
The railroad is in its infancy. Spain, a jumble of mountains, with
few large cities, and those far between, with an unvisited, unvisiting
population, and a petty passive commerce, is admirably suited for the
time-honoured national locomotive, the ass and mule. There has, how
ever, been much talk of the Ferro Oarril system, which is to cover the
Peninsula with an iron net-work of communications, level the sierras,
and pay 20 per cent., &c. This is proposed to be done chiefly by
English gold and Navvies. A comedy or tragedy might be written on
the plausible schemes by which the gullability of John Bull has been
tickled and his pockets lightened. Hitherto the “ Powers that be ” in
Spain have scarcely settled the sine qua non preliminary step, i. e. the
20 VI. rmvnnuso BY LAND-—POSTIXG. Sect. I.
division among each other of the plunder in granting “concessions,”
&c. Permissions, forsooth, for silly foreigners to be allowed as a
favour to do the work—1.hrow away time and cash, in order to be
laughed at, insulted, and ultimately cheated for their pains.
Meantime there are eight royal roads, caminos reale9—carrete'ras
generales, which branch forth from the capital like spokes of a wheel,
and run to Iran, to Barcelona by Valencia, to Cadiz by Seville, to
Granada, to La Junquera by Zaragoza, to Corunna, Oviedo, and to
Portugal by Badajoz. These first-class roads are also called Arreeifes,
from the Arabic word for chaussées, causeways: they are made on the
Macadam system, admirably engineered, and kept in infamous neglect.
The wear and tear of traflic and weather has destroyed the surface
material, forming holes, and malos pasos, by which coach-springs are
cracked and travellers’ bones dislocated : nevertheless, heavy turnpike
and ferry tolls are raised at the portazgos y barcas ; recently some stir of
improvement is visible both in the repair of the older roads, and in the
construction of new ones; ordinary but carriageable roads are called
caminos carreteros, caminos de carruage, de carretera, and are just prac
ticable: bridle-roads are called caminos de herradura. Bye-ways and
short cuts are termed trochas, travesias and caminos de atajo, and
familiarly and justly called caminos de perdices, roads for partridges;
nor should any man in his senses or in a wheel-carriage forget the pro
verb no hay atajo, sin trabajo—there is no short cut without hard work.
A rambZa—Ar-abice rarnl—sand, serves the double purpose of a road in
summer for men and beasts, and a river bed in winter for fish, fools,
and wild fowl. This term and thing is pretty general in Valencia and
commercial! Catalonia.
Internal locomotion has been lately facilitated throughout the Penin
sula as regards public conveyances, but the progress is slow; travelling
in your own carriage with post horses, changing at each relay, is only
practicable on the high road from Irun to Madrid, and even then is cer
tainly not to be recommended: nor is it usually done except by Cabinet
couriers or very great personages. However, by making an arrange
ment with the persons who horse the diligences, journeys have been
performed on the leading roads by persons in their own carriages. The
‘ Guia General de Correos,’ by Francisco Xavier de Cabanes, 4to., Mad.,
1830, is useful, since posting, being a royal monopoly, is fettered with
the usual continental checks and bureaucratic bothers.
The distances are regulated and paid for—not by posts, but by
leagues, leguas, of 20,000 feet, or 20 to a degree of the meridian, and
somewhat less than three miles and a half English, being the nautical
league of three geographical miles. The country leagues, especially
in the wilder and mountainous districts, are calculated more by guess
work than measurement. Generally you may reckon by time rather
than distance, the sure test of slow coaching, and consider the league
a sort of German stunde, an hour's work. The term “ legua” is modified
by an explanatory epithet. “ Larga,” or long, varies from four to five
miles. “Regular,” a very Spanish word, is used to express a league,
or anything else that is neither one thing nor another, something about
the regular post league. “ Oorta,” as it implies, is a short league,
three miles. These leagues, like everything in Spain, vary in the
Spain, v1. POST-OFFICE AND LETTERS. , 21
different provinces, and it is contemplated, in imitation of the French,
to introduce one standard; when Iberian ears will be astounded with
myriometros y kilometres-—but this scheme is easier talked about than
done. Post-horses and mules are paid at the rate of six reals each
for each post league, and five only when the traveller is on the royal
service. The number of animals to be paid for is regulated by the
number of travellers; more than six, however, are never put on; if
the passengers exceed six in number, six reals more are charged, over
and above the price of the six horses put to, for each traveller exceeding
the number ; a child under seven years of age is not reckoned as a pas
senger; two children under that age are to be paid for as one grown
up person. If the postmaster puts on for his own convenience either
more or less horses than the tarifl' expresses, the traveller is only bound
to pay for the number therein regulated. The postilions are obliged
to travel two leagues in an hour, but they, if well paid, drive at a
tremendous pace. They may not change horses with another carriage
on the road, except with the consent of the traveller. Their strict
pay is three reals a league; but the custom is usually -to give seven,
and even eight, if they have behaved well: by law the post-boy can
insist on driving from the coach-box, “ el pescomte,” and as nothing of
that kind is attached to some britchkas and English carriages, an
additional real is the surest mode of obviating these discussions and
mounting him on his horse. The postilions, if they infringe any of
the rules, are liable to lose their “ agujetas ”—their “ propina ” (amo
1rwrw—something to drink-—pour boire—trink-gelt). The postmaster
of the next relay is bound to adjudicate on the complaint of the tra
veller, and he himself is amenable, if the traveller be dissatisfied with
his decision, to the director of the superior administration at the next
town, and he again to the “ superintendencia general,” the chief
authority at Madrid.
As regards post-ofiices and letters, the general correspondence of
Spain is tolerably well regulated; a single letter, una. carta sencilla,
must not exceed six adarmes, or half an ounce; the charge for postage
increases with the weight. The English system has been recently
introduced; a uniform charge for postage—by weight—now prevails
over Spain, irrespective of distance. The stamps are called sellos.
English newspapers, when not prohibited, are free to Spain ; pamphlets
and papers fastened like ours, with an open band orfaja for directing,
are charged at the rate of four reals the pound. As private letters are
opened with very little scruple in Spain, correspondents should be
cautious, especially on political subjects. Letters from England must
be prepaid. A traveller may have his addressed to him at the
post-oflice, but it is better to have them directed to some friend or
banker, to whom subsequent instructions may be given how and where
to forward them. In the large towns the names of all persons for whom
any letters may have arrived which are not specially directed to a par
ticular address, are copied and exposed on boards called Zas tablas at
the post-offices, in lists arranged alphabetically. The inquirer is thus
enabled to see at once if there be any one for him by referring to the
list containing the first letter of his name, and then asking for the letter
by its number, for one is attached to each according to the order it
22 v1. TRAVELLING ar LAND—DILIGENCF8. Sect. I.
stands in the list. He should also look back into the old lists, for after
a certain time names are taken from the more recent arrivals and
placed among those which have remained some weeks on the unclaimed
board. He should look over the alphabetical classifications of both his
Christian and surname, as ludicrous mistakes occur from the difficulty
Spaniards have in reading English handwriting and English names.
Their post-master-s—no decypherers of hieroglyphics—are sorely per
plexed by our truly Britannic terminal title Esq.: and many a traveller
gets scheduled away under the letter E. Prudent tourists should urge
home correspondents, especially their fair ones, to direct simply, and to
write the surname in large and legible characters. The best mode,
while travelling in Spain, is to beg them to adopt the Spanish form—
“ Sefior Don Plantagenet Smytheville, Caballero Ingles.” This “ tablas”
system occasions loss of time, temper, and letters, for any one may ask
for those of any other person and get it, so few precautions are taken.
As a rule, Plantagenet Smytheville, Esq., should look if there be a
letter for him under P. for Plantagenet, and under S. for Smytheville,
and under E. for Esquire. It is always best to go to the post-ofiice
and make these inquiries in person, and, when applying for letters, to
write the name down legibly, and give it to the empleado, rather than
ask for it vivé voce. The traveller should always put his own letters
into the post-ofiice himself, especially those which require prepayment,
“ que deben franquearse.” Foreign servants, and still less those hired
during a few days’ stay in a place, do not always resist the temptation
of first destroying letters, and then charging the postage as paid, and
pocketing the amount. Travellers, when settled in a town, may, by
paying a small fixed sum to the post-oflice clerks, have a separate
division, “ el apartado,” and an earlier-delivery of their letters.
Letters are generally sent for; if, however, they be specially directed,
they are left by a postman, “ el cartero.”
Riding post is called, from its expeditious nature, 'viajar 6 la Zigera ;
the traveller pays six reals a league for his own, and as much for the
horse or mule of the postilion who accompanies him; one real less is
charged if he be on the royal service. Cabinet couriers, “ correos de
gabinete,” have the preference of horses at every relay. The particular
distances they have to perform are all timed, and so many leagues are
required to be done in a fixed time; and, in order to encourage des
patch, for every hour gained on the allowed time, an additional sum
was paid to them: hence the common expression, “gammdo horas,”
gaining hours. These methods are getting obsolete.
Letters are conveyed on the chief roads in mails, Sillas correo, Sillas
do pasta; the carriages take two or three passengers on the road from
Madrid to Irun. The rate of travelling averages six miles an hour,
and, as scarcely any stoppages are allowed, a prudent traveller will
attend to some sort of “ proband,” although the less eaten and drank
on such feverish jaunts the better; the fares will be learnt at the post
ofiices; they average about 3d. a mile English. Very little luggage is
allowed, and extra weight is paid at three reals the pound. No time
should be lost in securing your place, as these mails are liable to be
full, especially in the summer time.
The public coaches or diligencias are based, in form and system, on
Spain. VI. TRAVELLING BY LAND-—-DILIGENCES. 23
the French diligence, from whence the name is taken ; these copies are
preferable to their originals, inasmuch as the company who travel by
them, from the difficulties of travelling with post-horses, is of a superior
order to those who go by the dilly in France, and the Spaniard is
essentially much higher bred than his neighbour, and especially as
regards the fair sex. The Spanish diligences go pretty fast, but the
stoppages, .delays, and “ behind time ” are terrible.
- Travelling in the diligencia, odious in itself, is subject to the usual
continental drags, billetes, and etceteras previously to starting; the
prices are moderate, and vary according to the places, the rotonda, the
interior, the berlina, and the coupe’ ,' very little luggage is allowed, and
a heavy charge made for all extra. Be very careful as to directions on
your luggage, avoiding the “ Esq,” and have it all registered; and take
your place in time too, as the diligencias fill very much, especially during
summer; the passengers are under the charge of a conductor, the
mayoral ; meals are provided at the coaches’ own baiting inns or para
dores, which are suflicient in quantity, endurable in cookery, and rea
sonable in charges.
On those roads where there are no diligences, recourse must be had
to the original and national modes of travelling. You can hire a cache
de colleras, a huge sort of lord mayor’s coach, which is drawn by half
a-dozen or more mules, and which performs journeys from thirty to
thirty-five miles a-day, like an Italian vetturino; this is at once a slow
and expensive mode of travel, but not unamusing, from the peculiar
manner in which cattle and carriage are driven. This picturesque turn
out, like our “coach-and-six” in Pope’s time, is fast disappearing.
Those natives who cannot afford this luxury resort to the galem, a sort
of covered Waggon without springs, which. being of most classical dis
comfort, is to be sedulously avoided, que diable allait il fairs dans cette
galére. Smaller vehicles, such as calesas and tartanas, are also to be
occasionally hired for smaller distances. So much for wheels.
A considerable portion of the Peninsula, and many of the most
interesting, untrodden, unhacknied localities, can only be visited on the
back of animals or on one’s own feet. As a pedestrian tour for pleasure
is a thing utterly unknown in Spain, it is not to be thought of for a
moment, while excursions on horseback are truly national, and bring
the stranger in close contact with Spanish man and nature. He may
hire horses and mules at most large cities, or join the caravans of the
regular muleteers and carriers who ply from fixed places to others.
These arrieros (arre'—arabice “gee up”), cosarios y ordinarios, have
their well-known inns or houses of call and stated days of arrival and
departure: moderate in their charges, they are seldom molested by rob
bers on the road. Those who can only ride on an English saddle should
procure one before starting, and every man will do well to bring out a
good pair of English spurs, with some spare sets of rowels, and attend
to their efiicient sharpness, for the hide of a Spanish beast is hard and
unimpressionable. Heavy luggage may always be sent from town to
town by the arrieros, whose recuas de acemilas, or droves of baggage
mules, do the ofiice of our goods-train.-N.B. Remember to be careful
in the directions, to take a receipt and forward it per post to the person
to whom your articles are addressed, desiring him to call for them.
The muleteers cf Spain form a class of themselves, and are honest,
24 vn. smmsn mas. Sect. I.
trustworthy, and hard-working; full of songs, yarns, lies, and incorrect
local information.
It cannot be said that their animals are pleasant to ride, nor indeed
are the hacks, hacas, and cattle usually let for hire much better; to
those, therefore, who propose making an extensive riding tour, especially
in the W. provinces, the better plan is to perform it on their own
animals, the masters on horses, the attendants on mules. The chief
points in such journeys are to take as few traps as possible, trunks
the impedimenta of travellers—are thorns in his path, who passes more
lightly and pleasantly by sending the heavier luggage on from town to
town; “ attend also to the provend,” as the commissariat has ever been
the ditficulty in hungry and thirsty Spain. Each master should have
his o\vn Alforjas or saddle-bags, in which he will stow away whatever
is absolutely necessary to his own immediate wants and comforts, strap
ping his cloak or manta over it. The servant should be mounted on a
stout mule, and provided with strong and capacious capachos de esparto,
or peculiar baskets made of the Spanish rush ; one side may be dedicated
to the wardrobe, the other to the larder; and let neither master nor man
omit to take a bota or leather wine-bottle or forget to keep it full ; spare
sets of shoes with nails and hammer are also essential. But when
once off the beaten tracks, those travellers who make up their minds
to find nothing on the road but discomfort will be the least likely
to be disappointed, while by being prepared and forearmed they will
overcome every difiiculty — hombre prevenido, mmca fu vencido, a
little foresight and provision gives small trouble and ensures great
comfort. The sooner all who start on riding tours can speak Spanish
themselves the better, as polyglott travelling servants are apt to be
rogues; a retired cavalry soldier is a good man to take, as he under
stands horses, and knows how to forage in districts where rations are
rare. Few soldiers are more sober, patient, and enduring of fatigue
than the Spanish ; six reals a day, food, lodging, and some dress, with
a tip at the end, will be ample pay. He must be treated with civility,
and abusive speech avoided.
VII.—Sr.».r~11sn Inns.
The increase and improvement of public conveyances, by leading to
increased travel and traflic, has caused some corresponding change for the
better in the quantity and quality of the houses destined to the accommo
dation of Wayfaring men and beasts. As they are constantly changing,
it is not easy to give their names in every place. These conveniences‘
are of varied denominations, degrees, and goodness, or they may be
divided into the bad, the worse, and the worst—and bad is the best : first
is the Fonda (the oriental Fundack), which is the assumed equivalent to
our hotel, as in it lodging and board are furnished ; second is the Posada,
in which, strictly speaking, only the former is provided; thirdly comes
the Venta, which is a sort of inferior posada of the country, as distin
guished from the to\vn ; at both Posada and Venta the traveller finds
the means of cooking whatever provisions he has brought with him, or
can forage on the spot, and he is charged in the morning a moderate
sum for the ruido do casa, the noise or row which he is supposed to
have kicked up in the peaceful dwelling. These khans are generally
larderless, although the ventero, as in Don Quixote’s time, will answer,
Spain. VIII. SPANISH nossnns. 25
when asked what he has got, Hay de todo, there is everything; but
de lo que V. traie, “ of what you bring with you,” must be understood.
The traveller, when he arrives at one of these Posadas, especially in
rarely visited places, should be courteous and liberal in using little
conventional terms of civility, and not begin by ordering and hurrying
people about ; he will thus be met more than half way, and obtain the
best quarters and accommodation that are to be had. Spaniards, who
are not to be driven by a rod of iron, may be tickled and led by a
straw. Treat them as caballeros, and they are of a high caste, and
they generally behave themselves as such. No man who values a
night’s rest will omit on arrival to look at once after his bed : a cigar for
the mozo, a compliment to the muchaclza, and a tip, ima gratificacioncita,
seldom fail to conciliate, and secure comfort.
The “ ventorillo ” is a minor class of venta, and often nothing more
than a mere hut, run up with reeds or branches of trees by the road
side, at which water, bad wine, and worse brandy, aguardiente, true
aqua ardens, disflavoured with aniseed, are to be sold. In out-of-the
way districts the traveller, in the matter of inns, will seldom be per
plexed with any difiiculty of selection as to the relative goodness; the
golden rule will be to go to the one where the diligence puts up—El
Parador de las Diligencias. The simple direction, “ vamos a La Po
sada,” let us go to THE inn, will be enough in smaller towns ; for the
question is rather, Hay posada, y doncle esta? Is there an inn, and
where is it P than Which is the best inn P
N.B. All who travel with ladies are advised to write beforehand to
their banker or friends to secure quarters in some hotel, especially when
going to Madrid and the larger cities.
The charges of the native inns‘ are not exorbitant; generally by a
dollar to two dollars a-day, bed and board are paid for; where, however,
establishments are set up on what is called the English or French system,
foreign prices are demanded, and very considerable ones, considering
the poor and copied accommodation. 'l‘hose who propose remaining any
time in a large to\vn may make their own bargain with the lI1Dk€G]"Bl‘,
or can go into a boarding-house, “ casa de pupilos,” or “ de huespedes,”
where they will have the best opportunity of learning the Spanish lan
guage, and obtaining an idea of the national manners and habits. These
establishments are constantly advertised in the local newspapers, and
the houses may be known externally by a white paper ticket attached
to the extremity of one of the window balconies; for if the aper be
placed in the middle, it only means “lodgings to let here.” ‘he tra
veller will always be able to learn from his banker, or from any respect
able inhabitant, which of these boarding-houses enjoys the best reputa
tion, or he may himself advertise in the papers for exactly the sort of
thing he wants.
V1II.—SPANISH Ronnsns.
Banditti have long been the bugbear of Spain, for a bad name once
gotten is not easily removed, and still less when the conventional idea
is kept up by sundry writersin England who instruct the public on the
things of Spain, where they have never been, and feed foregone,conclu
SP.~.rs.—I. °
,1
26 VIII. SPANISH ROBBERS. Sect. I.
sions. Undoubtedly on the long highways of a thinly-peopled land
accidents may occur, as Spanish gentlemen who have met with mis
fortunes in troubled times \vilI_ take to the road. But robbery is the
exception, rather than the rule, in Spain; and latterly precautions have
been so increased that some ingenuity must be displayed in managing
to get waylaid and pillaged—not that to the very ambitious for such
events], or tiihthc imprudent anltll incautious, the thing is altogether im
possib e. e experiment mi" t be tried with prospect of success in
Andalucia, taking Ronda as tfie centre of a robbing radius.
Referring to the ‘ Gatherings,’ ch. 16, for other details, sufiice it here
to say that the best plan is for the traveller never to trouble his head
about the matter, nor to frighten himself WllZl1‘Slla(lOWS of his own
{fi‘lSllitg letf himteturn a ldeadf elsgltfi the yarns oihmluletelers the ]l>ps_i
i 'e ac 0 wai rs 8.!1( r1 e y on - never e ess e wi o we in
suspicious places to, abjure foolish chattering about his plans, lines of
route, hours of starting, and so forth, and still more to avoid any exhi
bitgon off (ash :}n_dhattfi;active itenzstrif propterty, silver dretrgsing-msfisé
an so or fol his
of robbery \v iieparticular
o en beiiefit,
snvees for einbSpainias
we inv upelsewhere,
an ex mpore
Ia ocasion1
against the cold winds which sweep across the central region. The
descent from the table elevations into these maritime strips is striking;
the face of nature is quickly and completely changed, and the traveller
passes from the climate and vegetation of Europe into that of Africa.
This region is characterised by a dry burning atmosphere during a part of
the year. The winters are short and temperate, the springs and autumns
quite delightful. Much of the cultivation depends on artificial
irrigation, which was carried by the Moors to the highest perfection;
indeed water, under this forcing, vivifying sun, is synonymous with
fertility; the productions are tropical; sugar, cotton, rice; the orange,
lemon, and date. The aIgaroba—ceratonia siliqnastrum—-and the
adelfu, the oleander, form the boundary marks between this, the tierra.
caliente, and the colder regions by which it is encompassed. Such are
the geographical divisions of nature with which the vegetable and animal
productions are closely connected. The Bmtican zone, Andalucia,
contains in itself many of the most interesting cities, sites, and natural
beauties of the Peninsula. Cadiz, Gibraltar, Ronda, Malaga, the Alpu
jarras, Granada, Cordova, Seville, Xerez, are easy of access, and maybe
visited almost at every portion of the year. The winters may be spent
at Cadiz, Seville, or Malaga, the summers in the cool mountains of
Ronda, Aracena, or Granada. April, May, and June, or September,
October, and November, will, however, be the most preferable. Those
who go in the spring should reserve June for the mountains; those who
go in the autumn should reverse the plan, and commence with Ronda
and Granada, ending with Malaga, Seville, and Cadiz ; and this region
will be found by the invalid infinitely superior as a winter residence
than any portions of the South of France or Italy.
The internal communication of the Peninsula, thus divided by the
mountain-walls of Oordilleras, is effected by high roads, carried over the
most convenient points, where the natural dips are the lowest, and the
ascents and descents the most practicable. As a general rule, the
traveller should always cross the mountains by one of these. The
goat-paths and smuggler-passes over other portions of the chain are
difiicult and dangerous, and seldom provided with villages or ventas :
the farthest but fairest way about, will generally be found the best and
shortest road. These passes are called Puertos—portte—mountain
gates: the precise ghaut of the Hindoos.
The term Sierra, which is commonly applied to these serrated ranges,
has been derived from the Spanish sierra, a saw; while others refer it
to the Arabic Sehrah, an uncultivated tract. Montafia means a moun
tain; Cerro a hog-backed hill; pico, picacho, a pointed height. Una
cuesta, a much-used expression, means both an ascent and descent.
Ouesta arriba, cuesta abajo, up hill, down hill. There are few of the
singular-shaped hills which have not some local name, such as Oabeza
del Moro, the Mcor’s head; or something connected with religion, such
as San Christobal, El Fraile, &c.
There are 6 great rivers in Spain—the arteries which run between
the 7 mountain-chains, the vertebrae of the geological skeleton. These
6 water-sheds are each intersected in their extent by others on a minor
scale, by valleys and indentations in each of which runs its own
stream. Thus the rains and melted snows are all collected in an infinity
Spain. IX. RIVERS or srnm. 31
of ramifications, and carried by these tributary conduits into one of the
6 main trunks, or great rivers: all these, with the exception of the
Ebro, empty themselves into the Atlantic. The Duero and Tagus,
unfortunately for Spain, disembogue in Portugal, thus becoming a
portion of a foreign dominion exactly where their commercial import
ance is the greatest. Philip II. “ the prudent,” saw the true value of
the possession of Portugal, which rounded and consolidated Spain, and
insured to her the possession of these outlets of internal produce, and
inlets for external commerce. Portugal, that omgulus iste, annexed to
Spain, gave more real power to his throne than the dominion of entire
continents across the Atlantic. Nor has the vision of a Peninsular
union ever faded from the cabinets of Spain. The Mifio, which is the
shortest of these rivers, runs through a bosom of fertility. The Tajo,
Tagus, which the fancy of poets has sanded with gold and embanked
with roses, tracks its dreary way through rocks and comparative
barrenness. The Guadiana creeps through lonely Estrernadura, in
fecting the low plains with miasma and ague. The Guadalquivir eats
out its deep banks amid the sunny olive-clad regions of Andalucia.
Spain abounds with brackish streams, Salados, and with salt-mines,
the remnants of the saline deposits, after the evaporation of the sea
waters. The central soil, strongly impregnated with saltpetre, and
always arid, is every day becoming more so, from the Oastilian antipathy
against trees. No skreen checks the power of evaporation; nothing
protects or preserves moisture. The soil, more and more baked and
calcined, has in some parts almost ceased to be available for cultivation:
from want of plantations and dykes the slopes are liable to denudation of
soil after heavy rain. Nothing breaks the descent of'the water; hence
the naked, barren stone summits of many of the sierras, which, pared
and peeled of every particle capable of nourishing vegetation, loom
forth, the skeletons of a land in which life seems extinct ; not only is
the soil thus lost, but the detritus thus washed down forms bars at the
mouths of rivers, or chokes up and raises their beds; thus they are
rendered liable to overflow their banks, and to convert the adjoining
plains into pestilential swamps. The volume of water in the principal
rivers of Spain has diminished, and is diminishing. Rivers which once
were navigable, are so no longer, while the artificial canals which were to
have been substituted remain unfinished : the progress of deterioration
advances, as little is done to counteract or amend what every year
must render more diflicult and expensive, while the means of repair
and correction will diminish in equal proportion, from the poverty occa
_ sioned by the evil, and by the fearful extent which it will be allowed
to attain. The majority of Spanish rivers—tor1-ents rather—scanty
during the summer time, flow away with rapidity when filled by rains
or melting snow; they are, moreover, much exhausted by being drained
off, sangrado, bled, for the purposes of artificial irrigation. The scarcity
of rain in the central table—lands diminishes the regular supply of water
to the springs of the rivers; and what falls is soon sucked up by a
parched, dusty, and thirsty soil, or evaporated by the dryness of the
atmosphere. An absence of lakes forms another feature in this country
of mountains. _
These geographical peculiarities of Spain must be remembered by
the traveller, and particularly the existence of the great central eleva
32 ix. CLl.\lA'l‘E or CENTRAL SPAIN. Sect. I.
tion, which, when once attained, is apt to be forgotten. The country
rises in terraces from the coast, and when once the ascent is accom
plished, no real descent takes places. The roads indeed apparently ascend
and descend, but the mean heiglit is seldoin diminished, and the in
terior hills or plains are merely the undulations of one mountain.
The traveller is often deceived at the apparent low licight of snow
clad ranges, such as the Guadarama, whose coldness will be accounted
for by adding the elevation of their base above the level of the sea.
The palace of the Escorial, which is placed at the foot of the Gua
darama, and in a seeming plain, stands in reality at 2725 feet above
Valencia, while the summer residence of the king at La Granju, in
the same chain, is 30 feet higher than the summit of Vesuvius. This,
indeed, is a castle in the air—a chateau en Espagne, and worthy of
the most German potentate to whom that element belongs. The mean
temperature on the plateau of Spain is as 15°, while that of the coast
is as 18° and 19°, in addition to the protection from northem winds
which their mountainous backgrounds afford ; nor is the traveller less
deceived as regards the height of the interior mountains than he is
with the table-land plains; his eye \vanders over a vast level extent
bounded only by the horizon, or a faint blue line of other distant
sierras; this space, which appears one level, is intersected with deep
ravines, barrancas, in which villages lie concealed, and streams, arroyos,
flow unperceived; another important effect of this central elevation is
the searching dryness and rarefication of the air. It is often highly
prejudicial to strangers: the least exposure, which is very tempting
undera burning sun, will bring on ophthalmia, irritable colics, and
inflammatory diseases of the lungs and vital organs. Such are the
causes of the pulmonia (the endemic disease of Madrid), which carries
ofl the invalid in a few days.
These are the geographical, geological, and natural divisions of the
Peninsula, throughout which a leading prevailing principle may be
traced. The artificial, political, and conventional arrangement into
kingdoms and provinces is so much the work of accident and of absence
of design; indeed, one who only looked at the map might sometimes
fancy that some of the partitions were expressly devised for the sake of
being purposely inconvenient and incongruous.
These provincial divisions were however formed by the gradual union
of many smaller and previously independent portions, which have been .
taken into Spain as a whole, just as our inconvenient counties constitute
the kingdom of England. Long habit has reconciled the inhabitants to
these divisions, which practically suit them better than any new
arrangement, however better calculated according to statistical and
geographical principles. The French, when they obtained possession of
the Peninsula, with their fondness for departmentalization, tried to re
model and recombine ancient and antipathetic provinces, to carve out
neatly and apportion districts, a la mode dc Paris, in utter disregard
of the wishes, necessities, and prejudices of the respective natives. No
sooner was their intrusive rule put to an end, than the Spaniards
shook off their paper arrangements, and reverted, like the Italians, to
those which pre-existed, and which, however defective in theory, and
irregular on the man, suited their inveterate habits. In spite of the
failure of the French, Spain has been recently re-arranged, and the
Spain. ix. POPULATION. 33
people parcelled out like pieces on a chess-board. It will long, however,
defy the power of all the reformers, commissioners, of all the doctri
naires, of all the cortes, effectually to efface the ancient, deeply-impressed
divisions, which are engraven on the retentive characters of the inhabi
tants of each distinct province, who next to hating their neighbours,
hate innovations.
The political divisions of former times consisted of 14 large provinces,
some of which were called kingdoms, as Granada, Seville, Cordova,
Jaen, Murcia, Valencia, &c. : others principalities, like Asturias :
others counties, like Barcelona, Niebla, &c.: and lastly,~others were
called provinces, like New and Old Castile, Estremadura, &c. : Biscay
was termed el Senorio. Spain, was then divided by “ decree,” into
49 provinces, viz.; Alava, Albacete, Alicante, Almeria, Avila,
Badajoz, las Baleares, Barcelona, Burgos, Caceres, Cadiz, las Canarias,
Castellon dc la Plana, Ciudad Real, Cordoba, la Corufia, Cuenca,
Gerona, Granada, Guadalajara, Guipuzcoa, Huelva, Huesca, Jaen, Leon,
Lérida, Logrofio, Lugo, Madrid, Malaga, Murcia, Navarre, Orense,
Oviedo, Palencia, Pontevedra, Salamanca, Santander, Segovia, Sevilla,
Soria, Tarragona, Teruel, Toledo, Valencia, Valladolid, Vizcaya, Zamora,
Zaragoza. There is now a scheme to reduce these 49 in to 20 provinces, in
the hopes of diminishing departamental expenditure and malversation,
and to further the centralizing system, which France has made the
fashion.
The present population, with a slow tendency to increase, may be
taken at 13,000,000, although Madoz rates it at 15,000,000. Drought,
the great bar to the fertility of soil, also tends to check fertility of women.
The prevalence, again, of foundling hospitals, and the large number of
natural children exposed by unnatural parents in these charnel-houses
to a certain massacre of innocents, and the drain of deadly Madrid on
the provinces at large, keeps down the scanty population. The revenue
may be taken at some 12,000,000Z. Badly collected, and at a ruinous per
centage, it is exposed to infinite robbery and jobbery. In Spain a little
money, like oil, will stick to every finger that handles it.
Spain, in the time of Ferdinand Vl I. one of the most backward
nations in Europe, has since his death made considerable advance.
The sleeper has been awakened by the clash of civil wars, and, however
far the lagging is yet in arrear, a certain social and administrative progress
is perceptible. The details connected with each ministerial department,
their separate duties, and what is or ought to be done under each head,
Justice, Finance, Home, Board of Trade, War, and Marine, are set forth
in the Spanien und seine fartschreitemie Entwiekelzmg, Julius v.
Minutoli, Berlin, 1852, but the infinite details of the working and social
life are put by him in too complimentary a style. Most Spanish things
so tinted d la rose on his paper appear perfect; but when tested by prac
tice, many a magazine will turn out to be an arsenal of empty boxes, and
many an institution of peace and war be found “ wanting in everything
most essential at the critical moment.” A swelling, pompous show of
canvas is spread over a battered, unseaworthy hull. The use made of
our Handbook by this industrious Prussian, and also by his country
man Zeigler in his recent Reise in Spanien, 1852, is flattering.
No doubt Spain has taken part in the general progress gf the last
c
34 IX. TOURS LN smix. Sect. I.
score of years, and a marked improvement is perceptible, especially in
medical science, and in the national education of the people. While
in 1803 only 1 in 340 were educated, it is now, \ve are told, calculated
that to every 1 in 17 the means of elementary schooling is offered.
If this be true, then England, the leader of moral civilization as France
is of sensual, may well take a leaf from the horn-book of Spain.
Touas IN SPAIN.
However much the Gotho-Spaniards have destroyed, disfigured, and
ill-appreciated the relics of the Moor-—in their eyes an infidel invader
and barbarian—the remains of that elegant and enlightened people will
always constitute to the rest of mankind some of the foremost objects
of curiosity in the Peninsula, and are indeed both in number and
importance quite unequalled in Europe.
Hnzrs TO Invamns.
The superiority of the climate of the South of Spain over all other
regions of Europe, which was pointed out in our former editions, is now
ratified in the able and practical treatise of Dr. Francis,* the “ Clark of
Spain,” and the first to grapple professionally, after much personal expe
rience and examination, with this hygienic subject. Fair Italy, with
her classical prestige, her Catholic associations, her infinite civilization,
and ready access, has long been the land of promise to our travellers
expatriated in search of health. But the steam and rail of England
have now annihilated time and space, and her pen has pioneered the
path to distant Spain, and dissipated the delusions and dangers of
banditti and garlic. Independently of a more southem latitude, the
geometrical configuration of Spain is superior ; while the Apeamines, the
backbone of Italy, stretching N. to S., offer no barrier to northern cold,
the sierras of Spain, running E. and W., afford complete shelter to
the littoral strips. Again, where the skiey influences of Italy are
enervating and depressing, the climate of the Peninsula is bracing and
exhilarating. Free as a whole from malaria, dryness is the emphatic
quality of the climate. Malaya, on the whole, may be pronounced
the most favoured winter residence in Europe, and justly claims to
be the real Elysian fields—pace those of Paris and Naples.
As Spain itself is a conglomeration of elevated mountains, the treeless,
denuded interior, scorching and calcined in summer, keen, cold and wind
blown in winter, is prejudicial to the invalid; the hygienic charac
teristics of the maritime coasts to the VV. from Vigo to San-Sebastian,
are soothing and sedative—a relaxing influence prevailing as the
French frontier is approarhed ; the strip to the E., from Barcelona to
Cadiz, is more bracing and exhilarating; midway, in Murcia, occur the
driest regions in Europe, with Malaga for the happy medium.
The benefits derived by well-timed change of climate in cases of con
sumption, dyspepsia, bronchitis, and chronic complaints, the climacteric
failure of vis vitm, and the vivifying influence on the health of mind and
bo:ly—reoxygenated, as it were—a.re matters of fact. The stimulus of
glowing light, and the effect of warm and constant sunshine on sur
faces chilled by the wet blanket of fog and cloud, works wonders. The
insensible transpiration proceeds constantly; the skin then does its
work to the relief of the internal organs. The water drunk in Spain,
where—in the warmer portions-—diabetes and dropsy are little known,
is deliciously pure. The wines of the south especially--Malaga and
Manzanilla—-are dry, cheap, and wholesome. The cuisine, in a country
where people eat to live, not live to eat, will indeed keep body and
soul together, but will tempt no weak and wearied “stomach ” to re
‘ Change of Climate, &c., with an account of the most eligible places of residence for
lnvallds in Spain, Portugal, Algeria, &c., by D. J. T. Francis, MJ). London. 1858.
38 IX. nmrs T0 mv.u.u>s. Sect. I.
3 pletion. The peptic benefits of climate on the natives are evident by
the way they digest an oil, vinegar, and vegetable diet, and survive
chocolate, sweetmeats, and bile-creating compounds. The sustaining
efiect is proved by the untiring activity of the very under-fed masses,
where many seem to live on air, like chamelions. How strong are
Spanish lungs—teste their songs—and how few are their winter-coughs—
taste their churches !—The brain, again, in a land of No se sabe, and
where there is no reading public, no hourly penny-post or Times, is left
in comparative rest—1-are boons these for the two organs that have
the least holiday under the mental and physical toil entailed by
our over-refined civilization. The very dullness of Malaga—1’rose
is the tutelar of Spanish towns—benefits the invalid. There are no
wearying aesthetic lions to be encountered—no Madame Starké to be
“ done”—no marble-floored and peopled Vaticans to be slidden through
—no cold Coliseums to be sketched—no Fountains-of-Egeria picnics
no “season ” dinnerings and late balls, to excite, fever and freeze by
turns: at Malaga the invalid leads a quiet life, calm as the climate,
and, blessed with an otiose oriental real dolce-far-niente existence, can
leave nature to her full 1/is medicat-rim. To be always able to bask in
the open air, to throw physio to the dogs, to watch the sun, the
country, and the people, with the satisfaction of every day getting
better, are consolations and occupations sufficient. The invalid will,
of course, consult his medical adviser on the choice of residence best
suited to his individual case: and the specialities of each locality are
given by Dr. Francis with medical detail. The precautions necessary
to be observed are no less fully set forth by him, and the genera!
benefits derivedfrom a riding tour in Spain pressed on the convalescent.
And we too, who have thus wandered over many a hundred leagues of
wild and tawny Spain, can fully speak to the relief thus afforded to
severe dyspepsia, and may be permitted to say a little word.
Cato, a great traveller in ancient Spain, thought it a matter for
repentance in old age to have gone by sea where he might have gone
by land. And, touching on the means of locomotion, Rails and Post
horses certainly get quicker over a country, but the pleasure of the
remembrance, and the benefits derived by travel, are commonly in an
inverse ratio to the ease and rapidity with which the journey is per
formed.* In addition to the accurate knowledge which is acquired of the
country, (for there is no map like this mode of surveying), and of a con
siderable and by no means the worst portion of its population, a Riding
Expedition to a civilian, is almost equivalent to serving a campaign
It imparts a new life, which is adopted on the spot, and which soon
appears quite natural, from being in perfect harmony and fitness with
everything around, however strange to all previous habits and notions ',
it takes the conceit out'of a man for the rest of his life-it makes him
bear and forbear. There is just a dash of difficulty and danger to give
dignity to the adventure : but how soon does all that was disagreeable
fade from the memory, while all that was pleasant alone remains—nay,
even hardships, when past, become bright passages to the recollection.
It is a capital practical school of moral discipline, just as the hardiest
* In the first edition of this Handbook the whole subject of a riding tour, horses, servants,
and modus operandi is discussed at much length.
Spain. IX. memo roun. 39
mariners are nurtured in the roughest seas. Then and there will be
learnt golden rules of patience, perseverance, good temper, and good
fellowship: the individual man must come out, for better or worse ; on
these occasions, where wealth and rank are stripped of the aids and
appurtenances of conventional superiority, he will draw more on his
own resources, moral and physical, than on any letter of credit; his
wit will be sharpened by invention-suggesting necessity. Then and
there, when up, about and abroad, will be shaken off dull sloth. Action!
will be the watchword. The traveller will blot out from his Spanish
dictionary the fatal phrase of procrastination— by-and-by, a street
which leads to the house of nez-er, “per la calle de olespues, se va :2 la
oasa ole nunca.” Reduced to shift for himself, he will see the evil of
waste, “ sol vertida, mmca b-ien cogida ;” the folly of improvidence and
the \visdom of order, “ quien bien ata, him desata ; ” fast bind, fast un
bind. He will whistle to the winds the paltry excuse of idleness, the “ no
se puede,” the “ it is impossible ” of Spaniards. He will soon learn, by
grappling with difficulties, how they are best to be overcome,-—how soft
as silk becomes the nettle when it is sternly grasped, which would
sting the tender-handed touch,-—h0w powerful an element of realising
the object proposed, is indomitable volition, and the moral conviction
that we can and will accomplish it. He will never be scared by shadows
thin as air! when one door shuts another opens, “ cuando unapuerta ce
cierm, otra se abre,” and he who pushes on surely arrives, “ guien no cansa
alcanza.” These sorts of independent expeditions are equally conducive
to health of body: after the first few days of the new fatigue are got
over, the frame becomes of iron, “ hecho ale bronce.” The living in the
pure air, the sustaining excitement of novelty, exercise, and constant
occupation, are all sweetened by the “ studio fallente laborem,” which
renders even labour itself a pleasure; a new and vigorous life is infused
into every bone and muscle; early to bed and early to rise, if it does
not make all brains wise, at least invigorates the gastric juices, makes
a man forget that he has a liver, that storehouse of mortal misery—
bile, blue pill, and blue devils. This health is one of the secrets of
the amazing charm which seems inherent to this mode of travelling in
spite of all the apparent hardships with which it is surrounded in the
abstract. Escaping from the meshes of the west end of London, we
are transported into a. new world ; every day the out-of-door panorama
is varied ; now the heart is cheered and the countenance made glad by
gazing on plains overflowing with milk and honey, or laughing with
oil and wine, where the orange and citron bask in the glorious sun
beams. Anon we are lost amid the wild magnificence of Nature, who,
careless of mortal admiration, lavishes with proud indifference her fairest
charms where most unseen, her grandest forms where most inaccessible.
Every day and everywhere we are unconsciously funding a stock of
treasures and pleasures of memory, to be hived in our bosoms like
the honey of the bee, to cheer and sweeten our after-life ; which, delight
fuLeven as in the reality, wax stronger as we grow in years, and feel
that these feats of our youth, like sweet youth itself, can never be our
portion again. Of one thing the reader may be assured—that dear
will be to him, as is now to us, the remembrance of these wild and
joyous rides through tawny Spain, where hardship was forgotten ere
-10 ix. MINERAL nuns. Sect. I.
undergone: those sweet-aired hills—those rocky crags and torrents-—
those fresh valleys which communicate their o\vn freshness to the
heart—that keen relish for hard fare won by hunger—the best of
sauces--those sound slumbers on harder couch, earned by fatigue, the
downiest of pillows—the braced nerves—the spirits light, elastic, and
joyous—that freedom from care—tliat health of body and soul which
ever rewards a close communion with Nature—and the shufliing off
the frets and factitious wants of the thick-pent artificial city.
MINERAL Barns.
These are very numerous, and have always been much frequented.
In every part of the Peninsula such names as Oaldas, the Roman
Calidas, and Alhama, the Arabic Al-hdmiin, denote the continuance of
baths, in spite of the changes of nations and language. From Al
hamfin, the Hhamman of Cairo, the name of our comfortable Covent
Garden Hummums is derived; but very different are the Spanish
accommodations, which are mostly rude, inadequate, and inconvenient.
The Junta Suprema de Sanidad, or Olficial Board of Health, has pub
lished a list of the names of the principal baths, and their proper
seasons. At each a medical superintendent resides, who is appointed
by government; and who will swea.r—if given a double fee—that his
waters in particular will cure every evil under the sun.
O
X.—SKELETON Totms.
The Peninsula may also be divided into regions which contain
peculiar objects of interest. The vestiges of epochs run in strata,
according to the residence of the different nations who have occupied
Spain; thus the Roman, Moorish, and Gotho-Spaniard periods are
marked by evidences distinguishing and indelible as fossils.
N0. 1. A Roman ANTIQUABIAN Toes.
Seville. June. Coria, R. Valencia, C.
ltaliea, R. Plasencia, R. Murviedro, C.
Rio Tinto, R. Capara, R. July. Tarragona, C. S.
May. Merida, R. Salamanca, R. Barcelona, C. S.
Alcantara, R. Segovia, R. Martorell, C.
Aleonetar, R. Toledo, C. I
N0. 2. A Moomsn ANTIQUARIAN Tova.
Seville. June. Granada, C. June. Malaga, R.
May. Cordova, C. Alhama, R. Tarifa, R. S.
Jaen, C.
Towns ron NATUBALIST8.
The natural history of Spain has yet to be really investigated and‘
described. This indeed is a subject worthy of all who wish to “ book
something new,” and the soil is almost virgin. The harvest is rich,
and although labourers have long been wanting, able pioneers have
broken the ground, and a. zealous band is following. The great extent
and peculiar conformation of the Peninsula. otfer every possible scope
42 x. BOTANICAL rouns. Sect. I.
to the geologist and botanist. The damp valleys of the Asturias and
the western provinces combine the varieties of Wales and Switzerland ;
the central portions contain the finest cereal regions in the world, while
the mountains of Andalucia, covered with eternal snow, fumish an
entire botanical range from the hardiest lichen to the sugar-cane
which flourishes at their bases: vast districts of dehesas, or abandoned
tracts, bear in spring time the aspect of a hot-house growing wild;
such is the profusion of flowers which waste their sweets, noted and
gathered but imperfectly, in this Paradise of the wild bee, this garden
of weeds, albeit the Barbaries Botanica Hisparrica, complained of by
Linnaeus, is now in a fair way to be eradicated, and this very much
by foreigners, as the Spaniard, like the old Romans and the Oriental,
is little sensible to the beauties of nature for herself, when unconnected
with the idea of his pleasure or profit——garden or farm; and an
antipathy to trees forms quite a second Castilian nature.
Consult on the Flora Hispanica, the works of Quer Cavanillas and
those named by Miguel Colmeiro, 8v0. 1846, in his list of Spanish
botanical books. The botanist and entomologist may peruse with
advantage the Ret'se—L‘rinnerungen aus Spanien, by E. A. Rossmiissler,
2 vols., Leipzig, 1854, especially on the subject of snails.
Naturalists-—happy men—for whom Nature spreads a bountiful
banquet, whose infinite variety neither time nor man can destroy,
should by all means ride on their excursions. Much of the best ground
is totally uncarriageable. Remember, above all things, to bring all
necessary implements and scientific appliances with you from England,
as neither they nor their pursuits are things of Spain.
The eastern and southern portions of Spain should not be visited
before May, or the northern much before June.
To geology, a new science even in Europe, the Moro-Spaniards are
only beginning to pay attention-—mining excepted—and even there again
theforeigner has dug up his share at least of treasure buried in the native
napkin. \Vhat a new and wide field for the man of t-he hammer!
Here are to be found the marbles with which the Romans decorated
their temples, the metal-pregnant districts which, in the hands of the
Carthaginians, rendered Spain the Peru and California of the old world !
We are enabled, by the kindness of Sir Roderick Murchison, to
ofifer the substance of various memoirs and notices on the geological
structure and sedimentary deposits of Spain, prepared chiefly by Mon
sieur de Verneuil, his intelligent collaborateur in Russia. The central
part of Spain is distinguished by 3 chains of mountains which con
stitute the skeleton of the country, the Guadarrama, the Montes cle
Toledo, and the Sierra Morena. Having emerged before the secondary
period, these ridges formed islands, in each of which are traces of
silurian or other palzeozoic rocks, and around which were accumulated
the Jurassic and the cretaceous deposits.
Primary roclcs.—One the highest of these, the Guadarrama, is princi
pally composed of granite, gneiss and other crystalline schists. Towards
the E. these disappear under the sedimentary formations, whilst to the
W. they proceed to the frontier of Portugal. The primary rocks occur
in two other and very distant parts of Spain. The province of Gallicia
is principally composed of granite, gneiss and mica-schist, occasionally
surrounding patches of slate and limestone; these rocks are of great
_~
Spain. x. GEOLOGY or smrs. 43
antiquity,’ and form a sort of expansion of the palaeozoio chain of Can
tabria. The Sierra Nevada, S. E. of Granada, offers an example of a >~-—.1.r_-—,Q~|4.v=-_,r.—*
great mass of crystalline schists. The abundance of garnets in the
mica-schist, the crystalline structure and magnesian condition of the
thick band of limestone which surrounds the central part, indicate the
energy of the metamorphic action which has here taken place.
Paloeozoic rocks:-The Sierra Morena is the tract in which most of
the Silurian fossils have been discovered. This range is composed of
slates, psammites, quartzites and sandstones; the strata often placed
by violent dislocations in a vertical position. Making a section across i
the chain N. to S., the formations succeed each other in an ascending
order. The oldest or lowest traces of life, trilobites, occur in black
shivery slates. The upper Silurian rocks are poorly represented in
the Sierra Morena, the Devonian rocks more fully. The carboniferousi
deposits, situated towards its southern part, contain great masses of lime
stone. The two sides of the Sierra Oantabrica in Leon and the Asturias,
present deposits of Devonian fossils, and ofl'er points of pilgrim
age for all palaeontologists. These Devonian rocks constitute the
axis of the Sierra Cantabrica on its southern side, and are covered in
the Asturias or on the N. by the richest coal-field of Spain. In general
the carboniferous strata are vertical ; this disadvantage is lessened by the
mountainous relief of the country, in some parts of which the beds of‘
coal can be worked 1200 or 1300 feet above the level of the streams.
The depth of the whole group may be estimated at 10,000 or 12,000 feet..
No fossils of the Permian rocks have ever been found in Spain, but
the analogy of rocks and stratigraphical indications have referred to that
formation the red magnesian limestone, and the gypsiferous marls of‘
Montiel, of the lakes of Ruidera, and the famous cave of Montesinos in
La Mancha.
Secondary rocks.—'T‘he Trias triple may be traced from the Pyrenees
to the provinces of Santander and Asturias, but it does not contain the
3 series of rocks from which the name originated; and the muschel
kalk being entirely wanting, it is reduced to marls and sandstones of '
red colour placed between the lias and the carboniferous strata. The»
Jurassic and cretaceous groups extend over most of the eastern and"
southern part of Spain, covering vast areas in Catalonia, Arragon,
Valencia, Murcia, Malaga and Ronda; lying upon the red sandstone,
they constitute most of the high lands and mountains which to the E.
of Madrid make the divortia aqum-um between the Atlantic and the
Mediterranean sea ; they surround the central and more ancient parts -,_
along the Guadarrama the chalk penetrates into the very heart
of the country. It will prove a hard task to separate the Jurassic‘
and cretaceous rocks of Spain; especially in the S., where the meta
morphic action has produced so many alterations in the rocks, and has i
so obliterated the fossils. The districts of Malaga and Ronda seem to- 1
possess a geological constitution very analogous to that of the Venetian i
Alps. In effect, beneath the miocene and nummulitic rocks, rises it
compact white limestone not to be distinguished from the Italian scaglia
and biancone, succeeded near Antequera and other places by a marble
of reddish colour full of Ammonites, which may be compared to the‘
Oxfordian Ammonitico rosso of the Italians.
In the eastern regions, mountains more than 5000 feet high are com-
-14 g x. ononoor or seam. Sect. I.
posed of triassic, Jurassic, and cretaceous rocks. The greatest part of
the Jurassic fossils belong to the upper lias. The Oxfordian Jura
occurs at Teruel; but at present the up rpart of the oolitic series, or
the Portlandian group, is unknown. '1 he same may be said of the
Neocomian rocks. The chalk of Spain appears to consist only of the
hippuritic limestone and seems to correspond with the upper greensand,
but not with the Neocomian or lower greensand. Above the chalk,
and, having, apparently been submitted to the same disturbances, lie
the nummulitic rocks, the true lower and eocene well exposed in the
province of Santander. At Malaga a great discordance may be observed
between the nummulitic limestone and the miocene, or younger and
older tertiary deposits, the first being highly contorted and the second
slightly inclined.
The younger tertiary rocks cover vast areas in Spain; generally
horizontal and extending in vast plains, they contrast strongly with the
secondary and nummulitic, or older tertiary beds, which are always
" contorted and form undulating or mountainous countries. All the great
valleys of the Ebro, the Douro, the Tagus, the Guadiana and the Gua
dalquivir, have been bottoms of seas, estuaries or extensive lakes. The
purely freshwater deposits cover a larger area than the marine ones,
extending over Old and New Castile from the Cantabrian chain to the
Guadarrama, and from the Guadarrama to the Sierra Morena through
the great plains of the Mancha. In some places these deposits reach
the altitude of 2500 feet ; thus proving ho\v great elevation Spain has
undergone even in recent times ; recent in effect, to judge by the
freshwater fossil shells, identical with those living 'now, and by the
bones of great mammoths discovered in the Oerro San Isidro, near
Madrid. Most of the marine deposits, and especially those of the
basin of the Guadalquivir, are miocene, and upon them lie here and
there some small pliocene, or newer pliocene (modern) deposits, formed
on the maritime shore and composed of pebbles and fragments of an
Ostrea resembling the living species. It was probably in the most
recent of these periods that the extinctvolcanos of the Peninsulabroke out.
Three foci of eruption are known; one at the cape of Gata, the other
in the neighbourhood of Ciudarl Real, and the third near Olot in Catalonia.
The geology of Spain is not sufiiciently advanced to attempt a classi
fication of its mountains considered with respect to their periods of
elevation. The Sierra Morena is probably the most ancient; for on both
its sides the tertiary strata in contact with the old rocks are horizontal.
Near Cordova, for example, the miocene beds with the huge Olypeaster
altus are to be seen in that position, and on the northern side at Santa
Cruz de Mudela horizontal bands of freshwater limestone loaded with
Helix, lie upon highly inclined, trilobite Silurian schists. More recent
movements have taken place in the Guadarrama; since at the southern
foot of tliat high range, and on the road from Madrid to Burgos, the
same freshwater limestone is slightly elevated. In the Pyrenees, as
well as in the mountains which rise in the most southern part of Spain,
the subsoil has been fractured by violent and recent disturbances. The
tertiary formations of the Ebro, and those of Leon along the Cantabrian
chain, are often much elevated. In Leon they are even vertical near
the chain, but soon resume their horizontality to range over the great
plains of Castile.
Spain. X. SKELETON 'rour.s. - 45
No. 3. Gnonoercar. AND Mmnnanoercsn Tons.
Villa Nueva del Rio Coal Minglanilla . . . Salt
Spring. Rio Tlnto . . Copper Summer. Teruel . . . Fossils
L0grosan.Phosph.of Lime Caudete. . . Fossils
Almaden . . Quicksilver Albarracin . . . Iron
Linares . . . . Lead Daroca . . . . Iron
. Baeza . . . . Lead Calatayud . . . Iron
Granada . . . Marbles Spring. Tortosa . . . Marbles‘
Berja . . . . . Lead Cardona . - . Salt
Spring Marbella . . . . Iron Ripoll .- . . . Iron
or Macacl . . . Marbles Durango . . . Iron
Autumn.C-artagena . . Silver Summer. Bilbao . . . . Iron
Helliu . . . Sulphur Biscay . . . . Iron
Petrola - . . . Salt . Gijon . . . . Coal
No. 4. A Tons or THE CREAM or SPAIN.
May. Cadiz, S. June. Granada, C. or R. Valencia, C.
Xerez, C. Madrid, C. July. Tarragona, C. S.
Seville, S. Avila, C. Barcelona, C. S.
Cordova, C. Escorial, C. Cardona, R.
Osuna, R. Segovia, C. Igualada, R.
Ronda, R. Toledo, C. Aug. Zaragoza. C.
Gibraltar, R. Aranjuez, C. Burgos, C.
Malaga, S. July. Cuenca, R. Irun, C.
This tour comprehending samples of every city and scene, will enable
the traveller on his return to talk competently on the things of Spain.
No. 5. A SuMm:n’s Tova IN THE Norvrn or SPAIN. <
Irun, C. Jul; . Logrofio, C. Monserrat, R.
Vitoria, C. Pamplona, C. Aug. Cardona, R.
June. Bilbao, C. Pyrenees, R. Urgel, R.
Santauder, R. S. Zaragoza, C. Gerona, R.
Burgos, C. Barcelona, C. Perpiflan, C.
A pleasant long-vacation trip to the angler and water-colour painter.
No. 6. A CE.\"rn.\r. Tom: BOUND Mnnnrn.
Avila, C. July. Plasencia, R. Aug. Aranjuez, C.
Escorial, C. Aug. Yuste, R. Sept. Cuenca, R.
Segovia, C. Alcantara, R. Albarracin, R.
July. Valladolid, R. Merida. R. Solan de Cabras, R.
Salamanca, R. Talavera, R. Guadalajara, C.
Ciudad Rodrigo,R. Toledo, R. AlcaladeHenares,C.
Batuecas, R. ~ '
This home circuit, which includes some of the noblest mediaeval and
truly Spanish cities, some of the most picturesque and historically
interesting sites, is doubly refreshing to mind and body after the
withering, dessicating influence of a residence at Madrid.
No. 7. Arr Arvrrsrrcsr. Toun—'rnn Prcruansoun.
As Spain, despite of our Roberts and Vllests, continues still much in
the dark ages of Indian-ink in these matters; artists, to whose benefit this
Handbook aspires, should, before leaving England, lay in a stock of
materials, such as block-books, liquid water-colours, camel-hair brushes,
permanentwhite, and good lead-pencils.—N.B. Before using them,attend
46 x. srusnnrox TOURS. Sect. I.
to our suggestions at page 14, and prepare for meeting little sympathy
from the so-called better classes. Often, in truth, will the man of the
pencil sigh, and say, why will not the people show us themselves, their
real homes, and ways P why will they conceal what the rest of the world
wishes most to see and sketch? Servile imitators of the foreigner, whom
they affect to despise, they seem in practice to deny their fatherland and
nationality. They bore us with their pale copies of the long-tailed
coats of London, and the commonplace columns of the Paris Bourse.
They deluge us with all we abhor, and hide the attractive panorama
which Spain presents in her own dear self, when her children, all tag,
tassel, and filagree, dance under fig-tree and vine, while behind cluster
Gothic ruins or Moorish arches, scenes and sights ravishing to all eyes
save those of the Espaiiol ilustrado ; his newly enlightened and civilized
vision, blind to all this native beauty, colour, and originality, sees in
it only the degradation of poverty and decay; nay resenting the
admiration of the stranger, from which he infers some condescending
compliment to picturesque barbarians, he intreats the inspection of his
paletot, or drags him away to sketch some spick and span academical
abortion, to raise which some gem of ancient art has been levelled.
Ronda, R. Escorial, C. Santander, R.
Gibraltar, R. Avila, C. Bilbao, R.
Alhama. Plaseneia, R. Vera, R.
Malaga, R. Juste. Jaca, R.
Granada, R. Batuecas, R. Huesca, R.
Lanjaron, R. El Vierzo, R. P renees, R.
Elche, R. Cangas de Tineo, R. anresa, R.
Cuenca, R. Oviedo, R. Monserrat, R.
Albarraein, R. Pajares, C. Rosas, R.
Toledo, C. Reinosa, R.
Military and naval men, and all who take interest (and what
Englishman does not P) in the fair fame of our arms, must ever connect
the Peninsula with one great association, the \Var of Giants waged
there by Wellington, and all who desire to know the real rights of it,
may stow in their saddlebags the well-compiled Annals of the Penin
sular Campaigns, by Hamilton, revised by F. Hardman, 1849. Those
who cannot, will at least find that the author of this Handbook, who has
performed the pilgrimage to these hallo\ved sites, has, so far as limited
space permits, recorded fads.
No. 8. A Mrrmranv arm Navar. Tenn.
Cadiz . Burgos . .
Barrosa . . . Navarrete . . .
Trafalgar . . Espinosa. . . Old Came‘
Tarifa . . . Andalucia. Somosierra . ..
Gibraltar . . Rioseco . . .
Granada . . . Benavente . .
Navas de Tolosa Salamanca . . Leon.
Bailen. Ciudad Rodrigo
Castalla . . . El Bodon . .
Almansa . . . . La Corufia . .
Valencia . . V“1"“°‘“- Sail Payo . . G H. .
Murviedro - . Vigo . . . . a ma‘
Ordal. Cape Finisterre.
-Spain. x. sxsnsros TOURS. - 47
Barcelona . . Arroyo Moliuos .
Molins del Rey . Almaraz . . .
Bruch . . . Badajoz . . . Estremadura.
Rosas . . . - Albuera . . .
Gerona . . . Cataloma" Gevora . . .
Figueras . . Medellin.
Lérida . . . Talavera . . .
Almenara . . Madrid . . .
Belchite . . . Ocafia . . . New Castile.
Zaragoza . . l A"ag°n' - Ucles . . .
'Tudela . . . Villaviciosa. . .
Pamplona . . Navarre. Montiel . . .
Vera . . . . Ciudad Real. . La Mancha.
San Marcial . . Sierra Morena .
The Bidasoa. .
?Iae“mS£’ia5_“a? Basque provinces.
Vitoria. . . .
Bilbao . . .
There is very little good ancient sculpture in Spain, and there never
was much ; for when the Peninsula became a Roman province, the arts
of Greece were in the decline, and whatever sculpture was executed here
was the work either of Romans or Spaniards, who never excelled in that
art. Again, most of whatever statuary was introduced into the Penin
sula by the Trajans and Adrians, was destroyed by the Vandal Goths,
who, as Christians, abhorred the graven images of pagan gods, and
hated Rome, its works, and especially those connected with the fine
arts, to which they attributed degeneracy and etfeminacy; thus, when
they struck down the world-oppressor, they cast the statues of its chiefs
from the pedestal, and the idols from the altar. The Goth was sup
planted by the Moor, to whose creed iconoclasm was essential ; he swept
away whatever had escaped from his predecessor; nay, the pagan
fragments and papal substitutes were alike treated with studied insult,
either buried, to prevent resurrection, in the foundations of their build
ings, or worked in as base materials for their city walls. The Spaniards
as a people have no great archaeological tendency. Born and bred in a
country whose soil is strewed with the ruins of creeds and dynasties,
and their edifices,theyview the relics with the familiarity and contempt of
the Bedouin,
i excavate as old
at all, it isstones, which
in hopes of he neither
finding admires
buried nor preserves;
hoards if they
of coin ; accord
ingly, whenever mere antique remains are dug up, they have too often
been reburied, or those which any rare alcalde of taste may have collected,
are left at his death to chance and decay; in the provincial towns the
fragments are lumpei together after the fashion of a mason’s stoneyard.
Classification and arrangement are not Spanish or Oriental qualities.
The Church, again, almost the sole patron of sculpture, only encou
raged that kind which best served its own purpose. She had little
feeling for ancient art for itself, which, if over-studied, necessarily
has a tendency to reproduce a heathen character and anti-Christian.
Cathedral and convent also, who had their own models of Astartes,
Minervas, and Jupiters, in their images of the Virgin and saints,
abhorred arival idol. Thus Florez and other antiquarians (the best of
whom have been clergymen and busied about the archaeology of their
Spain. x. smnrsn SCULPTURE. 49
own Church and religion constantly apologise for bestowing attention
on such un- Christian inquiries. '
The historical research of Spaniards has hitherto been seldom critical ;
they loved to flounder about Tubal and Hercules; and when people
have recourse to mythology, it is clear that history will not serve their
ends. The discussion and authenticity of a monk’s bone have long
been of more importance than a relic of Phidias. Yet Spain may be
said to be “potted ” for antiquarians, as the conservative climate of
many portions of the Peninsula rivals even that of Egypt, in the absence
of damp, “ your whoreson destroyer.” Thus Roman bridges, aqueducts,
tanks, and causeways exist in actual use, almost unimpaired ; nay, even
the fragile Tarkish, the plaster-of-Paris wall-embroidery, the “ diaper,
or pargetting,” of the Moors, often looks, after the lapse of ten centuries,
wherever man has not destroyed it, almost as fresh and perfect as when
first put up. The catena of monuments from the cradle of the restored .-_-.
monarchy is almost complete; and, such is the effect of climate, that
they even disappoint from lacking the venerable aerugo of age to which
we are accustomed in a less beneficent climate; so many things in Spain
look younger by centuries than they really are.
The best and most national sculpture of Spain is either mediaeval or
consists of religious subjects, sepulchral monuments or graven images ;
unfortunately many of the former, from being placed in convents founded
expressly for the burial place of nobles and prelates, were first mutilated
by the enemy and have perished since the suppression of monasteries.
The Spanish name for a site or vault destined to many burials of one
family, is oddly enough termed a Pantheon. Some of the most mag
nificent mausoleums were executed by Italian artists from Genoa and
Florence, to whom several Spaniards proved worthy rivals. These
memorials are among the choice things to be observed. The Christian
sentiment rules impressively in them; there is no aping the creed or
costume of Pagan antiquity,—-everything speaks of the orthodox faith
of the period and people ; the prelate and the soldier alike lie stretched
on the bed of death, and the hands clasped in prayer, now that sword
and crozicr are laid aside, indicate a trust in another life. Emblems of
human fragility they lay flat and dead, while faith was alive: but as
infidelity crept in, worldly pride kept pace, and sepulchral figures began
to rise, first on elbows, then on seats, to stand boldly bolt upright at
last.
Many of these fine Spanish sepulchres have been carefully and accu
rately drawn by Don Valentin Carclerera, to be hereafter, we trust,
engraved, and thus in some sort preserved.
Smnrsn SCULPTURE.
Spanish sculpture is so peculiar in one branch, and has hitherto been
so little critically considered, that the attention of the scholar and
archaeologist may be called to it in apage or two. This branch includes
the holy images, and these Simulacros y Imagenes, are as little changed in
name and object as the simulacra et imagines of the Pagan Romans.
Some are destined to be worshiped in niches and on altars, others to
be carried about in the streets by cofradias, or brotherhoods, for adora
tiog duringIrelig'i0l18 ceremonies, and especially during passion week,
PAIN.— . D
50 x. sraxrsn nsuoxous SCULPTURE. Sect. I.
whence such graven figures are called Pesos. They are the identical
goava, the ¢¢8wAa, the idols which the lust of the human eye required,
the deli or cheats of the devil, whence S. Isidoro derives the name of
an invention which nowhere now rules more triumphantly than in his
own Seville.
The great demand for these carvings has induced many first-rate
artists in Spain to devote themselves to this branch of sculpture ; hence
Cano, Montafies, Roldan, Becerra, Juni, and Fernandez rank exactly
as Daedalus, Emilis, and others did among the ancients. The fine
specimens of their works have a startling reality; the stone statues of
monks actually seem fossils of a once living being; many others are
exquisitely conceived and executed; unfortunately, from the prudery of
Spanish draperies, much of the anatomical excellence is concealed
from being dressed and painted; strictly speaking, they attempt too
much. The essence of statuary is form, and to clothe a statue, said
Byron, is like translating Dante: a marble statue never deceives; the
colouring it does, and is a device beneath the severity of sculpture.
The imitation of life may surprise, but, like colossal toys, barbers’
blocks, and wax-work figures, when bad, it chiefly pleases the ignorant
and children of a large or small growth, to whom a painted doll gives
more pleasure than the Apollo Belvidere. The resemblance is obvious,
and cannot give pleasure, from want of the transparency of skin and
the absence of life. The imitation, so exact in form and colour, suggests
the painful idea of a dead body, which astatue does not. Most of
these images appear to strangers at first revolting or ridiculous; but
the genius of the Spaniard seeks the material and natural rather than
spiritual and ideal, and the masses require objects of adoration suited
to their defective taste and knowledge, so their sapient church has largely
provided for their cravings—hence the legions of tinsel caricatures of
the human and divine which encumber the houses of God, but which
delight and affect the nation at large, much more than a statue by
Phidias. The illiterate congregations gaze with a sincere faith; they
come to worship, not to criticise, and bow implicitly down, with all
their bodies and souls, before the stocks and stones set up for them by
theinpastors and masters. The devotional feeling prevails entirely over
the aesthetic; and at all events these tangible and bodily representations
of persons and events connected with the Scriptures and church legends,
realised them to those who could see, but not read, and thus did their
work well before the schoolmaster was abroad. Now they have served
their turn, and when the dislocated and desecrated groups are moved from
the temple to the museum, for which they were never intended—when
they are thus placed in a secular gallery, the original sentiment is lost,
as well as the fitness and meaning of the religio loci. In their original
chapels they had a speaking reference to the tutelar patron or miracle;
but the cheat, of their tinsel colours and clothing, which was concealed
in the solemn semi-gloom, is revealed in the broad daylight, and they
look like monks turned out of their convent into the wide world.
Many of the smaller fioaua are preserved in glass cases, after the
fashion of surgical preparations.
The works of the following sculptors are the best deserving of notice;
they flourished or died about the period affixed to their names, as given
by Cean Bermudez, to whom refer for details :— ~
_..-i
Spain. X. SPANISH PAINTED SCULPTURE. 51
Mateo, El Maestro 1188 Berruguete, Alonso 1545 Juni, Juan de .. . . 1585
Aleman, Juan . . . . 1460 Tordesillas, Gaspar Trezzo, Jacome. . . 1589
Dancart, El Maestro 1495 dc ....... .--- 1545 Jordan, Esteban . . 1590
Florentin, Miguel. 1510 Machuea, Pedro. . . 1545 Leoni, Pompeyo . . 1605
Torrigiano, Pedro. 1520 Xamete.......... 1550 Hernandez, Gre
Bartolomé, El Leoni, Leon. . . . . . 1555 gorio . . . -¢-.-1. 1635
Maestro 1 520 Villal ando, Franco 1561 Pereyra, Manuel. . 1645
Ferment, Damien . 1525 Siloe,€)iego de . . . 1562 Montafies, Juan
Valdelvira, Pedro . 1540 Tudelilla . . . . . . . . 1566 Martinez . . - . . . 1645
Copin, Diego and Morel, Bartolomé . 1566 Cano, Alonso. . . . . 1650
Miguel I540 Becerra, Gaspar . . 1566 Roldan, Pedro. . . . 1650
Borgofia, Felipe de 1543 Ancheta, Miguel de 1 575
I\'o.13.—acc1.asror.oo1ca1. roun.
Seville, S. Madrid, C. Oviedo, R. S.
Cordova, C. Avila, R. Leon, R.
Jaeu, C. Escorial, R. Burgos, R.
Granada, C. Segovia, C. Zaragoza, C.
Madrid, C. Valladolid, R. Huesca. R.
Toledo, C. Salamanca, R. Barcelona, C.
Cuenca, R. Zamora, R. Tarragona, C. S.
Alcala de Henares, R. Santiago, R. Valencia, C. S.
The most remarkable churches and cathedrals will be found in this
route; the other examples worth observation will be pointed out at
their respective localities. As a general rule the student should care
fully examine the metropolitan cathedral of each see, as it will be
usually found to furnish the type of the minor collegiate and parochial
churches within the diocese; and although a general homogeneous style
marks architectural periods throughout the Peninsula, yet architecture,
like dialects and costume, has its localisms and provincialisms, which are
very pronounced in Spain, itself an aggregate of unamalgamating com
ponents.
The stranger may be made acquainted with some of the leading dis
positions and technical terms, as regards the Cathedrals of Spain, which
necessarily form a leading item in the “ what to observe" of intelligent
investigators, and one especial object of this Handbook; the exteriors
are often surrounded with a long platform, or lonja, which, if ascended
to by steps is called a gradus, “ grees ;” the principal front is fre
quently left unfinished, first in order to disarm the evil eye, and next
to serve as a constant pretext for begging pious contributions for its
completion. The western entrance commonly presents the chief facade,
and is called fachada principal; the naves, naves, are supported by
piers, pilones, from whence springs the roof, boveda. The side aisles,
alas, wings, are called Zaterales, co-laterales ; at the doorways is a pila,
stoup, or bénitier, which contains the agua bendita, or holy water, with
which, as the devil cannot abide it, every Spaniard crosses him or herself
on entrance, santiguanse. The quire, coro, is ordinarily placed in the
centre nave, thus blocking it up and concealing the high altar; its back,
which fronts the spectator who enters from the west, is called el
trascoro ; the lateral sides are called Zos respaldos del coro, over which
the organs are usually placed. The quire is lined with stalls, sillas ;
the seats, silleria del coro, are generally carved, and often most beauti
fully, as are the desks of the quin'ster’s books, los atriles, and the
lecterns or facistoles.
Opposite to the coro an open space marks the centre of the transept,
cruce-ro, over which rises the great dome, el cimborio; this space is called
the “entre los dos coros ;” it divides the quire from the high altar ; and is
usually isolated and fenced off by a reja, “ purclose,” or railing ; these
and the cancelli, gratings (whence comes our term chancel), are among
the most remarkable and artistical peculiarities of Spain, and, from
being made of iron, have happily escaped the melting-pot. The pulpits,
pulpitos, ambones, generally two in number, are placed in the angle
outside the chancel : they are fixed N.W.. and S.W., in order that the
Spain. x. rscrmrcsr. cannon reams. 59
preacher may face the congregation, who look towards the high altar,
without his turning his back to it. Ascending usually by steps is the
capilla mayor, el presbiterio, where is the high altar, el altar mayor, on
which is placed a tabernacle, el tabernaculo, or ciborio, under which
the consecrated wafer is placed in a viril, or open “ monstrance,” when
ever it is displayed, or mamfestado. When the wafer is not so ex
hibited, it is enclosed in a sagrario, or tabernacle. In some highly
privileged churches, as at Lugo and Leon, the wafer is continually dis
played for public adoration; in others, only at particular times: but
generally, in great towns, this privilege is conceded to all the churches
by rotation, and continues during 40 hours, Zas cuarenta Imus, which
are duly mentioned in almanacs and newspapers. From the high altar
rises a screen, or reredos, called el retablo ,- these, often most magnificent,
are reared high aloft, and crowned with a “ holy rood,” la Santa Cruz,
which is the representation of Christ on the Cross, with St. John and
the Virgin at his side. The retablos, most elaborately designed, carved,
painted, and gilt, estofaolo, are divided into compartments, either by
niches or intercolumniations; the spaces are filled with paintings-or
sculpture, generally representing the life of the Virgin, or of the Saviour,
or subjects taken from the Bible, or from the local legends and tutelars,
and do the oflice of books to those who can see, but cannot read. The
place of honour is usually assigned to Za Santisima, the most blessed
one, the Virgin, the_ “Queen of Heaven” (Jer. xliv. 17), the real
goddess, the Isis, Astarte and Great Diana of Spain. The Virgin is
represented mostly in the attitude of her Conception, Assumption, or
as bearing the Saviour as either infant or dead—in either case to exalt
her. To her, indeed, most of the cathedrals of Mariolatrous Spain are
dedicated, whilst in every church in the Peninsula she has her Lady
Chapel. .
Few Spaniards at any time, when traversing a cathedral, pass the
high altar without bowing and crossing themselves, since the incarnate
Host is placed thereon : and in order not to offend the weaker brethren,
every considerate Protestant should also manifest an outward respect
for this the Holy of Holies of the natives, and of his Redeemer also.
Sometimes kings, queens, and princes are buried near the high altar,
which is then called a capilla real. The sarcophagus, or bed on which
the figures representing the deceased kneel or lie, is called urna.
Spaniards, in designating the right and left of the altar, generally use
the terms Zado del Evangelio, Zado de la Epistola: the Gospel side, that
is the right of the celebrant looking from the altar; the Epistle side,
that is the left. These are the spots occupied by the minister while
reading those portions of the service. The altar on grand occasions is
decked with superbly embroidered coverlets ;- a complete set is called el
terno. The piers of the nave are then hung with damask or velvet
hangings, colgaduras; the back of the altar is called el trasaltar, and
here in some cathedrals is el trasparente, a huge pile of elaborately
worked marble, which is anything but transparent.
Spanish cathedrals generally have a parish church attached to them,
la parroquia, and many have a royal chapel, mm. capilla real, quite
distinct from the high altar, in which separate services are performed by
a separate establishment of clergy. The chapter-houses should always
60 x. cmmcn PLATE. Sect. I.
bevisited. The sala del cabildo, sala capitular, have frequently an
ante-room, antesala, and both generally contain carvings and pictures.
The sagrarllo is a term used for the additional chapel which is some
times appended to the cathedral, and also for the chamber, el relicario,
where the relics and sacred vessels of silver and gold are or rather were
kept, for their portable and ready money value were too evident to
escape the greedy eye of French invaders and Spanish appropriators;
in reality, to plunder church plate was the paramount object of
almost every Buonapartist Victor, to “ faire bien ses atfaires,” and enrich
themselves by sacrilege, pillage, and peculation. One of the earliest
thoughts of the Duke was how “ to make the French generals zlisgorge
the church plate which they had stolen ” (l)isp., Aug. 23, 1808) : this
he settled by English steel purgatives; indeed, the hope of pillage is
what endeared war to the revolutionary upstarts of France, and to which
they sacrificed every military principle and consideration for the lives of
their men (Disp. Dec. 29, 1810). The crime entailed the punishment;
the impediments of plunder formed a marked feature both at Baylen and
Vittoria, the first and last blows dealt in Spain to the rapacious Eagle.
As specimens of church plate worth notice are the altar candlesticks,
candeleros, blandones; the caliac, or sacramental cup; the porta paw, in
which relics are enclosed, and offered to devout osculation ; the cruces,
crosses ; baculos, croziers; and the vergers’ staves, cetros. The tra
veller should always inquire if there be a custodia, whether of silver,
plata, or of silver gilt, sobredorada. They are called custodias because
in them, on grand festivals, the consecrated Host is kept. The custodia,
containing the wafer, thus guarded, is deposited on Good Friday in the
sepulchre, el monumento. This temporary monument in some cathedrals
—Seville, for instance—is of great architectural splendour.
The Vestry is called la sacristia, and its oficial servant, el sacristan :
here the robes and utensils of the officiating ministers are put away.
These saloons are frequently remarkable for the profusion of mirrors
which are hung, like pictures,‘ all around over the presses: the looking
glasses are slanted forwards, in order that the priest, when arrayed, may
have a full-length view of himself in these clerical Psyches. The dresses
and copes of the clergy are magnificently embroidered, for the Spaniards
excel in this art of working silver and gold, which is Oriental, and in
herited from both Phoenician and Moor.
The painted glass in the windows, Zas vidrieras de las ventanas, is
often most superb, although the Spaniards themselves have produced
Very few artists in this chemical branch, and mostly employed painters
from Flanders and Germany.
The chief rejeros or makers of the exquisite purcloses, railings, are
Francisco de Salamanca, 1533; Christobal Andino, 1540; Francisco
dc Villalpando, 1561 ; Juan Bautista Celma, 1600. Their works are of
the highest merit and interest, and quite unrivalled in Europe; they
flourished in the gold and silver ages of Spain. The most remarkable
plateros or workers in silver are the D’Arphe family, 1500; Juan Ruiz,
el Vandolino, 1533 ; and Alonso Becerril, 1534. Unfortunately the
value of the mere material has tempted the spoiler, and consigned to
the melting pot many a precious remain of ancient piety, art, and
magnificence.
‘Spain. XI. RELIGIOUS FESTIVALS TOUR.-—XII. KINGS. 61
XI.--Rnmcrous Fnsrrvnns Tons.
Religion has long been mixed up most intimately in every public,
private, and social relation of Spain. There a powerful and intelligent
clergy monopolized soul and‘ body, dwarfing both; and secured the
good things of this world to themselves, by promising to others the
blessings of the next one. The priesthood, in order to prevent the
exercise of thought, furnished food for the eye—not mind—and from
the beginning marshalled into their service even popular amusements,
making a holy day and a holiday synonymous. Moralists and philo
sophers may speculate on the changes, whether for better or worse,
wrought by the diminution of these popular amusements and occupa
tions. The masses at least were not driven to the pothouse or politics;
now-a-days, as the cloisters come down in every town, colosseums arise
for the bloody brutalizing bull fight; yet the church ceremonials, on
grand days, although now much shorn of their splendour, should always
be visited, and especially when celebrated in honour of the tutelar saint
or miracle of any particular district : local costumes and manners will
be best studied at the Fiestas y Romerias, the Festivals and Pilgrimages
to some high place or shrine, and at the Veladas, the Wakes or Vigils, the
German Kirchweihe, which in a fine climate are at once attractive and
picturesque. Akin to these scanty relaxations of the peasantry are the
Ferias or fairs, a word which also has a double meaning for the
Spaniards, who, imitating the Moors at Mecca, have always been per
mitted to combine a little trafiic with devotion. These local festivities
are however sadly fallen ofi‘ from their pristine getting up and large
attendance.
The principal local saints, sites of pilgrimage, and leading fairs will
be mentioned in their respective places: travellers curious in these
festivals should endeavour to be at Valencia April 5, at Madrid April 15,
Ronda May 20, and Santiago July 25, and should always remember to
be in some great city during the Holy Week or Semana Santa (Seville
is the best), and during Corpus Christi, a moveable feast which takes
place the first Thursday after Trinity Sunday, and is celebrated every
where in Spain with great pomp, especially at Seville, Granada, Va
lencia, Barcelona, and Toledo. All the infinite holy days that are kept
in honour of the Virgin deserve notice, as do the more gloomy services
connected with the dead on the days of All Saints and All Souls in the
beginning of November. The festivities of Christmas and Carnival time
are more joyous, and very national and peculiar.
XII.—Kmos on Sum.
In the subjoined chronology of the order of succession of the Kings
of Spain, from the Goths, the years of their deaths are given from the
oflicial and recognised lists.
Gothic Kings. s.n. l 4.0. 4.1).
Ataulfo . . . 417 L Enrico . . . 483 Agila. - . . 554
Sigerico . . . 417 Alarico . . - 506 Atauagildo . . 567
Walia . . . 420 | Gesalico . . . 510 Leuva I. . - . 572
Theodoredo . . 451 Amalarico . . 531 Leovigildo O . 586
Turismundo . . 454 Theudio . . - 548 Recaredo I. - . 601
Theodorico . . 467 1 Theudesilo . . 549 Leuva II. - - 603
62 — XIII. CONTEMPORARY SOVEREIGNS. Sect. I.
KINGS or SPAIN-continued.
A.D. AJ). A.D..
WitericoÏ. . 600 Garcia‘ . . 913 Fernando 1V, el
Gundemaro . . 612 Ordoño Il. . . 923 Emplazado . 1312
Sisebuto . . . 621 Fruela II. . . 924 Alonso XI. . . 1350
Recaredo II. . 621 Alonso 1V. el Pedro I. el Cruel 1369
Snintila . . . 631 Monge . . . 930 Henrique II. . . 1379
Sisenanto . . 635 Ramiro II. . . 950 Juan I. . . . 1390
Chintila. . . . 638 Ordoño III. . . 955 Henrique III. . 1407
Tulga . . . 640 Sancho I. . . 967 Juan II. . . . 1454
Chindasuindo . 650 Ramiro Ill. . . 982 Henrique IV. el
Recesvinto . . 672 Bermudo II. . 999 Impotente . . 1474
Wamba . . . 687 Alonso V. . . 1028 Doña Isabel,laCa.
Ervigio . . .
687 Bermudo III. . 1037 tolica . . . 1504 '
Egica . . .
701 Doña Sancha. . 1067 Fernando V. . 1516
Witiza . . .
711 —- Doña Juana . . 1555
Don Rodrigo .
714 Kings of Castíle and Felipe I. . . . 1560
Leon. Carlos V., I. de
Kings of Leon. Fernando I. . . 1067 España . . 1558
Pelayo . . . 737 Sancho II. . . 1073 Felipe II. . . 1598
Favila . . . 739 Alonso VI. . . 1108 Felipe III. . . 1621
Alonso l. el Cato- Doña. Uraca . . 1126 Felipe IV. . . 1665
lico . , . 757 Alonso VII. Em- Carlos II. . . 1700
Fruela I. . . 768 perador . . 1157 Felipe V. abdi
Aurelio . . . 774 Sancho III. . 1158 cated . . 1724
Silo . . . . 783 Alonso VIII. 1214 Luis I. . . 1724
Mauregato . 788 Henrique I. . :l2l7 Felipe V. . :l746
Bermudo I. el Di- Fernando II. 1188 Fernando VI. 1759
acono . . . 795 Alonso IX. . . 1230 Carlos III. . I 1788
Alonso II. el Casto 843 Doña Berenguela 1244 Carlos IV., abdi
Ramiro I. . . 850 San Fernando III. 1252 cated . . . 1808
Ordoño I. . . 862 Alonso X. el Sabio 1284 Fernando VII. . 1833
Alonso III. el Sancho IV. el Isabel II. . .
Magno . . . 910 Bravo . . . 1295
The periods have been selected during which leading events in Spanish
history have occurred.
4.1:. Spain. England. France. Rome.
800 Alonso II. el Casto . Egbert. . Charlemagne Leo III.
877 Alonso III. el Magno Alfred . . Louis II. . John VII.
996 Ramiro III. . . . Ethelred II. Hugh Capet . Gregory V.
1075 Sancho II. . . . {vgggggzggi} Philip I. . . Gregory VII.
XX.—HINTs TO Aurnons.
At the same time, when Spaniards are once satisfied that no harm is in~
tended in sketching, &c., no people can be more civil in ofi"ering assistance
of every kind, especially the lower classes, who gaze at the, to them, magi
cal performance with wonder: the higher classes seldom take any notice,
partly from courtesy and much from the nil aolmirari principle of
Orientals, which conceals both inferiority and ignorance. Let no
author imagine that the fairest account of Spain as she is, setting down
nought in malice, can content a Spaniard; morbidly sensitive and
touchy, as the worst class of Americans, both are afflicted with the _---.Amfg
notion that all the world, who are never troubling their heads about
them, are thinking of nothing else, and joined in one common conspi
racy, based in envy, jealousy, or ignorance: “ you don't understand us,
I guess.” He considers it no proof either of goodness of breeding, heart,
or intellect, to be searching for blemishes rather than excellences, for
toadstools rather than violets, and despises those curmudgeon smell-V
funguses who find all a wilderness from La Mancha to Castile—\vho see‘
motes rather than beams in the brightest eyes of Andalusia. Many
blots exist, indeed, and Spain and Spaniards have much too long been
taken at their own magniloquent and magnificent valuation. How
shortlived this imposing kingdom’s real greatness! begun under Ferdi
nand and Isabella, and waning even under Philip II. How much was
88 xxx. Fomfs srnusu wor.Ks. Sect. I.
owing to accident and externals—to the possession by Charles V. of the
New World, of Italy, the Low Countries, and Germany! How soon,
as these dropped off and Spain was left by herself, did poverty and
weakness, her normal and present condition, return! After years of
systematic national self-puffing, an honest Handbook, we repeat, is
bound like an appraiser, to do his duty to his employer, yet the whole
unpalatable truth, told here in strict confidence, need not be repeated
to the thin-skinned natives, by those who consult and put faith in a
Red Mu1~ray; and assuredly the Peninsula affords room for other and
more pleasant topics, and many and sweet are the flowers to be yet
gathered.
Those kind readers who do the author of this Handbook the honour
of trusting to his lucubrations on the things of Spain, will find several
other matters discussed at more length in his first edition of this
work, 1845, out indeed of print, but ofi which copies occasionally may
be obtained of Mr. Lee, 440, VVest Strand; and also in his
XXI.—Tn1~: BULL-FIGHT.
The hull-fight, say what moralists may, is the sight in Spain, and
to see one certainly forms thefirst object of all the younger portion of
travellers from every nation ; and as not to understand after some sort the
order of the course, the salient features, and the language of the “ ring,”
Spam. xxr. THE BULL-FIGHT. y 89
at the first great town at which they arrive, for unless they are dressed
like the rest of the world, they will everywhere be stared at, and be
pestered by beggars,.who particularly attack strangers.
Black from time immemorial has been the favourite, the national
0010111‘, pehaueapoves mi-rrav-res -ro qrhetov ev u'a'yozs(St1'ab0, iii. 233). This
male sagum is the type of the modern suya or basquiira, the outer petti
coat, feminine, which is always black, and is put over the indoor dress
on going out. The Greeks translated the Tyrian phrase “ Bewitching
of naughtiness” by the term Baa-Kama. Black, the colour of etiquette
and ceremony, is the only one in which women are allowed to enter
churches. Being that of the learned professions, it makes Spaniards seem
wiser, according to Charles V., than they really are; while, from being
the garb of the bereaved, it disarms the evil eye which dogs prosperity,
and inspires, instead of associations of envy, those of pity and respect.
It gives an air of decorum and modesty, and softens an indifferent skin.
Every one in England has been struck with the air of respectability
which mourning confers, even on ladies’ maids. The prevalence of
black veils and dark cloaks on the Alameda and in the church, conveys
to the stranger newly arrived in Spain the idea of a population of nuns
and clergymen. As far as woman is concerned, the dress is so becoming,
that the diificulty is to look ugly in it; hence, in spite of the monotony,
we are pleased with a uniformity which becomes all alike; those who
cannot see its merits should lose no time in consulting their oculist.
The beauty of the Spanish women is much exaggerated, and more
loveliness is to be seen in one fine day in Regent-street than in a year
in Spain. Their charm consists in symmetry of form, grace of manner
and expression, and still more, as in the case of a carp or Raie cu beurre
noir, in the dressing; yet, such is the tyranny of fashion, that many of
its votaries are wil ling to risk the substance for the shadow, and to strive,
instead of remaining inimitable originals, to become second-rate copies.
Faithless to true Espaiiolismo, they sacrifice on the altar of La mode dc
Paris even attraction itself. The Cocos, or cottons of Manchester, are
superseding the Alepines, or bombazeens of Valencia, as the blinkers and
bonnets of the Boulevards are eclipsing the Mantillas.
The Mantilla is the aboriginal female head-gear. Iberia, in the early
coins, those picture-books of antiquity, is represented as a veiled woman ;
the Ka)\v1rrpa p,s)uuvr; was supported by a sort of cock’s-comb, |<opa§, and
the partial concealment of the features was thought even in those days
to be an ornament (Strabo, iii. 164). Thus Poppaa, according to
Tacitus, managed her veil quia sic decebat. The cam tupida or tapada,
or face so enveloped, was always respected in Spain, and even Messalina
shrouded under the mantle of modesty her imperial adulteries. The
Gothic mantum so called, says S‘. Isidoro (Or. xix. 24), quia manus
tegat tantum, was made of a thickish cloth, as it was among the Cartha
ginians (see the Mantilia of Dido, En. iv. 705), whence the Moorish
name Mantil. The Mantilla, an elegant diminutive of the Manta, is
now made of silk or lace; formerly it was substituted by the coarse
petticoat among the lower classes, who, like Sancho Panza’s wife, turned
them over their heads from pure motives of economy. In fact, as in the
East, the head and face of the female were seats of honour, and never to
be exposed ; accordingly, by a decree of Philip IV., a woman’s mantilla
112 xxrv. srxrnsn MANTILLA. Sect. I.
could not be seized for debt, not even in case of the crown. From being
the essential article of female gear, the manto has become a generic
term, and has given its name to our milliners, who are called mantua
makers.
There are three kinds of mantillas, and no lady can properly do without
a complete set: first the white, used on grand occasions, birth-days,
bull-fights, and Easter Mondays, and is composed of fine blonde or lace
embroidery ; yet it is not becoming to Spanish women, whose sallow olive
complexion cannot stand the contrast, so that Adrian compared one thus
dressed to a sausage wrapt up in white paper. The second is black,
made of raso or alcpin, satin or bombazeen, often edged with velvet, and
finished off with deep lace fringe. The third, used on ordinary occa
sions, and by the Fancy, and called Mantilla dc tira, has no lace, but
is made of black silk with a broad band of velvet. This, the veil of the
Maja, the Gitana, peculiarly becomes their eye of diamond and their
locks of jet. The Mantilla used to be suspended on a high comb,
peineta, and then crossed over the bosom, which is, moreover, concealed
by a parizwlo, or handkerchief. These are the “ hoods and ushers” of
Hudibras, and without them, unless the house was on fire, no woman
formerly would go out into the streets, and indeed when thus enveloped
nothing can be more decent than the whole upper woman; mat:-once
procterfaciem nil C61"!t87‘6 posses. The smallest display of the neck, &c.,
or patriotismo, is thought over-liberal and improper, and one of the great
secrets of a Spanish womau’s attraction is, that most of her charms are
hidden.
The Mantilla is kept in its proper place by the fan, abanico, which is
part and parcel of every Spanish woman, whose nice conduct of it leaves
nothing to be desired. No one understands the art and exercise of it, the
mancjo, like her: it is the index of her soul, the telegraph of her chame
lion feelings, her signal to the initiated, which they understand for good
or evil as the wagging of a dog’s tail. She can express with her dumb
fan more than Paganini could with his fiddlestick. A handbook might
be written to explain the code of signals. Remember not to purchase
any of the old Rococo fans which will be offered for sale at Cadiz and
Seville as Spanish, being however all made in France; the prices asked
are exorbitant, for which foolish English collectors may thank them
selves. There are more and better of these fans to be had in \Vard0ur
street than in all Andalucia, and for a quarter of the money.
The Mantilla, properly speaking, ought not to be worn with curls,
rizos, recently introduced by some French perruquiers; these are
utterly unsuited to the melancholy pensive character of the Spanish
female face when in repose, and particularly to her Moorish eyes, which
never passed the Pyrenees; indeed, first-rate amateurs pronounce the
real ojos arabes, like the palm-tree, to be confined to certain localities.
The finest are “ raised ” in Andalucia; they are very full, and repose
-on a liquid somewhat yellow bed, of an almond shape.
The Spanish hair is the glory of the sex; herein, like Samson’s, is
the secret of her strength, for, if Pope be infallible, “ Her beauty draws
us by a single hair ”—Sancho Panza says more than a hundred oxen.
It is very black, thick, and often coarser than a courser’s_' tail, especially
with the lower classes; nourished by copious Zarding, ’and undwarfed
Spam. XXIV. SPANISH cam. 113
by caps, it grows like the “ bush,” and occasionally becomes the well
stocked preserve of caea menor, which afford constant sport and occupa
tion to most picturesque groups Z1 la Murillo.
The hair of the better classes is attended to with the greatest care,
and is simply braided d la Madonna over a high forehead. The Iberian
ladies, reports Strabo (iii. 248), were very proud of the size of this
palace of thought, and carefully picked out the 1rpo|<op.La, the superfluous
items, to increase its dimensions. The Andaluza places a real flower,
generally a rose or a red pink, among her raven locks; the children
continue to let long Carthaginian plaited Trensa hang down their backs.
There are two particular curls which deserve serious attention: they are
circular and flat, and are fastened with white of egg to the side of each
cheek: they are called Patillas or Pieardias, Rogueries—Carac0les de
.-1mor—the French accroches coeur, “ springes to catch woodcocks.”
These are Oriental. Some female mummies have been discovered with
their patillas perfectly preserved and gummed on after 3000 years: the
ruling passion strong in death (Wilk. ii. 370). The Spanish she-Goths
were equally particular. S“. Isidoro (Or. xix. 31) describes some curls,
anciae, with a tact which becomes rather the Barbiere de Seuilla than
its archbishop. When a Andaluca turns out with her hair dressed in
its best, she is capable, like Roxalana, of upsetting empires, trastornar
el mu/ndo. '
Thus much for our fair readers; one word now on the chief item of
male costume in Spain. The cloak, capa, is to man what the saya and
mantilla are to woman. The Spaniards represent the gens togata of
antiquity, and their capa is the unchanged Paenula, Tefiewa. This
emblem of civilization and symbol of Roman influence was introduced
into Spain by Sertorius, who, by persuading the natives to adopt the
dress, soon led them to become the admirers, then subjects, of Rome—
Cedent arma togoe. The Andaluciaiis (Strabo, iii. 254) were among the
first to follow this foreign fashion. They gloried in their finery like the
Germans, not seeing in this livery, as Tacitus did, a real badge of the
loss of national independence-—“ Inde liabitus nostri honor, et frequens
toga, idque apud imperitos, humanitas vocabatur, cum pars cervitutis
esset.” Much the same case is now going on with French bonnets and
English coats; the masses of Spaniards have never left off their cloaks
and jackets. This jacket, the ancient xn-mu, tunica, synthesis, was
worn by the Carthaginians (Plant. Porn. v. 2), just as it is now by the
Moors. The Spaniards live in jackets, they are the “tunicatus pro
pellus ” of Europe. Augustus Caesar, who, according to Suetonius, was
chilly, wore as many as Hamlet’s gravedigger does Waistcoats. Fer
dinand VlI., the week before his death, who gave afarewell audience to
a foreign minister in a jacket, died in harness: like him and Caesar,
Spaniards, when in the bosom of their families, seldom wear any other
dress. O tunicata quies! exclaiins Martial (x. 51); nor can anything
ever exceed the comfort of a well-made Zamarra, a word derived from
Simiir—mustela Scythiea. The merit and obvious origin of this sheep
skin costume account for its antiquity and unchanged usage. S".
Isidoro (Or. xix. 24) calls it pallium, a pelle.
The capa is cut in a peculiar manner and rounded at the bottom ; the
circumference of the real and correct thing is seven yards all but three
114 xxiv. sumsn CLOAK. Sect. I.
inches and a half: “bis ter ulmrum toga. As cloaks, like coats, are
cut according to a man’s cloth, a scanty capo, like the “toga arcta " of
Horace, does not indicate afiluencc or even respectability. S". lsidoro
did well to teach his Goths that their toga was a tegendo, because it
concealed the whole man, as it does now, and well, provided it be a
good one; una buena capa, todo tapa. It covers a multitude of sins,
and especially pride and p0verty—the twin sisters of Iberia. The
ample folds and graceful drapery give breadth and throw an air of
stately decency—nay, dignity--over the wearer; it not only conceals
tatters and nakedness, but appears to us to invest the pauper with the
abstract classicality of an ancient peripatetic philosopher, since we never
see this costume of Solons and Caesars except in the British Museum.
A genuine Spaniard would sooner part with his skin than his capa ;
thus when Charles III. wanted to prohibit their use, the people rose in
arms, and the Squillacci, or anti-cloak ministry, was turned out. The
capa fits a Spaniard admirably ; it favours habits of inactivity, prevents
the over-zealous arms or elbows from doing anything, conceals a knife
and rags, and, when mufiled around, offers a disguise for intrigues and
robbery; capa y espada accordingly became the generic term for the
profligate comedy which portrayed the age of Philip IV.
The Spanish clergy never appear in public without this capa, and
the readers of the Odyssey need not be reminded of the shifts to which
Ulysses was put when “ he left his cloak behind.” St. Paul was
equally anxious about his, when he wrote his Second Epistle to
Timothy; and Raphael has justly painted him in the cartoon, when
preaching at Athens, wearing his cloak exactly as the Spanish people
do at this moment. Nothing can appear more ludicrous to a Spanish
eye than the scanty, narrow, capeless, scapegrace cloaks of English cut:
the wearer of one will often see the lower classes grinning, without
knowing why. They are staring at his cloak, its shape, and way of
putting it on. When a stranger thinks that he is perfectly incognito,
he is pointed out to the very children, and is the observed of all
observers. All this is easily prevented by attention to a few simple
rules. N0 one can conceive the fret and petty continual worry to
which a stranger is exposed both from beggars and the impertinente
curioso tribe by being always found out; it embitters every step he
takes, mars all privacy, and keeps up a continual petty fever and ill
humour.
A wise man will therefore get his cloak made in Spain, and by a
Spanish tailor, and the more like that most generally worn the better.
He may choose it of blue colour, and let the broad hem or stripe be
lined with black velvet; red or fancy colours and silks are muy charm,
gaudy and in bad taste : he must never mnit a cape——dengue esclavina,
whence our old term sclaveyn. A capa without a cape is like a cat
without a tail. As the clerical capa is always black, and distinguished
from the lay one by its not having a cape. Whenever an Englishman
comes out with a blue cloak and no cape, it appears quite as ludicrous
to Spanish eyes as to see a gentleman in a sack or in a red cassock. It
is applying a form of cut peculiar only to clergymen to colours which
are only worn by laymen. Having got a correct caps, the next and
not less important step is to know how to wear it; the antique is the
Spain. xxrv. now TO PUT 1r cs. 115
true model ; either the capa is allowed to hang simply down from the
shoulders, or it is folded in the embozo, or 6 lo majo: the embozar con
sists in taking up the right front fold and throwing it over the left
shoulder, thus mufliing up the mouth, while the end of the fold hangs
half way down the back behind: it is diflicult to do this neatly,
although all Spaniards can ; for they have been practising nothing else
from the age of breeches, as they assume the toga almost when they
leave off petticoats. No force is required; it is done by a knack, n
sleight of hand : the cloak is jerked over the shoulder, which is gently
raised to meet and catch it; this is the precise form of the ancients,
the an/aBa)\7\ea-Gar of Athenaeus (i. 18). The Goths wore it in the same
manner (S'1- lsidoro, Or. xix. 24). ‘ When the embozo is arranged, two
fingers of the right hand are sometimes brought up to the mouth and
protrude beyond the fold : they serve either to hold a cigar or to tele
graph a passing friend. It must be remembered by foreigners that, as
among the ancient Romans (Suet. in Olaud, vi.), it is not considered
respectful to remain embozado on ceremonious occasions. Uncloaking is
equivalent to taking off the hat; Spaniards always uncloak when Sn
Jllajestad, the host or the king, passes by, the lower orders uncloak
when speaking to a superior : whenever the traveller sees one not do that
with him, let him be on his guard. Spaniards, when attending a funeral
service in a church, do not rend, but leave their cloaks at home behind
them : the etiquette of mourning is to go without their capa. As this
renders them more miserable than fish out of water, the manes of the
deceased must necessarily be gratified by the sincerity of the sorrow of
his surviving and shivering friend. -
The rnajo fashion of the wearing the cloak, is that which is adopted
by the chulos when they walk in procession around the arena, before
the bull-fight commences. It is managed thus: take the right front
fold, and whip it rapidly under the left elbow, pressing down at the‘
same time the left elbow to catch it; a sort of deep bosom, the ancient
umbo, sinus, is thus formed, and the arms are left at liberty. The
celebrated Aristides at Naples is cloaked somewhat in this fashion. l'Ve
strongly advise the newly arrived traveller to get his tailor or some
Spaniard just to give him a few lessons how to perform these various
evolutions; without this he will never pass in a crowd. If he puts
his cloak on awkwardly he will he thought a quiz, which is no element
of success in society. Everybody knows that Cicero adopted the cause
of Pompey in preference to that of Caesar-because he concluded, from
the unintellectual manner in which the future dictator wore his cloak,
that he never could turn out to be a great man. Caesar improved as
he grew older, when nothing fidgeted him more than any person’s dis
turbing the peace of his sinus (Suet. 82, and see the note of Pitiscus) ;
and, like the Egyptian ladies’ curls, the ruling passion was strong in
his death, for he arranged his cloak as his last will and deed. Cato
and Virgil were laughed at for their awkward togas; no Englishman
can pass for a great man in Spain, unless his Spanish valet thinks so
when he is cloaked.
The better classes of Spaniards wear the better classes of cloth. The
lower continue to cover their aboriginal sheepskin with the aboriginal
cloth. The fine wools of Spain—an ancient Merino sold in Strabo’s.
116 xxrv. srxmsn CLOTH. Sect. I.
time for a talent (iii. 213)—produced a corresponding article, insomuch
that these Hispanoe coccime were the presents which the extravagant
Chloe gave her lover (Mart. iv. 27). The poor were contented then,
as now, with a thick double cloth, the “ duplex parmus” of poverty
and patience (Hor. 1 Ep. xvii. 25), and it was always made from the
brown undyed wool; and there are always several black sheep in every
Spanish flock, as in all their cortes and juntas. Their undyed wools
formed the exact Lacernoe Bwticae (Martial, xiv. 133), and the best are
still made at Grazalema. The cloth, from the brown colour, is called
“ pwiio pardo.” This is the mixed red rusty tint for which Spain was
renowned—-“ ferrugine clarus Ilwerzi ,-” among the Goths the colour was
simply called “ Spanish,” just as our word drab, incorrectly used as a
colour, was originally taken from the French drap, cloth, which hap
pened to be undyed. Drab is not more the livery of our footmen and
Quakers, than “ brown ” is of Spain, whether man or mountain-gente
or Sierra Morena. The. Manchegans especially wear nothing but
jackets and breeches of this stufi” and colour, and well may their king
call his royal seat “ el pardo.” Their metaphors are tinctured with it.
'1‘hey call themselves the “ browns,” just as we call the Africans the
blacks, or modern Minervas the blues : thus they will say of a shrewd
peasant,-Yorkshire—“ Mas sabe con su grammatica parda que no el
escribano ;” he knows more with his brown grammar than the attorney.
The pario pardo is very thick, not only to last longer, but because the
cloak is the shield and buckler of quarrelsorne people, who wrap it
round the left arm. The assassins of Caesar did the same, when they
rushed with their bloody daggers through frightened Rome (App. B. U.
ii. 503). Caesar himself, when in danger at the battle of Lerida, did
the same thing (Bell. Oiv. i. 67). The Spaniards in the streets, the
moment the sharp click of the opened knife is heard, or their adversary
stoops to pick up a stone, whisk their cloaks round their left arms with
marvellous and most classical rapidity. Petronius Arbiter (c. 30) de
scribes them to the life—“ Intorto circum brachium pallio composui ad
prmliandum grarlum." There is no end to Spanish proverbs on the
cloak. They wear it in summer because it keeps out heat ; in winter
because it keeps out cold. For sol que haga, ne dejes ta capa en casa-—
the common trick upon a traveller is to steal his cloak. Del Armlaluz
guarola tu capuz. A cloak is equivalent to independence, olebajo mi
manta, veo y canto, I laugh in my sleeve; and, even if torn and tat
tered, it preserves its virtue like that of San Martin ; olebajo de una ca;/a
rota, hay bum bebz'dor—there is many a good drinker under a bundle
of rags.
The Spaniards as a people are remarkably well dressed; the lower
orders retain their peculiar and picturesque costume; the better classes
imitate the dress of an English gentleman, and come nearer to our ideas
of that character than do most other foreigners. Their sedate lofty port
gives that repose and quiet which is wanting to our mercurial neigh
bours. The Spaniard is proud of himself, not vain of his coat; he is
cleanly in his person and consistent in his apparel ; there is less of the
“ diamond pins in dirty shirts,” as Walter Scott said of some conti
nental exquisites. Not that the genus dandy, the Pollo, does not exist
in Spain, but he is an exotic when clad in a coat. The real dandy is
Spain. XXIV. SPANISH LOVE or DRESS. 117
the “ majo,” in his half-Moorish jacket. The elegant, in a long-tailed
“fraje,” is a bad copy of a bad imitation—-a London cockney, filtered
through a Boulevard badaud. These harmless animals, these exquisite
vegetables, are called Zechuginos, which signifies both a sucking pig and
a small lettuce. The Andalucian dandies were in the war called 1
aquetes, because they used to import the last and correct thing from
England by the packct~boat. Such are the changes, the ups and
downs, of coats and countries. Now the Spaniards look to us for
models, while our ancestors thought nothing came up
“ To the refined traveller from Spain,
A man in all the world‘s new fashions planted!”
XXV.—HIu'rs on CONDUC'1‘—DRESS——CREED—-VISITING—MODES or
Anonrzss, &c.
In conclusion and recapitulation, a few hints may be useful to the
stranger in Spain as to conduct. The observance of a few rules in a
country where “ manners maketh man ” will render the traveller’s
path one of peace and pleasantness. First and foremost, never forget
that the Spaniard is of a very high caste, and a gentleman by innate
aristocracy; proud as Lucifer and combustible as his matches, he is
punctilious and touchy on the point of honour; make therefore the
first advances, or at least meet him a little more than half way ; treat
him, be his class what it may, as a Caballero, a gentleman, and an old
and well-born Christian one, Cristiano viejo y rancio, and therefore as
your equal. When his self-esteem and personal sensitiveness are thus
once conciliated, he is quick to return the compliment, and to pay
every deference to the judicious stranger by whom he is put in his
proper place ; all attempt to bully and browbeat is loss of time, as this
stiff-necked, obstinate people may be turned by the straw of courtesy,
but are not to be driven by a. rod of iron, still less if wielded by a
foreigner, to despise whom is the essense of nationality or Espaitolismo.
It need scarcely be said, in a land so imbued with Orientalisms, that
the greatest respect is to be paid to the fair sex for its own sake, what
ever be woman’s age, condition, or appearance—nor will love‘s labour be
lost. On landing at Calais, the sooner Mayfair is wiped out of the tablets
of memory the better, nor can any one, once in Spain, too constantly
remember to forget England. How few there, or indeed any where on
the Continent, sympathise with our wants and habits, or understand our
love of truth and cold water; our simple manly tastes; our contempt
for outward show compared to real comfort; our love of exercise,
adventure, and alternate quiet, and of all that can only be learnt at our
public schools. Your foreigner has no Winchester or Eton.
Civil words and keeping out of miscl1ief’s way are everywhere the
best defence. Never grudge wearing out a hat or two by touching it or
taking it off ; this is hoisting the signal of truce, peace, and good will ;
the sensitive Spaniard stilfens when hats are not off, and bristles up like
-a porcupine against the suspicion of a desaire. Be especially polite to
oflicials, from the odious custom-house upwards; it is no use kicking
against the powers that be; if you ruffle them they can worry you,
by a relentless doing their duty: these nuisances are better palliated
by honey than vinegar; and many of the detentions and difiiculties of
our unwise travellers are provoked by uncourteons demeanor, and
growlings in a tongue as unknown to the natives as the Englishman
was to Portia—“ He understands not me, nor I him.” Dismiss the
nonsense of robbers from your head, avoiding, however, all indiscreet
exhibition of tempting baits, or chattering about your plans and
movements. By common preparation mere footpads are baffled: to
attempt resistance against an organised band is sheer folly: do not
Spain. xxv. nmrs on cosrumn. " 119
mix yourself with Spanish politics or civil wars — leave them to
exterminate each other to their liking, like Kilkenny cats. Avoid
logomachies, or trying to convince the natives against their will; it is .
arguing against a north-east wind, and a sheer loss of time, too; for,
in a fine, indolent climate, where there is little to do——no liberty of
press or circulating libraries—the otiose twaddlers spin Castilian non
sense by the yard. Mind your own business, and avoid things that do
not concern you, taking especial care not to intermeddle.
In the large towns the costume of an English gentleman is the best ;
avoid all semi-bandit, fancy-ball extravagances in dress ; hoist, indeed,
British colours there as everywhere. Thin cashmere or cubica is far
preferable to cloth, which is intolerable in the hot weather. Pay daily
visits to Figaro, and carefully eschew the Brutus beards, and generally,
everything which might lead the bulk of Spaniards to do you the
grievous injury of mistaking your native country. A capa or cloak
used to be absolutely essential, and is so out of Madrid, paletots not
withstanding: and how much in appearance and in health have those
Spaniards lost, who, like the Turks, ape the externals of foreign
civilization; how skimpy and pigmy and common-place they look
stripped of their ample folds: let your cloak be of plain blue colour,
faced with black velvet. Remember to get it made in Spain, or it will
not be cut full enough to be able to be worn as the natives do: take
particular care that it has a cape, dengue, esclavina, unless you wish to
be an object of universal attention and ridicule; and mind to let your
tailor give you a few lessons how to put it on like a Spaniard, and to
show you the different modes of mufiling up the face, a precaution
necessary in the Castiles, where the cold airs, if inhaled, bring on
sudden and dangerous pulmonia. This artificial respirator keeps out
both the assassin breath of cold, and the salitrose dust. No English
made capa can be properly embozada, that is, have its right fold thrown
over the mouth and left shoulder, descending neatly half-way down
the back. Our cloaks are much too scanty, no tienen bastante vuelo.
In the conduct of cloaks, remember, when you meet any one, being
yourself embozado or mufiied up, to remove the folds before you address
him, as not to do so is a great incivility : again, when strangers con
tinue to speak to you thus cloaked, and as it were disguised, be on your
g uard.
Take great care, when actually travelling, to get the passport
refrendado y corriente in time, and to secure long beforehand places in
the public conveyance. Carry the least possible luggage you can,
never forgetting that none is so heavy and useless in Spain as precon
ceived prejudices and conventional foregone conclusions, although of
genuine London or Paris manufacture. When you arrive at the place
of your destination, if you wish to do or see anything out of the
common way, call on the jefe politico, or comandante de armas, or chief
authority, to state frankly your object, and request his permission.
For travelling, especially on riding tours and in all out-of-the-way
districts, adopt the national costume of the road; to wit, the peaked
hat, Sombrero gacho, calaiies, the jacket of fur, the Zamawa, or the
one of cloth, the Marselles; the grand object is to pass incog. in the
crowd, or if noticed, to be taken for a native. You will thus avoid
120 xxv. nnvrs ox CHURCH MATTERS. Sect. I.
being the observed of all observers, and a thousand other petty annoy
ances which destroy privacy and ruffle temper. You may possibly
thus escape the beggars, which are the plague of Spain, and have a
knack of finding out a stranger, and of worrying and bleeding him
as effectually as the mosquitos. The regular form of uncharitable
rejection is as follows :—Perdone V. (Usted) por Dias, Hermann ?—
My brother, will you excuse me, for God’s sake? If this request be
gravely said, the mendicant gives up hope of coppers. Any other
answer except this specific one, only encourages importunity, as the
beggars either do not believe in the reality of the refusal, or see at
once that you are not a Spaniard, and therefore never leave off, until in
despair you give them hush-money to silence their whine, thus bribing
them to relieve you from the pleasure of their company.
Ladies will do well to adopt the national and most becoming mom
tilla, although in large towns the hideous bonnet is creeping in. They
must also remember that females are not admitted into churches except
in veils; black also used to be the correct colour for dress. Spanish
women generally seat themselves on the pavement when at prayers;
it is against all ecclesiastical propriety for a lady and gentleman, even
man and wife, to walk about arm in arm in a church. Spaniards, on
passing the high altar, always bow; beware of talking during mass,
when the ringing of a little bell indicates the elevation of the Host, and
the actual presence of the incarnate Deity. It is usual totake off hats
and kneel when the consecrated wafer is carried by in the streets; and
those Protestants who object, should get out of the way, and not offend the
weaker brethren by a rude contempt of their most impressive ceremonial.
Protestants should observe some reserve in questions of creed,
and never play tricks with the faith or the eye; con el qio y la fe,
nunca me burlare. There is no sort of religious toleration in Spain,
where their belief is called la Fe, and is thought to be the faith, and
the only true one. You may smile, as Spaniards do, at a corpulent
canon, and criticise what he practises, but take care to respect what he
preaches. You will often be asked if you are a Christian, meaning a
Roman Catholic; the best answer is, Cristiano, st‘, Romano Oatolico,
no. Distributors of Protestant tracts will labour in vain, and find that
to try to convert a Spaniard is but waste of time. The influence of
the Voltaire school with the propagandism of revolution and atheism,
has sapped much, both of the loyalty and religion, of the old
Castilian ; but however the cause of the Vatican may be injured, that
of Protestantism is little advanced: for there is no via media, no Bible
in Spain ; Deism and infidelity are the only alternatives, and they are
on the increase. The English are thought to have no faith at all,—to
believe neither in the Pope or Mahomet, but in gold and cotton alone ;
nor is this to be wondered at in Spain, where they have no ostensible
religion; no churches or churchyards; no Sundays or service, except
as a rare chance at a seaport in some consul’s parlour. Being rich,
however, and strong, they escape the contumely poured out in Spain on
poor and weak heretics, and their cash is respected as eminently catholic.
Conform, as nearly as you can, to the hours and habits of the natives,
get up early, which is usual throughout Spain ; dine or rest in the middle
of the day, for when everybody is either at table or the siesta, it is no use
Spain. xxv. nmrs on connucr. 121
to be running about sight-seeing when you are the only person awake.
On all occasions pay with both hands; most locks in Spain are to be
picked with a silver key, and almost every difliculty is smoothed by a
properly administered bribe, and how small an additional per centage on
the general expenditure of a tour through Spain is added by such trifling
outlays ! Never therefore, cross the Pyrenees to wage a guerrilla warfare
~ ' about shillings and half-crowns. N.B. Have always plenty of small sil
‘Q? ver coins, for which great is the amount of peace, good will, and having
'. J your own way, to be purchased in Spain,where baclcshish, as in the East, is
’ Z» the universal infallible “ open sesamé” and most unanswerable argument.
' ‘ A Spanish proverb judiciously introduced always gives pleasure, nor
need you ever fear offering your cigar case, petaca, to any Spaniard,
still less if your tobacco be of the legitimate Havana; for next to
pesetas, rank cigars, as popular instruments of waxing in the favour of
lberian man, and making him your obedient servant.
When on a riding journey, attend to the provend; take a mosquitero
or musquito net, and some solution of ammomla, the best antidote to
their stings; avoid all resistance to robbers when overmatched; keep
your plans and movements secret; never rub your eyes except with
your elbows, los ojos con los codos, but use hot water to them frequently,
or a lotion of calomel and rose-water; never exercise them in prying
about barracks, arsenals, and citadels, and still less in sketching any
thing connected with military and national defences, which are after all
generally but beggarly shows of empty boxes.
Letters of Introduction are desirable. In cities, where a lengthened
stay is contemplated, their utility is obvious. They may be procured
and taken on tours and excursions, but need not always be presented.
Of service in cases of difficulties, they involve otherwise much loss of
precious time in visits and in formal intercourse with strangers, whom
one never saw before and may never meet again; and for your life avoid
being carried off from the posada to a hospitable native’s house, if
freedom and taking “ ease in mine own inn ” have any charms.
In choice of lodgings, especially in winter, secure upper floors which
have a southern aspect. The sun is the fire-place of Spain, and where
his vivifying rays enter, the doctor goes out; and, dear reader, if you
value your life, avoid the sangrados of Spain, who wield the shears of
the fatal sisters. Fly also from the lrrasero, the pan of heated charcoal,
the parent of headache and asphixia; trust rather to additional clothing
than to charcoal, especially to flannel ; keep your feet warm and the head
cool, by avoiding exposure to midday sun and midnight bottle : above all
things, carry not the gastronomics of the cold north into the hot south.
Live as the natives do, consuming little meat and less wine; sleep the
midday siesta as they do, and avoid rash exposure to the delicious cool
night breezes. Sleep high, avoiding the ground floor, as the poisonous
Malarias of fine climates creep on earth, and more so by night when they
are condensed, than by day; throw physic to the dogs, avoiding con
stipation and trusting to diet and quiet; a blue or a rhubarb dinner pill
generally will suffice. Cod liver oil may as well be taken out by
consumptive travellers, as it is dear, indiiferent, and rare in Spain.
Next to the Spanish bandit and doctors, with whom your purse or
life are in danger, avoid investments in Spanish insecurities. Nothing
Spain.—I. (I
\
122 xxv. VISITING FORMS. Sect. I.
a “ shop-keeper nation ” justly dislikes more than a fraudulent bank
rupt or a stock exchange repudiator : it is safer to buy our Three per
Cent Reduced at 100, than Spanish Five per Cents. at 35.
When you have letters of introduction to any Spaniards, both ladies
and gentlemen should be vefiy particular in being well dressed on the
first visit of etiquette: blac is the correct colour of ceremon . Call
yourself with your credentials. Ladies should come in a carfiage, as
venido en cocke is a mark of respect. If the parties called upon be out,
leave your credentials and card, writing on the corner of the latter E. P.,
which means en persona. When you ring at the door, probably an
unseen person will exclaim, “ Quien es ?” “Who’s there?” The
correct countersign is, “ Gente de paz,” “ Persons of peace.” As the
first visit is always formal, observe how you are treated, and practise
the same behaviour exactly when the call is returned. You will be
conducted to the best room, the sala de estrado, and then led up to the
sofa, and placed on the right hand. Very great care will be paid, or in
our time used to be paid, to your hat—type of grandeeship—which a
well-bred Spaniard seizes and seats on a chair as if it were a person : be
careful to pay this compliment always to your visiting friend’s beaver.
\Vhen you get up to take leave, if of alady, you should say, “ A los pies
ole _V. (usted), Se1'1.ora,” “ My lady, I place myself at your feet;” to
which she will reply, “ Beso 6 V. la mane, Caballero,” “ I kiss your
' hand, Sir Knight:” “ Vaya V. con Dios, que V. lo pase bien,” “May
you depart with God, and continue well ;” to which you must reply,
“ Queole V. can Dios y la. V1.'rgen,” “ May you remain with God and the
Virgin.” Ladies seldom rise in Spain to receive male visitors; they
welcome female ones with kisses both at coming and going. A gentleman
must beware how he offers to shake a Spanish lady’s hand, as it is never
done, except when the hand is offered for better or worse ; it disarranges
her mantilla ; nor should he give her his arm when out walking. On
leaving a Spaniard’s house, observe if he tbiis addresses you, “ Esta casa
estd may Zr la disposicfon de V. cuando guste f<worecerZa.,” “ This house is
entirely at your disposal, whenever you please to favour it.” Once thus
invited, you become a friend of the family, uno de 'n0s0t1‘08, de Zafwmilia.
If the compliment be omitted, it is clear that the owner never wishes to
see you again, and is equivalent to an affront. Vi/hen a lady makes a
visit, a well-bred host hands her down stairs to the door of her carriage,
taking her by the hand ; but properly no pressure is admissible, although
such things have occurred. Remember always to pay a visit of cere
mony to your male and female friends on their birthdays, or el dia de
su santo, and to attend to your costume and put on your best black : on
New Year’s day bring some small gift with you, as an estreiia. If,
when you call, are admitted, and a Spanish lady happens to be alone,
you should not shut the door, as according to the laws of all social pro
priety it must be left open, or at least ajar. In walking with a Spaniard,
if you wish to show him respect, take care to let him be inside of the
two, tu comes exterior: the same nicety of relative position should be
observed in seating him on a sofa or in a carriage. A well-bred man
always when he meets a lady makes way for her, passing outside;
although the strict rule in street-walking, which, from their narrowness
and the nice point of honour of touchy passengers, has been well defined,
Spain. xxv. roams or couarnsr. 123
is that whoever has the wall on his or her right hand is entitled to
kee it.
021 passing soldiers on duty, remember that the challenge of a Spanish
sentry is “ Quien vice ?” The answer is “ Espafia.” Then follows
“ Que gente ?” The answer is “ Paisano.” The sooner and clearer
strangers answer the better, as silence rouses suspicion; and in Spain a
shot often precedes any explanation.
VVhen you meet your Spanish friends, stop, uncloa.k, uncover, and
attend carefully to the whole process of greetings in the market-place.
These things are not done there in our curt and off-hand How are
you ? way. You must inquire after the gentleman’s -own health, that of
his wife (coma esté mi Seirora la esposa ole V.), his children, et cetera,
and then you will be thought to be a hombre tom formal y cumplido
como nosotros, that is, as well-bred as a Spaniard. If when walking
with a Spaniard you pass your own house, do not fail to ask him whether
he will not step in and untire himself a little, “ No quiere V. entrar en
esta su casa, y descansarse un ratito ?” You beg him to come into his,
not your house, for thus you offer it to him.
This offering obtains throughout. If a Spaniard admire anything
belonging to another, his friend instantly places it at his disposal, esté
may ci la disposicion ale V. The proper reply is a bow, and some sort
of speech like this: Gracias, estri may bien empleado, or Gracias, no
puede mejorarse de duerlo. Thanks, it is already in excellent hands;
it cannot better its master by any change. In like manner, and espe
cially when outside cities, if any Spaniards pass by when you are lunch
ing, picnicking, or eating, never fail to invite them to share your meal,
by saying, Gusten ustedes comer? will your graces be pleased to dine P
'.l‘o omit this invitation is a flagrant breach of the laws of hospitality;
nor is it always a mere compliment on their part, for every class of
Spaniard is flattered if you will partake of their fare. However, it is safer
to decline with the set speech, Muchas gracias, buenpro/uecho le haga 6
ustedes. Never at all events, in this or on other occasions, omit these
titular compliments. Phrases and forms of address are exponents of
national character, and how superb is the pomp and circumstance of
these swelling semi-Orientals; here every beggar addresses a brother
mendicant as Sailor, Don, and Caballero, as a lord or knight. As all
are peers, all are “ Vuestra Merced,” “ Your Grace,” which, when not
expressed in words, is understood and implied by the very grammar, as
the mode of addressing in the third person, instead of in our curt second
“ you,” has reference to an implied title. In towns there is scarcely
any dinner society, and luckily; nor is such an invitation the usual
compliment paid to a. stranger, as with us. Spaniard s, however, although
_vi.€_ _
they seldom bid a foreigner, will accept his bidding. It is necessary,
however, to “press them greatly ;” for the correct national custom is to
decline. Remember also to apply a gentle violence to your guest, to
induce him to eat, and if you are dining with him, let your stomach
stretch a point; for unless you over-eat yourself, he will fancy that
you do not like his fare. He will assuredly heap up your mess most
profusely, for, as in the East, where dinners are scarce, quantity is the
delicate mark of attention. It was in our time by no means unusual
for strangers, after eating ices or taking coffee at a public café, to find,
when they went to pay, that the bill had already been discgharged by
G
124 ' xxv. Moors or ADDRESS. Sect I.
some unknown Spaniard. Accordingly, if you see friends of yours thus
refreshing themselves, pretty ladies for instance with whom you wish
to stand well, you may privately tell the waiter that you will be
answerable for their account. It is very easy afterwards, when you
meet with your fair friends, to let them infer who was their unknown‘
benefactor. It was sometimes rather dangerous to accompany an ex
travagant Andaluza out shopping, (1 las tiendas, as a well-bred man of
the old Spanish school was bound never to allow her to pay for anything.
This custom, however, has got somewhat obsolete since the French
invasion, good money and manners having become considerably scarcer
in consequence of that visitation.
All Spaniards, however, are still prodigal to each other in cheap
names and titles of honour; thus even beggars address each other as
Seiior y Caballero, Lord and Knight. The most coveted style is Excel
lencia, your Excellency, or, as it is pronounced, Vziesencia, and it only
belongs to grandees and men in highest oifice. The next is Vuestra
Seitoria, your Lordship, of which the abbreviated form is Usia; this
belongs to titulos ole Castilla, to men who are titled, but not grandees.
It is, however, very seldom used, except by the lower classes, who,
when they want to toady an Englishman, will often say, Por viola del
demonio mas sabe Usia que nosotros-—-by the devil’s life, your Lordship
knows more than we do ; which, if a traveller has this Handbook, is '
very likely to be the fact, asthe natives generally know nothing. The
common form of You is Usted ; vuestra merced, your grace. It is
generally written simply V., or in older books Vmd- If you do not
know a Spaniard’s Christian name, it is well-bred to insert the de, the
German Von. Thus Seiior ole Mufioz is the appellation of a gentleman;
Senor Mufioz that of a nobody. When the Christian name is used
with the title Don (Dominus, Lord), this Don becomes exactly equi
valent to our knightly Sir, and never must be prefixed to the patro~
nymic by itself. Thus you must say Don Hernando Mufioz, and not
Don Mufioz, which sounds as ridiculous and ignorant to Spanish ears
as Sir Peel does to ours.
Spaniards, when intimate, generally call each other by their Christian
names, and a stranger may live among them and be known to all the
town as “ Don Ricardo,” without half a dozen persons in it being aware
of what his patronymic is. The custom of tutear—the endearing
tutoyer, unusual in England except among quakers, is very prevalent
among familiar friends, and is habitual among grandees, who consider
each other as relatives, primes, cousins.
The forms of letter-writing differ also from ours. The correct place
of dating from should be de esta su casa, from this your house, wherever
it is; you must not say from this my house, as you mean to place it at
the disposition of your correspondent; the formal Sir is Mug Seiior
mio ; My dear Sir, is Mug Seiim" mio y de todo mi aprecio; My dear
Friend, is Mi apreciable amigo: a step more in intimacy is querido
amigo and querido Don Juan. All letters conclude after something in
this fashion—que<l0mdo en el interin S. S. S. [su seguro servidor]
Q. S. M. B. [que su mano besa]. This represents our “ your most
obedient and humble servant ;” a more friendly form is “ Manda Vmd.
con toda franqueza d ese S. S. S. y amigo af"W- Q. S. M. B.” When
a lady is in the case, P [pies] is substituted for M, as the gentleman
Spain. xxv. MODES or ADDRESS, ETC. 125
kisses her feet. Ladies sign su sermldora y amiga; clergyrnen, su S. S.
y capellan ,' military men seldom omit their rank. Letters are gene
rally directed thus :—
‘ Al Sefior,
Don Fulano Apodo -_,
B. L. M.
S. S.
R. F.
Most Spaniards append ‘to their signature a Ru-brica, which is a. sort
of intricate flourish, like a Runic knot or an Oriental sign-manual.
The sovereign often only rubricates, as Don Quixote did in the matter
of the jackasses : then his majesty makes his mark, and does not sign
his name.
The traveller is advised at least to visit and observe the objects
pointed out in the following pages, and never to be deterred by any
Spaniard’s opinion that they are “ not worth seeing.” He should not,
however, neglect looking at what the natives consider to be worth a
foreigner’s attention. As a sight-seeing rule in towns, make out a list
of the lions you wish to see, and let your lacquey de place arrange the
order of the course, according to localities, proper hours, and getting pro
per permissions. As a general habit ascend towers in towns to under
stand topography; visit the Plazas and chief markets to notice local fishes,
fowls, fruits, and c0sturnes—-these are busy sites and scenes in this
idle, unbusiness-like land ; for as Spaniards live from hand to mouth,
everybody goes there every day to buy their daily bread, &c., and
when nightfall comes the royal larder is as empty as that of the poorest
venta--and then, as elsewhere, be more careful of keeping your good
temper than sixpences: never measure Spanish things» by an English _.? _. *_ ~
standard, nor seek for motes in bright eyes, nor say that all is a
wilderness from Burgos to Bailen. Scout all imaginary dismals, dangers,
and difiiculties, which become as nothing when manfully met, and
especially when on the road and in ventas. View Spain and the Spaniard
en couleur ole rose, and it will go hard if some of that agreeable tint be
not reflected on such a judicious observer, for, like a mirror, he returns
your smile or frown, your courtesy or contumely ; nor is it of any use
going to Rome if you quarrel with the Pope. Strain a point or two
therefore, to “ make things pleasant.” Little, indeed, shortfof fulsome
flattery, willfully satisfy the cormorant cravings of Spanish self-love
and praise appetite; nay, facts and truths, when told, and still more,
when printed, by a foreigner, are set down as sheer lies, libels, or ab
surdities—merztz'ras y disperates ; and are attributed to the ignorance and
jealousy of the rest of mankind, all conspired to denigrate “ Spain, the
first and foremost of nations.” Remember, also, that “ to boast of
their strength is the national weakness ;” and the Spaniards, in their
decrepitude, talk and swagger as if Charles V. still wielded their sceptre,
and as if their country—blotted from the map of Europe—were the
terror, the envy,and admiration of the whole world : whatever, therefore,
we may think and know to the contrary, it is generally the most pru
dent and polite to smile and pass silently on, like Milton, con volto
schiolto e pensieri stretti. Con qué, buen viaje!
—- " Si quid novlsti rectius lstls
Candidus imperti, si non —his utere mecum.'
( 126 ) Sect. II.
SECTION II.
ANDALUCIA.
3;.e_
CONTENTS.-—INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION.
-Q;-i
ANDALUCIA.
THE kingdom or province of Andalusia, in facility of access and objects of
interest, must take precedence over all others in Spain. It is the Tarshish of
the Bible, the “uttermost parts of the earth,” to which Jonah wished to flee.
This “ultima terree” was called Tartessus in the uncertain geography of the
ancients, who were purposely kept mystified by the jealous Phoenician merchant
princes, who had no notions of free trade. This vague general name, Tarshish,
like our Indies, was applied sometimes to a town, to a river, to a locality ; but
when the Romans, after the fall of Carthage, obtained an undisputed possession
of the Peninsula, the S. of Spain was called Bsetica, from the river Baetis, the
Guadalquivir, which intersects its fairest portions. At the Gothic invasion this
province, and part of Barbary, was overrun by the Vandals, whence some assert
that both sides of the straits were called by the Moors Vandalucia, or Bel¢id
al-Andalosh, the territory of the Vandal; but in the word Andalosh, the land
of the West (Hesperia), a sounder etymology may be found. Here, at all
1
..
I Ii‘: i-"2. I '4\‘1.
events, at the fall of the Gothic rule, as in a congenial soil, the Oriental took’
once more the deepest root, and left the noblest traces of power, taste, and
intelligence, which centuries of apathy and neglect have not entirely efi'aoed—
here he made his last desperate struggle.
The Moorish divisions into Los Cuatro Reinos, the “Four Kingdoms,”
viz. Seville, Cordova, Jaen, and Granada, still designate territorial divisions,
which occupy the S. extremity of Spain; they are defended from the cold N.
table-lands by the barrier mountains of the Sierra Mbrena/—a corruption of
the Montes Mwrianos of the Romans, and not referring to the tawny-brown
. colour of its summer hortus siccus garb. The four kingdoms contain about
8283 square l., composed of mountain and valley ; the grand productive locality
is the basin of the Guadalquivir, which flows under the Sierra Morena. To the
S.E. rise the mountains of Ronda and Granada, which sweep down to the sea.
As their summits are covered with eternal snow, while the sugar-cane ripens at
their bases, the botanical range is inexhaustible: these sierras also are absolutely
marble and metal-pregnant. The cities are of the highest order in Spain, in re
spect to the fine arts and objects of general interest, while Gibraltar is a portion
of England herself. Amlalucia is admirably suited to our invalids; herewinter,
in our catch-cold acceptation of the term, is unknown. The genial climate
forms, indeed, one of the multitudinous boasts of the natives, who pride them
selves on this “ happy accident ” thus lavished on them by nature, as if the
bright skies were a making and merit of their own. Justly enough did the
‘ ancients place their Elysian fields amid these golden orange groves; these were
alike the seats of “ the blessed, the happy, and long-lived” of Anacreon, as the
homes of the rich and powerful of Holy Writ. These favoured regions, the
sweetest morsel of the Peninsula, have always been the prize and pre of the
strong man, no less than the theme of poets; and the Andalucians, om the
rcmotest periods of history, have been more celebrated for social and intellectual
qualities than for the practical and industrial. They are considered by their
countrymen to be the Gascons, the boasters and braggarts of Spain; and cer
tainly, from the time of Livy (xxxiv. 17) to the present, they are the most
“imbelle.s,” unwarlike, and umnilitary. It is in peace and its arts that these
gay, good-humoured, light-hearted children of a genial atmosphere excel; thus
their authors revived literature. when the Augustan age died at Rome, as
during the darkest periods of European barbarism, Oordova was the Athens
of the west, the seat of arts and science. Again, when the sun of" Raphael set
in Italy, painting here arose in a new form in the Velazquez, Murillo, and
Cano school of Seville, the finest of the Peninsula.
The Oriental imagination of the Andalucians colours everything up to their
bright sun. Their exaggeration, pondemcion, or giving weight to nothings,
converts their molehills into mountains ; all their geese are swans ; invincible at '
the game of brag, their credulity is commensurate, and they end in even believ
ing their own lies. Everything with them is either in the superlative or diminu
tive. Nowhere will the stranger hear more frequently those talismanic words
which mark the national ignoramus character—No se sabe, no se puede, con
forms, the ‘_‘ I dO!t11’1t kpéaw ;" “ I can: go it ;fl’;’ “That depends ” tllie Mafizzng,
{$22.2 'Z?'ZiZ‘§;r0c§miZ;Ti§’§°5”,?eZ¢s"Y%hZL“§Z§i‘§ mi ‘3 GZ3k€Z5w§,»?
I ' ,
is the “Salem Allah” of the Moors. Here remain the Bakalum or Veremos,
“We will see about it -” the Pek-éyi or mug bier» “Very we ;” and the In
shallah, si Dioa quiere: the “ If the Lord will ;’,’ the Ojala, or wishing that
God would do their work for them, the Moslem’s Im:o-Allah, the old appeal
to Hercules. In a word, here are to be found the besetting sins of the
Oriental; his indifference, procrastination, tempered by a religious resignation
128 run MAJO. Sect. II.
s, and the not marking the th clearly—for example, placer (placer) for plather
—is no less ofl'ensive to a fine grammatical ear than the habit of clipping the
Queen’s Spanish. The Castilian enunciates every letter and syllable, while the
Andalucian seldom sounds the d between two vowels; lo come, he eats it, and
says, comio, querio, ganao, for comido, querido, gamzdo ; no vale mi, no hay mi,
for no vale mzda, no hay mwla, and often confounds the double Z with the y,
saying gallamgos for gag/angos.
The fittest towns for summer residence are Granada and Ronda; Seville
and Malaga suit invalids during the winter, or Gibraltar, where the creature
_ comforts and good medical advice of Old England abound. The spring and
autumn are the best periods for a mere tour in Andalucia ; the summers, except
in the mountain districts, are intensely hot, while the rains in winter render
locomotion in the interior almost impracticable. The towns on the coast are
easily visited, as constant inter-communication between Cadiz and Malaga is
kept up by steamers, which touch at Gibraltar and Algeciras. The roads in
general are infamous—mere mule tracks, owing nothing to art except the tu.rn
pike toll; while canals are wanting, alike for trade or irrigation, and the rivers
are ceasing to be navigable from neglect. There is much talk of the rail, as soon
as the struggle who is to have the greatest share of plunder in the concessions
and schemes, is settled by the “powers that be.”
" The river G-uadalquivir is provided with steamers to Seville; but with the
exception of the road from Cadiz to Madrid, and that from Malaga to Granada,
there are no decent public carriages. The primitive Bedouin conveyance, the
horse, prevails, and is much to be preferred to the galeras, or carriers’ waggons,
which drag through miry ruts, or over stony tracks made by wild goats ; into
them no man who values time or his bones will venture. In spite of a fertile soil
and beneficent climate, almost half Andalucia is abandoned to a state of nature.
The soil is covered with lentisks, Liquorice and Palmitos, the indigenous weeds,
and other aromatic underwood, and is strewed with remains of Moorish ruins.
The land, once a paradise, seems cursed by man’s ravage and neglect. Here
those two things of Spain, the dehesas y despoblados, will be fully understood
by the traveller as he rides through lands once cultivated, now returned to
waste, and over districts once teeming with life, but now depopulated,andwho will
then and there learn completely to decline the verb “rough it ” in all its tenses.
English. So it has always been and‘ tion in so fine a climate may be traced
will be : Spain, at the critical moment, to the early, general, and excessive in
loves to fold her arms and allow others dulgence. The wretched foundlings in
to drag her wheels out of the mire; she the hospital La Cmza die como clzinvhes;
accepts their aid uncourteously, and as this mortality, it is said—a modern
if she was thereby doing her allies an massacre of the innocents —averages 75
honour; she borrows their gold and uses per cent. The lower orders have bor
their iron ; and when she is delivered, rowed from foreigners many vices not
“repudiates ;” her notion of re-payment common in the inland towns of tem
is by ingratitude; she draws not even on perate and decent Spain. Cadiz, as a
the “ exchequer ofthe poor” for thanks ; residence, is but a sea-prison ; the
nay, she filches from her benefactors water is bad, and the climate during
their good name, deckin herself in their the Solano wind (its sirocco), detest
plumes. The melnoryo Frenchinjuries able; then the mercury in the baro
is less hateful than that of English bene meter rises six or seven degrees, and the
fits, which wounds her pride, as evincing nativ are driven almost mad, espe
her comparative inferiority. cially the women; the searching blast
Cadiz, being the “ end of the world,” ‘ finds out everything that is wrong in
has always been made the last asylum the nervous constitution. The use of
of gasconading governments, since they the knife is so common during this
can run no further, because stopped by wind, that courts of justice make al
the sea: hither, afier prating about lowances for the irritant efl‘ects, as
Numantia, the Junta fled in 1810, set arising from electrical causes, the pass
ting the example to their imitators in ing over heated deserts. Cadiz used to
1823. Then the Cortes of Madrid be much visited by yellow fever—el vo
continued to chatter, and write imper mito negro—which was imported from
tinent notes to the allied sovereigns, the Havana. The invalid will find the
until Angouléme crossed the Bidasoa; soft and moist air somewhat relaxing;
when they all forthwith took to their but the city is well ventilated by fresh.
heels, fled to Cadiz, and next surren breezes, and the sea is an excellent
dered. Thus this city, which so long scavenger.
resisted the mighty Emperor, because There are very few good pictures at
defended by England, when left to its Cadiz. The new Museo contains some
single-handed valour, succumbed with 50 or 60 second-rate paintings, hun
such precipitation that the conquest dreds of books and pictures having
became inglorious even to the puny been left to rot on the floors by the
Bourbon. Yet the city still glories in authorities; among the best, or rather
the epithet “ Heroica,” one in truth the least bad, are, by Zurbaran, the
so common to Spanish cities, that the San Bruno—Eight Monks, figures
French, in 1823, when the mayors came smaller than life, from the Cartuja of
out with their pompous titles and keys Xerez ; two Angels ditt0,and six smaller ;
to surrender them instanter, scarcely the Four Evangelists, San Lorenzo and
could refrain from laughter. the Baptist. There is a Virgen de lw
Cadiz, purely a commercial town, has Faja, a copy after Murillo, by Tobar;
little fine art or learning; les lettres ole a San Agustin, by L. Giordano ; a
change y cont les belles lettres. It is San Miguel and Evil Spirits, and the
scarcely even the jocosa Gades of the Guardian Angel. The pride of the
past ; for the society being mercantile, is Gaditanians is the Last Judgment,
considered by Spaniards as second-rate. which, to use the criticism of Salvator
The women, however, fascinate alike by Rosa on Michael Angelo, shows their
their forms and manners. Cadiz, it islack of that article, as it is a poor pro
duction, by some feeble imitator of'
said, is rather the city of Venus, the
mother of love, than of the chaste Nicholas Poussin. An echo also greatly
Diana ; and the frequency of consump amuses grown up children.
-~
Cadiz is a garrison town, the see of dispute with flocks of sea-birds for the
a bishop sutfragan to Seville. It has a sahnonete, the delicious red mullet.
fine new Plaza de Torus, built outside Their long angling-canes and patience
the town by Montes, who half ruined are proverbial—la paciencia de un pes
himself thereby. It has two theatres ; cador de caia.
in the larger, El Principal, operas are Los Oaqmchinos, the suppressed con
performed during the winter, and in vent of San Francisco, were the head
the smaller, el del Balon, Sainetes, quarters of Lord Essex in 1596. Here
faroes, and the national Ba-iles or is the Academia de Nobles Aries, with
dances, which never fail to rouse the a museum, consisting chiefly of rubbish,
most siestose audience. Ascend the . and shabbily managed because of the
Torre de la Vigiu, below lies the old story “no funds.” The building is
smokeless whitened city, with its mim now used as a lunatic asylum. The
dores and azoteas, its look-out towers Plaza. de Mina has been created out of
and flat roofs, from whence the mer the convent garden: then and there
chants formerly signalised the arrival the Dragon-tree, bleeding from the
of their galleons. While Madrid has tomb 'of Geryon, the last of its race,
not one, Cadiz possesses two cathedrals was barbarously cut down, and even
near each other. The old one, La the matchless palm-grove shorn of its
Vieja, was built in 1597, to replace glories. The chapel contains the Mar
that injured during the siege. Its riage of St. Catherine, the last work of
want of dignity induced the city, in Murillo, who in 1682 fell here from the
1720, to commence a new one, La scaffolding, and died in consequence
Nueva ,- but the plans given by Vicente at Seville: the smaller subjects were
Acero were so bad that no one, in spite finished from his drawings by his pupil
of many attempts, was found able to Fro. Meneses Osorio, who did not ven
correct them, so the work was left unfi ture to touch what his master had done
nished in 1769, and the funds, derived in the first lay of colours, or ole p1'i1nera
from a duty on American produce, memo. A San Francisco receiving the
were regularly appropriated by the Stigmata is in Murillo’s best manner.
commissioners to themselves. The Notice also in a chapel opposite a
hull, used as a rope-walk, remained, Concepcion. These pictures were the
like a stranded wreck on a quicksand, gift of Juan Violeto, a Genoese, and a
in which the merchants‘ property was devotee to St. Catherine; but the chief
engulphed, until the interior was com benefactor of the convent was a foreign
pleted byBp. Domingo de Silos Moreno, Jew, one Pierre Isaac, who, to con
chiefly at his own expense, during a ciliate the Inquisition, and save his
time of civil war and church sequestra ducats, took the Virgin into partner
tions. The florid Corinthian is over ship, and gave half his profits to her,
charged with cornices and capitals, and or rather to the convent. Some single
bran-new pictures—daubs. Observe, figures by Zurbaran came from the
however, in a chapel behind the high Cartuja of Xerez.
altar, a fine Concepcion by Murillo. Following the sea-wall and turning
There is a history of this cathedral by to the rt. at the Puerta de la Caleta,
Javier de Urrutia, 1843. in the distance the fort and lighthouse
The searamparts which encircle the of San Sebastian rises about 172 ft.
city, extending more than 4 m. round, above the rocky ledge, which proved
are on this side the most remarkable; the barrier that saved Cadiz from --4'“:
here the rocks rise the highest, and the the sea at the Lisbon earthquake in
battering of the Atlantic is the greatest 1755. Next observe the huge yellow
as the waters gain on the land; their Doric pile, the Uasa de Miseficordia,
maintenance and rebuilding is a con built by Torquato Cayon. This, one
stant source of expense and anxiety. of the best conducted refuges of the
Here idlers, seated on the high wall, poor in Spain, sometimes contains 1000
136 ROUTE 1.-—-ALAMI<.‘DA, THE LADIES or csmz. Sect. II.
inmates, of which 300 to 400 are chil still, however, this is the spot for the
dren. Its great patron was O’Reilly, modern philosopher to study the de
who, in 1785, for a time suppressed scendants of those “ Gaditanm,” who
xnendicity in Cadiz. The court-yards, turned more ancient heads than even
the patios of the interior, are noble. the sun. The “ladies of Cadiz,” the
Here, Jan. 4~, 1813, a ball was given theme of our old ballads, have retained
by the grandees to “ the Duke,” fresh all their former celebrity, and have
from his victory of Salamanca, by cared neither for time nor tide. Ob
which the siege of Cadiz had been serve, particularly in this Alameda,
raised, and Andalucia saved, in spite their walk, about which every one has
of the marplot Cortes. heard so much, and which has been
Passing the artillery barracks and distinguished by a competent female
arsenal, we turn by the baluarte dc judge from the “affected wriggle of
Candelaria to the Ala/meda. This the French women, and the grenadier
charming walk is provided with trees, stride of the English, as a graceful
benches, fountain, and a miserable swimming gait.” The charm is that
statue of Hercules, the founder of it is natural; and, in being the true
Cadiz, and whose efligy, grappling with unsophisticated daughters of Eve and
two lions, the city bears for arms, with nature, the Spanish women have few
the motto “Gadis fundator domina rivals. They carry their heads with
torque.” Every Spanish town has its the free high-bred action of an Arab,
public walk, the cheap pleasure of all from walking alone and not slouching
classes. The term Ala/meda is derived and leaning on gentlemen’s arms, and
from the Ala/mo, or elm-tree. Some daintily from not having to keep step
times the esplanade is called El Salon, with the longer-legged sex. They walk
the saloon, and it is an al-fresco, out with the confidence, the power of
of doors Ridotto. Toma/r el fresco, to balance, and the instantaneous find
take the cool, is the joy of these south ing the centre of gravity, of the cha
ern latitudes. Those who have braved mois. The thing is done without effort,
the dog-days of the Castiles can best esti and is the result of a perfect organ
mate the delight of the sea-breeze which ization: one would swear that they
springs up after the scorching sun has could dance by instinct, and without
sunk beneath the western wave. This being taught. The Andaluza, in her
sun and the tides were the marvels of glance and step, learns, although she
Cadiz in olden times, and descanted does not know it, from the gazelle.
on in the classical handbooks. Philo Her pace, el Piagfar, and her pride
sophers came here on purpose to study may be compared to the Pezso CasteZ
the phenomena. Apollonius suspected lano of an ambling Cordovese barb.
that the waters were sucked in by sub According to Velazquez, the kings of
marine winds; Solinus thought this Spain ought never to be painted, ex
operation was performed by huge sub cept witching the world with noble
marine animals. Artemidorus reported horsemanship, and, certes, their female
that the sun’s disc increased a hundred subjects should never be seen except on
fold, and that it set, like Falstaff in foot, Et vera incessu patuit dea. As few
the Thames, with “ an alacrity of sink people, except at Madrid, can afford
ing, hot in the surge, like a horse-shoe,” to keep a carriage, all classes walk, and
or stridentem gurgite, according to Ju Practice makes
the air and soil perfect;
are alikehence the élite
clean and
" venal. The Spanish Goths imagined
that the sun returned to the E. by of the noblesse adorn the Alameda,
unknown subterraneous passages (San while in London the aristocratic foot
Isid. Or. 15). seldom honours the dirty earth.
The prosaic march of intellect has The Ga-ditana has no idea of not
settled the poetical and marvellous of being admired. She goes out to see,
ancient credulity and admiration; and still more to be seen. Her cos
Andalucia. ROUTE l.—FEMALE WALK AND narss. 137
But Cadiz was the eldest daughter of have them fried simply in oil, and give
Tyre, and her daughters naturally in directions that the trail, la: tripas, be
herited- the Sidonian “ stretching forth left in them, which S anish cooks, the
of necks, wanton eyes, walking and worst in the world, ot erwise take out ;
mmcmg as they go” (Isa. 111.6). Alas! here may be seen other fishes not to
for the sad changes making by the be found in Greenwich kitchens or in
commonplace chapeau! English dictionaries: e. g. the Juvel,
Barring these living objects of un the Savalo, and the Mew, which latter
deniable antiquarian and present in ranks among fish as the sheep does
terest, there is little else to be seen on among animals, en la tierra el ca/rnero,
this Alameda of Cadiz. The principal en la mar el mero. But El dorado,
building, El Carmen, is of the worst the lunated gilt head, so called from its
churriguerirmo : inside was buried golden eyes and tints, if eaten with
Adm. Gravina, who commanded the Tomata sauce, and lubricated with
Spanish fleet, and received his death golden sherry, is a dish fit for a cardinal.
wound at Trafalgar. Continuing to The new prison and unfinished Es
the E. is the large Aduana or Custom cuela de Comercio are cited by natives
house, disproportioned indeed to fail among their lions. The handsome
ing commerce and scanty revenues, street, la Calle Ancha, and in truth
and where everything that is vicious the only broad street, is the lounge of
and anti-commercial in tariffs is wor the city; here are all the best shops;
thily carried out by officials hateful the casas consistoriales may be looked
everywhere to travellers. Here Ferd. at. The chief sqlmre, and really a
VII. was confined in 1823 by the con aqua/re, planted, and provided with
stitutionalists. Thence the artist should seats, is placed under the protection of
pass to the Puerta del Mar, for cos San Antonio, because his statue in
tume, colour, and grouping. Here will 1648 came down from its pedestal to
be seen every variety of fish, and heal some sick. (Peyron, i. 243.)
female from the mantilliad Seiiora to The Cortes of Cadiz sat during the
the brisk Muchacha in her gay paiiuelo. war of independence in San Felipe
The ichthyophile should examine the Neri. Their debates ended Sept. 14,
curious varieties, which also struck 1813: many are printed in 16 vols.,
the naturalists and gourmands of an 4to. Diario ale las Cortes, Cadiz,
tiquity (Strabo, 214). Here, as at 1811-12. This Spanish Hansard is
Gibraltar, the monsters of the deep rare, Ferd. VII. having ordered all the
in form and colour, blubbers, scuttle copies to be burnt by the hangman as
fishes, and marine reptiles, pass de a bonfire on the first birth-day after
scription; ws triplex indeed must have his restoration. Whoever will open
been about the stomach of the man only one volume must admit that the
who first greatly dared to dine on pages are the greatest satire—the Mo
them. The dog-fish, the Pintarojo, niteur excepted—which any set of mis
for instance, is a delicacy of the omni rulers ever published on themselves.
vorous lower classes, who eat every The best speech ever made there was
thing except toads. The fish of the by the Duke (Dec. 30, 1812), after his
storm-vexed Atlantic is superior to usual energetic, straightforward, Eng
that of the languid Mediterranean. lish fashion.
The best here are the San Pedro, or The members were perfectly insen
John Dory, our corruption from the sible to the ludicrous disproportion of
Italian Janitore, so called because it is their inflated phraseology with facts;
the fish which the Porter of Heaven vast in promise, beggarly in perform
caught with the tribute-money in his ance, well might the performers be
mouth; the Salmomtes, the red mul called Vocales, for theirs was vox et
lets (the Sultan al hut, the king of pmterea nihil: an idiot’s tale, full of
fishes of the Moors) are right royal: sound and fury, signifying nothing, be
Andalusia. ROUTE 1.-—EL PUERTO DE SANTA MARIA. 139
ing mere Palabras, palaver, or “ words, Every day confirms the truth of the
words, words ;” “a volley of words” Duke’s remark (Sept. 12, 1812): “I
instead of soldiers; “a fine earcheguer really believe that there is not a man
of words ” instead of cash. The curse in the country who is capable of com
of poor Spain are these jantas or cortex, prehending, much less of conducting,
caricatures ofparliaments, where things any great concern.”
are talked about not done, or if done,
done badly; it is adding insult to injury THE BAY OF OADIZ.
when the forms of free men are made A rail is in contemplation for this
instruments of tyranny. circuit; but in Spain, a land where, as
Now as few things alter in Spain, in the East, time is of no value, and
and none so little as any governing want of funds the chronic complaint,
body of any kind, hear the oracular the natives seldom do to—day what can
Duke, who appears at once to have be put off’ for to-morrow, their beloved
understood the Cortes by the instinct Mariana ; and well did our wise Bacon
of strong sense: “The leading people wish that his tardy death might come
among them have in/ea/riablg deceived from Spain: me venga la muerte des
the lower orders, and instead of mak Espaiia. Even rail matters here move
ing them acquainted with their real like our Court of Chancery; in fact,
situation, and calling upon them to all love to leave something for poste
make the exertions and the sacrifices rity to do, and do not go to work, as
which were necessary evenfor their de they say, con esafuria que par zihi se
fence, they have amused them with idle acostu/mbra, coma si el mundo sefuera
stories of imaginary successes, with acabar ; so mean time take a boat.
visionary plans of offensive operations, The outer bay is rather exposedt
which those who ofl'er them for consi the S.W., but the anchorage in the‘
deration know they have no means of inner portion is excellent. Some dan
executing, and with the hopes of driving gerous rocks arc scattered opposite the
the French out of the Peninsula by town, in the direction of Rota, and
some unlocked;/'or good” (Disp., May ‘are called Las Puercas, the Sows-—
11, 1810). Again, “It is extraordi xmpuisq ; for these porcine appellations
nary that the revolution in Spain are as common in Spanish nomencla
should not have produced one man ture as among the ancients, and tho
with any knowledge of the real situ hog-hack is not a bad simile for many
ation of his country; it really appearsof such rocky formations. Rota lies
as if they were all drunk, thinking andon the opposite (west) side of the bay,.
talking of any objects but Spain : how and is distant about five miles across..
it is to end God knows !” (Disp., Nov. Here the tent wine used for our sacra
1, 1812). This, however, still is and ments is made; the name being nothing.
has long been the hard lot of this ill but the Spanish ti/ntilta, from tinto,
fated country. Spain, says Justin red. The next point is La Puntilla,
(xliv. 2), never, in a long series of ages, and then that defended by the battery
produced one great general except Viri Sa. Catalina.
atus, and he was but a guerrillero, E1. Punnro ma S1‘A- Mann, Port
like the Cid, Mina, or Zumalacarregui. St. Mary, and usually called el Paerta,
The people, indeed, have honest hearts the port (o~Porto), was the Portus Me
and vigorous arms, but, as in the East nesthei (Le Min As-ta, Portus Astae), a
ern fable, a head is wanting to the body. Punic word, which the Greeks, who, as
The many have been sacrificed to the usual, caught at sound, not sense, con
few, and exposed to destitution in peace ' nected with the Athenian Menestheus.
and to misfortune in war by unworthy It lies distant from Cadiz 8 l. by land,
rulers, ever and only intent on their 2 l. by sea.
own selfish interests, to the injury Inns.—Near the landing-place is the
of their fatherland and countrymen. Vista alegre, which to a cheerful look
140 ROUTE 'l .—CADIZ-—THE TROCADERO. Sect. II.
out unites cleanness and sundry English zuela, and narrows as it draws to the
conveniences rare on the continent. inner division; the mouth is defended
Here the Guadalete enters the bay; by the cross-fires of the forts Mata
the bar is dangerous, and much ne gorda and Puntales. At the latter
glected. In the days of sailing-boats, Lord Essex landed in 15§6 and did take
prayers to the blessed souls in purga Cadiz ; which Victor bombarded from
tory and making crosses were chiefly the former and did not take. Now row
resorted to; now small steamers go up the Trocaziero, which divides an
backwards and forwards three times islet from the main land. Fort San
a day; the passage takes from half Luis, once a flourishing place, was
to three-quarters of an hour. The ruined by Victor, an enemy, in 1812,
Puerto is pleasant and well built; and annihilated by Angouléme, an ally,
pop. 18,000. The river is crossed by in 1823. Of his taking the Tr0ca
a suspension bridge: in the Plaza dc dera, the glory of the Restoration,
Torus was given a grand bullfight to even Messieurs Bory de St. Vincent
the Duke, described by Byron, better as and Laborde are ashamed. The French,
apoet, than as a correct torero. The soil led by the ardent and aquatic G-en.
of the environs is rich, and the water Goujon, passed through four and a
so excellent that Cadiz is supplied half feet of water. “Les constitu
with it to the cost of 10,000Z. a-year, tionnels prirent alors la fuite,” so the
while ancient G-ades was supplied assailants, “sans avoir perdu un seul
by an aqueduct, which O’R.eilly would homme,” carried the strong fort, “sans
have restored had he remained in oflice. effusion de sang.” Those who fight and
The Puerto, one of the three great run away, may live to fight another day.
towns of wine export, vies with Xercz Yet Mr. Campbell, when Bacchi plenus
and San Lucar. The principal houses it is to be presumed, apostrophised
are French and English. The vicinit y these truly quick heroes as dead ones:
to Cadiz, the centre of exchange, is “ Brave men, who at the Trocadero fell
favourable to business, while the road Beside your cannon, conquered not, though
to Xerez is convenient for conveying slain.”
down the wines, which are apt to be Matagorda was dismantled by Victor;
staved in the water-carriage of the a few fragments may be seen at very
Guadalete. Among the best houses low water.
may be named Osborne and Dufl' Gor At the head of the Trocadero, and
don, whose Amontillado is matchless, on an inner bay, is Puerto Real,
Mousley, Oldham, Burdon and Gray, founded in 1488 by Isabella. This,
Pico, Mora, Heald, German and Co. despite of its royalty, is a tiresome
The bodegas or wine-stores deserve a poor and fishy place of parallel and
visit, although those of Xerez are on a rectangular streets. It was the head
grander scale. The town is vinous quarters of Marshal Victor, who, by
and uninteresting : the houses resemble way of leaving a parting souvenir, de
those of Cadiz: the best street is the stroyed 90O houses. Here a new basin
Calle La/rga _,- the prettiest ala/meala is for steamers blessed by the Bishop in
la Victoria. Here Ferd. VII. landed, 1846, and waltzed in by the ladies,
Oct. 1, 1823, when delivered from the still excites the wonder of Cadiz.
Constitutionalists by the French, and Opposite is the river or canal Santi or
forthwith proceeded to violate every Sa/ncti Peiri (the Sancto Petro of olden
solemn pledge to friend and foe. Here, chronicles), which divides the Isla from
July 30, 1843, Baldomero Espartero, the main land. On the land-bank is
the Regent Duke, driven out by the one of the chief naval arsenals of Spain,
intrigues of Louis Philippe and Chris La Cwrraca, the station of the O'a/r
tina, concluded his first career on board racas, the ca/rracks, galleons, or heavy
a. British line-of-battle ship. ships of burden: a word derived from
The bay now shelves towards Cabe the low Latin carricare, to load, quasi
Andalucia. nours l.—LA CARRACA ARSENAL. 141
sea-carts. The Normans invaded these from Trafalgar under Mons. Rosilly,
coasts of Spain in huge vessels called surrendered nominalky to the Spaniards,
ka/nikir. This town, with the opposite for Collingwood, by blockading Cadiz,
one of San Carlos, was founded by had rendered escape impossible.
Charles III. to form the Portsmouth The Somti Petri river, the water key
and Woolwich of his kingdom. Pre of La Isla, is deep, and defended at its
viously to the Bourbon accession Spain mouth by a rock-built" castle. This,
obtained her navies, ready equipped, the site of the celebrated temple of
from Flanders, but urged on by France, Hercules, was called by the Moors
and made the tool of the family com “ The district of idols.” Those remains
pact, she soon warred with England; which the sea had spared have chiefly
and now La Carraca, like El Ferrol been used up by the Spaniards as a
and Cartagena, tells the result of quar quarry. Part of the foundations were
relling with her natural friend. These seen in 1755, when the waters retired
are emblems of Spain fallen from her during the earthquake. For the rites
pride of place through Bourbon friend of this pagan convent, see our paper
ship. Every thing speaks of a past in the Quar. Rev. cxxvi. 283. The
magnificence. Apresent silence and de river is crossed by the Puente de
solation contrast with the former bustle Zuazo, so called from the alcaide Juan
of this once-crowded dockyard, where Sanchez de Zuazo, who restored it in
were floated those noble three-deckers, the fifteenth century It is of Roman
Nelson's “old acquaintances.” The foundation, and was constructed by
navy of Spain in 1789 consisted of 76 Balbus to serve both as a bridge and
line-of-battle ships and 52 frigates; now an aqueduct. The water was brought
“the Spanish fleet ye cannot see, because to Cadiz from Tempul, near Xerez, but
it’s not in sight ;” it is nearly reduced both were destroyed in 1262 by the
to that a/rmada, decreed to be built in Moors. The tower was built by Alonso
birthday gazettes of 1853. In truth el Sabio, who had better have restored
non-commercial Spain (Catalonia ex the aqueduct. This bridge was the
cepted, which is not Spain) never was pans asinoru/rn of Victor, as the En
really a naval power. The Arab and glish never suffered him to cross it.
Berber repugnance to the sea, and the Here the Marshal set up his batteries,
confinement of the ship, still marks having invented a new mortar capable
the Spaniard; and now the loss of her of throwing shells even into Cadiz.
colonies has rendered it impossible for The defeat of Marmont by the Duke
Spain to have a navy, which even at Salamanca recoiled on M. Victor
Charles III. in vain attempted to force, -—abiit, excessit, evasit, erupit. Now
although Mons. Gautier was his ship his failure is explained away by the
wright. old story, “inferior numbers.” The
How changed the site and scene allies, according to M. Belmas (i. 138),
from the good old times when Mago amounted to 30,000, of which 8000
here moored his fleet, and Caesar his were English “ men in buckram,”
long galleys ; when Philip anchored the “ Victor ayant a peine 20,000.” For
“twelve apostles,” the treasure-galleons once Napoleon told the truth at St.
taken by Essex; when Drake, in April, Helena when he said, Victor était un
I587, with 30 small ships destroyed béte, sans taiens et sans téte.
more than 100French and Spanish “big From this bridge return by land
braggarts,” singeing, as he said, “the through La Isla de Leon, so called be
King of Spain’s whiskers ;” here were cause granted in 1459 to the Ponce do
collected in after times the 40 sail of Leon family, but resumed again by the
the line prepared to invade and conquer crown in 1484. This island was the
England——St. Vincent and Trafalgar Erythrsea, Aphrodisia, Cotinusa, Tar
settled that; here, in June, 1808, 5 tessus of the uncertain geography of
French ships of the line, runaways the ancients. Here Geryon (faeuv, a
142 norm: 2.—-camz TO GIBRALTAR. Sect. II.
fine old fellow, the Stranger in the He dura, cuts the isthmus, which, suppos
brew) fed those fat kine which Hercules ing it had guns and men, and either
“lifted;" and whose golden fleeces— were in eflicient order, it would defend.
fine wool—tempted the Phwnecian ar Now Cadiz is approached amid heaps
gonauts ; and his descendant the Giron of filth, which replace the pleasant
(Duque de Osuna) is still the great gardens demolished during the war.
Lord of Andalucia; but the breed of To the left of the land-gate, between
cattle is extinct, for Bsetican beef, or the Aguaala and San Jose, is the Eng
rather vaca, cow, is now of the leanest lish burial-groun d, acquired and planted
kine, and the bulls are better for bait by Sir John Brackenbury, father of the
ing than basteing. present consul, for the bodies of poor
San Fernando, the capital of the Isla, i heretics, who formerly were buried in
is a straggling decaying town, but gay the sea-sands beyond high-water mark.
looking with its fantastic lattices and Now there is “ snug lying” here, which
house-tops, and the bright sun which ‘ is a comfort to all Protestants who con
gilds the poverty. Here the Junta first template dying at Cadiz, and are curious
halted in their flight, and spouted about Christian burial.
(Sept. 24, 1810) against the French Cadiz is soon entered by the land
cannon. Salt, the staple, is made in gate, the Puerta de Tierra. The walls
the ralinas and the marshes below, and defences are sadly dilapidated, and
where the conical piles glisten like the ‘ might be taken by a bold boat’s crew.
white ghosts of the British tents, when The grand secret in any warfare against
our red jackets were quartered here. Spanish fleets, forts, or armies, is to at
The salt-pans have all religious names, tack them instantly, as they will “al
like the line-of-battle ships (when there ways be found wanting in everything
were any), the wine—cellars of Xerez, or at the critical moment.”
the mine-shafts of Almaden, e._q. El Cadiz is a good point of departure
dulce nombre de Jesus, &c. In these for ships. Vessels sail regularly for the
marshes breed innumerable small crabs, Havana ; steamers proceed to England
cangrejos, whose fore-claws are tit-bits and Egypt, to Portugal and the Basque
for the Andaluz ichthyophile. These provinces and France ; also to Gib
bar.-as de la Isla are torn oif from raltar, Valencia, and Marseilles. Others
the living animal, who is then turned navigate the Guadalquiver up to Seville,
adrift, that the claws" may grow again while diligences run by land to Xerez
for a new operation; chameleons also and on to Madrid. The days and
abound. At No. 38, just below the hours of departure will be seen pla
Plaza, Riego lodged, and proclaimed carded on every wall and are known at
the “ constitution” in 1820. The every inn.
secret of this patriotism was a dislike
in the ill-supplied semi-Berber army,
to embark in the South American ex
pedition with which Ferdinand hoped ROUTE 2.—CADIZ TO GIBRALTAR, BY
to reinforce the blunderer Morillo. Los Bamnos AND Tamra.
Passing the Torregorda, the busy, Miles.
dusty, crowded, narrow road La Cal Chiclana . . . . . 13
Va. de Vejer . . . . 16 . . 29
zmia is carried along the isthmus to Va. Taibilla . . . . 14 .. 43
Cadiz. Still called el camino de Ercoles, Va. Ojen . . . . . 11 . . 54
it runs where ran the via Heraclea of Los Barrios . . . . 9 .. 63
Gibraltar . . . . . 12 . . 75
the Romans, which led to his temple:
nor is the present road much more The most expeditious mode is by steam,
Spanish, since it was planned in 1785 and the passage through the straits is
by O’Reilly, an Irishman, and executed splendid. The ride by land, for there
by Du Bouriel, a Frenchman. is no carriage road, has been accom
A magnificent outwork, La Qorta plished by commercial messengers in
Andalucia. acorn 2.—-CHICLANA. 143
16 hours. Taking that route, the better city of Sidon, thought by some to be —@-4t|'»um-~-,~1-»i~*r1@».¢_;u¢-
"Q-I
plan is to leave Cadiz in the afternoon, the site of the Phoenician Asidon, but
sleep at Chiclana the first night, and all these tit bits for the antiquarian
the second at Ta/r"§j'a. Those who are “Caviare to the general.” The
divide the journey into two days, sulphur-baths here, especially the Fu
halt first at Vqjer; from hence there ente amarga, are much used in cuta
are two routes, which we give approxi neous and cachetic complaints.
matively in miles—and such miles! The town looks pretty from afar
The first route is the shortest. At the with its white houses, gardens, and
Venta ale Ojen the road branches, a painted railings, but it is ill-paved,
track leads to Algeciras, 10 m. ; it is a worse drained and lighted, and, in
wild and often dangerous ride, espe fact, is not worth visiting, being a
cially at the Trocha pass, which is whitened sepulchre full of decay; and -— -4~—.-»_ . . _ .,
infested with smugglers and charcoal this may be predicated of many of
burners, who occasionally become rate these hill-fort towns, which, glittering
ros and robbers. At allevents, “ attend in the bright sun, and picturesque in
to the provend,” fill the bota with wine, form and situation, appear in the en
and the basket with prog. The most chantment-lending distance to be fairy
interesting route is— residences : all this illusion is dispelled
Miles. on entering into these dens of dirt,
Chiclana . . . . . 13 .. ruin, and poverty: reality, which like
Va. de Vejer . . . . 16 .. 29
Va. Taibilla . . . . 14 .. 43 a shadow follows all too highly-excited
Tarifa . .
Algeciras . .
Gibraltar . ‘ .
. .
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
16
12
9
..
..
..
69
71
80
expectations, darkens the bright dream
of poetical fancy. Yet what would life
be without hope, which still cheers
§
Quitting the Isla at the bridge of man on, undaunted by experience.
Zuazo we reach Ohiclana, on a gentle Again, once for all, it may be said
sandy eminence. Pop. 4000. It is the that generally the correlative of the pic
landin_q,not watering, place of the Cadiz turesque is the uncomfortable, and the
merchants, who, weary of their sea better the food for the painter’s eye
prison, come here to enjoy the terra outside the town, the worse the chance
firma. The air is pure and the baths of bed and board inside.
luxurious. It is, moreover, a sort of Nothing can be more different than
medical Botany bay, to which the Anthe aspect of Spanish villages in fine
dalucian faculty transports those many
or in bad weather; as in the East,
patients whom they cannot cure: in during wintry rains they are the acmcs
compound fractures and chronic dis of mud and misery: let but the sun
orders, they prescribe bathin here,shine out, and all is gilded. His beam
is like the smile which lights up the
ass’s milk, and a broth made o a long
harmless snake, which abounds near habitually sad expression of a Spanish
Barrosa. We have forgotten the ge woman. Fortunately, in the south of 1
neric name of this valuable reptile of Spain, fine weather is the rule, and
Esculapius. The naturalist should not, as among ourselves, the excep
»:
take one alive, and compare him with tion. The blessed sun cheers poverty
the vipers which make such splendid itself, and by its stimulating, exhila
pork in
I ches), Estremadura
or with les vipers:(see Montan
de Poito-u, to rating action on the system of man,
enables him to buffet against the moral
whose broth Mde. de Sévigné attri evils to which countries the most fa
buted her good health. (Let. July voured by climate seem, as if it were
8th, 1685.) From the hill of Santa from compensation,‘ to be more ex
Ana is a good panorama; 3 L. ofl', posed than those where the skies are
sparkling, like a pearl set in gold, on a dull, and the winds bleak and cold.
hill where it cannot be hid, basks Me Medina Sidonia gives the ducal title to
dina Sidonia, Medinatu-Shidunah, the the descendants of Guman el Bueno,
144 noun: 2.—BARI‘.0SA.———TllE e.u"r1.s. Sect. II.
to whom all lands lying between the in front, instantly defied the united
Gaudalete and Guadairo were granted brigades of Rufiin and Laval, com
for his defence of Tarifa. The city manded by Victor in person, and having
was one of the strongest holds of the riddled the head of their columns with
family. Here the fascinating Leonora a. deadly fire, then charged with the
do Guzman, mistress of the chivalrous bayonet in the “ old style z” an hour and
Alonso XL, and mother of Hem'y of a half settled the affair by a “sauve
Trastamara, fled from the vengeance of qui peut.” Victor decamped, while
Alonso’s widow and her son Don La Peiia did not even dare to follow
Pedro. Here again that cruel king, up and finish the flying foe. No single
in 1361, imprisoned and put to death stroke was struck that day by Spanish
his ill-fated wife Blanche of Bourbon, sabre: but assistance from Spain ar
—-the Mary Stuart of Spanish ballads, rives either slowly or never. Socorros
—beautiful, and, like her, of suspected de Espafia tarde 0 NUNCA. This is a
chastity ; this execution cost Pedro his very favourite Spanish proverb; for
life and crown, as it furnished to France the shrewd people revenge themselves
an ostensible reason for invading Spain, by a refran on the culpable want of
and placing the anti-English Henry of means and forethought of their incom
Trastamara on the throne. petent rulers: Gonzalo de Cordova
Leaving Chiclana, the track soon used to compare such help to San Telmo
enters into wild sandy aromatic pine (see Tuy), who, like Castor and Pol
clad, snake-peopled solitudes: to the lux, never appears until the storm is
r. rises
the immortal knoll of Ba/rroscz. over. Blessed is the man, said the
When Soult, in 1811, left Seville to Moorish general, who expects no aid,
relieve Badajoz, an opportunity was for then he will not be disappointed.
offered the Spaniards, by attacking Graham remained master of the
Victor in the flank, of raising the siege field. Then, had La Pena, who had
of Cadiz. The expedition was in an thousands of fresh troops, but moved
evil hour entrusted to Manuel de la one step, Barrosa would indeed have
Peiia, a fool and a coward, but the been contemporaneous with Torres
favoured creature of the Duchess of Vedras, for on that very day Massena
Osuna. The expedition was misman too began his retreat. Victor, when
aged by this incapable from beginning he saw that he was not followed, re
to end. In February, 11,200 Spani covered from his panic, and indited a
ards, 4300 English and Portuguese, bulletin, “how he had beaten back
were landed at the distant Tarifa, 8000 Englishmen.” Now-a-days our
when La Pefia, instead of resting at lively neighbours claim a more com
Conil, brought the English to the plete victory, and, entering into details,
ground after 24e.l1011I‘S of intense toil relate how Graham’s triple line, with
and starvation. Graham, contrary to 3000 men in each,” was culbuté by the
his orders, had injudiciously ceded the French, who were “un contre deux,”
command in chief to the Spaniard, and that “the loss of the eagles was
who, on arriving in the critical mo solely owing to the accidental death of
ment, skulked himself away towards the ensigns.” How very unlucky!
the Santi Petri, ordering Graham to Touching the real truth of this en
descend from the Sierra del Puerco g agement at Barrosa, what says the
the real key, to the Torre Berme;7'a, Duke (Disp., March 25, 1811), to whom
distant nearly a league. The French, Graham had thought it necessary to
who saw the error, made a splen apologise for the rashness of attacking
did rush for this important height: with his handful two entire French
but the gallant Graeme, although left divisions ?—“I congratulate you and
alone in the plain with his feeble, your brave troops on the signal victory
starving band, and scarcely having time which you gained on the 5th; I have
to form his lines, the rear rank fighting no doubt whatever that their success
Andalucia. nouns 2.—TRAFALG AR——THE TUNNIIZS. 145
would have had the efl‘ect of raising The ride from Barrosa to Tarifa
the siege of Cadiz, if the Spanish troops passes over uncultivated, unpeopled
had made any eifort to assist them. wastes. The country remains as it was
The conduut of the Spaniards through left after the discomfiture of the Moor,
out this expedition is precisely the or looks as if man had not yet been -
' same as I have ever observed it to be: created. To the r. is Conil. 3 L. from
they march the troops night and day Chiclana, and 1 L. from Cape Trafalgar.
without provisions or rest, and abusing Pop. 3000. Built by Guzman elBuen0,
everybody who proposes a moment’s it was famous for its tunny fisheries. In
delay to afford either to the fatigued May and June the fish return into the
or famished soldiers; they reach the Atlantic from the Mediterranean. The
enemy in such a state as to be unable almadraba, or catching, a most Arabic
to make any exertion or execute any affair, as the name implies, used to
plan, even if any plan had been formed ; be a season of great festivity. For
they are totally incapable of any move merly 70,000 fish were taken, now
ment, and they standto see their allies scarcely 4000; the Lisbon earthquake
destroyed, and afterwards abuse them of 1755 having thrown up sands on
because they do not continue, unsup the coast, by which the fish are driven
ported, exertions to which human na into deeper water: the “ atun escabe
ture is not equal.” La Pefia, once chazlo,” or pickled tunny, is the “Plei
safe in Cadiz, claimed the victory as xmu, the “Salsamenta,” with which
his! and now the English are either and dancing girls, Gades supplied the
not mentioned at all by Spanish his Roman epicures and amateurs. Ar
torians (lgartuburu, p. 179, Madoz, chestratus, who made a gastronomic
vii. 324), or the ultimate failure of the tour, thought the under fillet to be the
expedition is ascribed to our retreat! incarnation of the immortal gods.
(Maldonado, iii. 29.) La Pei'\a,el delin l\T4ear Oonil much sulphur is found.
cuente honrewlo, was decorated with the The long, low, sandy lines of Tra
star of Carlos III.! and Ferd. VII., falgar (Promontorium Jnnonis, hence
in 1815, created a new order for this forward Nelsonis) now stretch towards
brilliant Spanish victory! l The Cortes Tarifa; the Arabic name, Taraf-al
propounded to Graham a grandeeship, ghar, signifies the promontory of the
as a sop, which he scornfully refused. cave. This cape bore about 8 m. N.E.
The title proposed, Duque del Cierro over those hallowed waters where Nel
del Puerco (Duke of Pig’s—hill), was in son, felix opportnnitate mortis, sealed
truth more euphonious among bacon the empire of the sea with his life
loving Spaniards than ourselves. blood; for things so great can only be
Buonaparte attributed Victor’ s defeat carried through by death: Nelson was
to Sebastiani (Belm. i. 518, 25), who, that glorious concentration of national
influenced by jealousy of his colleague, spirit, which made and will make every
confined himself to advancing to San English sailor do his duty to the end
Rogue, where he remained pillaging. of time.
Barrosa was another of the many T'r'a_fal_qa1'—tanto nomini nullum par
instances of the failures which the eulogium——changed Buonapa.rte’s vi
dis-union of Buonaparte’s generals en sionary invasion of England, into the
tailed on their arms. These rivals real one of Francc ; England left now
never would act cordially together : as with no more enemies on the sea, turned
the Duke observed when enclosing an to the lancl for an arena of victory.
intercepted letter from Marmont to The spirit of the Black Prince and of
Foy, “ This shows how these gentry are Marlborough, of Wolfe and of Aber
going on ; in fact, each marshal is the croxnbie awoke, the sails were furled,
natural enemy of the king (Joscph) and and that handful of infantry landed
of his neighbouring marshal” (Disp., on the most western rocks of the Pen
Nov. 13, 1811). insula which marched in one triumph
Spain.-—I. H
146 ROU rs 2.——'1‘_R.\FALG.»LR——'I‘llE narru-2. Sect. II.
ant course until it planted its red flag Thus it is that the spirits of the great
on the walls of Paris. This doing the and wise continue to live and to act afi/er
old thing in the old style is thus plea them." This indeed is immortality.
santly referred to by M. Foy, i. 197: The S aniards fought well at Tra
“ Bientot cot art nouveau! pour les falgar, t e nadir of their marine, as
Anglais allait lcur devoir nécessaire Lepanto was its zenith: Gravine, their
presque D. l’égal dc la science navale.” gallant noble admiral was wounded and
Nelson, on the memorable Oct. 21, died, refusing to have his arm amputa
1805, commanded 27 small ships of the ted, and telling Dr. Fellowes, that he
line and only four frigates: the latter, was going to join Nelson, the “greatest
his “eyes” were wanting as usual; he man the world has ever produced.”
had prayed for them in vain, from our The French vice-admiral, Dumanoir,
wretched admiralty, as the Duke (lid having kept out of the action, fled at
afierwards. The enemy had 33 sail of the close, “backing his topsails,” says
the lino, many of them three-deckers, Southey, “to fire into the captured
and seven frigates. Nelson, as soon, Spanish ships as he passed,” when
as they ventured out of Cadiz, consi the indignant crews intreated to be al
dered them “his property ;” he “bar lowed to serve against their quondam
gained for 20 at least.” He never re allies. This Dumanoir, with four run
garded disparity of numbers, nor count aways, was caught, Nov. 4, oil‘ Cape
ed an enemy’s fleet except when prizes Finisterre by Sir Richard Strachan,
afier the baltle—synonymous with him when all were taken, his own ship, the
with victory. He, with hope deferred, “ Formidable” being the first to strike.
had long chased them over wide seas, This man, who, Southey thought,
in full cry, every rag set, everysai1burst “ought to have been hanged in the
ing with impatience, and No. 16 sig sight of the remains of the Spanish
nal for “close action” hoisted; and now, fleet,” was acquitted at Toulon, because
when at last he saw them, it was to he had “ manoeuvre’ salon Fimpulsion du
give his “Nelsonic touch" no “drawn DEVOIR et de Fhonneur!” and was
battles now,” but simple—A.nnihilation: made a count in 1814 by Louis XVIII.
Nelson was wounded at a quarter Nelson’s notions of honour, duty and
before one, and died 30 minutes past manmuvring were after a different fa
four. He lived long enough to know shion. His mammwre—a nautical no
that his triumph was complete, and velty indeed—was to break the long
the last sweet sounds his dying ears line of the foe with a short double line;
caught were the guns fired at the flying a manoeuvre which few foreign fleets
foe. He died on board his beloved will try against an English squadron,
“Victory,” and in the arms of its pre whose guns would sink their opponents
siding tutelar, only 47 years old: “ye ,” as they approached singly; however
says Southey, “he cannot be said to according to M. de Montferrier, ‘Dic
have fallen prematurely whose work tionnaire dc la Marine,’ Paris 184-1,
was done, nor ought he to be lamented “C’est a cette science, la 1nan0euvI'e,
who died so full of honours at the que la marine Frangaise doit toutes ses
height of human fame, and if the cha victoires ; en eifet, il n’y a point
riot and the horses of fire had been d‘exemple, oh, it forces égales, une ur
vouchsafed for Ne1son’s translation, he mée Anglaise nous nit battus !”
could scarcely have departed in a Be that as it may, some how
brighter blaze of glory. He has left us or another, this Trafalgar “settled
not, indeed, his mantle of inspiration, Boney” by sea, to use the Duke’s
but a name and example which are at phrase, when he did him that ser
this hour inspiring thousands of the {vice by land; all his paper projects
youth of England; a name which is our ' about “ships, colonies and _commerce,”
pride, and an example, which will con all his fond phrases of “French lakes,”
tmue to be our shield and our strength. were blown to the winds; accordingly,
Andalucia. ROUTE 2.-——FRENCH VERSIONS OF TRAFALGAR. 147
he omitted all allusion to Trafalgar tions are disposed of by Sir Harris Ni
in the French papers, as he after colas in Nelson’s Dispatches, immortal
wards did the Duke’s victories in as those of the Duke, the controversy
Spain. Thus Pompey never allowed is not ended; and the Spaniards have
his reverses in the Peninsula to be pub taken such offence at their allies’ ver
lished (Hirt. B. H. 18). Buonaparte sion of Trafalgar, as given by M. Thiers
received the news of his misfortunes at in his Hiatoire da Consulat, Lib. XXIL,
Vienna, which clouded le soleil d’Aus and especially at the sneer that five
terlitz with an English fog: his fury Spanish men of war then and there fled, i
!!
was unbounded, and he exclaimed, having “ sauvé leur existence beaucoup
“Je saurai bien apprendre aux ami plus que leur honneur ; ” that a grave 1
raux Francais a vaincre” at C’. refutation was put forth at Madrid in
xvr. 197). 1850 by Manuel Marliani, and it is a
Fivemonths afterwards he slightly very pretty quarrel as it stands ; mean
alluded to this accidental disaster, as time both of the beaten parties contend
scribing it, as the Spaniards falsely do that each of their single ships was at
the destruction of their invincible ar tacked by five or six English. The real
mada, not to English tars, but the heroes of the day and their défaite héro
winds: “Les tempétes nous ont fait ique were either Sefiores Ghurraco, Ga
perdre quelgues vaisseaux, apres un liano, &c., or Messieurs Lucas, Magon,
combat imprudemment engagé.” Yet &c., small mention being made of the
Villeneuve had that decided numerical nobody Nelson, a sort of loup-marin, a,
superiority without which, according man, according to M.Thiers, assez borné
to ]3uonaparte’s express orders, an when off his quarter-deck. The French
English fleet was never to be attacked Admiral Villeneuve was said to have
and our sole unsubsidised allies, “les killed himselfin despair at his disgrace,
tempétes,” in real truth occasioned to but, says Southey, “there is every rea
as the loss of many captured ships; son to conclude that the tyrant added
a storm arose after the victory, and the him to the numerous victims of his
disabled conquerors and vanquished murderous policy,” and the silence oh
were buffeted on the merciless coast: served in the ‘Moniteur’ strengthens
many of the prizes were destroyed. this suspicion (see Wat. et Cong. XVI.
The dying orders of Nelson, “ Anchor, 198).
Hardy! Anchor!” were disobeyed by The country now presents a true
Collingwood, whose first speech on as picture of a Spanish dekesa y despo
suming the command was, “Well! blado. The rich soil, under a vi ' '
that isthe last thing that I should have sun, is given up to the wild plant and
thought of!” Collingwood also made insect : earth and air teem with life.
another small mistake in his dispatch: There is a melancholy grandeur in
Nelson did not “die soon after his these solitudes, where Nature is busy
wound ;” he lived to gain the whole at her mighty work of creation, heed
victory. ' less of the absence or presence of the
Although none on either side of the larger insect man. Vejer—Bekkeh—
Pyrenees have yet claimed Trafalgar as offers a true specimen of a Moorish
their victory, yet all are convinced, had town, scrambling up a precipitous em
real nautical valour and science not inence. Pop. 9000. The venta lies
been marred by fortune and accident, below, near the bridge over the Bar
that it ought not to have been 011/rs. bate. Here Queseda, in March, 1831,
Every lie circumstantial was published put down an abortive insurrection. Six
at the time; thus the Journal de Pa hundred soldiers had been gained over
ris, Dec. 7, 1805, added 8 ships of the at Cadiz by the emissaries of Torrijos.
line to tho English squadron, while The loss in the whole contest, on which
the Gazetta de Madrid, of the 19th, for the moment the monarchy hung,
added 12. Although all these inven was one killed, two wounded, and two
H 2
148 ROUTE 2--——THE STRAITS OF GIBRALTAR. Sect. II.
bruised. According to Queseda’s bul- . of desert sand, rises abruptly out of
letin, worthy of his namesake Don the sea, in a tremendous jumble, and
Quixote, his troops performed “prodi- ‘ backed by the eternal snows of the
gios de valor!" a shower of crosses Atlas range; two continents lie before
were bestowed on the conquering us : we have reached the extremities of
heroes. Such are the guerrillas, the the ancient world; a narrow gulf di
truly “little wars” which Spaniards‘ vides the lands of knowledge, liberty,
wage infer se; and they may be well, and civilisation, from the untrodden
compared to the wretched productions ‘regions of barbarous ignorance, of
of some of the minor theatres, in which slavery, danger, and mystery. Yon
the vapouring of bad actors s1q>plies headland is Trafalgar. Tarifa juts out
the place of dramatic interest, and the before us, and the plains of Salado,
plot is perpetually interrupted by - where the Cross triumphed over the
scene-shifting, paltry coups de thédlre, .I Crescent. The white walls of Tangiers
and an occasional explosion of mus-i glitter on" the opposite coast, resting,
ketry and blue lights, with much smoke l, like a snow-wreath, on dark moun
(of cigaritos). tains: behind them lies the desert,
A mile inland is the Laguna dc the den of the wild beast and of
Jzmda. Near this lake, Taric, landing wilder man. The separated continents
from Africa, April 30, 711, encountered ; stand_aloof, frowning sternly on each
Roderick, the last of the Goths. Here ‘ other with the cold injurious look of
.the action commenced, July 19, which altered kindness. They were once
was decided July 26, on the Guadalete, united; “ a dreary sea now flows be
near Xerez. This one battle gave, tween,” and severs them for ever. A
Spain to the Moslem; the secret of , thousand ships hurry through, laden
whose easy conquest lay in the civil with the commerce of _the world: every
dissensions among the Goths, and the sail is strained to fly past those waters,
aid tl1e’invaders obtained from the deeper than ever plummet sounded,
monied Jews, W110 were persecuted by , where neither sea nor land are friendly
the Gothic clergy. Taric and Musa, to the stranger. Beyond that point
the two victorious generals, received is the bay of Gibraltar, and on that
from the caliph of Damascus that re- 3 gray rock, the object of a hundred
ward which since has become a stand- ‘ fights, and bristling with twice ten hun
ing example to jealous Spanish rulers ; dred cannon, the red flag of England,
they were recalled, disgraced, and died 1 on which the sun never sets, still braves
in obscurity. Such was the fate of the battle and the breeze. Far in the
Columbus, Cortes, the Great Captain, distance the blue Mediterranean
Spinola, and others who have con stretches itself away like a sleeping lake.
quered kingdoms for Spain. ‘ Europe and Africa recede gently from
At the Va. de Taibilla the track, each other; coast, cape, and mountain,
branches; that to the l. leads to the, face, form, and nature, how alike I Man,
Trocha, while a picturesque gorge to his laws, works, and creeds, how dif
the rt., studded with fragments of ferent and opposed !
former Moorish bridges and causeways, It is geologically certain that the
leads to the sea-shore. At the tower two continents were once united by a
La Peiia del Ciervo, the Highar Eggél dip or valley, as is proved by the vari
of the Moors, the coast opens in all ations of soundings The “ wonder
its grandeur. working” Hercules e. the Phoeni
" Where Mam-itania‘s giant shadows frovm, cians) is said to have cut a canal
From mountain-cliffs descending sombre between them. The Moors had a.
down." tradition that this was the work of
And here let the wearied traveller Alexander the Great (Ishkhander), who
repose a moment and gaze on the mag built a bridge across the opening, then
mficent panorama! Africa, no land very narrow; it gradually widened un
.Andalucz'a.' ROUTE 2-—rnn MEDITERRANEAN. 149
til all further increase was stopped by Moors never recovered the blow. , The
the high lands on each side. On these accounts of an eye-witness are worthy
matters consult Pliny, ‘N. H.’ 3, of Froissart (see Chron. de Alonso XI.,
and the authorities cited in our paper, ch. 248, 254). Cannon made at Da
Quar. Rev. cxxvi. 293. mascus were used here, for the first
The Moors called the Mediterranean time in Europe, as is said by Conde,
tl1e White Sea,,Bahr elA.biad, and Bahr 133. According to Mariana (xvi. 7)
Rum, the Roman Sea; they termed 25,000 Spanish infantry and 14,000
this Es-trecho, this Strait, which our horse now defeated 400,000 Moors and
tars have vulgarised into the “ Gut,” 70,000 cavalry. The Christians only
Bab-ez-zakak, the “ gate of the narrow lost 20 men, the infidels 200,000. Such
passage.” The length of the straits bulletins are to be ranked with those
from Cape Spartel to Ceuta in Africa, of Livy or Buonaparte’s “military
and from Trafalgar to Europa Point romances.” These multitudes could
in Spain, is about 12 L. The W. en never have been packed away in such a
trance is about 8 L. across, the E. about limited space, much less fed. To count
5 L. ; the narrowest point is at Tarifia, is a modern practice—the ancient and
about 12 m. A constant current sets “bulletin” mode was to guess num
in from the Atlantic at the rate of bers, and to augment or diminish as
2% m. per hour, and is perceptible 150 suited best.
in. down to the Oabo de Gata; hence Tamra, Pop. 9,000, the most Moor
it is very difiicult to beat out in a ish town of Andalucia——that Berlre/ria
N.W. wind. Some have supposed the Cristirma--vvas the ancient Punic city
existence of an under current of denser called Josa, which Bochart (Can. i. 477)
water, which sets outwards and relieves ' translates the “Passage ; ” an appro
the Mediterranean from this accession priate name for this, the narrowest I
of water, in addition to all the rivers point of the straits: the Romans re
from the Ebro to the Nile in a coast tained this signification in their Julia
circuit of 41500 L. Dr. Halley, however,Tmducta .- the Moors called it after
has calculated that the quantity evapo Taz-if Ibn Malik, a Berber chief, the first
rated by the sun, and licked up by to land in Spain, and quite a distinctper
hot drying winds, is greater than the son from Taric. Tarifa bears for arms
supply, and certainly the Mediterranean its castle on waves, with a key at the
has receded on the E. coast of the window; and the motto, “ Sedfuertes
Peninsula. The absorption on a surface en la guerra,” be gallant in fight. Like
of 1,14-9,287 square statute miles, by Calais, it was once a frontier key of
Halley’s rule, would amount to 7966 t importance. Sancho cl Bravo
million tons a day; yet, on the whole, took it in 1292, when Alonso Perez
the level of the Mediterranean remains de Guzman, as all others declined,
unchanged, for Nature’s exquisite sys oflered to hold this post of danger fora
tem of compensation knows no waste. year. The Moors beleaguered it, aided
Between La Pefia del Ciervo and . by the Infante Juan, a traitor brother
Tarifa lies a plain often steeped in of Sancho’s, to whom Alonso’s eldest
blood, and now watered by the brackish son, aged 9, had been entrusted pre
Salado. Here Walia, in 417, defeated viously as a page. Juan now brought
the Vandali Silingi and drove them into the boy under the walls, and threatened
Africa; here the chivalrous Alonso XI. to kill him if his father would not
(Oct. 28, 1340) overthrew the united surrender the place. Alonso drew his
forces of Yusuf 1., Abu-l-hajaj, King of dagger and threw it down, exclaiming,
Granada, and of Abu-l-hassan, King of “ I prefer honour without a son, to a
Fez, who made a desperate and last son with dishonour.” He retired, and
attempt to reinvade and reeonquer, the Prince caused the child to be put to
Spain. This victory paved the way for ‘ death. A cry of horror ran through the
the final triumph of the Cross, as the Spanish battlements: Alonso rushed
150 ROUTE 2.—~TARIFA--LAS ranirsfms. Sect. II.
forth, beheld his son’s body, and re- ‘ that make kerchiefs u pon the head of
turning to his childless mother, calmly every stature to hunt so .” Next in
observed, “ I feared that the infidel had danger to these tapadas were the bulls,
gained the city.” Sancho the King which used to be let loose in the streets,
likened him to Abraham, from this to the delight of the people at the win
parental sacrifice, and honoured him dows, and hon-or of those who met the
with the “ eanting ” name “ ElBueno,” uneivil quadruped in the narrow lanes.
The Good (Guzman, Gutman, Good The crumbling walls of Tarifa might
man). He became the founder of the be battered with its oranges, which al
princely Dukes of Medina Sidonia, now though the smallest, are beyond com
merged by marriage in the Villafraneas. parison the sweetest in Spain, but de
On this spot the recording ballads in fended by brave men, they have defied
Duran, v. 203, will best be read. the ball and bomb. Soult, taught by
Tar1_'f'a,nearly quadra , contains Barrosa the importance of this landing
some 12,000 inhab. ; the narrow and place, was anxious to take it, and had
tortuous streets are enclosed by Moorish he done so, must soon have been master
walls. The Alameda runs under the of all Andalucia, Gibraltar excepted.
S. range between the town and the sea : Gen. Campbell, in defiance of higher
the Alcazar, a genuine Moorish castle, authorities, most wisely determined to
lies to the E., just within the walls, garrison it, and sent 1000 men of the
and is now tl1e_abode of galley slaves. 47th and 87th, under Col.Skerrett : 600
The window from whence Guzman Spaniards under Copous were added.
threw the dagger has been bricked up, Skerrett, brave but always unfortunate,
but may be known by its border of despaired ; but Charles Felix Smith of
(1-:ule;;'os ,- the site of the child’s murder the Engineers was skilful, and Ool.,
is marked by a more modern tower now Lord Gongh, a resolute soldier.
called La Torre de Guzman. The Victor and Laval, Dec. 20, 181], in
“Lions” of Tarifa are the women, or vested the place with 10,000 men ;
lax Taaafefias, who are proverbial for between the 27th and 30th a practi
gracia y meneo. They continue to cable breach was made near the Retire
wear the mantilla as the Arabs do the gate; then the Spaniards under Copons,
boorko, and after the present Egyptian who were ordered to be there to defend
fashion of the tob and Hhabarah, in it, were not there —they, however, sur
- which only one eye is discovered ; that vived to claim all the glory (Madoz,
however is generally a piercer, and as it xiv. 609; Nap. 6); but Gough in
peeps out from the sable veil like a star, a good hour came up with his 87th,
beauty is concentrated into one focus the “Eagle-catchers,” and, with 500
of light and meaning. These tapadas, men, beat back 1800 picked Frenchmen
being all dressed alike walk about as in a manner “ surpassing all praise,”
at a masquerade, most eifeetually con and has lived to conquer China and
cealed, insomuch that husbands have Gwalior. Victor, Victus as usual, re
actually been detected making love to treated silently in the night, leaving
their own wives by mistake. These behind all his artillery and stores. This
Parthian assassin-glances have fur great glory and that astounding failure
nished jokes abundant to the wits of were such as even the Duke had not
Spain. Quevedo compares these rifle ventured to calculate on: he had dis
women to the abadejo, which means approved of the defence, because, al
both a water-wagtail and the Spanish though “ we have aright to expect that
fly; and thus combines the meneo and our oflicers and troops will perform
the stimulant. Such, doubtless, was their duty on every occasion, we had no
the mode of Wearing the mantilla right to expect that comparatively a
among the Phoenician eoquettes. small number would be able to hold
“ Woe,” says Ezekiel (xiii. 18), who Tarifa, commanded as it is at short
knew Tyre so well, “ Woe to the women distances, and enfiladed in every direc
Azzdulzicia. ROUTE 2.—TARIFA-—THE SIEGE. 151
tion, and unprovided with artillery, 5, 1813), and not “ even treated as a
_ and the Walls scarcely cannon-proof. gentleman.” “There are limits, how
The enemy, however, retired_with dis ever,” as even he said, “to forbearance.”
grace, infinitely to the honour of the Tarifa, indeed, is destined by the Spa
brave troops who defended Tarifa ” niards to counterbalance the loss of the
(Disp., Feb. 1, 1812). The vicinity of Rock. This fortress is being built out
Trafalgar, and the recollection of Nel of a tax levied on persons and things
son’s blue jackets, urged every red coat passing from Spain into Gibraltar :
to do that day more than his duty. thus the English are made to pay for
Now-a-days the Tamfefios claim all the their own annoyance. Tarifa, in war
glory, nor do the Paez Mellados and time, swarmed with gun-boats and
Co. even mention the English : so privateers. “ They,” says Southey,
Skerrett was praised by Lord Liverpool, “inflicted greater loss on the trade of
and Campbell reprimanded ; sic vos Great Britain than all the fleets of the
non vobis! The English not only de enemy, by cutting off ships becalmed
fended but repaired the breach. Their in these capricious waters.” A frigate
masonry is good, and their inscription, steamer at Gibraltar will soon abate
if not classical, at least tells the truth: that nuisance. Those who wish to
“ Hanc partem muri a Gallis obsiden examine Guzman Castle, or to draw it,
tibus dirutam, Britanni defensores con may as well obtain the governor’s per
struxerunt,,1812.” In 1823, when no mission, since the vicinity of Gibraltar,
87th was left to assist these heroic which has been made the hot-bed of
Tamfeflos, the French, under the puny revolutionists of all kinds, from Torri
Angouléme, attacked and took the place jos downwards, has rendered every
instantly : the inference is conclusive. Spanish garrison near it almost as sen
The real strength of Tarifa consists sitive as the Phoenicians, who wel
in the rocky island which projects into comed every stranger who pried about
the sea, on which a fortress has long the straits by throwinghim into the sea.
been building. There is a good light The Spaniards in ofiice are apt to have
house, 135 ft. high, visible for 10 L., a delirium tremens when they see the
and a small sheltered bay. This castle man of the pencil and note-book: they
commands the straits under some cir instantly suspect that he is making a
cumstances, when ships are obliged to plan to take the castle.
pass within the range of the batteries, The ride to Algeciras over the moun
and if they do not hoist colours are at ' tain is glorious; the views are splendid.
once fired into, especially those coming The wild forest, through which the
from Gibraltar. They fire even into Guadalmacil boils and leaps, is worthy
our men of war: thus, in Nov. 1830, of Salvator Rosa. Gibraltar and its
the “Windsor Castle,” a 74, taking bmutiful bay are seen through the
home the 43rd, was hulled without leafy vistas, and the bleeding branches '
any previous notice. The “VVindsor of the stripped cork-trees, fringed with
Castle,” like a lion yelpt at by a cur, a most delicate fern: the grand Rock
did not condescend to sweep the Tarifa crouches a' guise dc Leon cuando sa
castle from the face of the earth, yet posa. How imposing this mountain
such is the only means of obtaining i< mass ere the sun has risen frombeliind!
redress: none is ever given at Madrid. “Poussin,” say the French, “ could
England is nowhere treated more con not paint it; Chateaubriand could
tumeliously than by Spain and Por not describe it;” or M. Joinville take
.tugal, the two weakest and most un it. This is indeed the sentinel and inas
grateful governments in Europe, and ter of the Mediterranean, the “ Great
saved by her alone from being mere Sea” of the Bible, the bond of nations,
French provinces. . The Duke, even the central cradle of civilisation; and
while in the act of delivering them, was different indeed would have been the
entirely without any influence (G“- Sept. world’s condition,had this expansebeen
152 noon: 2.--ALGECIRAS. Sect. ]I.
a desert sand; and happy the eye and Algeciras, pop. 11,000, has risen like a.
the
sightmoment
of this most
when classic
any catch
sea, their
to behold
first L Phoenix, having been rebuilt in 1,760
by Charles IIl., to be a hornets’ nest
whose shores was truly, as Dr. J ohn- 1 against Gibraltar, and such it is,
son said, the grand end of travelling. swarming with privateers in war-time,
These are the waters on which com-~ and with guarcla cosias or preventive
merce first waited with white-wingedl service cutters in peace. What a con
sails all the art and science that raises ‘ trast from old Moorish Tarifa; in a.
us above the savage. How grand the m0rning’s ride we jump from one
age ofthey
deeds history
havethat records the
witnessed! beau- i‘ age and people to another. The hand
howmighty
some plaza has a fountain erected by
tiful in picture and poetry this blue‘ Castafios, who was governor here in
and deepest
the sunlit ultramarine,
sea! The general
with acolour is 1 1808, when the war of independence
singular
broke out. He, as usual, was without
phosphorescent luminosity produced‘ arms or money, and utterly unable to
by the myriads of infusoria: a green‘ move, until the English merchants of
tint indicates soundings, and a deepi Gibraltar advanced the means ; he then
indigo blue, profound depth. marched to Bailen, where the incapa
Algeciras lies in a pleasant nook. city of Dupont thrust greatness on him.
‘Inns: Fonda Frtmcesa near the beach. ‘ 'l‘he artist should sketch Gibraltar
' Fonda dc Esp aim. This, the Portus from near the aqueduct and Molina
Albus of the Romans, was the green de San Bernardirm. The walk to the
island of the Moors, Jeziratu-l-Kha water-falls is picturesque, the cork
dra; an epithet still preserved in the trees grand, the picknicks pleasant.
name of the island opposite, La Isla Between Algeciras and Tarifa, June
Verde, also called de las Palomas. 9, 1801, the gallant Saumarez attacked
The King of Spain is also King of the combined French and Spanish
Algeciras, a remnant of its former im fleets under Linois; the enemy con
portance, it being the Moors’ key of sisted of 10 sail, the English of 6. The
Spain. It was taken by the gallant “ Superb,” a 74, commanded by Capt.
Alonso XL, March 24, 1344, after a Richard Keats, out-sailed the squadron,
siege of 20 months, at which foreign and alone engaged the foe, taking the
crusaders from all Christendom at “ $t. Antoine,” a French 74, and burn
tended, who no doubt did the best ing the “ Real Carlos ” and “ San Her
of the work, for the benefit and glory rnenigildo,” two Spanish three-deckers
of .1V0.&'0ir0.?. It was the siege of the of 112 guns each. Keats had slipped
age, and 40 years afterwards Chaucer, between them, and then out again,
describing a true knight, mentions his leaving them in mistake from the dark
having been at “ Algecir ”—a Waterloo, ness to fire at and destroy each other.
a Trafalgar man. Our chivalrous Ed Algeciras is the naval and military
ward III. contemplated coming in per position from whence Gibraltar is
son to assistAlonsoXI.,a monarch after watched and worried, for theforeigner’:
his own heart. The ckronica de Alonso possession of that angulus rankles
.YI. gives the Froissart details, the gal- ‘ deeply, as well it may. In the tens»
lant behaviour of the English under cious memory of Spain, which never
the Earls of Derby and Salisbury forgives or forgets, it is hardly yet
(Chr. 301), the selfish misconduct of a fait accompli. During summer, the
the French under Gaston de Foix, who cool stone-houses of Algeciras are in
kept aloof at the critical moment (Chr. finitely better suited to the climate,
311). The want of every thing in the than the stuffy dwellings on the arid
Qastilian camp was terrific: cosas cle rock; and here the foreign steamers
_Espa,7a. Alonso destroyed the Moor touch, which ply backwards and for
1sh town and fortifications. wards between Cadiz and Marseilles.
Modern rectangular common-place The distance to Gibraltar is about
Andalucia. ROUTE 3—CAR'1‘EIA. l53
5 m. across by sea, and 10 round by ‘as after Trafalgar, buifeted victors and
land. The coast-road is intersected by ‘vanquished (Florus, iv. 2).
the rivers Guadaranque and Palmones :
on crossing the former, on the eminence
El Rocadillo, now a farm, the‘ corn ROUTE 3.~—-CADIZ T0 SEVILLE BY
grows where once Carteia flourished. STEAM.
This was the Phoenician Melcarth (Me While waiting for the completion of
lech Ksrtha), King’s-town, the city of a railway there are several ways of
Hercules, the type, symbol, and per getting to Seville; first, by land, in
sonification of the navigation, coloniza the diligence, through Xerez; secondly,
tion, and civilization of Tyre : the by water, by steamers up the Guadal
Phcenicians, be it remembered, called Quivir ; and thirdly, by a combination
it Tartessus, Heracleon. Humboldt, of land and water.
however, reads in the Oar the Iberian Those who prefer the land, may take
prefix of height. This was afterwards the diligence to San Ducar, which it
among the earliest and one of the few reaches, having passed through the Isla
Greek settlements tolerated in Spain and made the circuit of the bay there,
by their deadly rivals of Tyre. a route interesting only to crab-fanciers
Carteia was sacked by Scipio Africa and salt-refiners. The country, vege
nus, and given (171 13.0.) to the illegiti tation, and climate are tropical. Be
mate children of Roman soldiers by tween the Puerto and San Lucar the
Spanish mothers (Livy xliii. 3). Here traveller will remember the Oriental
the younger Pompey fled, wounded, ploughings of Elijah, when he sees 20
after his defeat of Munda, whereupon and more yoke of oxen labouring in
the Carteians, his former partisans, at the same field (1 Kings, xix. 19).
once proposed giving him up to Caesar: San Imcam de Barrameda, Lueiferi
they have had their reward; and the Fanum, rises amid a treeless, sandy,
fisherman spreads his nets, the punish undulating country, on the l. bank of
ment of Tyre, on her false, fleeting, the Guadalquivir. White and glitter
and perjured daughter. The remains ing, it is an ill-paved, dull, decaying
of an amphitheatre, and the circuit of place; pop. 16,000. Inn, Fonda del
walls about 2 miles, may yet be traced. Comercio ,- the best café is El Oro, on
The Moors and Spaniards have alike the Plazuela. This town, taken from
destroyed the ruins, working them up the Moors in 1264, was granted by
as a quarry in building Algeciras and Sancho cl Bravo, to Guzman el Bueno.
San Roque. The coins found here are The importance of the transatlantic
very beautiful and numerous (see Flo trade induced Philip IV., in 1645, to
rez,Med. i. 293). Mr. Kent, of the port resume the city, and make it the
oflice at Gibraltar, formed a Carteian residence of the captain-general of
museum, consisting of medals, pottery, Andalucia. Visit the ancient English
glass, &c. Consult, for ancient au Hospital of St. George, founded in
thorities, Ukert (i. 2. 346), and ‘A 1517 by Henry VIII. for English
Discourse on Carteia,’ John Conduit, sailors. Godoy, in 1799, sold the pro
4t0., London, 1719; and the excellent perty, and promised to pay interest on
‘Journey from Gibraltar to Malaya,’ the proceeds. In 1854 the unpaid
Francis Carter, 2 vols., London, 1777. ‘capital and arrears due from the go
From El Rocadillo to Gibraltar is ‘vernment amounted to 2400l. From
about 4 m. through the Spanish lines. :San Lucar Fernando Magalheans em
The whole ride from Tarifa took us lbarked, Aug. 10, 1519, on the first cir
about 10 h. icumnavigation of the world: the Vic
Midway towards Abyla the great toria was the only ship which returned
sea-fight took place between Luelius ,'Sept. 8, 1522, Fernando having been
and Adherbal (Livy xxiii. 30), and killed, like Capt. Cook, by some savages
again between Didius and Varus, and in the Philippine Islands. San Lucar
that fearful subsequent storm which, exists by its wine-trade, and, is the
I
154 nours 3.-—SAN LUCAR—MANZANILLA WINE. Sect. II.
mart of the inferior and adulterated view over the flat marisma, with its
vintages which are foisted oil’ in Eng agues and fevers, swamps and shifting
land as sherries. Nota bene, here, at. sands, arenas voladeras, is truly desert
least, drink manzanilla, however much like, and a fit home of birds and beasts
it may be eschewed in England, which of prey, hawks, stoats, robbers, and
being, fortunately, not a wine growing: custom-house oflicers. M. Fenelon, in
country, import-s the very best of all his ‘Télémaque’ (lib. viii.), describes
others, leaving the inferior for native these localities as the Elysian Fields,
consumption. The name describes its and peoples the happy valleys with
peculiar light camomile flavour, which patriarchs and respectable burgesses.
is the true derivation, for it has no For the journey by water, the de
thing to do with manzana, an apple, partures and particulars of the steamers
and still less with the town Manzanilla to Seville, are advertised in the Cadiz
on the opposite side of the rircr. It is i gatpers and placarded in all the posadas.
of a delicate pale straw colour, and is ‘ er crossing La Bahia the Guadal
extremely wholesome; it strengthens quivir is en near Cipiona Point.
the stomach, without heating or ine Here was the great Phoenician light
briating; hence the Anclalucians are house called Cap Eon, the “ Rock of
passionately fond of it. Excellent the Sun.” This the vain-glorious
manzanilla is to be procured in Lon Greeks, who never condeseendcd to
don, of German, 16, Mark Lane. learn the language of other people,
Drink it, ye dyspeptics! “ barbarians,” converted into the Tower
The climate of San Lucar is ex Of C8pl0, 1'00 Kn-inane; wt/g'yo;, l7l16 “ C8
tremely hot: here was established, in pionis Turris” of the Romans. Those
1806, the botanical Garden dc Aclima who wish to avoid the rounding this
tacion, in order to acclimatize South point by sea may cross over to the
figierican and African animals and Puerto, and take acalesa to San I/ucar,
nts: it was arranged by Boutelou and there rejoin the steamer. Seville is
and Rojas Clemente, two able gar distant about 80 m. The voyage is per
deners and naturalists, and was in high formed in 7 to 8 hours, and in less
order in 1808, when the downfall of when returning down stream. Fare, '
Godoy, the founder, entailed its de first cabin, 3 dollars; there is a good
struction. The populace rushed in, restaurant on board.
killed the animals, tore up the plants, La Puebla . 14} L.
and pulled down the buildings, because ' Coria . 2
the work of a hated individual. But Gelbes . . . . . 4
San Juan de Alfsrache 4»
at all times Spanish, like Oriental ven
geance is blind even to its own interests, The smoke of the steamer and actual
and retaliates against persons and their inspection of the localities discharge
works even when of public utility. the poetry and illusion of the far-famed
San Lucar is no longer the point of and much overrated Guadalquivir of
embarkation, which is now about a mile . classical and modern romance. “ Thou
up the river at Bonanza, so called from Baatis,” sing the native poets, “ crowned
a liermitage, .Z/um,’/‘en’ fanum, erected with flowers and olives, and girdled by
by the South American Company at beauteous nymphs, wafisest thy liquid
Seville to Na. Sc. de Bonanza, or our crystal to the west, in a placid amorous
Lady of fine weather, as the ancients current.” Spaniards seldom spare fine
did to Venus. Here is established an 5 words, when speaking of themselves or
aduana, where luggage is examined. their country; and this pellucid river,
The district between Bonanza and San in sober reality and prose, is here dull
Lucar is called Algaida, an Arabic and dirty as the Thames at Slleerncss,
word meaning a deserted waste, and and its “Elysian Fields” are as unpic
such truly it is : the sandy hillocks are turesque as those at Paris or our “ Isle
clothed with aromatic brushwood, of Dogs.” The turbid stream slowly
dreary pines, and wild grapes. The eats its way through an alluvial level,
Andalucia. . ROUTE 3.—TnE GUADALQUIVIR. 1 55
given up to herds of cattle and aquatic talking for the last 300 years of im
fowls: nothing can be more dreary: proving the navigation, see Las obras
no white sails enliven the silent waters, l del Maestro Perez Fernan de Oliva,
no villages cheer the desert steppes ; ltto, Cordova, 1586, p. 131 ; and in
here and there a choza or hut oifers a 1820 a new company-—conservators of
poor refuge from the red hot sun. In the 1-iver—was formed for the purpose,
this riverain tract, called La Maris-ma, and a tax laid on the tonnage of ship
swamps, ague, and fever are perpetual. ping, which has been duly levied, al
In these plains, favourable to animal though not much more has been done
and vegetable life, fatal to man, the beyond jobbing: meantime the bed is
miserable peasantry, like those on the filling, the banks falling in, with no side
Pontine marshes, look yellow skeletons canal, norailroad, to supply the want and
when compared to their fat kine. Here . shorten the line of this tortuous river.
in the glare of summer a mirage mocks The river below Seville has branched
the thirsty sportsman. This Sa/rab or oil‘, forming two unequal islands, La
vapour of the desert with its optical Isla Mayor and Manor. The former
deeeptions of atmospheric refractions the Kaptal of the Moors, and Captel of
is indeed the trick of fairies, a Fata old Spanish books, has been cultivated
Morgana, and well may the Arabs tenn with cotton by the company, who also
it Moyet-Eblis, the Devil’s water. On cut a canal through the Isla Manor,
the r. hand, in the distance, rise the ‘ called La Cortarlu/ra, by which 3 L. of
mountains of Ronda. The Guadal winding river are saved. Foreign ves
quivir, the “great river,” the Waida=l sels are generally moored here, and their
Kebir or Wzida-Z-adhem of the Moors, cargoes are conveyed up and down in
traverses Andalucia from E. to W. The barges, whereby smuggling is vastly fa
Zincali, or Spanish gipsies, also call it cilitated. At Ooria, iamous under the
Len Baro, the “ great river.” The Ibe Romans for bricks and pottery, are
rian name was Certis (Livy xxviii. 16), still made the enormous earthenware
which the Romans changed into Baatis, jars in which oil and olives are kept‘:
a word, according to Santa Teresa, who these tinajas are the precise amphorzz
understood 1J11l{I1OWIl tongues, derived of the ancients, and remind one of
from Bseth, “blessedness ;” but the Morgiana and the Forty Thieves. The
Generalissima of Spain had revelations river next winds under the Moorish
which were denied to ordinary mortals, Hisnu-l-faraj, or the “ Castle of the
to geographers like Rennell, or to phi Cleft,” or of the prospect “al Faradge,”
lologists like Humboldt and Bochart, now called San Juan de Alfa/1-ache ,
who suspects (Can. i. 34) the etymology and then turns to the r., and skirting
to be the Punic Lelzitsin, the lakes or the pleasant public walk stops near the
swamps of the Bzetis termination, Tor-re del Ora, gilded with the setting
whence the I/ibystino lacu of Fest. sun, and darkened by Aduaneros, who
Avienus (Or. Mar. 289). The river , worry passengers and portmanteaus.
rises in La Mancha, about 10 L. N. of
Almaraz, flows down, and at Ecija
receives the G-enil and the waters of Rooms 4.—Ca1>1z TO SEVILLE BY
the basin of Granada: other numerous LAND.
aflluents come down from the mountain San Fernando . . 2}
valleys on each side. Under the An Pnerto Real. . . . 2 4'}
Puerto de Se. Marin . 2 6%
cients and Moors, navigable to Cor Xerez . . . . 2 .. Si
dova, it formed a portavena to that Va. del Cuervo . . 3+ .. 12
district, which overflows with oil, corn, Fa. de la Vizcaina . . 1 .. 13
Torres de Alocaz . . 21} .. 151'
and wine. Under the Spanish mis Utrera . . . . 34* .. 19
government these advantages were lost, Aloahi de Guadaira. 2 21
and now small craft alone reach Seville, Sevi1la.. ...2.:23
and with difliculty. They have been This is a portion of the high road from
l56 ROUTE 4.—xaiu~:z ms LA rnosraaa. Sect. I1.
Cadiz to Madrid; the whole distance? by many to have been the ancient
is 108} L. There is some talk of a Asta regia Cznsariana, some mutilated
railroad, to be made and paid for by sculpture exists in the Calla de Biz
Englishmen, butfestina lente is a Spa coclleros and Calla de los Idolos, for
uish axiom, where people are slow to the Xeresanos call the old graven
begin and never finish. The journey is images of the Pagans idols, while they
uninteresting, and sometimes danger bow down to new sagradas imagenes
ous: leavingXerez the lonely road across in their own churches. Part of the
the plains skirts the spurs of the Ronda original walls and gates remain in the
mountains, sometimes the lair of mala, old town: the suburbs are more regu
gente, Moron being generally their lar, and here the wealthy wine-mer
head-quarters, for smuggling and the chants reside. Xerez was taken from
intricate country favour these wild the Moors, in 1264, by Alonso el Sabio,
weeds of the rank soil. the Learned. The Moorish alcazar,
The best plan of route from Cadiz which is near the public walk, is well
to Seville, is to cross over to the Puerto preserved, and offers a good specimen
by steam and take a calesa to Xerez, of these turreted and walled palatial
paying 1 dollar; although the road is i fortresses. It belongs to the Duque de
ilidilferent the drive is pleasant, and‘ San Lorenzo, on the condition that he
the view from the intervening ridge, cedes it to the king whenever he is at
La buena vista, is worthy of its name : Xerez. The Casa de Riqnelmes, with
the glorious panorama of the bay of its torre de Homenaje, may also be
Cadiz is a perfect belnedere. There is visited. Observe the Berruguete facade
a decent posada at this half-way rest of the Oasas de Cabildo, erected in
ing-place. From Xerez drive in a ca 1575. Notice the facade of the churches
lesa to Bonanza, about 3 L. of weari of Santiago and San Miguel, especially
some road, and there rejoin the steamer. the Gothic details of the latter. The
The best Posada at Xerez is of San‘ Oolegiata, begun in 1695, is vile chur
Dionisio on the Plaza La Consolacion. rigueresque ; the architect did not by
F. Travies0—3, Calle de la Lenzeria. accident stumble on one sound rule, or
The great hospitable wine-merchants deviate into the commonest sense: but
seldom, however, permit any one who the wines of Jerez are in better taste
comes with an introduction “to take. than the temples, and now-a-days more
his ease in mine own inn.” go to the cellar than to the church.
Xerez de la Frontera, or Jerez-—for ‘ The vinous city has a few books and
now it is the fashion to spell all those 1 coins. The legends and antiquities of
Moorish or German guttural words, Xerez are [described in Los Santos de
where an X or G is prefixed to an open Xerez, Martin de Roa, 4t0., Seville,
vowel, with a J : e. g., Jimenez for? 1671; and there is a new history by
Ximenez, Jorge for George, &c.—is Adolfo de Castro. Xerez was renowned
called of the frontier, to distinguish it for its Major, who were considered,
from Jerez (le Zos Caballeros, in Estre however, of a. low caste, may-cruos,
madura. It was termed by the Moors crndos, raw, when compared to the
Skerish Filistin, because allotted to a» Majo fino, the may cocio-cocido, the
tribe of Philistines. The new settlers boiled, the well-done one of Seville
from the East, preserved alike the names | phrases as old as Martial. The Majo
of their old homes, and their hatred of Xerezano was seen in all his flash
neighbours. Jerez, pop. 34,000, risesi glory at the much frequented fairs of
amid vine-clad slopes, studded with, May 1 and Aug. 15; but picturesque
coriijos y haciendas, with its white nationalities are giving place to the
washed Moorish towers, blue-do1ned' common-place coats and calicos of civi
Colegiata, and huge Bodegas, or wine lization. He is a great bull-fighter,
stores, looking
men-of-war like pent-houses
at Chatham. for and a fine new Plaza has recently been
Supposed;
built here. His reguiebros are, how
Andalucia. ROUTE .4.-—XER.EZ—SHERRY WINES. 157
ever, over-flavoured with sul Andaluga, are added, will stand the importer from
and his jaleos and jokes rather prac 100 to 130 guineas in his cellar. A
tical: Burlas de manos, burlas de butt will run from 108 to 112 gallons,
Xerezanos. The quantity of wine is and the duty is 5.9. Gd. per gallon. Such
supposed to make these valientes more a butt will bottle about 52 dozen.
boisterous and occasionally ferocious, The excellence of sherry wines is
than those of all other Andalucians: . owing to the extreme care and scientific
“ for all this oalou/r,” as Falstafl' says, methods introduced byforeigners, who
“comes of sherris.” They are great are chiefly French and Scotch. The
sportsmen, and the shooting in the great houses are Pedro Domecq, Pe
Illa/risma, especially of deer, bustards, martin, Gordon, Garvey, Isasi, Bermu
wild fowl, and woodcocks, is first-rate. dez, Beigbeder. A.Bode_ga, the Roman
Parties are made, who go for weeks to ' horrea, the wine-store or apotheca, is,
the Coto de Doiia Ana and del Rey. unlike our excavated cellars, always
The growth of wine amounts to above grolmd. The interior is deli
some 500,000 arrobas annually; this ,ciously cool and subdued, as the heat
Moorish name and measure contains a and glare outside are carefully excluded;
quarter of a hundred weight: 30 go to here thousands of butts are piled up
a bota or butt, of which some 34,000 during the rearing and maturing pro
are annually produced, running from cesses. Sherry, when perfect, is made
8000 to 10,000 really fine. This wine up from many different butts: the
was first known in England about the “entire” is in truth the result of
time of our Henry VII. It became Xerez grapes, but of many sorts and
popular under Elizabeth, when those varieties of flavour. Thus one barrel
who under Essex sacked Cadiz brought corrects another, by addition or sub
home the fashion of good “shcrris traction, until the proposed standard
sack.” It is still called seco here, aggregate is produced. All this is
which is the old English seclc, the managed by the Capataz or head man,
French sec, a word used in contradis who is usually a Montaaies from the
tinction to the sweet malvoisies. It was Asturian mountains, and often becomes
ousted by Madeira wine, but brought the real master of his nominal masters,
back into fashion by Lord Holland, whom he cheats, as well as the grower.
whose travels in Spain abroad, and He passes this life of probation in
table at home, gave him the right to tasting : he goes round the butts, mark
dictate in dinnering at least. Mean ing each according to its character, cor
while the bulk of good Spaniards recting and improving each at every
scarcely know sherry beyond its im successive visit.
mediate vicinity. It is, in fact, a The callida juncture ought to unite
foreign wine, and made and drunk by fulness of body, a nutty flavour and
foreigners; nor do Spaniards like its aroma, dryness, absence from acidity,
strength, and still less its high price. strength, spirituosity, and durability.
Thus, even at Granada, it is sold as a Little brandy is necessary: the vivi
liqueur. At Seville, in the best houses, ' fying power of the unstinted sun of
one glass only is, or in our time used Andalucia imparting suificient alcohol,
to be, handed round at dinner as the which ranges from 20 to 23 per cent.
golpe medico, or chasse, the m as ‘nar in fine sherries, and only 12 in clarets
class, Of
Ama; called “ T/“mo (l.
Athenseus seco,
20). e first andchampagnes. Fine, pure old sherry
fino, oloroso \ is of a rich brown colour. The new
y generoso,” is very dear, costing half raw wines are paler; in order to flatter
a dollar a bottle on the spot. Pure , the tastes of some English, “pale old
genuine sherry, from 10 to 12 years‘sherry" must be had, and the colour
old, is worth from 50 to 80 guineas 1 is chemically discharged at the expense
per butt, in the bodega; and when of the delicate aroma. The am0ntiZ
freight, insurance, duty, and charges I Zado is so called from a peculiar, bitter
158 nouns 4.—xsimz—wmas—'mr; canrum. Sect. II. I
almond, dry flavour, somewhat like the crack vineyard, and inspect the vinous
wines of Montilla, near Cordova: much buildings and contrivances. Many of
sought after, it is dear, and used in] the great growers have villas on their
enriching poorer and swectish wines.‘ vineyards, such as El Recreo, Valse
There is always a venerable butt that quillo, La Granga, &c.; this latter
contains some Madre vino, or rich wine, belongs to Mr. Domecq, whose vine
by which young butts are reared as: yard, Macharnudo, is the primest, and
by molhefs milk. The contents are: really the Johannisburg of Jerez ,- the
very precious, and the barrels named 1 Carrascal, Barbiana alta y baja, Los
after Ferdinands, Nelsons,Wellingtons, Tercios, Cruz del Husillo, Aiiina, San
kings and heroes. The visitor is just Julian, Mochiele, and Carraola, are
allowed a sip, by way of bonne bouehe. also deservedly celebrated.
The sweet wines of the sherry grape? No one should fail to visit the Oar
are delicious. The best are the Mos t-uju convent, which lies about 2 m. to
-cadel, the Pedro Ximenez, so called the E., although this once magnificent
from a German vine-grower, and the‘ pile is now desecrated. The finest of
Pajarete ,- this term has nothing to do the Zurbaran pictures have passed into
with the pajaros, or birds which pick y England, having been sold dog-cheap
the most luscious grapes, but simply} at the sales of Louis Philippe and Mr.
is the name of the village where it was -‘ Standish, in 1853 ; some few others,
first made. the refuse, are in the Museo at Cadiz.
Every traveller will of course pay This Carthusian monastery was founded
a visit to a great Bodega, the lion of in 1477 by Alvaro Obertos de Valeto,
Xerez and big as a cathedral, a true whose figure in armour was engraved
temple of Bacchus : those of P. Domecq in brass before the high altar: one
or Charles Gordon are the finest. The Andres de Ribera, in the time of
former gentleman has some pictures, Philip II., added the Doric Herrera
but his best gallery is that of butts of portal: the more modern facade is very
sherry. There the whole process of bad. This Cartuja was o11ce very rich
. making sherry will be explained. The in excellent vineyards, and possessed
lecture is long, and is illustrated by the celebrated breeding-grounds of An
experiments. Every cask is tasted, dalueian horses, to which the French
from the raw young wine to the ma dealt the first blow. The decree of
ture golden fiuid. Those who are not » suppression, in 1836, destroyed, at one
stupificd by drink come out much fell swoop, both monk and animal.
edified. From the result of many The establishments have been broken
courses of lectures, we recommend the up, and the system ruined. The loss
student to hold hard during the first of the horses will long be felt, when
samples, for the best wine is reserved that of the friars is forgotten. On the
for the last, the qualities ascending in Carthusian convents and monks of
a vinous climax. Perhaps the better Spain, consult Primer Institute de la
plan would be to reverse the order, and Sagrada Reltyion de la Ca/rtuja, Jo
begin with the best while the palate is seph de V_alles, 410., Mad., 1663.
fresh and the judgment sober. All the Below the Gartuja rolls the Guada
varieties of grape and soil are carefully lete.~ A small hill, called el real de
described in the Ensago sabre las cami Don Rodrigo, marks the head-quarters
edades cle la Vid en Andalucia, Simon of the last of the Goths : here the battle
Rojas Clemente, 4to., Mad., 1807; in was terminated which put an end to his
the Jllemorias sabre el Oultivo de la Vid, dynasty (see p. 148). Lower down is
Esteban Boutelou, 4to., Mad., 1807; el Portal, the port of Xerez, whence
see also our notices in the ‘ Quarterly the sherries were embarked for elPuerto
Review,’ cxxvi. 308; and in the ‘Ga before the railroad conveyed the butts
therings,’ eh. xiv. The student will to the very shipboard.
also do well to drive out and visit some The Guadalete, from the terminating
Arldalzzcia. aourn 4.-rm: RIVER or OBLIVION. s 159
syllables, has been connected, by those clean and fresh by running streams.
who prefer sound to sense, with the Formerly flourishing and very popu
Lethe of the ancients, which, however, lous, it fell into decay, but within 10
is the Limia, near Viana, in Portugal, years has been much improved by an
and obtained its oblivious reputation, silcalde named Cuadra. The Carmelite
because the Spanish army, tl1eir leader convent was turned into a prison, and
being killed, forgot on its banks the the Sn. Juan de Dios into a philhar
object of the campaign, and disbanded monic theatre. The Sa. Maria de la
most orientally each man to “his own Mesa has a good Berrugucte portal,
home.” Cosas de Espafla. called el Pardon, and a tomb of a Ponce
This Limsea, or Limia, was the fur de Leon, with an armed kneeling figure.
thest point to which Brutus advanced, There is a ruined castle. Utrera, in a
as his troops trembled, fearing that military point, is of much importance.
they should forget their absent wives. The high road from Madrid to Cadiz
Florus (ii. 17. 12) records this unmili makes an angle to reach Seville, which
tary fear. Strabo (iii. 229) observes can be avoided by marching from Ecija.
that some called the Limia Bfluivu, direct through Arahal. The saints of
which Casaubon happily amends oB>.m Utrera have long rivalled the bulls:
uu§va;, the Fluvius Oblivionis of Pliny, thus the Virgen de la Oonsolacion at
Mela, and Livy. The Gracco—Roman the Convento de Mmimos, outside the
name of the Gaudalcte was Chrysos, town, N.E., is the Palladium of the
and golden is the grape which grows ploughmen. Built in 1561, it used to
on its banks: it is that fluid, and not be frequented by thousands on the 8th
what flows between them, which erases of Sept., when a fair was held, and
their absent dames from the memories votive offerings made: now little more
of bad husbands. It is stated by Flo takes place than the sale of child.ren’s
rez (Esp. Sag. ix. 53) that the name toys ; nay, there is a scheme of turning
Chrysos was changed by the victorious the building into a madhouse. Tem
Moors into Wad-al-leded, El rio de pore. mutantur. Consult an especial
deleite, the river of delight; but this book on this “ Santuario ” by Rodrigo
is a very doubtful etymology, and the Caro, 8vo., Osuna, 1622. Consult Epi
Moorish name really was Wada-lekah. Zogo de Utrera, Pedro Roman Melendez,
A wild bridle-road through Arcos com 4-to., Sevilla, 1730. About 2 L. from
mimicates with Ronda. See p. 263. Utrera is a fine olive hacienda of the
The Camino real, on leaving Xerez, Conde de Torre Nueva, which is well
on one side skirts a waste called La managed ; at Morales 1 L. to l. are the
Llanura de Caulina; it is well pro ruins of a most ancient castle. There
vided with bridges, by which the many is a short bridle-road to Seville, by which
streams descending from the moun Alcalii is avoided and left to the rt.
tains to the rt. are crossed. The lonely Alcald de Guadaira, where the P0
expanse is truly Spanish, and in spring soda is very tidy, si gnifies the “ castle
teems with beautiful flowers, of which of the river A.i.ra,” and was the Punic
the botanist may fill a vasculum and a Hienippa, a “place of many springs.”
note-book. It is also called de los Panade-ros, “of
Utrera, Utricula, during the Moorish the bakers,” for it has long been the
struggle, was the refuge of the agricul oven of Seville: bread is the staff
turist who fled from the Spanish talas of its existence, and samples abound
and border forays, and is inhabited by everywhere ; Roscas, a. circular-formed
rich farmers, who rent the estates rusk, are hung up like garlands, and _
around, where much corn, oil, fruit, hogazas, loaves, placed on tables out
and wine is produced; here vast flocks side the houses. “Panis hic longe
arc bred, and those fierce bulls so re pulcherrimus; it is, indeed, as Spa
nowned in the Plaza. Pop. 11,000. niards say, Pan de .Dio.9—the “angels”
The streets and alamedas are kept bread of “Esdras." Spanish bread
160 nours 4.—ALc.iL5.-—sQU1~:I>ucr. Sect. II.
was cstocmed by the Romans for its’ following the slopes of the irregular
lightness (Plin. ‘N. H.’ xviii. 7). All ground. The gardens are all that Flora
classes here gain their bread by making 1 and Pomona can combine.
it, and the water-mills and mule-mills, i In the town observe the pictures in
or atahonas, are never still; they ex-1 Sam Sebastian by Fr°. Pacheco, father
ceed 200 in number: women and chil
dren are busy picking out earthy parti- i in-law to Velazquez, and also a “ Pur
gatory” by him in the church of San
cles from the grain which get mixed, tiago. In the convent de las monjas
from the common mode of threshing is a Retablo with six small bas-reliefs
on a floor in the open air—-the era, or by Montafies. The “ Sa. Clara receiv
Roman area. The corn is very care ‘ing the Sacrament” is the best; his
fully ground, and the flour passed small works are rare and beautiful.
through several hoppers in order to Alcahi, the “city of springs,” sup
secure its fineness. Visit a large bake plies temperate Seville both with bread
house, and observe the care with which and water, prison or Iberian fare. The
the dough is kneaded. It is worked; alembic hill is perforated with tunnels :
and re-worked, as is done by our biscuit some are 2 L. in length. The line
bakers: hence the close-grained caky =of these underground canals may be
consistency of the crumb. The bread, traced on the outsides of the hill by
is token into Seville early every morn the lumbreras, lodvres, or ventilators.
ing. Alcahi, pop. about 6000, is pro Do not fail to visit the Molirw de Ia
verbial for salubrity, and is much re- Mina, whence Pedro de Ponce Leon,
sorted to as a summer residence, and in 1681, took the title of marquis.
it always escapes the plagues which The excavations in the bowels of the
so often have desolated Seville; the rock are most picturesque, and no
air, freshened by the pure Ronda crystal can be clearer than the streams.
breezes, is rarefied by the many ovens, Some of these works are supposed to
of which there are more than 50. For be Roman, but the greater part are
local information consult the MGMOHGS = Moorish. The collected fluid is car
Historicas de Aleald, Leaudro Jose de ried to Seville by an aqueduct; the
Flores, duo, Sevilla, 1833-4. first portion is enclosed by a brick
The castle is one of the finest Moor cafie-ria. The Roman works were com
ish specimens in Spain, and was the pletely restored in 1172 by Jusuf Abu
land-key of Seville. It surrendered, -Iacub (Conde, ii. 380); but all was
Sept. 21, 124-6, to St. Ferdinand, the permitted, as usual, to go to decay
garrison having “fraie1'nised" with under the Spaniards: the coping was
Ibn-1-Ahmar, the petty king of Jaen, broken in, and the water became turbid
who was aiding the Christians against and unwholesome. In 1828, Don Jose
the Sevillians, for internal divisions Manuel dc Arjona, Asrlatente of Seville
and local hatreds have always been and its great improver, set apart about
causes of weakness to unamalgamating 40,000 dollars from a tax on meat, for
Spain. The Moorish city lay under 1 the restoration of~ this supply of vital
the castle, and no longer exists. A importance to an almost tropical city;
small mosque, now dedicated to San ‘ but this ready money was seized upon,
Miguel, on whose day the place was 1 in 1830, by the needy Madrid govern
taken, and made into a barraek by the l ment, and spent in putting down
French, is all that remains. Observe Z Mina’s rebellion after the three glorious
the tapia walls, the mazmorras, subter- '~ days at Paris. The aqueduct, on ap
ranean corn granaries, the cisterns, aZ- preaching Seville, is carried in on some
gibes, the inner keep, and the hu e d0n- 400 arches, called “ Cafios de Car
jon tower, la torre mocha (mota , built mona,” because running along the
by the Spaniards. The river below road leading to that city. The sports
makes a pretty sweep round the rocky man may walk with his gun over the
base, and long lines of walls run down, flats between Alcalzi and Seville to the
Andalucia. noun: 5.—XEREZ T0 SEVILLE. 161
1. of the high-road, which are full of ! risma leads to Lebrija, nicely placed on
snipes and wild-fowl in winter. a slight eminence, with a deeentposada.
The valley of the Guadaira above This is the ancient Nebrissa-Veneria,
Alcalé. should be visited by the artist, according to Pliny (‘ N. H.,’ iii. 1);
to see the Moorish mills and towers others read Venaria, and connect it
which Ir-iarte sketched, who, accord with the huntings of the Nimrod Bac
ing to Murillo, was fit to paint Para chus and his wines (Sil. Ital. iii. 393).
dise, so relative is praise. Iriarte, a Bochart derives the name from the
second-rate artist, was almost the only ‘Punic Nae-Pritza, a “land of over
landscape-painter Spain has produced. flowing,” to which these riverain flats
There, as among the ancients, land are subject. ‘Here was born the great
scape was used as a mere background _ grammarian and restorer of letters in
or accessory, and deemed beneath the Spain, Antonio Cala Jarana del Ojo,
dignity of art. Neither the Church< better known as Nebritsensis. Observe
nor the people were worshipers of La Mafiquita del Maranolejo, a head
Nature, or had any genuine percep less Roman statue, now christened the
tion of her charms. little marble Mary; notice the florid
_ Leaving Alcala, the noble causeway plateresque Retablo of the Par!-oquia,
winds gently round the hill, hanging once a mosque, with some of the ear
over the river. In the plains below, liest carvings in cedar and mahogany
amid orange and olive-groves, rise the of Alonso Cano, 1630-36, especially
sun-gilt towers of stately Seville. The the Virgin and Child, with all his mild
Moorish Giralda is pre-eminently the and melancholy grace, and the St.
emphatic point. To the r. of the road, Peter and St. Paul. Behind the church
about 2 miles from Seville, is the Mesa is a pretty orange planted cloister, with
del Rey, a square stone table on which a good crucifix by Montafies. Leaving
thebodies of criminals are quartered, “a Lebrija, the plains become more mono
pretty dish to set before a king;” this is tonous. Of Cabezas de San Juan, a
an Arabic custom,andsuch atableexists miserable hamlet, the proverb says, N0
at Cairo (Lane, i. 332). Next, we reach , se hace nadrz an el consqjo del reg, sin
La Cruz del Campo, placed in an open Cabezas. To judge by the results of
Moorish-looking temple, but erected in most of the councils of Madrid, the ca.
1482. It is also called el Humilladcro . binet has too often been selected from
here travellers used to kneel, and thank this wrong-headed village. It was one
the Virgin and Santiago for safe arrival of the first places which responded to
at their journey’s end, having escaped the cry of Riego, for which he was
the pains and perils of Spanish travel ; hanged, and so many others lost their
now both these dangers and their piety heads on the scaffold. Before arriving
.are much decreased; here the Esta at Los Palacios, is a long-ruined Ro
ciones (see p. 187)_ from the Casa de man and Moorish causeway, La alum
Pilatos terminate. tarilla (A1-abice, the little bridge),
The bridle-road from Xerez to Se raised on account of the inundations
ville is much shorter than the circuit above the level of _the Marisma, and
made by the diligence; it crosses the now half dilapidated. Lox Palacios
plains, but is scarcely carriageable ex are any thing now but palaces. The
cept in summer. common occurrence of the term de
notes either the past magnificence of
Spaniards, or their habit of calling
Roars 5.—,Xmz1-:z TO SEVILLE. their geese swans.
Lebrija . . . . . . 5
Cabezas de Sn. Juun . . 2 .. 7
A los Palacios . . . . 3 .. 10
Scvilla . . . . . . 4 .. 14
disappearing, having long served as a the figs, the best of whicharethe Lozio
(t_llill!ll'l:_V1 to the booiiiéh CtllltlVt2ll§OI‘B of‘ and P€Z(;l1\\ill(i1()1; fillerefigwvlsntéil
cricienvirons. ean ime ie mo- j'M7LCO, 0 w c e ne
(lest motto of the place is “Portus ester:/as‘,floor-mattings,a.remade. Aya
Maris ct terrw custodial" monie, Sonoba, Ostium Anne, was the
Huelva is 15 L. from Seville; the city whence the Roman military road
road is merely a. bridle one. The chief to Mcrida commenced. An island on
traliic is carried on by passage-boats, 5 the Guadiana is still called Tyro, and
which navigate the Guadalquivir. The vestiges of ruins may be traced. Popu
land route is as follows :— ' lation, nearly 5000. There are 2 par
lroquias and a ruined castle, and al
san J"‘*“ del P“°'w 2 though a frontier fortress it is in a most
N‘ bla . . . 2 4 . .
vifl,,m_,,, _ _ 2 6 4 Spanish and Oriental state of neglect,
La.Palnin. . . . 1 7 yet it calls itself the key and port of
gE‘::‘IZJ‘:::;:“,a-\,a3,or- - Z lg the Guadiana: the neighbouring pine
ge,-me _ 3 ‘I 16 ‘ forests provide timber tor building 'm1.8
§ tico: and coasting craft.
The country is uninteresting, a1- In the ninth century the Normans
though of extraordinary fertility in or Northmen made pi.ratical excursions
titheable oil, wine, fruit, and grain. on the WV. coast of Spain. They passed,
Niebla, accordingly, has 5 parish in 843, from Lisbon down to the straits,
churches, and had2convents, a decent and everywhere, as in France, over
spiritual supply for 580 inhab. Niebla, came the unprepared natives, plunder
thc ancient Ilipla, (Livy xxv. 1), lies , ing, burning, and destroying. They
between the rivers Villarasa and Bear, captured even Seville itself, Sept. 30,
and has a castle ruined by the French, 84.4, but were met by the Cordovese
and a most ancient but dilapidated ' Kalif, beaten and expelled. They were
bridge. It is the chief town of its called by the Moors Majus, Madjous,
county or condado, which formed a Magioges (Conde, i. 282), and by the
small principality under the Moors; early Spanish aunalists Almajuzes. The
here much bad wine is made, which is root has been erroneously derived fiom
sent to San Lucar, and converted for May“, Magus, magicians or superna
the English market into fine sherry, tural beings, as they were almost held
neat as imported, at only 36s.the dozen, to be. The term Madjous was, strictly
bottles included. Palm-a, with some speaking, applied by the Moors to
3500 souls, is equally dull, which, in- - those Berbers and Africans who were
deed, may be predicated throughout ‘ Pagans or Muwallads,i. e. not believers
this fat district, which a judicious tra- ‘ in the Koran. The true etymology is
veller will carefully avoid. that of the Gog and Magog so fre
Continuing R. vi., after leaving i quently mentioned by Ezekiel (xxxviii.
Huelva and crossing the Odiel is Lepe, and xxxix.) and in the Revelations (xx.
Leppa, Leptis, near the Rio dc Piedra: i 8) as ravagers of the earth and nations,
it is a poor town in a rich district, May-Gogg, “ he that dissolveth.”—The
having been twice sacked by the French. ‘ fierce Normans appeared, coming no
The population, some 3000, are fisher- one knew from whence, just when the
men and smugglers. Lepe furnished l minds of men were trembling at the
the Londoners in Chaucer’s time with approach of the millennium, and thus
“rede and white wine,” which, accord- | were held to be the forerunners of the
ing to the Pardoner’s tale, was sold in i destroyers of the world. This name
“Fish Street and Chepe," and “crept of indefinite gigantic power survived
subtelly” into the brains of the citizens. in the Mogigangm, or terrific images,
These drinks probably came from Re- which the Spaniards used to parade in
dondella, where the wines are excel- their religious festivals, like the Gogs
lent, and the fruit delicious, especially and Magogs of our civic wise incn of
Andalucia. norms 7 .—SAN LUCAR TO POR.'l‘UGAL. 165
the East. Thus Andalucia being the ‘ from the Ale-aide can be lodged in this
half-way point between the N. and S.E., Palacio, as it is here called; but this
became the duel meeting-place of the Spanish palace, as often elsewhere,
two great ravaging swarms which have it means, in plain English, cuatro pa
desolated Europe: here the stalwart|~redes, four bare walls. Aprudent man
children of frozen Norway, the wor- ' —experto crede—will always send on
shippers of Odin, clashed against the a galera laden with everything from a
Saracens from torrid Arabia, the fol-, cook to a mattress: take especially
lowers of Mahomet. Nor can a greater good wine, for fuel and game alone
proof be adduced of the power and are to be had. This coto is distant 8
relative superiority of the Cordovese L. from Seville, and the route runs
Moors over the other nations of Eu-~ through
rope, than this their successful resist Bolullos . . . . . 3
ance to those fierce invaders, who over Aznalcazar . . 2 5
ran without dilficulty the coasts of Villa Munrique . 1 6
England, France, Apulia, and Sicily: El Coto 2 .. 8
conquerors everywhere else, here they The ride is wild; the first 5 L. run
were driven back in disgrace. Hence through the Ajarafe, A1-abice Sharaf,
the bitter hatred of the Normans against “the hilly country." This fertile dis
the Spanish Moors—-hence their alli trict, once called the garden of Her
ances with the Catalans, where a Nor cules, was reserved by St. Ferdinand as
man impression yet remains in archi the lion’s share at the capture of Seville.
tecture; but, as in Sicily, these barba It produced the finest Bsatican olives
rians, unrecruited from the North, of antiquity, and under the Moors was
soon died away, or were assimilated as a paradise, but now all is ruin and de
usual with the more polished people,‘ solation. The Spaniards in their talus,
whom they had subdued by mere su or raids, ravaged everything, and broken
periority of brute force. roads and bridges mark their former
warfare. The ruins have remained un
removed, unrepaired, after six centuries
ROUTE 7.—SA1\' Loom T0 PORTUGAL. of neglect and apathy ; meanwhile there
Palacio cle Dona Ann 4 is not only excellent lodging for owls in
Al Rorio . . . . 3 .. 7 the old buildings, but capital cover for
Almoute . . 3 .. 10 game of every kind, which thrive in
Rociana 2 12
Niebla . . . 2 14 these wastes, where Nature and herferaz
Trlgueros . . 2 16 are left in undisputed possession. N0
Gibraleou . . 2 18 man who is fond of shooting will fail
San Bartnlomé . 3 21
A los Castillejos . 3 24 spending a week either at the Cato del
San Lucar de Guadiana. 3 27 Rey, or that of Doiia Ana.
Leaving the last place, and passing
The first portion is some of the finest the sanctuary of our Lady of Dew, we
shooting country in Andalucia. Ma reach Abmonie, i.n the “Condado” of
rismillas is an excellent preserve. The ‘ Niebla, which is described at p. 162.
palace of Dofia Ana, a corruption of Trigueros (Cunistorgis) was t-he port
Ofiana, was the celebrated sporting seat whence the ancients shipped the ores
of the Duque de Medina Sidonia, where of the Sierra Morena, the Montes Ma
he received Philip IV. in 162-1~. To rianos. Gibraleon, as the Arabic name
the N. lies the Coto del Rey, or Lomo signifies, “ the hill of Color,” pop.
del Grullo. The shooting-box of this 2500, is a decayed but ancient place.
royal preserve was built last century San Ducar de Guadiamz is the poor,
by Francisco Bruna, the alcaide of the ill-provided frontier town, on its river,
alcazar of Seville, under whose jurisdic which divides Spain from Portugal,
tion these woods and forests are or were. and is navigable to the picturesque
Parties who come with a permission rock-built Mertola, 5 L. Ayamonte lies
166 ROUTE 7.—SEVILLE—-LACQUEYS DE PLACE. Sect. II.
below San Lucar, distant about 6 L. some respectable native; thus a house
by water (see Rte. vi.): we again re may be furnished in a day or two.
peat, let none visit this rt. bank of the Seville, this marvel of Baetica, the
Guadalquivir, except to shoot. ' Zezriya de mi alma of the Andalucians,
being a place of easy access and of many
SEVILLE. attractions, is more visited than most
“ Quinn no ha mlsto d Sevilla, cities of Spain: accordingly the demand
No ha vista d mara.villa." of foreigners has created a supply of
" He who has not at Seville been, that useful personage the regular lac
Has not, I trow, a wonder seen."
quey de place, who is rarely to be met
Inns.—F0ncla de Madrid, Plaza de with in other towns. Among them
Magdalena; the best but dearish; Antonio Bailly, to be heard of at the
Fonda de Europa, Calle Gallegos; Reyna, or at his house, No. 5, Calle
good, charges 30 reals a day; Ln Rcynoso, can be recommended, not only
Reyna, Calle de Jimios, an old and. as a good guide in the town, but for a
more genuine Spanish posada, is kept courier or travelling servant through
by a civil Portuguese; coldish in winter, out Spain : he has much experience in
it is pleasant enough in summer. Po that line, and makes a capital factotum
sada de la Union, Calle de la Union. and dragoman to those who cannot
There are many decent casas de pupi discourse eloquent Spanish. Antonio
los; the charges vary from 15 to 25' is fat and good-humoured, speaks Eng
reals a day; lodgings also may be had lish well, can sing a good Andalucian
in plenty, and bad dinners sent from song, manage to get up a gipsyfnneion
the restaurateurs. The traveller should en Trinna, &c. &c. This dance is the
lodge near the Plaza San Francisco, real thing, and the unchanged exhibi
and if he intends to reside here awinter, tion of the Improbw Gaditanw of an
in the Calle de las Armas, or at all tiquity. A public Baile is given in the
events in the parish San Vicente, which Salon Oriente every Saturday evening,
is the aristocratic quarter. Avoid the admittance one dollar. English ladie
flat districts near the Macarena, as had far better not go. Another intelli
subject to inundations, and the neigh- gent guide, Gustave de Wllinslci, maybe
bourhood of the Tor-re del Oro, near heard ofat the Europa. By birth a Pole,
which the open Ta_qarete—little better he was formerlya professor oflanguages,
than a Fleet-ditch—exha1es fever and of which he speaks many. Jose’ Lasso
unhealthiness. de la Vega, an oflicer who once served
In the quarters we recommend, while under Sir C. Campbell, and who is to
few large houses are to be let furnished, be heard of at the Union, speaks excel
the rent for those unfurnished is mo lent Castilian. Paacaal Rose, at the
derate—from 4.~0l. to 501. a year: a Madrid, a native of Gibraltar, speaks
palace, as far as size goes, may be had five languages, is a good cook and a
for 1001. a year; a Spanish house, at capital servant. DittmFrederick Ba/r
best, is poorly furnished, according to~ low, who was born in Spain of an Eng
our wants and notions, but carpets, lish father. Gaetano Peickler, an an
&c., are a nuisance here to every living cient and good Cicerone, lives at No. 3,
being except fleas. Calle de los Menores ; he is a Spaniard
Those about to furnish will find tole by birth, although of German origin,
rable and second-hand articles supplied and speaks English well: he tratfics
at the brokers’ shops, which form a also in copies of pictures, clay figures,
street of themselves, running out of the &c. All travellers should consult Don
Plaga de la Encarnacion: and these Julian Williams, our most excellent and
chalanes will, when the stranger leaves, obliging Vice-Consul. There is a Ca
take the things ofi‘ his hands; let no sino here in the Plaza del Dugue, in
new comer buy or sell with these un the old ducal palace; but no one is
conscionable people, but commission admitted in the Majo (the genuine
Andalucia. ROUTE 7.-—SEVILLE— TR.ADESMEN—H1S'l‘ORY. 167
dress of Seville) dress, all nowadays is fol., Sev. 1677 ; this excellent work was
so civilised and denationalised! continued down to 1700 in the 2nd
The fair sex will find the Calles ed. by Espinosa y Carccl, 5 v. 4to.,
Franicos and dc la Sierpe the most Mad. 1795-96. Anales Ecclesiasiicos
fashionable and best supplied shopping y Seglares, from 1671 to 174.6, by L0
streets. Generally speaking the dif renzo Bautista. Zuiiiga, fol., Scv.1748 ;
ferent trades dwell, as anciently in the also Compendio Historico, Sev. 1766;
East (Jer. xxxvii. 21), in streets appro ,and the new ed. under the name of
priated to themselves; thus booksellers ' Varflora: this author also published a
congregate in the Calle de Genoa work on the 1/Vorthies of Seville, Hijos
their Paternoster-row; silvers-miths live ale Seville, 1796. Of modern guides
under the arcades of the Plaza and in there is the poor ‘ Guia,’ by Herera
the adjoining Calle Chicarreros; hard Davila, Sev. 1832; Seville and its Vici
ware dealers, here called los Alemanes, nity, by F. H. Standish, Lond. 1840, a
reside opposite the cathedral; saddlers still more dull, inaccurate compilation.
and makers of the gaiter, the embroi The capture of Seville from the
dered national botin, in the Calle de la Moors by St. Ferdinand, a campaign
Mar: of these Bernardo Delgado is of romance, has been illustrated by the
the best; Penda, Calle de la Borcigue ballads and fine arts of Seville. The
neria (a Moorish boot), was the crack student will consult the Froissart-like
majo tailor; Martinez, Calle de Genoa, C)L1'07ti6‘(l del Scmcto Reg/, by Don
ranks high for more European raimcnt. Lucas, Bishop of Tuy, an eye-witness,
The names of many of the streets-— fol., Valladolid, 1555; the Meinorial,
Oalle Frances, Genoa, Alemanes, Pla Juan Pineda, fol., Sev. 1627; Acta S.
ceutines, &c., offer the surest evidence Ferzlinandi, Daniel Paperbroch, fol.,
that tratlic was chiefly managed by Antwerp, 1688; the Fiestas de la
foreigners, Flcmings especially, who had Santa Iglesia de Seville, Fernando de
factories and privileges, and this even la Torrc Farfan, fol., Sev. 1672-3: this,
in vaunted commercial Seville. one of the few really artistical books of
The invalid will find Seville a very Spain, is illustrated with etchings by
eligible place for winter residence. Dr. Sevillian painters. For the fine arts
Francis (p. 37) gives full hygienic there are the excellent Descripcion
details, and justly enlarges on_the vo Artistica de la Catedral de Sevilla,
luptuous softness of the air, of a nature Cean Bcrmudcz, 8vo., Sev. 1804, and
which exhilaratcs both morally and phy his little volume on the Pintura de la
sically. He dwells on the effects of its Escuela Sevillana, Cadiz, 1806, and the
sunshine, which rekindle strength and Seville Artictica, J. Colon y Colon,
youthful feelings. Calmness forms a Sev. 1841; for Ecclesiastical Antiqui
marked character of the climate, which ties consult Florez, Esp. Sag. ix.;
is dryer and warmer than Cadiz, and Ponz, Viage, ix.; Sevilla Pintoresca,
very suitable for cases of bronchitis Jose Amador de los Rios, 4to., Sev.
and atonic dyspepsia; another pecu 184.4. The Arabic in it is inaccurate:
liarity is the kindly manner in which ,thc author then had no Gayaugos to
serious wounds heal. help him. Consult also Noticia Artis
The man of letters will not lack food tica by Gonzalez de Leon, and the good
for the mind, as few cities have had article on Seville in Madoz, xiv. 209,
more chroniclers than Seville. The which is a book of itself.
best works are Historic de Sevilla, There are two plans of Sevillc; one’
Alonso Morgado, fol., Sev. 1587; His very large and accurate, by Vargas y
toric de Sevilla, Pablo dc Espinosa Machuca, 1788; the other more con
de los Montcros, fol., 2 parts, Sev. _venient for the pocket, by Herrera y
1627-30 ; Aniigiledalles de Sevilla, R0 Davila, 1832. The streetology is difii
drigo Caro, fol., Sev. 1634; Anales cult as the town is a labyrinth of lanes,
Ecclesiasticos, Diego Ortiz do Zuiiiga, each of which resembles the other ; and
168 ROUIE 7.—SEVlLLE—l-IARLY HIS'I‘0l’.\'. Sect. II.
as the names of manv of them were Seville was the capital of the Silingi,
verv absurdly changed in 184-5, the , and of the Goths until the sixth cen- _
little duodccimo street guide, or Calle- , tury, when Leovigild removed his court
jero, published in 184-6 by Alvarez,] to Toledo, as being more centrally situ
will be useful. | ated, while Hermenegi1dus,.his son and
Before examining Seville as it is, a heir, remained as viceroy ; he soon re
brief epitome of the past maiy be pre- y linquished the Arian faith, and declared
faced: the history and date 0 its foun- 1 against his father, by whom he was
dation is lost in the obscurity of remote put to death as a rebel ; but when the
antiquity, as is pretty clear, when men 5 Athanasian Creed was finally intro
go to Hispan and Hercules, who pro duced, he was canonized as a martyr.
bably never existed. The old name‘ These religious wars were headed by
Hispal sounds very Punic, and is de the brothers San Laureano and San
rived by Arias Montano from Seplzela‘ Isidoro, men of powerful intellects,
or Spela, a plain, which is much more successively Archbishops of Sc-ville,
likely than the derivation, a palis, the and now its sainted tutelars. The
piles on which it is not built; this, a former is called the “Apostle of the
mere coincidence of sound, not sense, , Goths,” the latter the “Egrcgious
misled San Isidoro (Or. xv. 1), a dread- y Doctor of Spain.” (See Index, Isi
ful “ maker of shots," but who, being its ' doro.)
archbishop, might have known better. Seville, with all Spain to the west, was
But sound etymological principles are conquered by the Mahomedans under
quite modern, and when Niebuhr the same Kalif Walid, who subjugated
alluded to “that unspeakable spirit Scinde also to the east. The unwarlike
of absurdity which always came over city surrendered to the Moors at once,
even the most sagacious Greeks and after the defeat of Don Roderick on
Romans the moment they meddled the Guadalete: there was treason and
with etymology," he might well have dissension within its walls, for the de
added “patristic and mediteval scho throned monarch’s widow, Egilona,
lars and even saints.” Be that as it soon married Abdu—l-aziz, the son of
may, Hispal, if not of Iberian founda the conqueror Muss-Ibn-Nosseir. Se
tion, was certainly a Phoenician settle ville continued its allegiance to the
ment connecting Gaddir with Cordova: Kalif of Damascus until the year 756,
the Greeks changed the name into when ’Abdu-r-rahman established at
In-ma, and the Romans into Hispalis, Cordova the western Kalifatc of the
of which the Moors made Ishbiliah,F Beni Umeyyah family, to which Se
whence Sibilia, Sevilla. ville remained subject until 1031, when
Of its ante-Roman history little is that dynasty was overturned, and with
known beyond the fact that it was soon it the real dominion in Spain of the
eclipsed by Italica, a military town, by Moor. Then the ill-connected fabric
Gadm, a sea-port, and by Cordova, the split into sects, dlmohades and almo
residence of patrician settlers. Julius ravides, and separate adventurers set
Caesar patronised Seville, because Cor themselves up as kings——sheiks—over
dova had espoused the side of Pompey; each province and town, to become
having captured it Aug..9, forty-five rivals and enemies of each other. The
years before Christ, he became its Sevillian separate monarchy was short
second founder, made it his capital, a lived. The house divided against itself
convenius _7'm~idicus, or town of assize, could not stand, and still less at a mo
and gave it the title Romula, the little ment when the kingdoms of Leon and
Rome; but even then it was more a , Castile were consolidated under St. Fer
Punic than Roman city, and by no } dinand, one of their best of kings, and
means splendid, according to Italian; bravest of soldiers.
notions (Strabo, 208) ; it was, how He advanced into Andalucia, taking
ever, walled round (Hirt. ‘ B. H.’ 35). city after city, the petty rulers being
Andalucia. ROUTE 7,—SEVILLE'—ARMS AND DEVICES. 169
unable to resist single-handed: nay, events and persons form subjects for
partly from tribe hatred and partly the authors and artists of Seville, and
from selfish policy, they assisted as are therefore briefly stated. They have
allies of the Christians, each bidding been tersely summed up in the distich
against each other; thus Ibn-l-ahmar, which is inscribed over the Puerta ale
the upstart Sheikh of Jaen, mainly la Carne
contributed to the capture of Seville. “ Condidit Alcides—renovavit Julius urbem,
The city was besieged from the S.E. Restituit Christa Femandus tertius heros."
side, at Tablada, Aug. 20, 1247: the
details are quite a romance, especially This is thus paraphrased over the
the vision of the Virgin, the breaking of Puerta de Xerez :
thebridge of boats by Ramon Bonifaz, “ Hercules me edifice,
and the prowess of Diego, El Mackaca, Julio Cesar me cercd
De muros y torres altar;
the brother of Garci Perez de Vargas, ( Un Rey Godo me perdid), omitted.
the model of Don Quixote (i. 8). These El Rey Santa me gand,
are the subjects and heroes of ballads, Cam Gama’ Perez de Vargas.”
and of the poem of the Conde de la “ Hercules built me; Ji\1ius Caesar surrounded
Roca, El Fernando, 6 Sevilla Restau me with walls and lofty towers ; a Gothic king
rada, Milan, 1632: an author who lost me ; a saint-like king recovered me, assisted
by Garci Perez de Vargas.”
modestly likened himself to Tasso, and
took San Isidoro for his Apollo. Se Seville, in the unnatural civil wars
ville surrendered Nov. 23, 12-18, on el after the conqueror’s death, was the
din de San Clemente. The citizens only city which remained faithful to
had previously been subject to the his son and successor, Alonso el Sabio,
Emperor of Morocco, but at the death the lea/med, but not wise. He was like
of Arrashid, their African lie e lord, our pedant James I., so well described
in 1242, they had chosen a 'ng of by Gondomar, as “The most learned
their own, whom they soon displaced, fool in Christendom,” and both would
establishing a sort of republican Junta, have made better professors than kings
headed by Sakkaf, the Axataf of Spa ——capzu.-es 'im42em'i, nisi 1'/m_pe'rassent.
nish annals. Thus Seville was lost to Alonso gave Seville the badge, which is
the Moors after a possession of 536 to be seen carved and painted every
years; After the capture St. Ferdinand where. It is called El Node, and is
divided the houses and lands among thus represented: No. 8I>o; the hiero
his soldiers, and this curious ‘ Reparti glyphic signifies No-m’ha deem-D0, “ It
miento,’ or Doomsday Book of Seville, has not deserted me.” Madexa in old
-¢~.Tm._@.~
exists, printed in the 2nd vol. of Espi Spanish meant a knot, and is the Go
nosa’s work; and many families can thic Mataza, Nodus (San. Isid. 01".,
trace their actual houses and posses xix. 29). Thus was reproduced unin
sions up to this original partition. tentionally the old Phoenician mer -.‘-=_.4_-.~»m_-.
For the nobility of Andalucia, see N0 chant mark, the Noclus Hen.-ulis—the
bleza del Andaluzia, Gonzalo Argote knot which guaranteed the genuineness
de Molina, fol., Sevilla, 1588: it has of the contents of every bale: hence
plates of their coats of arms, and is a the Mark of these founders of com
fine and rarish book. merce beoame the symbol of peace,
St. Ferdinand granted to the city for trade, and of the god of thieves, and
arms, himself seated on his throne, with was perpetuated by the Greeks in the
San Laureano and San Isidoro for his twisted ornaments of the herald Cadu
supporters. He died here, while medi ceus of Mere (Macrob. Sat. i. 19).
tating an invasion of Africa, worn out Seville continued to be the capital of
by long services, May 31, 1252, and Spain, and especiall of Don Pedro,
was canonized in 1668 by Clement IX.; who was more than lialf a Moor, until
his body was removed to its present Charles V. remoyed the court to Val
shrine, in 1729, by Philip V. All these. ladolid 3 yet it remained faithful-—true
Spain—I. I
170 ROUTE 7.—5EVILLE UNDER SOULT. Sect. II.
to the sun, although not shone upon— three times; he was wounded and
during the outbreak of the comuneros, . taken prisoner, yet threw back to his
and was rewarded by a motto, “ Ab followers his sword, that its honour
Hercule et CiB38l'€ nobilitas, a se ipsa might remain unsullied; it was that
fidelitas.” The discovery of the New of Pizarro, and had been given to him
\Vorld raised Seville to a more than in reward of previous valour, and now
former splendour ; it became the mart is in the Armeria at Madrid, No. 1769:
ofthe golden colonies, and the residence Downie was afterwards made Ala-aide
of princely foreign merchants. Buona of the Alcazar, not Alcalde, as Col.
partc’s invasion and the subsequent Garwood, not the accurate Duke, notes
loss of the transatlantic possessions cast (Disp. June 11, 1809). The oflice of
her down from her palmy pride of Ale-aide is one of high honour; it is
place. The Junta risked the battle of the Moorish Kaid, Dux Arcis, the
Ocafia in despite of the Cassandra other a petty village magistrate: it is
warnings of the Duke, and were de almost the difference between the Con
feated; the conquerors then overran stable of the Tower, and a Tower con
Andalucia, and in a few days the heroic stable. Downie began life as a clerk
city surrendered (Feb. 2, 1810), with in the commissariat, and was a true
out even a show of fight. SoultAndaluz. The English entered Seville
then became its petty king, for he set amid the rapturous acclamations of
Joseph at defiance. “ Mercy,” says the inhabitants, thus delivered from
Schepeler, “ was erased from his orders Soult’s terrorism, scaflblds, and con
of the day :” here he levied gigantic fiscation.
contributions, and “ inexorably,” as he Seville, in 1823, was made the asylum
boasted, carried into efl'ect his Draco of the bragging Cortes, who halted here
decree of May 9, 1810, ordering “all in their flight from Madrid, and who
Spaniards taken in arms to be shot, again fled at the first approach of A11
without any form of trial ;" for this gouleme; but this capital of the ever
he himself was excluded from the law unwarlike Andalucians never held out
of nations by the Regency. Aug. 15. against any one except Espartero in
Well might Toreno (xvi.) exclaim, July, 1843. That siege lasted about
dtscribing the illegal execution -of Juan 9 days, and during 6 only were any
Manuel Lopez, Nov. 29, 1811 : “ Des bombs fired. Accordingly, less than
garra el corazon crudeza tan desa4n'a. 100 Sevillians were wounded, of whom
dada y barbara.”—Toreno (xx.) esti only 20 died: of the assailants only
mates the French plunder at six millions 29 were killed. Such was the eflioacy
sterling; and he gives the details; so of the attack and defence on a city
docs Schepeler 129). Soult‘snameis containing nearly 100,000 souls.
held at Seville in the same detestation as Seville, the marvel of Andalucia, can
Murat’s is at Madrid, and Sebastiaui’s be seen in less ‘than a week, but the
at Granada. These calculations do not invalid, artist, and antiquarian may
include the stolen pictures; Soult as employ some weeks there with plea.
ked the dealer, Mr. Buchanan, 100,000 sure and profit. The best time to
napoleons for the Murillos alone. visit this town is in the spring, be
As Moore at Sahagun had once before fore the great heats commence, or in
saved the Andalucians, now the Duke autumn, before the November rains
at Sala-manca, delivered them again, a set in. The winter is occasionally
litt-le fact entirely omitted by Madoz very wet; ice and snow, however, are
(xiv. 429), and Soult fled from Seville almost unknown, except for eating,
Aug. 27, 1813, closely followed by Col. when brought as luxuries from the
Skerrett_ Sir John Downie, when his mountains of the Sierra Morena: the
Spanish legion of Loyal Estremenians lower part of the town, near the Ala
would not fight, joined the English, meda Vwja, is often flooded by the
who would, and charged the bridge river inundations, but the streets are
Iv
Andalucia. ROUTE 7.——SEVlLLE—-FESTIVALS. 141
provided with malecones or hatches, being put out of their way: from not
which are then shut down and keep being overdrugged with amusements
out the water. The summer is so very all tasted, nought en_joyed—they are
hot, that it is ahnost impossible to face not liable to bore, which haunts the
the sun, which, with every precaution, most mis-named, most ennuyéd people
can with difliculty be reduced to 84° on earth, our gay world: pleasure to
Fahr. in-doors. However, the town is them is an exception, and is enjoyed
never more healthy than during these with the rapture of children. They
great heats. Then the inhabitants plunge at one bound from habitual
keep still in their cool houses until gravity into boisterous _joy——du sublime
the evening; but this confinement au ridicule. This alternation of sloth
is against the curious sight-seeing and violent exercise-——'inedia et labor
stranger. Seville is one of the most (Just. xliv. 2)—was one of the marked
agreeable towns in Spain for a length features of the Iberian character, as it
ened residence, except in the dog-days. also is of Asiatic nations. To be dri
It is near Cadiz and Gibraltar, and of ven about and abroad, in a thirst for
easy access to the Englishman. The public amusements, is the desperate re
shooting to the rt. of the G-uadalquivir source of the higher states of wealth,
is good and novel; the theatres are luxury, and civilisation.
tolerable; the masquerading at car The city itself lies on the 1. bank of
nival-time entertaining; the dances, the Guadalquivir, which flows along
both those of the stage and the gip the arc of its irregular, ahnost circular
sies, are truly national and Qriental. shape; the circumference is about 5 m. 1
The fairs of Mairena and Italica (the it is enclosed in Moorish walls of con
latter now the fashion) exhibit the creteortapia, which, towards the Puerta
.M'a_jo and Maja glittering in their de Cordova, are some of the most per
native sun, shorn, indeed, of former fect in Spain, and are provided with
glory, by the fatal invasion of calico 66 towers and 15 gates. Seville is the
and civilisation, the worst foes to bar see of an archbishop, having for suffra
baric splendour and costume. Seville gans Cadiz, Malaga, Ceuta, the Canary
is the ahna mater of the bull-fight, Islands, and Teneriife. It was ‘once
and the best animals and masters of one of the most levitical cities of Spain,
the art are furnished from Bsetica. and contained 140 wealthy convents
The religious functions are unrivalled, and churches. It is the residence of a
especially in the Holy Week——Corpus, captain-general, of an audiencia, whose
St. John’s Day—Christmas, with its chief judge is called el Regente; it con
Nacimientas, carols, and shepherd tains 28 parishes and 10 suburbs of
dances—and the winter Rosarios. The arrabales, of which Triana, on the
ceremonial of the Semana Santa is opposite bank, is like the T1-astevere of
second in interest to that of Rome Rome, and the abode of picturesque
alone, and is in many respects quite gipsies and smugglers, and where the
peculiar, such as in the Pesos, or artist leaves his heart. Seville has the
painted and graven images, which are usual provincial civil and military esta
carried through the streets in solemn blishments of all kinds, such as bar
procession; then also the monumento, racks, prisons, hospitals, and so forth,
or sepulchre, in which the host is which do not deserve much notice of
buried, is lighted up in the cathedral, foreigners, who manage all these things
and forms a splendid sight, which must so much better. But Spain is not the
be seen to be really understood. place for political economists, lovers
These form alarge item of the scanty of statistics, poor-laws, and drainage;
and moderate amusements of the bulk suaves res. Seville possesses a Royal
of Sevillians. Their life is very Orien Alcazar, aPlaza de Toros, 2 theatres, a
tal ; they delight in cool repose and the liceo, public library and museum, a uni
cigar. They hate bustle, exertion, or versity, and beautiful walks: it glories
I 2
172 ROUTE SEVlLLE—ANTlQUlTll-LS. Sect. II.
Carmona. He raised the great Mosque 1 the period. Thus the Asinelli tower
of Seville, which was similar in design of Bologna, 371 feet high, was raised
and execution to the celebrated Me:-‘ in 1109, and that of St. Mark, at Ve
quitrl at Cordova; begun in Oct., 4.1). nice, 35O feet high, in 1148.
1171, it was completed by his son and The original Moorish tower was only
successor, Abii Yfisuf Yakfib, who, in 250 ft. high, the additional 100 being
the year of the Hejira, 593 (A.D. 1196), the rich filigree belfiy, was most hap
added the tower, the work of J ztber, pily added, in 1568, by Fernando Ruiz,
whom the Spanish authors call Gever, and is elegant and attractive beyond
and who, from the coincidence of his description. It is girdled with a motto
name, has been reputed, though most from the Proverbs (xviii. 10) ; Nomen
erroneously, to have been the inventor Domini fortissima turris. On grand
of algebra? This tower, like the lco0t festivals it is lighted up at night, and
sabea of Morocco, and the smaller and then seems to hang like a brilliant
unfinished one of Rabat, also the works chandelier from the dark vault of
of the same architect, was, probably, heaven. The pretty form and idea was
erected for the double purpose of call taken from the silver Custodias of the
ing the faithful to prayer, and for as period. This “ star-y-pointing tower”
tronomical observations. On the sum 1 forms the emphatic feature of Seville ;
mit were placed four brazen balls (Man seen from afar it rises like the mast of
zanas, apples), so large, we are in a mighty ship. It is a square of 50 ft.
formed, that, in order to get them into ; The Moorish aja/racas, or sunk pat
the building, it was necessary to remove ‘ terns, difl'er on each side. Observe
the key-stone of a door, called ‘The the elegant intersecting arches, so com
Gate of the Muezzins,’ leading from the mon in the Norman-Saracenic of Apn
mosque to the interior of the tower: lia. The upper niches were painted in
that the iron bar which supported them \ fresco by Luis de Vargas, 1538-58 ;
weighed about ten cwt., and that the but the work is ahnost obliterated,
whole was cast b a celebrated alche while the subjects lower down have
mist, a native 0 Sicily, named Abii been repainted and spoilt. The ascent
Leyth, at the cost of 50,0001. sterling. ; is by easy ramps. The panorama is
And it is a curious fact, showing the mi l superb, but the clock, made by a Fran
nute accuracy of the writer from whom I is ciscan monk, one Jose Cordero, 1764,
here considered the grandest marvel:
we quote these particulars, that when, ‘
during the earthquake in 1395, 157 it replaced the first ever put up in Spain
years after the overthrow of the Moor A. D. 1400. The pinnacle is crowned
ish power, these balls, together with with El Giramlillo, a female figure in
the iron support, were thrown down, bronze of La Fe, The Faith, a some
the latter was weighed, and the weight, what strange choice of a vane blown
as given by one of the historians of Se about with every wind (of doctrine), and
ville, is exactly the same as that stated of a sex and character for what should
by the Mohammedan writer.” Thus never vary or be fickle,* not, perhaps,
much our accurate friend G-ayangos, ill chosen by a church which veers as
who here, and for the first time, has best suits its own interest, twisting the
cleared away the slough of errors in scriptures at its will; and, as Dryden
which many have been engulphed, and says
threatens all those who copy what they “ Such airy faith will no foundation find,
find written in bad Spanish and worse The words a weathercuck to every wind.”
foreign guides. The figure is truly Italian, and was
To build towers was the fashion of . cast in 1568 by Bartolomé Morel. Al
_" Algebra is simply a contraction of the Ara
bic phrase Al-jebre, condensation, contraction, in " The Pagan Spaniard Seneca may be quoted.
contradistinctiou to AZ JlIok‘aba.la.h, comparison, Y
“ Quid
VvnloFamt!
quid lsviusl Fulmen-quid
Mulier—quid Mulierefulmine .' F“ml .
!—nihi|."
confrontation.
-~
though 141 ft. high, and weighing 2800 is struck singly for its special pur
lbs.,it turns with the slightest breeze. It poses: La Gerda, for instance, at the
bears the Labaro, or banner of Constan Ave Mar-ia. A solemn peal is called
tine. This belfry is the home of a colony clamor de camprmas; and a requiem
of the twittering, careering hawk, the for a. dead pope or king, a tocando a‘
Falco linunculoides. The first Christian muerto.
knight who ascended the Giralda after The Giralda is under the especial
the conquest was Lorenzo Poro (Law patronage of the two Dime, the Santas
rence Poore), a Scotchnmn. His de Justina y Rufina, who are much revered
scendant, the Marques de Motilla, still at Seville, and not at all anywhere else.
owns the ancestral house in the Calle In a thunderstorm, 1504, they scared the
do la Cuua. A Scotch herald will do devil, who unloosed the winds to fight
well to look at the coats of arms in the against this church : this, their stand
Patio. ing miracle, is the one so often carved,
The Giralda was the great tower and painted by Murillo and others:
from whence the mueddin summoned and, due proportions considered, these
the faithful to prayers ; and here still young ladies must have been at least
hang his substitutes, the bells, for they 500 ft. high, and a tolerable match for
are almost treated as persons, being all the father of all lies. The Royal Aca
duly baptized, before suspended, with a demy of Seville, however, published in
peculiar oil, which is consecrated ex 1795 (!) a learned dissertation to prove
pressly during the holy week, and they the authenticity of this miracle. (1 !)
are christened after saints. The largest No wonder, therefore, in July, 1843,
is called Santa Maria, or La Gerda. whenEspartero bombarded Seville, that
When Spanish campanas are rung, the the people believed that the Giralda was
performance is called a repique, which still encompassed by invisible angels,
is totally unlike our sweet village bells, headed by these Brobdignac tutelars,
or impressive cathedral peal. In no who turned aside every shot. These
country was the original intention of ladies were the daughters of a potter in
bells, per caccia/re il diabolo, to scare Triana, a low suburb, in which coarse
away the devil, more piously fulfilled earthenware is still made. Morales
than in the Peninsula: all are doleful, has written their biography in 8vo.,
from the dull tinkle of the muleteer’s Perpiiian, 1598 ; and Florez, Esp. Sag.
cencerro, to the passing toll of the ix. 108, 375, gives the whole legend.
steeple. There is no attempt at me In the year 287 these gentlewomen in
lody in their repique, no chime, no sulted the paso of Venus Salambo, and
triple bob majors. The music is de were put to death. Now-a-days the Vir
void alike of ringer science, rural rus gen de los Dolores (Ceres Axfluz, of grief,
tic melody, or the solemn association of as lamenting the loss of her child Pro
sounds, the poetry of the steeple, the serpine) has superseded that idol; and
“ nighest bordering on heaven.” The were any of the modern potteresses of
campanas are headed with cross beams Triana, or tract-distributing Protest
of wood, almost of the same weight as ant spinsters, to insult the sagrada
the bells themselves, and are pulled at imagen of the Virgin in the pasos of
until they keep turning round and the Semana Santa, they would run a
round, head over heels, except when better chance of being sacrificed by
they are very large; then the clapper the mariolatrous Sevillanos than made
is agitated by a rope, d golpe de badajo. saintesses.
Any orchestral discipline and regularity Of the other Moorish minaret or
is not a thing of Oriental Spain; the mueddin towers, observe those of San
bells are all pulled their own way, like Marcos, Santa Marina, Santa Catalina,
a company of guerilleros, or a Dutch and Omnium Sanctorum. That of San
concert, where each performer plays Pedro has been modernized.
his own tune. Each bell, be it said, Below the Giralda is the Moorish
176 ROUTE 7.—-SEVILLE-—PATlQ DE LOS NARANJOS. Sect. II.
Patio de les Naranjos, the court of sition and prove that his discovery of
orange trees, with the original fountain, the New World was predicted in the
at which the cleanly Moslem oucc Scriptures. The fine set of the works
“performed” what polite writers call of Handel were given by Lord Wel
“ his ablutions,” so hateful to the ortho lesley, whose recreation (worthy son
dox Spaniard. Only two sides of “ this . of Lord Mornington, a musical sire)
court of the house of the Lord,” this was listening to the high mass in
=:-s/asvag, or “grove” remain. Enter it the cathedral. Above the book-shelves
at the N. by the rich Puerta del Per are hung portraits of archbishops,
dan, which was modernized in 1519 and the pictures themselves mark the
by Bartolomé Lopez. Observe the rise and decline of church power.
Moorish arch and original bronze The older, the Tello, Albornoz, Luna,
doors, but the belfry is modern. The Toledo, Fonseca, and Mendoza, are
terra eotta statues are by Miguel Flo men of master mind, who bore their
rentin, 1519-22. The “Saviour bear great commissions in their looks; the
ing his Cross” was by Luis de Vargas, latter, in their blue and white ribands
for it is ruined by repainting. This and periwigs, are mere stall-fed cour
subject, the Via Crucis, the Via Do tiers, or boudoir-frequenting Abbés.
lorosa of the Italians, is commonly The “cretinised” Bourbon Cardinal
called in Spain la calls de Amargura, Luis is the climax of the imbecile. Thus
the street of bitterness, from the agony the church has degenerated with the
endured by the Redeemer. state, art, and country. Observe also a
portrait of Fr°~ Bonifaz, a physician, by
“ The path of sorrow, and that path alone
Leads to the place where sorrow is unknown." Al°' Cano; and a San Fernando by
Murillo, not very fine. Inquire for the
This door suffered much, Aug. 7, 1839. sword of the great Count Fernando
Entering to the r. is the sagrario, or Gonzalez, and used by the hero of
parish church, and in front the Gothic Seville’s conquest, Garci Perez de Var
pile, and the Giralda rising like a mast gas, in cutting Moorish throats, as some
of the nave. To the l. is a stone pul verses shown with it detail ; read them.
pit, where San Vicente Ferrer, and The reader of Don Quixote and Spanish
other instigators of autos de fe, have ballads will of course remember Don
preached (see the inscription). In the Diego el Machuca, the pounder, so
l. corner a staircase leads to the chap called from hammering down the Moors.
ter library, La Columbina, so called This, the Oriental title of Judas l\Iac
because left to the canons and book cabaeus, was also given to Charles
worms by Fernando, the son of Colum Martel. By this hammer, who at Tours
bus. It was then, perhaps, the finest crushed the crescent, Europe was saved
in Europe, and destined by him to be a. to be Christian instead of Mahomedan ;
nucleus—-a. future Bodleian, but the and types of the chivalrous and of in
chapter grossly neglected their trusts, dividual pcrsonal prowess are dear to
although largely endowed. About 60 Spaniards and Asiatics.
years ago the tinew et blattaa were On the staircase observe the tomb of
dusted out, and what they had not Inigo Mendoza, 1497 ; and in the
dcstroyed,re-arranged. It still contains Guarto de los Subsidies, a Pietzi by
about 18,000 Volumes; among them in Juan Nufiez, one of the earliest of Se
quire for a damaged MS. ofthe founder’s villian painters: opposite the Puerta
travels, and for those books which con del Perdon, in the Sula de la Herman
tainnotes written by the great Columbus dad del Santisimo, is a “ Dispute of the
himself, e. g. in a Tractatus dc Imagine Sacrament,” by Herrera el Mozo (the
Mundi, Petri de Aliaco, his cabin com hermoso, “ the beautiful one” of- Mr.
panion during his eventful voyage ; also Inglis!) ; it is affected and indistinct.
look at the MS. tract drawn up by him The others are by Arteaga: observe a
when in prison, to satisfy the Inqui small infant Saviour, by Montafies.
Andalucia. ROUTE 7.——SEVILLE——THE LONJA. 177
A dark gate, where a horseshoe of the and feasts, and destined them to the
old mosque remains, leads into the in knife-stab. Some French ofiicers one
terior; here hangs what was the croco day were admiring the Giralda, when a
dile, or el Lagarto (whence our term majo replied, “y can todo eso, no se
alligator), sent to Alonso el Sabio, in hizé en Paris,” and yet it was not
1260, from the Soltan of Egypt, who made at Paris; and fortunately, from
requested the hand of his daughter: its size, it could not be “conveyed”
the Infanta declined a suitor whose away by the modem Verres.
first present scarcely indicated the Passing onward to the l. rise the
affectionate. Here are buried some of Moorish walls of the Alcazar, while to
los conquistadores, the conquerors of the rt. is the semicircular exterior of
Seville, e. _q., Pedro del Acero, 1265. the chapel of San Fernando, adorned
Before entering the cathedral, walk in the heraldic Berruguete style of
round the outside, which, with the ad Charles V.; next comes the Contaduria,
joining buildings, ofi'ers a most interest or chapter counting-house, pilastered
ing epitome of the rise, progress, and in the plateresque balustraded taste,
decline of Spanish church architecture : above which soars the sombre Gothic,
here are specimens of every style, from The S. entrance of the transept is un-.
the Moorish down to the modern and finished; in front is the noble Lonja,
academical; commence at the N. side : casa longa, the exchange, the long
observe the solid tapia, Moorish walls, room. This, although somewhat low,
the square buttresses, the bearded or is a fine specimen of the skill of Her
flame-fringed battlements. The ele rera, by whom it was designed, For
vated steps are called Las Gradas, the merly, the bill-brokers and gossipcrs
old English “ grees,” degrees. The desecrated the cathedral, until the
truncated pillars belonged to the Archbishop, Christobal de Rojas, in
mosque, and, previously, to Roman 1572 (the year after Gresham had
temples. This terrace was long the removed our money-changers from St.
exchange of Seville. Here, according Paul’s by providing them with the
to Navagiero (Viaggio 13), the mer Royal Exchange of London), petitioned
chants lounged, tutto il giorno, on this Philip II, to follow this example, even
il pit) bel ridutto de Seoiglia; so the of heretics, and erect a suitable casa
idlers and money-changers, from re de contratacizm, or house of contracts,
sorting to the cathedral of old London, for the growing commerce of Seville.
were called “ St. Paul’s Walkers.” But trusts in it were given to the un
Those who wish to see the outside of trusty, and regulations framed which
the cathedral before examining the in strangle commerce, in order to favour
side, will turn to the E., to the Arch the smuggler and the fraudulent. After
- In'shop’s Palace, a Churrigueresque pile, infinite difficulties Juan de Herrera con»
built in 1697. The staircase is hand cluded the edifice in 13 years, which was
some; the curious clerical cell, La Paropened for business Aug, 14, 1598,
ra, in which peccant priests once were Juan de Minjares was employed in
imprisoned, deserves notice: otherwise the construction. It is an isolated
the interior contains little worth men quadrangle, each side being some
tion, being meagrely furnished. Here 200 ft. wide by 63 ft. high to the ante
Soult, “Plunder-Master-General” of peaho. The stone came from the quar
the French, resided, when the walls ries of Martellila, near Xerez. The
were adorned with his precious collec pilasters and windows are not pleasing,
tion of Spanish pictures; fortunately but the Doric and Ionic Patio is mag
he could not “remove” the Giralda. nificent: ascending a marble staircase
It was on the plaza opposite that the with modern jasper ornaments and an
cloaked patriot Spaniards watched altarito of bad taste, to the upper floor,
those of their Afrancesado countrymen is el Archive do Zas Imiiae, the archives
who frequented theforeigners’ councils of S. America, which were arranged
1 3
uv
14 8 ROUTE 7-——SEVlLI.E—CATHEDRAL. . Sect. II.
favourite of his great pupil Al°' Cano. represent sacred subjects from the New
The tasteless chapter have disfigured and Old Testament and the life of the
her gentle serious dignity with vile Virgin. The Alfonsine tables, which
tinsel gewgaws, repugnant alike to good are usually placed on the altar, contain
taste as to the lowly character of the i the relics collected by Alonso el Sabio.
Lord‘s handmaid ; but the spirit of real The silver work and frontage of the
devotion, as well as that of superstitious altar, as also the atriles, are the work
idolatry, is quite irres pective of fine‘ of Fr°- Alfaro. The Respaldo del alta/r,
art: the most hideous fetish or the of richest Gothic, is by Gonzalo de
gaudiest doll is more worshiped than ‘Rojas, 1522; the terra-cotta figures
the finest M. Angelo, just as a true are by Miguel Florentine, 1523. Here
religious feeling purifies the coarse and in a small room are some curious pic
elevates the low, and generates a devo tures by Alejo Fernandez, in the half
tion altogether distinct from mundane gilded Byzantine style. They deserve
or critical admiration. notice, as Fernandez was the master of
Castillo, whose pupils were Cano and
The core is open to the high altar,
and is railed ofi' by a fine reja, the Murillo. Here hung the two superb
work of Sancho Munoz, 1519. The Murillos—t-he “Birth of the Virgin”
Silleria del Coro was carved by Nuiio and the “ Repose in Egypt,” which on
Sanchez, 14-75, Dancart, 1479, and M. Soult’s arrival were concealed by the
Guillen, 154-8. Of the 117 stalls ob chapter; a traitor informed him, and
serve the archiepiscopal throne in the he sent to beg them as a. present, hint
centre : the elegant facistol is by Bar ing that if refused he would take them
tolomé Morel, 1570. In the entre los by force (Toreno, xx.). The worthy
coros is put up during Easter week Marshal one day showing Col. Gurwood
the exquisite bronze candlestick, 25 his “ collection” at Paris, stopped op
feet high, called El Tenebrario, and posite a Murillo, and said, “ I very
wrought, in 1562, by the same Morel : much value that specimen, as it saved
when the miserere is sung in the holy the lives of two estimable persons.”
week, it is lighted with thirteen candles: An aide-de-camp whispered, “ He
twelve are put out one after another; threatened to have both shot on
indicating that the apostles deserted the spot unless they gave up the
Christ; one alone of white wax re picture.”
mains burning, and is a symbol of the Walking round the lateral chapels,
Virgin, true to the last. At Easter and beginning at the door of the Sa
also, the Cirio pasqual or “fount grario, is that de los Jacomes. Observe
candle,” which is equal to a large a Roelas, retouched by one Molina and
marble pillar, 24 feet high, and weigh quite spoilt. In the next chapel, la
ing 7 or 8 cwt. of wax, is placed to the de la. Visitacion, is a Retablo painted
1. of the high altar. Before ascending by Pedro Marmolejo de Villegas, born
the steps to it observe the two pulpits at Seville, 1520-1670, and an imitator
and the wja principal, made in 1518 by of the Florentine school. Observe the
the lay Dominican Fr°' de Salamanca: portrait of Diego de Roldan, who gave
those at the side are by Sancho Mufioz, this Retablo. In the Ca. de N.S. del
1518, and are first-rate specimens. Consuelo is a “ Holy Family,” the
The Gothic Retablo of the high altar, masterpiece ofAlonso Miguel de Tobar,
divided into 441 compartments, is un the best perhaps of Murillo’s pupils,
equalled in Spain in size and elaborate 1678-1758. Then, passing the grand
details; designed in 1482 by Dancart, V door, is the precious “ Angel de la
it was finished in 1550: it is said to Guarda,” the Genius natale Comes, a
be made of alerce (see Cordova), with guardian angel holding a sweet child,
which the plain of Tablada, near Se by Murillo : next, a fine “ Nativity,” by
ville, was covered in the time of the Luis de Vargas, who may be called the
Goths (Morgado, 96). The carvings Pierino del Vaga of Seville, 1502-1569.
-IO
Andalucia. norms 7.—sEv11.LE-cATni:DRAI.. 181
In Ca. de San Lam-eano, observe the justly therefore a quarto volume was
tutelar saint walking without his head : written on this Palladium of the city
in these miracles, c’est le premier pas by Antonio de Solis, Sevilla, 1739. The
qui co11te. Many Spanish female saints fine plateresque tomb of the “great”
spoke after decapitation——the ruling Cardinal Mendoza, erected in 1509, is
passion strong after death. So of old by Miguel Florentin; and, opposite,
Phil0mela’s tongue vibrated after it that of Archb. Luis de Salcedo, a feeble
was cut oif (Met. vi. 556). So says imitation, in 1741. The frescoes were
Lane (‘ Mod. Egyp.’ i. 300), a Moslem painted by Domingo Martinez. The
santon spoke without any head at all. marble statues in the‘Retabl0 are by
In Dante’s ‘11g"erno,’ xxviii. 121, a Pedro Duque Cornejo.
gentleman converses holding his own Now advance into the transept, and
head in his hand like a lantern. Ari look up at the Gothic balconies of the
osto’s Orrilo looks after his own head galleries. The mahogany clock is in
when cut 05', and very sensibly puts the worst French and modern taste.
it on again as if it had been his hat; To the rt. of the Puerta de la Lonja is
and Isabella, of the same romancer, the celebrated “La Generacion” ' of
murmurs out after death the name of Luis de Vargas. The breast of Eve
her loved Zurbino. was covered by the prudish chapter.
In the next chapel of Santa Ana is a This truly Italian picture, and the
Retablo of the date 1504, with very painter’s masterpiece, is also called
curious costumes, painted with all the“La Gamba,” from the leg of Adam
defects of Juan Valdes Leal, 1630 ex pede Herculem—which Mateo Perez
1691, the rival and foe of Murillo. A de Alesio is said to have said was
door now leads to the archives, which worth more than all his colossal “ Saint
are very perfect, as the chapter sent Christopher,” painted opposite in fresco
them to Cadiz, and they thus escaped in 1584, and which is 32 ft. high. San
being made into cartridges by M. Soult. Christobal—for thus he is half Chris
Adjoining is the Magordomia. N.B. tianised and Punicised-—was a Saracen
' Examine the splendid choral books. ferryman—portitor ipse Cha/ran. He
Returning to the cathedral in the Cu. is painted at the entrance of most
San Josef, observe a “Nativity,” by Spanish cathedrals, of colossal size,
Fr°‘ Antolinez, ob. 1676; and a mar that all may see him, because all who
riage of the Virgin by Valdes Leal; look on him cannot come on that day
and in the next, a statue of San Her to an evil death.* He carries the infant
menegildo, by Montafies ; and the Saviour, who holds the globe in his
magnificent tomb of the Archb. Juan hand, across a river. This Baal is the
de Cervantes, ob. 1453, the work of Coelifer Atlas, C71/ristqferos. Few Re
Lorenzo de Mercandante. In the Sa licarios in Spain are without one of his
cristizz de la Antigua are a few paint teeth, of which he must have had more
ings by Antolinez, el G-riego, Zurbaran, than a. crocodile and larger than an
Morales, and some flower-pieces, by elephant, for which some heretic na
Arellano, 1614-1776. The chapel it turalists have taken or mistaken the
self is one of the Sancta Sanctorum. molars. In the Ga. ale la Santa Cruz
Observe the marble Retablo; the silver is a “ Descent,” by Pedro Fernandez
railing, with the words “Ave Maria ;” de Guadalupe, 1527. Next enter the
and the ancient picture painted in the most elegant Sacristia de los Calices,
style of Cimabue, but more probably designed in 1530 by Diego de Riafio.
Byzantine: the sacristan will swear Observe the Crucifix by Montafies, the
that it is by St. Luke, and that it re Tintoret-like portrait of Contreras,
mained even in the Moorish mosque, painted in 1541 by L. de Vargas ; and
and of itself miraculously introduced the nun Dorothea, by Murillo, finished
San Ferdinand into Seville, opening the * Christopbori Sancti speciem quicunque tuetur
gates and shutting the sentinel‘s eyes ; Ista. nempe die non morte mala morietur.
182 ROUTE 7-—SEVlLLE—CATHEDR.AL. Sect. II.
and glazed Urna, made in 1729: the contains the Pila or font, with the Gi
body nearly perfect, is displayed on ralda windows, painted in 1685. Here
May 30, Aug. 22, Nov. 23, and none is the large and much-admired paint
should fail to attend the most striking ing, the “San Antonio ” of Murillo:
military mass, when troops are marched the infant Saviour attended by cherubs
in and the colours lowered to the con visits the kneeling monk; unfortu
queror of Seville: observe the original nately, in 1833, it was cruelly re
sepulchre of the king, on which the touched, and bailado, or daubed over,
U-ma is placed, with epitaphs in Latin by Gutierrez, an operation we saw per
and Spanish to the 1-t., and in Hebrew formed and vainly protested against.
and Arabic to the l., with orles This once noble work was painted in
of castles and lions ; the epitaphs 1656 in Murillo’s best period. Mons.
were composed by his son, Alonso el‘ Viardot (Etudes, 429) and the stupid
Sabio. Florez has published a quarto verger tell an idle tale that “Our
explication of them, Elogios del Sou, Duke” coveted the picture, and ofi'ered
Reg, Mad. 1754. The Banner of Spain to cover this gigantic canvas with
and the sword of St. Ferdinand are ounces of gold, but that the chapter
kept in this chapel, the sword saved declined. “L’Angleterre a gardé son
from Soult by a chaplain, used to be or, et Séville le chef-d’oeuvre de son
taken out on all grand war expedi peint1e—gloire s Séville.” Supposing
tions; and on his saint’s day it is ex that this were his chef-d’ceuvre, which
hibited, and a sermon, el de la es-pada, it is not, and supposing the Duke
is preached, in which its virtues are oifered his cash, which he did not,
expounded. In this chapel also is surely English gold is no worse than
buried the gentle and beautiful Maria French iron. It is, however, quite
dc Padilla, the mistress of Pedro el common in Spain, when the value of
Cruel, and the Minister Florida Blanca. anything is wished to be enhanced, to
The Retablo in the Ca. de San Pe say, “An Englishman bid so and so
ri/ro, in the Herrera style, contains pic for it.” This at least is a compliment
tures by Fr°' Zurbaran, 1598-1662: to our honesty ; we do not rob, but are
observe the lock of the grating “ Cer willing to pay for what we have the
rqio de la Rqja,” made by Cordero, taste to admire. No offer of cash by
but this corner of the cathedral is too M. Soult is ever cited, he found steel
dark to see anything well; in the north and stealing cheaper. This picture
transept is a charming “Na. Sa. de disappointed Wilkie, and, to our mind,
Belem,” or a delicious “Virgin and has always been overrated: but as it is
Child,” by Alonso Cano. In the Ca. the fashion to praise it, the cuckoo note
de San Francisco is the “Assumption is repeated.
of the Tutelar,” one of the best works This cathedral should be visited at
of the presumptuous Herrera el Mozo. different times of the day and evening,
The window, painted in 1556, is re in order to fully estimate the artistical
markable. In the Ca. de Santiago is changes and eifects of light and shade.
a picture of that patron of the Spains, The interior is somewhat dark, but it
riding over Moors, with miraculous is a gorgeous gloom, inspiring a reli
energy, by Juan de las Roelas (1558 gious sentiment, chastening, not chill
1625). The painted window, the “ Gon ing, solemn, not sad. The contrast
version of St. Paul,” 1560‘, is full with all out of doors is striking; and,
of the richest reds and blues; the after the glare, heat, noise, and crowds,
“ San Lorenzo” is by Valdes. Observe the still, subdued, cool quiet soothes
the tomb of Archb. Vargas, ob. 1362, body and soul. The sun, about two
era 1400; and in the next chapel, o’cloc_k, falls on the Holy Rood over the
that of Baltazar del Rio, Bishop of Retablo, and produces a splendid effect.
Scalas, 1518, a friend of Leo X; The The cathedral is always thronged, not
arch is Italian work; the la-st chapel only by the devout, but by idlers, beg
Andalucia. ROUTE 7.—SEV1LLE—-ALCAZAR. 185
gars, and sinners. The sexes are not‘ Moors of Granada, desirous of adopt
allowed to walk about or talk together ; i ing that style, employed Moorish
the ancient Silentiarii, in the form of, workmen. Observe the delicate ara
celadores, and periigueros, beadles, and besques, the pillar-divided windows,
vergers, keep guard, and papal excom ajimezes, and the carved sofltit. The
munications are suspended in ter quaint Gothic inscription almost looks
rorem ,- nor are women allowed to like Cufic; it runs thus; “El muy
enter after Qraciones, when the shades alto, y muy noble, y muy poderoso,
of evening come on, and the pretext of y conquistador Don Pedro, por la
“ going to church” reminds the scholar gracia de Dios, Rey de Castilla y de
of Ovid (Art. Am. i. 8. 74, and iii. Leon, mando facer estos alcazares y
638), who teaches women to make the estas facadas que fue hecho en la era
pretence of going to the mass of Isis an mil quatro cientos y dos,” that is, 4.1).
excuse to meet their lovers. It was 1364.
not prudent even to ask what took The royal residenee-—AZcasar—al
place before her Retablo (Am. 2, Kasr, the house of Caesar, whose name
25). Juvenal (ii. 6, 487) uses the strong is synonymous with majesty, occupies
expression, Isiacaz Sam-aria Leena; J the site of that of the Roman praetor;
And the cathedral of mariolatrous it was rebuilt in the 10th and 11th
Seville is a chosen rendezvous ; lovers centuries, by Jalubi, a Toledan archi
care little for the presence of the Ima tect, for Prince Abdu-r-rahman An
genes Sa_qrada.s-—they are, say they, San na’ssir Lidin-Allah [the defender of the
tos muy callados, and never tell tales. religion of God].
These evils are, however, easily It has been often and much altered
avoided. Not so another nuisance, by Ferdinand and Isabella, and Charles
common to this and most churches in V., and Frenchified by Philip V., who
Spain, the beggar tribe, who, like mos subdivided the noble soloons with
quitos, smell the blood of an English paltry lath and plaster tabique. Don
man ; remember, therefore, the specific Pedro began by repairing the whole of
phrase, Perdona Vmd. por Dias, Her the western side, and his painted ceil
mano ! My brother, will your worship ings still remain, as the badge of his
excuse me, for God’s sake! The beggar Banda evinces. Isabella erected the
bows—he knows that all further appli pretty chapel up-stairs, with the very
cation is useless; the eifeet is certain interesting Azulejo ornaments. Charles
if the words be quietly and gravely V. was here married to Isabella of Por
pronounced. tugal, and, being of chilly habits, put
Now visit the Alcazar; but first ob up the fire-places in the second-floor
serve a singular Moorish skew-arch, to the E. He also repaired the stucco
in a narrow street leading to the Zienzos of the grand patio. Philip II.
Puerta de Xerez, which proves that introduced the portraits into the hall of
the Moors knew its use at least eight ambassadors; Philip III., in 1610, built
centuries ago. The Alcazar is entered the armoury, and Philip V., in 1733,
by two gates, either by that de las Ban raised the pillared Apeadero .- here he
deras, where the colours are hoisted resided in morbid seclusion for 2 years,
when the king is residing, or by that amusing himself with religious pen
de la Monteria, from whence he sallied ances and fishing in his pond. The
forth to the chace. The grand portal o_/icinas over the baths of Padilla were
is apparently Moorish, yet it was built erected by ‘Ferd. VI. This Alcazar
by Don Pedro the Cmcl, the great was barbarously whitewashed in 1813,
rest-orer of this palace. At this period when much of the delicate painting and
the elaborate Oriental decorations of gilding was obliterated; considerable
the Alhambra were just completed by and creditable restorations were begun
Yusuf I.; and Pedro, who was fre by Arjona in 1830, and carried on by
quently on the best terms with the the Infants. during her residence here.
186 ROUTE 7.—SEVILLE—ALCAZAR. Sect. II.
ever studied from him, he looked rather (de N. et G. 36; contra Jul. v. 15,
to the children as painted by Roelas. vi. 22). The dispute of this Imma
Observe the San José; San Juan con el culate Conception waxed warm in
Cordero and No. 165, “ The Virgin and the 13th century, but the Roman
Child,” called La Servilleta, because clergy took little interest in a mere
said to have been painted on a dinner question of casuistry. The Council of
napkin; the child almost struggles out Trent blinked the question, wishing to
of its mother’s arms, and out of the decide nothing (see Sarpi IILs-toria, p.
picture-frame. What a creative power, 188, ed. 1629). Not so the Spaniard,
what a coiner was our Murillo, who whose worship of an Astarte is almost
could convert into a bank-note a napkin, sexual: accordingly, when it was re
in which most Spaniards bury their pc vived in 1613, a Dominican monk
tit talent! No. 161, “ St. Francis cin having contended that the Deipara was
bracing the Crucified Saviour 1” here is liable to the pains and penalties of
seen Muril1o’s great power of drawing. original sin, their rival mendicants the
Observe, also, “The Virgin and Angels Franciscans aflirmed that she was ex
with the Dead Christ," and “ The An cmpt. Those of Seville took the lead so
nunciation.” No. 157, the San Anto violently that, before the Dominicans
nio, is a finer picture than that in the were silenced by the Pope, the whole
cathedral; observe the monk’s ex population assembled in churches, and
pression looking on the child that is sallying forth with an emblematical
seated on his book. Also No. 162, picture of the sinless Mary, set upon a
Sa/n Felix, half"-length. All these came sort of standard surmounted by a cross,
from the Capuchinos. There is also paraded the city in different directions,
an early Murillo, a “ Virgin and singing praises to the Immaculate Con
Child,” from San Jose, and two of San ception, and repeating aloud the hymns
Agustin. The rest of the collection, of her rosa/ry. These processions long
some hundred pictures, are by difi'erent constituted one of the peculiar usages of
artists, and of different degrees of Seville; and, although confined to the
merit. The above selected are the lower classes, assumed that character
pearls of greatest price. And last, not istic importance and overbearing spirit
least, observe No. 151, La Concepcion which, as among the Moslems, is at
by Murillo, once a gem of the Oapu taehed to religious associations inSpain.
chin convent. No. 1 is another and Wherever one of these processions pre
larger of this popular Seville subject, sents itself to the public, it takes up
but not so fine : Murillo, from his ex= the street from side to side, stopping
cellence in painting this “mystery,” the passengers and expecting them to
was called el pintor de la: concepciones. stand uncovered in all kinds of wea
The crowning and protecting mys ther till the standard is gone by. These
tery of Spain is the dogma that the banners are called Sin Pecados, that is,
Virgin was born free from all taint of “ sinless,” from the theological opinion
original sin. This is so peculiar and in support of which they were raised.
national, occurs so frequently in church, They take place during the holy
chapel, and gallery, and has occupied Week and the winter season, and are
so many pens, pencils, and chisels, that very picturesque. At nightfall the long
some explanation is absolutely neces lines of men, Women, and children, two
sary in any ‘Handbook for Spain.’ and two, are seen twinkling through
The assertion that she was exempt the narrow streets, which are illumi
from original sin—which by deifying nated from the balconies of the houses.
the Woman, denies the humanity of Their hymns arc precisely the old, Noc
the Saviour, a dogma which, in 1854! turnis, Hecate, triviis ululata per urbes;
is the panacea of Pio Nono—was due and there is something striking in the
to a heretic, Pelagius, while the ortho melody of the chant of distant voices
dox St. Augustine taught the reverse heard as it approaches: the procession
Andalucia. ROUTE 7.—-SIIVILLl7}——IMMACULATE CONCEPTION. 195
is headed by devotees, who carry richly occasion. Charles III. afterwards in
chased lamps,far0les, on staves. The stituted an order, to which he gave his
parish priest follows, bearing the glit name “ Carlos Tercero,” under the
tering banner of gold and velvet, the emblem of the Immaculate Concep
Sin Pecado, on which the Virgin is tion—a woman dressed in white and
embroidered; as soon as the cortege blue; and a law was enacted requiring
passes by, the candles in the balconies a declaration upon oath of a firm belief
are put out: thus, while all before is in the Immaculate Conception from
‘ one glare of light, all behind is dark, every individual previous to his taking
and it seems as if the banner of the any degree at the universities, or being
Virgin cast glory and effulgence before - admitted into any of the corporations,
her, like the fire-pillar which preceded civil and religious, which abound in
the Israelites in the desert. The scholar Spain. This oath was administered
may compare all this with the accounts even to mechanics upon their being
of the “ Omnipotentis Deac foecundum made free of a guild. At Seville a col
simulacrn1n;” the lamps, songs, ante lege, Las Becas, was founded solely to
cantamenia, and processions of the instruct youth in the defence of this
Pompa of Isis described by Apulcius, mystery. All the facts and opinions,
‘Met.’ xi. 243, et seq. The air of the both pro and con, are collected by the
music varies in diflerent parishes: the Franciscan Pedro Alva y Astorga, un
words are Dias te salve Maria, llena der the title “Funiculi nodi indisso
ares de gracia, el Sailor es contigo, ben lubiles de conceptu mentis et ventris :”
dita tu eres entre todas las mugeres, y Brussels, 1661. The author left 18
bendito es elfruto dc tu vientre ; Jesus J more volumes on this subject, which
Sta. Maria, Madre de Dios, ruega still remain unpublished (see Antonio,
Seiiora par nosotros pecadores ahora y ‘Bib. Nov.’ 168). The arguments
en la hora de nuestra muerte. may be summed up in three words,
The Spanish government, under decuit, potuit, fecit. The miracle was
becoming the occasion, it was in the
Charles III., showed the greatest eager
ness to have the sinless purity of thepower of the Almighty to work it, and
Virgin Mary added by the Pope to the he did.
articles of the Roman Catholic faith. Formerly no one entered a house
The court of Rome, however, with the or company without giving the watch
cautious spirit which has at all times word of Seville, Ave Maria pu/risima,
guided its spiritual politics, endea to which the inmates responded by the
voured to keep clear from a stretch of countersign sin pecado concebida : now
authority, which even some of its own the first portion is generally the indica
divines would be ready to question; tion of a visit from a mendicant.
but splitting, as it were, the difference Seville having taken the lead in the
with theological precision, the censures dispute, as became the capital of ultra
of the church were levelled against mariolatrous Andalucia, La tierra de
such as should have the boldness to la Santisma, it is natural that some
assert that the Virgin Mary had derived of the most perfect conceptions of
any taint from her ancestress Eve; next, Murillo and Alonso Cano should have
having personified the Immaculate Con been devoted to the embodying this
ception, it was declared that the Spa incorporeal mystery; and never has
nish dominions in Europe and America dignified composure and innocence of
were under the protecting influence of mind, uurullled by human guilt or pas
that mysterious event : the declaration, sion, pu_re unsexual unconsciousness of
on the 22nd October, 1617, diffused sin or shame, heavenly bcatitude past
joy over all Spain. Seville 'went reli utterance, or the unconquerable ma
giously mad. Zufiiga and Valderama jesty and “hidden strength of chas
enter into all the details of the bull tity,” been more exquisitely portrayed.
fights which were celebrated on the She appears in a state of extatic bea
Q K 2
196 ROUTE 7.—SEVILLE——IMMACULATE CONCEPTION. Sect. II.
titude, and borne aloft in a golden surrounded with smaller pictures, which
tether to heaven, to which point her represent those different attributes
bcauteous eyes are turned, by a group and manifold perfections of the Virgin,
of angels, which none could paint or which are celebrated in her Hymn
colour like Murillo, who seems to have and Litany. Murillo’s unapproach
studied in heaven those_little cherubs able pre-eminence in representing this
of which that kingdom is made. The charming subject procured for him the
retiring virgin loveliness of the blessed . name of el pintor de la Concepcion.
Mary seems to have stolen so gently, so The draperies of the Virgin must be
silently on her, that she is unaware of very long, and her feet never shown ;
her own power and fascination. The and this forms one guide to distinguish
Inquisition required the Virgin to be Spanish from Italian pictures of this
painted as about fifteen years old, very subject.
beautiful, with those regular features The mys of the incarnation is
which the Greek artists selected to shadowed out in the armorial bearings
express the perfect passionless serenity of the Virgin, the vase with lily
of the immortal gods, devoid of human brcmches, jarro con agucenas, which is
frailties, and the type of “the unpal to be seen sculptured in Spanish ca
luted temple of the mind ;" that her thedrals, most of which are dedicated
attitude should be— to her, and not to the Father or Son.
In the middle ages an idea was preva
" Her graceful arms in meekness bending
Across her gently budding breast ;”—
lent that any female who ate the lily
that she should be clad in a. spotless would become pregnant: Lucina. sine
robe of blue and white, because she concubitu. See some remarks of ours
appeared in those colours to Beatriz in the ‘ Q,uar. Rev.’ cxxiii. 130.
de Silva. She should bruise with her The University of Seville was origin
heel the serpent’s head; thus tram ally a convent erected by the Jesuits in
pling on the author of original sin. 1565-79, after designs ofHer1-era, and in
She should stand on the moon in a their peculiarworldly pomp, which con
crescent shape; thus combining at trastedwith the gloomy piles of the more
once the symbol of Pagan and Moslem, ascetic orders. When Charles III. ex
the crescent of Isis, of Diana, and of pelled them in 1767, it was assigned, by
the Turk. The horns should be placed the praiseworthy efforts of Olavide, to
downwards, because in fact the moon purposes of education. Thearrangement
is always solid, although it appears to in the church of the subsequent frieze,
us, from the sun getting between it and cornice, and architraves is objection
the earth, to be occasionally a crescent. able, when compared with the original
The moon is introduced because the Doric. Recently many churriguer
“ Woman, clothed with the sun, and the esque altars and absurd ornaments
moon under her feet, and upon her have been removed. It may be called
head a crown of twelve stars” (Rev. the second Musemn of Seville, and the
xii. 1) is held at Rome to si “ the founder was the same worthy Cepero.
Virgin,” while Protestants interpret A tolerable library has been formed
the “Woman” as an image only of from those of the suppressed convents,
the Christian or _ spiritual Church. and the system of education has been
Meantime these stars should never be modernised and improved since 1846.
omitted. The body of -the Virgin Although the position of the Caro
should float in an atmosphere of light, Alto of the chapel spoils the general
derived from herself. The cordon of ' effect, the raised altar mayor, with
San Francisco, sacred as the'Zennaarl its tabernacle by Matias, 1604, is noble.
cord of the Brahmins, should encircle The superb Corinthian Retrzblo de
the whole, because it is the badge of signed by Alonso Matias, in 1606,
that order which defended her imma- i
contains three grand paintings by
culate conception. The subject is often Roelas—a Holy Family, with Jesuits ;
Andalucia. ROUTE 7.—SEVILLE—UNlVERSITY. 197
aNativity; and an Adoration. No one from the reversed torch ; its companion
ever painted the sleek and oily grimal was taken to Madrid. The armed
kin Jesuit like Roelas. Observe an An effigy is somewhat heavy. Observe
nunciation by Pacheco; a St. John the statues of Diego Gomez de Ribera,
the Evangelist, and a St. John the Bap ob. 1434, and his wife Beatriz Puerto
tist, by Alonso Cano. The statues of Carrero, ob. 1548. Among others of
St. Peter and St. Paul are by Mon this warlike family, most of whom
taiies. Observe the smaller picture by spent their lives in combating the
Roelas, and particularly the Infant Moor, are Perafan de Ribera, ob.
Saviour. Al lado del Evangelio are 1455, and another of the same name,
the bronze monuments of Francisco ob. 14123, aged 105 ; perhaps the finest
Duarte and his wife Catalina, ob. 1554 ; is that of Dofia Catalina, ob. 1505,
both were brought in 184.0 from the which was made for her son Fadrique,
Convento de la Victoria de Triana. in Genoa, 1519, by Pace G-azini. It
The Retablos of the chapels of Con. was mutilated by the French, by whom
cepcion and Lax Reliquias deserve no the splendid bronze of this Fadrique
tice: in the latter are pictures in the was destroyed, when Soult converted
manner of Pacheco. Observe the two the Cartuja into a barrack: one large
images made to be dressed, imagenes flat monumental engraved brass only
de oesti/r, ofFrancisco de Borja and San escaped—the efligy of his nephew Fa?
Ignacio, wrought in 1610 by Mon drique, ob. 1571, viceroy of Naples,
taiies; the latter was coloured by where it is conjectured that it was ex
Francisco Pacheco, and probabl is ecuted. For further details consult
the best portrait of the founder o the Una Visita (2 la Universidad. A. M.
order of Jesuits that exists; also by de Cisneros y Lanura, Seville, 1853.
him a crucifix and a fine Concepcion; Seville, in good old times, contained
and some pictures, by Cane, of the more than 14-O churches, filled with
lives of San Cosmé, San Damian, a objects of piety, art, and value; many
Saviour, and a Holy Father. Among were plundered and pulled down by
the monumental curiosities removed Soult’s sappers, and others since the
from Santiago ale Espada, a ohurch suppression of monasteries have shared
which Soult turned into a stable, ob a similar fate. These establishments
serve, first, the founder’s tomb, Lo were well endowed, and afforded a f65!
renzo Suarez de Figueroa, with his tival and spectacle of some kind or
favourite dog Amadis at his feet; and other for almost every day in the year,
next the sepulchre of the learned Be and, in fact, monopolized the time and
nito Arias Montano, ob. 1598: these relaxation of the people. There are
were brought also from the Santiago, three kinds of religious days or festi
and properly placed here as an ex vals : the first are called Fiestasde pre
ample to young students; remark the cepto, on which no sort of work may
costume. In an apartment recently be done; the second are Fiestas de
fitted up are 4. heads of Latin fathers concejo, which might and ought to be
by Alonso Cano, 2 pictures by Roelas, held sacred also; the third are Fiestas
and a good Zarbaran. de media trabajo, half holidays, when
On the suppression of the Cartuja work is permitted on condition of hav.
convent, the burial-place of the Ribera ing first heard a mass; the scholar
family, Ca-non Cepero induced their may compare the ancient Dies Festi—
representative, the Duke of Medina et Profesti (see Macrob. Sat. i. 16;
Celi, to remove the fine sepulchres of Virg. Georg. i. 268). M. Soult arrested
his ancestors : that of Pedro Enriquez, all this prodigious and pious idling :
ob. 1/L92, was sculptured at Genoa by first, by sapping the religious principle
Antonio Charona in 1606. The Virgin of belief; secondly, by knocking down
and Child is much admired, as also the buildings, and seizing the funds by
the weeping genius, called La Tea, which theholidayshows were supported.
198 noun: 7.—s1:vn.m~:—cmmcnss. Sect. II.
Among the most interesting old '‘ the glorious Relablo, by Roldan, was
churches which survive, the ecclesio1o- , pulled down by the French and sold
gist may still visit Sun Lorenzo : here is l as wood for firing, when Soult turned
a “Concepcion" by F. Pacheco, 1624; ' the ch. into a cartridge-manufactory.
an “ Annunciation” by Pedro de Ville Thetower of San Pedro is Moorish ;
gas Marmolejo, who lies buried here, observe the artesonado roof and the fine
with an epitaph written by Arias Mon Reiablo : the pictures by Campana
tano. Here also is buried the prolific 'have been repainted. The “Delivery
priest Juan Bustamente,ob. 1678, setat. ‘ of St. Peter” is by Roclas.
125 ; this true Pad/re was father of 42 1&1» Juan de la Pulma was a Moor
legitimate and 9 natural children. In 1 ish mosque dedicated to the Baptist ;
the Retablo are 4 medallions and a San the Arabic inscription at the entrance
Lorenzo, by Montafies, by whom also is records that “this great temple was
Nuestro Sefior de gran Poder, a superb rebuilt in 1080 by Axataf.” The cross
graven image. occupies the site of the palm, under
In the Colegio, or ancient university, ‘which the dead were buried. One of
de Maese Rodrigo, so called from the the corpses, in 1537, hearing a rich
founder, Rodrigo Fernandez de San- r‘ Jew say that the mother of God was
taella, 1505, are or were some injured 3 not a Virgin, rose from his grave and
pictures by Zurbaran. The portrait of denounced him to the Inquisition, who
the founder, by Zurbnran, has been en bunit the sceptic and confiscated his
tirely repainted by Bcjarano. Readers property. Inside is a “Crucifixion”
of Cervantes should look at the Mar by Campana, early and hard, and an
morillos, mentioned in the Rim.-onetef infant Christ by Montafies.
g Cortadillo. In San Isidore is “ El Ilrans-iio,” or
San Clemente contains a splendid the death of the tutelar saint, the
alerce roof, and a plateresque high masterpiece of Roelas a very great
altar by Montafies, and a portrait of master, although mudh less known
St. Ferdinand by Valdes,and 2 pictures ' and appreciated than he deserves:
of him by Pacheco: the Azulejos are observe the gray heads, the Correg
curious, and of the date 1588. Observe ‘ %la0S(]_11116 fleshdtigts, spl m_uc1l)11studied by
the grand and powerful St. John the. uri 0. an ‘me a mira e composi
Baptist, carved by Jaspar Nuiiez Del- l tion. The lower portion is the finest,
gado, and painted by Pacheco. _and the heads are evidently portraits.
San Miguel is very ancient; the Here also are an indifferent “St. An
statue of the tutelar is either by Rol- 1 thony” and “St. Paul,” by Campana,
dan or his daughter'; observe the pil- ‘ both repainted, and some pictures by
lars and capitals, and the Christ, by. Valdes: the El Cireneo is carved by
Montaiies, bearing his cross ; it is one Bernardo Gijon.
of his finest works, and is called El In Santa Ma;-in la Blanca, a syna
Padre Jesus de la I'asi0n. It has an , gogue down to 1391, are some granite
especial cofradia for its worship and ‘ columns, thought to be Roman. Soult
custody. The pictures called “Ra plundered it of the 5 Murillos, leaving
phael and Vandyke ” are bad copies. only by him a “ Last Supper,” in his
The magnificent ch. of the convent ‘ frio style. Here is a “ Dead Christ,”
of St. Pablo has been recently appro by L. de Vargas; very fine and Flo
priated to the parish: it contains rentine, but cruelly injured and neg
paintings by Arteaga, and frescoes by lected.
Lucas Valdes, and some fine Pasos. The Colegiata Saw Salvador con
In San Andres is a “ Concepcion” tinued in its original mosque form
by Montaiies, with many small pic down to 1669, when it was rebuilt in
tures by Villegas. the worst Churriguerismo, and after
In San Alberto is a Via Crucis, said , wards still more disfigured by Cayetano
to be by Cano, and several Pachccos; Acosta, by whom is the abominable
Andalucia. ROUTE 7.»—SEVl1.LE—PLAZA DEL DUQUE. 199
Transfiguration; the image of San say, by Cano. The plateresquc Retablq
Cristobal is by Montafies, those of Sa. has a fine painting of Santa Lucia, the
Rufina and Sa. Justa are by P. D. patroness of eyes (luar, light). In the
Cornejo. The Patio was the original church of this Santa I/ucia, once a
Moorish court: here is a miraculous mosque, is a “Martyrdom of the Pa
crucifix, El Crista dc los Desampa/rm troness,” by Roelas, and a sweet Con
dos, where countless pictures and ception, attributed to Cano.
“ votive tablets ” are hung up by those San Esteban, once a Mosarabic
relieved by its miracles, as in the days church, contains specimens by Zur
of Horace and Tibullus. The sick come baran, and a fine “ Christ bearing the
here for cure, and suspend legs, arms, Cross,” by Montafies.
and models of the parts benefited, made The tower of San Marcos may be
of wax, which become the fee of the ascended, as Cervantes often did, to see
priest ; and from the number it would the house near it of his beloved Isabella.
seem that he has more practice, and In San Martin is a “Descent from
effects more cures, than the regular, the Cross,” ascribed to Cane; but it
Sangrados; but it must be remembered is a Roman painting, and inscribed
that those who are not cured but die, “Jo. Guy. Romo. f. afio 1608;” ob
make no signs. serve the chapel of Juan Sanchez Gal
San Vicente was founded in 300. lego, built in 1500, and repaired in
Here, in 421, Gunderic, entering to 1614. In the Retablo are some early
plunder, was repulsed by fiends. Here paintings by Herrera el Viejo.
San Isidoro died, A.D. 636: the affect The admirers of Roelas should visit
ing account, by Redenipto, an eye La Academia, where is a “Concep
witness, is printed in the Esp, Sayr cion ” by him eqiml to G-uido.
ix. 402. Outside is painted the tutelar N.B. Several pictures by Roelas exist
with his familiar crow holding a pitchs at Olivares, 4: L. N.W. of Seville, and
fork in his mouth: a rudder would a pleasant ride. He was canon of that
have been more appropriate (see p. church. There he painted, in 1624, a
130). But these attendant birds are “Birth of Christ,” now much injured ;
an old story—Juno had a cuckoo on an “Adoration,” an “Annunciation,”
her sceptre (Pans. ii. 17. 4), Jupiter a “ Marriage of the Virgin,” the
preferred an eagle, Esculapius a cock. “ Death of St. Joseph ;” but although
Inside is a painting of Christ by M0 his last, they are not his best works.
rales, and some large pictures by Fran Here he died, April 23, 1625.
cisco de Varela. The Calls dc la Sierpe, the Bond
In San Julian is a fresco of St. street of Seville, leads to the Plaza
Christopher by Juan Sanctis de Castro, del Duqne, where the great Dukes of
1484 ; it was barbarously repainted in Medina Sidonia had their palace. This
1828. Under some shutters to the l. central square is planted, and forms
is a “Holy Family” by him, which the fashionable nocturnal promenade
has escaped better, and is one of the during the summer months, and which
oldest paintings in Seville: the kneeling is truly southron and striking. Itisa
figure is one of the Tons Monsalvez miniature Vauxhall, minus the price of
family, who were buried here, and to admission or the lamps; but the dusk
whom the Virgin appeared on a broom- » is all the better for those who, like glow
bush ; hence she is called dc la Iniesta. worms, need no other light but their
Observe the Rejas, made of votive; bright eyes,whieh never sparkle brighter
chains of captives delivered by her in than by night, and it has not yet been
terference. Catenam ex voto Laribus l settled whether the fair sex of Seville
—so the Phialeans oifered their chains 1 blushes or not in the dark : certain it
to their goddess (Pans. i. 58). There ‘ is, that the moon, which cannot ripen
is a curious old folio on her legend. grapes, here ripens love, and in these
The “ Concepcion” at the altar is, some ‘ torrid climes the rays of the cold chaste
200 noun: 7.-—SEVlLLE—LA rams. Sect. II.
orb of Dian are considered more dan- l council of Constantinople, to which the
gerous than the tabardillo or coup de younger classes of Sevillians are as
soleil: “mas quema la Luna, que el; scandalously inattentlve as the Irish
Sol,” the moon sets more on fire than ‘ at their similar Baal-tinné. But civi
the sun, so propinquity is doubly ha lisation is sapping creeds and practices
zardous, since the Spanish man isim ' Spain.
peculiarly combustible, fire itself ac To the lefiv of the fountain is a
cording to the proverb, and the woman barrack of tattered invalids, which once
being tow, the smallest puff of the evil ‘was a convent of Jesuits, and when
one creates an awful conflagration. that order was suppressed was given
“ El hombre es uwgn, la muger extopa, up to the Inquisition. The edifice, ra
Vime el dial) 3/ aopla." ther cheerful than forbidding, partakes
Continuing from this plaza, walk by more of the attraction of its first pro
the ch. of San Vicente to the Alameda i Prietors than of the horror of its second.
Viefa, the ancient but now deserted Dismantled by the populace, it contains
walk of Seville. The water of the foun- ‘ no record of its dungeons, and tor
tain here, del Arzobiqro, is excellent, ¥ ture-rooms; but, fast hastening to
and the best in Seville. Look at the ruin, is in all respects a fit abode for its
Roman pillars and statues (see p. 172). inmates.
Here reside the horse-dealers and Turning to the rt. is La Feria, where
jockeys, and cattle-dealing continually 'a fair is held every Thursday, which
goes on. all should visit ; it is the precise Soock
June is the great month for Veladas, e juma of Cairo; the street leads to the
vigils, and wakes, nocturnal obser Plaza dc la Encarnaci0n—now the
vances kept on the eve preceding the market place, to construct which the
holy day: the chief is that on the 24th, French pulled down a convent dedi
St. John’s day, and is celebrated on cated to the Incarnation. Here the
this old Alameda, and is proverbially naturalist will study the fish, flesh,
merry :— fruits, and fowls ; the fish and game
" La dc San Juan en Sevilla
are excellent, as is also the pork, when
Es alcgre ni 1m1ravilla.” fattened by the autumnal acorn, the
Izellota. Instinct teaches these feree
This St. J0hn’s, our midsummer eve, is , naturse to ' fatten themselves on the
or was devoutly dedicated to flirtation good things which a bountiful nature
by both sexes,who go or ought to go out provides. Those meats which require
at daybreak to gather vervain, eager la ' artificial care, and the attention of man,
verbena, which represents in Spain the i are very far inferior. Observe the pur
magical fcrn~seed of our forefathers. chases made, the two-ounce “joints”
Bonfires are lighted, in sign of rejoicings of meat or carrion, for the poverty
——-like the ban-feu of our G-uy Fauxes— stricken olla, pars-im0ni0'us' as in the
over and through which the lower time of Justin (xliv. 2). It must be
classes leap ; all this is the exact manner remembered, that in this burning clime
by which the ancients celebrated the less animal food, which generates calo
entrance of the sun into the summer ric, is necessary than in the cold north.
solstice. The fires of Cybele were kin Notwithstanding, the Spanish proverb
dled at midnight. The jumping over considers the man who dines in Se
them was not merely a feat of activity, ville as especially favoured by heaven,
but of meritorious devotion (Ovid. “A quien Dias quiere bien, en Seoillas
Fast iv. 727) : le dzz de comer," few of our English
"Certe ego transllii positss wr ordine readers will think so.
flammas."
In the Calle del 'C'andilejo is a bust
This custom of passing through the of Don Pedro, placed, it is said, in
fire of Baal or Moloch was expressly memorial of his having here stabbed a
forbidden in the year 680, at the 5th: man. The Rey Justieiero quartered
Andalusia. acorn 7.—SEVILLE——LA cum. 201
himself in eifigy only. His and Lord suburbs; the circuit of the Moorish
Byron’s “friend,” Don Juan, was a walls, about a league, with its gates and
Sevillian majo, and a true hidalgo. towers, once numbering 166, contains
The family
lived name
in a house nowwas Tenorio.to the
belonging He i many objects of first-rate interest. We
shall commence going out from the
nuns of San Leand/ro, in which there Calle de lasArmae, by the PuertaReal,
is some good carving, although the the Royal Gate, through which St.
French did infinite mischief there. Ferdinand entered in triumph. It was
(For his real pedigree, see our paper in called by the Moors Gales, which the
the ‘Quar. Rev.’ exvii. 82; consult Sevillians, who run wild about Hercules,
also the Burlador de Sevilla or Convi consider to be a corruption from that
dado de Piezlra, by Tirso de Molina, name : it is simply the gate of Gales, a
with Ochoa’s preface in the Tesoro Moorish suburb (Conde, iii. 35). The
del Teatro Espariol. Paris, 1838; present gate is built in the Roman style,
vol. iv. 74) ; the Tenorios had a chapel and is disproportionate to the site.
in the Eanciscan convent, where the Emerging from a dip to the rt. is the
murdered Comendador was buried, and Colegio de Merced, or San Laureano,
to which Don Juan fled, when the which was pillaged and desecrated by
monks killed him, and trumped up the Soult’s troops, and made a prison for
story of his Devil-death: the chapel galley-slaves by the Spaniards ; behind
and the statue were destroyed when it are the ruins of the house of Fer
the convent was burnt. nando, son of the great Columbus.
Do not fail to look at the extraor The suburb is called Los Hu/meros,
dinary Azulejo portal of Santa Paula, supposed to have been the site of the
of the time of the Catholic kings; the Roman naval arsenal. Here were the
carvings in the chapel are by Cano. tunnels and Moorish dock-yard, and
The French carried ofl' all the pictures. residence of fishermen. It is now
l Here are sepulchres
of Portugal, of Juan,
and Isabel his constable
wife, the tenanted by gipsies, the Zincali; Seville
in their Romany is called Ulilla and
founders. Safacoro, and the Guadalquiver, Len
The foundling hospital, or La Cuna, Baro, or the Great River. Zevya is
the cradle, as it is called in Spain, is in their darling city, where so much is
the Calle de la Ouna ; a marble tablet is congenial to their habits. Here always
thus inscribed, near an aperture left for resides some old hag who will get up a
charitable donations :—“ Quoniam pa- funoion, or gipsy dance (see ‘ Gather
ter meus et mater mea deliquerunt ings,’ p. 327). Hcrewillbe seen the dark
me Dominus autem assumpsit ” (Ps. eyed callees—ojo.v con granfnego y in
xxvii. 10). A wicket door, el torno, tencion—and their lovers, armed with
is pierced in the wall, which opens on shears, pa/ra monraba/r.Here lives tho
bein tapped, to receive the sinless true blood, the errata, who abhor the
chil ren of sin, whom a nurse sits up rest of mankind, the busné. Borrow’s
at night to take in. This, formerly little accurate vocabulary is the key to the
better than a charnel-house, and where gitanesqne heart, for according to him
sinless children of sin and innocents were they have hearts and souls. As the
massacred (see ‘Gatherings,’ p. 223), has existence of this work of the Gil Blas
been taken in charge by some benevolent of gipsies is unknown to them, they
ladies, assisted by Sisters of Charity, will be disarmed when they find the
and, although the shadow of death stranger speaking their own tongue;
still hovers over this so-caHed cradle thus those who have a wish to see the
of life, is better conducted : the inade fancy and main life at Seville, which is
quate funds are much increased, a duty much the fashion among many of the
of a real being levied for its support on young nobles, will possess la ale’ d/u
every fanega of corn sold in the market. crweau, and singular advantages. Our
Seville is surrounded with seven younger Britons must be eautigus, for,
4 K
202 norm: 7.—SEVlLLE——THE LEPERS. Sect. II.
as Cervantes says, “ These gipsies are ' 1284-: the term gafo, leper, the Hebrew
l utagood-for-nothing people, and only chaphaph, was one of the 5 actionable
born to pick and steal ;” they are “ fish- j defamatory words of Spanish law.
hooks of purses,” as Solorcano has it. Observe the terra cotta ornaments on
The pretty gipsy lasses are popular; 1 the Doric facade. The interior is
they trafiic on sure wants; they pro-,miserable, as the funds of this true
phesy money to Spanish men, and hus- V Lazar-house were either appropriated
bands to Spanish women ; and in spite ; by the government or converted by the
of their
stick withcheating
listenerswords, a little
who readily will i trustees
believe chiefly some
are generally to theirtwenty
own use. There
patients.
what they vehemently wish. Here will be seen cases of elephantiasis,
‘ the hideous swelled leg, a disease com
Turning to the rt., between the river
banks and the walls, is the Patin de las
‘ mon in Barbary and not rare in Anda
Damas, a raised rampart and planted ‘ lucia, and which is extended by the
walk, made in 1773. The city on this charity-imploring patient in the way of
side is much exposed to inundations. the passenger, whose eye is startled and
Opposite in its orange-groves is Mr. ‘pained by what at first seems a huge
Pickrnan’s pottery—once the celebrated icankered boa-constrictor. These hos
Cartuja convent ; beyond rise the towers ‘pitals were always placed outside the
of Italica and the purple hills of the ' cities : thus for this purpose our St.
Sierra Morena. James’s Palace was built; so, among
Passing the gate of San Juan is La the Jews, “ lepers were put out of the
Barqueta, or the ferry-boat. In the ' camp ” (Numb. v. 2). The plague
Chozas, opposite, true ichthyophiles go, stricken were compelled to dwell alone
like herons on the bank, to eat the shad, (Lev. xiii. 46). The word Lepero, at
Savalo, the Moorish Shebbel. Los Hue- , Mexico, is equivalent to “beggar.” He
cos and Savalo asado are the correctl is the Lazzarone of Naples, that Para
dise of idlers.
thing,bnt this rich fish is unwholesonie i
in summer. Here also El Sollo, the A Moorish causeway, raised in order
sturgeon, is caught, one of which the‘ to be a dam against inundations, leads
cathedralchapterusedtosendtotheroyal to La Macarena, the huge La Sa/ngre
table, reserving the many others for their . Hospital rising to the rt.; this is the
own. The walls now turn to the rt. Half suburb of the poor and agricultural
a mile outside is the once noble convent labourers. The tattered and parti
of St. Jerome, called, from its pleasant coloured denizens of all ages and sexes,
views, La Buena Vista. The fine church the children often stark naked, oétus du.
was used for the furnaces of a bottle climat as in Barbary, and like bronze
manufactory ; that has burst since, and Cupids, cluster outside their hovels in
become bankrupt, but the smoke black the sun. Their carts, implements, and
ening the sacred pile has left the mark animals are all pictures; observe the
of the beast ; it had previously been primitive carts, true plausfra, netted
turned into a school, which also failed. with esparto, and the patient resigned
The Patio, in Doric and Ionic worthy oxen with lustrous eye, so scriptural
of Herrera, was designed by two monks, and sculptural, and mark the flower
Bartolomé de Calzadilla and Felipe de adorned frontales between the horns ;
Moron, in 1603. Observe the spacious everything falls into a painter’s group,
red marble staircase, and the rich plas
a tableau vivant, and particularly as
ter pendentives to the ceilings in thei regards that Entomological Society
first floor leading to the mirador. , which forms by far the most numerous
Here Axataf took his last farewell of and national of Spanish naturalists;
Seville, when St. Ferdinand entered. they pursue certain “ small deer,” caza
Returning by gardens hedged with aloes ' manor, for which a regular battue is
and tall whispering canes, is San La always going on in the thick preserves
zaro, the Leper Hospital founded in! of the women’s hair. Here Murillo
Andalucia. norms 7.-sEvn.LE—LA saxens. 203
came for subject and colour ; here are recently somewhat improved in that
the rich yellows and browns in which respect, and much boasted of here.
he revelled ; here are beggars, imps, and Returning to the city walls, observe
urchins, squallid and squalling, who, la Barbacana, the Barbican, Arabice
with their parents, when simply tran Bab-el-cane, the gate of the moat, or
scribed by his faithful hand, seem to enclosure. The circumvallation all the
walk out of the frames, for their life and way to the gate of Oszzrio-—so called
reality carries every spectator away. because leading to the Moorish burial
Continuing the walk, turn l. to the gro und—and admirably preserved, is
enormous Hospital de la Sangre, or dc built of tapia, with square towers and
las cinco Llagas, the 5 bleeding wounds battlements, or almenas, which girdle
of our Saviour, which are sculptured Seville with a lace-like fringe. Near
like bunches of grapes. Blood is an the Cordova gate, and opposite the
ominous name for this house of San hermitage of San Hermenegildo, where
grado, whose lancet, like the Spanish Herrera el Viejo was imprisoned, is the
knife, gives little quarter ; neither does Capuchin convent of Santos Jmtimz
this low quarter, exposed to inunda and Rufina, built on the spot where
tions and consequent fevers, seem well the lions would not eat these ladies
chosen as a site for a hospital. This patronesses of Seville. The church
edifice was erected i.n 1546 by Martin was long adorned by the Murillos now
de Gainza and Hernan Ruiz. The in in the Museo; and rich was the treat
tention of the foundress, Catalina de in our day to see them all hanging as
Ribera, was more perfect than the per placed by the painter himself, with the
formance of her successors; after her bearded Cwpuckinos for ciceronis, who
death the funds were misapplied, only might have sat for the original monks,
a fourth part of the plan was finished, and who looked as if they stepped from
and the building remains, and may re the frames, of pictures, which they
main, unfinished, although a pious thus realised. Near the Puerta del Sol,
person, namedAndueza, has left legacies the most E. gate, are Los Ilrinita/rios
for the purpose. Descalzos, the site of the palace of Dio
The S. and principal facade, 600 ft. genianus, where the above-mentioned
long, presents a noble architectural Santas Justina and Rufina were put to
appearance of the classical Ionic and death. This fine convent was pillaged
Doric style. The portal is one of the and desecrated by Soult’s troops. Pass
good architectural bits in Seville. The ing the long fantastic salitres, the salt
interior Patio is striking; the hand petre manufactory, now abandoned and
some chapel occupics the centre; on going to ruin, the scene becomes more
the front are sculptured medallions of lively at the gate of Carmona. To the
Faith, Hope, and Charity, by Pedro l. is San Agustin, once full of Murillos;
Machuca ; the chapel is a Latin cross, M. Soult, having carried elf the best,
with Ionic pillars ; the Retablo of the gutted the convent, and destroyed the
high altar was designed by Ma-eda in magnificent sepulchres of the Ponce de
1600, and gilt by Alonso Vazquez, Leon family, and rifled the graves :
whose pictures in it have suffered from the tombs were restored in 1818 by the
neglect and repainting. Observe the Countess-Duchess of Osuna, and an
“ Crucifixion,” with the “Magdalen,” indignant record placed of these out
and eight Virgins, by Zurbaran, of no rages against the dead. Next, this con
great merit. Invalid pictures, at all vent was made a den of thieves, a prison
events, were not restored in this hos for galley-slaves, and is now become a
pital, asmany were used as floor-cloths. matting manufactory, not worth in
The interior management of this specting. This side of Seville sufl'ered
hospital, now the principal one of somewhat from the bombardment in
Seville, is hardly yet a thing of which July, 1s43.
Medical Spain can be proud, although The long lines of the aqueduct, Los
204 ROUTE 7.—SEVlLLE——LA BULA DE CRUZADA. Sect. II.
Cafio: do Ca/rmona, now run pictu III., to keep the Spanish crusaders in
rosquely up to the Ilumilladero or Cruz , fighting condition, by letting them eat
del Cam/po. It was to this spot in meat rations in Lent when they could
April that all the world used to go, to get them. This, the bull, la Bula, is
behold the Major return from the Feriu announced with grand ceremony every
de Mairena, before it was shorn of its January, when a new one is taken out,
glory. The next gate is la Carne, so like a game certificate, by all who wish
called because leading to the shambles. to sport with flesh and fowl with a safe
To the l. is the suburb San Bernardo, l conscience ; and by the paternal kind
which must bevisited ; the mounds of 1 ness of the Pope, instead of paving
earth are composed of the collected 3l. 13s. 6d., for the small sum of dos
heaps of Seville dust-holes ; a planted Y reales, 6d., a man, woman, or child
walk leads to the Fundicion, the low, lmay obtain this benefit of clergy and
large artillery-foundry erected by cookery : but woe awaits the uncertifi
Charles III., who employed one Ma cated poacher—treadmills for life are
ritz, a Swiss, to cast his cannon; once a farce—perdition catches his soul, the
one of the finest in Europe, now it is one last sacraments are denied to him on
of the very worst : power of motion is his deathbed; the first question asked
obtained by mules or rude maquinas de by the priest is not if he repents of his
sangre, engines of blood, not steam, and sins, but whether he has his bula ,~ and
murderous ls the waste of animal la in all notices of indulgences, &c., Se ha
bour. Soult reorganised this establish do tener la bula is appended. The bull
ment. Here were cast, by a Catalan, acts on all fleshly, but sinful comforts,
those mortars, a la Villantrois, with like soda on indigestion : it neutralizes
which Victor dld not take Cadiz, while everything except heresy. The contract
one of them was taken and now orna in 1846 was for 10,000 reams of paper
ments St. James’s Park. Soult, before to print them on at Toledo, and the sale
he fled, ordered as a parting legacy the produced about 200,000l. ; the breaking
foundry to be blown up, but the mine one fast during Lent used to inspire
accidentally failed. The furnaces were more horror than breaking any two
then filled with iron, and with those commandments ; it is said that Span
cannon which he could not remove; iards now fast less—but still the
but the amalgamated masses were sub staunch and starving are disgusted at
sequently got out by the Spaniards, Protestant appetites in eating meat
and remain as evidence of his culinary breakfasts during Lent. It sometimes
talents. The relic is called la torta disarms them by saying “ Tengo mi
Fwmcesa, or French omelette; a flint bula para todo.” M. ‘Soult robbed
was also placed in the wheel of a pow the till, burnt the printing-presses, and
der-mill, which, when set in motion, converted everything into a ruin (see
struck against a steel; and by this ‘Gatherings,’p. 243, and ‘ Compendio de
cowardly contrivance, Colonel Duncan las tres Gracias de la Santa Oruzada,’
and other men were blown to atoms. Fr“. Alonso Perez de Lara, Mad. 1610).
(C0ndcr’s ‘ Spain,’ 141.) The splen The Parroquia de San Bernardo
did cinque-cento artillery, cast in Italy contains a superb “Last Judgment,"
at a time when form and grace were ‘ by the dashing Herrera el Viejo ; a
breathed even over instruments of “ Last Supper,” in the Sacristia, by
death, were “removed” by Angouléme Varela, 1622 ; and a statue of the
in 1823. The Bourbon was the ally of “ Tutelar,” by Montafies, and others by
Ferdinand VIL; Soult was, at least, Roldan. Here also is the matadero,
his enemy. the slaughter-house, and close by Fer
In this suburb was the celebrated dinand VII. founded his tauromachian
Porto Celt‘ (Coeli), founded in 1450; university. These localities ‘are fre
here was printed the Bula de Cruzada, quented by the Seville fancy, whose
so called because granted by Innocent {favourite and classical dishes of a sort
Andafucia. noun: 7.—-SEVlLLE—EL BARATERO. 205
of tripe, ca llos y menudos, are here eaten Ba/rratry is derived from the medieval
in perfection. See Pliny, ‘ N. H.,’ viii. Ba/rrateria, which Ducange very pro
51, as to the merits of the Callum. perly interprets as “ cheating, foul
N.B. Drink manzanilla wine with these play.” Sancho’s sham government was
peppery condiments; they are highly of Ba/rateria; Baratar, in old Spanish,
provocative, and, like hunger, la Salsa meant to exchange unfairly, to thi.mble
de Sun Berna/rdo, are appropriately rig, to sell anything under its real
cooked in the parish of this tutelar value, whence the epithet barato, cheap.
of Spanish appetite. The sunny flats The Barateio is quite a thing of Spain,
under the old Moorish walls, which where personal prowess is cherished.
extend between the gates of Carmona There is a Buwafero in every regiment,
and La Cm-ne, are the haunts of idlers, ship, prison, and even among galley
Barateros, and gamesters. The lower slaves. For the Spanish knife, its use
classes of Spaniards are constantly and abuse, seezilbacete.
gambling at cards: groups are to be The open space beyond the Carne,
seen playing all day long for wine, and called el Rastro, presents a no less
love, or coppers, in the sun, or under national scene on the Sabado Santa,
their vine-trellises, capital groupings which may be considered a holiday
and studies for artists. There is gene equivalent to our Easter Monday.
rally some well-known cock of the walk, There and then the Paschal lambs are
a bully, or guaqao, who will come up and sold, or corzleros de Pascua, as Easter
lay his hand on the cards, and say, “ No is termed in Spanish. The bleating
one shall play here but with mine”-~ animals are confined in pens of netted
aqui no se juega sino aon mic barajas-_ rope-work; on every side the work of
If the gamblers are cowed, they give slaughter is going on ; gipsies erect
him dos cua/rtos, a halfpenny each. If, temporary shambles on this occasion ;
however, one of the challenged be a groups of children are everywhere
spirited fellow, he defies him. Aqui leading away pet lambs, which are de
no se cobra el barato sino con un pufial corated with ribbons and flowers. The
deA.lbacete—“ You get no change here amateur will see in them and in their
except out of an Albacete knife.” If attitudes the living originals fromwhich
the defiance be accepted, vamos alla is Murillo faithfully copied his St. Johns
the answer—“ Let’s go to it.” There is and the infant Saviour, el divine Pastor.
an end then of the cards: all flock to the This buying and selling continues from
more interesting éca/rte’. Instances have the Saturday until the end of Monday.
occurred, where Greek meets Greek, of The huge mounds of rubbish oppo
their tying the two advanced feet to site are composed of the accumulated
gether, and yet remaining fencing with dungholes of Seville, and under them
knife and cloak for a quarter of an are buried those who have died of
hour before the blow be dealt. The plagues, which these Immondezzaios are
knife is held firmly, the thumb is enough to render endemic ; they were
pressed straight on the blade, and cal allowed to accumulate, while the clergy
culated either for the cut or thrust, managed to suppress theatres to pre
to chip bread and kill men. vent recurrence of plague, a punishment
The term Barato strictly means the from heaven.
present which is given to waiters who Returning to the walls are the ca
bring a new pack of cards. The origin valry barracks, inwhich men,horses,and
is Arabic, Baa/ra, “ a voluntary gift ;” saddles are occasionally wanting. Now
in the corruption of the Bwratero, it the Alcazar towers above the battle
has become an involuntary one; now mented girdle of walls to the rt. The
the term resembles the Greek Bugalgu, classical gate, San Fernando, was built
homo perditus, whence the Roman in 1760 ; here it was that the Virgin
Balatrones, the ruiners of markets, l miraculously introduced St. Ferdinand
Barathrumque Macelli; our legal term into Seville during the siege.
206 ROUTE 7.—sEvn.Ls—T11E memos ma msxcos. Sect. II.
verity of the church of Rome which is allowed to enter; nay, the ortho
will not tolerate error." According ‘ dox canons of the cathedral have a
to the best authorities, from 1481 tof separate quarter from the laity. Bu
1808, the Holy Tribunal of Spain ‘ rial out of towns—a hygienic neces
burnt 34,612 persons alive, 18,048 sity——was vehemently opposed by 'the
in efligy, and imprisoned 288,109 Spanish clergy, who lost their fees, and
but these vast numbers are questionable ‘ assured their flocks that those interred
—the goods and chattels of every one out of their parish churchyard, would
of them being first duly confiscated.‘ risk the neither resting in their graves,
In addition to these victims it entailed, nor rising at the resurrection. The cata
to poor, uncommercial, indolent Spain, comb system is here adopted : a niche
the expulsion of her wealthy Jews, and is granted for 80 reals for 6 or 7 years,
her most industrious agriculturists, the and the term can be renewed (preroga
Moors. The dangerous engine, when do) by a new payment. A large grave
the supply of victims was exhausted,~, or ditch is opened every day, into
recoiled on the nation, and fitted it for which the bodies of the poor are cast
that yoke, heavy and grievous, under like dogs, after being often first stripped
which for three centuries it has done by the sextons even of their rags.
penance; the works of Llorente have This cemetery should be visited on
fully revealed the secrets of priestcraft the last night of October, or All Hal
in power. The best account of an i lowe’en, and the vigil of All Saints’
Auto de Fe is the ofiicial report of José day; and again on Nov. 2, the day of
del Olmo, 4to., published at Madrid in All Souls, when all the town repairs
1680. there. It is rather a fashionable pro
Near the Quemadero is San Diego, a menade than a religious performance.
suppressed Jesuit convent, and given The spot is crowded with beggars, who
in 1784 to Mr. Wetherell, who was appeal to the tender recollections of
tempted by Spanish promises to ex one’s deceased relations and friends.
change the climate of Snow Hill, Hol Outside, a busy sale of nuts, sweet
born, for torrid Andalucia. Towns meats, and cakes takes place, andacrowd
hend 325) gives the details. This of horses, carriages, and noisy children,
intelligent gentleman, having been the all vitality and mirth, which must vex
first to establish a tannery with steam the repose of the blessed souls even
machinery in Spain, was ruined by the in purgatory (see ‘Gatherings,’ p. 250).
bad faith of the government, which Returning from San Sebastian to
failed in both payments and promises. Seville, the change from death at the
The property has now passed by a Pnerta de Xerez is striking: here all
Spanish trick into other hands, the is life and flower. This quarter, once
court of appeal having been induced tothe dunghill of the city, was converted
allow a false deed, or Escritura. Mr. into a Paradise by Jose Manuel Ar
Wetherell lics buried in his garden, jona, in 1830. This, the last Asistente
surrounded by those of his countrymen of SeviJle—ultimus Roman0rum—was
who have died in Seville: requiescant. its Augustus 1 to him are owing almost
in pace! The scene of a countryman’s all of the many modern improvements,
grave cut ofl’ in a foreign land is affect paving, lighting, cleansing, &c. The
ing, and doubly so to those who have principal walk was laid out by him in
left here a branch of themselves ; pull honour of Christina, then the young
out, therefore, the nettle which has no bride of Ferdinand VII. El Salon
business to grow here.—R. F. is a raised central saloon, with stone
On the other side of the plain was the seats around. In the afternoon and
great city cemetery of San Sebastian, evening all the “rank and fashion”
now moved N. not to offend the In assemble to promenade here. Beyond,
fanta who lived near it. Into this Ro along the bank of the river, are Lac
manist Necropolis no heretic, if dead, Delicias, a charming ride and walk.
Andalucia. ROUTE 7.—SEVILLE-—TORRE DEL ORO. 209
Here is the botanical garden, and truly by the Almohades, who called it
delicious are these nocturnal strolls. Bmju d-dahab, “the tower of gold,"
Night in the south is beautiful of itself. because their treasure was kept in it;
The sun of fire is set, and a balmy now it is only gilded by sunsets. It
breeze fans the scorched cheek: now was used by Don Pedro el Cruel, as 0.
the city which sleeps by day awakes to prison for his enemies and his mis
life and love, and bright eyes sparkle tresses. The Spaniards have built a
brighter than the stars. The semi sentry-box on the top of this Moorish
obscure, not too dark for them, hides tower, where their red and yellow flag
poverty and decay, and pleasant it is occasionally is hoisted.
to listen to the distant hum of the Passing on is the Aduana or Custom
guitar, and think that a whole town is house, a hotbed of queer dealings, which
harry lies between the Postigos de Ca/rbon and
At the land side of the walk is a del Aceite; inside are some pretty
huge pile of churrigueresque, long the Prout-like old houses for the artist.
nautical college of San Telmo, the pa Close by are “ the Atarazanas,” the
tron of Spanish sailors, who, when the Dar-san’-ah, or house of construction
storm is going to be over, appears at of the Moors, whence the Genoa term
the mast-head with a lambent flame. darsena, and our word arsenal. The
It was founded by Fernando, son of present establishment was founded by
Columbus, and built in 1682, by Anto Alonso el Sabio, and his Gotho-Latin
nio Rodriguez. Here the middies were inscription still remains imbedded in
taught navigation in a room, from a the wall near the C'a/ridad hospital.
small model of a three-decker. When Observe the blue azulqjos, said to be
the nautical college was removed to from designs by Murillo, who painted
Cadiz, as somewhat a sinecure, the the glorious pictures for the interior
Spanish fleet being a myth, the Duke (see p. 190). This modern arsenal,
of Montpensier and the Infanta bought which generally is miserably provided,
the building, and have very much im is never worth inspection: it is not
proved it, inside and outside. better provided with instruments for
The Puerta de Xerez, said to be built inflicting death than the wards of
by Hercules (Hercules meedg'fic0', p. 169), La Sangre are with those for preserving
was at all events rebuilt by the infidel. life. Misgoverned, ill-fated Spain,
Now the arroyo Tagarete reappears. which, in her salitrose table-lands, has
This rivulet, or rather Fleet-ditch, “villainous saltpetre” enough to blow
winds round the E. and W. sides of up the world, and copper enough at
Seville, and here empties itself and its Rio 'I‘into and at Berja to sheathe the
impurities into the Guaclalquivir. The Pyrenees, is of all countries the worst
filthy contents of this open sewer de provided in ammunition and artillery,
composing under the sun breed fever whether it be a batterie de cuisine or
and unhealthiness. Any real board of de citadel.
health would order it instantly to be Adjoining the arsenal is the quarter
covered over. The Moorish walls of the dealers of bacalao or salted cod
which hang over this stinking Styx fish. “You may nose them in the
once were painted in fresoo. Up to lobby.” This article long formed a
1821 they connected the Alcazar with most important item in national food.
the outpost river-guarding tower, called The numerous religious corporations,
Lajtorre del Ora, “of gold,” to dis and fast-days, necessarily required this,
tinguish it from La Torre de Plata, for fresh-water fish is rare, and sea
that “ of silver,” which lies nearer the; fish almost unknown, in the great cen
mint. These fine names are scarcely‘ tral para/meras of the Peninsula. The
sterling, both being built of Moorish shrivelled dried-up cod-fish is easily
tapia. The former one, most absurdly conveyed on muleback into uncarriage
ascribed to Julius Caesar, was raised able recesses. It is much consumed,
210 noun: 7.—SEVlLLE—PLAZA on TOROS. Sect. II.
mixed with rice, still all along thelcarts and carters resort; and also
tierra caliente, or warm zone of Spain, el Baratillo, the “little chepe,” from
Alicante being the port for the S. E., being a rag-fair, and place for the sale
as Seville is for the S. portions: ex of marine stores or stolen goods.
posed to the scorching sun, this salt Accordingly, the new public prison is
fish is anything but sweet, and our not ill placed here, on the site of the
readers when on a journey are cau old convent, del Populo. Near this is
tioned not to eat it, as it only creates the Plaza de Toms, which is a fine
an insatiable thirst, to say nothing of amphitheatre, and will hold more than
the unavailing remorse of a non-digest 12,000 spectators, although injured by
ing stomach. Leave it therefore to a hurricane in 1805 and unrepaired,
the dura ilia and potent solvents of especially on the cathedral side, which
muleteer gastric juices. At all events at least lets in the Giralda and com
it ought to be put many hours al pletes the picture, when the setting
remqjo, to soak in water, which takes sunrays gild the Moorish tower as
out the salt and softens it. The Car the last bull dies, and the populace
thaginians and ancients knew this so few nondu/m Zas.s'aia—unwillingly retire.
well that the first praise of a good cook This Plaza is underthe superintendence
was Scit muriatica ut maceret (Plaut. of the Maestranza of Seville. This
‘Poen.’ i. 2, 39). equestrian society of the highest rank
In this piscatose corner of Seville, was formed in 1526, to encourage tour
poverty delights to feed on the Ori naments and the spirit of chivalry
ental cold fried fish, and especially then wearing out; now the chief end
slices of large fioundcrs, whiting, and is the wearing a scarlet uniform.
small bits of bacalao fried i.n yolk of Tauromachian travellers will remem
eggs, called familiarly Soldads de ber the day before the fight to ride out
Pavia, because yellow was the uniform to Tablada to see the ganado, or what
of that regiment, and possibly in re cattle the bulls are, and go early the
membrance of the deficient commis next day to witness the encierro ; be
sariat of the victors of that day. Thesure also at the show to secure a boletin
lower classes are great fish-eaters: tode sombra in a balcon de1n'ed1'a,i. e.
this the fasts of their church and their
a good seat in the shade.
poverty conduce. They seldom boil Leaving the Plaza, we now approach
it, except in oil. Their principle is,el Rio, the River Strand, where a petty
when the fish has once left its native trafiic is carried on of fruit, mattings,
element, it ought never to touch it and goods brought up in barges; so
again. Here, as in the East, cold much for the scanty commerce of a
broiled fish is almost equivalent to meat city thus described four centuries ago
(St. Luke, xxiv. 4-2). by our pilgrim (Purchas, 1232) :—
_ Next observe the heraldic gate, del " Civyle! graund! that is so fre,
Arenal, of the Strand, and a sort of A paradise it is to behold,
Temple Bar; the contiguous streets The frutez vines and spicery thee I have told
have long been inhabited by denizens Upon the haven all manner of merchandise,
And karekes and schippes of all device."
of indifferent reputation; here the
rogue of a Ventero in Don Quixote was Here the hungry tide-waiters look out
educated; here Cervantes placed the for bribes, and an ofiicial post-captain
school of Jllonapodio, who in his Rin pompously announces the arrival of a
conete y Cortadillo, “ Hole-and-corner stray smack. A rude boat-bridge here
man and cut-purse,” gave the idea for ages stemmed the Guadalquivir,
of Fagin and “artful dodger” to and was at once inconvenient in pas
Dickens; but nothing is new under sage and expensive in repair: formerly
the sun, not even thimble-rigging, it was a ferry, until Yusuf abu Yacub
¢¥i¢wrmZm. The open space in front first threw across some barges Oct. 11,
is called la Ca/rreteria, because here 1171, by which the city was provi
Andalusia. noun: 7.—SEVILLE—-TRIAXA. 211
sioned from the fertile Ajamfe ,- the by the dficion, by fancy men and Majos,
destruction of this communication by who love low company: this is the
St. Ferdinand led to the surrender of i place to behold a funcion de gitanos,
Seville. This bridge of boats has been got up in all the glory of Gaditanian
for ages a source of profit to the com dancing, jaleos y arafias, an fesiejo de
missioners, who have received funds genie buena con muchissimo mostagan.
suflicient to have built one of marble : - To the rt., on crossing the bridge,
a suspension bridge has since been are some remains of the once formi
erected, and was inaugurated in June, dable Moorish castle, which was made
1852, and blessed by the priests. The ' the first residence of the Inquisition,
people at first were afraid to cross the the cradle of that fourth Fury. The
heretical bridge——a puente del Dialzlo, Guadalquivir, which blushed at the
or del Ingles, although the first ston fires and curdled with the bloodshed,
was sanctified by the Dean. - almost swept away this edifice in 1626,
Next observe el T1-imgfo, a monu as if indignant at the crimes committed
ment common in Spanish towns, and on its bank. The tribunal was then
raised in honour of the triu/mph ob moved to the Calle San Marcos, and
tained by the advocates of the Imma afterwards to the Alameda Viqja. The
culate Conception; a statue of the ruined castle was afterwards taken
Virgin and local tutelars are usually down, and the site converted into the
placed on the erection ; the Doric gate present market.
which here leads into the town is The parish church, Santa An/na, was
called la Puerta de Triana, because built by Alonso el Sabio, in 1276 : the
facing that suburb: it was erected in image of the “ Mother of the Virgin,”
1588, and is attributed to Herrera. in the high altar, is a Virgen aparecida,
The upper story was used as a state or a divinely revealed palladium, and
prison—a Newgate: here the Conde is brought out in public calamities, but
del Aguila, the Msecenas of Seville, as a matter of etiquette it never crosses
was murdered by the patriots, urged the bridge, which would be going out
on by the Catiline Tilli (see Schep. i. of its parochial jurisdiction: in the
269, and Doblado’s Letters. p. 439). Trascoro is a curious Virgin, painted
The plain beyond was formerly el and signed by Alejo Fernandez ; in the
Perneo, or the pig-market ; during the plateresque Retablo are many fine
cholera, in 1833, the unclean animals Campanas, especially a “St. George,”
were removed to the meadows of the which has much of a G-iorgione. The
virgin patronesses Justa and Rufina, statues and bas-reliefs are by Pedro
behind San Agustin, and the space Delgado. Visit the church Nuastra
made into an esplanade: now re-enter Sefiora del O; many females are here
ing by the Puerta Real, the circuit is christened with this vowel. Great
concluded. quantities of coarse azulqjo and Zoza,
Of course the traveller will ride out earthenware, are still made here as in
some day to Alcald de Guadaira (see the days of Santas Justa and Rufina.
p. 159). The naranjales, or orange-gardens, are
A smaller and home circuit should worth notice. The principal street is
also be made on the rt. bank of the called tle Castilla .- here the soap
Guadalquivir, crossing over to the makers lived, whence our term Castile
suburb Triana, the Moorish Taray soap. (?) There is a local history, “Apa
anah,_a name supposed to be a cor rato rle Triana,” Justino Matute, Se
ruption from Trajana, Trajan having villa-, 1818.
been born near it, at Italica. It is the To the rt., a short walk outside Tri
Trzmstevere of Seville, and the favourite ana, and on the bank cf the river, is the
residence of gipsies, bull-fighters, smug Cartuja Convent, dedicated to Nuestm
glers, robbers, and other picturesque. Sefiora de las Cuevas, and begun in
rascals; hence it is much frequented 1400 by Arch. B. Mena: the funds left
212 noun: 7.——SEVILLE—THE camera. Sect. II.
by him were seized by the Government, assert that the poet Silius Italicus was
always needy and always unprincipled. born here ; but then the epithet would
Finished by Pier Afan de Ribera, it have been Italicensis: his birth-place
became a museum of piety, painting, is unknown ; probably he was an
sculpture, and architecture, until el Italian, for Martial, his friend, never
iiempo de los Franceses, when, accord alludes to his being a paisano, or
ing to Laborde, 263, “ Le Ml. Soult fellow-countryman. From his admi
en fit une excellente cit-adelle, dent ration and imitation of Virgil he was
l’Eglise devint le magasin; la Biblio called his ape. To the Spanish anti
theque ne valoit rien ; elle a servi pour quarian he is valuable from having in
faire des gargousses ” (cartridges) ; un troduced so many curious notices in
like our Essex at Cadiz in 1596, who his Punica. Pliny J’. (Ep. 7) thus
ordered the fine Ora/rio library to be pre justly describes his style: Silius scribe
served, and gave it to Bodley, and many bat carmina majore cum‘ quam ingenio.
of thebooks are stillpreserved at Oxford; Italica was preserved by the Goths,
the silver full-length saints, San Bruno, and made the see of a bishop : Leovi
&c., were melted by Soult into francs. gild, in 584, repaired the walls when he
Sequestered latterly, and sold, the con was besieging Seville, then the strong
vent has been turned into a pottery by hold of his rebel son Hermenigildo.
Mr. Pickman, a worthy Englishman, The name Italica was corrupted by the
who, not making the chapel his maga Moors into Talikah, Talca ; and in old
zine, has preserved it for holy purposes. deeds the fields are termed los ca/mpos
Now the drones are expelled, the block de Talca, and the town Seville lw 'v'iq;'a.
of the convent is the hive of busy ce The ruin of Italica dates from the river
ramic bees, originally swammed in Eng having changed its bed, a common trick
land. Mr. Pickman, a foreigner, warned in wayward Spanish and Oriental
by Mr. VVetherall’s fate, took into part streams. Thus Gour, once on the
nership certain natives. Observe the Ganges, is now deserted. The Moors
fine rose window in the facade, and the soon abandoned a town and “a land
stones recording the heights of frequent which the rivers had spoiled,” and
inundations ; inquire in the garden for selected Seville as a better site ; and
the old burial-ground, where foreigners ever since the remains have been used
now rest, and the Gothic inscription of as a quarry. Consult “ Bosquejo de
the age of Hermenegildo. N.B. Its Italica,” Justine Matute, Sevilla, 1827 ;
oranges are delicious. 4177.
and forOfthe
these
medals,
many,
Florez,
chiefly“ Med.,”
copper or
Following the banks of a stream we
reach the miserable village of Santi small silver coins, are found and offered
Ponce, a corruption from the name of for sale to foreigners by the peasants,
San Geroncio, its Gothic bishop, or, who, with a view of recommending
according to others, of Santa P020, the their wares, polish them bright, and
“holy wellz” it was the once ancient rub oil‘ the precious bloom, the patina
Italica, the birthplace of the Emperors and nerugo, the sacred rust of twice ten
Trajan, Adrian, and Theodosius ; it hundred years.
was founded U.o. 5/L7, on the site of the . On Dec. 12, 1799, a fine mosaic
Iberian town Sancios, by Scipio Afri pavement was discovered, which a poor
canus, and destined as a home for his monk, named Jose Moscoso, to his
veterans (App. “B. H.” 463). It was honour, enclosed with a wall, in order
adorned by Adrian with sumptuous to save it from the usual fate in Spain.
edifices. The citizens petitioned to Didot, in 1802, published for Laborde
become a Colonic, that is, subject to a splendid folio, with engravings and
Rome, instead of remaining a free description. The traveller will find a
Municipium .- even Adrian was sur copy in the cathedral library in the
prised at this Andalucian servility Patio de Zos Naramjos, at Seville. Now
(Aul. Gell. xvi. 13). Many Spaniards this work is all that remains, for the
Anda-lucia. noun; 7.—SEVILLE—ITALICA. 213
soldiers of M. Soult converted the in 1570, and the body of thegood man,
enclosure into a goat-pen. according to Matute (p. 156), “ found
The amphitheatre lies outside the almost entire, and nine feet high;”
old town. On the way ruins peep out here lies also Doiia Uraca Osorio, with
amid the weeds and olive-groves, like her maid Leonora Davalos at her feet.
the grey bones of dead giants. The She was burnt alive by Pedro the Cruel
amphitheatre, in 1774.~, was used by the for rejecting his addresses. A portion
corporation of Seville for river dikes, of her chaste body was exposed by
and for making the road to Badajoz. the flames which consumed her dress,
See the details, by an eye-witness, whereupon her attendant, faithful in
“ Viaje Topografico des-de Granada ¢i death, rushed into the fire, and died in
.Disb0a,” duo. 1774, p. 70. The form concealing her mistress.
is, however, yet to be traced, and the The Feria de Santi Ponce, in the
broken tiers of seats. The scene is sad beginning of October, is the Green
and lonely ; read in it by all means the wich fair of Seville, and all the rage
sweet ode by Rioja. A few gipsies just now: then booths are erected in
usually lurk among the vaults. The = the ancient bed of the river, which
visitors scramble over the broken seats becomes a scene of Mqjeza and their
of once easy access, frightening the , Jaleos.The holiday folk, in all their
large and glittering lizards or Lagarios, Andalucian finery, return at nightfall
which hurry into the rustling brambles. in Carreias filled with Gitanas y Cor
Behind, in a small valley, a limpid raleras, while los majos y los de la
stream still trickles from a font and still aficlon (fancy) vuelven 6 caballo, con
tempts the thirsty traveller, as it once sus queriditas en ancas. Crowds of
did the mob of Italica when heated the better classes come or used to come
with games of blood. out to see this procession, and sit on
The rest of Italica either sleeps chairs in the Calle de Castilla, which
buried under the earth, or has been resounds with requiebros, and is en
carried away by builders. To the west livened with exhibitions of small horns
are some vaulted brick tanks, called made of ba/rro, the type of the Cornudo
La Ca-ya de los Baiios. They were the paciente of Seville; the civilization of
reservoirs of the aqueduct brought by the coat, alas ! is effacing these nation
Adrian from Tejada, 7 L. distant. alities ; already the females are quitting
Occasionally partial excavations are ‘ their charming costume for bonnets 6
made, but all is done by fits and starts, la Francoise and Manchest cottons ;
and on no regular plan: the thing is then with their dark faces, white gowns,
taken up and put down by accident and gaudy ribbons, they put one in
and caprice, and the antiques found are mind of May-day chimney-sweeps.
usually of a low art. The site was pur The traveller may return from Ita
chased, in 1301, by Guzman el Bueno, lica to Seville by a different route,
(see p. 149,) who founded the castellated keeping under the slopes of the hills :
convent San Isidoro as the burial-place opposite Seville, on the summit to the
of his family. The sacred pile, built rt., is Castileja de la Cuesla, from
like those in Syria, and near the infidel, whence the view is fine and extensive.
half fortress and half convent, was Here, at No. 66, Calle Real, lived
gutted and ruined by Soult on his Fernan Cortes, and died Dec. 2, 1547,
final evacuation of Andalucia, and next aged 63, a broken-heart-ed victim, like
was made a prison for galley slaves. Ximenez, Columbus, Gonzalo de Cor
The chapel is, however, preserved for dova, and others, of his king’s and
the village church. Observe the sta country’s ingratitude. He was first
tues of San Isidoro and San Jeronimo buried in San Isidoro at Italica, until
by Montafies,and the efiigies of Guzman his bones, like those of Columbus,
and his wife, who lie buried beneath, after infinite movings and changings
date from 1609. The tomb was opened of sepulture, at last reached Mexico,
214 noun: 7.—SEVILLE—-ORANGES. Sect. II.
the scene of his glories and crimes delicious orange-flower water; buy it
during life; not however doomed to rest at Aquilar’s, Plaza San Vicente ,~ nice
even there, for in 1823 the local patriots sweetnieats are made of them by the
intended to disinter the foreigner, and nuns ; to eat the orange in perfection,
scatter his dust to the winds. They it should not be gathered until the new
were anticipated by pious fraud, and blossom appears. The oranges begin
the illustrious ashes removed to a new to turn yellow in October, and are
abode, where, if the secret be kept, then picked, as they never increase in
they may at last find rest. size after changing colour; they are
Keeping/the hill Uhaboya to the rt., wrapped in Catalan paper, and acked
we reach San Juan de Atfa/rache, Hisn in chests, which contain from O0 to
al-faraj, “of the fissure or cle ;” it 1000 each, and may be worth to the
was the Moorish river key of Seville, exporter from 25s. to 308. They ripen
and the old and ruined walls still on the voyage, but the rind gets tough,
crown the heights. This was the site and the freshness of the newly-gathered
of the Roman Julia Constantia, the fruit is lost. The natives are very fan
Gothic Osset, and the scene of infinite ciful about eating them: they do not
aqueous miracles during the Arian think them good before March, and
controversy : a font yet remains in the . poison if eaten after sunset. The
chapel. Read the inscription concern vendors in the street cry them as mas
ing the self-replenishing of water every zlulces que abmiba/r, sweeter than syrup,
Thursday in the Semana Santa; con like the “ Honey, oh! oranges honey”
sult the quarto Sobre la milagrosa of the Cairo chapmen.
fuente, by Josef Santa Maria, Sev. 1630, Toma, nifia, esa narnnja,
and the Esp. Sa_g., ix. 117. Strabo, Que la cogi de mi huerta;
however (iii. 261), points out among No la parlas con navnja
Que esta mi corazon dentro.
the marvels of Beetica certain wells and
fountains which ebbed and flowed spon The village below the hill of Alfa
taneously. Observe the Retablo, with rache, being exempt from the odious
pictures by Castillo, which originally Derecho dc louertas, and being a plea
existed in the San Juan de la Palma. sant walk, is frequented on holidays
The panorama of Seville, from the by the Sevillian s, who love cheap drink,
convent parapet, is charming. On the &c. Those who remember what pre
opposite side of the river is the fine ceded the birth of El Picaro Guzman
Na/ra/njal or orange-grove of the house de Alfarache—a novel so well trans
of Beck, which is worth riding to. lated by Le Sage—may rest assured
“ Seville,” says Byron, and truly, “is that matters are not much changed.
a pleasant city, famous for oranges and Gelves, Gelduba, lies lower down the
women.” There are two sorts of the river. This village gives the title of
former, the sweet and the bitter (Ara Count to the descendants of Colum
bicé Na/rang, unde Naranja), of which bus: the family sepulchre is left in
Scotch marmalade is made and Dutch disgraceful neglect.
Curaqoa flavoured. The trees begin to
bear fruit about the sixth year after Exounsron TO AN OLIVE-FARM. ‘
they are planted, and the quality con The olives and oil of Bsetica were
tinues to improve for 16 to 20 years, celebrated in antiquity, and still form
after which the orange degenerates, a staple and increasing commodity of
the rind gets thick, and it becomesAndalucia. The districts between Se
unfit for the foreign market, which ville and Alcalii, and in the Ajarafe,
always takes the best. The trees flower are among the richest in Spain: an
in March, and perfume the air of Seville excursion should be made to some
with the almost sickening odour which large Hacienda in order to examine
retains its Arabic name Azahar ; from the process of the culture and the ma
the blossoms sweetmeats are made, and nufacture, which are almost identical
Andalucia. acorn 7.—SEVILLE—OLIVE FARM. 215
with those described by Varro, Colu wife and sisters drive the laden donkeys
mella, and Pliny. Formerly Seville to the mill. The ancients never beat
was surrounded with splendid Hacien the trees (Plin. Nat. Hist. xv. 3). The
das, which combined at once a country berries are emptied into a vat, El
house, a village, and oil-manufactory: tmjal, a‘nd are not picked and sorted,
the fiestas, y comzites de campo, kept as Columella (xii. 50) enjoined. The
here by the wealthy proprietors, were careless Spaniard is rude and un
celebrated before the ruin entailed by scientific in this, as in his wine-making ;
Buonaparte’s invasion, as few have been he looks to quantity, not quality. The
able to restore their ravaged esta berries are then placed on a circular
blishments. \Vhole plantations of hollowed stone, over which another is
olives wereburnt down by Soult’ s troops, moved by a mule; the crushed mass,
while our Duke issued strict orders horujo, bomjo, is shovelled on to round
forbidding this ruinous practice; mat mats, czmuchos, made of esparto, and
ters are, however, mending, thanks to taken to the press, eZ trujal, which is
the great exports of oil to England. forced down by a very long and
San Ba/riolomé, a farm belonging to weighty beam (the precise Biga, Tra
the Paterna family, may be visited as petum, slaw Tplcimfl), composed of 6 or
a fine specimen of a first-rate Haci 7 pine-trees, like a ship’s bowsprit,
enda; it contains about 20,000 trees, over which, in order to resist the
each of which will yield from 2 to 3 strain, a heavy tower of maso is
bushels of olives; the whole produce built; a score of frails of the borugo
averages 5000 arrobas (of 25 lb.), which is placed under the screw, moistened
vary in price from 2 to 5 dollars. The with hot water, which is apt to make
olive-tree, however classical, is very the oil rancid. The liquor as it
unpicturesque ; its ashy leaf on a pol flows out is passed into a reservoir
larded trunk reminds one of a second below ; the residuum comes forth
rate willow-tree, while it aifords neither like a damson-cheese, and is used for
shade, shelter, nor colour. fuel and for fattening pigs; the oil
The trees are usually planted in as it rises on the water is skimmed
formal rows: a branch is cut from the I off, and poured into big-bellied earthen
parent in January ; the end is opened | jars, tinajas, and then removed into
into 4 slits, into which a. stone is lstill larger, which are sunk into the
placed; it is then planted, banked, ground. These amphoraz, made cliiefiy
and watered for 2 years, and as it at Coria, near Seville, recall the jars of
grows is pruned into 4 or 5 upright the forty thieves ; some will hold from
branches: they begin to pay the ex 200 to 300 arrobas, i.e. from 800 to
pense about the 10th year, but do not 1200 gallons. ~ \
attain their prime before the 30th. The oil, aceite (Arabice azzait), is
The best soils are indicated by the strong and unctuous, and the real juice
wild-olive (oleaster, acebuche), on which of the berry, and not equal perhaps in
cuttings are grafted, and produce the delicacy to the purer, finer produce of
finest crops (Virgil, G. 182). The Lucca, but the Spaniards, from habit,
Spaniards often sow corn in their think the Italian oil insipid. The
olive grounds, contrary to the rule of second-class oils are coarse, thick, and
Columella, for it exhausts the soil, green-coloured, and are exported for
clmpa la tierra. soap-making or used for lamps. Can
The berry is picked in the autumn, dles are rare in Spain, where the an
when it is purple-coloured and shining, cient lamp, el celon or candil (Arabice
baccae splendentis divse : then the scene » lcamleel), prevail, and are exactly such
is busy and picturesque; the peasant, as are found at Pompeii; the growers of
clad in sheep-skins, is up in the trees ' oil petitioned against lighting Spanish
like a satyr, beating off the fruit, while towns with gas, “lamps being prefer
his children pick them up, and his ; able to this thing of the foreigner.” A
l
ir
large farm is a little colony; the la are now worked by the Reunion
bourers, fcd by the proprietor, are Company.
allowed bread, garlic, salt, oil, vinegar,
and pimientos, which they make into
migaa and oriental gazpacho (Arabice,
soaked bread), without which, in the Rourn 8.—Ssv1LI.n TO R10 Tmro
burning summers, their “ souls would AND ALMADEN.
be dried away” (Numb. xi. 6). Bread, 1-‘
oil, and water was a lover’s gift (Hosea
Venta de Pajanosa $52
Algarrobo . . . . .
ii. 5). The oil and vinegar are kept Castillo de has Guardias . GOIQDJO-7fllU\|FB)—*GpI-'U\9 Ii-7
in cow-horns (“the horn of oil,” 1 Sam. Rio Tinw .
Aracena . . .
xvi. 13), which hang at their cart sides. Fuentes fie Leon
Tlllfl daily allowance, Eurlouvlav ‘H;4:eo Segura de Leon.
'rea¢)1;, Choeniar, corresponds minutely Valencia. . . .
Fuente de Cantos .
with the usages of antiquity as described Llerena . .
by Cato (R. R. 56), and Stuckius Guadalcanal,
(Antliq. Conviv. i. 22; ed. 1695). The Fuente Ovejuna
use of oil is of the greatest antiquity Velalcazar .
Almaden . .
(Job xxiv. 2) : it supplies the want of Santa Eufemia . . . .
fat in the lean meats of hot climates. Al viso de los Pedroches .
Villanueva del Duque.
The olive forms the food of the Vlllahartc. or Villarta .
poorer classes. The ancient distinc Cordova . . .
tions remain unchanged. The first
class, Regiaz, Majorinw, are still called This is a riding tour of bad roads
lac Reynas, les Pad/ronas. The finest and worse accommodations; attend,
are made from the gordal, which only therefore, to the provend; and get
grows in a circuit of 5 L. round letters of introduction to the superin
Seville: the berry is gathered before tendents of the mines. The distances
quite ripe, in order to preserve the must be taken approximately, as they
green colour: it is pickled for 6 days are mountain leagues. The botany is
in a Salmueru, or brine, made of highly interesting, and game abundant.
water, salt, thyme, bay-laurel, and A double-barrel gun is useful in more
garlic; without this, the olive would respects than one. For some remarks
putrefy, as it throws out a mould, on mines in Spain and the most useful
mzta. The middling, or second classes, books, see Oartagena, and p. 339.
are called lax Medianas, also Zas M0 Passing through Italica, the high
radas, from their purple colour; these road to Badajoz is continued to the
are often mixed in a strong pickle, and Venta de Po;-janosn, 4 L. ; then a rude
then are called Alifiadas: the worst track turns ofl' to the l. over a waste of
sort are the Rebusco, Recuses, or the cistus and aromatic flowers to Al_gar
refuse; these, well begarlicked and be- g rolzo, 1 L., a small hamlet, where bait.
pickled, form a staple article of food Hence 3 L. over a similar country to a
for the poor. The olive is nutritious, mountain village, Castillo de las Guar
but heating; the better classes eat them dias, so called from its Moorish watch
sparingly, although a few are usually fort : here we slept. 5 L., overalonely
placed in saucers at their dinners; they idshesa, lead next day to Rio Tinto,
have none of the ancient luxury, those ‘where there is a decent posada. The
Aselli Corinthii, or silver donkeys, l red naked sides of the copper moun
lnded with panrziers of different co-, tain, La Cabeza Colorada, with clouds
loured olives (Petr. Arb. 31; Ovid, of smoke curling over dark pine-woods,
Met. viii. 664). announce from afar these celebrated
The geologist may visit Villanueva‘ mines. The immediate approach to
del Rio, 7 L. from Seville, and examine the hamlet is like that to a minor in
the coal mines, which, long neglected,; fernal region; the road is made of
Andalucia, ROUTE 8.—n1o TINTO. 217
burnt ashes and escorim, the walls are in the Cabeza Colorada. Entering the
composed of lava-like dross, while hag shaft, you soon descend by a well, or
gard miners, with sallow faces and pozo, down a ladder, to an under gal
blackened dress, creep about, fit deni lery: the heat increases with the depth,
zens of the place; the green coppery as there is no ventilation; at the bottom
stream which winds under the bank of I the thermometer stands at 80 Fahr.,
firs is the tinged river, from whence and the stout miners, who drive iron
the village takes its name: flowing out wedges into the rock previously to
of the bowels of the mountain, it is ‘blasting, work almost naked, and the
supposed to be connected with some few clothes they have on are perfectly
internal undiscovered ancient conduit : drenched with perspiration ; the scene
the purest copper is obtained from it; is gloomy, the air close and poisonous,
iron bars are placed in wood en troughs, the twinkling flicker of the miners’
which are immersed in the waters ; tapers blue and unearthly; here and
the cascara, or flake of metal, deposited i there figures,with lamps at theirbreasts,
on it is knocked ofi' ; the bar is then ‘flit about like the tenants of the halls
subjected to the same process until i of Eblis, and disappear by ladders into
completely eaten away. The water is the deeper depths. Melancholy is the
deadly poisonous, and stains and cor sound of the pick of the solitary work
rodes everything that it touches. man, who, alone in his stone niche, is
These mines were perfectly well hammering at his rocky prison, like
known to the ancients, whose shafts some confined demon endeavouring to
and galleries are constantly being dis force his way to light and liberty.
covered. The Romans and Moors The copper is found in an iron
appear chiefly to have worked on the pyrites, and yields about five per cent.
N. side of the hill; the enormous ‘The stalactites are very beautiful; for
accumulation of escoriales show to zwherever the water trickles through
what an extent they carried on opera the roof of the gallery, it forms icicles,
tions. as it were, of emeralds and amethysts ;
The village is built about a mile _‘ but these bright colours oxidize in the
from the mines, and was raised by one ‘open air, and are soon changed to a
Liberto Wolters, a Swede, to whom i dun brown. When the Zafra, or
Philip V. had granted a lease of the rough ore, is extracted, it is taken to
mines, which reverted to the crown in the Calcinacion, on the brow of the
1783. Paralysed b the French inva hill, and is there burnt three times in
sion, in 1829 it was armed to Seiior Re the open air; the sulphur is sublimated
misa for 20 years. It is principally oc and lost, as it passes off in clouds of
cupied by the miners, but the empleados smoke; the rough metal, which looks
and oflicial people have a street to like a sort of iron coke, is next carried
themselves. The view from above the to be smelted at houses placed near the
church is striking ; below lies the stream, by whose water-power the
town with its green stream and orange bellows are set in action. The metal
groves; to the l. rises the ragged copper is first mixed with equal parts of char
hill, wrapped in sulphureous wreaths of coal and escoriales, the ancient ones
smoke; while to the rt. the magnifi being preferred, and is then fused with
cent flat fir bank, la mesa de Zoe pines, _ breza, a sort of fuel composed of cistus
which supplies fuel to the furnaces, is and rosemary. The iron flows away
backed by a boundless extent of cistus like lava, and the copper is precipitated
clad hills, rising one over another. into a pan or copella below. It is then
A proper olficer will conduct the refined in ovens, or reverberos, and
traveller over the mines, who thus fol loses about a third of its weight; the
lows the ore through every stage of the scum and impurities as they rise to the
process, until it becomes pure copper; > surface are scraped ofl' with a wooden
visit therefore the Castillo dc Solomon hoe. The pure copper is then sent
Spain.-—I. I4
218 nourn 8.-—SEVII.LE, TENTUDIA. Sect. II.
convent-crowned sierra, has a truly has been said that the Jews were called
Oriental look : inside all is decay. The Putos, quia put-ant ; certainly, as at Gib
diligence inn is at the other end of the raltar, an unsavoury odour seems genti
town. Those only passing through litious in the Hebrew, but not more
Cordova should get out at the bridge, so than in the orthodox Spanish monk.
look at the Alcazar and Mosque, then Boetica, besides blood, was renowned
thread the one long street and take up for brains; and the genius and ima
the coach; and as most of them usually gination of the Cordovese authors asto
breakfast or sleep here, stopping in the nished ancient Rome. Seneca (De
first case about 2 h., ample time is Suas. 6 sub fin.), quoting Cicero, speaks
thus given to see the Jllezquita. Those of the “pingue quiddam atque pere
going to ride to Granada will find the grinum” as the characteristic of the
Posada del Sol, or del Puente, humble, style of Sextilius Ena, one of the poets
although truly Spanish, more conve of facunda Cordoba, the birthplace of
niently situated, as being close to the himself, the unique Lucan, the two
mosque and bridge; it is the resort of Senecas, and of other Spaniards who,
muleteers. N.B. Drink Montilla wine. writing even in Latin, sustained the
Coanovn retains its time-honoured decline of Roman poetry and lite
name. Cor is a common Iberian pre rature ; not but what the turgid Lucans
fix, and tuba is said to mean important, of Spain corrupted the pure Augustan
Karta tuba. Bochart, however, reads style of Italy of old, as the Cordovese
Coteba, the Syrian coteb, “oil-press ;” Gongora did in modern times. In
the trapeta (Mart. vii. 28) for which these older works must be sought the
this locality has long been renowned. real diagnostics of Iberian style. The
Corduba, under the Carthaginians, was Andalucians exhibited a marvellous
the “gem of the South,” It sided (for Spaniards) love of foreign litera
with Pompey, and was therefore half ture. Pliuy, jun. (ii. 3), mentions an
destroyed by Caesar: 23,000 inhabit inhabitant of Cadiz who went from
ants were put to death in terrorem. His thence, then the end of the world, to
lieutenant Marcellus (Hirt, ‘ B. A.’ 57) Rome, on pm-pose to see Livy; and
rebuilt the city, which was repeopled having feasted his eyes, returned imme
by the pauper patricians of Rome; diately ; St. Jerome names another An
hence its epithet, “ Patricia ;” and dalucian, one Lacrinus Licinius, who
pride of birth still is the boast of this oifered Pliny 400,000 nummi for his
poor and servile city, La cepa ole Cor then unfinished note-books. Oes beam:
dova is the aristocratic “ stock,” like the jowrs sum! passés, for now no Anda
ceti of Cortona in Italy, The Great lucian would lose one bull-fight for all
Captain, who was born near Cordova, the lost Decades of twenty Livys.
used to say that “ other towns might be Cordova, under the Goths, was
better to live in, but none were better termed “holy and learned.” Osius,
to be born in.” As the Cordovese the counsellor of Constantine and the
barbs were of the best blood, so the friend of St. Athanasius, who punningly
nobles protested theirs to be of the called him 'ruvaunn;, was its bishop from
bluest. This san re azul or sangre am, 294 to 357: he presided at the Council
the azure ichor o this élite of the earth, of Nice, which was the first to condemn
is so called in contra/distinction to prohibited books to the fire. Under
common red blood, the puddle which the Moors, Cordova became the Athens
flows in Plebeian veins; while the blood of the West, or, in the words of Rasis,
of heretics, Lutherans, Protestants, and the “nurse of science, the cradle of
political enemies, is held by Spanish captains.” It produced Avenzoar, or,
sangrados and heralds to be black, to write more correctly, Abdel Malek
pitchy, and therefore combustible. Ibn Zohr, and Averroes, whose proper
The blood of Jews especially is thought name is Abu Abdallah Ibn Roshd ; he
to be both sable and to stink; and it it was who introduced Aristotle to
Andalucia. noun: 9.-Moor.1sH nvrmsrnxs. 225
Europe, and, in the words of Dante, Mahomet, the Emir al Mumenin, the
“i1 gran commento feo.” The wealth, Commander of the Faithful ; the dis
luxury, and civilization of Cordova, tant kingdom in 756 declared itself
under the Beni-Ummeyah dynasty, independent, and rose to be the capital
almost seems an Aladdin tale; yet of the Moorish empire of Spain, under
G-ayangos has demonstrated its his Abderahman (Abdu-r-rahman, the ser
torical accuracy. All was swept away vant of the compassionate). He was
by the Berbers, true Barbarians, who the head and last remaining heirof his
burnt palace and library. dynasty,the Ummeyah,Which had been
Spanish Cordova for some time pro expelled from the East by the Abasside
duced sons worthy of its ancient usurpers. No fiction of romance ever
renown. Juan de Mena, the Chaucer, surpassed the truth of his eventful life.
the morning star of Spanish poetry, Under him Cordova became the Kali
was born here in 1412; as was Am fate of the West, ‘and the rival of
brosio Morales, the Hearne, the Leland Baghdad and Damascus, and was the
of the Peninsula, in 1513, at No.10, centre of power and civilization in
Calle del Oabildo Viejo ; so also Tomas the West, and this at a time when
Sanchez, the Jesuit, and author of the weakness, ignorance, and barbarism
celebrated treatise De Matrimonio, que shrouded over the rest of Europe.
le sapeva mas del Demonic. The This revolt in Spain dealt the death
abominations of the modern Dens are blow to the Kalifate of the East, and
blank cartridges to this cloaca of was followed by the loss of Africa.
casuistic filth; yet the author was From the 9th to the 12th century
innocent of any obscene intentions, and Baghdad was eclipsed by Cordova,
treated the case simply as a surgeon which contained in the tenth century
dissects a subject. The best and nearly a. million inhabitants, 300
uncastrated edit. is that of Antwerp, 3 mosques, 900 baths, and 600 inns. It
vols. fol. 1607. Here, in 1538, was withered under the Spaniard ; and, rich
born Pablo de Cespedes, the painter and learned under Roman and Moor,
and poet, overrated by Spaniards ; and is now a dirty, benighted, ill-provided,
in1561, Luis de Gongora, theEuphu.ist ; decaying place, with a population about
here, in Sa/n Nicolas, Gonzalo de Cor 55,000.
dova,the great (and truly great) Captain The most flourishing period was an.
of Spain was baptised. Well, therefore, 1009. The Moorish dynasties are
might Juan de Mena follow Rasis i.n usually divided into four periods :-
addressing his birthplace as “ the The first extended from 711 to 756.
flower of knowledge and knighthood.” Then the newly-conquered peninsula
Cordova was always celebrated for was called the Island, Gezirah, and
its silversmiths, who came originally those portions which were not under
from Damascus, and continue to this the Moslem Velad Arrum, the land
day to work in that chased filigree of the Romans, as the Goths were
style. Juan Ruiz, El Vandolino, is the termed. During the first period Spain
Cellini of Cordova. Thejo_1/a.§~—Ara was governed by Amirs, deputed by
bicéjauka/r, brilliant———and earrings of the Kalif of Damascus. The second
the peasantry deserve notice, and every period commenced when Abdu-r-rah
- now and then some curious antique eme man declared his independence, and
rald-studded jewellerymaybe pickedup. made Cordova his capital, whence he
Roman Cordova resisted the Goths was called Al-dakkel, “ the enterer,”
until 572, but Gothic Cordova was the conqueror. This period extended
taken by the Moors at once by from 756 to 1036, and its dynasty
Mugueith el Rumi, the Mogued of declined about 1031, under Hisham
Spanish writers ; at first it became an III., having given 17 sultans. The
appanage of the Kluzlifa of Damascus. Moorish power in Spain, which was
The successor and representative of founded by the Ummeyahs, fell with
L3
226 noura 9.—CORDOVA-—RlSE AND FALL. Sect. II.
them. Now, in the third period, two quest, and terminated the Mohamedan
factions took the lead in the divided’ dynasties in Spain. The Cordovese
house; first, the Almoravides-Mura» power rose with the master-minded
bitins (Rdbitos, or men consecrated to Abderahmans, and was maintained by
the service of God, the types of the Al Mansur, the mighty captain-minister
Christian knights of Santiago), and of Hisham. Even then a germ of
secondly, their rivals, and by whom weakness existed, for the Kalif of
they were put down in 1146, viz. the Damascus never forgave the casting
Almohades, or Unitarian Dissenters, oil‘ his allegiance: he made treaties
or fanatics (Al Muevahedun); they with the French against the Cordovese,
were headed by Ibn-Abdallah, a Berber while the Cordovese allied themselves
lamplightcr, who persuaded the mob with the emperor of Constantinople,
to believe that he was the Mehedi, or as the rival of the Eastern kalif. Both
“ only director,” in the paths of virtue. parties occasionally used the services
There was no tyranny, no Vandalism, of the Jews, renegades, mongrels, Mu
which this Jack Cede in a turban did wallads (disbelievers), and especially
not commit. This degrading domina t-he Barbers, deadly foes to the Cordo
tion ceascd about 1227,when the whole vese Moors, whom they abhorred as
Moorish system was shivered to pieces descendants of Yemen and Damascus,
like the fragments of the exploding and as their dispossessors, for they
shell, or flike those molluscae, which, claimed Spain as theirs in right of
when divided, have such vitality, that their Carthaginian ancestors, who had
each portion becomes a new living fled to the mountains of the Atlas
creature) became independent, “Quot from the Romans. These highlanders,
urbes tot reges ;” each portion becom although Pagans, and utterly barba
ing the prey of some petty ruler, who rous, thought themselves alone to be
being all rival upstarts, never acted the salt of the earth, and assumed the
cordially together. They were sheiks, epithet amarzcegh, or nobles. At once
however, rather than kings, and such the strength and weakness oftheMoors,
as those of which Joshua in the East, first they aided in conquering the
and the Cid in the West, overcame so Goths, and then turning against their
many. This, in reading the early allies, upset the most elegant and
history of Spain, must always be re accomplished dynasty that Spain has
membered. The misapplication, or ever witnessed. _
mistranslation of our more extensive For Cordova consult ‘Ant1'g1‘iedade8
term, king, for the lesser title of a ole Eqoafla,’ Morales, Alcala de He
powerful baron, as in the case of Lear, nares, 1575, chap. 31: ‘Almakkari,’
gives an air of disproportion to the translated by the learned P. Gayangos.
narrative. The divided and weakened The third book records what Cordova
Moorish principalities gradually fell was in all its glory. Southey, in art. i.
before the united Spaniards, and Cor ‘Foreign Quarterly Review,’ has given
dova was easily taken, June 30, 1235, a portion of the 10th and 11th vols. of
by St. Fcrdinand—a king, aye every Florez, ‘Esp. Sa_q.,~’ ‘Los Santos de
inch a king. Cordova,’ M. de Roa, 4to., Scv. 1615,
Then it was that Ibnu-l-ahmar, a Lyons, 1617, or 4to., Cordova, 1627 ;
vassal of St. Ferdinand, founded, in De Corduva in Hisjgzanizi, and ditto,
1238, 1492, the fourth and last dynasty, 4to., Lyons, 1617; ‘ Anti;/iiedndcs dc
that of Granada, which after two cen Cordova,’ Pedro Diaz de Rivas, 4to.,
turies and a half, was in its turn 1624; and ‘Antigua Principado de
undermined by internal dissensions, Cordova,’ M. de Roa, 4to., Cordova,
until the union of Aragonand Castile 1636 ; ‘ Palestra Sagrada,’ Bart°' San
under Ferd. and Isab., taking place at chez Fcria, 4 vols. 4to., Madrid, 1772 ;
the period of the greatest Granadian ‘ Calalogo ale los Obispos dc Cordova,’
divisions, completed the final con Juan Gomez Bravo, 2 vols., fol., 1778,
p Andalusia. noun: 9.—COR.DOVA——LA mrzqurrs. 227
and the Indicador,‘ by Luis Maria. gilding, marble and whitewash; osten
Ramirez de las Casas Deza; and the tatious poverty. In the Sula de la
Manualito de Cordova ; read also Le Audiencia are a series of bad portraits
brecht’s essay in Ashur’s ‘ Benja/min de of prelates. Here Ferdinand VII.was
Tuolela, 318. confined in 1823, and attempted to
Cordova, this Athens under the escape through the garden, in which
Moor, is now a poor Boeotian place, observe the gigantic lemons, Arabice
the residence of local authorities, with laymozm. The artist must not fail to
a liceo, theatre, a casa de espositos, walk below the bridge to some most
plaza. de toros, and a national museo picturesque Moorishmills and pleasant
with some rubbish in ‘San Pablo, and fresh plantations.
a library of no particular consequence; The cathedral or the mosque, La
a day will amply suffice for everything. Mezquita as it is still called (mesgad
The city arms are “ a bridge placed on from mas-egad, Arabice to worship
water,” allusive to that over the river ; prostrate), stands isolated, and has
the foundations of it are Roman; the served as the chief temple to many
present irregular arches were built in
creeds, each in their turn. The exterior
719 by the governor Assamh. At the is forbidding, being enclosed by walls
town entrance is a classical Doric gate from 30 to 60 feet high, and averaging
erected by Herrera for Philip II. on 6 feet in thickness : walk round them,
the site of the Moorish Babu-l-Kante and observe the square buttress towers
rah, “the gate of the bridge.” The with fire-shaped or bearded parapets;
relievos on it are said to be by Torri it is the type of that which was at
giano. Near this is El triurgfo, a Seville. Examine the rich Moorish
triumph of superstition and churri spandrils and latticed openings of the
guerism, which was erected by the dilferent entrances. Enter the Court
Bishop Martin de Barcia. On the of Oranges at the Puerla del Perdon,
top is the Cordovese tut-elar saint, of which the type is truly Oriental
Rafael, who clearly is unconnected (1 Chr.-xxviii. 6). The cistern was
with his namesake of Urbino. The erected in 9415-6, by Abdu-r-rahman.
Alcazar rises to the 1., and was built In this once sacred vqeivo; and “Grove,”
on the site of the Balatt I/uclheric, this “court of the House of God,"
the Castle of Roderick, the last of the importunate beggars, although bearded,
Goths, whose father, Theofred, was cloaked, Homeric, and patriarchal,
duke of Cordova; formerly it was the worry the stranger and dispel the illu
residence of the Inquisition, and then, sion. Ascend the belfry tower, which,
as at Seville, that of miserable invalid like the Giralda, was shattered by a
soldiers. The lower portions were con hurricane in 1593; it was recased and
verted into stables by Juan de Minjares repaired the same year by Fernan Ruiz,
in 1584, for the royal stallions: near a native of this city. The courtyard
Cordova and Alcolea were the principal was built by Said Ben Ayub in 937;
breeding-ground for Andalucian barbs, it is 430 feet by 210. The 19 entrances
until the establishment was broken up into the mosque are now closed, save
by the invaders, who carried ofi’ the that of the centre, Observe the miliary
best mares and stallions. Here, under columns found in the middle of the
the Moors, were the Alha/ras (unde mosque during the repairs of 1532:
H21/ras), the mounted guard of the the inscriptions (re-engraved in 1732!)
king, and they were either Christians, record the distance, 114 miles, to Cadiz,
Mamelukes, or Sclavonians, foreigners, from the Temple of Janus, on the site
with whom suspicious despots like to of which the mosque was built. The
surround themselves. interior of the cathedral is like a
The bisl1op’s palace, close by, was basilicum, for the Moors introduced a
built in 1745, and is in a bad rococo new style of building in Spain, or
style: the inside is all dirt, decay, and rather converted the basilicum to the
228 ROUTE 9.—CORDOVA—CATHl:IDRAL——THE CECA. Sect. II.
mosque, as they had adapted the Bible always chose to locate themselves on
to the Koran. This specimen offers high ground, as most calculated for
the finest type in Europe of the true defence. The old sites are to be traced
temple of Islam. The labyrinth, a. by the distinguishing epithet La Vieja,
forest or quincunx of pillars, was chiefly which is equivalent to the Greek 1-as
constructed out of the materials of a qwkma, the Moorish Baleea, the Turk
temple of Janus, consecrated to St. ish Esky Kalli. Our Old Sa/rum is
George by the Goths. Out of the 1200 an apt illustration, where the ancient
monolithic columns—n0w reduced to city was absorbed by more modern
about 850—which once supported its Salisbury, and used up, serving in its
low roof, 115 came from Nismes and decay to elevate its rival.
Narbonne, in France; 60 from Seville Abdu-r-rahman began the present
and Tarragona, in Syain; while 140 mosque, July 2, 786, copying that of
were presented by Leo, Emperor of Damascus; dying June 10, 788, it was
Constantinople; the remainder were finished by his son Hixem in 793-4,
detached from the temples at Carthage and was called Ceca, Zeca, the house
and other cities of Africa; the columns of purification, the old Epyptian Sékos
are in no way uniform—some are of (amm,adytum). In sanctity it ranked
jasper, porphyry, verd-antique, and as the third of mosques, equal to the
other choice marbles l neither are their Alaksa of Jerusalem, and second only
diameters equal throughout, the shafts to the Caaba of Mecca. Conde, i. 226,
of some which were too long having details its magnificence and ceremo
been either sawed oil‘ or sunk into the nials. A pilgrimage to this Ceca was
floor to a depth of four and even five held to be equivalent in the Spanish
and six feet; while in those too short, Moslem to that of Mecca, where he
the deficiency was supplied by means could not go: hence anda/r de zeca en
of a huge and disproportionate Corin meca became a proverb for wanderings,
thian capital, thus destroying all har and is used by Sancho Panza when
mony and uniformity. The Moslem soured by blanket-tossings. The area
was the thief of antiquity. This pasis about 394 feet E. to W.; 356 feet
sion of the Arabs for appropriating N. to S. The pillars divide it into 19
Roman remains has always been and longitudinal and 29 transverse aisles;
is general, wherever they settled; the the laterals are converted into chapels.
materials oftheir buildings were seldomObserve the singular double arches
extracted fi-om the qu . From the and those which spring over pillars,
Tigris to the Orontes, om the Nile which are one of the earliest deviations
to the Guadalquiver, the cities of the from the Basilica form: the columns,
first settlers are entirely built from as at Pwstum, have no plinths, which
the wreck of former ones. Ct-esiphon would be inconvenient to pedestrians.
and Babylon furnished materials for' Some of the upper arches are beauti
the private and public buildings of fully interlaced like ribands. The roof
Baghdad; Misr was transformed into is about 35 feet high, and originally
the modern Cairo: Tunis rose out of was flat before the modern cupolas
the ruins of Carthage; and in Spain were substituted by one Valle Le
few are the Roman cities whose site desma in 1713. The real lowness is
was not changed by the conquerors, increased by the width of the interior,
by transporting their materials to a just as the height of the gothic is
distance of two, three, and even more increased by the narrowness of the
miles, from the original spot whereon aisles. The alerce wood of which it is
they stood ; this being principally the ‘ formed remained as sound as when
case whenever the deserted city occu-, placed there nearly eleven centuries ago;
pied the centre of a. plain or valley ;§ and, when taken down, the planks
for the Arabs, from habit, as well as were much sought after by the guitar
from an instinct of self-preservation, makers. This tree, called in the
Andalucia. norm: 9.——CORDOVA——THE ALERCE. 229
Arabic dialect of Granada, Erza, Ere was saved from Don Pedro and the
the Eres of the Hebrew, the Lm-is of Moors. Its Spartan simplicity con
Barbary (the root of La/riz-, larch), is trasts with the surrounding gorgeous
the Thuya, the Thus articulate, or arbor ness. This chapel the Spaniards call
vitae, which in the time of the Moors Del Zancarron, in derision of thefoot
grew plentifully near the Gumiel, as it bone of Mahomet; the chapel is an
still does in the Berber mountains, octagon of 15 ft.; the roof, made in
beyond Tetuan, from whence it was the form of a shell, is wrought out of
brought here (Morales, ‘Ant. de Esp.’ a single piece of marble. The pilgrim
123). Spain was always celebrated for compassed this Ceca seven times, as
the durability of its timber and excel was done at Mecca; hence the foot
lence of its workmanship. The Phoe worn pavement.
nicians were the great carpenters of The lateral chapels of the cathedral
antiquity, and selected as such by are not very interesting. Pablo do
Solomon for the temple at Jerusalem Cespedes, ob. 1608, is buried in front
(1 Kings v.). Pliny, ‘ N. H.’ (xvi. 40) of that of San Pablo: by him are the
speaks of the antiquity of the beams of paintings of St. John, St. Andrew, and
the temple of Saguntum, which were a neglected “Last Supper,” once his
durable like those of Hercules at Cadiz masterpiece. In the Calle San Nicolas
(Sil. Ital. 18). is a Berruguete Retablo, and paintings
Visit the Ca/pilla de Villavioiosa, by Cesar Arbasia, of no merit. In the
once the Maksurah, or seat of the kalif. Oaqzilla de los Reyes was buried Alonso
Observe the Mih-rub, the elaborately XL, one of the most chivalrous of
ornamented cabinet or recess in which Spanish kings—-the hero of Tarifa and
the Alcoran was placed, and where the Algecii-as: his ashes have been moved
kalif performed his Ohotlni, or public to Sn. Hipolito, but his ungrateful
prayer, at the window looking to the country has not even raised a poor slab
Ceca, or sanctum sanctorum. Observe to his memory. In the Ca/pilla del
the quaint lions, like those in the Al Ca/rdenal is the rich tomb of Cardinal
hambra, and the Azulejos, and the Pedro de Salazar, ob. 1706. It is
arabesque stucco, once painted in blue churrigueresque; the statues are by
and red, and gilded. The inscriptions José de Mora. In the Panteon below
are in Cuphic. This spot has been are some fine marbles. The two bad
sadly disfigured by Spanish alterations. pictures i.n the Sacristia, and ascribed
Visit the Calle San Perho, once the to Alonso Cano, are only copies. The
Cella, the “ Ceca," the Holiest of Ho church plate once was splendid; the
lies, and the kiblah, or point turned to empty cases and shelves remain from
Mecca, which lies to the E. from Spain, whence Dupont and his plunderers
but to the S. from Asia; observe the carried off many Waggon loads. A few
glorious Mosaic exterior unequalled in cinque-cento crosses and chalices were
Europe, and of truly Byzantine rich secreted, and thus escaped, like the
ness. The Greeks soon made friends Custodia. This is a noble Gothic sil
with the dynasty of Cordova as the ver-gilt work of Henrique de Arphe,
natural enemy of their eastern anta 1517. It was injured in 1735 by the
gonist the kalif of Damascus. Accord injudicious additions of one Bernabé
ing to Edrisi, this splendid Mosaic was Garcia de los Reyes. The marvel,
sent to Cordova from Constantinople however, of the verger, the great and
by the Emperor Romanus II. It was absorbing local lion, is a rude cross
their ~Jm<p~.m, which the Moors pro scratched on a pillar, and, according to
nounced Tsefysa, Sofezaba. There is an inscription, by a Christian captive
nothing finer in this kind at Palermo with his nail (i’ a nail)—Hizo' el Cau
or Monreale. Apaltry reja rails ofl' iibo con la Uila.
the tomb of the constable Conde de So much for the Mosque. The mo
Oropesa, by whom, in 1368, Cordova dern addition is the Caro; this was
230 noun; 9.——CORDOVA—ANTIQUITIES. Sect. II.
done in 1523 by the Bishop Alonsol Mala Muerte, was erected in 1406 by
Manrique. The city corporation, with a i Enrique III.
taste and judgment rare in such bodies, l The Moors and Spaniards have com
protested against this “ improvement;” ‘ bined to destroy all the Roman anti
but Charles V., unacquainted with the ‘ quities of Cordova. The aqueduct was
locality, upheld the prelate. “Then he ‘ taken down to build the convent of
passed through in 1526, and saw the San Jeronimo. In 1730 an amphi
mischief, he thus reproved the chap theatre was discovered during some
ter :—“ You have built here what you, accidental diggings near San Pablo, and
or any one, might have built anywhere 1 reinterred. In making the prisons of
else; but you have destroyed what was Z the Inquisition some statues, mosaics,
unique in the world. You have pulled , and inscriptions were found, all of
down what was complete, and you have ‘ which were covered again by the holy
begun what you cannot finish.” And K tribunal as being Pagan. Formerly
yet this man, who could see so clearly there were 35 convents, besides 13
the motes in corporate eyes, was the parish churches, in this priest-ridden
Vandal who disfigured the Alcazar of city; most of these are overloaded with
Seville, and tore down portions of the barbaric churrigueresque and gilding.
Alhambra, to commence a palace, which Ambrosio Morales was buried in Los
even now is unfinished; oh! fit ruler 1!/[arty/res, where his friend the Arch
of Spaniards, whose poor performance bishop of Toledo, Rojas Sandoval,
ever shames their mighty promise ! placed a tomb and wrote an epitaph ;
The Caro was commenced by Fer-nan the ashes were moved in 1844 to the
Ruiz in 1523, and completed in 1593. Colegiata de San Hipolito. The Plaza,
The cinque-cento ornaments and roof with its wooden galleries, and the Calle
are picked out in white and gold. The de la Feria, abound with Prout-like
Silleria, by Pedro D. Cornejo, is chur bits. Observe a common-placemodern
rigueresque; he died in 1758, ast. 80, portico of 6 Composite pillars, by Ven
and is buried near the Capilla Mayor. tura Rodriguez, much admired here.
The excellent Retablo was designed, in Some 250 bad pictures were got to
1614, by Alonso Matias ; the painting gether in the Golegio de la Asuncion.
is by Palomino, and is no better than The sword of the Rey Chico and the
his writings ; the tomb, Al lado dc la Arabic bell of Samson maybe inquired
Epistola, is that of the beneficent after. Mediaeval Cordova totters and
Bishop Diego de Mardones, ob. 1624-. every day disappears: the fine old
Lope de Rueda lies buried entre los' houses of the ruined nobility and ab
dos coros. For other details consult ; sentees are either converted to vile
the Descripcion, &c., of Casas Deza,[ purposes or pulled down. The con
D“°. Cordoba, 1847. vcnts shared the same fate. The tra
The walk round the lonely walls is veller may visit La Corredera, once
picturesque. They are Moorish, and the plaza for tournaments and bull
built of iapia; with their gates and fights. A grand new arena has been
towers they must have been nearly raised at the Pasen Grand Capiian.
similar to that original circumvallation
The Moorish house La Cuadra, on
as described by Caesar (B. C. the Plazuela San Nicolas, deserves
19).
Observe the palms overtopping the wall notice. Commerce has fled with arts
from a convent garden near the Puerta and arms. The peculiar leather, called
de Plasencia. The first palm ever from the town Cordwain, Cordovan,
planted in Cordova was by the royal was once celebrated, but the Moors
hand of Abdu-r-rahman, who desired carried their art and industry to Mo
to have a memorial of his much-loved rocco: a few miserable tanpits near
and always regretted Damascus; his the river mark the difference between
plaintive sonnet is still extant. The the present and former proprietors.
octagon tower, near this Puerta, La The chief manufactures at present are
Andalucia. noun: 9.—COB.DOVA—-THE sacx. 231
olives and tubs for them. Cordova the reaction after the fever; some ex
was always most servile and priest citement, too, was necessary, and as the
ridden ; the theatre in Ferd. VII.’s physical forces decayed, a moral stimu
time was closed, because some nuns lant was resorted to (see Monserrat,
saw the devil dancing on the roof. p. 419.)
Thus, in ancient times, the brazen tree Cordova has never recovered the
of Apollo rcmonstrated when a dancer fatal June, 1808, when it was entered
came near it, who was torn to pieces by Gen. Dupont: although no resist
by the priests (Athen.xiii. 605). Cor ance was made, the populace was
dova is now dying of atrophy: it has massacred, and the city, Mezquita,
neither arms nor men, leather nor pru and churches were plundered (Foy,
nella; the first blow was dealt by the bar 231) ; every one, says Maldo
barian Berbers, the last by the French. nado (i. 291), from the general to the
A morn.ing’s excursion may be made fraction of a drummer-boy, giving
to the Val Paraiso, and the hermitages themselves up to pillage. The ofliicers
in the Sierra Morena; the path ascends vied with the rank and file (Madoz, vi.
through gardens. At San Francisco 658). The “plunder exceeded ten
de la A2-rizafa was the fairy villa, the millions of realsz” 8000 ounces, or
Rizzifah of Abdu-r-rahman, i. e. “the 25,000l., were found in Dup0nt‘s lug
pavement ”—unde Arricife ; Conde and gage alone: see Maldonado (i. 335);
the accurate Gayangos have detailed who, with Toreno (iv.), gives all the
from Arabic authorities the historical scandalous details.
but almost incredible luxuries of this General Villoutrcys, who was sent to
Aladdin palace. This museum of Ori Paris with the news, although travel
ental art, like the villa of Hadrian, near ling express, halted a day at Bayonne,
Tivoli, was entirely destroyed, Feb. 18, to convert his illgotten Spanish gold
1009. The chief leaders, says the histo into lighter French billets de banque
rian Ibnu-r-rzikik, were only “ ten men, (Maldonado, i. 333): compare Diod.
who were either sellers of charcoal (car Sic. (v. 305) and his character of the
boneros), butchers, or dung-carriers ” “excessive love for bullion” of the old
(Moh. D. 228 and 488). The inha Gaul. Well may Bory exclaim (La
bitants made no resistance; now, even borde, iii. 201) that “ Le souvenir du
the traces of these palaces cannot be Varus Frangais est demeuré odieux
made out—etiam periere ruinae. A aux citoyens de Cordoue.” Even Foy,
scheme has recently been set on foot in spite of his “ generous patriotism,”
to make excavations and researches. does not dare to hide the notorious
The hermitages on the Sierra above truth: he tells the sad details 231),
were to Andalucia what Monscrrat was the sack of the mosque, the inex
to Catalonia: desecratedandsuppressed, cusable bntchery of peaceful, defence
they now are hardly worth going up to ; less multitudes. In the words of even
the excursion, however, aflbrds a true Thiers it was “une veritable b1'i_qan
notion of Andalucian vegetation, and dage.” Our Napier (i. 8), notwith
the views from above are extensive. standing, asserts that, “as the inha
The hermitagcs on the Sierra—a bitants took no part in the contest,
Thebais, a Laura, a Mount Athos— and received the French without any
never wanted a tenant of the bravest signs of aversion ” (thus far he is cor
and best born; in the Iberian tem- rect), “the town was protected from
perament, as in the Oriental—inedia pillage!” Buonaparte, however, who
at Zabor—violent action and repose are knew the real facts, told Savary that
inherent. The half monk, half soldier he could only account for the “ un
crusader, after a youth of warfare and usual cowardice and subsequent defeat
bloodshed, retired with grey hairs to of Dupont's troops at Bailen, from a
cleanse with holy water his blood fear of losing their plunder,”--and he
stained hands. This was the cold fit, was right. Those who rob, as the
1
232 ROUTE 9.—BAlLEN-——ALOOLEA—TI-IE DEFEAT. Sect. II.
Duke told so often the Spaniards and kerchiefs and shawls instead of man
Belgians, are worth nothing when tillas. Passing through fertile tracts
faced against the enemy. of corn and olives is Andujar, Andura,
There is a bridle cross-road from a dull unwholesome town on the Gua
Cordova to Granada, 22.} L. (see R. dalquivir of 9000 souls, with an old
14), and a new road is contemplated to dilapidated bridge: the diligence inn
Malaga, mid Fernan Nuiiez, Monte is decent. For history consult Vida de
mayor, Montilla, Aguilar, Benamegi; Santa Eufras-ia 3/ Origen de Anduja/r,
and Antiquera, which, finished, will Antonio Terrones de Robres, 4to. Gran.
bring Malaga in land and carriage I 1657. Here are made the porous
communication with Madrid, Seville, cooling clay drinking-vessels, alca/rra
and Cadiz. Meantime the roads of this ma, Arabice Karaset, which, filled
rich province are most disgraceful. with water and arranged in stands or
Quitting Cordova at 2 L. the Gua tallas, are seized upon by thirsty
dalquivir is crossed by the noble bridge Spaniards on entering every venta.
of dark marble, built b_v crimes 111., ‘ The Pa/rroquia Santa Mar-ina was a
at Alcolea. This is so fine that the mosque : the monies in the neighbour
Spaniards say that the French, when 1 hood abound in game. At Andujar
they saw it, asked if it were not made were signed two memorable docu
in France. Alcolea is a common name ments ; first, July 23, 1808, the con
in Spain, being the Alcalah, the for vention of Bailen, and secondly, Aug.
tress, the outpost of the Moors. Here, 8, 1823, the decree of the Duke of
June 7, 1808, Pedro Echavarri, a “ re Angouléme, whereby superiority was
turned convict, half madman and entire assumed by the French over all Spanish
coward” (Schep. i. 280), who had pro authorities. This was resented by the
moted himself to the rank of lieut. whole Peninsula, for it touched the
general (thus Morillo and others rose national Ewafioliamo, or impatience
to rank), with some thousand men, under foreign dictation; it converted
ought to have stopped Dupont, but at every friend, nay, even the recently
the first French advance this general delivered Ferdinand VII., into a foe
turned and fled, never halting until he to the knife.
reached Ecija, 40 m, oil‘; others ran From Anduja/r there is a carriage
even to Seville, and were the first able road to Jaen, 6 L., and thence to
messengers of their own disgrace (Foy Granada, Rte. 16.
iii. 229) ; then had Dupont pushed on, Continuing on to Madrid the road
insteadof thinking of plunder, he would soon ascends the hills, over a broken
have won Andalucia without firing a country, down which the Rumblar
shot. Ferdinand VII., however, in boils. The memorable battle of Bailen
1814, instituted an order of honour took place between the post-houses La
for the prodigios de valor exhibited at Casa del Rey and Bailen. BAILEN!
Alcolea, and gave Echavarri the only This great name, which first, which
grand cross. All this is omitted by last is repeated by Spaniards, is the
Madoz (i. -1156). Again, in 1836, the one victory, the hapworth of triumph
dastardly citizens of Cordova yielded which covers a multitude of intolerable
to a handful of men under Gomez. defeats, such as in no history can be
Near Alcolea is the great stable La paralleled except by that of themselves.
Regalada, for the once celebrated‘ BAILEN, where “ Nosotros crushed
breeding-grounds of Cordovese barbs: the veterans of Austcrlitz and Ma
the establishment has never recovered rengo,” [Dupont’s troops being, in
since the best stallions were carried oif fact, raw conscripts and “des soldats
by the invaders. At Carpio, with its novices,” Foy, iv. 109,] “ and thereby
Moorish tower, built in 1325, the saved, not Spain alone, but Europe!”
costume begins to change, the women As the road to Madrid ofiers little to
wearing green serge sa_1/as, and hand look at or write about, the real truth
Andalucia. ROUTE 9.——BAILEN——THE BATTLE. 233
may at once amuse the English and French had become demoralized by
instruct the Spanish reader while jour indulgence in pillage ; more than 1500
neying over dreary and dull La Mancha. men were actually employed in guard
W'hen Cuesta had, by being beaten ing the “impedimenta,” or waggons of
at Rioseco, opened Madrid to the plunder ,~ thus, as at Victoria, the
French, Buonaparte and Murat con crime entailed its own punishment.
sidered the conquest of Andalucia But according to Justin (xxxii. 2) such
to be merely a promenade militai/re. defeat is no unusual consequence of
Dupont accordingly was sent from Gallic plunder, and especially when
Toledo, May 24, 1808, with 10,000 sacrilegions; hence the classical pro
men, and boasted that on the 21st verb Auru/m Tolosammn, the curse
of June he should be at Cadiz: his entailing pillage of Delphos, which
forces were next increased by 12,950 haunted the French of Toulouse, and
more men under Vedel; but Dupont the comrades of Brennus. Such was
mismanaged the whole campaign: he the just retribution of Nemesis, Ultor
arrived, without obstacles, at Andujar, Sacra pecuniw. And some high oili
and then neither pushed on to Cadiz, cers, says Foy (iv. 100), “anxious to
nor fell back on Madrid while the secure their butin infame, were ready
mountains were open. Meanwhile Cas to listen to dishonoui-;” the uneven
tafios was enabled to move his biaofios country was also in favour of Reding,
from Algeciras, by the help of a loan‘ as it rendered all scientific manoeuvring
advanced bythe merchants of Gibraltar, impossible; in short it was a Ron
and marched towards Andujar with cesvalles.
25,000 men : his army, both in men and The report of the firing during the
generals, was little more than nomin contest brought up La Pefia with the
ally Spanish, although Madoz, iii. 303, 4th Spanish brigade, and Vedel with
says they were casi todos Andaluces! his division; thus Reding was attacked
The 1st division was Swiss, and com in front and rear by Dupont and Vedel,
manded by Reding, a Swiss; the 2nd while Dupont was exposed in the same
was commanded by De Coupigny, a manner to Rediug and La Pena; but
Frenchman; the 3rd by Jones, an the Spaniards arrived first, for Vedel
Irishman, and the best troops were had halted some hours to permit his
Wafloons. The 4th division, which troops to convert into soup a flock of
really consisted of Spaniards, who now goats which they had caught: thus
claim all the glory, never fired a shot, nearly 20,000 Frenchmen were sold
and Castaiios, their chief, only arrived for a mess of pottage: “La destinée
after the battle was gained; previously des nations dépend de la maniere dont
Dupont had so mismanoeuvred and ellcs se nourrissent,” says Brillat Sa
scattered his forces, that Castafios, by varin. This ought to be a warning to
marching Reding to the r., got between so truly t a gastronomic nation,
him and Vedel. The positions were how they meddle with the cuisine of
singular, each being placed in these the rude Iberians, who were sad goat
hilly defiles between two fires : Dupont eaters, according to Strabo 155,
between Castafios and Reding, Reding 1ez'yaq)wya5a1 ,u.¢).ur=r¢).
between Dupont and Vedel. All parties were anxious to come to
July 18, Dupont quitted Andujar some terms, particularly the chiefs, Du
like a thief in the night. So careless pont and Castafios; indeed the latter,
was the Spanish look-out, that the on his arrival, after all the fighting
enemy had marched five hours before was over, would have readily granted a
Oastafios even knew that he was gone. convention of Ointra had he not been
Dupont was met at daybreak of the prevented by Count Tilli, a sort of
19th by Reding and Coupigny, drawn commissioner of the Seville junta.
up in a strong hill position. The Every moment’s delay rendered‘ the
battle was of short duration, for the position of the French more desperate.
234 noun: 9.—s.i1LE>I—cAsrA§zos. Sect. II.
Tho burning Andalusian sun, and the when Dupont on delivering his sword,
want of water, were more formidable made a grandiloquent speech in the
than the Spaniards. Read Livy (xxxiv. Honneur et Patric style: “ this is the
47) to see a former example of these first time mon épée has witnessed de
effects on a French army. When the feat.” “ Ma foi,” replied Castafios,
troops ventured down to the stream “ what is odder still, this is the first
below, they were shot by hornet swarms time mine has witnessed a victory.”
of armed peasants. Eventually, on Casta-fios, who trimmed and wea
the 23rd, 17,635 Frenchmen laid down thered all the storms of Spanish poli
their arms. The panic spread far and tics, died liked by all Sept. 23rd, 1852,
wide: whole detachments of French aged 95. On the 1-ttli of that month,
along the road to Madrid volun also full of years and honours, our great
teered their own submission. Joseph Duke had led the way, as he was Wont.
Buonaparte fled from Madrid in They indeed justly represent the shares
stantly, having first pillaged every of the real work done in the war of in
thing; but the invaders ran away dependence by England and Spain.
from the coming shadows of only their Castaiios was a gentleman, and to
own fears, for Cast-afios, so far from his honour opposed the Punic manner
advancing on the foe, more amazed at in which the convention of Bailen was
his victory, than even the French at broken on some quibble about the
their defeat, actually marched back to impossibility of sending the French
Seville to dedicate flags to St. Ferdi home in “Spanish ships.” Thus retalia
nand: nor did he reach Madrid until tion and poetical justice were satisfied
Aug. 23, when he proceeded to kneel rather than good faith. The French,
before the Atocha image of the Virgin, who had sowed in the storm,nowreaped
and thank her for her interference in the whirlwind. “They were treated,”
(Schep. i. 458). Meanwhile Buona says Southey (ch. viii.), “ as criminals
parte was silently preparing his great rather than soldiers ; as men who had
revenge umnolested by the Spaniards, laid down their arms, but could not lay
who quietly reposed under their laurels, down their crimes.” “ On leur re
not taking the smallest steps even to clamait avec menaces ct injures les
dislodge the French runaways from the vases sacrées (les églises,” (Foy, iv.
line of the Ebro ; they thought the war 107). Many were massacred in cold
concluded by one blow ; and even the blood on the road, others were starved
sober English caught the infection, in the Cadiz hulks, the rest were ex
and imagined Bailen to be a tragedy posed on the desolate island of Cabrera,
to be repeated whenever the French without food or clothing, to feed on
appeared, until further notice. The each other like howling wild beasts, in
rewards given to Castafios, this con spite of the indignant remonstrances of
queror by deputy, were as slow as his English oflicers, who are now charged
military movements ; he was not made by some French! with the guilt of
Duque dc Bailen until nearly a quarter the very crimes, which they did every
of a century afterwards, and then thing in their power to prevent.
simply and solely because Christina Buonaparte concealed Bailen and the
was anxious to create a liberal party truth from his slaves : “Les Francais,”
for her own ends. To his praise be it says Foy, “ n’en eurent méme pas con
said that he was free from mean jea naissance.” When the retreat from
lousies, and cheerfully served under Madrid could no longer be kept back,
the Duke of \Vellington, and of all his he only hinted in the ‘ Moniteur,’ Sept.
countrymen was bcst liked by their 6, that the heat of the weather and the
allies. He was fully aware of his own su‘periority of the Ebro water were
utter military incapacity, and being a the causes ; just as at Trafalgar he
true Pillo Aindaluz, cut his joke on ascribed the accidental disaster to
himself and on everything else. Thus, the elements. Barring this fanfaron
Andalucia, nouns 9.-—BA.ILEN. 235
nade, his military genius fully compre aroused from her moral subjection ;
hended how little Spanish strategics Spain retook her place among nations ;
had caused the victory; and, Writing and England, thinking her now worthy
immediately after the disaster, he re of her friendship, rushed to her final
marked, “ Les Espagnols ne sont pas deliverance.
a craindre, toutes les forces Espagnoles After nearly forty years, a monument
ne sont pas capables de culbuter 25,000 was talked about being erected on this
Franqais dans une position raison glorious site ; and even this, a thing of
nable ;” and subsequent events showed accident, was not got up to honour
how true was this opinion. Hp never Gastafios or his troops, but to express
again lost any great battle with the by a side wind the national disgust at
Spaniards, and in a few months routed . the marriage of the Spanish Infanta
these very heroes of Bailen, who dis with the French Duc de Montpensier.
played everywhere the most incredible A more curious monument will be the
cowardice and incapacity. Even Sche oflicial Spanish book that is to be
peler observes, “Le son de ce mot written on the battle, in order to confutc
Bailen produisitunvertige de triomphe, the statements in Thiers’ “ historical
et livra at Buonaqra/rte mainte armée = romance ;” just as Marliani was em
.E'.spa_qnoZe.” This victory of an acci ployed as the mouthpiece of Oastilian
dent really proved to Spaniards a dis indignation, to rebut the same lively
aster, for they now took the exception gent1cma.n’s version of Trafalgar. Mean
for the rule, and imagined that their time the name Dupona was long given
raw levies, wanting in everything, and to “a croptailed rip,” in coarse and
led by incapable ofiicers, could beat horse parlance in central Spain.
the highly organised veterans of France The town of Bailen or Baylen, Be
led by good commanders ; in vain the tula, is most wretched, and is no bad
Duke urged them to keep to their hills, sam le of those of the dreary localities
and wage a Fabian defensive warfare, whic we are approaching; pop. under
which history, the nature of the broken 3000: the diligence Parador de la Paz
country, and the admirable gue-rilla is a poor inn. There is a ruined castle
qualities of the Spanish people pointed here, with a machicolated tower belong
out. “ I am afraid,” said the Duke, ing to the Benavente family, now to
“that the utmost we can hope for is, the Osuna; observe the palm-tree.
to teach them how to avoid being beat. Those who are going N. may now bid
If We can eli'ect that object, I hope we adieu to the vegetation of the tierra
might do the rest” (Disp. Aug. 18, caliente, while those who are coming
1812). But their Ewafiolismo took S. will welcome this harbinger of the
hufl‘; they were not to be taught ; land of promise. Now commences the
and these “ children in the art of war” pafio pardo, the brown cloth, and the
were naughty enough to quarrel with alpargata, or the hempen sandal of the
their kind nurse and well-meaning poverty-stricken Manchegos.
instructor. Bailcn always interfered; Leaving Bailen the road enters the
they were always fighting it over again, Sierra barrier, which rises between the
planning how to catch all the French central table-lands and the maritime
at once in one trap. This idea led them strips; and striking is the change of
to quit the mountains and descend into vegetation, the best test of climate,
the fatalplains, theretoextend theirlines, when this frontier is passed. The hilly
in order to surround the enemy and road is admirably planned, having been
catch him in a trap, when these Tartars, executed by Charles Le Maur, a French
by one charge q/' cavalry, generally put engineer in the service of Charles III.
them to rout. These localities at the gorge of the
Meanwhile the effect of Bailen was mountains have naturally been the
electrical; for the truth could not be theatre of battle: in these parts Pub
quite stifled, even in France. Europe lius Scipio defeated Asdrubal, and here
236 ROUTE 9.—LAS rmvas DE TOLOSA. Sect. II.
in modern times the Spaniards have by birth a Frenchman, and fired with
twice worsted their most inveterate all the military spirit of his gallant na
foes. About 2 L. to the rt. of Ca/rolina tion, this eye-witness was a better hand
are Las Navas de Tolosa. Navas is a probably at guess-work than arithmetic.
Basque word, and like the Iberian He vouches also for the fact that no
term Nav, enters into names connected wood was burnt in the victor camp,
with “ plains,”—Navia, Navarra. This except the spears, arrows, and (long)
is the scene of a former Bailen, called bows of the Moors. See, also, p. 97,
de las Navas de Tolosa by the Spaniards, Annalee Ecc.de Jaen. Jurado. Those
and by Moorish annalists that of who have read any Spanish general’s
Al-’akab. Here, Monday July 16, or junta’s accounts of their victories!
1212, Alonso VIII. defeated Moham during the Peninsular and recent wars,
med Ibn Abdallah, surnamed Annassir will see how little changed are these
Ledin-Allah—the Defender of the Re unchangeable romancers. The victory
ligion of God—King of Morocco. could not be followed up ; the Spaniards,
The conquest of Toledo by the Chris as usual, in want of everything, were
tians had led to a fresh invasion ofunable to move; they therefore re
Spain from Barbary; the news spread turned to Toledo, to thank San Ilde
dismay over Christendom, and Inno fonso, instead of marching on Seville;
cent III. proclaimed a general crusade. just as Castafios returned after Bailen
It is said that no less than 110,000 to Seville, to thank St. Ferdinand, in
foreign crusaders came to assist the stead of marching on Toledo.
Spaniards from all parts of Europe, Carolina. Diligence Parador good.
although the Spaniards claim all the This is the chief place of the Nuevas
glory for themselves, as in the Penin Poblaciones, or the new towns of this
sular war; and, as scarcely any men district: pop. 2800: it is tidy and
tion is made of the Duke and the clean, laid out by line and rule, and
English, who did that deed, and all the in academical rectangular and common
glory taken to Nosotros, and this while place; perfectly uninteresting and un
thousands are alive who know the real .Spanish, it is much admired by the
truth, some doubts may be raised as natives, because so European and civi
to this former statement and exclusive lized. The fair skins of the people,
claim, but no doubt that foreign auxili and the roads planted with trees, are
aries bore at least their share in the bur more German than Iberian. These wild
den of the fight. The allies left Toledo hills were formerly left to the robber
June 21, to meet the invaders. They and the wolf, without roads or villages.
found the passes guarded by the Moors, Spain, after colonizing the new world
and despaired, when a shepherd, since and expelling her rich Jews and indus
ascertained to have been San Isidro trious Moors, was compelled to re
himself (see Madrid), appeared miracu people the Despoblados with foreign
lously and pointed out a by-path: so settlers. In 1767, Don Pablo Ola
at Marathon, where a stranger, like vide, a Peruvian by birth, planned the
San Isidro, in a rustic dress, assisted immigration of Germans and Swiss to
the Greeks, and then disappeared, the what they were told was a. “ mountain
oracles afterwards declared him to be paradise,” by a bribe of pecuniary as
Hercules (Pans. i. 32). The Christians sistance and promise of immunities; all
opened the attack; the Andaluciau these pledges were broken, and most of
Moors, true to their old unwarlike cha the poor foreigners died broken-hearted
racter, were the first to turn and run of the maladie du pays, execrating
(Conde, 423). The remainder fol Punic Spain, and remembering their
lowed their example; 200,000 infidels sweet Argos. Olavide himself, this
were killed, while scarcely 25 Christians modern Cadmus or Deucalion, who had
fell; so writes the pious and fighting infused life into the silent mountains,
archbishop Rodrigo, who was present : and one of the few enlightened Assis
Andalucia. ROUTE 9.—LA MANCHA. 237
tcntes Seville ever had, fell in his turn in two days, they forced 50 in. of ahnost
a victim to bigotry and ingratitude. impregnable passes.
One stipulation had been the non The province of La Manchu, into
admission of monkish drones into these which we now enter, contains about
new hives: a capuchin, named R0 7500 square m., with a scanty popula
muald, thereupon denounced him to tion of 250,000. It is chiefly table
the Inquisition ; he was arrested in land, elevated at a mean height of 2000
1776, his property confiscated, and he feet above the sea-level. Although ap
himself confined in a convent in La. parenbly a plain, it is very undulating ;
Mancha, subject to such a penance as in the dips, occasionally, a streamlet
the monks should inflict. He escaped creates a partial verdure and fertility.
into France, shaking Spanish dust ofl' but water is the great want; indeed,
his feet for ever. some see the origin of the name Manchu
The road made by Charles III. in the Arab Manxa——dry land. De
winds through a mountain gorge, with nuded of trees, it is exposed to the
toppling crags above and around, some cutting wintry blasts, and scorched by
of which are called here los organos, the calcining summer heat : tawny and
from representing the pipes of a gigan arid is the earth, while the dust, im
tic organ, and soon passes by Lac Cor pregnated with saltpetre, and the fierce
redems and the magnificent narrow glare of the sun blind the eye, wearied
gorge Despefia-per1'0s—“ throw over with prospects of uniform misery and a
dogs,” meaning the “infidel houndes.” grievous want of anything worth notice,
This is the natural gateway to dreary either in man or his works, or in the
La Manchu, as Pancorbo is to Castile. nature with which he is surrounded;
Adieu now gay Andalucia and the tro the traveller is sickened with the wide
pical vegetation. Those who advance expanse of monotonous steppes, and
N. exchange an Eden for a desert, over which nought but the genius of a
while those who turn their backs on Cervantes could have thrown any
the capital, at every step advance into charm, gilding, as it were, its unen
a more genial climate and a kindlier durable misery and dulness.
soil. In the war of independence the The towns are few, poverty-stricken,
Seville Junta only talked of fortifyin g and without a particle of comfort or
this natural Thermopylse, this Bolan interest: the mud-built villages, the
pass; nothing was over done except on abodes of under-fed, ill-clothed la
paper; and after the rout of Ocafia. the bourers: besides the want of water,
runaways dared not even stand behind fuel is so scarce that dung is sub
the rocks, where 100 old Greeks would stituted, as in the East. These ham
have checked the advance and saved lets, wretched enough before, were so
Andalucia. Jan. 20, 1810, the French, sacked by the Duponts and Soults,
under Dessolles, forced the pass in spite that they never have recovered. The
of the heroes of Bailen and their ten plains produce much corn, saffron, and
thousand men, who dispersed “every in some places rich wines: the mules are
man to his own home ;” and this on the celebrated. The Ma/nchego is honest,
plains of Tolosa! yet the country is a patient, and hard-working when there
natural fortress, and well did the Duke is any one to hire him; his affections
know its value. It might have been are more developed than his reason.
made the Torres Ved/ras of Andalucia. Temperate, brave, and moral, he is
His plan, when he contemplated de attached and confiding when kindly
fending Andalucia, which failed from used and honestly dealt with ; reserved
the Junta’s suspicions regarding Cadiz, and stern when he suspects ill-treat
was to make Carolina his head-quarters. ment and injustice. He is plainly
“ I think,” said he, “while I am there clad in paiio pa/rdo, with a montera
the French will not venture to pass the ———the Iberian ,u.urea—0ll his head, a
Sierra.” Now, when he was not there, most inconvenient cap, which neither
238 nours 9.-csnvimrns. Sect. II.
defends the head from the sun, the his philosophical comment on human
rain, or cold; yet, in spite of all these life, his criticisms on manners, institu
untoward circumstances in man and tions, and literature. The actors in the
his country, this is the province of the narrative—-the “Cara,” for instance,
- song and dance, the Seguidilla and Man the Canon, and Don Quixote himself
chega. Honest, homely Sancho Panza is —are the mouthpiece of the author,
a real Manchegan peasant. He is the true as the “ Cautivo ” is the hero of some
Juan Eqaaziol, the simple gaffer goosy, of his real adventures when captive in
the John Bull of Spain. Dos Juanes con Algiers. Don Quixote is a delineation
nn Pedro, hacen an canon entero. of the old high-bred Castilian, a hater
After passing the gorge of Despe1'ia of injustice and lover of virtue; he is
perros, to the rt. is the Venta de CM indeed a monomaniac, but that one
denas; here we think of Don Quixote, point is not one which is unbecoming
Cardcnio, and Dorothea, for these fic to an hidalgo; although the sweet bells
tions rank as realities. In the imme of his intellect are jangled and out of
diate Sierra to the 1. is the scene of tune, he is always the gentleman, al
the knight’s penance. Near Torre ways disinterested, generous, elevated,
Nueva he liberated the galley-slaves. and beneficent; he gradually recovers
As we are now in Don Quixote’s coun his senses in the second part, when our
try, and as it has been our fate to pass feelings of pity and sympathy, always
no less than six times over this dreary strong in his favour, increase. -
road of bore, we entreat the traveller vantes probably did not intend or anti
to arm himself beforehand with a Don cipate the spirit of ridicule which he
Quixote: some intellectual provender excited against this sentiment of “the
is no less needful for the mind than chivalrous ;” accordingly the tone and
“ vivers and provend ” are for the bodycharacter of his hero rise in the second
in the hungry barrenness of La Mancha, part ; he is exposed to somewhat fewer
so a few remarks on Cervantes may not rude and less personal mishaps. Un
be out of place here. doubtedly Cervantes contributed to in
According to M. Montesquieu, the jure the heroical and energetic character
sayer of smart things, “this, the one of the old Castilian, for one cannot
and only good book of Spain, is em laugh at books of chivalry without in
ployed in exposing the ridicule of all some wise affecting the principle; but
others.” Certainly, for Don Q.uixote’s. his real and avowed object was to put
sake, a vast tribe of Spanish sins in an end to the absurd romances which
print may be spared, which, to no loss it was then all the fashion to read.
of mankind, might be condemned to The second part was produced from
the fire of the Don’s niece or the fur an author under the name of Alonzo
nace of the inquisition of Ximenez ; Fernandez de Avellanada having put
but we must not suppose that it was forth a spurious continuation, pub
written to put down knight-errantry ; lished at Tarragona, 1614. This called
that exponent of a peculiar age had up the hitherto careless Cervantes, who
passed with its age, and had Don : has transfixed the plagiarist by the ban
Quixote been a mere satire on it, both derillas of his wit. He then became so
the conqueror and conquered would chary of his hero that he killed him, in
long ago have been buried in the same - order, as Addison said of Sir Roger de
grave and forgotten. Those who say Coverley, that no one else might mur
that Cervantes “laughed Spain’s chi der him; then, as he says with honest
valry away,” forget that it had expired pride, “ did Cid Hamet Ben Engeli lay
at least a century before his birth. It i down his pen, and place it up so high
is impossible not to see that it is “ Cer- i that none since have ever been able to
vantes loquitur” all through, and that take it down.” This “ eanting ” name
the tale is made the vehicle for his of Ben Engel, is thought by Conde to
own chivalrous temperament, and for shadow out in Arabic the Spanish word
Anclalucia. ROUTE 9.-——LA MANCI-IA—DON QUIXOTE, 239
“ Cervantes,” the “son of the stag," petty locality the representative of the
Ciervo ; the final ez being in Basque no absolute king; he sufiices for the wel
menclature equivalent to our son, Juan fare of the many, or, it may be, their
Juanes, John-Johnson. The prefix, Ben oppression, as the jawbone of an ass
Ibn meaning “ son ” in the Arabic, is the did in the hands of a Samson. Again,
French Fitz,-fils, and E ggel-Agl is a stag. where laws and habits of ceremonial
It is a mistake to consider Sancho manner are so well defined, and the
Panza (Paunch) to be a vulgar clown; bearing of the lower classes so natu
he is the homely, shrewd, natural native rally high bred, every one on his pro
of La Mancha, and may be com» motion falls, like the Oriental, into his
pared with the grave-diggers in “ Ham place, without effort or uncertainty.
let,” or the An//.0; in Aristophanes. The spirit of wit which pervades
Notwithstanding his preferring his Don Quixote is enhanced by the happy
belly to honour, and his bota to truth, and original idea of bringing the sub
his constant and truly Spanish refer lime into a constant contact with
ence to self and his own interests, we the ridiculous; hence the never-failing
love him for the true affection which charm of the conversations of master
he bears to his master, for his Boswell and man, Zos graciosos razonamientos,
like admiration, which hopes every the well-compounded salad of prac
thing, believes everything, in spite of tical, utilitarian, all-for-the-maim
his hero’s eccentricities, which he can chance, common sense, with the most
not help noticing and condemning. elevated abstract romance of chivalrous
But none who have ridden far and ;wy¢7La¢u,q;ua ; yet the opposition, how
long with a single humble Spanish ever marked, is always natural. The
attendant, will think either his cre Hidalgo, tall, spare, and punctilious,
dulity or confidence in the_least forced. cladin armour and mounted on a steed
The influence of the master spirit over worthy of the burden, is balanced by
the marl is unbounded; nor is it any the short, round, fat, and familiar
exaggeration to say, that these squires squire, clad in his pmlo pa/rdo, and
end in believing their Englis “ amo ” ' straddling his ignoble “rm-2'0.” The
to be invincible and infallible, if not one brave, temperate, and vigilant, the
supernatural, although not perhaps other cowardly, greedy, and somno
owing to a very orthodox spiritual con lescent: never was the tel maitre tel
nexion. Hence the Spanish troops, valet doctrine more contradicted. The
composed of such materials, enter master, always reasoning well and
tained, said the Duke (Disp. May 6, acting absurdly; the servant, like the
1812), an opinion that our soldiers Spaniard in general, seeing clearly and
were invincible, and that it was only distinctly what is brought closely to
necessary for them to appea/r (like him, but with no wider grasp than his
Santiago) to secure success. The at own petty profit and locality. Both,
tachment of these fine fellows becomes however, are always and equally se
devotion, and they will follow their rious, and intensely in earnest; the
new master to the end of the world knight never losing sight of his high
like a dog, leaving their own home, calling, the squire of his own eating,
and kith and kin. Neither is the ad interest, and island, and, to make per
mirable and decorous conduct of San fection perfect, both speaking Spanish,
cho, when made a governor, at all in that m ' cent and ceremonious
variance with Catholic Spanish or Ori- ; idiom, and yet so capable of expressing
ental usages. There the serf is the the proverbial mother wit of the lower
raw material for the Pasha and Regent. classes. This state-paper language of
“ Debajo de ser hombre puedo venir a’ big promise, and beggarly, not to say
ser Papa,” says Sancho. In Spain, as ridiculous, performance, has long been,
in the East, the veriest jack in oflice, and longwill be, the natural and ap
armed with authority, becomes in his propriate vernacular of juntas and
240 ROUTE 9.—LA MANCHA——DON QUIXOTE. Sect. II.
generals, and the multitudinous Quix vey a sort of vulgarity, which they
otes and Quesadas of the Peninsula. neither do, nor were intended to do,
This truth to Spanish nature, and with Spaniards. Cervantes, like Shak
the constant contrast of the sublime spere, is honourably distinguished from
and the ridiculous, of grandeur and his contemporaries, by an avoidance of
poverty, runs like a vein of gold those coarse, dirty, and indecent allu
throughout the whole novel. If true sions, which were then so prevalent in
vrit consist in bringing together things the picaresque and fashionable litera
which have no apparent connexion, ture, insomuch that he was condemned
then all books must yield to this. The as austere: he felt that a want of
high is always being brought alongside decency is a want of sense. His
the low by the master, and the low moral is always high, he shuns and
raised up to the high by the servant, by
abhors the low,—odit profanum vulgus
Don Quixote in ventas, and by Sancho et arcet. With him repressed thought
among dukes and duchesses. It is the took refuge in light burlesque, in hidden
true Mock Heroic, and another charm irony, and side-wind assaults. His
is the propriety of the story: every critical taste led him equally to eschew
the affected euphuisms of the day ; his
thing is possible, nay probable, to hap
pen to any one whose head was turned tact and judgment alwags kept his wit
by knight - errantry, and who set and ridicule in its proper place, while
forth in search of adventures at that a rich air of poetry, and a dramatic
period and in that country. The delineation of character, which are
simple-spoken villager, thus transported breathed over the whole, show that he
into new society, delights mankind by was not merely a writer of novels, but
his earnestness, his absence of all pre oi tragedy almost reaching the epic.
tension to be saying good things, and Never let Don Quixote be out of our
his utter unconsciousness of the merri readers’ alforjas. Let it be one of the
ment which they produce. He never “ little books-” which Dr. Johnson said
laughs at his own jokes, which others no man ought ever “ not to have in his
do all the more, for although he never pocket.” It is the best HAND-BOOK for
read a word of his countryman Quinc La Mancha, moral and geographical:
tilian, he fully acts on his principle :— there is nothing in it imaginary except
“ Quam plurimurn dictis severitas af the her0’s monomania. It is the best
fert, sitque ridiculum id ipsum quia qui comment on Spaniards, who themselves
dicit non ride .” (Inst. vi. 3.) So form the most explanatory notes on
Sancho, like Falstaff, is not only droll the work, which reflects the form and
himself, but the cause of wit in others. pressure of them and their country.
The happy idea of juxta-position of One word on the diflerent and the
this novel is one reason why all nations best editions of this Shakspeare of
love it; however ill translated, there Spain."" Happy the man whose eye
is no mistaking the rich racy wit of can glance on a goodly set of the
sayings, doings, and situations; from
our delight in this well-conceived plot, on' the
Cervantes and Shskspeare died nominally
some day—Pellicer says, 23rd April,
and in our eagerness to get on with the 1616; but it must always be remembered, in
story, to the master and his man, we comparing Spanish dates with English, that
skim over the episodes, the beautiful dates apparently the same are not so in reality.
The Gregorian calendar was adopted in Spain
descriptions, the rural and poetical dis in 1582, in England in 1751. We must there
quisitions. The delicate Spanish “ Bor fore make an allowance between the old style
racha” is, however, untranslatable; and the new style, and add to the English date,
in order to obtain the true corresponding Spanish
like Burgundy, it must be quafied on date previously to 1751, 10 days up to 1699, and
the spot; the aroma is too fine for 11 afterwards. Cervantes lived and died poor.
transportation. The proverbs of San Spain, ever ungrateful to those who serve her
best, raised no monument to his memory. It
cho are comparatively misplaced out is only the other day that she has given him a.
of Spain. To English ears they con stone, to whom living she denied bread.
Andalusia. ROUTE 9.-—I3OI\' QUIXOTE——BEST EDITIONS. 241
earliest, worthily arrayed in fawn, olive, missed the charm, and turned English
and tender-tinted old morocco! and gold into German silver.
such as may be seen in the Grenville Cervantes, like Velazquez, was not
collection of the British Museum. The merely a portrait-painter of the Hidal
first edition of the first part, Juan de go, but a poet—a critic of poets, and
la Cuesta, Mad. 1605 ; the first edition somewhat too true a one to be very po
of the same, as amended by the author, p_ular—-an author of comedy, tragedy,
Juan de la Cuesta, Mad. 1608: the satire, and light novels. To him was
first edition of the second part, Juan granted that rarest gift of the Deity, in
de la Cuesta, Mad. 1615 ; and consult vention, that spark of the C'1'eator’.s- own
Brunet, “ Manuel du Libra-ire ” (i. 370), prerogative. The popularity of Don
and “ Nouvelles Recherches ” (i. 295). Quixote has eclipsed, and justly, the
Of the reprints of the original text the other works of Cervantes, and his taste
first really fine one was published in and style in the drama approached too
London by Tonson, 4 vols. 4to. 1737, nearly to the Greek theatre to succeed
as the first really critical one was that with Spaniards, whose Esyoafiolismo
of John Bowles, 6 vols. 4to. 1781, and prefers the particular nature by which
from which every subsequent commen it is surrounded. His “ Numantia”
tator has borrowed largely. Of mo and “ Trato de Argel” have been com
dern Spanish editions‘ the finest, that pared to the “ Persae” and “Prome
“de lujo,” was published for the Aca theus.” This Iberian Eschylus gave
demy of Madrid, by Ibarra, 4 vols. f0. way before the rising sun of Lope de
1780. That of Juan A_nt°' Pellicer, Vega; he retired as Walter Scott did
6vols. 8vo. Mad. 1797, contains many before Byron, to immortalise himself
' valuable notes. The last, and not the by his novels. Lope de Vega was also
least, is that of Don Diego Clemencin, imitated by the elegant and poetical
the author of the “ Memoirs of Queen Calderon and the soft harmonious Guil
Isabella,” 6 vols. 4to. 1833-39. len de Castro. These three illustrious
Don Quixote has been translated authors were as nearly contemporaries
into most languages; but England, as Eschylus, Sophocles, and Euripides
whose practical genius had anticipated among the G-reeks ; Shakspere, Ben
this travestie of the knight-errant in the Jonson, and Ford among the English.
Sir Topaz of Chaucer,——England, the They elevated their stage to the highest
real nation for wit and genuine cari pitch of excellence, from whence it
cature, the land of Butler, Fielding, soon declined, for such is the condition
and I-[ogarth,—has published far more of human greatness. The first edition
splendid translations of Don Quixote of the theatrical works of Cervantes,
than the rest of the continent. The “ Ocko Comedias y Ocho Enbremeaes,”
best, in some respects, is the earliest, was published at Mad. by the Viuda
that of Thomas Skelton, 1612-1620, de Alonzo Martin, in 1615. It was
which breathes the spirit of the age republished at Mad. in 2 vols., 1749.
and quaint manners. Of those by The amusing little satire in verse of
Smollett, Jarvis, and Motteux, the last Cervantes, “El Viaje al Parnaso,” has
is the very worst. It is, however, a not been sufficiently estimated out of
peccado mortal——a heresy-—to read Don Spain. The first edition is that of
Quixote except in his own language. Alonzo Martin, Mad. 1614 ; Sancha
Such authors, like Dante, fix a language ; republished it at Mad. in 1784.
from the feeling that they cannot be The first edition of his other novels,
adequately translated we learn the ori “ Novelas earemplares,” that ofJuan de
ginal. What idea can be formed of Cuesta, Mad. 1613, is rare: in default
Shakspere, when curled and powdered of which the collector must be con
by Monsieur Ducis? Even Schiller tented with the Mad. edition of Sancha,
and Schlegel, translating into a cognate 2 vols. 1783; “Les trabajos dePers:iles,"
idiom a cognate work, have often were first published at Mad. in 1617.
Spain.—L M
242 nours 9.—-sramsn rnovaass-vALnEPs>?As. Sect. II.
One word now for honest Sancho mata are truly antique, and none wrote
Panza’s proverbs, Re;/‘ranes, which are ,them neater than the Spaniard Mar
peculiarly classical, Oriental, and 1 tial. Of such class was the inscription
Spanish. These ethical maxims, Fm on the girdle of Hern1ione—-¢i;.:/ _u| xx:
pm, these wise saws and instances, are _un Auwzflz; nv '71; exn ,u’ 2-raga: compare
in the mouth of every Solomon or them with the devices on the Spanish
Sancho of the Peninsula ; they are the cuchillos of Albecete, the “cutler’s
“refrain,” the chorus and burden of poetry.”
their song : they are the philosophy of ‘ Hence to Valdepefias, a straggling
the many, the condensed experience and mud-built place of some 11,000 souls,
knowledge of ages, when the wit of one , with an indifferent inn. The red blood
man becomes the wisdom of thousands. 1 of the grape issues from this valley of
The constant use of a refran gives the ,‘ stones, and is the produce of the Bur
Spaniard his sententious, dogmatical gundy vine, transplanted into Spain.
admixture of humour, truism, twaddlc, The liquor is kept in caves and in huge
and common sense ; a proverb well in tinajas or jars; when removed it is
troduced—magnas secatres: it is as de put into goat and pig-skins, cueros,
cisive of an argument in Spain as a bet such as Don Quixote attacked. The
is in England. This shotting a dis wine, when taken to distant places, is
course always is greeted with a smile generally adulterated; and, however
from high or low: it is essential, na much is pretended to be sold in Lon
tional, and peculiar, like the pitched i don, “neat as imported,” nothing is
skin borracha to Spanish wines, and more difficult than to get it there pure
garlic in their stews: therefore we have and genuine. Wlien pure, it is rich,
sometimes lardcd our humble pages fruity, full-bodied, high-coloured, and
with this flavouring condiment. will keep well, and improve for 10
Collectors of Spanish proverbs may years. The best Bodegas are those
purchase Prooerbios, Lopez de Mendo which belonged to Don Carlos, Juan
za, fol. Sevilla, 1509; Re;/‘runes, Her Puente, and the Marques dc Santa
nan Nunez el comendador, fol. Sala Cruz, who has a mansion here. The
manca, 1555; or the lite. ed., Lérida, wine is worth on the spot about 41.
1621, which has the curious work of the pipe; the land-carriage is, how
Mallara reprinted with it, the original ever, expensive, and it is apt, when
edition of which, entitled La Philoso conveyed in skins, to be tapped and
phia Vulgar, by Joan de Mallara, is watered by the muleteers, whence vino
a folio, Sevilla, 1568, and absolutely moro—that is, wine which has never
necessary to curious collectors. There been thus baptized-—is proverbially
is also Lu;/ares communes, 4to., printed popular: Valdepefias sometimes goes
at Madrid, 1613, by Juan de la Cuesta, wrong during the sea voyage; the best
the publisher of Cervantes. The mo plan is to send up double quarter sherry
dern collection by Repulles, in 6 duo. casks, which then must be conveyed to
volumes, is useful. Cadiz or Santander.
Santa Cruz de Mudela is a dull, un The town of Valdepeiias was sacked
wholesome town: pop. 5500. It is cele by the invaders, June 6, 1808, under
brated for its garters, which the women Liger Bellair; 80 houses were burnt,
offer for sale to the passengers; some and the unresisting, unarmed popula
are gaily embroidered and enlivened tion, butchered in the cellars in drunken
with apposite mottos, e. g. sport (Toreno, iv.).
" re digan estas ligas Valdepcfias lies about half-way be
M1’; penas 3/fatiga.s." tween Granada and Madrid; those
Soy de mi duerlo ,- Feliz quien las who wish to go to Estremadura will
aparia; intrepido es a/mar, de todo sale turn oif to the rt. through Saceruela.
vencidor; and so forth; but “H0ni~ The geologist and botanist, proceeding
soit qui mal y pense. These epigram to Seville, may make a riding detour,
...__.__,--2-sq-,--_-M.
Andalucia. ROUTE 9.'—CUEVA DE MONTESINOS. 243
visiting Ciudad Real and Almaden the Ca/mpo de Montiel. This site was
(see p. 247), and thence to Cordova, the last scene of the fratricidal warfare
avoiding thereby the uninteresting between Pedro the Cruel and Henry of
angle of Bailen and Andujar ; the Trastamara, who here butchered his
route will be found at p. 221. king and brother, aided by French
After leaving Valdepefias the misery knights, by whom the monarch was
of villages and villagers increases to held unfairly down in the death
Manzanares. Pop. 9000. Pa/radar del struggle. The decisive battle of Mon
Carrillo. The men get browner-and tiel was fought Wednesday, March 14-,
poorer, the women more ugly, country 1369. The dilatory Spaniard Pedro
and cloaks more rusty and threadbare. was s rised before his forces joined,
Hemp is a luxury for shoes, and the by the rapid Frenchman Mosen Bel
rare stocking is made like that of Va tran de Claquin, the “hero ” Du Ques
lencia, without feet, an emblem of a lin of the French, un oil traidor
student’s purse, open and containing according to the Spaniards. (See Cro
nothing. The cloaked peasants grouped nica del Rey Don Pedro, c. vi.). An
around their mud cabins seem to be indiiferent history of this king has been
statues of silence and poverty, yet the written by P. Merimée. The cave lies
soil is fertile in corn and wine. At the about 1 L. from the village of Osa ole
Venta de Quesada Don Quixote (que Montiel _.- it is near the Ermita de Saa
sada, lantern-_jawed) was knighted, and lices, and one of the lagunas, of which
Cervantes must have sketched the actual by the way there are 11, and not 7, as
inn, and its still existing well. The Cervantes says. They are full of fish ;
water communicates with the Gruadiana, each has its own name, that of La Col
the under-ground Mole of Spanish gada being the largest, deepest, and
rivers. Indeed, the ancient name, Anas, most interesting, because its cool waters
is derived from this “hide and seek” are guarded by the rock-built ruined
propensity; Hanas in the Punic, and castle of Rochafricla, in which lived
Hanasa in the Arabic, signifying “to Roca Florida, to whom Montesinos
appear and disappear.” It is called the was married.
I/ucalee by the Spanish Gitanos. The Al Castillo llaman Rocha,
Wadi-Anas, like the Guadalquivir, eats Y at la fuente Pride.
its dull way through loomy banks—a These lakes, these eyes of the Gua
subterranean not a submarine Alpheus : diana, which, according to the Don,
it rises in the swamps, or Lagumzs de were fed to overflowing, as the Nile was
Ruidera, and loses itself again 15 miles by the tears of Isis (Paus. x. 32, 18),
from its source, at Tomelloso ; it reap from the tears of Belerma, with her 7
pears, after flowing 7 L. underground daughters_and 2 maidens weeping for
at Daymiel. The lakes which it throws her Durandante, slain at Roncevalles,
up are called the eyes, Los qjos de la are really formed by the accumulation
Guadiana, and the ground above is of waters which flow down from the
called the bridge. This and the eyes Sierra de Alca/raz. The Cueva de
lead to trivial witticisms, in regard to Montesinos (Don Quix. 23) itself is
the dark glancing Manchegas, and this about 40 yards wide and 60 deep, and
bridge’s superiority over the Pont Neuf is used as a refuge in storms by hunters
at Paris. The disappearance is not and shepherds. The entrance is blocked
sudden, like that of file Rhone, which up with underwood. As in the Don’s
descends into a gulf, as here it is sucked time, it is the haunt of bats and birds,
up into unpicturesque marshes. Their who have deposited a bed of guano
chief interest arises from Don Quixote. nearly a foot thick. The cave probably
The Cueva. de Montesinos, into which was part of an ancient mine, as a laby
the knight descended, although the rinth of shafts have been traced, and
name savours of romance and the heaps of metallic rubbish, escoriales,
peerage of Charlemagne, really exists in found. There is a lake at the bottom.
M 2
244 ROUTE 9.—EL TOBOS0——MADRlDF..IOS. Sect. II.
Perhaps Madridejos is the most I bashfulncss ” (De Rer. Var. i. 10). A
convenient place to start from on a new road is in contemplation from
trip into Don Quixote’s coimtry, as El 1 Pucrto Lapiche to Almaden, and hence
Toboso lies about 7 L. distant, through into Estremadura.
Guero 4-, and Oxa de Moniiel; and Four L. from Manzanares to the rt.
only 8 L., through Solana 1, Alhambra is Argamasilla de Alba, in the prison
3, and thence 4 more. A pleasant~ of which Cervantes is said to have
tour might be made by following the written his Don Quixote. According
Don’s route, which commentators have to a tradition in the village he was
laid down, or rather attempted, fora confined in the Casa de Med-rano.
Cervantes wrote with the greatest geo But free and immortal have been the
graphical carelessness and inaccuracy. works composed in durance vile: the
See, however the map of his route in Bible was translated by Luther in the
the 2nd vol. of Pelliser’s Madrid edi Castle of VVartburg; the prison-engen
tion, 1798. dered poem of Tasso, and the pilgrimage
El Toboso is a poor place on a plain, of Bunyan, roam over the world fresh,
although of a European reputation; and unconfined as the air we breathe.
the name is derived from the iobas, or Near Villa/rta the province of New
sort of porous stones, which still, as in Castile is entered, which here resembles
the time of Cervantes, are much used in La Mancha. Madfldejos, pop. 7000,
making water-jars. According to Pel has a nice, cool, refreshing inn. The
liccr and Cervantic commentators, the bread is exquisite, although -the water
original of the Don’s sweetheart Dul is bad, and the cheese not much better,
cinea, Aldonza Lorenzo Corchuelo, was however well it did for the Alforjas of
a Miss Aldonza (a word which means honest, hungry Sancho, and his mule
sweet) Zarco de Morales, and she lived teer digestion. The railroad which runs
in the still existing Casa de Torrecilla. in 3 h. to Madrid commences at Tem
El Toboso was moreover founded by bleque,a cold,stony,wretched place. La
Don Perez Correa, for whom the sun Guardia, rising on a ridge of rocks, was
stood still (see Detentudia, p. 218). once an outpost guard against the
Continuing the high road to Madrid Moors. This hamlet was the birthplace
is Puerto Lapiehe, a poor place, where ofJuan Pass-amonte, elNifi0 de Guardia,
the Don informed Sancho that they the theme of many a pen and pencil of
might get elbow-deep in adventures. Spain. The Toledan clergy in 1490
The “ Pass ” is placed between two accused the rich Jews of crucifying a
olive-clad gentle slopes, with sundry Christian boy at their Passovers, and
groups of windmills, which, being putting his heart into a Hosiia, and
smaller than ours, are really not un for the pretended sacrifice of this Juan,
like giants at a distance; they are the wealthiest Israelites were burnt
very numerous, for this is a count of and their chattels confiscated. This
much corn to grind, and little water accusation was very prevalent, e. g.
power. The crack-brained knight our St. William of Norwich, and
might well be puzzled by these mills, the boy Hugh of Lincoln. Consult,
for they were novelties at that time, on this legend, and miracles of eZNi1'io
having only been introduced into de Gua/rdia,works by Rodrigo de Yepes,
Spain in 1575, and had just before 4to. Madrid, 1583; by Juan Marieta,
perplexed even Cardan, the wise man 8vo., Mad. 1604 ; by Sebastian de
of his age, who describes one as if it Nieva ; by Ant. Guzman, 1720, and
had been a steam-engine: “Nor can I also by Pisa. The orthodox account
pass over in silence what is so won is painted in the parish church of La
derful, that before I saw it I could Guardia, and in the hermitage Jesus
neither believe nor relate it without the actual cave is shown in which the
incurring the imputation of credulity ; martyred boy was kept and scourged \
but 8 thirst for science overcomes three months before the Jews crucified
r
Anclalucia. noura 9.—ocA§.i—sr. narssr. 2-lo
him: (!l'8(l8l1Jl1ClB?l15. Here, and indeed ‘spectator of his own disgrace, Qving
generally in these corn-growing central no directions whatever, except -to order
plains, the traveller should remark the his reserve, a body of 15,000 men,
eras, the common Spanish and Oriental who had not fired a shot, to retreat.
threshing-floors in the open air, and He then, and Freire, the hero of San
the driving the trillo over the corn, Marcial! set the example of flight;
with horses, after a most Homeric nor did either even attempt to make a
fashion (see Gatherings, p. 115). The stand behind the impregnable rocks of
females hereabouts look half Swiss, half Despeiia-perros or Alcala la Real.
Dutch, with their blue and green petti Their unhappy troops, deserted by
coats and handkerchiefs under their their chiefs, could but follow their
chins. The miserable population, whose leaders. La Mancha was covered with
houses were burnt by the invaders, bur runaways. Soult took 42 cannon,
row like rabbits in troglodyte excava 26,000 prisoners, and killed 5000,
tions, whence they emerge to beg of the while his loss barely reached 1600.
diligences as they ascend the hill. The Spanish army disappeared from
Thence to Ocafia, between which and the face of the earth: after the Oriental
Los Barrios the Spaniards, Nov. 19, fashion, every man fled to his city and
1809, suffered a defeat, one of the country. But Ocafia is but a thing of
greatest of these many feats. In that Spain, past and present, where mis
year the Junta of Seville, urged by fortune is no school. Compare Me
intriguers who sighed to get back to dellin, Cindad Real, &c. Ocaiia was
Madrid, and by others who wished to forthwith sacked, and the precious
do without the English assistance, de archives of the Ayuntamiento burnt.
termined, in defiance of the Duke’s _ Buonapartc, who, jealous that it
warnings and entreaties, to assume the could be supposed in France that any
offensive. His letters seem really to one could do great things except him
have been Written after the events, and self (Fey, i. 159), scarcely noticed the
not before them, so completely, with event. “ Le .Mom'teur fit 5. peine men
the intuition of strong sense, did he tion de cette memorable aifaire, dont
understand the Spaniards; and so truly celui qui l’avait conduits eut pu comme
did he prophesy their certain discom César rendre compte en trois mots,
fiture, the loss of Andalucia, and his veni, vidi, vici.” Yet as a victory it
own compulsory retreat into Portugal. was most important, since it fixed
The Junta prepared an army of 60,000 Joseph on the tottering throne, gave
men, armed and equipped by English Granada to Sebastiani, Seville to Soult,
monies. The leader, one Juan Carlos and placed the treasures and supplies
de Areizaga, advanced from the defiles, of rich unpillaged Andalueia in their
giving out that the English were with clutches. “Alas!” said the Duke,whose
him; and such fear thereupon prevailed great plans were thus frustrated, “that
at Madrid, where the report was be a cause which promised so well a few
lieved, that the enemy thought at once weeks ago should have been so com
of retreating without a fight ; and had pletely lost by the ignorance, pre
Areizaga advanced, he must have sur sumqotion, and mismanagement of those
prised and overwhelmed the handful of to whose direction it was confided”
French at Aranjuez (Belmas, i. 99) : (Disp. Dec. 6, 1809). “Nothing would
having, however, by his delay given do but fighting great battles in plains,
Soult the moans of collecting troops, he 1 in which their defeat is as certain as
then, as if infatuated, risked a. battle in is the commencement of the battle.”
the plain. There two short hours more Ferdinand VII., a prisoner atValen<;ay,
than sufiiced for 25,000 brave French to was mean or false enough, probably
put 55,000 Spaniards to an indescribable both, to write to congratulate Joseph
rout, during which Areizaga placed i this on this victory (Schep.
incompetent i. 69); while
Areizaga—Honrad2s
himself on a belfry in Ocaiia, a mute
246 ROUTE 10.—vALnEPEfiAs TO ALMADEX. Sect. ll.
render defeat almost certain." He was 4158, of the Spaniards 1365. The Duke
the only man in the army who did not in public shielded Beresford, whose
see that the hill to the rt. was his really great capabilities for drilling the Por
vulnerable point, and where, to make tuguese he justly appreciated. “Ano
bad worse, he placed the Spaniards. ther such a battle, however,” wrote he
Soult, who saw the blot, attacked and privately, “ would ruin us. I am
drove them back without difficulty, and working hard to set all to rights again.”
the “ whole positionwas raked and com On the 21st he visited the field, and
manded.” Then Houghton led up the in a few weeks ofl'ered Soult another
57th, who saved the day, the Spaniards chance of another victory, which the
remaining, as at Barrosa, “quiet specta Marshal, who knew that a better man
tors.” “ Out of 1400 men 1050 were was come in, politely declined; he,
killed and wounded;” “the dead lay in however, claimed the “complete VlC
their ranks, every man with a wound in tory” as his ; and now his non-sacces is
the front.” Their brave leader fell at ascribed to the numerical superiority of
their head, cheering them on to the the English. Durosoir (Guide, 244)
simply states that 20,000 French fought
bayonet charge, which, as usual, settled
the alfair. “Then 1500 unwounded men, against 45,000 English or Spaniards;
the remnant of 7000, stood,” writes which Bory de St. Vincent (Guide, 109)
Napier, “ triumphant on the fatal hill.” makes out to be 22,000 against 50,000,
“ This little battalion,” says the Duke, Soult/s real forces amounting to 19,000
“alone held its ground against all the foot and 4000 horse; thus history is
French colonnes en masse.” Soult in written in France; for the truth, read
vain pushed on with the reserves under Napier 6), and his unanswerable
WVerle', who was killed, and his troops and unanswered replies to Beresford,
fled, throwing away their arms (Vict. et vol. vi. andtheDuke’s ‘Dispatches’ (vol.
Conq. xx. 242) : “ Mais que pouvuient vii.). The Portuguese also claim the
5000 baionettes contre un ennemi fighting as theirs: “apres la bataille
quatre fois plus nombreux ?”—for thus d’Albuera,” relates Schepeler, “j’en
1600 men are converted into 20,000 tendis moi-méme un oflicier Portugais
men in buck!-am by one dash of a dire, ‘Les Espagnols se sont battus
French pen. comme des Zions, les Portugais comme
Beresford, who had actually ordered des serpens, mais les Anglais Niente
Halket to retreat, was saved, says Na Niente!’ (not at a.l1,) dit-il avec dé
pier (xii. 6), by Col. Hardinge, who, on dain ;” and the Spaniard Blake, in his
his own responsibility, brought up Cole letter thanking the Regency for making
and Abercrombie; others, however, him a captain-general for his services
and Beresford’s dispatch, assign this on this day, never even alluded to
merit to Cole, who in fact was the su the English; and now-a-days, all the
perior oflicer. glory is claimed by Nosotros ; accord
Both armies bivouacked on the ing to Madoz (i. 343), the English di
ground; and had Soult the next day, vision was saved by Ballasterosl and
with his 15,000 Frenchmen, ventured this signal instance of Spanish inelfi
to renew the attack against 1600 Eng ciency termed, “ Una dc las mas dignas
lisl1, he must have succeeded ; but, glorias dcl Pueblo Espafiol J! Recently,
awed by their bold front, he retired, however, a sort of monument has been
leaving nearly 1000 wounded to his erected in which, credite posteri! even
repulser’s mercy. His army, even in the names of the English generals are
the words of Belmas (i. 184), his own insci-ibed—what a compliment to them
author, “ se débanda dans le plus ——pari passu, with those of the Spa
affreux désordre ; le moral se trouvait niards! For
Those who Badajoz,
wish to avoidsee Sect. can
Badajoz
fort aifecté.” The French real loss was
between 8000 and 9000 men—even they ride in one long day direct from Albuera
admit 2800; that of the English was to Merida, about 10 L. through Lobon.
Ronda <§' Granada. ( 251 )
SEOTIONIII.
RONDA AND GRANADA.
COXTENTS.
_i_>-—
Granada. The districts both of Ronda and Granada are an Alpine inter
change of hill and valley: although only separated a few leagues from the
plains and coasts of Seville and Malaga, the difference of climate and geo
graphy is most striking; thus, while the barley harvests are over in the tierra
caliente about the middle of May, the crops in the Vega of Granada are green
in June. These mountains form the barrier which divides the central zone
from the southern, and are a sort of offshoot from the great Sierra Morena
chain. Temperate .RO’!Ldt.l is consequently much resorted to in the summer
by the parched inhabitants of the hotter districts. Ronda, elevated amidst
its mountains, enjoys at once the fresh breezes from the sea and the open
country; the air is pure, rare, and bracing: thus, in summer the mornings
and evenings are cool, although the thermometer in the shade reaches 80° at
mid-day, when the prudent traveller, invalid or not, will restore his bodily
vigour by an indoor siesta.
The roads are steep, rugged, and bad: many are scarcely practicable even
for mules. The Spaniards in olden times never wished to render their
Seville frontier very accessible to the Moors, and now the fear of facilitating
an invasion from Gibraltar prevented the Bourbon from improving the com
munications. The posudus are not much better than the roads, and suit the
iron frames, and oil and garlic ilia and digestions of the smugglers and robbers,
who delight, like the chamois, in hard fare and precipices. The traveller
must attend to the provend or “ proband,” as the great authority Captain
Dalgetty would say: a caballero visiting these hungry localities should “ victual
himself with vivers ” for three days at least, as there is no knowing when and
where he may get a tolerable meal. Ronda and Granada are good central
spots for excursions. Their snowy sierras are river sources for the tierras
<.-.1/icntcs, and the fruits and vegetation in the fresh hills are those of Switzer
land; thus to the botanist is offered a range from the hardiest lichen of the
Alps, down to the orange and sugar-cane in the maritime strips. This serrania
is best seen in the summer, for at other times either the cold is piercing, or
the rains swell the torrents, which become impassable.
The natural strength of this country has from time immemorial suggested
sites for “ hill-forts ” (Hirt. ‘ B.H.’ 8), the type of which is clearly Oriental;
perched everywhere like eagles’ nests on the heights, and exactly where a
painter would have placed them for a picture, they are the homes of brave
highlanders, to whom the chase and smuggling are daily bread. The French,
during the Peninsular war, were so constantly beaten back by these sharp
shooters that they became very shy of attacking hornets’ nests fuller of lead
than gold. These partisans were true sons of the Iberians of old, those Spanish
cohorts which defeated the Romans “ sub jugo montis,” in rocky defiles, the
types of Roncesvalles and Bailen. “ Adsuetoir montibus et ad concursandum
inter saxa rupesque.” (Livy, xxii. 18). The hills were their “ country ;”
for Diod. Siculus has anticipated Rob Roy’s designation of his wild domain.
“ The Gue/'illera,” said the Duke, “ is the only useful arm ; he is better ac
quainted with his trade than what is culled the ofiicer of the regular Spanish
army; he knows the country better, and is better known to the inhabitants,
and above all he has no pretension to military character” (Disp. May 3d,
l8l0). The raw material of the guerillero was in all times the bandit; robbery
was the stock on which this patriotism best sprouted. Compare Livy, xxviii.
21; Florus, ii. 17, 15; Strabo, iii. 238, with the modern warwhoop, “ Viva
Fernando 3/ vamos robando.” The system of smuggling is the best organised
one in this uncommercial land, where the contrabandism corrects the blunder
ing chancellors of exchequers and custom-house oflicers. Spain has an
enormous frontier to watch, and is a land in which an honest oflicial seldom
grows; all duties above 25 per cent. everywhereencourage the smuggler, and
here the fiscal regulations are so ingeniously absurd, that the fair merchant is
Ronda & Granada. THE SMUGGLERS or norms. 253
as much hampered thereby, as the irregular trader is favoured; the operation of
prohibitory and excessive duties on articles which people must, and therefore
will have, leads to breaches of the peace, injury to the fair dealer, and loss to
the revenue; the enormous profits tempt the peasantry from honest occupa
tions, and render those idle, predatory, and ferocious, who under a wiser system
would remain virtuous and industrious; the fiscal is the curse of Spain and
Spaniards, it fosters a body of reckless, active armed men, who know the country
well, and are ready for any outbreak. They emerge, elements of disturb
ance, from their lairs, whenever the political horizon darkens, just as the stormy
petrel comes forth from his hidden home to usher in the tempest. Smuggling
habituates the already well-disposed Spaniard to breaches of the law, to a
defiance of constituted authority; and a hatred to the excise, which pinches his
belly, is as natural to the heart of man, as a dislike to duties on dress is to the
soul of woman. In Spain the evasion is not deemed a heinous crime, or a moral
oifence, but barely a conventional one; a malum prolzibitum, not a mal-:1m per se ,
those who defraud the custom-house are only considered as attacking an odious
administration by which the nation at large is robbed. The masses in Spain
go heart and mind with the smuggler, as they do in England with the poacher.
They shield a bold useful man who supplies them with a good article at a fair
price. Nay, some of the mountain curates, whose flock are all in that line,
just deal with the offence as a pecado venial, and readily absolve those who
pay for a very little detergent holy water. '
The Spanish smuggler, so far from feeling himself to be a criminal or de
graded, enjoys in his country the brilliant reputation which attends daring
personal adventure, among a people proud of individual prowess. He is the
model of the popular sculptor and artist—the hero of the stage, its Macheath :
he comes on dressed out in full Majo costume, with his retajo or blunderbuss
in his_ hand, and sings the well-known Seguidilla : “ Y0 que soy contra
bandista, yo ho! ” to the delight of the old and young, from the Straits to the
Bidasoa, tide-waiters not excepted. In his real character he is welcome in
every village; he brings sugar and gossip for the curate, money and cigars for
the attorney, ribbons and cottons for the women. He is magnificently dressed,
which has a great charm for all Moro-Iberian eyes, whose delight is Boato, or
external ostentation. He is bold and resolute. “ None but the brave deserve
the fair.” He is a good rider and shot, knows every inch of the intricate
country, wood or water, hill or dale; he swears and smokes like a man, and
displays, in short, all those daring, active, and independent personal energies
which a debasing misgovernment has elsewhere too often neutralized.
The expensive preventive service of Resgum-dos, Oarabineros, &c., which is
everywhere established in order to put down the smuggler, in reality rather
assists him, than otherwise. The cmpleados of all kinds receive a very small
salary, and that is often ill-paid. It is impossible to resist the temptation of
making in one evening more than a six-months’ pay: practically the custom
house ofiicers receive their emoluments from the smuggler, who can readily
obtain all the oflicial documents, legal certificates, &c., on false returns ; again
on the frontier, where armed parties are stationed to intercept smugglers, a
free passage is bargained for with those very guards who were placed there
to prevent it; quis custodes custodiet? The commander, when duly bribed,
pretends to receive information of smuggling in a distant quarter, withdraws
his men, and thus leaves everything open for “ running the cargo.” These
gentry; in fact, only worry inoffensive travellers, or, in a word, all who do not
pay them hush money.
The traveller near Gibraltar will see enough of the Contrabmzdista Rmuieaio,
and a fine fellow he is: a cigar and a bota of wine open his heart at the Venta
fire-side, and he likes and trusts an Englishman, not that he wont rob him if
in want of cash. The C'0'ntrabcmdz'sta of Ronda is one of the most picturesque
of his numerous class in a locality where “ everybody smuggles."
254 noun: 13.—0SUNA. Sect. III.
inaccessible in wet weather and winter.
Posada, Caballo Blanca, and del Rosario,
ROUTE l3.— SEVILLA TO Gaanana, BY
Osuna.
at the outside, coming from Seville.
The apex of the triangular hill is
There are many ways of performing crowned by a. castle and the colegiata ;
the journey from Seville to Granada; the streets are straggling; the build
lst, by steam to Cadiz and Malaya, and ings are whitened with cal de llloron ;
the carnation pinks, grown in pots
thence by Loja in the diligence ; 2ndly,
by riding across the wild country imbedded in the houses, are superb.
through Osuna ; 3rdly, by going in the Osuna was called Gemina Urban
diligence to C07‘dO'Ua, and then riding orum, because 2 legions, and both of
over the mountains by Alcahi la Real; Rome, happened to be quartered there
and 4thly, which perhaps is the best at the same time. The Spanish annalists
for ladies, by coach to Andnjar, and prefer deriving the name from Osuna,
then across to Jam, or by the Madrid daughter of Hispan, who married
diligence up to Bailen, and thence tak Pyrrhus, a killer of boars; hence the
ing the down diligence to Granada. arms of the city, a castle with 2 boars
chained to a window. The early coins
Gandul . . . . . 3
Aralml . . . . - . 4 7 found here are numerous and curious
La Puebla . . . . 4 ll (Florez, ‘ M.’ ii. 625). Oszma was
Osuna . . . . . 3 14 taken from the Moors in 1240 ; Philip
Pedrera . . . - . . 3 17
Roda . . . . . . . 2 19 II. granted it to Pedro Giron, whom
Alameda . . . . . . 2 21 Francois I. used to call Le bel Espagnol.
Va. de Archidona . .. . 4 25 For this noble family (doubtless de
Loja . . . . . . s as scendants of the fabulous Geryon) con
Va. de Cacin . . . - . 2 30
Granada . . . - . . 6 36 sult the ‘ Compendio de los Girones,’
Jer". Gudiel, Aleala, 1577. The Girons
This direct road, between these im became the true patrons of Osuna;
portant cities, can scarcely be called thus Juan Tellez, in 1534, founded the
one; the line is, however, practicable church, and his son, in 1549, the col
for carriages during the summer, and lege. Ascend to the castle: the
is taken by the galera, which performs panorama is extensive. The colegiata,
the journey in 6 days; in England a built in 1534, in the mixed Gothic
railroad would run it in 6 h. There is and cinque-cento style,was converted
a talk of one to Osuna. Theposadas are by Soult into a citadel and magazine,
bad ; attend to the provend. Well-girt for, as in olden times, Osuna is an im
riders may do the journey in 4 days. portant military position, from its fine
These districts, although the soil is spring, water being wanting in the
fertile and the suns genial, have been plains (Hirt. ‘B. H.’4l). The Marshal’s
abandoned by the Spaniard since the soldiers amused themselves with mu
Moorish conquest. Corn-plains have tilating the terra cotta sacred subjects
become de/iesas, overgrown with pal over the cinque-cento portal, and with
mitos, and the lair of the wolf and firing at the grand Crucifixion by
robber; those travelling with ladies Ribera, which was afterwards restored
should scarcely venture on this route by Joaquin Cortes. There also are
Without an escort. other 4 gloomy pictures by Ribera in
At Gandal is :1 Moorish castle, amid the Rctablo, which were brought from
palms and orange-groves, after which Naples by the celebrated Viceroy Duke.
a wide level leads to Arahal, where the The marbles of the pavement are
posada del Sol is tolerable; Moron rises on fine; Soult carried olf more than 5
its conical hill to the rt. Osuna, a large cwt. of ancient church plate; a gilt Cor
town of 15,000 souls, hot in summer, dovan cup has alone escaped. Visit
but healthy, domineers over its fer the underground portions of this ch.
tile plain. Although a central point The Patio del Sepulcro is in Berruguete
it is left in a most scandalous want of taste. In the Sacristia is a Christ, by
common communications, and nearly Morales. The vaults are supported by
Ronda & Granada. ROUTE 13.—~LOJA. 255
Moorish arches. The mortal remains yond rises the Sierra Nevada, with its
of the Girons lie in a labyrinth of diadem of snow.
sepulchral passages. The presentDuke, Inns: The best, de los Angeles, is but
12th of his family, scarcely attends bad in spite of the patronage of angels!
sufiiciently to the decorous condition be content therefore, ye mortals-ditto
of the ashes of his ancestors. Jesus Nazarene and Jose‘. Loja is rapidly
Leaving Osuna, 2 short L. are Aguas improving; pop. nearly 14,000; with
dalces, whose sweet waters create an a new posada and theatre. This
oasis in these aromatic dehesas. Estepa place, being the key to Granada, was
lies to the l. about 2 L. from Roda, on once of great importance. Ferdi
the road to Ecfja; some traces of nand and Isabella besieged it in 1488,
Astapa are yet visible on the hills of and took it after 34 days, very much
Cmltorra and Camorrillo. This guer by the aid of the English archers
rillero hill-fort rivalled Numantia, and under Lord Rivers. Washington Irv
when besieged by the Romans, 547 ing, in his charming ‘ Chronicle of the
U. 0., its inhabitants destroyed them Conquest of Granada’ (which here
selves, their wives and children, on a should be read), gives a “ romantic”
funeral pile, rather than surrender account of this affair (ch. xxxix.).
(Livy, xxviii. 23). For the old coin “ Lord Rivers was the first to penetrate
age see Florez, ‘ M.’ ii. 624. the suburbs, and was severely wounded.
Roda is, as its Arabic name Rauda His majesty visited the tent of the
implies, a garden of roses 5.2,; the English earl, and consoled him for the
posada is clean: between Pedrera and loss of his teeth by the consideration
Venta de Arc/zidona are the immemorial that he might otherwise have been de
robber haunts, la Va. de (Jobalea and el prived of them by natural decay;
cortijo de Cerezal, where Jose Maria so whereas the lack of them would now
' long ruled; indeed this broken and be esteemed a beauty rather than a
intricate country is made for ladwmes defect, serving as a trophy of the
and beasts of prey; the aromatic glorious cause in which he had been
underwood and wild evergreen oaks engaged.” The earl replied that “ he
gave thanks to God and to the Holy
are scattered in a park-like manner all
the way between Osuna and Loja. Virgin for being thus honoured by a
Alameda lies amidst its olives and visit from the most potent king in
. corn-fields in the bottom of a valley; Christendom; that he accepted with
the Postlda bad ; the shooting is excel all gratitude his gracious consolation
lent. Passing on to the rt. in the plain for the loss he had sustained, though
is the salt lake of Antequera, which he held it little to lose two teeth in the
glitters like a mirror; the city and the service of God, who had given him
Lovers’ Rock lie beyond (see Rte. 21). all.” But different is the /n'storz'cal
A wild iniquitous cross road com account of an eye-witness, Peter
municates between Antequera and An Martyr, whose authentic epistles none
dujar, 19 L. through Benamcgi Cabra should fail to peruse in these localities
and Porcuna; and another equally cut (Lett. lxii. Elzevir ed.): Ab orbe venit
throat track runs from Antequera to’ Britano juvenis, animo, genere, divitiis,
.Eci_j1, 12} L. through La Roda. After et titulo pollens, Scalse comes (Lord
quitting the Va. de Arc/tidana by all Scales) cum pulcherrima familiarum
means go alittle out of the way to the patrio more arcubns et pharetris arma
rt., and pass through Archidona; after torum caterva. Is post fortia testibus
ascending the steep Puerto del Rey, we Hispanis facta, dum per scalas rnurum
reach Loja, which is, as its Arabic name
inter consortes scutatus ascenderet,
implies, the “ Guardian,”the advanced
saxo percussus ad tentoria deportatur
sentinel of the Vega of Granada; theexanimis. Chirurgorum cura exac
opening view is most picturesque. The
tissima vitam servat, sed anterioribus
castle towers from a rock in the middle
ictu saxi dentibus amissis. Reginam
of the town ; below runs the Genil, ubi primum ex tentorio licuit exire,quaz
crossed by a Moorish bridge, while be nuper advenerat, it salutatum : dolenti
256 noun: 14.-o01u>ovA T0 GRANADA. Sect. III.
oris fmditatem Reginae ad ablatos
dentes, juvehis alludens, ‘ Christo qui
totam eam fabricaverat domum, fene Rorrrn l4.—SEVILLE T0 GRANADA,
stellam se fecissc, qua facilius quod BY Coa1>ovA.
intus laterat inspici possit,’ lepide re
spondit : placuit Regibus argute dic By far the best plan is to go to Cor
tum, atque honcstis illum muneribus dova in the diligence in about 22
donatum ad natale solum in Britanniam hours, and then hire horses and ride
retniserunt.” Ferdinand gave to Loja over the mountains. The roads are
for arms, gules a castle or, and a bridge very bad, the inns no better; yet by
argcnt, with the device “ Flor cntre attending to the provend the thing is
Espinas.” to be endured. It has been done in
It was to Loja that Gonzalo de Cor 2 days, but 3 are better. The scenery
dova, el Gran Capitan, and Spain’s is alpine and full of picturesque castles
almost only real Great Captain,retired and localities, celebrated in Moro-His
from the suspicions of the ungrateful pano foray.
Ferdinand, who, like an eastern khalif Co1movA T0 GRANADA.
and a modern junta, dreaded a too vic
Santa Crucita . . . . . 4
torious servant. Yet here such was the Castro del Rio . . . . 2§ .. 61>
prestige of his influence and career,that, Baena . . . . . . 2 .. sl
like Wallestein, his mere name im Alcalala Real . . . . 6 .. 141}
rovised armies in the hour of need of Puerto Lope . . . - - 3 .. 17}
Pinos Puente . . - . . 2 __ 19}
is master. He died at Granada of a Granada - . . . . . 3 .. 22}
quartan fever, Dec. 2nd, 1515. Mr. Pres
cott has given us a correct sketch of After passing over tiresome dehesas
his life and character in his admirable and plains, producing some of the
‘ Ferdinand and Isabella‘ (see also our finest wheat in the world, ascending
paper in the ‘ Quar. Rev.’ cxxvii. 51). and descending Cuestas, crossing and
Charles V., in 1526, employed Hernan recrossing the Guadajoz, we reach
Perez del Pulgar to write a chronicle Castro del Rio, built on an eminence,
of his former chief the great Captain. and hence pass through wild districts
Seville, 1527. It is rare, but was re studded with eagles’ nest villages and
printed at Madrid in 1834, by M. de atalayas, to Baena, a ride of some ll ll.
la Rosa, with a poor life and notes.~ Baena,with a poor but dear posada,
There is also a biography by the com is one of the most considerable central
monplace Quintana. The old ‘ Coronica towns of these districts: Pop. above
del Gran Capitun,’ folio, Alcala de He 11,000. The posada is bad. The old
nares, 1584, although interesting as a town was built on the hill above,
romance, is, as Cervantes says (speak which is crowned with a castle, once
ing through the Curate), a true history: the property of the great Captain. The
the French work by Florian is worse modern one below has a fair plaza. The
than worthless in this respect. It was Santa Maria has some old inscriptions
to Loja also in our days that Narvaez and a good silver Custodiu. The site
retired when out of favour with of the Roman town is still marked, and
Christina. 'l‘he road to Granada, antiquities are constantly found and
neglected for centuries, has at last been destroyed: in 1833 a sepulchre was dis
put in order. covered, said to be that of the families
Between Loja and Lachar are two of Pompey and Gracchus.
wretched ventas: Lu del Pulgar might The climate, olives, corn, water, and
better be called de las Pulgas, from its fruits are delicious : the river Marbella
host of vermin. Passing a mountain produces a sort of tench called here
torrent, is la Va. do Cacin, and then arrigucla, which the naturalist should
opens the celebrated Vega of Granada examine and eat. The mineralogy and
like the promised land. botany deserve attention. Near Bacna
a curious yellow orchis abounds. The
. armorial bearings of the town are five
Ronda dr Granada. Rourr: l4.—CORDOVA T0 GRANADA. 257
Moors’ heads, which were cut ofi' by of. The very picturesque town, with its
five Spaniards of Baena, after a. despe bold towers,rises on a conical hill: the
rate combat. streets are steep, the Alameda is charm
From Baena the direct road runs ing. This was once the stronghold of
to Antequcra, 12 L. ; through Cobra the Alcaide lbn Zaide: being taken, in
(jfigabrum, Agabra, Punice—a fort), 3 1340, by Alonso XI. in person, it ob
L., which is a rich agricultural town. tained the epithet Real. The beacon
Pop. under 9,000. It once was the see tower La Mata, el Farol, the light to
of a bishop: the tortuous town is built guide prisoners escaping from the
under two hills. The tower of Homenage Moors, was erected by the Conde de
of the old castle remains: the Plaza, Tendilla, the first governor of the
although irregular, is striking; and Alhambra. Here, Jan. 28th, 1810, Se
the streets on the level are handsome bastiani came up with the runaways
and cleansed with running water. from Ocafia and again routed Areizaga
There is a curious old stone used for and Freire, who fled, without even
the font in San Juan. The parish ch. making a show of defence, to Murcia,
de la Ascension was a mosque, and has abandoning guns, baggage, and every
been badly altered inside after the thing. A mountian defile to the l. leads
model of the cathedral of Cordova. to Jaen.
The pasos of the Ermita Sa. Ana are The road to Granada continues
worth notice, especially the silver through splendid mountain scenery and
Saviour, large as life, and a beautiful strong defiles, where Freire, however,
Virgin del la Soledad, ascribed to Juan made no stand. Illora lies to the rt. on a
de Mena. The town is surrounded with hill. Soon the glorious Sierra Nevada is
gardens, which produce excellent fruits seen through an opening in the hills:
and vegetables, from the abundance of and, after passing the Venta del Puerto
water. The wines made in the Pago the Vega expands to the view. It was
dc Rio frio vie with those of Montilla. on the bridge of Pines, which is soon
The geologist should examine an ex crossed, that Columbus was stopped, in
tinct crater at Los Hoyoncs, and the Feb. 1492, b a messenger from Isa
curious cave de Jarcas. The reader of bella, who in ormed him that she would
Don Quixote (ii. 14) may inquire for espouse his scheme of discovery. He
the celebrated Cima, into which the had retired in disgu st at the delays and _
Caballero del Basque leapt. Lucena, disappointments which he had met
Erigena, is another of these large towns with in the court of the cold cautious
which no one visits. Pop. under 17,000. Ferdinand, until his more generous
Like Cabra, it also is placed under two queen,urged by the good prior of Palos,
hills, with the best-built streets on the at last came forward. Thus Columbus
level. The San Mateo is a fine church, was recalled, and she was rewarded
1498, with an extravagant new Sagrario, with a new world. The offer was made
1772: it abounds in fruits of a. rich in the very nick of time, and even then
well-irrigated soil under a glorious he hesitated to replunge into the heart
sun. The apricots are renowned. Here, sickening intrigues of the Spanish
April 21st, 1483, the Conde de Cabra court. Had he proceeded on his
took Boabdil, el Rey cliico de Granada, journey to our Henry VII., that saga
a prisoner. Consult Memorias dc Lucena, cious monarch, ever alive to mari
Cardenas, 4to., Ecija, 1777. Three L. time expeditions, would have listened
on is Ben/unagi, near the Xenil, a town at once to his proposals, and S. America
of bandit and robber ill-fame. Hence, would have been English, Protestant,
by dehesas and despoplados, 4 L. to An free,and rich, instead of Papist,bigoted,
tcqnera (see R. 21). beggarly, and bloodthirsty : on such
Continuing R. 12 and leaving Baena, trifles do the destinies of nations turn.
although it is only 24 m. to Alcalé la. The wooded Soto de Roma, the Duke
R6/ll, it is a 7 to 8 hours’ ride: the old of Wellington's estate, lies to the rt.:
posadc bad and dear 1 the posada S. to the l. is the hill of Elvira (see p. 325),
Anton, on the Alameda, is better spokgn one of the advanced guards of Granada.
258 ROUTES 15, 16.—JAE.\I—F.L smro ROSTRO. Sect. III.
the walk there is delightful, the botany
very rich. Jaen has been compared to
Ronra 15.—Sav1L1.n T0 Gnamma a dragon, a watchful Cerberus. It is a
, av Jana. poor place, amid plenty: pop. 17,000,
Go in the diligence to Andujar (see and principally hardworking agricul
R. 9), and thence by a bad. but car turists. These boors, termed Pastoris,
riageable road to Juen, 6 L. ; or go on are so dull that Jaen is called the Galicia
to Bailen, and then take the down of Andalusia. The fruit-gardens out
diligence to Jaen. 6 L. The Guadal side the town are charming, freshened
quivir is passed by a suspension bridge and fertilised by living waters which
near Mengibar. Both these routes are gush everywhere from the rocks. Jaen
uninteresting, and occasionally robber is, however, very wind-blown in winter.
infested; they are carried over treeless The place surrendered itself to St.
plains, cold and wind-blown in winter, Ferdinand in 1246; as Ibnu—l-ahmar,
calcined and dusty in summer. The “the Red Man,” a native of Arjona,who
road from Jaen to Bailen was com had raised himself from the lowest
menced in 1831. classes, to be its ruler, being at variance
with the Moorish king of Seville, was
unable single-handed to oppose the
Christians, and in self—defence declared
himself their vassal.
Rorrra l6.—ANDUJAR T0 GRANADA. Jaen is a bishopric conjointly with
Baeza. The cathedral is built after the
Mengibar . . . . . 2 style of its metropolitan at Granada
Jaen . . . . . . 4 6
Va. del (Jhaval . . . 4 10 and Malaga. The old mosque was
Campillo de Arenas . . 3 13 pulled down in 1492, and in 1532
Segri . . . . - . 3 I6 Pedro de Valdelvira introduced the
Mitugand-a'_ . . . 2 l8
Granada . . . . . 4 22 Grzeco-Romano style ; the plan is noble
and regular. There are 4 entrances:
Six moi-tally’wearisome L. lead to the W. facade stands between two fine
Jaen; the best inn is that of the dili towers ; the Corinthian interior is
gence, El Cafe‘ Nuevo; the other is Ill all glare, whitewash, and looks like
Santa Rostro, Calls ole Matadero, “ the a Pagan temple. The Sacristm and
Holy Face in Butcher-street.” Sagrar-z'o,are elegant: of the church
Jaen, Jayyan, was a little independ plate, notice the silver Custodia, by
ent kingdom under the Moors, con Juan Ruiz, and the statue of Sun
sisting of 268 square L. The capital Eufrasio ; but the grand relic is La
the Roman Auringis, Giennium— Santa Faz, El Santa SL6d£Zl‘iO, or, as it is
stands like a sentinel at the gorge of commonly called, El Santa Ifost/"0, the
the mountain approach to Granada. Holy Face of our Saviour, as impressed
Gien in Arabic is said to signify ferti on the handkerchief of Santa Veronica,
lity; and the town was also called which this saint is said to have lent to
Jayyenu-l-harir, “Jaen of the Silk.” the suffering Saviour on the road to
Its position is most picturesque, lying Calvary; but the very name, verum
under a castle-crowned hill; the long icon—the true portrait-—denounces the
lines of Moorish walls and towers creep pious ex post facto fraud. Hence some
up the irregular slopes, and the artist say her name was Berenice; be this as
will do well to follow the circuit. The it may, the cambric, like a copper-plate,
jumble of mountains, and those called has given off many impressions for
Jabalcuz, La Pandera, and El del Viento, true believers, by which many souls
almost deprive the city of sun in the have been saved and the true church
wintry days. These are the local ba much enriched, so many proofs, in fact,
rotneters. Ouantlo Jabalcuz time capuz that the existence of “ eleven thousand
y La Ptmdera montera, Llovera aunque virgins,” all Veronicas, may be inferred.
Dios no quiera. Near the Jabulcuz are Mere connoisseurs when they look at
some mineral baths called de Jerez; this fetich fright must regret that no
<
Ronda 4} Granada. ROUTE 16.—JAEN. 259
pope, no Leo X., ever decreed the dalcna, which bursts from a rock as if
multiplication of the divine Saviours of struck by the wand of Moses. There
Raphael. This particular duplicate was is a sort of Museo pro1:incz'al in the ex
brought to Jaen A.D. 44, by San Eu jesuitas,with some hundred bad pictures.
frasio, a disciple of Santiagos: other It was at Jaen that Ferdinand IV.
authors contend that it was San Aten died suddenly, in his 25th year, on Sept.
drio, the bishop of Jaen, who rode 7, 1312, exactly 30 days after he was
the devil pick-o’-back to Rome to summoned to appear before the tribunal
torture the pope that carried back the of God by the two brothers Pedro and
“ Holy Face.” See Feijoo, Cart. Erud. Juan Carvajal, of Martos, when on their
i. 24; iii. 21 ; and Southey’s irreverent way to execution by the king's orders
ballad. It was borne by St. Ferdinand and without sufiicient evidence of their
at the head of his armies all over Jaen, guilt. Hence Ferdinand, who died
and is copied in small silver medallions, on the appointed day, is called El
niellos, in black and white, which are Emplazado, “ the cited.” ~ Mariana
worn by the peasants and robbers as (xv. ii.) compares his death to those
amulets. Jaen, indeed, is a modern of Philippe le Bel, and Clement V. the
Tripoli, and its relic is the Pro ‘nu mu French pope, who were cited by the
Wenlwfdv of the ancients. It is shown to templar, De Molay, to appear before
great personages privately, and to the God within a year and a day to account
public on Good Friday and the Ascen for their perfidy, rapine, and butchery;
sion of the Virgin; the lower classes they both died at the exact period of
rely upon it in all ealamities,yetit could their summons.
not save them from the French, by For history, legends, and antiquities,
whom under Cassagne the town,i1iJuly consult ‘Relacion ole Jaen,’ Gasp. Sal
1808, was so sacked and the women and cedo Aguirre, 8vo., Jaen, 1614; ‘ His
babes so butchered, that the man and his toria Ecclesiastica,’ Francisco de Rus
men must have reasoned like Dante’s de la Puerta, 4to., Jaen, 1634; ‘ Santos
Devil in the ‘ Inferno’ (xxi. 48) : y Santuarios,’ Francisco de Vilches, fol.
“ Qui non ha luogo il Santo Rostro ;” Madrid, 1653; ‘ Historic de ./arm,’ Bar
possibly the Gaul questioned its tolome Ximenez, Paton, l628—the real
genuineness, for certainly Lucca boasts author was one Petrus Ordofiez de Ze
a duplicate, called “ Il Volto Santo.” vallos; ‘ Anales Ecclesiasticos,’ Martin de
Those curious as to their authenticity Ximena Jurado, Madrid, 1654—a very
may consult ‘ Discur-sos de lus Efigies y curious book; ‘Retrato do Jam,’ Josef
verdaderos retratos non mcmufactos del Martinez de Maz-as, 4to., Jaen, 1794.
Santo Rostro,’ Juan de Acuna del The highly picturesque road to Gra
Adarve, Villanueva, fol. 1637 ; also nada was opened in 1828. The first
read the Tradicion, by Bartolomé portion runs through a well-watered
lsquierdo. Now-a-days 111 the mania valley full of figs, apricots, and pome
of civilisation, ancient Jaen itself _ is granates. The gorge then becomes
shaken, and every day the past disap wilder and narrower, and is carried
pears to make place for the modern through the Puerto de Arenas, the sandy
and common-place. If the portal of gate of Granada; formerly carriages
San Miguel by Valdelvira still exist went by the ramblas, river beds, an arch
visit it, and also the plateresque Altar Spanish practice, but rather an incon
Mayor at La Merced ; the fine palace venient one, so a road was engineered at
of the Villar Don Pardos ; the portal of last by one Esteban, and the work is
that of Suarez de la Fuente el Sauce, excellent. Many new posadus have been
and the house dc los Masones. Mean set up on this road at the places where
time bull-fighting flourishes and a new the diligence changes horses. Those
Plaza de Zbros was built in 1847 who are riding may put up either at
for 8000 persons. miserable Campillo, or go on 1% L. to
Visit at all events the Alameda with Campotejar; and if they wish to quit
its alpine view, and walk through the the dusty road, ma turn ofi‘ to the rt.
tortuous old town to the Fuente do Mag at a cortijo, -1 of a .from Campillv f0
260 ROUTES 17, 18, 19.—SEVILLl-3 TO nosna. Sect. III.
Benalua 1 L., thence to Colmara 4 L., military accounts.
It details hard
and so on 2 L. to Granada, a lonely ships endured by his countrymen in
but beautiful ride. these hungry hills, where for one cook,
there were a thousand sharpshooters.
Rocco. afterwards married Madame de
Staél.
Z~
KI.\'ono:vI or GRANADA.
THE kingdom of Granada is the most eastern of “Los Cuatro Remus.” The
length from E. to W.S.W. is about 240 miles; its breadth varies from 30 to
80. The area contains about 9000 square m., and the population reaches a
million. It consists of mountains, plains, “ Vegas” (Bek:£h,Arabice,awatered
valley between hills), and a maritime strip. The Sierra Nevada, with its
“ diadem of snow,” rises nearly 13,000 ft. above the level of the sea, which
washes its S. slopes. Thus, under a latitude of 37°, eternal snow and the
blood-heat of Africa are combined; hence every variety of production, from
the hardiest lichen to the cotton-plant and sugar-cane. This kingdom, being
the last home _0f the Moors, who fled hither from the Christian advance,
became the epitome of their various arts, commerce, and agriculture, of which
none have survived, save the latter; and that, albeit degenerated, still forms
the wealth of the province, which teems with corn and wine, oil, silk, and
fruit. The snowy range is a perpetual Alembic of fertilising water, which is
commensurate with the heats; as the hotter the weather the greater is the
melting. The water is wealth, for the soil of the plains, although light,
becomes highly productive under combined heat and moisture. The hemp is
the finest in the world, and the succession of the crops never ceases. The line
of irrigation, like a Rubicon, divides the desert from a paradise, while all within‘
its influence is green and fruitful, all beyond it is barren and taw"ny——a feature
frequent in this Land of Contrasts. In objects of interest Granada, and there is
attraction in the very name, contains the Alhambra. The alpine range of the
Alpujarras, grand beyond conception, is the Switzerland of Spain ; nor can
anything be more sunny and Mediterranean than the littoral districts. _
This mountain range pregnant with interest to the artist, the botanist,
and geologist, abounds with minerals and beautiful marbles. VVell, there
fore, might thc Moors consider this favoured region to be a portion of heaven
fallen on the earth. Few parts of the Peninsula present a sadder contrast
between the past and the present. Under the Moors Granada was rich, bril
liant, learned, industrious, and gallant, now it is poor, dull, ignorant, indolent,
0 2
292 nonrn 25.—n1sToRY or GRANADA. Sect. III.
and dastardly. The Spaniards, have, indeed, laboured hard to neutralise the
gifts of a lavish nature, and to dwarf this once proud capital down"to a para
lysed provincial town. The Granadan native partakes more of the Mnrcian
than the Andalusian, and has little in common with the Moor, Whose domi
nion, nevertheless, lasted longer here than elsewhere in the Peninsula. The
best time to visit Granada, and make excursions in the mountains, is from
June to October.
_ The name Granada is a corruption from .Karna'tta/1, the ancient fortress of
Phmnician origin. The prefix car occurs in many “ cities” built on an emi
nence, c, g. Carthago, Carteia, Carmona, Cartama. Nuta has been interpreted
by some as “stranger,” the “city of the stranger,” of “pilgrims” (Casiri,
‘_Bib. Esc.’ ii. 247), and by others as the name of a local goddess. The town
Karmittuh, at the Moorish invasion, was given by one of Tarik’s lieutenants to
the “ Jews,” and hence was called “ Karnattah-al-Yahood.” It occupied the
site of the present “ Torres Bermejas,” and ranged above the “ Campo del Prin
cipe,” being quite distinct from Illiberis, with which it has since been con
founded.’ This Illiberis, which signifies in Basque the “ new city ” (Nea
polis, Newtown, Neustadt, Villanueva), was built on the Sierra Elvira.
When the Umeyyah kalifate was broken up, Illiberis was seized by a Berber
chief, whose nephew, Habfis Ibn Makesen, in 1019, removed his residence to
the stronger position of Karnattah, and then as usual destroyed the older town.
“ Granada la Viejrz,” employing the Phcenician and Roman remains as a quarry
for his new buildings. The conquests of Jaime I. in Valencia, and of St.
Ferdinand in Andalucia, ruinous elsewhere to the Moorish cause, created the
prosperity of Granada, which became the asylum of every Moslem refugee
from all other parts of Spain. The remnant of the Moors now fled to the
rocky fastnesses of the Alpujarras before the triumphant cross, as the Goths
had retired to the Asturias before the conquering crescent. Ibnu-l-ahmar,
“ the red man,” the successful upstart ruler of Jaen, and reluctant vassal of
St. Ferdinand, was the real founder of this kingdom. He was a prince eminent
in every respect, and his talents (obt. 1273) were inherited by his two suc
cessors. _ Then was erected the Alhambra, the fortress palace, which Moors
have delighted to adorn, and Spaniards to disfigure. The death of St. Ferdi
nand was the life to the infant monarchy of Granada, for his heir, Alonso,
catching at shadows lost real substances, and wasted the gold of Spain, in his
foolish ambition to become Emperor of Germany. The civil wars which
clouded his later years, and weakened his successors, gave time to the Moorish
kingdom to grow strong, as the Christians turned against each other those
arms which might better have been employed against the common enemy, the
infidel.
Granada, which under the Moors contained half a million souls, was most
flourishing. The date of its ruin is Jan. 2, 1492, when the banner of Castile ‘
first floated on the towers of the Alhambra. Internal dissensions, by which
lbnu-l-ahmar was enabled to found the kingdom, led to its decline and ruin ;
and as Cam prepared the ruin of the Gothic monarchy,and opened the throne
to the Moors, so a Christian woman now occasioned the Moslem downfall.
Her name was Isabel de Solis, on whom Martinez de la Rosa wrote a poor
novel. She was the daughter of the governor of Martos, and, being taken pri
soner by the Moors, became the favourite wife of Abii-l-hasan, king of
Granada. Her Moorish appellation is Zoraya, “Morning Star,” in allusion
to her surpassing beauty, on account of which ’Ayeshah, another wife and
cousin of Abii-l-hasan, became jealous of her rival, and the court was divided
into two parties. The Zegris (Thegrim, the people who came from T/zegr or
Arragon) espoused her faction, and the Abcncerrages, the Beni Cerraj (the
children of the saddle, or palace), that of Zorayah. In June, 1482, Abxi-Abdillah,
son of ’Ayeshah, 19th king, dethroned his father. His name was corrupted
_~
~——
Ronda gi" Granada. aourr: 25.—rm: ALHAMBRA. 299
ish mirador, where marble and gilding and in this rare instance he departed
yet linger amid abominations inde from “ salutary rigour,” and was guilty
scribable. Charles IV. next gave this of clemency. To the Alhambra no
i petty appointment to a Catalan named mercy was shown. He first proceeded
Don Luis Bucarelli, who had been to convert it into a place d’urmes,
wounded in a battle with the French, for which purpose countless houses
and was half-witted and bedridden. were demolished; Moorish mosque
He had 5 daughters, who married and Christian churches alike turned
paupers of other parts of the Alhambra, into magazines, and convents into
and were all quartered in it ; they laid barracks; the Moorish pavement of
their hands on everything that could blue and white in the Court of
be moved or sold. In vain were repre Lions was torn up to make a garden
sentations made by foreigners to the there, like that of a badaud guinguette
wittol Charles IV. ; he desired “ that at Paris. The shrubs blocked up size
the old man should not be worried ;” and space, and concealed beauties of
so plunder thus authorized did its every kind, while their roots injured
worst during the remainder of Buca the intricate vein-work of pipes by
relli’s life. He was succeeded by Don which the fountains played, and their
Lorenzo Velasco y Navara, who, by watering destroyed the rooms below.
endeavouring to correct some abuses, Not contented with this, on evacuating
became unpopular with the contador or the Alhambra, Sept. 17, 1812, the
the treasurer,who, on Godoy’s downfall, French mined the towers and blew up
managed to effect his dismissal on the 8 in number, many of which were
plea of his being a protege of the ex models of Moorish art; they intended
minister. The hereditary ofiice of to have destroyed them all at one fell
contador had been purchased by the swoop as their parting legacy, but their
Prado family of Philip V., and was agent, Don Antonio Farses, an Afrun
held by one Don Jose Prado, 40 years, cesado, took fright, and ran away after
he being the worst holder ever known his protectors. They retreated at 9 in
except his son Antonio. Albeit mal the morning, and Farses had, like an
practices and petty larcenies are venial unpunctual Spaniard, only commenced
sins in most Spanish “ unjust stewards,” the blowing up at ll ; the fusees were
yet such were the mortal offences of the put out by an invalid soldier named
son, that he was actually turned out of José Garcia. Let these deeds be held
the ofiice. This family of caterpillars in everlasting remembrance.
had pretty well eaten up the patrimony Montilla now returned; but no sooner
of the Alhambra, while the remaining had Ferdinand VII. reached Madrid
sums destined for repairs, &c., were than he left his post,like most Spaniards,
divided, as usual, by the other autho to job for a better place. Then one Villa
rities. About l808 Don Ignacio Mon Ecusa was directed to collect all that the
tilla was appointed governor. His French had not taken away, for they
wife kept her donkey in the beautiful had made the Alhambra their receiv
chapel, and made the Patio de Ia Mez ing.-house. He was assisted in his
quita a pen for her sheep. But Ocafia commission by Don José Prado, the
soon brought in the wolf, and Sebastiani contudor, and Antonio Maria Prieto y
arrived in January, 1810. Montilla, Venencio, the “ escribano .~” verbum
for the sole crime of not presenting sat. They gutted the Alhambra, they
himself to this potentate, was im tore off door-locks and bolts, took out
prisoned in the Comares tower, and even panesof glass, and sold everything
only saved from instant execution by for themselves, and then, like good
some Poles who were quartered in the patriots, reported that the invaders had
Alhambra. His friends then got “ La left nothing. The Court of Lions was
Punera,” at whose house Sebastiani was now impassable from ruin ; some of the
lodging, to intercede. The lady was animals were broken and thrown on
rich andbeautiful, so Mammon allied the ground. Then stepped in the
to Venus subdued the Gener-al’s heart, second founder of the Alhambra--not’
300 ROUTE 25.——GRANADA. Sect. III.
a commissioner of taste—“rien, pas large portion of the Alhambra into
meme académicien”~—but an humble stores for the salt-fish of his scoundrel
female peasant, Francisca de Molina, charge; at this vandal work we be
whom Montilla had appointed portress. held his worthy galériens working in
She is the Dona or Tia Antonia of chains for Weeks, in 1831, tearing down
Washington Irving, and, with her and casting over the battlements the
niece Dolores and Mateo Ximencz, will Moorish Iicnzos and azulejos, quaeque
live immortalized by his ingenious pen. ipse miserrima vidi. In March of
As we lived with these ladies 2 sum that fatal year, as if destruction were
mers we can vouch historically that its rule, a large portion of the cur
the Tia Frasquita was cross and tain or outer wall, hanging over the
erabbed, Dolores ill-favoured and Darro, fell in, which has since been
mercenary, and Mateo a chattering rebuilt. In that summer, however,
Mr. Addington, the British ambassador,
blockhead ; out of such worthies genius
coming down from Madrid to visit our
has made heroes and heroines, for-the
power of romance can gild the basesthumble selves then living in the Al
metals. Montilla had granted to the hambra, induced the authorities to
Tia the use of the Adarves and the remove a powder-magazine, which, as
garden, and she made money by show it had no conductor, not even a holy
ing the place and dressing picnic din week palm-branch, was liable, during
ners, until some ultra-bacchic festi any lightning storm, to vie with Van
vities caused that permission to be dals, foreign and domestic. Thus, as
withdrawn. an accident, the moving power of things
No sooner were the French troops of Spain, prevented the complete de
ejected from the Alhambra, by the re struction of the Alhambra towers by
coil of the Duke’s victory at Sala the French, the accidental visit of an
manca, than this Tia went to work to Englishman may have preserved the
repair their ravages. Labor ipse volup remains of what Gaul and chance had
tas. She set the Lions on their legs, and spared.
cleared away the rubbish. At length When Ferdinand VII. died, and civil
the indignant remarks of foreign tra wars broke out, the Alhambra, in com
vellers shamed the authorities, who mon with the Eseorial Aranjuez, and
commenced some trifling restorations ; everything royal, was left to go to ruin.
but in 1821 an earthquake shattered In 1837 the governor cut up the Moor
the ancient pile, and the times were ish doors of the Sala de los Abencerrages,
out of joint, and the Constitucion in and permitted another man bf taste to
force; then Montilla, being a royalist, “ repair and beautify” la Casa Sanchez.
and a gentleman by birth, was perse This once, when inhabited by honest
cuted by the patriots, by whom one Sanchez, of whom Panza was the type,
-Juan Camerara was named governor, was one of the most picturesque and
and as the city Junta seized for them most Moorish of dwellin gs. During the
selves the scanty funds of the real panic occasioned by the incursion of
palzimnnio, the Alhambra again has the Carlists under Gomez, a good deal
tened to decay. In 1823, when Fer more mischief was done in what was
dinand VII. was delivered, Montilla called putting the place in a state of
returned ; but he resigned in 1827, and defence : at length, in 1842, Argiielles,
was succeeded by a Col. Francisco la tutor to the Queen, destined a small
Serna, whose great object was to find sum from the privy purse for absolute
work for galley-slaves : in an evil hour
repairs, which have been tolerably
he selected the Alhambra for their oc done, and are continued slowly at
cupation. His first step was to try to present.
expel the Tia Frasquita, who, having The first ‘object of every English
lived 60 years in the palace, was not traveller is the Alhambra; ascend
only Lioniser, but its Lioness, Queen, therefore the Oalle de los Gomeles, and,
and Cook, being nick-named La Reyna passing under the gate ole las Granadas,
Coquina. La Serna next converted a enter the magical jurisdiction of this
Ronda 6‘ Granada. ROUTE 25.—TnE ALHAMBRA. 301
fairy palace. 3 paths diverge; that here being rare, are as much admired
to the rt. leads to the Torres ])’ar1:wjus, as palms would be with us; on reaching
the “ red towers,” a sort of outwork, the height is a Semi-circular barbican,
which deserves a subsequent visit. and below it a fountain, wrought in
This, the most ancient portion of Gra the coarse stone of Elvira, in the Ber
nada, existed when Illiberis was the ruguete style. It was erected by the
chief town, and is mentioned as “ Kal Alcaide Mendoza, whose arms, with
’at A1-hamra,” “ the red castle,” by an those of Charles V., are sculptured on
Arabian poet, so early as A.D. 864. It it. The river-gods represent the Genil,
was afterwards called Medinah Al Darro, &c. : this monument has re
hamra, “ the red city” (Casiri, ‘ Bib. cently been barbarously repaired and
Es.’ ii. 249). Pedro de Alcala, in his “ restored.”
Arabo-Hispano dictionary of the time Granada is a city of fountains, which,
of the conquest, translates Bermeja by a luxury with us, is a necessity here.
Amhar (hamm in the feminine), a The Darro and Xenil are drawn ofl‘ in
name well applicable to the red ferru canals from high up near their sources,
ginous concrete tapia of which it is and thus the waters retain the original
built. It may have existed even be elevation above the town; columns are
fore the Romans; indeed, some anti accordingly thrown up from fountains
quarians, who can see far into a mile in great body and height.
stone, pretend to recognize Phoenician A sharp turn conducts to the grand
work. I-labus Ibn Makesen, when he entrance, La Torre de Justicia, the
removed from Illiberis in 1019, erected
“ Porch," the “ gate of judgment,” the
above this outwork the Kassabah Al “ Sublime Porte,” at which the king or
hamra, “ the enclosure of the red,” the
his kaid dispensed judgment, as in the
present Alcazaba. This lbnu-l-ahmar East (Deut. xvi. 18; 1 Kings viii. 7),
selected for his residence, and built after an ancient fashion, which at least
the Kasru-1-hamra, the “ Alcazar, or was more rapid and cheap, and possibly
palace, of or in the red enclosure.” The quite as equitable, as any modern Court
long lines of walls and towers crown of Chancery, either below the hill or
the hill, and follow the curves and elsewhere. This gate was erected in
dips of the ground, just as an artist 1308 by Yusuf I., Abfi-1-hajstj, a great
would have placed them: there is no decorator of the Alhambra. The
attempt at symmetry or anything Moors called it Babu-sh-shari’ah, the
straight; hence, as at _Jaen, Xativa, “ gate of the law.” The inscription
&c., the elegance and plcturesqueness over the inner doorway records its
of these Oriental fortifications; they elevation and- the name of the founder.
are the antitheses of the common It ends, “ May the Almighty make
place line and rule places of Vauban, this [gate] a protecting bulwark, and
write down its [erection] among the
which are as worthless to the artist as
admirable to the engineer. imperishable actions of the jus ." The
The Moorish towers rise like reddishMoorish diapery has been broken, to
cork models out of a girdle of trees, make a niche for apoor wooden image
which contrasts with the stony sierras of the Virgin.
above. The centrewalk leadstothe pub Over the outer horse—shoe arch is
lic gardens, that to the 1. to the Alham seen an open hand, which some con
bra ; the wooded slopes are kept green sider an emblem of hospitality and
by watercourses, and tenanted by night generosity, the redeeming qualities of
ingales ; although everythinglooks the the Oriental. Others think it a type
work of nature, it is the creation of of the 5 principal commandments of
man, as the Moor changed the barren the creed of lslam—“ To keep the fast
rock into an Eden; had the French of Ramadan, pilgrimage to Mecca,
intentions succeeded, all would have almsgiving, ablution, and war against
relapsed into barrenness, from their the infidel.” Others refer it to the
destruction of the supply of water : the Hebrew Jud/L, the hand of God, the
elm-trees came from England, and Oriental symbol of power and provi
302 _ ROUTE 25.—GRANADA. Sect. III.
dence. But the true meaning of it is its own governor. The ofiice was one
a talisman over the portal against the of high honour, but is now altogether
much dreaded “ Evil Eye,” at which second rate. The Virgin and Child,
Orientals and Spaniards have always in the Retablo, was painted by Saint
and do still tremble. The Morisco Luke, to which, if any doubted, Mateo
women wore small hands of gold and Ximenez would swear. In our time no
silver round their necks, like the Nea donkeyswere allowedto go through this
politans, and a substitute for the classi passage, because some had grossly mis
cal phallic symbol of defiance. Charles_ behaved themselves before the sacred
V., by a Pragmatica in 1525, forbad painting. Hence a narrow wa1l-en
this usage. In the Sula de los Emba closed lane leads to the open place,
jadores is an inscription to the same Plaza de los Algi/ms, under which are
purport : “ The best praise be given to the Moorish “ cisterns,” which are
God I I will remove all the effects of filled by the Darro; they are cleaned
an evil eye upon our master Yusuf,” &c. in January, and then can be visited.
Over the inner arch is a sculptured In summer an awning is erected over
key, in which some see the Oriental a well, whence a supply of cool water
symbol of power (Isa. xxii. 22), and is sold to those who come up from
others the “ key of David ” (Rev. iii. Granada with donkeys. This Plaza
7). Others, however, hold that it is divides the palace from the Alcazabu
allusive to the “ power of the keys,” Kassribah, the citadel. The latter was
by which the true prophet opened the formerly entered by the Torre del Ho
gates of heaven and hell. Then it is menage, of “ Homage,” which rises at
said to be simply a badge of honour, the end of the Pelota, or fives-court,
like the keysworn by gentlemen of bed whose wall much disfigures the Plaza.
chambers and titled menials; the key, Observe a Roman altar from Illiberis,
however, was a symbolic sign among imbedded by the Moors in this tower ;
the Sufis, denoting knowledge—“ the it is inscribed by the grateful Valerius
key by which God opens the heart of to his “most indulgent wife,” Cor
believers.” It occurs over many An nelia.
dalucian castles, especially those built The present entrance to the 1. was
after the arrival of the Almohades, made by the French. The Alcazaba is
a word corrupted from Al Mm/.~a'hedum, now used as a prison for galley-slaves.
or Unitarians, a domineering religious The once most curious Moorish ar
sect, who bore this particular badge on moury was sold by its governor, Bu
their banners. There is an idle tale, carelli, _to defray the cost of a bull
how the Moors boasted that this gate fight. Ascend the Torre de la Vela .
neverwould be opened to the Christians by its narrow staircase. Here, as
until the hand took the key. an inscription records, the Christian
The entrance is carried through a flag was first hoisted by the Cardinal
double gate : “ David sat between the Mendoza and his brother. The pano
two gates ” (2 Sam. xviii. 24). Here rama is glorious. Below lies Granada,
is a guard-room ; and the intricate tor belted with plantations; beyond ex
tuous passages are contrived so as to pands the Vega, about 30 m. in length
obstruct an entering enemy. Now, in by 25 in width, 70 in circumference,
stead of the well-appointed Mameluke and guarded like an Eden by a wall of
and glittering Moor, or iron-clad cham mountains. The basin was once a lake,
pion of Tendilla, a few gaunt, bandit through which the Xenil burst a way
looking invalids are huddled together. at Loja. The Vega is studded with
Passing onwards, near a paltry altar villas and villages; every field has its
screen, is a Gothic inscription, coeval battle, every rivulet its ballad. It is a
with the conquest, recording that scene for painters to sketch, and for
event, and the appointment of Inigo poets to describe. To the 1. rise the
Lopez de Mendoza as alcaide. The snowy Alpujarras, then the distant
jurisdiction of the Alhambra is sepa Sierra of Alhama, then the gorge of
rate from that of Granada, and has Loja in the distance, then the round
U
Ronda & Granada. nourn 25.—rnn ALHAMBRA. 308
mountain of Parapanda, which is the In a small court of the Alcazaba is
barometer of the Vega, as Soracte was a marble sarco hagus or tank, with
to Horace; for when its head is bon basso-relievos o animals; among them
netted with mists, so surely does rain the “ deer-slaying lion,” which occurs
fall: “ Cwmdo Parapanda se pone la so often in Greek art. It is difiicult
montera, Llzwve aunque Dios no lo qui to say whether this rude sculpture be
siera.” Nearer Granada is the Sierra antique or Moorish. An Arabic in
de Elvira, the site of old Illiberis, and scription is carried round the border,
below the dark woods of the Duke of but this_may be later than the carving ;
Wellington’s Soto de Roma. To the rt. at all events, stays are animals con
‘is the rocky defile of Moclin, and the nected by Orientals with the fountain,
distant chains of Jaen. “ as the hart panteth for the water
The Torre dc la Vela is so called, br0oks:” and the Spanish Moors,
because on this “ watch-tower” hangs among other departures from strict
a silver-tongued bell, which, struck Moslem rules, did not reject either
by the warder at certain times, is the paintings or carvings of living objects.
primitive clock that gives notice to Returning to the Plaza de los AI
irrigators below. It is heard on a gibes, is an isolated Moorish tower
still night even at Loja, 30 m. off, La Torre del Vino, built in 1345 by
and tender and touching are the feel Yu'suf I. Observe the elegant Moor
ings which the silver sound awakens. ish arch, and the Azultjos, with
This bell is also rung every January 2, which Spanish filth and neglect con
the anniversary of the surrender of trast. This oratory was first turned
Granada; on that day the Alhambra into a temple of Bacchus when the
is visited by crowds of peasantry. Few Alhambra had a privilege of intro
maidens pass by without striking the ducing wine; now it is sacred to
bell, which ensures a husband, and Cloacina Granadina. The large palace
a good one in proportion as the noise opposite was begun by Charles V.,
made, which it need not be said is con and, symbol of himself and Spain,
tinuous and considerable. The féte is great in conception and impotent in
altogether most national and pictur conclusion, is unfinished and unroofed ;
esque. Ascend this torre just before yet to raise this edifice, which he could
the sun sets, to see what is his blaze not complete, Charles destroyed large
of glory in these southern latitudes, portions ofwhat the Moors had finished.
when he incarnadines heaven and This palace is, however, what the
earth. Then, as darkness comes on, Spaniards admire, and to this, their
the long lines of burning weeds and building, and not to the Alhambra, that
stubble in the Vega run and sparkle, of the Moors, do they direct the stran
crackling like the battle flashes of in ger’s attention. The foundations were
fantry; and, in the old warder’s re laid with an evil omen, and in the
mark, recall the last campaigns of the tears of a pillaged people. The funds
Moor and Christian. were extorted from the Moriscos to buy
The under line of bastions, or off the dreaded inquisition, which,
adarves, which extend to the Gate of nevertheless, was let loose on them.
Justice, were laid out by Charles V. This true Cluiteau en Espagne was
in hanging gardens with fountains, begun in 1526, progressed slowly until
busts, and cinque—cento sculpture. The 1633. and was then abandoned. It
cypresses seen everywhere from afar, consists of a square of 220 ft., with
are the sole constant mourners of the 3 elaborate facades, and was one of the
Moor. The vines, Parrales,are said to first buildings erected in Spain in the
be of the time of Boabdil. Their Grace-Romano Bramante style. The
boa-constrictor-like stems wind round ornaments of the grand portal and
the square pilasters. The outer bas windows, ascribed to Berruguete, are
tions, below the Alcazaba, were de by Pedro Machuca. As works of art,
stroyed by the French, and are now a the basso-relievos are much overrated;
weedovergrown ruin. and such is the poverty. of invention,
304 noura 25.—GRANADA. Sect. III.
that the same compositions are simply stranger into an almost paradise. In
reversed. The creamy pudding-stone commonwith other Moorish command
is called .AZlIL(,’TLdl‘(ld0, and comes from ing Alcazares, it is built on the crest
the quarries of El Turro. The interior of a hill, and of tapiu. The picturesque
is cut up with a disproportioned Doric walls and towers, which fringe the
and Ionic circular patio, which, how heights, follow the natural lines of the
ever well contrived, if the emperor uneven ground. This fortress-palace,
meant to use it as an arena for bull the dwelling of an Oriental, was in
fights, must destroy the propgrtions of tended to awe the city below with the
all rooms near it. The court, how forbidding exterior of power, to keep
ever, has generally been made a work out heat, enemies foreign and domestic,
ing-place or galley-slaves. There was and to keep in women. The plain
a notion of offering this huge shell to aspect was adopted to avert the effects
the Duke of Wellington, with hopes of the evil eye, the bugbcar ofOrientals,
that he would finish it with English which scowls on the over prosperous,
gold; but it ended in nothing. There and dogs their felicity. The interior vo
was some talk also of Queen Christina luptuousness and splendour was masked
taking it in hand, but dc lo dic/zo al like the glittering spar is in a coarse
hecho, ca gran trccho. pebble.
Before enterin the Moorish palace The internal arrangements were
look around at this Plaza, where every purely Oriental, with its colonnaded
thing is typical of the past and pre walks, the fountains, baths, the diaper
sent. In front the massy towers of stucco Tarlzish, Azulejo dado, above
the Moors frown over ruins and neglect. which hung the rich Artesonado roof,
The uneven weed-encumbered court is gilded and starred like a heaven. “ The
disfigured by invalids, beggars,and con architecture of the Arabs,” says Owen
victs, emblems of Spanish weakness Jones, “is essentially religious, and
and poverty. The clanking of the cri the offspring of the Koran, as Gothic
minal’s chain has replaced the cry of architecture is of the Bible. The pro
the Mueddin and the Algara of the hibition to represent animal life caused
Moorish knight. The unfinished pa them to seek for other means of deco
lace of the Austrian which insults theration—inscriptions from the Koran,
half-destroyed abode of the Western interwoven with geometrical orna
Kalif—is a thing of Spain, of to-day, ments and flowers, not drawn de
where old systems are overturned by cidedly from nature, but translated
rash innovators, who have been unable through the loom; for it would seem
to raise any new ones in their place. that the Arabs, in changing their
The present entrance to la real casa wandering fora settled life, in striking
Arabs is of Spanish construction, and the tent to plant it in a form more
lies in an obscure corner; for Charles solid, had transferred the luxurious
V., adding insult to injury, did not shawls and hangings of Cashmere,
even set his new building in a parallel which had adorned their former dwell
line with the older one, and destroyed ins, to their new, changing the tent
altogether the previous and noble pole for a marble column, and the
facade which opened to the south. silken tissue for gilded plaster ;” and
Before entering it may be as well to certainly he might have added that
say a word on the erection of this the palm-tree was the type of the
edifice, the Arabic inscriptions, colours, columns which they used in their
ceilings, and architectural peculiarities: patios. With regard to the Arabic
its decay has already been recorded. inscriptions, these epi_r/rammata are
The severe, simple, almost forbid written in an ornate character, and are
ding exterior of the Alhambra, gives decorations of themselves; their usage
no promise of theAladdin gorgeousness was borrowed from the phylacteries,
which once shone within, when the the preservative devices of the Jews.
opening of a single door, as if by-the Gayangos observes of their import,
tap of a fairy’s wand, admitted the that “ They are of three sorts :-—A_z/zit,
Ronda & Granada. noon: 25.—THE ALHAMBRA. S05
that is verses from the Koran; Asja‘, for which the Moors had a “ highly
that is, pious sentences not taken from organised natural instinct.” The se
the Koran ; and As/idr, that is, poems condary colours, purple, green, and
in praise of the builders or owners, of orange, only occur in the dados of Azu
the palace.” Like most Oriental lq'o,which,being nearer the eye, formed
poetry, the import is altogether fiat a point of repose from the more brilliant
and insipid to European readers; the colouring above; some may now seem
charm appears to consist rather in green, but this is the change eifected
sounds and words than in meaning; by time on the original metallic blue.
now both are lost to eyes that under The Catholic kings used both green
stand not. But well might the poet and purple, and their work can easily
Iman Ibn Nasr inscribe one wall thus :be discovered by the coarseness of exc
cutiou and the want of the harmonious
“ Look attentively at my elegance, thou
wilt reap the benefit of a commentary |balance of colours, which the Moors
on decoration,” and certainly surface , understood so much better. Under the
ornamentation and gorgeous fanciful ' Moors, according to Owen Jones, the
elegance, were never carried to higher I inarblc pillars were gilt, but the Span
5Jf1I}‘1l'90l%)0I1 than on the walls of the grldis _foiitili1d_it casiersto sgrtalpe off 2:
am ra. in ei repair , an us exp
Theinscriptionsbelonging to the first the white stone, than to regild them.
two classes are generally written in ‘ The elegant palm-like pillars deserve
Cufic, the character of the city El ‘notice, and especially the variety of
Koofeh, founded about the 17th year of their ca_pitals_; these are, in all cases,
the Hegira. The square form lends ' carved in white marble; only the em
itself to geometrical patterns; indeed, Q bellishments on the mouldings, which
it is as diflicult to distinguish the lare now indicated by faint lines, are
letters from the diagrams, as it is the painted, the ground being blue, and
modern Arabic character from the , the ornament the white surface of the
scrolly ornaments. The Cufic letters marble; in some cases this order is
are oftenappearance
uniform so arranged aswa
both to ‘s;
present a
“ thus lreversed: few perfect,
i their colouring of the although
capitals retain
traces
the inscription can be read rom the r. i of it appear in almost all; the ground
to the 1., or from the l. to the r., and is frequently red, with blue leaves on
upwards or downwards. The long " the upper surfaces; all the bands and
poems are all written in the African inscriptionswere in gold; the common
hand, with such care that no letter is inscriptions are, “ And there is no
ever wanting in its diacritic points,1 conqueror but God ;” and “ Blessing.”
and the vowels and grammatical ‘ The dados of Azulejo and “ frets” de
signs are likewise inserted.” The , serve careful notice. Intricate as these
modern Arabic character, the Nesk/ii‘ interlacings appear, they are formed
or more cursive, was adopted about on the simplest rules: “ If a series of
the year 950, but the old Cufic one lines,” says Owen Jones, “be drawn
continued to be used in inscriptions equidistant and parallel to each other,
in conjunction with it down to 1508. crossed by a similar series at right
These records, so speaking to the angles so as to form squares, and the
Moor, are full of meaning; telling at spaces thus given set ofl’ diagonally, in
every turn the greatness, goodness, and tersecting each alternate square, every
unity of the Godhead; they are now possible combination may be obtained;
lost on the “inattentive” stranger, or an equal variety will result by
who can neither read nor interpret the drawing equidistant lines diagonally
writings on the wall. and setting otf the spaces at each
The colours employed by the Moors square at right angles.” In the Azu
were, in all cases, the primary—blue, lt:iO pillars the component parts are
red, and yellow (gold) ; blues predomi the same, the infinite variety of pattern
nating to correct the reds and yellows, being obtained by changing the colours
and thus preserve the harmony ofcolour and juxtaposition of the separate parts.
306 noon: 25.—-omxaoa. Sect. III.
Where these Azulejo tiles are used as ornate and minute, and has neither
pavements, if inscribed they have been the grand size of the Zflgyptian, the
most likely placed there by the Spa exquisite proportion of the Greek and
niards, for the Mohamedans are most Roman, or the solemnity of the Gothic.
careful even of treading on any acci The mode of hanging the doors is
dental scrap of paper, for fear it should that used by the ancients in their
contain the revered name of Allah. temples, and continued in the East
Many of the marble pavements in the to this day; they move on pivots,
Alhambra clearly were not the original forming part of the framing, which are
ones, as they are placed above the an let intoa socket in a marble slab below,
cient level, and conceal portions of the and above into the soflit of the beam ;
Mosaic dado. a bolt usually secures, at the same time,
The honeycomb stalactical pendent both the flaps of the folding-doors and
ives are all constructed on mathema the wicket.
tical principles; they are composed of Entering by the obscure portal of
numerous prisms, united by their con Spanish construction, to the l. is the
tiguous lateral surfaces, consisting of quarter allotted to the governor’s resi
seven different forms proceeding from dence. The suite of rooms is noble,
three primary figures on plain; these but every beauteous vestige of the
are the right-angled triangle, the rec Moor has been swept away. The first
tangle, the isosceles triangle. The va patio has various names; it is called
rious component parts are capable of de la Alberca and de la Bar-cu—of the
an infinite variety of combination, as “Fish-pond,” of the “Bark,” these
infinite as the melodies which may be are corruptions of the true Moorish
produced from the seven notes of the name “Berkalz,” “the Blessing,” which
musical scale. The conical ceilings in occurs all over it in the Arabic inscrip
the Alhambra attest the wonderful tions. “Beerkeh,” in Arabic, also sig
power and efiect obtained by the repe nifies a tank, unde Albcrca. The side
tition of the most simple elements; walls are planted with myrtles, whence
nearly 5000 pieces enter into the con it is called de los Arm;/anes, Arrayhan,
struction of the ceiling of Las dos Her Arabicé “a myrtle." It is about 150
manas ; and although they are simply feet long by S0 wide.
of plaster, strengthened here and To the rt. is an elegant double cor
there with pieces of reed, they are ridor, the upper portion, recently re
in most perfect preservation: but the paired, being the only specimen of its
carpentry of the Phmnicians passed kind in the Alhambra. Here'¢was the
down to the Moor. These houses, grand entrance of the Moors, which,
“ceiled with cedar and painted with with the whole winter quarter, was
Vermilion ” (Jer. xxii. 14), are exactly pulled down by Charles V., who built
those of the ancient Egyptians (Wilk. up his palace against it. The under
ii. 125). saloon was converted by the French
The A1-tesmzado ceilings, the shutter into an oil- magazine; the tank,'Es
and door marqueterie works, resemble tunque, in the centre of the court, was
those in the Alcazar of Seville. The formerly enclosed by a Moorish balus
patterns, although apparently intricate, trade, which was pulled down and sold
are all reducible to the simplest geo in the time of Bucarelli. The marble
metrical rules, and the same principle pavement came from Macacl, and is
applies equally to the Lienzos and Azu now much broken up, as the French
Iejos. A common principle of surface here piled up their firewood for their
ornamentation pervades, as the mos camp kettles.
lcm prohibition of introducing living The saloons to the rt. of this patio,
forms, narrowed and fixed the decora were once most gorgeous; they be
tive scope, and more care was taken longed to the monarch’s wife, and
in the contrast of colour and variety hence are still called el cuarto de'Ia
of lines. The Arabian style certainly Sultdna. These were gutted in 1831
consists of the multiplication of the by the governor La Serna, who con
Ronda {V Granada. nours 25.——ran ALHAMBRA. 307
verbed them into store-rooms for the let the masses appear to hang in air
salt-fish of his presidarios. On the floating like summer clouds. Observe
opposite side is a small room fitted up the divans or alcoves at each end of this
by Ferdinand the Catholic, as the anteroom, and especially, near that to
ceiling shows, for the archives, which, the rt., the Azulejo pillars and portions
contained in iron trunks, have never of the original colours with which the
been properly examined. In 1723 the stucco Turkish was decorated. Observe,
contador Manuel Nufiez dc Prado in this anteroom, the ceiling—a wag
printed some of them; but as he was gon-headed dome of wood, of most
very ignorant and made the selection elaborate patterns, and the honeycomb
himself, garbling and falsifying the stalactical pendentives.
pages, the extracts only related to saints, Before entering the Hall of Ambas
relics, and nonsense, and were so absurd sadors, pass by a staircase to the I.,
that he was advised to buy up the copies, which leads up to the governor’s
which, consequently, are very rare. A dwelling, to the Mczquita, once the
new compilation was then made by Luis mosque of the palace. The patio,
Francisco Viano, a canon of the Sacro a picture, was made a shcep~pen by
Monte, who employed Echevarria as Montilla’s wife, and since a poultry
his amanuensis. Just when they were yard: one facade retains its original
printed Prado died, and with him his Moorish embroidery, and the beams
project, as the attorney Venencio then of the roof are the finest specimens in
sold the sheets for waste paper. This the Alhambra. The upper part of the
little room contains or contained a fine cornice above the stalactites is wood,
Moorish marble table, and a splendid and from the form of the barge-board
earthenware vase, enamelled in blue, may be collected the shape of the
white, and gold; the companion was original tiles which rested on it. The
broken in the time of Montilla, who inscriptions between the rafters are
used the fragments as flower-pots, until “Al-Mann,” “ The Grace” of God;
a French lady carried them away. and on the moulding underneath,
There is some difiiculty in getting into “ And there is no conqueror but God,”
this room. The governor, the contador, alternately with “ God is our refuge
and the escribano, each have a key of in every trouble.” A barbarous Spa
three locks, and these worthies, like nish gallery destroys one sidc: observe
Macbeth’s witches, must be well paid the two pillars of the vestibule and
before they will meet~~“ nuestro ul their unique capitals. The door of
calde, nunca da paso de valde.” The the mosque was stripped of its bronze
Azulqjo dado which ran round this facings by the Bucarellis, who sold
patio was stripped ofi‘ by Bucarelli’s the copper: afragrnent only remains,
daughters and sold. Near the archives which was out of the reach of these
is the Moorish door which ledto the harpies.
mosque. Proceeding to the Mezquita, the
Advancing to the great tower of roof was re-painted by Ferdinand and
Comares, observe the elegant ante Isabella. Near the entrance on the rt.
gallery; the slim columns would ap is the exquisite niche, the Milzrab or
pear unequal to the superincumbent sanctuary, in which the Koran was
weight were not the spandrels lightened deposited. The inscription at the
by perforated ornaments, by which springing of the arch is “ And be not
also a cool current of air is admitted. one of the negligent.” Turning to the
Lightuess was the aim of Moorish archi l. is the mosque, which Charles V.
tects,-as massiveness was of the ancient converted into a chapel, thus himself
Egyptians. The real supports were doing here what he condemned in
concealed, and purposely kept unex others at Cordova (p. 230). The in
pressed, so that the apparent supports, congruous additions mar this noble
thin pillars, and gossamer perforated saloon. A heavy ill-contrived altar is
fabric, seemed fairy work: the object placed in the middle, while all around
was to contradict the idea of weight, and figure dolphins, pagan mottos, and
308 ROUTE 2-5.—-GRAXADA. Sect. III.
cinque-cento ornaments, with the arms eminence be upheld by the Master of
of the Mendozas, the hereditary al divine glory and the celestial throne !”
caides. A raised gallery or pew, And splendid indeed must all have
partly gilt and partly unfinished, re been under the Moor, and in perfect
calls the “ beautifying and repairing ” contrast with the present Spanish abu
of some bungling churchwarden. The miuation of desolation. The existing
floor of the mosque has been lowered ceiling, an artesonado dome of wood,
about 2 feet, probably with a view to ornamented by ribs intersecting each
obtain height for the pew gallery. other in various patterns, with orna
Reasccnding to the anteroom of the ments in gold,paintedon groundsofblue
Salrr (lc los Ambajadores, on each side and red in the interstices, is composed of
at the entrance are recesses into which, the Alerce, and darkened by time; the
according to some, the slippers were original ceiling was of stucco, but fell
placed—an Oriental and Roman custom down with an arch which once was
(Exod. iii. 5; Mart. iii. 50, 3). The carried across the hall. The enor
Asiatic, being the aiitipodes of the Eu mous thickness of the walls may be
ropean, takes off his shoes, not his hat, estimated by the windows, which are
as a mark of respect: others contend, so deeply recessed as to look like
and perhaps rightly, that these niches cabinets, or the lateral chapels of a.
were meant to contain alcoruzas, or cathedral. The views from them are
porous drinking vessels filled with cool enchanting. “ Ill-fated the man who
water, the luxury of the East; and this lost all this,” said Charles V. when
notion is borne out by the import of he looked out. The saloon has been
some of the inscriptions round these much injured by earthquakes and the
heavy wooden shutters introduced by
apertures. e. g., “ Ifany oneapproach me
complaining of thirst, he will receive this Charles. Below this hall are
cool and Ii/npifl water, sweet without ad some vaulted rooms, where some se
mixture.” This reception- room of cond-nate marble statues, probably by
state occupies the whole interior of the Pedro Machuea, 2 nymphs and a Ju
Coinares tower, which is a square of piter and Leda, are deposited, being
37 ft., by 75 ft. high to the centre of considered too nude for Spanish pru
the dome: observe the Azulejos, the dery. Observe the infinity of sub
Turkish, and the site of the royal tei‘raneous intercommunications, m0st_
throne, which was placed opposite the of which have been blocked up by the
entrance. The rt. inscription runs, Spaniards: these were the escapes of
“ From me, this throne, thou art wel the Sultan in times of outbreak. Here
comed morning and evening by the also were the state prisons, and from
tongues of Blessing—Berkah—pros the window looking down on the
perity, happiness, and friendship ; that Darro it is said that ’Ayesliah, fearful
is the elevated dome, and we, the se of her rival Zoraya, let down Boabdil
veral recesses, are her daughters; yet in a basket, as James I. was from the
I possess excellence and dignity above castle of Edinburgh.
all those of my race. Surely we are Corning up again, turning to the rt.,
all members of the same body, butl a heavy gallery, built by Charles V.,
am like the heart in the midst of them, leads to the '1bcaa'or de la Reina, or
and from the heart springs all energy the dressing-room of the Queen, as the
of soul and life.” The l. inscription Spaniards have called this somewhat
runs, “True, my fellows, these may exposed, and Z1 la Bathshebah Jllirudor,
be compared to the signs of the zodiac which is only the Tvoc keyseh of the
in the heaven of that dome, but I can Moslem of Cairo (see Lane, ii. 62).
- boast that of which they are wanting, The chilly Fleming Charles blocked
the honour of a sun, since my lord, up the elegant Moorish colonnade,
the victorious Yusuf, has decorated and the marble shafts still struggle
me with robes of glory, and excellence to get out of their mortar prison. The
without disguise, and has made me royal dressing-room is about 9 feet
the Throne of Iris Empire: may its square; the interior was modernised
Ronola ti’ Granada. ROUTE 25.—THE ALHAMBRA. 309
by Charles, and painted in arabesque awaits in this delightful spot.” Near
like the Vatican loggie; but no picture the bailos is a whispering-gallery,
of art can come up to those of nature, which pleases the childish, tasteless
when We look around on the hills and natives more than any Moorish re
defiles as seen from between the marble mains. The suite of rooms above
colonnade. The artists were Julio were modernised by the newly married
and Alesandro, pupils of Giovanni da Charles V., who arrived here June 5,
Udina, who had come to Spain to de 1526. Here Spaniards contend that
corate the house of Francisco de los Philip II. was at least begotten, if he
Cobos, the Emperor’s secretary, at was born at Valladolid, May 21, 1527.
Ubeda. They represent views of The ceilings, heavy fire-places, and
Italian seaports, battles, ships, and carvings of Charles, are diametrically
banners, but have been barbarously opposed to the work of the Moor: he
mutilated. These walls are scribbled demolished everything both here and
over with the names of travellers, the to the l. in the Patio de los Arra_yanes,
homage of all nations. In a corner is called also De Lindaraja, from the
a marble slab drilled with holes, name of a Moorish princess. There is
through which perfumes were said to an Arabic fountain in the court.
have been wafted up while the Sultana Retracin our steps through the
was dressing, after the fashion of the Patio de a Alberca, we pass by an
“ Foramina et Specularia” of the ans anteroom, much altered by Ferdinand
cients, but the room was either an and Isabella, and still worse by Philip
oratory or a mere mirador, as an ex V., into the Court of Lions, a Moorish
posed alfresco dressing-room would cloister, but one never framed for as
have been an absurdity. cetics. Here Spanish bad taste and
From the anteroom of the Comares foreign Vandalism have done their
a passage, protected by iron gratings, worst. The vile tiled roof, fitter for
leads to the Moorish baths; this a barn than a palace, was clapped on
place is absurdly called el Carcel de la by the Irishman Wall in 1770-—a round
Reina, from supposing it to have been hat on a gorgeous Mameluke. The
the dungeon of ’Ayeshah. The de cockney garden was the work of the
fences are of Spanish construction, and French; that, thank God! has been
were put up in 1639 to protect the done away with recently. The repairs
royal plate-closet.The little patio and whitewashings are Spanish. Ay!
below is well reserved, for these de mi Alhambra!
bafms lay out of? the way of ordinary The patio is an hypethral quadri
ill-usage. They consist of El B(l1L0 lateral oblong of some ll6 feet by 66;
del Rey and El Buiio del Principe. 128 pillars of white marble ll feet high
The vapour-bath is lighted from above support a peristyle or portico on each
by small lumbreras or “ louvres.” The side, so say travellers of the line and
Moorish cauldron and leaden pipes rule class : at each end, two elegant pa
were sold by the daughters of Buca vilions project into the court. The co
relli. The Azulejos are curious. The l umns are placed sometimes singly,
arrangement of these baths is that still sometimes grouped; although they are
used in Cairo: the bathers undressed so slender that they scarcely seem
in the entrance saloon, and underwent able to support the arches, 5 centuries
in the Hararah, or the “ vapour-bath," of neglect have not yet destroyed this
the usual shampooings. The upper slight fairy thing of filigree, which
portion of the chamber of repose has has not even the appearance of dura
a gallery in which musicians were bility; wherever the destroyer has
placed. Among the inscriptions is mutilated the fragile ornaments, the
“ Glory to our Lord, Abfi-1-Hajaj temple-loving martlet, guest of sum
Yusfif, commander of the Moslems: mer, builds his nest, and careers in
may God render him victorious over the delicate air, breaking with his
his enemies! What is most to be twitter the silence of these sunny, now
wondered at is the felicity which deserted, courts, once made for Ori
310 norm; 25.—GRANADA. Sect. Ill.
ental enjoyment, and even now just the current underneath strives to op
the place to read the Arabian Nigltts pose its progress; like a lover whose
in, or spend a honeymoon. eyelids are pregnant with tears, and
The _/uente in the centre is a. (lode who suppresses them for fear of an in
cagon basin of alabaster, resting on former? for truly, what else is this
the backs of 12 lions, rudely and her fountain but a beneficent cloud pouring
aldically carved, and closely resembling out its abundant supplies over the
those of Apulia and Calabria, by which lions underneath, like the hands of the
tombs and pulpits of Norman-Saracenic Khalif, when he rises in the morning
mosaic work are supported. These to distribute plentiful rewards among
Arabian sculptures make up for want his soldiers, the -Lions of war? Oh!
of reality by a sort of quaint heraldic thou who beholdest these Lions crouch
antiquity; such were those described ing, fear not ; life is wanting to enable
by Arnobius (Adv. Gen. vi.), “ Inter them to show their fury: and Ohl
Deos videmus Leonis torvissimam thou, the heir of the Anssar, to thee,
faciem.” Their faces arebarbecued,and as the most illustrious offspring of a
their manes cut like scales of a grifiiu, collateral branch, belongs that ances
and the legs like bedposts, with the feet tral pride which makes thee look with
concealed by the pavement, while a contempt on the kings of all other
water-pipe stuck in their mouths does countries. May the blessings of God
not add to their dignity. Lions, from for ever be with thee! May he make
remote antiquity, have been used as thy subjects obedient to thy rule, and
supporters; the Oriental type will be grant thee victory over thy enemies!”
found in the throne of Solomon (1 Since the damages done by Sebas
Kings vii. 29; X. 20). In fact, the tian, the fountains of the amphibious
whole Alhambra must have been like Moor, which played here in all direc
the ancient and Byzantine palaces. tions, long remalned ruined and dry.
The Hypodromus, the “ portico with That of the Lions alone is restored,
a hundred pillars,” the Azulejo pave and occasionally is set in action. Some
ment, the cypresses, the net-work of of the most beautiful chambers of the
fountains, the sound of falling waters, Alhambra open into this court: begin
are all detailed by Martial (xii. 50) ning to the rt. is the Sula de los Aberr
and Pliny, jun. (Ep. v. 6), and such cerrages; the exquisite door was sawn
was the palace of Justinian described into pieces in 1837 by the barbarian
by Gibbon. The inscription round Spanish governor: observe the honey
the basin signifies, “ Blessed be He comb stalactite roof; the slender pillar
who gave the Imam Mohamed a man of the alcove explains how Samson
sion, which in beauty exceeds all pulled down the support of the house
other mansions; and if not so, here is of Dagon. The roof and Azulejos were
a garden containing wonders of art, repaired by Charles V.: the guide
the like of which God forbids should points out some dingy stains near the
elsewhere be found. Look at this fountain as the blood-marks of the
solid mass of pearl glistening all Abencerrages, massacred here by Boab
around, and spreading through the air dil : alas, that boudoirs made for love
its showers of prismatic bubbles, which and life should witness scenes of hatred
fall within_a circle of silvery froth, and death! And oh, dearest reader!
and flow amidst other jewels, surpass believe this and every tale of the Al
ing everything in beauty, nay, ex hambra, a sacred spot far beyond the
ceeding the marble itself in whitenessjurisdiction of matter-of-fact and pro
and transparency: to look at the basinsaic history: do not disenchant the
one would imagine it to be a mass of romance of poetry, the genius loci;
solid ice, and the water to melt from where fairies have danced their mystic
it; yet it is impossible to say which rings, flowers may spring, but mere
of the two is really flowing. Seest grass will never grow: above all,
thou not how the water from above eschew geology; deem not these spots
flows on the surface, notwithstanding ferruginous, for nothing is more cer
Ronda <§' Granada. ROUTE 25.—Tnn ALHAMBRA. 311
tain than that heroic blood never can l mals sewn together and nailed to the
be efiaced, still less if shed in foul dome‘: a fine coating of gypsum was
murder. Nor, according to Lady used as pi-iming—a common process
Macbeth, will all the perfumes of with the early Byzantine painters: the
Arabia mask the smell. This blood is ornaments on the gold ground are in
quite as genuine to all intents of ro relief; they are now, and have long
mance as is that of Rizzio at Holyrood been, neglected. It is to be wished
house, or of Becket at Canterbury. that these relics, which in any other
Beware, says Voltaire, “ des gens durs country would be preserved under
qui si disent solides, des esprits som glass, should be accurately copied the
bres qui prétendent an jugement full size, for the plates in Murphy are
parce-qu’ils sont dépourvus d’imagina beneath criticism, from their gross in
tion, qui veulent proscrire la belle an accuracy.
tiquité de la fable— gardez-vous bien Of the many beautiful arches in this
do les croire.” building, few surpass that which opens
At the E. end of the court are 3 into the central saloon; observe the
saloons of extremely rich decoration: archivolt, spandrels, and inscriptions:
the Sula de Justicia is so called from surface lace-like ornamentation never
an assemblage of 10 bearded Moors was carried beyond this. In the
seated in a council or divan, which is last of the 3 rooms the cross was
painted on the ceiling. According to first placed by Cardinal Mendoza, and
Mendoza (Guer. de Gran. 1), the the identical one is preserved at To
portraits represent the successors of ledo. Ferdinand “ purified ” these
King Bulharix; all this is sheer non once gorgeous saloons, that is, white
sense-—but they, painted about 1460, washed them, and introduced his and
deserve notice as giving the true his wife’s badges, the yoke and the
costume of the Granada Moor; the bundle of arrows. And there is a
other pictures represent chivalrous moral in these symbols, which Spa
and amorous subjects, all naturally niards now-a-days will not understand:
tending to the honour of the‘ Moor, they inculcate “ ui1ion,” the “ drawing
whose royal shield is seen everywhere: together,” and a fair equality, instead
in one a Moor unliorses a Christian of struggle for pre-eminence. It was
warrior; another represents a captive by Arragon and Castilc’s “ pulling to
lady leading a chained lion, while she gether” that the Moorish house, di
is delivered from a wild man bya vided against itself, was overthrown.
knight. Observe a game of draughts Opposite to the Sala de los Aben
(the dzimeli of the Arab, the aux dames cerrages is that of Las dos Ilerwumas, so
of France); also the boar-hnntings, called from the 2 slabs of Macael marble,
with ladies looking out of turreted sisters in colour and form, which are let
castles, Christians on horseback, Moors into the pavement. This formed a por
in sweeping robes, with a background tion of the private apartments of the
of trees, buildings, birds, animals, Moorish kings, of which so much has
magpies, and rabbits, painted like an been destroyed, and the alcoves or sleep
illuminated book of the fifteenth cen ing-rooms on each side give it the
tury, or a dream of Chaucer’s :— character of a residence. This Sala
i “ On the walls old portraiture and its adjuncts is unequalled for the
Of horsemen, hawkes, and houndes, beauty and symmetry of the ornaments,
And hartes dire all full of woundes.”
the stalactite roof and general richness,
It is not known by whom these pic notwithstanding the degradation and
tures, unique considering the period, defilemcnts perpetrated during the sad
persons, and locality, were executed, long years of Spanish misrule. What
probably by some Christian renegado. must it once have been, cum tales sunt
They are painted in bright colours, reliquiael Well may one of the inscrip
which are still fresh; the tints are tions invite iis to “ Look attentively
fiat, and were first drawn in outline in at my elegance, and thou wilt reap
a. brown colour, and on skins of ani the benefit of a commentary on decora
it
SECTION IV .
CONT ENTS.
Page Page
norrrn 3l.—GRANADA T0 MURCIA 342 ROUTE 35.——ELCHE T0 nmnnrn . . . 352
Guadix; Lorna; Murcia.
ROUTE 36.—-ELCHE TO XATIVA - . . 353
more 32-—-MURCIA T0 MADRID . . 348
ROUTE 33__mmCm To CABTAGENA 349 nourr. 37.—r:r.caa T0 ALICANTE . 354
Mines, ancient and modern.
ROUTE 38.—AL1CAN'I‘1'-1 TO xxrrvn 355
moors 34.—CARTAGENA TO ALI- Casmlla; Ahoy; xmv,,_
canrn 351
Orihuels; Elche; Alicante. norrra 39.—XATlVA T0 VALENCIA 359
___._-_
SECTION V.
VALENCIA.
CONTENTS.
Page I P"-8*
‘ _.__ 66 ROU‘I‘E4l-—VALE.\‘CIA T0 MUR
VALENC“ ' 3 vianao....................383
Chelva; Portacmli; Segorbe; Mur
viedro.
ROUTE 40.—ExctmsION FROM VA- 383
.....38l ROUTE 42-—VALEl~‘¢IA T0 'l‘ARKA
Th-Albuf De_ GONA............-.........386
e em’- nm . Peniscola; Morella; the Ebro.
TOURS IN VALENCIA.
The S. portions will be found described in the last pages of Sect. IV. The towns are few;
Elche, Xativa, and the Albufera, are the leading features. The Summers are intensely hot; the
Springs and Autumns are the best periods for travelling. Valencia is a charming Winter
residence.
lyi
THIS Reina, now province, although one of the smallest provinces in Spain,
yields in fertility and delight to none of the others. 'l'he Moors placed their
Paradise at this spot, over which they imagined Heaven to be suspended,
and that a portion of it had fallen down on earth, “ ctelum hic cecidisse
putes," while the Jews forgot in it, even their Sion. This province
consists of 838 square leagues, of 20 to the degree, and of these only 240
are level land, being chiefly the maritime strip, which extends in length about
64 m. It is defended from the cold central table-lands by a girdle of moun
tains, which act not only as a barrier against the winds, but are magazines of
timber and fuel, and reservoirs of snow (an article of absolute necessity), and
sources of rivers. Its width varies from 6 to 20 L., being narrowest near
Orihuela and widest in the centre. The mountains abound with marbles and
minerals. The botanist and geologist should make excursions to the Sierra
of Espadan when near Castellon dc la Plana.
To invalids and consumptive patients the climate of Valencia is decidedl
superior to that of Italy; there is a most delicate softness in the air, which
is so dry withal, that salt undergoes_no change. Rain is very scarce; frosts
are almost unknown, whilst the sea-breeze tempers the summer heats, and the
fresh mountains offer verdurons retreats. This clean, lively capital——a city of
the sea and sun, with a climate soft and mild, and skies free from fogs and rain
—ofi'ers an excellent winter residence to those suffering under chronic bron
chitis, atonic dyspepsia, gouty and calculous diseases. The mean annual tem
perature is 65-5° ; that of winter 49- 7°. It has the advantage also—of possess
l'alencia. cnanncrsr. or TI-IE IRRIGATIOY. 361
ing, what is rare in Spain, an excellent physician, Dr. Battles,- of whom Dr.
Francis writes most favourably. To botanists the Flora of Valencia is that of a
natural hothouse, and unrivalled in colour and perfume. The Huerta, most
truly the Garden, is irrigated by the Turia, or Guadalaviar, Arabicc Wadda-I
abyzid/1, the white river. This great vena poma is so much drained or bled,
sangr-ado, for the use of the huerta and the city, that when it reaches the
capital in its natural bed it is almost dry. The Moors have bequeathed to
the Valencians their hydraulic science by which they exercised a magic
control over water, wielding it at their bidding: they could do all, but call
down the gentle rains from heaven, that best of all irrigations, agua del cielo, el
major riego. The network of artificial canals is admirable. The canal del Rey on
the Jucar, near Dutilla, and the 'w hole water-system about Alcira and Aljamesf,
deserve the closest examination of our engineers and agriculturists. The still
existing technical terms prove whence the theory and practice were derived.
The artist will sketch the picturesque noria, Arabice anaoura, the Cairo
sdclziyeh, or large water-wheel, which, armed with jars, descends into the well,
and as it rises discharges the contents into a reservoir.
The Huerta of Valencia is irrigated by 8 canals, of which the Moncada is the
chief main-trunk artery or principal canal, Arabice “ canna nmcunfirll," and sup
plies all the smaller veins, acequius, Arabice “ ciquia,” of the circulation: this is
managed by a reticulated network of minute ramifications, and dams, azudas,
Arabice sudd. The idea is simple, but the execution is most diflicult; and
often the greatest triumph of the hydraulist is where his works are least
apparent, for however level these plains in appearance, they are by no means
so in reality. The chief object was to secure a fair distribution, so that none
should be left dry, none overfiooded. When the engineer ceases, the legislator
begins, for since water here, as in the East, is the life-blood of the soil, and
equivalent to fertility and wealth, the apportionment has always been a source
of solicitude and contention. Rivality has indeed been derived from Rivas,
the bickerings about water-brooks; and so the l'Vells in ‘Genesis’ (xxvi.
20, 21) were named Esek, contention, and Sitnah, hatred; accordingly here,
where the knife is always ready, precautions are taken to keep the peace.
The regulating tribunal, de los acequieros, or del riego de las at/uas, instituted by
Alhaken Almonstansir Billar, still exists in its primitive and Oriental form
and force; 7 judges, chosen by each other, out of the yeomen and irrigators,
the labr-adores y acequieros of the Huc2'ta, sit at 12 o’clock every Thursday, in
the open air, on benches at La puerta de los Apostoles, at “ the gate” of the
cathedral, and decide all complaints respecting irrigation in a summary way.
In this court of common sense, no pen, ink, and paper, special plead
ings, or pettifogging attorneys are permitted. The patriarchal judges under
stand the subject practically, and decide without appeal; the discussion is
carried on we voce in public and in the “ Lemosin,” or the dialect of the
people: consult for details the Tratado dc la Disfribzzcion del Rio Turia, &c., F.
X. de Borrull, fol., Valencia, 1831, and L’Irriqaii0n dans le Royaume dc Valence.
Jaubert de Passa. Thus irrigated, the rich alluvial plains, which bask in the
never-failing all-vivifying sun, know no agricultural repose; man is never
weary of sowing, nor the sun of calling into life. The produce is almost
incredible under this combined influence of heat and moisture, and the
Valencian, with all his faults, is hard-working and industrious, and, like his
soil and climate, full of vitality. Thus, in one year, four, nay five, crops are
raised in succession. Rice, arroz, Arabice arooz (oryza), is the great cereal
staple, and the pest of the province. This source of wealth, sustenance, and
life, is also one of disease and death. The rice-stalks shoot up from tufts into
most graceful ears : as -heat and water are absolutely necessary for this grain,
many portions of Valencia are admirably calculated by nature for this culture,
since the rivers, which in some places are sucked up, reappear in marshy
Spain. —I. R
ri
VALENCIA. Inns, Fonda del Cit], by Pompey, and when rebuilt became
Plaza de Arzobispo, near the cathedral : a “Colonia,” and thecapital of the
small but very comfortable, with a Edetani. Taken from the Goths by
good table d’hf>te at 2% and 5. French the Moors under ’Abdu-l-’aziz, son of
and English spoken and newspapers Musa Ibn Nosseyr, in 7l2, it was an
taken in. Posada dz las Dili_1/encius, nexed to the kingdom of Cordova;
Plaza de Villaraza; Fonda Francesa, when the Ummeyah dynasty fell to
kept by Monsieur Laurent, with table pieces, it threw off its allegiance in
d'b6te at 5 for 10 reals; Hotel de 1056. The Christians, as usual, took
1|/[iulrid ,' Fonda dc Europa, Plaza dc lu
advantage of these intestine dissensions
Constitucion (where Francois I. was between rival rulers, and Alonso VI.
lodged). The Cusas de Pupilos are placed Yahya on the throne, and sur
indifferent; the best is in the Calle rounded him with Spanish troops. This
de Caballeros. The best booksellers created an insurrection: a rebel chief,
are Jllallert, Oabrerizo, Calle San Vi one Ibn Jehaf, murdered Yahya, and a
cente. Café, del Sol, Calle de Zara pretext was afforded for Spanish inter
goza. Delicious Orchdtas are sold en ference, and the celebrated guerrillero,
el Mercado and el Palau. The baths the Cid, aided by the local knowledge
are good, especially those of Espinosa, and influence of Alvar Fanez, took
and in the “Hospital.” Valencia is Valencia, which capitulated after a
well supplied with shops; the Plateria siege of 20 months, A.D. 1094-5. The
should be visited, as the silver flowers first act of the Cid, whose perfidy and
made for the hair are peculiar, and cruelty is the theme of the Arabian
still more so are the ornaments a la annalists, was to burn Ibn Jehaf alive
antique, made for the peasants. on the great plaza (see Conde, Xerif
The name of Valencia, this town Aledris, 165, and more fully ‘Moh.
and province of unsubstantial disre D.’ ii. Ap. xxxix.). Here he ruled
pnte, is fondly derived from, or con despotically until his death in 1099,
sidered equivalent to ROMA, because when the Moor, Oct. 25, 1101, dispos
Pom in Greek signifies power, as Va sessel his widow Ximena, but Valencia
lentia does in Latin. Thus, because was retaken Sept. 28, 1228 (others say
for a wonder Valencia was not taken Sept. 29, l239),by Jaime I. of Aragon,
in 1843 by the Esparterists, owing and was brought into the Castilian
snlcl_// to the treachery of Zabala, the crown by Ferdinand‘s marriage with
wishy-washy citizens, valientes con los Isabella, being inherited by their grand
dientes, and hares not lions, petitioned son Charles W. The first blow to its
to be called “ magnanimous.” Valentin prosperity was dealt by the bigoted
was founded by J unius Brutus for the and barbarous expulsion of the indus
veterans who had warred under Vi trious Moriscoes, under Philip III.
riatus (Livy,ep. lv.l. It was destroyed The second was given by Philip V.
l"alenc1'a. VALENCIA DEL CID. 367
Valencia, as it had flourished under the Spaniards before Valencia, Suchct eva
Austrian dynasties, opposed the French cuated the impoverished city July 5,
claim, and was robbed-of its liberties 1813, and Francisco Javier Elio en
and gold by Philip V. The remem tered. Here he welcomed Ferdinand
brance of past ill usage, and the dread VII., April 16, 1814; who, hearing of
of future, induced the populace to rise Buonaparte’s downfall, determined to
instantly on the news of Murat‘s but upset the Cortes, and found a tool in
cheries of the Dos de Mayo, 1808. Then this servil Elio, who during the struggle
the tree of patriotism and independ had been a time-server, and so dis
ence, watered everywhere else with graced at Biur and Castalla as to be
blood, was inundated in this land of suspected, says Napier (xxi. 1), of a
irrigation: 363 French residents were treacherous understanding with the
massacred, June 5, 1808, in the Plaza French. This “Monk” of the re
de Zbros, butchered to make a Valencian storation was rewarded by being
holiday; the mob, nothing loth, were made Captain-General of Valencia,
goaded on by the canon Balthazar where he signalized himself by per
Calvo; the few French who escaped secuting his former friends, by whom
were saved by an Englishman, Mr. he was murdered in 1822, when the
Tupper, and this while Buonaparte Constitucion was in power. Cosas de
and his Moniteur were ascribing every Espaiia. In 1838 the valiant city
horror in Spain to la per-fide Albion. trembled at the mere approach of
Moncey advanced in June with 8000 Cabrera, 1840; Christina abdicated
men, and had he not loitered the 25th here, and Espartero became Regent;
at the Vcnta de Bufiol, Valencia must and here, in 1843, Narvaez was wel
have fallen, as in the valiant town all comed to upset him, and be rewarded
was cowardice and confusion: the with the title of Valencia.
generals and nobles wanted both hearts Valencia del Cid is the capital of its
and heads; but while they fled, their province, the see of an archbishop,
vassals combated. A bold monk named the residence of a captain-general, for
Rico animated the populace, and Mon merly a viceroy, and has an audiencia
cey was beaten back, retiring with or supreme court of justice, a univer
great loss on Almansa, and there, had sity, theatre, Plaza de Toros, musco,
the Conde de Oervellon shown either and two public libraries, and the usual
courage or brains, not one of the enemy prisons, hospitals, barracks, &c. It
could have escaped. Subsequently is a cheap well-supplied city, for here
Blake, after courting defeat near Mur fish, flesh, fruit, and green herbs
viedro, fell back on the city, and, on abound. The society is easy, and
Suehet's advance, concluded his in there is a good Casino or club to which
glorious career by surrendering with strangers are easily introduced; the
20,000 men and 390 guns; “ misfor climate delicious, the winter-shoot
tunes to be attributed," said the terse ing first-rate; the pop., including
Duke (Disp., Jan. 20, 1812), “ to the suburbs, reaches 70,000. It has a
Blake’s ignorance of his profession‘ and cathedral and 14 parish churches; the
Mahy’s cowardice and treachery.” countless convents, first plundered in
Suchet pledged himself that no man the war, are now suppressed. The
should be molested, but no sooner was city in shape is almost circular; the
he master of the city than he put to Turia flows along the N. base: the
death all‘who had most distinguished sandy bed of this exhausted river is
themselves in the national cause, and crossed by 5 wide bridges’ which
continued his executions through all serve as viaducts in time of-inunda
the province, from which, in 38 tions. The tapia, hattlemented walls,
months, he extorted 37 millions of built in 1356 by Pedro IV., are very
reals, while his bombs and pickaxes perfect and picturesque. Walk round
created irreparable loss to literature them. There are 8 gates ; some retain
and the fine arts. When Wellington, their towers and machicolations; that
at Vitoriu, repaired the failures of the of El Serrunos, begun in 1349, and of
368 VALENCIA—-EL MICALET. Sect. V.
El Cuarte, 1444, are used as prisons The first thing which the Cid did
(Newgates). Outside the latter is the on capturing Valencia was to take his
Plaza dc Toros, and the highly inter wife and daughters up to a height, and
esting Botanical Garden; indeed this show them all its glories. Ascend,
is a city of flowers; and here the therefore, the cathedral tower, which
French under Moncey were repulsed is open from 8 to 12 .\.m., and from 2
by Rico and Tupper. The city inside to 5 P.M.; it is called El Micalet, or
is very Moorish and closely packed, del Miguelete, because its bells were
with few gardens within the walls; first hung on St. Michacl’s Feast.
the streets in general are narrow and This isolated octangular Gothic belfry
tortuous, and the houses lofty and is built with a brownish stone, 162 ft.
gloomy-looking, but admirably calcu high, and disfigured by a modern top.
lated to keep out the enemy, /L6(lt. It was raised in 1381-1418 by Juan
Those who land only for a few Franck (see the inscription), and was
hours from, the steamer, may obtain a intended to have been 350 ft. high;
rapid general notion of the best parts the panorama is very striking, nay, to
of Valencia, by taking the rail from the northern children of the mist and
the Grao or by jumping into atarta1m— fog, the bright sky itself is wonder
make your bargain as to fare—and enough, giving a glimpse of the glory of
drivinv round the following course: heaven, an atmosphere of golden light
Start from the great door of the ca which Murillo alone could paint when
thedral, passing down the Calle dc wafting his Blessed Virgin into Para.
Zaragoza into the Calle San Martin dise. The air is also so clear and dry
and an Vicente, coming back by the that distant objects appear as if quite
Calle San Fernando, to the Mercado; close. By taking up the map of the
thence by the Calle del Cuarte and town by Francisco Ferrer, the disposi
Caballeros, turning to the 1. by the tion will be soon understood. The
Calle de Serranos, and going out at the streets are so narrow that the openings
gate to the banks of theTuria; thence to scarcely appear amid the irregular,
the Puerta del Real, crossing over and close-packed roofs, of which many are
following the Alameda, and recrossing flat, with cane cages for pigeons, of
at the Puerta del Mar to the Glorieta, which the Valencians are great fan
and then back again by the pretty ciers and shooters. The spires rise
planted road to the Grao. The streets thickly amid blue and white-tiled
are in some cases left unpaved, in domes; to the N. are the hills of Mur
order thatlthe scrapings may furnish viedro, Saguntum; the Huerta is
manure for the Huerta: all this is ma studded with Alquerias, farm-houses
naged by El tribunal del rcpeso, whose and cottages, thatched like tents, and
president is the exact Roman Edilis glittering like pearls set in emeralds.
and Moorish Almotacen. N.B. For In the Micalet is the great bell, La
excursions in the Huerta, hire a Tartana, Vela, which, like that of the Alhambra,
the common Valencian vehicle, which gives warning of irrigation periods.
resembles a dark green covered taxed The cathedral, La Seo, the See, was
cart; the type is the Oriental or Turkish built on the site of a Roman temple
Aruba. It may be compared to a Vene of Diana. It was dedicated to the
tian Gondola on wheels, and,like that, Saviour by the Christian Goths, to
although forbidding-looking, often cou Jllaho-met by the Moors, and to the
tains a deal of fun, like mourning Virgin by the mariolatrous Spaniards,
coaches when the funeral is done. The thus restoring it to a primitive female
name is taken from a sort of felucca, deity. This cathedral was raised to
_or Mediterranean craft. Now-a-days, metropolitan rank, July 9, 1492, by
111 .the civilization mania, English Innocent VIlI.; Rodrigo de Borja,
broughams, and French cabriolets afterwards Alexander VI., being the
are superseding the national vehicle. first archbishop. The sutfragans are
Good riding horses may be hired at cl Segorbe. Orihuela, Mallorca, and Mi
meson de Teruel. norca. This edifice, one of the least
Valencia. CATHEDRAL. 369
remarkable of Spanish capitals, has dal Yoo, but most of the bullion was
been vilely modernized inside and stript ofi‘ and melted in 1809. The
outside; begun in 1262 by Andres painted door-panels, once framed
de Albalat, the third bishop, the with plate, escaped, and of these
original edifice was much smaller, Philip IV. well remarked, that if the
extending only to the chapel of San altar was of silver they were of gold :
Francisco de Borja ; it was lengthened they are painted on both sides and in
in 1482, by Valdemar; but as the a very fine Florentine manner, and
height of the first building was pre have been attributed to Leonardo da
served, it now appears low and dispro Vinci, or at least to his pupils Pablo
portioned to the length. The ori de Aregio and Francisco Neapoli,
ginal style was Gothic, but the interior 1506. Villanueva (i. 39), however,
was Corinthianised in 1760 by Anto thinks them to be the works of Felipe
nio Gilabert; the principal entrance Paulo de Santa Leucadia, a Burgun
is abominable, the receding circular diau artist. They were ordered and
form being in defiance of all archi paid for by Rodrigo Borja in 1471,
tectural propriety. lt was modern who, whatever his vices, was a magni
ized by one Cori-ado Rodulfo, a Ger ficent prince, as his decorated chambers
man, and presents a confused unsightly in the Vatican still evince. Observe
jumble of the Corinthian order, with particularly the Nativity, Ascension,
bad statues of the local saints, Vicente Adoration, Pentecost, the Death,
de Ferrer, Luis Beltran, and others, Resurrection, and the Ascension of
by Ignacio Vergara, a pupil of Ber the Virgin. The finest is perhaps
nini. The Gothic interior has 3 that to the bottom on the rt.; the dead
aisles, with a semicircular termination figure is grand, while those in the
behind the high altar. The transept foreground are superior to Masaccio.
and fine cimborio, built in 1404, are Observe also the landscape in the
the best portions: here 2 Gothic gates Resurrection; these grand things, here
face each other; one de los Apostoles, buried in a napkin, ought to be better
with figure of the Virgin and scra known in Europe. The walls were
phims, the other del Puluu, with the painted in fresco by P. de Aregio and
heads of the 7 couples who contri Francisco Neapoli; but all was de
buted to repeople Valencia, when con stroyed in the barbarous “ improve
quered by the Christians (see Madoz, ments" of Archbishop Camer.os in
xv. 376); behind the circular end is i674-82.
the celebrated chapel ofNuestra Seflora Next observe the painted doors be
do los Desamparados. hind the altar, especially the Christ
The Corinthian Sz'lleria del Caro is seated; this grand work has been
carved in walnut: this with the bronze injured by the key and the friction of
portal were given by the Canon Miedes. opening and shutting. Here are pre
The elaborate Trascoro was wrought served the spurs and bridle of Jaime
in alabaster about 1466, although it the Conqueror. Part of the old
scarcely appears so old. A variety of Retablo exists, and is put up in the Ca
holy subjects in high relief, 6 on pilla dc San Pedro. ’At the Trans
each side, are set in 8 reddish pillars altar is an elegant tomb, with plate
with gilt Corinthian capitals; the resque ornaments and pillars: observe
high altar was unfortunately modern in the superb painted windows the
ised in 1682. The original Retablo rich greens of the centre one, and the
was burnt on Easter Sunday, May 21, purples and scrolly gold-work of the
1460, having been set on fire by a others. Near the Puerta del Arm
pigeon bearing lighted tow, which bispo is the chapel of San Vicente
was meant to represent the Holy Ferrer; observe 2 fine pictures of
Ghost in some religious ceremony. him and his model and master, Saint
The altar mayor was restored in 1498 Dominick. Thence pass to the three
in exquisite silver-work by Jaime Cas Sucristias, and over the door of one
tellnou, the Maestro Cetina, and Na is a grand “ Christ mocked before
B 3
370 VALENCIA——CATHEDRAI,-—RELICS. Sect. V.
Pilate,” in darkish style; also ob one was brought from the monastery
serve on the other side, and opposite of San Juan dc la Perla, but it was
the door of the sacristy, a “ Christ broken in 1744 by a clumsy canon
bearing his Cross." equal to Sebastian named Vicente Trigola. A solemn
del Piombo, by Ribalta; also a “ Dc festival and service was performed to
position,” ascribed to Jean Belino, and this relic Aug. 31 ; and Agustin Sales,
a “Conversion of St. Paul :” in the in 1736, wrote a volume to prove its
Sacristiu, modernised in white and authenticity and power of working
gold, is a “Saviour with a Lamb,” miracles. This santo calix, a fine bit
by Joanes; an “ Abraham and Isaac,” of medizeval silver-work, is kept in a
by Espinosa; and a truly Raphaclesque quaint silver box, with an exquisitely
Holy Family, by Joanes, in which chased paten, ornamented with enamel
St. John gives the Saviour a blue and an engraving of the dead Saviour
flower. Observe also a crucifix of in the Virgin's arms. Note also the
ivory which once belonged to San head of Santo Tomas, which was taken
Francisco de Sales, and the ivory every year in grand procession to re
I2/zculo of St. Agustin, which is kept visit his body, at the Socos. The fine
here in a case. crucifix by Alonso Cano, once in the
The Relicario, once rich in relics Socos, is in the Sala Capitular; it is
and gold and silver, was much thinned life size, and rather unpleasing, from
in I809 of the latter. Among Lax the open mouth, but it is carefully
Reliqwias, as described by Villanneva‘ modelled. This grandiose sala was
(ii. 22), observe especially a tooth of, built in I358 by Pedro Compte.
San Cristobal, big as that of an ass, 4 Observe in the same chapel a. chain
and which some heretical naturalists hung on the wall, which is said to be
assign to a Rhinoceros, but comparative a trophy carried off from Marseilles.
anatomy upsets many a Budd/ta relic. Inquire also particularly in the sacris
This Valencian talisman is here adored tia to see the terno, and complete set
every July I0, a particular holiday, of three fronmles, or coverings for the
inasmuch as the Jewish synagogue at altar, which were purchased in Lon
Valencia was plundered on that day don by two Valencian merchants,
in 139], and the Hebrews massacred, named Andrea and Pedro de Medina,
San Cristobal being seen on the house at the sale by Henry VIII. of the Ro
tops encouraging the disciples of San mish decorations of St. Paul's. They
Vicente Ferrer. Villanneva gives an are embroidered in gold and silver,
engraving of this wise tooth, for the are about I2 ft. long by 4, and repre-~
benefit of posterity, in case the original sent subjects from the life of the Sa
should decay. Yet when alive the viour. In one—Christ in Limbo
good ferryman must either have had a are introduced turrets, evidently taken
new set of teeth every year, or a mouth from those of the Tower of London.
better furnished than an alligator’s, for They are placed on the high altar
there was scarcely a relicario in Spain from Saturday to Wednesday in the
which could not boast of a noble Holy Week. A terno is only used on
grinder. But the clerigos know the full grand funcizmes, when a Misa de trcs
value of a good masticator, which is is celebrated by a Presbytero en cusulla
more precious in acanon’s jaw, than the and two Diaconos en dalmaticas. There
pearl in Cleopatra’s ear. is also a paiio de pulpito, de atril, a
The lorious custodia of I452 was frontal, and a palla to cover the patena
melted uring the war. An arm of St. or top of the sacramental cup. En
Luke is kept in a handsome case, and quire also for a missul, said to have
a. portrait of the Virgin, said to be its belonged to Westminster Abbey before
work, in a pretty Gothic silver frame. the Reformation.
The emphatic relic is el santo calix, In the altar de San Miguel is a Vir
the identical cup used at the last gin by Sassoferrato, and above a fine
supper, of which so many are shown Christ holding a globe. Inquire also
in different orthodox relicarios. This for a “ Virgin” and superb portrait of
Valencia. CHAPEL OF TI-[E VIRGIN. 371
the priest Agnesio by Joanes; his 1667, on the site of a temple to Escu
“ Baptism of the Saviour,” over the lapius, whose practice has now passed
font or pila, is very fine. The expres to this Minerva Medica: her benefits
sion of patience and devotion in the are evinced by infinite votive ofiferin gs.
Son’s face is very remarkable. In the But as Diagoras said there would be
Cupilla San Luis is the tomb of Arch many more votive tablets, if all who
bishop Ayala, 1566; the prelate lies were not cured olfered also (Cic. N. D.
in his robes: the fresco paintings are iii. 37). Be that as it may, no wonder
by Josef Vergara, and bad. The Ca that her image is placed in the Valen
pilla San Sebastian contains several cian hospital, el General, since the Me
paintings by Orrente, of which observe dicos de Valencia, according to the pro
the tutelar saint, the masterpiece of ve'rb—pace Dr. Battles—have luengas
this Valencian Bassano. Ribalta, when faldas y poca cienciu. Among the infi
told that he was going to paint it, nite names and attributes of the Virgin
said, “ Then you will see a fine Santo none is more common in Spain than that
de lana,” alluding to his sheepish style. rleloslicrncdios. The chapel, modernised
The "sepulchres of Diego de Covar and beautified in 1823, in the vilest
robias, obt. 1604, and Maria Diaz, his taste, is a gaudy oval, enriched with
wife, are fine. The Capilla dc San marble pillars and gilt Corinthian
Pedro was modernized in 1703; the capitals: the dome was painted and
altar is churrigueresque; the walls puffed by Palomino, in his own book
were painted by the feeble Palomino, (ii. 296). He inscribed it “ Non est
and the cupola by the more feeble inventum tale opus in universis reg
Canon Victoria. Observe the exqui nis.” The subject is the “ Coronation
site “ Christ in a violet robe with the of the Virgin by the Trinity ;” the
wafer and chalice,” by Joanes. Ob execution is below mediocrity: the
serve portions of the alabaster screen, Palladium of Valencia itself; the sa
which originally formed the Retablo of grada imagen, richly arrayed and de
the high altar; the “ Christ bearing his corated, is placed under a superb
Cross,” by Ribalta: many fine pictures camarin of jaspers; it was carved in
have recently “ disappeared ;” enquire, 1410, by order of the Spanish antipope
however, for the portrait of “ El Beato Luna, Benedict XIlI., who destined it
Ribera,” and the “ Santo Tomas de for the chapel of a lunatic asylum:
Villanueva,” both by Joanes. The others say it was made by 3 angels in
Sala Oupitular has also been modem 3 days, a legend which is painted in
.ised, in white and gold, with pinkish the picture here by Orrente. During
marble pillars. The Capilla de San the war the image was created by the
Francisco de Borja is painted in fresco sane Valencians Generalisimn, just as
by the poor Baycu and Goya. In an Teresa of Avila was appointed Com
altar to the N. in a glass case and mander-in-Chief by the Cortes of
covered with dust is a grand Ecce Cadiz, which refused to appoint the
Hmno, which probably is by Ribalta. Duke of Wellington; accordingly when
Leaving the Puerta dc los Apostolcs, the French entered Valencia, this
is an incongruous modern brick build image of the Virgin wore the 3 gold
ing stuck on to the cathedral, the old bars, the emblems of the rank of Cap,
gate contrasting with an open circular tain-General, and the Marques dc los
white Ionic erection, which, with its Palacios, commander of the city, took
double gallery, looks like a Plaza do few other steps of defence than laying
Zbros ; an arched passage leads to the his baton at its feet. It was then car
chapel of Nuestra Seilora dc los Denm ried in pomp round the walls, the
parados, the Virgin of the Unprotected, whole population exclaiming, “ The
to whom, when not protected by allies, divine mother will protect us.” Much
the Blakes and Mahys applied in reliance was also placed on lighted
times of danger, instead of putting candles, as, 2 burning before La Ma
their own shoulders to the wheel. donna having escaped a bomb, a Spa
The ancient sanctuary was rebuilt in nish colonel assured the inmates of the
372 VALENCIA——HOUSI$ . Sect. V .
house that she would save Spain obliged to be set back, with a view of
“ because the number two signified per widening the streets; the rebuilt man
severance.” See for details Schep. iii. sions are uniform and commonplace,
437, 4ss. with rows of balconies. Of the most
The prelate’s palace is close to el remarkable -houses observe the fine
Seo: it once "contained a fine library, specimen “ la Cusa de Salicofras,” with
formed in I762 by Don Andres noble patio and marble colonnade.
Mayoral: the chapter library was also The upper corridor is charming, with
very rich in medals, antiquities, and slender njirrwz pillars. Observe the
liturgical codices, made in I812, portals and doorways. It, in latter
during Suchet’s occupation, food for times, has been degraded into a printing
bombs, and fuel for camp kettles. concern and a chocolate-shopl Another
The shelves have in some sort been re good house is in the Calle Cadirers: ob
filled. Next visit the fine saloons in serve that of the Marques dc dos Aguas,
the Casa Con-Sisioriul, or the Audiencia, Plaza de Villaraza, which has a gro
a noble Doric pile: the view from its. tesque portal, a fricasee of palm-trees,
balustrades is fine. Ascending to the Indians, serpents, and absurd forms, the
first floor and entering the anteroom design of one Rovira and the work of
of the great saloon, observe the por Vergara. In the house of the Conde
traits of the kings of Spain, hung dc Ccrvellon, near the Puerta del Mar,
around, below the cornice; el Salon de Ferdinand VII. was lodged on his re
Cortes is a noble room, and has its turn from France. The house-fancier
walls painted in curious old frescoes may visit that of Pino/iermoso, G. del
by Cristobal Zaririeria, 1592, but since Gobernador Viejo, and of Baron Llauri,
vilely gone over with oil, representing with its fine Genoese marbles: from
the ditferent members, and seemingly the balcony of Tio Florido’s house the
over the places which the originals patriot Riego harangued the mob.
occupied; above is a charming carved . The vast mansion of the Conde de
gallery, then a halustrade, pillars, cor-_ Parsent, Calle de Carniceros, contains
nice, and rich panelled ceiling, rare some good pictures: observe the Ado
treats for the architectural eye. In a ration of Shepherds, a St. Catherine,
chest are kept the sword of the con Christ breaking the Bread at Emmans,
queror Jaime, and the Moorish keys by Ribalta. The ]l[a1-ques del Rdfol
of the town surrendered to him ; in the has also a collection : observe the San
library is a curious MS. relating to the Pedro Pascual, a head of Christ, Mo
city’s commerce in the 15th centy. The rales, 2 Dominican Monks plucking
chapel of the Virgin and 3 adjoining Flowers, 'a Crucifixion, San Bernardo,
courts contain nothing remarkable. Isaac and Abraham, all by Ribalta;
Below, the Secretaria del Gobierno has also his portrait by himself; a fine '
also a fine gilt and carved ceiling. San Sebastian, by Ribera; San Vicente
The Calle dc atI)I.l”8)‘0S is, as its preaching, Joanes. The celebrated
name implies, the aristocratic street. zesthetic hairdresser, El Peluquero Pedro
The character of these Valencian Perez, whose house was crammed
houses is anything but unsubstantial, with an omnium gatherum of art,
as they have an air of solid nobility: where all the geese were swans, died
a large portal opens into a patio, with in 1848, leaving his treasures to his
arched colonnades, which are fre old maid. The Spanish and Celtibe
quently elliptical; the staircases are rian coins were good until the perm
remarkable for their rich banisters, quier polished otf the venerable a=.rugo~,
and the windows are either Gothic or lathering and shaving them as it were,
formed in the ajimez style, with a a common fate in Spain. This unmis
slender single shaft dividing the aper matic Figaro was, after all,himself,like
ture; the long lines of open arcades old Tradescant, the most curious of his
under the roofs give an Italian light rarities. This Figaro of taste, when he
ness iu these modernising days. When laid aside his razors, was appointed
ever a house is now taken down it is “ Conserge” to the Academy of Nobles
Valencia. COLEGIO DE CORPUS. 373
Artes of San Carlos, Plaza de his purple pall, the colour of mourning;
Barcus, where are some second-rate none stand near it save the silent qui
objects of art, and bad pictures with risters; next an aged priest approaches
good names, a Transfiguration by Ri and prostrates himself; then all kneel
balta, a San Sebastian by Ribera, and on the ground and the solemn chant
some portraits of poets from the mo begins. At the first verse the picture
nastery Murta. A barber, however, is above the altar descends by a noiseless
a personage in this land of Figaro. unseen machinery, and the vacancy is
Suchet, too, who shaved Valencia supplied by a lilac veil with yellow
pretty well, began life as ’prentice to a stripes; as the chant proceeds this is
perruquier. In the Calle San Vicente withdrawn, and discloses one of a
lives a hatter, el Sombrcrero, who has faint grey, which, when removed, dis
also some Barberic pictures, which he covers another of deep black, and then
shows readily to strangers; they are but after a lengthened pause another and
second-class. Ditto aSexior De la Cuadz-Z1. the last. The imagination is thus
The Colegio de Corpus or del Patri worked up into a breathless curiosity,
arcu is a museum of Ribaltas. It was which is heightened by the tender
founded in 1586, and finished in 1605 feeling breathed out in that most
by the Archbishop Juan Rihcra, a beautiful of penitential psalms. Then
scion of that powerful family of Se at once the last veil of the temple is
ville. He is generally called “El as it were rent asunder, and the Sa
Santa Ribera,” having been canonized viour appears dying on the cross; a
in 1797: he died in 1611, aged 78, sepnlchral light is cast on the brow, on
' having been primate of Valencia 42 which a sweat of agony seems to
years: see the engraved stone in the mantle, while “the shadow of death
middle of the transept. He was a hangs on the eyelid” (Job -xvi.
ferocious persecutor of the Moriscos; l6). This melodramatic representation,
one of his pulpit diatribes is printed by which realises, as it were, the Cruci
Dr. Geddes in his Tracts (i. 166, 3rd fixion, was too harrowing to be long
edit., Lond., 1730). His life has been looked at; but soon a distant quire
written by Francisco Escriba, 4to., of silvery voices struck up, and the
Valencia, 1612, and by Juan Ximenez, pall closed over the spectacle: ‘one not
fol., Roma, 1734. The noble Corinth to be profaned by irreverent or length
ian chapel of the college was built by ened curiosity.
Anton del Rey, after, it is said, a plan The scholar will compare these many
of Herrera. It is somewhat dark, the curtains, these “ hangings” (2 Kings
windows being very small; the walls xxiii. 7), and their gradual with
again, like in the temples of Babylon drawal, with those described by Apn
(Baruch vi. 21), are “ blacked through leius (Met. xi. 252), “ Velis reductis
the smoke ” of the “incense offered to in diversum ;” and still closer by
the queen of Heaven ” (Isa. xliv. 25), Tertullian, in his first chapter ad V -
nigra fuado siinulacra fumo; moreover lentinianosl where the phallic idol was
the daylight was purposely excluded revealed: “ nihil magis curant qnam
by desire of the founder, who wished occultare, quod prmdicunt—~tanti1I11
to give the impressiveness of religious majestatem exhibere videatur quantam
obscure to the ceremonies, which show praestruxerunt cupiditatem; sequitur
the best in their own dim shadow. jam silentii ofiicium, attenté custoditur
The miserere on a Friday morning quod tardé invenitur; caeterum tota in
is, or was in our time, one of the adytis divinitas, tota suspiria epoptarmn,
most impressive services of Spain: be totum signaculum revelatur.” Some
there at 10, as soon after the dark have read instead of the “ sighs of the
ling chapel is rendered darker by admitted eye-witnesses,” tot szparia
drawing blinds over the windows and portarum, “ so many curtains of doors ;”
shutting the doors, to exclude also the but either reading IS equally applicable
idle trifler; the whole space above to what takes place on this occasion at
the high altar is now covered with a Valencia.
374 VALENCL-\—RIBALTA. Sect. V.
The sculptor should examine this lomé Malarana (Kill Frog). The pic
crucifix as a work of art; and by ap ture in the Capilla de las Animus is by
plication to the rector, and a fee to the F. Zuccaro. The body of the founder
sacristrm, it can be seen in the after is preserved in a sarcophagus, and lies
noon, When the chapel is closed to the clad in episcopal robes, with a crozier
public; get a ladder and lights, and between the legs; the gold and silver
then will be revealed the ropes and" ornaments were stripped ofi‘by Suchet’s
contrivances by which all this solemn troops: the features are pinched and
scene-shifting is managed. The carv wasted; the gorgeous copes and trap
ing is one of the finest in Spain, but pings mock the mouldering mummy:
nothing is known of its origin. It be in the Cttpilla de San Mauro is another
longed to the founder, and was placed of these melancholy relics.
here by his express order, as a relic, The Sacristia is fine, and was built
from the number of miracles which it by Geronimo Yavari. The wardrobes
worked. To us it appeared to be Flo with Doric ornaments are good; in an
rentine, and of the time of Jaen de inner room is the Reliquario; the bones,
Bologna. The material is a dark &c., are arranged in rows like an ana
wood; the feet, extremities. and ana tomical museum; the invaders “ re
tomy are very fine: observe the broad moved” the gold and silver settings.
modelling of the forehead, and the The spectator kneels while the show
lines about the mouth,where character man points to each, and an assistant
resides; as death is here represented, drawls out the items as by rote. This
the absence of life, which is so felt in exhibition usually takes place imme
painted sculpture, does not offend. diately after the Friday miserere, and
The whole church deserves a care destroys all devotional sentiment; it
ful inspection, as here Ribalta is pro is a farce after the tragedy. Observe,
perly to be estimated: in the first however, a small altar painted by
chapel to the l. is one of his mas J oanes, and the picture of a dead pre
terpieces, and painted in a style be late with Satan and an angel contend
tween Titian and Vandyke; “San ing for his soul, which belonged to El
Vicente de Ferrer visited on his sick Santa Ribera, and was always kept in
bed by our Saviour and Saints ;” he his room as a memento mori. Notice
rises on his pallet, his expression of also an ivory and a bronze crucifix of
humble gratitude contrasts with the Florentine work. The Sula Uupitzllar
kindness and sympathy exhibited to contains a few pictures, but the light
wards him; the light is unfortunately is very bad. The fine Doric and Ionic
bad. Next pass to the high altar, cloisters, with an Italian marble co
which is a superb pile of green mar lonnade, were erected in the Herrera
bles and jaspers; the crucifix is con style by Guillem del Rey; Suchet
cealed by a grand “ Last Supper” by converted them into his magazine or
Ribalta; the head of an Apostle with receiving-house. Observe an antique
a white beard is equal to anything Ceres, which has been bunglingly re
painted by the old Veuetians; the paired. Here are 4 pictures by Joannes
Judas in the foreground is said to be Stradanus—The Ascension, Birth,
the portrait of a shoemaker by whom Supper, and St. John: they are kept
Ribalta was worried; above the Sup covered, except on cl dia de Corpus.
per is a charming “Holy Family,” Next ascend by a noble staircase to
also by Ribalta; the child is painted the library: over the door is a statue
like Titian: in the small recesses on of Hercules. Those books which es
each side of the altar are 2 fine pic caped the modern Omars are put away
tures on panel in the style of Juanes; in handsome Ionic cases, for the ban
in that to the rt. our Saviour is at the quet of worms. Here are some portraits
column, in that to the l. he bears his of Spanish kings, &c. The rectoral
cross. The cupnla is painted in fresco, lodgings are also up-stairs, and contain
with martyrdoms and miracles of San fine pictures: inquire for a portrait of
Vicente, and holy subjects, by Barto Clement VIIl., and for that of the
Valencia. UNIVEP.SlTY——PA INTERS. 375
founder, an intelligent old man with of Santo Tomas, and has some toler
long pointed nose and square beard; it able pictures; but that of the Virgin is
is by Juan Zeriuefia: also for a Christ not by Leonardo, as is here pretended.
in the Garden of Olives, by Ribalta; Since the suppression of the con
and by the same masterasuperb Christ vents a provincial museum has been
at the Column, painted in the style of established in the former convent del
Sebastian del Piombo: observe also a Carmen, where the great Valenciau
Christ bearing the Cross by Morales, school may really be studied and ap
and a noble picture of a Beata in a preciated: it contains 600 or 700 pie
brown dress by Ribalta; the best time tures, of which the vast majority are
to see these interesting objects is of an worthless. The best are placed in a
afternoon, but ladies are not admitted. Sala by themselves. The chief painters
Thus the ungallant priests of the to be observed are Vicente Joanes, the
temple of Hercules at Cadiz warned ofi‘ Spanish Raphael, and head of the Va
female trespassers, coupling them, que lentian school; he was born at Fuente
cochinos! with swine. Sil. ltal. iii. 22. la Higuera, 1523 ob. 1597; he was
Near this Colegio is the Universidad, buried in the Santa Cruz, but his ashes
a fine, large, red building, and much were moved to this Carmen in I842;
frequented by students: the library then Francisco de Rihalta, who is the
is well arranged; that founded by Spanish Domenichino and Sebastian
Bayer in 1785, was burnt by the ‘del Piombo combined: he was born in
French in 181:2, but has been re Castellon de la Plana about 1551, died
placed since from the suppressed con at Valencia, 1628, and is buried 111 the
vents, and now contains some 40,000 San .1urm del Mercado : he was the
volumes. Among them a copy of the painter of San Vicente de Ferrer, 2'. e.
rare Tirante Lo Blane, of which the a local painter of a local subject; just
finest known is in the Grenville library as MUl‘lllO was of the Concepcion, so
of the British Museum, and another worshiped by Sevillians. There is a
in the Sapienza at Rome; it also pos picture, probably by Ribalta, in Mag
sesses some rare bibles, books of chi dalen Chapel, Oxford, although even
valry, and Spanish cinqne-ccntos, and his name has not penetrated into those
some vellum MSS.,' e. g. a Virgil, cloisters, and the picture is ascribed to
Pliny, Livy, and Aristotle, with ex artists with whose works it has not
cellent illuminations, which formerly even a remote resemblance.
belonged to the Convento de Zos Reyes, Another great Valencian, Josef Ri
and escaped Suchet's firebrands by bera (Spagnoletto), was pupil of Ri
having been sent to Mayorca before balta: he was born at Xativa, 1588,
his arrival. Suchet, uneducated, igno and died at Naples, 1656, where he led
rant. and tasteless, only “collected” the Hispano-Neapolitan school. He
cash; in matters of art-plunder, he painted cruel martyr subjects in a
was to Soult what Mummius of old decided Caravaggio style of marked
was to Verres. No bibliophile should shadows and lights (see p. 359). Jacinto
fail visiting the library of Don Vicente Geronimo Espinosa, the best of a family
Salva, which is eminently rich in curi of painters. was born in Cocentaina,
ous, and exclusively Spanish books, the 1600, and was also a disciple of Ribalta:
earliest and rarest. he died at Valencia, 1680, and is buried
Formerly travellers who wished to in San Martin: he imitated the Car
scourge themselves (see San Gines, racci school. Pedro Orreute, the Bas
Madrid), found whips and every ac sano of Spain, and as monotonous and
commodation, after las Oraciones, in multiplied, was born at Monte Alegre
the church of La Congregacion; now about 1560, and died at Toledo, 1644:
this is converted into a college for he principally painted cattle and Ador
oflicers, to whom the mention of these ations of Shepherds: although he was
previous practices is unpleasant. That a mannerist, he coloured his low sub
fine church, built in 1736, by one jects well ; he was the master of Pablo
Tosca, has been given to the clergy Pontons, whose pictures are seldom
“'1'
SECTION VI. I
CATALONIA.
CONTENTS.
The most interesting Routes are 46, and those in the Pyrenees. The Springs and Aulumns
are delicious on the coast; but the mountain districts should only be vlsi ted in Summer. Barce
lona and still more Valencia are excellent winter-quarters for invnlids.
._i¢i-.
Cardona, in August 1240, the angels in game. Solsona, the capital, rises
attending his couch. In spite of the above the Riu Negre. Pop. 2000:
hot weather, his body for 15 days placed in the heart of the hilly coun
afterwards perfumed the whole castle. try, it has long been head-quarters in
A quarrel now arose as to who was to turbulent times, and the scene of
have and keep his precious remains, sundry bush-fightings in the earliest
which was thus settled by King Jaime: struggle. The square old castle, with
He ordered the fragrant corpse to be put its round towers at the angles, on an
on the curate’s blind mule, and to re eminence commands the town. The
main for good wherever the animal Gothic cathedral of the llth century
might depose it. In these times, when was burnt by Macdonald in Oct. 1810.
' the possession of a relic attracted pil The principal portal, finished in 1769,
grims and pious benefactors, such a contained a statue of the Assumption
sure. source of income was always a of the Virgin; and the Capilla tie Niles
bone of contention among the local tra S'1.'1'Zur:l del Claustro was the holiest
clergy; again mules and asses con of the chapels. The episcopal palace
stantly play an important part in Spain, built for Bishop Sala in 1779, by one
being judiciously called in as arbi Francisco Pons, has the facade towards
trators, although it only occurred to the Plaza overdone with pilasters and
the wag Aristophanes to im‘:_1/ine such ornaments. The trafiic of Solsona is
an appeal (Ran. 159), as a ludicrous in iron, and the women, like most in
comparison, m; ¢-ym nurrngtn. Catalonia, are industrious knitters.
The blind mule being_ laden with Leaving Solswm we cross the Salado ;
Don Ramon, proceeded with its bur this brackish trout river falls into the
den, the church bells ringing of their beautiful Segre, whose stream and
own accord as it passed, which Spanish valley is now ascended to U/"gel: rising
bells often do or did (see Velilla). It in France, it flows down the valley of
rested at Portell, the place where he Pmgcerrla‘, under the rocky spurs, to
was not born, and there the body now is. Urgel, and thence by the plains on to
A convent was forthwith founded, and Lérida. At Oliana, on the Segre, in
was much visited by pious females, its hill-girt basin or cucnca, the roads
who constantly returned cured of bar to Urgel, Barcelona, and Lérida branch
renness. Thus Nonat both removed ofi': here is a good bridge, and another
sterility and facilitated parturition. at 0/yqtuid, half-way between Solsona
Benedict XlII., a Catalan, who had no and Urgel: near this the rocky gorge
objection to help a local legend, and narrows, and the river has forced a
thus do a little empeilo or Spanish job, most romantic pass, which is spanned
canonised him in 1414. More ample by 3 alpine bridges—Los tres puentes,
details will be found in his church dels tres Ponts.
authorised biographies, by Pedro Thence to Urgel—the Seo, or bishop
Merino, 4to., Salamanca, and Fr“' G. ric, is a most ancient see, founded in
Fanlo, 4to., Zaragoza, 1618. The 820; it lies below the Pyrenean spur,
saints Celeterio and Hemeterio who lie between the sweet rivers Valira and
in the crypt of Sun Jlllguel, are also Segre, which, distilled from their moun
much relied upon here. tain alembic, unite, the former coming
The sportsman and lover of wild down the Swiss-like valley of Amlorrn,
nature may now push on to the moun of which the bishop of Urgel is en
tains. Take a guide and fill the titled the sovereign prince. The town
alfoijas, as these alpine recesses are is commanded by the citadel on the
rarely visited save by the smuggler. height, Las Horcas, or “Gallows Hill ;”
The Llobregat abounds in trout. Ad its governor beat back the French in
vancing, therefore, we reach Solsona I was
1794,terribly
by whom, in revenge, the city
(the old Setelix), made a bishopric in sacked. The plains be
1593 by Philip II. Towards Urgel low, the granary of Catalonia, are
the plains are fertile in fruit and corn; irrigated by a canal planned by Juan
to the N. the hills and woods abound Soler, This intricate country is
428 norms 47.——-URGE.L T0 moxrwrs. Sect. VI.
always the heart and centre of Catalan Orgafui. It however floated up, and
outbreaks. Here the Royalists took up was buried by peasants at the Coll de
the cause of Ferdinand VII. in 1822; 2V<¢r_</0, the curate Ferrer having re
here Romagosa long held out against turned to Berga to assure the C0nde’s
Mina, who, trained to exterminate the partisans that he had seen him de
French, now tried his hand against livered safely in France-—cosas dc
his countrymen. This Seo again, in Esp'zi1'/1! These classical scenes of
1827, became the head-quarters of a civil contention again, in i838, wit
Carlist insurrection against the same nessed sundry bush-fightings between
Ferdinand VII. because he was getting the Carlist guerillero Tristani and the
too liberal, which the Conde de Espaola regular Christinist general De Meer.
extinguished in a deluge of blood. From Urgel, a central point, many
This adventurer of French origin rose wild and picturesque passes lead over
during the Peninsular war, nobody the Pyrenees into France; the shortest
exactly knowing how; not that he ascends the Segre.
behaved over well, for his misconduct
at Salamanca and Ciudad Rodrigo
saved the French from utter destruc Ronrn 47.—UnonL T0 Monrmls.
tion. Cunning enough afterwards to Puente del Bar . . 2%
make Ferdinand VII. his polar star, he Bellver . . . . . 21} .. 5
served him through fair and foul with Puigcerdai . . . . . 3 .. 8
Llivia . . . . . . . 1 .. 9
the implicit obedience of the old Montluis . . . - . . 3 .. 12
Spaniard; he obeyed to the letter the
king’s private orders, while he treated This charming river and mountain
with contempt those of his ministers. ride seems made for the artist, angler,
During his patron's life he was an and sportsman. _ The Segre runs up to
absolute autocrat in Catalonia, well the Garganta, or gorge enclosed be
fitted by his iron rule to keep down that tween the S.W. tail of the Canigti spine
stiff-necked turbulent province. At and the Carol to the N., which is gene
the king’s death he served Don Carlos, rally called the Cor-regimiento de Paig
his successor, with equal zeal, and then cerdni. The valley of Cerdaaia, Cere
upheld the very cause which a few tania, is bounded S. by Berga and N. by
years before he had put down; but France. Like many of these limitrophe
mas pesu el Rey que la sangre, He him Pyrenean districts it became inde
self was thus murdered at last. His pendent soon after the Moorish invasion
head-quarters were at Urge], while in 731. After; long struggles against
those of the provincial Junta were near its neighbour the county of Cerdafia
Berga, 10 L. SE. Oct. 2!‘, l839, he merged in 1196 with Barcelona, and
quitted Bcrga to attend this Junta at was divided by the peace of the Pyre
Avia, distant 1 L., where he was well nees in 1669, when France obtained a
received by his own aide-de-camp, portion, pushing down her territory on
Brigadier Mariano Orteu, and by the the S. or Spanish slope of the moun
curate Ferrer, who, at a given signal, tains, just as the Spaniards retain the
shot him with a pistol. The wounded N. slope in the Valle da Aran, and both
man was then bound on a mule and in defiance of geographical inclinations.
dragged about until Nov. l,when they Bellver—Pulcher Visus—as its name
took ‘him towards the frontier, telling implies, a place of beautiful Swiss-like
him that he was going to be set free views, with some 650 inhabitants, is
“en su puis,” in his own country, in built on a scarped hill over the Segre,
France; then his former friend, Orteu, with an old ruined castle, a collegiate
came up and shot him, the Conde ex church, and a custom-house. Puigcerdzi
claiming, “ Ah Mariano !" The body is the chief town, the head of Spanish
having been sportively stabbed by the Cerdafia (pop. i900), built in the valley,
knives of the rest of the company, and where the Raur and Arabti unite with
tied with stones, was thrown into the the Segre: the trout are fine, and the
Segre, over the Pzwnte de Espia, near shooting wild and excellent, especially
Catalozzia. ROUTE 48.——URGEL T0 TA'RASCO.\' 429
the (lzbra Montaraz, or Bouquetin. It of independence between France and
has a Culegiata and a charming walk, Spain. Geographically considered, the
and is a frontier garrison town, and district ought to belong entirely to
has witnessed the horrors of border France, to which it is subject in civil
warfare. Llivia — Julia Libica —- al matters, being in spirituals under the
though within the French boundary, is jurisdiction of the Bishop of Urgel, a
a Spanish town. Here Santiago first sort of Prince Bishop in a phantom
preached the Gospel to the Jews of palatinate, and nominal republic. The
Spain. Pop. under 1000. It is pret species of President is called the Veguer.
tily situated under its ruined castle, Full particulars will be found in Madoz
and near the source of the Segre, with (i. 288), as also of the working of
a handsome Parroquia. Llicia was France and Spain in their tenancy in
once an episcopal town, but the cathe common. The whole republic may be
dral was entirely destroyed in 732 by some 37 m. in extent by 30 \vide, E.
the Moors. Zllontluis, Mont Louis, is and W.: the Pop. about 5000, either
the French frontier citadel, built on a pastoral peasants, smugglers, or rude
conical hill by Vauban in 1684, in forgers of iron, who look in this pic
order to command the narrow but turesque country like devils in para
easy and much-frequented pass (see dise.
Handbook for France). At Planes, The chief town was originally at San
near Montluis, "is a church, said to be Julmn, where a stone cross marks the
Moorish, earlier than Charlemagne. site; the present one stands with a
and certainly not later than the 10th good bridge on the Ifulir-11, and the town
centy. The second and central pass of Andorra sufiered much during the
is by the Valle dc Andorra. civil wars both from hostile attack and
suspension of commerce, To the rt.
are the heights, and the old Moorish
castle of Carol, a name derived from
Rooms 48.—URo1iL TO Tmsscorr. Carolus, Charlemagne. The Puerto is
SanJulian . . . . . 3 carried over the Col de Puiq Marius,
Andorra . . . . . . 3 .. 6 thence to Hospitalet (see Handbook
Soldeu. - . .‘ . . .3 .. 9 for France, ll. 97). Those who wish
Hospitalet . . . 3 .. 12
Tarascon - . . - 6 .. 18 just to go into France will find Sailin
gowse one of the best of the mountain
This, a bridle-road to Soldeu, is after villages; the wild rocky scenery to
wards carriageable. The pastoral and the hamlets Porta and Poste is quite
picturesque valley of Amiorrrl, a jumble Salvator-Rosa-like.
of hills, enclosed on all sides by the The varied excursions. from Sun
Pyrenean spurs, extends about 7 L. Julian are _full of alpine charms.
long by 6 broad, and is bounded by Escaldos is an irregular picturesque
the French and Spanish ridges, by hamlet, with a fine trout-stream, a
Puigcerdti to the S. and E., by the water-power to the rude iron forges;
Comté de Foix (depart. de l’Ariege) the ore is brought from Carol. The
to the N.,‘and by the Corregimiento hills around the rich alluvial basin of
of Talaru to the W. Watered by the Andorra abound in pine-forests, which
Balira, Ordino, and Os, it is one of the afford fuel; nothing can be prettier
wildest districts of the Spanish Pyre than the distant views of the villages,
nees, abounding in timber, which is embosomed in Woods: at Mont Melons
floated down the Balira and Segre to are three lakes, enclosed by lofty and
Tortosa. _ The name Andorra is derived fantastic walls of rock. Leaving Es
from the Arabic Aldarra, “a place caldos, proceed up the valley of Emb*1
thick with trees,” among which is lire, either to Canillo, or more circuit
found the Cabru Jllontrwaz, with bears, ously by the Val de Arenscl, entered by
boars, and wolves. This valley, ceded a beautiful gorge, and then pass by
in 819, by Louis le Débonnaire, to the the narrow defile to Urdino and Ariege.
Bishop Sisebuto, has maintained a sort I A broken ridge separates Urdino and
480 ROUTES 49, 50.—URGEL TO BONAIGUA AND canon. Sect. VI.
Canillo, where is a curious old church. bregat. Izaak Walton himself could
Thence on by miserable Soldeu, beyond not wish for a prettier district than
which is the frontier line, and by Port this whole ride to Pobla de Lillct, a
de Framiquel, a wild region of Flora, place on the Llobregat of some 1200
to Ax, in the sweet valley of the souls, which the angler may make his
Ariege, in France. The traveller will quarters. The peasants are hard
take a local guide, and attend to the working and simple, and the women,
provend. as all over Catalonia, indefatigable
knitters. The Llobregat flows through
the hamlet; near it is a round temple
dedicated to San Miguel, said to be one
ROUTE 4i9.—UneEL TO Bozumnn. of the 8th centy. The angler may
Castelbé . . . . . 2 hence, skirting the hills, visit the river
Rcmandrin . . . . . 2 .. 4 Fresné, or Freser, at Ribns; and then
Llaborsl . . . . . . 3 .. 7 fish in the Ter to C'a1nprod0'n, a frontier
Tirvia . . . . . . 1 .. 8 town of 500 Inhab., sacked by the
Esterri . . . - . . - 3 .. 11
Valencia . . . . . - {~ .. 1111 French in 1639, and again Oct. 5, 1793.
Mescn de Bonaigua . . . 11; .. 13 Hence the traveller may cross the
Puerta into France to Pratz de Mollo,
This is the western route by the and proceed up the valley of the
Pucrio de Arun. Ascending the pretty Tech, 8 m. to Arles. Now the Canigii,
Ordino is C"¢stellb0', with 250 inhabit rising almost isolated from the Pyre
ants. Remand/‘in is a poor place in the nean chain, spreads forth its spurs
heart Of the hills. At Llaborsi, a hamlet like a fan, and soars a real mountain
of iron-workers, is a good bridge over 9141 feet above the plains of Roussil
the Noguera Pallaresa, which here is lon; the ascent is not diflicult. From
joined by the Cardos. Tiruia is a better Arles, after reaching the top, whence
village, with 400 Inhab. Ester-ri, like the views over sea, river, mountain,
all these places, is a mountain dwell and plain are superb, descend and
ing of hard-working peasants. Va sleep either at the forge ofValmania or
lencia has nothing in common with. the even at Prades. Leaving Arles you
voluptuous city on the sunny coasts: pass by the old watch-tower of Bateres,
it is cold and cheerless, and constantly which looks over the valleys of the
covered with snow, whence the name Tech and Tet; there breakfast; then
Val (le Nea. lts Pile/-to is frequently proceed through pine-woods and rho
impassable. From thence we descend dodendrons to the summit (see Hand
into the Valle de Amn (see Index). book for France).
The whole of this route is savage Those who continue in Spain may
and alpine, and devoid of accommoda descend the Llera from CIl77Lp7‘0(lO7l,
tions. which falls into the Fluvia below Cus
tellfulit. Ripoll (Pop. some 950) was
nearly destroyed in the civil wars,
Ronrn 50.——URGEL TO GERONA. which much injured the magnificent
Benedictine convent built in the l0th
Fornols . . . . . .21 centy. by the Abbot Oliva, and an
Juxent . . . . . . It .. 4
Bagd . . . . . . . 4 .. 8 Escorial from the 9th to the 12th centys.
. Lillet. . . . . . . 2+ .. 101} Here rest the early counts from lVi/frezl
Candebancl . . . . . 24- .. 13
el Velloso, Mir, Suiié, Sinofredo, Borrel
ltipoll . . - . . . 2 -. I5
Vulfogona . - . - II., Ramon de Berenguer, &c.; the
. I1} .. 16¢}
Olot . . . . . . particulars of the tombs are detailed
. 2'} .. I9
Mieras . . . . . . 2} .. 211]
in Yepes (iv. 218), there is talk of pre
Bniinlas . . . . . . 2} .. '24
serving them in a Museo : the cloister
Gerona . 2 .. 26
is very curious, especially the roma
The country is wild and broken to nesque capitals. Below the town the
Fornols and Bagzi, which is situated on Fresné, or Fraser, runs into the Ter;
the Bascarefi, a tributary of the Llo thus Ripoll may well be called Rivis
Catalonia. ROUTE 5l.—BARCELOXA T0 rsnrifisx. 431
Pollcns. The valley is charming: the with some hooks in the cloister library.
Ter in its course to Viquc flows near Observe singular pillars and capitals,
Rods. and Amer, through some narrow the work of Berengario Portell, of
and very picturesque rocks; but into Gerona, 1325. Vich was repeatedly
what lovely and secluded secrets of sacked by the French, and near it,
nature does not trout-fishing conduct Feb. 20, 1810, Souham, by one dashing
us! This stream is apt to be either French charge, put 14,000 Spaniards
too low or too full of snow-water. to instant flight, their General E.
Basalt-built Olut is a manufacturing O'Donnell leading the way to the
town of 9000 souls, placed between mountain hides.
the Fluvia and the volcanic hill Mont Ilurcelmm is 12% L. distant from
sacopa, which is of great geological Vich by Tlnw, 11} L., which is joined
interest. Other craters exist on the to CoIlus1»in'r, and has on its hill a
Mont Olivet and el Puig do Ia Garrinada ruined castle, and an ancient church,
to the N.E., at Bosch de Tosca, and a founded in 888. Celtic!//!.s, or Sam;
league distant at Santa Mzrgaritu de la Columlz dc ‘entail/rs, I L., is said to
Cot ; as the whole district is volcanic, have been so called from the Goth
the intermediate plains, Pia‘ Sacot and C/u‘nti'ln, who here built a strong for
dc la Daresrz, should be explored. The tress,n0w a ruin; the place, like Aiyuu
Sopladorcs, under the hill Batét, are cool Fred/I, 1 L., is built on the Congest.
currents which blow out of the porous Thence 2 L. to La (Iarrign; 2 more to
lava, and used by the natives as refri Grunollcrs, Pop. 2200, near the rivers
geratories. Besos and Congest; observe on the
Six L. from Ripoll and 6,} from Olot plum the cobcl-tizn, supported by pillars;
is Viv]/1e, Vich, Ausona, a CiIld:ld and 2 L. off in the pine-clad hills is
the capital of its temperate and fertile C0dinas,with its pr/ioncs, and petrifying
hill-girt plain : ancient Ausona, accord cascade: hence to Moneml 1 3 L.,under
ing to native annalists, was founded by its hill, which is separated from Ifemrch
Anso, son of Briga, grandson of Noah. by the Besos; the ferruginous baths
The modern name Vich is a corruption are much frequented: here the Gerona
of Vicus, a Roman town razed by the high road is entered, and 2 L. more
Moors and rebuilt in 798. Many Roman lead to Barcelona. 1/4/Still/‘it’/L, on the
antiquities have been from time to high road to France, lies 7 L. S. from
time discovered and neglected; some Vich: the cold Monseny ridge is
inscriptions are preserved in the Esp. crossed near Arbusius, where, on the
Sa_r]., xxviii., which treats of this dio hill San Sagismundo, the fine amethysts
cese. The city is placed in the centre are found which decorate Catalan ear
of its district, on a slope; the environs rings; the shooting here is excellent.
produce corn and fruit, and a bad At Olot the road branches ofi to Ge
wine: pop. about l0,000, partly mann rona, 7 L., by Mieras, and also to
facturing and agricultural; their sau Figueras by Besalii. "
sages are excellent, especially the langu
nizas. The irregular town branches
Roors 51.—BARCELONA 1'0
out like a spider’s web from a centre
PERPINAN.
group; it has a pleasant rambla and
an arcaded plaza, and a prison in the Moncada . . - - . . 2
Montmalé . . . . . 2 4
ancient tower of Moncada of the 10th Llinaa . . '. . . . 2 6
centy. The see, a bishopric restored San Celoni - . . . - 3 .. 9
in 880, in 970 was raised by John XIII. Hostalrich . . - . . 2i .. ll}
to be the metropolitan of Catalonia; Mallorquinas . . . . 2 .. 13}
Gerona . . . . . . 4 .. 1711
this dignity reverted to Tarragona in Bascara . . . . . 4 .. 211}
the llth centy., after its reconquest LaJunquera . . . . 3 .. 24}
from the Moors. The cathedral, re Al Boulou . . . . . 3 .. 27}
Perpifian . . . . . . 4 . 31%“
built in l038 by the Bishop Oliva, has
been modernised; it contains some bad This, the upper road, is by no means
pictures and a fine Cnstodia, 14l3, so pleasant as that which runs by the
432 ROUTE 52.—BARCELONA TO GERONAI ' Sect. vr.
coast, Rte. 42. The country to Ge Britannicus, for no where previously
rona, by both roads, is densely peopled, did carts stick in deeper ruts than in
and the manufacturing hive is in per commercial Catalonia; nature, how- '
fect contrast with the silent, lifeless ever, was bountiful enough, and this
Castiles and central provinces; we coast-line is truly delightful —a con
seem positively to be in another planet. stant interchange of hill and plain,
This corner of the Peninsula has from with the blue sea on one side and the
time immemorial been exposed to the rich maritime strip on the other, a
invader, who, whether Celt, Gaul, sunny scene, where the aloe hedges the
Roman, Goth, or French, have ravaged garden farms of orange and lemon with
it in their turns: under the reign of impenetrable palisade ; the cottages are
terror of Duhesme cl cruel and Au neat and clean. There is little here of
gereau, the air was poisoned by the Castilian poverty or idleness: on all
putrefying bodies of peasants, executed sides the women are knitting, the la
without even the form of a trial (To bourers delving, aud the fishermen
reno, xi.). The road is carried under trimming their picturesque craft. Oc-'
the cold Monseny range, amid a wild cupation renders all happy, while in
pine-clad broken country ; on the dustry enriches, and these charming
heights of Llinas, Vives and Reding districts continue to be what they were
ventured, Dec. 16, 1808, to oppose St. of old described by ‘Fest. Avienus (Or.
C r, who was advancing on Barcelona, Mar. 520), Sedes amcenae ditium.
a ter the capture of Rosas, which Vives Badalona, Bethulonia, on the Besos,
had not even attempted to prevent. near the sea, contains about 5000 ma
The Spaniards were completely routed, nufucturing, busy, and amphibious
Vives running away on foot, Reding on souls. The ancient purroquia is built
horseback; and yet, in this hilly broken on Roman foundations, but few anti
country, by a proper guerrillero and de quities found here have been ever pre-
fensive warfare, the French, driven to served. The coastis charming, dotted
great straits, might have easily been about with pines, and sweet groves
cut olf in detail. ten-anted by nightingale-s, and filled
HOSTALRICH, once the most impor with fruit and corn, with the sweet
tant fortress on this high road, was blue sea gladdening the eye and tem
taken by the French in 1694, when the pering the summer heats. JlIatar6—Il
town was sacked, and the fortifica luro (Inns, Posrzcl/gde las Dilige1wias—
tions ruined, repaired afterwards, in Meson de la Fuel-te)-rises on the sea,
Feb. 1810 they were held by Julian de surrounded on the land side by ver
Estrada for 4 months against Auge durous gardens. The hermitage S.
reau, the garrison at last cutting out Muteu and the Moorish tower Ban-iach
its way, and getting safely to Vich: on their heights form landmarks for
Augereau vented his spite by tortur ships. Elevated to the rank of a
in -and burning alive many of the left ciudad since 1701, it contains 13,000
be ind (Schep. i. 256). busy, industrious souls, and is increas
ing. The port is capable of much
improvement. The town, of an irre
gular shape, has two good plazas, a
well-managed hospital, and a fine spa
Rovra 52.—BARCELONA T0 G-EROXA. cious purroquia, with 6 pictures by Vi
Badalona. . . . . . 2 ladomat, in the Capilla de los Dolores;
Mataré . . . . . . 3 .. 6 5 represent the Saviour bearing the
St. Pol . . . . . 2i‘ -. 71‘
Tordera . . . . . . 3 .. 104
Cross, in different phases of agony;
Granota . . . . . the Santa Veronica and Virgin, on blue
. 21- .. 13
Gerona . and white drapery, is worthy of Mu
. 211- .. 15%
rillo. The oldest church is Sun Miguel
A railroad from Barcelona to M<It(lr6, de Mum, whence some derive the city’s
some m., is the first ever laid down name, and explain the armorial bear
in Spam, thanks to the aid of Hercules ings, or 4 bars gulcs, a hand holding
Catalonia. xwurs 52.—cr.noxA. 433
a sprig, Jfatn, with the word I-*0‘. The to be the first town in which Santiago
chief street is I/'t Rieru (the river, and St. Paul rested when they came to
Rambla) ; the well watered-town has a Spain; which neither did. While in
tortuous old, and a more regular new, the possession of the Moors, and placed
quarter: in the former the better between France and Spain, like other
classes reside, while the operatives and limitrophe districts, it sided alternately
sailors people the latter. The marine with each, and generally with the
suburb is connected with the upper by former. It was taken in 785 by Charle
las Escaleras. The principal approaches, magne, the “ heavens raining blood, and
both from Barcelona and Gerona, are angels appearing with crosses” (Esp.
handsome streets. Mataro has at last .S'¢q/., xliii. 74). The Moors regained and
recovered the terrible sacking by Du sacked it in 795. It was soon recovered
hesme, June 17, 1808 ; he was quartered by its “ Counts,” and then, passing to
for 2 months here, and received as an Aiagon, gave the title of Prince to the
ally and a guest. On quitting he re king's eldest son. Of the Moorish
paid the hospitality by bloodshed and period there remains an elegant bath
pillage. Southey (viii.) and Toreno in the Capuchin convent,a light pavilion
(iv.) give the details. Duhesme pur rising from an octangular stylobate.
sued his road to Gerona, “ a red trail Guronn, a cimlad, well-built and
of fire and blood marking his progress” massy, Pop. about 8000, is the
(Schep. iii. 227). This man, known capital of its district, the see of a
here as El Cruel, was sent to his account bishop, a plaza de (U771/(S. It lies under
at Gemappe, while skulkin g away after the fortified Montjuich hill, is of a tri
VVaterloo. angular form, with streets narrow but
At Cutilla the road turns inland, clean, and has 3 plazfls .- the Mercadel,
and the country becomes more broken or suburb, parted oil‘ by the Ona, is
very ancient. The city is much dila
and less cultivated. Gcrona rises above
the Ter, exposed indeed to the north pidated from the French siege and
winds, but overlooking a sunny, well bombarding; it bears for arms, or, the
irrigated plain ; placed by its military 4 Catalan bars gules, and an escutcheon
position in the very jaws of every in of waves azure. The see was founded
vader, at no period has it escaped in 786 by Charlemagne. The early
sieges, nor have the fierce natives cathedral was pulled down and rebuilt
shunned the encounter. Their wild in 1316; in 1416 a dispute arose whether
district has always been the lair of the the bold plan by Guillermo Boffy of
bold bandit and Gum-rz'l!e1*0, unchanged one nave should be changed into 8: a
since the days of Festus Avienus (Or. juryof 12 architects was summoncd,who
Mar. 528) : decided on the single plan. Cean. Ber.
" Post Imliyetcs asperi se proferunt, (Arch. i. 92, 261) has printed all the
Gens ista dura, gens ferox venatibus deliberations, which evince the serious
Lustrisque inherens." consideration with which these mighty
Ferocity is indeed inherent; but with works of old were reared. The ap
the vices they have the rude, hardy proach is magnificent, and, as at Tarra
virtues of uncivilized mountaineers. gona, a superb flight of 86 steps, raised
Gerom, Gerunda, is of most remote in 1607 by Bishop Zuazo, leads up to
antiquity : the diligence inn is the best. the facade, which is in the Grseco
Some derive the name from Geryon, Romano style, rising in tiers, order
who kept oxen near Cadiz, exactly the above order, and terminated with an
most distant, and most unlikely point: oval rose-window : from the square
others contend for the Celtic (Mr, near, belfry the panorama is beautiful. Be
and Ond, a confluence ; and it is placed fore entering, look at the Puerta dc los
near the junction of the Ter and the Apostoles and the terra-cotta statues of
Ona. These matters are discussed in the 1458. The interior, with its semi
‘ Rcsmncn dc las Gr-cmdczas,’ Juan Gasper circular absis, is simple and grandiose.
Roig y Yalpi, fol. Barcelona, 1678, and The Sillcria del Coro is of the early part
in the Esp. Sag.xliii. iv.v. Gerona boasts of the 16th century: observe the epis
Spain.-—I. U
434 norm-: 52.——GERONA—-THE runs. Sect. VI.
copal throne. The isolated altar be white, others that they were tri-co
longed to the older church; observe loured, blue, green, and red, while
the frontal, the paintings, and some Father Roig is positive that they were
early enamelled figures, 4.1). 1038, and “ half green, half blue, with a red
a noble retablo and pillared tabernacle stripe down their backs." Be this as
by Pedro Benes. A fine crozier and a it may, they destroyed no less than
custodia escaped from the mass of 24,000 horses and 40,000 Frenchmen;
sacred plate that was carried off by the nay, the king himself sickened and
invaders. Observe the sepulchres of died at Perpifian, Oct. 5, 1285. Hence
Ramon Berenguer II. ( Cup. do Estopa), the proverb “ Las Moscas de Sun Nar
and his wife Ermesendis, ob. 1058, and ciso.” These gad-flies re~appeared Sept.
that of Bishop Anglesola, and in the 24, 1653, and compelled the French,
chapel of San Pablo that of Bernardo under La Mothe-Houdaincourt, to re
de Pavo. Next visit the Sala C'apitular, tire once more, having then stung to
and the cloisters with quaint capitals death, according to Padre Roig, no
like those of Vich and Ripoll, and exe less than 20,000 horses. Again, May
cuted by Berengario Portell, 1325. In 24, 1684, an enormous single parti
the Galilea and the‘ C'ementerio de los coloured fly appeared miraculously on
1\’e_<]ros are some very ancient lapidary the image of the saint, and the French
inscriptions. In the archives in the army, under Bellfonds, either died or
cloister are some early MSS. and a ran away. As this miracle was au
Bible, written in 1374 by Bernardin thenticated by Isidro Vila, the town
Mutina for Charles V. of France, but clerk, Innocent XI. decreed a national
ascribed here to Charlemagne. thanksgiving to Narciso, as “ the Sa
The Colegiata dc San Feliu is also ap viour of Spain ;” on the 29th of every
proached by a staircase between two October is still a first-rate fair and holi
polygonal towers; from the earliest day. The local Junta in 1808 declared
times this church was half a fortress. this Hercules Muscarius, this A1ap.vu§,
The grand relics are the head of San this Baalzebub, to be their captain-'
Feliu and the body of San Narciso, who general; and on his tomb was laid the
was Bishop of Gerona from 304 to 307. staff of command, in order that this
For their lives and deeds consult Padre glorioso e mvicto mwrtir as especialisimo
Roig and Ribad. iii. 311. San Narciso, protector 3/ gene:-ala'sz'nt0, might infuse
with his deacon Feliu (Felix), when laces y valor, intelligence and courage,
at Augsburgh, put up by mischance at into mortal Spanish generals. The
a “ Burdell,” and there wrought his whole decree was republished in 1832 l
first miracle, b converting Afra his in the Esp. Sag. xlv. 90, with the
hostess, and 3 o her ‘frail ladies, Digna, names of the 32 deputies who signed
Eumenia, and Eutropia, “ worthy, it, headed by the identical Jaime Creux
well behaved, and well speaking ” who, as the representative of Catalonia,
damsels, who afterwards swelled the opposed the giving command to the
list of Mrs. Jameson’s “ Bienheureuses Duke of Wellington, just when the
Pc‘cheresses.” Killed on his return to Cortes of Cadiz preferred Sta. Theresa ;
Spain by the Gentiles while saying but these Spanish flies are not Cosas dc
mass, the site where his body lay was Espaila alone. Such things and Brevets
revealed by angels to Charlemagne, are quite Peninsular. So San Antonio
and he became the tutelar of Ger-om, was nominated the generalissimo (the
which from its frontier situation al San Narciso) of the Lusitaniaus. Al
ways needed one‘ much. Thus, when though he never served while alive, he
Philip le Hardi, anxious to avenge the was called into active employment
Sicilian- Vespers, invaded Catalonia, when dead, and was enrolled in 1688 as
and began plundering the silver on a private—the Virgin being his surety
the saint’s tomb, there forthwith issued that he would not desert; in I780 he
from the body a plague of flies: the was made a general officer, and Junot,
clerical authorities differ as to their in 1807, received his pay with the re
colour, some afiirming that they were gularity of a true believer (Foy, ii.
Catalonia. ROUTE 52, 53.-canon. 435
19). This Creux, afterwards arch famine and disease effected what force
bishop of Tarragona, headed the Car of arms could not. Alvarez became
list and servile party, and died in delirious, and with him Gerona fell;
1825. for Samaniego, his traitorous succes
Gcron/t, in the War of the Succes sor, forthwith capitulated, and the
sion, made a desperate resistance with place fell December 12, 1809. The
2000 men against 19,000 troops of defence lasted 7 months and 5 days,
Philip V., who abolished its university against 7 open breaches. The French
and all its liberties. In June 1808, expended 60,000 balls and 20,000
Gerona, garrisoned with 300 men of the bombs, and lost more than 15,000 men.
Ulster regiment, under O’Daly, beat off Augereau broke every stipulation, and
Duhesme, El C:-rwl, with some 6000 insulted the invalid Alvarez, instead of
men : he returned with fresh forces in honouring a brave opponent, confining
July, boasting that he would arrive the him in a solitary dungeon, where he
24th, attack the 25th, take it the 26th, was soon “ found dead,” say the French
and rase it on the 27th; but he was —“ poisoned,” says Toreno (x. Ap. 3);
bafiled and beaten off again by that and Southey compares his fate to that
marine gadfly Lord Cochrane. Not of Wright and Pichegru. He lies buried
daring to go near the sea, Duhesme in San F eliu in a simple sarcophagus.
retreated, Aug. 16, by the hills, pur This gallant but unavailing defence,
sued by Caldagues, and lost his cannon, like that of Zaragoza and Cuidad
baggage, and reputation. At that Rodrigo, redeems the scandalous sur
critical moment 10,000 English troops renders of Badajoz, Tortosa, &c., by
were ordered from Sicily, and, had they the traitors and “ children in the art
landed, Buonaparte could never have of war" of the Blake, lmaz, and Alache
wofi Catalonia. Unfoitunately the loss breed.
of the island of Capri by Sir Hudson For the siege of Gerona consult
Lowe enabled the French to threaten ‘ Memorias,’ J . A. Nieto y Samaniego,
the potterer Sir John Murray, and the Tarragona, 1810, and Madoz, viii. 378.
troops did not sail. The Catalans were La Ifispal lies 5 L. to the l. of Ge
thus left unassisted, and thereby this rona. Here, in September 1810, Henry
province and Valencia were lost. The O’Donnell, aided by English tars, took
English only interfered on this coast the ever unlucky blunderer Schwartz
when too late, and then were le‘d by prisoner with 1200 men.
bunglers only to do worsethan nothing. From Gerona there is a bridle-road
(See Biar, Ordal, Tarragona, &c.) to the l. into France.
Gerona was again besieged in May, The rugged alpine frontier of the
1809, by the French with 35,000 men, Pyrenees is indeed threaded by infinite
under Verdier, St. Cyr, and Augereau. tracks and passes made by the wild
The governor Mariano Alvarez, left goats and smugglers; it will always
by the Junta in want of everything, be prudent to take a local guide and
even of ammunition, was brave and a. contrubandista if possible: attend also
skilful, and well seconded by some to the provend. The large map of
English volunteers under the gallant the Pyrenees by Arrowsmith is useful.
Col. Marshall, who took the lead and
was killed in the breaches: Pearson, Roma 53.—Gnno1<a T0 S'1‘.LAUBEl\"1‘.
Nash, and Candy also distinguished
B6-iiolas .
themselves. The women of Gerona Besalii . . J . - . 2 . 4
also enrolled themselves into a com Entreperas . . . . 3 . 7
pany, dedicated to Santa Barbara, the Basagoda . . . . . 21} . 91'
patroness of Spanish artillery. The St. Laurent . . . 1'1‘ . 11
enemy bombarded the city—the re Turning to the rt. from Besahi the
sistance was most dogged—general road ascends the Llera, on which En
after general failed, and the siege be trcperas is placed. Basagodu commu
came so unpopular that Lechi, Verdier, nicates with Camprodon by the Coll
and others took French leave. At last de Fac, and is the last town in Spain.
U 2
436 ROUTE 5-’.l:.—FERDINAND VII .—FIGUEI‘tAS. Sect. VI.
on political subjects. The Duke was
ROUTE 54.—Gnno1u 'ro Pan1>1S'A.\'. very nearly being obliged to go and
lodge at his brother’s house, when a
Bascara ' . - . - . . 4
I~‘igu_eras . . . . . . 3 .. 7 hint was given by Gen. O’Lawlor to
A 1aJunquera - . . . 3 .. IO the Duque de San Carlos, and a proper
Al Boulou . . . . . . 3 . . 13 residence was provided; nor did the
Perpiiian . . . . . . 4 . 17
king, although the Duke would have
On leaving Gerom the Flnvia is liked it, ever offer to give him a per
crossed by a high and narrow bridge. manent house there in his quality of
On these banks Ferdinand VII., tra grandee. The Duke saw at once how
velling under the title of Conde de things were going on, and passing
Barcelona, was restored to Spain, March through Tolosa on his return, told
24, 1814, by Buonaparte, whose pride Gen. Giron, “ c’est une affaire perdue,”
had too long obscured his military and he was right.
judgment. Had he taken that step Figueras, Ficaris, Fonda del C0m.erc2'o,
sooner Ferdinand would have been a straggling place, rises in its rich pine
another apple of discord to the English, dotted plain of olives and rice; all are
against whom the cortes and priests busy here, the men with spades, the
were plotting; again, by withdrawing women with the needle,while nightin
Suchet’s army, Buonaparte would have gales cheer their work. Pop. about
had greater means to resist the vic 8000. Here the traveller should ex
torious Duke When invading France; change his Spanish money for French,
but Spain was invaded by perfidy and or his French for Spanish, as the case
bad policy, and poetical justice re may be, remembering always that five
quired that it should be his pit. Fer franc pieces, or the pillared duro, are
dinand came back attended by his the safest coins to take. Those who
tutor, Escoiquiz, who had lured him now enter Spain for the ~first time
in 1808 into the Bayonne trap. Pe should read our preliminary remarks
dant and pupil both returned as on money, passports, sketching, cos
Spanish as they had gone forth—no tume, &c., and may remember that Bar
thing learnt, nothing forgotten. The celona is a capital place for a Spanish
Duke, however, thought better of the outfit. In the parish church Philip
king than of his ministers. He also V., November 3, 1701, was married to
foresaw the termination of the im Maria Luisa of Savoy. The glory of
practicable cortes and constitution, Fiqueras and her shame is the superb
and (Desp. Sept. 5, 1813), felt certain citadel, which is called San Fernando,
“ that if Ferdinand should return he having been built by Ferdinand VI.
would overturn the whole fabric, if he Pentagonal, rock hewn, and planned
has any spiritz” and as he did, nothing on the principles of Vauban, of truly
loth, and urged on by the nation, Roman magnificence and solidity, as
which, sick of petty tyrants, fled from far as art can go, it ought to be im
liberales and democrats to the throne. pregnable. The arsenals, magazines,
Ferdinand was well disposed, and &c., are capable of containing ample
meant and wished to have acted garrison stores, &c., all usually found
fairly, but it was impossible, as his “wanting in the critical moment."
party was too strong for him, and In the prison, Alvarez, the hero of
clamoured for Iberian Venganza. He Gerona, was “found dead,” although
fell also into the worst hands, and Augereau held no coroner's inquest on
especially Freire and Ballesteros, his the body. Gen. Castafios marked the
war ministers, who prejudiced him spot by an inscription. The fortress,
against the English, and especially thus placed as a central point of com
against the Duke, falsely stating that munication, is the key of the frontier,
he patronised a liberal newspaper called or oughtto be; for well did Mr. Towns
El Qonciso. Thus, when the Duke hend observe, in 1786, while it was
arrived at Madrid, Ferd.VII., although in progress of building, “When the
outwardly very civil, never touched moment of trial comes, the whole will
Catalonia. ROUTE 54.—-GERONA TO PERPIEAN. 437
depend on the weakness or treachery i brave Spaniards. Rovira was rewarded
of a commander, and, instead of ‘, by prcferment in thecathedra1ofVich,
being a defence to the country, it‘ a common practice at that period.
may afford a lodgment to the enemy ;” ‘, Figuc/vrs, thus taken by the theolo
and his prophetic apprehensions ! gian, was as quickly lost by the regular
proved too well founded. The general, the blunderer Campoverde,
miserable governor, one Andre Tor who, while ereeping—soc0rros dc Es
res, surrendered, November 28, 1794, pum— to its tardy re-supply of troops
at the first summons of the republi and provisions, was met, May 3, by
can Gen. Perignon, who, having General Baraguay d'Hilliers, who, with
under 15,000 men, could scarcely be some -£000 men, by one dashing cavalry
lieve their success, or the astound charge, completely routed 10,000 Spa
ing cowardice of a garrison which had niards, killing 900, and taking 1500
every means of resisting even 60,000 prisoners.
men for at least six months. Fzijuerus, left to itself, besieged and
Again, March 18, 1808, this citadel bombarded by 13,000 Frenchmen, was
was gained at once by Buonaparte, gallantlyi defended by the governor,
whose agent, Duhesme, pretending Martinez, who, after nearly 5 months’
to be the ally of Charles IV., pre resistance, when all food and am
vailed on the governor, one Prats, to munition failed, capitulated (Aug.
confide in his /umour, and to impri 16) on honourable terms, all of which
son therein 200 unruly conscripts; were violated by Macdonald. After
instead of whom he sent his picked sundry executions the brave garrison
soldiers in disguise, who immediately was marched half-naked to the hulks
overpowered the Spanish garrison, of Brest and Rochefort, and there com
ineflicient in numbers, and unpro-i pelled by Buonaparte to work like con
vided with the commonest means victs. (Southey, Chr. 38). The lo
for defence: so true is the Spanish cality is one of rivers and hills, most
remark-—this fine citadel always be of which are crowned with old frontier
longs to us in the time of peace, and towers and hermitages. The inhabi
to the French in time of war. It is in tants, Pyrenean highlanders, are fond
fact a flziblessc not a fortress, an ex of their local dances, the contrapas and
pence to be kept up in peace, and in sardana, as of fives, la pclota. The
war a stronghold for the enemy. The flannel mantilla of the women, la
position itself is ill chosen, from the capucka, and the stick, garrot, of the
constant fevers which decimate the males, are remarkable.
garrison: no canal has yet been made Leaving Figueras, the road, after pass
to Rosas, by which these pestilential ing the Llobregat, reaches La Junqucra,
districts might easily be drained. in its reed_z/ plain or gzzrgzzzzta between
Strong as it is, yet Fz'_(/ucras was re the hills. From the quantity of esparto
captured in one hour, April 10, 1811, which grows here, the site was called
by Rovira, a doctor in theology! who, by the ancients Campus Juncarius, and
having friends in the town, had long also “the plain of Marathon,” from
wished to attempt its surprise, but was itapaéa/v,arope (Strabo, iii. 2-10). Here
thwarted by the blundering regular is the Spanish aduana.
generals, who laughed at the idea as a Now we ascend the mountain barrier
Quixotism, a Rocirada: the doctor, with of the Pyrenees, and passing, by rough
some peasants, succeeded from sheer and picturesque stages, mid rocks and
boldness of conception and execution. cork trees, over the (‘oi de Pcrtiis, de
The careless French governor, Guyot, scend to El Boulou. The height looks
was condemned to death for form’s over Spain and France, which the
sake, and a theatrical scene was got Rubicon Tech separates. To the 1.
up, when Buonaparte pardoned him. above the village Perttis, is the pictur
All this French farce is hepraised by esque fort of Bellegarde, raised in
1679 by Louis XIV. to prevent the pas
Napier (xiii. 6), who deals gently with
his idol's subsequent cruelty to the sage of the Spaniards, and guard his
438 noun; 55.—1~"1cUnnAs T_() nosas. Sect. VI.
newly acquired slice of -dominion. intércommunication being cut oil‘. The
Placed on a conical hill between 2 Romans, when Spain was conquered,
ridges, it is strong although com broke down the barrier, and united
manded by the Spanish height, from the two portions under their para
whence there is an extensive view mount authority. The’ mint was very
looking towards Figneras and the snow busy, and the coins have survived the
capped soaring Canigu. On this Pue/"to city, as 30 have been discovered, all
Pompey erected a monument inscribed . of which bear the head of Minerva on
with the names of 876 places which he the reverse (Florez, ‘ M.’ ii. 409). For
had subdued. Caesar, when he also ancient details consult Livy, xxxiv. 9.;
passed by, having vanquished the ge Straho, iii. 2-ll; and Esp. Sug., xlii.
nerals and sons of this conqueror, raised 202. The Goths used Emporiae kindly,
an altar by the side of the former and raised it to a hishopric. The strong
trophy. Nothing now remains of p town resisted the invading Moors, and
either. Sic transit gloritl. was by them dismantled; it was finally
Soon the appearance of the.semi- ‘ destroyed by the Normans, and the sea,
soldier French donanier, the rigorous by retiring, has completed the injuries
searchings of trunks, nay persons, and of man.
the signing of passports, announce Rosas, 2% L. from Gerona, with its
another kingdom. Then adieu hungry long street of white houses, and placed
- Spain, charming land of the original, on the upper part of the bay, was the
racy, and romantic, and welcome Belle Greek P/151w, Rhodos: the old town, it
France, chosen country of most unpic is said, lay towards the headland, at
turesque commonplace, and most poeti San Pedro de Roda. Below the town is
.0111 cookery. But the comfort of a the citadel, which was besieged, Nov.
good dinner, good road, and good car 1794, by the French under Perignon,
riage is indeed unspeakable, after and gallantly defended by Isquierdo,
having declined the word “rough who, when his inadequate means were
it," in all its tenses; oh, dura tellus exhausted, managed, Feb. 3, to embark
lberisc! and save his garrison. The defences,
half-ruined, were never repaired, as is
usual in Spain and the East; accord
ingly, when the nex-t war broke out,
this important key to the coast, and
Rorrrn 55.—-Freunnns T0 ROSAS. of Figuerus, was left exposed to the
mercy of the enemy. Attacked, Nov.
From Figueras there is a wild and 1808, _by 7000 French under Reille,
picturesque riding route into France, Souham, and St. Cyr, it was gallantly
along the coast of the Gulf of Rosas. defended by O'Daly and Fitzgerald,
On one side Clistellon de Al!Zplll‘f((.S‘, now who had good Irish blood in their
amiserable ruined fishing hamlet, is veins: it held out for 29 days, sur
all that remains of the ancient com rendering Dec. 5. Meantime no effort
mercial Emporiae, Emporium, E/mropmr was made by any Spaniards to relieve
E/m-opmv. This colony of the Pho this important maritime place, as a
caaan Greeks from Marseilles, founded base for operations, with the Mediter
550 B.C., became the rendezvous of ranean open; and had it been held,
Asia and Europe. It traded then in the French would with difiiculty have
linen as now in calico. The Iberians overrun Catalonia, which, in fact, is
beheld these foreign settlers with great the key of Figueras; nay, when the
jealousy, and after many contests came English afterwards would have re
to a singular compromise : the Greeks paired the defences, they resisted the
were allowed to occupy the island rocks oifer, suspecting that they were going
Zrrs Jlletns, Jlicdrzs, but their city, Pale to keep it for themselves. Lord
opolis, was divided from the Iberian Cochrane, however, who commanded
town by a party wall, which was regu the ‘Impérieuse,’ on the 25th, just
larly guarded as in a case of siege, all threw some 80 blue jackets into the
Catalonia. FIGUERAS TO RO§AS. 439
headland fort, which the religious ‘land all along the coast.Rosas and
Spaniards called Lu Trinidad, and the its defences were reduced to ruin by
more aesthetic French le bouton dc rose. Suchet, a fate to which this frontier
These tars played such pranks with fort has immemorially been subject.
their cntlasses as only British sailors, ' Crossing the headland and passing
rendered reckless by uninterrupted the C/IbO de Creus, the site of the tem
victory, can venture to practise. They Y p le of Venus and her promontory, a
beat San Narciso and his Gerona Spa wild coast-road leads by Cervera to
nish fiies hollow, and on the 30th France and Forte Vendrcs, Portus
repulsed 1000 of the enemy. The . Veneris, where the steamers touch in
“mere” name of Cochrane, however, their passages to and from Cadiz and
(El coco, the bugbear) was enou h to Marseilles.
inspire terror to the enemies of ug
INDEX TO PART I.
Seville to Ronda by Ecija, Soult, art plunder of, 170, Spain, inquisition, 206
260 177,1so,19o,254 -—- Jesuits, 424
-—- to Ronda by Ol cruelties, 170, 204, language, 64
vera, 260 212,213,254 —- Mariolatry, 53, 128, ~
-—- to Xerez, 161 — desecration, 1s2, 194,195,247,325,3s4,
-——- to Ronda by Za 197,201,203,246 371,39s,413,419,422
hara, 260 _ -— sale ofplunder, 191 l? military works, 78
Shaking Sp., Ladies’ —-— jealous of Sebasti -—- mines, 339, 341
hands, 122 *5 ani, 294 i money, 15, 16
Shepherd Guide, mira Soult's brother, 348 -i murder crosses, 263,
culous, 236 Southampton to Cadiz, 359 2 .
Sherry wines, 157 130 —-— music, 102
Shooting tour, 47 Southey, history, 80 -—-- national resistance,
Sierra, 30 Spain, mountains, divi 79
Sierra de Gador, 331 sion into zones, 28 —— weakness, 125
——_Morena, 221 -—- aid, 139, 144, 156 navy, 141, 350
--~ Nevada, 329 ‘ and Spaniards, pre- , —- nosotros, preten
ascent of, 327 face, and 12, 36, 297 sions of, 70, 78, 133,
—— del Puerco, 144 —-— architecture, 55 145, 15L 232, 236,
Siete Suelos, 314 i bad government, 8, 333,354,417
Silius Italicus, 212 28, 74, 209, 293 painting, 54
Silkworms, 328 -* baths, 40, 291 —-— palabras, 65, 139,
Sillas correo, mails, 22 Z beggars, 120, 185 127
Silos, 315 books, 85 paucity of great
Simon de Montfort, 207 i bull-fights, 88-100 men, 139
Simulacros y Imagenes, -——- cigars, 109, 206 picturesque barba
49 i clergy, 139 rians, 5, 46
Sin Pecadns, 194 _ i climate, 29, 32, 37, people, 8, 36, 79
Skelton, T. (D011 Q1111!‘ 149 —— Punica fides, 99,
ote), 241 _ ;- costumes, 110, 111, -234,236,358
Skerret, Col., at 'I‘ar1f=l, 117,120 —-— repudiation, 134
150,400 1 dances, 102, 104 —— religion, 120
Sketching precautions, 13 -—- defeats, 235, 245, —~ resignation, 7
Slidell, Mr., book, 389 247, 248, 250, 289, rivers, 28, 30
Slings, 267 344, s47, 367, ass, -i robbers, 26
Smith, C. Felix, 150 437 -—- self-love, 87, 125,
Smuggling, Sp., 393 . Spain, documents, 76 422
Smugglers of Ronda, 252 Espanolismo, 79, sculpture, 51
Snails, 339 11s,235,2s9,417 Spain, short-lived great
Snake broth, 143 forms of courtesy, ness of, 87
Socorros de Espafia, 57, 122 smuggling, 252, 393
139,144,150 geography, 27 i tendency to monk»
Sactabis, 357 geology, 42, 127, hood, 422
Solano, wind, 134 426 -—-"theatre, 101
Soldados de Pavia, 210 grandiloquence, 65, truth, Eng., a libel,
Soldier and gentleman, 127, 138, 239 73,125
E.,s2 , heraldry, 64 —-— wines, 37, 157, 2-12,
Sollo, el, 202 -— how to deal with 287,388
Solsona, 427 Sp., 278 Spagnoletto, 359, 375
Somatenes, 419 —— lllustrado, el, 46 Earnvma, 70, 269
Sombrero, gacho, 119 —— images and idols, Standish, Mr., 158
Soto de Roma, 257, 325 49,51 Steam communications,
Soult, Marshal, defeat, —-— inns, 24 18
Albuera, 250 —-— ingratitude, 133, Steamers, Sp. invention
victory, Ocafia, 245 1sa,21s,240,2so ot‘, 417
INDEX TO PART I. 457
BTERILITY. TOMA R. TRUTH.
If INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS.
' ' GERMANY. P EGYPT.
l3nnLIN.adIarsch's
\ k Glass Warehouse . . 15 ALEXANDRIA-—H6le1Abbfllt - - - Page
. 34
u<>.~.~1-.- 'lden Star Hotel. . . . . 51 GenerslAseI1<>Y - - - - . 44
BREMEl\‘.--QHlll1Il21!1'8 Hotel. . . . . 34
Ulu¢Lsn.u>.—‘\Volf’,s Glass Manufactory . 11 ENGLAND,
¥‘ODOGNE.—l‘ arina sh1131111 :19 C°vlG>S“i - - 1° Custom House Agents—McCracken . .2-5
n.11~1<roa'r.—I‘aoc 1sG ass are ouse. 9 Cary-slrelesco _ _ _ ‘ _ _ _
. 7
Biihler's Manufactory of Staghorn . 12, 13 Swiss Couriers Society . . 11
Roman Em eror Hotel . . . . . 14 Whitty, Geographer . . . . 15
MllHLBAD.— amily Hotel . . . . . 35 White, Watclnnaker . . . . . . . 17
Mu1~z1cn.—Wimmer's Magazine . . . 7 Olivier and Carr, General Agents . . 18,19
Four Seasons Hotel . . . . . . 49 Chubb and Son's Locks and Safes . . . 20
NUm:11n1:1:o.—Stein's Magazine . . . 33 Mudie's Library . . . . . . . . 21
Nuremberg Manufactures . . . . 34 Athenmum . . . . . . . . . 21
PRAGUE and VIENNA.-—-H0fl1l3.IlI1'B Glass Locock’s Pulmonic Wafers . . . . . 22
Manufactory . . . . . . . . ll Burrow's Landscape Glasses . . . . 22
vIENNA.—HOL8l Wandl . . . . . 35 Black's Guide Books . .' . . . 23
Lobmeyr’s Glass Manufactory . . . 14 Measom's Railway Guide-books . 25
FRANCE, SVVITZERLAND, & ITALY. Danube and Black Sea Railway C0. 26
Adnms's Passport Agency Oflice . 27
Bsoninizs.-Hotelde France . . . . 33 Rooks of Voyages and Travels . . 2s
B1~:Rns.—Bernerhof (Hotel) . . . . 36 Brown and Pols0n’s Patent Flour . 29
Burp-'2.-Grossmann's Wood Sculpture . 6 Blackwood's Maps . . . . . 29
W snc1~:.—Biancl1ini's Mosaic . . . 8 Pelican Life Insurance . . . . so
~ .innaioni’s Marble Works . . . . 14 London and Westminster Bank . so
I taand Conti, Artists . . . . . 16 Travels in Denmark . . . . . as
iliguiennée Mauche . . . . . . 16 Epps, Homoeopathic Chemist . . . 34
,~‘ acciotti’s Picture-rooms. . . . . 16 Thresher’s Essentials for Travelling . . 34
berts, Perfumer . . . . . 31 Spiers’ Ornamental Manufactures . . 34
(££ace, &c., Depot . . . . . . . 36 'l‘himm, Foreign Bookseller . . . 3':
g Eva.-Liodet, Watchmaker. ". . . 30 Rowland's Perfumery . . . . . 37
. H0tel Byron . . . . . . . . 31 Heal's Bedsteads . . . . . . as
Izrrsntaxsx.--Phannacie Anglaise . 34 Southgate's Portmanteaus . . 39
Q QI IQIO
1. cno1m.—l\Iicali's Marble Works . . 11 South Coast Railway—Paris direct 41
L cause.-Engllscher Hot‘ . . . . . 36 Norwich Union Insurance . . O 42
1'ons.—Grand Hotel de Lyon . . . 27 South-Eastern Railway . . O O 43
cs.—How’s Hotel de l’Univers . . . 7 Hull Steamers . . . 0 I 0 44
ension Anglaise . . . . . . . 34 Galignanfs Paris Guide . . O O 44
.,,School for Young Gentlemen . . . 37 Whitburn's Foreign Pharmacy 0 44
RsR1s.—Hotel de Denx Mondes . . . 35 Handbook for Paris . . . . . 44
BA.—H1lg1l€t and Van Lint, Sculpto . 6 Dorrell and Son's Passport Agency 45
mc.—Fabri, Forwarding Agent . . . 8 Letts’ Passport Agency . . . . 46
House Agency . . . . . . . - 40 Glaciers of the Alps . . . . . 46
"l'tI(!L--KCFGZ, 0 0 0 0 0 33 Italian Valleys of the Alps , . 46
' - HOLLAND. Tennant, Geologist . . . . . 47
liS'1‘ERDAM.—D0€l9Il Hotel . . 1 . 36 Murray's English Handbooks . . 47
0'1'1‘ERDAM.-D\1L0h Rheulsh Railway . 32 Works on Iceland, &c. . . . 4s
-Kramers, Bookseller . '. . . . . 46 South-Western Railway. . . so
Art of Travel . . . . . so
" MALTA. Lee and Carter's Guide Depot . 52
VsLs'r1'.1.—Klngston, Chemist. . . . 35
May, 1861.
~, em.-.“
LIST OF DUTIES.
All kinds of Merchandise, Works of Art, Antiquities, Curiosities, &c., are now
admitted into England FREE OF DUTY, except the following (and a few others
not of sufficient interest to enumerate here), which are still liable to Duty, viz. :-—
£ s. rl.
Anqunausann Wxrnn . . . . . the gallon 0 14 0
Booxs printed in and since 1801 . - . . the cwt. 0 16 0
imported under International Treaties of Copyright . ditto 0 15 0
Pirated Editions qf English Works are totally prohibited.
English, reimported (unless declared that no Drawback
u-I Uh-I
was claimed on Export) . . . . . the lb. 0 0
CIGARS and Tonacco, manufactured (3 lbs. only allowed in a
pa.ssenger’s baggage, with 5 per cent. additional) . . the lb. 0 9 QO SOIQOQ O
Tonacco, unmanufactured , . . . . ditto 0 8
Corrnn . . . . . . . ditto - .0 0
Coxsncrlormav (Sweetmeats and Succadee) . . . ditto 0 0
Connmns and Lmunvns . . . . . the gallon 0 12
EAU nn Conooma, in long flasks . . . , each 0 0
in other bottles . . . . the gallon 0 14
Maccanoru and VERMICELLI . . . . . the cwt. 0 0 ii?"
'
Pnnrum-:n Smnrrs . . . . . . the gallon 0 14 ‘€>O\b-IO <$QUl¢.9U5O Q
PAPER-HANGINGS . . . I . . . 'the cwt. 0 14
PLATE, of Gold . . . . . the oz. troy 0 17
of Silver . . . . . . ditto 0 1
Pnmrs and Dnawmos . . . . . the lb. 0 0,
Tea . . . . ~ . . . ditto 0 1
Wxxns in Cask,
,, under
above 18°
18° of strength
and .
under 25° of strength . .. theH gallon
ditto 00 11
———— ,, ,, 25° ,, 40° ' ,, . . ditto 0 2
r-I
"T" as n 40° as 45° n ' ° ° ditto 0 2
in Bottle (6 bottles to the gallon) . . . ditto 0 2
Semrrs in Cask and in Bottle . . . . ditto 0 8
Spirits in Oasks must ‘contain not"le_ss than 21 gallons.‘
W N)
~_
FLORENCE.
G.BIlANGHIN1,' __;__
BR|ENZ— INTERLACKEN.
J. GROSSMANN,
SCULPTOR IN WOOD, AND MANUFACTURER OF SWISS
WOOD MODELS AND ORNAMENTS,
AT INTERIACKENI
PISA.
..i;__-_
THE oldest established house in Pisa, where may be found the best assortment
of Models of the Duomo, Baptistry, and Tower. Also Figures and other
local objects illustrative of the Agriculture and Customs of the country, executed
in the highest style of art. .
Their extensive Show Rooms are always open to Visitors.
L Cgrrespondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. MoCRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry,
on on. V
1861. MURRAY’S HANDBOQK ADVERTISER. 7
T- W- H O W, ii§.if‘§i°.‘$‘§§i.‘§ ‘I.‘.§¢“?>‘,§f.’.‘1.‘i‘i“.;’.{’.’.§‘;‘i“é’,"i.‘§;
the use of Naval and Military Oflicesr, &c.
mom Lomfiox, PROPRIETOR. Also the Binocular Reconnoiti-ing Field
Glass, so highly spoken of by oflicers and
This Hotel, most eligibly situated in one of other gentlemen; price, with best sling-case,
the most central positions in the town, on bl. 58. Gary's improved Achromallc Micro
the south side of the Place St. Dominique, scope, with two sets of choice lenses, capable
and close to the Corso, Cercle, Public Libra of defining the severe test objects, 16l. 16s.
ries, Theatre, Sea-Baths, &c.. has been en and 181. 18:. Travelling Spectacles of all
tirely renovated, and furnished with the kinds.
comforts necessary to English travellers.
Apartments or single rooms ou most Mathematical and Oglml Instrument
moderate terms. Maker to the Admiralty, ynl Military Col
Table d'h6te. Tn: Truss and Game run! lege, Sandhurst, Christ's Hospital, and East
taken in. India College, Agra, &c.
Correspondents in London, Messrs. J. and 181, STRAND, LONDON.
R. M‘Cnac1<nr1, 7, Old Jewry. Established upwards of a Century.
MUNICH.
HENRY WIMMER,
SUCCESSOR. TO
J. M. DE HERMANN,
PRINT AND PICTURE SELLER T0 HIS MAJESTY THE KING
or BAVARIA,
ROYAL PROMENADE STRASSE, No. 12,
L. FABBI,
CAPO LE CASE, No. s, ROME,
gfurinarhing Ztgrnt
GREAT BRITAIN, FRANCE, RUSSIA, GERMANY, AND AMERICA.
_i.°.___
FRANKFORT O. M.
P. A. TACOHI’S SUCCESSOR,
(LATE FRANCIS STEIGERWALD,)
Where will always be found Selections of the newest Articles from his
principal Establishment.
COLOGNE O. RHINE.
OF THE
'[HE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, but for the most
part the result of deception practised by interested individuals, induces me to request
the attention of English travellers to the following statement :
Since the first establishment of my house in 1709, there has never been any partner in
the business who did not bear the name of FARINA, nor has the manufacture of a second
and cheaper quality of EAU DE Conoenn ever been attempted. Since 1828, however,
several inhabitants of Cologne have entered into engagements with Italians of the name of
Farina, and, by employing that name, have succeeded to 0. very great extent in foisting an
inferior and spurious article upon the Public.
But they have in this rivalry in trade not been satisfied with the mere usurpation of my
name; the concluding phrase, “opposite the Julich‘s Place,” which had so long existed my
special property, was not allowed to remain in its integrity. To deceive and lead astray
again those of the public who are not fully conversant with the locality and circumstances,
the competition seized hold of the word " opposite,” and more than once settled in my
immediate neighbourhood, that they might avail themselves to the full extent of the phrase
“ opposite the Julich’s Place.” When tried before the courts, the use only of the word
“ opposite " was forbidden, which, however, has been supplied by the word “ at” or " near,”
with the addition of the number of their houses. It is true, another less flagrant, but not
less deceitful invention was, that several of my imitators established the sites of their
manufactories in other public places of the town, to enable them to make use of the phrase
“ opposite ——- Place, or Market,” on their address cards or labels, speculating, with respect
to the proper name “Julich,” on the carelessness or forgetfulness of the consumer. I there
fore beg to inform all strangers visiting Cologne that my establishment, which has existed
since 1709, is exactly opposite the Julich’s Place, forming the corner of the two streets,
Unter Goldschmidt and Oben Marspforten, No. 23;. and that it may be the more easily
recognised, I have put up the arms of England, Russia, &c. &c., in the front of my house.
By calling the attention of the public to this notice, I hope to check that system of imposi
tion which has been so long practised towards foreigners by coachmen, valets-de-place, and
others, who receive bribes from the vendors of the many spurious, compounds sold under my
name.
A new proof of the excellence of MY manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the
fact of the Jury of the Great Exhibition in London having awarded us the Prize Medal.
See the Otiicial Statement in No. 20,934, page 6, of the ' Times’ of this month.
Conoens, October. 1851. J, M_ FARINA,
Gegeniiber dem Jiilichs Platz.
*** My Agents in London are MESSRS. J. & R. M‘CRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry,
by whom orders are received for me. '
3‘
1861. MURRAY‘S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 11
SWISS COURIERS’
AND
WILLIAM HOFMANN,
BOHEMIAN GLASS MANUFACTURER,
TO HIS MAJESTY THE EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA,
RECOMMENDS his great assortment of Glass Ware, from his own Manufactories in
Bohemia. The choicest Articles in every Colour, Shape, and Description, are sold,
at the some moderate prices, at both his Establishments
LEGHORN. CARLSBAD.
open to vm"°"'
nrsm AGENTS IN moms» ARE
»~ the Crystal and Glass Wares of Bohemia
especially Table gnd Dgggeft sen-j_ce5_
MESSRS J AND R M.cRAcxEN all at reasonable and fixed prices.
. . . , CORREEPONDENTS IN ENGLAND:
7, Old Jewry, London. Messrs. J. 8: R. M‘CRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry.
12 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
FRANKFORT O. M.
H" STEMPEL,
SILBERNE
bewilligt
V0!!!
FRIEDRIUEBUHLER,
MANUFAG'l‘0BY 0F S'l‘AGll0llN,
Zeil No. 54 (next door to the Post-Oiflee).
FRANKFORT O. M.
FRIEDRIi)_Ii”BOHLEB,
Z eil,
dicht neben
Stempel, bewilligt vom Senat
VIENNA.
Bohemian White and Coloured Crystal Glass Warehouse.
J. & L. LOBMEYR,
GLASS MANUFACTURERS,
No. 940, Kl-QRNTHNERSTRASSE,
BEG to inform Visitors to Vienna that they have considerably enlarged their Esta
blishment. The most complete assortment of all kinds of Bohemian White and
Coloured Crystal Glass, and of all articles in this branch of industry, in the
newest and most elegant style, is always on hand. The rich collections of all
Articles of Luxury, viz. Table, Dessert, and other Services, Vases, Candelabras,
Lustres, Looking-glasses, &c. &c., will, they feel assured, satisfy every visitor.
The prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable cl1arges.—The English
language is spoken.
Their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M‘CRACKEN, No. 7, Old
Jewry, London, will execute all orders with the greatest care and attention.
FLORENCE.
PETER MANNAIONI,
SCULPTOR IN MARBLE AND ALABASTER, AND
WORKER IN FLORENTINE MOSAIC,
LUNG‘ ARNO, NORTH SIDE, No. 2036a.
A vast collection of objects of Art of every kind is to be seen in this establishment, such as
Marble and Alabaster Statues and Vases, Ancient and Modern Pictures, Miniatures, Engrav
ings, and Drawings, Objects of Antiqnit , Bronzes, 8:0. Artists’ Books and Florentine Mo
saic. Commissions taken for Marble usts and Portrait Painting, and generally for all
kinds of Architectural Works, as Monuments, Chimney Pieces, Furniture, &c.
Correspondents in London, Messrs. J. and R. IVPCRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry.
FRANKFORT O. M.
BERLIN.
igi.
GEOGRAPHICAL WAREHOUSE,
35, Parliament Street, London.
16 MURP.AY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
F 1.0 R E N c E.
MESSRS. COSTA & CONTI,
ARTISTS,
No. 1318, VIA DEI IBARIDI (Studio On the First Floor).
Messrs. Cosm and CONTI keep the largest collection in Florence of original
Ancient and Modern Pictures, as well as copies of all the most celebrated masters.
N.B.—English spoken.
Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M‘CRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry,
London.
F |. 0 §_E N c E. _
VIGUIER, NEE MAUCHE,
PIAZZA SANTA MARIA NOVELLA, N0. 4253, First F100};
Next door to the Casa Libra‘.
Linen and Linen Articles, ready-made Shirts and Shirt-fronts, plain and
cmb1'oide1'e<l. -
Handkerchiefs, in Cambric and Linen, plain and embroidered, white and coloured.
Stockings and Socks, for Ladies and Gentlemen. '
Damask Napkins and Table Linen.
Every kind of Novelty in Ladies’ Dresses, Szc.
This Establishment, selling for account of the first English and French Houses,
furnishes articles of the best quality at Manu€acturers' prices.-——Fixed Prices.
FLORENCE.
__g_._
PICTURE ROOMS.
MR. E. BACGIOTTI,
Via. Legnajoli, No. 1,
OPPOSITE THE STROZZI PALACE,
THE best Copies of the Florentine Galleries may be found there. If desired,
arrangements can be made for prices to include delivery free of charges in London
or New York.
Correspondenbs in London, Messrs. J. and R. M‘C-RACKEK, 7, Old luv;-y,
1861. l\IURIIAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 17
EDWARD WHITE,
(FROM DENT’S,)
cunonomnwnn,
A WATCH, AND CLOCK
MANUFACTURER.
Ii. WHITE,
For several years prin
cipal assistant at Messrs.
DmzT’s, of Oockspur
Street, having taken the
premises formerly occu- ~
pied by Messrs. Green J,‘
and Ward, respectfully i
solicits an inspection of
l his Stock, comprising a
S choice selection of
CHRONQMETERS, WATCHES,
;Q|-.0.G.K_$¢. 8°C‘:
Which have been recently manufactured, on the most improved principles,
by workmen of the first talent.
Complete Illustrated Priced Lists of CImbb’s Locks, .B0:r;es, Safes, and other
Manufactures, gratis and post-free.
This List will serve to indicate the INCLUSIVE character of the whole Collection,
which now exceeds Six Hundred Thousand Volumes, and to which all Books of
acknowlechcged merit and general interest are added, in large numbers, on the day
of publication.
THE ATHENEUM.
I1: having been represented to the Proprietors that when the Arumuenu started in its career
its yearly volume consisted of 840 pages, whilst now it has increased to double that number
of pages, the Proprietors resolved that the ATHENEUM should be paged in half-yearly
volumes, and an enlarged Index is now given with each volume in January and July.
T H E A T H E N IE U M
JOURNAL or LITERATURE, SCIENCE, AND ART.)
(sramrnn TO co FREE nr rosr, 5d.) Cosrsrns :-—
Reviews, with extracts, of every important New English Book, and of the more im-I
portant Foreign Works.
Reports of the Proceedings of the Learned Societies, with Abstracts of Papers of Interest.
Authentic Accounts of Scientific Voyages and Expeditions.
Foreign Correspondence on subjects relating to Literature, Science, and Art.
Crilticisngs on Art, with Critical Notices of Exhibitions, Picture Collections, New
‘rims, (‘(3.
Mu_§ic_ azad Drama, including Reports on the Opera, Concerts, Theatres, New
1' l1SlC, vc.
Biographical Notices of Men distinguished in Literature, Science, and Art.
Original Papers and Poems.
‘Weekly Gossip.
Miscellanea, including all that is likely to interest the Informed.
.THE ATHENEUM
is so conducted that the reader, however distant, is, in respect to Literature, Science, and the
Arts, on an equality in point of information with the best-informed circles of the Metropolis.
Ofilce for Advertisements, 20, Wnumsrou STREET, Srnaxu, hozwon, W. C.
22 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER; May;
4-
OFFICIAL
Second Editions.
Great Westem Railway and its Branches. 600 Engravings.
orm SHILLING.
Bristol and Exeter, North and South Devon, Cornwall, and
SOUTH WALES RAILWAYS. 300 Engravings. 500 Pages of Letterpress.
ONE SHILLING.
The above two Works bound together, 30. Gd.
" Mr. George Measom’s Oflcial Illustrated Guide to the Great Western Railway is the
continuation of a remarkable series of illustrations, literary and pictorial, of country crossed
by our great English railway lines. The abundance and excellence of the information, and
the good woodcuts given in these works for a. shilling, is one of the literary marvels of our
day. 'I‘he shilling ofiicial guide to the Great Western itself contains 872 pages of letter
press, with a woodcut or several woodcuts upon almost every leaf.”—E.\'.uu1\'r~:u.
“ The largest shilling’s worth of reading we ever saw. This interesting publication is a
marvel of cheapness. Theillustrations are well chosen and well executed, and the letter
press is written in the plain unvarnished style which characterises the previous works of the
observant traveller, Mr. Mcasom.”-Biusroi. MlRliOR.
“ The Oflkrial Illustrated Guide to the Bristol and Earcter Railu-ays.—This valuable guide
is exactly similar in style and construction to the larger companion volume noticed above,
giving descriptive illustrated notices of the diiferent places on the various lines. No person
travelling in South Wales and the West of England should be without this new ofiicial
guide.”—Bmsr0L Mmaoa.
" Illustrated Railway Guides.—Mr. George Measom has just added to his previous
achievements one which cannot fail to excite the greatest astonishment. He has published
The l)flCi0.l Guide to the Great Western Ra-ilway—a bulky volume, containing nearly 900
pages of well-printed descriptive matter, and 300 well-executed eugr-avings—the charge for
which is the absurdly low sum of one shilling! The book is the cheapest book ever published
in the world, and the editor may well speak of the ‘ studious toil ' necessary to get up such
a mass of information relative to such a multitude of places. Mr. Measom has also pub
lished The (/flcial Illustrated Guide to the Bristol and Ezeter, South and North Devon,
South Wales, and Cornwall Railways. If it were not for its gigantic companion, this Guide
must be pronounced marvellous] y cheap."-—Ln'1-zaroot. M sncunr.
*,,,* Mr. GEORGE MEASOM will feel obliged for any local information of public general
interest for embodiment in future Editions of the above Works.
The Exp;-egg B931; of the Danube Steam Navigation Company leaves Vienna every
Sunday at 6'30 A.M. The traveller can go by it to Basiaz instead of by the Railway on the
following day at equal cost.
The Traveller leaving SOUTH-EASTERN STATION, LONDON BRIDGE, on SATUR
DAY or TUESDAY at 6'55 A.M., either via Paris, Strasbourg, and Munich, or via Calais,
Brussels, Cologne, Mayence, arrives at Vienna mid-day MONDAY or THURSDAY, and
may leave again at 2 P.M. same day for Constantinople.
For further particulars apply in England to the SECRETARY of the Danube and Black Sea
Railway and Kustendj ie Harbour Company (Limited),
24, ABINGDON STREET, LONDON, S.W.
N.B.-A GOOD HOTEL] AT KUSTENDJIE, WHERE ALL INFORMATION AS T0
ROUTES MAY BE OBTAINED.
1861. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 27
"ill
39-WE
P9111
V!
9-m51l°1?Im1"]K.
~ &Po
CORN FLOUR
PATENT
Paisley, Manchester, Dublin, & London.
Sold by Grocers, Chemists, &c., in Packets, 211., 4d., and 8d., and Tins, is., 55., and 9s. 6d.
NEW GENERAL ATLAS. Dedicsted by Special Permission to theiqigen.
One Volume, imperial folio, half-bound morocco, price 5!. 15$. 611.,
SPECIAL NOTICE.
PELIOAN LIFE INSURANCE OFFICE. Established in
1797. No. 70, Lombard Street, E.C., and 57, Charing Cross, S.W.
DIRECTORS
Octsvins E. Coope. Esq. Henry Lancelot Holland, Esq.
William Cotton, Esq., ]).C.L., F.R.S. William James Lancaster, Esq.
John Davis, Esq. John Lubbock, Esq., I<‘,R.S,
Jas. A. Gordon, Esq., M.D., F.R.S. Benjamin Shaw, Esq.
Edward Ha\vkins,jun., Esq. Matthew \Vhiting, Esq.
Kirlnnan D. Hodgson, Esq., M.P. Marmaduke Wyvill, jun., Esq., M.P.
Robert. Tucker, Secretary and Actuary.
BON"U'5.——All Policies eifecied‘ on the Return System, and existing on the lat, July,
186i, will participate in the next division of Profits, subject to such oi’ them as have not
then been in force for five years being continued until the completion of that period.
I|0A1\‘|'S.—On Life Interests in possession or reversion: also upon other approved
Security in connection with Life Assurance.
*,* For Prospectuses, Forms of Proposal, &c., apply at the Oflices as above, or to any of
the Company’; Agents.
GENEVA.
LIOI)ET,
_WATCHMAKER AND JEWELLER,
64-, Rue (111 Rhone.
FLORENTINE BOUQUET,
Distilled from a combination of those delicious flowers for which Florence is so highly
celebrated, by
ROBERTS a 00.,
DISTILLERS OF ESSENCES,
AND
FLORENCE.
In consequence of the daily increadng demands from England for this now fashionable bou
quet the proprietors have established a depot in LONDON at
DENMARK.
@
‘ Mr. Marryat combines the discerning eye of the archaeologist, the ready hand of an
artist, and the knowledge of the historian.'—Lite1-ary Gazette.
NUREMBERG.
J. A. S T E I N
(0. A. DEMPWOLFF),
Magazine of Library, Photographs, and Objects of Art,
BAIERISCHER HOF.
MR. DEMPWOLFF begs leave to recommend his Magazine—Photographs, Library, and
Objects of Art--to the notice of Travellers visiting Nuremberg. They will find a large
collection of all indispensable Works, Photographs, Views, Engravings, Maps, &c., of
Nuremberg and other towns. All necessary information will be given to travellers with
the greatest pleasure. Great collection of reproductions of old and rare Engravings in
Photography.
To the year 1806 John Palm, famed for his deplorable death, was possessed of the old
establishment of J. A. Stein.
D
34 MURRA Y'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mav,
ESSENTIALS ox F2 R 0.
FOB
TRAVELLING.
i_Q__ SPIERS AND SON,
'l‘hresher’s India. Tweed Suits.
‘1‘hresher’s Kashmir Flannel Shirts. 102 & 103. HIGH STREET,
Thresher’s Kashmir Woollen Socks. Respectfully invite TOURISTS to VISIT
Thresher’s Coloured Flannel Shirts. their Extensive Warehouses for Useful and
Ornamental Manufactures, suitable for Pre
'.i‘hresher’s havelling Bags. sents and rememhranees of OXFORD.
SOLD ONLY BY All the GUIDE-BOOKS, MAPS, &c., of
Oxford and its neighbourhood kept in stock,
THRESHER & GLENNY, as well us Views, Photographs, Stereoscopic
152, srnmo, LONDON. Pictures, 8zc.
BREMEN. INTERLAKEN .
lHIiII[.II.MA.N"§ iEi<U)'lI‘1EiI..,, PHARMACIE ANGLAISE
The first Hotel at Brernen,,is situated on
AUG. F. IDJEENNLER,
the most beautiful part of the Ram art, and
in the immediate vicinity of the erminus,
Theatre, and Exchange. ENGLISH DRUGGIST,
Superior accommodation and comfort will PISPENSING CHEMIST.
be found here for families and gentlemen. SPECIALITES FRANQAISES.
The elegant Coffee Room attached to the EAUX MINFIRALES,
Hotel is supplied with a large selection of NATURELLES ET AR'l‘lFICIELLPB..
"English, French, and German Newspapers, PATENT MEDICINES.
\.l
1851. MURRAY’S H.'i.\'DBOOl\' AD\'ER'i‘lSlll'l. 35
PARIS.
Hotel (I08 Deinr Mondes et d’Angieteri'e,
8, RUE D’ANTlN.
Near the Tuileries, Place Vendéme, and the Boulevards.
THl$ Magnificent First-class Hotel, recently constructed and elegantly furnished
in the newest and most fashionzible style, siirrounded by Gardens, ]ilStlfi8S the
preference accorded to it by Families and Gentlemen, for the splendour and coni
fort of its Apartments, its excellent Chilsine, and the care and attention shown to
all who honour the Hotel with their pritronzige. Large and small Apai-tnients,
and single liooms at moderate Charges. Private liestauriint, splendid Cot‘l'ee
liooms, Snloons, Reading and Smoking liooms. Letter-box, Interpreters, Horses,
elegant Carriages, Oninibuses for the Railways.
HOTEL WANDL,
The largest Hotel in the centre of the
Inner Town of Vienna,
p can nr: RECOMMENDED FOR
CAREFUL AITENDANOE AND MODERATE PRICES.
B E R N E. l LUCERNE.
AMSTEBDAM.
BRAGK$ DOELEN HOTEL
Situated in the Centre of the Town. and most convenient for Visitors on
Pleasure or Business.
T commands a splendid View of the Quays, &c.; and, being conducted on a
liberal scale, it is patronised by the highest classes of society in Holland. It is
also much frequented by English Travellers for the comfort and first-rate accom
modation it alTo1‘ds, as well as for the invariable civility shown to visitors.
Cold and Warm Baths may be had at any hour,
CARRIAGES FOR HIRE.
Table-d'H6te at half-past 4, or Dinner d la carte.
FLOREFNCE.
- NICE, FRANCE. -T
School for Young Gentlemen.
MR. J. NASH,
MAISON PONS,
2, CROIX DE MARBBE.
During the Summer Months (1st June to
1st Sept.) the School is carried on in the
neighbouring mountains; the address being,
Bollene, pres Lantosque, Alpes Maritimes.
To urists and 'l‘ra\'elle1's,
Visitors to the Seaside,
and others exposed to the scorching rays of the
Sun and heated particles of Dust, will find
FOREIGN LANGUAGES.
li0Wln\l\'l)S’ KALYIIUR
a most refreshing preparation for the Com~
FRANZ THIMM’S plexion, dispelling the cloud of languor and
relaxation, allaying all heat and irritability,
SERIES OF and immediately affording the pleasing sensa
tion attending restored elasticity and health
European Grammars, ful state of the skin. .
Freckles. Tan, Spots, Pimples. Flushes,
and Ifiscolouration, fly before its application,
AFTER AHN'S METHOD. and give place to delicate clearness, with the
9' glow of beauty and of bloom. In cases of
Gemian Grammar, by Meissner . . . :~o »t>w~ » t~»>t.ow o o o c cvm sunburn, or stings of insects, its virtues have
»9-»
French Grammar, by Ahn . . . . . long been acknowledged.
Italian Grammar, by Marchetti . . . Price 4s. 6d. and Rs. 6d. per Bottle.
Spanish Grammar, by Salvo .. .
Portuguese Grammar, by Cabano
Swedish Grammar, by Lenstriim The heat of summer also frequently com
municates adryncss to the hair, and a ten
Danish Grammar, by Lund . . . .
l)utchtGrammar, by Ahn . . ' . . . dency to fall off, which may be completely
Latin Grammar, by Seidensziicker . . obviated by the use of
Hebrew Grammar, by H8I‘Xh€lI116l' . .
The method adopted in this original Series
ROWLANIIS’ Mi-\C:\SSi\R 0IL,
of Grammars is most simple and rational, and a delightfully fragrant and transparent pre
is eminently adapted for Self-tuition, for‘ paration for the Hair, and as an invigorator
School use, and for a comparative study of and purifier beyond all precedent.
European Languages. Price 3s. 611., 7s., 10s. 6d. (equal to four
small), and double that size 21s. per Bottle.
/ A @\
E emtees-as
CONTAINS DESIGNS AND PRICES or-' 150 DIFFERENT ARTICLES
; OF BEDROOM FURNITURE, AS WELL AS OF l
1 I00 BEDSTEADS, AND PRICES OF EVERY
DESCRIPTION OF BEDDING,
JOHN SOUTHGATE;
O
: HIS REGISTERED
,l
WARDROBE PORTMANTEAU
L
Is found by every one who has used it to be the most PERFECT and usssux. of any yet invented, and
to combine all the advantages so long desired by those who travel.
Its peculiar conveniences consist in its containing ssmaars comranrusnrs or drawers for each
description of Clothes. Boots, 8zc.; each is kept. entirely distinct, and is immediately accessible on
opening the Portmanteau, without lifting or disturbing anything else.
ROME.
._+-___.
J. P. SHEA,
ENGLISH HOUSE-AGENT,
FORWARDING AGENT
TO THE PRINCE OF WALES.
CORRESPONDENTS-—
LONDON................ ..Messrs. J. & R. M‘(‘/RACKEN, 7, Old Jewry.
Messrs. OLIVIER & CARR, 37, Finsbury Square.
DUBLIN ................ ..Messrs. O. & R. ELLIOTT.
LIVERPOOL . .....Mcssrs. O. & R. ELLIOTT, 17, Gotee Piazza.
FOLKESTONE ....... ..Mr. FAULKNER.
BOULOGNE S.M..... ..Mr. BERNARD, l8, Quai des Paqucbofs.
PARIS ................... ..Messrs. LANSING & CO., 8, Place de la Bourse.
MARSEILLES .........Mcssrs. GIRAUD FRERES, 44, Rue Sainte.
1861. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 41
PARIS
AND ALL PARTS 01-‘ THE
CONTINENT,
VIA NEWHAVEX AND DIEPPE.
FARES THROUGHOUT:
First Class . . . . . . . . . 28s. I Second Class . . . . . . . . 20s.
TICKETS AVAILABLE FOR FOUR DAYS.
RETURN TICKETS :
First Glass. . . . . . . . . . 50s. I Second Class . . . . . . . .36s.
AVAILABLE FOR om‘. MONTH.
FOR Times of Sailing, the Summer Tidal Service, and full particulars,
see Advertisements in ‘ Bradsha.w’s Guide for Great Britain and
Ireland;' also ‘Bradshaw's Continental Guide ;’ the ‘Times’ newspaper;
and the Time Tables of the Brzrenron AND Sonrn COAST COMPANY.
Every information may be obtained respecting this pleasant and
beautiful route, on application in London to A. D. BOSSON, 4, Arthur
Street East (opposite the Monument), London Bridge; and at the
London and Brighton Railway Oflices, London Bridge and Victoria
Termini; and at all their various Stations; also at the Compuny’s
Offices, 43, Regent Circus, Piccadilly.—In Paris, to A. D. B0ss01\',
7, Rue de la. Paix ; and at 35, Quai Henri IV., Dieppe. G '
42 M URRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
Norwich Union
FIRE INSURANCE SOCIETY.
Instituted 1797.
DIRECTORS.
Cuanuzs Evans, Esq., President. Enwaup Srzwsnp, Esq. Vice-President. i
Gnoncn Dunnasr, Esq. Jons Wmonr, Esq. D. DALRYMPLE, Esq.
Rom-znr JOHN Hnavsr H1-zxnr Buowxi-:, Esq. M. 1).
HARVEY, Esq. W. C. Horsorz, Esq. W. R. CLARKE, Esq.
H. S. PATTESON, Esq. C. E. Tucx, Esq. G. E. Smrsox, Esq.
Secretary. —Sir SAMUEL BIGNOLD. London Agent.—C. J. Buxrox, Esq.
lxsunancns are granted by this Society on buildings, goods, merchandise, and elfects.
ships in port, harbour, or dock, from loss, or damage by fire, in any part of the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland.
lt is provided by the constitution of the Society that the Insured shall be free from all
responsibility; and to guarantee the engagements of the ofllce, a fund of £550,000 has been
subscribed by a numerous and opulent Proprietary, which fund has been further increased
by the accumulation of an additional reserve, now exceeding £100,000. Three-Fifth5_Qf
the Profits of the Company are periodically distributed as a Bonus to parties
1nguring, who have thus from time to time received from the Society sums amounting in
the aggregate to nearly £400,000,
A further sum is applicable for a. Bonus upon policies renewed in 1861,
The Rates of Premium are in no case higher than those charged by the other prmcipal
Oiiices giving no Bonus to their Insurers.
. No charge is made for the Policy or Stamp when the insurance exceeds £300.
The business of the Company exceeds ,-668,000,000, and, owing to the liberality with
which its engagements have been performed, is rapidly increasing. The Duty paid to
Government for the year 1859 was £80,639, 103, 11d,; the amount insured on Farming
Stock was £1o,149,cse.
The Norwich Union Oliice is, therefore, now third in order of magnitude among the
Fire Oflices of Great, Britain.
Norwich Union .
LIFE INSURANCE SOCIETY.
Instituted 1808. Upon the principle of Mutual Assurance.
DIRECTORS.
Jorm Wnmnr, Esq., President. - C. M. Grusox, Esq., F.R.C.S.
G. Dunasnr, Esq., Vice-President. I { . W. R. CLARKE, Esq.
Jom: HILLING Banunno, Esq. ' 5 Du. Raxxmo.
FRANK Novnamc, Esq. Jom: BARWELL, Ronsnr Frrcn, Esq.
RICHARD GRIFFIN, Esq. FRANCIS PARMETER, Esq. Rev. S. F. Bronono.
Taosus Bnnvou, Esq. R. W. H.uvxus, Esq. W. H. CLABBURN, Esq.
R. BLAKE Huurnar, Esq. G. E. Fauna, Esq., F.R.S. Tnmms Lucas, Esq.
, Dr. Goonwm. R. JOHN WRIGHT, Esq. Rev. WILLIAM \V.um.m. ,
Audi'tors.—Mr. E. WILLETT, Mr. A. BAILEY, and Mr. J. R. HARDY.
Secretary/.—Sir Sumac BIGNOLD. London Agent.-C. J. Buxrox, Esq.
The whole of the Profits belo to the Assured.
The Accumulatlons exceed £2,00 ,000,
The Income of the Society exceeds £2 ,000,
The Amount assured is upwards of £5, 78,000,
Since its commencement, 32,700 Policies have been issued, and £5,666,555 paid to the
re resentatives of 6854 deceased Members.
he Bonuses may be applied at the option of the Assured in reduction of the future
Annual Premium, or their cash value received.
One-half of the first five Annual Premiums may remain as a permanent charge upon
Polices effected for the whole duration of Life.
Annuities and special risks are undertaken upon favourable terms.
This Society is entirely distinct from the Norwich Union Fire Ofiice. The aggregate
Annual Income of the two Societies is nearly Half 3, Million sterling,
For Prospectuses apply to the Society's Offices,
6, CRESCENT‘, NEW BRIDGESTREET, BLACKFRIARS; and
SURREY S’I‘REE'l‘, NORWICH.
186}. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 43
SEASON, 1861.
. . Barnes1861.
Lmmovsmasou, srnrrov,
L C. W. EBORALL, General Manager.
~— v
GALIGNANPS WHITBvR~'$
NEW nuns GUIDE. F""“*g" P"“""'““Y» 174, Regent Street, London,
Opposite New Burlington Street.
Compiled from the best authorities, re
-
vised _ -
and venfied .
by PelS_ona‘ -
mspec t‘Ion’ IA UGUSTUS WI-IITBURN
Pharmaceutical Chemist,lateG1u<;mn
from Parig:
and arranged OH fill entirely new P13", Florence, and Rome, begs to inform English
with Map and P[ates_ Royal 18m,,_ l‘ourists returning to London from the Con
10s. 6d. bound; or without
_ Plates, 7s. 6d. I iinent.
p,-9§crip;?0,,l:m:1s
tb t' lJ' E Ricipés
mm‘ b,,’§§“p,,“,,,,e§'§,.‘,‘§§
t ll F '
EGYPT.
ALEXANDRIA and CAIRO.
E. ST. JOHN FAIRMAN,
GENERAL AGENT, AND MERCHANT, 86C.,
Begs to place his services at the disposal of Visitors to Egypt,
AGENT FOR SEVERAL CONTINENTAL HOUSES.
PARIS.
Shortly, uniform with ‘ Handbook for Modern London,’
BRITISH SUBJECTS who purpose visiting the Continent will save much
trouble and expense by obtaining their Passports and Visas through
the above Agency. N0 personal attendance is required, and persons
residing at a distance from the Metropolis may have their Passports
—with the necessary Visas—-forwarded to them through the Post.
Messrs. DORBELL and Son will send their “ Passport Prospectus,”
containing every particular in detail relating to Passports, by Post, on
application.
Passports Mounted,
and enclosed in Cases,
with the name of the delay in the frequent
Bearer impressed in ‘ examination of the
Gold on the outside;
thus aiiording security
LIST OF CHARGE S.
Foreign Oflice charge . . . . . 2/0. 1 Agents‘ charge for Passport . . . 1/0.
French Visa . . . . . - . 4/3. l _——- for each Visa . . . 1/0.
Bavarian Visa . . . . - . . 2 6. l| Pocket Case, Russia leather . . . 4/0.
Russian Visa . . . . . . . 1/7. —~k- Morocco . . . . . 2/6.
Portuguese Visa. . . . . . 4/6. —?—— Roan . . 1/6.
Sicilian Visa (Naples) '. . 4/0 Mounting the Passport on Muslln..and
TuscanVisa . . . . . . . 4/6 Lettering Case with Bearers Name 1/6.
GEOLOGY AN D M I NERALOGY.
KNOWLEDGE of these interesting branches of Science adds greatly to the
pleasure oi’-the traveller in all parts oi‘ the world, and may lead to important discoveries.
Mr. TENNANT, Mineralogist to Her Majesty, 149, Srnaxb, gives Practical Instruction
to Travellers, in iillruziuwcr and Gnosocr. He can supply Geological Maps, Hummers,
Magnifying Glasses, Acid Bottles, Microscopic Objects, Biowpipes, and all the recent Works
on Mineralogy, Conchology, Chemistry, Botany, and Geology; also Models oi Crystals.
Elementary Oollections of Minerals, Rocks, and Fossils, at Two, Five, Ten, Twenty, Fifty,
and Oue Hundred Guineas each. -
A Collection for Five Guineas, which will illustrate the recent works on Geology by Lyell,
Ansted, Msntell, and others, contains 200 Specimens, in a plain Mahogany Cabinet, with
five Trays, comprising the following specimens, viz. :—
MINERAIS which are either the components of Rocks, or occasionally embedded in them :
Quartz, Agate, Chalcedony, Jasper, Gamet, Zeolite, Hornblende, Auglte. Asbestns, Felspar,
Mica, Talc, Tourmaline, Calcareous Spar, Fluor, Selenite, Baryta, Strontis, Salt, Cryolite,
Sulphur, Plumbago, Bitumen, Jet. Amber, &c.
NATIVE METALS, or Mi'}'l‘ALl.lFl-JROUS IWINERALS: these are found in masses or
beds, in veins, and occasionally in the beds of rivers. Specimens of the following metallic
ores are put in the Cabinet; iron, Manganese, Lead, Tin, Zinc, Copper, Antimony, Silver,
Gold, Platina, &c.
ROCKS: Granite, Gneiss, Mica-slate, Clay-slate, Porphyry, Serpentine, Sandstones, Lime
stones. Basalt, Lavas, &c.
PALA-IOZOIC FOSSIIS tom the Llandeilo, Wenlock, Ludlow, Devonian, and Carboni
ferous Rocks.
SECONDARY FOSSIIB from the liias, Oolite. Wealden. and Cretaceous Groups.
crTEl;TIARY FOSSILS from the Woolwich, Barton, and Brackiesham Beds, London-clay,
sg, c.
In the more expensive collections some oi‘ the specimens are rare, and all more seltct.
Mr. Tnrmsur has on sale the Duke oi‘ Buckinglmm's Collection of Minerals from Stowe.
It contains upwards of 3000 specimens, and has been greatly enriched since the purchase
by s collection of coloured Diamonds, Australian Gold, &c. Price 2000 guineas.
J. TENNANT, Geologist, No. 149, Strand, London, \V. C.
1Vl'lI'.'BR.AY’S
HANDBOOKS FOR ENGLAND.
1. MODERN LONDQN, A COMPLETE Gums 1-"on
Srrmnonns TO THE METROPOLIS. Map. 16mo. 5s. *
ICELAND.
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MUNICH.
THIS spacious new Hotel, situated in the most healthy part of the
town, has been recently constructed and elegantly furnished in the
newest and most fashionable style by the present proprietor, who will
spare no effort to promote the comforts and satisfaction of those who
may do him the honour of frequenting his Hotel. The Hotel is situ
ated. in the most central part of the town, and near to the Royal Palace,
the Royal Theatres, and the Post-oflice. The Hotel contains 120 large
and small Apartments, all of them having the view of the above-men
tioned handsome Street on the south side; together with two large
Dining Saloons, Coffee-rooms, Smoking-rooms, and Billiard Tables.
MR. SOHMITZ,
PROPRIETOR OF THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL,
1847. July
-i
.{
H. R. H. the Duchess of KEM and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. the
Prince of LEININGEN.
T. R. .the Duke and Duchess of CAMBRIDGE, with their Family and
Su te.
52 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. l'Vlay(,l-14' '
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