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A
'RDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERSD
IN

SPAIN.
BY RICHARD FORD, F.S.A.

PART I.

‘ NDALUCIA, RONDA AND GRANADA, MUROIA, VALENCIA, AND


I CATALONIA; THE PORTIONS BEST SUITED FOR THE
INVALID—A WINTER TOUR.

Q UIEN DICE ESP A §A--men T 01Zy"‘,_;\JM:


, :~ >: ,I ,'7~»._
'

E
! THIRD EDITION,
EXTIRELY REVISED, WITH GREAT ADDITIONS.

LONDON:
I JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
PARIS: GALIGNANI AND CO.; AND STASSIN AND XAVIER.
GIBRALTAR: GEORGE RO\\'SWELL.—MALTA: MUIR.

1855.
THE ENGLISH EDITIONS OF MURRAY’S HANDBOOK8 MAY BE OBTAINED OF THE
FOLLOWING AGENTS Z—

Germany, Holland, and Belgium.


Alx-LA. YE KISSINGEN . c.J'I'Jr;IzI..
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MADRID . , MONIER. | GIBRALTAR . ROWSWELL.
Russia.
s"r. PE'l'ERS- ISSAKOFF.-N. IS8AKOFF.— Moscow . . w. GAUTIER.
BURGH BELLIZARD. ODESSA . . VILLIETTY.
Ionian Islands. Constantinople. Greece.
CORFU . ..I.w.'rAYLoR. WICK. ATHENS . . A. NAST.
‘T0

SIR WILLIAM EDEN, BAR'I‘.,


THESE PAGES ARE DEDICATED, INVREMEMBRANCE OF PLEASA1\'T

YEARS SPENT IN VVELL-BELOVED SPAIN,

BY HIS SINCERE FRIEND,

RICHARD FORD.
(4)

NOTICE.

TH!-1 Publisher of the ‘ Handbook for Travellers in Spain’ requests, that


travellers who may, in the use of the Work, detect any faults or omissions
which they can correct from personal knowledge, will have the kindness to
mark them down on the spot, and forward such notes, favouring him at the
same time with their names—-addressed to Mr. Murray, Albemarle Street.
They may be reminded that by such communications they are not merely
furnishing the means of improving the Handbook, but are contributing to
the benefit, information, and comfort of future travellers in regard to a
country, which is in a state of considerable change and progress.

*3 No attention can be paid to letters from innkeepers in praise of their


own houses; and the postage of them is so onerous that they cannot be
received. '

CAUTION 'ro Tnnvnurzas.-—By a recent Act of Parliament the intro


duction into England of foreign pirated Editions of the works of British
authors, in which the copyright subsists, is totally prohibited. Travellers
will therefore bear in mind that even a single copy is contraband, and is
liable to seizure at the English Custom-house.

CAUTION T0 lmzxnnrnns AND o'nn:ns.—The Publisher of the Handbooks


has learned from various quarters that a person or persons have of late been
extorting money from innkeepers, tradespeople, artists, and others on the
Continent, under pretext of procuring recommendations and favourable
notices of them and their establishments in the Handbooks for Travellers.
The Publisher, therefore, thinks proper to warn all whom it may concern,
that recommendations in the Handbooks are not to be obtained by purchase,
and that the persons alluded to are not only unauthorised by him, but are
totally unknown to him. All those, therefore, who put confidence in such
promises may rest assured that they will be defrauded of their money without
attaining their object.—1855.
(5)

PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION.

THE rapid exhaustion of two large editions of -this "Handbook for


Spain,’ a country hitherto little known and less visited, proves that the
Pyrenees have ceased to bar out travellers from England, to whose
especial use this work is destined.
Of the many misrepresentations regardingthe Peninsula, few had
been previously more systematically circulated, than the dangers and
difficulties. It was our ofiice to show, that this, the most romantic and
peculiar country in Europe, might in reality be visited throughout its
length and breadth, with ease and safety,—that travelling there was no
worse than it was in most parts of the continent in 1814, before English
example forced improvements. The greatest desideratum was a practical
Handbook, since the national Guias are scanty and unsatisfactory, as
few Spaniards travel in their own country, and fewer travel out of it;
thus, with limited means of comparison, they cannot appreciate diffe
rences, or know what are the wants and wishes of a. foreigner. Ac
cordingly, in their Guides, usages, ceremonies, &c. which are familiar
to themselves from childhood, are often passed over without notice,
although, from their novelty to the stranger, they are exactly what he
most desires to have pointed out and explained. Nay, the natives
frequently despise, or feel ashamed, from a sensitiveness of being thought
“ picturesque barbarians,” of those very things which the most interest
and charm the foreigner, for whose observation they select the new
rather than the old, and point out their poor pale copies of Europe, in pre
ference to their own rich and racy originals. Again, the oral information
to be obtained on the spot is generally meagre; as these incurious semi
orientals look with jealousy on the foreigner who observes or questions,
they either fence with him in their answers, raise difiiculties, or, being
creatures of self-esteem and imagination, magnify or diminish everything
as best suits their own objects and suspicions. The national expres
sions “ Quien sabe .9 no se sa1ze,”——“ who knows P I do not know,” will
often be the prelude to “ No se puede,”—“ it can’t be done.”
This Handbook endeavours to show what might be known and what
may be done in Spain, with the least difficulty and the greatest satis
faction. With this view, the different modes of travelling by laud or
water, and the precautions necessary to be taken to insure comfort and
6 PREFACE T0 THE THIRD EDITION.

security, are first pointed out in the Introduction. The Provinces are
then described one after another. The principal lines of high roads,
cross-communications, names of inns, and quality of accommodation,
are detailed, and the best seasons of the year for exploring each route
suggested. Plans of tours are drawn up, and the best lines laid down
for specific and specified objects. The peculiarities of districts and
towns are noticed, and a short account given of the local antiquities,
religion, art, scenery, and manners. This work, the fruit of many
years’ wandering in the Peninsula, is an humble attempt to furnish in
the smallest compass, the greatest quantity of useful and entertaining
information. Those things which every one, when on the spot, can see
with his own eyes, are seldom described minutely; stress is laid upon
what to observe, leaving it to the spectator todraw his own conclusions ;
nor is everything that can be seen set down, but only what is really
worth seeing,—nec omnia dicentur (as Pliny says, ‘ Nat. Hist.,’ xiv. 2),
sed maxime insignia; and how often does the wearied traveller rejoice
when no more is to be “ done ;” and how does he thank the faithful
pioneer, who, by having himself toiled to see some “local lion,” has
saved others the tiresome task, by his assurance that it is not worth the
time or trouble.
The philosophy of Spain and Spaniards, and things to be known,
not seen, have never been neglected; therefore dates, names, facts,
and matters are mentioned by which local interest may be enhanced.
Curiosity is awakened, rather than exhausted; for to do that would
require many more such volumes as this. But as next to knowing a
thing oneself, is the knowing where to find it, sources of fuller informa
tion are cited, from whence this skeleton framework may be filled
up, whilst such a reference to the best authorities on nice occasions,
offers a better guarantee than any mere unsupported statement; and
the author whose object is truth, and whose wish is to have his views
disseminated, must feel much flattered to find the good use his pages
have been of to many authors, gentlemen and ladies too.
In Spain, a few larger cities excepted, libraries, newspapers, cicerones,
and those resources which so much assist the traveller in other countries
of Europe, are among the things that are not: therefore the provident
traveller should carry in his saddle-bags food both for mind and body,
some supply of what he can read and eat, in this hungry land of the un
informed. A little more is now aimed at than a mere book of roads, or
description of the husk of the country. To see the cities, and know the
minds of men, has been, since the days of the Odyssey, the object of
travel: but how “ difificult is it,” in the words of the Great Duke
(Disp., Dec. 13, 1810), “ to understand the Spaniards exactly l” Made
up of contradictions, they dwell in the land of the unexpected, le pays de
Panmcn TO run rnmn EDITION.‘ 7
l’imp1'e'vu, where exception is the rule; where accident and the impulse
of the moment are the moving powers; a land where men, especially in
their collective capacity, act like women and children; where a spark, a
trifle, sets the impressionable masses in action, and where no one can
foresee the commonest events, which baffle the most rational and well
founded speculations. An explosion may occur at any moment; nor
does any Spaniard ever attempt to guess beyond la situacimz actual, or to.
foretell what the morrow will bring : that he leaves to the foreigner,
who does not understand him--accordingly, sufiicient for the day is
the evil thereof. Paciencia y barajar is his motto, and he waits
patiently to see what next will turn up after another sunrise and shufile.
His creed and practice are “ Resignation,” the Islam of the Oriental;
for this singular people is scarcely yet European; this Berberia
Gristiana is at least a neutral ground between the hat and the turban,
and many still contend that Africa begins at the Pyrenees.
Be that as it may, Spain, first civilized by the Phcenicians, and long 'A".:<u-I—qr.'a-_g.a~p-q _sq»-t.
possessed by the Moors, has indelibly retained many of the original
impressions. Test her, therefore, and her natives by an Oriental
standard,—decypher her by that key,—how analogous will much
appear, that seems strange and repugnant, when compared with Euro
pean usages! This land and people of routine and habit are potted for
antiquarians, for here Pagan, Roman, and Eastern customs, long obsolete
elsewhere, turn up at every step in church and house, in cabinet and
campaign. In this age of practical investigation, the physical features
of Spain, her mighty mountain ranges and rivers, her wealth above and
below ground, her vegetation and mines, otfer a wide and almost new
field to our naturalists and men of science.
Again, to those of a less utilitarian turn, here are those seas which
reflect the glories of Drake, Blake, and Nelson, and those plains
that are hallowed by the victories of the Black Prince, Stanhope,
and VVellington; and what English pilgrim will fail to visit such
sites, or be dead to the religio loci which they inspire? And where
better than on the sites themselves, can be read the great deeds
of our soldiers and sailors, their gallantry and good conduct, the
genius, mercy, and integrity of their immortal chiefs, which will
be here faithfully yet not boastingly recorded P While every lie
and libel is circulated on each side of the Pyrenees, is, forsooth, the
truth to be altogether withheld in pages destined especially for their
countrymen? Is their history to be treated as an old almanack, in
order in false or cowardlydelicacy, to curry favour with unprincipled
vanity writhing under defeat, or with impotent pride resenting benefits
which imply inferiority P The mirror that shall truly reflect Spain
and her things, her glories and shame, must disclose a chequered picture
8 PREFACE T0 run rnmn Eamon.
in which black spots will contrast with bright lights, and the evil
clash with the good; sad indeed will be many a page; alas! for the
works of ages of piety, science, and fine art, trampled down by the
Vandal heel of destroyers, foreign and domestic, who have left a deep
footprint, and set “ the mark of the beast," which will pain the
scholar, the artist, and the philanthropist. If, however, such crimes
and culprits come like dark shadows (for not one tithe of the full
substance of crime will be set down), it must never be forgotten that
these verdicts of guilty refer to particular individuals and periods, and
not to any nation in general or to all times. And far more pleasant
has been the duty of dwelling on deeds of skill and valour performed
on the peninsular arena by native or foreigner, by friend or foe, and of
pointing out the excellences of this favoured land or SPAIN, and of
enlarging on the generous, manly, independent, and picturesque
PEOPLE, whose best energies in peace and war have been too often
depressed by misgovernment in Church and State.
However it may be the bounden duty of an honest guide to put
English travellers in possession of the truth as regards many things,
facts and persons, and thus to guard them against misrepresentations,
our readers need by no means, on crossing the Channel, blurt out all
they know of these truths, often the worst of libels. These double
edged weapons may be kept undrawn until necessary for self-defence.
Gratuitously to wound a sensitive kindly people, is neither polite or
friendly in the stranger, who is their guest—who will pass more quietly
through the land by making things pleasant to the natives, and if
speech be silver, silence is often gold.

“ Haze studia adolescentiam agunt, senectutem oblectant, secundas


res ornant, adversis perfugium ac solatium przebent ; delectant domi, non
impediunt foris ; pernoctant nohiscum, perigrinantur, rusticantur.”—
Cicero, pro Arch. 7.
PBEF.AcEOO0lIOII6II|QI0|lQ5

smm I.-A-PREALIMINARY REMARKS‘.

Public Conveyances and Steamers . . 6 ~ . . . . . . 11


Tours in Spain—General Notices . - - . - . . . . - . 34
Skeleton Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

SECTION II.—ANDALUCIA.
Introductory Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
Routes . . . . 0 . . . . . . . - . . . . . 126

SECTION III.—RONDA AND GRANADA.


Introductory Sketch of the Country and Natives: Routes . . . . 251
KingdomofGranada . . . . . . . . . . . . . -291

SEO'i‘1oN IV.—THE KINGDOM OF MURCIA.


General View of the Country and its Productions: Routes < ¢ ¢ 838
Mines 0 0 n o 0 - 0 0 ~ ¢ 0 ¢ u a 0 | a 0 339
1-7*e-.:—_=~1.<:4-,._1-»‘._-

SECTION V.—VALENCIA.
General Account of the Country, Natives, and Agriculture . . . 360
Routes¢Ill00OQll|tllll||360
Va1encia..................366

Sncmon VI.-CATALONIA.
Character of the Country and Natives— Commerce—Smugg1ing and
Routes . ' . . . . . . - - - ~ . - . . - . 391
Barcelona and its History . . . . . I . . . . . . . 408
lxm:x................-.-441

B3
10 coxrnnrs.

PART II.
SECTION VII.—ESTREMADURA.
General View of the Province—-its Merinos, Pigs, and Routes . . 461
Badajoz.......--....-.--.466

Sncrlopt VIII.—LEON.
Introductory Remarks on the Province and Natives, and Routes . 504
Salamanca. . . . . ." . .' -’ .' .' -' - - .' . . . 514
ElVierz0 ¢ - » . . . . - . . . . . . . . .539
valladolid 0 0 0 0 0 0 u | - I I n I 0 0 0 0

SECTION’ IX-—THE KINGDOM OF GALLICIA.


Introductory Sketches of the Country, People, Productio,n,and Routes 587
Santiago-.....-.-...-.-...60l

Sncrrox X.—THE ASTURIAS.


Gene‘ral'_View of the Principality, Early History, Natives, and Routes 631
OviedoandCoalMines . . - . . . . . . . - 1 .635

Sncrion XI.—THE CASTILES, OLD AND NEW.


General Account of the Country, Natives, and Routes . . . . - 652
Madrid’. . . . . . . . . . .663
Escorial . . . . » . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750
Toledo . . . - . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 774
:
Bnc_T1on XII.-THE BA$QUE PROYINCES.
The Fueros, Character of Country and Natives, Manners, Language, 872
andRoutes .................903

SECTION XIII.—KINGDOM OF ARRAGON.


Constitutional llistory, Character of Country and People . . . . 906
Zaragoza.¢...-............948

SECTION ‘XIV.—KINGDOM OF NAVARRE.

The Country, Natives, and Routes E ., . v . -_ ., ., . - . . 952


Pamplona_._.,._. . . . - . . . . . .
Innax; To which the reader is particularly requested to refer, when
any word or fact seems to require explanation . . . . . . 963
Spain. ( 11 )

SECTION 1.
PRELIMINARY REMARKS.

I. Spain and Spaniards; National Characteristics. -—II. Passports. -—


Ill. Custom-house Ofiicers; Prohibited Articles.—1V. Spanish
Money.—V. Steam Communications.—VI. Travelling by Land;
Roads; Posting Regulations and Charges; Post-ofiice and Letters;
Mail-coaches; Diligences ; Muleteers; Riding Tours.—VII. Inns.
—VIII. Robbers.—IX. Geography ofSpain; Provinces and Climate;
what to observe; Tours in Spain; Tour for the Idler; the Grand
-Tour ; Hints to Invalids; a Riding Tour; Mineral .Baths.—-X. Skele
ton Tours: —1. Roman Antiquarian Tour; 2. Moorish Tour; 3.
Geological and Mineralogical Tour; 4. Tour over the Cream of Spain;
5. A Summer Tour in the North of Spain; 6. A Central Tour round
Madrid; 7. An Artistical Tour; 8. A Military and Naval Tour;
9. Shootingitsand
l Sculpture, FishingPasos;
varieties} Tours;List
10.ofDilletante
Sculptors;Tours
11. :Dilletante
Spanish

Tours: Painting; Spanish Painting and its Characteristics; Cautions


to Purchasers; I/ist of Painters ; 12. Spanish Architecture ; its varieties
and periods; List of Architects; 13. Ecclesiological Tour; Spanish
Cathedrals; Disposition and Technical Terms.—XI. Religious Fes
tivals Tour.-—XlI. Kings of Spain.—XlII. Table of Contemporary
Sovereigns. —XIV. Royal Arms of Spain. —-XV. The Era and New
Style.-—-XVI. Spanish Language and Phrases.-—XVII. Relative
Socks of Spanish and English Weights, Distances, and Measures.—
XVIII. Authorities quoted :—1. Historical and Artistical; 2. Re
ligious ; 3. Military; French, Spanish, and English ; 4. Miscellaneous
Books.-—XIX. A Word to Book Collectors.—XX. Hints to Authors.
—XXI. The Bull-fight. —XXII. The Spanish Theatre: Dances,
Music. —- XXIII. Spanish Cigars. -—XXIV. Spanish Costume;
Mantilla and Cloak.—XXV. General Hints and Advice on Conduct.
vigi

I.—S1>Am mm Smmsnns.
Srscn Spain appears, on the map, to he a square and most compact
kingdom, politicians and geographers have treated it and its inhabitants
as one and the same; practically, however, this is almost a geographical
expression, as the earth, air, and mortals, of the diflerent portions
of this conventional whole, are altogether heterogeneous. Peninsular
man has followed the nature by which he is surrounded; mountains
and rivers have walled, and moated the dislocated land; mists and
gleams have diversified the heaven; and differing like soil and sky,
the people, in each of the once independent provinces now loosely
bound together by one golden hoop, the Crown, has its own par
ticular character. To hate his neighbour is a, second nature to the
Spaniard ; no spick and span constitution, be it printed on parchment or
12 I. sum AND smmsnns. Sect. I.
calico, can at once elface traditions and antipathies of a thousand years ;
the accidents of localities and provincial nationalities, out of which they
have sprung, remain too deeply dyed to be forthwith discharged by
theorists. The climate and productions vary no less than do language,
costume, and manners ; and so division and localism have, from time
irnmemorial, formed a marked national feature. Spaniards may talk
and boast of their country, of their Patria, as is done by the similarly
circumstanced Italians, but like them and the Germans, they have the
fallacy, but no real Fatherland; it is an aggregation rather than an
amalgamatiou,—every single individual in his heart really only loving
his native province, and only considering as his fellow-countryman,
su paisano-—a most binding and endearing word—one born in the same
locality as himself: hence it is not easy to predicate much in regard
to “ the Spains ” and Spaniards in general, which will hold quite good
as to each particular portion ruled by the sovereign of Lac Esparias, the
plural title given to the chief of the federal union of this really little
united kingdom. Espafiolismo may, however, be said to consist in a
love for a common faith and king, and in a coincidence of resistance
to all foreign dictation. The deep sentiments of religion, loyalty, and
independence, noble characteristics indeed, have been sapped in our
times by the influence of t-ranspyrenean revolutions.
In order to assist strangers in understanding the Peninsula and its
people, some preliminary remarks are prefixed to each section or pro
vince, in which the leading characteristics of nature and man are
pointed out. 'l‘\vo general observations maybe premised. First. The
People of Spain, the so-called Lower Orders, are superior to those who
arrogate to themselves the title of being their Betters, and in most
-respects are more interesting. The masses, the least spoilt and the
most national, stand like pillars amid ruins, and on them the edifice of
Spain’s greatness is—if ever-to be reconstructed. This may have
arisen, in this land of anomalies, from the peculiar policy of government
in church and state, where the possessors of religious and civil mono
polies who dreaded knowledge as power, pressed heavily on the noble
and rich, dwarfing down their bodies by intermarriages, and all but
extinguishing their minds by Inquisitions; while the People, over
looked in the obscurity of poverty, were allowed to grow out to their
full growth like wild weeds of a rich soil. They, in fact, have long
enjoyed under despotisrns of church and state, a practical and personal
independence, the good results of which are evident in their stalwart
frames and manly bearing.
Secondly. A distinction must ever be made between the Spaniard
in his individual and in his collective capacity, and still more in
an Qfficial one: taken by himself, he is true and valiant: the nicety
of his Pundonor, or point of personal honour, is proverbial; to him
as an individual, you may safely trust your life, fair fame, and purse.
Yet history, treating of these individuals in the collective, juntados,
presents the foulest examples of misbehaviour in the field, of Punic bad
faith in the cabinet, of bankruptcy and repudiation on the exchange.
This may be also much ascribed to the deteriorating influence of bad
government, by which the individual Spaniard, like the monk in a
convent, becomes fused into the corporate. The atmosphere is too
Spain. 11. mssronrs. ' 13
infectious to avoid some corruption, and while the Spaniard feels that
his character is only in safe keeping when in his own hands, and no man
of any nation knows better then how to uphold it, when linked with
others, his self-pride, impatient of any superior, lends itself readily to
feelings of mistrust, until self-interest and preservation become upper
most. From suspecting that he will be sold and sacrificed by others,
he ends by floating down the turbid stream like the rest : yet even
ofiicial employment does not quite destroy all private good qualities, and
the empleado may be appealed to as an individual.
II.——PASSPORTS.
A Passport—that curse of continental travelling, and still essential
in Spain—may be obtained at the Foreign-ofiice, Downing-street,
for 7s. 6d., by any British subject, backed with the recommendation of
a banker. It had better be viséd by the Spanish Ambassador in Lon
don. As this Rcfremlacion is expressed in the Spanish language, the
import of a foreign passport becomes intelligible in Spain, where, out of
the large towns, few persons understand either English or French. The
essence of a passport is the name and country of the bearer; all the rest
is leather and prunella and red-tapeism.
Travellers who propose taking Portugal in their way to Spain, may
obtain a passport from the Portuguese consul, at No. 5, Jeffreys-square,
St. Mary Axe; the fee is five shillings. It must be viséd at Lisbon by
the English and Spanish Ambassadors previously to entering Spain.
Those who enter Spain from France must have their passports viséd at
Paris by the Spanish Ambassador, and at Bayonne by the Spanish and
English Consuls; the latter demanding a fee, “according to Act of
Parliament.”
At the principal sea-ports of Spain, foreigners are constantly arriving
in the steamers without passports, who, if they wish to travel into the
interior, obtain one from the local authorities, which is never refused
when applied for by the English Consul. This especially holds good
with regard to those who visit the coast in their yachts, or in ships of
war. Those English who go directly to Gibraltar require no passport;
and when starting for Spain they can obtain one either from the English
Governor or from the Spanish Governor of Algeciras: both of these
require to be viséd by the Spanish Consul at Gibraltar, who demands a
trifling fee.
Although in peaceful times, and since the decree on this subject
of February 15, 1854, many rigid rules are relaxed, yet as -they may
be put in force, ultra-prudent travellers who intend travelling with
fire-arms, (which on the whole had better be avoided, a pocket revolver
perhaps excepted,) should have the circumstance mentioned on their
passport by the Spanish ofiicial at starting, when it is first refrendado.
And it is not amiss to have specified the particular objects of travel,
such as botanising, geologizing, sketching, &c. In our and in all
troublesome times a stranger making drawings or writing down notes
in a book, “sacando planes,” “taking plans,” “ma_peand0 el_ pais,”
“ mapping the country,”—for such are the expressions for the simplest
pencil sketch—was liable to become an object of suspicion in out-of-the
way places, and was thought to be an engineer, a spy, and at all events
14 11. 1>Ass1>onrs. Sect. I.
about no good. This Oriental dislike to the impertinente curioso tribe
dates from the French having, previously to Bnonaparte’s invasion,
sent emissaries in the guise of travellers, to obtain such information as
afterwards facilitated their obtaining possession of the citadels, treasures,
and pictures of their deceived ally. Matters are, we are told, much
mended; but let artists remember that Hogarth and Wilkie were arrested
for even sketching Calais, and it is always best to be on the safe side.
All persons, moreover, had better avoid evincing particular curiosity
in regard to military matters, fortresses, arsenals, barracks, &c.; and
should refrain from sketching them, which, in the Draco laws of Spain,
is of itself a serious offence; nor indeed are these objects deserving of
notice, being_mostly hors-de-combat, after the Oriental fashion, and, as
the Duke said, “ wanting in everything, and at the critical moment.”
Our own system, which answered perfectly when Ferdinand VII. was
king, and may again, was, not only to have the object of travelling and
inquiries clearly explained on our passport, but on arrival at any town,
to communicate intention of drawing, or anything else, to the proper
authority, and obtain his sanction. We always travelled with a captain
general’s passport, a most desirable document, as it is expressed in the
Spanish language, which everybody understands, and which rouses no
suspicions like one couched in a foreign tongue; it is the military
document of the great military oflicer, under whose especial protection
all foreigners are placed. Again, it is a sort of letter of recommenda
tion to all other officers in command on the line of route, on whom the
bearer should call the first thing, as when once a Spaniard’s suspicions
are disarmed, no person can be more courteous or attentive.
In whatever language his passport be couched, let every Englishman,
like good old George III., glory everywhere in his British birthright,
and proclaim it loudly and with thanks to God : Senor, gracias 6 Dias,
soy Caballero Ingles. Again, as the thing cannot be avoided, the
traveller should early form the habit, the very first thing on arrival, to
ask the innkeeper what steps are necessary about passports and police
which now in some sort represent the Inquisition—and forthwith see that
he is quite en regle. The habit once established of complying with
these forms practically gives little trouble, and will obviate a world of
vexation, inconvenience, and loss of time. The necessary formalities
are soon done; and usually great civility is shown by the authorities to
those travellers who will wait upon them in person, which is not always
required, and who do take of their hats-—-that outward visible sign of
good breeding and good intentions on the continent, which is so fre
uently disregarded by our cool, curt, and catch-cold countrymen, to
t eir infinite cost. The Spaniards, who are not to be driven with a rod
of iron, may be led by a straw, and in no country is more to be obtained
by the cheap outlay of courtesy in manner and speech; “cortesia de
boca, mucho vale y poco cuesta.” As a general rule, the utmost care
should be taken of this odious passport, since the loss of it naturally
subjects the stranger to every sort of suspicion. It should be carried
about the person when travelling, as it is liable constantly to be called
for : to prevent it from being worn out, it is advisable to have it laid down
by Mr. Lee, 440, West Strand, on fine linen, bound into a small pocket
book, with blank leaves attached, on which signatures may be written.
Spain. 111. CUSTOM-HOUSES.-—XV. smmsn MONEY. ' 15

III.-Cusrosr-Hoosr:s.
Akin to the nuisance of passports is that of the Aduaneros, the
custom-house officers, and of the receivers of the dereckos de puerta, or
dues levied at city-gates on comestibles de boca--articles of eating and
drinking. From the number of the employed it would seem that every
province and town in Spain was at war with or foreign to its neighbour.
N0 prudent traveller will ever risk his ease and security by carrying
any prohibited goods with him. The objects most searched for, are
sealed letters and tobacco: if the lover of cigars has a considerable
stock with him (a pound or so may pass), he is advised to declare it
at once, pay the duty, and obtain a gmla, or permit, which exempts him
from further molestation. English fire-arms and gunpowder are
altogether prohibited. Sportsmen, however, who enter Spain from
Gibraltar, may manage to introduce their own guns and ammunition.
As the Resguardos,—-the custom-house officers and preventive service
-—have a right to examine baggage, it is of no use either to resist
or lose thus time and temper; much more may be done by good
humour, patience, civility, and a cigar: raise therefore no dilficulties,
but offer your keys, and profess the greatest readiness to have every
thing examined. Recent travellers report that bribing is now out of
fashion in Spain, and that no money should be offered, as is enjoined
but not practised on our railways. But in our time the grandest
panacea was cash, the oriental Backshish, and those who preferred peace
to pesetas, paid with both hands. The oflicial ophthalmia created by
an apposite sprinkle of gold~dust was marvellous in its rapidity and
completeness, and the examination ended in being a mere farce. The
empleados, used to be defined as gentlemen, who, under the pretence
of searching portmanteaus, took money on the highway without incur¢
,ring the disgrace of begging, or the danger of robbing. The bribe, if
given, must be administered with some tact, as a “propt"n,a para echar
an traguito,” a something to drink your health with, &c. However,
there is no great difficulty in the matter, for where there is a will on
one side to give, there is a. reciprocal desire on the other to receive,
and the itching palm expands and contracts by instinct to the soothing
and sovereign ointment. These things may be changed, but the tra
veller will soon see how the wind lies, and judge whether he should
bribe or not.
IV.—Sm1v1sn Monnv.
Our advice coincides with that of the roguish Ventero to Don Quixote
and of honest Iago in Othello—“ put money in thy purse,” as it is the
primum mobile in all cosas de Espafia. “ The first thing they (the
Spaniards) invariably want,” as the Duke said, “is money :” their para
mount worship of the Virgin is secondary to the adoration of Mammon.
With few exceptions, the currency consists of specie—copper, silver,
and gold. Accounts are usually kept in reals, reales dc vellon.
Copper Momeys—“ Manedas dc C'obre.”—The lowest in denomination
is the ancient maravedi, now an imaginary coin, on whose former value
treatises have been written by Saez and others, and which still forms a
nnmismatic bone of contention. At present 34 make a Spanish real.
16 1v. sramsn MONEY. Sect. I.
The current copper coins are
Ochava = 2 maravedis.
Cuarto = 4 _ ,,
Dos cuartos = 8 ,,
For a general rule, the traveller may consider the “ cuarto” as equi
valent to a French sou, something less than our English halfpenny,
and as the smallest coin likely to come much under his observation.
Those below it, fractions of farthings, have hardly any defined form ;
indeed, among the lower classes every bit of copper in the shape of a
coin passes for money.
Silver Coins-—“ Monedas de Plata ”—are
The Real 1 2 4 10 20
Dos reales 1 2 5 10
Peseta l 2} 5
Media Duro I 2
Duro I
The real is worth somewhat more than 2}d.; the dos reales, or 2
reals, somewhat less than 5d., and may be considered as equivalent to
the half-franc, and representing in Spain the sixpence in England.
The peseta comes very nearly to the French franc. Of these and the
“ dos reales ” the traveller should always take a good supply, for, as
the Scotchman said of sixpences, “ they are canny little dogs, and
often do the work of shillings.” The half-dollar varies, according to
the exchange, between two shillings and half a crown.
The dollar of Spain, so well known all over the world, is the Italian
“ colonato,” so called because the arms of Spain are supported between
the two pillars of Hercules. The ordinary Spanish name is “duro.”
They are often, however, termed in banking and mercantile transactions
“ pesos fuertes,” to distinguish them from the imaginary “peso” or
smaller dollar of 15 reals only, of which the peseta is the diminutive.
The “ duro ” in the last century was coined into half-dollars, quarter
dollars, and half-quarter dollars. The two latter do not often occur;
they may be distinguished from the “peseta” and “dos reales” by
having the arms of Spain stamped between the two pillars, which have
been omitted in recent coinages ; their fractional value renders them in
convenient to the traveller until perfectly familiar with Spanish money.
The quarter-dollar is worth 5 reals, while the peseta is only worth 4 ;
the half-quarter dollar is worth 2.} reals, while the dos reales is only
worth 2. The duro in accounts is generally marked thus $. This
coin is now getting scarce, having been much melted down abroad, and
is nearly superseded in Spain by the French pieces de cing francs,
here called Napoleones, and these are the best coins a traveller can take,
as each is current everywhere for 19 reals.
The Gold Ooinage consists of the
Duro 1 2 4 8 16
Dos duros 1 2 4 8
Doblon 1 2, 4
Media-mrza 1 2
Onza . . 1
The new coin, the Isabelino, the Spanish sovereign, is worth 5 duros,
or 100 reals. The ounce, when of full weight, is worth sixteen
Spain. - 1v. smmsn uoxsv. 17
dollars ; the exact value, however, is uncertain, since these large
coins, are much worn by time, and the sweating by the fraudulent,
and seldom have preserved their legal weight and value. Those thus
deficient ought to be accompanied with a certificate, wherein is stated
their exact diminished weight and value. This certificate may be
obtained in the principal towns from the “c0m“raste,” or “ fiel
medirlor,” the person who is legally authorized to weigh gold coins
supposed to be light, and his place of abode is well known. All
this, however, leads to constant disputes and delays, and the
stranger must take care when he receives onzas, except from first-rate
Spanish bankers or merchants, to see that these great coins are of cor
rect Weight: two grains are generally allowed for wear. It is better,
except when residing in large towns, only to take the smaller gold
coins, to which objections are seldom raised. The traveller who is
about to leave the high road and visit the more rarely frequented dis
tricts and towns, should have nothing to do with any onzas whatever;
for, when these broad pieces are offered for payment in a small village,
they are apt to be viewed with distrust, and are difficult to be changed,
while with the smaller ones nothing of the kind occurs.
Some gold coins have a narrow thread or cord stamped round them,
and are then termed “ ale pemio.” They have a small additional value
—the gold duro, for instance, circulating for 21 reales 2 cu/a'ri0s—but
they should be avoided by the traveller, as he will seldom be reminded
when paying them away, that he is giving more than he ought. These
coins, in common with all which are not the simplest and best known,
only entail on him probable loss and certain trouble in adding up
accounts and making payments.
There are two imaginary coins with which old-fashioned Spaniards
perplex strangers when naming prices or talking of values, just as is
done with our obsolete guinea: one is the “ ducado,” worth 11 reals,
or about half our crown; the other is the “ peso,” the piastre, worth
15 reals, and by which, although imaginary, thevexchange on England
is still regulated: thus so many pence, more or less, as the rate may
be high or low, are reckonedas equivalent to this “ peso :” the exchange
on the principal cities of Europe is generally published in all Spanish
newspapers. 36 pence is considered to be par, or 48 for the dollar, or
“ peso fuerte,” as it is called, to distinguish the whole piece from the
smaller one. The traveller may calculate ‘by this simple rule how
much he ought to get for his pound sterling. ' If 36 pence will produce
15 reals, how many reals will 240 pence give ?—the answer is 100.
This being a round number, will form a suflicient basis for one newly
arrived in Spain to regulate his financial computation : he may take a
hundred reals as equivalent to a pound sterling, although he will be
most fortunate if ever he gets it--or even 95, the practical par—after
all the etceteras of exchange, commission, and money-scrivening, are
deducted. The usual mode of drawing on England is by bills at 90
days after sight, at a usance and half, 60 days being the usance. The
traveller who draws at sight, “ corto,” or at shorter dates, or “ a treinta
dias,” at 30 days, ought in consequence to obtain a more favourable
rate of exchange. _ _
In the passive commerce of Spain the infant trade of banking IS
18 v. srmm COMMUNICATIONS. - Sect. I.
seldom separated from the general business of a merchant, except in
the chief towns ; among these the circular notes of Messrs, Harries and
Farquhar, and others, are tolerably negociable.
The traveller, on arriving at the first principal city on his projected
line of tour, if it be one at all out of the beaten line, should draw a sum
suificient to carry him to the next point, where he can obtain a fresh
supply: and, in order to prevent accidents on the road, the first banker
or merchant should be desired to furnish smaller letters of credit on
the intermediate towns. Those acquainted with the mysteries of bills
and exchanges in London may frequently obtain paper on Spain here,
by which a considerable turn of the market may be made. Of foreign
coins, the English sovereign is worth 95 reals, the French napoleon 75.
It is needless to trouble the traveller with the infinite local coins
which circulate in the diflerent provinces, remnants of their former
independence, and the moreas a scheme is in contemplation of reducing
the varied monies of Spain to the decimal system of France—from cen
tigranos copper, to Isabelinos in gold, to be worth 100 reals.

V.—-STEAM COMMUNICATIONS.
The whole line of coast, an extent of nearly 600 leagues, is provided
with steamers. The Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Com
pany, which takes her Majesty’s mails on to Malta and Alexandria,
offers a regular conve ance from London to Gibraltar. To secure pas
sages and to obtain information of every kind, applications may be
made at the Company’s ofiice, No. 122, Leadenhall Street, or at
Oriental Place, Southampton. The Company publishes a little Hand
book, which contains everything necessary to be known, as to days of
departure, fares, &c. As these are liable to annual changes, travellers
should apply personally or by letter to the secretary, Mr. Howell, and
may be assured that they will meet with great civility and attention.
The Company has agents in the principal seaports abroad, of whom all
necessary information can be obtained on the spot.
The average fares may be thus stated :
First Class. Second Class.
£. s. d. £. s d.
To Vigo . . . 8 0 0 -- 5 0 0
Oporto . . 9 0 0 - ~ 7 0 O
Lisbon 1 . 10. 0 0 I e 7 10 O
Cadiz - . . 12 10 0 v s 9 O O
Gibraltar. . 13 0 0 H 9 10 0

Children under 10 years of age, if with the parent, are charged half the
above rates; under 3 years of age, free.' The fares include a liberal
table, and wines, for first-cabin passengers; and for second-cabin pas
séngers, provisions without wines.
Bagga,ge.—First-class passengers are allowed each 2 cwt. of personal
baggage ; all above that quantity will be charged at the rate of ls. per
cubic foot. Each vessel carries a medical officer approved of by govern
ment. Experienoed and respectable female attendants for the ladies’
cabin. Private family cabins for passengers, if required. The average
passages may be taken as follows :
Spain. , VI. TRAVELLING BY LAND. - 19
Is Soinnm. In Wmrx-:3.

Hours. Hours.
Southampton to Vigo - . - 96 to 105 -- 112
Vigo to Oporto - - . . 8 to 9 ~ - ll
Qporto to Lisbon . . . . 18 to 19 » - 22
Lisbon to Cadiz . . . - 27 to 31 - - 34
Cadiz to Gibraltar . . . 0 7 to I0 - - ll
The vessels generally remain about 3 hours at Vigo, 1-} off Oporto,
12 at Lisbon, and 3 at Cadiz ,- Gibraltar is usually reached the 8th
day. The direct passage is accomplished in 51} days. A new Screw
Steam Shipping Company was contemplated in 1854, to run
weekly between London and the South of Spain. Fares, to Cadiz
or Gibraltar, chief cabin, 10l. 10s.; 2nd cabin, 6l. 10s. The steamers
on their arrival atSpanish ports are soon surrounded with boats to convey
passengers on shore, the demands of the unconscionable crews rising
with the winds and waves. The proper charges per tarif are a peseta
per person, two reals per portmanteau, and one for each smaller package;
a passenger without luggage has to pay two reals for being landed, or
- put on board. The word “ tarifa ” itself generally settles disputes.
The foreign steamers are neither such good sea boats, nor so regular
or well manned as their English competitors. From La Taste, near
Bordeaux, one runs to San Sebastian and Oorunna ,' another touches
at the ports between San Sebastian and Malaya. There is regular
communication between Cadiz and Marseilles. The steamers usually
remain about half a day at Algeciras, a whole one at Malaya, a few
hours at Almeria, half a day each at Gartagena and Alicante ; a whole
one at Valencia, a few hours occasionally at Tarragona, two days at
Barcelona, and half a one at Port Vendres. The exact particulars,
times of sailing, fares, &c. are to be seen in every inn on the coast, or
may be ascertained from the local agents. Remember, if you wish to
carefully baggage
forward directed or
to packages
the person
bytothese
whom they aretoconsigned,
steamers, have themand to i
very

take a receipt for them and forward it per post to your correspondent,
desiring him to send for the articles the moment the steamer arrives,
or they will either be left on board, or lost, after the usual fashion of
the unbusinesslike, pococurante Mediterraneans.
VI.—TRAVELLING BY LAND—ROADS—POSTING—POST-OFFICE—MAIL
Coacnns —- DILIGENCES — (Joonrcs nn COLLERAS —MULETEEBS -
Rrnmc Towns.
The railroad is in its infancy. Spain, a jumble of mountains, with
few large cities, and those far between, with an unvisited, unvisiting
population, and a petty passive commerce, is admirably suited for the
time-honoured national locomotive, the ass and mule. There has, how
ever, been much talk of the Ferro Oarril system, which is to cover the
Peninsula with an iron net-work of communications, level the sierras,
and pay 20 per cent., &c. This is proposed to be done chiefly by
English gold and Navvies. A comedy or tragedy might be written on
the plausible schemes by which the gullability of John Bull has been
tickled and his pockets lightened. Hitherto the “ Powers that be ” in
Spain have scarcely settled the sine qua non preliminary step, i. e. the
20 VI. rmvnnuso BY LAND-—POSTIXG. Sect. I.
division among each other of the plunder in granting “concessions,”
&c. Permissions, forsooth, for silly foreigners to be allowed as a
favour to do the work—1.hrow away time and cash, in order to be
laughed at, insulted, and ultimately cheated for their pains.
Meantime there are eight royal roads, caminos reale9—carrete'ras
generales, which branch forth from the capital like spokes of a wheel,
and run to Iran, to Barcelona by Valencia, to Cadiz by Seville, to
Granada, to La Junquera by Zaragoza, to Corunna, Oviedo, and to
Portugal by Badajoz. These first-class roads are also called Arreeifes,
from the Arabic word for chaussées, causeways: they are made on the
Macadam system, admirably engineered, and kept in infamous neglect.
The wear and tear of traflic and weather has destroyed the surface
material, forming holes, and malos pasos, by which coach-springs are
cracked and travellers’ bones dislocated : nevertheless, heavy turnpike
and ferry tolls are raised at the portazgos y barcas ; recently some stir of
improvement is visible both in the repair of the older roads, and in the
construction of new ones; ordinary but carriageable roads are called
caminos carreteros, caminos de carruage, de carretera, and are just prac
ticable: bridle-roads are called caminos de herradura. Bye-ways and
short cuts are termed trochas, travesias and caminos de atajo, and
familiarly and justly called caminos de perdices, roads for partridges;
nor should any man in his senses or in a wheel-carriage forget the pro
verb no hay atajo, sin trabajo—there is no short cut without hard work.
A rambZa—Ar-abice rarnl—sand, serves the double purpose of a road in
summer for men and beasts, and a river bed in winter for fish, fools,
and wild fowl. This term and thing is pretty general in Valencia and
commercial! Catalonia.
Internal locomotion has been lately facilitated throughout the Penin
sula as regards public conveyances, but the progress is slow; travelling
in your own carriage with post horses, changing at each relay, is only
practicable on the high road from Irun to Madrid, and even then is cer
tainly not to be recommended: nor is it usually done except by Cabinet
couriers or very great personages. However, by making an arrange
ment with the persons who horse the diligences, journeys have been
performed on the leading roads by persons in their own carriages. The
‘ Guia General de Correos,’ by Francisco Xavier de Cabanes, 4to., Mad.,
1830, is useful, since posting, being a royal monopoly, is fettered with
the usual continental checks and bureaucratic bothers.
The distances are regulated and paid for—not by posts, but by
leagues, leguas, of 20,000 feet, or 20 to a degree of the meridian, and
somewhat less than three miles and a half English, being the nautical
league of three geographical miles. The country leagues, especially
in the wilder and mountainous districts, are calculated more by guess
work than measurement. Generally you may reckon by time rather
than distance, the sure test of slow coaching, and consider the league
a sort of German stunde, an hour's work. The term “ legua” is modified
by an explanatory epithet. “ Larga,” or long, varies from four to five
miles. “Regular,” a very Spanish word, is used to express a league,
or anything else that is neither one thing nor another, something about
the regular post league. “ Oorta,” as it implies, is a short league,
three miles. These leagues, like everything in Spain, vary in the
Spain, v1. POST-OFFICE AND LETTERS. , 21
different provinces, and it is contemplated, in imitation of the French,
to introduce one standard; when Iberian ears will be astounded with
myriometros y kilometres-—but this scheme is easier talked about than
done. Post-horses and mules are paid at the rate of six reals each
for each post league, and five only when the traveller is on the royal
service. The number of animals to be paid for is regulated by the
number of travellers; more than six, however, are never put on; if
the passengers exceed six in number, six reals more are charged, over
and above the price of the six horses put to, for each traveller exceeding
the number ; a child under seven years of age is not reckoned as a pas
senger; two children under that age are to be paid for as one grown
up person. If the postmaster puts on for his own convenience either
more or less horses than the tarifl' expresses, the traveller is only bound
to pay for the number therein regulated. The postilions are obliged
to travel two leagues in an hour, but they, if well paid, drive at a
tremendous pace. They may not change horses with another carriage
on the road, except with the consent of the traveller. Their strict
pay is three reals a league; but the custom is usually -to give seven,
and even eight, if they have behaved well: by law the post-boy can
insist on driving from the coach-box, “ el pescomte,” and as nothing of
that kind is attached to some britchkas and English carriages, an
additional real is the surest mode of obviating these discussions and
mounting him on his horse. The postilions, if they infringe any of
the rules, are liable to lose their “ agujetas ”—their “ propina ” (amo
1rwrw—something to drink-—pour boire—trink-gelt). The postmaster
of the next relay is bound to adjudicate on the complaint of the tra
veller, and he himself is amenable, if the traveller be dissatisfied with
his decision, to the director of the superior administration at the next
town, and he again to the “ superintendencia general,” the chief
authority at Madrid.
As regards post-ofiices and letters, the general correspondence of
Spain is tolerably well regulated; a single letter, una. carta sencilla,
must not exceed six adarmes, or half an ounce; the charge for postage
increases with the weight. The English system has been recently
introduced; a uniform charge for postage—by weight—now prevails
over Spain, irrespective of distance. The stamps are called sellos.
English newspapers, when not prohibited, are free to Spain ; pamphlets
and papers fastened like ours, with an open band orfaja for directing,
are charged at the rate of four reals the pound. As private letters are
opened with very little scruple in Spain, correspondents should be
cautious, especially on political subjects. Letters from England must
be prepaid. A traveller may have his addressed to him at the
post-oflice, but it is better to have them directed to some friend or
banker, to whom subsequent instructions may be given how and where
to forward them. In the large towns the names of all persons for whom
any letters may have arrived which are not specially directed to a par
ticular address, are copied and exposed on boards called Zas tablas at
the post-offices, in lists arranged alphabetically. The inquirer is thus
enabled to see at once if there be any one for him by referring to the
list containing the first letter of his name, and then asking for the letter
by its number, for one is attached to each according to the order it
22 v1. TRAVELLING ar LAND—DILIGENCF8. Sect. I.
stands in the list. He should also look back into the old lists, for after
a certain time names are taken from the more recent arrivals and
placed among those which have remained some weeks on the unclaimed
board. He should look over the alphabetical classifications of both his
Christian and surname, as ludicrous mistakes occur from the difficulty
Spaniards have in reading English handwriting and English names.
Their post-master-s—no decypherers of hieroglyphics—are sorely per
plexed by our truly Britannic terminal title Esq.: and many a traveller
gets scheduled away under the letter E. Prudent tourists should urge
home correspondents, especially their fair ones, to direct simply, and to
write the surname in large and legible characters. The best mode,
while travelling in Spain, is to beg them to adopt the Spanish form—
“ Sefior Don Plantagenet Smytheville, Caballero Ingles.” This “ tablas”
system occasions loss of time, temper, and letters, for any one may ask
for those of any other person and get it, so few precautions are taken.
As a rule, Plantagenet Smytheville, Esq., should look if there be a
letter for him under P. for Plantagenet, and under S. for Smytheville,
and under E. for Esquire. It is always best to go to the post-ofiice
and make these inquiries in person, and, when applying for letters, to
write the name down legibly, and give it to the empleado, rather than
ask for it vivé voce. The traveller should always put his own letters
into the post-ofiice himself, especially those which require prepayment,
“ que deben franquearse.” Foreign servants, and still less those hired
during a few days’ stay in a place, do not always resist the temptation
of first destroying letters, and then charging the postage as paid, and
pocketing the amount. Travellers, when settled in a town, may, by
paying a small fixed sum to the post-oflice clerks, have a separate
division, “ el apartado,” and an earlier-delivery of their letters.
Letters are generally sent for; if, however, they be specially directed,
they are left by a postman, “ el cartero.”
Riding post is called, from its expeditious nature, 'viajar 6 la Zigera ;
the traveller pays six reals a league for his own, and as much for the
horse or mule of the postilion who accompanies him; one real less is
charged if he be on the royal service. Cabinet couriers, “ correos de
gabinete,” have the preference of horses at every relay. The particular
distances they have to perform are all timed, and so many leagues are
required to be done in a fixed time; and, in order to encourage des
patch, for every hour gained on the allowed time, an additional sum
was paid to them: hence the common expression, “gammdo horas,”
gaining hours. These methods are getting obsolete.
Letters are conveyed on the chief roads in mails, Sillas correo, Sillas
do pasta; the carriages take two or three passengers on the road from
Madrid to Irun. The rate of travelling averages six miles an hour,
and, as scarcely any stoppages are allowed, a prudent traveller will
attend to some sort of “ proband,” although the less eaten and drank
on such feverish jaunts the better; the fares will be learnt at the post
ofiices; they average about 3d. a mile English. Very little luggage is
allowed, and extra weight is paid at three reals the pound. No time
should be lost in securing your place, as these mails are liable to be
full, especially in the summer time.
The public coaches or diligencias are based, in form and system, on
Spain. VI. TRAVELLING BY LAND-—-DILIGENCES. 23
the French diligence, from whence the name is taken ; these copies are
preferable to their originals, inasmuch as the company who travel by
them, from the difficulties of travelling with post-horses, is of a superior
order to those who go by the dilly in France, and the Spaniard is
essentially much higher bred than his neighbour, and especially as
regards the fair sex. The Spanish diligences go pretty fast, but the
stoppages, .delays, and “ behind time ” are terrible.
- Travelling in the diligencia, odious in itself, is subject to the usual
continental drags, billetes, and etceteras previously to starting; the
prices are moderate, and vary according to the places, the rotonda, the
interior, the berlina, and the coupe’ ,' very little luggage is allowed, and
a heavy charge made for all extra. Be very careful as to directions on
your luggage, avoiding the “ Esq,” and have it all registered; and take
your place in time too, as the diligencias fill very much, especially during
summer; the passengers are under the charge of a conductor, the
mayoral ; meals are provided at the coaches’ own baiting inns or para
dores, which are suflicient in quantity, endurable in cookery, and rea
sonable in charges.
On those roads where there are no diligences, recourse must be had
to the original and national modes of travelling. You can hire a cache
de colleras, a huge sort of lord mayor’s coach, which is drawn by half
a-dozen or more mules, and which performs journeys from thirty to
thirty-five miles a-day, like an Italian vetturino; this is at once a slow
and expensive mode of travel, but not unamusing, from the peculiar
manner in which cattle and carriage are driven. This picturesque turn
out, like our “coach-and-six” in Pope’s time, is fast disappearing.
Those natives who cannot afford this luxury resort to the galem, a sort
of covered Waggon without springs, which. being of most classical dis
comfort, is to be sedulously avoided, que diable allait il fairs dans cette
galére. Smaller vehicles, such as calesas and tartanas, are also to be
occasionally hired for smaller distances. So much for wheels.
A considerable portion of the Peninsula, and many of the most
interesting, untrodden, unhacknied localities, can only be visited on the
back of animals or on one’s own feet. As a pedestrian tour for pleasure
is a thing utterly unknown in Spain, it is not to be thought of for a
moment, while excursions on horseback are truly national, and bring
the stranger in close contact with Spanish man and nature. He may
hire horses and mules at most large cities, or join the caravans of the
regular muleteers and carriers who ply from fixed places to others.
These arrieros (arre'—arabice “gee up”), cosarios y ordinarios, have
their well-known inns or houses of call and stated days of arrival and
departure: moderate in their charges, they are seldom molested by rob
bers on the road. Those who can only ride on an English saddle should
procure one before starting, and every man will do well to bring out a
good pair of English spurs, with some spare sets of rowels, and attend
to their efiicient sharpness, for the hide of a Spanish beast is hard and
unimpressionable. Heavy luggage may always be sent from town to
town by the arrieros, whose recuas de acemilas, or droves of baggage
mules, do the ofiice of our goods-train.-N.B. Remember to be careful
in the directions, to take a receipt and forward it per post to the person
to whom your articles are addressed, desiring him to call for them.
The muleteers cf Spain form a class of themselves, and are honest,
24 vn. smmsn mas. Sect. I.
trustworthy, and hard-working; full of songs, yarns, lies, and incorrect
local information.
It cannot be said that their animals are pleasant to ride, nor indeed
are the hacks, hacas, and cattle usually let for hire much better; to
those, therefore, who propose making an extensive riding tour, especially
in the W. provinces, the better plan is to perform it on their own
animals, the masters on horses, the attendants on mules. The chief
points in such journeys are to take as few traps as possible, trunks
the impedimenta of travellers—are thorns in his path, who passes more
lightly and pleasantly by sending the heavier luggage on from town to
town; “ attend also to the provend,” as the commissariat has ever been
the ditficulty in hungry and thirsty Spain. Each master should have
his o\vn Alforjas or saddle-bags, in which he will stow away whatever
is absolutely necessary to his own immediate wants and comforts, strap
ping his cloak or manta over it. The servant should be mounted on a
stout mule, and provided with strong and capacious capachos de esparto,
or peculiar baskets made of the Spanish rush ; one side may be dedicated
to the wardrobe, the other to the larder; and let neither master nor man
omit to take a bota or leather wine-bottle or forget to keep it full ; spare
sets of shoes with nails and hammer are also essential. But when
once off the beaten tracks, those travellers who make up their minds
to find nothing on the road but discomfort will be the least likely
to be disappointed, while by being prepared and forearmed they will
overcome every difiiculty — hombre prevenido, mmca fu vencido, a
little foresight and provision gives small trouble and ensures great
comfort. The sooner all who start on riding tours can speak Spanish
themselves the better, as polyglott travelling servants are apt to be
rogues; a retired cavalry soldier is a good man to take, as he under
stands horses, and knows how to forage in districts where rations are
rare. Few soldiers are more sober, patient, and enduring of fatigue
than the Spanish ; six reals a day, food, lodging, and some dress, with
a tip at the end, will be ample pay. He must be treated with civility,
and abusive speech avoided.

VII.—Sr.».r~11sn Inns.
The increase and improvement of public conveyances, by leading to
increased travel and traflic, has caused some corresponding change for the
better in the quantity and quality of the houses destined to the accommo
dation of Wayfaring men and beasts. As they are constantly changing,
it is not easy to give their names in every place. These conveniences‘
are of varied denominations, degrees, and goodness, or they may be
divided into the bad, the worse, and the worst—and bad is the best : first
is the Fonda (the oriental Fundack), which is the assumed equivalent to
our hotel, as in it lodging and board are furnished ; second is the Posada,
in which, strictly speaking, only the former is provided; thirdly comes
the Venta, which is a sort of inferior posada of the country, as distin
guished from the to\vn ; at both Posada and Venta the traveller finds
the means of cooking whatever provisions he has brought with him, or
can forage on the spot, and he is charged in the morning a moderate
sum for the ruido do casa, the noise or row which he is supposed to
have kicked up in the peaceful dwelling. These khans are generally
larderless, although the ventero, as in Don Quixote’s time, will answer,
Spain. VIII. SPANISH nossnns. 25
when asked what he has got, Hay de todo, there is everything; but
de lo que V. traie, “ of what you bring with you,” must be understood.
The traveller, when he arrives at one of these Posadas, especially in
rarely visited places, should be courteous and liberal in using little
conventional terms of civility, and not begin by ordering and hurrying
people about ; he will thus be met more than half way, and obtain the
best quarters and accommodation that are to be had. Spaniards, who
are not to be driven by a rod of iron, may be tickled and led by a
straw. Treat them as caballeros, and they are of a high caste, and
they generally behave themselves as such. No man who values a
night’s rest will omit on arrival to look at once after his bed : a cigar for
the mozo, a compliment to the muchaclza, and a tip, ima gratificacioncita,
seldom fail to conciliate, and secure comfort.
The “ ventorillo ” is a minor class of venta, and often nothing more
than a mere hut, run up with reeds or branches of trees by the road
side, at which water, bad wine, and worse brandy, aguardiente, true
aqua ardens, disflavoured with aniseed, are to be sold. In out-of-the
way districts the traveller, in the matter of inns, will seldom be per
plexed with any difiiculty of selection as to the relative goodness; the
golden rule will be to go to the one where the diligence puts up—El
Parador de las Diligencias. The simple direction, “ vamos a La Po
sada,” let us go to THE inn, will be enough in smaller towns ; for the
question is rather, Hay posada, y doncle esta? Is there an inn, and
where is it P than Which is the best inn P
N.B. All who travel with ladies are advised to write beforehand to
their banker or friends to secure quarters in some hotel, especially when
going to Madrid and the larger cities.
The charges of the native inns‘ are not exorbitant; generally by a
dollar to two dollars a-day, bed and board are paid for; where, however,
establishments are set up on what is called the English or French system,
foreign prices are demanded, and very considerable ones, considering
the poor and copied accommodation. 'l‘hose who propose remaining any
time in a large to\vn may make their own bargain with the lI1Dk€G]"Bl‘,
or can go into a boarding-house, “ casa de pupilos,” or “ de huespedes,”
where they will have the best opportunity of learning the Spanish lan
guage, and obtaining an idea of the national manners and habits. These
establishments are constantly advertised in the local newspapers, and
the houses may be known externally by a white paper ticket attached
to the extremity of one of the window balconies; for if the aper be
placed in the middle, it only means “lodgings to let here.” ‘he tra
veller will always be able to learn from his banker, or from any respect
able inhabitant, which of these boarding-houses enjoys the best reputa
tion, or he may himself advertise in the papers for exactly the sort of
thing he wants.
V1II.—SPANISH Ronnsns.
Banditti have long been the bugbear of Spain, for a bad name once
gotten is not easily removed, and still less when the conventional idea
is kept up by sundry writersin England who instruct the public on the
things of Spain, where they have never been, and feed foregone,conclu
SP.~.rs.—I. °
,1
26 VIII. SPANISH ROBBERS. Sect. I.
sions. Undoubtedly on the long highways of a thinly-peopled land
accidents may occur, as Spanish gentlemen who have met with mis
fortunes in troubled times \vilI_ take to the road. But robbery is the
exception, rather than the rule, in Spain; and latterly precautions have
been so increased that some ingenuity must be displayed in managing
to get waylaid and pillaged—not that to the very ambitious for such
events], or tiihthc imprudent anltll incautious, the thing is altogether im
possib e. e experiment mi" t be tried with prospect of success in
Andalucia, taking Ronda as tfie centre of a robbing radius.
Referring to the ‘ Gatherings,’ ch. 16, for other details, sufiice it here
to say that the best plan is for the traveller never to trouble his head
about the matter, nor to frighten himself WllZl1‘Slla(lOWS of his own
{fi‘lSllitg letf himteturn a ldeadf elsgltfi the yarns oihmluletelers the ]l>ps_i
i 'e ac 0 wai rs 8.!1( r1 e y on - never e ess e wi o we in
suspicious places to, abjure foolish chattering about his plans, lines of
route, hours of starting, and so forth, and still more to avoid any exhi
bitgon off (ash :}n_dhattfi;active itenzstrif propterty, silver dretrgsing-msfisé
an so or fol his
of robbery \v iieparticular
o en beiiefit,
snvees for einbSpainias
we inv upelsewhere,
an ex mpore
Ia ocasion1

hace al Zadron. Again, should he have the misfortune to fall among


regular thieves
his person, he oueht
say ifrom to beinprepared
5lc., to 10l., order to with
keep athem
sufficient
in goodsum about
humour,
as they are prone to make an example of the unhappy wight who
evinces, by empty pockets, the malice prepense of depriving them of
their just perquisite; an empty purse is a beggarly companion, and
Eheytzireflapt infli<]:t blio\lvs on its proprietor, dandole pallos, ortto strip
im 0 e s in ec tan 0 e en cueros pour enoourager es au res.
common gilt wa’tch and chain ought,not to be omitted. Englishmen,
except when well armed and travelling in riiimbers, should _ne_ver attempt
resistance against a regular band of Spanish robbers, as it is generally
Eseless, acpd maydlead to fatal fcon_se((11iien§es; ryhereas ire frank, gop<t1
umoure surren er presence o min an a ca m cour ous appea 0
them as Caballeros, seldom fails to cohciliate the-2‘ gentlemen,” and to
chloroform the discomfort of the operation. The robbers consist of several
grades. The Ladroncs en grande are an organised gang of well-niounted,
well-armed men from 10 to 14 in number, and commanded by a chief,
and as they seldom attack travellers except at a great advantage, it is
better to lose one’s dollars than_one’s life, and to submit with a good
grace to the polite request of putting your face, month downwards, into
the mud,—-tlie Boja abajo, which will take no denial ; in fact, the non
compliance is understood to mean resistance ; and cases have occurred
where foreigners, from not understanding the force of these two words,
and not having laid themselves down, have been shot forthwith.
The next class are the Rateros, the rats. These are not organised
permanent bodies but skulkinv ill-conditioned footpads who lurk
about suspicious ventas, on the loblc-out for an accidental affair. They
seldom attack armed and prepared persons. A lower ruffian still is the
Raterillo, or small rat, who is a solitary performer, confining his attacks
to the utterly defenceless. A revolver is a sure remedy for these
major and minor rats ; and no had pocket-companion on the highways
and byways of Spain, as contributing to a general feeling of confidence.
Spain. 1x. THE osocuaruv or spam. 27
The regular and only really formidable robbers have almost disap
peared on the high roads, in consequence of the institution of a body
of mounted and well-armed men, who are stationed in the principal
routes as escorts and patrols. They are called Guardias civiles, to dis
tinguish them from military guards. The system was borrowed from
the gendarmerie of France, whence the troopers were called by the
people Hzjos ole Luis-Felipe, tons of Louis-Philippe, or Polizones, a new
word coined out of the old French Polissons. Diligences in periods and
localities of danger are usually provided with guards of their own, and
there is also in most large towns a body of armed men on foot, called
Miguelites, whose business it is to keep the peace, and by whom convoys
of value and travellers of rank are escorted. They resemble the
Peelers, the police in Ireland, and are formed of active, excellent men,
brave, temperate, and indefatigable. There are also few places in .
which an extempore protection may not be hired of Escopeteros, or men
armed with a gun, which in truth is the definition of half the Iberian
family when outside a town’s walls. Except when ladies are in the
case, and the localities are notoriously infested for the moment, all
these precautions are needless. A riding party of armed Englishmen
may dismiss the bugbear altogether, from the Pyrenees to the Straits
of Gibraltar. In general Spanish robbers are shy of attacking English~
men : they have a wholesome fear of the strength of our gunpowder,
and of our disposition to show fight. '

IX.-Tun Gsoeasrur or SPAIN.


One glance at a map of Europe will convey a clearer notion of the
relative position of Spain in regard to other countries than pages of
letter-press; an advantage which every school-boy possesses over the
Plinys and Strabos of antiquity, who were content to compare the shape
of the Peninsula to a bull’s hide. This country, placed between the
latitudes 36° -57' and 43° 40‘ north, extends from longitude 9° 13' west
to 30° 15' cast: the extreme length has been calculated at about
200 leagues of 20 to the degree, and the greatest breadth at somewhat
less than 200; and the whole superficies, including Portugal, is stated
to contain upwards of 19,000 square leagues, of which somewhat more
than 15,500 belong to Spain; it is thus almost twice as large as the
British Islands, and only one-tenlh smaller than France; the circum
ference or coast-line is estimated at some 750 leagues. This compact
and isolated territory, inhabited by a hardy, warlike population, ought,
therefore, to have rivalled France in military power, while its position
between those two great seas which command the commerce of the old
and new world, its indented line of coast, abounding in bays and
harbours, ofi'ered every advantage of vying with England in maritime
enterprise. Nature has provided outlets for the productions of a country
rich alike in everything that is to be found either on the face, or in the
bowels of the earth ; the mines and quarries abound with precious
metals and marbles, from gold’ to iron, from the agate to coal ; a fertile
soil and every possible variety of climate admit of unlimited cultivation
of the natural productions of the temperate or tropical zones: thus in
the province of Granada the sugar-cane and cotton-tree luxugate at the
o
28 IX. DIVISIONS rxro zo.\'r~:s. Sect. I.
base of ranges whose tops are covered with eternal snow. The unremit
ting bad govemment of the Gotho-Spaniard has done its worst to neu
tralise the advantages of this favoured land, which, while under the
dominion of the Romans and Moors, resembled an Eden, a garden of
plenty and delight. Now vast portions of the Peninsula offer a picture
painful to be contemplated by the philosopher or philanthropist: the
face of nature and the minds of men, dwarfed and curtailed of their fair
proportions, have either been neglected and their inherent fertility
allowed to run into luxuriant weeds and vice, or their energies misdi
rected, and a capability of good converted into an element of disgraceful
eminence in deeds of evil.
In geological construction, Spain, almost an agglomeration of moun
tains, is raised in a series of elevation terraces on every side from the
coasts ; the central portions, higher than any other table-lands in Europe,
range on an average from 2000 to 3000 feet above the level of the sea,
while from this elevated plain chains of other mountains rise. Madrid,
placed on this central plateau, is situated about 2000 feet above the
level of Naples, which lies in the same latitude; the mean temperature
of the former is 59°, while that of the latter is 63° 30 ; it is to this
difference of elevation that the difference of climate and vegetable
productions between the two capitals is to be ascribed.
Fruits which flourish on the coasts of Provence and Genoa, which
lie 4° more to the north than any portion of Spain, are rarely to be met
with in the interior of the elevated Peninsula: on the other hand, the
low and sunny maritime belts abound with productions of an African
vegetation; and botany marks climate better than barometers or ther
mometers. The mountainous character and general aspect of the coast
is nearly analogous throughout the circuit which extends from the
Basque Provinces to Cape Finisterre, and offers a remarkable contrast
to those sunny alluvial plains which extend, more or less, from Cadiz
to Barcelona, and which closely resemble each other in vegetable pro
ductions, such as the fig, orange, pomegranate, aloe, and palm-tree.
Again, the central table-lands, las Parameras, equally resemble each
other in their monotonous denuded aspect, in their scarcity of fruit and
timber, and their abundance of cereal productions.
Spanish geographers have divided the Peninsula into seven distinct
chains of mountains. These cordilleras arise on each side of intervening
plains, which once formed the basins of internal lakes, until the accu
mulated waters, by bursting through the obstructions by which they
were dammed up, found a passage to the ocean : the dip or inclination
of the country lies from the east towards the west, and, accordingly, the
chief rivers which form the drains of the great leading channels between
the principal water-sheds flow into the Atlantic : their courses, like the
basins through which they pass, lie in a transversal and almost a
parallel direction; thus the Duero, the Tagus, the Guadiana, and the
Guadalquivir, all flow into their recipient between their distinct chains
of mountains.
The Moorish geographer Alrasi took climate as the rule of dividing
the Peninsula into distinct portions. The first or northem zone is the
Cantabrian, the European; this portion skirts the base of the Pyrenees,
includes portions of Catalonia, Arragon, and Navarre, the Basque pro
Spain. IX. mvrsross mro zones. ~ 29
vinces, the Asturias, and Gallicia. In this region of humidity the
winters are long, and the springs and autumns rainy, and it should
" only be visited in the summer. This country of hill and dale is inter
sected by stream, which abound in fish, and which irrigate rich
meadows for pasture. The valleys form the dairy country of Spain,
while the mountains furnish valuable and available timber. In some
parts corn will scarcely ripen, while in others, in addition to the
cerealia, cider and an ordinary wine are produced. Inhahited by a.
hardy, independent, and rarely subdued population, these mountainous
regions offer natural means of defence. It is useless to attempt the
conquest with a small army, while a large one starves for want of sup-'
port in the hungry localities. The second zone, the Iberian or the
eastern, in its maritime portions, is more Asiatic than European, the
inhabitants partake of the Greek and Carthaginian character, being
false, cruel, and treacherous, yet lively, ingenious, and fond of pleasure:
this portion commences at Burgos, and is continued through the Sierras
of Albarracin and Segura to the Cabo de Gata, and includes the southern
portion of Catalonia and Arragon, with parts of Castile, Valencia,
and Murcia. The sea-coasts should_be visited either in the spring
or autumn, when they are delicious. They are intensely hot in the
summer, and infested with myriads of muskitoes. The districts about
Burgos should be avoided as being cold, except during the summer
months. Thus the upper valley of the Miiio and some of the north
western portions of Old Oastile and Leon are placed about 6000 feet
above the level of the sea, and the frosts often last for three months at
a time.
The third zone, the Lusitanian, or western, by far the largest,
includes the central parts of Spain and all Portugal ; and in the physical
condition of the soil and the moral qualities of the inhabitants, portions
present an unfavourable view of the Peninsula: the inland steppes
are burnt up by summer suns, tempest and wind-rent during winter,
while the absence of trees exposes them to the violence of the ele
ments; poverty-stricken mud-houses, scattered here and there in the
desolate extent, afford a wretched home to a poor, proud, and ignorant
population. These localities, which ofi"er in themselves little pleasure
or profit to the stranger, contain however many sites and cities of the
highest interest. Thus New Castile, the sovereign province, besides
the capital Madrid, comprehends Toledo, the Escorial, Segovia, Aranj uez,
Avila, (Juenca, which none who wish to understand Spain and the
genuine old Castilian cities can possibly pass by unnoticed.
The more western portions of this Lusitanian zone are much more
agreeable; the ilex and chestnut abound in the hills, while the rich
plains produce corn and wine most plentifully. The entire central
table-land occupies about 93,000 square miles, and forms nearly one
half of the entire area of the Peninsula. The peculiarity of the climate
is its dryness ; rain is so rare, that the annual quantity on an average
does not amount to more than 10 inches. The olive, however, is only
to be met with in a few and favoured localities. The fourth zone, the
Bcetican, the most southem and African, coasts the Mediterranean,
basking at the foot of the mountains which rise behind and form the
mass of the Peninsula; this mural barrier offers a sure protection
30 IX. HILLS AND PASSES OF SPAIN. SQCT. I.

against the cold winds which sweep across the central region. The
descent from the table elevations into these maritime strips is striking;
the face of nature is quickly and completely changed, and the traveller
passes from the climate and vegetation of Europe into that of Africa.
This region is characterised by a dry burning atmosphere during a part of
the year. The winters are short and temperate, the springs and autumns
quite delightful. Much of the cultivation depends on artificial
irrigation, which was carried by the Moors to the highest perfection;
indeed water, under this forcing, vivifying sun, is synonymous with
fertility; the productions are tropical; sugar, cotton, rice; the orange,
lemon, and date. The aIgaroba—ceratonia siliqnastrum—-and the
adelfu, the oleander, form the boundary marks between this, the tierra.
caliente, and the colder regions by which it is encompassed. Such are
the geographical divisions of nature with which the vegetable and animal
productions are closely connected. The Bmtican zone, Andalucia,
contains in itself many of the most interesting cities, sites, and natural
beauties of the Peninsula. Cadiz, Gibraltar, Ronda, Malaga, the Alpu
jarras, Granada, Cordova, Seville, Xerez, are easy of access, and maybe
visited almost at every portion of the year. The winters may be spent
at Cadiz, Seville, or Malaga, the summers in the cool mountains of
Ronda, Aracena, or Granada. April, May, and June, or September,
October, and November, will, however, be the most preferable. Those
who go in the spring should reserve June for the mountains; those who
go in the autumn should reverse the plan, and commence with Ronda
and Granada, ending with Malaga, Seville, and Cadiz ; and this region
will be found by the invalid infinitely superior as a winter residence
than any portions of the South of France or Italy.
The internal communication of the Peninsula, thus divided by the
mountain-walls of Oordilleras, is effected by high roads, carried over the
most convenient points, where the natural dips are the lowest, and the
ascents and descents the most practicable. As a general rule, the
traveller should always cross the mountains by one of these. The
goat-paths and smuggler-passes over other portions of the chain are
difiicult and dangerous, and seldom provided with villages or ventas :
the farthest but fairest way about, will generally be found the best and
shortest road. These passes are called Puertos—portte—mountain
gates: the precise ghaut of the Hindoos.
The term Sierra, which is commonly applied to these serrated ranges,
has been derived from the Spanish sierra, a saw; while others refer it
to the Arabic Sehrah, an uncultivated tract. Montafia means a moun
tain; Cerro a hog-backed hill; pico, picacho, a pointed height. Una
cuesta, a much-used expression, means both an ascent and descent.
Ouesta arriba, cuesta abajo, up hill, down hill. There are few of the
singular-shaped hills which have not some local name, such as Oabeza
del Moro, the Mcor’s head; or something connected with religion, such
as San Christobal, El Fraile, &c.
There are 6 great rivers in Spain—the arteries which run between
the 7 mountain-chains, the vertebrae of the geological skeleton. These
6 water-sheds are each intersected in their extent by others on a minor
scale, by valleys and indentations in each of which runs its own
stream. Thus the rains and melted snows are all collected in an infinity
Spain. IX. RIVERS or srnm. 31
of ramifications, and carried by these tributary conduits into one of the
6 main trunks, or great rivers: all these, with the exception of the
Ebro, empty themselves into the Atlantic. The Duero and Tagus,
unfortunately for Spain, disembogue in Portugal, thus becoming a
portion of a foreign dominion exactly where their commercial import
ance is the greatest. Philip II. “ the prudent,” saw the true value of
the possession of Portugal, which rounded and consolidated Spain, and
insured to her the possession of these outlets of internal produce, and
inlets for external commerce. Portugal, that omgulus iste, annexed to
Spain, gave more real power to his throne than the dominion of entire
continents across the Atlantic. Nor has the vision of a Peninsular
union ever faded from the cabinets of Spain. The Mifio, which is the
shortest of these rivers, runs through a bosom of fertility. The Tajo,
Tagus, which the fancy of poets has sanded with gold and embanked
with roses, tracks its dreary way through rocks and comparative
barrenness. The Guadiana creeps through lonely Estrernadura, in
fecting the low plains with miasma and ague. The Guadalquivir eats
out its deep banks amid the sunny olive-clad regions of Andalucia.
Spain abounds with brackish streams, Salados, and with salt-mines,
the remnants of the saline deposits, after the evaporation of the sea
waters. The central soil, strongly impregnated with saltpetre, and
always arid, is every day becoming more so, from the Oastilian antipathy
against trees. No skreen checks the power of evaporation; nothing
protects or preserves moisture. The soil, more and more baked and
calcined, has in some parts almost ceased to be available for cultivation:
from want of plantations and dykes the slopes are liable to denudation of
soil after heavy rain. Nothing breaks the descent of'the water; hence
the naked, barren stone summits of many of the sierras, which, pared
and peeled of every particle capable of nourishing vegetation, loom
forth, the skeletons of a land in which life seems extinct ; not only is
the soil thus lost, but the detritus thus washed down forms bars at the
mouths of rivers, or chokes up and raises their beds; thus they are
rendered liable to overflow their banks, and to convert the adjoining
plains into pestilential swamps. The volume of water in the principal
rivers of Spain has diminished, and is diminishing. Rivers which once
were navigable, are so no longer, while the artificial canals which were to
have been substituted remain unfinished : the progress of deterioration
advances, as little is done to counteract or amend what every year
must render more diflicult and expensive, while the means of repair
and correction will diminish in equal proportion, from the poverty occa
_ sioned by the evil, and by the fearful extent which it will be allowed
to attain. The majority of Spanish rivers—tor1-ents rather—scanty
during the summer time, flow away with rapidity when filled by rains
or melting snow; they are, moreover, much exhausted by being drained
off, sangrado, bled, for the purposes of artificial irrigation. The scarcity
of rain in the central table—lands diminishes the regular supply of water
to the springs of the rivers; and what falls is soon sucked up by a
parched, dusty, and thirsty soil, or evaporated by the dryness of the
atmosphere. An absence of lakes forms another feature in this country
of mountains. _
These geographical peculiarities of Spain must be remembered by
the traveller, and particularly the existence of the great central eleva
32 ix. CLl.\lA'l‘E or CENTRAL SPAIN. Sect. I.
tion, which, when once attained, is apt to be forgotten. The country
rises in terraces from the coast, and when once the ascent is accom
plished, no real descent takes places. The roads indeed apparently ascend
and descend, but the mean heiglit is seldoin diminished, and the in
terior hills or plains are merely the undulations of one mountain.
The traveller is often deceived at the apparent low licight of snow
clad ranges, such as the Guadarama, whose coldness will be accounted
for by adding the elevation of their base above the level of the sea.
The palace of the Escorial, which is placed at the foot of the Gua
darama, and in a seeming plain, stands in reality at 2725 feet above
Valencia, while the summer residence of the king at La Granju, in
the same chain, is 30 feet higher than the summit of Vesuvius. This,
indeed, is a castle in the air—a chateau en Espagne, and worthy of
the most German potentate to whom that element belongs. The mean
temperature on the plateau of Spain is as 15°, while that of the coast
is as 18° and 19°, in addition to the protection from northem winds
which their mountainous backgrounds afford ; nor is the traveller less
deceived as regards the height of the interior mountains than he is
with the table-land plains; his eye \vanders over a vast level extent
bounded only by the horizon, or a faint blue line of other distant
sierras; this space, which appears one level, is intersected with deep
ravines, barrancas, in which villages lie concealed, and streams, arroyos,
flow unperceived; another important effect of this central elevation is
the searching dryness and rarefication of the air. It is often highly
prejudicial to strangers: the least exposure, which is very tempting
undera burning sun, will bring on ophthalmia, irritable colics, and
inflammatory diseases of the lungs and vital organs. Such are the
causes of the pulmonia (the endemic disease of Madrid), which carries
ofl the invalid in a few days.
These are the geographical, geological, and natural divisions of the
Peninsula, throughout which a leading prevailing principle may be
traced. The artificial, political, and conventional arrangement into
kingdoms and provinces is so much the work of accident and of absence
of design; indeed, one who only looked at the map might sometimes
fancy that some of the partitions were expressly devised for the sake of
being purposely inconvenient and incongruous.
These provincial divisions were however formed by the gradual union
of many smaller and previously independent portions, which have been .
taken into Spain as a whole, just as our inconvenient counties constitute
the kingdom of England. Long habit has reconciled the inhabitants to
these divisions, which practically suit them better than any new
arrangement, however better calculated according to statistical and
geographical principles. The French, when they obtained possession of
the Peninsula, with their fondness for departmentalization, tried to re
model and recombine ancient and antipathetic provinces, to carve out
neatly and apportion districts, a la mode dc Paris, in utter disregard
of the wishes, necessities, and prejudices of the respective natives. No
sooner was their intrusive rule put to an end, than the Spaniards
shook off their paper arrangements, and reverted, like the Italians, to
those which pre-existed, and which, however defective in theory, and
irregular on the man, suited their inveterate habits. In spite of the
failure of the French, Spain has been recently re-arranged, and the
Spain. ix. POPULATION. 33
people parcelled out like pieces on a chess-board. It will long, however,
defy the power of all the reformers, commissioners, of all the doctri
naires, of all the cortes, effectually to efface the ancient, deeply-impressed
divisions, which are engraven on the retentive characters of the inhabi
tants of each distinct province, who next to hating their neighbours,
hate innovations.
The political divisions of former times consisted of 14 large provinces,
some of which were called kingdoms, as Granada, Seville, Cordova,
Jaen, Murcia, Valencia, &c. : others principalities, like Asturias :
others counties, like Barcelona, Niebla, &c.: and lastly,~others were
called provinces, like New and Old Castile, Estremadura, &c. : Biscay
was termed el Senorio. Spain, was then divided by “ decree,” into
49 provinces, viz.; Alava, Albacete, Alicante, Almeria, Avila,
Badajoz, las Baleares, Barcelona, Burgos, Caceres, Cadiz, las Canarias,
Castellon dc la Plana, Ciudad Real, Cordoba, la Corufia, Cuenca,
Gerona, Granada, Guadalajara, Guipuzcoa, Huelva, Huesca, Jaen, Leon,
Lérida, Logrofio, Lugo, Madrid, Malaga, Murcia, Navarre, Orense,
Oviedo, Palencia, Pontevedra, Salamanca, Santander, Segovia, Sevilla,
Soria, Tarragona, Teruel, Toledo, Valencia, Valladolid, Vizcaya, Zamora,
Zaragoza. There is now a scheme to reduce these 49 in to 20 provinces, in
the hopes of diminishing departamental expenditure and malversation,
and to further the centralizing system, which France has made the
fashion.
The present population, with a slow tendency to increase, may be
taken at 13,000,000, although Madoz rates it at 15,000,000. Drought,
the great bar to the fertility of soil, also tends to check fertility of women.
The prevalence, again, of foundling hospitals, and the large number of
natural children exposed by unnatural parents in these charnel-houses
to a certain massacre of innocents, and the drain of deadly Madrid on
the provinces at large, keeps down the scanty population. The revenue
may be taken at some 12,000,000Z. Badly collected, and at a ruinous per
centage, it is exposed to infinite robbery and jobbery. In Spain a little
money, like oil, will stick to every finger that handles it.
Spain, in the time of Ferdinand Vl I. one of the most backward
nations in Europe, has since his death made considerable advance.
The sleeper has been awakened by the clash of civil wars, and, however
far the lagging is yet in arrear, a certain social and administrative progress
is perceptible. The details connected with each ministerial department,
their separate duties, and what is or ought to be done under each head,
Justice, Finance, Home, Board of Trade, War, and Marine, are set forth
in the Spanien und seine fartschreitemie Entwiekelzmg, Julius v.
Minutoli, Berlin, 1852, but the infinite details of the working and social
life are put by him in too complimentary a style. Most Spanish things
so tinted d la rose on his paper appear perfect; but when tested by prac
tice, many a magazine will turn out to be an arsenal of empty boxes, and
many an institution of peace and war be found “ wanting in everything
most essential at the critical moment.” A swelling, pompous show of
canvas is spread over a battered, unseaworthy hull. The use made of
our Handbook by this industrious Prussian, and also by his country
man Zeigler in his recent Reise in Spanien, 1852, is flattering.
No doubt Spain has taken part in the general progress gf the last
c
34 IX. TOURS LN smix. Sect. I.
score of years, and a marked improvement is perceptible, especially in
medical science, and in the national education of the people. While
in 1803 only 1 in 340 were educated, it is now, \ve are told, calculated
that to every 1 in 17 the means of elementary schooling is offered.
If this be true, then England, the leader of moral civilization as France
is of sensual, may well take a leaf from the horn-book of Spain.

Touas IN SPAIN.
However much the Gotho-Spaniards have destroyed, disfigured, and
ill-appreciated the relics of the Moor-—in their eyes an infidel invader
and barbarian—the remains of that elegant and enlightened people will
always constitute to the rest of mankind some of the foremost objects
of curiosity in the Peninsula, and are indeed both in number and
importance quite unequalled in Europe.

Tour: FOR THE IDLER AND MAN or Pnmsunn.


Perhaps this class of travellers had better go to Paris or Naples-.
Spain is not a land of fleshly comforts, or of social sensual civilization.
Oh! dura tellus Iberiae !-—God there sends the meat, and the evil one
cooks :—there are more altars than kitchens--des milliers ale prétres ct
pas un cuisinier.
Life in the country, there, is a Bedouin Oriental existence. The inland
unfrequented towns are dull and poverty-stricken. Bore is the Genius
Loci. Boasted Madrid itself is but a dear, second-rate, inhospitable city ;
the maritime seaports, as in the East, from being frequented by the
foreigner, are more cosmopolitan, more cheerful and amusing. Generally
speaking, in Spain, as in the East, public amusements are rare. The calm
contemplation of a cigar, Mass and telling of beads, and a dolcc far
niente, siestose indolence, appear to suflice ; while to some nations it is
a pain to be out of pleasure, to the Spaniard it is a pleasure to be out
of painful exertion: leave me, leave me, to repose and tobacco. When
however awake, the Alameda, or church show, and the bull-fight, are
the chief relaxations. These will be best enjoyed in the Southern pro
vinces, the land also of the song and dance, of bright suns and eyes,
wholesale love making, and of not the largest female feet in the world.
Before pointing out other objects to be observed in Spain, and
there only, it may be as well to mention what is not to be seen,
as there is no worse loss of time than finding this out oneself, after
weary chace and wasted hours. Those who expect to find Well
garnished arsenals, libraries, restaurants, charitable or literary institu
tions, canals, railroads, tunnels, suspension-bridges, polytechnic galle
ries, pale-ale breweries, and similar appliances and appurtenances of
a high state of political, social, and commercial civilization, had
better stay at home. In Spain there are few turnpike-trust meetings,
quarter-sessions, courts of justice, according to the real meaning of that
word, no tread-mills or boards of guardians, no chairmen, directors,
masters-extraordinary of the court of chancery, no assistant poor-law
commissioners. There are no anti-tobacco-teetotal-temperance-meetings,
no auxiliary missionary propagating societies, no dear drab doves of
peace societies, or African; slave emancipationists, nothing in the blanket
_~
Spain. xx. wrmr ro onsnnvrz uv sranv. 35
and lying-in asylum line, little, in short, worth a quaker’s or a revising
barrister of three years’ standing’s notice. Spain may perhaps interest a
political economist, as affording an example of the decline of the wealth of
nations, and offering a fine example of errors to be avoided, and a grand
field for theories and experimental plans of reform and amelioration.
Here is a land where Nature has lavished her prodigality of soil and
climate, and which man has for the last four centuries been endeavouring
to counteract. El cieloy suelo es bueno, el entresuelo malo. Here the tenant
for life and the occupier of the peninsular entresol, abuses, with incurious
apathy the goods with which the gods have provided him, and “ preserves
the country” as a term incognito to naturalists _and every branch of
ists and ologists. All these interesting branches of inquiry, healthful
and agreeable, as being out-of-door pursuits, and bringing the amateur
in close contact with nature, ofl'er to embryo authors, who are ambitious
to book something new, a more worthy subject than the clecies repetita
descriptions of bull-fights and the natural history of mantillas, ollas,
and ventas. Those who aspire to the romantic, in short, to any of the
sublime and beautiful lines (feelings unknown to the natives, and
brought in by foreigners themselves), will find subjects enough in wan
dering with lead-pencil and note-book through this singular country,
which hovers between Europe and Africa, between civilisation and
barbarism; this land of the green valley and ashy mountain, of the
boundless plain and the broken sierra; those Elysian gardens of the
vine, the olive, the orange, and the aloe; those trackless, silent, uncul
tivated wastes, the heritage of the bustard and bittern ;—-striking
indeed and sudden is the change, in flying from the polished monotony
of England, to the racy freshness of that still original country, where
antiquity treads on the heels of to-day, where Paganism disputes the
very altar with Christianity, where indulgence and luxury contend
with privation and poverty, where a want of much that is generous,
honest, or merciful is blended with the most devoted heroic virtues,
where the cold-blooded cruelty is linked with the fiery passions of Africa,
where ignorance and erudition stand in violent and striking contrast.
There let the antiquarian pore over the fossils of thousands of years,
the vestiges of Phoenician enterprise, of Roman magnificence, of Moorish
elegance, in that land “ potted ” for him, that repository of much
elsewhere long obsolete and forgotten, and compare their massiveness
_
and utility with the gossamer Aladdin palaces, the creatures of Oriental
gorgoousness and imagination, with which Spain alone can enchant the _
European F.S.A. ; how tender the poetry of her envy-disarming decay,
fallen from her high estate, the dignity of a dethroned monarch, borne
with unrepining self-respect, the last consolation of the innately noble,
which no adversity can take away ; how wide and new is the field
opened here to the lovers of art, amid the masterpieces of Italian genius,
when Raphael and Titian strove to decorate the palaces of Charles, the
great emperor of the age of Leo X. Here again is all the living nature
of Velazquez and Murillo, truly to be seen in Spain alone; let the
artist mark well and note the shells in which these pearls of price shine,
the cathedral, where God is worshipped in a manner as nearly befitting
his glory as finite man can reach—-the Gothic gloom of the cloister, the
feudal turret of Avila, the vasty Escorial, the rock-built alcazar of im
- ~_-
-_.
36 Ix. Iouus IN sum. Sect. I.
perial Toledo, the sunny towers of stately Seville, the eternal snows and
lovely vega of Granada; let the geologist clamber over mountains of
marble, and metal-pregnant sierras ; let the botanist cull from the wild
hothouse of nature plants unknown, unnumbered, matchless in colour,
and breathing the aroma of the sweet south ; let all, learned or unlearned,
listen to the song, the guitar, the castauet; mingle with the gay, good
liumoured, temperate peasantry, free, manly, and independent, yet
courteous and respectful; live with the noble, dignified, high-bred,
self-respecting Spaniard ; share in their easy, courteous society ; let all
admire their dark-eyed women, to whom ages and nations have con
ceded the palm of attraction, to whom Venus has bequeathed her
girdle of fascination; let all—-sed ohe! jam satis—enough for
starting on this expedition, where, as Don Quixote said, there are
opportunities for what are called adventures elbow-deep. “Aqui,
Hermcmo Sancho, podenws metir Zas manos hasta los codos, en esto gue
Zla1r:an.aventuras.”
In suggesting lines of routes in Spain, a. whole year would scarcely
suflioe to make the grand and complete tour. It might be performed
in the following manner ; the letters annexed signify that the moans of
progress can be accomplished S. by steam, C. by public conveyance,
R. by riding :—
THE Gnann Tours.
Start from England by the Steam-packet about the end Q/' lllurch for
Cadiz, and then proceed thus-—
Puerto, by Steam. Alberca, R. Sept. Burgos, C.
Xerez, Coach. Ciudad Rodrigo. Valladolid, C.
Bonanza. July 24. Salamanca, R. Segovia, R. C.
Seville. S. Zamora, R. Escorial, C.
May 6. Cordova, C. Benaveute, R. Avila. R.
Andujar, C. Astorga, R. Madrid, R.
Jaen, C. Ponferrada, R. Toledo, C.
May 20. Granada, C. Lugo, R. Oct. Aranjuez, C.
Alpujarras, Ride. Aug. 5. Santiago, R. Cuenca, R.
Berja, R. Aug. l0. La Corufia or Madrid (winter),
Motri], R. Ponferrada. or at
June 5. Malaga, R. Ore.-nse. R. Valencia, C.
Antequera, R. Tuy, R. Xativa, C.
Ronda, R. Vigo, R. Villena, R.
Gaucin, R. Santiago, R. Murcia, R.
Gibraltar, R. La Coruiia, C. Cartagena. C.
Tarifa, R. or S. Oviedo by the Orihuela, R.
June 25. Cadiz, R. or S. coast, R. S., Spring. Elche, C.
Seville, S. or by Cungas Alicante, C.
Aracena, R. de Til1€0, R. Ibi, R.
Badajoz, R. Aug. 10. La Corufia. Alcoy, R.
July 5. Merida, C. R. Oviedo. R. Xativa, R.
Alcantara, R. Leon, C. Valencia, C.
Coria, R. Sahagun, R. Tarragona,C.S.
July 16. Plasencia, R. Burgos. R. Reus, C.
Yuste, R. Santander, C. Poblet, R.
Abadia, R. Bilbao, R. Cervera, R.
Batuecas, R. Vitoria, C. Igualada, R.
Spain. 1x. nmrs T0 mvamns. 37
Spring. Cardona, R. Huesca, C. R. \ Pamplona,R.C.
Monserrat, R. ThePyrenees,R. Elizondo, R.
Martorell, R. Tudela, C. Vera, R.
Barcelona, R. Pamplona, C. Irun, R.
Zaragoza, C. Summer. Tolosa, C.
Summer. Jaca, R. Irun, C. or .

Hnzrs TO Invamns.
The superiority of the climate of the South of Spain over all other
regions of Europe, which was pointed out in our former editions, is now
ratified in the able and practical treatise of Dr. Francis,* the “ Clark of
Spain,” and the first to grapple professionally, after much personal expe
rience and examination, with this hygienic subject. Fair Italy, with
her classical prestige, her Catholic associations, her infinite civilization,
and ready access, has long been the land of promise to our travellers
expatriated in search of health. But the steam and rail of England
have now annihilated time and space, and her pen has pioneered the
path to distant Spain, and dissipated the delusions and dangers of
banditti and garlic. Independently of a more southem latitude, the
geometrical configuration of Spain is superior ; while the Apeamines, the
backbone of Italy, stretching N. to S., offer no barrier to northern cold,
the sierras of Spain, running E. and W., afford complete shelter to
the littoral strips. Again, where the skiey influences of Italy are
enervating and depressing, the climate of the Peninsula is bracing and
exhilarating. Free as a whole from malaria, dryness is the emphatic
quality of the climate. Malaya, on the whole, may be pronounced
the most favoured winter residence in Europe, and justly claims to
be the real Elysian fields—pace those of Paris and Naples.
As Spain itself is a conglomeration of elevated mountains, the treeless,
denuded interior, scorching and calcined in summer, keen, cold and wind
blown in winter, is prejudicial to the invalid; the hygienic charac
teristics of the maritime coasts to the VV. from Vigo to San-Sebastian,
are soothing and sedative—a relaxing influence prevailing as the
French frontier is approarhed ; the strip to the E., from Barcelona to
Cadiz, is more bracing and exhilarating; midway, in Murcia, occur the
driest regions in Europe, with Malaga for the happy medium.
The benefits derived by well-timed change of climate in cases of con
sumption, dyspepsia, bronchitis, and chronic complaints, the climacteric
failure of vis vitm, and the vivifying influence on the health of mind and
bo:ly—reoxygenated, as it were—a.re matters of fact. The stimulus of
glowing light, and the effect of warm and constant sunshine on sur
faces chilled by the wet blanket of fog and cloud, works wonders. The
insensible transpiration proceeds constantly; the skin then does its
work to the relief of the internal organs. The water drunk in Spain,
where—in the warmer portions-—diabetes and dropsy are little known,
is deliciously pure. The wines of the south especially--Malaga and
Manzanilla—-are dry, cheap, and wholesome. The cuisine, in a country
where people eat to live, not live to eat, will indeed keep body and
soul together, but will tempt no weak and wearied “stomach ” to re
‘ Change of Climate, &c., with an account of the most eligible places of residence for
lnvallds in Spain, Portugal, Algeria, &c., by D. J. T. Francis, MJ). London. 1858.
38 IX. nmrs T0 mv.u.u>s. Sect. I.
3 pletion. The peptic benefits of climate on the natives are evident by
the way they digest an oil, vinegar, and vegetable diet, and survive
chocolate, sweetmeats, and bile-creating compounds. The sustaining
efiect is proved by the untiring activity of the very under-fed masses,
where many seem to live on air, like chamelions. How strong are
Spanish lungs—teste their songs—and how few are their winter-coughs—
taste their churches !—The brain, again, in a land of No se sabe, and
where there is no reading public, no hourly penny-post or Times, is left
in comparative rest—1-are boons these for the two organs that have
the least holiday under the mental and physical toil entailed by
our over-refined civilization. The very dullness of Malaga—1’rose
is the tutelar of Spanish towns—benefits the invalid. There are no
wearying aesthetic lions to be encountered—no Madame Starké to be
“ done”—no marble-floored and peopled Vaticans to be slidden through
—no cold Coliseums to be sketched—no Fountains-of-Egeria picnics
no “season ” dinnerings and late balls, to excite, fever and freeze by
turns: at Malaga the invalid leads a quiet life, calm as the climate,
and, blessed with an otiose oriental real dolce-far-niente existence, can
leave nature to her full 1/is medicat-rim. To be always able to bask in
the open air, to throw physio to the dogs, to watch the sun, the
country, and the people, with the satisfaction of every day getting
better, are consolations and occupations sufficient. The invalid will,
of course, consult his medical adviser on the choice of residence best
suited to his individual case: and the specialities of each locality are
given by Dr. Francis with medical detail. The precautions necessary
to be observed are no less fully set forth by him, and the genera!
benefits derivedfrom a riding tour in Spain pressed on the convalescent.
And we too, who have thus wandered over many a hundred leagues of
wild and tawny Spain, can fully speak to the relief thus afforded to
severe dyspepsia, and may be permitted to say a little word.
Cato, a great traveller in ancient Spain, thought it a matter for
repentance in old age to have gone by sea where he might have gone
by land. And, touching on the means of locomotion, Rails and Post
horses certainly get quicker over a country, but the pleasure of the
remembrance, and the benefits derived by travel, are commonly in an
inverse ratio to the ease and rapidity with which the journey is per
formed.* In addition to the accurate knowledge which is acquired of the
country, (for there is no map like this mode of surveying), and of a con
siderable and by no means the worst portion of its population, a Riding
Expedition to a civilian, is almost equivalent to serving a campaign
It imparts a new life, which is adopted on the spot, and which soon
appears quite natural, from being in perfect harmony and fitness with
everything around, however strange to all previous habits and notions ',
it takes the conceit out'of a man for the rest of his life-it makes him
bear and forbear. There is just a dash of difficulty and danger to give
dignity to the adventure : but how soon does all that was disagreeable
fade from the memory, while all that was pleasant alone remains—nay,
even hardships, when past, become bright passages to the recollection.
It is a capital practical school of moral discipline, just as the hardiest
* In the first edition of this Handbook the whole subject of a riding tour, horses, servants,
and modus operandi is discussed at much length.
Spain. IX. memo roun. 39
mariners are nurtured in the roughest seas. Then and there will be
learnt golden rules of patience, perseverance, good temper, and good
fellowship: the individual man must come out, for better or worse ; on
these occasions, where wealth and rank are stripped of the aids and
appurtenances of conventional superiority, he will draw more on his
own resources, moral and physical, than on any letter of credit; his
wit will be sharpened by invention-suggesting necessity. Then and
there, when up, about and abroad, will be shaken off dull sloth. Action!
will be the watchword. The traveller will blot out from his Spanish
dictionary the fatal phrase of procrastination— by-and-by, a street
which leads to the house of nez-er, “per la calle de olespues, se va :2 la
oasa ole nunca.” Reduced to shift for himself, he will see the evil of
waste, “ sol vertida, mmca b-ien cogida ;” the folly of improvidence and
the \visdom of order, “ quien bien ata, him desata ; ” fast bind, fast un
bind. He will whistle to the winds the paltry excuse of idleness, the “ no
se puede,” the “ it is impossible ” of Spaniards. He will soon learn, by
grappling with difficulties, how they are best to be overcome,-—how soft
as silk becomes the nettle when it is sternly grasped, which would
sting the tender-handed touch,-—h0w powerful an element of realising
the object proposed, is indomitable volition, and the moral conviction
that we can and will accomplish it. He will never be scared by shadows
thin as air! when one door shuts another opens, “ cuando unapuerta ce
cierm, otra se abre,” and he who pushes on surely arrives, “ guien no cansa
alcanza.” These sorts of independent expeditions are equally conducive
to health of body: after the first few days of the new fatigue are got
over, the frame becomes of iron, “ hecho ale bronce.” The living in the
pure air, the sustaining excitement of novelty, exercise, and constant
occupation, are all sweetened by the “ studio fallente laborem,” which
renders even labour itself a pleasure; a new and vigorous life is infused
into every bone and muscle; early to bed and early to rise, if it does
not make all brains wise, at least invigorates the gastric juices, makes
a man forget that he has a liver, that storehouse of mortal misery—
bile, blue pill, and blue devils. This health is one of the secrets of
the amazing charm which seems inherent to this mode of travelling in
spite of all the apparent hardships with which it is surrounded in the
abstract. Escaping from the meshes of the west end of London, we
are transported into a. new world ; every day the out-of-door panorama
is varied ; now the heart is cheered and the countenance made glad by
gazing on plains overflowing with milk and honey, or laughing with
oil and wine, where the orange and citron bask in the glorious sun
beams. Anon we are lost amid the wild magnificence of Nature, who,
careless of mortal admiration, lavishes with proud indifference her fairest
charms where most unseen, her grandest forms where most inaccessible.
Every day and everywhere we are unconsciously funding a stock of
treasures and pleasures of memory, to be hived in our bosoms like
the honey of the bee, to cheer and sweeten our after-life ; which, delight
fuLeven as in the reality, wax stronger as we grow in years, and feel
that these feats of our youth, like sweet youth itself, can never be our
portion again. Of one thing the reader may be assured—that dear
will be to him, as is now to us, the remembrance of these wild and
joyous rides through tawny Spain, where hardship was forgotten ere
-10 ix. MINERAL nuns. Sect. I.
undergone: those sweet-aired hills—those rocky crags and torrents-—
those fresh valleys which communicate their o\vn freshness to the
heart—that keen relish for hard fare won by hunger—the best of
sauces--those sound slumbers on harder couch, earned by fatigue, the
downiest of pillows—the braced nerves—the spirits light, elastic, and
joyous—that freedom from care—tliat health of body and soul which
ever rewards a close communion with Nature—and the shufliing off
the frets and factitious wants of the thick-pent artificial city.
MINERAL Barns.
These are very numerous, and have always been much frequented.
In every part of the Peninsula such names as Oaldas, the Roman
Calidas, and Alhama, the Arabic Al-hdmiin, denote the continuance of
baths, in spite of the changes of nations and language. From Al
hamfin, the Hhamman of Cairo, the name of our comfortable Covent
Garden Hummums is derived; but very different are the Spanish
accommodations, which are mostly rude, inadequate, and inconvenient.
The Junta Suprema de Sanidad, or Olficial Board of Health, has pub
lished a list of the names of the principal baths, and their proper
seasons. At each a medical superintendent resides, who is appointed
by government; and who will swea.r—if given a double fee—that his
waters in particular will cure every evil under the sun.
O

Names of Baths. Province. Vicinity. Seasons.

Chielana . . . . Andalncia. Cadiz. June to Oct.


Paterna de la Rivera . do. Medina Sidonia. June to Sept.
Arenocillo . . . do. Cordova. do. do.
- May to June.
Horca_]o . - . . do. do. {Aug to Sept
Alhzima . . . . do. Granada. ‘?oJ6?§'
Graena . . . . do. Purullena. I22/l3g_t€o'h3:;:
Lanjaron . . . . do. Lanjaron. May to Sept.
Sierra Alamilla . . do. Almeria. {g€:)3t"_t?OJ6:§_'
Guarda vieja . . . do. ~ do. do. do. -
Marmolejo - . . do, Jaen. {gels-t‘ tt(:)‘k':$‘

Frailes . . . . do. do. June to Sept.


Carratraca . . . do. Malaga. do. do.
Archena . . . . Murcia. Murcia. {§el;)rt'_t?oJ‘(1)I:i'
Busot .4 . . . . Valencia. Alicante. ta)J3:f'
Belliis . . . . . do. Xativa. t€oJ81;€'

Villa vieja . . . do. Castellon. {Xjg_‘,‘,’;;g{:


Caldas de Monbuy . Catalonia. Mataro.
Olesa y Esparraguera do. Barcelona. July to Sept.
Spain. x. sxsnsrox "rouns. 41

Names of Baths. Province. Vicinity. Seasons.

Alhama . . . Arragon. Calatayud. June to Sept.


Quinto . . . . . do. Zaragoza. May to Sept.
Tiermas . . . . do. Cinco-villas. do. do.
Pauticosa . . . . do. Huesca. Juue to Sept.
Secura . . . . do. Daroca. May to Sept.
Fitero . .
SI-Iervideros .. .. .. Navarre.
La Mancha. Painplona.
Ciudad Real. do. to Sept.
June do.
Fuencaliente . . . do. do. May to June.
Solan de Cabras . . New Castile. Cuenea. J une to Sept.
Sacedon . . . . do. Guadalajara. do. do.
Trillo . . . . . do. do. do. do.
El Molar . . . do. Madrid. do. do.
Ledesma . . . . Old Castile. Salamanca. ' do. do.
Arnedillo . . . . do. Logroiio_ do. do.
Alange '. . . . Estremadura. Badajoz. do. do.
Monte mayor . . . do. Caceres. do. do.
Arteijo . . . . Gallicia. La Coruiia. July to Sept.
Lugo . - . . ~ do. do. ' June to Sept.
Carballiuo . . . do. Orense. July to Sept.
Cortegada . . . do. do. June to Sept.
Caldas de Reyes . . do. Pontevedra. July to Sept.
Caldelas de Tuy . . do. do. do. do.
Cestona . . . . Guipuzcoa. - - June to Sept.
' La Hermida . . . Asturias. Santander. do. do.

X.—SKELETON Totms.
The Peninsula may also be divided into regions which contain
peculiar objects of interest. The vestiges of epochs run in strata,
according to the residence of the different nations who have occupied
Spain; thus the Roman, Moorish, and Gotho-Spaniard periods are
marked by evidences distinguishing and indelible as fossils.
N0. 1. A Roman ANTIQUABIAN Toes.
Seville. June. Coria, R. Valencia, C.
ltaliea, R. Plasencia, R. Murviedro, C.
Rio Tinto, R. Capara, R. July. Tarragona, C. S.
May. Merida, R. Salamanca, R. Barcelona, C. S.
Alcantara, R. Segovia, R. Martorell, C.
Aleonetar, R. Toledo, C. I
N0. 2. A Moomsn ANTIQUARIAN Tova.
Seville. June. Granada, C. June. Malaga, R.
May. Cordova, C. Alhama, R. Tarifa, R. S.
Jaen, C.
Towns ron NATUBALIST8.
The natural history of Spain has yet to be really investigated and‘
described. This indeed is a subject worthy of all who wish to “ book
something new,” and the soil is almost virgin. The harvest is rich,
and although labourers have long been wanting, able pioneers have
broken the ground, and a. zealous band is following. The great extent
and peculiar conformation of the Peninsula. otfer every possible scope
42 x. BOTANICAL rouns. Sect. I.
to the geologist and botanist. The damp valleys of the Asturias and
the western provinces combine the varieties of Wales and Switzerland ;
the central portions contain the finest cereal regions in the world, while
the mountains of Andalucia, covered with eternal snow, fumish an
entire botanical range from the hardiest lichen to the sugar-cane
which flourishes at their bases: vast districts of dehesas, or abandoned
tracts, bear in spring time the aspect of a hot-house growing wild;
such is the profusion of flowers which waste their sweets, noted and
gathered but imperfectly, in this Paradise of the wild bee, this garden
of weeds, albeit the Barbaries Botanica Hisparrica, complained of by
Linnaeus, is now in a fair way to be eradicated, and this very much
by foreigners, as the Spaniard, like the old Romans and the Oriental,
is little sensible to the beauties of nature for herself, when unconnected
with the idea of his pleasure or profit——garden or farm; and an
antipathy to trees forms quite a second Castilian nature.
Consult on the Flora Hispanica, the works of Quer Cavanillas and
those named by Miguel Colmeiro, 8v0. 1846, in his list of Spanish
botanical books. The botanist and entomologist may peruse with
advantage the Ret'se—L‘rinnerungen aus Spanien, by E. A. Rossmiissler,
2 vols., Leipzig, 1854, especially on the subject of snails.
Naturalists-—happy men—for whom Nature spreads a bountiful
banquet, whose infinite variety neither time nor man can destroy,
should by all means ride on their excursions. Much of the best ground
is totally uncarriageable. Remember, above all things, to bring all
necessary implements and scientific appliances with you from England,
as neither they nor their pursuits are things of Spain.
The eastern and southern portions of Spain should not be visited
before May, or the northern much before June.
To geology, a new science even in Europe, the Moro-Spaniards are
only beginning to pay attention-—mining excepted—and even there again
theforeigner has dug up his share at least of treasure buried in the native
napkin. \Vhat a new and wide field for the man of t-he hammer!
Here are to be found the marbles with which the Romans decorated
their temples, the metal-pregnant districts which, in the hands of the
Carthaginians, rendered Spain the Peru and California of the old world !
We are enabled, by the kindness of Sir Roderick Murchison, to
ofifer the substance of various memoirs and notices on the geological
structure and sedimentary deposits of Spain, prepared chiefly by Mon
sieur de Verneuil, his intelligent collaborateur in Russia. The central
part of Spain is distinguished by 3 chains of mountains which con
stitute the skeleton of the country, the Guadarrama, the Montes cle
Toledo, and the Sierra Morena. Having emerged before the secondary
period, these ridges formed islands, in each of which are traces of
silurian or other palzeozoic rocks, and around which were accumulated
the Jurassic and the cretaceous deposits.
Primary roclcs.—One the highest of these, the Guadarrama, is princi
pally composed of granite, gneiss and other crystalline schists. Towards
the E. these disappear under the sedimentary formations, whilst to the
W. they proceed to the frontier of Portugal. The primary rocks occur
in two other and very distant parts of Spain. The province of Gallicia
is principally composed of granite, gneiss and mica-schist, occasionally
surrounding patches of slate and limestone; these rocks are of great
_~
Spain. x. GEOLOGY or smrs. 43
antiquity,’ and form a sort of expansion of the palaeozoio chain of Can
tabria. The Sierra Nevada, S. E. of Granada, offers an example of a >~-—.1.r_-—,Q~|4.v=-_,r.—*
great mass of crystalline schists. The abundance of garnets in the
mica-schist, the crystalline structure and magnesian condition of the
thick band of limestone which surrounds the central part, indicate the
energy of the metamorphic action which has here taken place.
Paloeozoic rocks:-The Sierra Morena is the tract in which most of
the Silurian fossils have been discovered. This range is composed of
slates, psammites, quartzites and sandstones; the strata often placed
by violent dislocations in a vertical position. Making a section across i
the chain N. to S., the formations succeed each other in an ascending
order. The oldest or lowest traces of life, trilobites, occur in black
shivery slates. The upper Silurian rocks are poorly represented in
the Sierra Morena, the Devonian rocks more fully. The carboniferousi
deposits, situated towards its southern part, contain great masses of lime
stone. The two sides of the Sierra Oantabrica in Leon and the Asturias,
present deposits of Devonian fossils, and ofl'er points of pilgrim
age for all palaeontologists. These Devonian rocks constitute the
axis of the Sierra Cantabrica on its southern side, and are covered in
the Asturias or on the N. by the richest coal-field of Spain. In general
the carboniferous strata are vertical ; this disadvantage is lessened by the
mountainous relief of the country, in some parts of which the beds of‘
coal can be worked 1200 or 1300 feet above the level of the streams.
The depth of the whole group may be estimated at 10,000 or 12,000 feet..
No fossils of the Permian rocks have ever been found in Spain, but
the analogy of rocks and stratigraphical indications have referred to that
formation the red magnesian limestone, and the gypsiferous marls of‘
Montiel, of the lakes of Ruidera, and the famous cave of Montesinos in
La Mancha.
Secondary rocks.—'T‘he Trias triple may be traced from the Pyrenees
to the provinces of Santander and Asturias, but it does not contain the
3 series of rocks from which the name originated; and the muschel
kalk being entirely wanting, it is reduced to marls and sandstones of '
red colour placed between the lias and the carboniferous strata. The»
Jurassic and cretaceous groups extend over most of the eastern and"
southern part of Spain, covering vast areas in Catalonia, Arragon,
Valencia, Murcia, Malaga and Ronda; lying upon the red sandstone,
they constitute most of the high lands and mountains which to the E.
of Madrid make the divortia aqum-um between the Atlantic and the
Mediterranean sea ; they surround the central and more ancient parts -,_
along the Guadarrama the chalk penetrates into the very heart
of the country. It will prove a hard task to separate the Jurassic‘
and cretaceous rocks of Spain; especially in the S., where the meta
morphic action has produced so many alterations in the rocks, and has i
so obliterated the fossils. The districts of Malaga and Ronda seem to- 1
possess a geological constitution very analogous to that of the Venetian i
Alps. In effect, beneath the miocene and nummulitic rocks, rises it
compact white limestone not to be distinguished from the Italian scaglia
and biancone, succeeded near Antequera and other places by a marble
of reddish colour full of Ammonites, which may be compared to the‘
Oxfordian Ammonitico rosso of the Italians.
In the eastern regions, mountains more than 5000 feet high are com-
-14 g x. ononoor or seam. Sect. I.
posed of triassic, Jurassic, and cretaceous rocks. The greatest part of
the Jurassic fossils belong to the upper lias. The Oxfordian Jura
occurs at Teruel; but at present the up rpart of the oolitic series, or
the Portlandian group, is unknown. '1 he same may be said of the
Neocomian rocks. The chalk of Spain appears to consist only of the
hippuritic limestone and seems to correspond with the upper greensand,
but not with the Neocomian or lower greensand. Above the chalk,
and, having, apparently been submitted to the same disturbances, lie
the nummulitic rocks, the true lower and eocene well exposed in the
province of Santander. At Malaga a great discordance may be observed
between the nummulitic limestone and the miocene, or younger and
older tertiary deposits, the first being highly contorted and the second
slightly inclined.
The younger tertiary rocks cover vast areas in Spain; generally
horizontal and extending in vast plains, they contrast strongly with the
secondary and nummulitic, or older tertiary beds, which are always
" contorted and form undulating or mountainous countries. All the great
valleys of the Ebro, the Douro, the Tagus, the Guadiana and the Gua
dalquivir, have been bottoms of seas, estuaries or extensive lakes. The
purely freshwater deposits cover a larger area than the marine ones,
extending over Old and New Castile from the Cantabrian chain to the
Guadarrama, and from the Guadarrama to the Sierra Morena through
the great plains of the Mancha. In some places these deposits reach
the altitude of 2500 feet ; thus proving ho\v great elevation Spain has
undergone even in recent times ; recent in effect, to judge by the
freshwater fossil shells, identical with those living 'now, and by the
bones of great mammoths discovered in the Oerro San Isidro, near
Madrid. Most of the marine deposits, and especially those of the
basin of the Guadalquivir, are miocene, and upon them lie here and
there some small pliocene, or newer pliocene (modern) deposits, formed
on the maritime shore and composed of pebbles and fragments of an
Ostrea resembling the living species. It was probably in the most
recent of these periods that the extinctvolcanos of the Peninsulabroke out.
Three foci of eruption are known; one at the cape of Gata, the other
in the neighbourhood of Ciudarl Real, and the third near Olot in Catalonia.
The geology of Spain is not sufiiciently advanced to attempt a classi
fication of its mountains considered with respect to their periods of
elevation. The Sierra Morena is probably the most ancient; for on both
its sides the tertiary strata in contact with the old rocks are horizontal.
Near Cordova, for example, the miocene beds with the huge Olypeaster
altus are to be seen in that position, and on the northern side at Santa
Cruz de Mudela horizontal bands of freshwater limestone loaded with
Helix, lie upon highly inclined, trilobite Silurian schists. More recent
movements have taken place in the Guadarrama; since at the southern
foot of tliat high range, and on the road from Madrid to Burgos, the
same freshwater limestone is slightly elevated. In the Pyrenees, as
well as in the mountains which rise in the most southern part of Spain,
the subsoil has been fractured by violent and recent disturbances. The
tertiary formations of the Ebro, and those of Leon along the Cantabrian
chain, are often much elevated. In Leon they are even vertical near
the chain, but soon resume their horizontality to range over the great
plains of Castile.
Spain. X. SKELETON 'rour.s. - 45
No. 3. Gnonoercar. AND Mmnnanoercsn Tons.
Villa Nueva del Rio Coal Minglanilla . . . Salt
Spring. Rio Tlnto . . Copper Summer. Teruel . . . Fossils
L0grosan.Phosph.of Lime Caudete. . . Fossils
Almaden . . Quicksilver Albarracin . . . Iron
Linares . . . . Lead Daroca . . . . Iron
. Baeza . . . . Lead Calatayud . . . Iron
Granada . . . Marbles Spring. Tortosa . . . Marbles‘
Berja . . . . . Lead Cardona . - . Salt
Spring Marbella . . . . Iron Ripoll .- . . . Iron
or Macacl . . . Marbles Durango . . . Iron
Autumn.C-artagena . . Silver Summer. Bilbao . . . . Iron
Helliu . . . Sulphur Biscay . . . . Iron
Petrola - . . . Salt . Gijon . . . . Coal
No. 4. A Tons or THE CREAM or SPAIN.
May. Cadiz, S. June. Granada, C. or R. Valencia, C.
Xerez, C. Madrid, C. July. Tarragona, C. S.
Seville, S. Avila, C. Barcelona, C. S.
Cordova, C. Escorial, C. Cardona, R.
Osuna, R. Segovia, C. Igualada, R.
Ronda, R. Toledo, C. Aug. Zaragoza. C.
Gibraltar, R. Aranjuez, C. Burgos, C.
Malaga, S. July. Cuenca, R. Irun, C.
This tour comprehending samples of every city and scene, will enable
the traveller on his return to talk competently on the things of Spain.
No. 5. A SuMm:n’s Tova IN THE Norvrn or SPAIN. <
Irun, C. Jul; . Logrofio, C. Monserrat, R.
Vitoria, C. Pamplona, C. Aug. Cardona, R.
June. Bilbao, C. Pyrenees, R. Urgel, R.
Santauder, R. S. Zaragoza, C. Gerona, R.
Burgos, C. Barcelona, C. Perpiflan, C.
A pleasant long-vacation trip to the angler and water-colour painter.
No. 6. A CE.\"rn.\r. Tom: BOUND Mnnnrn.
Avila, C. July. Plasencia, R. Aug. Aranjuez, C.
Escorial, C. Aug. Yuste, R. Sept. Cuenca, R.
Segovia, C. Alcantara, R. Albarracin, R.
July. Valladolid, R. Merida. R. Solan de Cabras, R.
Salamanca, R. Talavera, R. Guadalajara, C.
Ciudad Rodrigo,R. Toledo, R. AlcaladeHenares,C.
Batuecas, R. ~ '
This home circuit, which includes some of the noblest mediaeval and
truly Spanish cities, some of the most picturesque and historically
interesting sites, is doubly refreshing to mind and body after the
withering, dessicating influence of a residence at Madrid.
No. 7. Arr Arvrrsrrcsr. Toun—'rnn Prcruansoun.
As Spain, despite of our Roberts and Vllests, continues still much in
the dark ages of Indian-ink in these matters; artists, to whose benefit this
Handbook aspires, should, before leaving England, lay in a stock of
materials, such as block-books, liquid water-colours, camel-hair brushes,
permanentwhite, and good lead-pencils.—N.B. Before using them,attend
46 x. srusnnrox TOURS. Sect. I.
to our suggestions at page 14, and prepare for meeting little sympathy
from the so-called better classes. Often, in truth, will the man of the
pencil sigh, and say, why will not the people show us themselves, their
real homes, and ways P why will they conceal what the rest of the world
wishes most to see and sketch? Servile imitators of the foreigner, whom
they affect to despise, they seem in practice to deny their fatherland and
nationality. They bore us with their pale copies of the long-tailed
coats of London, and the commonplace columns of the Paris Bourse.
They deluge us with all we abhor, and hide the attractive panorama
which Spain presents in her own dear self, when her children, all tag,
tassel, and filagree, dance under fig-tree and vine, while behind cluster
Gothic ruins or Moorish arches, scenes and sights ravishing to all eyes
save those of the Espaiiol ilustrado ; his newly enlightened and civilized
vision, blind to all this native beauty, colour, and originality, sees in
it only the degradation of poverty and decay; nay resenting the
admiration of the stranger, from which he infers some condescending
compliment to picturesque barbarians, he intreats the inspection of his
paletot, or drags him away to sketch some spick and span academical
abortion, to raise which some gem of ancient art has been levelled.
Ronda, R. Escorial, C. Santander, R.
Gibraltar, R. Avila, C. Bilbao, R.
Alhama. Plaseneia, R. Vera, R.
Malaga, R. Juste. Jaca, R.
Granada, R. Batuecas, R. Huesca, R.
Lanjaron, R. El Vierzo, R. P renees, R.
Elche, R. Cangas de Tineo, R. anresa, R.
Cuenca, R. Oviedo, R. Monserrat, R.
Albarraein, R. Pajares, C. Rosas, R.
Toledo, C. Reinosa, R.
Military and naval men, and all who take interest (and what
Englishman does not P) in the fair fame of our arms, must ever connect
the Peninsula with one great association, the \Var of Giants waged
there by Wellington, and all who desire to know the real rights of it,
may stow in their saddlebags the well-compiled Annals of the Penin
sular Campaigns, by Hamilton, revised by F. Hardman, 1849. Those
who cannot, will at least find that the author of this Handbook, who has
performed the pilgrimage to these hallo\ved sites, has, so far as limited
space permits, recorded fads.
No. 8. A Mrrmranv arm Navar. Tenn.
Cadiz . Burgos . .
Barrosa . . . Navarrete . . .
Trafalgar . . Espinosa. . . Old Came‘
Tarifa . . . Andalucia. Somosierra . ..
Gibraltar . . Rioseco . . .
Granada . . . Benavente . .
Navas de Tolosa Salamanca . . Leon.
Bailen. Ciudad Rodrigo
Castalla . . . El Bodon . .
Almansa . . . . La Corufia . .
Valencia . . V“1"“°‘“- Sail Payo . . G H. .
Murviedro - . Vigo . . . . a ma‘
Ordal. Cape Finisterre.
-Spain. x. sxsnsros TOURS. - 47
Barcelona . . Arroyo Moliuos .
Molins del Rey . Almaraz . . .
Bruch . . . Badajoz . . . Estremadura.
Rosas . . . - Albuera . . .
Gerona . . . Cataloma" Gevora . . .
Figueras . . Medellin.
Lérida . . . Talavera . . .
Almenara . . Madrid . . .
Belchite . . . Ocafia . . . New Castile.
Zaragoza . . l A"ag°n' - Ucles . . .
'Tudela . . . Villaviciosa. . .
Pamplona . . Navarre. Montiel . . .
Vera . . . . Ciudad Real. . La Mancha.
San Marcial . . Sierra Morena .
The Bidasoa. .
?Iae“mS£’ia5_“a? Basque provinces.
Vitoria. . . .
Bilbao . . .

No. 9. Suoormo AND Fisumo Tomas.


Although game is not preserved in Spain as among ourselves, it is
abundant ; nature, by covering the earth with aromatic brushwood in
vast extents of uninhabited, uncultivated land, has afforded excellent
cover to the wild beasts of the field and fowls of the air; they are
poached and destroyed at all seasons, and in every unfair manner, and
more for pot considerations, than sport—especially near the towns. The
feroe natures flourish, however, wherever the lords of the creation are rude
and rare. The game takes care of itself, and is abundant, not from being
strictly preserved, but from not being destroyed by scientific sportsmen.
Spain was always the land of the rabbit (wnejo), which the Phcenicians
saw here for the first time, and hence some have traced the origin of the
name Hispania, to the Sephan, or rabbit of the Hebrew. This animal
figured on the early coins of the cuniculosaa Oeltilberiw, (Catullus,xxxv.
18.) Large ships freighted with them were regularly sent from Cadiz for
the supply of Rome (Strabo, iii. 214). The rabbit is still the favourite
shooting of Spaniards, who look invariably to the larder. Pheasants
are very rare: a bird requiring artificial feeding cannot be expected
to thrive in a. country where half the population is underfed. Red
legged partridges and hares are most plentiful. The mouths of the
great rivers swarm with aquatic birds. In Andalusia. the multitude
of bustards and woodcocks is incredible. There is very little diffi
culty in procuring leave to shoot in Spain; a licence to carry a gun
is required of every native, but it is seldom necessary for an Eng
lishman. The moment a Spaniard gets out of town he shoulders
a gun, for the custom of going armed is immemorial. Gamc is
usually divided into great and small: the Gaza mayor includes
deer, venados, wild boars, javalis, and the chamois tribe, cabras mon
tarieses: by Gaza menor is understood foxes, rabbits, partridges, and
such like “ small deer.” Winter fowl is abundant wherever there is
water, and the flights of quails and woodcocks, codornioes y gallinetas,
quite marvellous. The Englishman will find shooting in the neigh
48 x. sxsuzrox rouns. Sect. I.
bourhood of Seville and Gibraltar. There is some difliculty in intro
ducing our guns and ammunition into Spain, even from Gibraltar.
The lover of the angle will find virgin rivers in Spain, that jumble
of mountains, down the bosoms of which they flow; most of these
abound in trout, and those which disembogue into the Bay of Biscay
in salmon. As good tackle is not to be procured in Spain, the angler
will bring out everything from England. The best localities are Pla
sencia, Avila, Cuenca, and the whole country from El Vierzo, Gallicia,
the Asturias, the Basque provinces, and Pyrenean valleys.

No. 10. DILLETANTE Touss.—ScULP'rusz.


Seville, S. Madrid, R. Rioseco, R.
Granada, C. Toledo, C. Valladolid, C.
Murcia, R. Escorial, C. Burgos, C.
Valencia, R. Avila, R. Zaragoza, C.
Cuenca, R. Salamanca, R. Huesca, R.

There is very little good ancient sculpture in Spain, and there never
was much ; for when the Peninsula became a Roman province, the arts
of Greece were in the decline, and whatever sculpture was executed here
was the work either of Romans or Spaniards, who never excelled in that
art. Again, most of whatever statuary was introduced into the Penin
sula by the Trajans and Adrians, was destroyed by the Vandal Goths,
who, as Christians, abhorred the graven images of pagan gods, and
hated Rome, its works, and especially those connected with the fine
arts, to which they attributed degeneracy and etfeminacy; thus, when
they struck down the world-oppressor, they cast the statues of its chiefs
from the pedestal, and the idols from the altar. The Goth was sup
planted by the Moor, to whose creed iconoclasm was essential ; he swept
away whatever had escaped from his predecessor; nay, the pagan
fragments and papal substitutes were alike treated with studied insult,
either buried, to prevent resurrection, in the foundations of their build
ings, or worked in as base materials for their city walls. The Spaniards
as a people have no great archaeological tendency. Born and bred in a
country whose soil is strewed with the ruins of creeds and dynasties,
and their edifices,theyview the relics with the familiarity and contempt of
the Bedouin,
i excavate as old
at all, it isstones, which
in hopes of he neither
finding admires
buried nor preserves;
hoards if they
of coin ; accord
ingly, whenever mere antique remains are dug up, they have too often
been reburied, or those which any rare alcalde of taste may have collected,
are left at his death to chance and decay; in the provincial towns the
fragments are lumpei together after the fashion of a mason’s stoneyard.
Classification and arrangement are not Spanish or Oriental qualities.
The Church, again, almost the sole patron of sculpture, only encou
raged that kind which best served its own purpose. She had little
feeling for ancient art for itself, which, if over-studied, necessarily
has a tendency to reproduce a heathen character and anti-Christian.
Cathedral and convent also, who had their own models of Astartes,
Minervas, and Jupiters, in their images of the Virgin and saints,
abhorred arival idol. Thus Florez and other antiquarians (the best of
whom have been clergymen and busied about the archaeology of their
Spain. x. smnrsn SCULPTURE. 49
own Church and religion constantly apologise for bestowing attention
on such un- Christian inquiries. '
The historical research of Spaniards has hitherto been seldom critical ;
they loved to flounder about Tubal and Hercules; and when people
have recourse to mythology, it is clear that history will not serve their
ends. The discussion and authenticity of a monk’s bone have long
been of more importance than a relic of Phidias. Yet Spain may be
said to be “potted ” for antiquarians, as the conservative climate of
many portions of the Peninsula rivals even that of Egypt, in the absence
of damp, “ your whoreson destroyer.” Thus Roman bridges, aqueducts,
tanks, and causeways exist in actual use, almost unimpaired ; nay, even
the fragile Tarkish, the plaster-of-Paris wall-embroidery, the “ diaper,
or pargetting,” of the Moors, often looks, after the lapse of ten centuries,
wherever man has not destroyed it, almost as fresh and perfect as when
first put up. The catena of monuments from the cradle of the restored .-_-.
monarchy is almost complete; and, such is the effect of climate, that
they even disappoint from lacking the venerable aerugo of age to which
we are accustomed in a less beneficent climate; so many things in Spain
look younger by centuries than they really are.
The best and most national sculpture of Spain is either mediaeval or
consists of religious subjects, sepulchral monuments or graven images ;
unfortunately many of the former, from being placed in convents founded
expressly for the burial place of nobles and prelates, were first mutilated
by the enemy and have perished since the suppression of monasteries.
The Spanish name for a site or vault destined to many burials of one
family, is oddly enough termed a Pantheon. Some of the most mag
nificent mausoleums were executed by Italian artists from Genoa and
Florence, to whom several Spaniards proved worthy rivals. These
memorials are among the choice things to be observed. The Christian
sentiment rules impressively in them; there is no aping the creed or
costume of Pagan antiquity,—-everything speaks of the orthodox faith
of the period and people ; the prelate and the soldier alike lie stretched
on the bed of death, and the hands clasped in prayer, now that sword
and crozicr are laid aside, indicate a trust in another life. Emblems of
human fragility they lay flat and dead, while faith was alive: but as
infidelity crept in, worldly pride kept pace, and sepulchral figures began
to rise, first on elbows, then on seats, to stand boldly bolt upright at
last.
Many of these fine Spanish sepulchres have been carefully and accu
rately drawn by Don Valentin Carclerera, to be hereafter, we trust,
engraved, and thus in some sort preserved.
Smnrsn SCULPTURE.
Spanish sculpture is so peculiar in one branch, and has hitherto been
so little critically considered, that the attention of the scholar and
archaeologist may be called to it in apage or two. This branch includes
the holy images, and these Simulacros y Imagenes, are as little changed in
name and object as the simulacra et imagines of the Pagan Romans.
Some are destined to be worshiped in niches and on altars, others to
be carried about in the streets by cofradias, or brotherhoods, for adora
tiog duringIrelig'i0l18 ceremonies, and especially during passion week,
PAIN.— . D
50 x. sraxrsn nsuoxous SCULPTURE. Sect. I.
whence such graven figures are called Pesos. They are the identical
goava, the ¢¢8wAa, the idols which the lust of the human eye required,
the deli or cheats of the devil, whence S. Isidoro derives the name of
an invention which nowhere now rules more triumphantly than in his
own Seville.
The great demand for these carvings has induced many first-rate
artists in Spain to devote themselves to this branch of sculpture ; hence
Cano, Montafies, Roldan, Becerra, Juni, and Fernandez rank exactly
as Daedalus, Emilis, and others did among the ancients. The fine
specimens of their works have a startling reality; the stone statues of
monks actually seem fossils of a once living being; many others are
exquisitely conceived and executed; unfortunately, from the prudery of
Spanish draperies, much of the anatomical excellence is concealed
from being dressed and painted; strictly speaking, they attempt too
much. The essence of statuary is form, and to clothe a statue, said
Byron, is like translating Dante: a marble statue never deceives; the
colouring it does, and is a device beneath the severity of sculpture.
The imitation of life may surprise, but, like colossal toys, barbers’
blocks, and wax-work figures, when bad, it chiefly pleases the ignorant
and children of a large or small growth, to whom a painted doll gives
more pleasure than the Apollo Belvidere. The resemblance is obvious,
and cannot give pleasure, from want of the transparency of skin and
the absence of life. The imitation, so exact in form and colour, suggests
the painful idea of a dead body, which astatue does not. Most of
these images appear to strangers at first revolting or ridiculous; but
the genius of the Spaniard seeks the material and natural rather than
spiritual and ideal, and the masses require objects of adoration suited
to their defective taste and knowledge, so their sapient church has largely
provided for their cravings—hence the legions of tinsel caricatures of
the human and divine which encumber the houses of God, but which
delight and affect the nation at large, much more than a statue by
Phidias. The illiterate congregations gaze with a sincere faith; they
come to worship, not to criticise, and bow implicitly down, with all
their bodies and souls, before the stocks and stones set up for them by
theinpastors and masters. The devotional feeling prevails entirely over
the aesthetic; and at all events these tangible and bodily representations
of persons and events connected with the Scriptures and church legends,
realised them to those who could see, but not read, and thus did their
work well before the schoolmaster was abroad. Now they have served
their turn, and when the dislocated and desecrated groups are moved from
the temple to the museum, for which they were never intended—when
they are thus placed in a secular gallery, the original sentiment is lost,
as well as the fitness and meaning of the religio loci. In their original
chapels they had a speaking reference to the tutelar patron or miracle;
but the cheat, of their tinsel colours and clothing, which was concealed
in the solemn semi-gloom, is revealed in the broad daylight, and they
look like monks turned out of their convent into the wide world.
Many of the smaller fioaua are preserved in glass cases, after the
fashion of surgical preparations.
The works of the following sculptors are the best deserving of notice;
they flourished or died about the period affixed to their names, as given
by Cean Bermudez, to whom refer for details :— ~
_..-i
Spain. X. SPANISH PAINTED SCULPTURE. 51
Mateo, El Maestro 1188 Berruguete, Alonso 1545 Juni, Juan de .. . . 1585
Aleman, Juan . . . . 1460 Tordesillas, Gaspar Trezzo, Jacome. . . 1589
Dancart, El Maestro 1495 dc ....... .--- 1545 Jordan, Esteban . . 1590
Florentin, Miguel. 1510 Machuea, Pedro. . . 1545 Leoni, Pompeyo . . 1605
Torrigiano, Pedro. 1520 Xamete.......... 1550 Hernandez, Gre
Bartolomé, El Leoni, Leon. . . . . . 1555 gorio . . . -¢-.-1. 1635
Maestro 1 520 Villal ando, Franco 1561 Pereyra, Manuel. . 1645
Ferment, Damien . 1525 Siloe,€)iego de . . . 1562 Montafies, Juan
Valdelvira, Pedro . 1540 Tudelilla . . . . . . . . 1566 Martinez . . - . . . 1645
Copin, Diego and Morel, Bartolomé . 1566 Cano, Alonso. . . . . 1650
Miguel I540 Becerra, Gaspar . . 1566 Roldan, Pedro. . . . 1650
Borgofia, Felipe de 1543 Ancheta, Miguel de 1 575

The Spanish painted and dressed images so precisely tally in material,


form, painting, dressing, and adoration, with those of Pagan antiquity,
that the scholar will pardon a few more remarks, which those who will
not, can skip, or turn to the Académie des Inscriptions, xxxiv. 35 ; to
Quatremere de Quincy, Jup. Oly. p. 8, s. 9 ; and particularly to Miiller,
Hand-buch der Kunst (1830), p. 42 et seq. Statues of marble were a
late introduction in Italy (Plin. Nat. Hist., xxxiv. 7), and are still
very rare in Spain. Cedar and the resinous woods were older and
preferred from the “ eternity of the material” (Plin. Nat. Hist., xiii. 5).
The Cyllenian Mercury was made of the arbor vitae, Gvou, the exact
Alerce of Spain. When decayed they were replaced. Pliny, jun. (Ep.
ix. 39), writes to his architect, Mustius, to make or get him a new
Ceres, as the old one was wearing out. Pausanias (ii. 19. 3) mentions
the gnaw of Argos, the work of Attalus the Athenian, just as Ponz
would cite the San Jeronimo of Montafies at Italica. It is difficult to
read Pausanias, and his accounts of the statues new and old, the temples
ruined and rebuilt, without feeling how much would suit a Greek hand
book for Spain, mutatis mutandis, so many objects pointed out to notice
resemble each other in nature and condition. Some §oa|1a, as is the
case in Spain at this moment, were made of baked clay, term cotta,
because cheaper. Juvenal (Sat. xi. 116) and Josephus (contr. Ap. ii. 35)
laugh at these makeshifts. They, however, answered the purposes for
which they were intended just as well then as now. The ancient zfoava,
like the Spanish Pasos, had their prescriptive colours. As Be of Egypt,
like Pan, was painted red, Osiris, black and green, the Athena of Skiras,
white, and Apollo’s face was frequently gilded, so in Spain the Virgin
in her ‘ Purisima Concepcion’ is always painted in blue and white,
St. John is always dressed in green, and Judas Iscariot in yellow: “ and
so intimately,” says Blanco White (“ Letters,” 289), “is this circum
stance associated with the idea of the traitor, that it is held in universal
discredit.” Persons taken to execution are clad in yellow serge. That
colour was also adopted by the Inquisition for their sum benito, or dress
of heresy and infamy. The hair of Judas is always red, or of Rosalind’s
“ dissembling colour something browner than Judas’s.” Athenaaus
(v. 7), in that most curious account of the procession of the images of
Bacchus, mentions that his a-ya)\,u.a was clad in purple, and that of Nyssa
in yellow. Much of this chromatology, no doubt, is based on traditions
preserved by these rubrical formulae. The ancient temples, like the
V Christian churches in the middle ages, were painted with blue, vermilion
n 2
52 x. smxrsrr cuuncu muons. Sect. I.
and gilding, and, rightly in an art-istical point of view, it became neces
sary to dressand colour the images up to the general tone of everything
around them; they otherwise would have had a cold and inetiective
character. This colouring in Spain was deemed of such importance,
that Alonso Cano and Montafies generally stipulated that no one but
themselves should paint the figures which they carved, or give that
peculiar surface enameling called el estqfar. When properly carved
and consecrated, these figures were treated by the ancients, and now
are by the Spaniards, exactly as if they were living deities. Real
food was provided for them and their chaplains. They were washed
by attendants of their own sex. In Spain no man is allowed to undress
the Paso or sagrada imagen of the Virgin, which is an ofiice of highest
honour. Some images, like earthly queens, have their camarera major,
their mistress of the robes. This duty has now devolved on venerable
single ladies, and thence has become almost a term of reproach, ha
guealavlo para vestir imagenes,’ just as Turnus derides Alecto, when
disguised as an old woman, “ cura tibi eiiigies Divum, et templa tueri.”
The making and embroidering the superb dresses and “ Petticoats ” of
the Virgin afford constant occupation to the devout, and is one reason
why this Moorish manufacture still thrives pre-eminently in Spain.
Her costume, when the Pasos are home in triumphal procession through
the streets, forms the object of envy, critique, and admiration.
All this dressing is very Pagan and ancient. We have in Callimachus
the rules for toilette and oiling the hair of the fear/ov of Minerva; any
man who saw it naked was banished from Argos, a crime punished
in the myth of Aeteon and Diana. The grave charge brought against
Olodius by Cicero was, that he had profaned the Bona Dea by his
presence. The wardrobe of Eg ptian Isis was provided at the public
cost; and Osiris had his state-dress, iepov xo0'p.or/. The Peplum of
Minerva was the fruit of the five years’ work of Athenian matrons
and virgins. Gastae velamina Divae. The Roman signa were so well
dressed, that it was considered to be a compliment to compare a fine lady
to one. Plaut. Epid. (v. 1, 18). The ancients paid much more atten
tion to the decorum and propriety of costume than the Spaniards. In
the remote villages and in the mendieant convents the most ridiculous
masquerades were exhibited, such as the Saviour in a court-dress, with
wig and breeches, whereat the Due de St. Simon was so ofl'ended
(xx. l13). The traveller must learn to bear with stranger sights. If
once a people can be got to believe that a manequin is their god, if they
can get over this first step, nothing else ought to create either a smile
or surprise. These Pasos are brought out on grand occasions, prin
cipally during the Holy Week. The expense is great, both in the
construction and properties of the melo-dramatic machinery, and in
the number of persons employed in managing and attending the cere
monial. The French invasion, the progress of poverty and infidelity,
has tended to reduce the number of Pasos, which amounted, previously,
to more than fifty, for instance, in Seville. Every parish had its own
figure or group; particular incidents of our Saviour’s passion were
represented by companies, Ctfradias, Hermandades, who took the name
° The idol of Juggernaut, in even British India, had some 641 attendants:-120 cooks,
20 keepers of the wardrobe, and 3 persons to paint the eyebrows.
Spain. x. IMAGES or ins vmcm. 53
from the event: they were the iepq €0I!1] of the Rosetta stone, the
K(0]Mlfl'LaL of Clemens Alex. (Strom. v. 242), the ancient ertltpuu, the
Sodalitates, the unions, the Oollegia which in Rome were so powerful,
numerous, and well organized that Julius Caesar took care to put them
down (Suet. 42). The Sovereign of Spain is generally the Hermano
Jflayor. These guilds, lodges constituted on the masonic principle,
give an occupation to the members, and gratify their personal vanity
by rank, titles, and personal decorations, banners, emblems, and
glittering tomfoolery. The expenses are defrayed by a small subscrip
tion. The aifairs are directed by the Ten-iente Hermano Mayor nom
brado par S. M. There is no lack of fine sounding appellations or
paraphernalia, in which Spaniards delight.
Seville and Valencia still more, are the head-quarters of these Lect2's
term'a.,Anteludia, and processions. And really when a Protestant scholar
beholds them, and remembers his classical studies, time and space are
annihilated, he is carried back to Arnobius (lib. vii.), “ Lavatio Deum
matris est hodie, Jovis epulum oras est, lectisternium Cereris est idibus
proximis;” and the newspapers of the day now give just the same
sort of notices. The images are moved on platforms, Andas, and
pushed on by men concealed under draperies. The Pasos are quite as
heavy to the weary as were those of Bel and Nebo (Isaiah xlvi. 1).
Among the ancients, not only the images of the gods, but the sacred
boat of Osiris, the shrine of Isis, the ark of the Jews, were borne on
staves, just as now is done with the custodia in Spain. Those who wish
to compare the analogy and practice of the ancient and still existing
proceedings in Spain, are referred to the sixth chapter of Baruch,
wherein he describes the identical scenes and Babylonian Pasos— their
dresses, the gilding, the lights, &c.; or to Athenzeus (v. 7) and Apuleius
(Met. ii. 241), who, mutatis mutandis, have shown “ what to observe ”
and describe in Spain, especially as regards the Pasos of the Virgin.
Thus the Syrian Venus was carried by an inferior order of priests:
Apuleius calls them Pastoferi, the Spaniards might fairly term theirs
Pasoferi; Paso, strictly speaking, means the figure of the Saviour
during his passion. The Paso, however, of the Virgin is the most
popular, and her gold-embroidered and lace pocket handkerchief long
set the fashion for the season to the Andalucian dandyzettes, as the
procession of the Long-Champs does at Paris. This is the exact
Jllegalesia in honour of the Mother of the Gods, the Great Goddess
p.c'ya)\110zos, which took place in April (see Pitiscus, in voce, for the
singular coincidences) ; and the paso of Salambo, the Babylonian Astarte
Aphrodite (see Hesychius), was carried through Seville with all the
Phoenician rites even down to the 3rd century, when Santa Rufina and
Justina, the present patronesses of the cathedral tower, were torn to
pieces by the populace for insulting the image; and such would be
the case should any tract-distributing spinster fly in the face of the
Sagrada imagen de la. Virgen del mayor dolor y traspaso, which is now
carried at about the same time of the year through the same streets
and almost precisely in the same manner; indeed, Florez admits (E.
S. ix. 3) that this paso of Salambo represented the grief and agony
felt by Venus for the death of Adonis. A female goddess seems always
to have been popular among all Southrons and Orientals. Thus Venus
54 x. nrnnnrasrs 'I'OURS.——-PAINTING. Sect. I.
when carried in pomp round the circus, was hailed with the same
deafening applause (Ovid. Art. Am. i. 147) as the goddess Doorga,
when borne on her gorgeous throne, draws from the admiring Hindoos
at this day (Buchanan’s Resear. in Asia, p. 265), or the Virgin’s image
does at Seville. There is little new of anything under the sun, and
still less in human devices. Many a picturesque Papal superstition
has been anticipated by Paganism, as almost every bold vagary of Pro
testant dissent has been by the fanatics of the early ages of the church ;
whatever is found to have answered at one time will probably answer
at another, for poor human nature seldom varies in conduct, when
given circumstances are much the same.

No. 11.—DILLETAN'1‘E 'roUas.—PAn<'rrso.


Seville. Madrid, C. Valencia, C.
glfireiaisz three great schools of Spanish painting, Seville, Valencia,
an a ri , and the productions of their chief masters are best to be
studied in their own localities. Few cities in Spain possess good col
lections of pictures, and, with the exception of the capital, those which
do, are seldom enriched with any specimens offoreign schools, for such
is that of Valencia as regards Seville, and vice versfi. The Spaniards
have ever used their art as they do their wines and other gifts of the
soil ; they just consume what is produced on the spot and is nearest at
hand, ignorant and indifferent as regards all others, even be they of a
higher quality.
The earliest art in Spain, as exemplified in missals, ofi"ers no national
peculiarity. The first influence was produced by the family of the Van
Eyk’s, of whom John visited Portugal in 1428; and M. Gachard has
§lh10Wi?11hh€l.thh61VVBDl'1 on to the Alhambra to paint the Moorish kings.
‘ 1e a brief
after emis period
e ement ielded nationality
of Sypanisb to the Italian in the
faded 16th
into thecentury, which
French schooli
The general character, is Truth to Spanish nature, expressed in a grave,
religious, draped, and decent style, marked by a want of the ideal,
poetical, refined, and imaginative. The naturalistic imitation is carried
fully out, for the Church, the great patron, neither looked to Apelles or
Raphael, to Venus or the Graces: she employed painting to decorate
her churches, not private residences ; to furnish objects of devotion, not
of beauty or delight; to provide painted books for those who could see
and feel, but who could not read ; her aim in art was to disseminate and
fix on the popular memory, those especial subjects by which her system
was best supported, her purposes answered; and her Holy Tribunal
stood sentinel over author and artist: an inspector—censory veedor—
was appointed, whose duty it was to visit the studies of sculptors and
painters, and either to destroy or to paint over the slightest deviation
from the manner laid down in their rubric for treating sacred subjects:
for to change traditional form and attribute was a novelty and a heresy,
in fact a creating new deities. Spanish pictures, on the whole, will,
at first sight, disappoint all those whose tastes have been formed
beyond the Pyrenees; they improve upon acquaintance while one is
living in Spain, from the want of anything better: there, however, the
more agreeable subjects are seldom to be seen, for these naturally have
Spain. x.‘ DILLETANTE TOURS.—ARCHITECTURE. 55
been the first to be secured by foreigners, who have left the gloomy
and ascetic behind; thus, in- all the Peninsula, not ten [of Murillo’s
gipsy and beggar pictures are to be found, and the style by which he
is best known in England, is that by which he will be perhaps the
least recognised in his native land.
Our readers are most earnestly cautioned against buying pictures in
Spain; they will indeed be offered, warranted originals, by Murillo,
Velazquez, and so forth, more plentifully than blackberries, but caveat
emptor. The Peninsula has been so plundered of its best specimens by
the iron of Soults, Sebastianis, and Co. in war, and so stripped in peace
by the gold of purchasers, that nothing but the veriest dregs remain for
sale; the provincial galleries, Seville and Valencia excepted, prove to
demonstration by their absence of the good, and by the presence of un
mitigated rubbish, the extent to which the processes of removal and
collecting have been carried on. The best Spanish, and the almost
naturalised Spanish painters may now be named; the dates indicate
the epoch about which they flourished or died, as given by Cean Ber
mudez and Stirling, to Whom refer for details :—
Rincon, Antonio. .1500 Cespedes, Pablo de 1600 Valdez, Sebastian
Fernandez, Alejo .1525 Mascagio, Arsenic 1600 de Llanos . . . . . 1660
Gallegos,Fernando 1530 Joanes, Juan Vi Zurbaran, Fran
Campana, Pedro..1552 cente .1605 cisco.. ........l660
Vargas, Luis de . . 1565 Orrente, Pedro. . . 1620 Iriarte, Ignacio . .1660
Coéllo, Alonso San Roelas, Juan de Moya, Pedro. . . . .1660
chez.........-1565 18.5 ....-..---.1625 Arellano, Juan de.1670
Navarrete, Juan Espinosa, Geroni Bocanegra, Pedro
Fernandez . . . . - 15,70 mo Rodriguez . . 1630 Atanasio . . . - . . 1675
Morales, Luis de .1575 Bisquert, Antonio. 1630 Carrefio, Juan Mi
Theotocupuli, Do Diaz, Diego Va randa de. . . . . . .1680
menico, el Greco1578 lentin .........1640 Murillo, Bartolomé
Pardo, Blas del. . -1579 Cano, Alonso . . . . 1645 Esteban . . . . . . .1680
Villegas, Pedro de 1590 Herrera el Viejo. .1655 Herrera, El Mozo.1680
Ribalta, Francisco 1590 Ribera, Josef de . . 1655 Cerezo, Mateo. . . .1680
Pantoja de la Cruz, Velazquez, Diego Coello, Claudio . . 1680
Juan........-.1595 Silva de . . . . . . .1659 Goya............180O

Spain is no paradise for the Print-collector; calcography never


flourished on a. soil where the graver was too difficult for a people W114»
bungle when mechanical nicety is requisite. Flemings and foreigners
were usually employed. The native copper scratchers just supply
the coarse prints of Madonnas, miracle-working monks, &c. Th€Su
caricatures of art answered admirably as Dii cubioulares, and, hung up
in bedrooms, allured Morpheus and expelled nightmare; and now-a
days French artists are employed in lithographs, and any works
requiring skill.
No. 12.—BPANISH ARCHITECTURE.-—VARIETIEB AND rnnrons.
In despite of the ravages of foreign and domestic Vandals, Spain is still
extremely rich in edifices, civil and religious, of the highest class; yet
our architects and archaeologists almost ignore a land, which is inferior
to none, and superior to many countries in Europe, in variety and mag
56 x. STYLES or ARCHITECTURE. Sect. I.
nificence of specimens of every period, character, and quality. Moorish
architecture will be best studied in Andalucia, where noble specimens
of mosque, palatial fortress, castle, and private dwelling, remain ; suffice
it to name Seville, Cordova, and Granada. The earliest Spanish build
ings will be found in the Asturias, the cradle of the monarchy; they
are generally called Obrasde los Godos, works of the Goths—not Gothic,
or Tedesco, as they long preceded the use of the pointed arch. The
Romanesque, Byzantine, and in some districts the Norman, succeeded
and led to this later Gothic, and the examples scattered over the length
and breadth of the Peninsula are no less varied than splendid; there are
specimens of every period and phase of this glorious and most Christian
style, advancing in fulness of beauty until the beginning of the 16th
century, when it set at once in all its glory, to be followed by the resto
ration of the antique, or, as it is here called, the Grwco-Romano style.
The cinque-cento taSte—the exquisite Renaissance, pace Ruskin—wl1ich
grew out of this, was nowhere carried to more gorgeous profusion than
in Spain, then the dominant power of Europe. The semi-Moro genius
of the land lent itself readily to arabesque decoration and surface orna
mentation : the native quarries furnished precious materials, while the
New World lavished gold to defray the cost. This style was exalted
to its highest grade by a glorious host of Spanish artists, who rivalled
in marble and metal the Bramantes and Cellinis of Italy; from its deli
cate details, wrought like a finely-chiselled piece of plate, this style is
called in Spain el 1’late'reSc0, and also de Berruguete, from the name of
the great architect, sculptor, and painter, who carried it out to its full
perfection, and whose exquisite works are deserving of the closest
study.
The Plat/eresque period, which flourished under the Imperial Charles,
waned under his severe son, Philip II., who introduced the strictly
classical, and eschewed prodigality of ornament; this style is gene
rally known in Spain as that of Herrera, from being adopted by that
illustrious man, the builder of the Escorial. Architecture, which grew
with the monarchy, shared in its decline, and succumbed under the
influence of C'hur1'igu.e1'a,Wh0se name, like that of a heresiarch, has
become synonymous in Spain, with his doctrine and with all that is false
and vile in taste: thus el Ohurriguerismo, Olzurrigueresco, is used in
the sense of Rococo ; marble and wood were then tortured into absurd
caprice, and gilding plastered on with greater profusion than even in the
worst period of Louis XIV., when almost everything was a lie. There
is scarcely a village in Spain whose parish church has escaped the harpy
touch of this fatal epoch ; it was succeeded by the Graaco-Romano
academical style, with all its exclusiveness, pedantry, and prejudice,
introduced by the Bourbons, and practised at present. Hence the poor
conventionalities of their modern buildings, without soul, spirit, interest,
or nationality (Longe fuge !) ; yet these bald veneerings, coldly correct
and classically dull, are admired by Spaniards, who point them out to
the stranger’s notice, in preference to the nobler examples of the
Moorish, Gothic, and Cinque-cento periods, which too often have served
as “ quarries,” for when mere fashion rules, the one-idead exclusionists
“use up ” the monuments of better days as materials: the systematic
aversion to Moorish remains—Zos resabios ale los M0r0s—which has long
Spain. x. crnnr smmsn Aaourrncrs. 57
prevailed in Spain, is a remnant of the old leaven of antagonistic races :
the writings and admiration of foreigners for the relics of these elegant
Orientals have somewhat stayed the destroyer and pedant purist Iberian.
The lover of mediaeval architecture will be pained indeed in many
a city of Spain: her age of religious pomp has passed away, although
that of railways has scarcel begun. The length and breadth of the
land is strewed with ruins, t e fruits of this century’s double visitation,
when the toe of the modern reformer has trodden on the heel of the
Gallic invader. Ruin, in this respect the order of the day since the
Invasion and the Civil Wars, has culminated in the suppression of the
monastic orders, once the great patrons of the convent and cloister. While
in England the ravages committed at the Reformation are mantled with
ivy anda poetry and picturesqueness added by the gentle hand of Time
the great healer, in Spain the raw wounds gape bleeding in all their
recent hideousness. The Spaniard in the mass cares for none of these
things; living for himself, and from day to day, he neither respects the
dead nor their old stones, nor until the mischief was nearly done, was any
thought given to stay the evil : socorros ole Espafia, tarde 0 nunca. The
Memoria or Report of Valentin Carderera, Madrid, 1845, to the Commis
sioners of Historical and Artistical Morzuments, reveals the ravages
committed by foreign and domestic vandals, the apathy of local autho
rities, their “ no will and no way,” the want of funds everywhere.
The Espaiia Artistica y Monumental, 3 vols. folio, was published at
Paris, in 1846, by Genaro Perez Villamil, an artist of our Roberts’
school, having been got up in France, from want in Spain ot' litho
graphic-engravers. The balderdash portions of the letterpress were
“ done ” by an Afraneesado, Patricio Escosura. Assuming to be general,
the work is confined to the particular Castiles; many of the drawings
made by Don Valentin Carderera, an accurate and excellent Aragcnese
archaeologist, were so tampered with in the French polishing and
“ cooking,” that he retired from the concern in disgust. (See our
Review of this subject in the “ Quarterly,” CLIV. vi.)
Among the best architects of Spain the following may be mentioned.
The date marks the epoch about which they flourished or died, as given
by Cean Bermudez, to whom refer for details :-—

Tioda, or Fioda . . 840 Badajoz, Juan de .1512 Xamete -.....-..l55O


Mateo, Maestro . .1160 Maehuca, Pedro . .1520 Carpintero, Macias 1 560
Blay, Pedro. . . . . .1435 Ibarra, Pedro de. .1520 Villalpando, Fro. . 1560
Colonia, Juan de . 1442 Forment, Da.mien.1520 Herrera, Juan de . 1570
Gumiel, Pedro . . .1492 Ruiz, Fernan. . . . . 1520 Theotocupuli,Dom_l 575
Egas, Henrique . .1494 Borgofia, Felipe . . 1525 Monegro, J. B. . .1580
Araudia, Juan de . 1499 Colonia, Simon de 1525 Mora, Francisco. .1596
Berruguete,Alonso1500 Riafio, Diego. . . . .1525 Churriguera, José 1725
Andino, Cristobal. 1500 Valdelvira, Pedro. 1525 Juvara, Felipe . . .1735
Rodriguez, Alonso 1500 Yoli, Gabriel . . . .1525 Rodriguez, Ven
Gil de Houtanon, Siloe, Die o .. . . .1525 tura ..........1750
Juan..........1511 | Bedel, Pe ro. . . . .1550 Sabatini,Francisco 1 760
Covarrubias, Al“. . 1512 . Ezquerra, Pedro. . 1550

Some of the best works on these dilletante subjects—a prominent


feature in this book—will be found at p. 72.
n3
58 X. TECHNICAL CHURCH TERMS. SQCL I.

I\'o.13.—acc1.asror.oo1ca1. roun.
Seville, S. Madrid, C. Oviedo, R. S.
Cordova, C. Avila, R. Leon, R.
Jaeu, C. Escorial, R. Burgos, R.
Granada, C. Segovia, C. Zaragoza, C.
Madrid, C. Valladolid, R. Huesca. R.
Toledo, C. Salamanca, R. Barcelona, C.
Cuenca, R. Zamora, R. Tarragona, C. S.
Alcala de Henares, R. Santiago, R. Valencia, C. S.
The most remarkable churches and cathedrals will be found in this
route; the other examples worth observation will be pointed out at
their respective localities. As a general rule the student should care
fully examine the metropolitan cathedral of each see, as it will be
usually found to furnish the type of the minor collegiate and parochial
churches within the diocese; and although a general homogeneous style
marks architectural periods throughout the Peninsula, yet architecture,
like dialects and costume, has its localisms and provincialisms, which are
very pronounced in Spain, itself an aggregate of unamalgamating com
ponents.
The stranger may be made acquainted with some of the leading dis
positions and technical terms, as regards the Cathedrals of Spain, which
necessarily form a leading item in the “ what to observe" of intelligent
investigators, and one especial object of this Handbook; the exteriors
are often surrounded with a long platform, or lonja, which, if ascended
to by steps is called a gradus, “ grees ;” the principal front is fre
quently left unfinished, first in order to disarm the evil eye, and next
to serve as a constant pretext for begging pious contributions for its
completion. The western entrance commonly presents the chief facade,
and is called fachada principal; the naves, naves, are supported by
piers, pilones, from whence springs the roof, boveda. The side aisles,
alas, wings, are called Zaterales, co-laterales ; at the doorways is a pila,
stoup, or bénitier, which contains the agua bendita, or holy water, with
which, as the devil cannot abide it, every Spaniard crosses him or herself
on entrance, santiguanse. The quire, coro, is ordinarily placed in the
centre nave, thus blocking it up and concealing the high altar; its back,
which fronts the spectator who enters from the west, is called el
trascoro ; the lateral sides are called Zos respaldos del coro, over which
the organs are usually placed. The quire is lined with stalls, sillas ;
the seats, silleria del coro, are generally carved, and often most beauti
fully, as are the desks of the quin'ster’s books, los atriles, and the
lecterns or facistoles.
Opposite to the coro an open space marks the centre of the transept,
cruce-ro, over which rises the great dome, el cimborio; this space is called
the “entre los dos coros ;” it divides the quire from the high altar ; and is
usually isolated and fenced off by a reja, “ purclose,” or railing ; these
and the cancelli, gratings (whence comes our term chancel), are among
the most remarkable and artistical peculiarities of Spain, and, from
being made of iron, have happily escaped the melting-pot. The pulpits,
pulpitos, ambones, generally two in number, are placed in the angle
outside the chancel : they are fixed N.W.. and S.W., in order that the
Spain. x. rscrmrcsr. cannon reams. 59
preacher may face the congregation, who look towards the high altar,
without his turning his back to it. Ascending usually by steps is the
capilla mayor, el presbiterio, where is the high altar, el altar mayor, on
which is placed a tabernacle, el tabernaculo, or ciborio, under which
the consecrated wafer is placed in a viril, or open “ monstrance,” when
ever it is displayed, or mamfestado. When the wafer is not so ex
hibited, it is enclosed in a sagrario, or tabernacle. In some highly
privileged churches, as at Lugo and Leon, the wafer is continually dis
played for public adoration; in others, only at particular times: but
generally, in great towns, this privilege is conceded to all the churches
by rotation, and continues during 40 hours, Zas cuarenta Imus, which
are duly mentioned in almanacs and newspapers. From the high altar
rises a screen, or reredos, called el retablo ,- these, often most magnificent,
are reared high aloft, and crowned with a “ holy rood,” la Santa Cruz,
which is the representation of Christ on the Cross, with St. John and
the Virgin at his side. The retablos, most elaborately designed, carved,
painted, and gilt, estofaolo, are divided into compartments, either by
niches or intercolumniations; the spaces are filled with paintings-or
sculpture, generally representing the life of the Virgin, or of the Saviour,
or subjects taken from the Bible, or from the local legends and tutelars,
and do the oflice of books to those who can see, but cannot read. The
place of honour is usually assigned to Za Santisima, the most blessed
one, the Virgin, the_ “Queen of Heaven” (Jer. xliv. 17), the real
goddess, the Isis, Astarte and Great Diana of Spain. The Virgin is
represented mostly in the attitude of her Conception, Assumption, or
as bearing the Saviour as either infant or dead—in either case to exalt
her. To her, indeed, most of the cathedrals of Mariolatrous Spain are
dedicated, whilst in every church in the Peninsula she has her Lady
Chapel. .
Few Spaniards at any time, when traversing a cathedral, pass the
high altar without bowing and crossing themselves, since the incarnate
Host is placed thereon : and in order not to offend the weaker brethren,
every considerate Protestant should also manifest an outward respect
for this the Holy of Holies of the natives, and of his Redeemer also.
Sometimes kings, queens, and princes are buried near the high altar,
which is then called a capilla real. The sarcophagus, or bed on which
the figures representing the deceased kneel or lie, is called urna.
Spaniards, in designating the right and left of the altar, generally use
the terms Zado del Evangelio, Zado de la Epistola: the Gospel side, that
is the right of the celebrant looking from the altar; the Epistle side,
that is the left. These are the spots occupied by the minister while
reading those portions of the service. The altar on grand occasions is
decked with superbly embroidered coverlets ;- a complete set is called el
terno. The piers of the nave are then hung with damask or velvet
hangings, colgaduras; the back of the altar is called el trasaltar, and
here in some cathedrals is el trasparente, a huge pile of elaborately
worked marble, which is anything but transparent.
Spanish cathedrals generally have a parish church attached to them,
la parroquia, and many have a royal chapel, mm. capilla real, quite
distinct from the high altar, in which separate services are performed by
a separate establishment of clergy. The chapter-houses should always
60 x. cmmcn PLATE. Sect. I.
bevisited. The sala del cabildo, sala capitular, have frequently an
ante-room, antesala, and both generally contain carvings and pictures.
The sagrarllo is a term used for the additional chapel which is some
times appended to the cathedral, and also for the chamber, el relicario,
where the relics and sacred vessels of silver and gold are or rather were
kept, for their portable and ready money value were too evident to
escape the greedy eye of French invaders and Spanish appropriators;
in reality, to plunder church plate was the paramount object of
almost every Buonapartist Victor, to “ faire bien ses atfaires,” and enrich
themselves by sacrilege, pillage, and peculation. One of the earliest
thoughts of the Duke was how “ to make the French generals zlisgorge
the church plate which they had stolen ” (l)isp., Aug. 23, 1808) : this
he settled by English steel purgatives; indeed, the hope of pillage is
what endeared war to the revolutionary upstarts of France, and to which
they sacrificed every military principle and consideration for the lives of
their men (Disp. Dec. 29, 1810). The crime entailed the punishment;
the impediments of plunder formed a marked feature both at Baylen and
Vittoria, the first and last blows dealt in Spain to the rapacious Eagle.
As specimens of church plate worth notice are the altar candlesticks,
candeleros, blandones; the caliac, or sacramental cup; the porta paw, in
which relics are enclosed, and offered to devout osculation ; the cruces,
crosses ; baculos, croziers; and the vergers’ staves, cetros. The tra
veller should always inquire if there be a custodia, whether of silver,
plata, or of silver gilt, sobredorada. They are called custodias because
in them, on grand festivals, the consecrated Host is kept. The custodia,
containing the wafer, thus guarded, is deposited on Good Friday in the
sepulchre, el monumento. This temporary monument in some cathedrals
—Seville, for instance—is of great architectural splendour.
The Vestry is called la sacristia, and its oficial servant, el sacristan :
here the robes and utensils of the officiating ministers are put away.
These saloons are frequently remarkable for the profusion of mirrors
which are hung, like pictures,‘ all around over the presses: the looking
glasses are slanted forwards, in order that the priest, when arrayed, may
have a full-length view of himself in these clerical Psyches. The dresses
and copes of the clergy are magnificently embroidered, for the Spaniards
excel in this art of working silver and gold, which is Oriental, and in
herited from both Phoenician and Moor.
The painted glass in the windows, Zas vidrieras de las ventanas, is
often most superb, although the Spaniards themselves have produced
Very few artists in this chemical branch, and mostly employed painters
from Flanders and Germany.
The chief rejeros or makers of the exquisite purcloses, railings, are
Francisco de Salamanca, 1533; Christobal Andino, 1540; Francisco
dc Villalpando, 1561 ; Juan Bautista Celma, 1600. Their works are of
the highest merit and interest, and quite unrivalled in Europe; they
flourished in the gold and silver ages of Spain. The most remarkable
plateros or workers in silver are the D’Arphe family, 1500; Juan Ruiz,
el Vandolino, 1533 ; and Alonso Becerril, 1534. Unfortunately the
value of the mere material has tempted the spoiler, and consigned to
the melting pot many a precious remain of ancient piety, art, and
magnificence.
‘Spain. XI. RELIGIOUS FESTIVALS TOUR.-—XII. KINGS. 61
XI.--Rnmcrous Fnsrrvnns Tons.
Religion has long been mixed up most intimately in every public,
private, and social relation of Spain. There a powerful and intelligent
clergy monopolized soul and‘ body, dwarfing both; and secured the
good things of this world to themselves, by promising to others the
blessings of the next one. The priesthood, in order to prevent the
exercise of thought, furnished food for the eye—not mind—and from
the beginning marshalled into their service even popular amusements,
making a holy day and a holiday synonymous. Moralists and philo
sophers may speculate on the changes, whether for better or worse,
wrought by the diminution of these popular amusements and occupa
tions. The masses at least were not driven to the pothouse or politics;
now-a-days, as the cloisters come down in every town, colosseums arise
for the bloody brutalizing bull fight; yet the church ceremonials, on
grand days, although now much shorn of their splendour, should always
be visited, and especially when celebrated in honour of the tutelar saint
or miracle of any particular district : local costumes and manners will
be best studied at the Fiestas y Romerias, the Festivals and Pilgrimages
to some high place or shrine, and at the Veladas, the Wakes or Vigils, the
German Kirchweihe, which in a fine climate are at once attractive and
picturesque. Akin to these scanty relaxations of the peasantry are the
Ferias or fairs, a word which also has a double meaning for the
Spaniards, who, imitating the Moors at Mecca, have always been per
mitted to combine a little trafiic with devotion. These local festivities
are however sadly fallen ofi‘ from their pristine getting up and large
attendance.
The principal local saints, sites of pilgrimage, and leading fairs will
be mentioned in their respective places: travellers curious in these
festivals should endeavour to be at Valencia April 5, at Madrid April 15,
Ronda May 20, and Santiago July 25, and should always remember to
be in some great city during the Holy Week or Semana Santa (Seville
is the best), and during Corpus Christi, a moveable feast which takes
place the first Thursday after Trinity Sunday, and is celebrated every
where in Spain with great pomp, especially at Seville, Granada, Va
lencia, Barcelona, and Toledo. All the infinite holy days that are kept
in honour of the Virgin deserve notice, as do the more gloomy services
connected with the dead on the days of All Saints and All Souls in the
beginning of November. The festivities of Christmas and Carnival time
are more joyous, and very national and peculiar.
XII.—Kmos on Sum.
In the subjoined chronology of the order of succession of the Kings
of Spain, from the Goths, the years of their deaths are given from the
oflicial and recognised lists.
Gothic Kings. s.n. l 4.0. 4.1).
Ataulfo . . . 417 L Enrico . . . 483 Agila. - . . 554
Sigerico . . . 417 Alarico . . - 506 Atauagildo . . 567
Walia . . . 420 | Gesalico . . . 510 Leuva I. . - . 572
Theodoredo . . 451 Amalarico . . 531 Leovigildo O . 586
Turismundo . . 454 Theudio . . - 548 Recaredo I. - . 601
Theodorico . . 467 1 Theudesilo . . 549 Leuva II. - - 603
62 — XIII. CONTEMPORARY SOVEREIGNS. Sect. I.

KINGS or SPAIN-continued.
A.D. AJ). A.D..
WitericoÏ. . 600 Garcia‘ . . 913 Fernando 1V, el
Gundemaro . . 612 Ordoño Il. . . 923 Emplazado . 1312
Sisebuto . . . 621 Fruela II. . . 924 Alonso XI. . . 1350
Recaredo II. . 621 Alonso 1V. el Pedro I. el Cruel 1369
Snintila . . . 631 Monge . . . 930 Henrique II. . . 1379
Sisenanto . . 635 Ramiro II. . . 950 Juan I. . . . 1390
Chintila. . . . 638 Ordoño III. . . 955 Henrique III. . 1407
Tulga . . . 640 Sancho I. . . 967 Juan II. . . . 1454
Chindasuindo . 650 Ramiro Ill. . . 982 Henrique IV. el
Recesvinto . . 672 Bermudo II. . 999 Impotente . . 1474
Wamba . . . 687 Alonso V. . . 1028 Doña Isabel,laCa.
Ervigio . . .
687 Bermudo III. . 1037 tolica . . . 1504 '
Egica . . .
701 Doña Sancha. . 1067 Fernando V. . 1516
Witiza . . .
711 —- Doña Juana . . 1555
Don Rodrigo .
714 Kings of Castíle and Felipe I. . . . 1560
Leon. Carlos V., I. de
Kings of Leon. Fernando I. . . 1067 España . . 1558
Pelayo . . . 737 Sancho II. . . 1073 Felipe II. . . 1598
Favila . . . 739 Alonso VI. . . 1108 Felipe III. . . 1621
Alonso l. el Cato- Doña. Uraca . . 1126 Felipe IV. . . 1665
lico . , . 757 Alonso VII. Em- Carlos II. . . 1700
Fruela I. . . 768 perador . . 1157 Felipe V. abdi
Aurelio . . . 774 Sancho III. . 1158 cated . . 1724
Silo . . . . 783 Alonso VIII. 1214 Luis I. . . 1724
Mauregato . 788 Henrique I. . :l2l7 Felipe V. . :l746
Bermudo I. el Di- Fernando II. 1188 Fernando VI. 1759
acono . . . 795 Alonso IX. . . 1230 Carlos III. . I 1788
Alonso II. el Casto 843 Doña Berenguela 1244 Carlos IV., abdi
Ramiro I. . . 850 San Fernando III. 1252 cated . . . 1808
Ordoño I. . . 862 Alonso X. el Sabio 1284 Fernando VII. . 1833
Alonso III. el Sancho IV. el Isabel II. . .
Magno . . . 910 Bravo . . . 1295

XIII.——TABLE on CONTEMPORARY SOVEBEIGNS.

The periods have been selected during which leading events in Spanish
history have occurred.
4.1:. Spain. England. France. Rome.
800 Alonso II. el Casto . Egbert. . Charlemagne Leo III.
877 Alonso III. el Magno Alfred . . Louis II. . John VII.
996 Ramiro III. . . . Ethelred II. Hugh Capet . Gregory V.
1075 Sancho II. . . . {vgggggzggi} Philip I. . . Gregory VII.

1155 Alonso VII. . . . Henry II.. Louis VII. . {Adrian IV"


Brcakspeare.
1245 San Fernando . . Henry III. St. Louis . Innocent IV.
1345 Alonso XI. . . . Edward III. Philip VI. . Benedict VI.
1360 Pedro el Cruel . . Edward III. John II. . . Innocent VI.
1485 Isabel la Catolica . Henry VII. Charles VIII. Innocent VIII.
1515 Fernando de Aragon. Henry VIII. Francis I. . Leo X.
1550 Carlos V. . . . . Edward VI. Henry II. . Paul III.
1560 Felipe II. . . . . Elizabeth . Charles 1X. . Pins IV.
1644 Felipe IV. . . . Charles I. Louis XIV. Innocent X.
Spain. XIV. norm. ARMS. _ 63
A.D. Spain. England. France. Rome.
1705 Felipe V. . - . Anne . . Louis XIV. . Clement XI.
1760 Carlos III. . . . George III. Louis XV. . Clement XIII.
1808 Fernando VII. . . George III. Buonaparte . Pius VII.
mo Isabel 11.. . . . Victoria . Louis-Philippe {Ga‘;’dg‘§.1YusX,‘,’(I'
XIV.—'1‘nE Roran Anus or SPAIN.
These, which appear on most of all religious and public buildings, offer
fixed and certain aids in marking dates. They have from time to time
undergone many changes, and those changes denote epochs. The
“ canting” Castle was first assumed for Oastile, and the Lion for Leon ;—
the earliest shields were parted per cross ; gules, a castle, or ; argent, a lion
rampant gules, or more properly purpure. In 1332 Alonso XI. insti
tuted the order of La Vanda, the “ Band,” or scarf, the origin of “blue
and red ribbons ;” the charge was a bend dexter gules issuing from two
dragons’ heads vert. This, the charge of the old banner of Castile, was
discontinued in 1369 by Henry I[., who hated an order of which his
brother had deprived him. The colours of the flag of Spain are red and
yellow, because Castile bears gules and or.
The union of Arragon and Oastile in 1479, under Ferdinand and
Isabella, caused changes in the royal shield, then divided by coupe
and party; the first and fourth areas were given to Castile and Leon
quartered, the second and third to Arragon—Or, four bars, gules-—and
Sicily impaled; Navarre and Jerusalem were added subsequently : Fer
dinand and Isabella, who were much devoted to St. John the Evangelist,
adopted his eagle, sable with one head, as the supporter of their common
shield: they each assumed a separate device: Isabella took a bundle of
arrows, Fleciuu, and the letter F, the initial of her husband’s name and
of this symbol of union. The arbitrary Ferdinand took a Yoke, Yugo, ,_.i _.i__Z.¢-,_
and the letter Y, the initial alike of his wife’s name and of the despotic
machine which he fixed on the neck of Moor and Spaniard: he added
the motto TX'ro M6'rA, Tanto monta, Tantamount, to mark his assumed
equality with his Castilian queen, which the Castilians never admitted.
When Granada was captured in 1492, a pomegranate stalked and
leaved proper, with the shell open-grained gules, was added to the point
of the shield in base: wherever this is wanting, the traveller may be
certain that the building is prior to 1492. Ferdinand and Isabella are
generally called los Reyes Catolicos, the Catholic Sovereigns: they were
very great builders, and lived at the period of the most florid Gothic
and armorial decorations : they were fond of introducing figures of
heralds in tabards.
The age of their grandson Charles V. was again that of change: he
brought in all the pomp of Teutonic emblazoning: the arms of the
Roman Empire, Austria, Burgundy, Brabant, and Flanders, were now
added, and the apostolic one-headed eagle gave way to the double-headed
eagle of the Empire: the shield was enclosed with the order of the
Golden Fleece; the ragged staff of Burgundy, and the pillars of Her
cules, with the motto Plus ultra, plus oultre, were added. Philip II.
discontinued the Imperial Eagle, but added in two escutcheons of pre
tence the arms of Portugal, Artois, and Charolois. These were omitted
by his grandson Philip IV. when Spain began to fall to pieces and her
64 XV. THE ERA.—-XVI. SPANISH LANGUAGE. SGCL I.

kingdoms to drop ofl‘ ; on the accession of Philip V. the three Bourbon


fleur ale Zys were added in an escutcheon of pretence.
The arms of every important town in Spain will be found in the
‘ Rasgo Heroico’ of Ant. Moya, Madrid, 1756. Those of private families
are endless. Few countries can vie with Spain in heraldic pride and
pedigree literature, on which consult ‘ Bibliotheca Hispanica Historico
Gemalogico Heraldica,’ Q. E. de Frankenau, 4to,, Leipsig, 1724: it
enumerates no less than 1490 works; the real author was Juan Lucas
Cortes, a learned Spaniard, whose MS. treatises on heraldry and juris
prudence fell into the hands of this Frankenau, a Dane and first-rate
plagiarist, by whom they were appropriated in the most bare-faced
manner. On the copious subject of Spanish Heraldry and Genealogy, our
paper in the ‘ Quart. Review,’ N0. cxxiii. may be consulted. The chief
towns rejoice in magnificent epithets, “ Noble, Loyal, Faithful,” &c.
“Heroic” is so common, that the French soldiers, under Angouléme,
could not help laughing when the poltroon municipalities came out to
surrender their keys instanter. These craven corporations often enjoy
personal rank, “ excellencies,” and so forth.
XV.—THn ERA.
The antiquarian will frequently meet with the date Era in old books
or on old inscriptions. This mode of reckoning prevailed in the Roman
dominions, and arose from the date of the particular payment of taxes,
ms azra, “ when all the world was taxed ;” therefore the Moors translated
this date by Safer, “copper,” whence the Spanish word azqfar. It
commenced in the fourth year of Augustus Caesar, and according to
some, on March 25th, according to others December 25th. Volumes
have been written on this disputed point : consult ‘ Obras Clrronologicas,’
Marques de Mondejar, folio, Valencia, 1744, and the second volume of
the ‘Espafia Sagrada.’ Suflice it now to say, that to make the Em
correspond with the Anna Dmnini, thirty-eight years must be added;
thus A.D. 1200 is equivalent to the Era 1238. The use of the Era
prevailed in Spain down to the twelfth century, when the modern system
of reckoning from the date of the Saviour was introduced, not, however,
to the exclusion of the Em, for both were for a long time frequently used
in juxtaposition : the Era was finally ordered to be discontinued in 1383,
by the Cortes of Segovia.
The Moorish Hegira commences from Friday, July 16, A.D. 622,
Era 660.
The New Style was introduced by Gregory XIII. into Spain in 1582,
at the same time that it was at Rome; October 5th of the Old Style was
then called October 15th. This change must always be remembered in
ascertaining the exact date of previous events, and especially in com
paring Spanish and English dates, since the New Style was only intro
duced into England in 1751. '
XVI.~—SPANISH LANGUAGE AND Pnmsns.
Some acquaintance with this noble idiom is absolutely necessary to
get on tolerably in the Peninsula, where, as with Orientals, no other is
spoken or understood, the large cities and seaports excepted. The
unvisiting, unvisited people of Spain have never felt the necessity of
I
Spain. SPANISH MAGNILOQUENCE. 65 1
i
using any other language but their own, and have left to a fraction of their
so-called betters the disgrace of exchanging a nasal nondescript, which
they call and fancy French, for their sonorous Castilian, in which, as
Charles V. said, “ God ought alone to be addressed in prayer ;” and in
truth of all modern languages it is the most fitting and decorous medium
for solemn, lofty devotion, for grave disquisitions, for elevated, moral,
and theological subjects; an exponent of national character, it partakes
of the virtues and vices of the Spaniard—it is noble, manly, grandilo
quent, sententious, and imposing. The commonest village alcalde pens
his placards in the Cambyses state-paper style, more naturally than Pitt
dictated king’s speeches, extemporaneously. The pompous, fine-sounding
expressions and professions, convey to plain English understandings
promises which are seldom realized by Spaniards. The words are so
fine in themselves that they appear to be the result of thought and
talent. The ear is bewildered and the judgment can-ied away by the
mistakes we make in translating all these fine phrases—paZaZn"as, pala
ver, which are but Orientalisrns, and mean, and are meant to mean,
nothing—into our homely, business-like, honest idiom. We take
Spanish syllabubs for English plum-pudding, and deceive ourselves
only; for no official Spaniard ever credits another to the letter: our
literalness induces us to set them down as greater hoasters, hraggarts,
and more heggarly in performance than they really are. This wordy
exaggeration is peculiar to southern imaginative people, who delight in
the ornate and gorgeous ; our readers must therefore be on their guard
not to take all this conventional hyperbole of Spanish grandiloquence au
' pied de la lettre, for much less is meant than meets the ear. Such words
must be much lowered down, to reach the standard of truth, and like
their paper, when not protested, which is by far the safest way, at least
discounted; a deduction of 25 per cent. will seldom be found enough,
if the bond fide value is wished to be ascertained. Again our early
education at Public Schools and Universities leads us to associate a
Roman and Classical feeling with this superb idiom, in which the Latin
element is less changed than in any other modern language; with the
phraseology of Czssar and Cicero we cannot help connecting much of
their greatness. The Spanish idiom, at least, is the manly son and
heir of the Latin, as the Italian is the fair and elegant daughter.
The repugnance to all commercial and mechanical pursuits which has
been inherited from the Goths, and the fetters by which national intel
lect and literature have been so long confined, have rendered the language
of Castile comparatively unfit for most of the practical purposes for which
there is such a growing demand in this business-like, utilitarian ago. It
has yet to be hammered on the anvil of mere popular concerns, and is from
its very structure as unfitted for rapid condensed conversation, as are
those Spanish talkers and twaddlers who use it in writing or speaking;
however, as no other language is in vogue, the traveller must either hold
his tongue or adopt theirs. Nor will those who understand Latin and
French find much difiiculty in mastering Spanish; while a knowledge
of Italian, so far from being an assistance, will prove a constant stumb
ling-block. Both languages, as we have said, are children of the Latin,
but the one is the son and the other the daughter ; the terminations of
the former end in masculine consonants, of the latter in feminine vowels.
66 XVI. smmsn tancuaes am) PRONUNCIATION. Sect. I.
The pronunciation of Spanish is very easy; every word is spoken as it
is written, and with the lips and mouth, not the nose; the consonants
g, j, and av, before certain vowels, have a marked Arabic and German
guttural power, which confers a force, manliness, and ‘a back bone that
is far from disagreeable. In fact, this manliness, combined with gravity
and oriental majesty, is what principally distinguishes the Spanish from
the Italian language. Again, every word is written and spelt as it is
pronounced—a comfort to a student that is denied in our so-called ortho-
graphy, in which letters seem to have been given to conceal the sounds
of words. The g, j, and cc before vowels is generally written now withj,
although they may be used optionally. Thus the correct thing is to
spell Ximenez, Gimenez, as Jimenez. Again, the b and v have long
been cognate and convertible; thus Aqui se bende buen bino, occurs on
inn sign-posts, as often as Aqui se vende buen vino.
The original language of the lberians was the Basque, which is now
confined to its hilly corner. It was superseded by the Romance, or
corrupt idiom formed from the fusion of the Roman and Gothic lan
guages; this hybrid underwent a further change from its admixture
with the Arabic at the Moorish invasion, when two new dialects were
formed—the Aljamia or Spanish, as spoken by the Moors, and the
Algarabia or Arabic, as spoken by the Spaniards. This latter was so
bad, that the term, in its secondary sense, is applied to any gibberish
ga.rdbia——a. word which, strictly speaking, means Zogat-al-drabra, the
Arabic language. In Andalucia, as might be expected, this fusion was
the greatest, and the province, in the names of her rivers, towns, and
mountains, still retains the language of her former possessors, although
the Spaniards have even forgotten their meaning: thus they pleonasti
c-ally call the Wadi ’l lciber, the great river, el rio grande del Guadal
guivir; los bafios de Alharna, the baths of the bath; el puente de
Alcantara, the bridge of the bridge.
Although eZ hablar Oastellano means emphatically, speaking Spanish,
each province has its dialect. These maybe conveniently classed under
four great branches :—the primitive Basque; the Valencian and Cata
lonian, which comes near the Provencal, as the Arragonese does to the
langue d’Oc, or Lemosin; the Asturian and Gallician ; and the O'a.stilian,.
which thus may be compared to a heap of corn, composed of many
different classes of grain. The purest Oastilian is written and spoken at
Madrid and at Toledo, the most corrupt in the cities of Andalucia. One
marked difference in pronunciation consists in the sound of the th ; the
Oastilian marks it clearly—-Zaragoza, Tharagotha; Andaluz, Andaluth;
placer, plather; usted, usteth: while the Andalucian, whose ceceo is
much laughed at, will say Saragosoi, placer, or plaser, Andaluce, uste.
The traveller should never pronounce the h when at the beginning of a
word; hombre, hacer, must be Ombre, ather. The Oastilian speaks
with a grave, distinct pronunciation, ore rotundo, enunciating every
letter and syllable. The Andalucian clips the Queen’s Spanish, and
seldom sounds the d between two vowels.
The Castilians are sparing of Words. If speech be silver, silence, say
they, is often gold; and, throughout Spain, much intercourse is carried
on by signs, especially among the lower classes; thus, energetic defiance
or contempt (the national oath——the carajo—expressed by telegraph) is
Spain. XVI. smmsn LANGUAGE AND DICTIONARIES. 67
irresistibly conveyed by closing the fist of the right hand, elevating it,
and catching the elbow in the palm of the left hand, and thus raising
the right arm at a right angle. People call each other by a polite
hissing, or rather by the labial sound Ps, ps. The telegraph action of
this sibilant--Hola! ven aea, querido !—is done by reversing our form
of beckoning; the open hand is raised, and the palm is turned toward
' the person summoned or selected, and the four fingers drawn rapidly
up and down into the palm. Admiration—-sobresaliente, qua buena
moza!—is expressed by collecting the five fingers’ tips to a point,.
bringing them to the lip, kissing them, and then expanding the hand
like a bursting shell. Dissent—what a lie—mentim, or have nothing:
to do with it, her, or him, no te metas en eso—is quietly hinted by
raising the single fore-finger to the nose, and wagging it rapidly and
horizontally backwards and forwards. Astonishment, incredulous sur-
prise, or jocular resignation under unavoidable, irremediable afllictions
—-is dumbshowed by crossing oneself, as is done on entering a church in
Spain. The ancient contemptuous “fig q“ Spain”—-a fig for you—-is
digitally represented by inserting the head of the thumb between the
fore and middle fingers, and raising the back of the hand towards the»
person thus complimented. The fair sex carry on dumb-show, but
most eloquent “ conversations ” with the fan, abomico ,- and a signal-book
might be written on the polyglot powers of this electric telegraph.
Their management of it», or manejo, is unique and inimitable.
In Andalucia, the head-quarters of the fancy, la Aficion, a sort of '
slang is very current which is prevalent among majos, bull-fighters, and
all who aspire to be sporting characters; it is called Germania, geri
gonza, jerga (whence, perhaps, our jargon). It has often been con
founded, but most erroneously, with Rommany, or the language of ‘
Spanish gipsies, Gitamos, which is a Hindu dialect, whereas Germania
is simply a language of metaphor, or a giving a new conventional
meaning to an old word. Thus colegio, a college, in slang means a
prison, because there young culprits become masters of sinful arts.
Mr. Borrow, in his graphic ‘ Zincali,’ and A. F. Pott, in his learned
compilation ‘ Die Zigeuner,’ 2 vols., Halle, 1845, have exhausted tho
subject of gipsy philology.
'1‘he best method of acquiring the Spanish language is to establish
oneself in a good casa de pupilos, to avoid English society and conversa-
tion, to read Don Quixote through and aloud before a master of a
morning, and to be schooled by female tongues of an evening. The‘
ladies of Spain prove better mistresses,‘ and their lessons arc more
attended to by their pupils, than the inflections and irregular verbs of at
snuffy tobaccose pedagogue, a bore, and a button-holder, majadero y bota
rate. Mr. Lee, bookseller, 440, West Strand, can generally recommend
a good Spanish language teacher, e.g. Del Mar, whose grammar is very
good. The old dictionary, ‘ Tesoro de la Lengua Oastelltma,’ of Don
Sebastian Covarrubias, Madrid, 1611 and 1674, abounds with quaint
and Quixotic information. The Spanish Diccionario Nacional, with
Supplement, is trustworthy, and the French and Spanish Dictionary of‘
Nuficz de Taboada is one of the best; those who wish to trace the Arabic
influence on the Spanish language will find in the Arte de Za'_‘Len_qua
Arabica, and the Vocabulario Arabico, by Pedro dc Alcalé, 4to.,4
68 XVI. SPANISH PHRASES. Sect. I.
Granada, 1504 (generally bound up together), the exact idiom spoken
by the Moors of Granada.
As a “wrinkle” to students it will be found useful to add to their
Taboada dictionary sundry blank sheets, and set down on them the
colloquial, conversational phrases which recur the most frequently, for
spoken language differs everywhere most essentially from written; take,
for example, a couple of leaves from our book, in which the common
every-day and lighter subjects have been purposely selected.
Ojala! I wish I could, would to ¿[uy guapa, muy guapita, very nice,
Allah it were so! uncommonly nice. —
Si Dios quiere, if God pleases. The Me lo dzjá nn tal. Don Fulano. so
Inch allah! of the Moors. and so told me, Mr. What-d’ye
Valgame Dios, God bless me. call-him. Fulan is pure Arabic.
Ave Maria purisima, a form of ad Perdane, Vmd., dispense Vmd., ex
miration and salntation. cuse me, forgive me.
Sabe Dios, quien sabe ? God knows, Disimule Vmd., pardou me.
who can tell? _ Eco no puede ser de ningun modo, that
No se sabe, nobody knows, that de cannot be on any account.
pends. E90 no era en mi año, it was not in
Mug bien, very well. my year, it did not happen in my
Sagan y conforme, just as it may turn time.
out. Y no era mi daño, I have no right to
Corriente, all’s right, certainly. complain.
Es regular que si, I should suppose Puesaseriores, and so, sirs, as I was
so. saying.
No hay inconveniente, it is quite con Con que luego, and so then.
venient. De botones adentro, inside outside.
Está dos leguas mas alla, it is two llle viene como anilla al dedo, it suits
leagues further on ; mas aca, me like a ring does a finger.
nearer. Que se aguante hasta el jueves, let
En el dia de hay, now-a-days. him wait (till Thursday).
Lo hago par amor de Vmd.," I do it Sabe muy bien guisar, he is a capital
for your sake. cook.
Es casa de mucho aseo, it is a. very Muy hinchada, que tono se da! very
comfortable house. proud, what airs she gives herself!
Me armó una trampa, he laid a trap No me da la gana, I don’c choose, I
for me. am not in the humour.
Con mucho destaco y descaro, with a Ya está hecha la diligencia, the com
regular brazen face. mission or thing is already done.
Vaya Vmd.,mucllo mu en hora mala, Que disparate! what nonsense 1
ill luck betide you (in: oath). Hombre de bien, a good, an honest
Ya se ve, mas claro, certainly, quite fellow.
clear. Tmlante y embustero, a good-for
Cabal, no cabe duda, exactly, there nothin liar.
can be no doubt. Mueran as gavachas, death to the
Es verdad, tiene Vmd. razon, it is miscreants (the national wish as
true, you are right. regards the French).
Por supuesto, of course. Picaro, piedra, rogue (may be used
file lo presumo, me lo figuro, I pre playfully).
sume so, I conclude so. Buena alhaja, buena prenda es Vmd.,
Sin embargo, á pesar de eso, never you are a pretty jewel.
theless, in spite of. Calavera atolondrada, empty noddle
Que buena moza! what a pretty girl! (Skull).
* Vmd. is explained in page 124.
Spain. XVI. SPANISH PHRASES. 69
Mag ordinario, very bad style. Le pone el pie en el pescueza, she
No vale nada, it is worth nothing. hen-pecks him.
Me quiere mucho, he is very fond of Tengo mi angel de guarda, I have my
me. » guardian angel.
Le mande ú un recado, I sent him on Tengo bula para todo, I have a. bull
a message. for everything (I am a privileged
Es hombre tan formal como nosotros, person).
he is as well-bred as we are. Tiene el diablo en el cuerpo, he has
Con quien se puede tratar, you can the devil in him.
live, do business with him. Que mus le da á Vmd. ‘.3 what is that
Con toda franqueza Española, with to you?
all Spanish frankness. No le hace, it does not signify.
No tiene educacíon, he is very ill Nopor los lindos (¿jos de V1nd., not for
bred. the sake of your good looks (eyes).
Na conoce rl mundo, has no know Rezelo que lo tomen á mal, I am
ledge of the world. afraid they may take it amiss.
Tiene cara de hereje, he is very ugly. Una cosa de tres semanas, about three
Tiene pecho como tabla de animas, weeks.
she is very scraggy. Maude Vmd. con todafranqueza, com
Ha quedado para vestir imagenes, she mand me quite freely.
is an old maid. Eclzaremos un paseito, let us take a
Es una erudita á la violeta, una marí walk.
‘sabidilla, she is a blue. Tenga Vmd. cuidado, take care.
Los Españoles son mag valientes, the No tenga Vmd. miedo, cuidado, don't
Spaniards are very valiant. be afraid, don't mind.
Algunos con las dientes, some with Aquí estoy go. I am here.
their teeth. No lo repare‘, I paid no attention to it.
Mueren como chinches, they die in He leído una porcíon de ellas, I have
numbers. read some of them.
Una esquela, una esquelita, a. note, a Ponrlre‘ tierra por medio, I shall be
billet. off, (put earth between).
A medio pelo, half-seas-over. Hace mucho papel, he makes a great
Vamos d las tiendas, let us go shop show.
plug. Salió a’ las tablas, went ou the stage
Ïfamos, varnonos a‘ la calle, let us go (boards).
out (Iiterally, into the street). Ecbemos un cigarrillo, let us make a
Que lastima.’ what a pity! cigar.
Me da lastima, I am very sorry. No fumo, no gasto cigarros, I do not
Me da tanto coraje, it puts me in such smoke, I never use cigars.
a rage. Fuego, candela, light (to light cigars).
No me quemes la. sangre, don’t vex Que tonto eres! how silly you are !
me (burn my blood). Me volvió la hoja, he changed the
Me hace volver loco, he drives me mad. subject, turned over a new leaf.
Vengo sofocado, I am sufibcated with Dice sandezes, he talks nonsense.
rage. Sabe mucho, he is a clever fellow.
Quedarsefresco, Llevar chasm, to be Sabe un punto mas que el diablo, he
done, knows a trick more than the devil.
Ah que me burlas, ah, you are joking _Cgghaza,l1a_1/ tie1np0,patience, there's
at me. plenty of time.
Lo dice en broma, he says it in jest. No corre priesa, there is no hurry.
Corazon de cuartel, a heart as roomy Conque se marcha Vmd. de veras i? so
as a barrack. you are really going?
No como pan de valde, I don’t eat Es preciso, no hay remedio, it must be,
my bread gratis. there’s no help.
No compro nada de gangas, I buy Hola I Señor Don Jose‘, que tal t?
nothing a bargain. Hollol Mr. Joseph, what news?
70 XVI. SPANISH PHRASES. Sect. I.
Se dice en el pueblo, they say in the Acaeció en el tíem o del rey Wamba,
town. it happened in t e time of Wamba.
Mentiras, no lo creo, fibs, I don’t be No me pasa el pellejo, it does not wet
lieve it. through my skin.
Que chismografia! what tittle-tattle l Tomar el aire, el fresco, to take an
¡‘lala lengua tiene Conchita, little airing.
Concha has a wicked tongue. Jesus! que calor hace! how hot it is!
No te metas en esa, have nothing to Vengo molido, hecho pedazos, I am
do with it. knocked all to pieces.
Que caídas tiene! how droll he is! Manos blancas no ofenden, white
Que ocurrencias! how witty! hands (the fair sex) never hurt.
Eso va largo, that's a long afi‘ail' Conque me marcho, so I must go
Por lo que á mi toca, as far as de now.
pends on me. Vaya Vmd. con Dios, well, God bless
Que cara tan rísueña! whata cheer you.
ful countenance l Quede Vmd. con Dios, may you re
Tiene Vmd. buena cara, you are look main with God.
ing very well. A los pies de mi señora, my respects
Que compuesta estás! how well to your wife.
dressed you are, how well got up! Agour, good bye; pronounced abour.
Venida en balea, you seem to come Muchas memorias, remember me to
in a waiter (out of a bandbox). all.
Hija de mi alma, de mis ojos, de mí Ezpressiones, sa everything civil
corazon, daughter of my soul, of from llle.—-A ios, adieu.
my eyes, of my heart. Hasta la vista, Hasta despues, au
Como I’. guste, as you like it. revoir.
Toma, para echar un truguíto, here‘s Cosas de España-J‘ Things of]
something to drink. Spain ;” i. e. peculiarities tending
Mucha bulla para nada, much ado to illustrate national character.
about nothing, The expression is common among
Estoy en el uso de la palabra, I have all classes, and is that by which
not lost my speech. the natives designate anything
Calle Vmd. hombre, calle la boca! which they either cannot or will
hold our tongue, sir! not explain to strangers.
Calle Vlad. muger! hold your tongue, Bísoños —Wanters; Beggars; the
madam! “ under which King, Bezonian f?" of
Que_le purece á Vmd. 7 what do you Pistol is an old Spanish term, and
think of it? much used by Toreno to express the
De me Vmd. el pico de la cuenta, give soldiers of a regular Spanish army
me the change of my bill. —C'osas de 27mm paupertas,
Estoy muy de priesa, I am in a. great eges!as—“ always,” as the Duke
hurry. says, “ hors-de combat, always in
Esto no acaecerá otra vez, it shall not want of everything at the most
happen another time. critical moment;" so in Italy, the
Que enfado, quej>esazlez—que moles needy troops of even Charles V.
tía, que maja eria! what a bore, were always asking for every
what a nuisance! thing — Bisogna cami, Bisogna
Diga Vmd., mire Vmd., tell me, look denari.
here. Nosotros-We, i.e. the Spaniards;
Tenga Vmd. la bondad de decirme, the collective expression of indi
be s0 good as to tell me. vidual egotism; each I or item of
Hagame Vmd. el favor, do me the the aggregate considering himself
favour. as No. l among mortals, as Spain
Guste á Vmd. decirme, pray please is No. l, the first and foremost of
to tell me. nations.
Spain. xvrr. wnronrs, E'1‘C.——XVIII. AUTHORITIES QUOTED. 71 ;
XVII.—-RELATIVEDrsrnncns,
Scams: or AND
Sramsn
Mnnsunns.
AND ENGLISH Wnrenrs, '

Now that civilization is all the rage in Spain a scheme is in conten1- l


plation to introduce one uniform rule in these matters, which is to be
based on the decimal and French system; meanwhile, Q
Weights. 1
Spanish. _ English Equivalent. :
12 Granos . . . . 1 Tomrn. ,
3 Tomines . . . 1 Adarme. i
2 Adarmes . . . 1 Dracma . . . . = Drachm. '
8 Dracmns - . . 1 Onza . . . . 1 = Ounce. :
8 Onzas . . . . 1 Marco . . . . = Marc. |
2 Marcos . . . . 1 Libra . . . . = Pound. -I
25 Libras . . . . 1 Arroba. . . - . = Quarter ofCwt.
4 Arrobas . . . 1 Quintal . . . . = Hundred Weight.
Distances.
12 Lineas . . . . 1 Pulgada . . . . = Inch.
12 Pulgadas . . ‘. 1 Pie . . . - . = Foot.
Ii Pie . . . . 1 Codo . . . = Cubit.
3 giiios } . . . 1 Vara . . . . . = Yard.

The English foot is 13 Spanish inches. The English yard is 1 Spa


nish and 3; inches. The English mile is 1925 Spanish yards, 2 feet.
The new Spanish legua is equal to about 3% English miles.
Corn and Dry Measures.
4 Oehavillos . . 1 Ochavo . . .
4 Ochavos Z . . 1 Cuartillo . . Pint.
4 Cuartillos . . . 1 Celemin . . . Peck.
12 Celemines . . 1 Fanega . . . About one Cwt.
12 Fanegas . . 1 Caiz.
Our quarter is about 5 Fanegas, 11} Celemin. 1 bushel is about
7; Celemines.
An Aranzada, or Spanish acre, is as much land as a pair of oxen can
plough in a day ; a Fanega is that quantity which requires a Fanega
of grain to sow it.
Liquid Measures, I/Vine, &c.
4Copas . . . 1 Cuartillo.
4 Cuartillos. . 1 Azumbre . . . = Pint.
2Azumbres. . 1 Cuartilla - . . = Quart.
4 Cuartillas . . 1 Arroba.
29 Arrobas 1 Bota o Pipa . . = About 110 to 115 gallons.
About 7 Cuartillos make our Gallon.
XVIII.—AUTHOBITIES QUOTED. S

This Handbook, destined chiefly for the antiquarian and dilletante on


his travels, does not profess to enter into prisons, poor-law, power-looms,
political economy, or statistics, grave matters detailed in Madoz and
Minutoli, while our lighter volumes are intended to go in AZ/"orjas and be
handled on the saddle. In quoting authorities for statements, Spa.m'sh
authors will be chiefly selected, as being the most readily accessible in
a country where foreign books are very rare ; when other authors are
72 xvur. sr. msromcar. sun ARTLSTIGAL AUTHORITIES. Sect. I.
quoted, those will be taken who, by common consent, in Spain and
out, are held by their respective countrymen to be most deserving of
credit: a frequent reference will be made to authorities of all kinds,
ancient as well as modern. Thus the home reader or writer who is
anxious to pursue any particular subject will find his researches facili
tated, and all will have a better guarantee that facts are stated correctly
than if they were merely depending on the unsupported assertion of an
individual.
1. HISTORICAL AND ARTISTICAL AUTHORITIES.
Mariana (Juan dc), Historia General de Espaiia, in books and
chapters: this history, written originally in Latin, was also published
in Spanish with corrections and additions by its learned author in
1628, who is termed their “Livy” by his countrymen. The work,
continued and illustrated down to Charles III., by Eduardo Chao,
4 vols. 8vo., Mad. 1849, offers a fair collection of facts, for it was not
likely that the author, a priest and Jcsuit, would have taken liberal or
philosophical views of many of the most important bearings of his
country’s annals, even had, any truly searching spirit of investigation
been ever permitted by the censorship of the Government and Inqui
sition. '
Mohamntedan Dynasties in Spain, 2 vols. 4to., London, 1841-43, by
Don Pascual Gayangos, the first Hispano-Arabic scholar of his day, who
unites to indefatigable industry a sound critical judgment; written in
English, this work must henoeforward take its place as the text-book
on the subject.
Historia de los Arabes en Espafia, by Juan Antonio Gonde, 4 vols.
4to., Mad. 1820-21, is compiled entirely from Arabic authorities, and is
very dry reading; the premature death of the author prevented his
giving it the last finishing touches, hence sundry inaccuracies, and a
general want of arrangement. It was translated into French by a M.
Marles, 3 vols., Paris, 1825 ; or rather murdered, as the original text is
misrepresented and rendered uncertain by the introduction of new and
inaccurate matter.
Diccionario dc las Bellas Artes, 6 vols. 8vo., Mad. 1800, by Juan
Agustin (Jean Bermudez, forms a complete dictionary of all the leading
artists of Spain, with their biographies, lists of their principal works,
and where they are or were to be seen ; for this book in the hands of
the Soults and Co. proved a catalogue which indicated what and where
was the most valuable artistical plunder. The substance has been most
ably and agreeably evisoerated by W. Stirling in his Annals of Spain,
while the mass of additional information is what might be expected from
the research of this accurate and indefatigable author. Consult also
Handbook of the Spanish School of Painting, by Sir E. Head, 1848 ; and
the condensed epitome of architecture, sculpture, and painting, “Die
Christliche Kunst in Spanien,” Leipzig, 1853, by J. D. Passavant, the
director of the Frankfort Museum, who purposes to write an artistical
tour through the Peninsula.
Noticias de los Arquitectos y Arquitectura, by J. A. Cean Bermudez,
4 vols. 4to., Mad., 1829, is an excellent dictionary of architecture. This
author edited and improved the text of Don Eugenio Llagimo y Amirola;
Spain. xvnr. sr. msronrcar. AND anrrsrroar. AUTHORITIES. 73
unfortunately both wrote under the influence of their purist pedantic
Graeco-Romano academical age, which had little feeling for any of the
earlierstyles. To investigate theremains of classical antiquity, and to urge
on and enlogise classical copyists was their chief end, to the comparative
neglect of other branches of the subject. The Samaria dc Zas Anti_giie
dades Romanas en Espaita, 1 vol. fol., Mad. 1832, by the same author,
gives a correct summary of all the chief remains of antiquity which
still exist in Spain, with copious indexes.
An epitome of Spanish Architecture will be found in a paper of ours in
the Quarterly, No. cliv. (1846). Consult also the useful Ensayo Historico,
by José Caveda, 8vo., Mad. 1849, in which every style is traced from
the Roman to the present period, with the still-existing examples cited.
Hfstoria C’r'it1'ca of Juan Francisco Masdeu, 20 vols. 4to., Mad. 1784,
1805. This work of research, although tedious, contains a vast collec
tion of documentary information and antique inscriptions; these title
deeds of the dead, saved from the wreck of time, are now doubly
valuable, as many of the originals have perished. Here, while no dry
bone of antiquity is left unpicked, too much of the mediaeval and modern
has been passed over. Begun, like many things of Spain, on too grand
and extensive a scale, this work never was completed.
For the ancient geography of Spain, consult Géographie von Hispanien,
Konrad Mannert, 8vo., 3rd edit., Leipsig, 1829; and, better still, His
panien, Fr. Aug. Ukert, Weimar, 1821, second part, p. 229. For early
History down to the Goths, consult Histoire Générale ole l’Espagne, B.
Depping, 2 vols. 8vo., Paris, 1814; and excellent, but not yet com
pleted, Histoire de l’Espagne of M. Romey. However, as to her history,
few countries are more indebted to another than Spain is to English
and. American writers; suffice it to mention the names of Robertson,
Dunlop, Coxe, Irving, Prescott, Lord Mahon, Stirling, and others.
The Viaje de Espaita, by Antonio Ponz, 18 vols., Mad. 1786-94,
presents a valuable itinerary of Spain as it was, before the most precious
monuments were destroyed, and its treasures plundered by Vandals
foreign and domestic. This Leland of Spain published his itineraries
to rebut some caustic criticisms of the Vago Italiano, the Padre Caimo ;
for it is, and has long been one of the weaknesses of Spain since her
decline, to consider herself the object of the envy and admiration of the
universal mankind, and to fancy that all are conspired to misunderstand
and depreciate her superior excelleneies; then, as now, those foreigners
who tell the truth, are set down- as liars, libellers, and antagonists, just
as if a mariner should quarrel with his best friend, an honest barometer.
Ponz, a. kind-hearted careful observer, could not escape the one-sided pre
judices of his age, which looked only to the antique, or to the imitations
of classical style. He was cruelly addicted to the Castilian disease of twad
dle, and the pith of his 18 tomes might be condensed into half-a-dozen.
Diccionario Geografico, by Sebastian de Mifiano, 10 vols. 4to., Mad.
1826-9. This geographical and topographical description of the Pen
insula was somewhat “ done to order ” for the home market, and over
coloured to flatter the government of the day ; it is now completely
superseded by the Diccionario Geografico Estadistico Historico of
Pascual Madoz, xvi. vol. 4to., Mad. 1848-50. This important work
is indeed a creditable monument of individual perseverance, unaided,
SPAIN.-—I. E
74 XVIII. SP. RELIGIOUS AUTHORITIES. Sect. I.

nay thwarted by some of the “ powers that be.” They disliked


“ taking stock ” when they had no effects, and obstructed revelations of
the prison-house, and of that nakedness of the land brought about by
misgovernment—the true source of evil to which Madoz alludes, as much
as he dare do. The people, on their parts, disliked to be numbered, as be
tiding no good, and significative of fresh taxes, increased conscription, &c.
The articles in this work differ, having been furnished by “ 1000 ”
local contributors. The amount of information in statistics, in judicial,
criminal, commercial, and fiscal details, is considerable, and must prove
of great use to original tour writers. The geologist also will find much
new and interesting matter. P. Madoz, a gallant partizau, and a Catalan
liberal, was banished by Ferdinand VII. to France, of whose young
school he became a disciple; hence he sneers at England—fria cal
culadora—and attributes Spain’s independence to Spanish arms
¥o,_ 1~
alone 1 Never weary of monstering her molehills into mountains,
of trumpeting forth the bush-fightings of partizau warfare, as pro
rligios dc valor, he escapes from the chronic atrophy of present pa
ralisis, to recollections ofa glorious past and hopes of a brilliant future.
—-Oosas de Espafia; and we may mention one other “ thing :” when
the real value of this work was recognised, the government felt bound to
offer some sort of patronage, and as “funds were wanting,” hit upon
this scheme. All cesantes, widows, &c., who had pensions with long
atrasos, arrears, were allowed to take copies of this work, without pay
ment, to the amount due to them from Government, which many did,"
selling them forthwith; thus a work worth 80 dollars fell, from the
glut in the market, to about 15 or 20.
The best and rarest of the local histories will be'named in their
respective localities. This branch of Spanish literature forms indeed
a goodly ro\v on the book collector’s shelf--praeclara Supellex.
' 2. RELIGIOUS AUTHORITIES.
La Espaiua Sagrada, commenced in 1747, now consists of 47 vols.
4t0.; this a grand work, framed on the scope of the Italia Sacra of
Ughelli, 1644, and the Gallia Christiana of the brothers Sainte Marthe,
1715, was compiled by the learned Padre Henrique Florez, who maybe
called the Dugdale, Muratori, or Montfaucon of Spain. The Academia de
la Historian of Madrid is charged with its continuance, but so many of the
archives of cathedrals and convents were made cartridges of by the Soults
and Suchets, and destroyed during the recent civil wars and sequestra
tions, that the treatment of the latter dioceses must of necessity he some
what inferior to the former, from the lack of those earliest and most
interesting documents, which, fortunately printed by Florez, were thus
rescued from destruction ; Florez is also the author of Medalhzs de Espafia,
3 vols. folio, Mad. 1757, 73. The 3rd volume, rather rare, and smaller
than‘ the two preceding, treats of the coins and medals of Spain earlier
than the Romans, and down to the Goths : plates are given of the ex
amples, and a short account of the mints in which they were struck.
These, the portrait and picture books of antiquity, and of all its re
mains those which have best escaped, now possess a value far different
from their original monetary standard, and one the ancients never con
templated, and illustrate at once the religion, war, and history of the past.
Spain. xvm. sr. MILITARY AUTHORITIES. 75
Flos Sanctorum, or Vida de los Santos, by the Jesuit Pedro Ribs.
deneyra and others. The Madrid fol. edit. of 1790, 3 vols., is that
here quoted. It gives the present church authorised version of
legends and monkish miracles—shorn indeed from the Legenda Aurea
of Voragine, and suited to more enlightened and sceptical times.
Fr ' Pacheco, in his Arte de la Pintura, also details the correct colours
and attributes with which these legends were to be expressed by the
imitative arts; consult also Pictor Ohristianus Eruditus, Juan Justerian
de Ayala, fol., Mad. 1730; or the Spanish translation by Luis de Duran,
2 vols. 4to., Mad. 1782. VVithout some of these books none can
hope to understand the fine arts of the Peninsula, whether in cathedral
or gallery; indeed, Palomino (ii. 131) considered a work of this kind
to be absolutely indispensable to every Spanish artist, as being to mo
dern papal hagiography, what a Lempriere is to ancient pagan my
thology. Nor in many cases will much more be found to be changed
than the mere names.
3. MILITARY AUTHORITIES.
These necessarily are of 3 classes, and belong to the invader, the
French; the invaded, the Spanish; and the deliverer, the Engl/islz."
They correct and explain each other.
Gluvres de N. Bmmaparte, 5 vols. 8vo., Paris, 1822. Le Style est
l’Homme, and great as this great general was in victories-Marengo,
Jena, Austerlitz—and greater in the number of his reverses-Egypt,
Russia, Leipsig, and Waterloo, he was greatest by far as a phrasemaker, a
writer of leading articles, and was indubitably the first “ Thunderer” of
France. These tomes contain his Moniteur proclamations, bulletins,
and information, “ garbled,” as the Duke says, “ in the usual J acobin
style,” and filled with “ the usual philippics ” against la perfide Albion
et son or. True exponents of this true Italian and of his machiavellian
system, his compositions breathe fire and spirit, splendide mendaac ,- and
if occasionally Ossianic, and the very reverse of the dispatches of our
plain veracious Duke, were admirably suited for his readers and pur
poses. Although the truth is seldom in them, they fascinate by their
“ invention ” and daring, and burn like sparks struck from granite by
the sword. His nonsense suited the nonsense of a time and followers, I
who neither understood nor appreciated a quiet undemonstrative per l
formance of duty; to whom, from having no feeling for moral greatness,
La gloire came more acceptable when arrayed in the melodramatic tinsel
i
of a Franconi Murat. These things are matters of taste and race. To
deny Buonaparte’s military merits would be absurd, and in none more [1
so than an Englishman, at whose expense no single leaf of his large
1.
chaplet was earned; and those who unjustly seek to curtail its fair
proportions, rob our soldiers and sailors of half their glory; but as a
man and a. civilian he was mean, and the incarnation of selfish
egotism.
Histoire de la Guerre dams la Péninsule, General Foy, 4 vols., Paris,
1827. This author, one of the humble instruments of the despot Empire
and rule of brute force, became a patriot under the gentle constit-utional
Restoration. Like all inferior imitators, he out-herods and out-buckrams
Buonaparte. Even his friend Chateaubriand, no foe in the Zbstract to
- E
76 xvm. sv. MILITARY AUTHORITIES. Sect. I.
charlatanism, describes him as “homme d’imagination et sujet a se
tromper ” (Congrés de Vér. 43). Eloquent and clever as M. Foy was,
he could not always invent facts, or guess numbers accurately; nor
was he equal to that most difficult of all tasks, the sustaining consist
ently throughout a “ fiction of military romance.” The truth creeps
out in accidental contradictions. Foy, says Sir G. Murray (‘ Quart.
Review,’ cxi. 167), who knew him well in peace and war, has as “a
writer shown notoriously the grossest ignorance in respect to many
particulars connected with England, about which a very slight inquiry
would have set him right.” M. Foy, who was present at every sauve
qui peut, from Roleia to Waterloo, has the face to deny to the Duke the
commonest military talent, attributes his successes to accident, and
ascribes the valour of British soldiers principally to “beef and rum ;”
see i. 230, 259, 290, 325, et passim. Risum teneatis ?
Journauac des Siéges dans la Péninsule, J. Belmas, 4 vols. 8vo., Paris,
1836, projected by Buonaparte in 1812, and finished by Scult, professes
to be based on authentic documents (for what they are see p. 79) in
the French war-office-—it details how the English forces were always
double in number to the French, the reverse being nearer the truth.
Much the same may be said of the Victoires ct C'onqué‘tes des Fran
cais, 26 vols. 8vo., Paris, 1818-21 ; this compilation of a set of inferior
officers and small gens-de-lettres, after the second capture of Paris, ex
hibits throughout an untrue, unfair, and virulent tone against the
countrymen of Nelson and Wellington, about whom they write so much
in hate and ignorance, and so little in fact or honour; and yet this is
the vomit to which some of our neighbours return when writing on this
subject-. (See M. Gagenon on the Duke of Wellington, 1852.) The
characteristics of other modern historical romance writers of the Lamar
tine and Thiers class are thus truly hit off by our Napier, when dealing
with the latter little gentleman’s, “pages sparkling with paste bril~
liants, but wanting the real jewel truth.”
The Itinéraire descripti/' dc l’Espag-ne, by Alez. de Laborde, 6 vols.,
Paris, 1827, like Murphy's ‘ Alhambra,’ was a bookseller’s speculation,
and in both cases it is difficult to believe that the authors ever were at
all in Spain, so gross, palpable, and numerous are the inaccuracies:
some idea of the multitndinous and almost incredible mistakes and mis
statements of Laborde may be formed by reading the just critique of
the ‘ Edin. Rev.’ xv. 5. The third edition, 1827, was tickled up by
one Bory de St. Vincent, an aide-de-camp to Soult, a rabid Buonapart
ist, and author of a poor Guide des Voyageurs en Espagne, Paris,
1823. Of his qualifications he gives an account in the Dédicace—
“ having galloped in less than a year more than 1400 leagues.” “ Vous
jugerez par ce rapide narré, des facilités que j’ai eu pour bien coir
l’Espagne, et concevrez quej’ai cru pouvoir en écrire avec connaissance de
cause.” This Bory afterwards became, like Foy, a patriot, and! in
1815 edited, under a false name, a. jacobin paper at Ghent.
Biogmphie Universelle, 74 vols. 8vo., Paris, 1811-43, is a respectable
compilation, although not free from bias whenever tender national
subjects are concerned.
The materials for writing political and military history, under
Buonaparte, were systematically tampered with, and the sources of
Spain. xvur. sr. mnrrsav AUTHORITIES. 77
correct information were corrupted as a matter of course; his throne
was hung around with a curtain of falsehood, lined with terror ; or, in
the words of his own agent, l’Abbé de Pradt, with ruse doublée de terreur.
- Under him, says even Foy, i. 17, “La presse était esclave; la police
repoussait la vérité avec autant de soins, que s’il fut agi d’écarter
l’invasion de l’ennemi.” “ At all times,” says the Duke (‘ Disp.,’
July 8, 1815) “ of the French revolution, the actors in it have not
scrupled to resort to falsehood, either to give a. colour or palliate their
adoption or abandonment of any line of policy; and they think, pro
vided the falsehood answers the purpose of the moment, it is fully
justified.”
Under the system, formed in the school of such revolutions, the truth
could seldom be known, when a disaster was represented as a victory, and
the meaning-pregnant word honour was narrowed into mere hmmeu-r, or
exhibition of personal bravery in the field; it followed, in the utter want
of moral principle, that neither to lie or steal were held to disgrace a
general, provided he was not beaten in battle. Buonaparte renewed, in
war and politics, the old “ Dolus an virtus quis in host-e, requirit ;" and
to him again is applicable the character given by Livy to Hannibal
(xxi. 4): “ Has tantas viri virtutes, ingentia vitia equabant; inhumana
crudelitas, perfidia plusquam Punica, nihil veri, nihil sancti, nullus
Dcfrm metus, nullum jus jurandum, nulla religio.” _
Nor can it be wondered at, when sans-culottes were thus placed at the
head of chivalrous civilized France, that a low morality should have been
too much the order of the day; tel maitre, tels valets. When Lefebvre broke
his parole, his master—instead of sending him back, as the Duke would
have done, “ had any English officer been capable of such dishonour ”
(‘ Disp.’ Oct. 20, 1809)—approved of the foul deed, and promoted
him ! Under such circumstances, the Duke “ could place no confidence
in their parole ” (June 30, 1811). Now the farceur Foy, who ascribes the
bravery of our dull slow soldiers to “ beef and rum,” thinks that “ honour
is a motive too delicate for their dense organization, and that our otficers
lack the exclusive idolatry of it of the Frenc ” (i. 235, 241), and this
while Buonaparte was doing his best to bring back those dark ages, when
telling a lie was but a familiar jest, and a breach of parole and perjury
only afapon de parler. “ Francis familiare erat ridendo fidem frangere ”
(F. Vopiscus Proculus). “ Si pejeret Francus quid novi faceret, qui
perjurium ipsum sermonis genus putat esse, non criminis” (Salvien de
G. D. iv). The Duke knew exactly what he might venture to believe,
for he distrusted even their honour among each other: “ Although we
_rarely find the truth in the public reports of the French government or
of their ofiiccrs, I believe we may venture to depend upon the truth of
what is written in cipher ” (‘ Disp.’ January 29, 1813). But according
to M. Foy, Wellington was “ un General vulgaire!” (i. 325); “ d’un
portée ordinaire !” (i. 259), when compared with the Marshals of the
Empire, “ Demigods of the ‘ Iliad’ ” (i. 325); whom—par parenthese
—he defeated one after the other, as easily as he did their master.
Anrl now in 1852! according to M. Thiers, Nelson, when not at sea,
is still un homme borne’! and Wellington d’un peu d’entendu! These
historical romancers become, however, authorities when admitting any
thing against themselves. Such confession is so diametrically opposed
78- xvru. sr. MILITARY Aurn0nn;11~‘.s. Sect. I.
to their whole system, that the reluctant testimony of an unwilling
witness becomes admissible: ho\v great indeed a defeat must that be
which they term a “ non succés,” or do not claim as a victory, such as
'l‘alavera, Barrosa, Albuera, Fuentes de Onoro, Toulouse, &c.—si videas
lzoc, gentibus in nostris, risu guatiare! It is indeed strange that any
individuals of a nation so chivalrously martial, of such undisputed
bravery, should not understand how well it could aflbrd to admit a
reverse in a fair well-fought fight, and that any one of a people of such
singular cleverness should not perceive that honesty, in the end, is the
best and the most manly policy ; and passing strange, that their power
and keen sensitiveness of ridicule should not observe the smile and pity
with which the rest of the world, who know the truth, peruse such
braggadocio balderdash and sheer military romancing, as Walter Scott
happily terms what the Foys, Bory St. Vincents and Co., put forth as
History ! Meantime no English traveller who values his time, temper,
or breath, will argue these points. It is useless to attempt to convince
men against their will, and cruel to undeceive their cherished delusion,
arnimi gratissimus error ; qui decipi vult decipiatur.

SPANISH MILITARY AUTHORITIES.


They have two objects: one to detail the systematic razzias and
the wrongs which they sustained from their invaders; the second, to
blink as much as possible the assistance afforded by England, and to
magnify their own exertions. They all demonstrate, to their own and
Spain’s entire satisfaction, that the Peninsula and Europe also, was de
livered from the iron yoke ofBuonaparte by Nosotros, and hy them alone.
Their compilations are wearisome to read, floundering through paltry
partisan guerrillas, “little wars,” by which the issue of the great cam
paign was scarcely ever influenced; they, in a word, join issue with
the Duke, who when a conqueror in France, Spain’s salvation being
accomplished, wrote thus :—“ It is ridiculous to suppose that the
Spaniards or the Portuguese could have resisted for a moment if the
British force had been withdrawn” (‘ Disp.’ Dec. 21, 1813). The tra
veller, when standing on the battle-plains of Talavera, Barrosa, and
Salamanca, will hear the post of superiority assigned to Nosotros, by
whose misconduct on each of these very occasions our full triumph was
marred.
Histoire ole la Révolutimz al’Eq)agne, 3 vols. Leipsig, 1829-31, by
Schepeler, a Vilestphalian, holding a commission in the Spanish service,
and imbued with all the worst national prejudices. Hispanis Hispanior,
he vents his dislike to the French by appalling details of sacks, &c., and
his hatred to the English by sncering at her generals and soldiers.
La Historia Politica y Militar, 3 vols. Madrid, 1833, was compiled
“to order” of the grateful Ferdinand VII. by one José Mufioz Maldo
nado, from official Spanish papers, in order to fool Spanish pride,
“ orgullo nacional,” to the top of its bent, and to write down Col.
Napier’s truthful and therefore most unpopular revelations. Hear the
Duke’s opinions on these Peninsular sources of historical information :—
“ In respect to papers and returns, I shall not even take the trouble of
reading them, because I know that they are “fabricated for a par
ticular purpose, and cannot contain an answer to the strong fact from
grain. XVIII. sr. MILITARY AUTHORITIES. 79
me.” “ Nothing shall induce me even to read, much less to give an
answer to documentos very ingeniously framed, but which do not contain
one word bearing on the point.” (‘ Disp.’ June 4, 1811.) “ I have no
leisure to read long papers, which are called documents, but which
contain not one syllable of truth.” These, like the pieces Qfiicielles et
justificatives of the Buonapartists, on which certain authors base their
astounding romances, are, Anglice, lies, and from them Maldonado
ascribes the glorious result to the petty war of the guerrilleros, and not
to Salamanca and Vittoria nominatim (iii. 442), for the part of Hamlet
is pretty much omitted; it was the Spanish armies that the Duke led
to victory (iii. 594), the English are not even named: the Spanish
military conduct throughout humbled Buonaparte, and “ obfuscated in
sublimity anything in Greek or Roman history” (iii. 601). What
hellebore can cure a disease like this P .
The Historia del Lei/antamiento, &c. de Espaiia, 5 vols. 4to. Madrid,
1133-27, by the Conde de Toreno, the celebrated loan financier and
minister, is written in pure Castilian, although tainted with an affects.
tion of quaint phrascology: he has also borrowed largely from Southey,
without acknowledgment.
All these works, written either by official personages or under the
eye of the Government, are calculated also to suppress the true, and
suggest the false; they advocate the few at the expense of the many;
they defend the shallow heads and corrupt hearts by which the honest
members of the Spanish nation were sacrificed, by which whole armies
were left wanting in everything at the most critical moment, and brave
individuals exposed to certain collective defeat. As Orpheus and San
Antonio charmed brutes, by dulcet strains and sermons, so Spanish
juntas and authors manage to seduce their countrymen by flattering
tales, and by cramming them with Lu Magnanima Mensogna, or
Romance, so congenial to their ardent imaginations and self-conceit:
the universal nation believes greedily what it vehemently desires;
they are told, and doubt not, that their Guerilla or petty war was
the battle of giants; that their puddle was the ocean, their minnows
the tritons, and a very small supply of the oil of facts suffices for the
lamp of their so-called history. The inveterate Eastern idiosyncracy
seeks to be deceived with false prophesies, and “the people love to
have it so.” Hence, as in the days of Jeremiah (v. 31), “ The priests
have rule by these means; and Spanish histories of the war are only to
be paralleled by Spanish histories of monkish miracles and legends.
Far be it from us to imitate theirexample; for, however thwarted by
their miserable leaders in camp and cabinet, honour eternal is due to the
PEOPLE or SPAIN, worthy of better rulers and a better fortune! And
now that the jobs and intrigues of their Juntas, the misconduct and inca
pacity of their wretched Generals, are sinking into the deserved obscurity
of oblivion, the national resistance as a whole rises nobly out of the
ridiculous details, a grand and impressive feature, which will ever adorn
the annals of haughty Spain. That resistance was indeed wild, disor
ganized, undisciplined, and Algerine, but it held out to Europe an
example which was not shown by the civilized Italian or intellectual
German. A wide distinction must ever be drawn between individuals
and their country at large. Thus in speaking of chivalrous, intellectual,
80 xvm. sr. MILITARY AUTHORITIES. Sect. I.
and mighty France, never is the time-honoured glory of the white
panache of her Henri IV. intended to be stained by the foul deeds com
mitted in camp or cabinet, in cloister or city, by criminals whom a
Robespierre Revolution raised to a momentary command; and we gladly
hail in our present ally, a foe whom we ever have found worthy of our
steel in war, and now in peace a no less noble competitor in all that
humanises and ennobles mankind. Esta perpetual
ENGLISH MILITARY AUTHORITIES.
These are of all classes and quality. Among the minor and most
entertaining are the works of Gleig, Sherer, and Kincaid. Hamilton’s
Annals of the Peninsular Campaigns, revised by F. Hardman, 1849, is
(\)llletd]heall}(l:l)1li£:>fi(;rnf1u(l)tettll1"eadll§:liel'ZlnPl1atl0pS mm -the S a“ °" ‘es
fhf'. bet th‘t'.

Southey’s History of the Peninsular War is a true exponent of its


author, a scholar, poet, and blind lover of the Spaniards, their ballads
and chronicles. It breathes a high, generous, monarchical tone; a.
detestation of the tyrannical and revolutionary and a loathing for
cruelty, bad faith, and Vandalism. It is somewhht descriptive, e;cur
sive, and romantic, and the work of a civilian and professional man of
letters; indeed, military men assert that the author had not the
slightest perception of their craft, or ever grappled with the object of
any campaign, or understood a single battle. The Duke thought the
“ book a romance, and so I told him ”—-ipse dixit.
The History of the War in the Peninsula, by Napier, in most respects,
the antithesis to Southey, is the book of a real soldier, and characterified
by abold nervose and high-toned manliness. The style is grap ic
original, and attraclzive. Hi scourges with a whip of steel our own and
the Spanish governmental mediacrities, such, without the Duke‘s DIS
patches, as the world never could have believed. He has placed on
record “ the ignorance and incapacity, the vanity, cowardice, hope‘;
less imbecility
treacherous insane
spirit arrogance
of our and allies,”
lgeninslular restless land
intriguing false, an
has dlgmonstrated,

irrefragably as a problem in Euclid, that “ Spain at the end was


as helpless as she had been at the beginning and all through the war,
glrlldtqpite I1II'l36q1i§.lhtO lher owg Itsleliireilrpncte pit(l11_er alzrmish or pollcyé
a 1 was ngis va our an ngis see irece y egemuso
an English general, which, rising superior to all obstacles, whether pre
seéntectl by lhizi OWI; or ($16 Peninsuéar gofirernniients, (pr by the Ié6l£\l6l‘1S)ll'.);
o na iona c arac er, one wor e ou er in epen ence~ an us es
eflbrts, it may be added, were thwarted by a malignaht oppositiond
whose hopes of getting into place, based on Buonaparte’s success le
them to bully dhd hamper a. feeble ministry; in fact, to defeat the
foe in the field was the easiest of the Duke’s herculean labours.
In vain have authors on both sides of the Pyrenees tried to write
down Napier-’s facts, stern things and sternly expressed in the rough-rider,
double-shotted style of a hard-hitter and good hater ' and be his political
and strategic opinions _\vhat they may, his stated/'a,cts are trustworthy;
foam; t§1edG];-_eat Duke, ‘who ltiked tlieil gallapfit soldtiir asha man, retadiiy
a or e 1m any in orma ion. e au or a 1 oug anxious o e
impartial, is unaware of his strong under-clirrent of democratic preju
Spain. xvni. rmrrinrs HISTORY. 81
dices; his ultra-advocacy of Soult, and idol-worship of Buonaparte, not
merely as a general, but as a man and statesman, justify the excellent
criticism of Lord Mahon, that this work is by far the best French.
account of the war. If Napier’s modern Caesar be the superhuman perfec
tion of civil and military genius, what must that far greater Man be
who cropped all his blushing honours to make a garland for his own
crest? that man who never lost a gun, who never had a sauce quipeut
—no Egypt, Leipsig, Russia, or Belgium—one whose .coup-de-grace,
\Vaterl00, “ settled Boney,” decided the fate of the world, and gave it
peace for half a century—whose Waterloo is an epic of itself, to which
Marengo, Austerlitz, and Jena, are mere glorioles and episodes, full of
sound and fury, and signify nothing P , _
Colonel hlapier deals gently with the Duke s opponents in the field,
treating their systematic plunder, &c., as customs of war. Soult, who
never met the English but to be defeated is in fact the Achilles of his
Iliad, of which th; ill-fated Moore is the “, Hector.” Meantime, the real
“ Deus ex nuzch2'na”—the Duke—is constantly criticised; the faults he
C0II1]:I:;lll31l,€(1 age set right, apd hgqis sho,wn how II111Cl11l bptter the campaign
mig ave een manage in apier s opinion ' a iese commen aries
were indeed written more for the benefit of posterity than of his Grace,
who thug wrote pof M6. lieieeval, Jiuliehfi, 18351 :—I“hNotwithstand(iing
my grea respec or o one apier an is wor r ave never rea a
line of it, because I wished to avoid being led into,a literary discussion,
which I should probably find more troublesome than the operations
which it is the design of the Colonel’s work to describe and record.”
Those curious to see the critic criticised, may turn to the reviews
of ~ Napier’s History, written in the ‘ Quarterly’ by Sir George
Murray, a brother soldier, and one who fought every inch of the cam
paivn.
The recent edition of Napier (1853) is valuable, from the crushing
rejoinder made by the fearless author to the “inventions” of M.
Thierlsfs real French version. f A soldier like Napier may indeed
give is opinion in councils 0 war and battle ' and no Polybius
ever described the actual conflict with more spirit-stirring touch;
blpt wll(11en Monsifeurl; Thigrs lectures a W'ellington on the art of war,
_‘3“ih..3i.°'ii'..1‘e’..i .Z.il‘ZZ";ZyP.i‘.?iZ‘?5§ ?.i‘dmIy{“iii‘$,‘35‘1..?it.1
t t ' ‘ . : $55.13;
general of antiquity, “ but none so bad as this.”
Napier’s new edition is unfortunately disfigured by multitudinous mis
spellings and mistakes in Spanish names and orthography; a reference to
that commonest map and dictionary might have obviated this “ intre
pi ity of error ” to use one of our author’s criticisms of Sir Walter
Scott’s l%is1t;ory,. kIn any future edition an index will add much to the
utility 0 t e wor .
Dispatches of “ the Duke.” This is the mun Enousn book, which
with the companion volumes of immortal Nelson posterity will never
let die: this is the antidote and corrective of all libels, and the final
court of appeal in all questions of real facts. Here is the truth the
whole truth, and nothing but the truth, and no mistake; nothing is
extenuated, nothing is set down in malice. Wellington, born, bred, and
educated like a gentleman, could not lie, like revolutionary upstarts
E 3
82 xvm. wsnuuaros DISPATCHES. Sect. I.
whose low-birth habits no subsequent titles could eradicate. La casquc
sent toujours le hareng. In this country, where “ character ” makes or
mars a man, the Duke would just as soon have thought of robbing a
church, as of tellingalie. Clear in his “ great office,” he never alloyed his
glory with the dross of pillage or peculation. Honesty was his policy ; his
shrine of immortality was approached through the temple of virtue, and
he trusted to a grateful country to provide means to support a dignity
which he had carved out with an untarnished sword. A conqueror of
conquerors, he scorned to bully, and was too really powerful to exchange
the simplicity of greatness for bulletin bombast, the hectoring rhodo
montade of theatrical clap-trap. He scouted all the balderdash of
“ driving leopards into the sea,” of “finishing campaigns with thun
derbolts,” and similar feats, sooner said than done. He was too just
and generous to deny merit to a brave although a vanquished opponent.
Serene and confident in hin’1Self——aZrog an/———l1e pursued his career of
glory, without condescending to notice the mean calumnies, the “ things
invented by the enemy,” who judged of others by themselves: for
wisdom and goodness to the vile seem vile. The Duke’s writings are
the exponent of the man; they give a plain unvarnished tale, with no
fine writing about fine fighting. Every line bears that honest ENGLISH
impress TRUTH, without which there can be no real manliness or
greatness ; and when will any of the “ demigods” of the Revolution dare
to publish his private correspondence P The Duke's own portraiture is
unprecedented, and the moral exhibition of abnegation of self, and of
that first and paramount duty, the serving King and country, is more
valuable than this record of unparalleled military achievements, itself
one more enduring than bronze.
Wellington, the real editor of his works, read all in proof, and cor
rected every page with his own hand. The papers were set up in type
exactly as they had been written. But now, when the campaign was
concluded, always considerate for others, he struck out every name and
sentence which might give pain, and to such an extent, that matter
sufficient for six additional volumes was cancelled. One copy alone
exists of the entire work, and consists of the identical sheets marked
by the Duke’s revising pen. And when the present generation is past,
when personal considerations cease to operate, and historycan fairly
claim its entire rights, these now sealed-up volumes will -raise their
author to even a higher pinnacle, by a more complete display of all
his qualities, both as a man and as a general, and by a further revela
tion of the inadequacy of the means by which ends so great were
accomplished. Then, as he remarked himself, “ When my papers are
read, many statues will have to be taken down.”
The publication of this code of the “Soldier and Gentleman,” this
encyclopaedia of military and administrative science, forced our
opposition to admit the union in him, of all those high qualities which
the glorious profession of arms peculiarly calls forth. In these un
affected documents, they who run must read his love for King and
country, his spotless honour and honesty, exalted sense of duty, god
like presence of mind, self-relying courage in danger, serene equanimity
alike in reverse or victory; his lofty contempt of calumniators-his
self-denial and scrupulous consideration of others -his sagacity and
‘-U
Spain. XIX. HINTS T0 BOOK COLLECTORS. 83
forethought—his unsparing, intense labour of body and mind—last,
not least, his modesty and simplicity.
The nervous, perspicuous, idiomatic style of these despatches, drawn
from deep wells of pure Anglo-Saxon undefiled, is no less truly English
in word than in thought; they tell their own story, with the una
dorned eloquence of real patriotism. The iron energy of his sword
passed, like Oaesar’s, into his didactic pen, and he used either instrument
with equal facility, to turn his antagonists to flight or shame. He fought
as he wrote, and so he spoke. Hyperbolical only in the defence of
comrades, he knew how cheering the note of praise is to the distant soldier
fighting for his King, and how depressing the cold blast of a factious
parliamentary Opposition. He was no Athenian sophist skilled in logo
machies—no practised debater, no intellectual gladiator; he just said
the right thing at the right time, constantly expressing the most in the
fewest words, and his character carried conviction. All understood his
blunt disc0urse—soldier-like, as if giving the word of command; and
few took offence at his honest home-thrusts, or could resist his sledge
hammer blows on the nail’s head. He used his words to explain, not
conceal his thoughts; not a few terse phrases have passed into pro
verbs already—but a quiver might be filled with the pithy, pointed
shafts shot from his mind, that arsenal of sound judgment, wide expe
rience, and common sense-mens sana in corpore sano.
4. msonnnaxnous BOOKS.
The Duke’s Dispatches, so far as they go, give the best idea of Spain
and Spaniards, and of a true Spanish Handbook he must form the hero;
and many are the sites which, gilded by his name and fame, stir up
the inner heart of his countrymen. The other works, native and foreign,
which treat on local and general subjects, will be pointed out in their pro
per places, and form a new branch of literature, \vell worth the considera
tion of the traveller and bibliophile. The 'Bt'blz'ot7wca Hispana Vetus et
Nova, by Nicolas Antonio, 4 vols. folio, Mad., 1788, and edited by the
learned Bayer; although the arrangement isvery in-artificial and confused,
it is one of the best bibliographical works of Spain. The lover of black
letter and of books printed in Spain before 1500, cannot dispense with
the Typographic Espaiiola, Francisco Mendez, 4-to., Mad., 1796. The
Index Expurgatorius, published at Madrid by the orthodox Church, is
also an excellent vade mecum and guide to all about to form a really
good library, as the priests, deadly foes to mind, carefully inserted every
book likely to furnish useful and entertaining knowledge.

XIX.—Hm'rs T0 B001: COLLECTORS.

A word to our beloved brethren bibliophiles. Books in Spain have


always been both scarce and dear, for where there are few purchasers,
prices must be high to remunerate the publisher or importer. The
public libraries of Spain are few and imperfect. Those recently formed
in provincial towns consist of brands rescued from the suppressed
convents, and chiefly relate to monastic and legendary lore. Every
collection or library, again, in Spain is subject to dilapidations_ of
various kinds. There is seldom any catalogue, and, should one exist,
$4 XIX. srmmsn BOOKS. Spain.
it is soon mislaid. None then can check directors and Emplezulos, who -)
pick out the plums, exchange imperfect copies for the good ones, and _
thus men, beggars by birth, end with fine galleries and libraries. Sefior
Conde for example. Quis custodes, custodiat P p
The works mentioned in this Handbook, and principally the topo
graphical, have become rarer and dearer since the publication, as more
collectors have been put on the scent in England, and in France also, as
Monsieur Maison, in his pirated Guide du Voyageur, appropriated all
our bibliographical information, in common with everything else that
suited the French market. Most of the Spanish classic authors have
been reprinted in Paris by the bookseller Baudry, under the direction
of Sefior Ochoa, one not over-qualified for the dificult task.
The lighter literature of Spain of the Picaresque, Salas Barbadillo
class, Los libros de entretenimiento, are very rare. Few copies were '1“
“"7
.~1.~r/(.0
r{.
'"’rr
printed originally, and they have either perished in the use of thumbs
at home, or were exported to Mexico in the reign of Charles lI., when
they met with no sale at home from mystical books being all the fashion.
Many more were burnt by the priests, who, on the death of collectors,
frightened the widows and women (like Don Quixote’s neice) with the
idea of their sensual, Satanic, and heretical tendency.
In the rare instances where books prohibited by the Inquisition were
permitted, they were kept caged like wild beasts under lock and key, and
those semi-permitted were first eniasculated, the best passages borrado or
inked over by the Inqu~isition., who watched with eye of Argus and
hand of harpy over the smallest expression of truth, or the slightest
hint that might set human intellect on thinking. The males of the Sp. ,l
masses to this day read little but their old ballads, and the Cid is still
their hero; while the females love lives of saints, monkish miracles, and
such like obras dc devotion which their Church substitutes for the Bible.
The commonest editions of the classics are hardly to be had. The
Spaniard never was much of a critic or learned annotator; and in
general there are very few of his books by which a foreigner, accus
tomed to better works on the same subjects, wi-ll be much benefited or ."
_,'
4
amused_. Spanish literature, depressed and tincture-d by the Inquisition,
was a creature of accident, and good productions occurred only like
palms in the desert; it never exercised a connected influence on .’?
national civilization, excepting its chronicles and ballads—the chap, /!lc.a'
.,/,1
the household books of the people, and the delight of the vulgar
to this day, consist much of this poetry of national heroism, which
the learned despised, while vast indeed was the proportion dedi
cated to scholastic theology, monkish legends, and polemioal research,
and the cloister was the best customer. ln general there is a want of
sound critical judgment, of bold, searching, truth-grappling philosophy. _! '
The Spaniards themselves are aware of this comparative inferiority, ¢)[,
although none dared, for fear of the furnace, to name the real cause.
Half their works on literature take the explanatory and apologetical
tone. Since the recent changes, matters have had a tendency to im
prove, but still theology, law, and medicine, form the chief subjects.
There are very few classical works beyond mere school-hooks, and those
mostly in Latin. Greek, indeed, was never much known in Spain;
even learned men quoted from Latin translations, and, when they used
Spain. XlX. srarusn BOOKSELLERS. 85
the Greek word, often printed it in Roman letters. Greek books were
either printed in Flanders or procured from .ltaly, owing to the scarcity of
its type in Spain. 'l‘he Latin Vulgate, in fact, superseded the Greek
Testament. German is altogether modern Greek to Spaniards. There
is a sprinkling of English works, grammars, ‘ Vicars of Wakefield,’ and
‘ Buchan’s Domestic Medicine.’ ‘ Valter Scott,’ double done into Spanish
from the French, fares no better than the Bard of Avon—‘ Chespire, que
les Anglais
Niagara écrivent
passed Schakspir
through ;’ who,
a jelly-bag. Realtravestied “ en areimore
French books Franqais,” is like
common,
and especially those which treat on medical, chemical, and mechanical
subjects; and as Spain imports her literature and paletots from Paris,
one of her worst misfortunes is that she is mistaught what is going on in
intellectual Germany and practical England, through the unfair, garbled,
and inaccurate alembic of French translation. This habit of relying on
other nations for original works on science has given a timidity to
Spanish authors, as it is easier to translate and borrow than to invent.
They distrust each other’s compositions as much as they do each other's
word, and turn readily to a foreign book, in spite of all their dislike to
foreigners, which is more against persons than things. The bulk of
Spaniards would as soon think of having a cellar as a library, and gene
rally speaking the trash ofl'ered for sale has few attractions for a
foreigner. A “ reading public ” in Spain, long among the things
wanting out of the Church,is still in an infant state, and is still rocked in
the cradle of Liceos, Casinos, and other copies of trans-Pyrenaean club
civilization. Most of the curious private Spanish libraries were dispersed
during the war of independence, when those which were not stolen by
the J unots, made into cartridges by the Soults and Suchets, or burnt
to heat their camp-kettles, escaped to England, and even the best books of
these are seldom in good condition; the copies are torn, worm-eaten,
stained, and imperfect, for the Spaniards, like the Orientals, never were
collectors or conservators, nor had a real keen relish or perception
of matters of taste and intellectual enjoyment ; they are to modern
nations what the old Romans were to the Greeks—soldiers, conquerors,
and colonists, rather than cultivators of elegance, art-, fancy, and
aesthetic enjoyments. The collector of rare and good books may rest
assured that a better and cheaper Spanish library is to be formed
in one month in London than in one year in Spain. '1‘he native
bookseller, sui generis, and one of the true Cosas cle Espaita, is indeed
a queer, uncomfortable creature for an eager English collector to fall
foul of. He sets ensconced among his parchment-bound wares, more
indifferent than a Turk. His delight is to twaddle with a few cigaresque
clergymen and monks (when there were monks); and in fact they were
almost the only purchasers. He acts as if he were the author, or the col
lector, not the vendor of his books. He scarcely notices the entrance of
a stranger ; neither knows what books he has got or what he has not ;
he has no catalogue, and will scarcely reach out his arm to take down
any volume which is pointed out; he never has anything which is pub
lished by another bookseller, and will not send and get it for you, nor
always even tell you where it may be procured. As for gaining the
trade allowance by going himself for a book, he would not stir if it
rwere twenty-five hundred instead of twenty-five per cent. Recent tra
86 xx. nmrs T0 AUTHORS. Sect. I.
vellers report that now-a-days the genus Bibliopolum Ibericum is get
ting a trifle sharper. In the days of Ferdinand VlI., whenever we
were young enough to hint at the unreasonable proposition of begging
one of them to get us any book, the certain rejoinder was, “ Ah gue! I
must mind my shop; you have nothing else to do but run up and
down streets ”-—tengo que guardar la tienda, V. esta corriendo las
culles. When one of them happens not to be receiving visitors, and,
for want of anything better, will attend to a customer, if you ask him
for any particular work—say Caro’s ‘ Antiquities of Seville,’ he will
answer, “ Veremos——()all again in a day or two.” When you re
turn the third or fourth time, he will hand you Pedraza’s ‘ Antiquities
of Granada.’ It is in vain to remonstrate, as he will reply, “No lc
hace, lo mismo tiene, son siempre antigziedades ”—“ What does it
signify? it is the same thing, both are antiquities.” 1f you ask for
a particular history, ten to one he will give you a poem, and say,
“ This is thought to be an excellent book.” A book is a. book, and you
cannot drive him from that. If you do not admit the proposition, he
will say, “ Why, an Englishman bought a copy of it from me five
years ago.” He cannot understand how you can resist following the
example of a paisano—a fellow-countryman. If he is in good humour,
and you have won his heart by a reasonable waste of time in gossiping
or cigarising, he will take down some book, and, just as he is going to
offer it you, say, “ Ah! but you do not understand Spanish," which is
a common notion among Spaniards, who, like the Moors, seldom them
selves understand any language but their own; and this, although, as
you flatter yourself, you have been giving him half an hour’s proof to
the contrary; then, by way of making amends, he will produce some
English grammar or French dictionary, which, being unintelligible to
him, he concludes must be particularly useful to a foreigner, whose
vernacular they are. An odd volume of Rousseau or Voltaire used to
be produced with the air of a conspirator, when the dealer felt sure
that his customer was a safe person, and with as much self-triumph as
if it had been a Tirantc lo Blane; and, in fact, in the good old times,
selling such books was as dangerous as fireworks-a spark might blow
up shop and keeper. His dismay at the contemptuous bah! with
which these tomes of forbidden knowledge were rejected could only be
depicted by Hogarth.

XX.—HINTs TO Aurnons.

The necessity of a third edition of this Handboolc—con peralon sea


dz'cho—-is one proof that il n’y a plus ale Pyrenees, so far as they
existed to bar out our nomade travellers. Nor has the volume been
altogether useless to many, who think a visit to Spain entails the ne
cessity of “writing a boo ,” just as if it were to 'l‘imbuctoo. The
missionaries from Albemarle Street, the first in many a field, have been
best served, and if some of the substance printed by their followers has
been anticipated by them, the public may not necessarily be the loser;
those who travel and write. the quickest, who indite “.Revelations" from
the tops of dillys, and “ Glimpses” from the decks of steamers, may
Spain. xx. SPANIsH snnsrrrvnsnss. ' 87*
not always benefit mankind by discussing matters they do not quite
understand, whether original or appropriated.
Meantime, to pillage the things of Spain, in peace as well as war, seems
tobe considered fair game by some across the channel. Thus one Mou
sieur Maison has larded his second edition of his own meagre Guide de
Voyageurs en Espagne, Paris, 1851, by wholesale piratical appropriation
of this Handbook, emasculated, indeed, by much suppression of the
truth as regards the Bonapartist invasion. It is seldom that French
travellers have done justice to their neighbour. Light, clever, and amus~
ing, they have chiefly skimmed the surface, writing down on their
tablets the scum that floats up; thus, from their Voyage de Figaro down
to Dumas, they have indulged in a travestie, quizzing tone, to the un
speakable wrath of Spaniards, who, taking the syllabubs seriously,
employ ponderous authors to upset them instead of swallowing the
joke ; so Marliani was set on Thiers, to refute his version of Trafalgar,
and a heavier treatise is concocting to rebut his bulletin of Bailen.
The grave and sensitive Castilians are, and with justice, pained by
hasty glances bestowed by the barbarian eye on only that half of the
subject, of which they are most ashamed, and consider the least worth
notice; this prying into the nakedness of their land and exposing it
afterwards, has increased their dislike towards the impertinente curioso.
They well know and deeply feel their country’s decline ; but like poor
gentlefolks, who have nothing but the past to be proud of, are anxious
to keep these family secrets concealed, even from themselves. This
dread of being shown up sharpens their inherent suspicions, when
strangers wish to examine into their ill-provided arsenals, and the beg
garly account of their empty-box institutions , just as Burns was scared
even by the honest antiquarian Grose—
A chiefs amang ye, tal;in' notes.

At the same time, when Spaniards are once satisfied that no harm is in~
tended in sketching, &c., no people can be more civil in ofi"ering assistance
of every kind, especially the lower classes, who gaze at the, to them, magi
cal performance with wonder: the higher classes seldom take any notice,
partly from courtesy and much from the nil aolmirari principle of
Orientals, which conceals both inferiority and ignorance. Let no
author imagine that the fairest account of Spain as she is, setting down
nought in malice, can content a Spaniard; morbidly sensitive and
touchy, as the worst class of Americans, both are afflicted with the _---.Amfg
notion that all the world, who are never troubling their heads about
them, are thinking of nothing else, and joined in one common conspi
racy, based in envy, jealousy, or ignorance: “ you don't understand us,
I guess.” He considers it no proof either of goodness of breeding, heart,
or intellect, to be searching for blemishes rather than excellences, for
toadstools rather than violets, and despises those curmudgeon smell-V
funguses who find all a wilderness from La Mancha to Castile—\vho see‘
motes rather than beams in the brightest eyes of Andalusia. Many
blots exist, indeed, and Spain and Spaniards have much too long been
taken at their own magniloquent and magnificent valuation. How
shortlived this imposing kingdom’s real greatness! begun under Ferdi
nand and Isabella, and waning even under Philip II. How much was
88 xxx. Fomfs srnusu wor.Ks. Sect. I.
owing to accident and externals—to the possession by Charles V. of the
New World, of Italy, the Low Countries, and Germany! How soon,
as these dropped off and Spain was left by herself, did poverty and
weakness, her normal and present condition, return! After years of
systematic national self-puffing, an honest Handbook, we repeat, is
bound like an appraiser, to do his duty to his employer, yet the whole
unpalatable truth, told here in strict confidence, need not be repeated
to the thin-skinned natives, by those who consult and put faith in a
Red Mu1~ray; and assuredly the Peninsula affords room for other and
more pleasant topics, and many and sweet are the flowers to be yet
gathered.
Those kind readers who do the author of this Handbook the honour
of trusting to his lucubrations on the things of Spain, will find several
other matters discussed at more length in his first edition of this
work, 1845, out indeed of print, but ofi which copies occasionally may
be obtained of Mr. Lee, 440, VVest Strand; and also in his

Historical Inquiry of the Unchangeable Character of aWar i


Spain. Murray. 1837. -
Gatherings in Spain. Murray. 1846.
On Cob VValls—the Moorish and Arabicl
Tupfia _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ IQuart. Rev., No. cxvi.
The Theatre of Spain . . . . . do. do. cxvii.
Banditti . . . . . . . . . do. do. cxxii.
Heraldry, Genealogy, Grandees. . . do. do. cxxiii.
Bull Fights . . . . . . . . do. do. cxxiv.
Ronda and Granada . . . - . . do. do. cxxvi.
The Age of Ferdinand and Isabella . do. do. cxxvii.
Architecture of Spain . . . . do. do. cliv.
Spanish Ladies’ Love—The sack of} do
Cadiz by Lord Essex . . . . . do‘ 01"‘
The Paintings of Spain . . . . . do. do. clxv.
The Literature of Spain . . . . . do. do. clxxiv.
Charles V. at Yuste . . . . - . . do. do. clxxxiii.
Spain in l466—the Bohemian Embassy do. do. clxxx.
Apsley House—-The Duke . . . . do. do. clxx-xiv.
Spanish Ballads . . . . . Edin. Rev., No. cxlvi.
Bible in Spain . . . . . do, do, clv,
Larpent‘s Journal in Spain : . . do. do. clxxxix.
Gipsies of Spain . . . . Brit. and For. Rev., No. xxvi.
Ballads ofSpain. . . I . Westminster Rev., N0. lxv.
Biography of Velazquez . Penny Cyclopmdia.
Campaigns of Wellington . Illustrated. Brettell. 1852.
Bull Fights illustrated . Hogarth. 1852.

XXI.—Tn1~: BULL-FIGHT.

The hull-fight, say what moralists may, is the sight in Spain, and
to see one certainly forms thefirst object of all the younger portion of
travellers from every nation ; and as not to understand after some sort the
order of the course, the salient features, and the language of the “ ring,”
Spam. xxr. THE BULL-FIGHT. y 89

argues in the eyes of the natives an entire want of liberal education,


no Handbook for Spain can be complete without some elementary hints
as to “ what to observe,” and what to say in the arena; there the past is
linked with the present, and Spanish nationality is revealed, and no mis
take, for trans-Pyrenean civilization has not yet invaded this sacred spot.
The bull-fight, or, to speak correctly, the Bull-Feast,‘ Fiesta de Toros, is a
modern sport, and never mentioned in any authors of antiquity. Bulls
were killed in ancient amphitheatres, but the present modus operandi is
modern, and, however based on Roman institutions, is indubitably a
thing devised by the Moors of Spain, for those in Africa have neither
the sport, the ring, nor the recollection. The principle is the exhibition
of horsemanship, courage, and dexterity with the lance, which consti
tuted the favourite accomplishments of the children of the desert. In
the early bull-fight, the animal was attacked by gentlemen armed only
with the Rejon, a short projectile spear about four feet long. This, the
pilum of the Romans, was taken from the original Iberian spear, the
Sparas of Sil. Ital. (viii. 523), the Lancea of Livy (xxxiv. 15), the
axov-new of Strabo (iii. 150), and is seen in the hands of the horsemen of
the old Iberian-Romano coinage. To be a good rider and lancer was
essential to the Spanish Caballero. This original form of bull-fight,
now only given on grand occasions, is called a Fiesta real. Such a one
Philip IV. exhibited on the Plaza Mayor of Madrid before our Charles I. ;
and Ferdinand VII. another in 1833, as the ratification of the Juramento,
the swearing allegiance to Isabel II. (See our paper Quar. Rev., cxxiv.
305.
Tliese Fiestas Beales form the coronation ceremonial of Spain, and the
Caballeros en Plaza represent our champions. Bulls were killed, but
no beef eaten; as abanquet was never a thing of no-dinner-giving Iberia.
“ Nullus in festos dies epularum apparatus ” (Justin, xliv. 2).
The final conquest of the Moors, and the subsequent cessation of the
border chivalrous habits of Spaniards, and especially the accession of
Philip V., which deluged the Peninsula with Frenchmen, proved fatal
to this ancient usage of Spain. The monkey-puppies of Paris pro
nounced the Spanish bulls, and those who baited them, to be brutes and
barbarous. The spectacle, which had withstood the influence of Isabella
the Catholic, and had beaten the Pope’s bulls, bowed before the despotism
of fashion. But while the periwigged courtiers deserted the arena on
which the royal eye of Philip V., who only wanted a wife and a mass-book,
looked coldly, the sturdy lower classes, foes to foreign innovation, clung all
the closer to the pastime of their forefathers; by becoming, however,
their game, instead of that of gentlemen, it was stripped of its chivalrous
character, and degenerated into the vulgar butchery of lo\v mercenary
bull-fighters, just as our rings and tournaments of chivalry, did into
those of ruflian pugilists.
The Spanish bulls have been immemorially famous. Hercules, that
renowned cattle-fancier, was lured into Spain by the lowing of the herds
of Geryon—Giron,—the ancestor (se dice) of the Duque de Osuna.
The best bulls in Andalucia are bred by Cabrera at Ut-rera, in the
identical pastures whereGeryon’s herds were pastured and “lifted ” by the
demigod, whence, according to Strabo (iii. 169), they were obliged, after
fifty days’ feeding, to be driven off from fear of bursting from fat. The
90 XXI. run BULL-FIGHT. Sect. I.
age of lean kine has succeeded. Notwithstanding that Spaniards assert
that their bulls are braver than all other bulls, because Spaniards, who
are destined to kill and eat them, are braver than all other mortal men,
they (the bulls) are far inferior in weight and power to those bred and
fed by John Bull ; albeit, the latter are not so fierce and active, from not
being raised in such wild and unenclosed countries. Some of the finest
Castilian bulls are bred on the Jarama, near Aranjuez, by the Duque
de Veraguas, a great torero and descendant of Columbus, but one who
has not yet discovered a new world. To our graziers these bulls would
seem poor brutes, and gain few prizes at “ the Show,” being raised for
baiting not breeding. \Ve are not going to describe a bull-fight; the
traveller will see it. Our task is to put him in possession of some of
the technical rules and terms of art, which will enable him to pass his
judgment on the scene as becomes a true amateur, an aficionado. This
term aficion is the origin of our “fancy.”
Bull-lights are extremely expensive, costing from 300l. to 4001. a
time ; accordingly, out of the chief capitals and Andalueia, they are
only got up now and then, on great church festivals and holy days of
saints, royal and public rejoicings. As Andalucia is the head quarters
of the ring, and Seville the capital, the alma mater of the tauromachists
of the Peninsula, the necessity of sending to a distance for artists and
animals increases the expense. The prices of admittance, compared to
the wages of labour in Spain, are very high. _
Nor are all bulls fit for the plaza: only the noblest and bravest
animals are selected. The first trial is the Herradura, “Ferradura: 51.
ferro,” the branding with hot iron. The one-year-old calf bulls are
charged by the conocedor, the herdsman, with his garrocha, the real
Thessalian goad, op1m£. Those which flinch are thrown down and con
verted into oxen. The kings of Spain, from Philip IV. to Ferdinand VII.,
attended by their delicate queens and maids of honour, invariably wit
nessed this operation at Aranjuez! The bulls which pass this “little
go,” the Novillos, are in due time again tested by being baited with
tipped horns, embolados; but, since they are not killed, this pastime, as
based on fiction and impotent in conclusion, is despised by the true torero
and aficionado, who aspire only to be in at the death, at toros de muerte.
The sight of the bull-calf is amusing, from the struggle between him
and his majesty the mob; nor is there any of the blood and wounds by
which delicate strangers are offended, as at the full-grown fight. Bull
baiting in any shape is irresistible to the lo\ver classes of Spaniards,
who disregard injuries done to their bodies, and, what is far worse, to
their cloaks. The hostility to the bull, his second nature, grows with
his growth. The very children play at toro, just as ours do at leap
frog, when one represents the bull, who is killed secundum artem. Few
grown-up Spaniards, when on a journey, can pass a bull (or hardly even
a cow) without bullying and insulting him, by waving their cloaks in
the defiance of el capeo. As bull-fights cost so much, the smaller towns
indulge only in mock-turtle, in the novillos and embolados. In the
mountain towns few bulls, or even oxen, are brought in for slaughter
without first being baited through the streets. They are held by a long
rope, toros de curerda, de gallumbo. Ferd. VII., at the instigation of the
Conde de Estrella, and of Don José Manuel de Arjona, founded a tauro
" Spain. xxx." THE BULL-FIGHT. 91
machian university, a Bull-ford, at Seville, near the matadero, or"
slaughter-house, which long had been known by the cant term of el
colegio. The inscription over the portal ran thus :—Fe1~din0m0l0 VII._,
Pia, Feliz, Restawrador, para la ensefianza preservadora de la Escuela de
Tauromachia: Ferd. VII., the pious, fortunate, and restored, for the
preservative teaching of the Tauromachian School. In fact, bread and
bulls, pan y toros, the Spanish cry, is but the echo of the Roman Panem
et Oircenses. The pupils were taught by retired bull-fighters, the
counterpart of the lanistce of antiquity. Candida and Romero were the
first professors: these tauromachian heroes had each in their day killed
their hecatombs, and, like the brother-lords Eldon and Stowell, may be
said to have fixed the practice and equity of their arenas on sound
principles which never will be upset.
The profits of the bull-fight are usually destined for the support of
hospitals, and, certainly, the fever and the frays subsequent _to the show,
provide both patients and funds. The Plaza is usually under the
superintendance of a society of noblemen and gentlemen—-arenae per
pctui comites. These corporations are called Maestiranzas, and were
instituted in 1562, by Philip II., in the hope of improving the breed of
Spanish horses and men at arms. The king is always the Hermano
mayor, or elder brother. These tauromaquian brotherhoods were con
fined to four cities, viz. Ronda, Seville, Granada, and Valencia, to which
Zaragoza was added by Ferdinand VlI., the only reward it ever obtained
-for its heroic defence againstthe invaders. The members, or maestrantes,
of each city are distinguished by the colour of their uniforms: as they
must all be of gentle blood, Hidalgos, and are entitled to wear a gaudy
costume, the person-decorating honour is much sought for. ,
The day appointed for the bull-feast is announced by placards of all
colours. We omit to notice their contents, as the traveller will see
them on every wall.
The first thing is to secure a good place beforehand, by sending for
a Boletin de Sombra, a shade-ticket. The prices of the seats vary
according to position, as the great object is to avoid the sun; the best
places are on the northern side, in the shade. The transit of the sun
over the Plaza, the zodiacal progress into Taurus, is certainly not the
worst calculated astronomical observation in Spain : the line of shadow
defined on the arena is marked by a gradation of prices. The sun of
torrid, tawny Spain, on which it once never set, is still not to be trified
with, and the surnmer season is selected because pastures are plentiful,
which keep the bulls in good condition, and the days are longer. The
fights take place in the afternoon when the sun is less vertical. The
different seats and prices are detailed in the bills of the play, with the
names of the combatants and the colours and breeds of bulls.
The day before the fight the bulls destined for the spectacle are
brought to a site outside the town. N.B. No amateur should fail to ride’
out to see what the ga/n,a,do, the bichos or cattle, is like. The encierro,
the driving them from this place to the arena, is a service of danger, but
is extremely picturesque and national. No artist or aficionado should
omit attending it. The bulls are enticed by tame oxen, cabestros, into a
road which is barricaded on each side, and then are driven full speed by
the mounted conocedores into the Plaza. It is so exciting a spectacle
92 xxr. THE BULL-FIGHT. Sect. I.
that the poor who cannot afl'ord to go to the bull-fight risk their lives
and cloaks in order to get the front places, and best chance of a stray
poke en passant.
The next afternoon (St. Monday is usually the day) all the world
crowds to the Plaza de toros; nothing, when the tide is full, can exceed
the gaiety and sparkle of a Spanish public going, eager and dressed in
their best, to the fight. They could not move faster even if they were
running away from a real one. All the streets or open spaces near the
outside of the arena are a spectacle. The merry mob, always on the
scene, like the chorus in a Greek play, is everything. _ The excite
ment of these salamanders under a burning sun, and their thirst for
the blood of bulls is fearful. It is the bird-lime with which the
devil catches many a. male and female soul. There is no sacrifice even
of chastity, no denial which they will not undergo to save money for
the bull-fight. It is to Madrid what a Review is to Paris, and the Derhy
to London. Sporting men now put on all their majo-finery : the
distinguished ladies wear on these occasions white lace mantillas ; a
fan, abanico, is quite necessary, as it was among the Romans (Mart.
xiv. 28). '1‘hey are sold outside for a trifle, made of rude paper, and
stuck into a. handle of common reed. The aficionados and “ the gods ”
prefer the pit, the tendido, or los anda-mics, the lower range, in order, by
being nearer, that they may not lose the nice traits of tauromuquia.
The real thing is to sit across the opening of the toril, which gives an
occasion to show a good leg and an embroidered gaiter. The plaza has
a langua re to itself, a dialect peculiar to the ring. The coup ol’aeil on
entrance is unique ; the foreigner is carried back to the coliseum under
Commodus. The classical scene bursts on him in all the glory of the
South. The president sits in a centre box. The despejo, or clearing out
the populace from the arena, precedes his arrival. The proceedings open
with the procession of the performers, the mounted spearmen, picadores;
'then the chulos, the attendants on foot, who wear their silk cloaks, capas
de durancillo, in a peculiar manner, with the arms projecting in front;
then follow the slayers, the matadores, and the mule-team, cl tiro,
which is destined to carry oil‘ the slain. The profession of bull-fighter
is very low-caste in Spain, although the champions are much courted
by some young nobles, like our blackguard boxers, and are the pride and
darlings of all the lower classes. Those killed on the spot are denied
the burial rites, as dying without confession. Springing from the
dregs of the people, they are eminently superstitious; they cover their
breasts with relics, amulets, and papal charms. A clergyman is in
attendance with su magestad, the consecrated host, the Incarnate Deity
kept waiting in person, in case of being wanted! for a dying combatant
whose carcase was long denied Christian burial.
When all the bull~fighting company, thus glittering in their gorgeous
costume, have advanced and passed the president, a trumpet sounds;
the president throws the key of the taril, the cell of the bull, to the
alguwcil or police man, which he ought to catch in his feathered hat.
This gentleman is unpopular; the people dislike the finisher of the law,
and mob him by instinct as little birds do a hawk; as the alguacil
generally rides like a judge or a Lord Mayor, many are the hopes and
kind wishes that he may tumble ofi“ and be gored by a bull of Nemesis.
Spain. xxx. THE BULL—FIGli'l‘. 93
The different performers now take their places as our fielders do at a
cricket-match. The bull-fight is a tragedy in three acts, lasts about
twenty minutes, and each consists of precisely the same routine. From
six to eight bulls are usually killed; occasionally another-a toro dc
Gracia—is conceded to popular clamour, which here will take no denial.
VVhen the door of the toril is opened the public curiosity to see the
first rush out is intense, and as none know how the bull will behave,
well or ill, all are anxious to catch his character. The animal feels the
novelty of his position, turned from his dark cell into glare and crowd.
He is the foredoomed Satan of the Epic ; ignorant indeed of his fate, for die
he must, however skilful or brave his fight. This death, the catastrophe
foreshadowed again as in a Greek play, does not diminish the sustained
interest of the spectators, as the varied chances in the progress of the
acts ofi'er infinite incidents and unexpected combinations. In the first
of the three acts the picadores are the chief performers; three of them
are now drawn up, one behind the other, to the right at the tablas, the
barrier between the arena and spectators; each sits bolt upright on his
Rosinante, with his lance in his rest, and as valiant as Don Quixote.
They wear the broad-brimmed Thessalian hat; their legs are cased
with iron and leather, which gives a heavy look; and the right one,
which is presented to the bull,is the best protected. This grieve is teirned
the espinillera-—the fancy call it la mona—the more scientific name is
gregoriara, from the inventor, Don Gregorio Gallo—just as we say a
spencer, from the noble Earl. The spear, garrocha, is defensive rather
than offensive; the blade, la pua, ought not to exceed one inch; the
sheathing is, however, pushed back when the picador anticipates an
awkward customer, and they know a bull’s qualities better than any
Lavater or Spurzheim. A butcherous bull is called carmbero, who
charges home, and again one charge more ; siempre Zlegando y con recargo.
None but a brave bull will face this garrocha, which they recollect
of old. They dislike kicking against the pricks, and remember these rods
of their youth. Those who shrink from the punishment, castigo, are
scientifically termed blandos, parades, temerosos, recelosos, tardos dpartir,
hug/endose ole la suerte, tardos ti Zas cams. When the bull charges, the
picador, holding the lance under his right arm, pushes to the right,
and turns his horse to the left; the bull, if turned, passes on to the
next picador. This is called recibir, to receive the point—recibz'6 dos
puya-zos, tom6 tres varas. If a bull is turned at the first charge, he
seldom comes up well again—terne el castigo. A bold bull sometimes
is cold and shy at first, but grows warmer by being punished—poco
Mornetia 11 su salida, bravo pero reparoncillo, salio frio, pero crecié en
las varas; ducit opes animumque ferro. Those who are very active-—
al_egres, Zigeros, con muchas piernas: those who paw the ground—qae
aranom, escarban la tierra—are not much esteemed; they are hooted by the
populace, and execrated as blandos, cabras, goats, becerritos, little calves,
'1/acas, cows, which is no compliment to a bull ; and, however unskilled
in bucolics, all Spaniards are capital judges of bulls in the ring. Such
animals as show white feathers are loathed, as depriving the public of
their just rights, and are treated with insult, and, moreover, soundly
beaten as they pass near the tablas, by forests of sticks, la caclzipmra.
The stick of the elegant majo, when going to the bull-fight, is sui
94 xxx. THE BULL-FIGHT. Sect. I.‘
generis, and is called la chivalu; taper, and between 4 and 5 feet long,
it terminates in a lump or knob, while the top is forked, into which the
thumb is inserted. This chivata is peeled, like the rods of Laban, in
alternate rings, black and white or red. The lower classes content
themselves with a common shillelah ; one with a knob‘ at the end is
preferred, as administering a more impressive whack. Their stick is
called porra, because heavy lumbering. While a slow bull is beaten
and abused, nor even his mother’s reputation spared, a murderous bull,
rluro chacante carnicero y pegajoso, who kills horses, upsets men, and
clears the plaza, becomes deservedly a universal favourite ; the conquer
ing hero is hailed with “ Viva taro! viva taro! bravo toro l ” Long life
is wished to the poor beast by those who know he must be killed in ten
minutes. The nomenclature of praise or blame is defined with the
nicety of phrenology: the most delicate shades of character are dis
tinguished; life, it is said, is too short to learn fox-hunting, let alone
bull-fighting and its lingo. Suffice it to remark that claro, bravo, and
boyante are highly complimentary. Seco, carnudo, pcgajoso imply ugly
customers: there are, however, always certain newspapers which Qve
fancy reports of each feat. The language embodies the richest portions
of Andalucian salt, and is expressed without any parliamentary peri
phrasis ; during these saturnalia the liberty of speech is perfect; even
the absolute king bows now to the people’s voice; the vox populi is
the vox Dei in this levelling rendezvous of bloodshed. The nice dis
tinction of praise or blame, of merit or demerit, in bulls and artists,
are expressed in scientific terms, which all the toresque “ fancy ” have
at their tongues’ tips, and students will find in the lucid glossaries of
the great works of Pepe Illo and Montes. ‘
- The horses destined for the plaza are those which in England would
be sent to the more merciful knaeker ; their being of no value renders
Spaniards, who have an eye chiefly to what a thing is worth, indilferent
to their sufferings. If you remark how cruel it is to “let that poor
horse struggle in death’s agonies,” they will say, “ Ah que! no vale mi,”
Oh! he is worth nothing. When his tail quivers in the last death
struggle, the spasm is remarked as a jest, mim que cola! or when the
blood-boltered bull is mantled with crimson, your attention is called to
the bel cuewpo de sangre. The torture of the horse is the blot of the
bull-fight: no Englishman or lover of the noble beast can witness his
suiferings without disgust; these animals being worth nothing in a
money point of view increases the danger of the rider ; it renders them
' slow, diliicult to manage, and very unlike those of the ancient combats,
when the finest steeds were chosen, quick as lightning, turning at
touch, and escaping the deadly rush: the eyes of these poor animals,
who will not face the bull, are often bound with a handkerchief like
criminals about to be executed; thus they await blindfold the fatal
gore which is to end their life of misery. If only wounded the gash is
sewed up and stopped with tow, as a leak! and life is prolonged a
minute for new agonies. When the poor brute is dead at last, his
carcase is stripped as in a battle, and looks poor and rippish indeed.
The picadores are subject to hair-breadth escapes and severe falls:
few have a sound rib left. The bull often tosses horse and rider in
one ruin ; and when the victims fall on the ground, exhausts his rage
Spain. xxr. THE BULL-FIGHT. 95
on his prostrate enemies, till lured away by the glittering cloaks of the
ehulos, who come to the assistance of the fallen picador. These horse
men show marvellous skill in managing to place their horses as a ram
part between them and the bull. When these deadly struggles take
place, when life hangs on a thread, the amphitheatre is peopled with
heads. Every expression of anxiety, eagerness, fear, horror, and delight
is stamped on speaking countenances. These feelings are wrought up
to a pitch when the horse, maddened with wounds and terror, plunging
in the death-struggle, the crimson streams of blood streaking his foam
and sweat whitened body, flies from the infuriated bull, still pursuing,
still goring; then is displayed the nerve, presence of mind, and horse
inanship of the undismayed picador. It is, in truth, a piteous, nay,
disgusting sight to see the poor dying horses treading out their entrails,
yet saving their riders unhurt. The miserable steed, when dead, is
dragged out, leaving a. bloody furrow on the sand, as the river-beds of
the arid plains of Barbary are marked by the crimson fringe of the
flowering oleanders. A universal sympathy is shown for the horseman
in these awful moments ; the men shout, and the women scream, but this
soon subsides. The picaolor, if wounded, is carried out and forgotten
—los muertos y iolos, no tienen amigos, the dead and absent have no
friends,—a new combatant fills the gap, the battle rages, he is not
missed, fresh incidents arise, and no time is left for regret or reflection.
\Ve remember at Granada seeing a matador gored by a bull; he was
carried away for dead, and his place immediately taken by his son, as
coolly as a visconnt succeeds to an earl’s estate and title. The bull
bears on his neck a ribbon, la devisa; this is the trophy which is most
acceptable to the queriala of a buen torero. The bull is the hero of the
scene, yet, like Milton’s Satan, he is foredoomed and without reprieve.
Nothing can save him from a certain fate, which awaits all, whether
brave or cowardly. The poor creatures sometimes endeavour in vain
to escape, and they have favourite retreats in the place, su querencia; or
they leap over the barrier, barrera, into the tenolido, among the spec
tators, upsetting sentinels, water-sellers, &c., and creating a most
amusing hubbub. The bull which shows this craven turn—-an tunante
cobarde picaro—is not deemed worthy of a noble death by the sword.
The cry of dogs, perros, perros, is raised. He is baited, pulled down,
and stabbed in the spine. A bull that flinches from death is scouted
by all Spaniards, who neither beg for their own life nor spare that of a
foe. The tension of their excitement is only to be discharged by
blood: and, if disappointed in that of beasts, they will lap that of men :
from insulting bad bulls, they pass to the empresa, the management.
The cries cabestros el circa and it la carreta are anything but compli
mentary.
At the signal of the president, and sound of a trumpet, the second
act commences with the chulos. This chulo signifies, in the Arabic, a
lad, a merryman, as at our Astley’s. They are picked young men, who
commence in these parts their tauromaquian career. The duty of
this light division is to draw off the bull from the picaclor when endan
gered, which they do with their coloured cloaks; their address and
aglity are surprising, they skim over the sand like glittering humming
birds, scarcely touching the earth. They are dressed, 6 lo majo, in
96 xxr. THE BULL-I-‘IG}I'I'. Sect. I.
short breeches, and without gaiters, just as Figaro is in the opera of
the ‘ Barbiere dc Sevilla.’ Their hair is tied into a knot behind, mono,
and enclosed in the once universal silk net, the 'retecilla—the identical
1'eticulum—of which so many instances are seen on ancient Etruscan
vases. No bull-fighter ever arrives at the top of his profession without
first excelling as an apprentice, chulo; then he begins to be taught how to
entice the bull to them, llamar al toro, and to learn his mode of attack,
and how to parry it. The most dangerous moment is when these chzdos
venture out into the middle of the placa, and are followed by the bull
to the barrier, in which there is a small ledge, on which they place their
foot and vault over, and a narrow slit in the boarding, through which
they slip. Their escapes are marvellous ; they seem really sometimes,
so close is the run, to be helped over the fence by the bull's horns. Oc
casionally some curious suertes are exhibited by chulos and expert
toreros, which do not strictly belong to the regular drama, such as the
suerte de la capa, where the bull is braved with no other defence but a
cloak: another, the salto tras cuerno, when the performer, as the bull
lowers his head to toss him, places his foot between his horns and is
lifted over him. (N.B.—The correct term in toresque euphuism is
astas, spears ; cuernos, horns, is seldom mentioned to ears polite, as its
secondary meaning might give ofl'ence ; the vulgar, however, call things
by their improper names) The chulos, in the second act, are the sole
performers ; another exclusive part is to place small barbed darts, ban
derillas, which are ornamented with cut paper of different colours, on
each side of the neck of the bull. The banderilleros go right up to him,
holding the arrows at the shaft’s end, and pointing the barbs at the bull ;
just when the animal stoops to toss them, they dart them into his neck
and slip aside. The service appears to be more dangerous than it is,
but it requires a quick eye, a light hand and foot. The barbs should be
placed exactly on each side—a pretty pair, a good match—buen0s pares.
Sometimes these arrows are provided with crackers, which, by means
of a detonating powder, explode the moment they are afiixed in the
neck, banderillas ole fuego. The agony of the tortured animal fre
quently makes him bound like a kid, to the frantic delight of the
people ; while the fire, the smell of singed hair, and roasted flesh
mingled with blood (a bifstek 6 Z’Es§parZol), faintly recalls to many a
dark seowling priest the superior attractions of his former amphitheatre,
the auto defe. But ceremonious murder delights all classes.
The last trumpet now sounds; the arena is cleared for the third act;
the matador, the executioner, the man of death, stands before his victim
alone, and thus concentrates in himself an interest previously frittered
among the number of combatants. On entering, he addresses the pre
sident, and throws his mzmtera, his cap, to the ground, and swears he
will do his duty. In his right hand he holds a long straight Toledan
blade, la espada; in his left he waves the muleta, the red flag, the
engaiio, the lure, which ought not (so Romero laid down in our hearing)
to be so large as the standard of a religious brotherhood, or cqfradia,
nor so small as a lady’s pocket-handkerchief, panuelito de sefiortta; it
should be about a yard square. The colour is red, because that best
irritates the bull and conceals blood. There is always a spare matador,
in case of accidents, which may happen in the best regulated bull
Spain. xxr. run BULL-FIGHT. 97
fights; he is called media cspada, or sobresaliente. The matador (el
diestro, the cunning in fence in olden books), advances to the bull, in
order to entice him towards him—citarZo a’ Za suerte, fa la jurisdiccion
del enga1'io——to subpoena him, to get his head into chancery, as our ring
would say; he next rapidly studies his character, plays with him a
little, allows him to run once or twice on the muleta, and then prepares
for the coup de grace. There are several sorts of bulls—Zeva1zta/dos, the
bold _and rushing; parades, the slow and sly; aplomados, the heavy
and leaden. The bold are the easiest to kill; they rush, shutting
their eyes, right on to the lure or flag. The worst of all are the sly
bulls ; when they are marrajos, y de sentido, cunning and not running
straight, when they are revueltos, caando ganan terreno y Irematen en cl
bulto, when they stop in their charge, and run at the man instead of
the flag, they are most dangerous. The matador who is long killing
his bull, or shows a white feather, is insulted by the jeers of the im
patient populace; he nevertheless remains cold and collected, in propor
tion as the spectators and bull are mad, and could the toro reason, the
man would have no chance. There are many suertes or ways of killing
the bull ; the principal is la suerte defrente, 6 la veronica-—tl1e matador
receives the charge on his sword, lo maté dc an recibido. The volapie,
or half-volley, is beautiful, but dangerous ; the matador takes him by
advancing, corriendose lo. A firm hand, eye, and nerve, form the essence
of the art; the sword enters just between the left shoulder and the
blade. In nothing is the real fancy so fastidious as in the exact nicety
of the placing this death-wound; when the thrust is true—Z>uen estoque
--death is instantaneous, and the bull, vomiting forth blood, drops at
the feet of his conqueror, who, drawing the sword, waves it in triumph
over the fallen foe. It is indeed the triumph of knowledge over brute
force; all that was fire, fury, passion, and life, falls in an instant, still
for ever. The team of mules now enter, glittering with flags, and tink
ling with bells, whose gay decorations contrast with the stern cruelty
and blood ; the dead bull is carried off at a rapid gallop, which always
delights the populace. The matador wipes the hot blood from his
sword, and bows with admirable sang froid to the spectators, who throw
their hats into the arena, a compliment which he returns by throwing
them back again: when Spain was rich, a golden, or at least a silver,
shower was cast to the favourite matador—those ages are past. These
hats—the type of Grandeza—are the ofiferings, now that cash is scarce,
of generous poverty not will, and as parts and parcels of themselves
shocking bad some, it must be admitted.
When a bull will not run at all at the picador, or at the muleta, he
is called a toro abanto, and the media Zuna, the half-moon, is called for;
this is the cruel ancient Oriental mode‘ of houghing the cattle (Joshua
xi. 6). The instrument is the Iberian bident--a sharp steel crescent
placed on a long pole. The cowardly blow is given from behind; and,
when the poor beast is crippled, anassistant, the caclwtero, pierces the
spinal marrow with his cachete—puntiZZa, or pointed dagger-—with a
traitorous stab from behind. This is the usual method of slaughtering
cattle in Spain. To perform all these vile operations, el desjarretar, is
considered beneath the dignity of the matador; some, however, will
kill the bull by plunging the point of their sword in the vertebrae, cl
SPAIN.—I. 1"
98 xxr. THE BULL-FIGHT. Sect. I.
descabellar-—the danger gives dignity to the diflicult feat. The iden
tical process obtains in each of the fights that follow. After a. short
collapse, a fresh object raises a new desire, and the fierce sport is
renewed: nor is it assuaged with less than eight repetitions; and when
darkness covers the heavens, the rnob—foea: nrmdum satiata--retires to
sacrifice the rest of the night to Bacchus and Venus, with a passing
homage to the knife.
The Spaniards, sons of “ truces Iberi,” are very tender on the subject
of the cruelty or barbarity of this spectacle, which foreigners, who
abuse it the most, are always the most eager to attend. Much may be
said on both sides of the question. Mankind has never been over
considerate in regarding the feelings or sufferings of animals, when
influenced by the spirit of sporting. This sentiment rules in the arena.
In England no sympathy is shown for game—fish, flesh, or fowl. They
are preserved to be destroyed, to afford sport, the end of which is death.
The amusement is the playing the salmon, the fine run, as the pro
longation of animal torture is termed in the tender vocabulary of the
chace. At all events, in Spain horses and bulls are killed outright,
and not left to die the lingering death of the poor wounded hare in
countless battues. Mr. Windham protested “ against looking too
microscopically into bull-baits or ladies’ faces ;” and we must pause
before we condemn the bull in Spain, and wink at the fox at Melton
or the pheasant in Norfolk. As far as the loss of human life is con
cerned, more aldermen are killed indirectly by turtles, than Spaniards
are directly by bulls. The bull-fighters deserve no pity ; they are the
heroes of low life, and are well paid—'voZenti non fit mjuria. We
foreigners come coldly and at once into the scene, without the prepara
tory freemasonry of previous acquaintance, and are horrified by wounds
and death to which the Spaniards have become as familiar as hospital
nurses.
It is diflicult to change long-established usages, customs of our early
days, which come down to us connected with interesting associations
and fond remembrances. We are slow to suspect any evil or harm in
such practices, dislike to look the evidence of facts in the face, and
shrink from a conclusion which would require the abandonment of a
recreation long regarded as innocent, and in which we, as well as our
parents before us, have not scrupled to indulge. Children, L’age sans
pitta’, do not speculate on cruelty, whether in bull-baiting or birds’
nesting. The little dons and duenas connect with this sight their first
notions of reward for good conduct, finery, and holidays, where amuse
ments are few; they return to their homes unchanged, playful, timid,
or serious, as before ; their kindly social feelings are unimpaired. And
where is the filial, parental, and fraternal tie more affectionately che
rished than in Spain? The Plaza is patronised by the Queen our
Lady, Q. D. G., whom God preserve! is sanctified and attended by
the clergy, and conducted with state show and ceremony, and never is
disgraced by the blackguardism of our disreputable boxing-matches.
The one is honoured by authority, the other is discountenanced. How
many things are purely conventional! No words can describe the
horror felt by Asiatics at our preserving the blood of slaughtered
animals (Deut. xii. 16 ; Wilkinson, ii. 375). The sight of our bleeding
Spain. xxx. THE BULL-FIGHT. 99
shambles appears ten times more disgusting to them than the battle
wounds (the order of the day) of the bull-fight. Nor would it be very
easy to conceive a less amiable type of heart and manner than is pre
sented by a mounted English butcher-cad. Foreigners who -argue that
the effects produced on Spaniards are exactly those which are produced
on themselves, are neither logical nor true reasoners; and those who
contend that the Spaniards massacre women and defenceless prisoners
because they are bull-fighters-post hoe et propter hoc—forget that the
unvaried testimony of all ages has branded the national character with
cold-blooded cruelty. They have never valued their own, nor the lives
of others.
Fair play, which at least redeems our ring, is never seen in or out of
the bull fight (yet as yet there is no betting in their “ ring,” no bull
backed to kill so many horses, or a man at long odds). The Plaza
but holds up ‘a mirror to nationality. In it, as out of it, all true
Spaniards scout the very idea of throwing away a chance,—“ dolus an
virtus qmls in hoste reguirat ?” How much of the Punica fides and
Carthaginian indoles is retained, witness the back-stabbings and trea
cheries, by which, from the assassins of Sertorius down to the Morenos,
Marotos, and Nogueras of to-day, Europe has been horrified; these
unchanged, unchangeable features in Oriental and Iberian character
imply little disgrace, and create less compunction. “ Happy shall
he be that taketh and dasheth thy little ones against the stones.” They
rarely observe arnnesties, seldom pardon or forgive opponents when in
their power. These characteristic tendencies, which slumber in quiet
times, but are not extinct; which, however condemned by Spaniards in
dividually, hardly ever fail to guide them when assembled, whether in
cortes or junta; have long preceded the bul.l-fight, which is rather an effect
than a cause. The Spanish have always been guerilleros, bush-fighters,
and to such, a cruel mimic game of death and cunning must be extrernel
congenial. From long habit they either see not, or are not offended by
those painful and bloody details, which most distress the unaccustomed
stranger, while, on the other hand, they perceive a thousand novelties in
incidents which, to untutored eyes, appear the same thing over and over
again. They contend that the more the toresque intellect is cultivated
the greater the capacity for tauromachian enjoyment. A thousand minute
beauties, delicate shades, are appreciated in the character and conduct of
the combatants, biped and quadruped. The first coup-d’oeil of the
gay costume and flashing eyes of the assembled thousands is mag
nificent ; this novel out—of-door spectacle, d Z’¢mtique, under no
canopy save the blue heavens, fascinates, and we turn away our eyes
during moments of painful details-—which are lost in the poetical
ferocity of the whole. These feelings are so infectious, that many a
stranger merges into the native. The interest of the awful tragedy is
undeniable, irresistible, and all-absorbing. The display of manly
courage, nerve, and agility, and all on the very verge of death, is most
exciting. There are features in a bold bull and accomplished comba
tants, which carry all before them; but for one good bull, how many are
the bad! -Those whose fate it has been to see 99 bulls killed in one
week (Madrid, June, 1833), and as many more at different places and
times, will have experienced in succession the feelings of admiration,
F 2
100 xxx. THE BULL-FIGHT. Sect. I.
pity, and bore. Spanish women, against whom every puny scribbler
darts his petty banderilla, are relieved from the latter infliction by the
never-flagging, ever-sustained interest, in being admired. They ha\'e no
abstract, no Pasiphaic predilections, no crudelis amor tauri ; they were
taken to the bull-fight before they knew their alphabet, or what love
was. Nor have we heard that it has ever rendered them particularly
cruel, save and except some of the elderly and tougher lower-classed
females. The younger and the more tender scream and are dreadfully
affected in all real moments of danger, in spite of their long familiarity.
Their grand object, after all, is not to see the bull, but to be seen them
selves, and their dress. The better classes generally interpose their fans
at the most painful incidents, and certainly show no want of sensibility.
They shrink from or do not see the cruel incidents, but adore the manly
courage and address that is exhibited. The lower classes of females,
as a body, behave quite as respectably as those of other countries do at
executions, or other dreadful scenes, where they crowd with their babies.
The case with English ladies is far different. They have heard the bull
fight not praised, but condemned, from their childhood : they see it for
the first time when grown up, when curiosity is their leading feeling, and
an indistinct idea of a pleasure, not unmixed with. pain, of the precise
nature of which they are ignorant, from not liking to talk on the subject.
The first sight delights them: as the bloody tragedy proceeds, they get
frightened, disgusted, and disappointed. Few are able to sit out more
than one course, corrida, and fewer ever re-enter the amphitheatre.
Probably a Spanish woman, if she could be placed in precisely the same
condition, would not act very differently, and the fair test would be to
bring her, for the first time, to an English brutal boxing-match.
Thus much for practical tauromachia ; those who wish to go deeper into
its philosophy—and more books have been written in Spain on toresque
than on most surgical operati0ns—are referred to “ La Carta historica sobre
el Origen y Progresos de las Fiestas de Toros,” Nicholas Fernandez de Mo
ratin, Madrid, 1777 ; “ Tauromaguia, 0 Arte de Tamar ; par un Afici<ma
do,” Madrid, 1804. This was written by an amateur named Gomez;
Jose Delgado (Pepe Illo) furnished the materials. It contains thirty
engravings, which represent all the implements, costumes and different
operations ; “ La Tauromaquih, 0 Arte de Torear,” Madrid, 1827 ;
“ Elogio dc las Corridas de Torus,” Manuel Martinez Rueda, Madrid,
1831; “ Pan y Toros,” Gaspar Melchor de Jovellanos, Madrid, 1820;
and the “ Tauromaquia completa,” Madrid, 1836, by Francisco Montes,
the Pepe Illo of his day, long the joy, glory, and boast of Spain. The
antiquity of the bull-fight has been worked out in our paper in the
‘ Quarterly Review,’ No. cxxiv. 4. See also the graphic illustrations of
Mr. Price, London, Hogarth, 1852.
To conclude it may be remarked, that latterly, since the recent Illus
tracion, the march of intellect, civilization, and constitutions, nothing has
progressed more than the bull-fight. Churches and convents have been
demolished, but, by way of compensation, amphitheatres have been
erected ; but now-a-days the battlement comes down and the dung-heap
rises up—.Bajan Zos adarves y alzomse los muladares.
Spain. XXII. SPANISH THEATRE. 101

XXII. Sramsn THEATRE.


The theatre, dances, and songs of Spain form an important item in the
means ‘of a stranger passing his evenings. The modern drama of Europe
may be said to have been formed on this model, whence was borrowed
the character and conduct of The Play, as well as the arrangements of the
Theatre; and Spain is still the land of the Fandango, the Bolero, and
the guitar.
The Spanish drama rose under the patronage of the pleasure-loving
Philip IV.; but its glory was short-lived, and now it hardly can be
called flourishing, as few towns, except the largest, maintain a theatre.
In Spain actors, long vagabonds by Act of Parliament, were not allowed
to prefix the cherished title of Dam before their names—a remnant of the
opposition of the clergy to a profession which interfered with their
monopoly of providing the public with religious melodramas and
“ mysteries ;” the actor was not only excluded from decent society
when alive, but refused Christian burial when dead, accordingly, in a
land where the spirit of caste and self-love is so strong, few choose
to degrade themselves alive or dead.
The drama, too, of Spain has declined with the country itself, and is
almost eflaced from the repertoire of Europe. The plays of Lope de
' Vega and Calderon have given way to pieces translated from the French;
thus Spain, as in many other things, is now reduced to borrow from the
very nation whose Corneilles she first instructed, those very amusements
which she once taught! The old theatre was the mirror of the manners
of the time, when the bearded Hidalgos strutted on the stage repre
senting the bravoes and bugbears of Europe. Spain was not then ashamed
to look herself in the face; now her flag is tattered, she shrinks from the
present, and either appears in foreign garb or adopts the Cids and Alvas
of a more glorious past. Meanwhile the sainete or Farce is admirably
performed by the Spaniards, for few people have a deeper or more quiet
relish for humour, from the sedate Castilian to the gay Andalucian. In
playing these farces, the performers seem to cease to be actors, and
simply to go through a part and parcel of their daily life; they fail in
tragedy, which is spouted in a sort of unnatural rant, something between
German mouthing and French gesticulation. The Spanish theatres,
those of Madrid scarcely excepted, are badly lighted and meagerly sup
plied with scenery and properties.
The first Spanish playhouses were merely open courtyards, corrales,
after the classical fashion of Thespis. They were then covered with an
awning, and the court was divided into different parts; the yard, the
patio, became the pit. The rich sat at the windows of the houses round
the court, whence these boxes were called ventanas ,- and as almost all
Spanish windows are defended by iron gratings, rejas, the French took
their term loge grillée for a private box. In the centre was a lower
gallery, la tertulia, the quarter chosen by the erudite, among whom it
was the fashion to quote Tertulian--los Tertulianos. The women, excluded
from the pit, have, as at our rails, an exclusive “ ladies’ carriage,” la ter
tulia de Zas mugeres, reserved for themselves, into which no males are al
lowed to enter. This feminine preserve used to be termed La Oazuela—
102 xxn. SPANISH MUSIC. Sect. I.
the pipkin or olla, from the hodgepotch or mixture, and also “ la jaulu
de las mugeres,” the women’s cage. There they congregated, as in church,
dressed in black, and with mantillas. This dark assemblage of tresses
might seem like the gallery of a nunnery ; let there be but a moment’s
pause in the business of the play, then arose such a cooing and cawing
in this rookery of turtle-doves, such an ogling, such a flutter of man
tillas, such a rustling of silks, such telegraphic workings of fans, such
an electrical communication with the pittites below, who looked up with
wistful, foxite glances, on the dark clustering vineyard so tantalizingly
placed above their reach, as to dispel all ideas of monastic seclusion,
sorrow, or mortification. The separation of combustible materials in an
inflammable climate dates from Augustus (Suet., 44). In the fourth
century, at Constantinople, the women sat apart in an upper gallery of
the churches, to the injury and interruption of male devotion.
Good music is seldom heard in Spain, notwithstanding the eternal
strumming and singing. Even the masses, as performed in their cathe
drals, from the introduction of the pianoforte and the violin, are devoid
of impressive or devotional character ; there is sometimes a poorish Italian
opera in Madrid and elsewhere, which is patronised by the upper classes
because a thing of London and-Paris; it bores the true Spaniards to
extinction; they are saltatory and musical enough i.n their own Oriental
way, and have danced to their rude songs from time immemorial, but are
neither harmonious, nor have any idea of the grace and elegance of the
French ballet; bad imitators of their neighbours, the moment they
attempt it they become ridiculous, whether in cuisine, language, or
costume; indeed a Spaniard ceases to be a Spaniard in proportion as he
becomes an Afrancesado; when left to their original devices, they take,
in their jumpings -and chirpings, after the grasshopper, and have a
natural genius for the guitar and bolero ; indeed one charm of the Spanish
theatres is their own national BaiZe—match1ess, unequalled, and inimit
able, and only to be really performed by Andalucians. This is la salsa de
la comedic, the essence, the cream, the sauce piquante of the nights’ enter
tainments ; it is attempted to be described in every book of travels—fo1'
who can describe sound or motion ?—it must be seen. Yet even this is
somewhat scornfully treated by the very upper classes as the uncivilized
feat of picturesque barbarians, and it is, indeed, the eacpression of Spain,
and owes nothing to civilization; the whole body and soul of the south is
represented by movements, as poetry is by words, whereas in France
people dance only with their legs. However languid the house, laughable
the tragedy, or serious the comedy, the sound of the castanet awakens
the most listless; the sharp, spirit-stirring click is heard behind the
scenes—the effect is instantaneous—it creates life under the ribs of death
—it silences the tongues of women—on n’éc0ute que le ballet. The
curtain draws up; the bounding pair dart forward from the opposite
scenes, like two separated lovers, who, after long search, have found each
other again, and who, heedless of the public, are thinking only of each
other. The glitter of the gossamer costume of the Majo and Maja, in
vented as for this dance-the sparkle of gold lace and silver filigree—adds
to the lightness of their motions ; the transparent, form-designing saga
- of the women heightens the charms of a faultless symmetry which it fain
would conceal ; no cruel stays fetter serpentine flexibility. Their very
Spain. xxn. SPANISH muons. 103
bones seem elastic; their frame and physique is the voluptuous exponent of
beings with real bodies who dance, and very unlike the wiry over-trained
professional dancer. They pause—bend forward an instant—prove their
supple limbs and arms; the band strikes up, they turn fondly towards
each other, and start into life. VVhat exercise displays the ever-varying
charms of female grace, and the contours of manly form, like this fasci
nating dance? The accompaniment of the castanet gives employment
to their arms, upraised as if to catch showers of roses. C’est le panto
mime d’amour. The enamoured youth—-the coy, coquettish maiden;
who shall describe the advance—her timid retreat, his eager pursuit, like
Apollo chasing Daphne? Now they gaze on each other, now on the
ground; now all is life, love, and action; now there is a pause——they
stop motionless at a moment, and grow into the earth. There is a truth
which overpowers the fastidious judgment. Away, then, with the
studied grace of the foreign danseuse, beautiful but artificial, cold and
selfish as is the flicker of her love, compared to the real impassioned
abandon of the daughters of the South! There is nothing indecent in
this dance; no one is tired or the worse for it. “ Un ballet ne saurait
étre trop long, pourvu que la morale soit bonne, et la métaphysique bien
entendue,” says Moliere. The jealous Toledau clergy wished to put this
dance down, on the pretence of immorality. The dancers were allowed in
evidence to “ give a view ” to the court : when they began, the bench
and bar showed symptoms of restlessness, and at last, casting aside
gowns and briefs, joined, as if tarantula-bitten, in the irresistible caper
ing.—Verdict for the defendants, with costs ; Solvuntur risu tabulae.
The Bolero is not of the remote antiquity which many, confounding
it with the well-known and improper dances of the Gaditanas, have
imagined. The dances of Spain have undergone many changes in style
and name since the times of the Philips (see Pellicer, Don Quixote, i.
156). The fandango is considered to be an Indian word. The now
disused zarabomda was probably the remnant of the ancient dances of
Gades, which delighted the Romans, and scandalized the fathers of the
church, who compared them, and perhaps justly, to the capering per
formed by the daughter of Herodias. They were prohibited by Theo
dosius, because, according to St. Chrysostom, at such balls the devil
never wanted a partner. The well-known statue at Naples of the
Venere Callipige is the undoubted representation of a Cadiz dancing
girl, probably of Telethusa herself (see Martial, E. vi. 7, and Ep. ad
Priap. 18; Pet. Arbiter, Var“ Ed. 1669). In the Museo Borbonico
(Stanza iii. 503) is an Etruscan vase representing a supper-scene, in
i, which a female dances in this precise attitude. She also appears in the
paintings in the tomb at Cumae, where the persons applaud exactly as
they do now, especially at the pause, the bien parade, which is the
signal of clapping and cries—/mas puede! mas puede! dejala, que se
canse. Orza, orza! zas punalada, mas ajo al pique!
These most ancient dances, in spite of all prohibitions, have come
down unchanged from the remotest antiquity; their character is com
pletely Oriental, and analogous to the ghawassee of the Egyptians and
the Hindoo nautch. They existed among the ancient Egyptians as they
do still among the moderns (compare Wilkinson, 243, with Lane, ii.
98). They are entirely different from the bolero or fandomgo, and are
104 xxn. smnrsn GIPSEY omens. Sect. I.
never performed except by gipsies ; and, as the company is not select,
and more heads than hearts broken, are likened to “ gipsy’s fare,”
“ merienda rle Gitrmos.” Every young antiquarian should witness this
exhibition which delighted Martial, Petronius, Horace, and a funcion
can always be got up at Seville. This singular dance is the romalis in
gipsy language, and the ole in Spanish ; the xelpovopla, brazeo, or
balancing action of the hands,—the Aaxriopa, the zapateado, Zos taconeos,
the beating with the feet,—the crissatura, menco, the tarnbourines and
castanets, Baztica crusmata, crotoZa,—the language and excitement of
the spectators,—tally in the minutest points with the prurient descrip
tions of the ancients, which have been elucidated so learnedly by
Scaliger, Burman, the Canon Salazar (Grandezas do Cadiz, iv. 3), and
the Dean Marti (Peyron, i. 246). These Gaditanian dances, which the
aesthetic Huber (Skitzen, i. 293) pronounces “ die Poesie der Wollust,”
are perhaps more marked by energy than by grace, and the legs have
less to do than the body, anns, and hips. The sight of this unchanged
pastime of antiquity, which excites the lower classes of Spaniards to
frenzy, will rather disgust an English spectator, possibly from some
national mal-organization, for, as Moliere says, “ l’Angleterre a produit
des grands hommes dans les sciences et les beaux arts, niais pas un
grand danseur! Allez lire l’histoire.” However indecent these gipsy
dances may be, yet the performers are inviolably chaste; young girls
go through them before the applauding eyes of their parents and
brothers, who would resent to the death any attempt on their sister’s
virtue, and were she in any weak moment to give way to a busné, or
one not a gipsy, and forfeit her lacha ya trzqaos, her unblemished
corporeal chastity, the all and everything of their moral code, her own
kindred would be the first to kill her without pity.
The dances of other Spaniards in private life are much the same as
in other parts of Europe, and, having nothing national, cease to have a
particle of interest, nor is either sex particularly distinguished by grace
in this exercise, to which, however, they are much attached. Escozesas
and Rigodones form a common conclusion to the tertul1Ja,where no great
attention is paid either to music or custume. The lower, uncivilized
classes adhere, as in the East (Wilk., ii. 239 ; Lane, ii. 64-74), to their
primitive dances and primitive Oriental accompa.niments—the “ tabret
and the harp ;” the guitar and tambourine—-toph, tabor, tympanum—
with the castanet : tympana 1/os buacusque vocat. N0 people play on these
castanets, castanuelas palillos, so well as the Andalucians; they begin
as children by snapping their fingers, or clicking together two bits of slate
or shell ; these castanets are the Baetican crusmata and crotola, and crotalo
is still a Spanish term for the tambourine, and their use still, as in the
days of Petronius Arbiter, forms the delicioc populi. Cervantes describes
the “ bounding of the soul, the bursting of laughter, the restlessness of
the body, and the quicksilver of the five senses,” when this clicking
and capering is set going. It is the rude sport of people who dance
from the necessity of motion; and of the young, the healthy, and the
joyous, to whom life is of itself a blessing, and who, like bounding kids,
thus give vent to their superabundant lightness of heart and limb.
Sancho, a true Manchegan, after the saltatory exhibitions of his master,
professes his ignorance of such elaborate dancing, but for a zapateo, a
Spain. xxn. THE SEGUIDILLA AND GUITAR. 105
knocking of shoes, he was as good as a geriifante. Unchanged as are
the instruments, so are their dancing propensities. All night long, says
Strabo (iii. 249), and Sil. Italicus (iii. 349), did they dance and sing,
or rather jump and yell out, “ ululantes,” the unchanged “ howlings
of Tarshish.”
The Iberian warriors danced armed; like the Spartans, even their re
laxations preserved the military principle, and they beat time with their
swords on their shields. When one of their champions wished to show
his contempt for the Romans, he retired before them dancing a derisive
step (App.BelZ. Hisp. 410). This pyrrica saltatio is of all ages and climes ;
thus the albanatico of the Grecian Archipelago is little changed from what
it was in Homer’s time; the Goths had it, and the Moors likewise; our
morris-dance is but the Moorish one, which John of Gaunt brought into
England, the peasants in Spain occasionally dance it still in all the per
fection of ancient step and costume. The most picturesque exhibition
of these wild dances which we ever saw was at Quintana Duenas. This
armed dance, mimic war, was invented (se dice) by Minerva, who capered
for joy after the overthrow of the rebel angels, giants, Titans-the victory
of knowledge over brute force. Masdeu in the last century describes these
unchanged dances as he saw them at Tarragona (Hist. Grit. ii. 7), when
some of the performers got on each other’s shoulders to represent the
Titans, and the Dance retained its Pagan name--el Titans, Bayles de
Z08 Titanes.
The seguidilla, the guitar, and dance, at this moment form the joy of
careless poverty, the repose of sunburnt labour. The poor forget for
them their toils, sans six sous et sans souci, nay, sacrifice even their meals,
like Pliny’s friend Claro, who lost his supper, Bwtican olives and gaspa
ciw, to run after a Gaditanian dancing-girl (Plin. Ep. i. 15), and, as of old,
this dancing is their relaxation and Requies (Sil. It. iii. 346). In venta
and court-yard, in spite of a long day’s walk, work, and scanty fare, at the
sound of the guitar and click of the castanet a new life is breathed into
their veins ; so far from feeling past fatigue, the very fatigue of the dance
seems refreshing, and many a weary traveller will rue the midnight frolics
of his noisy and saltatory fellow-lodgers. Supper is no sooner over than
“ apres la pause la danse,”-—some black-whiskered performer, the very
antithesis of Farinelli, “ screechin’ out his prosaic verse,” screams forth
his “ coflas de zarabanda, Las Canas," either at the top of his voice, or
drawls out his ballad, “ melancholy as the drone of a Lincolnshire bag
pipe ;” both feats are done to the imminent danger of his own trachea, and
‘ of all un-Spanish acoustic organs, and after the fashion of Gray’s critique,
“ des miaulemens et des hurlemens eifroyables, mélés avec un tintamare
du diable-voila la musique Francaise en abrégé.” As, however, in Paris,
so in Spain, the audience are in raptures; “ all men's ears grow to his
tunes as if they had eaten ballads.” This (Jana, the unchanged Arabic
Gaunia
with ari for
ay!a sonv is sad and
ormsigh. Theserious
companyas love
takesand
partusually begins and
with beatings of ends
feet,
“ tacmeos ;” with clapping of hands, the xporog, “ palmeado,” and
joining in chorus at the end of each verse. There is always in every
company of Spaniards, whether soldiers, civilians, or muleteers, some
one who can play the guitar, poco mas o menus. Godoy, the Prince of
the Peace, one of the most worthless of the multitude ogworthlcss
F
106 xxn. srnursrr corms MUSIC. Sect. I.
ministers by whom Spain has been misgoverned, first captivated the
royal Messalina by his talent of strumming on the guitar. Isaiah gives
the truest image of the desolation of an Eastern city, the “ ceasing of
the mirth of the guitar and tambourine.” In most villages the barbero
is the Figaro, who seldom fails to stroll down to the venta unbidden
and from pure love of harmony, gossip, and the bota, where his song
secures him supper and welcome ; a funcizm is soon armada, or a party
got up of all ages and sexes, who are attracted by the tickling, like
swarming bees, and the more if the stranger volunteers to pay for re
frcslnnents. The guitar is part and parcel of the Spaniard and his
ballads, and, so say the political economists, has done more injury to
Spain than hailstorms or drought, from fostering singng, dancing, and
idleness ; the performer slings it across his shoulder with a ribbon, as was
depicted on the tombs of Egypt 4000 years ago (Wilkinson, ii. ch. vi.).
It is the unchanged kinoor of the East, the xwapa, cithera, guitarra,
githorne; the “ guiterne Moresche ” of the ministrellers (Ducange).
The performers, seldom scientific musicians, content themselves with
striking the chords, sweeping the whole hand over the strings, rasquc
ando, or flourishing, floreando, and tapping the guitar-board with the
thumb, golpeamlo, at which they are very expert. Occasionally in the
towns there is a zapatero or a maestro of some kind, who has attained
more power over this ungrateful instrument ; but the attempt is generally
a failure, for it responds coldly to Italian words and elaborate melody,
which never come home to Spanish ears or hearts; like the guitar of
Anacreon, love, sweet love, is its only theme, épwra poi/ov. The mul
titude suit the guitar to the song ; both air and words are frequently ex
temporaneous ; the language comes in aid to the fertile mother-wit of the
natives; rhymes are dispensed with at pleasure, or mixed up according
to caprice with assonants, with which more of the popular refranes are
rounded off than by rhymes. The assonant consists of the mere
recurrence of the same vowels, without reference to that of consonants.
Thus santos, llantos, are rhymes ; amor and razon are assonants ; even
these, which poorly fill a foreign ear, are not always observed ; a change
in intonation, or a few thumps more or less on the guitar-board, does
the work, and supersedes all difficulties. These moroe pronunciationis,
this ictus metricus, constitute a rude prosody, and lead to music just as
gestures do to dancing,—to ballads,—-“ que se cantan Z>ailando,"’ and
which, when heard, reciprocally inspire a Saint Vitus’s desire to snap
fingers and kick heels, as all will admit in whose ears the habas verdes
of Leon, or the cachuclza of Cadiz, yet ring. The words destined to set
all this capering in motion—not written for cold critics—are listened to ~4
by those who come attuned to the hearing vein—-who anticipate and
re-echo the subject—who are operated on by the contagious bias. Thus
a sound-fascinated audience of otherwise sensible Britons, tolerates the
positive presence of nonsense at an opera. To feel the full power of the
guitar and Spanish song, the performer should be a sprightly Andaluza,
taught or untaught; and when she wields the instrument as her fan,
as if part of herself, and alive, no wonder one of the old fathers of the
church said, that he would sooner face a singing basilisk : she is good
for nothing when pinned down to a piano, on which few Spanish women
play even tolerably. The words of her song are often struck off at the
Spain. XXII. SPANISH MUSIC. TUNES. 107
moment, and allude to incidents and persons present. Sometimes those
of la gente ganza, que tiene zanolunga, are most clever, full of epigram
and double entendre; they often sing what may not he spoken, and steal
hearts through ears, for, as Cervantes says, Caando cantan encantan:
at other times their song is little better than nonsense, with which the
audience is just as well satisfied. For, as Figaro says—“ce qui ne
vaut pas la peine d’étre dit, on le chante.” A good voice, which
Italians call novanta-nave, ninety-nine parts out of the hundred, is very
~i
rare; nothing strikes a traveller more unfavourably than the harsh
voice of Spanish women in general. The Spanish guitar requires an
abandon, a fire, and gracia which could not be risked by ladies of more
northern climates and more tightly-laced zones. The songs, the
ballads, “ this free press” of the people of Spain, and immemorially
their delight, have tempered the despotism of their church and state,
have sustained a nation’s resistance against foreign aggression. .
Not much music is printed in Spain; the songs and airs are frequently
sold in MS. Sometimes, for the very illiterate, the notes are expressed
in numeral figures, which correspond with the number of the strings.
Andalucia is the chosen spot to form the best collection. Don N.
Zamaracola. has published a small selection—‘ Coleccizm de Seguidtllas,
Ttranas, y Polos,’ Mad. 1799, under the name of Don Preciso. The
Seguidillas, Marnehegas, Boleras are a sort of inadrigal, and consist of
7 verses, 4 lines of song and 3 of chorus, estrevillo; the Rzmdenas and
Malagenas are couplets of 4 verses, and take their names from the
towns where‘ they are most in vogue; the term of others, La Arana,
comes from the Havana. The best guitars in the world were made by
the Pajez family, father and son, in Cadiz.
Meanwhile the genuine airs and tunes are very Oriental, of most
remote antiquity, and a remnant of primitive airs, of which a want of
the invention of musical notation has deprived us. Melody among the
Egyptians, like sculpture, was never permitted to be changed, lest any
new fascination might interfere with the severe influence of their mis
tress, religion. That both were invented for the service of the altar is
indicated in the myth of their divine origin. These tunes passed into
other countries; the plaintive maneros of the Nile, brought by the
Phcenicians into Spain, became the Linus of Greece (Herod. ii. 79). The
national tunes of the Fellah, the Moor, and the Spaniard, are still slow
and monotonous, often in utter opposition with the sentiments of the
words, which have varied, whilst the airs remain unchanged. They are
diatonic rather than chromatic, abounding in suspended pauses, and uni
sonous, not like our glees, yet generally provided with an “ estrem'llo,”
a chorus in which the audience joins. They owe little to harmony, the
end being rather to affect than to please. Certain sounds seem to have
a mysterious aptitude to express certain moods of the mind in connection
with some unexplained sympathy between the sentient and intellectual
organs : the simplest are by far the most ancient. Ornate melody is a
modern invention from Italy; and although, in lands of greater inter
course and fastidious civilization, the conventional has ejected the
national, fashion has not shamed or silenced the old-ballad airs of Spain
—-those “ howlings of Tarshish.” Indeed, national tunes, like t_he.songs
of birds, are not taught in orchestras, but by mothers to their infant
108 xxnr. srsmsn CIGARS. Sect. I.

progeny in the cradling nest. As the Spaniard, in the mass, is warlike


without being military, saltatory without being graceful, so he is musical
without being harmonious; he continues much the raw man material _
made by nature, and treating himself mostly as he does the raw products
of his soil, takes things as he finds them, leaving art and final develop ¢__
ment to the foreigner. He is better seen in the streets than in the
saloon—in the Serrania and far from cities. The venta after all is the
true opera.-house of Spain: all the rest is London leather or Parisian
prunella ; y no vale nada. The student may consult Origen de Teatro
Espafiol, M. Garcia, Madrid, 1802 ; Tratado del Histrionismo, Pellicer,
Madrid, 1804; Origines del Teatro Espanol, Moratin, Madrid, 1830;
and the excellent work on the Spanish Theatre by the German Schak ;
see also our papers, on the Spanish Stage, ‘Quart. Rev.’ No. oxvii. ;
and on Spanish Ballads, ‘ Edin. Rev.’ No. cxlvi.

XXIII. Smmsn Crease.

But whether at the bull-fight or theatre, lay or clerical, wet or dry,


the Spaniard during the day, sleeping excepted, solaces himself, when he
can, with a cigar ; this is his nepenthe, his pleasure opiate, his te veniente
die et te decedente, which soothes but not inebriates.
The manufactory of the cigar is not the least active of all carried on
in the Peninsula. The buildings are palaces ; witness Seville, Malaga,
and Valencia. As a cigar is a sine qua non in a Spaniai-d’s mouth, it
must have its page in a Spanish Handbook. Ponz, the first in that
field, remarks (ix. 201), “ You will think me tiresome with my tobac
conistical details, but the vast bulk of my readers will be more pleased
with it than with an account of all the pictures in the world.” This
calumet of peace is the poor man's friend, calms the mind, soothes the
temper, and makes men patient under trouble. and hunger, heat, and
despotism. “Quoique puisse dire,” said Moliere, “Aristote et toute
la philosophic, il n’y a rien d’égal au tabac.” In larderless Spain it is
meat and drink both, and the chief smoke connected with caterings
for the mouth issues from labial chimneys.
Tobacco, this anodyne for the irritability of human reason, is, like
spirituous liquors which make it drunk, a highly-taxed article in civi
lized societies. In Spain, the Bourbon dynasty (as elsewhere) is the
hereditary tobacconist-general ; the privilege is generally farmed out to
some contractor: accordingly, a really good home-made cigar is with
difficulty to be had in the Peninsula for love or_money. There seems to
be no royal road to the science of cigar-making; the article is badly
made, of bad materials, and, to add insult to injury, charged at an
exorbitant price. In order to benefit the Havana, tobacco is not allowed
to be grown in Spain, which it would do perfectly near Malaga, for
when the experiment was made, and proved successful, the cul
tivation was immediately prohibited by the government The bad
ness and dearness of the royal article favours the well-meaning smuggler ;
and this corrector of blundering chancellors of exchequers provides a
better and cheaper thing from Gibraltar. No ofl’ence is more dreadfully
punished in Spain than that of tobacco-smuggling, which robs the royal
pocket—all other robbery is as nothing, for the lieges only suffer.
'_" "
"'\1
Spain. xxrn. smursn CIGARITO. 109
The encouragement afforded to the manufacture and smuggling of
cigars at Gibraltar is a never-failing source of ill blood and ill will
between the Spanish and English governments. This most serious evil
is contrary to treaties, injurious to Spain and England alike, and is
beneficial only to aliens of the worst character who form the real plague
and sore of the Rock.
Many tobaccose epicures, who smoke their regular dozen, place the
supply suflicient for the day, between two fresh lettuce-leaves, which
improves the narcotic effect. Ferdinand VII. was not only a great
manufacturer but consumer of certain Purzmes, a large thick cigar
made expressly for his gracious use in the Havana, and of the vuelta.
de abajo, the very best, for he was too good a judge to smoke his own
_..‘ manufacture. The cigar was one of his pledges of love and hatred:
when meditating a treacherous coup, he would give graciously a royal
weed to a minister, and when the happy individual got home to smoke
it, he was saluted by an alguacil with an order to quit Madrid in twenty
four hours.
The bulk of Spaniards cannot afford either the expense of tobacco,
which is dear to them, or the loss, of not losing time, which is very
cheap, by smoking a whole cigar: a single cigar furnishes occupation
and recreation for half an hour. Though few Spaniards ruin themselves
in libraries, fewer are without a little blank book of papal ale kilo, a
particular paper made best at Alcoy, in Valencia. At any pause all say
at once—-pues sefiores! echemos un c1lgam'to—well then, gentlemen, let
us make a little cigar: when forthwith all set seriously to work;
every Spaniard, besides this book, is armed with a small case of flint,
steel, and a combustible tinder, “yesca.” To make a paper cigar, like
putting on a cloak, flirting a fan, or clicking castanets, is an ope
ration of much more difficulty than it seems, but Spaniards, who
have done nothing so much from their childhood upwards, per
form both with extreme facility and neatness. This is the mode :
the petacca (Arabice Butak), a cigar case worked by a fair hand in
coloured pita (the thread from the aloe), is taken out--a leaf is torn
from the book, which is held between the lips, or downwards from the
back of the hand, between the fore and middle finger of the left hand
a portion of the cigar, about a third, is cut off and rubbed slowly in the
palms till reduced to a powder—it is then jerked into the paper-leaf,
which is rolled up into a little squib, and the ends doubled down, one
of which is bitten off and the other end is lighted. The cigarillo is
smoked slowly, the last whiff being the bonne bouche, the breast, la
pechuga. The little ends are thrown away (they are indeed little, for a
Spanish fore-finger and thumb is quite fire-browned and fire-proof).
Some polished exquisites, pollos, use silver holders. These remnants are
picked up by the beggar-boys, who make up into fresh cigars the
leavings of a thousand mouths. On the Prados and Alamedas urchins
always are running about with a rope slowly burning for the benefit of
the public. At many of the sheds where water and lemonade are sold,
one of these ropes, twirled like a snake round a post, is kept always
ignited, as the match of a besieged artilleryman. In the houses of the
aflluent a small silver chafing-dish, prunce batillum, filled with lighted
charcoal, is usually placed on a table. This necessity of a light levels all
110 xxrv. smnrsrr cosrcmn. Sect. I.
ranks; it is allowable to stop any person in the streets, for fire, “fuego,”
“ camlela. ;” thus a cigar forms the bond of union, an isthmus of com
munication between most heterogeneous ranks and ages. Some of the
Spanish fair sex are said to indulge in a quiet cigurilla, una pajita; but
it is not thought either a sign of a real lady, or of one of rigid virtue,
to have recourse to stolen and forbidden pleasures; for whoever makes
one basket will make a hundred—quien Imce un cesto, ham un ciento.
Nothing exposes a traveller to more difficulty than carrying tobacco
in his luggage; whenever he has more than a certain small quantity,
let him never conceal it, but declare it at every gate, and be provided
with a guia, or permit. Yet all will remember never tobe without some
cigars, and the better the better; for although any cigar is acceptable,
yet a real good one is more tempting than the apple was to Eve. The
greater the enjoyment of the smoker, the greater his respect for the
donor; a cigar may be given to everybody, whether high or low, and the
petaca may be presented, just as a Frenchman of La vieille cour offered
his snufi"-box, as a prelude to conversation. It is an act of civility, and
implies no superiority ; there is no humiliation in the acceptance—it is
twice blessed—“ it blesseth him that gives and him that takes ;”—it is
the spell wherewith to charm the natives, who are its ready and obedient
slaves, and a cigar, like a small kind word spoken in time, works miracles.
There is no country in the world where the stranger and traveller can
purchase for half-a-crown, half the love and good-will which its invest
ment in tobacco will ensure : a man who grudges or neglects it is neither
a philanthropist nor a philosopher.
Offer, therefore, your cigar-case freely and cheerfully, dear traveller,
when on the road; but if you value your precious health of mind or
body, your mens sana in corpore sano, the combined and greatest
blessings in this life, use this bane of this age but sparingly your
self: abuse it not. An early indulgence in this vicious and expen
sive habit saps life. The deadening influence of this slow but sure
poison tampers with every power conferring secretion of brain and
body; and although the efl°ects may not be felt at the moment, the
cigaresque spendthrift is drawing bills on his constitution which in a.
few years assuredly must fall due, and then, when too late, he will dis
cover what far higher pleasures, intellectual and physical, have been
sacrificed for the filthy weed.

XXIV.—SPANISH COS'1‘UME—OLOAK AND MANTILLA.

The Spaniards, in spite of the invasions of French milliners and


English tailors, have retained much of a national costume, that pic
turesque type, which civilization, with its cheap and common-place
calico, is, alas! busily effacing. As progress in Spain is slow, fortunately
the Oapa and Mantilla, nowhere else to be met with in Europe, still
remain to gladden the eye of the stranger and artist, and however they
may be going out of fashion at Madrid, are fortunately preserved in the
' provinces.
Dress, from its paramount importance, demands a page. We strongly
recommend our readers, ladies as well as gentlemen, whose grand object
IS to pass in the crowd incognito and unnoticed, to re-rig themselves out
Spain. xxrv. SPANISH MANTILLA. Ill

at the first great town at which they arrive, for unless they are dressed
like the rest of the world, they will everywhere be stared at, and be
pestered by beggars,.who particularly attack strangers.
Black from time immemorial has been the favourite, the national
0010111‘, pehaueapoves mi-rrav-res -ro qrhetov ev u'a'yozs(St1'ab0, iii. 233). This
male sagum is the type of the modern suya or basquiira, the outer petti
coat, feminine, which is always black, and is put over the indoor dress
on going out. The Greeks translated the Tyrian phrase “ Bewitching
of naughtiness” by the term Baa-Kama. Black, the colour of etiquette
and ceremony, is the only one in which women are allowed to enter
churches. Being that of the learned professions, it makes Spaniards seem
wiser, according to Charles V., than they really are; while, from being
the garb of the bereaved, it disarms the evil eye which dogs prosperity,
and inspires, instead of associations of envy, those of pity and respect.
It gives an air of decorum and modesty, and softens an indifferent skin.
Every one in England has been struck with the air of respectability
which mourning confers, even on ladies’ maids. The prevalence of
black veils and dark cloaks on the Alameda and in the church, conveys
to the stranger newly arrived in Spain the idea of a population of nuns
and clergymen. As far as woman is concerned, the dress is so becoming,
that the diificulty is to look ugly in it; hence, in spite of the monotony,
we are pleased with a uniformity which becomes all alike; those who
cannot see its merits should lose no time in consulting their oculist.
The beauty of the Spanish women is much exaggerated, and more
loveliness is to be seen in one fine day in Regent-street than in a year
in Spain. Their charm consists in symmetry of form, grace of manner
and expression, and still more, as in the case of a carp or Raie cu beurre
noir, in the dressing; yet, such is the tyranny of fashion, that many of
its votaries are wil ling to risk the substance for the shadow, and to strive,
instead of remaining inimitable originals, to become second-rate copies.
Faithless to true Espaiiolismo, they sacrifice on the altar of La mode dc
Paris even attraction itself. The Cocos, or cottons of Manchester, are
superseding the Alepines, or bombazeens of Valencia, as the blinkers and
bonnets of the Boulevards are eclipsing the Mantillas.
The Mantilla is the aboriginal female head-gear. Iberia, in the early
coins, those picture-books of antiquity, is represented as a veiled woman ;
the Ka)\v1rrpa p,s)uuvr; was supported by a sort of cock’s-comb, |<opa§, and
the partial concealment of the features was thought even in those days
to be an ornament (Strabo, iii. 164). Thus Poppaa, according to
Tacitus, managed her veil quia sic decebat. The cam tupida or tapada,
or face so enveloped, was always respected in Spain, and even Messalina
shrouded under the mantle of modesty her imperial adulteries. The
Gothic mantum so called, says S‘. Isidoro (Or. xix. 24), quia manus
tegat tantum, was made of a thickish cloth, as it was among the Cartha
ginians (see the Mantilia of Dido, En. iv. 705), whence the Moorish
name Mantil. The Mantilla, an elegant diminutive of the Manta, is
now made of silk or lace; formerly it was substituted by the coarse
petticoat among the lower classes, who, like Sancho Panza’s wife, turned
them over their heads from pure motives of economy. In fact, as in the
East, the head and face of the female were seats of honour, and never to
be exposed ; accordingly, by a decree of Philip IV., a woman’s mantilla
112 xxrv. srxrnsn MANTILLA. Sect. I.
could not be seized for debt, not even in case of the crown. From being
the essential article of female gear, the manto has become a generic
term, and has given its name to our milliners, who are called mantua
makers.
There are three kinds of mantillas, and no lady can properly do without
a complete set: first the white, used on grand occasions, birth-days,
bull-fights, and Easter Mondays, and is composed of fine blonde or lace
embroidery ; yet it is not becoming to Spanish women, whose sallow olive
complexion cannot stand the contrast, so that Adrian compared one thus
dressed to a sausage wrapt up in white paper. The second is black,
made of raso or alcpin, satin or bombazeen, often edged with velvet, and
finished off with deep lace fringe. The third, used on ordinary occa
sions, and by the Fancy, and called Mantilla dc tira, has no lace, but
is made of black silk with a broad band of velvet. This, the veil of the
Maja, the Gitana, peculiarly becomes their eye of diamond and their
locks of jet. The Mantilla used to be suspended on a high comb,
peineta, and then crossed over the bosom, which is, moreover, concealed
by a parizwlo, or handkerchief. These are the “ hoods and ushers” of
Hudibras, and without them, unless the house was on fire, no woman
formerly would go out into the streets, and indeed when thus enveloped
nothing can be more decent than the whole upper woman; mat:-once
procterfaciem nil C61"!t87‘6 posses. The smallest display of the neck, &c.,
or patriotismo, is thought over-liberal and improper, and one of the great
secrets of a Spanish womau’s attraction is, that most of her charms are
hidden.
The Mantilla is kept in its proper place by the fan, abanico, which is
part and parcel of every Spanish woman, whose nice conduct of it leaves
nothing to be desired. No one understands the art and exercise of it, the
mancjo, like her: it is the index of her soul, the telegraph of her chame
lion feelings, her signal to the initiated, which they understand for good
or evil as the wagging of a dog’s tail. She can express with her dumb
fan more than Paganini could with his fiddlestick. A handbook might
be written to explain the code of signals. Remember not to purchase
any of the old Rococo fans which will be offered for sale at Cadiz and
Seville as Spanish, being however all made in France; the prices asked
are exorbitant, for which foolish English collectors may thank them
selves. There are more and better of these fans to be had in \Vard0ur
street than in all Andalucia, and for a quarter of the money.
The Mantilla, properly speaking, ought not to be worn with curls,
rizos, recently introduced by some French perruquiers; these are
utterly unsuited to the melancholy pensive character of the Spanish
female face when in repose, and particularly to her Moorish eyes, which
never passed the Pyrenees; indeed, first-rate amateurs pronounce the
real ojos arabes, like the palm-tree, to be confined to certain localities.
The finest are “ raised ” in Andalucia; they are very full, and repose
-on a liquid somewhat yellow bed, of an almond shape.
The Spanish hair is the glory of the sex; herein, like Samson’s, is
the secret of her strength, for, if Pope be infallible, “ Her beauty draws
us by a single hair ”—Sancho Panza says more than a hundred oxen.
It is very black, thick, and often coarser than a courser’s_' tail, especially
with the lower classes; nourished by copious Zarding, ’and undwarfed
Spam. XXIV. SPANISH cam. 113
by caps, it grows like the “ bush,” and occasionally becomes the well
stocked preserve of caea menor, which afford constant sport and occupa
tion to most picturesque groups Z1 la Murillo.
The hair of the better classes is attended to with the greatest care,
and is simply braided d la Madonna over a high forehead. The Iberian
ladies, reports Strabo (iii. 248), were very proud of the size of this
palace of thought, and carefully picked out the 1rpo|<op.La, the superfluous
items, to increase its dimensions. The Andaluza places a real flower,
generally a rose or a red pink, among her raven locks; the children
continue to let long Carthaginian plaited Trensa hang down their backs.
There are two particular curls which deserve serious attention: they are
circular and flat, and are fastened with white of egg to the side of each
cheek: they are called Patillas or Pieardias, Rogueries—Carac0les de
.-1mor—the French accroches coeur, “ springes to catch woodcocks.”
These are Oriental. Some female mummies have been discovered with
their patillas perfectly preserved and gummed on after 3000 years: the
ruling passion strong in death (Wilk. ii. 370). The Spanish she-Goths
were equally particular. S“. Isidoro (Or. xix. 31) describes some curls,
anciae, with a tact which becomes rather the Barbiere de Seuilla than
its archbishop. When a Andaluca turns out with her hair dressed in
its best, she is capable, like Roxalana, of upsetting empires, trastornar
el mu/ndo. '
Thus much for our fair readers; one word now on the chief item of
male costume in Spain. The cloak, capa, is to man what the saya and
mantilla are to woman. The Spaniards represent the gens togata of
antiquity, and their capa is the unchanged Paenula, Tefiewa. This
emblem of civilization and symbol of Roman influence was introduced
into Spain by Sertorius, who, by persuading the natives to adopt the
dress, soon led them to become the admirers, then subjects, of Rome—
Cedent arma togoe. The Andaluciaiis (Strabo, iii. 254) were among the
first to follow this foreign fashion. They gloried in their finery like the
Germans, not seeing in this livery, as Tacitus did, a real badge of the
loss of national independence-—“ Inde liabitus nostri honor, et frequens
toga, idque apud imperitos, humanitas vocabatur, cum pars cervitutis
esset.” Much the same case is now going on with French bonnets and
English coats; the masses of Spaniards have never left off their cloaks
and jackets. This jacket, the ancient xn-mu, tunica, synthesis, was
worn by the Carthaginians (Plant. Porn. v. 2), just as it is now by the
Moors. The Spaniards live in jackets, they are the “tunicatus pro
pellus ” of Europe. Augustus Caesar, who, according to Suetonius, was
chilly, wore as many as Hamlet’s gravedigger does Waistcoats. Fer
dinand VlI., the week before his death, who gave afarewell audience to
a foreign minister in a jacket, died in harness: like him and Caesar,
Spaniards, when in the bosom of their families, seldom wear any other
dress. O tunicata quies! exclaiins Martial (x. 51); nor can anything
ever exceed the comfort of a well-made Zamarra, a word derived from
Simiir—mustela Scythiea. The merit and obvious origin of this sheep
skin costume account for its antiquity and unchanged usage. S".
Isidoro (Or. xix. 24) calls it pallium, a pelle.
The capa is cut in a peculiar manner and rounded at the bottom ; the
circumference of the real and correct thing is seven yards all but three
114 xxiv. sumsn CLOAK. Sect. I.
inches and a half: “bis ter ulmrum toga. As cloaks, like coats, are
cut according to a man’s cloth, a scanty capo, like the “toga arcta " of
Horace, does not indicate afiluencc or even respectability. S". lsidoro
did well to teach his Goths that their toga was a tegendo, because it
concealed the whole man, as it does now, and well, provided it be a
good one; una buena capa, todo tapa. It covers a multitude of sins,
and especially pride and p0verty—the twin sisters of Iberia. The
ample folds and graceful drapery give breadth and throw an air of
stately decency—nay, dignity--over the wearer; it not only conceals
tatters and nakedness, but appears to us to invest the pauper with the
abstract classicality of an ancient peripatetic philosopher, since we never
see this costume of Solons and Caesars except in the British Museum.
A genuine Spaniard would sooner part with his skin than his capa ;
thus when Charles III. wanted to prohibit their use, the people rose in
arms, and the Squillacci, or anti-cloak ministry, was turned out. The
capa fits a Spaniard admirably ; it favours habits of inactivity, prevents
the over-zealous arms or elbows from doing anything, conceals a knife
and rags, and, when mufiled around, offers a disguise for intrigues and
robbery; capa y espada accordingly became the generic term for the
profligate comedy which portrayed the age of Philip IV.
The Spanish clergy never appear in public without this capa, and
the readers of the Odyssey need not be reminded of the shifts to which
Ulysses was put when “ he left his cloak behind.” St. Paul was
equally anxious about his, when he wrote his Second Epistle to
Timothy; and Raphael has justly painted him in the cartoon, when
preaching at Athens, wearing his cloak exactly as the Spanish people
do at this moment. Nothing can appear more ludicrous to a Spanish
eye than the scanty, narrow, capeless, scapegrace cloaks of English cut:
the wearer of one will often see the lower classes grinning, without
knowing why. They are staring at his cloak, its shape, and way of
putting it on. When a stranger thinks that he is perfectly incognito,
he is pointed out to the very children, and is the observed of all
observers. All this is easily prevented by attention to a few simple
rules. N0 one can conceive the fret and petty continual worry to
which a stranger is exposed both from beggars and the impertinente
curioso tribe by being always found out; it embitters every step he
takes, mars all privacy, and keeps up a continual petty fever and ill
humour.
A wise man will therefore get his cloak made in Spain, and by a
Spanish tailor, and the more like that most generally worn the better.
He may choose it of blue colour, and let the broad hem or stripe be
lined with black velvet; red or fancy colours and silks are muy charm,
gaudy and in bad taste : he must never mnit a cape——dengue esclavina,
whence our old term sclaveyn. A capa without a cape is like a cat
without a tail. As the clerical capa is always black, and distinguished
from the lay one by its not having a cape. Whenever an Englishman
comes out with a blue cloak and no cape, it appears quite as ludicrous
to Spanish eyes as to see a gentleman in a sack or in a red cassock. It
is applying a form of cut peculiar only to clergymen to colours which
are only worn by laymen. Having got a correct caps, the next and
not less important step is to know how to wear it; the antique is the
Spain. xxrv. now TO PUT 1r cs. 115
true model ; either the capa is allowed to hang simply down from the
shoulders, or it is folded in the embozo, or 6 lo majo: the embozar con
sists in taking up the right front fold and throwing it over the left
shoulder, thus mufliing up the mouth, while the end of the fold hangs
half way down the back behind: it is diflicult to do this neatly,
although all Spaniards can ; for they have been practising nothing else
from the age of breeches, as they assume the toga almost when they
leave off petticoats. No force is required; it is done by a knack, n
sleight of hand : the cloak is jerked over the shoulder, which is gently
raised to meet and catch it; this is the precise form of the ancients,
the an/aBa)\7\ea-Gar of Athenaeus (i. 18). The Goths wore it in the same
manner (S'1- lsidoro, Or. xix. 24). ‘ When the embozo is arranged, two
fingers of the right hand are sometimes brought up to the mouth and
protrude beyond the fold : they serve either to hold a cigar or to tele
graph a passing friend. It must be remembered by foreigners that, as
among the ancient Romans (Suet. in Olaud, vi.), it is not considered
respectful to remain embozado on ceremonious occasions. Uncloaking is
equivalent to taking off the hat; Spaniards always uncloak when Sn
Jllajestad, the host or the king, passes by, the lower orders uncloak
when speaking to a superior : whenever the traveller sees one not do that
with him, let him be on his guard. Spaniards, when attending a funeral
service in a church, do not rend, but leave their cloaks at home behind
them : the etiquette of mourning is to go without their capa. As this
renders them more miserable than fish out of water, the manes of the
deceased must necessarily be gratified by the sincerity of the sorrow of
his surviving and shivering friend. -
The rnajo fashion of the wearing the cloak, is that which is adopted
by the chulos when they walk in procession around the arena, before
the bull-fight commences. It is managed thus: take the right front
fold, and whip it rapidly under the left elbow, pressing down at the‘
same time the left elbow to catch it; a sort of deep bosom, the ancient
umbo, sinus, is thus formed, and the arms are left at liberty. The
celebrated Aristides at Naples is cloaked somewhat in this fashion. l'Ve
strongly advise the newly arrived traveller to get his tailor or some
Spaniard just to give him a few lessons how to perform these various
evolutions; without this he will never pass in a crowd. If he puts
his cloak on awkwardly he will he thought a quiz, which is no element
of success in society. Everybody knows that Cicero adopted the cause
of Pompey in preference to that of Caesar-because he concluded, from
the unintellectual manner in which the future dictator wore his cloak,
that he never could turn out to be a great man. Caesar improved as
he grew older, when nothing fidgeted him more than any person’s dis
turbing the peace of his sinus (Suet. 82, and see the note of Pitiscus) ;
and, like the Egyptian ladies’ curls, the ruling passion was strong in
his death, for he arranged his cloak as his last will and deed. Cato
and Virgil were laughed at for their awkward togas; no Englishman
can pass for a great man in Spain, unless his Spanish valet thinks so
when he is cloaked.
The better classes of Spaniards wear the better classes of cloth. The
lower continue to cover their aboriginal sheepskin with the aboriginal
cloth. The fine wools of Spain—an ancient Merino sold in Strabo’s.
116 xxrv. srxmsn CLOTH. Sect. I.
time for a talent (iii. 213)—produced a corresponding article, insomuch
that these Hispanoe coccime were the presents which the extravagant
Chloe gave her lover (Mart. iv. 27). The poor were contented then,
as now, with a thick double cloth, the “ duplex parmus” of poverty
and patience (Hor. 1 Ep. xvii. 25), and it was always made from the
brown undyed wool; and there are always several black sheep in every
Spanish flock, as in all their cortes and juntas. Their undyed wools
formed the exact Lacernoe Bwticae (Martial, xiv. 133), and the best are
still made at Grazalema. The cloth, from the brown colour, is called
“ pwiio pardo.” This is the mixed red rusty tint for which Spain was
renowned—-“ ferrugine clarus Ilwerzi ,-” among the Goths the colour was
simply called “ Spanish,” just as our word drab, incorrectly used as a
colour, was originally taken from the French drap, cloth, which hap
pened to be undyed. Drab is not more the livery of our footmen and
Quakers, than “ brown ” is of Spain, whether man or mountain-gente
or Sierra Morena. The. Manchegans especially wear nothing but
jackets and breeches of this stufi” and colour, and well may their king
call his royal seat “ el pardo.” Their metaphors are tinctured with it.
'1‘hey call themselves the “ browns,” just as we call the Africans the
blacks, or modern Minervas the blues : thus they will say of a shrewd
peasant,-Yorkshire—“ Mas sabe con su grammatica parda que no el
escribano ;” he knows more with his brown grammar than the attorney.
The pario pardo is very thick, not only to last longer, but because the
cloak is the shield and buckler of quarrelsorne people, who wrap it
round the left arm. The assassins of Caesar did the same, when they
rushed with their bloody daggers through frightened Rome (App. B. U.
ii. 503). Caesar himself, when in danger at the battle of Lerida, did
the same thing (Bell. Oiv. i. 67). The Spaniards in the streets, the
moment the sharp click of the opened knife is heard, or their adversary
stoops to pick up a stone, whisk their cloaks round their left arms with
marvellous and most classical rapidity. Petronius Arbiter (c. 30) de
scribes them to the life—“ Intorto circum brachium pallio composui ad
prmliandum grarlum." There is no end to Spanish proverbs on the
cloak. They wear it in summer because it keeps out heat ; in winter
because it keeps out cold. For sol que haga, ne dejes ta capa en casa-—
the common trick upon a traveller is to steal his cloak. Del Armlaluz
guarola tu capuz. A cloak is equivalent to independence, olebajo mi
manta, veo y canto, I laugh in my sleeve; and, even if torn and tat
tered, it preserves its virtue like that of San Martin ; olebajo de una ca;/a
rota, hay bum bebz'dor—there is many a good drinker under a bundle
of rags.
The Spaniards as a people are remarkably well dressed; the lower
orders retain their peculiar and picturesque costume; the better classes
imitate the dress of an English gentleman, and come nearer to our ideas
of that character than do most other foreigners. Their sedate lofty port
gives that repose and quiet which is wanting to our mercurial neigh
bours. The Spaniard is proud of himself, not vain of his coat; he is
cleanly in his person and consistent in his apparel ; there is less of the
“ diamond pins in dirty shirts,” as Walter Scott said of some conti
nental exquisites. Not that the genus dandy, the Pollo, does not exist
in Spain, but he is an exotic when clad in a coat. The real dandy is
Spain. XXIV. SPANISH LOVE or DRESS. 117
the “ majo,” in his half-Moorish jacket. The elegant, in a long-tailed
“fraje,” is a bad copy of a bad imitation—-a London cockney, filtered
through a Boulevard badaud. These harmless animals, these exquisite
vegetables, are called Zechuginos, which signifies both a sucking pig and
a small lettuce. The Andalucian dandies were in the war called 1
aquetes, because they used to import the last and correct thing from
England by the packct~boat. Such are the changes, the ups and
downs, of coats and countries. Now the Spaniards look to us for
models, while our ancestors thought nothing came up
“ To the refined traveller from Spain,
A man in all the world‘s new fashions planted!”

The variety of costumes which appear on the Spanish public ala


medas renders the scene far gayer than that of our dull uniform walks;
the loss of the parti-coloured monks will be long felt to the artist.
The gentlemen in their capas mingle with the ladies in their momtillas.
The white-kilted Valencian contrasts with the velveteen glittering An
dalucian ; the sable-clad priest with the soldier ; the peasant with the
muleteer : all meet on perfect equality, as in church, and all conduct
themselves with equal decorum, good breeding, and propriety. Few
Spaniards ever walk arm-in-arm, and still less do a Spanish lady and
gentleman—scarcely even those Whom the holy church has made one.
There is no denial to which all classes and sexes of Spaniards will not
cheerfully submit in order to preserve a respectable external appear
ance. This formed one of the most marked characteristics of the 1be
rians, who, in order to display magnificence on their backs, pinched
their bellies. The ancient Deipnosophists (Athen. ii. 6; Strabo, iii.
232), who preferred lining their ribs with good capons, rather than
their cloaks with ermine, wondered at the shifts and starvation endured
by poor gentlemen in order to strut about in rich clothes, and forms one
of the leading subjects of wit in all their picaresque novels: “ silks
and satins put out the kitchen fire,” says poor Richard. Spaniards,
even the wealthy, only really dress when they go out, and when they
come home return to a dishabille which amounts to dowdiness. Those
who are less afliuent carefully put by their out-of-door costume, which
consequently, as in the East, lasts for many years, and forms one
reason, among many others, why mere fashions change so little: an
other reason why all Spaniards in public are so well dressed is, that,
unless they can appear as they think they ought, they do not go out at
all. In the far-spread poverty many families remain at home during
the whole day, thus retiring and presenting the smallest mark for evil
fortune to peek at. They scarcely stir out for weeks and months;
adversity produces a keener impatience of dishonour than was felt in
better days, a more morbid susceptibility, an increased anxiety to
withdraw from those places and that society where a former equality
can no longer be maintained. The recluses steal out at early dawn to
the missa de madrugada, the daybreak mass, which is expressly cele
brated for the consolation of all who must labour for their bread, all
who get up early and lie down late, and that palest and leaiiest form of
poverty, which is ready to work but findeth none to employ. When
the sad congregation have ofiered up their petition for relief, they
118 xxv. nmrs on connuer. Sect. I.
return to cheerless homes, to brood in concealment over their fallen
fortunes. At dusky nightfall they again creep, bat-like, out to breathe
the air of heaven, and meditate on new schemes for hiding the morrow’s
distress.

XXV.—HIu'rs on CONDUC'1‘—DRESS——CREED—-VISITING—MODES or
Anonrzss, &c.
In conclusion and recapitulation, a few hints may be useful to the
stranger in Spain as to conduct. The observance of a few rules in a
country where “ manners maketh man ” will render the traveller’s
path one of peace and pleasantness. First and foremost, never forget
that the Spaniard is of a very high caste, and a gentleman by innate
aristocracy; proud as Lucifer and combustible as his matches, he is
punctilious and touchy on the point of honour; make therefore the
first advances, or at least meet him a little more than half way ; treat
him, be his class what it may, as a Caballero, a gentleman, and an old
and well-born Christian one, Cristiano viejo y rancio, and therefore as
your equal. When his self-esteem and personal sensitiveness are thus
once conciliated, he is quick to return the compliment, and to pay
every deference to the judicious stranger by whom he is put in his
proper place ; all attempt to bully and browbeat is loss of time, as this
stiff-necked, obstinate people may be turned by the straw of courtesy,
but are not to be driven by a. rod of iron, still less if wielded by a
foreigner, to despise whom is the essense of nationality or Espaitolismo.
It need scarcely be said, in a land so imbued with Orientalisms, that
the greatest respect is to be paid to the fair sex for its own sake, what
ever be woman’s age, condition, or appearance—nor will love‘s labour be
lost. On landing at Calais, the sooner Mayfair is wiped out of the tablets
of memory the better, nor can any one, once in Spain, too constantly
remember to forget England. How few there, or indeed any where on
the Continent, sympathise with our wants and habits, or understand our
love of truth and cold water; our simple manly tastes; our contempt
for outward show compared to real comfort; our love of exercise,
adventure, and alternate quiet, and of all that can only be learnt at our
public schools. Your foreigner has no Winchester or Eton.
Civil words and keeping out of miscl1ief’s way are everywhere the
best defence. Never grudge wearing out a hat or two by touching it or
taking it off ; this is hoisting the signal of truce, peace, and good will ;
the sensitive Spaniard stilfens when hats are not off, and bristles up like
-a porcupine against the suspicion of a desaire. Be especially polite to
oflicials, from the odious custom-house upwards; it is no use kicking
against the powers that be; if you ruffle them they can worry you,
by a relentless doing their duty: these nuisances are better palliated
by honey than vinegar; and many of the detentions and difiiculties of
our unwise travellers are provoked by uncourteons demeanor, and
growlings in a tongue as unknown to the natives as the Englishman
was to Portia—“ He understands not me, nor I him.” Dismiss the
nonsense of robbers from your head, avoiding, however, all indiscreet
exhibition of tempting baits, or chattering about your plans and
movements. By common preparation mere footpads are baffled: to
attempt resistance against an organised band is sheer folly: do not
Spain. xxv. nmrs on cosrumn. " 119
mix yourself with Spanish politics or civil wars — leave them to
exterminate each other to their liking, like Kilkenny cats. Avoid
logomachies, or trying to convince the natives against their will; it is .
arguing against a north-east wind, and a sheer loss of time, too; for,
in a fine, indolent climate, where there is little to do——no liberty of
press or circulating libraries—the otiose twaddlers spin Castilian non
sense by the yard. Mind your own business, and avoid things that do
not concern you, taking especial care not to intermeddle.
In the large towns the costume of an English gentleman is the best ;
avoid all semi-bandit, fancy-ball extravagances in dress ; hoist, indeed,
British colours there as everywhere. Thin cashmere or cubica is far
preferable to cloth, which is intolerable in the hot weather. Pay daily
visits to Figaro, and carefully eschew the Brutus beards, and generally,
everything which might lead the bulk of Spaniards to do you the
grievous injury of mistaking your native country. A capa or cloak
used to be absolutely essential, and is so out of Madrid, paletots not
withstanding: and how much in appearance and in health have those
Spaniards lost, who, like the Turks, ape the externals of foreign
civilization; how skimpy and pigmy and common-place they look
stripped of their ample folds: let your cloak be of plain blue colour,
faced with black velvet. Remember to get it made in Spain, or it will
not be cut full enough to be able to be worn as the natives do: take
particular care that it has a cape, dengue, esclavina, unless you wish to
be an object of universal attention and ridicule; and mind to let your
tailor give you a few lessons how to put it on like a Spaniard, and to
show you the different modes of mufiling up the face, a precaution
necessary in the Castiles, where the cold airs, if inhaled, bring on
sudden and dangerous pulmonia. This artificial respirator keeps out
both the assassin breath of cold, and the salitrose dust. No English
made capa can be properly embozada, that is, have its right fold thrown
over the mouth and left shoulder, descending neatly half-way down
the back. Our cloaks are much too scanty, no tienen bastante vuelo.
In the conduct of cloaks, remember, when you meet any one, being
yourself embozado or mufiied up, to remove the folds before you address
him, as not to do so is a great incivility : again, when strangers con
tinue to speak to you thus cloaked, and as it were disguised, be on your
g uard.
Take great care, when actually travelling, to get the passport
refrendado y corriente in time, and to secure long beforehand places in
the public conveyance. Carry the least possible luggage you can,
never forgetting that none is so heavy and useless in Spain as precon
ceived prejudices and conventional foregone conclusions, although of
genuine London or Paris manufacture. When you arrive at the place
of your destination, if you wish to do or see anything out of the
common way, call on the jefe politico, or comandante de armas, or chief
authority, to state frankly your object, and request his permission.
For travelling, especially on riding tours and in all out-of-the-way
districts, adopt the national costume of the road; to wit, the peaked
hat, Sombrero gacho, calaiies, the jacket of fur, the Zamawa, or the
one of cloth, the Marselles; the grand object is to pass incog. in the
crowd, or if noticed, to be taken for a native. You will thus avoid
120 xxv. nnvrs ox CHURCH MATTERS. Sect. I.
being the observed of all observers, and a thousand other petty annoy
ances which destroy privacy and ruffle temper. You may possibly
thus escape the beggars, which are the plague of Spain, and have a
knack of finding out a stranger, and of worrying and bleeding him
as effectually as the mosquitos. The regular form of uncharitable
rejection is as follows :—Perdone V. (Usted) por Dias, Hermann ?—
My brother, will you excuse me, for God’s sake? If this request be
gravely said, the mendicant gives up hope of coppers. Any other
answer except this specific one, only encourages importunity, as the
beggars either do not believe in the reality of the refusal, or see at
once that you are not a Spaniard, and therefore never leave off, until in
despair you give them hush-money to silence their whine, thus bribing
them to relieve you from the pleasure of their company.
Ladies will do well to adopt the national and most becoming mom
tilla, although in large towns the hideous bonnet is creeping in. They
must also remember that females are not admitted into churches except
in veils; black also used to be the correct colour for dress. Spanish
women generally seat themselves on the pavement when at prayers;
it is against all ecclesiastical propriety for a lady and gentleman, even
man and wife, to walk about arm in arm in a church. Spaniards, on
passing the high altar, always bow; beware of talking during mass,
when the ringing of a little bell indicates the elevation of the Host, and
the actual presence of the incarnate Deity. It is usual totake off hats
and kneel when the consecrated wafer is carried by in the streets; and
those Protestants who object, should get out of the way, and not offend the
weaker brethren by a rude contempt of their most impressive ceremonial.
Protestants should observe some reserve in questions of creed,
and never play tricks with the faith or the eye; con el qio y la fe,
nunca me burlare. There is no sort of religious toleration in Spain,
where their belief is called la Fe, and is thought to be the faith, and
the only true one. You may smile, as Spaniards do, at a corpulent
canon, and criticise what he practises, but take care to respect what he
preaches. You will often be asked if you are a Christian, meaning a
Roman Catholic; the best answer is, Cristiano, st‘, Romano Oatolico,
no. Distributors of Protestant tracts will labour in vain, and find that
to try to convert a Spaniard is but waste of time. The influence of
the Voltaire school with the propagandism of revolution and atheism,
has sapped much, both of the loyalty and religion, of the old
Castilian ; but however the cause of the Vatican may be injured, that
of Protestantism is little advanced: for there is no via media, no Bible
in Spain ; Deism and infidelity are the only alternatives, and they are
on the increase. The English are thought to have no faith at all,—to
believe neither in the Pope or Mahomet, but in gold and cotton alone ;
nor is this to be wondered at in Spain, where they have no ostensible
religion; no churches or churchyards; no Sundays or service, except
as a rare chance at a seaport in some consul’s parlour. Being rich,
however, and strong, they escape the contumely poured out in Spain on
poor and weak heretics, and their cash is respected as eminently catholic.
Conform, as nearly as you can, to the hours and habits of the natives,
get up early, which is usual throughout Spain ; dine or rest in the middle
of the day, for when everybody is either at table or the siesta, it is no use
Spain. xxv. nmrs on connucr. 121
to be running about sight-seeing when you are the only person awake.
On all occasions pay with both hands; most locks in Spain are to be
picked with a silver key, and almost every difliculty is smoothed by a
properly administered bribe, and how small an additional per centage on
the general expenditure of a tour through Spain is added by such trifling
outlays ! Never therefore, cross the Pyrenees to wage a guerrilla warfare
~ ' about shillings and half-crowns. N.B. Have always plenty of small sil
‘Q? ver coins, for which great is the amount of peace, good will, and having
'. J your own way, to be purchased in Spain,where baclcshish, as in the East, is
’ Z» the universal infallible “ open sesamé” and most unanswerable argument.
' ‘ A Spanish proverb judiciously introduced always gives pleasure, nor
need you ever fear offering your cigar case, petaca, to any Spaniard,
still less if your tobacco be of the legitimate Havana; for next to
pesetas, rank cigars, as popular instruments of waxing in the favour of
lberian man, and making him your obedient servant.
When on a riding journey, attend to the provend; take a mosquitero
or musquito net, and some solution of ammomla, the best antidote to
their stings; avoid all resistance to robbers when overmatched; keep
your plans and movements secret; never rub your eyes except with
your elbows, los ojos con los codos, but use hot water to them frequently,
or a lotion of calomel and rose-water; never exercise them in prying
about barracks, arsenals, and citadels, and still less in sketching any
thing connected with military and national defences, which are after all
generally but beggarly shows of empty boxes.
Letters of Introduction are desirable. In cities, where a lengthened
stay is contemplated, their utility is obvious. They may be procured
and taken on tours and excursions, but need not always be presented.
Of service in cases of difficulties, they involve otherwise much loss of
precious time in visits and in formal intercourse with strangers, whom
one never saw before and may never meet again; and for your life avoid
being carried off from the posada to a hospitable native’s house, if
freedom and taking “ ease in mine own inn ” have any charms.
In choice of lodgings, especially in winter, secure upper floors which
have a southern aspect. The sun is the fire-place of Spain, and where
his vivifying rays enter, the doctor goes out; and, dear reader, if you
value your life, avoid the sangrados of Spain, who wield the shears of
the fatal sisters. Fly also from the lrrasero, the pan of heated charcoal,
the parent of headache and asphixia; trust rather to additional clothing
than to charcoal, especially to flannel ; keep your feet warm and the head
cool, by avoiding exposure to midday sun and midnight bottle : above all
things, carry not the gastronomics of the cold north into the hot south.
Live as the natives do, consuming little meat and less wine; sleep the
midday siesta as they do, and avoid rash exposure to the delicious cool
night breezes. Sleep high, avoiding the ground floor, as the poisonous
Malarias of fine climates creep on earth, and more so by night when they
are condensed, than by day; throw physic to the dogs, avoiding con
stipation and trusting to diet and quiet; a blue or a rhubarb dinner pill
generally will suffice. Cod liver oil may as well be taken out by
consumptive travellers, as it is dear, indiiferent, and rare in Spain.
Next to the Spanish bandit and doctors, with whom your purse or
life are in danger, avoid investments in Spanish insecurities. Nothing
Spain.—I. (I
\
122 xxv. VISITING FORMS. Sect. I.
a “ shop-keeper nation ” justly dislikes more than a fraudulent bank
rupt or a stock exchange repudiator : it is safer to buy our Three per
Cent Reduced at 100, than Spanish Five per Cents. at 35.
When you have letters of introduction to any Spaniards, both ladies
and gentlemen should be vefiy particular in being well dressed on the
first visit of etiquette: blac is the correct colour of ceremon . Call
yourself with your credentials. Ladies should come in a carfiage, as
venido en cocke is a mark of respect. If the parties called upon be out,
leave your credentials and card, writing on the corner of the latter E. P.,
which means en persona. When you ring at the door, probably an
unseen person will exclaim, “ Quien es ?” “Who’s there?” The
correct countersign is, “ Gente de paz,” “ Persons of peace.” As the
first visit is always formal, observe how you are treated, and practise
the same behaviour exactly when the call is returned. You will be
conducted to the best room, the sala de estrado, and then led up to the
sofa, and placed on the right hand. Very great care will be paid, or in
our time used to be paid, to your hat—type of grandeeship—which a
well-bred Spaniard seizes and seats on a chair as if it were a person : be
careful to pay this compliment always to your visiting friend’s beaver.
\Vhen you get up to take leave, if of alady, you should say, “ A los pies
ole _V. (usted), Se1'1.ora,” “ My lady, I place myself at your feet;” to
which she will reply, “ Beso 6 V. la mane, Caballero,” “ I kiss your
' hand, Sir Knight:” “ Vaya V. con Dios, que V. lo pase bien,” “May
you depart with God, and continue well ;” to which you must reply,
“ Queole V. can Dios y la. V1.'rgen,” “ May you remain with God and the
Virgin.” Ladies seldom rise in Spain to receive male visitors; they
welcome female ones with kisses both at coming and going. A gentleman
must beware how he offers to shake a Spanish lady’s hand, as it is never
done, except when the hand is offered for better or worse ; it disarranges
her mantilla ; nor should he give her his arm when out walking. On
leaving a Spaniard’s house, observe if he tbiis addresses you, “ Esta casa
estd may Zr la disposicfon de V. cuando guste f<worecerZa.,” “ This house is
entirely at your disposal, whenever you please to favour it.” Once thus
invited, you become a friend of the family, uno de 'n0s0t1‘08, de Zafwmilia.
If the compliment be omitted, it is clear that the owner never wishes to
see you again, and is equivalent to an affront. Vi/hen a lady makes a
visit, a well-bred host hands her down stairs to the door of her carriage,
taking her by the hand ; but properly no pressure is admissible, although
such things have occurred. Remember always to pay a visit of cere
mony to your male and female friends on their birthdays, or el dia de
su santo, and to attend to your costume and put on your best black : on
New Year’s day bring some small gift with you, as an estreiia. If,
when you call, are admitted, and a Spanish lady happens to be alone,
you should not shut the door, as according to the laws of all social pro
priety it must be left open, or at least ajar. In walking with a Spaniard,
if you wish to show him respect, take care to let him be inside of the
two, tu comes exterior: the same nicety of relative position should be
observed in seating him on a sofa or in a carriage. A well-bred man
always when he meets a lady makes way for her, passing outside;
although the strict rule in street-walking, which, from their narrowness
and the nice point of honour of touchy passengers, has been well defined,
Spain. xxv. roams or couarnsr. 123
is that whoever has the wall on his or her right hand is entitled to
kee it.
021 passing soldiers on duty, remember that the challenge of a Spanish
sentry is “ Quien vice ?” The answer is “ Espafia.” Then follows
“ Que gente ?” The answer is “ Paisano.” The sooner and clearer
strangers answer the better, as silence rouses suspicion; and in Spain a
shot often precedes any explanation.
VVhen you meet your Spanish friends, stop, uncloa.k, uncover, and
attend carefully to the whole process of greetings in the market-place.
These things are not done there in our curt and off-hand How are
you ? way. You must inquire after the gentleman’s -own health, that of
his wife (coma esté mi Seirora la esposa ole V.), his children, et cetera,
and then you will be thought to be a hombre tom formal y cumplido
como nosotros, that is, as well-bred as a Spaniard. If when walking
with a Spaniard you pass your own house, do not fail to ask him whether
he will not step in and untire himself a little, “ No quiere V. entrar en
esta su casa, y descansarse un ratito ?” You beg him to come into his,
not your house, for thus you offer it to him.
This offering obtains throughout. If a Spaniard admire anything
belonging to another, his friend instantly places it at his disposal, esté
may ci la disposicion ale V. The proper reply is a bow, and some sort
of speech like this: Gracias, estri may bien empleado, or Gracias, no
puede mejorarse de duerlo. Thanks, it is already in excellent hands;
it cannot better its master by any change. In like manner, and espe
cially when outside cities, if any Spaniards pass by when you are lunch
ing, picnicking, or eating, never fail to invite them to share your meal,
by saying, Gusten ustedes comer? will your graces be pleased to dine P
'.l‘o omit this invitation is a flagrant breach of the laws of hospitality;
nor is it always a mere compliment on their part, for every class of
Spaniard is flattered if you will partake of their fare. However, it is safer
to decline with the set speech, Muchas gracias, buenpro/uecho le haga 6
ustedes. Never at all events, in this or on other occasions, omit these
titular compliments. Phrases and forms of address are exponents of
national character, and how superb is the pomp and circumstance of
these swelling semi-Orientals; here every beggar addresses a brother
mendicant as Sailor, Don, and Caballero, as a lord or knight. As all
are peers, all are “ Vuestra Merced,” “ Your Grace,” which, when not
expressed in words, is understood and implied by the very grammar, as
the mode of addressing in the third person, instead of in our curt second
“ you,” has reference to an implied title. In towns there is scarcely
any dinner society, and luckily; nor is such an invitation the usual
compliment paid to a. stranger, as with us. Spaniard s, however, although
_vi.€_ _
they seldom bid a foreigner, will accept his bidding. It is necessary,
however, to “press them greatly ;” for the correct national custom is to
decline. Remember also to apply a gentle violence to your guest, to
induce him to eat, and if you are dining with him, let your stomach
stretch a point; for unless you over-eat yourself, he will fancy that
you do not like his fare. He will assuredly heap up your mess most
profusely, for, as in the East, where dinners are scarce, quantity is the
delicate mark of attention. It was in our time by no means unusual
for strangers, after eating ices or taking coffee at a public café, to find,
when they went to pay, that the bill had already been discgharged by
G
124 ' xxv. Moors or ADDRESS. Sect I.
some unknown Spaniard. Accordingly, if you see friends of yours thus
refreshing themselves, pretty ladies for instance with whom you wish
to stand well, you may privately tell the waiter that you will be
answerable for their account. It is very easy afterwards, when you
meet with your fair friends, to let them infer who was their unknown‘
benefactor. It was sometimes rather dangerous to accompany an ex
travagant Andaluza out shopping, (1 las tiendas, as a well-bred man of
the old Spanish school was bound never to allow her to pay for anything.
This custom, however, has got somewhat obsolete since the French
invasion, good money and manners having become considerably scarcer
in consequence of that visitation.
All Spaniards, however, are still prodigal to each other in cheap
names and titles of honour; thus even beggars address each other as
Seiior y Caballero, Lord and Knight. The most coveted style is Excel
lencia, your Excellency, or, as it is pronounced, Vziesencia, and it only
belongs to grandees and men in highest oifice. The next is Vuestra
Seitoria, your Lordship, of which the abbreviated form is Usia; this
belongs to titulos ole Castilla, to men who are titled, but not grandees.
It is, however, very seldom used, except by the lower classes, who,
when they want to toady an Englishman, will often say, Por viola del
demonio mas sabe Usia que nosotros-—-by the devil’s life, your Lordship
knows more than we do ; which, if a traveller has this Handbook, is '
very likely to be the fact, asthe natives generally know nothing. The
common form of You is Usted ; vuestra merced, your grace. It is
generally written simply V., or in older books Vmd- If you do not
know a Spaniard’s Christian name, it is well-bred to insert the de, the
German Von. Thus Seiior ole Mufioz is the appellation of a gentleman;
Senor Mufioz that of a nobody. When the Christian name is used
with the title Don (Dominus, Lord), this Don becomes exactly equi
valent to our knightly Sir, and never must be prefixed to the patro~
nymic by itself. Thus you must say Don Hernando Mufioz, and not
Don Mufioz, which sounds as ridiculous and ignorant to Spanish ears
as Sir Peel does to ours.
Spaniards, when intimate, generally call each other by their Christian
names, and a stranger may live among them and be known to all the
town as “ Don Ricardo,” without half a dozen persons in it being aware
of what his patronymic is. The custom of tutear—the endearing
tutoyer, unusual in England except among quakers, is very prevalent
among familiar friends, and is habitual among grandees, who consider
each other as relatives, primes, cousins.
The forms of letter-writing differ also from ours. The correct place
of dating from should be de esta su casa, from this your house, wherever
it is; you must not say from this my house, as you mean to place it at
the disposition of your correspondent; the formal Sir is Mug Seiior
mio ; My dear Sir, is Mug Seiim" mio y de todo mi aprecio; My dear
Friend, is Mi apreciable amigo: a step more in intimacy is querido
amigo and querido Don Juan. All letters conclude after something in
this fashion—que<l0mdo en el interin S. S. S. [su seguro servidor]
Q. S. M. B. [que su mano besa]. This represents our “ your most
obedient and humble servant ;” a more friendly form is “ Manda Vmd.
con toda franqueza d ese S. S. S. y amigo af"W- Q. S. M. B.” When
a lady is in the case, P [pies] is substituted for M, as the gentleman
Spain. xxv. MODES or ADDRESS, ETC. 125
kisses her feet. Ladies sign su sermldora y amiga; clergyrnen, su S. S.
y capellan ,' military men seldom omit their rank. Letters are gene
rally directed thus :—
‘ Al Sefior,
Don Fulano Apodo -_,
B. L. M.
S. S.
R. F.
Most Spaniards append ‘to their signature a Ru-brica, which is a. sort
of intricate flourish, like a Runic knot or an Oriental sign-manual.
The sovereign often only rubricates, as Don Quixote did in the matter
of the jackasses : then his majesty makes his mark, and does not sign
his name.
The traveller is advised at least to visit and observe the objects
pointed out in the following pages, and never to be deterred by any
Spaniard’s opinion that they are “ not worth seeing.” He should not,
however, neglect looking at what the natives consider to be worth a
foreigner’s attention. As a sight-seeing rule in towns, make out a list
of the lions you wish to see, and let your lacquey de place arrange the
order of the course, according to localities, proper hours, and getting pro
per permissions. As a general habit ascend towers in towns to under
stand topography; visit the Plazas and chief markets to notice local fishes,
fowls, fruits, and c0sturnes—-these are busy sites and scenes in this
idle, unbusiness-like land ; for as Spaniards live from hand to mouth,
everybody goes there every day to buy their daily bread, &c., and
when nightfall comes the royal larder is as empty as that of the poorest
venta--and then, as elsewhere, be more careful of keeping your good
temper than sixpences: never measure Spanish things» by an English _.? _. *_ ~

standard, nor seek for motes in bright eyes, nor say that all is a
wilderness from Burgos to Bailen. Scout all imaginary dismals, dangers,
and difiiculties, which become as nothing when manfully met, and
especially when on the road and in ventas. View Spain and the Spaniard
en couleur ole rose, and it will go hard if some of that agreeable tint be
not reflected on such a judicious observer, for, like a mirror, he returns
your smile or frown, your courtesy or contumely ; nor is it of any use
going to Rome if you quarrel with the Pope. Strain a point or two
therefore, to “ make things pleasant.” Little, indeed, shortfof fulsome
flattery, willfully satisfy the cormorant cravings of Spanish self-love
and praise appetite; nay, facts and truths, when told, and still more,
when printed, by a foreigner, are set down as sheer lies, libels, or ab
surdities—merztz'ras y disperates ; and are attributed to the ignorance and
jealousy of the rest of mankind, all conspired to denigrate “ Spain, the
first and foremost of nations.” Remember, also, that “ to boast of
their strength is the national weakness ;” and the Spaniards, in their
decrepitude, talk and swagger as if Charles V. still wielded their sceptre,
and as if their country—blotted from the map of Europe—were the
terror, the envy,and admiration of the whole world : whatever, therefore,
we may think and know to the contrary, it is generally the most pru
dent and polite to smile and pass silently on, like Milton, con volto
schiolto e pensieri stretti. Con qué, buen viaje!
—- " Si quid novlsti rectius lstls
Candidus imperti, si non —his utere mecum.'
( 126 ) Sect. II.

SECTION II.

ANDALUCIA.
3;.e_

CONTENTS.-—INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION.

Kingdom of Andalucia ; its History and Geography; Character of the People;


Language and Country ; Skeleton Tours.
PAGE PAGE
ROUTE 1.—ENGLAND TO cmiz . 130 ROUTE7.—-SA‘N'LUCABTOPOB.TUG-AL 165
Cape St. Vincent; Cadiz; Bay of Cadiz; Niebla; shooting; Coto del Rey.
Isla de Leon.
SEVILLE . . . . . .' . . 166
norms 2.—CADIZ TO GIBRALTAR 142 EX°\1"i°l1WI*-*11i¢-\- - - ~ - - 212
Barrow; Trafalgar; The Straits; T9-rife; noun: 8.—a MINING TOUR . . 216
A‘g°“““si C“"ei“‘ Rio Tinto; Araoena; Llerena; Almaden
nouns 3.—osmz T0 SEVILLE BY ROUTE 9.-sEvILLE TO MADRID . 221
srmm . . . . . . . . 153 Cannons; Ecija; Cordova; Andujar; Bai
San Lucar; the Guadalquivir. len ; Navas de Tolosa; La Mancha; Val
depefias; Ocafia; A1-arquez.
noun: 4.—CA'DIZ T0 snvrnus by 155 ROUTE 10.—VA_LDEPE§AS‘T0 ommn
LAND . . . . . .
R1-mL.........246
Xerez; wines; Utrera; Alcahi de Guadairu.
ROUTE 11.—SEVILLE TO BADAJOZ 2/L8
noun: 5.—xn1mz T0 SEVILLE . 161 Zafm
ROU'1‘E6.—-SANLUCARTOPORTUG-AL 162 some 12.———SEVILLE To BADAJOZ 249
Moguer; Lepe; Normans in Spain. Albuera.

-Q;-i

ANDALUCIA.
THE kingdom or province of Andalusia, in facility of access and objects of
interest, must take precedence over all others in Spain. It is the Tarshish of
the Bible, the “uttermost parts of the earth,” to which Jonah wished to flee.
This “ultima terree” was called Tartessus in the uncertain geography of the
ancients, who were purposely kept mystified by the jealous Phoenician merchant
princes, who had no notions of free trade. This vague general name, Tarshish,
like our Indies, was applied sometimes to a town, to a river, to a locality ; but
when the Romans, after the fall of Carthage, obtained an undisputed possession
of the Peninsula, the S. of Spain was called Bsetica, from the river Baetis, the
Guadalquivir, which intersects its fairest portions. At the Gothic invasion this
province, and part of Barbary, was overrun by the Vandals, whence some assert
that both sides of the straits were called by the Moors Vandalucia, or Bel¢id
al-Andalosh, the territory of the Vandal; but in the word Andalosh, the land
of the West (Hesperia), a sounder etymology may be found. Here, at all
1
..
I Ii‘: i-"2. I '4\‘1.

Andalusia. " ‘ -V rnovmomr. cnanacrna. ' " 2- ~- ‘ 127

events, at the fall of the Gothic rule, as in a congenial soil, the Oriental took’
once more the deepest root, and left the noblest traces of power, taste, and
intelligence, which centuries of apathy and neglect have not entirely efi'aoed—
here he made his last desperate struggle.
The Moorish divisions into Los Cuatro Reinos, the “Four Kingdoms,”
viz. Seville, Cordova, Jaen, and Granada, still designate territorial divisions,
which occupy the S. extremity of Spain; they are defended from the cold N.
table-lands by the barrier mountains of the Sierra Mbrena/—a corruption of
the Montes Mwrianos of the Romans, and not referring to the tawny-brown
. colour of its summer hortus siccus garb. The four kingdoms contain about
8283 square l., composed of mountain and valley ; the grand productive locality
is the basin of the Guadalquivir, which flows under the Sierra Morena. To the
S.E. rise the mountains of Ronda and Granada, which sweep down to the sea.
As their summits are covered with eternal snow, while the sugar-cane ripens at
their bases, the botanical range is inexhaustible: these sierras also are absolutely
marble and metal-pregnant. The cities are of the highest order in Spain, in re
spect to the fine arts and objects of general interest, while Gibraltar is a portion
of England herself. Amlalucia is admirably suited to our invalids; herewinter,
in our catch-cold acceptation of the term, is unknown. The genial climate
forms, indeed, one of the multitudinous boasts of the natives, who pride them
selves on this “ happy accident ” thus lavished on them by nature, as if the
bright skies were a making and merit of their own. Justly enough did the
‘ ancients place their Elysian fields amid these golden orange groves; these were
alike the seats of “ the blessed, the happy, and long-lived” of Anacreon, as the
homes of the rich and powerful of Holy Writ. These favoured regions, the
sweetest morsel of the Peninsula, have always been the prize and pre of the
strong man, no less than the theme of poets; and the Andalucians, om the
rcmotest periods of history, have been more celebrated for social and intellectual
qualities than for the practical and industrial. They are considered by their
countrymen to be the Gascons, the boasters and braggarts of Spain; and cer
tainly, from the time of Livy (xxxiv. 17) to the present, they are the most
“imbelle.s,” unwarlike, and umnilitary. It is in peace and its arts that these
gay, good-humoured, light-hearted children of a genial atmosphere excel; thus
their authors revived literature. when the Augustan age died at Rome, as
during the darkest periods of European barbarism, Oordova was the Athens
of the west, the seat of arts and science. Again, when the sun of" Raphael set
in Italy, painting here arose in a new form in the Velazquez, Murillo, and
Cano school of Seville, the finest of the Peninsula.
The Oriental imagination of the Andalucians colours everything up to their
bright sun. Their exaggeration, pondemcion, or giving weight to nothings,
converts their molehills into mountains ; all their geese are swans ; invincible at '
the game of brag, their credulity is commensurate, and they end in even believ
ing their own lies. Everything with them is either in the superlative or diminu
tive. Nowhere will the stranger hear more frequently those talismanic words
which mark the national ignoramus character—No se sabe, no se puede, con
forms, the ‘_‘ I dO!t11’1t kpéaw ;" “ I can: go it ;fl’;’ “That depends ” tllie Mafizzng,
{$22.2 'Z?'ZiZ‘§;r0c§miZ;Ti§’§°5”,?eZ¢s"Y%hZL“§Z§i‘§ mi ‘3 GZ3k€Z5w§,»?
I ' ,

is the “Salem Allah” of the Moors. Here remain the Bakalum or Veremos,
“We will see about it -” the Pek-éyi or mug bier» “Very we ;” and the In
shallah, si Dioa quiere: the “ If the Lord will ;’,’ the Ojala, or wishing that
God would do their work for them, the Moslem’s Im:o-Allah, the old appeal
to Hercules. In a word, here are to be found the besetting sins of the
Oriental; his indifference, procrastination, tempered by a religious resignation
128 run MAJO. Sect. II.

to Providence. The natives are superstitious and great worshippers of the


Virgin. Their province is her chosen land, La iierra de la Santisima, and prac
ticallg the female worship of Astarte still exists in the universal absolute Mari
olatry of the masses, however differently the Roman Catholic religion may be
understood theoretically by the esoteric and enlightened. Seville was the
head~quarters of the dispute on the Immaculate Conception, by which Spain was
convulsed. The Andalucians are also remarkable for a reliance on supernatural
aid, and in all circumstances of difficulty call upon their tutelar patrons, with
which every town, church, and parish is provided. Yet, if proverbs are to be
trusted, little moral benefit has been the result of their religious tendencies. Al
Andaluz cata la Cruz (catar is the old Spanish for mirm-)——“ Observe how the
semi-Moor Andalucian makes his cross.” Del Andaluz guarda iu capo y
capuz; keep a look-out after your cloak and other chattels. In no province
have smugglers and robbers (convertible terms) been longer the weed of the soil.
In compensation, however, nowhere in Spain is el trato, or friendly and social
intercourse, more agreeable than in this pleasure-loving, work-abhorring
province. The native is the gracioso of the Peninsula, a term given in the
playbills to the cleverest comic actor. Both the gracia, wit, and elegance, and
the sal Andaluza _are proverbial. This salt, it is true, cannot be precisely called
Attic, having a. tendency to gitanesque and tauromachian slang, but it is almost
the national language of the smuggler, bandit, bull;/ighter, dancer, and Jlajo,
and who has not heard of these worthies of Bmtica ?—tl1e fame of Contra
banclista, Ladron, Tore-ro, Bailarin, and Majo, has long scaled the Pyrenees,
while in the Peninsula itself, such persons and pursuits are the rage and dear
delight of the young and daring, of all indeed who aspire to be sporting cha
racters. Andalucia the head-quarters of the “ fancy,” or aficion, is the cradle
of the most eminent professors, who in the other provinces become stars,
patterns, models, and the envy and admiration of their applauding countrymen.
The provincial dress, extremely picturesque, is that of Figaro in our theatres ;
and whatever the merits of tailors and milliners, Nature has lent her hand in
the good work : the male is east in her happiest mould, tall, well-grown, strong,
and sinewy ; the female, worthy of her mate, often presents a form of matchless
symmetry, to which is added a peculiar and most fascinating air and action.
The Majo is the dandy of Spain. The etymology of this word is the Arabic
.1/lajar, brilliancy, splendour, jauntiness in walk, qualities which are exactly
expressed in the costume and bearing of the character. He glitters in vclvets,
filigree buttons, tags, and tassels; his dress is as gay as his sun; external ap
pearance is indeed all and everything with him. This love of show, boato, is
by some derived from the Arabic “ shouting ,~ ” as his favourite epithet, bizarro,
“ distinguished,” is from the Arabic bessard, “ elegance of form.” The word
majo again, means an out-and-out swell, somewhat of the “ tiger,” mug
fan/'a1'0n; fanfaronade in word and thing is also Moorish, as fanfar and
hinchar both signify to “distend,” and are applied in the Arabic and in the
Spanish to las no/rices, the inflation of the barb’s nostrils, and, in a secondary
meaning, to preteneion, puffed out pretention. The Majo, especially if crude,
or boisterous and raw, is fond of practical jokes; his outbreaks and “larks”
are still termed in Spanish by their Arabic names, jarana, jaleo, i. e. khala-a,
“ waggishness.”
The lively and sparkling semi-Moro Andalucian is the antithesis of the grave
and decorous old Gotho-Castilian, who looks down upon him as an amusing
but undignified personage. He smiles at his harlequin costume and tricks as he
does at his peculiar dialect, and with reason, as nowhere is the Spanish language
more corrupted in words and pronunciation; in fact, it is scarcely intelligible
to a true Toledan. The ceceo, or pronouncing the c before certain vowels as an
Andalucia. A THREE MONTHS’ TOUR. 129

s, and the not marking the th clearly—for example, placer (placer) for plather
—is no less ofl'ensive to a fine grammatical ear than the habit of clipping the
Queen’s Spanish. The Castilian enunciates every letter and syllable, while the
Andalucian seldom sounds the d between two vowels; lo come, he eats it, and
says, comio, querio, ganao, for comido, querido, gamzdo ; no vale mi, no hay mi,
for no vale mzda, no hay mwla, and often confounds the double Z with the y,
saying gallamgos for gag/angos.
The fittest towns for summer residence are Granada and Ronda; Seville
and Malaga suit invalids during the winter, or Gibraltar, where the creature
_ comforts and good medical advice of Old England abound. The spring and
autumn are the best periods for a mere tour in Andalucia ; the summers, except
in the mountain districts, are intensely hot, while the rains in winter render
locomotion in the interior almost impracticable. The towns on the coast are
easily visited, as constant inter-communication between Cadiz and Malaga is
kept up by steamers, which touch at Gibraltar and Algeciras. The roads in
general are infamous—mere mule tracks, owing nothing to art except the tu.rn
pike toll; while canals are wanting, alike for trade or irrigation, and the rivers
are ceasing to be navigable from neglect. There is much talk of the rail, as soon
as the struggle who is to have the greatest share of plunder in the concessions
and schemes, is settled by the “powers that be.”
" The river G-uadalquivir is provided with steamers to Seville; but with the
exception of the road from Cadiz to Madrid, and that from Malaga to Granada,
there are no decent public carriages. The primitive Bedouin conveyance, the
horse, prevails, and is much to be preferred to the galeras, or carriers’ waggons,
which drag through miry ruts, or over stony tracks made by wild goats ; into
them no man who values time or his bones will venture. In spite of a fertile soil
and beneficent climate, almost half Andalucia is abandoned to a state of nature.
The soil is covered with lentisks, Liquorice and Palmitos, the indigenous weeds,
and other aromatic underwood, and is strewed with remains of Moorish ruins.
The land, once a paradise, seems cursed by man’s ravage and neglect. Here
those two things of Spain, the dehesas y despoblados, will be fully understood
by the traveller as he rides through lands once cultivated, now returned to
waste, and over districts once teeming with life, but now depopulated,andwho will
then and there learn completely to decline the verb “rough it ” in all its tenses.

A THREE Mourns’ TOUR.


This may be effected by a combination of Steam, Riding, and Coaching.
April. Gibraltar, S. April. Cordovs, C. May. Lanjaron, R. June. Loja, C.
Turifa, R. Anrlujar, C. Berja, R. Antequera, R.
Cadiz, R. Jaen, R, or June. Motril, R. Ronda, R.
Xerez, C. May. Bailen, C. Velez Malaga, R. Gibraltar, R.
San Luau‘, C. Jaen, C. Alhama, R
Seville, s. Granada, 0- Malasa. R
Those going to Madrid may ride from Ronda to Cordova by Osuna. Those
going to Estrema/dura may ride from Ronda to Seville, by Moron.
Mmnnuoeiosr-enotoorosn Tova.
Seville Cordova, R. Cabo de Gate . . . . . . . .Ma1-blcs.
Villa Nneva del Rio, R... .C0al. Bailen, C. V Adm, R. . . . . . . . _. . . . . .Lead.
Rio Tinto, R. . . . . . . . . .C0pper. Linares, R . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Lead. Berja» R- - - - - - - - ~ - -L@1'-(l
Almaden de la Plats, R... .Silv. Baeza, R . . . . . . . . . . . . .Lead. Granada, R- . . . . . . . . .M11l‘bles.
Guadalcanal, R. . . . . . . .Silver. Segura, R. . . . . . . . . . . .F0rests. Malaga, C.
Almaden, R. . . . . ..Quicksilver. Baza, R. Mai-bella, R. . . . . . . . .Iron.
Excursion to Log-rosan, R. Purchena, R. . . . . . . . .Mai-hles. Gibraltar. B
Phosphate of Lime. Macael, R. . . . . . . . . .Ma1-bles.
G3
130 ROUTE l.——SOUTHAMP’l‘0N TO camz-sr. VINCENT. Sect. II.

of St. Vincent, is so called from one of


Roorn 1.—SOU'I.‘HAMPTON ro Csmz. the earliest Spanish saints, Vincentius,
a native of Zaragoza, who was put to
The better plan is to proceed direct death by Dacian, at Valencia, in 304.
to Cadiz, where the change of climate, The body, long watched over by crows,
scenery, men, and manners effected by was removed to this site at the Moorish
a six days’ voyage is indeed remarkable. invasion, miraculously guarded by these
Quitting the British Channel, we soon birds ; and hence the convent built over
enter the “sleepless Bay of Biscay,” the remains was called by the infidels
where the stormy petrel is at home, and Kemlmta-l-gorab, the church of the
where the gigantic swell of the Atlantic crow. According to their geographers,
is first checked by Spain’s iron-bound a crow was always placed on the roof,
coast, the mountain breakwater of Eu announcing the arrival of strangers,
rope. Here The Ocean will be seen in cawing once for each; and the point
all its vast majesty and solitude : grand to this day is termed by the natives
i_n the tempest-lashed storm, grand in El Monte de los Ouervos. About 114:7
the calm, when spread out as a mirror ; Alonso I. removed the holy body to
and never more impressive than at Portugal, two of the crows acting as
night, when the stars of heaven, free pilots, just as Alexander the Great was
from earth-born mists, sparkle like dia guided over the desert to the temple
monds over those “who go down to of Jupiter Ammon. The Spanish crows
the sea in ships and behold the works are blazoned on the arms of the city of
of the Lord, and his wonders in the Lisbon. These birds continued to breed
deep." The land has disappeared, and in the cathedral, and had regular rents
man feels alike his weakness and his assigned for their support. Dr. Geddes
strength; a thin plank separates him (Tracts, iii. 106) saw many birds there
from another world; yet he has laid “ descended from the original breed,
his hand upon the billow, and mastered living witnesses of the miracle, but no
the ocean; he has made it the highway longer pilots.” For the legend consult
of commerce, and the binding link of Prudentius, Perist., v. 5; Morales, Coro
nations. nica, x. 341 ; Esp. Sagr. 179, 231.
The average passage of the steamers This promontory, always in fact a
from Southampton to Cadiz, stoppages “Holy Head,” a sort of Samothrace,
in Gallicia and Portugal included, is was the Kowsov, Cuneus, of the an
about seven days, and the first land cients; here existed a circular druid
made is the N.W. coast of Spain, whose ical temple, in which the Iberians be
range of mountains, a continuation of lieved that the gods assembled at night
the Pyrenean vertcbraa, forms, as we (Strabo, 202). Hence the Romans,
have said, the breakwater of Europe availing themselves of the hereditary
against the gigantic swell of the At Beligio Loci, called the mountain Mons
lantic. For La Corufia and Vigo see Sacer, a name still preserved in the
Index. Omitting Portugal, as foreign neighbouring hamlet Sagres, founded
to this Handbook, the voyage from in 1416 by Prince Henry of Portugal,
Lisbon to Cadiz averages between 30 who here pursued those studies which
and 35 hours. When wind and weather led to the discovery of the circumnavi
permit, the cape of St. Vincent is gation of Africa. Sagres was once
approached sufiiciently near to see the considered the most western point of
convent perched on the beetling cliff, Europe, and to which, as the first meri
and to hear its matin or vesper bell, dian, all longitudes were referred.
and see a fine rotary light, eclipsed The waters which bathe these shores
every two minutes. The Montchique have witnessed three British victories.
range of mountains rises nobly behind Here, Jan. 16, 1780, Rodney attacked
in the background. the Spanish fleet under Langara, cap
El Oabo de San Vicente, the Cape tured 5 and destroyed 2 men-of-war ;
Andalusia. ROUTE 1 .—CADIZ—-—INNS-—GUITARS, ETC. 131
had the action taken place in the Resgua/roles, and other custom-house
day, or had the weather been even oflicers, who are to be conciliated by
moderate, “ none,” as he said in patience, courtesy, a cigar.
his dispatch, “ would have escaped.” Cmrz. Inns.—Hotel Blanca, No.
Here, Feb. 14, 1797, Jervis, or rather 60, on the Alameda, with a fine sea
Nelson (although not mentioned in view; very good. Blanco himself is
Jervis’ dispatch), with 15 small ships, trustworthy and intelligent; English
defeated 27 huge Spaniards, “rattling Hotel—Ximenes, No. 164, Alameda;
through the battle as if it had been a Hotel dc Eu/ropa ,- Oriente, in French
sport,” taking 4 prizes, and saving and Spanish style ; Ouatro Na
Lisbon from Grodoy, the tool of France. ciones, Plaza de Mina. An excellent
Here, again, July 3, 1836, Napier, with casa de piqailos in the Calle de San
6 small ships, beat 10 Portuguese men Alqja/rid/ro, kept by Mrs. Stanley, is
of-war, and placed Don Pedro on the weH fitted for private families and
throne of Portugal. ladies. Good lodgings and fare may
Rounding the cape and steering S.E., be had at Juan Mmloz, 117, C. del
we enter the bay of Cadiz; the moun Baluarte. The fans, mantillas of Cadiz
tain range of Ronda, landmarks to (Spanish mantillas imported into Eng
ships, are seen soaring on high, while land pay a duty of 15 per cent.), rank
the low maritime strip ofAndalucia lies next to those of Valencia and Barce
unperceived. For all this coast, con lona ; the gloves are excellent, especially
sult the Derroteros, by Vicente Tofino, the white kid, six reals the pair. Ladies‘
2 vols. 4to., Mad. 1787-9. Soon fair shoes are very cheap and good, as the
Cadiz rises from the dark blue sea like feet at Cadiz are not among the ugliest
a line of ivory palaces; the steamers on earth. The town is famous for sweet
generally remain here about 3 h., be meats, ordulces, of which Spaniards, and
fore proceeding to Gibraltar. What especially the women, as in the East, eat
a change from Southampton! What vast quantities, to the detriment of their
local colour, what dazzling blues and stomachs and complexions. The Calle
whites, as we near this capital of Ancha is the Regent Street of Cadiz.
southern seas, so young, so gay, bright There is a good Casino or club on
and clear as Aphrodite when she rose the Plaza San Antonio, into which
from the waves here! And how strange strangers are easily introduced by their
the people of this new clime, with black banker.
eyes and ivory teeth, bronzed cheeks, The Cadiz guitars, made by Juan
shaggy breasts, and sashes red! The Pajez and his son Josef, rank with the
landing, when the sea is rough, is often violins and tenors of Straduarius and
inconvenient, and the sanitary precau Amati: the best have a backboard of
tions tedious. It is carrying a joke dark wood, called Polo Santa. The
some lengths, when the yellow cada floor-mattings are excellent: the finest
verous Spanish health oflicers inspect are woven of a flat reed or junco (the
and suspect the ruddy-faced Britons, qfflzsus of Linnaeus), which grows near
who hang over the packet gangway, Lepe and Elche; these and the coarser
bursting from a plethora. of beef and Esteras used for winter are designed in
good condition ; but fear of the plague fanciful Oriental patterns, and can be
is the bugbear of the South, and made to any design for 6 to 8 reals
Spaniards are no more to be hurried the cam .- they last long, and are very
than our Court of Chancery. Extor cool, clean, and pleasant. Visit one of
tionate boatmen, who sit like cormo the manufactories to see the operatives
rants on the coast, crowd round the squatted down, and working exactly as
vessel to land passengers; the proper the Egyptians did 3000 years ago.
charge is a peseta a person, and the Books to consult.—For the antiqui
word tarifa is their bugbear. There is ties, Granclezas, by Jn. Ba. Suarez de
the usual trouble with the Aduaneros, Salazar, 4to., Cadiz, 1610; Emporio
132 nourr. l.—HISTORY or CADIZ. Sect. II.

de el Orbe, Geronimo do la Conception, imperial names to the city, “ Julia Au


folio, Amsterdam, 1690; Cadiz .Pheni gusta G-aditana ;” and a fondness for fine
cia, Ms. de Mondejar, 3 vols. 4to., Mad. epithets is still a characteristic of its
1805; Historia de Cadiz, 1598, Orosco, townsfolk. Gades became enormously
4=t0., 1845; Manuel de la Provincia; rich by engrossing the salt-fish mo
Luis de Iga/rtuburu, 4to., Cadiz, 1847. nopoly of Rome: its merchants were
A couple of days will suflice for see princes. Balbus rebuilt it with marble,
ing this city, whose glories belong rather setting an example even to Augustus.
to the past than the present. This town was the great lie and lion
Cadiz, long called Cales by the Eng of antiquity; nothing was too absurd
lish, although the oldest town in Eu for the classical handbooks. It was
rope, looks one of the newest and their Venice, or Paris; the centre of
cleanest. The rust of antiquity is com sin and sensual civilization; the pur
pletely whitewashed over, thanks to an veyor of gastronomy, ballets, and other
Irishman, the Governor O’Reilly, who, matters for which the Spaniard of old,
about 1785, introduced an English sys “Dedecoru/m pretiosus emptor,” paid
tem. It is well built, paved, lighted, par excellence (Hor. Od. 6, 32).
and so tidy, thanks to the sewer of the Italy imported from it those improbae
eircumanibient sea, that the natives Gaditame, Whose lascivious dances were
compare Cadiz to a taza de plata, a of Oriental origin, and still exist in the
silver dish (Arabic?-‘: tast). It rises on Romalis ofthe Andalucian gipsies. The
a rocky peninsula of concreted shells prosperity of G-ades fell with that of
(shaped like a ham), some 10 to 50 feet Rome, to both of which the foundation
above the sea, which girdles it around, of Constantinople dealt the first blow.
a narrow isthmus alone connecting the Then came the Goths, who destroyed
main land; and in fact Gaddir, in the city; and when Alonso el Sabio—
Punic, meant an enclosed place (Fest. the learned not wise-—captui-ed Kadis
Av. Or. Mar. 273). It was founded from the Moors, Sept. 14-, 1262, its ex
by the Phoenicians 347 years before istence was almost doubted by the in
Rome, and 1100 before Christ (Arist. fallible Urban IV. The discovery of
‘ De Mir.’ 134; Vel. Pat. i. 2. 6). The the New World revived the prosperity
Punic name was corrupted by the of a place which alone can exist by
Greeks, who caught at sound, not commerce, and since the loss of the
sense, into I"¢3nea, quasi 7n: Bugs, a Transatlantic colonies ruin has been
neck of land, whence the Roman Grades. the order of the day. Hence the con
Gaddir was the end of the ancient stant struggle during the war to send
world, the “ ladder of the outer sea,” out troops, and expend on their re
the mart of the tin of England, and covery the means furnished by Eng
the amber of the Baltic. The Phos land for the defence of the Peninsula.
nicians, jealous of their monopoly, per The population of Cadiz in the war
mitted no stranger to pass beyond it, time, which exceeded 100,000, has now
and self has ever since been the policy dwindled down to some 53,000. Made
of Cadiz. Gaddi/r proved false to the a free warehousing port in 1829, a
Phcenicians when Carthage became fillip was given, but the privilege was
powerful; and, again, when Rome abolished in 1832, since which it is
rose in the ascendant, deserted Car rapidly decaying, as it cannot compete
thage in her turn, some Gaditanian with Gibraltar and Malaga, while even
refugees volunteering the treachery; the sherry trade is passing to the
(Livy, xxviii. 23). Caesar, whose first Puerto and San Lucar. It has a joint
oflice was a quaastorship in Spain, saw, stock bank and issues its own notes.
i Cadiz was sacked June 21, 1596, by
like the Duke (Disp. Feb. 27, 1810), the
importance of this key of Andalucia Lord Essex, when Elizabeth repaid,
(Bell, C., ii. 17). He strengthened it with interest, the visit of the Spanish
with works, and when Dictator gave invincible armada. The expedition was
Andalusia. ROUTE 1.-smcns or camz. 133
so secretly planned, that none on board, ' saved the town. He soon after died in
save the chiefs, knew its destination. England, broken-heartedat the injustice
An oflicer named Wm. Morgan, who, and ingratitude of the Cadiz Junta.
having lived in Spain, knew the dila Thus Spain generally rewards those who
pidated state of her defences, advised serve her best. Previously to his timely
instant attack; and so the garrison was arrival, the junta, “ reposing on its own
found wanting in every thing at the greatness,” had taken no precautions,
critical moment, and was instantly nay, had resisted the English engineers
taken. Antonio de Zufiiga, the corre in their proposed defences, and had
gidor, having been the first .to run and insulted us by unworthy suspicions,
fall to his prayers, when every one else - refusi.ng to admit a British garrison,
followed‘ their leader’s example. The thus marring the Duke’s admirable plan
booty of the conquerors was enormous; of defending Andalucia. They despised
13 ships of war, and 40 huge South him when they were safe: “ Sed ubi
American galleons were destroyed, periculum advenit invidia atque su
whereby an almost universal bank perbia postfuere ” (Sallust, 3.0. 24).
ruptcy ensued, and the first blow was Then they put away their envy and
dealt to falling Spain, and from which pride, and clamoured for aid in their
she never recovered. The best account miserable incapacity for self—defence
is by Dr. Marbeck, physician to LordEs with bated breath and whispering hum
sex, and an eye-witness, Hakluyt, i. 607. bleness; and General Spencer was sent
Cadiz was again attacked by the from Gibraltar with 2000 men, the
English in 1625; the command was Duke simply remarking on withdraw
given to Lord Wimbleton, a grandson ing our troops after they had done the
of the great Burleigh. This was a work, “ it may be depended upon, that
Walcheren expedition, ill-planned by if Cadiz should ever again be in danger,
the incompetent Buckingham, and mis ou/r aid will be called for” (Disp. Nov.
managed by the general, who, like the 11, 1813). And never let this true key
late Lord Chatham, proved that genius of Spanish policy be forgotten. That
is not hereditary ; (see Journal and semi-Moorish government, so long as
Relation, &c., London, 4to., 1626). the horizon at home and abroad is fair,
Another English expedition failed in will bully and bluster, will slight and
August, 1702. This, says Burnet, ill-use England, its best friend; but
“ was ill-projected and worse executed.” whenever “ the little cloud” arises,
The attack was foolishly delayed, and whether from beyond the Pyrenees or
the Spaniards had time to recover their the Atlantic, it will hurry to kiss the
alarm, and organize resistance ; for hand it stung, and will petition for
when the English fleet arrived in the help in craven consciousness of impo
-bay, Cadiz was garrisoned by only 300 tence. The real strength of Spain con
men, and must have been taken, as the sists in its weakness, and in the for
Duke of Ormond told Burnet. bearance and endurance of other and
Cadiz in the recent war narrowly real Powers.
escaped, and from similar reasons. The first step the Cortes took was to
When the rout of Ocafia gave Anda meditate a law to prevent any foreign
lucia to Soult, he turned aside to Se soldiers (meaning English) from ever
ville to play the “conquering hero.” being admitted into a Spanish fortress;
So Alburquerque, by taking a short cut, and this afi‘-er Cadiz, Cartagena, Tarifa,
had time to reach the Isla, and make a Alicante, Ceuta, &c., had been solely
show of defence, which scared Victor. defended and saved by their assistance.
Had he pushed on, the city must have Now-a-days, according to Spanish his
fallen ; for everything was then, as now, 1 tories, Cadiz is the “ bastion where the
most orientally out of order, the forti finest troops in the world were baflled
fications being almost dismantled. The by Spanish valour alone ;” for the Mel
bold front presented by Alburquerque i lados and Co. do not even mention the
134 ROUTE l.—THE CLIMATE OF CADIZ. Sect. II

English. So it has always been and‘ tion in so fine a climate may be traced
will be : Spain, at the critical moment, to the early, general, and excessive in
loves to fold her arms and allow others dulgence. The wretched foundlings in
to drag her wheels out of the mire; she the hospital La Cmza die como clzinvhes;
accepts their aid uncourteously, and as this mortality, it is said—a modern
if she was thereby doing her allies an massacre of the innocents —averages 75
honour; she borrows their gold and uses per cent. The lower orders have bor
their iron ; and when she is delivered, rowed from foreigners many vices not
“repudiates ;” her notion of re-payment common in the inland towns of tem
is by ingratitude; she draws not even on perate and decent Spain. Cadiz, as a
the “ exchequer ofthe poor” for thanks ; residence, is but a sea-prison ; the
nay, she filches from her benefactors water is bad, and the climate during
their good name, deckin herself in their the Solano wind (its sirocco), detest
plumes. The melnoryo Frenchinjuries able; then the mercury in the baro
is less hateful than that of English bene meter rises six or seven degrees, and the
fits, which wounds her pride, as evincing nativ are driven almost mad, espe
her comparative inferiority. cially the women; the searching blast
Cadiz, being the “ end of the world,” ‘ finds out everything that is wrong in
has always been made the last asylum the nervous constitution. The use of
of gasconading governments, since they the knife is so common during this
can run no further, because stopped by wind, that courts of justice make al
the sea: hither, afier prating about lowances for the irritant efl‘ects, as
Numantia, the Junta fled in 1810, set arising from electrical causes, the pass
ting the example to their imitators in ing over heated deserts. Cadiz used to
1823. Then the Cortes of Madrid be much visited by yellow fever—el vo
continued to chatter, and write imper mito negro—which was imported from
tinent notes to the allied sovereigns, the Havana. The invalid will find the
until Angouléme crossed the Bidasoa; soft and moist air somewhat relaxing;
when they all forthwith took to their but the city is well ventilated by fresh.
heels, fled to Cadiz, and next surren breezes, and the sea is an excellent
dered. Thus this city, which so long scavenger.
resisted the mighty Emperor, because There are very few good pictures at
defended by England, when left to its Cadiz. The new Museo contains some
single-handed valour, succumbed with 50 or 60 second-rate paintings, hun
such precipitation that the conquest dreds of books and pictures having
became inglorious even to the puny been left to rot on the floors by the
Bourbon. Yet the city still glories in authorities; among the best, or rather
the epithet “ Heroica,” one in truth the least bad, are, by Zurbaran, the
so common to Spanish cities, that the San Bruno—Eight Monks, figures
French, in 1823, when the mayors came smaller than life, from the Cartuja of
out with their pompous titles and keys Xerez ; two Angels ditt0,and six smaller ;
to surrender them instanter, scarcely the Four Evangelists, San Lorenzo and
could refrain from laughter. the Baptist. There is a Virgen de lw
Cadiz, purely a commercial town, has Faja, a copy after Murillo, by Tobar;
little fine art or learning; les lettres ole a San Agustin, by L. Giordano ; a
change y cont les belles lettres. It is San Miguel and Evil Spirits, and the
scarcely even the jocosa Gades of the Guardian Angel. The pride of the
past ; for the society being mercantile, is Gaditanians is the Last Judgment,
considered by Spaniards as second-rate. which, to use the criticism of Salvator
The women, however, fascinate alike by Rosa on Michael Angelo, shows their
their forms and manners. Cadiz, it islack of that article, as it is a poor pro
duction, by some feeble imitator of'
said, is rather the city of Venus, the
mother of love, than of the chaste Nicholas Poussin. An echo also greatly
Diana ; and the frequency of consump amuses grown up children.
-~

Andalucia. ROUTE 1.—THE CATHEDRALS or camz. 135

Cadiz is a garrison town, the see of dispute with flocks of sea-birds for the
a bishop sutfragan to Seville. It has a sahnonete, the delicious red mullet.
fine new Plaza de Torus, built outside Their long angling-canes and patience
the town by Montes, who half ruined are proverbial—la paciencia de un pes
himself thereby. It has two theatres ; cador de caia.
in the larger, El Principal, operas are Los Oaqmchinos, the suppressed con
performed during the winter, and in vent of San Francisco, were the head
the smaller, el del Balon, Sainetes, quarters of Lord Essex in 1596. Here
faroes, and the national Ba-iles or is the Academia de Nobles Aries, with
dances, which never fail to rouse the a museum, consisting chiefly of rubbish,
most siestose audience. Ascend the . and shabbily managed because of the
Torre de la Vigiu, below lies the old story “no funds.” The building is
smokeless whitened city, with its mim now used as a lunatic asylum. The
dores and azoteas, its look-out towers Plaza. de Mina has been created out of
and flat roofs, from whence the mer the convent garden: then and there
chants formerly signalised the arrival the Dragon-tree, bleeding from the
of their galleons. While Madrid has tomb 'of Geryon, the last of its race,
not one, Cadiz possesses two cathedrals was barbarously cut down, and even
near each other. The old one, La the matchless palm-grove shorn of its
Vieja, was built in 1597, to replace glories. The chapel contains the Mar
that injured during the siege. Its riage of St. Catherine, the last work of
want of dignity induced the city, in Murillo, who in 1682 fell here from the
1720, to commence a new one, La scaffolding, and died in consequence
Nueva ,- but the plans given by Vicente at Seville: the smaller subjects were
Acero were so bad that no one, in spite finished from his drawings by his pupil
of many attempts, was found able to Fro. Meneses Osorio, who did not ven
correct them, so the work was left unfi ture to touch what his master had done
nished in 1769, and the funds, derived in the first lay of colours, or ole p1'i1nera
from a duty on American produce, memo. A San Francisco receiving the
were regularly appropriated by the Stigmata is in Murillo’s best manner.
commissioners to themselves. The Notice also in a chapel opposite a
hull, used as a rope-walk, remained, Concepcion. These pictures were the
like a stranded wreck on a quicksand, gift of Juan Violeto, a Genoese, and a
in which the merchants‘ property was devotee to St. Catherine; but the chief
engulphed, until the interior was com benefactor of the convent was a foreign
pleted byBp. Domingo de Silos Moreno, Jew, one Pierre Isaac, who, to con
chiefly at his own expense, during a ciliate the Inquisition, and save his
time of civil war and church sequestra ducats, took the Virgin into partner
tions. The florid Corinthian is over ship, and gave half his profits to her,
charged with cornices and capitals, and or rather to the convent. Some single
bran-new pictures—daubs. Observe, figures by Zurbaran came from the
however, in a chapel behind the high Cartuja of Xerez.
altar, a fine Concepcion by Murillo. Following the sea-wall and turning
There is a history of this cathedral by to the rt. at the Puerta de la Caleta,
Javier de Urrutia, 1843. in the distance the fort and lighthouse
The searamparts which encircle the of San Sebastian rises about 172 ft.
city, extending more than 4 m. round, above the rocky ledge, which proved
are on this side the most remarkable; the barrier that saved Cadiz from --4'“:
here the rocks rise the highest, and the the sea at the Lisbon earthquake in
battering of the Atlantic is the greatest 1755. Next observe the huge yellow
as the waters gain on the land; their Doric pile, the Uasa de Miseficordia,
maintenance and rebuilding is a con built by Torquato Cayon. This, one
stant source of expense and anxiety. of the best conducted refuges of the
Here idlers, seated on the high wall, poor in Spain, sometimes contains 1000
136 ROUTE 1.-—-ALAMI<.‘DA, THE LADIES or csmz. Sect. II.

inmates, of which 300 to 400 are chil still, however, this is the spot for the
dren. Its great patron was O’Reilly, modern philosopher to study the de
who, in 1785, for a time suppressed scendants of those “ Gaditanm,” who
xnendicity in Cadiz. The court-yards, turned more ancient heads than even
the patios of the interior, are noble. the sun. The “ladies of Cadiz,” the
Here, Jan. 4~, 1813, a ball was given theme of our old ballads, have retained
by the grandees to “ the Duke,” fresh all their former celebrity, and have
from his victory of Salamanca, by cared neither for time nor tide. Ob
which the siege of Cadiz had been serve, particularly in this Alameda,
raised, and Andalucia saved, in spite their walk, about which every one has
of the marplot Cortes. heard so much, and which has been
Passing the artillery barracks and distinguished by a competent female
arsenal, we turn by the baluarte dc judge from the “affected wriggle of
Candelaria to the Ala/meda. This the French women, and the grenadier
charming walk is provided with trees, stride of the English, as a graceful
benches, fountain, and a miserable swimming gait.” The charm is that
statue of Hercules, the founder of it is natural; and, in being the true
Cadiz, and whose efligy, grappling with unsophisticated daughters of Eve and
two lions, the city bears for arms, with nature, the Spanish women have few
the motto “Gadis fundator domina rivals. They carry their heads with
torque.” Every Spanish town has its the free high-bred action of an Arab,
public walk, the cheap pleasure of all from walking alone and not slouching
classes. The term Ala/meda is derived and leaning on gentlemen’s arms, and
from the Ala/mo, or elm-tree. Some daintily from not having to keep step
times the esplanade is called El Salon, with the longer-legged sex. They walk
the saloon, and it is an al-fresco, out with the confidence, the power of
of doors Ridotto. Toma/r el fresco, to balance, and the instantaneous find
take the cool, is the joy of these south ing the centre of gravity, of the cha
ern latitudes. Those who have braved mois. The thing is done without effort,
the dog-days of the Castiles can best esti and is the result of a perfect organ
mate the delight of the sea-breeze which ization: one would swear that they
springs up after the scorching sun has could dance by instinct, and without
sunk beneath the western wave. This being taught. The Andaluza, in her
sun and the tides were the marvels of glance and step, learns, although she
Cadiz in olden times, and descanted does not know it, from the gazelle.
on in the classical handbooks. Philo Her pace, el Piagfar, and her pride
sophers came here on purpose to study may be compared to the Pezso CasteZ
the phenomena. Apollonius suspected lano of an ambling Cordovese barb.
that the waters were sucked in by sub According to Velazquez, the kings of
marine winds; Solinus thought this Spain ought never to be painted, ex
operation was performed by huge sub cept witching the world with noble
marine animals. Artemidorus reported horsemanship, and, certes, their female
that the sun’s disc increased a hundred subjects should never be seen except on
fold, and that it set, like Falstaff in foot, Et vera incessu patuit dea. As few
the Thames, with “ an alacrity of sink people, except at Madrid, can afford
ing, hot in the surge, like a horse-shoe,” to keep a carriage, all classes walk, and
or stridentem gurgite, according to Ju Practice makes
the air and soil perfect;
are alikehence the élite
clean and
" venal. The Spanish Goths imagined
that the sun returned to the E. by of the noblesse adorn the Alameda,
unknown subterraneous passages (San while in London the aristocratic foot
Isid. Or. 15). seldom honours the dirty earth.
The prosaic march of intellect has The Ga-ditana has no idea of not
settled the poetical and marvellous of being admired. She goes out to see,
ancient credulity and admiration; and still more to be seen. Her cos
Andalucia. ROUTE l.—FEMALE WALK AND narss. 137

tume is scrupulously clean and neat; allowed to be painted or engraved;


she reserves all her untidyness for her and -it was contr to court etiquette
husband and sweet domestic privacy. to allude even to the possibility of the
Her “pace,” her aire is her boast 2 not Queens of Spain having legs: they
but what first-rate fastidious judges were a sort of royal at-min, of the bird
consider her gracia to be menos fina of Paradise species.
than that of the more high-bred Sevil Those good old days are passed ; and
lana. Her meneo, however, is consi now the under-garments of the maja
dered by grave antiquarians to be the and baila/rina dancer, are very short
unchanged crissatm-a of Martial. they substitute a make-believe trans:
The Spanish foot, female, which most parent fleco or fringe, after the Oriental
travellers describe at length, is short, fashion (Numb. xv. 38), or the old
and with a high instep; it is plump, Egyptian (Wilk. 81). The Cartha
not to say pinched or contracted. An ginian Limbus was either made of gold
incarceration in over-small and pointed iv. 237).Met.Those 51)
(Ovid, of the maja are en
or painted
shoes, il faut s0u_fr1'/r pour étre belle,
occasionally renders the ankles pufi'y; riched with canutillo, bugles or gold
but, as among the Chinese, the correct filigree. They are the precise na7mn'm-1;
foot-measure is conventional; and he of the Greek ladies, the instita of the
who investigates affairs with line and Roman. This short garment is made
rule will probably discover that these to look ample, it is said, by sundry
Gaditanas will sooner find out the zagalqios or intimos, under-petticoats,
exact length of his foot, than he of and ingenious contrivances and jugoes
theirs. The Spaniards abhor the boufantes, bustles, and so forth; no
French foot, which the rest of man todo es aro. Z0 que reluee.
kind admire—they term it “un pie The foot, although it ought not to
seco,” dry measure. They, like Ariosto, be shown, figures much sin Spanish
prefer “il breve asciutto e ritondello compliment. A los pies de Vmd. is a
pede.” Be that as it may, there can be caballero’s salute to a Seiiora. Beso a
no difference in opinion as to the Vmd. les pies is extremely polite. If a
stockings of open lace embroidery, gentleman wishes to be remembered to
medias caladas. They leave nothing his friend’s wife, he says, Lay me at
to be desired. The Spanish satin shoe her feet.
and white kid glove deserve the most Remember, in walking on this or
serious attention of all our lady readers; any otherlady
Spanish alameda neverand
youriarm, to beware,
offer a
although the former are somewhat too
pointed, and cut too low in the quarter, also, of the honest Englishman’s shake
whereby the pressure is thrown for of a Spanish lady’s hand noli me tan
ward, and the tarsus and meta-tarsus gere. She only gives her hand with her
uncovered, which occasions bunions ; heart; contact conveys an electri1cI:a,1
but vanity can endure even a corn. spark, and is considered shocking. 0
Formerly the Spanish foot female wonder, with these combined attrac
was sedulously concealed; the dresses tions of person and costume, that the
were made very long, after the Oriental “ Ladies of Cadiz” long continued to be
-n3nqn:, Tala/ris fashion; the least ex popular and to exercise that womano
posure was a disgrace; compare Isa. cracy, that Puvuixaxgzrm which Strabo
17; Jer. 22; Ezek. xvi. 25. (iii. 251) was ungallant enough to pam
As among the Germans (Tacitus, Ger. demn in their Iberian mothers. ut
19), so among the Spanish Goths, the Strabo was a bore, and these were the
shortening a lady’s basquiia was the old complaints against the “mantles and
deadliest affront; the catastrophe of whimples ” i. e. lac sagas 3/ ma/ntillas
the Infantes of Lara. turns upon this of the Tyrian women, who, as the
curtailment of Dofia Lambra’s saga. scholar knows (Il. vi. _290), embroi
The feet of the Madonna are never dered the mantilla of Mmerva’s image.
138 noun: l.—THE FISH or clmz.‘ Sect. II.

But Cadiz was the eldest daughter of have them fried simply in oil, and give
Tyre, and her daughters naturally in directions that the trail, la: tripas, be
herited- the Sidonian “ stretching forth left in them, which S anish cooks, the
of necks, wanton eyes, walking and worst in the world, ot erwise take out ;
mmcmg as they go” (Isa. 111.6). Alas! here may be seen other fishes not to
for the sad changes making by the be found in Greenwich kitchens or in
commonplace chapeau! English dictionaries: e. g. the Juvel,
Barring these living objects of un the Savalo, and the Mew, which latter
deniable antiquarian and present in ranks among fish as the sheep does
terest, there is little else to be seen on among animals, en la tierra el ca/rnero,
this Alameda of Cadiz. The principal en la mar el mero. But El dorado,
building, El Carmen, is of the worst the lunated gilt head, so called from its
churriguerirmo : inside was buried golden eyes and tints, if eaten with
Adm. Gravina, who commanded the Tomata sauce, and lubricated with
Spanish fleet, and received his death golden sherry, is a dish fit for a cardinal.
wound at Trafalgar. Continuing to The new prison and unfinished Es
the E. is the large Aduana or Custom cuela de Comercio are cited by natives
house, disproportioned indeed to fail among their lions. The handsome
ing commerce and scanty revenues, street, la Calle Ancha, and in truth
and where everything that is vicious the only broad street, is the lounge of
and anti-commercial in tariffs is wor the city; here are all the best shops;
thily carried out by officials hateful the casas consistoriales may be looked
everywhere to travellers. Here Ferd. at. The chief sqlmre, and really a
VII. was confined in 1823 by the con aqua/re, planted, and provided with
stitutionalists. Thence the artist should seats, is placed under the protection of
pass to the Puerta del Mar, for cos San Antonio, because his statue in
tume, colour, and grouping. Here will 1648 came down from its pedestal to
be seen every variety of fish, and heal some sick. (Peyron, i. 243.)
female from the mantilliad Seiiora to The Cortes of Cadiz sat during the
the brisk Muchacha in her gay paiiuelo. war of independence in San Felipe
The ichthyophile should examine the Neri. Their debates ended Sept. 14,
curious varieties, which also struck 1813: many are printed in 16 vols.,
the naturalists and gourmands of an 4to. Diario ale las Cortes, Cadiz,
tiquity (Strabo, 214). Here, as at 1811-12. This Spanish Hansard is
Gibraltar, the monsters of the deep rare, Ferd. VII. having ordered all the
in form and colour, blubbers, scuttle copies to be burnt by the hangman as
fishes, and marine reptiles, pass de a bonfire on the first birth-day after
scription; ws triplex indeed must have his restoration. Whoever will open
been about the stomach of the man only one volume must admit that the
who first greatly dared to dine on pages are the greatest satire—the Mo
them. The dog-fish, the Pintarojo, niteur excepted—which any set of mis
for instance, is a delicacy of the omni rulers ever published on themselves.
vorous lower classes, who eat every The best speech ever made there was
thing except toads. The fish of the by the Duke (Dec. 30, 1812), after his
storm-vexed Atlantic is superior to usual energetic, straightforward, Eng
that of the languid Mediterranean. lish fashion.
The best here are the San Pedro, or The members were perfectly insen
John Dory, our corruption from the sible to the ludicrous disproportion of
Italian Janitore, so called because it is their inflated phraseology with facts;
the fish which the Porter of Heaven vast in promise, beggarly in perform
caught with the tribute-money in his ance, well might the performers be
mouth; the Salmomtes, the red mul called Vocales, for theirs was vox et
lets (the Sultan al hut, the king of pmterea nihil: an idiot’s tale, full of
fishes of the Moors) are right royal: sound and fury, signifying nothing, be
Andalusia. ROUTE 1.-—EL PUERTO DE SANTA MARIA. 139
ing mere Palabras, palaver, or “ words, Every day confirms the truth of the
words, words ;” “a volley of words” Duke’s remark (Sept. 12, 1812): “I
instead of soldiers; “a fine earcheguer really believe that there is not a man
of words ” instead of cash. The curse in the country who is capable of com
of poor Spain are these jantas or cortex, prehending, much less of conducting,
caricatures ofparliaments, where things any great concern.”
are talked about not done, or if done,
done badly; it is adding insult to injury THE BAY OF OADIZ.
when the forms of free men are made A rail is in contemplation for this
instruments of tyranny. circuit; but in Spain, a land where, as
Now as few things alter in Spain, in the East, time is of no value, and
and none so little as any governing want of funds the chronic complaint,
body of any kind, hear the oracular the natives seldom do to—day what can
Duke, who appears at once to have be put off’ for to-morrow, their beloved
understood the Cortes by the instinct Mariana ; and well did our wise Bacon
of strong sense: “The leading people wish that his tardy death might come
among them have in/ea/riablg deceived from Spain: me venga la muerte des
the lower orders, and instead of mak Espaiia. Even rail matters here move
ing them acquainted with their real like our Court of Chancery; in fact,
situation, and calling upon them to all love to leave something for poste
make the exertions and the sacrifices rity to do, and do not go to work, as
which were necessary evenfor their de they say, con esafuria que par zihi se
fence, they have amused them with idle acostu/mbra, coma si el mundo sefuera
stories of imaginary successes, with acabar ; so mean time take a boat.
visionary plans of offensive operations, The outer bay is rather exposedt
which those who ofl'er them for consi the S.W., but the anchorage in the‘
deration know they have no means of inner portion is excellent. Some dan
executing, and with the hopes of driving gerous rocks arc scattered opposite the
the French out of the Peninsula by town, in the direction of Rota, and
some unlocked;/'or good” (Disp., May ‘are called Las Puercas, the Sows-—
11, 1810). Again, “It is extraordi xmpuisq ; for these porcine appellations
nary that the revolution in Spain are as common in Spanish nomencla
should not have produced one man ture as among the ancients, and tho
with any knowledge of the real situ hog-hack is not a bad simile for many
ation of his country; it really appearsof such rocky formations. Rota lies
as if they were all drunk, thinking andon the opposite (west) side of the bay,.
talking of any objects but Spain : how and is distant about five miles across..
it is to end God knows !” (Disp., Nov. Here the tent wine used for our sacra
1, 1812). This, however, still is and ments is made; the name being nothing.
has long been the hard lot of this ill but the Spanish ti/ntilta, from tinto,
fated country. Spain, says Justin red. The next point is La Puntilla,
(xliv. 2), never, in a long series of ages, and then that defended by the battery
produced one great general except Viri Sa. Catalina.
atus, and he was but a guerrillero, E1. Punnro ma S1‘A- Mann, Port
like the Cid, Mina, or Zumalacarregui. St. Mary, and usually called el Paerta,
The people, indeed, have honest hearts the port (o~Porto), was the Portus Me
and vigorous arms, but, as in the East nesthei (Le Min As-ta, Portus Astae), a
ern fable, a head is wanting to the body. Punic word, which the Greeks, who, as
The many have been sacrificed to the usual, caught at sound, not sense, con
few, and exposed to destitution in peace ' nected with the Athenian Menestheus.
and to misfortune in war by unworthy It lies distant from Cadiz 8 l. by land,
rulers, ever and only intent on their 2 l. by sea.
own selfish interests, to the injury Inns.—Near the landing-place is the
of their fatherland and countrymen. Vista alegre, which to a cheerful look
140 ROUTE 'l .—CADIZ-—THE TROCADERO. Sect. II.

out unites cleanness and sundry English zuela, and narrows as it draws to the
conveniences rare on the continent. inner division; the mouth is defended
Here the Guadalete enters the bay; by the cross-fires of the forts Mata
the bar is dangerous, and much ne gorda and Puntales. At the latter
glected. In the days of sailing-boats, Lord Essex landed in 15§6 and did take
prayers to the blessed souls in purga Cadiz ; which Victor bombarded from
tory and making crosses were chiefly the former and did not take. Now row
resorted to; now small steamers go up the Trocaziero, which divides an
backwards and forwards three times islet from the main land. Fort San
a day; the passage takes from half Luis, once a flourishing place, was
to three-quarters of an hour. The ruined by Victor, an enemy, in 1812,
Puerto is pleasant and well built; and annihilated by Angouléme, an ally,
pop. 18,000. The river is crossed by in 1823. Of his taking the Tr0ca
a suspension bridge: in the Plaza dc dera, the glory of the Restoration,
Torus was given a grand bullfight to even Messieurs Bory de St. Vincent
the Duke, described by Byron, better as and Laborde are ashamed. The French,
apoet, than as a correct torero. The soil led by the ardent and aquatic G-en.
of the environs is rich, and the water Goujon, passed through four and a
so excellent that Cadiz is supplied half feet of water. “Les constitu
with it to the cost of 10,000Z. a-year, tionnels prirent alors la fuite,” so the
while ancient G-ades was supplied assailants, “sans avoir perdu un seul
by an aqueduct, which O’R.eilly would homme,” carried the strong fort, “sans
have restored had he remained in oflice. effusion de sang.” Those who fight and
The Puerto, one of the three great run away, may live to fight another day.
towns of wine export, vies with Xercz Yet Mr. Campbell, when Bacchi plenus
and San Lucar. The principal houses it is to be presumed, apostrophised
are French and English. The vicinit y these truly quick heroes as dead ones:
to Cadiz, the centre of exchange, is “ Brave men, who at the Trocadero fell
favourable to business, while the road Beside your cannon, conquered not, though
to Xerez is convenient for conveying slain.”
down the wines, which are apt to be Matagorda was dismantled by Victor;
staved in the water-carriage of the a few fragments may be seen at very
Guadalete. Among the best houses low water.
may be named Osborne and Dufl' Gor At the head of the Trocadero, and
don, whose Amontillado is matchless, on an inner bay, is Puerto Real,
Mousley, Oldham, Burdon and Gray, founded in 1488 by Isabella. This,
Pico, Mora, Heald, German and Co. despite of its royalty, is a tiresome
The bodegas or wine-stores deserve a poor and fishy place of parallel and
visit, although those of Xerez are on a rectangular streets. It was the head
grander scale. The town is vinous quarters of Marshal Victor, who, by
and uninteresting : the houses resemble way of leaving a parting souvenir, de
those of Cadiz: the best street is the stroyed 90O houses. Here a new basin
Calle La/rga _,- the prettiest ala/meala is for steamers blessed by the Bishop in
la Victoria. Here Ferd. VII. landed, 1846, and waltzed in by the ladies,
Oct. 1, 1823, when delivered from the still excites the wonder of Cadiz.
Constitutionalists by the French, and Opposite is the river or canal Santi or
forthwith proceeded to violate every Sa/ncti Peiri (the Sancto Petro of olden
solemn pledge to friend and foe. Here, chronicles), which divides the Isla from
July 30, 1843, Baldomero Espartero, the main land. On the land-bank is
the Regent Duke, driven out by the one of the chief naval arsenals of Spain,
intrigues of Louis Philippe and Chris La Cwrraca, the station of the O'a/r
tina, concluded his first career on board racas, the ca/rracks, galleons, or heavy
a. British line-of-battle ship. ships of burden: a word derived from
The bay now shelves towards Cabe the low Latin carricare, to load, quasi
Andalucia. nours l.—LA CARRACA ARSENAL. 141

sea-carts. The Normans invaded these from Trafalgar under Mons. Rosilly,
coasts of Spain in huge vessels called surrendered nominalky to the Spaniards,
ka/nikir. This town, with the opposite for Collingwood, by blockading Cadiz,
one of San Carlos, was founded by had rendered escape impossible.
Charles III. to form the Portsmouth The Somti Petri river, the water key
and Woolwich of his kingdom. Pre of La Isla, is deep, and defended at its
viously to the Bourbon accession Spain mouth by a rock-built" castle. This,
obtained her navies, ready equipped, the site of the celebrated temple of
from Flanders, but urged on by France, Hercules, was called by the Moors
and made the tool of the family com “ The district of idols.” Those remains
pact, she soon warred with England; which the sea had spared have chiefly
and now La Carraca, like El Ferrol been used up by the Spaniards as a
and Cartagena, tells the result of quar quarry. Part of the foundations were
relling with her natural friend. These seen in 1755, when the waters retired
are emblems of Spain fallen from her during the earthquake. For the rites
pride of place through Bourbon friend of this pagan convent, see our paper
ship. Every thing speaks of a past in the Quar. Rev. cxxvi. 283. The
magnificence. Apresent silence and de river is crossed by the Puente de
solation contrast with the former bustle Zuazo, so called from the alcaide Juan
of this once-crowded dockyard, where Sanchez de Zuazo, who restored it in
were floated those noble three-deckers, the fifteenth century It is of Roman
Nelson's “old acquaintances.” The foundation, and was constructed by
navy of Spain in 1789 consisted of 76 Balbus to serve both as a bridge and
line-of-battle ships and 52 frigates; now an aqueduct. The water was brought
“the Spanish fleet ye cannot see, because to Cadiz from Tempul, near Xerez, but
it’s not in sight ;” it is nearly reduced both were destroyed in 1262 by the
to that a/rmada, decreed to be built in Moors. The tower was built by Alonso
birthday gazettes of 1853. In truth el Sabio, who had better have restored
non-commercial Spain (Catalonia ex the aqueduct. This bridge was the
cepted, which is not Spain) never was pans asinoru/rn of Victor, as the En
really a naval power. The Arab and glish never suffered him to cross it.
Berber repugnance to the sea, and the Here the Marshal set up his batteries,
confinement of the ship, still marks having invented a new mortar capable
the Spaniard; and now the loss of her of throwing shells even into Cadiz.
colonies has rendered it impossible for The defeat of Marmont by the Duke
Spain to have a navy, which even at Salamanca recoiled on M. Victor
Charles III. in vain attempted to force, -—abiit, excessit, evasit, erupit. Now
although Mons. Gautier was his ship his failure is explained away by the
wright. old story, “inferior numbers.” The
How changed the site and scene allies, according to M. Belmas (i. 138),
from the good old times when Mago amounted to 30,000, of which 8000
here moored his fleet, and Caesar his were English “ men in buckram,”
long galleys ; when Philip anchored the “ Victor ayant a peine 20,000.” For
“twelve apostles,” the treasure-galleons once Napoleon told the truth at St.
taken by Essex; when Drake, in April, Helena when he said, Victor était un
I587, with 30 small ships destroyed béte, sans taiens et sans téte.
more than 100French and Spanish “big From this bridge return by land
braggarts,” singeing, as he said, “the through La Isla de Leon, so called be
King of Spain’s whiskers ;” here were cause granted in 1459 to the Ponce do
collected in after times the 40 sail of Leon family, but resumed again by the
the line prepared to invade and conquer crown in 1484. This island was the
England——St. Vincent and Trafalgar Erythrsea, Aphrodisia, Cotinusa, Tar
settled that; here, in June, 1808, 5 tessus of the uncertain geography of
French ships of the line, runaways the ancients. Here Geryon (faeuv, a
142 norm: 2.—-camz TO GIBRALTAR. Sect. II.

fine old fellow, the Stranger in the He dura, cuts the isthmus, which, suppos
brew) fed those fat kine which Hercules ing it had guns and men, and either
“lifted;" and whose golden fleeces— were in eflicient order, it would defend.
fine wool—tempted the Phwnecian ar Now Cadiz is approached amid heaps
gonauts ; and his descendant the Giron of filth, which replace the pleasant
(Duque de Osuna) is still the great gardens demolished during the war.
Lord of Andalucia; but the breed of To the left of the land-gate, between
cattle is extinct, for Bsetican beef, or the Aguaala and San Jose, is the Eng
rather vaca, cow, is now of the leanest lish burial-groun d, acquired and planted
kine, and the bulls are better for bait by Sir John Brackenbury, father of the
ing than basteing. present consul, for the bodies of poor
San Fernando, the capital of the Isla, i heretics, who formerly were buried in
is a straggling decaying town, but gay the sea-sands beyond high-water mark.
looking with its fantastic lattices and Now there is “ snug lying” here, which
house-tops, and the bright sun which ‘ is a comfort to all Protestants who con
gilds the poverty. Here the Junta first template dying at Cadiz, and are curious
halted in their flight, and spouted about Christian burial.
(Sept. 24, 1810) against the French Cadiz is soon entered by the land
cannon. Salt, the staple, is made in gate, the Puerta de Tierra. The walls
the ralinas and the marshes below, and defences are sadly dilapidated, and
where the conical piles glisten like the ‘ might be taken by a bold boat’s crew.
white ghosts of the British tents, when The grand secret in any warfare against
our red jackets were quartered here. Spanish fleets, forts, or armies, is to at
The salt-pans have all religious names, tack them instantly, as they will “al
like the line-of-battle ships (when there ways be found wanting in everything
were any), the wine—cellars of Xerez, or at the critical moment.”
the mine-shafts of Almaden, e._q. El Cadiz is a good point of departure
dulce nombre de Jesus, &c. In these for ships. Vessels sail regularly for the
marshes breed innumerable small crabs, Havana ; steamers proceed to England
cangrejos, whose fore-claws are tit-bits and Egypt, to Portugal and the Basque
for the Andaluz ichthyophile. These provinces and France ; also to Gib
bar.-as de la Isla are torn oif from raltar, Valencia, and Marseilles. Others
the living animal, who is then turned navigate the Guadalquiver up to Seville,
adrift, that the claws" may grow again while diligences run by land to Xerez
for a new operation; chameleons also and on to Madrid. The days and
abound. At No. 38, just below the hours of departure will be seen pla
Plaza, Riego lodged, and proclaimed carded on every wall and are known at
the “ constitution” in 1820. The every inn.
secret of this patriotism was a dislike
in the ill-supplied semi-Berber army,
to embark in the South American ex
pedition with which Ferdinand hoped ROUTE 2.—CADIZ TO GIBRALTAR, BY
to reinforce the blunderer Morillo. Los Bamnos AND Tamra.
Passing the Torregorda, the busy, Miles.
dusty, crowded, narrow road La Cal Chiclana . . . . . 13
Va. de Vejer . . . . 16 . . 29
zmia is carried along the isthmus to Va. Taibilla . . . . 14 .. 43
Cadiz. Still called el camino de Ercoles, Va. Ojen . . . . . 11 . . 54
it runs where ran the via Heraclea of Los Barrios . . . . 9 .. 63
Gibraltar . . . . . 12 . . 75
the Romans, which led to his temple:
nor is the present road much more The most expeditious mode is by steam,
Spanish, since it was planned in 1785 and the passage through the straits is
by O’Reilly, an Irishman, and executed splendid. The ride by land, for there
by Du Bouriel, a Frenchman. is no carriage road, has been accom
A magnificent outwork, La Qorta plished by commercial messengers in
Andalucia. acorn 2.—-CHICLANA. 143

16 hours. Taking that route, the better city of Sidon, thought by some to be —@-4t|'»um-~-,~1-»i~*r1@».¢_;u¢-
"Q-I
plan is to leave Cadiz in the afternoon, the site of the Phoenician Asidon, but
sleep at Chiclana the first night, and all these tit bits for the antiquarian
the second at Ta/r"§j'a. Those who are “Caviare to the general.” The
divide the journey into two days, sulphur-baths here, especially the Fu
halt first at Vqjer; from hence there ente amarga, are much used in cuta
are two routes, which we give approxi neous and cachetic complaints.
matively in miles—and such miles! The town looks pretty from afar
The first route is the shortest. At the with its white houses, gardens, and
Venta ale Ojen the road branches, a painted railings, but it is ill-paved,
track leads to Algeciras, 10 m. ; it is a worse drained and lighted, and, in
wild and often dangerous ride, espe fact, is not worth visiting, being a
cially at the Trocha pass, which is whitened sepulchre full of decay; and -— -4~—.-»_ . . _ .,
infested with smugglers and charcoal this may be predicated of many of
burners, who occasionally become rate these hill-fort towns, which, glittering
ros and robbers. At allevents, “ attend in the bright sun, and picturesque in
to the provend,” fill the bota with wine, form and situation, appear in the en
and the basket with prog. The most chantment-lending distance to be fairy
interesting route is— residences : all this illusion is dispelled
Miles. on entering into these dens of dirt,
Chiclana . . . . . 13 .. ruin, and poverty: reality, which like
Va. de Vejer . . . . 16 .. 29
Va. Taibilla . . . . 14 .. 43 a shadow follows all too highly-excited
Tarifa . .
Algeciras . .
Gibraltar . ‘ .
. .
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
16
12
9
..
..
..
69
71
80
expectations, darkens the bright dream
of poetical fancy. Yet what would life
be without hope, which still cheers
§
Quitting the Isla at the bridge of man on, undaunted by experience.
Zuazo we reach Ohiclana, on a gentle Again, once for all, it may be said
sandy eminence. Pop. 4000. It is the that generally the correlative of the pic
landin_q,not watering, place of the Cadiz turesque is the uncomfortable, and the
merchants, who, weary of their sea better the food for the painter’s eye
prison, come here to enjoy the terra outside the town, the worse the chance
firma. The air is pure and the baths of bed and board inside.
luxurious. It is, moreover, a sort of Nothing can be more different than
medical Botany bay, to which the Anthe aspect of Spanish villages in fine
dalucian faculty transports those many
or in bad weather; as in the East,
patients whom they cannot cure: in during wintry rains they are the acmcs
compound fractures and chronic dis of mud and misery: let but the sun
orders, they prescribe bathin here,shine out, and all is gilded. His beam
is like the smile which lights up the
ass’s milk, and a broth made o a long
harmless snake, which abounds near habitually sad expression of a Spanish
Barrosa. We have forgotten the ge woman. Fortunately, in the south of 1
neric name of this valuable reptile of Spain, fine weather is the rule, and
Esculapius. The naturalist should not, as among ourselves, the excep
»:
take one alive, and compare him with tion. The blessed sun cheers poverty
the vipers which make such splendid itself, and by its stimulating, exhila
pork in
I ches), Estremadura
or with les vipers:(see Montan
de Poito-u, to rating action on the system of man,
enables him to buffet against the moral
whose broth Mde. de Sévigné attri evils to which countries the most fa
buted her good health. (Let. July voured by climate seem, as if it were
8th, 1685.) From the hill of Santa from compensation,‘ to be more ex
Ana is a good panorama; 3 L. ofl', posed than those where the skies are
sparkling, like a pearl set in gold, on a dull, and the winds bleak and cold.
hill where it cannot be hid, basks Me Medina Sidonia gives the ducal title to
dina Sidonia, Medinatu-Shidunah, the the descendants of Guman el Bueno,
144 noun: 2.—BARI‘.0SA.———TllE e.u"r1.s. Sect. II.

to whom all lands lying between the in front, instantly defied the united
Gaudalete and Guadairo were granted brigades of Rufiin and Laval, com
for his defence of Tarifa. The city manded by Victor in person, and having
was one of the strongest holds of the riddled the head of their columns with
family. Here the fascinating Leonora a. deadly fire, then charged with the
do Guzman, mistress of the chivalrous bayonet in the “ old style z” an hour and
Alonso XL, and mother of Hem'y of a half settled the affair by a “sauve
Trastamara, fled from the vengeance of qui peut.” Victor decamped, while
Alonso’s widow and her son Don La Peiia did not even dare to follow
Pedro. Here again that cruel king, up and finish the flying foe. No single
in 1361, imprisoned and put to death stroke was struck that day by Spanish
his ill-fated wife Blanche of Bourbon, sabre: but assistance from Spain ar
—-the Mary Stuart of Spanish ballads, rives either slowly or never. Socorros
—beautiful, and, like her, of suspected de Espafia tarde 0 NUNCA. This is a
chastity ; this execution cost Pedro his very favourite Spanish proverb; for
life and crown, as it furnished to France the shrewd people revenge themselves
an ostensible reason for invading Spain, by a refran on the culpable want of
and placing the anti-English Henry of means and forethought of their incom
Trastamara on the throne. petent rulers: Gonzalo de Cordova
Leaving Chiclana, the track soon used to compare such help to San Telmo
enters into wild sandy aromatic pine (see Tuy), who, like Castor and Pol
clad, snake-peopled solitudes: to the lux, never appears until the storm is
r. rises
the immortal knoll of Ba/rroscz. over. Blessed is the man, said the
When Soult, in 1811, left Seville to Moorish general, who expects no aid,
relieve Badajoz, an opportunity was for then he will not be disappointed.
offered the Spaniards, by attacking Graham remained master of the
Victor in the flank, of raising the siege field. Then, had La Pena, who had
of Cadiz. The expedition was in an thousands of fresh troops, but moved
evil hour entrusted to Manuel de la one step, Barrosa would indeed have
Peiia, a fool and a coward, but the been contemporaneous with Torres
favoured creature of the Duchess of Vedras, for on that very day Massena
Osuna. The expedition was misman too began his retreat. Victor, when
aged by this incapable from beginning he saw that he was not followed, re
to end. In February, 11,200 Spani covered from his panic, and indited a
ards, 4300 English and Portuguese, bulletin, “how he had beaten back
were landed at the distant Tarifa, 8000 Englishmen.” Now-a-days our
when La Pefia, instead of resting at lively neighbours claim a more com
Conil, brought the English to the plete victory, and, entering into details,
ground after 24e.l1011I‘S of intense toil relate how Graham’s triple line, with
and starvation. Graham, contrary to 3000 men in each,” was culbuté by the
his orders, had injudiciously ceded the French, who were “un contre deux,”
command in chief to the Spaniard, and that “the loss of the eagles was
who, on arriving in the critical mo solely owing to the accidental death of
ment, skulked himself away towards the ensigns.” How very unlucky!
the Santi Petri, ordering Graham to Touching the real truth of this en
descend from the Sierra del Puerco g agement at Barrosa, what says the
the real key, to the Torre Berme;7'a, Duke (Disp., March 25, 1811), to whom
distant nearly a league. The French, Graham had thought it necessary to
who saw the error, made a splen apologise for the rashness of attacking
did rush for this important height: with his handful two entire French
but the gallant Graeme, although left divisions ?—“I congratulate you and
alone in the plain with his feeble, your brave troops on the signal victory
starving band, and scarcely having time which you gained on the 5th; I have
to form his lines, the rear rank fighting no doubt whatever that their success
Andalucia. nouns 2.—TRAFALG AR——THE TUNNIIZS. 145
would have had the efl‘ect of raising The ride from Barrosa to Tarifa
the siege of Cadiz, if the Spanish troops passes over uncultivated, unpeopled
had made any eifort to assist them. wastes. The country remains as it was
The conduut of the Spaniards through left after the discomfiture of the Moor,
out this expedition is precisely the or looks as if man had not yet been -
' same as I have ever observed it to be: created. To the r. is Conil. 3 L. from
they march the troops night and day Chiclana, and 1 L. from Cape Trafalgar.
without provisions or rest, and abusing Pop. 3000. Built by Guzman elBuen0,
everybody who proposes a moment’s it was famous for its tunny fisheries. In
delay to afford either to the fatigued May and June the fish return into the
or famished soldiers; they reach the Atlantic from the Mediterranean. The
enemy in such a state as to be unable almadraba, or catching, a most Arabic
to make any exertion or execute any affair, as the name implies, used to
plan, even if any plan had been formed ; be a season of great festivity. For
they are totally incapable of any move merly 70,000 fish were taken, now
ment, and they standto see their allies scarcely 4000; the Lisbon earthquake
destroyed, and afterwards abuse them of 1755 having thrown up sands on
because they do not continue, unsup the coast, by which the fish are driven
ported, exertions to which human na into deeper water: the “ atun escabe
ture is not equal.” La Pefia, once chazlo,” or pickled tunny, is the “Plei
safe in Cadiz, claimed the victory as xmu, the “Salsamenta,” with which
his! and now the English are either and dancing girls, Gades supplied the
not mentioned at all by Spanish his Roman epicures and amateurs. Ar
torians (lgartuburu, p. 179, Madoz, chestratus, who made a gastronomic
vii. 324), or the ultimate failure of the tour, thought the under fillet to be the
expedition is ascribed to our retreat! incarnation of the immortal gods.
(Maldonado, iii. 29.) La Pei'\a,el delin l\T4ear Oonil much sulphur is found.
cuente honrewlo, was decorated with the The long, low, sandy lines of Tra
star of Carlos III.! and Ferd. VII., falgar (Promontorium Jnnonis, hence
in 1815, created a new order for this forward Nelsonis) now stretch towards
brilliant Spanish victory! l The Cortes Tarifa; the Arabic name, Taraf-al
propounded to Graham a grandeeship, ghar, signifies the promontory of the
as a sop, which he scornfully refused. cave. This cape bore about 8 m. N.E.
The title proposed, Duque del Cierro over those hallowed waters where Nel
del Puerco (Duke of Pig’s—hill), was in son, felix opportnnitate mortis, sealed
truth more euphonious among bacon the empire of the sea with his life
loving Spaniards than ourselves. blood; for things so great can only be
Buonaparte attributed Victor’ s defeat carried through by death: Nelson was
to Sebastiani (Belm. i. 518, 25), who, that glorious concentration of national
influenced by jealousy of his colleague, spirit, which made and will make every
confined himself to advancing to San English sailor do his duty to the end
Rogue, where he remained pillaging. of time.
Barrosa was another of the many T'r'a_fal_qa1'—tanto nomini nullum par
instances of the failures which the eulogium——changed Buonapa.rte’s vi
dis-union of Buonaparte’s generals en sionary invasion of England, into the
tailed on their arms. These rivals real one of Francc ; England left now
never would act cordially together : as with no more enemies on the sea, turned
the Duke observed when enclosing an to the lancl for an arena of victory.
intercepted letter from Marmont to The spirit of the Black Prince and of
Foy, “ This shows how these gentry are Marlborough, of Wolfe and of Aber
going on ; in fact, each marshal is the croxnbie awoke, the sails were furled,
natural enemy of the king (Joscph) and and that handful of infantry landed
of his neighbouring marshal” (Disp., on the most western rocks of the Pen
Nov. 13, 1811). insula which marched in one triumph
Spain.-—I. H
146 ROU rs 2.——'1‘_R.\FALG.»LR——'I‘llE narru-2. Sect. II.
ant course until it planted its red flag Thus it is that the spirits of the great
on the walls of Paris. This doing the and wise continue to live and to act afi/er
old thing in the old style is thus plea them." This indeed is immortality.
santly referred to by M. Foy, i. 197: The S aniards fought well at Tra
“ Bientot cot art nouveau! pour les falgar, t e nadir of their marine, as
Anglais allait lcur devoir nécessaire Lepanto was its zenith: Gravine, their
presque D. l’égal dc la science navale.” gallant noble admiral was wounded and
Nelson, on the memorable Oct. 21, died, refusing to have his arm amputa
1805, commanded 27 small ships of the ted, and telling Dr. Fellowes, that he
line and only four frigates: the latter, was going to join Nelson, the “greatest
his “eyes” were wanting as usual; he man the world has ever produced.”
had prayed for them in vain, from our The French vice-admiral, Dumanoir,
wretched admiralty, as the Duke (lid having kept out of the action, fled at
afierwards. The enemy had 33 sail of the close, “backing his topsails,” says
the lino, many of them three-deckers, Southey, “to fire into the captured
and seven frigates. Nelson, as soon, Spanish ships as he passed,” when
as they ventured out of Cadiz, consi the indignant crews intreated to be al
dered them “his property ;” he “bar lowed to serve against their quondam
gained for 20 at least.” He never re allies. This Dumanoir, with four run
garded disparity of numbers, nor count aways, was caught, Nov. 4, oil‘ Cape
ed an enemy’s fleet except when prizes Finisterre by Sir Richard Strachan,
afier the baltle—synonymous with him when all were taken, his own ship, the
with victory. He, with hope deferred, “ Formidable” being the first to strike.
had long chased them over wide seas, This man, who, Southey thought,
in full cry, every rag set, everysai1burst “ought to have been hanged in the
ing with impatience, and No. 16 sig sight of the remains of the Spanish
nal for “close action” hoisted; and now, fleet,” was acquitted at Toulon, because
when at last he saw them, it was to he had “ manoeuvre’ salon Fimpulsion du
give his “Nelsonic touch" no “drawn DEVOIR et de Fhonneur!” and was
battles now,” but simple—A.nnihilation: made a count in 1814 by Louis XVIII.
Nelson was wounded at a quarter Nelson’s notions of honour, duty and
before one, and died 30 minutes past manmuvring were after a different fa
four. He lived long enough to know shion. His mammwre—a nautical no
that his triumph was complete, and velty indeed—was to break the long
the last sweet sounds his dying ears line of the foe with a short double line;
caught were the guns fired at the flying a manoeuvre which few foreign fleets
foe. He died on board his beloved will try against an English squadron,
“Victory,” and in the arms of its pre whose guns would sink their opponents
siding tutelar, only 47 years old: “ye ,” as they approached singly; however
says Southey, “he cannot be said to according to M. de Montferrier, ‘Dic
have fallen prematurely whose work tionnaire dc la Marine,’ Paris 184-1,
was done, nor ought he to be lamented “C’est a cette science, la 1nan0euvI'e,
who died so full of honours at the que la marine Frangaise doit toutes ses
height of human fame, and if the cha victoires ; en eifet, il n’y a point
riot and the horses of fire had been d‘exemple, oh, it forces égales, une ur
vouchsafed for Ne1son’s translation, he mée Anglaise nous nit battus !”
could scarcely have departed in a Be that as it may, some how
brighter blaze of glory. He has left us or another, this Trafalgar “settled
not, indeed, his mantle of inspiration, Boney” by sea, to use the Duke’s
but a name and example which are at phrase, when he did him that ser
this hour inspiring thousands of the {vice by land; all his paper projects
youth of England; a name which is our ' about “ships, colonies and _commerce,”
pride, and an example, which will con all his fond phrases of “French lakes,”
tmue to be our shield and our strength. were blown to the winds; accordingly,
Andalucia. ROUTE 2.-——FRENCH VERSIONS OF TRAFALGAR. 147
he omitted all allusion to Trafalgar tions are disposed of by Sir Harris Ni
in the French papers, as he after colas in Nelson’s Dispatches, immortal
wards did the Duke’s victories in as those of the Duke, the controversy
Spain. Thus Pompey never allowed is not ended; and the Spaniards have
his reverses in the Peninsula to be pub taken such offence at their allies’ ver
lished (Hirt. B. H. 18). Buonaparte sion of Trafalgar, as given by M. Thiers
received the news of his misfortunes at in his Hiatoire da Consulat, Lib. XXIL,
Vienna, which clouded le soleil d’Aus and especially at the sneer that five
terlitz with an English fog: his fury Spanish men of war then and there fled, i
!!
was unbounded, and he exclaimed, having “ sauvé leur existence beaucoup
“Je saurai bien apprendre aux ami plus que leur honneur ; ” that a grave 1
raux Francais a vaincre” at C’. refutation was put forth at Madrid in
xvr. 197). 1850 by Manuel Marliani, and it is a
Fivemonths afterwards he slightly very pretty quarrel as it stands ; mean
alluded to this accidental disaster, as time both of the beaten parties contend
scribing it, as the Spaniards falsely do that each of their single ships was at
the destruction of their invincible ar tacked by five or six English. The real
mada, not to English tars, but the heroes of the day and their défaite héro
winds: “Les tempétes nous ont fait ique were either Sefiores Ghurraco, Ga
perdre quelgues vaisseaux, apres un liano, &c., or Messieurs Lucas, Magon,
combat imprudemment engagé.” Yet &c., small mention being made of the
Villeneuve had that decided numerical nobody Nelson, a sort of loup-marin, a,
superiority without which, according man, according to M.Thiers, assez borné
to ]3uonaparte’s express orders, an when off his quarter-deck. The French
English fleet was never to be attacked Admiral Villeneuve was said to have
and our sole unsubsidised allies, “les killed himselfin despair at his disgrace,
tempétes,” in real truth occasioned to but, says Southey, “there is every rea
as the loss of many captured ships; son to conclude that the tyrant added
a storm arose after the victory, and the him to the numerous victims of his
disabled conquerors and vanquished murderous policy,” and the silence oh
were buffeted on the merciless coast: served in the ‘Moniteur’ strengthens
many of the prizes were destroyed. this suspicion (see Wat. et Cong. XVI.
The dying orders of Nelson, “ Anchor, 198).
Hardy! Anchor!” were disobeyed by The country now presents a true
Collingwood, whose first speech on as picture of a Spanish dekesa y despo
suming the command was, “Well! blado. The rich soil, under a vi ' '
that isthe last thing that I should have sun, is given up to the wild plant and
thought of!” Collingwood also made insect : earth and air teem with life.
another small mistake in his dispatch: There is a melancholy grandeur in
Nelson did not “die soon after his these solitudes, where Nature is busy
wound ;” he lived to gain the whole at her mighty work of creation, heed
victory. ' less of the absence or presence of the
Although none on either side of the larger insect man. Vejer—Bekkeh—
Pyrenees have yet claimed Trafalgar as offers a true specimen of a Moorish
their victory, yet all are convinced, had town, scrambling up a precipitous em
real nautical valour and science not inence. Pop. 9000. The venta lies
been marred by fortune and accident, below, near the bridge over the Bar
that it ought not to have been 011/rs. bate. Here Queseda, in March, 1831,
Every lie circumstantial was published put down an abortive insurrection. Six
at the time; thus the Journal de Pa hundred soldiers had been gained over
ris, Dec. 7, 1805, added 8 ships of the at Cadiz by the emissaries of Torrijos.
line to tho English squadron, while The loss in the whole contest, on which
the Gazetta de Madrid, of the 19th, for the moment the monarchy hung,
added 12. Although all these inven was one killed, two wounded, and two
H 2
148 ROUTE 2--——THE STRAITS OF GIBRALTAR. Sect. II.
bruised. According to Queseda’s bul- . of desert sand, rises abruptly out of
letin, worthy of his namesake Don the sea, in a tremendous jumble, and
Quixote, his troops performed “prodi- ‘ backed by the eternal snows of the
gios de valor!" a shower of crosses Atlas range; two continents lie before
were bestowed on the conquering us : we have reached the extremities of
heroes. Such are the guerrillas, the the ancient world; a narrow gulf di
truly “little wars” which Spaniards‘ vides the lands of knowledge, liberty,
wage infer se; and they may be well, and civilisation, from the untrodden
compared to the wretched productions ‘regions of barbarous ignorance, of
of some of the minor theatres, in which slavery, danger, and mystery. Yon
the vapouring of bad actors s1q>plies headland is Trafalgar. Tarifa juts out
the place of dramatic interest, and the before us, and the plains of Salado,
plot is perpetually interrupted by - where the Cross triumphed over the
scene-shifting, paltry coups de thédlre, .I Crescent. The white walls of Tangiers
and an occasional explosion of mus-i glitter on" the opposite coast, resting,
ketry and blue lights, with much smoke l, like a snow-wreath, on dark moun
(of cigaritos). tains: behind them lies the desert,
A mile inland is the Laguna dc the den of the wild beast and of
Jzmda. Near this lake, Taric, landing wilder man. The separated continents
from Africa, April 30, 711, encountered ; stand_aloof, frowning sternly on each
Roderick, the last of the Goths. Here ‘ other with the cold injurious look of
.the action commenced, July 19, which altered kindness. They were once
was decided July 26, on the Guadalete, united; “ a dreary sea now flows be
near Xerez. This one battle gave, tween,” and severs them for ever. A
Spain to the Moslem; the secret of , thousand ships hurry through, laden
whose easy conquest lay in the civil with the commerce of _the world: every
dissensions among the Goths, and the sail is strained to fly past those waters,
aid tl1e’invaders obtained from the deeper than ever plummet sounded,
monied Jews, W110 were persecuted by , where neither sea nor land are friendly
the Gothic clergy. Taric and Musa, to the stranger. Beyond that point
the two victorious generals, received is the bay of Gibraltar, and on that
from the caliph of Damascus that re- 3 gray rock, the object of a hundred
ward which since has become a stand- ‘ fights, and bristling with twice ten hun
ing example to jealous Spanish rulers ; dred cannon, the red flag of England,
they were recalled, disgraced, and died 1 on which the sun never sets, still braves
in obscurity. Such was the fate of the battle and the breeze. Far in the
Columbus, Cortes, the Great Captain, distance the blue Mediterranean
Spinola, and others who have con stretches itself away like a sleeping lake.
quered kingdoms for Spain. ‘ Europe and Africa recede gently from
At the Va. de Taibilla the track, each other; coast, cape, and mountain,
branches; that to the l. leads to the, face, form, and nature, how alike I Man,
Trocha, while a picturesque gorge to his laws, works, and creeds, how dif
the rt., studded with fragments of ferent and opposed !
former Moorish bridges and causeways, It is geologically certain that the
leads to the sea-shore. At the tower two continents were once united by a
La Peiia del Ciervo, the Highar Eggél dip or valley, as is proved by the vari
of the Moors, the coast opens in all ations of soundings The “ wonder
its grandeur. working” Hercules e. the Phoeni
" Where Mam-itania‘s giant shadows frovm, cians) is said to have cut a canal
From mountain-cliffs descending sombre between them. The Moors had a.
down." tradition that this was the work of
And here let the wearied traveller Alexander the Great (Ishkhander), who
repose a moment and gaze on the mag built a bridge across the opening, then
mficent panorama! Africa, no land very narrow; it gradually widened un
.Andalucz'a.' ROUTE 2-—rnn MEDITERRANEAN. 149
til all further increase was stopped by Moors never recovered the blow. , The
the high lands on each side. On these accounts of an eye-witness are worthy
matters consult Pliny, ‘N. H.’ 3, of Froissart (see Chron. de Alonso XI.,
and the authorities cited in our paper, ch. 248, 254). Cannon made at Da
Quar. Rev. cxxvi. 293. mascus were used here, for the first
The Moors called the Mediterranean time in Europe, as is said by Conde,
tl1e White Sea,,Bahr elA.biad, and Bahr 133. According to Mariana (xvi. 7)
Rum, the Roman Sea; they termed 25,000 Spanish infantry and 14,000
this Es-trecho, this Strait, which our horse now defeated 400,000 Moors and
tars have vulgarised into the “ Gut,” 70,000 cavalry. The Christians only
Bab-ez-zakak, the “ gate of the narrow lost 20 men, the infidels 200,000. Such
passage.” The length of the straits bulletins are to be ranked with those
from Cape Spartel to Ceuta in Africa, of Livy or Buonaparte’s “military
and from Trafalgar to Europa Point romances.” These multitudes could
in Spain, is about 12 L. The W. en never have been packed away in such a
trance is about 8 L. across, the E. about limited space, much less fed. To count
5 L. ; the narrowest point is at Tarifia, is a modern practice—the ancient and
about 12 m. A constant current sets “bulletin” mode was to guess num
in from the Atlantic at the rate of bers, and to augment or diminish as
2% m. per hour, and is perceptible 150 suited best.
in. down to the Oabo de Gata; hence Tamra, Pop. 9,000, the most Moor
it is very difiicult to beat out in a ish town of Andalucia——that Berlre/ria
N.W. wind. Some have supposed the Cristirma--vvas the ancient Punic city
existence of an under current of denser called Josa, which Bochart (Can. i. 477)
water, which sets outwards and relieves ' translates the “Passage ; ” an appro
the Mediterranean from this accession priate name for this, the narrowest I
of water, in addition to all the rivers point of the straits: the Romans re
from the Ebro to the Nile in a coast tained this signification in their Julia
circuit of 41500 L. Dr. Halley, however,Tmducta .- the Moors called it after
has calculated that the quantity evapo Taz-if Ibn Malik, a Berber chief, the first
rated by the sun, and licked up by to land in Spain, and quite a distinctper
hot drying winds, is greater than the son from Taric. Tarifa bears for arms
supply, and certainly the Mediterranean its castle on waves, with a key at the
has receded on the E. coast of the window; and the motto, “ Sedfuertes
Peninsula. The absorption on a surface en la guerra,” be gallant in fight. Like
of 1,14-9,287 square statute miles, by Calais, it was once a frontier key of
Halley’s rule, would amount to 7966 t importance. Sancho cl Bravo
million tons a day; yet, on the whole, took it in 1292, when Alonso Perez
the level of the Mediterranean remains de Guzman, as all others declined,
unchanged, for Nature’s exquisite sys oflered to hold this post of danger fora
tem of compensation knows no waste. year. The Moors beleaguered it, aided
Between La Pefia del Ciervo and . by the Infante Juan, a traitor brother
Tarifa lies a plain often steeped in of Sancho’s, to whom Alonso’s eldest
blood, and now watered by the brackish son, aged 9, had been entrusted pre
Salado. Here Walia, in 417, defeated viously as a page. Juan now brought
the Vandali Silingi and drove them into the boy under the walls, and threatened
Africa; here the chivalrous Alonso XI. to kill him if his father would not
(Oct. 28, 1340) overthrew the united surrender the place. Alonso drew his
forces of Yusuf 1., Abu-l-hajaj, King of dagger and threw it down, exclaiming,
Granada, and of Abu-l-hassan, King of “ I prefer honour without a son, to a
Fez, who made a desperate and last son with dishonour.” He retired, and
attempt to reinvade and reeonquer, the Prince caused the child to be put to
Spain. This victory paved the way for ‘ death. A cry of horror ran through the
the final triumph of the Cross, as the Spanish battlements: Alonso rushed
150 ROUTE 2.—~TARIFA--LAS ranirsfms. Sect. II.

forth, beheld his son’s body, and re- ‘ that make kerchiefs u pon the head of
turning to his childless mother, calmly every stature to hunt so .” Next in
observed, “ I feared that the infidel had danger to these tapadas were the bulls,
gained the city.” Sancho the King which used to be let loose in the streets,
likened him to Abraham, from this to the delight of the people at the win
parental sacrifice, and honoured him dows, and hon-or of those who met the
with the “ eanting ” name “ ElBueno,” uneivil quadruped in the narrow lanes.
The Good (Guzman, Gutman, Good The crumbling walls of Tarifa might
man). He became the founder of the be battered with its oranges, which al
princely Dukes of Medina Sidonia, now though the smallest, are beyond com
merged by marriage in the Villafraneas. parison the sweetest in Spain, but de
On this spot the recording ballads in fended by brave men, they have defied
Duran, v. 203, will best be read. the ball and bomb. Soult, taught by
Tar1_'f'a,nearly quadra , contains Barrosa the importance of this landing
some 12,000 inhab. ; the narrow and place, was anxious to take it, and had
tortuous streets are enclosed by Moorish he done so, must soon have been master
walls. The Alameda runs under the of all Andalucia, Gibraltar excepted.
S. range between the town and the sea : Gen. Campbell, in defiance of higher
the Alcazar, a genuine Moorish castle, authorities, most wisely determined to
lies to the E., just within the walls, garrison it, and sent 1000 men of the
and is now tl1e_abode of galley slaves. 47th and 87th, under Col.Skerrett : 600
The window from whence Guzman Spaniards under Copous were added.
threw the dagger has been bricked up, Skerrett, brave but always unfortunate,
but may be known by its border of despaired ; but Charles Felix Smith of
(1-:ule;;'os ,- the site of the child’s murder the Engineers was skilful, and Ool.,
is marked by a more modern tower now Lord Gongh, a resolute soldier.
called La Torre de Guzman. The Victor and Laval, Dec. 20, 181], in
“Lions” of Tarifa are the women, or vested the place with 10,000 men ;
lax Taaafefias, who are proverbial for between the 27th and 30th a practi
gracia y meneo. They continue to cable breach was made near the Retire
wear the mantilla as the Arabs do the gate; then the Spaniards under Copons,
boorko, and after the present Egyptian who were ordered to be there to defend
fashion of the tob and Hhabarah, in it, were not there —they, however, sur
- which only one eye is discovered ; that vived to claim all the glory (Madoz,
however is generally a piercer, and as it xiv. 609; Nap. 6); but Gough in
peeps out from the sable veil like a star, a good hour came up with his 87th,
beauty is concentrated into one focus the “Eagle-catchers,” and, with 500
of light and meaning. These tapadas, men, beat back 1800 picked Frenchmen
being all dressed alike walk about as in a manner “ surpassing all praise,”
at a masquerade, most eifeetually con and has lived to conquer China and
cealed, insomuch that husbands have Gwalior. Victor, Victus as usual, re
actually been detected making love to treated silently in the night, leaving
their own wives by mistake. These behind all his artillery and stores. This
Parthian assassin-glances have fur great glory and that astounding failure
nished jokes abundant to the wits of were such as even the Duke had not
Spain. Quevedo compares these rifle ventured to calculate on: he had dis
women to the abadejo, which means approved of the defence, because, al
both a water-wagtail and the Spanish though “ we have aright to expect that
fly; and thus combines the meneo and our oflicers and troops will perform
the stimulant. Such, doubtless, was their duty on every occasion, we had no
the mode of Wearing the mantilla right to expect that comparatively a
among the Phoenician eoquettes. small number would be able to hold
“ Woe,” says Ezekiel (xiii. 18), who Tarifa, commanded as it is at short
knew Tyre so well, “ Woe to the women distances, and enfiladed in every direc
Azzdulzicia. ROUTE 2.—TARIFA-—THE SIEGE. 151
tion, and unprovided with artillery, 5, 1813), and not “ even treated as a
_ and the Walls scarcely cannon-proof. gentleman.” “There are limits, how
The enemy, however, retired_with dis ever,” as even he said, “to forbearance.”
grace, infinitely to the honour of the Tarifa, indeed, is destined by the Spa
brave troops who defended Tarifa ” niards to counterbalance the loss of the
(Disp., Feb. 1, 1812). The vicinity of Rock. This fortress is being built out
Trafalgar, and the recollection of Nel of a tax levied on persons and things
son’s blue jackets, urged every red coat passing from Spain into Gibraltar :
to do that day more than his duty. thus the English are made to pay for
Now-a-days the Tamfefios claim all the their own annoyance. Tarifa, in war
glory, nor do the Paez Mellados and time, swarmed with gun-boats and
Co. even mention the English : so privateers. “ They,” says Southey,
Skerrett was praised by Lord Liverpool, “inflicted greater loss on the trade of
and Campbell reprimanded ; sic vos Great Britain than all the fleets of the
non vobis! The English not only de enemy, by cutting off ships becalmed
fended but repaired the breach. Their in these capricious waters.” A frigate
masonry is good, and their inscription, steamer at Gibraltar will soon abate
if not classical, at least tells the truth: that nuisance. Those who wish to
“ Hanc partem muri a Gallis obsiden examine Guzman Castle, or to draw it,
tibus dirutam, Britanni defensores con may as well obtain the governor’s per
struxerunt,,1812.” In 1823, when no mission, since the vicinity of Gibraltar,
87th was left to assist these heroic which has been made the hot-bed of
Tamfeflos, the French, under the puny revolutionists of all kinds, from Torri
Angouléme, attacked and took the place jos downwards, has rendered every
instantly : the inference is conclusive. Spanish garrison near it almost as sen
The real strength of Tarifa consists sitive as the Phoenicians, who wel
in the rocky island which projects into comed every stranger who pried about
the sea, on which a fortress has long the straits by throwinghim into the sea.
been building. There is a good light The Spaniards in ofiice are apt to have
house, 135 ft. high, visible for 10 L., a delirium tremens when they see the
and a small sheltered bay. This castle man of the pencil and note-book: they
commands the straits under some cir instantly suspect that he is making a
cumstances, when ships are obliged to plan to take the castle.
pass within the range of the batteries, The ride to Algeciras over the moun
and if they do not hoist colours are at ' tain is glorious; the views are splendid.
once fired into, especially those coming The wild forest, through which the
from Gibraltar. They fire even into Guadalmacil boils and leaps, is worthy
our men of war: thus, in Nov. 1830, of Salvator Rosa. Gibraltar and its
the “Windsor Castle,” a 74, taking bmutiful bay are seen through the
home the 43rd, was hulled without leafy vistas, and the bleeding branches '
any previous notice. The “VVindsor of the stripped cork-trees, fringed with
Castle,” like a lion yelpt at by a cur, a most delicate fern: the grand Rock
did not condescend to sweep the Tarifa crouches a' guise dc Leon cuando sa
castle from the face of the earth, yet posa. How imposing this mountain
such is the only means of obtaining i< mass ere the sun has risen frombeliind!
redress: none is ever given at Madrid. “Poussin,” say the French, “ could
England is nowhere treated more con not paint it; Chateaubriand could
tumeliously than by Spain and Por not describe it;” or M. Joinville take
.tugal, the two weakest and most un it. This is indeed the sentinel and inas
grateful governments in Europe, and ter of the Mediterranean, the “ Great
saved by her alone from being mere Sea” of the Bible, the bond of nations,
French provinces. . The Duke, even the central cradle of civilisation; and
while in the act of delivering them, was different indeed would have been the
entirely without any influence (G“- Sept. world’s condition,had this expansebeen
152 noon: 2.--ALGECIRAS. Sect. ]I.

a desert sand; and happy the eye and Algeciras, pop. 11,000, has risen like a.
the
sightmoment
of this most
when classic
any catch
sea, their
to behold
first L Phoenix, having been rebuilt in 1,760
by Charles IIl., to be a hornets’ nest
whose shores was truly, as Dr. J ohn- 1 against Gibraltar, and such it is,
son said, the grand end of travelling. swarming with privateers in war-time,
These are the waters on which com-~ and with guarcla cosias or preventive
merce first waited with white-wingedl service cutters in peace. What a con
sails all the art and science that raises ‘ trast from old Moorish Tarifa; in a.
us above the savage. How grand the m0rning’s ride we jump from one
age ofthey
deeds history
havethat records the
witnessed! beau- i‘ age and people to another. The hand
howmighty
some plaza has a fountain erected by
tiful in picture and poetry this blue‘ Castafios, who was governor here in
and deepest
the sunlit ultramarine,
sea! The general
with acolour is 1 1808, when the war of independence
singular
broke out. He, as usual, was without
phosphorescent luminosity produced‘ arms or money, and utterly unable to
by the myriads of infusoria: a green‘ move, until the English merchants of
tint indicates soundings, and a deepi Gibraltar advanced the means ; he then
indigo blue, profound depth. marched to Bailen, where the incapa
Algeciras lies in a pleasant nook. city of Dupont thrust greatness on him.
‘Inns: Fonda Frtmcesa near the beach. ‘ 'l‘he artist should sketch Gibraltar
' Fonda dc Esp aim. This, the Portus from near the aqueduct and Molina
Albus of the Romans, was the green de San Bernardirm. The walk to the
island of the Moors, Jeziratu-l-Kha water-falls is picturesque, the cork
dra; an epithet still preserved in the trees grand, the picknicks pleasant.
name of the island opposite, La Isla Between Algeciras and Tarifa, June
Verde, also called de las Palomas. 9, 1801, the gallant Saumarez attacked
The King of Spain is also King of the combined French and Spanish
Algeciras, a remnant of its former im fleets under Linois; the enemy con
portance, it being the Moors’ key of sisted of 10 sail, the English of 6. The
Spain. It was taken by the gallant “ Superb,” a 74, commanded by Capt.
Alonso XL, March 24, 1344, after a Richard Keats, out-sailed the squadron,
siege of 20 months, at which foreign and alone engaged the foe, taking the
crusaders from all Christendom at “ $t. Antoine,” a French 74, and burn
tended, who no doubt did the best ing the “ Real Carlos ” and “ San Her
of the work, for the benefit and glory rnenigildo,” two Spanish three-deckers
of .1V0.&'0ir0.?. It was the siege of the of 112 guns each. Keats had slipped
age, and 40 years afterwards Chaucer, between them, and then out again,
describing a true knight, mentions his leaving them in mistake from the dark
having been at “ Algecir ”—a Waterloo, ness to fire at and destroy each other.
a Trafalgar man. Our chivalrous Ed Algeciras is the naval and military
ward III. contemplated coming in per position from whence Gibraltar is
son to assistAlonsoXI.,a monarch after watched and worried, for theforeigner’:
his own heart. The ckronica de Alonso possession of that angulus rankles
.YI. gives the Froissart details, the gal- ‘ deeply, as well it may. In the tens»
lant behaviour of the English under cious memory of Spain, which never
the Earls of Derby and Salisbury forgives or forgets, it is hardly yet
(Chr. 301), the selfish misconduct of a fait accompli. During summer, the
the French under Gaston de Foix, who cool stone-houses of Algeciras are in
kept aloof at the critical moment (Chr. finitely better suited to the climate,
311). The want of every thing in the than the stuffy dwellings on the arid
Qastilian camp was terrific: cosas cle rock; and here the foreign steamers
_Espa,7a. Alonso destroyed the Moor touch, which ply backwards and for
1sh town and fortifications. wards between Cadiz and Marseilles.
Modern rectangular common-place The distance to Gibraltar is about
Andalucia. ROUTE 3—CAR'1‘EIA. l53
5 m. across by sea, and 10 round by ‘as after Trafalgar, buifeted victors and
land. The coast-road is intersected by ‘vanquished (Florus, iv. 2).
the rivers Guadaranque and Palmones :
on crossing the former, on the eminence
El Rocadillo, now a farm, the‘ corn ROUTE 3.~—-CADIZ T0 SEVILLE BY
grows where once Carteia flourished. STEAM.
This was the Phoenician Melcarth (Me While waiting for the completion of
lech Ksrtha), King’s-town, the city of a railway there are several ways of
Hercules, the type, symbol, and per getting to Seville; first, by land, in
sonification of the navigation, coloniza the diligence, through Xerez; secondly,
tion, and civilization of Tyre : the by water, by steamers up the Guadal
Phcenicians, be it remembered, called Quivir ; and thirdly, by a combination
it Tartessus, Heracleon. Humboldt, of land and water.
however, reads in the Oar the Iberian Those who prefer the land, may take
prefix of height. This was afterwards the diligence to San Ducar, which it
among the earliest and one of the few reaches, having passed through the Isla
Greek settlements tolerated in Spain and made the circuit of the bay there,
by their deadly rivals of Tyre. a route interesting only to crab-fanciers
Carteia was sacked by Scipio Africa and salt-refiners. The country, vege
nus, and given (171 13.0.) to the illegiti tation, and climate are tropical. Be
mate children of Roman soldiers by tween the Puerto and San Lucar the
Spanish mothers (Livy xliii. 3). Here traveller will remember the Oriental
the younger Pompey fled, wounded, ploughings of Elijah, when he sees 20
after his defeat of Munda, whereupon and more yoke of oxen labouring in
the Carteians, his former partisans, at the same field (1 Kings, xix. 19).
once proposed giving him up to Caesar: San Imcam de Barrameda, Lueiferi
they have had their reward; and the Fanum, rises amid a treeless, sandy,
fisherman spreads his nets, the punish undulating country, on the l. bank of
ment of Tyre, on her false, fleeting, the Guadalquivir. White and glitter
and perjured daughter. The remains ing, it is an ill-paved, dull, decaying
of an amphitheatre, and the circuit of place; pop. 16,000. Inn, Fonda del
walls about 2 miles, may yet be traced. Comercio ,- the best café is El Oro, on
The Moors and Spaniards have alike the Plazuela. This town, taken from
destroyed the ruins, working them up the Moors in 1264, was granted by
as a quarry in building Algeciras and Sancho cl Bravo, to Guzman el Bueno.
San Roque. The coins found here are The importance of the transatlantic
very beautiful and numerous (see Flo trade induced Philip IV., in 1645, to
rez,Med. i. 293). Mr. Kent, of the port resume the city, and make it the
oflice at Gibraltar, formed a Carteian residence of the captain-general of
museum, consisting of medals, pottery, Andalucia. Visit the ancient English
glass, &c. Consult, for ancient au Hospital of St. George, founded in
thorities, Ukert (i. 2. 346), and ‘A 1517 by Henry VIII. for English
Discourse on Carteia,’ John Conduit, sailors. Godoy, in 1799, sold the pro
4t0., London, 1719; and the excellent perty, and promised to pay interest on
‘Journey from Gibraltar to Malaya,’ the proceeds. In 1854 the unpaid
Francis Carter, 2 vols., London, 1777. ‘capital and arrears due from the go
From El Rocadillo to Gibraltar is ‘vernment amounted to 2400l. From
about 4 m. through the Spanish lines. :San Lucar Fernando Magalheans em
The whole ride from Tarifa took us lbarked, Aug. 10, 1519, on the first cir
about 10 h. icumnavigation of the world: the Vic
Midway towards Abyla the great toria was the only ship which returned
sea-fight took place between Luelius ,'Sept. 8, 1522, Fernando having been
and Adherbal (Livy xxiii. 30), and killed, like Capt. Cook, by some savages
again between Didius and Varus, and in the Philippine Islands. San Lucar
that fearful subsequent storm which, exists by its wine-trade, and, is the
I
154 nours 3.-—SAN LUCAR—MANZANILLA WINE. Sect. II.

mart of the inferior and adulterated view over the flat marisma, with its
vintages which are foisted oil’ in Eng agues and fevers, swamps and shifting
land as sherries. Nota bene, here, at. sands, arenas voladeras, is truly desert
least, drink manzanilla, however much like, and a fit home of birds and beasts
it may be eschewed in England, which of prey, hawks, stoats, robbers, and
being, fortunately, not a wine growing: custom-house oflicers. M. Fenelon, in
country, import-s the very best of all his ‘Télémaque’ (lib. viii.), describes
others, leaving the inferior for native these localities as the Elysian Fields,
consumption. The name describes its and peoples the happy valleys with
peculiar light camomile flavour, which patriarchs and respectable burgesses.
is the true derivation, for it has no For the journey by water, the de
thing to do with manzana, an apple, partures and particulars of the steamers
and still less with the town Manzanilla to Seville, are advertised in the Cadiz
on the opposite side of the rircr. It is i gatpers and placarded in all the posadas.
of a delicate pale straw colour, and is ‘ er crossing La Bahia the Guadal
extremely wholesome; it strengthens quivir is en near Cipiona Point.
the stomach, without heating or ine Here was the great Phoenician light
briating; hence the Anclalucians are house called Cap Eon, the “ Rock of
passionately fond of it. Excellent the Sun.” This the vain-glorious
manzanilla is to be procured in Lon Greeks, who never condeseendcd to
don, of German, 16, Mark Lane. learn the language of other people,
Drink it, ye dyspeptics! “ barbarians,” converted into the Tower
The climate of San Lucar is ex Of C8pl0, 1'00 Kn-inane; wt/g'yo;, l7l16 “ C8
tremely hot: here was established, in pionis Turris” of the Romans. Those
1806, the botanical Garden dc Aclima who wish to avoid the rounding this
tacion, in order to acclimatize South point by sea may cross over to the
figierican and African animals and Puerto, and take acalesa to San I/ucar,
nts: it was arranged by Boutelou and there rejoin the steamer. Seville is
and Rojas Clemente, two able gar distant about 80 m. The voyage is per
deners and naturalists, and was in high formed in 7 to 8 hours, and in less
order in 1808, when the downfall of when returning down stream. Fare, '
Godoy, the founder, entailed its de first cabin, 3 dollars; there is a good
struction. The populace rushed in, restaurant on board.
killed the animals, tore up the plants, La Puebla . 14} L.
and pulled down the buildings, because ' Coria . 2
the work of a hated individual. But Gelbes . . . . . 4
San Juan de Alfsrache 4»
at all times Spanish, like Oriental ven
geance is blind even to its own interests, The smoke of the steamer and actual
and retaliates against persons and their inspection of the localities discharge
works even when of public utility. the poetry and illusion of the far-famed
San Lucar is no longer the point of and much overrated Guadalquivir of
embarkation, which is now about a mile . classical and modern romance. “ Thou
up the river at Bonanza, so called from Baatis,” sing the native poets, “ crowned
a liermitage, .Z/um,’/‘en’ fanum, erected with flowers and olives, and girdled by
by the South American Company at beauteous nymphs, wafisest thy liquid
Seville to Na. Sc. de Bonanza, or our crystal to the west, in a placid amorous
Lady of fine weather, as the ancients current.” Spaniards seldom spare fine
did to Venus. Here is established an 5 words, when speaking of themselves or
aduana, where luggage is examined. their country; and this pellucid river,
The district between Bonanza and San in sober reality and prose, is here dull
Lucar is called Algaida, an Arabic and dirty as the Thames at Slleerncss,
word meaning a deserted waste, and and its “Elysian Fields” are as unpic
such truly it is : the sandy hillocks are turesque as those at Paris or our “ Isle
clothed with aromatic brushwood, of Dogs.” The turbid stream slowly
dreary pines, and wild grapes. The eats its way through an alluvial level,
Andalucia. . ROUTE 3.—TnE GUADALQUIVIR. 1 55

given up to herds of cattle and aquatic talking for the last 300 years of im
fowls: nothing can be more dreary: proving the navigation, see Las obras
no white sails enliven the silent waters, l del Maestro Perez Fernan de Oliva,
no villages cheer the desert steppes ; ltto, Cordova, 1586, p. 131 ; and in
here and there a choza or hut oifers a 1820 a new company-—conservators of
poor refuge from the red hot sun. In the 1-iver—was formed for the purpose,
this riverain tract, called La Maris-ma, and a tax laid on the tonnage of ship
swamps, ague, and fever are perpetual. ping, which has been duly levied, al
In these plains, favourable to animal though not much more has been done
and vegetable life, fatal to man, the beyond jobbing: meantime the bed is
miserable peasantry, like those on the filling, the banks falling in, with no side
Pontine marshes, look yellow skeletons canal, norailroad, to supply the want and
when compared to their fat kine. Here . shorten the line of this tortuous river.
in the glare of summer a mirage mocks The river below Seville has branched
the thirsty sportsman. This Sa/rab or oil‘, forming two unequal islands, La
vapour of the desert with its optical Isla Mayor and Manor. The former
deeeptions of atmospheric refractions the Kaptal of the Moors, and Captel of
is indeed the trick of fairies, a Fata old Spanish books, has been cultivated
Morgana, and well may the Arabs tenn with cotton by the company, who also
it Moyet-Eblis, the Devil’s water. On cut a canal through the Isla Manor,
the r. hand, in the distance, rise the ‘ called La Cortarlu/ra, by which 3 L. of
mountains of Ronda. The Guadal winding river are saved. Foreign ves
quivir, the “great river,” the Waida=l sels are generally moored here, and their
Kebir or Wzida-Z-adhem of the Moors, cargoes are conveyed up and down in
traverses Andalucia from E. to W. The barges, whereby smuggling is vastly fa
Zincali, or Spanish gipsies, also call it cilitated. At Ooria, iamous under the
Len Baro, the “ great river.” The Ibe Romans for bricks and pottery, are
rian name was Certis (Livy xxviii. 16), still made the enormous earthenware
which the Romans changed into Baatis, jars in which oil and olives are kept‘:
a word, according to Santa Teresa, who these tinajas are the precise amphorzz
understood 1J11l{I1OWIl tongues, derived of the ancients, and remind one of
from Bseth, “blessedness ;” but the Morgiana and the Forty Thieves. The
Generalissima of Spain had revelations river next winds under the Moorish
which were denied to ordinary mortals, Hisnu-l-faraj, or the “ Castle of the
to geographers like Rennell, or to phi Cleft,” or of the prospect “al Faradge,”
lologists like Humboldt and Bochart, now called San Juan de Alfa/1-ache ,
who suspects (Can. i. 34) the etymology and then turns to the r., and skirting
to be the Punic Lelzitsin, the lakes or the pleasant public walk stops near the
swamps of the Bzetis termination, Tor-re del Ora, gilded with the setting
whence the I/ibystino lacu of Fest. sun, and darkened by Aduaneros, who
Avienus (Or. Mar. 289). The river , worry passengers and portmanteaus.
rises in La Mancha, about 10 L. N. of
Almaraz, flows down, and at Ecija
receives the G-enil and the waters of Rooms 4.—Ca1>1z TO SEVILLE BY
the basin of Granada: other numerous LAND.
aflluents come down from the mountain San Fernando . . 2}
valleys on each side. Under the An Pnerto Real. . . . 2 4'}
Puerto de Se. Marin . 2 6%
cients and Moors, navigable to Cor Xerez . . . . 2 .. Si
dova, it formed a portavena to that Va. del Cuervo . . 3+ .. 12
district, which overflows with oil, corn, Fa. de la Vizcaina . . 1 .. 13
Torres de Alocaz . . 21} .. 151'
and wine. Under the Spanish mis Utrera . . . . 34* .. 19
government these advantages were lost, Aloahi de Guadaira. 2 21
and now small craft alone reach Seville, Sevi1la.. ...2.:23
and with difliculty. They have been This is a portion of the high road from
l56 ROUTE 4.—xaiu~:z ms LA rnosraaa. Sect. I1.

Cadiz to Madrid; the whole distance? by many to have been the ancient
is 108} L. There is some talk of a Asta regia Cznsariana, some mutilated
railroad, to be made and paid for by sculpture exists in the Calla de Biz
Englishmen, butfestina lente is a Spa coclleros and Calla de los Idolos, for
uish axiom, where people are slow to the Xeresanos call the old graven
begin and never finish. The journey is images of the Pagans idols, while they
uninteresting, and sometimes danger bow down to new sagradas imagenes
ous: leavingXerez the lonely road across in their own churches. Part of the
the plains skirts the spurs of the Ronda original walls and gates remain in the
mountains, sometimes the lair of mala, old town: the suburbs are more regu
gente, Moron being generally their lar, and here the wealthy wine-mer
head-quarters, for smuggling and the chants reside. Xerez was taken from
intricate country favour these wild the Moors, in 1264, by Alonso el Sabio,
weeds of the rank soil. the Learned. The Moorish alcazar,
The best plan of route from Cadiz which is near the public walk, is well
to Seville, is to cross over to the Puerto preserved, and offers a good specimen
by steam and take a calesa to Xerez, of these turreted and walled palatial
paying 1 dollar; although the road is i fortresses. It belongs to the Duque de
ilidilferent the drive is pleasant, and‘ San Lorenzo, on the condition that he
the view from the intervening ridge, cedes it to the king whenever he is at
La buena vista, is worthy of its name : Xerez. The Casa de Riqnelmes, with
the glorious panorama of the bay of its torre de Homenaje, may also be
Cadiz is a perfect belnedere. There is visited. Observe the Berruguete facade
a decent posada at this half-way rest of the Oasas de Cabildo, erected in
ing-place. From Xerez drive in a ca 1575. Notice the facade of the churches
lesa to Bonanza, about 3 L. of weari of Santiago and San Miguel, especially
some road, and there rejoin the steamer. the Gothic details of the latter. The
The best Posada at Xerez is of San‘ Oolegiata, begun in 1695, is vile chur
Dionisio on the Plaza La Consolacion. rigueresque ; the architect did not by
F. Travies0—3, Calle de la Lenzeria. accident stumble on one sound rule, or
The great hospitable wine-merchants deviate into the commonest sense: but
seldom, however, permit any one who the wines of Jerez are in better taste
comes with an introduction “to take. than the temples, and now-a-days more
his ease in mine own inn.” go to the cellar than to the church.
Xerez de la Frontera, or Jerez-—for ‘ The vinous city has a few books and
now it is the fashion to spell all those 1 coins. The legends and antiquities of
Moorish or German guttural words, Xerez are [described in Los Santos de
where an X or G is prefixed to an open Xerez, Martin de Roa, 4t0., Seville,
vowel, with a J : e. g., Jimenez for? 1671; and there is a new history by
Ximenez, Jorge for George, &c.—is Adolfo de Castro. Xerez was renowned
called of the frontier, to distinguish it for its Major, who were considered,
from Jerez (le Zos Caballeros, in Estre however, of a. low caste, may-cruos,
madura. It was termed by the Moors crndos, raw, when compared to the
Skerish Filistin, because allotted to a» Majo fino, the may cocio-cocido, the
tribe of Philistines. The new settlers boiled, the well-done one of Seville
from the East, preserved alike the names | phrases as old as Martial. The Majo
of their old homes, and their hatred of Xerezano was seen in all his flash
neighbours. Jerez, pop. 34,000, risesi glory at the much frequented fairs of
amid vine-clad slopes, studded with, May 1 and Aug. 15; but picturesque
coriijos y haciendas, with its white nationalities are giving place to the
washed Moorish towers, blue-do1ned' common-place coats and calicos of civi
Colegiata, and huge Bodegas, or wine lization. He is a great bull-fighter,
stores, looking
men-of-war like pent-houses
at Chatham. for and a fine new Plaza has recently been
Supposed;
built here. His reguiebros are, how
Andalucia. ROUTE .4.-—XER.EZ—SHERRY WINES. 157
ever, over-flavoured with sul Andaluga, are added, will stand the importer from
and his jaleos and jokes rather prac 100 to 130 guineas in his cellar. A
tical: Burlas de manos, burlas de butt will run from 108 to 112 gallons,
Xerezanos. The quantity of wine is and the duty is 5.9. Gd. per gallon. Such
supposed to make these valientes more a butt will bottle about 52 dozen.
boisterous and occasionally ferocious, The excellence of sherry wines is
than those of all other Andalucians: . owing to the extreme care and scientific
“ for all this oalou/r,” as Falstafl' says, methods introduced byforeigners, who
“comes of sherris.” They are great are chiefly French and Scotch. The
sportsmen, and the shooting in the great houses are Pedro Domecq, Pe
Illa/risma, especially of deer, bustards, martin, Gordon, Garvey, Isasi, Bermu
wild fowl, and woodcocks, is first-rate. dez, Beigbeder. A.Bode_ga, the Roman
Parties are made, who go for weeks to ' horrea, the wine-store or apotheca, is,
the Coto de Doiia Ana and del Rey. unlike our excavated cellars, always
The growth of wine amounts to above grolmd. The interior is deli
some 500,000 arrobas annually; this ,ciously cool and subdued, as the heat
Moorish name and measure contains a and glare outside are carefully excluded;
quarter of a hundred weight: 30 go to here thousands of butts are piled up
a bota or butt, of which some 34,000 during the rearing and maturing pro
are annually produced, running from cesses. Sherry, when perfect, is made
8000 to 10,000 really fine. This wine up from many different butts: the
was first known in England about the “entire” is in truth the result of
time of our Henry VII. It became Xerez grapes, but of many sorts and
popular under Elizabeth, when those varieties of flavour. Thus one barrel
who under Essex sacked Cadiz brought corrects another, by addition or sub
home the fashion of good “shcrris traction, until the proposed standard
sack.” It is still called seco here, aggregate is produced. All this is
which is the old English seclc, the managed by the Capataz or head man,
French sec, a word used in contradis who is usually a Montaaies from the
tinction to the sweet malvoisies. It was Asturian mountains, and often becomes
ousted by Madeira wine, but brought the real master of his nominal masters,
back into fashion by Lord Holland, whom he cheats, as well as the grower.
whose travels in Spain abroad, and He passes this life of probation in
table at home, gave him the right to tasting : he goes round the butts, mark
dictate in dinnering at least. Mean ing each according to its character, cor
while the bulk of good Spaniards recting and improving each at every
scarcely know sherry beyond its im successive visit.
mediate vicinity. It is, in fact, a The callida juncture ought to unite
foreign wine, and made and drunk by fulness of body, a nutty flavour and
foreigners; nor do Spaniards like its aroma, dryness, absence from acidity,
strength, and still less its high price. strength, spirituosity, and durability.
Thus, even at Granada, it is sold as a Little brandy is necessary: the vivi
liqueur. At Seville, in the best houses, ' fying power of the unstinted sun of
one glass only is, or in our time used Andalucia imparting suificient alcohol,
to be, handed round at dinner as the which ranges from 20 to 23 per cent.
golpe medico, or chasse, the m as ‘nar in fine sherries, and only 12 in clarets
class, Of
Ama; called “ T/“mo (l.
Athenseus seco,
20). e first andchampagnes. Fine, pure old sherry
fino, oloroso \ is of a rich brown colour. The new
y generoso,” is very dear, costing half raw wines are paler; in order to flatter
a dollar a bottle on the spot. Pure , the tastes of some English, “pale old
genuine sherry, from 10 to 12 years‘sherry" must be had, and the colour
old, is worth from 50 to 80 guineas 1 is chemically discharged at the expense
per butt, in the bodega; and when of the delicate aroma. The am0ntiZ
freight, insurance, duty, and charges I Zado is so called from a peculiar, bitter
158 nouns 4.—xsimz—wmas—'mr; canrum. Sect. II. I

almond, dry flavour, somewhat like the crack vineyard, and inspect the vinous
wines of Montilla, near Cordova: much buildings and contrivances. Many of
sought after, it is dear, and used in] the great growers have villas on their
enriching poorer and swectish wines.‘ vineyards, such as El Recreo, Valse
There is always a venerable butt that quillo, La Granga, &c.; this latter
contains some Madre vino, or rich wine, belongs to Mr. Domecq, whose vine
by which young butts are reared as: yard, Macharnudo, is the primest, and
by molhefs milk. The contents are: really the Johannisburg of Jerez ,- the
very precious, and the barrels named 1 Carrascal, Barbiana alta y baja, Los
after Ferdinands, Nelsons,Wellingtons, Tercios, Cruz del Husillo, Aiiina, San
kings and heroes. The visitor is just Julian, Mochiele, and Carraola, are
allowed a sip, by way of bonne bouehe. also deservedly celebrated.
The sweet wines of the sherry grape? No one should fail to visit the Oar
are delicious. The best are the Mos t-uju convent, which lies about 2 m. to
-cadel, the Pedro Ximenez, so called the E., although this once magnificent
from a German vine-grower, and the‘ pile is now desecrated. The finest of
Pajarete ,- this term has nothing to do the Zurbaran pictures have passed into
with the pajaros, or birds which pick y England, having been sold dog-cheap
the most luscious grapes, but simply} at the sales of Louis Philippe and Mr.
is the name of the village where it was -‘ Standish, in 1853 ; some few others,
first made. the refuse, are in the Museo at Cadiz.
Every traveller will of course pay This Carthusian monastery was founded
a visit to a great Bodega, the lion of in 1477 by Alvaro Obertos de Valeto,
Xerez and big as a cathedral, a true whose figure in armour was engraved
temple of Bacchus : those of P. Domecq in brass before the high altar: one
or Charles Gordon are the finest. The Andres de Ribera, in the time of
former gentleman has some pictures, Philip II., added the Doric Herrera
but his best gallery is that of butts of portal: the more modern facade is very
sherry. There the whole process of bad. This Cartuja was o11ce very rich
. making sherry will be explained. The in excellent vineyards, and possessed
lecture is long, and is illustrated by the celebrated breeding-grounds of An
experiments. Every cask is tasted, dalueian horses, to which the French
from the raw young wine to the ma dealt the first blow. The decree of
ture golden fiuid. Those who are not » suppression, in 1836, destroyed, at one
stupificd by drink come out much fell swoop, both monk and animal.
edified. From the result of many The establishments have been broken
courses of lectures, we recommend the up, and the system ruined. The loss
student to hold hard during the first of the horses will long be felt, when
samples, for the best wine is reserved that of the friars is forgotten. On the
for the last, the qualities ascending in Carthusian convents and monks of
a vinous climax. Perhaps the better Spain, consult Primer Institute de la
plan would be to reverse the order, and Sagrada Reltyion de la Ca/rtuja, Jo
begin with the best while the palate is seph de V_alles, 410., Mad., 1663.
fresh and the judgment sober. All the Below the Gartuja rolls the Guada
varieties of grape and soil are carefully lete.~ A small hill, called el real de
described in the Ensago sabre las cami Don Rodrigo, marks the head-quarters
edades cle la Vid en Andalucia, Simon of the last of the Goths : here the battle
Rojas Clemente, 4to., Mad., 1807; in was terminated which put an end to his
the Jllemorias sabre el Oultivo de la Vid, dynasty (see p. 148). Lower down is
Esteban Boutelou, 4to., Mad., 1807; el Portal, the port of Xerez, whence
see also our notices in the ‘ Quarterly the sherries were embarked for elPuerto
Review,’ cxxvi. 308; and in the ‘Ga before the railroad conveyed the butts
therings,’ eh. xiv. The student will to the very shipboard.
also do well to drive out and visit some The Guadalete, from the terminating
Arldalzzcia. aourn 4.-rm: RIVER or OBLIVION. s 159
syllables, has been connected, by those clean and fresh by running streams.
who prefer sound to sense, with the Formerly flourishing and very popu
Lethe of the ancients, which, however, lous, it fell into decay, but within 10
is the Limia, near Viana, in Portugal, years has been much improved by an
and obtained its oblivious reputation, silcalde named Cuadra. The Carmelite
because the Spanish army, tl1eir leader convent was turned into a prison, and
being killed, forgot on its banks the the Sn. Juan de Dios into a philhar
object of the campaign, and disbanded monic theatre. The Sa. Maria de la
most orientally each man to “his own Mesa has a good Berrugucte portal,
home.” Cosas de Espafla. called el Pardon, and a tomb of a Ponce
This Limsea, or Limia, was the fur de Leon, with an armed kneeling figure.
thest point to which Brutus advanced, There is a ruined castle. Utrera, in a
as his troops trembled, fearing that military point, is of much importance.
they should forget their absent wives. The high road from Madrid to Cadiz
Florus (ii. 17. 12) records this unmili makes an angle to reach Seville, which
tary fear. Strabo (iii. 229) observes can be avoided by marching from Ecija.
that some called the Limia Bfluivu, direct through Arahal. The saints of
which Casaubon happily amends oB>.m Utrera have long rivalled the bulls:
uu§va;, the Fluvius Oblivionis of Pliny, thus the Virgen de la Oonsolacion at
Mela, and Livy. The Gracco—Roman the Convento de Mmimos, outside the
name of the Gaudalcte was Chrysos, town, N.E., is the Palladium of the
and golden is the grape which grows ploughmen. Built in 1561, it used to
on its banks: it is that fluid, and not be frequented by thousands on the 8th
what flows between them, which erases of Sept., when a fair was held, and
their absent dames from the memories votive offerings made: now little more
of bad husbands. It is stated by Flo takes place than the sale of child.ren’s
rez (Esp. Sag. ix. 53) that the name toys ; nay, there is a scheme of turning
Chrysos was changed by the victorious the building into a madhouse. Tem
Moors into Wad-al-leded, El rio de pore. mutantur. Consult an especial
deleite, the river of delight; but this book on this “ Santuario ” by Rodrigo
is a very doubtful etymology, and the Caro, 8vo., Osuna, 1622. Consult Epi
Moorish name really was Wada-lekah. Zogo de Utrera, Pedro Roman Melendez,
A wild bridle-road through Arcos com 4-to., Sevilla, 1730. About 2 L. from
mimicates with Ronda. See p. 263. Utrera is a fine olive hacienda of the
The Camino real, on leaving Xerez, Conde de Torre Nueva, which is well
on one side skirts a waste called La managed ; at Morales 1 L. to l. are the
Llanura de Caulina; it is well pro ruins of a most ancient castle. There
vided with bridges, by which the many is a short bridle-road to Seville, by which
streams descending from the moun Alcalii is avoided and left to the rt.
tains to the rt. are crossed. The lonely Alcald de Guadaira, where the P0
expanse is truly Spanish, and in spring soda is very tidy, si gnifies the “ castle
teems with beautiful flowers, of which of the river A.i.ra,” and was the Punic
the botanist may fill a vasculum and a Hienippa, a “place of many springs.”
note-book. It is also called de los Panade-ros, “of
Utrera, Utricula, during the Moorish the bakers,” for it has long been the
struggle, was the refuge of the agricul oven of Seville: bread is the staff
turist who fled from the Spanish talas of its existence, and samples abound
and border forays, and is inhabited by everywhere ; Roscas, a. circular-formed
rich farmers, who rent the estates rusk, are hung up like garlands, and _
around, where much corn, oil, fruit, hogazas, loaves, placed on tables out
and wine is produced; here vast flocks side the houses. “Panis hic longe
arc bred, and those fierce bulls so re pulcherrimus; it is, indeed, as Spa
nowned in the Plaza. Pop. 11,000. niards say, Pan de .Dio.9—the “angels”
The streets and alamedas are kept bread of “Esdras." Spanish bread
160 nours 4.—ALc.iL5.-—sQU1~:I>ucr. Sect. II.

was cstocmed by the Romans for its’ following the slopes of the irregular
lightness (Plin. ‘N. H.’ xviii. 7). All ground. The gardens are all that Flora
classes here gain their bread by making 1 and Pomona can combine.
it, and the water-mills and mule-mills, i In the town observe the pictures in
or atahonas, are never still; they ex-1 Sam Sebastian by Fr°. Pacheco, father
ceed 200 in number: women and chil
dren are busy picking out earthy parti- i in-law to Velazquez, and also a “ Pur
gatory” by him in the church of San
cles from the grain which get mixed, tiago. In the convent de las monjas
from the common mode of threshing is a Retablo with six small bas-reliefs
on a floor in the open air—-the era, or by Montafies. The “ Sa. Clara receiv
Roman area. The corn is very care ‘ing the Sacrament” is the best; his
fully ground, and the flour passed small works are rare and beautiful.
through several hoppers in order to Alcahi, the “city of springs,” sup
secure its fineness. Visit a large bake plies temperate Seville both with bread
house, and observe the care with which and water, prison or Iberian fare. The
the dough is kneaded. It is worked; alembic hill is perforated with tunnels :
and re-worked, as is done by our biscuit some are 2 L. in length. The line
bakers: hence the close-grained caky =of these underground canals may be
consistency of the crumb. The bread, traced on the outsides of the hill by
is token into Seville early every morn the lumbreras, lodvres, or ventilators.
ing. Alcahi, pop. about 6000, is pro Do not fail to visit the Molirw de Ia
verbial for salubrity, and is much re- Mina, whence Pedro de Ponce Leon,
sorted to as a summer residence, and in 1681, took the title of marquis.
it always escapes the plagues which The excavations in the bowels of the
so often have desolated Seville; the rock are most picturesque, and no
air, freshened by the pure Ronda crystal can be clearer than the streams.
breezes, is rarefied by the many ovens, Some of these works are supposed to
of which there are more than 50. For be Roman, but the greater part are
local information consult the MGMOHGS = Moorish. The collected fluid is car
Historicas de Aleald, Leaudro Jose de ried to Seville by an aqueduct; the
Flores, duo, Sevilla, 1833-4. first portion is enclosed by a brick
The castle is one of the finest Moor cafie-ria. The Roman works were com
ish specimens in Spain, and was the pletely restored in 1172 by Jusuf Abu
land-key of Seville. It surrendered, -Iacub (Conde, ii. 380); but all was
Sept. 21, 124-6, to St. Ferdinand, the permitted, as usual, to go to decay
garrison having “fraie1'nised" with under the Spaniards: the coping was
Ibn-1-Ahmar, the petty king of Jaen, broken in, and the water became turbid
who was aiding the Christians against and unwholesome. In 1828, Don Jose
the Sevillians, for internal divisions Manuel dc Arjona, Asrlatente of Seville
and local hatreds have always been and its great improver, set apart about
causes of weakness to unamalgamating 40,000 dollars from a tax on meat, for
Spain. The Moorish city lay under 1 the restoration of~ this supply of vital
the castle, and no longer exists. A importance to an almost tropical city;
small mosque, now dedicated to San ‘ but this ready money was seized upon,
Miguel, on whose day the place was 1 in 1830, by the needy Madrid govern
taken, and made into a barraek by the l ment, and spent in putting down
French, is all that remains. Observe Z Mina’s rebellion after the three glorious
the tapia walls, the mazmorras, subter- '~ days at Paris. The aqueduct, on ap
ranean corn granaries, the cisterns, aZ- preaching Seville, is carried in on some
gibes, the inner keep, and the hu e d0n- 400 arches, called “ Cafios de Car
jon tower, la torre mocha (mota , built mona,” because running along the
by the Spaniards. The river below road leading to that city. The sports
makes a pretty sweep round the rocky man may walk with his gun over the
base, and long lines of walls run down, flats between Alcalzi and Seville to the
Andalucia. noun: 5.—XEREZ T0 SEVILLE. 161

1. of the high-road, which are full of ! risma leads to Lebrija, nicely placed on
snipes and wild-fowl in winter. a slight eminence, with a deeentposada.
The valley of the Guadaira above This is the ancient Nebrissa-Veneria,
Alcalé. should be visited by the artist, according to Pliny (‘ N. H.,’ iii. 1);
to see the Moorish mills and towers others read Venaria, and connect it
which Ir-iarte sketched, who, accord with the huntings of the Nimrod Bac
ing to Murillo, was fit to paint Para chus and his wines (Sil. Ital. iii. 393).
dise, so relative is praise. Iriarte, a Bochart derives the name from the
second-rate artist, was almost the only ‘Punic Nae-Pritza, a “land of over
landscape-painter Spain has produced. flowing,” to which these riverain flats
There, as among the ancients, land are subject. ‘Here was born the great
scape was used as a mere background _ grammarian and restorer of letters in
or accessory, and deemed beneath the Spain, Antonio Cala Jarana del Ojo,
dignity of art. Neither the Church< better known as Nebritsensis. Observe
nor the people were worshipers of La Mafiquita del Maranolejo, a head
Nature, or had any genuine percep less Roman statue, now christened the
tion of her charms. little marble Mary; notice the florid
_ Leaving Alcala, the noble causeway plateresque Retablo of the Par!-oquia,
winds gently round the hill, hanging once a mosque, with some of the ear
over the river. In the plains below, liest carvings in cedar and mahogany
amid orange and olive-groves, rise the of Alonso Cano, 1630-36, especially
sun-gilt towers of stately Seville. The the Virgin and Child, with all his mild
Moorish Giralda is pre-eminently the and melancholy grace, and the St.
emphatic point. To the r. of the road, Peter and St. Paul. Behind the church
about 2 miles from Seville, is the Mesa is a pretty orange planted cloister, with
del Rey, a square stone table on which a good crucifix by Montafies. Leaving
thebodies of criminals are quartered, “a Lebrija, the plains become more mono
pretty dish to set before a king;” this is tonous. Of Cabezas de San Juan, a
an Arabic custom,andsuch atableexists miserable hamlet, the proverb says, N0
at Cairo (Lane, i. 332). Next, we reach , se hace nadrz an el consqjo del reg, sin
La Cruz del Campo, placed in an open Cabezas. To judge by the results of
Moorish-looking temple, but erected in most of the councils of Madrid, the ca.
1482. It is also called el Humilladcro . binet has too often been selected from
here travellers used to kneel, and thank this wrong-headed village. It was one
the Virgin and Santiago for safe arrival of the first places which responded to
at their journey’s end, having escaped the cry of Riego, for which he was
the pains and perils of Spanish travel ; hanged, and so many others lost their
now both these dangers and their piety heads on the scaffold. Before arriving
.are much decreased; here the Esta at Los Palacios, is a long-ruined Ro
ciones (see p. 187)_ from the Casa de man and Moorish causeway, La alum
Pilatos terminate. tarilla (A1-abice, the little bridge),
The bridle-road from Xerez to Se raised on account of the inundations
ville is much shorter than the circuit above the level of _the Marisma, and
made by the diligence; it crosses the now half dilapidated. Lox Palacios
plains, but is scarcely carriageable ex are any thing now but palaces. The
cept in summer. common occurrence of the term de
notes either the past magnificence of
Spaniards, or their habit of calling
Roars 5.—,Xmz1-:z TO SEVILLE. their geese swans.
Lebrija . . . . . . 5
Cabezas de Sn. Juun . . 2 .. 7
A los Palacios . . . . 3 .. 10
Scvilla . . . . . . 4 .. 14

An uninteresting ride over the Ma


A~_-Fm

162 ROUTE 6.—ATALAYAS—WATCl-I TOWERS. Sect. II.


Hannibal built so many of these
Roars 6.-8421 Lrcsa TO Ars atalayas on the coast from Cadiz to
nos-rs. Saguntum that they went by his name,
“ turrcs, speculas Hannibalis” (Plin.
Torre be Solnvur . 2
Torre dc Carboneros . 1 3 ‘ N. H.’ 71); Caesar followed his
De la Higucrim. . . 2 5 example (Hirt. ‘B. H.’ 7) ; from these,
Del Oro . . . . - 3 .. 8 signals were made by fire at night, by
Moguer . 3 .. ll
Huelva . . . . 1 12 smoke by day. These were the “ sign of
Alfaraque . . . 1 13 fire” (Jer. vi. 1), the ¢eUKTl7! ofThucyd.
Carmya . . . 2 15 (iii. 22), and see Polyb. (x. 43, 45),
Lepc . . . 1 18
Redondela . 1 17 and the magnificent lines of ]Eschylus
Ayamonte . 3 20 (Ag. 291). Pliny describes these “ignes
It remains to describe, as shortly as ‘i praenunciativos ” as used “proptcr pira
ticos terrores,” and so Charles V. re
possible, the dreary roadless country! paired these martello towers when
which lies on the r. bank of the Gua threatened by the invasions of Barba
dalquivir, and which extends to the rossa. Thus they have occupied the
Guadiana and the Portuguese frontier. same sites, and testify the continuance
This is called the Jlarisma or marsh of the same fears of unchanged Iberia,
district, and also the Condado, or whether Carthaginian, Roman, Moor
county of Niebla: formerly it was a. ish, Gothic, or Spanish ; many are very
petty Moorish kingdom and with most picturesque, perched on headlands and
of this district passed into the great eminences; they stand forth on the
Guzman family. Let none go there blue sky, like lonely sentinels and mo
except driven by dire necessity, or on a numents of the dangers of this ever
sporting excursion. Spanish mis-go troubled land. They now are generally
vernment and neglect have here done occupied by preventive service guards.
their worst. They are commonly built in tapia,
There is constant communication by a sort of African or Phoenician con
water in picturesque Misticos; those crete, introdueed with the system of
who go by land must ride. The accom the towers themselves, and like them
modations are everywhere wretched: continued unchanged in the cognate
attend, therefore, to the provend, as lands of Spain and Barbary. The
nothing of comfort will be found but component mixture of st-ones, mortar,
what the Wayfarer brings with him. and rubble, is placed moist in a move
The wide plains are almost uninhabited . able frame of wood kept together by
and uncultivated, but the inherent fer bolts; it is then rammed down, the
tility of the soil is evidenced by the ‘bolts withdrawn, and moved onwards
superb stone-pines and fig-trees, which or upwards as the case requires. Hence
may be termed indigenous. The coast the Romans called them “ parietes
road is guarded by Atalayas, or formacei,” walls made in frames (Pliny,
“ watch-towers,” Arabice Taliah, from ‘N. H.’ xxxv. 14) ; he particularly de
ialéa, to “look out from above :” they scribes those of Spain, and notices their
are of rcmotest antiquity, as the coasts indestruetibility : they, in fact, become
of Spain have always been exposed to solid masses, petrifactions. The Goths
piratical descents from Africa, where continued the practice, calling the
the descendants of the Carthaginians
method “formatum ;” and karma still
never forgot their dispossession by the
means a mud wall. The word tapia is
Romans. The Berber Moors recovered Arabic ; it is still called tobi in Egypt,
the count of their Oriental fore and signifies an earthen wall, Devonice,
fathers; and their descendants, again Cob. These walls continue to be now
dispossessed b the Spaniards, remem built both in Andalucia and Barbary
ber a. land w 'ch they still consider after the same ancient method (see our
their rightful property. ' paper in the Quart. Rev. cxvi. 537, for
-~
,-y- n-1
Andalucia. mourn 6,—1\IOGUER—COLUMBUS. 163
the learning and practice of these va some adventurers of the name of Pin-
rieties of Cob). zon, a family not yet extinct in these
Moguer—Lontigi Alontigi—the pre localities; and to this very port, on
sent word means in Arabic caves, of March 15, 1493, 7 months and 11
which there are many in the neigh days afterwards, did he ret1u'n, having
bourhood—rises gently above the Rio ‘ realised his grand conception, con
Tinto, and trafiics in wine and fruit; - ferred a new world on his sove
the town and castle are much dilapi- , reigns, and earned immortality for
dated. The parish church~t0wer is himself—-services soon to be repaid by
built after the Giralda of Seville. Be breach of faith and ingratitude. 00-»
low Moguer is the port, Palos, Palus sas de Espaiia. At Palos, again,
Etreplaca. Visit, one short L. from Cortes landed in May, 1528, after thee
Palos, the Franciscan convent Santa conquest of Mexico, and also found
Maria Rébida, a Moorish name so shelter in the same convent walls where
common in Spain, and signifying Columbus had-lodged on his return
“ frontier or exposed situations,” Rab 35 years before, and like him returned
bitah, Rebath, which were defended by to be also slighted and ill-rewarded
the Raibitos ; these were the Marabi By a strange coincidence, Pizarro, the
tins, the Morabitos, the Almorabides conqueror of Peru, was also at Palos at
of Conde, a sort of Ghilzee, a half fa this moment, commencing that career
natic soldier-monk, from whom the of conquest, bloodshed, and spoliation,
Spaniards borrowed their knights of which Cortes was about to close. Pi-
Santiago. ' zarro was assassinated. Those accom
This convent was ordered, in 184-6, to plished Americans, Prescott andWash
be preserved as a national memorial, ington Irving, have with singular grace
and is to be fitted up forinvalid soldiers ; and propriety illustrated the age of'
it has already given shelter to those Ferdinand and Isabella, when their
great men whom Spain could once~ country was discovered. For the best
produce; but it is now fast going to works on its early history, consult
ruin, and the wood of the cells stripped catalogue published by Mr. Rich, in
ofl‘. Here, in 14-84, Columbus, craving London, 1832: or, in the ‘.Biblio~
charity with his little boy, was received théque Américaine,’ by M. Ternaux.
by the Prior Juan Perez de Marchena. Paris, 1837. Palos now is a poor
This monk, when the wisest kings and fishing port, and a thing of decrepid
councils had rejected as visionary the Spain.
scheme of the discovery of the New Huelva, Onuba, of Phoenician origin
World, alone had the wit to see its’ (consult “Disertacion sabre On/uba,”
probability, the courage to advocate Barco y Gasca, 4to. Sev. 1755; and
the plan, and the power to repare the ‘ Huelva ilus-2‘/rada,’ Juan. Ag. de Mora.
experiment. He must, in eed, share 4~to. Sev. 1762), stands on the conflu
in the glory of the discovery of Ame ence of the Odiel and Tinto. Some
rica,Jor by his influence alone with antiquaries read in the word Onulm
Isabella, was his protégé Columbus en “ abundance of grape bunches.” As
abled to sail on this expedition. The tarloa prefers the Basque, and trans-»
armament consisted of two caravels, or lates Wuelba as a “hill placed under
light vessels without decks, and a third a height.” It is a seaport, and the
one of larger burden ; 120 persons em capital of its triangular province ; there
barked and started “on the 3rd of are two middling posadas ,- pop. 7000..
August, 1492, from this port of Palos, It is a busy tunny-fishing town, and
and bidding adieu to the Old World, _in constant communication with Por-
launched forth on that unfathomed tugal, Cadiz, and Seville/sending much
waste of waters, where no sail hadl fruit and floor mattings to the latter"
ever been spread before” (Prescott, ii. places. The water is delicious. The
214). Columbus was accompanied by vestiges of a Roman aqueduct are fast
164 ROUTE 6.—Tna NORMANS LN SPAI\'. Sect. II.

disappearing, having long served as a the figs, the best of whicharethe Lozio
(t_llill!ll'l:_V1 to the booiiiéh CtllltlVt2ll§OI‘B of‘ and P€Z(;l1\\ill(i1()1; fillerefigwvlsntéil
cricienvirons. ean ime ie mo- j'M7LCO, 0 w c e ne
(lest motto of the place is “Portus ester:/as‘,floor-mattings,a.remade. Aya
Maris ct terrw custodial" monie, Sonoba, Ostium Anne, was the
Huelva is 15 L. from Seville; the city whence the Roman military road
road is merely a. bridle one. The chief to Mcrida commenced. An island on
traliic is carried on by passage-boats, 5 the Guadiana is still called Tyro, and
which navigate the Guadalquivir. The vestiges of ruins may be traced. Popu
land route is as follows :— ' lation, nearly 5000. There are 2 par
lroquias and a ruined castle, and al
san J"‘*“ del P“°'w 2 though a frontier fortress it is in a most
N‘ bla . . . 2 4 . .
vifl,,m_,,, _ _ 2 6 4 Spanish and Oriental state of neglect,
La.Palnin. . . . 1 7 yet it calls itself the key and port of
gE‘::‘IZJ‘:::;:“,a-\,a3,or- - Z lg the Guadiana: the neighbouring pine
ge,-me _ 3 ‘I 16 ‘ forests provide timber tor building 'm1.8
§ tico: and coasting craft.
The country is uninteresting, a1- In the ninth century the Normans
though of extraordinary fertility in or Northmen made pi.ratical excursions
titheable oil, wine, fruit, and grain. on the WV. coast of Spain. They passed,
Niebla, accordingly, has 5 parish in 843, from Lisbon down to the straits,
churches, and had2convents, a decent and everywhere, as in France, over
spiritual supply for 580 inhab. Niebla, came the unprepared natives, plunder
thc ancient Ilipla, (Livy xxv. 1), lies , ing, burning, and destroying. They
between the rivers Villarasa and Bear, captured even Seville itself, Sept. 30,
and has a castle ruined by the French, 84.4, but were met by the Cordovese
and a most ancient but dilapidated ' Kalif, beaten and expelled. They were
bridge. It is the chief town of its called by the Moors Majus, Madjous,
county or condado, which formed a Magioges (Conde, i. 282), and by the
small principality under the Moors; early Spanish aunalists Almajuzes. The
here much bad wine is made, which is root has been erroneously derived fiom
sent to San Lucar, and converted for May“, Magus, magicians or superna
the English market into fine sherry, tural beings, as they were almost held
neat as imported, at only 36s.the dozen, to be. The term Madjous was, strictly
bottles included. Palm-a, with some speaking, applied by the Moors to
3500 souls, is equally dull, which, in- - those Berbers and Africans who were
deed, may be predicated throughout ‘ Pagans or Muwallads,i. e. not believers
this fat district, which a judicious tra- ‘ in the Koran. The true etymology is
veller will carefully avoid. that of the Gog and Magog so fre
Continuing R. vi., after leaving i quently mentioned by Ezekiel (xxxviii.
Huelva and crossing the Odiel is Lepe, and xxxix.) and in the Revelations (xx.
Leppa, Leptis, near the Rio dc Piedra: i 8) as ravagers of the earth and nations,
it is a poor town in a rich district, May-Gogg, “ he that dissolveth.”—The
having been twice sacked by the French. ‘ fierce Normans appeared, coming no
The population, some 3000, are fisher- one knew from whence, just when the
men and smugglers. Lepe furnished l minds of men were trembling at the
the Londoners in Chaucer’s time with approach of the millennium, and thus
“rede and white wine,” which, accord- | were held to be the forerunners of the
ing to the Pardoner’s tale, was sold in i destroyers of the world. This name
“Fish Street and Chepe," and “crept of indefinite gigantic power survived
subtelly” into the brains of the citizens. in the Mogigangm, or terrific images,
These drinks probably came from Re- which the Spaniards used to parade in
dondella, where the wines are excel- their religious festivals, like the Gogs
lent, and the fruit delicious, especially and Magogs of our civic wise incn of
Andalucia. norms 7 .—SAN LUCAR TO POR.'l‘UGAL. 165

the East. Thus Andalucia being the ‘ from the Ale-aide can be lodged in this
half-way point between the N. and S.E., Palacio, as it is here called; but this
became the duel meeting-place of the Spanish palace, as often elsewhere,
two great ravaging swarms which have it means, in plain English, cuatro pa
desolated Europe: here the stalwart|~redes, four bare walls. Aprudent man
children of frozen Norway, the wor- ' —experto crede—will always send on
shippers of Odin, clashed against the a galera laden with everything from a
Saracens from torrid Arabia, the fol-, cook to a mattress: take especially
lowers of Mahomet. Nor can a greater good wine, for fuel and game alone
proof be adduced of the power and are to be had. This coto is distant 8
relative superiority of the Cordovese L. from Seville, and the route runs
Moors over the other nations of Eu-~ through
rope, than this their successful resist Bolullos . . . . . 3
ance to those fierce invaders, who over Aznalcazar . . 2 5
ran without dilficulty the coasts of Villa Munrique . 1 6
England, France, Apulia, and Sicily: El Coto 2 .. 8
conquerors everywhere else, here they The ride is wild; the first 5 L. run
were driven back in disgrace. Hence through the Ajarafe, A1-abice Sharaf,
the bitter hatred of the Normans against “the hilly country." This fertile dis
the Spanish Moors—-hence their alli trict, once called the garden of Her
ances with the Catalans, where a Nor cules, was reserved by St. Ferdinand as
man impression yet remains in archi the lion’s share at the capture of Seville.
tecture; but, as in Sicily, these barba It produced the finest Bsatican olives
rians, unrecruited from the North, of antiquity, and under the Moors was
soon died away, or were assimilated as a paradise, but now all is ruin and de
usual with the more polished people,‘ solation. The Spaniards in their talus,
whom they had subdued by mere su or raids, ravaged everything, and broken
periority of brute force. roads and bridges mark their former
warfare. The ruins have remained un
removed, unrepaired, after six centuries
ROUTE 7.—SA1\' Loom T0 PORTUGAL. of neglect and apathy ; meanwhile there
Palacio cle Dona Ann 4 is not only excellent lodging for owls in
Al Rorio . . . . 3 .. 7 the old buildings, but capital cover for
Almoute . . 3 .. 10 game of every kind, which thrive in
Rociana 2 12
Niebla . . . 2 14 these wastes, where Nature and herferaz
Trlgueros . . 2 16 are left in undisputed possession. N0
Gibraleou . . 2 18 man who is fond of shooting will fail
San Bartnlomé . 3 21
A los Castillejos . 3 24 spending a week either at the Cato del
San Lucar de Guadiana. 3 27 Rey, or that of Doiia Ana.
Leaving the last place, and passing
The first portion is some of the finest the sanctuary of our Lady of Dew, we
shooting country in Andalucia. Ma reach Abmonie, i.n the “Condado” of
rismillas is an excellent preserve. The ‘ Niebla, which is described at p. 162.
palace of Dofia Ana, a corruption of Trigueros (Cunistorgis) was t-he port
Ofiana, was the celebrated sporting seat whence the ancients shipped the ores
of the Duque de Medina Sidonia, where of the Sierra Morena, the Montes Ma
he received Philip IV. in 162-1~. To rianos. Gibraleon, as the Arabic name
the N. lies the Coto del Rey, or Lomo signifies, “ the hill of Color,” pop.
del Grullo. The shooting-box of this 2500, is a decayed but ancient place.
royal preserve was built last century San Ducar de Guadiamz is the poor,
by Francisco Bruna, the alcaide of the ill-provided frontier town, on its river,
alcazar of Seville, under whose jurisdic which divides Spain from Portugal,
tion these woods and forests are or were. and is navigable to the picturesque
Parties who come with a permission rock-built Mertola, 5 L. Ayamonte lies
166 ROUTE 7.—SEVILLE—-LACQUEYS DE PLACE. Sect. II.

below San Lucar, distant about 6 L. some respectable native; thus a house
by water (see Rte. vi.): we again re may be furnished in a day or two.
peat, let none visit this rt. bank of the Seville, this marvel of Baetica, the
Guadalquivir, except to shoot. ' Zezriya de mi alma of the Andalucians,
being a place of easy access and of many
SEVILLE. attractions, is more visited than most
“ Quinn no ha mlsto d Sevilla, cities of Spain: accordingly the demand
No ha vista d mara.villa." of foreigners has created a supply of
" He who has not at Seville been, that useful personage the regular lac
Has not, I trow, a wonder seen."
quey de place, who is rarely to be met
Inns.—F0ncla de Madrid, Plaza de with in other towns. Among them
Magdalena; the best but dearish; Antonio Bailly, to be heard of at the
Fonda de Europa, Calle Gallegos; Reyna, or at his house, No. 5, Calle
good, charges 30 reals a day; Ln Rcynoso, can be recommended, not only
Reyna, Calle de Jimios, an old and. as a good guide in the town, but for a
more genuine Spanish posada, is kept courier or travelling servant through
by a civil Portuguese; coldish in winter, out Spain : he has much experience in
it is pleasant enough in summer. Po that line, and makes a capital factotum
sada de la Union, Calle de la Union. and dragoman to those who cannot
There are many decent casas de pupi discourse eloquent Spanish. Antonio
los; the charges vary from 15 to 25' is fat and good-humoured, speaks Eng
reals a day; lodgings also may be had lish well, can sing a good Andalucian
in plenty, and bad dinners sent from song, manage to get up a gipsyfnneion
the restaurateurs. The traveller should en Trinna, &c. &c. This dance is the
lodge near the Plaza San Francisco, real thing, and the unchanged exhibi
and if he intends to reside here awinter, tion of the Improbw Gaditanw of an
in the Calle de las Armas, or at all tiquity. A public Baile is given in the
events in the parish San Vicente, which Salon Oriente every Saturday evening,
is the aristocratic quarter. Avoid the admittance one dollar. English ladie
flat districts near the Macarena, as had far better not go. Another intelli
subject to inundations, and the neigh- gent guide, Gustave de Wllinslci, maybe
bourhood of the Tor-re del Oro, near heard ofat the Europa. By birth a Pole,
which the open Ta_qarete—little better he was formerlya professor oflanguages,
than a Fleet-ditch—exha1es fever and of which he speaks many. Jose’ Lasso
unhealthiness. de la Vega, an oflicer who once served
In the quarters we recommend, while under Sir C. Campbell, and who is to
few large houses are to be let furnished, be heard of at the Union, speaks excel
the rent for those unfurnished is mo lent Castilian. Paacaal Rose, at the
derate—from 4.~0l. to 501. a year: a Madrid, a native of Gibraltar, speaks
palace, as far as size goes, may be had five languages, is a good cook and a
for 1001. a year; a Spanish house, at capital servant. DittmFrederick Ba/r
best, is poorly furnished, according to~ low, who was born in Spain of an Eng
our wants and notions, but carpets, lish father. Gaetano Peickler, an an
&c., are a nuisance here to every living cient and good Cicerone, lives at No. 3,
being except fleas. Calle de los Menores ; he is a Spaniard
Those about to furnish will find tole by birth, although of German origin,
rable and second-hand articles supplied and speaks English well: he tratfics
at the brokers’ shops, which form a also in copies of pictures, clay figures,
street of themselves, running out of the &c. All travellers should consult Don
Plaga de la Encarnacion: and these Julian Williams, our most excellent and
chalanes will, when the stranger leaves, obliging Vice-Consul. There is a Ca
take the things ofi‘ his hands; let no sino here in the Plaza del Dugue, in
new comer buy or sell with these un the old ducal palace; but no one is
conscionable people, but commission admitted in the Majo (the genuine
Andalucia. ROUTE 7.-—SEVILLE— TR.ADESMEN—H1S'l‘ORY. 167

dress of Seville) dress, all nowadays is fol., Sev. 1677 ; this excellent work was
so civilised and denationalised! continued down to 1700 in the 2nd
The fair sex will find the Calles ed. by Espinosa y Carccl, 5 v. 4to.,
Franicos and dc la Sierpe the most Mad. 1795-96. Anales Ecclesiasiicos
fashionable and best supplied shopping y Seglares, from 1671 to 174.6, by L0
streets. Generally speaking the dif renzo Bautista. Zuiiiga, fol., Scv.1748 ;
ferent trades dwell, as anciently in the also Compendio Historico, Sev. 1766;
East (Jer. xxxvii. 21), in streets appro ,and the new ed. under the name of
priated to themselves; thus booksellers ' Varflora: this author also published a
congregate in the Calle de Genoa work on the 1/Vorthies of Seville, Hijos
their Paternoster-row; silvers-miths live ale Seville, 1796. Of modern guides
under the arcades of the Plaza and in there is the poor ‘ Guia,’ by Herera
the adjoining Calle Chicarreros; hard Davila, Sev. 1832; Seville and its Vici
ware dealers, here called los Alemanes, nity, by F. H. Standish, Lond. 1840, a
reside opposite the cathedral; saddlers still more dull, inaccurate compilation.
and makers of the gaiter, the embroi The capture of Seville from the
dered national botin, in the Calle de la Moors by St. Ferdinand, a campaign
Mar: of these Bernardo Delgado is of romance, has been illustrated by the
the best; Penda, Calle de la Borcigue ballads and fine arts of Seville. The
neria (a Moorish boot), was the crack student will consult the Froissart-like
majo tailor; Martinez, Calle de Genoa, C)L1'07ti6‘(l del Scmcto Reg/, by Don
ranks high for more European raimcnt. Lucas, Bishop of Tuy, an eye-witness,
The names of many of the streets-— fol., Valladolid, 1555; the Meinorial,
Oalle Frances, Genoa, Alemanes, Pla Juan Pineda, fol., Sev. 1627; Acta S.
ceutines, &c., offer the surest evidence Ferzlinandi, Daniel Paperbroch, fol.,
that tratlic was chiefly managed by Antwerp, 1688; the Fiestas de la
foreigners, Flcmings especially, who had Santa Iglesia de Seville, Fernando de
factories and privileges, and this even la Torrc Farfan, fol., Sev. 1672-3: this,
in vaunted commercial Seville. one of the few really artistical books of
The invalid will find Seville a very Spain, is illustrated with etchings by
eligible place for winter residence. Dr. Sevillian painters. For the fine arts
Francis (p. 37) gives full hygienic there are the excellent Descripcion
details, and justly enlarges on_the vo Artistica de la Catedral de Sevilla,
luptuous softness of the air, of a nature Cean Bcrmudcz, 8vo., Sev. 1804, and
which exhilaratcs both morally and phy his little volume on the Pintura de la
sically. He dwells on the effects of its Escuela Sevillana, Cadiz, 1806, and the
sunshine, which rekindle strength and Seville Artictica, J. Colon y Colon,
youthful feelings. Calmness forms a Sev. 1841; for Ecclesiastical Antiqui
marked character of the climate, which ties consult Florez, Esp. Sag. ix.;
is dryer and warmer than Cadiz, and Ponz, Viage, ix.; Sevilla Pintoresca,
very suitable for cases of bronchitis Jose Amador de los Rios, 4to., Sev.
and atonic dyspepsia; another pecu 184.4. The Arabic in it is inaccurate:
liarity is the kindly manner in which ,thc author then had no Gayaugos to
serious wounds heal. help him. Consult also Noticia Artis
The man of letters will not lack food tica by Gonzalez de Leon, and the good
for the mind, as few cities have had article on Seville in Madoz, xiv. 209,
more chroniclers than Seville. The which is a book of itself.
best works are Historic de Sevilla, There are two plans of Sevillc; one’
Alonso Morgado, fol., Sev. 1587; His very large and accurate, by Vargas y
toric de Sevilla, Pablo dc Espinosa Machuca, 1788; the other more con
de los Montcros, fol., 2 parts, Sev. _venient for the pocket, by Herrera y
1627-30 ; Aniigiledalles de Sevilla, R0 Davila, 1832. The streetology is difii
drigo Caro, fol., Sev. 1634; Anales cult as the town is a labyrinth of lanes,
Ecclesiasticos, Diego Ortiz do Zuiiiga, each of which resembles the other ; and
168 ROUIE 7.—SEVlLLE—l-IARLY HIS'I‘0l’.\'. Sect. II.

as the names of manv of them were Seville was the capital of the Silingi,
verv absurdly changed in 184-5, the , and of the Goths until the sixth cen- _
little duodccimo street guide, or Calle- , tury, when Leovigild removed his court
jero, published in 184-6 by Alvarez,] to Toledo, as being more centrally situ
will be useful. | ated, while Hermenegi1dus,.his son and
Before examining Seville as it is, a heir, remained as viceroy ; he soon re
brief epitome of the past maiy be pre- y linquished the Arian faith, and declared
faced: the history and date 0 its foun- 1 against his father, by whom he was
dation is lost in the obscurity of remote put to death as a rebel ; but when the
antiquity, as is pretty clear, when men 5 Athanasian Creed was finally intro
go to Hispan and Hercules, who pro duced, he was canonized as a martyr.
bably never existed. The old name‘ These religious wars were headed by
Hispal sounds very Punic, and is de the brothers San Laureano and San
rived by Arias Montano from Seplzela‘ Isidoro, men of powerful intellects,
or Spela, a plain, which is much more successively Archbishops of Sc-ville,
likely than the derivation, a palis, the and now its sainted tutelars. The
piles on which it is not built; this, a former is called the “Apostle of the
mere coincidence of sound, not sense, , Goths,” the latter the “Egrcgious
misled San Isidoro (Or. xv. 1), a dread- y Doctor of Spain.” (See Index, Isi
ful “ maker of shots," but who, being its ' doro.)
archbishop, might have known better. Seville, with all Spain to the west, was
But sound etymological principles are conquered by the Mahomedans under
quite modern, and when Niebuhr the same Kalif Walid, who subjugated
alluded to “that unspeakable spirit Scinde also to the east. The unwarlike
of absurdity which always came over city surrendered to the Moors at once,
even the most sagacious Greeks and after the defeat of Don Roderick on
Romans the moment they meddled the Guadalete: there was treason and
with etymology," he might well have dissension within its walls, for the de
added “patristic and mediteval scho throned monarch’s widow, Egilona,
lars and even saints.” Be that as it soon married Abdu—l-aziz, the son of
may, Hispal, if not of Iberian founda the conqueror Muss-Ibn-Nosseir. Se
tion, was certainly a Phoenician settle ville continued its allegiance to the
ment connecting Gaddir with Cordova: Kalif of Damascus until the year 756,
the Greeks changed the name into when ’Abdu-r-rahman established at
In-ma, and the Romans into Hispalis, Cordova the western Kalifatc of the
of which the Moors made Ishbiliah,F Beni Umeyyah family, to which Se
whence Sibilia, Sevilla. ville remained subject until 1031, when
Of its ante-Roman history little is that dynasty was overturned, and with
known beyond the fact that it was soon it the real dominion in Spain of the
eclipsed by Italica, a military town, by Moor. Then the ill-connected fabric
Gadm, a sea-port, and by Cordova, the split into sects, dlmohades and almo
residence of patrician settlers. Julius ravides, and separate adventurers set
Caesar patronised Seville, because Cor themselves up as kings——sheiks—over
dova had espoused the side of Pompey; each province and town, to become
having captured it Aug..9, forty-five rivals and enemies of each other. The
years before Christ, he became its Sevillian separate monarchy was short
second founder, made it his capital, a lived. The house divided against itself
convenius _7'm~idicus, or town of assize, could not stand, and still less at a mo
and gave it the title Romula, the little ment when the kingdoms of Leon and
Rome; but even then it was more a , Castile were consolidated under St. Fer
Punic than Roman city, and by no } dinand, one of their best of kings, and
means splendid, according to Italian; bravest of soldiers.
notions (Strabo, 208) ; it was, how He advanced into Andalucia, taking
ever, walled round (Hirt. ‘ B. H.’ 35). city after city, the petty rulers being
Andalucia. ROUTE 7,—SEVILLE'—ARMS AND DEVICES. 169
unable to resist single-handed: nay, events and persons form subjects for
partly from tribe hatred and partly the authors and artists of Seville, and
from selfish policy, they assisted as are therefore briefly stated. They have
allies of the Christians, each bidding been tersely summed up in the distich
against each other; thus Ibn-l-ahmar, which is inscribed over the Puerta ale
the upstart Sheikh of Jaen, mainly la Carne
contributed to the capture of Seville. “ Condidit Alcides—renovavit Julius urbem,
The city was besieged from the S.E. Restituit Christa Femandus tertius heros."
side, at Tablada, Aug. 20, 1247: the
details are quite a romance, especially This is thus paraphrased over the
the vision of the Virgin, the breaking of Puerta de Xerez :
thebridge of boats by Ramon Bonifaz, “ Hercules me edifice,
and the prowess of Diego, El Mackaca, Julio Cesar me cercd
De muros y torres altar;
the brother of Garci Perez de Vargas, ( Un Rey Godo me perdid), omitted.
the model of Don Quixote (i. 8). These El Rey Santa me gand,
are the subjects and heroes of ballads, Cam Gama’ Perez de Vargas.”
and of the poem of the Conde de la “ Hercules built me; Ji\1ius Caesar surrounded
Roca, El Fernando, 6 Sevilla Restau me with walls and lofty towers ; a Gothic king
rada, Milan, 1632: an author who lost me ; a saint-like king recovered me, assisted
by Garci Perez de Vargas.”
modestly likened himself to Tasso, and
took San Isidoro for his Apollo. Se Seville, in the unnatural civil wars
ville surrendered Nov. 23, 12-18, on el after the conqueror’s death, was the
din de San Clemente. The citizens only city which remained faithful to
had previously been subject to the his son and successor, Alonso el Sabio,
Emperor of Morocco, but at the death the lea/med, but not wise. He was like
of Arrashid, their African lie e lord, our pedant James I., so well described
in 1242, they had chosen a 'ng of by Gondomar, as “The most learned
their own, whom they soon displaced, fool in Christendom,” and both would
establishing a sort of republican Junta, have made better professors than kings
headed by Sakkaf, the Axataf of Spa ——capzu.-es 'im42em'i, nisi 1'/m_pe'rassent.
nish annals. Thus Seville was lost to Alonso gave Seville the badge, which is
the Moors after a possession of 536 to be seen carved and painted every
years; After the capture St. Ferdinand where. It is called El Node, and is
divided the houses and lands among thus represented: No. 8I>o; the hiero
his soldiers, and this curious ‘ Reparti glyphic signifies No-m’ha deem-D0, “ It
miento,’ or Doomsday Book of Seville, has not deserted me.” Madexa in old
-¢~.Tm._@.~
exists, printed in the 2nd vol. of Espi Spanish meant a knot, and is the Go
nosa’s work; and many families can thic Mataza, Nodus (San. Isid. 01".,
trace their actual houses and posses xix. 29). Thus was reproduced unin
sions up to this original partition. tentionally the old Phoenician mer -.‘-=_.4_-.~»m_-.
For the nobility of Andalucia, see N0 chant mark, the Noclus Hen.-ulis—the
bleza del Andaluzia, Gonzalo Argote knot which guaranteed the genuineness
de Molina, fol., Sevilla, 1588: it has of the contents of every bale: hence
plates of their coats of arms, and is a the Mark of these founders of com
fine and rarish book. merce beoame the symbol of peace,
St. Ferdinand granted to the city for trade, and of the god of thieves, and
arms, himself seated on his throne, with was perpetuated by the Greeks in the
San Laureano and San Isidoro for his twisted ornaments of the herald Cadu
supporters. He died here, while medi ceus of Mere (Macrob. Sat. i. 19).
tating an invasion of Africa, worn out Seville continued to be the capital of
by long services, May 31, 1252, and Spain, and especiall of Don Pedro,
was canonized in 1668 by Clement IX.; who was more than lialf a Moor, until
his body was removed to its present Charles V. remoyed the court to Val
shrine, in 1729, by Philip V. All these. ladolid 3 yet it remained faithful-—true
Spain—I. I
170 ROUTE 7.—5EVILLE UNDER SOULT. Sect. II.

to the sun, although not shone upon— three times; he was wounded and
during the outbreak of the comuneros, . taken prisoner, yet threw back to his
and was rewarded by a motto, “ Ab followers his sword, that its honour
Hercule et CiB38l'€ nobilitas, a se ipsa might remain unsullied; it was that
fidelitas.” The discovery of the New of Pizarro, and had been given to him
\Vorld raised Seville to a more than in reward of previous valour, and now
former splendour ; it became the mart is in the Armeria at Madrid, No. 1769:
ofthe golden colonies, and the residence Downie was afterwards made Ala-aide
of princely foreign merchants. Buona of the Alcazar, not Alcalde, as Col.
partc’s invasion and the subsequent Garwood, not the accurate Duke, notes
loss of the transatlantic possessions cast (Disp. June 11, 1809). The oflice of
her down from her palmy pride of Ale-aide is one of high honour; it is
place. The Junta risked the battle of the Moorish Kaid, Dux Arcis, the
Ocafia in despite of the Cassandra other a petty village magistrate: it is
warnings of the Duke, and were de almost the difference between the Con
feated; the conquerors then overran stable of the Tower, and a Tower con
Andalucia, and in a few days the heroic stable. Downie began life as a clerk
city surrendered (Feb. 2, 1810), with in the commissariat, and was a true
out even a show of fight. SoultAndaluz. The English entered Seville
then became its petty king, for he set amid the rapturous acclamations of
Joseph at defiance. “ Mercy,” says the inhabitants, thus delivered from
Schepeler, “ was erased from his orders Soult’s terrorism, scaflblds, and con
of the day :” here he levied gigantic fiscation.
contributions, and “ inexorably,” as he Seville, in 1823, was made the asylum
boasted, carried into efl'ect his Draco of the bragging Cortes, who halted here
decree of May 9, 1810, ordering “all in their flight from Madrid, and who
Spaniards taken in arms to be shot, again fled at the first approach of A11
without any form of trial ;" for this gouleme; but this capital of the ever
he himself was excluded from the law unwarlike Andalucians never held out
of nations by the Regency. Aug. 15. against any one except Espartero in
Well might Toreno (xvi.) exclaim, July, 1843. That siege lasted about
dtscribing the illegal execution -of Juan 9 days, and during 6 only were any
Manuel Lopez, Nov. 29, 1811 : “ Des bombs fired. Accordingly, less than
garra el corazon crudeza tan desa4n'a. 100 Sevillians were wounded, of whom
dada y barbara.”—Toreno (xx.) esti only 20 died: of the assailants only
mates the French plunder at six millions 29 were killed. Such was the eflioacy
sterling; and he gives the details; so of the attack and defence on a city
docs Schepeler 129). Soult‘snameis containing nearly 100,000 souls.
held at Seville in the same detestation as Seville, the marvel of Andalucia, can
Murat’s is at Madrid, and Sebastiaui’s be seen in less ‘than a week, but the
at Granada. These calculations do not invalid, artist, and antiquarian may
include the stolen pictures; Soult as employ some weeks there with plea.
ked the dealer, Mr. Buchanan, 100,000 sure and profit. The best time to
napoleons for the Murillos alone. visit this town is in the spring, be
As Moore at Sahagun had once before fore the great heats commence, or in
saved the Andalucians, now the Duke autumn, before the November rains
at Sala-manca, delivered them again, a set in. The winter is occasionally
litt-le fact entirely omitted by Madoz very wet; ice and snow, however, are
(xiv. 429), and Soult fled from Seville almost unknown, except for eating,
Aug. 27, 1813, closely followed by Col. when brought as luxuries from the
Skerrett_ Sir John Downie, when his mountains of the Sierra Morena: the
Spanish legion of Loyal Estremenians lower part of the town, near the Ala
would not fight, joined the English, meda Vwja, is often flooded by the
who would, and charged the bridge river inundations, but the streets are
Iv
Andalucia. ROUTE 7.——SEVlLLE—-FESTIVALS. 141

provided with malecones or hatches, being put out of their way: from not
which are then shut down and keep being overdrugged with amusements
out the water. The summer is so very all tasted, nought en_joyed—they are
hot, that it is ahnost impossible to face not liable to bore, which haunts the
the sun, which, with every precaution, most mis-named, most ennuyéd people
can with difliculty be reduced to 84° on earth, our gay world: pleasure to
Fahr. in-doors. However, the town is them is an exception, and is enjoyed
never more healthy than during these with the rapture of children. They
great heats. Then the inhabitants plunge at one bound from habitual
keep still in their cool houses until gravity into boisterous _joy——du sublime
the evening; but this confinement au ridicule. This alternation of sloth
is against the curious sight-seeing and violent exercise-——'inedia et labor
stranger. Seville is one of the most (Just. xliv. 2)—was one of the marked
agreeable towns in Spain for a length features of the Iberian character, as it
ened residence, except in the dog-days. also is of Asiatic nations. To be dri
It is near Cadiz and Gibraltar, and of ven about and abroad, in a thirst for
easy access to the Englishman. The public amusements, is the desperate re
shooting to the rt. of the G-uadalquivir source of the higher states of wealth,
is good and novel; the theatres are luxury, and civilisation.
tolerable; the masquerading at car The city itself lies on the 1. bank of
nival-time entertaining; the dances, the Guadalquivir, which flows along
both those of the stage and the gip the arc of its irregular, ahnost circular
sies, are truly national and Qriental. shape; the circumference is about 5 m. 1
The fairs of Mairena and Italica (the it is enclosed in Moorish walls of con
latter now the fashion) exhibit the creteortapia, which, towards the Puerta
.M'a_jo and Maja glittering in their de Cordova, are some of the most per
native sun, shorn, indeed, of former fect in Spain, and are provided with
glory, by the fatal invasion of calico 66 towers and 15 gates. Seville is the
and civilisation, the worst foes to bar see of an archbishop, having for suffra
baric splendour and costume. Seville gans Cadiz, Malaga, Ceuta, the Canary
is the ahna mater of the bull-fight, Islands, and Teneriife. It was ‘once
and the best animals and masters of one of the most levitical cities of Spain,
the art are furnished from Bsetica. and contained 140 wealthy convents
The religious functions are unrivalled, and churches. It is the residence of a
especially in the Holy Week——Corpus, captain-general, of an audiencia, whose
St. John’s Day—Christmas, with its chief judge is called el Regente; it con
Nacimientas, carols, and shepherd tains 28 parishes and 10 suburbs of
dances—and the winter Rosarios. The arrabales, of which Triana, on the
ceremonial of the Semana Santa is opposite bank, is like the T1-astevere of
second in interest to that of Rome Rome, and the abode of picturesque
alone, and is in many respects quite gipsies and smugglers, and where the
peculiar, such as in the Pesos, or artist leaves his heart. Seville has the
painted and graven images, which are usual provincial civil and military esta
carried through the streets in solemn blishments of all kinds, such as bar
procession; then also the monumento, racks, prisons, hospitals, and so forth,
or sepulchre, in which the host is which do not deserve much notice of
buried, is lighted up in the cathedral, foreigners, who manage all these things
and forms a splendid sight, which must so much better. But Spain is not the
be seen to be really understood. place for political economists, lovers
These form alarge item of the scanty of statistics, poor-laws, and drainage;
and moderate amusements of the bulk suaves res. Seville possesses a Royal
of Sevillians. Their life is very Orien Alcazar, aPlaza de Toros, 2 theatres, a
tal ; they delight in cool repose and the liceo, public library and museum, a uni
cigar. They hate bustle, exertion, or versity, and beautiful walks: it glories
I 2
172 ROUTE SEVlLLE—ANTlQUlTll-LS. Sect. II.

in the titular epithets of muy Zeal y subgrundaria, or underground tombs


noble, to which Ferd. VII. added may for infants, whose bodies were never
heroica, and Sefior Lopez, in 1843, “ in burnt on funeral piles; they were dis
victa,” after the repulse of Espartero. covered in 1298 and shut up, because
All this would seem ironical to those thought to be the schools where the
who do not know Spaniards and their Moors taught magic ; they can be now
system of concealing disgrace by grant- ‘ descended into, and are curious. In the
ing
leasthonours
deserved.
in proportion
Seville, fit ascapital of; C'e. de la Cuna, No.8, was accidentally
they are
discovered a subterraneous Roman
the “ maxime imbelles Turdetani,” has ' aqueduct, which still flows full of fresh
always been the first to brag and then water, although its existence is abso
surrender: it has never successfully lutely unknown to the majority of Se
resisted any one, except their Duke ;villians, and no steps have ever been
of Victory! The population exceeds 1 taken to trace or recover this precious
100,000. Madoz makes it 119,600. supply. In the Casa de Pilatos are
The city was purely Moorish, ‘as the some mutilated antiques, ofthe second
Moslem, during a possession of 5 cen rate merit of such sculpture as is
turies, entirely rebuilt it, using the usually found in Spain. In the Museo
Roman buildings as materials. The are heaped up, as in a st0nemason's
climate is so dry and conservative that yard, a few antiquities of a low art,
the best houses are still those erected found in some road-making and acci
by the Moors, or on their models, and dental excavation at Italica. Don Juan
most charming and unique they are, Wetherell, Plaza San Bartolomé, No.
and perfectly suited to the climate: 16, has a collection of Roman and
narrow tortuous streets which keep out Mexican antiquities: the latter were
the sun, and wide spacious mansions formed in S. America by ajudge named.
with cool courts and gardens : now the Gonzalez Carvajal. A catalogue, with
Baker Streets of civilisation are all the lithographic prints, was published by
rage; and stuffy small houses with Mr. W. at Seville in 1842.
staircases, and broad streets, in which Seville is, however, a museum of
mortals are roasted alive, prove how Moorish antiquities, and one of the best
wise the Moors were. Of Roman re places to observe the Arabic ceilings and
mains there are, consequently, scarcely marqueterie woodwork, artesonados y
any. The Sevillians pretend that the ata/raceas; the stucco panelling, Ara
walls and the Torre del Oro were built bice Turkish, the lienzos de Almizates,
by Juhus Caesar, which is sheer non Almocarbes, Ajaracas ; notice also the
sense, as they are incontestably Moor elegant window divided by a marble
ish, both in form and construction. shaft, Aj-imes, an Arabic term, meaning
The Roman city was very small: it an opening which lets in the sunbeam;
extended from the Puerta. de Garne, beautiful specimens exist in the Al
through the Plaza San Nicolas and cazar, Calle Pajaritos, No. 15, Casa
San Salvador, to the Puerta de Triana. Prieto, Ce. Naranjos, and Casa Mon
In the Calle de los Mar-moles exists tijo, behind the Parroquia of Omnium
the portico of a Roman temple; 3 Sanctorum. A vast number of Moor
pillars remain built into the Moorish 1
ish houses exist, although sadly de
houses, with their shafts deeply buried
graded by adaptations to modern wants
by the accumulated rubbish. In the and usages. The streets are narrow—
Alameda Vieja are 2 Roman pillars, a wise provision—in order to keep
moved there in 1574 by the Conde de them shady during the heat——now the
Baraja-s, the great repairing and build mania is to widen them : the exteriors
ing governor of his day, who put them are plain, and windows looking to the
there in imitation of the Piazza de Sig streets were hardly known before the
nori at Venice. In the Calle Abades, time of Charles V. They are still bar
No. 22, are some well-preserved Roman ricaded with rqjaa, or iron gratings,
Andalucia. nourn 7.~'—sEvn.1.E—-AzULaJos. 173
and protected in summer by an estera-, harlequinades, combining colour and
or matting, thus forming a favourite al pattern. These enamelled tiles, un
fresco boudoir for the fair sex. These _doubtedly, were the types of the Ma
shutterless windows form the evening jolica of Italy, which passed from
rendezvous to the cloaked lover who Valencia to Majorca (Majolica), and
whispers soft nothings to his bar-im thence to Pisa and Pesaro.
prisoned sweetheart; hence he is said The best Azulejo specimens in Se
to live on iron, comer hierro ,- another ville, are the Dados in the Patio of the
term for this popular recreation is pelar Alcazur, of which some are Moorish,
la pava “to pluck the turkey.” The othersareof thetimeof DonPedr0,while
houses generally have an entrance those in the chapel were made in 1504.
porch, cl Zaguan (Arabicé sahan), Next in date comes the most curious
which leads to the cancel, or open portal ofLas Monjas de Sa. Paula; then
worked iron gate; the interiors are the dados in the Casa Pilatos, and after
built with an open square courtyard, that the summer-house in the Alcazar
patio, on each side of which are corre garden, 154-6; of the same period are
dores supported by marble pillars; a the Berruguete dados in the Alcazar
fuente or fountain plays in the middle; library. Those at San Augustin were
this court is covered over in summer designed in 1611, when yellows were
with an awning, velo, toldo, and be all the fashion; soon after the custom
comes the drawing-room of the in of representing monks and sacred sub
mates, who, during the summer, oc jects became very prevalent. See, for
cupy the cool ground-floor, and migrate examples, the facade of the church to
to the warmer upper one in winter. the rt. outside the Puerta del Popolo,
These houses are rich in Moorish and those in blue at the Caridad, after
earthenware tilings, which are still designs of Murillo.
called azulejos. This word, like azul, More than half Seville is Moorish,
is derived from the Arabic, but from a but we shall only select the cream;
different root. The latter is derived and first, visit the cathedral tower,
from lazurad, the lapis lazuli; the the GIRALDA, so called from the
former from Zuletja, Zuleich, a var vane, que gira, which turns round.
nished tile. Lazurad, indeed, strictly Of this beautiful belfry, and unique
speaking, was borrowed from the Per in Europe, much error has been dis
sian ; the Arabic word blue being seminated. It was built in 1196 by
azrag usriik, is blue black, whence our Abu Jusuf Yacub, who added it to the
Blue Beard; the feminine is zu/rlca, mosque which his illustrious father,
whence the Spanish zarco, which is of the same name, had erected. Ac
only applied to light blue eyes. Most cording to Zufiiga (i. 3), the founda
names of colours in the Spanish are tions were composed of destroyed Ro
derived from Arabic words, such as man and Christian statuary: the
Alba;/alde, Carmesi, Gualdo, Azultur Moors attached such veneration to this
qui, Ruano, Alazan. The Moor was theJllueddin tower, that before the capitu
lation they wished to destroy it, but
real chemist and decorator, from whom
the rude Gotho-Spaniard learned his were prevented by the threat of Alonso
arts and the words to express them. e1 Sabio of sacking the city if they did.
The use of the Azulqjo is very ancient “Abu Jusuf Yaeub was the great
and Oriental. The sapphire and blue builder of his age (See also Conde, eh.
were always the favourite tints (Exod. 419) ; he caused a. bridge of boats to be
xxiv. 10 ; Isa. liv. 11). The substance thrown across the Guadalquivir on the
is composed of a red clay, the surface 11th of October, an. 1171. He built
of which is highly glazed in enamelled also a portion of the exterior walls,
colours. The material is cool, clean, and erected wharfs along the banks of
and no vermin can lodge in it. The‘ the river. Ho repaired the Roman
Moors formed with it most ingenious , aqueduct, now known as the Oafios do
174 ROUTE 7.-—SEV1.LLE—THE GIRALDA. Sect. II.

Carmona. He raised the great Mosque 1 the period. Thus the Asinelli tower
of Seville, which was similar in design of Bologna, 371 feet high, was raised
and execution to the celebrated Me:-‘ in 1109, and that of St. Mark, at Ve
quitrl at Cordova; begun in Oct., 4.1). nice, 35O feet high, in 1148.
1171, it was completed by his son and The original Moorish tower was only
successor, Abii Yfisuf Yakfib, who, in 250 ft. high, the additional 100 being
the year of the Hejira, 593 (A.D. 1196), the rich filigree belfiy, was most hap
added the tower, the work of J ztber, pily added, in 1568, by Fernando Ruiz,
whom the Spanish authors call Gever, and is elegant and attractive beyond
and who, from the coincidence of his description. It is girdled with a motto
name, has been reputed, though most from the Proverbs (xviii. 10) ; Nomen
erroneously, to have been the inventor Domini fortissima turris. On grand
of algebra? This tower, like the lco0t festivals it is lighted up at night, and
sabea of Morocco, and the smaller and then seems to hang like a brilliant
unfinished one of Rabat, also the works chandelier from the dark vault of
of the same architect, was, probably, heaven. The pretty form and idea was
erected for the double purpose of call taken from the silver Custodias of the
ing the faithful to prayer, and for as period. This “ star-y-pointing tower”
tronomical observations. On the sum 1 forms the emphatic feature of Seville ;
mit were placed four brazen balls (Man seen from afar it rises like the mast of
zanas, apples), so large, we are in a mighty ship. It is a square of 50 ft.
formed, that, in order to get them into ; The Moorish aja/racas, or sunk pat
the building, it was necessary to remove ‘ terns, difl'er on each side. Observe
the key-stone of a door, called ‘The the elegant intersecting arches, so com
Gate of the Muezzins,’ leading from the mon in the Norman-Saracenic of Apn
mosque to the interior of the tower: lia. The upper niches were painted in
that the iron bar which supported them \ fresco by Luis de Vargas, 1538-58 ;
weighed about ten cwt., and that the but the work is ahnost obliterated,
whole was cast b a celebrated alche while the subjects lower down have
mist, a native 0 Sicily, named Abii been repainted and spoilt. The ascent
Leyth, at the cost of 50,0001. sterling. ; is by easy ramps. The panorama is
And it is a curious fact, showing the mi l superb, but the clock, made by a Fran
nute accuracy of the writer from whom I is ciscan monk, one Jose Cordero, 1764,
here considered the grandest marvel:
we quote these particulars, that when, ‘
during the earthquake in 1395, 157 it replaced the first ever put up in Spain
years after the overthrow of the Moor A. D. 1400. The pinnacle is crowned
ish power, these balls, together with with El Giramlillo, a female figure in
the iron support, were thrown down, bronze of La Fe, The Faith, a some
the latter was weighed, and the weight, what strange choice of a vane blown
as given by one of the historians of Se about with every wind (of doctrine), and
ville, is exactly the same as that stated of a sex and character for what should
by the Mohammedan writer.” Thus never vary or be fickle,* not, perhaps,
much our accurate friend G-ayangos, ill chosen by a church which veers as
who here, and for the first time, has best suits its own interest, twisting the
cleared away the slough of errors in scriptures at its will; and, as Dryden
which many have been engulphed, and says
threatens all those who copy what they “ Such airy faith will no foundation find,
find written in bad Spanish and worse The words a weathercuck to every wind.”
foreign guides. The figure is truly Italian, and was
To build towers was the fashion of . cast in 1568 by Bartolomé Morel. Al
_" Algebra is simply a contraction of the Ara
bic phrase Al-jebre, condensation, contraction, in " The Pagan Spaniard Seneca may be quoted.
contradistinctiou to AZ JlIok‘aba.la.h, comparison, Y
“ Quid
VvnloFamt!
quid lsviusl Fulmen-quid
Mulier—quid Mulierefulmine .' F“ml .
!—nihi|."
confrontation.
-~

Andalusia. ROUTE 7.—ssviL1.E—TH1-1 GLRALDA. 175

though 141 ft. high, and weighing 2800 is struck singly for its special pur
lbs.,it turns with the slightest breeze. It poses: La Gerda, for instance, at the
bears the Labaro, or banner of Constan Ave Mar-ia. A solemn peal is called
tine. This belfry is the home of a colony clamor de camprmas; and a requiem
of the twittering, careering hawk, the for a. dead pope or king, a tocando a‘
Falco linunculoides. The first Christian muerto.
knight who ascended the Giralda after The Giralda is under the especial
the conquest was Lorenzo Poro (Law patronage of the two Dime, the Santas
rence Poore), a Scotchnmn. His de Justina y Rufina, who are much revered
scendant, the Marques de Motilla, still at Seville, and not at all anywhere else.
owns the ancestral house in the Calle In a thunderstorm, 1504, they scared the
do la Cuua. A Scotch herald will do devil, who unloosed the winds to fight
well to look at the coats of arms in the against this church : this, their stand
Patio. ing miracle, is the one so often carved,
The Giralda was the great tower and painted by Murillo and others:
from whence the mueddin summoned and, due proportions considered, these
the faithful to prayers ; and here still young ladies must have been at least
hang his substitutes, the bells, for they 500 ft. high, and a tolerable match for
are almost treated as persons, being all the father of all lies. The Royal Aca
duly baptized, before suspended, with a demy of Seville, however, published in
peculiar oil, which is consecrated ex 1795 (!) a learned dissertation to prove
pressly during the holy week, and they the authenticity of this miracle. (1 !)
are christened after saints. The largest No wonder, therefore, in July, 1843,
is called Santa Maria, or La Gerda. whenEspartero bombarded Seville, that
When Spanish campanas are rung, the the people believed that the Giralda was
performance is called a repique, which still encompassed by invisible angels,
is totally unlike our sweet village bells, headed by these Brobdignac tutelars,
or impressive cathedral peal. In no who turned aside every shot. These
country was the original intention of ladies were the daughters of a potter in
bells, per caccia/re il diabolo, to scare Triana, a low suburb, in which coarse
away the devil, more piously fulfilled earthenware is still made. Morales
than in the Peninsula: all are doleful, has written their biography in 8vo.,
from the dull tinkle of the muleteer’s Perpiiian, 1598 ; and Florez, Esp. Sag.
cencerro, to the passing toll of the ix. 108, 375, gives the whole legend.
steeple. There is no attempt at me In the year 287 these gentlewomen in
lody in their repique, no chime, no sulted the paso of Venus Salambo, and
triple bob majors. The music is de were put to death. Now-a-days the Vir
void alike of ringer science, rural rus gen de los Dolores (Ceres Axfluz, of grief,
tic melody, or the solemn association of as lamenting the loss of her child Pro
sounds, the poetry of the steeple, the serpine) has superseded that idol; and
“ nighest bordering on heaven.” The were any of the modern potteresses of
campanas are headed with cross beams Triana, or tract-distributing Protest
of wood, almost of the same weight as ant spinsters, to insult the sagrada
the bells themselves, and are pulled at imagen of the Virgin in the pasos of
until they keep turning round and the Semana Santa, they would run a
round, head over heels, except when better chance of being sacrificed by
they are very large; then the clapper the mariolatrous Sevillanos than made
is agitated by a rope, d golpe de badajo. saintesses.
Any orchestral discipline and regularity Of the other Moorish minaret or
is not a thing of Oriental Spain; the mueddin towers, observe those of San
bells are all pulled their own way, like Marcos, Santa Marina, Santa Catalina,
a company of guerilleros, or a Dutch and Omnium Sanctorum. That of San
concert, where each performer plays Pedro has been modernized.
his own tune. Each bell, be it said, Below the Giralda is the Moorish
176 ROUTE 7.—-SEVILLE-—PATlQ DE LOS NARANJOS. Sect. II.

Patio de les Naranjos, the court of sition and prove that his discovery of
orange trees, with the original fountain, the New World was predicted in the
at which the cleanly Moslem oucc Scriptures. The fine set of the works
“performed” what polite writers call of Handel were given by Lord Wel
“ his ablutions,” so hateful to the ortho lesley, whose recreation (worthy son
dox Spaniard. Only two sides of “ this . of Lord Mornington, a musical sire)
court of the house of the Lord,” this was listening to the high mass in
=:-s/asvag, or “grove” remain. Enter it the cathedral. Above the book-shelves
at the N. by the rich Puerta del Per are hung portraits of archbishops,
dan, which was modernized in 1519 and the pictures themselves mark the
by Bartolomé Lopez. Observe the rise and decline of church power.
Moorish arch and original bronze The older, the Tello, Albornoz, Luna,
doors, but the belfry is modern. The Toledo, Fonseca, and Mendoza, are
terra eotta statues are by Miguel Flo men of master mind, who bore their
rentin, 1519-22. The “Saviour bear great commissions in their looks; the
ing his Cross” was by Luis de Vargas, latter, in their blue and white ribands
for it is ruined by repainting. This and periwigs, are mere stall-fed cour
subject, the Via Crucis, the Via Do tiers, or boudoir-frequenting Abbés.
lorosa of the Italians, is commonly The “cretinised” Bourbon Cardinal
called in Spain la calls de Amargura, Luis is the climax of the imbecile. Thus
the street of bitterness, from the agony the church has degenerated with the
endured by the Redeemer. state, art, and country. Observe also a
portrait of Fr°~ Bonifaz, a physician, by
“ The path of sorrow, and that path alone
Leads to the place where sorrow is unknown." Al°' Cano; and a San Fernando by
Murillo, not very fine. Inquire for the
This door suffered much, Aug. 7, 1839. sword of the great Count Fernando
Entering to the r. is the sagrario, or Gonzalez, and used by the hero of
parish church, and in front the Gothic Seville’s conquest, Garci Perez de Var
pile, and the Giralda rising like a mast gas, in cutting Moorish throats, as some
of the nave. To the l. is a stone pul verses shown with it detail ; read them.
pit, where San Vicente Ferrer, and The reader of Don Quixote and Spanish
other instigators of autos de fe, have ballads will of course remember Don
preached (see the inscription). In the Diego el Machuca, the pounder, so
l. corner a staircase leads to the chap called from hammering down the Moors.
ter library, La Columbina, so called This, the Oriental title of Judas l\Iac
because left to the canons and book cabaeus, was also given to Charles
worms by Fernando, the son of Colum Martel. By this hammer, who at Tours
bus. It was then, perhaps, the finest crushed the crescent, Europe was saved
in Europe, and destined by him to be a. to be Christian instead of Mahomedan ;
nucleus—-a. future Bodleian, but the and types of the chivalrous and of in
chapter grossly neglected their trusts, dividual pcrsonal prowess are dear to
although largely endowed. About 60 Spaniards and Asiatics.
years ago the tinew et blattaa were On the staircase observe the tomb of
dusted out, and what they had not Inigo Mendoza, 1497 ; and in the
dcstroyed,re-arranged. It still contains Guarto de los Subsidies, a Pietzi by
about 18,000 Volumes; among them in Juan Nufiez, one of the earliest of Se
quire for a damaged MS. ofthe founder’s villian painters: opposite the Puerta
travels, and for those books which con del Perdon, in the Sula de la Herman
tainnotes written by the great Columbus dad del Santisimo, is a “ Dispute of the
himself, e. g. in a Tractatus dc Imagine Sacrament,” by Herrera el Mozo (the
Mundi, Petri de Aliaco, his cabin com hermoso, “ the beautiful one” of- Mr.
panion during his eventful voyage ; also Inglis!) ; it is affected and indistinct.
look at the MS. tract drawn up by him The others are by Arteaga: observe a
when in prison, to satisfy the Inqui small infant Saviour, by Montafies.
Andalucia. ROUTE 7.——SEVILLE——THE LONJA. 177

A dark gate, where a horseshoe of the and feasts, and destined them to the
old mosque remains, leads into the in knife-stab. Some French ofiicers one
terior; here hangs what was the croco day were admiring the Giralda, when a
dile, or el Lagarto (whence our term majo replied, “y can todo eso, no se
alligator), sent to Alonso el Sabio, in hizé en Paris,” and yet it was not
1260, from the Soltan of Egypt, who made at Paris; and fortunately, from
requested the hand of his daughter: its size, it could not be “conveyed”
the Infanta declined a suitor whose away by the modem Verres.
first present scarcely indicated the Passing onward to the l. rise the
affectionate. Here are buried some of Moorish walls of the Alcazar, while to
los conquistadores, the conquerors of the rt. is the semicircular exterior of
Seville, e. _q., Pedro del Acero, 1265. the chapel of San Fernando, adorned
Before entering the cathedral, walk in the heraldic Berruguete style of
round the outside, which, with the ad Charles V.; next comes the Contaduria,
joining buildings, ofi'ers a most interest or chapter counting-house, pilastered
ing epitome of the rise, progress, and in the plateresque balustraded taste,
decline of Spanish church architecture : above which soars the sombre Gothic,
here are specimens of every style, from The S. entrance of the transept is un-.
the Moorish down to the modern and finished; in front is the noble Lonja,
academical; commence at the N. side : casa longa, the exchange, the long
observe the solid tapia, Moorish walls, room. This, although somewhat low,
the square buttresses, the bearded or is a fine specimen of the skill of Her
flame-fringed battlements. The ele rera, by whom it was designed, For
vated steps are called Las Gradas, the merly, the bill-brokers and gossipcrs
old English “ grees,” degrees. The desecrated the cathedral, until the
truncated pillars belonged to the Archbishop, Christobal de Rojas, in
mosque, and, previously, to Roman 1572 (the year after Gresham had
temples. This terrace was long the removed our money-changers from St.
exchange of Seville. Here, according Paul’s by providing them with the
to Navagiero (Viaggio 13), the mer Royal Exchange of London), petitioned
chants lounged, tutto il giorno, on this Philip II, to follow this example, even
il pit) bel ridutto de Seoiglia; so the of heretics, and erect a suitable casa
idlers and money-changers, from re de contratacizm, or house of contracts,
sorting to the cathedral of old London, for the growing commerce of Seville.
were called “ St. Paul’s Walkers.” But trusts in it were given to the un
Those who wish to see the outside of trusty, and regulations framed which
the cathedral before examining the in strangle commerce, in order to favour
side, will turn to the E., to the Arch the smuggler and the fraudulent. After
- In'shop’s Palace, a Churrigueresque pile, infinite difficulties Juan de Herrera con»
built in 1697. The staircase is hand cluded the edifice in 13 years, which was
some; the curious clerical cell, La Paropened for business Aug, 14, 1598,
ra, in which peccant priests once were Juan de Minjares was employed in
imprisoned, deserves notice: otherwise the construction. It is an isolated
the interior contains little worth men quadrangle, each side being some
tion, being meagrely furnished. Here 200 ft. wide by 63 ft. high to the ante
Soult, “Plunder-Master-General” of peaho. The stone came from the quar
the French, resided, when the walls ries of Martellila, near Xerez. The
were adorned with his precious collec pilasters and windows are not pleasing,
tion of Spanish pictures; fortunately but the Doric and Ionic Patio is mag
he could not “remove” the Giralda. nificent: ascending a marble staircase
It was on the plaza opposite that the with modern jasper ornaments and an
cloaked patriot Spaniards watched altarito of bad taste, to the upper floor,
those of their Afrancesado countrymen is el Archive do Zas Imiiae, the archives
who frequented theforeigners’ councils of S. America, which were arranged
1 3
uv
14 8 ROUTE 7-——SEVlLI.E—CATHEDRAL. . Sect. II.

here by Charles III. in 1784; the annexed to the eathedral, in which


necessary alterations have mined the many of the archbishops are buried.
proportions of the design of Herrera. This was commenced by Migiel de Zu
The papers were brought together from marraga in 1618, when architecture
the archives of Simancas, and put in ‘was on the decline, but not finished
order by Lara and Cean Bermudez; \ until 1662. The interior consists of a
they are stowed away in handsome single nave, the size of which has often
mahogany Doric bookcases, in docketed rendered doubtful the security of the ,
bundles, above 30,000 in number, which building. The roof, by Boija, is in bad
have never been fully investigated. taste, as are some jasper altars by the
Oflicial difliculties have been thrown notoriousChurrigueresque Barbas. The
in the way of the “barbarian” eye, Retablo raised by him was so absurd
eager to pry into the things and secrets that the chapter at last took it down
of Spain. Observe the marble pave and replaced it by a grand Reredos,
ment ; the inner corridor is modern which came from the Franciscan con
and paltry: the portrait of Columbus vent, and is known in books of art, as
is quite as apocryphal, and by no means that of the Capilla de los Vizcainos.
so fine, as that by Parmigianino at The sculptured Sa. Veronica and San
Naples. In an end room are some vile Clemente are by Pedro D. Cornejo; the
portraits of the ungainly Spanish sove Virgin with Christ, St. John, and the
reigns since Carlos III. The lower Magdalen, are by Pedro Roldan, and
story is appropriated to el eonsulado, very fine, although their efl'ect has been
the tribunal of commerce. The Lonja much injured by vile tinsel crowns and
was scarcely begun before real com glories ; by the same sculptor is the basso
merce departed; in the Plaza Sf". To relievo of the entrance into Jerusalem.
mas, just beyond, N0, 15, is said to be The door leading into the cathedral and
the barher’s shop of the immortal adorned with statues and Corinthian
Figaro ; every traveller who has music pillars is by Joseph de Arce, 1657.
in his soul should be shaved there, and The Cathedral itself is one of the
if any of his molars—muelas——are ex largest and finest in Spain: the solemn
tracted, let him especially take care of and grandiose or “ Grandeza," is its dis
them, as according to an old Spanish tinctive quality, as elegance is of Leon,
prejudice, at the Resurrection, all souls strength of Santiago, and wealth was
who in the flesh have lost their Wise of Toledo. The site is that of the suc
teeth, las dc Juicia, will come to earth cessive temples of Astarte, Salambo,
to hunt for them, Mahomet, and Maria. The original
The W. or grand facade of the Ca mosque, on whose peculiar oblong
thedral remained incomplete until quadrilateral form it is built, was
1827, when the modern and inferior erected by Abu Yusuf Jacob-Al-Mam
Work was commenced. Few Spanish sfir, 1163-1178, and remained unin
works of any kind are ever completed jured until 1480, when it was pulled
chiefly from want qffunds. Again a down, and this cathedral commenced,
fear of the evil eye induced the leaving which was opened for divine service
a little something wanting; and the in 1519. The chapter in their first
clergy, by keeping portions unfinished, conference determined to “construct
always had an excuse for begging eon a church such and so good that
tributions from the pious rich : observe it never should have its equal. Let
over the side doors the uaint figures posterity, when it admires it complete,
in terra eotta, by Lope ldarin, 1548 ; say that those who dared to devise
the contrast of expression in the severe such a work must have been mad.”
faces of the males, and the smirking There was method in such madness.
females, is remarkable. The name of the architect is not
The enormous over-ornate pile to known. His was no Deo erexit Vol
the 1. is the Sagrario, or parish-church taire vanity, he vvorked, with no thought
Andalucia, ROUTE 7.—SEVLLLE—CATHEDRAL. 179
of self, for the sole love and glory of G-od. Over this grave-stone, during the
The gigantic expense of the colossal holy week, is erected the monumento,
cathedrals, raised in days of poverty, an enormous wooden temple in form
contrasts with the paltry pew-pens of a Greek cross, in which the host is
contracted for in this age of capital; deposited. It was designed and exe
and how different are the benefactions! cuted in 1544, by Antonio Florentin,
Now the gift of half an acre from one and originally consisted only of three
who owns half a county, is trumpeted stories, terminated by a cross, but sub
forth as magnificent, and 201. is a do- ; sequent additions were made in 1624
nation from a sovereign. The old and 1688, which have injured the effect,
Spaniards trod in the steps of the and rendered the whole out of propor
early Romans, and reserved their tion for the cathedral, being some 130
splendour for the house of God. “ In ft. high. However, when lighted up
suppliciis Deorum magnifici, domi during the night of Thursday and Good
parci” (Sall. ‘B. C.’ ix.). The sacred Friday, after the host is enclosed in
edifice is inside and outside a. museum the silver custodia, the eifect is most
of fine_art ,in spite of foreign and marvellous,» and there are few things
native church spoliations. It preserves like itin Spain or Italy.
the Basilica form of the original mosque, The cathedral, is lighted by 93 win
and is an oblong square, some 431 ft. dows; the painted ones are among
long by 315 ft. wide ; it has 7 aisles— the finest in Spain: the earliest are
the two lateral are railed ofl' into by Micer Christobal Aleman, 1504.
chapels; the centre nave is magnifi Observe the “Ascensions,” the “ Mag
cent, the height amazing, being 145 ft., dalen,” a “Lazarus,” and an “Entry
while the 01'/mborio or transept dome into Jerusalem,” by Arnao de Flandres
rises 171 ft. ; the offices connected with and his brother, 1525; and the “ Re
the cathedral and chapter are built out surrection,” in the Capilla de los Don
side to the S.; the superb pavement, in celles, by Carlos de Bruges, 1558.
black and white chequered marble, was These artists were foreigners and Fle
finished in 1793, and cost the then mings, as their names denote. Ad
enormous sum of 155,304 dollars. vancing np the aisle, the grandeur of
On entering the cathedral, at the which is broken up by the ooro, observe
W. end of the centre aisle, lies buried its trascoro, a rich frontage of Doric
Fernando, son of Columbus, or Colon, work, with precious marbles. The
as Spaniards call him, and one who picture over the altar is extremely an
would have been _a great man had he cient. The poor “San Fernando” is
been son of a less great father. Observe by Pacheco, 1633. Two doors on each
the quaint caravels, or ships of the na side lead into the coro; the 4 bas
vigator; how small their size, for the reliefs were made at Genoa. Above
mighty journey over vasty and un rise the enormous organs; the palisa~
known seas! No Cunard line then: does of pipes and cumbrous ornaments
and the motto again how short, but are churrigueresque and inappropriate,
the greatness of the deed suflices: A but as instruments the deep-swelling
Castillo y a, Leon, mundo nuevo dio' tones are magnificent; that to the 1.,
Colon; read also the touching epitaph al lado de la Epistola, was made by
of his son. Many careless writers Jorge Bosch in 1792 : it is said to have
describe this as the tomb of Columbus 5300 pipes and 110 stops more than
himself, who died at Valladolid, and that of Haerlem.
whose bones at last rest in the Havana, Before entering the Cora observe its
while the ever inaccurate Chateau Respaldos and the cinque—cento capilla
briand observes, “ Christophe Colomb, de San Agustin, and the exquisite Vir
apres avoir découvert un monde, dort gin carved by Juan Martinez Montafies,
en paix a Seville, dans la Chapelle des the Phidias of Seville (ob. 1640). This
rois” (Congr. de Ver. 45). sweet and dignified model was the
180 norm: 7. —SEVILLE——CATHEDRAL. Sect. II.

favourite of his great pupil Al°' Cano. represent sacred subjects from the New
The tasteless chapter have disfigured and Old Testament and the life of the
her gentle serious dignity with vile Virgin. The Alfonsine tables, which
tinsel gewgaws, repugnant alike to good are usually placed on the altar, contain
taste as to the lowly character of the i the relics collected by Alonso el Sabio.
Lord‘s handmaid ; but the spirit of real The silver work and frontage of the
devotion, as well as that of superstitious altar, as also the atriles, are the work
idolatry, is quite irres pective of fine‘ of Fr°- Alfaro. The Respaldo del alta/r,
art: the most hideous fetish or the of richest Gothic, is by Gonzalo de
gaudiest doll is more worshiped than ‘Rojas, 1522; the terra-cotta figures
the finest M. Angelo, just as a true are by Miguel Florentine, 1523. Here
religious feeling purifies the coarse and in a small room are some curious pic
elevates the low, and generates a devo tures by Alejo Fernandez, in the half
tion altogether distinct from mundane gilded Byzantine style. They deserve
or critical admiration. notice, as Fernandez was the master of
Castillo, whose pupils were Cano and
The core is open to the high altar,
and is railed ofi' by a fine reja, the Murillo. Here hung the two superb
work of Sancho Munoz, 1519. The Murillos—t-he “Birth of the Virgin”
Silleria del Coro was carved by Nuiio and the “ Repose in Egypt,” which on
Sanchez, 14-75, Dancart, 1479, and M. Soult’s arrival were concealed by the
Guillen, 154-8. Of the 117 stalls ob chapter; a traitor informed him, and
serve the archiepiscopal throne in the he sent to beg them as a. present, hint
centre : the elegant facistol is by Bar ing that if refused he would take them
tolomé Morel, 1570. In the entre los by force (Toreno, xx.). The worthy
coros is put up during Easter week Marshal one day showing Col. Gurwood
the exquisite bronze candlestick, 25 his “ collection” at Paris, stopped op
feet high, called El Tenebrario, and posite a Murillo, and said, “ I very
wrought, in 1562, by the same Morel : much value that specimen, as it saved
when the miserere is sung in the holy the lives of two estimable persons.”
week, it is lighted with thirteen candles: An aide-de-camp whispered, “ He
twelve are put out one after another; threatened to have both shot on
indicating that the apostles deserted the spot unless they gave up the
Christ; one alone of white wax re picture.”
mains burning, and is a symbol of the Walking round the lateral chapels,
Virgin, true to the last. At Easter and beginning at the door of the Sa
also, the Cirio pasqual or “fount grario, is that de los Jacomes. Observe
candle,” which is equal to a large a Roelas, retouched by one Molina and
marble pillar, 24 feet high, and weigh quite spoilt. In the next chapel, la
ing 7 or 8 cwt. of wax, is placed to the de la. Visitacion, is a Retablo painted
1. of the high altar. Before ascending by Pedro Marmolejo de Villegas, born
the steps to it observe the two pulpits at Seville, 1520-1670, and an imitator
and the wja principal, made in 1518 by of the Florentine school. Observe the
the lay Dominican Fr°' de Salamanca: portrait of Diego de Roldan, who gave
those at the side are by Sancho Mufioz, this Retablo. In the Ca. de N.S. del
1518, and are first-rate specimens. Consuelo is a “ Holy Family,” the
The Gothic Retablo of the high altar, masterpiece ofAlonso Miguel de Tobar,
divided into 441 compartments, is un the best perhaps of Murillo’s pupils,
equalled in Spain in size and elaborate 1678-1758. Then, passing the grand
details; designed in 1482 by Dancart, V door, is the precious “ Angel de la
it was finished in 1550: it is said to Guarda,” the Genius natale Comes, a
be made of alerce (see Cordova), with guardian angel holding a sweet child,
which the plain of Tablada, near Se by Murillo : next, a fine “ Nativity,” by
ville, was covered in the time of the Luis de Vargas, who may be called the
Goths (Morgado, 96). The carvings Pierino del Vaga of Seville, 1502-1569.
-IO
Andalucia. norms 7.—sEv11.LE-cATni:DRAI.. 181

In Ca. de San Lam-eano, observe the justly therefore a quarto volume was
tutelar saint walking without his head : written on this Palladium of the city
in these miracles, c’est le premier pas by Antonio de Solis, Sevilla, 1739. The
qui co11te. Many Spanish female saints fine plateresque tomb of the “great”
spoke after decapitation——the ruling Cardinal Mendoza, erected in 1509, is
passion strong after death. So of old by Miguel Florentin; and, opposite,
Phil0mela’s tongue vibrated after it that of Archb. Luis de Salcedo, a feeble
was cut oif (Met. vi. 556). So says imitation, in 1741. The frescoes were
Lane (‘ Mod. Egyp.’ i. 300), a Moslem painted by Domingo Martinez. The
santon spoke without any head at all. marble statues in the‘Retabl0 are by
In Dante’s ‘11g"erno,’ xxviii. 121, a Pedro Duque Cornejo.
gentleman converses holding his own Now advance into the transept, and
head in his hand like a lantern. Ari look up at the Gothic balconies of the
osto’s Orrilo looks after his own head galleries. The mahogany clock is in
when cut 05', and very sensibly puts the worst French and modern taste.
it on again as if it had been his hat; To the rt. of the Puerta de la Lonja is
and Isabella, of the same romancer, the celebrated “La Generacion” ' of
murmurs out after death the name of Luis de Vargas. The breast of Eve
her loved Zurbino. was covered by the prudish chapter.
In the next chapel of Santa Ana is a This truly Italian picture, and the
Retablo of the date 1504, with very painter’s masterpiece, is also called
curious costumes, painted with all the“La Gamba,” from the leg of Adam
defects of Juan Valdes Leal, 1630 ex pede Herculem—which Mateo Perez
1691, the rival and foe of Murillo. A de Alesio is said to have said was
door now leads to the archives, which worth more than all his colossal “ Saint
are very perfect, as the chapter sent Christopher,” painted opposite in fresco
them to Cadiz, and they thus escaped in 1584, and which is 32 ft. high. San
being made into cartridges by M. Soult. Christobal—for thus he is half Chris
Adjoining is the Magordomia. N.B. tianised and Punicised-—was a Saracen
' Examine the splendid choral books. ferryman—portitor ipse Cha/ran. He
Returning to the cathedral in the Cu. is painted at the entrance of most
San Josef, observe a “Nativity,” by Spanish cathedrals, of colossal size,
Fr°‘ Antolinez, ob. 1676; and a mar that all may see him, because all who
riage of the Virgin by Valdes Leal; look on him cannot come on that day
and in the next, a statue of San Her to an evil death.* He carries the infant
menegildo, by Montafies ; and the Saviour, who holds the globe in his
magnificent tomb of the Archb. Juan hand, across a river. This Baal is the
de Cervantes, ob. 1453, the work of Coelifer Atlas, C71/ristqferos. Few Re
Lorenzo de Mercandante. In the Sa licarios in Spain are without one of his
cristizz de la Antigua are a few paint teeth, of which he must have had more
ings by Antolinez, el G-riego, Zurbaran, than a. crocodile and larger than an
Morales, and some flower-pieces, by elephant, for which some heretic na
Arellano, 1614-1776. The chapel it turalists have taken or mistaken the
self is one of the Sancta Sanctorum. molars. In the Ga. ale la Santa Cruz
Observe the marble Retablo; the silver is a “ Descent,” by Pedro Fernandez
railing, with the words “Ave Maria ;” de Guadalupe, 1527. Next enter the
and the ancient picture painted in the most elegant Sacristia de los Calices,
style of Cimabue, but more probably designed in 1530 by Diego de Riafio.
Byzantine: the sacristan will swear Observe the Crucifix by Montafies, the
that it is by St. Luke, and that it re Tintoret-like portrait of Contreras,
mained even in the Moorish mosque, painted in 1541 by L. de Vargas ; and
and of itself miraculously introduced the nun Dorothea, by Murillo, finished
San Ferdinand into Seville, opening the * Christopbori Sancti speciem quicunque tuetur
gates and shutting the sentinel‘s eyes ; Ista. nempe die non morte mala morietur.
182 ROUTE 7-—SEVlLLE—CATHEDR.AL. Sect. II.

in 1674; a “ Saviour,” by Roelas ; and melted for a royal donative in 1796—a


a fine “ St. Peter,” by Herrera el mild term for compulsory church ap
Viejo. The patronesses, Santas Ru- propriation and confiscation: observe
fina and Justina, were painted in 1817 especially the exquisite Tenebra/rio, and
by Goya: the fit models for this David the two full-length Murillos, painted in
like abomination were two notorious a bold style in 1655; that represent
frail ladies of Madrid named Ramona ing San Leandro was the portrait of
and Sabina. The picture was meant Alonso de Herrera, Apunhuior del
for a chapel, but was banished by the Cora, and that of San Isidoro of Juan
prudent bishop into this Sacrisiia. Lopez Talavan. The “ Descent ” from
Thus of old the mistresses of painters the cross, over the altar, is by Pedro
and great men were the models of the Campana, who, born at Brussels in
pictures of Venus; particularly Flora, 1503, and a pupil perhaps of Michael
the beloved of Pompey; and Campaspe, Angelo, was one of the first to intro
the beloved of Alexander; while Phryne duce theltalian style; and this, painted
was the model of both Apelles and in 1548, and considered by some his
Praxiteles (Athmn. 591). Arellius finest work, became the marvel and
(Plin. Nat. Hist. xxxv. 10) was re model of Seville, because new in style
markable for painting goddesses from to their eyes: now it seems somewhat
improper models. dark and hard; but such, when it was
The architecture of this Sacrisiia is first exhibited, was its life-like awful
in the transition style, when the Gothic character, that Pacheco (Arte 57) was
was giving place to the Graaco-Romano afraid to remain after dusk alone ; and
and plateresque. Here lie some of the before it Murillo used to stand, watch
Conquistadores de Seville. Observe the ing, as he said, until those holy men
marble tables and pavement. In the should have finished taking down the
next chapel are four tombs of armed Saviour, and before this picture he de
knights and ladies. Enter the ante-sala sired to be buried; it then decorated
of the Sacristia mayor; observe the the altar of his parish church, La
trunk-like roof and the cardinal virtues Santa Cruz. Sou1t’s vandals levelled
in niches. In the Sacristia, observe that Holy Cross down to the dust, and
the plateresque carved door, and the cast out the ashes of Murillo to the
a4-marios, or plate-chests, by Pedro winds; they then broke the picture
Duque Cornejo, 1677-1757, pupil of into five pieces, which was left so, until
Roldan. The Sacristia mayor, the tri the English drove them out of Seville;
umph of the rich plateresque, was built then the chapteremployedJoaehin Cor
by Diego de Riaiio, 1530. The dresses tes, who was occupied for three months
of the clergy are kept in new presses, in the restoration.
made in 1819 by order of a barbarian Underneath it are kept the usual
Canon, named Santos, who destroyed assortment of authentic bones and
the glorious old ones of Gruillen, 1548, relics, bits of the cross, crown of thorns,
a few of whose Michael Angelesque the Virgin’s shift, &c.: observe the
panels are let into the modern wood identical keys presented to St. Ferdi
work. Observe thc colossal silver Cus nand when Seville surrendered: that
todia, finished in 1587, by Juan d’Arfe, given by the Jews is of iron gilt, and
the Cellini of Spain. This masterpiece the letters on the wards represent “ Me
was unfortunately “beautified and re lech hammelakim giphthohh Melek kel
paired” in 1668, by Juan de Segura, haaretz gabo,”—the King of kings will
during the Immaculate Conception open, the king of all the earth will
mania, who placed the Virgin in the enter; translated by Spaniards Dion
position of the original figure of Faith. abrira y rey entrard; the other key
The inscription is by the painter-author of silver gilt was given by Axataf, and
Pacheco. Another Oustodia, which is inscribed in Arabic, “May Allah
weighed above a cwt. of pure gold, was render eternal the dominion of Islam in
Andalucia. noun: 7-—SEVILLE——CATHEDRAL. 183
this city ;” these indeed are real relics. tina,” by Pablo de Cespedes; here are
The tesoro or treasury lies in a court to kept the chapter accounts.
the rt. It has been sadly thinned by The first chapel on the E. end, called
foreign and native spoilers ; yet there is de la “ Concepcion grande,” is in de
a goodly sideboard of church plate and generate cinque-ccnto 1 here lies buried
some very fine silver oil vases, candle Gonzalo Nunez de Sepulveda, who, in
sticks, &c. : observe the tablets called 1654, richly endowed the September
Las Alfoneimu, studded with Marian “ Octave ” in honour of the “ Immacu
relics, and a fine cross made in 1580 by late Concepcion.” The ashes of the
Fr°' Merino : see also a golden incem-a conquistadores of Seville were carted
rio, and a cross made from a “ nugget ” out to make room for this benefactor.
of the new world, offered by Columbus. Observe the pictures treating of that
The Retablo of the Ca. del Mariacal mystery; the large crucifix has been
contains some of the latest and finest attributed to Alonso Cano. At this
works of Campana, and shows how Octave and at Corpus, the Quiristers
much he improved aft-er seeing the or Sei-sea (formerly they were six in
elegant L. do Vargas. Notice also an number) dance before the high altar
excellent Purification of the Virgin, with castanets and with plumed hats
and some portraits of the founder’s on their heads : dressed as pages of the
family. In the Ante- Uabildo are some time of Philip III., they wear red and
marble pilasters, statues, and medal white for Corpus, blue and white for
lions made at Genoa, with inscriptions the festivals of the Virgin, who, bodily
by Fr°' Pacheco: in a little court-yard and verily, so says the Sacristan, ap
is an inscribed Gothic stone relating to peared in those colours to Santa Bri
Bishop Honoratus, successor to San gida. These dances were the ancient
Isidoro, 4.1). 641. . Epq/.|).um, the grave-measured minuet;
The Sala Caqritular, or chapter thus David praised the Lord with a
house, is another of Riafio’s exquisite song and the dance. These must not
plateresque saloons, and easier to be be confounded with the K» ME, the jig,
described with the pencil than pen, and those motus Ionicos o the daugh
built in 1530, it is elliptical, 50 ft. long ter of Herodias ; but nothing has suf
by 3-t ft. : observe the marble pave fered more de tion than the dance.
ment, worked to correspond with the The Capilla Real is almost a church
elaborate ceiling. The beautiful “ Con by itself, with its regular stall‘ of
cepcion " is by Murillo; “St. Ferdi clergy. Built in 1541 by Martin de
nand ” is by Pacheco ; the “ Four Vir Gainza, it is artistically infe 'or to the
tues, with Shields and Children,” are saloons of Riafio, for the p teresque
by Pablo de Cespedes, the learned was then going out of fashion; 81 ft.
painter-poet of “ Cordoba,” 1538, 1608, long, 59 wide, 130 high, it is entered un
and retouched by Murillo in 1667. der a lofty arch. The statues of the
The 16 marble medallions were made apostles and evangelists were sculp
at _Genoa ; the eight ovals between the tured by Lorenzo del Vao and Campos
windows are painted by Murillo. In the in 1553, from designs by Campuna.
Sala Capitular de abajo are full-length The Reja is of the bad period of Carlos
royal portraits from Alonso III. down III.: here are the tombs of Alonso el
to Charles V. Observe the cinque—cento Sabio and Queen Beatrix, and medal
cornice, the medallions, the pavement lions of Garci Perez and Diego Perez
with the No Do device of Seville. Re do Vargas. The Retablo by Luis Ortiz,
turning through the Ca. del Marisal, to 1647, is in vile taste : over the altar is
the Contaduria Mayor, is a “ St. Ferplaced the Virgen de lo; Reyes, a mi
dinand,” by Murillo, a “ Sacrifice ofraculous image given to St. Ferdinand
Abraham,” in which the Isaac is evi by his cousin St. Louis of France. St.
dently taken from one of the sons of‘ Ferdinand, who died May 31, 1252,
the Laocoon, and a “ Rufina and Jus lies before it stretched out in a silver
184 ROUTE 7.—SEVlLLE—CATHEDR.AL. Sect. II.

and glazed Urna, made in 1729: the contains the Pila or font, with the Gi
body nearly perfect, is displayed on ralda windows, painted in 1685. Here
May 30, Aug. 22, Nov. 23, and none is the large and much-admired paint
should fail to attend the most striking ing, the “San Antonio ” of Murillo:
military mass, when troops are marched the infant Saviour attended by cherubs
in and the colours lowered to the con visits the kneeling monk; unfortu
queror of Seville: observe the original nately, in 1833, it was cruelly re
sepulchre of the king, on which the touched, and bailado, or daubed over,
U-ma is placed, with epitaphs in Latin by Gutierrez, an operation we saw per
and Spanish to the 1-t., and in Hebrew formed and vainly protested against.
and Arabic to the l., with orles This once noble work was painted in
of castles and lions ; the epitaphs 1656 in Murillo’s best period. Mons.
were composed by his son, Alonso el‘ Viardot (Etudes, 429) and the stupid
Sabio. Florez has published a quarto verger tell an idle tale that “Our
explication of them, Elogios del Sou, Duke” coveted the picture, and ofi'ered
Reg, Mad. 1754. The Banner of Spain to cover this gigantic canvas with
and the sword of St. Ferdinand are ounces of gold, but that the chapter
kept in this chapel, the sword saved declined. “L’Angleterre a gardé son
from Soult by a chaplain, used to be or, et Séville le chef-d’oeuvre de son
taken out on all grand war expedi peint1e—gloire s Séville.” Supposing
tions; and on his saint’s day it is ex that this were his chef-d’ceuvre, which
hibited, and a sermon, el de la es-pada, it is not, and supposing the Duke
is preached, in which its virtues are oifered his cash, which he did not,
expounded. In this chapel also is surely English gold is no worse than
buried the gentle and beautiful Maria French iron. It is, however, quite
dc Padilla, the mistress of Pedro el common in Spain, when the value of
Cruel, and the Minister Florida Blanca. anything is wished to be enhanced, to
The Retablo in the Ca. de San Pe say, “An Englishman bid so and so
ri/ro, in the Herrera style, contains pic for it.” This at least is a compliment
tures by Fr°' Zurbaran, 1598-1662: to our honesty ; we do not rob, but are
observe the lock of the grating “ Cer willing to pay for what we have the
rqio de la Rqja,” made by Cordero, taste to admire. No offer of cash by
but this corner of the cathedral is too M. Soult is ever cited, he found steel
dark to see anything well; in the north and stealing cheaper. This picture
transept is a charming “Na. Sa. de disappointed Wilkie, and, to our mind,
Belem,” or a delicious “Virgin and has always been overrated: but as it is
Child,” by Alonso Cano. In the Ca. the fashion to praise it, the cuckoo note
de San Francisco is the “Assumption is repeated.
of the Tutelar,” one of the best works This cathedral should be visited at
of the presumptuous Herrera el Mozo. different times of the day and evening,
The window, painted in 1556, is re in order to fully estimate the artistical
markable. In the Ca. de Santiago is changes and eifects of light and shade.
a picture of that patron of the Spains, The interior is somewhat dark, but it
riding over Moors, with miraculous is a gorgeous gloom, inspiring a reli
energy, by Juan de las Roelas (1558 gious sentiment, chastening, not chill
1625). The painted window, the “ Gon ing, solemn, not sad. The contrast
version of St. Paul,” 1560‘, is full with all out of doors is striking; and,
of the richest reds and blues; the after the glare, heat, noise, and crowds,
“ San Lorenzo” is by Valdes. Observe the still, subdued, cool quiet soothes
the tomb of Archb. Vargas, ob. 1362, body and soul. The sun, about two
era 1400; and in the next chapel, o’cloc_k, falls on the Holy Rood over the
that of Baltazar del Rio, Bishop of Retablo, and produces a splendid effect.
Scalas, 1518, a friend of Leo X; The The cathedral is always thronged, not
arch is Italian work; the la-st chapel only by the devout, but by idlers, beg
Andalucia. ROUTE 7.—SEV1LLE—-ALCAZAR. 185

gars, and sinners. The sexes are not‘ Moors of Granada, desirous of adopt
allowed to walk about or talk together ; i ing that style, employed Moorish
the ancient Silentiarii, in the form of, workmen. Observe the delicate ara
celadores, and periigueros, beadles, and besques, the pillar-divided windows,
vergers, keep guard, and papal excom ajimezes, and the carved sofltit. The
munications are suspended in ter quaint Gothic inscription almost looks
rorem ,- nor are women allowed to like Cufic; it runs thus; “El muy
enter after Qraciones, when the shades alto, y muy noble, y muy poderoso,
of evening come on, and the pretext of y conquistador Don Pedro, por la
“ going to church” reminds the scholar gracia de Dios, Rey de Castilla y de
of Ovid (Art. Am. i. 8. 74, and iii. Leon, mando facer estos alcazares y
638), who teaches women to make the estas facadas que fue hecho en la era
pretence of going to the mass of Isis an mil quatro cientos y dos,” that is, 4.1).
excuse to meet their lovers. It was 1364.
not prudent even to ask what took The royal residenee-—AZcasar—al
place before her Retablo (Am. 2, Kasr, the house of Caesar, whose name
25). Juvenal (ii. 6, 487) uses the strong is synonymous with majesty, occupies
expression, Isiacaz Sam-aria Leena; J the site of that of the Roman praetor;
And the cathedral of mariolatrous it was rebuilt in the 10th and 11th
Seville is a chosen rendezvous ; lovers centuries, by Jalubi, a Toledan archi
care little for the presence of the Ima tect, for Prince Abdu-r-rahman An
genes Sa_qrada.s-—they are, say they, San na’ssir Lidin-Allah [the defender of the
tos muy callados, and never tell tales. religion of God].
These evils are, however, easily It has been often and much altered
avoided. Not so another nuisance, by Ferdinand and Isabella, and Charles
common to this and most churches in V., and Frenchified by Philip V., who
Spain, the beggar tribe, who, like mos subdivided the noble soloons with
quitos, smell the blood of an English paltry lath and plaster tabique. Don
man ; remember, therefore, the specific Pedro began by repairing the whole of
phrase, Perdona Vmd. por Dias, Her the western side, and his painted ceil
mano ! My brother, will your worship ings still remain, as the badge of his
excuse me, for God’s sake! The beggar Banda evinces. Isabella erected the
bows—he knows that all further appli pretty chapel up-stairs, with the very
cation is useless; the eifeet is certain interesting Azulejo ornaments. Charles
if the words be quietly and gravely V. was here married to Isabella of Por
pronounced. tugal, and, being of chilly habits, put
Now visit the Alcazar; but first ob up the fire-places in the second-floor
serve a singular Moorish skew-arch, to the E. He also repaired the stucco
in a narrow street leading to the Zienzos of the grand patio. Philip II.
Puerta de Xerez, which proves that introduced the portraits into the hall of
the Moors knew its use at least eight ambassadors; Philip III., in 1610, built
centuries ago. The Alcazar is entered the armoury, and Philip V., in 1733,
by two gates, either by that de las Ban raised the pillared Apeadero .- here he
deras, where the colours are hoisted resided in morbid seclusion for 2 years,
when the king is residing, or by that amusing himself with religious pen
de la Monteria, from whence he sallied ances and fishing in his pond. The
forth to the chace. The grand portal o_/icinas over the baths of Padilla were
is apparently Moorish, yet it was built erected by ‘Ferd. VI. This Alcazar
by Don Pedro the Cmcl, the great was barbarously whitewashed in 1813,
rest-orer of this palace. At this period when much of the delicate painting and
the elaborate Oriental decorations of gilding was obliterated; considerable
the Alhambra were just completed by and creditable restorations were begun
Yusuf I.; and Pedro, who was fre by Arjona in 1830, and carried on by
quently on the best terms with the the Infants. during her residence here.
186 ROUTE 7.—SEVILLE—ALCAZAR. Sect. II.

On entering, the columns in the to Mary of Scots’ ambassador, Mel


vestibule are Roman, with Gothic ville, and which the canny chiel wanted
capitals: these belonged to the original her to give to his mistress, and is the
palace. Don Pedro brought from Va identical gem which now adorns the
lencia many other pillars taken out of royal crown of England in the Tower.
the royal Aragonese residence, which he Fail not to visit the truly Arabian
destroyed. The grand Patio is superb, suite of rooms fronting the garden, and
70 ft. by 54. It was modernised in then ascend to the second story, mo
1569. The stucco-work is by Fr° dernised by Charles V.: walk out on‘
Martinez. Many of the doors, ceilings, the terrace over the garden: visit Isa
and Azulejos are the genuine Moorish bella’s chapel, which lies to the N.W.;
ones; the oldest portion fronts the it is very small, 15 ft. by 12, but is
garden. Visit the pretty puppet Patio covered with cinque-cento Azulqjo, is
dc lax Mufiecas, and the adjoining sa quite Peruginesque, and perhaps is
loons, which have been restored. The the finest Christian specimen of this
hall of ambassadors has a glorious material in Spain. They were painted
Media narargja roof: but the Spanish in 1504 by Niculoso Francisco, an Ita
balconies and royal portraits mar the lian. See inscription on a label to l.
Moorish character; the baboon Bour Pass next along a corridor to the
bon heads, royal Cretins, are both an Cuarto del Principe. This truly Al,
insult and injury. Here the contempt hambraic room is placed over the en
ible Seville Junta sat until they ran trance vestibule. In a long saloon
after Ocafia. In the next room it is down-stairs were kept, or rather were
said that Don Pedro caused his brother, neglected, in heaps on the floors, those
El Maesire de Santiago, whom he had antiquities which chance discovered
invited as a guest, to be murdered. while a road was making at Italica,
Another anecdote of this Richard III. and which were not reburied, from the
of Spain deserves mention. Abu Said, accident of the Ale-aide Fr°- de Bruna
cl Beg Bermqjo, who had usurped the being a man of taste. The Alcazar was
throne of Ismael II. of Granada, fled also made by Soult his receiving-house
to Seville from the rightful heir, under general of stolen goods. When he fled
promise of safe conduct from Pedro, from Seville, after the Duke’s defeat
who received, feasted, and then put his 1 of Marmont at Salarnanca, more than
guest to death, in order to seize his 1000 pictures were left behind, such
treasure in jewels, under circumstances was his hurry.
of inhospitable and mocking cruelty; Now visit the cinque-cento gardens,
(see his Chronica, ch. 6). Gayangos laid out by Charles; they are among
found, in an Arabic MS. in the British the most curious in Europe. Observe
Museum, a contemporary account of the tank where Philip V. fished, and
the event. Among the gems is specified t-he vaulted Barios where Maria de
“ three huge rubies,” big as a pigeon’s Padilla, mistress of Pedro el Cruel,
egg——huevo de Paloma. One was a bathed, and which probably were ori
Koh-i-noor, to which Pedro attached ginally prisons. Maria ruled in this
such value that he specified it in his Alcazar, and so tamed her royal beast
will, as the “ Balaa: of the Red King.” that the vulgar attributed her influ
(Balari is a Persian Word for Granate, ence over Pedro to magic, but it was
and is taken, says Ducange, from the nothing but the natural and all-sulfi
name of a province, Balacia. The old cient charms, the wiichc-raj? of a fair
English term, as used by Dugdale, was and gentle woman. The gardens are
Ballace.) This particular gem was those of n Hesperus, “ not fabulous ;”
given by Pedro to our Black Prince‘ their levels vary, and the plots are
afiier the victory at Navarete. This is l
divided by orange-clad walls ; the
the “ fair ruby, great like a racket balmy air is perfumed by the asahar or
ball,” which Queen Elizabeth showed blossom and by the golden fruit. The
A n_dalucz'a. ROUTE SEVILLE-——MOORISH HOUSES. 187

compartments are arranged in quaint house was afterwards made a diligence


patterns cut in box and myrtles, such inn, and then a wine-store. How are
as the eagles and coats of arms of the mighty fallen in Spain, men and
Charles V., the precise work of the mansions!
Roman Topiarius ; and such were the The family house of the Taberas,
sunny gardens in which Martial’s Cadiz which all who read the charming drama
friend Cano loved to sit, inter tepentes of Sancho Ortiz de Roelas will visit, is
buxus (iii. 20, 12). Beware of certain in the Ce. de la Inquisicion Viqja. Here
hidden fountains in the walks, withis still shown the garden-door by which
which the unwary traveller will be Sancho el Bravo intended to carry ofl'
sprinkled. Visit the semi-Moorish azu- ‘ the beautiful Estrella de Sevilla. This
lejo-adorned Kiosk in the under gar house, in 1833, was tenanted by a
den ; ascend the rustic terrace to the N. Frenchman, who converted it into a
for the view. dyeing-factory; and when we were
Among the most remarkable houses there last, he was meditating trimming
in Seville visit the Cara O’Lea, 14, up the gardens d la mode de Paris ,
Calle Botica del Agua. It is a perfect next visit the Casa de Pilatos, so called
Moorish specimen ; the Spanish white because said to be built in imitation of
wash was picked oil’ the stucco by an that of Pontius Pilate at Jerusalem.
artist named Bejarano, long notorious The black cross in the Patio is the
for repainting and ruining old pictures. point from whence Las Estaciones, the
Alter that this house fell into the l stations to the Cruz del Campo, begin.
hands of a Frenchman, one M. Do Few Spanish cities are without these
minie, who destroyed the rich Arte stations, which generally lead to the
sonado ceiling, and put up a modern Calvario, a Golgotha, or hill with
flat one I and, what is worse, this crosses on it, and erected in memorial
fashion became the rage in Seville, and of the crucifixion. During Passion
has laid low many a relic of this class. Week these stations are visited; at
Soult had turned the rooni into a. stable. each of them a prayer is said allusive
In the adjoining Calle dc los Abades, to the separate sufferings of the Sa
No. 27, was a singular vaulted Moorish viour, which are carved, painted, or
saloon, recently modernised by a Goth. indicated at each. This palace was
In the same street, Casa Carasa, No.9, » built in 1533, by the great nobleman
is a superb specimen of the Arragonese of the day, Fadrique Enriquez de Ri
plateresque, erected in 1526 by canon bera, in commemoration of his having
Pinero ; visit it without fail, for the me performed the pilgrimage to Jerusalem
dallions are quite Raphaelesque. But ‘ in 1519. He was accompanied by the
whitewashing with the fatal Cal de Mo poet Juan de Encina, who published
ron, the bane of Seville, has much oblite their tour, Tribagia, Roma, 1521, also
rated the delicate outlines of this once at Seville, 4to., 1606, and reprinted at
fairy Patio. Go also to the Calls de lasMadrid, fol., 1748. The architecture
Duefias, a most Moorish palace of the proves how closely the Spaniards of
D. of Alba, and now, alas ! fast going or
i the 15th century imitated the Sara
gone to ruin ; here Lord Holland lived. cenic forms, and the influence their
It consisted once of 11 Patios, with 9 sensual civilization obtained over the
fountains, and more than 100 marble Gotho-Spaniard, who with increasing
pillars. Walk through its gardens andpower began to appreciate elegance
the forest orange-trees and myrtlcs. and luxury: all is now scandalously
On the Plaza del Duque is the palace neglected. The saloons of state are
of the great Guzman family, now cut whitewashed, and turned to base pur
up and divided into many minor resi poses ; the gardens are running wild;
dences. Here is the Casino, or club. the sculpture is tossed about as in
In the Casa Cantillana, Puerta de a stonemason's yard. Observe the
Xerez, Lord Wellesley resided. The Gothic balustrade over the entrance,
188 ROUTE 7.-—S EVlLl.E—MURll.L0,S HOUSE. Sect. II.
the grand Patio, with its fountains ‘mermaids, and women with musical
and injured Roman statues of Pallas, instruments. They have been attri
Ceres, and others. The Virgin’s chapel, buted by some to Murillo, which they
with a copy of the Servilleta of Mu certainly are not, and by others to L.
rillo, is adorned in the most gorgeous de Vargas, which is more probable.
Saracenic-Gothic style. Ascend the ~ This house was purchased for about
magnificent staircase to the chief suite ‘ 1200l. by Canon Cepero, when the
of rooms. Everything that stucco, Chapter, foreseeing the coming shadows
carving, Azulejo, and gilding could do, of state appropriation, sold olf‘ much of
was done. In the pleasant garden, visit 1 their disposable property; and, indeed,
the grotto of Susanna, and observe Cepero, subsequently the Dean, a man
marbles and sculpture, given to Perafan of great taste, was worthy to dwell in
de Ribcra by Pius V., cast like rubbish this house, over which such recollec
amid the weeds. A selection was re "tions hover. It was he who did so
moved to Madrid by a Duke de Medina much to rescue art at Seville during
Celi, to whom this deserted palace now the constitutional outbreaks; and if
belongs. his own collection contained many bad
The lovers of Prout-like bits must pictures, their quality was no fault of
visit the Jew’s quarters. Before their his, for where good ones are not to be
expulsion from Seville they lived in a, procured, which is “the ‘great fact”
separate “Jewry," or Ghetto, La Ju of Seville, there bad become the best.
l
deria, which resembled La II/Ioreria, El Corral del Conde, Calle Santiago,
where the Moriscoes dwelt, and is a' No. 14-, was abarrack of Washerwomen.
perfect labyrinth of picturesque lanes. What a scene for the pallet! what cos
In the Juderia is the house of Barto tume, balconies, draperies, colour, atti
lomé Esteban Murillo, a Sevillian by tude, grouping ! what a carrying of
birth, and the head of the Andalucian vases after the antique‘. what a clatter
school, for Velazquez more properly of female tongues, a barking of dogs,
belongs to Castile: it lies close to the a squalling of children — all living
city wall, the last to the rt. in a small _ Murillos-——assailed the impertinente
plaza at the end of the Callejuela del curiosol Alas! that every day there
Agua, or, in the new-fangled nomen is less washing.
clature, at the end of the Calle de Lope \ For plateresque architecture, the best
de Rueda, Plaza do Alfaro. The l specimen is La Casa del Ag/untamiento,
parish church, La Santa Cruz, in the corporation-house on the great
which he was buried, was pulled down V, plaza, built in 1545-64 by some great
under Soult’s rule, who scattered his unknown. The exterior is a silver
bones. Murillo was baptized Jan. 1, smith chasing in stone-work: observe
1618, in the Magdalena—tl1at church i the staircase, the carved doors, and
also Soult destroyed. His baptismal sala grande baja, with the Spanish
entry has escaped, and may be seen at kings, arranged in 35 squares, or Lacu
San Pablo. The street in which he nares, on the Admirable also
was born now bears his name. His is the inscription on Spanish Juslicia ,
tomb consisted of a plain slab, placed the very sound of which, so perfect in
before Oampana’s picture of the De theory, practically implies delay, injus
scent from the Cross (see p. 182),with a tice, ruin, and death. The Audieucia,
skeleton engraved on it, and the motto, or high court of what is called Justice
“Vive moriturus.” His painting-room, in Seville, sits in the opposite corner
nay, living-room, for he lived to paint, of the Plaza, and is presided over by
was in the upper floor, and is still as ta .Re_qente.\ The prison close by is a
sunny and as cheerful as his works. ,sad scene, and is called by the Majos,
There he died April 3, 1682. In the ‘ either el colegio, the school for teaching
garden observe the fountain, and Ita rogues, or La Poszula de los Franeeses.
lian frescoes, compositions of fauns, The_ different quarters into which
A12a7aZu;z'a. ROUTE 7.—SEVl.LLE—THE CLERGY. 189
Seville is divided are well expressed in ' nephews. The former are called amas,
these verses : not from ama/re, but the Sanscrit a
“ Desde la Catedral, ii la Magdalena,
house: so Ducange derives the syno
Se almuerza, se come, y se cena; nym foca/ria — “ ancilla quae focum
Desde la Magdalena, ti San Vicente, curat clericorum; concubina.” In the
Se come solamente; medimval period the concubines of the
Desde San Vicente, Ii la Macarena,
Ni se almuerza, ni se come, ml se cena.” -celibate clergy were almost licensed, as
among the Moors. The mistress was
The once wealthy clergy gathered called barragana, from the Arabic
like young pelicans under the wing of words barra, strange, and gana, _gan.i
the mother church. The best houses dir, a connexion: hence, in old Spanish,
were near the cathedral, in the Calle de natural children are called h2_'7'0s de
los Abades. This Abb0t’s street was ganancia, which has nothing to do
their “close:” here, “their bellies with . with gain, and is more analogous to
good capons lined,” the dignitaries the “ strange woman” in Judges xi. 2;
brealtfasted, dined, and supped; re others, and probably more correctly,
cently their commons have been much have derived the word from the Arabic
shortened. In the San Vicente lived Barragan, single, unmarried; which
the knights and nobles, and the Calle was essential to secure to the parties
de Armas was the aristocratic street of thus cohabiting without marriage, the
arms. Here the hidalgos, with their. sort of morganatic status allowed by
wives and daughters, ate less and the law. Many were the jests as re
dressed more: they only dined; they gards the childrcn born in this street :——
pinched their stomachs to deck their “ En la calle dc Z05 Abades,
backs: but the most ancient unchanged Todos han Ties, 3/ ningunos Padres.”
Iberian characteristic, from Athenaeus
to Lazarillo dc Tormes, has been ex The little ones called their father
ternal show and internal want. The their uncle, and he called them his ne
Macarena now, as it always was, is the phews.
abode of ragged poverty, which never " Los (Fanonigos lladre, no tienen hijos;
could or can for a certainty reckon on Los que tienen en casa, son sobrinicos.”
one or on any meal a day; but they and
their skins and jackets, are meat and The wealth and comparative luxury
drink to all lovers of the picturesque. of this order of the Spanish clergy of
The Calle de los Abades should be course exposed them to popular envy,
visited, although no longer so redolent reform, and plunder; pious innovators
of rich ollas. The cathedral stall‘ con were urged by the auri sacra fames of
sisted of an archbishop, an auxiliary our Henry VIII. ; and certainly the
bishop, 11 (now reduced to 5) dignita church had so well feathered its nest,
ries, 4-0 (now reduced to 16) canons, that Death met with few ruder welcomes
20 prebendaries, 20 minor canons, 20 than when he tapped at a right rev.
vienteneros, and 20 chaplains of the and venerable dignitary’s door, who was
quire. Their emoluments were very contented with his sublunary lot, his
great: nearly 900 houses in Seville pretty house, housekeeper, good cook,
belonged to the chapter, besides vast good income paid quarterly, and pair
estates, tithes, and corn-rents. Men of sleek mules ; the priestly maxim,
dizabal, in 1836, appropriated all this the canon, or Regla de Santiago, was
to the State, which was to pay the thus laid down :—
clergya diminished income, which it has El primer-o—es amar xi Don Dinero.
El segundo—es amolar d todo el mundo.
not done. Formerly this street was a El lercem—l7ue'n mm y camera.
rookery, nor were the nests without El cua1~to—ayunar despuzs de harto.
progeny. The Pope might deny his El quinto-bum blaneo y tinto.
Yaeztoa cinco mamlamientor, se encierran en
clergy wives and children, but the devil 51
provided them with housekeepers and Ibdo para mi, y nada para ms.
190 ROUTE 7.—-SEVILLE—LA CARlDAD— SOULT. Sect. II.
The first is—lo love the Lord Money. pious and the Protestant; the utter
The second is—to grind all the world.
The third is-good beef and mutton. want of all devotional sentiment in the
natives, who come only to see the show
The fourth ls—m fast when one can eat no
more. and be seen, is no less painfully striking
The fifth is-—good wimwwhite and red.
And these five commandments may be summedthan the degradation of the Deity by
up in two— these tawdry masquerading spectacles.
Everything for me, and nothing for you. The finest pictures in Seville are in
the Cathedral, La Caridad, the Museo,
And certainly, when the religious esta and the University. La C'a'r-idad is
blishments numbered 74, and the gra an alms-house, destined for some 80
tuitous schools only 1, the clerical ele poor old, and chiefly bed-ridden, men :
ment might be said to prevail over the it lies outside the walls, near the river.
educational. In truth, the pomp and This hospital, dedicated to St. George,
power of the full-blown church gave was founded in 1578, for the decent
cause to many complaints and calun1 interment of unburied paupers, and of
nies. It was accused of becoming rich criminals, whose remains previously
by professing poverty, of monopolising were left to 1-ot on the gibbets. It was
mundane affairs by pretending to re rebuilt in 1661 by Miguel de Maiiara
nounce them, and of securing to it Vicentelo de Lara, who, when young,
self the good things of the present was in profliga-cy a Don Juan of Se
world, by holding out to others hopes ville redivivus. He was buried in the
of those of a future one. Capilla mayor. Read his epitaph——
The great square of Seville was long cenizas del pear hombre que ha habido
called dc San Francisco, from the en el mundo .- and also consult his life
neighbouring now ruined and crum and death by Juan de Cardenas, 4to.,
bling convent. Murillo painted, in Seville, 1679. He was the personal
1645, for its small cloister, el Chico, friend and patron of Murillo. Observe
that series of 11 superb pictures which the colonnaded Patio. On entering
first made his talents known in Seville, the church, the carved and painted
after his return from Madrid. All these Descent from the Cross over the high
were removed by force of arms by Soult, altar is the masterpiece of Pedro Rol
save one, which, from his hurried flight dan; the almost startling reality is
after Salamanca, he left behind in the marred by tinsel dresses and architec
Alcazar, and which is now in our col tural fritter. Observe under the coro
lection, purchased and paid for. the “Triumph of Time,” and a “ Dead
A new square is building on the Prelate,” by J. Valdes Leal, a putrid
convent/s site, in which the picturesque picture, which Murillo said he could
and national will he superseded by not look at without holding his nose.
the comfortable, civilised, and common Here he painted, in 1660-74, that series
place. The old genuine Plaza remains, of grand pictures, of which Soult—
however, still the heart of the city—the hence justly called by Toreno the mo
forum, the place of gossip and of exe dern Verres, and by Mr. Stirling the
cutions, and in look is still very Moor I’lunder-Marshall-General—carried 0H‘
ish and picturesque, with its arcades 5, all of which is entirely blinked by
and balconies; under the former are Monsr. Maison in his pilfered Guide.
the jewellers’ shops. The Calle de But the Marshall was moderate when
Genoa, at the opposite corner, is the compared to his model, Verres, who took
Paternoster-row of Seville as regards 27 pictures from the Minerva Medica
booksellers’ shops, and of the Pasos, a alone (Cic. inVer. iv. 55). His “ Grace”
favourite spot to see the processions of bribedBuonaparte with one, the Sa Isa
Pasos, or dressed and painted images bel ; two others, the “Abraham and an
(see p. 49) during the Holy Week. gels,” and the “ Prodigal Son,” he sold
These relics of pagan mummeries will to the D. of Sutherland, and the “ Heal
please the antiquarian more than the ing the Cripple” to Mr. Tomline,
Andalucia. nouns 7.——SEVILLE-—MURILLO. 191
at fabulous prices ; the fourth, the and the Conde de Mejorada, have had
“Angel and St. Peter,” passed, at his all the plums picked out.
final sale, in 1852, to Russia. The Since the dissolution of the convents,
large amount of cash that that sale pro many pictures, and some neglected
duced oifers another proof of the judg antiquities, have been collected in the
ment with which Soult, “that well Merced, which is now the provincial
known French dealer,” “ collected.” Museum. This noble edifice was
The Spaniards only recently filled up founded in 124.-9 by St. Ferdinand.
the blank spaces; the gaps long yawned ‘ The Patio and Azulejos are of the time
like graves: hiatus maxime deflendus. of Charles V. Before the invasion
The Murillos now in the Oaridad even, it was full of fine paintings;
are an “Infant Saviour” on panel, and but a French agent had previously,
injured; a “St. John,” rich and brown; in the guise of a traveller, noted the
a “ San Juan de Dios,” equal to Rem contents; and the same individual, so
brandt; the Pa/it y Peres, or Loaves and the prior informed us, reappeared with
Fishes ; but the figure of Christ feed the army, and laughed at the deceived
ing the Five Thousand, which ought to monk, when he demanded them by
be the principal, is here subordinate: the list drawn up on his former visit.
the “ Moses striking the Rock” is much That respectable character Nero was
finer; this is indeed a representation the first who devised sending commis
of the Hagar-like thirst of the desert, sioners to pillage art, altars. &c. (Tao.
and is justly called La Sed : the figure An. xv. 45).
of Moses is poor, and wants relief, but At Seville, Bartolomé Esteban Mu
the parched groups are excellent. Both rillo is to be seen in all his glory, and
pictures are colossal, and painted in a a giant, like Antseus, on his native soil.
sketchy manner, calculated for the His finest pictures, painted for the
height and distance of their position Capuehinos, were sent oil‘, in 1810, to
from the spectator, which, however, is Cadiz, and thus escaped. Murillo, born
inconveniently high and distant; but at Seville, and baptized Jan. 1, 1618,
here they still hang, like rich oranges on where he died, April 3, 1682, was the
the bough where they originallybudded. painter of female and infantine grace, as
At Seville, as elsewhere, those good Velazquez was of more masculine and
pictures that M. Soult did not “remove” intellectual subjects. Both were true
by iron, the English have carried oil’ alike in form and colour to Spanish
by gold, and little now remains but un nature—both were genuine, national,
mitigated rubbish, to which fine names and idiosyncratic. Murillo had three
are all given, caveat Emptor ,- here all styles: the Frio, his earliest, being
the geese are swans—al1 are Murillos, based on Ribera and Caravaggio, was
all by Velazquez, and so forth; but it dark, with a decided outline. Of these
is sheer loss of time to visit these were the pictures in San Francisco.
refuges of the destitute and worthless; His second manner was his Calida, or
and our collectors cannot be too ear warm, when his colouring was im
nestly cautioned against making pur proved, while his drawing was still
chases, and picking up an original for well defined and marked. His third
an old song. Among the least bad style was the Va42oroso, or misty,
may be mentioned the collections of vaporous, and blending. This he
Dean Cepero, who lives in Murillo’s adopted partly because Herrera el
house, and that of Don Aniceto Bravo, Mozo had made it the fashion, and
No. 40, Oalle de Zos Catalanes, which partly because, being stinted for time
contains 700 and more “ warranted from the increased orders, he could
originals,” and the collections of Se not finish so highly. Thus, like Turner
iiores Garcia and Saenz. The once and Wilkie, to get more quickly over
really genuine and precious galleries of his work, he sacrificed a somewhat of
Don Julian Williams, Canon Maestre, his previous conscientious drawing.
'—

192 ROUTE 7.—SEVlILLE—ZURBARAN. Sect. II.


The Jlluceo of Seville, which is by and substance than in the ornamental
far the first provincial one in Spain, brocades of P. Veronese; Zurbaran is
is, as most other things there, the! called the Spanish Carravaggio, but lie
creation of accident and individuals; is much more Titianesque, more ele
nor does it contain a single specimen vated in mind and manner. Among
of Velazquez, the greatest painter of the other Zurbarans observe, “San
Spain, and in this his native city. In Henrique de Sufon” and No. 1O
1836 the Canon Manuel Lope Cepero, “San Luis Bertram,” and the “Padre
now the dean, a gentleman of real taste ‘ Eterno;” also, No. 150, a Saviour in
and high honour, managed at the sup violet as a youth plaiting a crown of
pression of the convents, when appro- I thorns; also the three first-rate pic
priation and Vandalism were the order ‘ tures from the Cartu_ja—“ San Bruno
of the day, to get the best pictures before Urban II.,” “the Virgin pro
removed to the Cathedral, a sanc tecting the Monks,” and No. 137
tuary where they were saved from the “San Hugo in the R/efectory;” al
spoilers; the authorities, who cared though unfortunately injured by over
for none of these things, affording no cleaning, they are magnificent. N0
other assistance than that of galley one ever painted fleecy-hosiery Car
slaves, to do the mere porters’ work! thusian monks like Zurbaran; he was,
In 1838 Sefior Bejarano managed by however, apt to draw too much from
a private subscription to move them‘ lay figures, which gives a hard outline,
into their present situation. Mean no throbbing life heaves under his re
while, as nothing in Spain is ever com gular folds. The studier of style will
plete, here in Seville we sigh for fine. notice the peculiar pinky tone of this
specimens of Velazquez, Luis de Vargas, master, especially in female cheeks:
and even Alonso Cano; nevertheless they seem fed on roses, as was said of
it is the best place in the whole Penin Parrhasius and Baroccio; but the
sula to study the masters of this school, prevalent use of rouge at that time in
many of whose names and works have. fluenoed his eye, as it did that of
scarcely even been heard of in Eng Velazquez. No. 19, Sn. Pedro 1\'0
land, such as the Polaneos, Valdez ' lasco, is by Fr°' Pacheco, the feeble
Leal, Varela, Vasquez, &c. A meagre master and father-in-law of Velazquez.
catalogue of this Museo was published ‘ By the presumptuous and conceited
in 1850 by one Alvarez. Herrera el M020 is No. 13, Santa
At the entrance is the elaborate iron Anna and the Virgin.
Cruz, which stood formerly in the Cer Of Juan de Castillo, Muri11o’s mas
rageria, and is the work of Sebastian ter, observe the series of 5 from the
Conde, 1692. The other antique sculp Monte Sion, especially the “Annun
ture scattered about in most admired, ciation,” “Visitation,” “Nativity and
disorder, is second-rate. The fine Sille Adoration, and Coronation of the Vir
ria del Cora by P. D. Cornejo, from gin.” In No. 136 the “ San Andres ”
the Cartuja, is placed in a room below, of Roelas, a child is almost _equal to
as also the carvings by Montanes. some by Correggio, as a warrior is to
Among the finest pictures observe N0. one by Titian. Of Herrera el Viejo,
1, the Apotheosis of Thomas Aquinas, the bold dashing master of Velazquez,
the master-piece of Francisco Zurba who lost his scholars with his temper,
ran, and painted in 1625, for the Co observe the San Ifermenegildo, to
legio de Santa Tomas; “Removed” to which the artist owed his safe deli
Paris by Soult, it was recovered by verance; guilty of a forgery, he had
Wellington at Waterloo; the Head of _ fled to an asylum, where he painted
St. Thomas is the portrait of a Don‘ this picture. Philip IV., who saw it
Agustin de Ecobar; the drapery, velin 1624, inquired for the author, and
vet, armour, &c., olfer a blaze of splen
pardoned him, observing that such
dour combined with much more stufl' talents ought never to be abused. His
Andalucia. ROUTE 7.—SEVILLE-—PICTURES BY MURILLO. 193

San Basilio is bold and Ribera-like: ties were so long a stumbling-block to


observe the kneeling bishop and the the priests, who could not say mass
handling of the drapery, for in it is quietly before them. Pacheco (Arte
the germ of Velazquez. The pictures de Pint, 201), states the case of a
of Frutet, a Calvario, Christ on a Cross, venerable prelate who was so troubled
Descent, and a. Virgin, which came from by the deshabille of a condemned gen
Las Bubas; as well as those of the pre tlewoman, that he pronounced exposure
sumptuous Juan Valdes, from San Ge to a hurricane in the storm-vexed Ber
ronimo, are second-rate ; observe, how mudas—he had been a sailor in his
ever, the Calvario, and those relating to youth—to be infinitely less perilous.
San Jerome, which are painted with a The Murillos are placed in the Sula
most Spanish defiance of time, place, and dc Murillo, like gems set in a diadem.
costume. Notice especially the terra The finest came from the Capuchin
cotta, “ St. Jerome” ofPietro Torrigiano, convent, for which they were painted
which was long in the Buena Vista con at his best period. Although the pre
vent. This great Italian, born at Flo sent light is better than that of their
rence about M70, and known in his original positions, yet they lose some
tory for breaking his co-pupil Michael thing by the change, as Murillo, in de
Angelo’s nose, was sent to Spain by his signing them, calculated each exactly
patron, Pope Alexander VI., a Borgia for its locality, and painted up to the
and a Spaniard. He came to Granada in actual light and point of view; and
the hopes of executing the Sepulchre of we moreover much miss the Capiwhino
Ferdinand and Isabella; rejected be cicerone, who seemed to have stepped
cause a foreigner,he turned to England, out of one of the pictures to tell us
and wrought that of Henry VII. in where Murillo went for a model, and
Westminster Abbey. Torrigiano re how true was his portrait; the Santa
turned to Spain, where he modelled a Tomas de Villanueva, No. 155, was
Virgin, of which the exquisite La mam) called by the painter su cuudro, his own
zi la teta, in the Seville plaster-shops, is picture. The beggars are beyond price ;
a cast. He died—oh! blot to Seville— the smallest is worth a wilderness of
tortured in the vaults of the Inquisition, best dressed lords and ladies of the bed
nominally because of suspected faith, chamber; none could represent them
but really a victim of artistical jealousy and Franciscans like Murillo, and
and Espmiolismo. But so Bernard Pa simply because he painted them the
lissy, the Luca de la Robbia of France, most, and drew only what he saw
perished in 1589, consigned to a dun actually in the ]Maca/rena and at every
geon by bigoted persecutors. convent gate, as all who remember the
Near this “St. Jerome” is a Santa genus monasticum will admit. His was
Domingo, from‘ Portaceli, by Montafies. a faithful transcript of Spanish men
The anatomical and fair nudity of the dieant and monastic nature, neither
Italian contrasts with the brown draped more nor less. No. 154, the San Felix
work of the Spaniard. Observe also a ole Oantalicio, is the perfection of the
crucifix and a St. Dominick by the same euporoso: the delicate young flesh of
sculptor, and a crucifix by Matias Vaz the child, the Corregiesque morbidezza,
quez de Leca, 1614; from the Certain contrasts with the greys of the aged
convent, the four repainted Virtues, saint. This, say the Spaniards, is
and the Sillerfa del Cora. Notice also painted con leche 3/ sangre, or with
No. 114, a “ Last Supper,” and a milk and blood. No. 156, the Samfas
“ Christ,” by the learned Pablo de Justa y Rujimz, is in his calido style,
Oespcdes ; a Battle of Clavijo, by Juan forcible, and yet tender. “The Na
de Varela; a portrait of Ferd. VII., tivity;” No. 152 “The Adoration of
by Goya; and No. 380, the celebrated Shepherds ;" Sam Leandra and Sam
Last Judgment, by Martin de Vos, Buenaventu/ra--observe the peeping
from San Agustin, whose female nudi boy like Oorreggio, not that Murillo
Spain. —I. K
-1|-'
194 ROUTE 7.—-—SEVlLLE—IMMACULATE CONCEPTION. Sect. II.

ever studied from him, he looked rather (de N. et G. 36; contra Jul. v. 15,
to the children as painted by Roelas. vi. 22). The dispute of this Imma
Observe the San José; San Juan con el culate Conception waxed warm in
Cordero and No. 165, “ The Virgin and the 13th century, but the Roman
Child,” called La Servilleta, because clergy took little interest in a mere
said to have been painted on a dinner question of casuistry. The Council of
napkin; the child almost struggles out Trent blinked the question, wishing to
of its mother’s arms, and out of the decide nothing (see Sarpi IILs-toria, p.
picture-frame. What a creative power, 188, ed. 1629). Not so the Spaniard,
what a coiner was our Murillo, who whose worship of an Astarte is almost
could convert into a bank-note a napkin, sexual: accordingly, when it was re
in which most Spaniards bury their pc vived in 1613, a Dominican monk
tit talent! No. 161, “ St. Francis cin having contended that the Deipara was
bracing the Crucified Saviour 1” here is liable to the pains and penalties of
seen Muril1o’s great power of drawing. original sin, their rival mendicants the
Observe, also, “The Virgin and Angels Franciscans aflirmed that she was ex
with the Dead Christ," and “ The An cmpt. Those of Seville took the lead so
nunciation.” No. 157, the San Anto violently that, before the Dominicans
nio, is a finer picture than that in the were silenced by the Pope, the whole
cathedral; observe the monk’s ex population assembled in churches, and
pression looking on the child that is sallying forth with an emblematical
seated on his book. Also No. 162, picture of the sinless Mary, set upon a
Sa/n Felix, half"-length. All these came sort of standard surmounted by a cross,
from the Capuchinos. There is also paraded the city in different directions,
an early Murillo, a “ Virgin and singing praises to the Immaculate Con
Child,” from San Jose, and two of San ception, and repeating aloud the hymns
Agustin. The rest of the collection, of her rosa/ry. These processions long
some hundred pictures, are by difi'erent constituted one of the peculiar usages of
artists, and of different degrees of Seville; and, although confined to the
merit. The above selected are the lower classes, assumed that character
pearls of greatest price. And last, not istic importance and overbearing spirit
least, observe No. 151, La Concepcion which, as among the Moslems, is at
by Murillo, once a gem of the Oapu taehed to religious associations inSpain.
chin convent. No. 1 is another and Wherever one of these processions pre
larger of this popular Seville subject, sents itself to the public, it takes up
but not so fine : Murillo, from his ex= the street from side to side, stopping
cellence in painting this “mystery,” the passengers and expecting them to
was called el pintor de la: concepciones. stand uncovered in all kinds of wea
The crowning and protecting mys ther till the standard is gone by. These
tery of Spain is the dogma that the banners are called Sin Pecados, that is,
Virgin was born free from all taint of “ sinless,” from the theological opinion
original sin. This is so peculiar and in support of which they were raised.
national, occurs so frequently in church, They take place during the holy
chapel, and gallery, and has occupied Week and the winter season, and are
so many pens, pencils, and chisels, that very picturesque. At nightfall the long
some explanation is absolutely neces lines of men, Women, and children, two
sary in any ‘Handbook for Spain.’ and two, are seen twinkling through
The assertion that she was exempt the narrow streets, which are illumi
from original sin—which by deifying nated from the balconies of the houses.
the Woman, denies the humanity of Their hymns arc precisely the old, Noc
the Saviour, a dogma which, in 1854! turnis, Hecate, triviis ululata per urbes;
is the panacea of Pio Nono—was due and there is something striking in the
to a heretic, Pelagius, while the ortho melody of the chant of distant voices
dox St. Augustine taught the reverse heard as it approaches: the procession
Andalucia. ROUTE 7.—-SIIVILLl7}——IMMACULATE CONCEPTION. 195
is headed by devotees, who carry richly occasion. Charles III. afterwards in
chased lamps,far0les, on staves. The stituted an order, to which he gave his
parish priest follows, bearing the glit name “ Carlos Tercero,” under the
tering banner of gold and velvet, the emblem of the Immaculate Concep
Sin Pecado, on which the Virgin is tion—a woman dressed in white and
embroidered; as soon as the cortege blue; and a law was enacted requiring
passes by, the candles in the balconies a declaration upon oath of a firm belief
are put out: thus, while all before is in the Immaculate Conception from
‘ one glare of light, all behind is dark, every individual previous to his taking
and it seems as if the banner of the any degree at the universities, or being
Virgin cast glory and effulgence before - admitted into any of the corporations,
her, like the fire-pillar which preceded civil and religious, which abound in
the Israelites in the desert. The scholar Spain. This oath was administered
may compare all this with the accounts even to mechanics upon their being
of the “ Omnipotentis Deac foecundum made free of a guild. At Seville a col
simulacrn1n;” the lamps, songs, ante lege, Las Becas, was founded solely to
cantamenia, and processions of the instruct youth in the defence of this
Pompa of Isis described by Apulcius, mystery. All the facts and opinions,
‘Met.’ xi. 243, et seq. The air of the both pro and con, are collected by the
music varies in diflerent parishes: the Franciscan Pedro Alva y Astorga, un
words are Dias te salve Maria, llena der the title “Funiculi nodi indisso
ares de gracia, el Sailor es contigo, ben lubiles de conceptu mentis et ventris :”
dita tu eres entre todas las mugeres, y Brussels, 1661. The author left 18
bendito es elfruto dc tu vientre ; Jesus J more volumes on this subject, which
Sta. Maria, Madre de Dios, ruega still remain unpublished (see Antonio,
Seiiora par nosotros pecadores ahora y ‘Bib. Nov.’ 168). The arguments
en la hora de nuestra muerte. may be summed up in three words,
The Spanish government, under decuit, potuit, fecit. The miracle was
becoming the occasion, it was in the
Charles III., showed the greatest eager
ness to have the sinless purity of thepower of the Almighty to work it, and
Virgin Mary added by the Pope to the he did.
articles of the Roman Catholic faith. Formerly no one entered a house
The court of Rome, however, with the or company without giving the watch
cautious spirit which has at all times word of Seville, Ave Maria pu/risima,
guided its spiritual politics, endea to which the inmates responded by the
voured to keep clear from a stretch of countersign sin pecado concebida : now
authority, which even some of its own the first portion is generally the indica
divines would be ready to question; tion of a visit from a mendicant.
but splitting, as it were, the difference Seville having taken the lead in the
with theological precision, the censures dispute, as became the capital of ultra
of the church were levelled against mariolatrous Andalucia, La tierra de
such as should have the boldness to la Santisma, it is natural that some
assert that the Virgin Mary had derived of the most perfect conceptions of
any taint from her ancestress Eve; next, Murillo and Alonso Cano should have
having personified the Immaculate Con been devoted to the embodying this
ception, it was declared that the Spa incorporeal mystery; and never has
nish dominions in Europe and America dignified composure and innocence of
were under the protecting influence of mind, uurullled by human guilt or pas
that mysterious event : the declaration, sion, pu_re unsexual unconsciousness of
on the 22nd October, 1617, diffused sin or shame, heavenly bcatitude past
joy over all Spain. Seville 'went reli utterance, or the unconquerable ma
giously mad. Zufiiga and Valderama jesty and “hidden strength of chas
enter into all the details of the bull tity,” been more exquisitely portrayed.
fights which were celebrated on the She appears in a state of extatic bea
Q K 2
196 ROUTE 7.—SEVILLE——IMMACULATE CONCEPTION. Sect. II.

titude, and borne aloft in a golden surrounded with smaller pictures, which
tether to heaven, to which point her represent those different attributes
bcauteous eyes are turned, by a group and manifold perfections of the Virgin,
of angels, which none could paint or which are celebrated in her Hymn
colour like Murillo, who seems to have and Litany. Murillo’s unapproach
studied in heaven those_little cherubs able pre-eminence in representing this
of which that kingdom is made. The charming subject procured for him the
retiring virgin loveliness of the blessed . name of el pintor de la Concepcion.
Mary seems to have stolen so gently, so The draperies of the Virgin must be
silently on her, that she is unaware of very long, and her feet never shown ;
her own power and fascination. The and this forms one guide to distinguish
Inquisition required the Virgin to be Spanish from Italian pictures of this
painted as about fifteen years old, very subject.
beautiful, with those regular features The mys of the incarnation is
which the Greek artists selected to shadowed out in the armorial bearings
express the perfect passionless serenity of the Virgin, the vase with lily
of the immortal gods, devoid of human brcmches, jarro con agucenas, which is
frailties, and the type of “the unpal to be seen sculptured in Spanish ca
luted temple of the mind ;" that her thedrals, most of which are dedicated
attitude should be— to her, and not to the Father or Son.
In the middle ages an idea was preva
" Her graceful arms in meekness bending
Across her gently budding breast ;”—
lent that any female who ate the lily
that she should be clad in a. spotless would become pregnant: Lucina. sine
robe of blue and white, because she concubitu. See some remarks of ours
appeared in those colours to Beatriz in the ‘ Q,uar. Rev.’ cxxiii. 130.
de Silva. She should bruise with her The University of Seville was origin
heel the serpent’s head; thus tram ally a convent erected by the Jesuits in
pling on the author of original sin. 1565-79, after designs ofHer1-era, and in
She should stand on the moon in a their peculiarworldly pomp, which con
crescent shape; thus combining at trastedwith the gloomy piles of the more
once the symbol of Pagan and Moslem, ascetic orders. When Charles III. ex
the crescent of Isis, of Diana, and of pelled them in 1767, it was assigned, by
the Turk. The horns should be placed the praiseworthy efforts of Olavide, to
downwards, because in fact the moon purposes of education. Thearrangement
is always solid, although it appears to in the church of the subsequent frieze,
us, from the sun getting between it and cornice, and architraves is objection
the earth, to be occasionally a crescent. able, when compared with the original
The moon is introduced because the Doric. Recently many churriguer
“ Woman, clothed with the sun, and the esque altars and absurd ornaments
moon under her feet, and upon her have been removed. It may be called
head a crown of twelve stars” (Rev. the second Musemn of Seville, and the
xii. 1) is held at Rome to si “ the founder was the same worthy Cepero.
Virgin,” while Protestants interpret A tolerable library has been formed
the “Woman” as an image only of from those of the suppressed convents,
the Christian or _ spiritual Church. and the system of education has been
Meantime these stars should never be modernised and improved since 1846.
omitted. The body of -the Virgin Although the position of the Caro
should float in an atmosphere of light, Alto of the chapel spoils the general
derived from herself. The cordon of ' effect, the raised altar mayor, with
San Francisco, sacred as the'Zennaarl its tabernacle by Matias, 1604, is noble.
cord of the Brahmins, should encircle The superb Corinthian Retrzblo de
the whole, because it is the badge of signed by Alonso Matias, in 1606,
that order which defended her imma- i
contains three grand paintings by
culate conception. The subject is often Roelas—a Holy Family, with Jesuits ;
Andalucia. ROUTE 7.—SEVILLE—UNlVERSITY. 197
aNativity; and an Adoration. No one from the reversed torch ; its companion
ever painted the sleek and oily grimal was taken to Madrid. The armed
kin Jesuit like Roelas. Observe an An effigy is somewhat heavy. Observe
nunciation by Pacheco; a St. John the statues of Diego Gomez de Ribera,
the Evangelist, and a St. John the Bap ob. 1434, and his wife Beatriz Puerto
tist, by Alonso Cano. The statues of Carrero, ob. 1548. Among others of
St. Peter and St. Paul are by Mon this warlike family, most of whom
taiies. Observe the smaller picture by spent their lives in combating the
Roelas, and particularly the Infant Moor, are Perafan de Ribera, ob.
Saviour. Al lado del Evangelio are 1455, and another of the same name,
the bronze monuments of Francisco ob. 14123, aged 105 ; perhaps the finest
Duarte and his wife Catalina, ob. 1554 ; is that of Dofia Catalina, ob. 1505,
both were brought in 184.0 from the which was made for her son Fadrique,
Convento de la Victoria de Triana. in Genoa, 1519, by Pace G-azini. It
The Retablos of the chapels of Con. was mutilated by the French, by whom
cepcion and Lax Reliquias deserve no the splendid bronze of this Fadrique
tice: in the latter are pictures in the was destroyed, when Soult converted
manner of Pacheco. Observe the two the Cartuja into a barrack: one large
images made to be dressed, imagenes flat monumental engraved brass only
de oesti/r, ofFrancisco de Borja and San escaped—the efligy of his nephew Fa?
Ignacio, wrought in 1610 by Mon drique, ob. 1571, viceroy of Naples,
taiies; the latter was coloured by where it is conjectured that it was ex
Francisco Pacheco, and probabl is ecuted. For further details consult
the best portrait of the founder o the Una Visita (2 la Universidad. A. M.
order of Jesuits that exists; also by de Cisneros y Lanura, Seville, 1853.
him a crucifix and a fine Concepcion; Seville, in good old times, contained
and some pictures, by Cane, of the more than 14-O churches, filled with
lives of San Cosmé, San Damian, a objects of piety, art, and value; many
Saviour, and a Holy Father. Among were plundered and pulled down by
the monumental curiosities removed Soult’s sappers, and others since the
from Santiago ale Espada, a ohurch suppression of monasteries have shared
which Soult turned into a stable, ob a similar fate. These establishments
serve, first, the founder’s tomb, Lo were well endowed, and afforded a f65!
renzo Suarez de Figueroa, with his tival and spectacle of some kind or
favourite dog Amadis at his feet; and other for almost every day in the year,
next the sepulchre of the learned Be and, in fact, monopolized the time and
nito Arias Montano, ob. 1598: these relaxation of the people. There are
were brought also from the Santiago, three kinds of religious days or festi
and properly placed here as an ex vals : the first are called Fiestasde pre
ample to young students; remark the cepto, on which no sort of work may
costume. In an apartment recently be done; the second are Fiestas de
fitted up are 4. heads of Latin fathers concejo, which might and ought to be
by Alonso Cano, 2 pictures by Roelas, held sacred also; the third are Fiestas
and a good Zarbaran. de media trabajo, half holidays, when
On the suppression of the Cartuja work is permitted on condition of hav.
convent, the burial-place of the Ribera ing first heard a mass; the scholar
family, Ca-non Cepero induced their may compare the ancient Dies Festi—
representative, the Duke of Medina et Profesti (see Macrob. Sat. i. 16;
Celi, to remove the fine sepulchres of Virg. Georg. i. 268). M. Soult arrested
his ancestors : that of Pedro Enriquez, all this prodigious and pious idling :
ob. 1/L92, was sculptured at Genoa by first, by sapping the religious principle
Antonio Charona in 1606. The Virgin of belief; secondly, by knocking down
and Child is much admired, as also the buildings, and seizing the funds by
the weeping genius, called La Tea, which theholidayshows were supported.
198 noun: 7.—s1:vn.m~:—cmmcnss. Sect. II.
Among the most interesting old '‘ the glorious Relablo, by Roldan, was
churches which survive, the ecclesio1o- , pulled down by the French and sold
gist may still visit Sun Lorenzo : here is l as wood for firing, when Soult turned
a “Concepcion" by F. Pacheco, 1624; ' the ch. into a cartridge-manufactory.
an “ Annunciation” by Pedro de Ville Thetower of San Pedro is Moorish ;
gas Marmolejo, who lies buried here, observe the artesonado roof and the fine
with an epitaph written by Arias Mon Reiablo : the pictures by Campana
tano. Here also is buried the prolific 'have been repainted. The “Delivery
priest Juan Bustamente,ob. 1678, setat. ‘ of St. Peter” is by Roclas.
125 ; this true Pad/re was father of 42 1&1» Juan de la Pulma was a Moor
legitimate and 9 natural children. In 1 ish mosque dedicated to the Baptist ;
the Retablo are 4 medallions and a San the Arabic inscription at the entrance
Lorenzo, by Montafies, by whom also is records that “this great temple was
Nuestro Sefior de gran Poder, a superb rebuilt in 1080 by Axataf.” The cross
graven image. occupies the site of the palm, under
In the Colegio, or ancient university, ‘which the dead were buried. One of
de Maese Rodrigo, so called from the the corpses, in 1537, hearing a rich
founder, Rodrigo Fernandez de San- r‘ Jew say that the mother of God was
taella, 1505, are or were some injured 3 not a Virgin, rose from his grave and
pictures by Zurbaran. The portrait of denounced him to the Inquisition, who
the founder, by Zurbnran, has been en bunit the sceptic and confiscated his
tirely repainted by Bcjarano. Readers property. Inside is a “Crucifixion”
of Cervantes should look at the Mar by Campana, early and hard, and an
morillos, mentioned in the Rim.-onetef infant Christ by Montafies.
g Cortadillo. In San Isidore is “ El Ilrans-iio,” or
San Clemente contains a splendid the death of the tutelar saint, the
alerce roof, and a plateresque high masterpiece of Roelas a very great
altar by Montafies, and a portrait of master, although mudh less known
St. Ferdinand by Valdes,and 2 pictures ' and appreciated than he deserves:
of him by Pacheco: the Azulejos are observe the gray heads, the Correg
curious, and of the date 1588. Observe ‘ %la0S(]_11116 fleshdtigts, spl m_uc1l)11studied by
the grand and powerful St. John the. uri 0. an ‘me a mira e composi
Baptist, carved by Jaspar Nuiiez Del- l tion. The lower portion is the finest,
gado, and painted by Pacheco. _and the heads are evidently portraits.
San Miguel is very ancient; the Here also are an indifferent “St. An
statue of the tutelar is either by Rol- 1 thony” and “St. Paul,” by Campana,
dan or his daughter'; observe the pil- ‘ both repainted, and some pictures by
lars and capitals, and the Christ, by. Valdes: the El Cireneo is carved by
Montaiies, bearing his cross ; it is one Bernardo Gijon.
of his finest works, and is called El In Santa Ma;-in la Blanca, a syna
Padre Jesus de la I'asi0n. It has an , gogue down to 1391, are some granite
especial cofradia for its worship and ‘ columns, thought to be Roman. Soult
custody. The pictures called “Ra plundered it of the 5 Murillos, leaving
phael and Vandyke ” are bad copies. only by him a “ Last Supper,” in his
The magnificent ch. of the convent ‘ frio style. Here is a “ Dead Christ,”
of St. Pablo has been recently appro by L. de Vargas; very fine and Flo
priated to the parish: it contains rentine, but cruelly injured and neg
paintings by Arteaga, and frescoes by lected.
Lucas Valdes, and some fine Pasos. The Colegiata Saw Salvador con
In San Andres is a “ Concepcion” tinued in its original mosque form
by Montaiies, with many small pic down to 1669, when it was rebuilt in
tures by Villegas. the worst Churriguerismo, and after
In San Alberto is a Via Crucis, said , wards still more disfigured by Cayetano
to be by Cano, and several Pachccos; Acosta, by whom is the abominable
Andalucia. ROUTE 7.»—SEVl1.LE—PLAZA DEL DUQUE. 199
Transfiguration; the image of San say, by Cano. The plateresquc Retablq
Cristobal is by Montafies, those of Sa. has a fine painting of Santa Lucia, the
Rufina and Sa. Justa are by P. D. patroness of eyes (luar, light). In the
Cornejo. The Patio was the original church of this Santa I/ucia, once a
Moorish court: here is a miraculous mosque, is a “Martyrdom of the Pa
crucifix, El Crista dc los Desampa/rm troness,” by Roelas, and a sweet Con
dos, where countless pictures and ception, attributed to Cano.
“ votive tablets ” are hung up by those San Esteban, once a Mosarabic
relieved by its miracles, as in the days church, contains specimens by Zur
of Horace and Tibullus. The sick come baran, and a fine “ Christ bearing the
here for cure, and suspend legs, arms, Cross,” by Montafies.
and models of the parts benefited, made The tower of San Marcos may be
of wax, which become the fee of the ascended, as Cervantes often did, to see
priest ; and from the number it would the house near it of his beloved Isabella.
seem that he has more practice, and In San Martin is a “Descent from
effects more cures, than the regular, the Cross,” ascribed to Cane; but it
Sangrados; but it must be remembered is a Roman painting, and inscribed
that those who are not cured but die, “Jo. Guy. Romo. f. afio 1608;” ob
make no signs. serve the chapel of Juan Sanchez Gal
San Vicente was founded in 300. lego, built in 1500, and repaired in
Here, in 421, Gunderic, entering to 1614. In the Retablo are some early
plunder, was repulsed by fiends. Here paintings by Herrera el Viejo.
San Isidoro died, A.D. 636: the affect The admirers of Roelas should visit
ing account, by Redenipto, an eye La Academia, where is a “Concep
witness, is printed in the Esp, Sayr cion ” by him eqiml to G-uido.
ix. 402. Outside is painted the tutelar N.B. Several pictures by Roelas exist
with his familiar crow holding a pitchs at Olivares, 4: L. N.W. of Seville, and
fork in his mouth: a rudder would a pleasant ride. He was canon of that
have been more appropriate (see p. church. There he painted, in 1624, a
130). But these attendant birds are “Birth of Christ,” now much injured ;
an old story—Juno had a cuckoo on an “Adoration,” an “Annunciation,”
her sceptre (Pans. ii. 17. 4), Jupiter a “ Marriage of the Virgin,” the
preferred an eagle, Esculapius a cock. “ Death of St. Joseph ;” but although
Inside is a painting of Christ by M0 his last, they are not his best works.
rales, and some large pictures by Fran Here he died, April 23, 1625.
cisco de Varela. The Calls dc la Sierpe, the Bond
In San Julian is a fresco of St. street of Seville, leads to the Plaza
Christopher by Juan Sanctis de Castro, del Duqne, where the great Dukes of
1484 ; it was barbarously repainted in Medina Sidonia had their palace. This
1828. Under some shutters to the l. central square is planted, and forms
is a “Holy Family” by him, which the fashionable nocturnal promenade
has escaped better, and is one of the during the summer months, and which
oldest paintings in Seville: the kneeling is truly southron and striking. Itisa
figure is one of the Tons Monsalvez miniature Vauxhall, minus the price of
family, who were buried here, and to admission or the lamps; but the dusk
whom the Virgin appeared on a broom- » is all the better for those who, like glow
bush ; hence she is called dc la Iniesta. worms, need no other light but their
Observe the Rejas, made of votive; bright eyes,whieh never sparkle brighter
chains of captives delivered by her in than by night, and it has not yet been
terference. Catenam ex voto Laribus l settled whether the fair sex of Seville
—so the Phialeans oifered their chains 1 blushes or not in the dark : certain it
to their goddess (Pans. i. 58). There ‘ is, that the moon, which cannot ripen
is a curious old folio on her legend. grapes, here ripens love, and in these
The “ Concepcion” at the altar is, some ‘ torrid climes the rays of the cold chaste
200 noun: 7.-—SEVlLLE—LA rams. Sect. II.

orb of Dian are considered more dan- l council of Constantinople, to which the
gerous than the tabardillo or coup de younger classes of Sevillians are as
soleil: “mas quema la Luna, que el; scandalously inattentlve as the Irish
Sol,” the moon sets more on fire than ‘ at their similar Baal-tinné. But civi
the sun, so propinquity is doubly ha lisation is sapping creeds and practices
zardous, since the Spanish man isim ' Spain.
peculiarly combustible, fire itself ac To the lefiv of the fountain is a
cording to the proverb, and the woman barrack of tattered invalids, which once
being tow, the smallest puff of the evil ‘was a convent of Jesuits, and when
one creates an awful conflagration. that order was suppressed was given
“ El hombre es uwgn, la muger extopa, up to the Inquisition. The edifice, ra
Vime el dial) 3/ aopla." ther cheerful than forbidding, partakes
Continuing from this plaza, walk by more of the attraction of its first pro
the ch. of San Vicente to the Alameda i Prietors than of the horror of its second.
Viefa, the ancient but now deserted Dismantled by the populace, it contains
walk of Seville. The water of the foun- ‘ no record of its dungeons, and tor
tain here, del Arzobiqro, is excellent, ¥ ture-rooms; but, fast hastening to
and the best in Seville. Look at the ruin, is in all respects a fit abode for its
Roman pillars and statues (see p. 172). inmates.
Here reside the horse-dealers and Turning to the rt. is La Feria, where
jockeys, and cattle-dealing continually 'a fair is held every Thursday, which
goes on. all should visit ; it is the precise Soock
June is the great month for Veladas, e juma of Cairo; the street leads to the
vigils, and wakes, nocturnal obser Plaza dc la Encarnaci0n—now the
vances kept on the eve preceding the market place, to construct which the
holy day: the chief is that on the 24th, French pulled down a convent dedi
St. John’s day, and is celebrated on cated to the Incarnation. Here the
this old Alameda, and is proverbially naturalist will study the fish, flesh,
merry :— fruits, and fowls ; the fish and game
" La dc San Juan en Sevilla
are excellent, as is also the pork, when
Es alcgre ni 1m1ravilla.” fattened by the autumnal acorn, the
Izellota. Instinct teaches these feree
This St. J0hn’s, our midsummer eve, is , naturse to ' fatten themselves on the
or was devoutly dedicated to flirtation good things which a bountiful nature
by both sexes,who go or ought to go out provides. Those meats which require
at daybreak to gather vervain, eager la ' artificial care, and the attention of man,
verbena, which represents in Spain the i are very far inferior. Observe the pur
magical fcrn~seed of our forefathers. chases made, the two-ounce “joints”
Bonfires are lighted, in sign of rejoicings of meat or carrion, for the poverty
——-like the ban-feu of our G-uy Fauxes— stricken olla, pars-im0ni0'us' as in the
over and through which the lower time of Justin (xliv. 2). It must be
classes leap ; all this is the exact manner remembered, that in this burning clime
by which the ancients celebrated the less animal food, which generates calo
entrance of the sun into the summer ric, is necessary than in the cold north.
solstice. The fires of Cybele were kin Notwithstanding, the Spanish proverb
dled at midnight. The jumping over considers the man who dines in Se
them was not merely a feat of activity, ville as especially favoured by heaven,
but of meritorious devotion (Ovid. “A quien Dias quiere bien, en Seoillas
Fast iv. 727) : le dzz de comer," few of our English
"Certe ego transllii positss wr ordine readers will think so.
flammas."
In the Calle del 'C'andilejo is a bust
This custom of passing through the of Don Pedro, placed, it is said, in
fire of Baal or Moloch was expressly memorial of his having here stabbed a
forbidden in the year 680, at the 5th: man. The Rey Justieiero quartered
Andalusia. acorn 7.—SEVILLE——LA cum. 201
himself in eifigy only. His and Lord suburbs; the circuit of the Moorish
Byron’s “friend,” Don Juan, was a walls, about a league, with its gates and
Sevillian majo, and a true hidalgo. towers, once numbering 166, contains
The family
lived name
in a house nowwas Tenorio.to the
belonging He i many objects of first-rate interest. We
shall commence going out from the
nuns of San Leand/ro, in which there Calle de lasArmae, by the PuertaReal,
is some good carving, although the the Royal Gate, through which St.
French did infinite mischief there. Ferdinand entered in triumph. It was
(For his real pedigree, see our paper in called by the Moors Gales, which the
the ‘Quar. Rev.’ exvii. 82; consult Sevillians, who run wild about Hercules,
also the Burlador de Sevilla or Convi consider to be a corruption from that
dado de Piezlra, by Tirso de Molina, name : it is simply the gate of Gales, a
with Ochoa’s preface in the Tesoro Moorish suburb (Conde, iii. 35). The
del Teatro Espariol. Paris, 1838; present gate is built in the Roman style,
vol. iv. 74) ; the Tenorios had a chapel and is disproportionate to the site.
in the Eanciscan convent, where the Emerging from a dip to the rt. is the
murdered Comendador was buried, and Colegio de Merced, or San Laureano,
to which Don Juan fled, when the which was pillaged and desecrated by
monks killed him, and trumped up the Soult’s troops, and made a prison for
story of his Devil-death: the chapel galley-slaves by the Spaniards ; behind
and the statue were destroyed when it are the ruins of the house of Fer
the convent was burnt. nando, son of the great Columbus.
Do not fail to look at the extraor The suburb is called Los Hu/meros,
dinary Azulejo portal of Santa Paula, supposed to have been the site of the
of the time of the Catholic kings; the Roman naval arsenal. Here were the
carvings in the chapel are by Cano. tunnels and Moorish dock-yard, and
The French carried ofl' all the pictures. residence of fishermen. It is now
l Here are sepulchres
of Portugal, of Juan,
and Isabel his constable
wife, the tenanted by gipsies, the Zincali; Seville
in their Romany is called Ulilla and
founders. Safacoro, and the Guadalquiver, Len
The foundling hospital, or La Cuna, Baro, or the Great River. Zevya is
the cradle, as it is called in Spain, is in their darling city, where so much is
the Calle de la Ouna ; a marble tablet is congenial to their habits. Here always
thus inscribed, near an aperture left for resides some old hag who will get up a
charitable donations :—“ Quoniam pa- funoion, or gipsy dance (see ‘ Gather
ter meus et mater mea deliquerunt ings,’ p. 327). Hcrewillbe seen the dark
me Dominus autem assumpsit ” (Ps. eyed callees—ojo.v con granfnego y in
xxvii. 10). A wicket door, el torno, tencion—and their lovers, armed with
is pierced in the wall, which opens on shears, pa/ra monraba/r.Here lives tho
bein tapped, to receive the sinless true blood, the errata, who abhor the
chil ren of sin, whom a nurse sits up rest of mankind, the busné. Borrow’s
at night to take in. This, formerly little accurate vocabulary is the key to the
better than a charnel-house, and where gitanesqne heart, for according to him
sinless children of sin and innocents were they have hearts and souls. As the
massacred (see ‘Gatherings,’ p. 223), has existence of this work of the Gil Blas
been taken in charge by some benevolent of gipsies is unknown to them, they
ladies, assisted by Sisters of Charity, will be disarmed when they find the
and, although the shadow of death stranger speaking their own tongue;
still hovers over this so-caHed cradle thus those who have a wish to see the
of life, is better conducted : the inade fancy and main life at Seville, which is
quate funds are much increased, a duty much the fashion among many of the
of a real being levied for its support on young nobles, will possess la ale’ d/u
every fanega of corn sold in the market. crweau, and singular advantages. Our
Seville is surrounded with seven younger Britons must be eautigus, for,
4 K
202 norm: 7.—SEVlLLE——THE LEPERS. Sect. II.
as Cervantes says, “ These gipsies are ' 1284-: the term gafo, leper, the Hebrew
l utagood-for-nothing people, and only chaphaph, was one of the 5 actionable
born to pick and steal ;” they are “ fish- j defamatory words of Spanish law.
hooks of purses,” as Solorcano has it. Observe the terra cotta ornaments on
The pretty gipsy lasses are popular; 1 the Doric facade. The interior is
they trafiic on sure wants; they pro-,miserable, as the funds of this true
phesy money to Spanish men, and hus- V Lazar-house were either appropriated
bands to Spanish women ; and in spite ; by the government or converted by the
of their
stick withcheating
listenerswords, a little
who readily will i trustees
believe chiefly some
are generally to theirtwenty
own use. There
patients.
what they vehemently wish. Here will be seen cases of elephantiasis,
‘ the hideous swelled leg, a disease com
Turning to the rt., between the river
banks and the walls, is the Patin de las
‘ mon in Barbary and not rare in Anda
Damas, a raised rampart and planted ‘ lucia, and which is extended by the
walk, made in 1773. The city on this charity-imploring patient in the way of
side is much exposed to inundations. the passenger, whose eye is startled and
Opposite in its orange-groves is Mr. ‘pained by what at first seems a huge
Pickrnan’s pottery—once the celebrated icankered boa-constrictor. These hos
Cartuja convent ; beyond rise the towers ‘pitals were always placed outside the
of Italica and the purple hills of the ' cities : thus for this purpose our St.
Sierra Morena. James’s Palace was built; so, among
Passing the gate of San Juan is La the Jews, “ lepers were put out of the
Barqueta, or the ferry-boat. In the ' camp ” (Numb. v. 2). The plague
Chozas, opposite, true ichthyophiles go, stricken were compelled to dwell alone
like herons on the bank, to eat the shad, (Lev. xiii. 46). The word Lepero, at
Savalo, the Moorish Shebbel. Los Hue- , Mexico, is equivalent to “beggar.” He
cos and Savalo asado are the correctl is the Lazzarone of Naples, that Para
dise of idlers.
thing,bnt this rich fish is unwholesonie i
in summer. Here also El Sollo, the A Moorish causeway, raised in order
sturgeon, is caught, one of which the‘ to be a dam against inundations, leads
cathedralchapterusedtosendtotheroyal to La Macarena, the huge La Sa/ngre
table, reserving the many others for their . Hospital rising to the rt.; this is the
own. The walls now turn to the rt. Half suburb of the poor and agricultural
a mile outside is the once noble convent labourers. The tattered and parti
of St. Jerome, called, from its pleasant coloured denizens of all ages and sexes,
views, La Buena Vista. The fine church the children often stark naked, oétus du.
was used for the furnaces of a bottle climat as in Barbary, and like bronze
manufactory ; that has burst since, and Cupids, cluster outside their hovels in
become bankrupt, but the smoke black the sun. Their carts, implements, and
ening the sacred pile has left the mark animals are all pictures; observe the
of the beast ; it had previously been primitive carts, true plausfra, netted
turned into a school, which also failed. with esparto, and the patient resigned
The Patio, in Doric and Ionic worthy oxen with lustrous eye, so scriptural
of Herrera, was designed by two monks, and sculptural, and mark the flower
Bartolomé de Calzadilla and Felipe de adorned frontales between the horns ;
Moron, in 1603. Observe the spacious everything falls into a painter’s group,
red marble staircase, and the rich plas
a tableau vivant, and particularly as
ter pendentives to the ceilings in thei regards that Entomological Society
first floor leading to the mirador. , which forms by far the most numerous
Here Axataf took his last farewell of and national of Spanish naturalists;
Seville, when St. Ferdinand entered. they pursue certain “ small deer,” caza
Returning by gardens hedged with aloes ' manor, for which a regular battue is
and tall whispering canes, is San La always going on in the thick preserves
zaro, the Leper Hospital founded in! of the women’s hair. Here Murillo
Andalucia. norms 7.-sEvn.LE—LA saxens. 203
came for subject and colour ; here are recently somewhat improved in that
the rich yellows and browns in which respect, and much boasted of here.
he revelled ; here are beggars, imps, and Returning to the city walls, observe
urchins, squallid and squalling, who, la Barbacana, the Barbican, Arabice
with their parents, when simply tran Bab-el-cane, the gate of the moat, or
scribed by his faithful hand, seem to enclosure. The circumvallation all the
walk out of the frames, for their life and way to the gate of Oszzrio-—so called
reality carries every spectator away. because leading to the Moorish burial
Continuing the walk, turn l. to the gro und—and admirably preserved, is
enormous Hospital de la Sangre, or dc built of tapia, with square towers and
las cinco Llagas, the 5 bleeding wounds battlements, or almenas, which girdle
of our Saviour, which are sculptured Seville with a lace-like fringe. Near
like bunches of grapes. Blood is an the Cordova gate, and opposite the
ominous name for this house of San hermitage of San Hermenegildo, where
grado, whose lancet, like the Spanish Herrera el Viejo was imprisoned, is the
knife, gives little quarter ; neither does Capuchin convent of Santos Jmtimz
this low quarter, exposed to inunda and Rufina, built on the spot where
tions and consequent fevers, seem well the lions would not eat these ladies
chosen as a site for a hospital. This patronesses of Seville. The church
edifice was erected i.n 1546 by Martin was long adorned by the Murillos now
de Gainza and Hernan Ruiz. The in in the Museo; and rich was the treat
tention of the foundress, Catalina de in our day to see them all hanging as
Ribera, was more perfect than the per placed by the painter himself, with the
formance of her successors; after her bearded Cwpuckinos for ciceronis, who
death the funds were misapplied, only might have sat for the original monks,
a fourth part of the plan was finished, and who looked as if they stepped from
and the building remains, and may re the frames, of pictures, which they
main, unfinished, although a pious thus realised. Near the Puerta del Sol,
person, namedAndueza, has left legacies the most E. gate, are Los Ilrinita/rios
for the purpose. Descalzos, the site of the palace of Dio
The S. and principal facade, 600 ft. genianus, where the above-mentioned
long, presents a noble architectural Santas Justina and Rufina were put to
appearance of the classical Ionic and death. This fine convent was pillaged
Doric style. The portal is one of the and desecrated by Soult’s troops. Pass
good architectural bits in Seville. The ing the long fantastic salitres, the salt
interior Patio is striking; the hand petre manufactory, now abandoned and
some chapel occupics the centre; on going to ruin, the scene becomes more
the front are sculptured medallions of lively at the gate of Carmona. To the
Faith, Hope, and Charity, by Pedro l. is San Agustin, once full of Murillos;
Machuca ; the chapel is a Latin cross, M. Soult, having carried elf the best,
with Ionic pillars ; the Retablo of the gutted the convent, and destroyed the
high altar was designed by Ma-eda in magnificent sepulchres of the Ponce de
1600, and gilt by Alonso Vazquez, Leon family, and rifled the graves :
whose pictures in it have suffered from the tombs were restored in 1818 by the
neglect and repainting. Observe the Countess-Duchess of Osuna, and an
“ Crucifixion,” with the “Magdalen,” indignant record placed of these out
and eight Virgins, by Zurbaran, of no rages against the dead. Next, this con
great merit. Invalid pictures, at all vent was made a den of thieves, a prison
events, were not restored in this hos for galley-slaves, and is now become a
pital, asmany were used as floor-cloths. matting manufactory, not worth in
The interior management of this specting. This side of Seville sufl'ered
hospital, now the principal one of somewhat from the bombardment in
Seville, is hardly yet a thing of which July, 1s43.
Medical Spain can be proud, although The long lines of the aqueduct, Los
204 ROUTE 7.—SEVlLLE——LA BULA DE CRUZADA. Sect. II.

Cafio: do Ca/rmona, now run pictu III., to keep the Spanish crusaders in
rosquely up to the Ilumilladero or Cruz , fighting condition, by letting them eat
del Cam/po. It was to this spot in meat rations in Lent when they could
April that all the world used to go, to get them. This, the bull, la Bula, is
behold the Major return from the Feriu announced with grand ceremony every
de Mairena, before it was shorn of its January, when a new one is taken out,
glory. The next gate is la Carne, so like a game certificate, by all who wish
called because leading to the shambles. to sport with flesh and fowl with a safe
To the l. is the suburb San Bernardo, l conscience ; and by the paternal kind
which must bevisited ; the mounds of 1 ness of the Pope, instead of paving
earth are composed of the collected 3l. 13s. 6d., for the small sum of dos
heaps of Seville dust-holes ; a planted Y reales, 6d., a man, woman, or child
walk leads to the Fundicion, the low, lmay obtain this benefit of clergy and
large artillery-foundry erected by cookery : but woe awaits the uncertifi
Charles III., who employed one Ma cated poacher—treadmills for life are
ritz, a Swiss, to cast his cannon; once a farce—perdition catches his soul, the
one of the finest in Europe, now it is one last sacraments are denied to him on
of the very worst : power of motion is his deathbed; the first question asked
obtained by mules or rude maquinas de by the priest is not if he repents of his
sangre, engines of blood, not steam, and sins, but whether he has his bula ,~ and
murderous ls the waste of animal la in all notices of indulgences, &c., Se ha
bour. Soult reorganised this establish do tener la bula is appended. The bull
ment. Here were cast, by a Catalan, acts on all fleshly, but sinful comforts,
those mortars, a la Villantrois, with like soda on indigestion : it neutralizes
which Victor dld not take Cadiz, while everything except heresy. The contract
one of them was taken and now orna in 1846 was for 10,000 reams of paper
ments St. James’s Park. Soult, before to print them on at Toledo, and the sale
he fled, ordered as a parting legacy the produced about 200,000l. ; the breaking
foundry to be blown up, but the mine one fast during Lent used to inspire
accidentally failed. The furnaces were more horror than breaking any two
then filled with iron, and with those commandments ; it is said that Span
cannon which he could not remove; iards now fast less—but still the
but the amalgamated masses were sub staunch and starving are disgusted at
sequently got out by the Spaniards, Protestant appetites in eating meat
and remain as evidence of his culinary breakfasts during Lent. It sometimes
talents. The relic is called la torta disarms them by saying “ Tengo mi
Fwmcesa, or French omelette; a flint bula para todo.” M. ‘Soult robbed
was also placed in the wheel of a pow the till, burnt the printing-presses, and
der-mill, which, when set in motion, converted everything into a ruin (see
struck against a steel; and by this ‘Gatherings,’p. 243, and ‘ Compendio de
cowardly contrivance, Colonel Duncan las tres Gracias de la Santa Oruzada,’
and other men were blown to atoms. Fr“. Alonso Perez de Lara, Mad. 1610).
(C0ndcr’s ‘ Spain,’ 141.) The splen The Parroquia de San Bernardo
did cinque-cento artillery, cast in Italy contains a superb “Last Judgment,"
at a time when form and grace were ‘ by the dashing Herrera el Viejo ; a
breathed even over instruments of “ Last Supper,” in the Sacristia, by
death, were “removed” by Angouléme Varela, 1622 ; and a statue of the
in 1823. The Bourbon was the ally of “ Tutelar,” by Montafies, and others by
Ferdinand VIL; Soult was, at least, Roldan. Here also is the matadero,
his enemy. the slaughter-house, and close by Fer
In this suburb was the celebrated dinand VII. founded his tauromachian
Porto Celt‘ (Coeli), founded in 1450; university. These localities ‘are fre
here was printed the Bula de Cruzada, quented by the Seville fancy, whose
so called because granted by Innocent {favourite and classical dishes of a sort
Andafucia. noun: 7.—-SEVlLLE—EL BARATERO. 205

of tripe, ca llos y menudos, are here eaten Ba/rratry is derived from the medieval
in perfection. See Pliny, ‘ N. H.,’ viii. Ba/rrateria, which Ducange very pro
51, as to the merits of the Callum. perly interprets as “ cheating, foul
N.B. Drink manzanilla wine with these play.” Sancho’s sham government was
peppery condiments; they are highly of Ba/rateria; Baratar, in old Spanish,
provocative, and, like hunger, la Salsa meant to exchange unfairly, to thi.mble
de Sun Berna/rdo, are appropriately rig, to sell anything under its real
cooked in the parish of this tutelar value, whence the epithet barato, cheap.
of Spanish appetite. The sunny flats The Barateio is quite a thing of Spain,
under the old Moorish walls, which where personal prowess is cherished.
extend between the gates of Carmona There is a Buwafero in every regiment,
and La Cm-ne, are the haunts of idlers, ship, prison, and even among galley
Barateros, and gamesters. The lower slaves. For the Spanish knife, its use
classes of Spaniards are constantly and abuse, seezilbacete.
gambling at cards: groups are to be The open space beyond the Carne,
seen playing all day long for wine, and called el Rastro, presents a no less
love, or coppers, in the sun, or under national scene on the Sabado Santa,
their vine-trellises, capital groupings which may be considered a holiday
and studies for artists. There is gene equivalent to our Easter Monday.
rally some well-known cock of the walk, There and then the Paschal lambs are
a bully, or guaqao, who will come up and sold, or corzleros de Pascua, as Easter
lay his hand on the cards, and say, “ No is termed in Spanish. The bleating
one shall play here but with mine”-~ animals are confined in pens of netted
aqui no se juega sino aon mic barajas-_ rope-work; on every side the work of
If the gamblers are cowed, they give slaughter is going on ; gipsies erect
him dos cua/rtos, a halfpenny each. If, temporary shambles on this occasion ;
however, one of the challenged be a groups of children are everywhere
spirited fellow, he defies him. Aqui leading away pet lambs, which are de
no se cobra el barato sino con un pufial corated with ribbons and flowers. The
deA.lbacete—“ You get no change here amateur will see in them and in their
except out of an Albacete knife.” If attitudes the living originals fromwhich
the defiance be accepted, vamos alla is Murillo faithfully copied his St. Johns
the answer—“ Let’s go to it.” There is and the infant Saviour, el divine Pastor.
an end then of the cards: all flock to the This buying and selling continues from
more interesting éca/rte’. Instances have the Saturday until the end of Monday.
occurred, where Greek meets Greek, of The huge mounds of rubbish oppo
their tying the two advanced feet to site are composed of the accumulated
gether, and yet remaining fencing with dungholes of Seville, and under them
knife and cloak for a quarter of an are buried those who have died of
hour before the blow be dealt. The plagues, which these Immondezzaios are
knife is held firmly, the thumb is enough to render endemic ; they were
pressed straight on the blade, and cal allowed to accumulate, while the clergy
culated either for the cut or thrust, managed to suppress theatres to pre
to chip bread and kill men. vent recurrence of plague, a punishment
The term Barato strictly means the from heaven.
present which is given to waiters who Returning to the walls are the ca
bring a new pack of cards. The origin valry barracks, inwhich men,horses,and
is Arabic, Baa/ra, “ a voluntary gift ;” saddles are occasionally wanting. Now
in the corruption of the Bwratero, it the Alcazar towers above the battle
has become an involuntary one; now mented girdle of walls to the rt. The
the term resembles the Greek Bugalgu, classical gate, San Fernando, was built
homo perditus, whence the Roman in 1760 ; here it was that the Virgin
Balatrones, the ruiners of markets, l miraculously introduced St. Ferdinand
Barathrumque Macelli; our legal term into Seville during the siege.
206 ROUTE 7.—sEvn.Ls—T11E memos ma msxcos. Sect. II.

To the l. is the Fabrica de Tabacos, although a mania rages in Spain just


where tobacco is made into snufi' and now, of encouraging native talent, and
cigars. The edifice has 28 interior Spaniards are striving to do badly and
patios, and the enormous space covers dearly what elsewhere can be done
a quadrangle of 662 feet by 524. It better and cheaper. Essentially agri
was finished in vile taste in 1757 after cultural, and makers of nothing well
plans of one Vandembeer, a fantastic except paper cigars, with mistaken in
Dutchman. It is guarded by a moat, dustry they neutralize the giits of
not destined to prevent men getting in, Providence, and neglect their soil,
but cigars being smuggled out. This which produces easy and excellent raw
national manufactory may be said to produce, to force cotton-spinning, iron
be the only genuine and flourishing one founder-ies, manufactories, &c. Thus the
in Spain : it was fortified in 1836 tall British chimney rises on the ruins
against the Carlists, but the fighting of the Castilian convent belfry. The iron
ended in smoke. and engine works of Sefior Bonaplata,
There are sometimes as many as 4000 in the suppressed San Antonio, beat
persons employed in making cigars, Birmingham in_the eyes of the Boeti
and principally female: on an average cans ; but when it is added that there
2 millions of pounds are made in ayear. is no bank at Seville, the Manchester
A good workwoman can do in a day school will understand the petty, pal
from ten to twelve bundles, atados, each try, passive retail commerce of this
of which contains 50 cigars ; but their marvel city of Spain.
tongues are busier than their fingers, On the flat plain outside the walls,
and more mischief is made than cigars. called El Prado de San Sebastian, was
Few of them are good-looking, yet the Quemadero, or the burning-place
these cigarreras are among the lions of of the Inquisition, where the last act of
Seville, and, like the grisettes of Paris, the religious tragedy of the auto de fe
form a class of themselves. They are was left, with the odium, to be per
reputed to be more impertinent than formed by the civil power. The spot
chaste : they used to wear a particular of fire is marked by the foundations of
mantilla de tim, which was always a square platform on which the faggots
crossed over the face and bosom, allow were piled. Here, about 1781, a beam,
ing the upper part only of most roguish or female saint, was burnt, for taking
looking features to peep out. In the upon herself the hen and heretical oflice
under-floor a fine rappee snuif is made, of hatching eggs. Townsend, however,
called tabaco de fraile: it is coloured (ii. 342), says that she was very be
with red almagra, an earth brought witching, and had a successful mono
from the neighbourhood of Cartagena. mania for seducing clergyman.
These “pungent grains of titillating Elderly Spaniards are still very shy
dust” closely resemble the favourite of talking about the Quemadero ; sons
mixture of the Moors, and one comes of burnt fathers, they dread the fire.
out powdered as with rhubarb, and Con el Rey y la Inqmlsicion, clz/itonl
sneezing lustily. The use of tobacco, chiton! Hush! hush! say they, with
now so universal among all classes in finger on lip, like the image of Silence,
Spain, was formerly confined to this with King and Inquisition. As the
snuff, the sole solace of a celibate heavy swell of the Atlantic remains
clergy. The Duc de St. Simon (xix. after the hurricane is past, so distrust
125) mentions, in 1721, that the Gonde and scared apprehension form part of
de Lemos passed his time in s-making the uncommunicative Spaniard in
to dissipate his grief for having joined dealing with Spaniard. “How silent
the party of the Archduke Charles you are,” said the Empress of Russia to
“ chose fort extraordinaire en Espagne, Euler. “ Madam,” replied he, “ I have
oh on ne prend du tabac que par le nez.” lived in a country where men who
This is at least a national Fabrica, speak are hanged.” The burnings of
Andalusia. ROUTE 7.—SEVILLE——INQUISlTION. 207
i Montfort, the exterminator of the Pro
torrid Spain would have better suited
the temperature of chilly Siberia. testant Albigenses. It was remodeled
The eifects are, however, the same, = on Moorish principles, the ya/rrote and
and this engine of mystery hung over i furnace being borrowed from the bow
the nation like the sword of Damocles ; string and fire of the Moslem, who
invisible spies, more terrible than burnt the bodies of the infidels to pre
armed men, omnipresent, omniscient, vent the ashes from becoming relics
omnipotent, aimed at every attribute (Reinaud, ‘ Inv. des Sarasins,’ 145).
of the Almighty, save his justice and Spanish cities have contended for
mercy. It arrested the circulation of the honour of which was the first seat
life, and man’s heart trembled to hear of this holy tribunal, once the great
the sounds of his own beating. It glory and boast of Spain, and else
brooded like a nightmare on the body where her foul disgrace. This, says
and breath of the nation ; hence their Mariana (xxv. 1), was the secret of
dwarfed literature, and unsocial isola her invincible greatness, since “ the
tion. The dread of the Inquisition, instant the holy oflice acquired its due
from whence no secrets were hid,loeked power and authority, a. new light shone
up the Spanish heart, soured the sweet over the land, and, by divine favour,
charities of life, prevented frank and the forces of Spain became sufficient to
social communication, which relieves eradicate and beat down the Moor.”
and improves. Hospitality became Seville was the first and the head
dangerous, when confidence might quarters of these bright fires. The
open the mind, and wine give utter great claim put forth in 1627 for the
ance to long-hidden thought. Such beatification of St. Ferdinand was, that
was the fear-engendered silence under he had carried faggots himself to burn
Roman tyranny, as described by Tacitus heretics. But the spirit of the age was
(Agr. ii.) : “ Adempto per inquisitiones then fanatically ferocious. Thus Philip
et loquendi et audiendi commercio, le Bel, his cousin, and son of St. Louis,
memoriam quoque ipsam cum voce tortured and burnt the Templars
perdidissemus, si tam in nostril. potes by a slow fire near his royal garden;
t-ate esset oblivisci quam tacere.” and our Henry’s writ de heretico
It is as well, therefore, here as else comburendo, and approved of by Coke
where, to avoid jesting or criticism on (iii. Inst. 5) pro salute animse—out of
this matter; Con el ojo y la fe, mmca regard for the soul of the burnt man—
me Imrlaré. Spaniards, who, like Mos was only abolished by Charles II. The
lems, allow themselves a wide latitude holy tribunal was first fixedly estab
in laughing at their priests, are very lished at Seville in 1481, by Sixtus IV.,
touchy on every subject connected with at the petition of Ferdinand, who used
their creed; however enlightened now it as an engine of finance, police, and
a-days, it is a remnant of the loathing revenge. He assigned to it the Domi
of heresy and their dread of a tribunal nican convent of St. Paul, and when
which they think sleepeth, but is not that was found too small for the num
dead, scotched rather than killed. In ber of its inmates, gave it the citadel of
the changes and chances of Spain it Triana. This tribunal, judge, jury, and
may be re-established, and, as it never executioner of its victim, was too truly
forgets or forgives, it will surely re a thing of Spainnot to root and flourish
venge, and the spirit of the Inquisition in a congenial soil. Lay pride allied
is still ialive, for no king, cortes, or itself to such a religion, the grandces
constitution ever permits in Spain any held oflice both from bigotry, love of
approach to any religious toleration. new titles, and self security, by becom
i faith,
Thebigotry,
Inquisition,
confiscation,
a tribunal
blood, bad ing members of the dreaded system.
of and
Tomas do Torquemada was the first
fire, was initiated by St. Dominick, high-priest who carried out, to use
who learnt his trade under Simon de Bossuet’s mild phrase, “ the holy se
208 noura 7.—SEVILLE—CEMETERY. Sect. II.

verity of the church of Rome which is allowed to enter; nay, the ortho
will not tolerate error." According ‘ dox canons of the cathedral have a
to the best authorities, from 1481 tof separate quarter from the laity. Bu
1808, the Holy Tribunal of Spain ‘ rial out of towns—a hygienic neces
burnt 34,612 persons alive, 18,048 sity——was vehemently opposed by 'the
in efligy, and imprisoned 288,109 Spanish clergy, who lost their fees, and
but these vast numbers are questionable ‘ assured their flocks that those interred
—the goods and chattels of every one out of their parish churchyard, would
of them being first duly confiscated.‘ risk the neither resting in their graves,
In addition to these victims it entailed, nor rising at the resurrection. The cata
to poor, uncommercial, indolent Spain, comb system is here adopted : a niche
the expulsion of her wealthy Jews, and is granted for 80 reals for 6 or 7 years,
her most industrious agriculturists, the and the term can be renewed (preroga
Moors. The dangerous engine, when do) by a new payment. A large grave
the supply of victims was exhausted,~, or ditch is opened every day, into
recoiled on the nation, and fitted it for which the bodies of the poor are cast
that yoke, heavy and grievous, under like dogs, after being often first stripped
which for three centuries it has done by the sextons even of their rags.
penance; the works of Llorente have This cemetery should be visited on
fully revealed the secrets of priestcraft the last night of October, or All Hal
in power. The best account of an i lowe’en, and the vigil of All Saints’
Auto de Fe is the ofiicial report of José day; and again on Nov. 2, the day of
del Olmo, 4to., published at Madrid in All Souls, when all the town repairs
1680. there. It is rather a fashionable pro
Near the Quemadero is San Diego, a menade than a religious performance.
suppressed Jesuit convent, and given The spot is crowded with beggars, who
in 1784 to Mr. Wetherell, who was appeal to the tender recollections of
tempted by Spanish promises to ex one’s deceased relations and friends.
change the climate of Snow Hill, Hol Outside, a busy sale of nuts, sweet
born, for torrid Andalucia. Towns meats, and cakes takes place, andacrowd
hend 325) gives the details. This of horses, carriages, and noisy children,
intelligent gentleman, having been the all vitality and mirth, which must vex
first to establish a tannery with steam the repose of the blessed souls even
machinery in Spain, was ruined by the in purgatory (see ‘Gatherings,’ p. 250).
bad faith of the government, which Returning from San Sebastian to
failed in both payments and promises. Seville, the change from death at the
The property has now passed by a Pnerta de Xerez is striking: here all
Spanish trick into other hands, the is life and flower. This quarter, once
court of appeal having been induced tothe dunghill of the city, was converted
allow a false deed, or Escritura. Mr. into a Paradise by Jose Manuel Ar
Wetherell lics buried in his garden, jona, in 1830. This, the last Asistente
surrounded by those of his countrymen of SeviJle—ultimus Roman0rum—was
who have died in Seville: requiescant. its Augustus 1 to him are owing almost
in pace! The scene of a countryman’s all of the many modern improvements,
grave cut ofl’ in a foreign land is affect paving, lighting, cleansing, &c. The
ing, and doubly so to those who have principal walk was laid out by him in
left here a branch of themselves ; pull honour of Christina, then the young
out, therefore, the nettle which has no bride of Ferdinand VII. El Salon
business to grow here.—R. F. is a raised central saloon, with stone
On the other side of the plain was the seats around. In the afternoon and
great city cemetery of San Sebastian, evening all the “rank and fashion”
now moved N. not to offend the In assemble to promenade here. Beyond,
fanta who lived near it. Into this Ro along the bank of the river, are Lac
manist Necropolis no heretic, if dead, Delicias, a charming ride and walk.
Andalucia. ROUTE 7.—SEVILLE-—TORRE DEL ORO. 209

Here is the botanical garden, and truly by the Almohades, who called it
delicious are these nocturnal strolls. Bmju d-dahab, “the tower of gold,"
Night in the south is beautiful of itself. because their treasure was kept in it;
The sun of fire is set, and a balmy now it is only gilded by sunsets. It
breeze fans the scorched cheek: now was used by Don Pedro el Cruel, as 0.
the city which sleeps by day awakes to prison for his enemies and his mis
life and love, and bright eyes sparkle tresses. The Spaniards have built a
brighter than the stars. The semi sentry-box on the top of this Moorish
obscure, not too dark for them, hides tower, where their red and yellow flag
poverty and decay, and pleasant it is occasionally is hoisted.
to listen to the distant hum of the Passing on is the Aduana or Custom
guitar, and think that a whole town is house, a hotbed of queer dealings, which
harry lies between the Postigos de Ca/rbon and
At the land side of the walk is a del Aceite; inside are some pretty
huge pile of churrigueresque, long the Prout-like old houses for the artist.
nautical college of San Telmo, the pa Close by are “ the Atarazanas,” the
tron of Spanish sailors, who, when the Dar-san’-ah, or house of construction
storm is going to be over, appears at of the Moors, whence the Genoa term
the mast-head with a lambent flame. darsena, and our word arsenal. The
It was founded by Fernando, son of present establishment was founded by
Columbus, and built in 1682, by Anto Alonso el Sabio, and his Gotho-Latin
nio Rodriguez. Here the middies were inscription still remains imbedded in
taught navigation in a room, from a the wall near the C'a/ridad hospital.
small model of a three-decker. When Observe the blue azulqjos, said to be
the nautical college was removed to from designs by Murillo, who painted
Cadiz, as somewhat a sinecure, the the glorious pictures for the interior
Spanish fleet being a myth, the Duke (see p. 190). This modern arsenal,
of Montpensier and the Infanta bought which generally is miserably provided,
the building, and have very much im is never worth inspection: it is not
proved it, inside and outside. better provided with instruments for
The Puerta de Xerez, said to be built inflicting death than the wards of
by Hercules (Hercules meedg'fic0', p. 169), La Sangre are with those for preserving
was at all events rebuilt by the infidel. life. Misgoverned, ill-fated Spain,
Now the arroyo Tagarete reappears. which, in her salitrose table-lands, has
This rivulet, or rather Fleet-ditch, “villainous saltpetre” enough to blow
winds round the E. and W. sides of up the world, and copper enough at
Seville, and here empties itself and its Rio 'I‘into and at Berja to sheathe the
impurities into the Guaclalquivir. The Pyrenees, is of all countries the worst
filthy contents of this open sewer de provided in ammunition and artillery,
composing under the sun breed fever whether it be a batterie de cuisine or
and unhealthiness. Any real board of de citadel.
health would order it instantly to be Adjoining the arsenal is the quarter
covered over. The Moorish walls of the dealers of bacalao or salted cod
which hang over this stinking Styx fish. “You may nose them in the
once were painted in fresoo. Up to lobby.” This article long formed a
1821 they connected the Alcazar with most important item in national food.
the outpost river-guarding tower, called The numerous religious corporations,
Lajtorre del Ora, “of gold,” to dis and fast-days, necessarily required this,
tinguish it from La Torre de Plata, for fresh-water fish is rare, and sea
that “ of silver,” which lies nearer the; fish almost unknown, in the great cen
mint. These fine names are scarcely‘ tral para/meras of the Peninsula. The
sterling, both being built of Moorish shrivelled dried-up cod-fish is easily
tapia. The former one, most absurdly conveyed on muleback into uncarriage
ascribed to Julius Caesar, was raised able recesses. It is much consumed,
210 noun: 7.—SEVlLLE—PLAZA on TOROS. Sect. II.

mixed with rice, still all along thelcarts and carters resort; and also
tierra caliente, or warm zone of Spain, el Baratillo, the “little chepe,” from
Alicante being the port for the S. E., being a rag-fair, and place for the sale
as Seville is for the S. portions: ex of marine stores or stolen goods.
posed to the scorching sun, this salt Accordingly, the new public prison is
fish is anything but sweet, and our not ill placed here, on the site of the
readers when on a journey are cau old convent, del Populo. Near this is
tioned not to eat it, as it only creates the Plaza de Toms, which is a fine
an insatiable thirst, to say nothing of amphitheatre, and will hold more than
the unavailing remorse of a non-digest 12,000 spectators, although injured by
ing stomach. Leave it therefore to a hurricane in 1805 and unrepaired,
the dura ilia and potent solvents of especially on the cathedral side, which
muleteer gastric juices. At all events at least lets in the Giralda and com
it ought to be put many hours al pletes the picture, when the setting
remqjo, to soak in water, which takes sunrays gild the Moorish tower as
out the salt and softens it. The Car the last bull dies, and the populace
thaginians and ancients knew this so few nondu/m Zas.s'aia—unwillingly retire.
well that the first praise of a good cook This Plaza is underthe superintendence
was Scit muriatica ut maceret (Plaut. of the Maestranza of Seville. This
‘Poen.’ i. 2, 39). equestrian society of the highest rank
In this piscatose corner of Seville, was formed in 1526, to encourage tour
poverty delights to feed on the Ori naments and the spirit of chivalry
ental cold fried fish, and especially then wearing out; now the chief end
slices of large fioundcrs, whiting, and is the wearing a scarlet uniform.
small bits of bacalao fried i.n yolk of Tauromachian travellers will remem
eggs, called familiarly Soldads de ber the day before the fight to ride out
Pavia, because yellow was the uniform to Tablada to see the ganado, or what
of that regiment, and possibly in re cattle the bulls are, and go early the
membrance of the deficient commis next day to witness the encierro ; be
sariat of the victors of that day. Thesure also at the show to secure a boletin
lower classes are great fish-eaters: tode sombra in a balcon de1n'ed1'a,i. e.
this the fasts of their church and their
a good seat in the shade.
poverty conduce. They seldom boil Leaving the Plaza, we now approach
it, except in oil. Their principle is,el Rio, the River Strand, where a petty
when the fish has once left its native trafiic is carried on of fruit, mattings,
element, it ought never to touch it and goods brought up in barges; so
again. Here, as in the East, cold much for the scanty commerce of a
broiled fish is almost equivalent to meat city thus described four centuries ago
(St. Luke, xxiv. 4-2). by our pilgrim (Purchas, 1232) :—
_ Next observe the heraldic gate, del " Civyle! graund! that is so fre,
Arenal, of the Strand, and a sort of A paradise it is to behold,
Temple Bar; the contiguous streets The frutez vines and spicery thee I have told
have long been inhabited by denizens Upon the haven all manner of merchandise,
And karekes and schippes of all device."
of indifferent reputation; here the
rogue of a Ventero in Don Quixote was Here the hungry tide-waiters look out
educated; here Cervantes placed the for bribes, and an ofiicial post-captain
school of Jllonapodio, who in his Rin pompously announces the arrival of a
conete y Cortadillo, “ Hole-and-corner stray smack. A rude boat-bridge here
man and cut-purse,” gave the idea for ages stemmed the Guadalquivir,
of Fagin and “artful dodger” to and was at once inconvenient in pas
Dickens; but nothing is new under sage and expensive in repair: formerly
the sun, not even thimble-rigging, it was a ferry, until Yusuf abu Yacub
¢¥i¢wrmZm. The open space in front first threw across some barges Oct. 11,
is called la Ca/rreteria, because here 1171, by which the city was provi
Andalusia. noun: 7.—SEVILLE—-TRIAXA. 211
sioned from the fertile Ajamfe ,- the by the dficion, by fancy men and Majos,
destruction of this communication by who love low company: this is the
St. Ferdinand led to the surrender of i place to behold a funcion de gitanos,
Seville. This bridge of boats has been got up in all the glory of Gaditanian
for ages a source of profit to the com dancing, jaleos y arafias, an fesiejo de
missioners, who have received funds genie buena con muchissimo mostagan.
suflicient to have built one of marble : - To the rt., on crossing the bridge,
a suspension bridge has since been are some remains of the once formi
erected, and was inaugurated in June, dable Moorish castle, which was made
1852, and blessed by the priests. The ' the first residence of the Inquisition,
people at first were afraid to cross the the cradle of that fourth Fury. The
heretical bridge——a puente del Dialzlo, Guadalquivir, which blushed at the
or del Ingles, although the first ston fires and curdled with the bloodshed,
was sanctified by the Dean. - almost swept away this edifice in 1626,
Next observe el T1-imgfo, a monu as if indignant at the crimes committed
ment common in Spanish towns, and on its bank. The tribunal was then
raised in honour of the triu/mph ob moved to the Calle San Marcos, and
tained by the advocates of the Imma afterwards to the Alameda Viqja. The
culate Conception; a statue of the ruined castle was afterwards taken
Virgin and local tutelars are usually down, and the site converted into the
placed on the erection ; the Doric gate present market.
which here leads into the town is The parish church, Santa An/na, was
called la Puerta de Triana, because built by Alonso el Sabio, in 1276 : the
facing that suburb: it was erected in image of the “ Mother of the Virgin,”
1588, and is attributed to Herrera. in the high altar, is a Virgen aparecida,
The upper story was used as a state or a divinely revealed palladium, and
prison—a Newgate: here the Conde is brought out in public calamities, but
del Aguila, the Msecenas of Seville, as a matter of etiquette it never crosses
was murdered by the patriots, urged the bridge, which would be going out
on by the Catiline Tilli (see Schep. i. of its parochial jurisdiction: in the
269, and Doblado’s Letters. p. 439). Trascoro is a curious Virgin, painted
The plain beyond was formerly el and signed by Alejo Fernandez ; in the
Perneo, or the pig-market ; during the plateresque Retablo are many fine
cholera, in 1833, the unclean animals Campanas, especially a “St. George,”
were removed to the meadows of the which has much of a G-iorgione. The
virgin patronesses Justa and Rufina, statues and bas-reliefs are by Pedro
behind San Agustin, and the space Delgado. Visit the church Nuastra
made into an esplanade: now re-enter Sefiora del O; many females are here
ing by the Puerta Real, the circuit is christened with this vowel. Great
concluded. quantities of coarse azulqjo and Zoza,
Of course the traveller will ride out earthenware, are still made here as in
some day to Alcald de Guadaira (see the days of Santas Justa and Rufina.
p. 159). The naranjales, or orange-gardens, are
A smaller and home circuit should worth notice. The principal street is
also be made on the rt. bank of the called tle Castilla .- here the soap
Guadalquivir, crossing over to the makers lived, whence our term Castile
suburb Triana, the Moorish Taray soap. (?) There is a local history, “Apa
anah,_a name supposed to be a cor rato rle Triana,” Justino Matute, Se
ruption from Trajana, Trajan having villa-, 1818.
been born near it, at Italica. It is the To the rt., a short walk outside Tri
Trzmstevere of Seville, and the favourite ana, and on the bank cf the river, is the
residence of gipsies, bull-fighters, smug Cartuja Convent, dedicated to Nuestm
glers, robbers, and other picturesque. Sefiora de las Cuevas, and begun in
rascals; hence it is much frequented 1400 by Arch. B. Mena: the funds left
212 noun: 7.——SEVILLE—THE camera. Sect. II.
by him were seized by the Government, assert that the poet Silius Italicus was
always needy and always unprincipled. born here ; but then the epithet would
Finished by Pier Afan de Ribera, it have been Italicensis: his birth-place
became a museum of piety, painting, is unknown ; probably he was an
sculpture, and architecture, until el Italian, for Martial, his friend, never
iiempo de los Franceses, when, accord alludes to his being a paisano, or
ing to Laborde, 263, “ Le Ml. Soult fellow-countryman. From his admi
en fit une excellente cit-adelle, dent ration and imitation of Virgil he was
l’Eglise devint le magasin; la Biblio called his ape. To the Spanish anti
theque ne valoit rien ; elle a servi pour quarian he is valuable from having in
faire des gargousses ” (cartridges) ; un troduced so many curious notices in
like our Essex at Cadiz in 1596, who his Punica. Pliny J’. (Ep. 7) thus
ordered the fine Ora/rio library to be pre justly describes his style: Silius scribe
served, and gave it to Bodley, and many bat carmina majore cum‘ quam ingenio.
of thebooks are stillpreserved at Oxford; Italica was preserved by the Goths,
the silver full-length saints, San Bruno, and made the see of a bishop : Leovi
&c., were melted by Soult into francs. gild, in 584, repaired the walls when he
Sequestered latterly, and sold, the con was besieging Seville, then the strong
vent has been turned into a pottery by hold of his rebel son Hermenigildo.
Mr. Pickman, a worthy Englishman, The name Italica was corrupted by the
who, not making the chapel his maga Moors into Talikah, Talca ; and in old
zine, has preserved it for holy purposes. deeds the fields are termed los ca/mpos
Now the drones are expelled, the block de Talca, and the town Seville lw 'v'iq;'a.
of the convent is the hive of busy ce The ruin of Italica dates from the river
ramic bees, originally swammed in Eng having changed its bed, a common trick
land. Mr. Pickman, a foreigner, warned in wayward Spanish and Oriental
by Mr. VVetherall’s fate, took into part streams. Thus Gour, once on the
nership certain natives. Observe the Ganges, is now deserted. The Moors
fine rose window in the facade, and the soon abandoned a town and “a land
stones recording the heights of frequent which the rivers had spoiled,” and
inundations ; inquire in the garden for selected Seville as a better site ; and
the old burial-ground, where foreigners ever since the remains have been used
now rest, and the Gothic inscription of as a quarry. Consult “ Bosquejo de
the age of Hermenegildo. N.B. Its Italica,” Justine Matute, Sevilla, 1827 ;
oranges are delicious. 4177.
and forOfthe
these
medals,
many,
Florez,
chiefly“ Med.,”
copper or
Following the banks of a stream we
reach the miserable village of Santi small silver coins, are found and offered
Ponce, a corruption from the name of for sale to foreigners by the peasants,
San Geroncio, its Gothic bishop, or, who, with a view of recommending
according to others, of Santa P020, the their wares, polish them bright, and
“holy wellz” it was the once ancient rub oil‘ the precious bloom, the patina
Italica, the birthplace of the Emperors and nerugo, the sacred rust of twice ten
Trajan, Adrian, and Theodosius ; it hundred years.
was founded U.o. 5/L7, on the site of the . On Dec. 12, 1799, a fine mosaic
Iberian town Sancios, by Scipio Afri pavement was discovered, which a poor
canus, and destined as a home for his monk, named Jose Moscoso, to his
veterans (App. “B. H.” 463). It was honour, enclosed with a wall, in order
adorned by Adrian with sumptuous to save it from the usual fate in Spain.
edifices. The citizens petitioned to Didot, in 1802, published for Laborde
become a Colonic, that is, subject to a splendid folio, with engravings and
Rome, instead of remaining a free description. The traveller will find a
Municipium .- even Adrian was sur copy in the cathedral library in the
prised at this Andalucian servility Patio de Zos Naramjos, at Seville. Now
(Aul. Gell. xvi. 13). Many Spaniards this work is all that remains, for the
Anda-lucia. noun; 7.—SEVILLE—ITALICA. 213
soldiers of M. Soult converted the in 1570, and the body of thegood man,
enclosure into a goat-pen. according to Matute (p. 156), “ found
The amphitheatre lies outside the almost entire, and nine feet high;”
old town. On the way ruins peep out here lies also Doiia Uraca Osorio, with
amid the weeds and olive-groves, like her maid Leonora Davalos at her feet.
the grey bones of dead giants. The She was burnt alive by Pedro the Cruel
amphitheatre, in 1774.~, was used by the for rejecting his addresses. A portion
corporation of Seville for river dikes, of her chaste body was exposed by
and for making the road to Badajoz. the flames which consumed her dress,
See the details, by an eye-witness, whereupon her attendant, faithful in
“ Viaje Topografico des-de Granada ¢i death, rushed into the fire, and died in
.Disb0a,” duo. 1774, p. 70. The form concealing her mistress.
is, however, yet to be traced, and the The Feria de Santi Ponce, in the
broken tiers of seats. The scene is sad beginning of October, is the Green
and lonely ; read in it by all means the wich fair of Seville, and all the rage
sweet ode by Rioja. A few gipsies just now: then booths are erected in
usually lurk among the vaults. The = the ancient bed of the river, which
visitors scramble over the broken seats becomes a scene of Mqjeza and their
of once easy access, frightening the , Jaleos.The holiday folk, in all their
large and glittering lizards or Lagarios, Andalucian finery, return at nightfall
which hurry into the rustling brambles. in Carreias filled with Gitanas y Cor
Behind, in a small valley, a limpid raleras, while los majos y los de la
stream still trickles from a font and still aficlon (fancy) vuelven 6 caballo, con
tempts the thirsty traveller, as it once sus queriditas en ancas. Crowds of
did the mob of Italica when heated the better classes come or used to come
with games of blood. out to see this procession, and sit on
The rest of Italica either sleeps chairs in the Calle de Castilla, which
buried under the earth, or has been resounds with requiebros, and is en
carried away by builders. To the west livened with exhibitions of small horns
are some vaulted brick tanks, called made of ba/rro, the type of the Cornudo
La Ca-ya de los Baiios. They were the paciente of Seville; the civilization of
reservoirs of the aqueduct brought by the coat, alas ! is effacing these nation
Adrian from Tejada, 7 L. distant. alities ; already the females are quitting
Occasionally partial excavations are ‘ their charming costume for bonnets 6
made, but all is done by fits and starts, la Francoise and Manchest cottons ;
and on no regular plan: the thing is then with their dark faces, white gowns,
taken up and put down by accident and gaudy ribbons, they put one in
and caprice, and the antiques found are mind of May-day chimney-sweeps.
usually of a low art. The site was pur The traveller may return from Ita
chased, in 1301, by Guzman el Bueno, lica to Seville by a different route,
(see p. 149,) who founded the castellated keeping under the slopes of the hills :
convent San Isidoro as the burial-place opposite Seville, on the summit to the
of his family. The sacred pile, built rt., is Castileja de la Cuesla, from
like those in Syria, and near the infidel, whence the view is fine and extensive.
half fortress and half convent, was Here, at No. 66, Calle Real, lived
gutted and ruined by Soult on his Fernan Cortes, and died Dec. 2, 1547,
final evacuation of Andalucia, and next aged 63, a broken-heart-ed victim, like
was made a prison for galley slaves. Ximenez, Columbus, Gonzalo de Cor
The chapel is, however, preserved for dova, and others, of his king’s and
the village church. Observe the sta country’s ingratitude. He was first
tues of San Isidoro and San Jeronimo buried in San Isidoro at Italica, until
by Montafies,and the efiigies of Guzman his bones, like those of Columbus,
and his wife, who lie buried beneath, after infinite movings and changings
date from 1609. The tomb was opened of sepulture, at last reached Mexico,
214 noun: 7.—SEVILLE—-ORANGES. Sect. II.

the scene of his glories and crimes delicious orange-flower water; buy it
during life; not however doomed to rest at Aquilar’s, Plaza San Vicente ,~ nice
even there, for in 1823 the local patriots sweetnieats are made of them by the
intended to disinter the foreigner, and nuns ; to eat the orange in perfection,
scatter his dust to the winds. They it should not be gathered until the new
were anticipated by pious fraud, and blossom appears. The oranges begin
the illustrious ashes removed to a new to turn yellow in October, and are
abode, where, if the secret be kept, then picked, as they never increase in
they may at last find rest. size after changing colour; they are
Keeping/the hill Uhaboya to the rt., wrapped in Catalan paper, and acked
we reach San Juan de Atfa/rache, Hisn in chests, which contain from O0 to
al-faraj, “of the fissure or cle ;” it 1000 each, and may be worth to the
was the Moorish river key of Seville, exporter from 25s. to 308. They ripen
and the old and ruined walls still on the voyage, but the rind gets tough,
crown the heights. This was the site and the freshness of the newly-gathered
of the Roman Julia Constantia, the fruit is lost. The natives are very fan
Gothic Osset, and the scene of infinite ciful about eating them: they do not
aqueous miracles during the Arian think them good before March, and
controversy : a font yet remains in the . poison if eaten after sunset. The
chapel. Read the inscription concern vendors in the street cry them as mas
ing the self-replenishing of water every zlulces que abmiba/r, sweeter than syrup,
Thursday in the Semana Santa; con like the “ Honey, oh! oranges honey”
sult the quarto Sobre la milagrosa of the Cairo chapmen.
fuente, by Josef Santa Maria, Sev. 1630, Toma, nifia, esa narnnja,
and the Esp. Sa_g., ix. 117. Strabo, Que la cogi de mi huerta;
however (iii. 261), points out among No la parlas con navnja
Que esta mi corazon dentro.
the marvels of Beetica certain wells and
fountains which ebbed and flowed spon The village below the hill of Alfa
taneously. Observe the Retablo, with rache, being exempt from the odious
pictures by Castillo, which originally Derecho dc louertas, and being a plea
existed in the San Juan de la Palma. sant walk, is frequented on holidays
The panorama of Seville, from the by the Sevillian s, who love cheap drink,
convent parapet, is charming. On the &c. Those who remember what pre
opposite side of the river is the fine ceded the birth of El Picaro Guzman
Na/ra/njal or orange-grove of the house de Alfarache—a novel so well trans
of Beck, which is worth riding to. lated by Le Sage—may rest assured
“ Seville,” says Byron, and truly, “is that matters are not much changed.
a pleasant city, famous for oranges and Gelves, Gelduba, lies lower down the
women.” There are two sorts of the river. This village gives the title of
former, the sweet and the bitter (Ara Count to the descendants of Colum
bicé Na/rang, unde Naranja), of which bus: the family sepulchre is left in
Scotch marmalade is made and Dutch disgraceful neglect.
Curaqoa flavoured. The trees begin to
bear fruit about the sixth year after Exounsron TO AN OLIVE-FARM. ‘
they are planted, and the quality con The olives and oil of Bsetica were
tinues to improve for 16 to 20 years, celebrated in antiquity, and still form
after which the orange degenerates, a staple and increasing commodity of
the rind gets thick, and it becomesAndalucia. The districts between Se
unfit for the foreign market, which ville and Alcalii, and in the Ajarafe,
always takes the best. The trees flower are among the richest in Spain: an
in March, and perfume the air of Seville excursion should be made to some
with the almost sickening odour which large Hacienda in order to examine
retains its Arabic name Azahar ; from the process of the culture and the ma
the blossoms sweetmeats are made, and nufacture, which are almost identical
Andalucia. acorn 7.—SEVILLE—OLIVE FARM. 215

with those described by Varro, Colu wife and sisters drive the laden donkeys
mella, and Pliny. Formerly Seville to the mill. The ancients never beat
was surrounded with splendid Hacien the trees (Plin. Nat. Hist. xv. 3). The
das, which combined at once a country berries are emptied into a vat, El
house, a village, and oil-manufactory: tmjal, a‘nd are not picked and sorted,
the fiestas, y comzites de campo, kept as Columella (xii. 50) enjoined. The
here by the wealthy proprietors, were careless Spaniard is rude and un
celebrated before the ruin entailed by scientific in this, as in his wine-making ;
Buonaparte’s invasion, as few have been he looks to quantity, not quality. The
able to restore their ravaged esta berries are then placed on a circular
blishments. \Vhole plantations of hollowed stone, over which another is
olives wereburnt down by Soult’ s troops, moved by a mule; the crushed mass,
while our Duke issued strict orders horujo, bomjo, is shovelled on to round
forbidding this ruinous practice; mat mats, czmuchos, made of esparto, and
ters are, however, mending, thanks to taken to the press, eZ trujal, which is
the great exports of oil to England. forced down by a very long and
San Ba/riolomé, a farm belonging to weighty beam (the precise Biga, Tra
the Paterna family, may be visited as petum, slaw Tplcimfl), composed of 6 or
a fine specimen of a first-rate Haci 7 pine-trees, like a ship’s bowsprit,
enda; it contains about 20,000 trees, over which, in order to resist the
each of which will yield from 2 to 3 strain, a heavy tower of maso is
bushels of olives; the whole produce built; a score of frails of the borugo
averages 5000 arrobas (of 25 lb.), which is placed under the screw, moistened
vary in price from 2 to 5 dollars. The with hot water, which is apt to make
olive-tree, however classical, is very the oil rancid. The liquor as it
unpicturesque ; its ashy leaf on a pol flows out is passed into a reservoir
larded trunk reminds one of a second below ; the residuum comes forth
rate willow-tree, while it aifords neither like a damson-cheese, and is used for
shade, shelter, nor colour. fuel and for fattening pigs; the oil
The trees are usually planted in as it rises on the water is skimmed
formal rows: a branch is cut from the I off, and poured into big-bellied earthen
parent in January ; the end is opened | jars, tinajas, and then removed into
into 4 slits, into which a. stone is lstill larger, which are sunk into the
placed; it is then planted, banked, ground. These amphoraz, made cliiefiy
and watered for 2 years, and as it at Coria, near Seville, recall the jars of
grows is pruned into 4 or 5 upright the forty thieves ; some will hold from
branches: they begin to pay the ex 200 to 300 arrobas, i.e. from 800 to
pense about the 10th year, but do not 1200 gallons. ~ \
attain their prime before the 30th. The oil, aceite (Arabice azzait), is
The best soils are indicated by the strong and unctuous, and the real juice
wild-olive (oleaster, acebuche), on which of the berry, and not equal perhaps in
cuttings are grafted, and produce the delicacy to the purer, finer produce of
finest crops (Virgil, G. 182). The Lucca, but the Spaniards, from habit,
Spaniards often sow corn in their think the Italian oil insipid. The
olive grounds, contrary to the rule of second-class oils are coarse, thick, and
Columella, for it exhausts the soil, green-coloured, and are exported for
clmpa la tierra. soap-making or used for lamps. Can
The berry is picked in the autumn, dles are rare in Spain, where the an
when it is purple-coloured and shining, cient lamp, el celon or candil (Arabice
baccae splendentis divse : then the scene » lcamleel), prevail, and are exactly such
is busy and picturesque; the peasant, as are found at Pompeii; the growers of
clad in sheep-skins, is up in the trees ' oil petitioned against lighting Spanish
like a satyr, beating off the fruit, while towns with gas, “lamps being prefer
his children pick them up, and his ; able to this thing of the foreigner.” A
l
ir

216 ROUTE 8.—-snvn.1.n TO mo rmro. Sect. Il.

large farm is a little colony; the la are now worked by the Reunion
bourers, fcd by the proprietor, are Company.
allowed bread, garlic, salt, oil, vinegar,
and pimientos, which they make into
migaa and oriental gazpacho (Arabice,
soaked bread), without which, in the Rourn 8.—Ssv1LI.n TO R10 Tmro
burning summers, their “ souls would AND ALMADEN.
be dried away” (Numb. xi. 6). Bread, 1-‘
oil, and water was a lover’s gift (Hosea
Venta de Pajanosa $52
Algarrobo . . . . .
ii. 5). The oil and vinegar are kept Castillo de has Guardias . GOIQDJO-7fllU\|FB)—*GpI-'U\9 Ii-7
in cow-horns (“the horn of oil,” 1 Sam. Rio Tinw .
Aracena . . .
xvi. 13), which hang at their cart sides. Fuentes fie Leon
Tlllfl daily allowance, Eurlouvlav ‘H;4:eo Segura de Leon.
'rea¢)1;, Choeniar, corresponds minutely Valencia. . . .
Fuente de Cantos .
with the usages of antiquity as described Llerena . .
by Cato (R. R. 56), and Stuckius Guadalcanal,
(Antliq. Conviv. i. 22; ed. 1695). The Fuente Ovejuna
use of oil is of the greatest antiquity Velalcazar .
Almaden . .
(Job xxiv. 2) : it supplies the want of Santa Eufemia . . . .
fat in the lean meats of hot climates. Al viso de los Pedroches .
Villanueva del Duque.
The olive forms the food of the Vlllahartc. or Villarta .
poorer classes. The ancient distinc Cordova . . .
tions remain unchanged. The first
class, Regiaz, Majorinw, are still called This is a riding tour of bad roads
lac Reynas, les Pad/ronas. The finest and worse accommodations; attend,
are made from the gordal, which only therefore, to the provend; and get
grows in a circuit of 5 L. round letters of introduction to the superin
Seville: the berry is gathered before tendents of the mines. The distances
quite ripe, in order to preserve the must be taken approximately, as they
green colour: it is pickled for 6 days are mountain leagues. The botany is
in a Salmueru, or brine, made of highly interesting, and game abundant.
water, salt, thyme, bay-laurel, and A double-barrel gun is useful in more
garlic; without this, the olive would respects than one. For some remarks
putrefy, as it throws out a mould, on mines in Spain and the most useful
mzta. The middling, or second classes, books, see Oartagena, and p. 339.
are called lax Medianas, also Zas M0 Passing through Italica, the high
radas, from their purple colour; these road to Badajoz is continued to the
are often mixed in a strong pickle, and Venta de Po;-janosn, 4 L. ; then a rude
then are called Alifiadas: the worst track turns ofl' to the l. over a waste of
sort are the Rebusco, Recuses, or the cistus and aromatic flowers to Al_gar
refuse; these, well begarlicked and be- g rolzo, 1 L., a small hamlet, where bait.
pickled, form a staple article of food Hence 3 L. over a similar country to a
for the poor. The olive is nutritious, mountain village, Castillo de las Guar
but heating; the better classes eat them dias, so called from its Moorish watch
sparingly, although a few are usually fort : here we slept. 5 L., overalonely
placed in saucers at their dinners; they idshesa, lead next day to Rio Tinto,
have none of the ancient luxury, those ‘where there is a decent posada. The
Aselli Corinthii, or silver donkeys, l red naked sides of the copper moun
lnded with panrziers of different co-, tain, La Cabeza Colorada, with clouds
loured olives (Petr. Arb. 31; Ovid, of smoke curling over dark pine-woods,
Met. viii. 664). announce from afar these celebrated
The geologist may visit Villanueva‘ mines. The immediate approach to
del Rio, 7 L. from Seville, and examine the hamlet is like that to a minor in
the coal mines, which, long neglected,; fernal region; the road is made of
Andalucia, ROUTE 8.—n1o TINTO. 217

burnt ashes and escorim, the walls are in the Cabeza Colorada. Entering the
composed of lava-like dross, while hag shaft, you soon descend by a well, or
gard miners, with sallow faces and pozo, down a ladder, to an under gal
blackened dress, creep about, fit deni lery: the heat increases with the depth,
zens of the place; the green coppery as there is no ventilation; at the bottom
stream which winds under the bank of I the thermometer stands at 80 Fahr.,
firs is the tinged river, from whence and the stout miners, who drive iron
the village takes its name: flowing out wedges into the rock previously to
of the bowels of the mountain, it is ‘blasting, work almost naked, and the
supposed to be connected with some few clothes they have on are perfectly
internal undiscovered ancient conduit : drenched with perspiration ; the scene
the purest copper is obtained from it; is gloomy, the air close and poisonous,
iron bars are placed in wood en troughs, the twinkling flicker of the miners’
which are immersed in the waters ; tapers blue and unearthly; here and
the cascara, or flake of metal, deposited i there figures,with lamps at theirbreasts,
on it is knocked ofi' ; the bar is then ‘flit about like the tenants of the halls
subjected to the same process until i of Eblis, and disappear by ladders into
completely eaten away. The water is the deeper depths. Melancholy is the
deadly poisonous, and stains and cor sound of the pick of the solitary work
rodes everything that it touches. man, who, alone in his stone niche, is
These mines were perfectly well hammering at his rocky prison, like
known to the ancients, whose shafts some confined demon endeavouring to
and galleries are constantly being dis force his way to light and liberty.
covered. The Romans and Moors The copper is found in an iron
appear chiefly to have worked on the pyrites, and yields about five per cent.
N. side of the hill; the enormous ‘The stalactites are very beautiful; for
accumulation of escoriales show to zwherever the water trickles through
what an extent they carried on opera the roof of the gallery, it forms icicles,
tions. as it were, of emeralds and amethysts ;
The village is built about a mile _‘ but these bright colours oxidize in the
from the mines, and was raised by one ‘open air, and are soon changed to a
Liberto Wolters, a Swede, to whom i dun brown. When the Zafra, or
Philip V. had granted a lease of the rough ore, is extracted, it is taken to
mines, which reverted to the crown in the Calcinacion, on the brow of the
1783. Paralysed b the French inva hill, and is there burnt three times in
sion, in 1829 it was armed to Seiior Re the open air; the sulphur is sublimated
misa for 20 years. It is principally oc and lost, as it passes off in clouds of
cupied by the miners, but the empleados smoke; the rough metal, which looks
and oflicial people have a street to like a sort of iron coke, is next carried
themselves. The view from above the to be smelted at houses placed near the
church is striking ; below lies the stream, by whose water-power the
town with its green stream and orange bellows are set in action. The metal
groves; to the l. rises the ragged copper is first mixed with equal parts of char
hill, wrapped in sulphureous wreaths of coal and escoriales, the ancient ones
smoke; while to the rt. the magnifi being preferred, and is then fused with
cent flat fir bank, la mesa de Zoe pines, _ breza, a sort of fuel composed of cistus
which supplies fuel to the furnaces, is and rosemary. The iron flows away
backed by a boundless extent of cistus like lava, and the copper is precipitated
clad hills, rising one over another. into a pan or copella below. It is then
A proper olficer will conduct the refined in ovens, or reverberos, and
traveller over the mines, who thus fol loses about a third of its weight; the
lows the ore through every stage of the scum and impurities as they rise to the
process, until it becomes pure copper; > surface are scraped ofl' with a wooden
visit therefore the Castillo dc Solomon hoe. The pure copper is then sent
Spain.-—I. I4
218 nourn 8.-—SEVII.LE, TENTUDIA. Sect. II.

either to Seville to the cannon-foundry, longed to the rich convent of San


or to Segovia, to be coined. Marcos of Leon. Thence to Segura de
There is a direct cross-ride over the Leon, 1 L., which is approached through
wild mountains to Guadalcanal and a grove of pine-trees, above which the
Almaden. Attend to the provend and fine old castle soars, commanding a
take a local guide. It is far better to noble view. It is in perfect repair,
make a detour and visit Aracena, 5 L. and belonged to the Infante Don Carlos.
and 6 hours’ ride, over trackless, life Valencia de Leon has also another well
less, aromatic wide wastes of green hills preserved castle, with a square torre
and blue skies : after Ca/mpo Frio, 2 L., mocha, or keep : observe the brick belfry
the country improves and becomes of the parish church, with its machico
quite park-like and English. Aracena lations and fringe of Gothic circles. In
is seen from afar crowning a mountain these vicinities occurred one of those
ridge: here is a good posada ; popu authentic miracles so frequent in Spa
lation about 5000, which is swelled in nish history, and so rare elsewhere. In
the summer, when the cool breezes the year 1247 Don Pelayo Perez Correa
tempt the wealthy from Seville to this was skirmishing with some Moors,
Corie ale la Sierra. Ascend to the when he implored the Virgin to detain
ruined Moorish castle and church, the day, promising her a temple, as
which commands a splendid mountain Caesar did at Pharsalia, to vow a temple
panorama. The Arabesque belfry has -1'31 -yevn-meg], to Venus Genetrix, App.
been capped with an incongruous mo B. C. ii. 492. The sun was instantly
dern top. It was to Aracena that the arrested in its course (compare Oran at
learned Arias ]VIontano retired after Toledo). The chapel built by Correa,
his return from the Council of Trent. which marks the site, is still called
From hence there is a direct bridle Santa Maria-Tudia-Tendudia, a corrup
route to Llerena, 12 L., turning olf to tion of his exclamation, Deten tu el
the rt. to Arroyo Molinos, -1, L., and dial Thus the immutable order of the
crossing the great Badajoz and Seville heavens was disarranged, in order that
road at lllonasterio 3, thence on to a guerillero might complete a butchery,
Montemolin 2, Llerena 3. There is a by which the grand results of the Seville
direct road from Aracena to Badajoz, campaign were scarcely even influenced.
through Xerez de los Caballeros, a pic This was a true miracle of Spain, that
turesque old town with Moorish walls country of localism, for no change in
and a grand tower; remembering, on the solar system ever was observed by
passing Fregenal, to observe at Higuera the Galileos and Newtons of other parts
la Real, Q L., the 6 pictures by Morales of the world. Correa on the same
in the parish church. _ day struck a rock, whence water issued
Let us first mention the route on to for his thirsty troops. See Espinosa,
Zqfm. The country is charming. ‘ Hist. ole Seville,’ iv. 156. Accord
Leaving Araeena, 5 L. of iniquitous ingly, in the ‘ Mermorias de San Fer
road lead to Fuentes de Leon: the nando,’ iii. 116, Madrid, 1800, this won
country resembles the oak districts of der working partisan is justly termed
Sussex, near Petersfield ; in these En the Moses and Joshua of Spain.
cinares vast herds of swine are fattened. Crossing the Badajoz road, we now
At Carboneras, 1 L., the route enters a turn to the rt., to Llerena, Regiana,
lovely defile, with a clear torrent; all an old walled agricultural town of
now is verdure and vegetation, fruit some 5000 souls, and of little interest
and flower. The green grass is most save to the lover of miraculous tauro
refreshing, while the air is perfumed machia. Here, on the vigil of San
with wild flowers, and gladdened by Marcos, and it occurred in other neigh
songs of nightingales. How doubly bouring villages, the parish priest,
beautiful, as reminding one of dear dressed in full canonicals, and at
England! These districts once be tended by his flock, proceeded to a
Andalucia. ROUTE 8.--LLERENA—TOR0 OF SAY MARCOS. 219
herd of cattle, and selectcd a bull, and On leaving Lle-rena, the road runs
christened him by the name of Mark, for 4 L. over wide corn tracts, studded
the ox being the symbol of that apostle. with conical hills, to Guadalcanal,
The proselyte then followed his leader said to have been the Celtic Tereses.
to mass, entering the church and be-i The silver and lead mines are situated
having quite correctly all that day; about a mile to the N.E. The river
but he took small benefit either in beef Genalija divides Estremadura from
or morals, for on the morrow he re Andalucia. These mines were disco
lapsed into his former bullhood and vered in 1509 by a peasant named
brutality. After mass he paraded the Delgado, who ploughed up some ore.
village, decorated with flowers and In 1598 they were leased to the bro
ribands, a sort of Boeuf Grmr, and be thers Mark and Christopher Fugger,
having like a lamb; and as he was the celebrated merchants of Augsburg,
miraculously tame, sine foeno in cornu, who also rented the quicksilver mines
the women caressed him, as ll/fa/rguito, at Almaden; and they, keeping their
dear little Mark. Such was the own secret, extracted from the Poza
Egyptian adoration of Apis, such the rico such wealth as rendered. them
Elean idolatry, where the females wor proverbial, and Ser rico coma 1mFucar
shipped Bacchus under a tauriform in meant in the time of Cervantes being
carnation (Plut. Q. R. ; Reiske, vii. as rich as Croesus, or, as we should say,
196). If the selected bull ran restive, a Rothschild. They built a street in
and declined the honour of ephemeral Madrid after their name. Their de
sainthood, as John Bull sometimes does scendants, in 1635, were forced to give
knighthood, the blame was laid on the the mines up ; but previously, and in
priest, and the miracle was supposed to spite, they turned in a stream of water.
have failed in consequence of his un Yet the fame of their acquisitions sur
worthiness: he was held to be in a vived, and tempted other speculators,
state of peccado mortal, and was re with “ dreams of worlds q/‘ gold,” and
garded with an evil eye by the sus i.n 1725 Lady Mary Herbert and Mr.
picious husbands of the best-looking Gage endeavoured to drain themines:
Pasiphaes. If Marquito stopped before these are Pope’s
any house, the inhabitants were sus "Congenial souls! whose life one avarice
pected of heresy or Judaism, which IDS,
was nosed by the bull, as truflies are by Add one fate buries in th‘ Asturian mines ;"
poodle dogs. It will easily be guessed a slight mistake, by the way, in the
what a powerful engine in the hands poet, both as to metal and geography.
of the priest this pointing proboscis The scheme ended in nothing, as
must have been, and how eflectually the English workmen were pillaged
it secured the payment of church-rates by the Spaniards, who resented seeing
and Easter oiferings. The learned “ heretics and foreigners ” coming to
Feyjoo, in his ‘ Teatro Critico,’ vi. carry off Spanish bullion. In 1768
205, dedicates a paper to this miracle, one Thomas Sutton made another eflbrt
and devotes 25 pages to its theological to rework them. Thence crossing the
discussion. Bembezar to Fuente de Ooqjuna, pop.
Near Llerena, April 11, 1812, Lord ' 5500; it stands on the crest of a
Combermere, with his cavalry, put to conical hill, with the Colegiata on the
indescribable rout 2500 French horse, apex, like an acropolis. The “sheep
supported by 10,000 infantry, the rear- 1 fountain,” Fons Ma-laria~—some say the
guard of Soult, under Drouet, who 1 right name is Abejara, alluding to the
was retiring, baflled by the capture of bees and honey—-is at the bottom to
Badajoz. Few charges were more “bril the W.: coal-seamr occur here, and
liant and successful ” than this. (Disp., extend to Villaharia. The direct road
April 16, 1812.) They rode down the lto Almaden runs through Belalcazar,
flying foe like stubble in the plains. 20} L., by La G1-anja 5%, Vagseguillo
In
220 ROUTE 8.—-.u.M,u>1~:v om. AZOGUE. Sect. II.

4, Belalcazar 5, Almaclen 6: not inte sandstone, associated to slates rather


resting, it is very devoid of accommo carbonaceous. About 4000 men are
dation : sleep at Valsequillo, pop. about thus engaged during the winter, the
3000, placed in a hilly locality near the ,heat and want of ventilation ren
Guadiato, once famed for the wines‘ dering the mercurial exhalations dan
grown on its banks. Belalcaza/r, pop. gerous in summer. The gangs work
2500, stands in a well-watered plain. day and night, about 6 hours at a
It is a tidy dull town, so called from time, and hew the hard rock almost
its former most magnificent palatial naked. There are three veins, called
fortress, Bella Alcazar, built in 1445, after the saints Nicolas, Francisco, and
by G-utierre Sotomayor, and once one Diego ; the adit lies outside the town ;
of the grandest in Spain, but since the descent is by steep ladders; the
used as a quarry by the boors. It deepest shalt is said to be 1000 feet,
belongs to the Duke of Osuna. The and the lode improves the deeper it is
.Poz0 del pila/r is a fine work ; hence worked. The wells, elsewhere called
crossing the Guadamatilla over a Pozos, are here termed T01-nos, and the
broken bridge to Santa Eufemia and shafts, or Ramales, Caflas : they extend
Alma/den. under the town; hence the cracks in
The better route, perhaps, although the parish church. The mineral is
equally wcarisome, is by Espiel, which _raised by a splendid mule-worked
is reached following for five hours the atakona. The arched stone galleries are
G-uadiato. Espiel, pop. 1000, has a superb: the furnaces of the smelting
bad posada. About 4 L. on the road to ovens, in which the ore is sublimed,
Cordova is a fine ruin, the Castle de are heated with sweet-smelling brezo.
mano dc hierro, of the iron hand. The men thus employed are much more
A tiresome ride leads to “Almaden healthy than the miners, who suffer
del Azogue,” two Arabic words which from salivation and paralysis. The
signify “the Mine of Quicksilver,” mercury is distilled by two processes ;
and show whence the science was either by that used at Idria, which is
learnt. As the posada is miserable, the best, or from certain ovens or
lodge in some private house. The long Buitrones, Hbrnos de Reverbero, in
narrow street which constitutes this vented by Juan Alonso de Bustamente.
town is placed on a scarped ridge: An original engine made by Watt is
pop. about 8000. \Valk to the Glo still in use ; elsewhere it would be put
rieta, at the junction of three roads, in a museum as a curious antique.
and also to the Retama/r: look at this The quantity of mercury now ob
sun-burnt, wind-blown town, which is tained is enormous. The Fuggers only
built on the confines of La Mancha, extracted 4500 quintals annually ; now
Andalucia, and Estremadura. The between 20,000 and 25,000 are pro
Sisapona Cetobrix of Pliny (N. H., cured. The price has also lately risen
xxxiii. 7) was somewhere in this loca from 34 to 84 dollars the quintal.
lity. The mine is apparently inex Abmaden produces some 250,000l. a
haustible, becoming richer in propor year profit to government, and is one of
tion as the shafts deepen. The vein of A the few real sources of income. The
cinnabar, about 25 feet thick, traverses quicksilver always has been a royal
rocks of quartz and slate, and runs monopoly, and as its possession con
towards Almadenejos. Virgin quick verted the ore of the new world into
silver occurs also in pyrites and horn bullion, has led to indescribable jobbing
stein, and in a greyish conglomerate and robbing : the management latterly,
called here F1-aylesca, from the colour since the pecuniary importance has
of a monk’s frock. Generally the mer increased, has been given to a gs/‘e of
cury of Almaden is not found in scientific attainments, and schools are
veins, but seems to have impregnated instituted. For all details consult
three vertical strata of a quartzose Mines de Almaden, Oasiano Prado;
Amlucia. noun: 9.—SEVILLE -ro MADRID, 221

Widdrington, ch.vii.; the Apuntes, by Madrid road at Tmjillo, having visited


Joaquim Erguerra del Bayo; and ditto, Logrosan and Guadalzqoe, or strike
by Lucas de Alduna ; see also the down to Cordova by a wild bridle-road
scientific details of Rafael Gabanilias, of 18 L. This ride occupies 3 days:
Madoz, ii. 21. (See also p. 339.) the first is the shortest, baiting at Santa
Those who do not wish to visit Al Eafemia and sleeping at Viso. Santa
maden may return to Seville from Gua Eufemia domineers over the fertile
dalcanal by Oonstantina, Laconimurgi, plain of Pedroches, which separates
a charming fresh mountain town, the table-land of Ahnaden from the
whence Seville is supplied with fruit range of the Sierra Morena: here
and snow: thence to picturesque mica slate occurs, followed by granite,
Cazalla, 3 L. - Equidistant from these which commences at Visa, an agricul
two towns is a lead and silver mine, tural town of some 2500 inhab., and
called La Reyna. The iron-mines at distant 12 L. from Oordova. The second
El Ped/roso deserve a visit : this busy day the country is tolerably well cul
establishment is the creation of Col. tivated until, after a wild dekesa, you
Elorza, an intelligent Basque, who ascend the Sierra Morena: the coun
made himself master of the system of try becomes now most romantic and
machinery used in England, which he full of deep defiles, leading into the
has here adopted, and by so doing has central chains. The hills are round
infused life and wealth into this Sierra, backed, and of moderate elevation, co
which elsewhere is left almost aban vered with jams and aromatic shrubs,
doned, roadless, and unpeopled. Game but utterly uninhabited, Villaha/rta,
of every kind abounds. The botany is where sleep, is a picturesque village
also very interesting. At Cantillana, on a slope of the Solana. The last
Illia, 6 L., the mining district finishes, day‘s ride continues through the sierra,
and everywhere the escoriw show how amid pine-forests, with traces of seams
much it once was worked. Cantillana, of coal, which extend W. to Esjoiel and
according to Don Quixote, 49,is the Valmez, to a venta, from whence you
Lincoln of Spain, over which the devil look down on the plains of Andalucia,
looks. Vamanos par otra par-te, que and descend in about 3 h, to Oordoca.
estzi el diablo en Cantillana-—Why he This line is of the highest interest to
should be there particularl none can the geologist and botanist. From
tell but himself. The roa s are infa Almaden to Oiualad Real are 16 L., and
mous, the ferry boats bad, in spite of it is in contemplation to construct a.
the great traffic between Almaden and regular road.
Seville. Hence to Seville, by Alcald
del Rio, 5 L., over an excellent snipe and Roma 9.—SEVILLE T0 MADRID-.
woodcock country, but without any
Alcala de Guadaira . . 2
accommodation for horse, wheel, or Mairena. . . . . . 2 .. 4
man, except at the miserable el B0 Czmnona. . . . . . 2 .. 6
degon. From Cazalla a route passes LaPOl‘t\1g\l8B8. . . . . 2} ._. 811
on to the coal-mines of Villanueva del La Luisiana, . . , . 31- . . 12
Ecija , . . . . . . 3 . . I5
Rio, long, in spite of the facility of La Carlota . . - . . 4 , , 19
water-carriage, allowed toremain almost Mango Negro , , , . 3 . . 22
lost: now they are in work, and the Cordova. . . 1 . , , 3 ,. 25
Casa Blanca. . 2i“ .. 274'
mine of Col.Elo1-za was by far the most Carpio . . . . , 2% .. 30
scientifically conducted. The coal is Alden del Rio . 3% .. 331
well adapted for steam-engines. The Santa Cecilia 21“ .. 36
Anduiar . . . 21} .. 38-}
river may be either crossed at Alcolea Cass. del Rey . 211* .. 41
del Rio, or the land route through Bailen . . . 2 .. 43,
Santi Ponce regained. Guarroman . . . . . 2 .. 45
La Carolina . . . . . 2 .. 47
The geologist and botanist, when Santa Elena. . . . . 2 .. 49
once at Almaden, may either join the Va. de Cardenas . . '_'. 2 .. 51
222 I’.OU‘l‘l:I —M AIP.ENA—CAR1\IONA. Sect. II.

Alniuradiel . 2 .. 53 her hair. She ought also to have the


SautaCruz . 2% .. 55+ portrait of her Quemlio round her
Valdepenas . 2 .. 57%
Cousolacion. 2 .. 59'} neck. The Majo always had 2 em
Manzanares. . 2i .. 62 broidered handkerchiefs—her work——
Va. de Quesada . 2 .. 64 with the corners emerging from his
Villarta . . . 2i‘ .. 66i‘
Puerto Lapiche. 2 .. 684' jacket pockets; but all this picturesque
Madridejos . . . . 3 .. 71} nationality is getting obsolete, and is
Canada de la Higuera . 2 .. 73% voted uncivilized.
Tembleque . . 2 .. 75}
La Guardia . 2 . . 771‘ Cresting an aromatic uncultivated
Ocaiia . 3! .. 81 tract, the clean white town of Carmonw
Aranjnez . 2 .. B3 rises on the E. extremity of the ridge,
Espartiuas . 2} .. 851}
Angeles . 3 .. 88+ commanding the plains both ways.
Madrid . 2} .. 91 The prefix car indicates this “height.”
The old coins found here are inscribed
When ladies are in the case it will “ Carmo,” Florez, ‘M.’ i. 289. Caesar
be prudent to write beforehand to some fortified the city, “the strongest in the
friend in Madrid to secure quarters at province,” which remained faithful to
an hotel. This wearisome journey is the Goths until betrayed to the Moors
now (1854.-) shortened by the rail, which by the traitor Julian: St. Ferdinand
is opened from Temblegue to Madrid , recovered it Sept. 21, 1247, and his
this high road is in very bad order; standard is borne every anniversary to
the accommodations are indifferent; the Hermitage Sn. Mateo, founded by
the diligence inns are the best. him. He gave the city for arms, a
After leaving the basin of the Gua star with an orle of lions and castles,
(lalquivir the road crosses the Sierra and the device “ Sicut Lucifer lucet in
Morena, ascending to the dreary cen Aurora, sic in .Wanda.lia Oarmonaz”
tral table-lands. Cordova is almost Don Pedro added largely to this castle,
the only object worth visiting on the which he made, as regarded Seville,
whole line. There is some talk of a what Edward III. did of Windsor, in
railroad to connect that city with reference to London: here, in 1368,
Cadiz by the level line of the Guadal he kept his jewels, money, mistresses,
quivir, to be made and paid for by and children. After his defeat at
Britons bold. Montiel, his governor, Mateos Fer
For Alcald, its fine castle, bread, and nandez, surrendered to Enrique on
water-springs, see p. 159. Mairena solemn conditions of amnesty, all‘ of
del Alcor, was once celebrated for which were immediately violated, and
himself and many brave soldiers exe
its 3 days’ horse-fair, held April 25th,
26th, and 27th. It was a singular cuted. The site is still called el Rio
del Cuchillo; but Spaniards say that
scene of gipsies, legs chalanes, and pic
turesque blackguards: here the Majo capitulations make good paper to light
and Mqja shone in all their glory. cigars with.
The company returned to Seville at Carmona, the Moorish Karmunah,
sunset, when all the world was seated \with its Oriental walls, castle, and po
near the Ca/iios de Carmona to behold sition, is very picturesque : pop. 15,000.
them. The correct thing for a Jllajo Fania de la: Diligencias good: and a.
fino used to be to appear every day on Posada on the suburban plaza. Ob
a different horse, and in a different serve the tower of San Pedro, which
costume. Such a majo rode through is an imitation of the metropolitan
a gauntlet of smiles, waving fans and Griralda; remark the massy walls and
handkerchiefs : thus his face was arched Moorish city-entrance. The
whitened, sali6 muy lucido. The Maia patio of the university is Moorish;
always, on these occasions, wore the the church is of excellent Gothic, and
Caramb rt, or riband fringed with silver, built by Anton. Gallego, obt. 1518.
and fastened to the Mafia, or knot of The “ Descent of the Cross ” is by Pa
Andalucia, ROUTE 9.-CARMONA——-EOIJA—CORDOVA. 223
checo; a Venetian-like San Cristobal assume the titles and decorations of an
has been repainted. The Ala/meda Heliopolis.
with its fountain, between a dip of the Eczja boasts to have been visited by
hills, is pleasant; by starting half an St. Paul, whose gilt statue surmounts
hour before the diligence, all this may the triunfo, placed here in honour of
be seen, and the coach caught up at his having converted his hostess, Santa
the bottom of the hill. The striking Xantijzpa, wife of one Probus (these
gate leading to Cordova is built on shrew grey mares always have good
Roman foundations, with an Herrera husbands). See for authentic details
elevation of Doric and Ionic; the alca. ‘ Esp. Sag.’ 14, Ap. viii., and Ribad.
zar, towering above it, is a superb ruin. ii. 284. One of the earliest bishops of
Don Pedro and the Catholic kings Ecija was St. C1-ispin, but that was
were its chief decorators, as their before neighbouring Cordova was so
badges and arms show. The view famous for its Morocco leather.
over the vast plains below is magnifi Observe the Plaza llfajor, with its
cent ; the Ronda and even Granada pretty acacias and Amazon fountain,
chains may be seen: it is somewhat and theAzule_jo studded church-towers :
like the panorama of the Grampians the columns in those of Santa Barbara
from Stirling Castle, on a tropical and and Santa Maria are Roman, and were
gigantic scale. Consult ‘Antigiledades brought from a destroyed temple, once
de Carmona,’ Juan Salvador Bautista in the Calle de los J/In/rmoles. The house
de Arellano, 8vo., Sevilla, 1618. of the Marquis dc Cortes is painted
Descending into the plains, the road in the Genoese style: Qhere the king
continues over aromatic uninhabited is always lodged. Of other finely
uncultivated wastes: soon after Mon balconied and decorated mansions ob
cloa, with its palms, a bridge is crossed, serve those of Pefiaflor, Benameji, and
formerly the lair of a gang of robbers, Villaseca. The cloisters of San Fran
called Los Niflos de Eclja; although cisco and San Domingo may be visited.
now extinct, these “Boys” are im There is a fine but narrow bridge
mortal in the fears and tales of Spanish over the Genil : the edifice at its head
muleteers. The miserable post-houses is called el Rollo. El Rollo meant
La Portuguesa and La I/uisiana, called the gallows, usually built of stone and
after Spanish queens, are almost the outside of the town; and from the
only abodes of man in this tract of steps being worn round by walkers sit
rich but neglected country. ting down, rollo in time obtained the
Eczja, Astigi (of Greek origin, and secondary meaning of a promenade,
the city par excellence), in the time of a pretty one that ends in a gibbet.
the Romans, was equal to Cordova and Ecija has also a charming alameda
Seville (Plin. ‘N. H.’ 1; Pomp. outside the town, near the river, with
Mela, 6) : it rises amid its gardens statues and fountains representing the
on the Genil, the great tributary of seasons, and a new and magnificent
the Guadalquivir, just where it was Plaza dc Toros, built on the site of
navigable: pop. 24,000: the inn, la a Roman amphitheatre. For local
Posta, is decent. Ecija is a well-built, details consult ‘Eczja y sus Santos,’
gay-looking, improving town, but still Martin de Roa, 4to., Sevilla. 1629;
socially very dull. Some of the Moorish and the Adicion of Andres Florindo,
gates and massy towers remain. From 4to., Sev. 1631.
the extreme heat it is called the Sorte 10 L. over a waste lead to Cordovu.
nilla de Andalucia, and the produce of Ca/rlota is one of the neuvas p0bla
corn and oil is consequently very great. ciones, or the newly-founded towns, of
This roasted and toasted town bears which more anon 236). Corclova,
for arms the sun, with this modest over which so many associations hover,
motto, Una sola sera Ila/mada la Giu seen from the distance, amid its olives
dad del Sol; thus Boetican frying-pans ;and palm-trees, and backed by the
224 mourn 9.—COB.DOVA. Sect. II.

convent-crowned sierra, has a truly has been said that the Jews were called
Oriental look : inside all is decay. The Putos, quia put-ant ; certainly, as at Gib
diligence inn is at the other end of the raltar, an unsavoury odour seems genti
town. Those only passing through litious in the Hebrew, but not more
Cordova should get out at the bridge, so than in the orthodox Spanish monk.
look at the Alcazar and Mosque, then Boetica, besides blood, was renowned
thread the one long street and take up for brains; and the genius and ima
the coach; and as most of them usually gination of the Cordovese authors asto
breakfast or sleep here, stopping in the nished ancient Rome. Seneca (De
first case about 2 h., ample time is Suas. 6 sub fin.), quoting Cicero, speaks
thus given to see the Jllezquita. Those of the “pingue quiddam atque pere
going to ride to Granada will find the grinum” as the characteristic of the
Posada del Sol, or del Puente, humble, style of Sextilius Ena, one of the poets
although truly Spanish, more conve of facunda Cordoba, the birthplace of
niently situated, as being close to the himself, the unique Lucan, the two
mosque and bridge; it is the resort of Senecas, and of other Spaniards who,
muleteers. N.B. Drink Montilla wine. writing even in Latin, sustained the
Coanovn retains its time-honoured decline of Roman poetry and lite
name. Cor is a common Iberian pre rature ; not but what the turgid Lucans
fix, and tuba is said to mean important, of Spain corrupted the pure Augustan
Karta tuba. Bochart, however, reads style of Italy of old, as the Cordovese
Coteba, the Syrian coteb, “oil-press ;” Gongora did in modern times. In
the trapeta (Mart. vii. 28) for which these older works must be sought the
this locality has long been renowned. real diagnostics of Iberian style. The
Corduba, under the Carthaginians, was Andalucians exhibited a marvellous
the “gem of the South,” It sided (for Spaniards) love of foreign litera
with Pompey, and was therefore half ture. Pliuy, jun. (ii. 3), mentions an
destroyed by Caesar: 23,000 inhabit inhabitant of Cadiz who went from
ants were put to death in terrorem. His thence, then the end of the world, to
lieutenant Marcellus (Hirt, ‘ B. A.’ 57) Rome, on pm-pose to see Livy; and
rebuilt the city, which was repeopled having feasted his eyes, returned imme
by the pauper patricians of Rome; diately ; St. Jerome names another An
hence its epithet, “ Patricia ;” and dalucian, one Lacrinus Licinius, who
pride of birth still is the boast of this oifered Pliny 400,000 nummi for his
poor and servile city, La cepa ole Cor then unfinished note-books. Oes beam:
dova is the aristocratic “ stock,” like the jowrs sum! passés, for now no Anda
ceti of Cortona in Italy, The Great lucian would lose one bull-fight for all
Captain, who was born near Cordova, the lost Decades of twenty Livys.
used to say that “ other towns might be Cordova, under the Goths, was
better to live in, but none were better termed “holy and learned.” Osius,
to be born in.” As the Cordovese the counsellor of Constantine and the
barbs were of the best blood, so the friend of St. Athanasius, who punningly
nobles protested theirs to be of the called him 'ruvaunn;, was its bishop from
bluest. This san re azul or sangre am, 294 to 357: he presided at the Council
the azure ichor o this élite of the earth, of Nice, which was the first to condemn
is so called in contra/distinction to prohibited books to the fire. Under
common red blood, the puddle which the Moors, Cordova became the Athens
flows in Plebeian veins; while the blood of the West, or, in the words of Rasis,
of heretics, Lutherans, Protestants, and the “nurse of science, the cradle of
political enemies, is held by Spanish captains.” It produced Avenzoar, or,
sangrados and heralds to be black, to write more correctly, Abdel Malek
pitchy, and therefore combustible. Ibn Zohr, and Averroes, whose proper
The blood of Jews especially is thought name is Abu Abdallah Ibn Roshd ; he
to be both sable and to stink; and it it was who introduced Aristotle to
Andalucia. noun: 9.-Moor.1sH nvrmsrnxs. 225

Europe, and, in the words of Dante, Mahomet, the Emir al Mumenin, the
“i1 gran commento feo.” The wealth, Commander of the Faithful ; the dis
luxury, and civilization of Cordova, tant kingdom in 756 declared itself
under the Beni-Ummeyah dynasty, independent, and rose to be the capital
almost seems an Aladdin tale; yet of the Moorish empire of Spain, under
G-ayangos has demonstrated its his Abderahman (Abdu-r-rahman, the ser
torical accuracy. All was swept away vant of the compassionate). He was
by the Berbers, true Barbarians, who the head and last remaining heirof his
burnt palace and library. dynasty,the Ummeyah,Which had been
Spanish Cordova for some time pro expelled from the East by the Abasside
duced sons worthy of its ancient usurpers. No fiction of romance ever
renown. Juan de Mena, the Chaucer, surpassed the truth of his eventful life.
the morning star of Spanish poetry, Under him Cordova became the Kali
was born here in 1412; as was Am fate of the West, ‘and the rival of
brosio Morales, the Hearne, the Leland Baghdad and Damascus, and was the
of the Peninsula, in 1513, at No.10, centre of power and civilization in
Calle del Oabildo Viejo ; so also Tomas the West, and this at a time when
Sanchez, the Jesuit, and author of the weakness, ignorance, and barbarism
celebrated treatise De Matrimonio, que shrouded over the rest of Europe.
le sapeva mas del Demonic. The This revolt in Spain dealt the death
abominations of the modern Dens are blow to the Kalifate of the East, and
blank cartridges to this cloaca of was followed by the loss of Africa.
casuistic filth; yet the author was From the 9th to the 12th century
innocent of any obscene intentions, and Baghdad was eclipsed by Cordova,
treated the case simply as a surgeon which contained in the tenth century
dissects a subject. The best and nearly a. million inhabitants, 300
uncastrated edit. is that of Antwerp, 3 mosques, 900 baths, and 600 inns. It
vols. fol. 1607. Here, in 1538, was withered under the Spaniard ; and, rich
born Pablo de Cespedes, the painter and learned under Roman and Moor,
and poet, overrated by Spaniards ; and is now a dirty, benighted, ill-provided,
in1561, Luis de Gongora, theEuphu.ist ; decaying place, with a population about
here, in Sa/n Nicolas, Gonzalo de Cor 55,000.
dova,the great (and truly great) Captain The most flourishing period was an.
of Spain was baptised. Well, therefore, 1009. The Moorish dynasties are
might Juan de Mena follow Rasis i.n usually divided into four periods :-
addressing his birthplace as “ the The first extended from 711 to 756.
flower of knowledge and knighthood.” Then the newly-conquered peninsula
Cordova was always celebrated for was called the Island, Gezirah, and
its silversmiths, who came originally those portions which were not under
from Damascus, and continue to this the Moslem Velad Arrum, the land
day to work in that chased filigree of the Romans, as the Goths were
style. Juan Ruiz, El Vandolino, is the termed. During the first period Spain
Cellini of Cordova. Thejo_1/a.§~—Ara was governed by Amirs, deputed by
bicéjauka/r, brilliant———and earrings of the Kalif of Damascus. The second
the peasantry deserve notice, and every period commenced when Abdu-r-rah
- now and then some curious antique eme man declared his independence, and
rald-studded jewellerymaybe pickedup. made Cordova his capital, whence he
Roman Cordova resisted the Goths was called Al-dakkel, “ the enterer,”
until 572, but Gothic Cordova was the conqueror. This period extended
taken by the Moors at once by from 756 to 1036, and its dynasty
Mugueith el Rumi, the Mogued of declined about 1031, under Hisham
Spanish writers ; at first it became an III., having given 17 sultans. The
appanage of the Kluzlifa of Damascus. Moorish power in Spain, which was
The successor and representative of founded by the Ummeyahs, fell with
L3
226 noura 9.—CORDOVA-—RlSE AND FALL. Sect. II.

them. Now, in the third period, two quest, and terminated the Mohamedan
factions took the lead in the divided’ dynasties in Spain. The Cordovese
house; first, the Almoravides-Mura» power rose with the master-minded
bitins (Rdbitos, or men consecrated to Abderahmans, and was maintained by
the service of God, the types of the Al Mansur, the mighty captain-minister
Christian knights of Santiago), and of Hisham. Even then a germ of
secondly, their rivals, and by whom weakness existed, for the Kalif of
they were put down in 1146, viz. the Damascus never forgave the casting
Almohades, or Unitarian Dissenters, oil‘ his allegiance: he made treaties
or fanatics (Al Muevahedun); they with the French against the Cordovese,
were headed by Ibn-Abdallah, a Berber while the Cordovese allied themselves
lamplightcr, who persuaded the mob with the emperor of Constantinople,
to believe that he was the Mehedi, or as the rival of the Eastern kalif. Both
“ only director,” in the paths of virtue. parties occasionally used the services
There was no tyranny, no Vandalism, of the Jews, renegades, mongrels, Mu
which this Jack Cede in a turban did wallads (disbelievers), and especially
not commit. This degrading domina t-he Barbers, deadly foes to the Cordo
tion ceascd about 1227,when the whole vese Moors, whom they abhorred as
Moorish system was shivered to pieces descendants of Yemen and Damascus,
like the fragments of the exploding and as their dispossessors, for they
shell, or flike those molluscae, which, claimed Spain as theirs in right of
when divided, have such vitality, that their Carthaginian ancestors, who had
each portion becomes a new living fled to the mountains of the Atlas
creature) became independent, “Quot from the Romans. These highlanders,
urbes tot reges ;” each portion becom although Pagans, and utterly barba
ing the prey of some petty ruler, who rous, thought themselves alone to be
being all rival upstarts, never acted the salt of the earth, and assumed the
cordially together. They were sheiks, epithet amarzcegh, or nobles. At once
however, rather than kings, and such the strength and weakness oftheMoors,
as those of which Joshua in the East, first they aided in conquering the
and the Cid in the West, overcame so Goths, and then turning against their
many. This, in reading the early allies, upset the most elegant and
history of Spain, must always be re accomplished dynasty that Spain has
membered. The misapplication, or ever witnessed. _
mistranslation of our more extensive For Cordova consult ‘Ant1'g1‘iedade8
term, king, for the lesser title of a ole Eqoafla,’ Morales, Alcala de He
powerful baron, as in the case of Lear, nares, 1575, chap. 31: ‘Almakkari,’
gives an air of disproportion to the translated by the learned P. Gayangos.
narrative. The divided and weakened The third book records what Cordova
Moorish principalities gradually fell was in all its glory. Southey, in art. i.
before the united Spaniards, and Cor ‘Foreign Quarterly Review,’ has given
dova was easily taken, June 30, 1235, a portion of the 10th and 11th vols. of
by St. Fcrdinand—a king, aye every Florez, ‘Esp. Sa_q.,~’ ‘Los Santos de
inch a king. Cordova,’ M. de Roa, 4to., Scv. 1615,
Then it was that Ibnu-l-ahmar, a Lyons, 1617, or 4to., Cordova, 1627 ;
vassal of St. Ferdinand, founded, in De Corduva in Hisjgzanizi, and ditto,
1238, 1492, the fourth and last dynasty, 4to., Lyons, 1617; ‘ Anti;/iiedndcs dc
that of Granada, which after two cen Cordova,’ Pedro Diaz de Rivas, 4to.,
turies and a half, was in its turn 1624; and ‘Antigua Principado de
undermined by internal dissensions, Cordova,’ M. de Roa, 4to., Cordova,
until the union of Aragonand Castile 1636 ; ‘ Palestra Sagrada,’ Bart°' San
under Ferd. and Isab., taking place at chez Fcria, 4 vols. 4to., Madrid, 1772 ;
the period of the greatest Granadian ‘ Calalogo ale los Obispos dc Cordova,’
divisions, completed the final con Juan Gomez Bravo, 2 vols., fol., 1778,
p Andalusia. noun: 9.—COR.DOVA——LA mrzqurrs. 227
and the Indicador,‘ by Luis Maria. gilding, marble and whitewash; osten
Ramirez de las Casas Deza; and the tatious poverty. In the Sula de la
Manualito de Cordova ; read also Le Audiencia are a series of bad portraits
brecht’s essay in Ashur’s ‘ Benja/min de of prelates. Here Ferdinand VII.was
Tuolela, 318. confined in 1823, and attempted to
Cordova, this Athens under the escape through the garden, in which
Moor, is now a poor Boeotian place, observe the gigantic lemons, Arabice
the residence of local authorities, with laymozm. The artist must not fail to
a liceo, theatre, a casa de espositos, walk below the bridge to some most
plaza. de toros, and a national museo picturesque Moorishmills and pleasant
with some rubbish in ‘San Pablo, and fresh plantations.
a library of no particular consequence; The cathedral or the mosque, La
a day will amply suffice for everything. Mezquita as it is still called (mesgad
The city arms are “ a bridge placed on from mas-egad, Arabice to worship
water,” allusive to that over the river ; prostrate), stands isolated, and has
the foundations of it are Roman; the served as the chief temple to many
present irregular arches were built in
creeds, each in their turn. The exterior
719 by the governor Assamh. At the is forbidding, being enclosed by walls
town entrance is a classical Doric gate from 30 to 60 feet high, and averaging
erected by Herrera for Philip II. on 6 feet in thickness : walk round them,
the site of the Moorish Babu-l-Kante and observe the square buttress towers
rah, “the gate of the bridge.” The with fire-shaped or bearded parapets;
relievos on it are said to be by Torri it is the type of that which was at
giano. Near this is El triurgfo, a Seville. Examine the rich Moorish
triumph of superstition and churri spandrils and latticed openings of the
guerism, which was erected by the dilferent entrances. Enter the Court
Bishop Martin de Barcia. On the of Oranges at the Puerla del Perdon,
top is the Cordovese tut-elar saint, of which the type is truly Oriental
Rafael, who clearly is unconnected (1 Chr.-xxviii. 6). The cistern was
with his namesake of Urbino. The erected in 9415-6, by Abdu-r-rahman.
Alcazar rises to the 1., and was built In this once sacred vqeivo; and “Grove,”
on the site of the Balatt I/uclheric, this “court of the House of God,"
the Castle of Roderick, the last of the importunate beggars, although bearded,
Goths, whose father, Theofred, was cloaked, Homeric, and patriarchal,
duke of Cordova; formerly it was the worry the stranger and dispel the illu
residence of the Inquisition, and then, sion. Ascend the belfry tower, which,
as at Seville, that of miserable invalid like the Giralda, was shattered by a
soldiers. The lower portions were con hurricane in 1593; it was recased and
verted into stables by Juan de Minjares repaired the same year by Fernan Ruiz,
in 1584, for the royal stallions: near a native of this city. The courtyard
Cordova and Alcolea were the principal was built by Said Ben Ayub in 937;
breeding-ground for Andalucian barbs, it is 430 feet by 210. The 19 entrances
until the establishment was broken up into the mosque are now closed, save
by the invaders, who carried ofi’ the that of the centre, Observe the miliary
best mares and stallions. Here, under columns found in the middle of the
the Moors, were the Alha/ras (unde mosque during the repairs of 1532:
H21/ras), the mounted guard of the the inscriptions (re-engraved in 1732!)
king, and they were either Christians, record the distance, 114 miles, to Cadiz,
Mamelukes, or Sclavonians, foreigners, from the Temple of Janus, on the site
with whom suspicious despots like to of which the mosque was built. The
surround themselves. interior of the cathedral is like a
The bisl1op’s palace, close by, was basilicum, for the Moors introduced a
built in 1745, and is in a bad rococo new style of building in Spain, or
style: the inside is all dirt, decay, and rather converted the basilicum to the
228 ROUTE 9.—CORDOVA—CATHl:IDRAL——THE CECA. Sect. II.
mosque, as they had adapted the Bible always chose to locate themselves on
to the Koran. This specimen offers high ground, as most calculated for
the finest type in Europe of the true defence. The old sites are to be traced
temple of Islam. The labyrinth, a. by the distinguishing epithet La Vieja,
forest or quincunx of pillars, was chiefly which is equivalent to the Greek 1-as
constructed out of the materials of a qwkma, the Moorish Baleea, the Turk
temple of Janus, consecrated to St. ish Esky Kalli. Our Old Sa/rum is
George by the Goths. Out of the 1200 an apt illustration, where the ancient
monolithic columns—n0w reduced to city was absorbed by more modern
about 850—which once supported its Salisbury, and used up, serving in its
low roof, 115 came from Nismes and decay to elevate its rival.
Narbonne, in France; 60 from Seville Abdu-r-rahman began the present
and Tarragona, in Syain; while 140 mosque, July 2, 786, copying that of
were presented by Leo, Emperor of Damascus; dying June 10, 788, it was
Constantinople; the remainder were finished by his son Hixem in 793-4,
detached from the temples at Carthage and was called Ceca, Zeca, the house
and other cities of Africa; the columns of purification, the old Epyptian Sékos
are in no way uniform—some are of (amm,adytum). In sanctity it ranked
jasper, porphyry, verd-antique, and as the third of mosques, equal to the
other choice marbles l neither are their Alaksa of Jerusalem, and second only
diameters equal throughout, the shafts to the Caaba of Mecca. Conde, i. 226,
of some which were too long having details its magnificence and ceremo
been either sawed oil‘ or sunk into the nials. A pilgrimage to this Ceca was
floor to a depth of four and even five held to be equivalent in the Spanish
and six feet; while in those too short, Moslem to that of Mecca, where he
the deficiency was supplied by means could not go: hence anda/r de zeca en
of a huge and disproportionate Corin meca became a proverb for wanderings,
thian capital, thus destroying all har and is used by Sancho Panza when
mony and uniformity. The Moslem soured by blanket-tossings. The area
was the thief of antiquity. This pasis about 394 feet E. to W.; 356 feet
sion of the Arabs for appropriating N. to S. The pillars divide it into 19
Roman remains has always been and longitudinal and 29 transverse aisles;
is general, wherever they settled; the the laterals are converted into chapels.
materials oftheir buildings were seldomObserve the singular double arches
extracted fi-om the qu . From the and those which spring over pillars,
Tigris to the Orontes, om the Nile which are one of the earliest deviations
to the Guadalquiver, the cities of the from the Basilica form: the columns,
first settlers are entirely built from as at Pwstum, have no plinths, which
the wreck of former ones. Ct-esiphon would be inconvenient to pedestrians.
and Babylon furnished materials for' Some of the upper arches are beauti
the private and public buildings of fully interlaced like ribands. The roof
Baghdad; Misr was transformed into is about 35 feet high, and originally
the modern Cairo: Tunis rose out of was flat before the modern cupolas
the ruins of Carthage; and in Spain were substituted by one Valle Le
few are the Roman cities whose site desma in 1713. The real lowness is
was not changed by the conquerors, increased by the width of the interior,
by transporting their materials to a just as the height of the gothic is
distance of two, three, and even more increased by the narrowness of the
miles, from the original spot whereon aisles. The alerce wood of which it is
they stood ; this being principally the ‘ formed remained as sound as when
case whenever the deserted city occu-, placed there nearly eleven centuries ago;
pied the centre of a. plain or valley ;§ and, when taken down, the planks
for the Arabs, from habit, as well as were much sought after by the guitar
from an instinct of self-preservation, makers. This tree, called in the
Andalucia. norm: 9.——CORDOVA——THE ALERCE. 229

Arabic dialect of Granada, Erza, Ere was saved from Don Pedro and the
the Eres of the Hebrew, the Lm-is of Moors. Its Spartan simplicity con
Barbary (the root of La/riz-, larch), is trasts with the surrounding gorgeous
the Thuya, the Thus articulate, or arbor ness. This chapel the Spaniards call
vitae, which in the time of the Moors Del Zancarron, in derision of thefoot
grew plentifully near the Gumiel, as it bone of Mahomet; the chapel is an
still does in the Berber mountains, octagon of 15 ft.; the roof, made in
beyond Tetuan, from whence it was the form of a shell, is wrought out of
brought here (Morales, ‘Ant. de Esp.’ a single piece of marble. The pilgrim
123). Spain was always celebrated for compassed this Ceca seven times, as
the durability of its timber and excel was done at Mecca; hence the foot
lence of its workmanship. The Phoe worn pavement.
nicians were the great carpenters of The lateral chapels of the cathedral
antiquity, and selected as such by are not very interesting. Pablo do
Solomon for the temple at Jerusalem Cespedes, ob. 1608, is buried in front
(1 Kings v.). Pliny, ‘ N. H.’ (xvi. 40) of that of San Pablo: by him are the
speaks of the antiquity of the beams of paintings of St. John, St. Andrew, and
the temple of Saguntum, which were a neglected “Last Supper,” once his
durable like those of Hercules at Cadiz masterpiece. In the Calle San Nicolas
(Sil. Ital. 18). is a Berruguete Retablo, and paintings
Visit the Ca/pilla de Villavioiosa, by Cesar Arbasia, of no merit. In the
once the Maksurah, or seat of the kalif. Oaqzilla de los Reyes was buried Alonso
Observe the Mih-rub, the elaborately XL, one of the most chivalrous of
ornamented cabinet or recess in which Spanish kings—-the hero of Tarifa and
the Alcoran was placed, and where the Algecii-as: his ashes have been moved
kalif performed his Ohotlni, or public to Sn. Hipolito, but his ungrateful
prayer, at the window looking to the country has not even raised a poor slab
Ceca, or sanctum sanctorum. Observe to his memory. In the Ca/pilla del
the quaint lions, like those in the Al Ca/rdenal is the rich tomb of Cardinal
hambra, and the Azulejos, and the Pedro de Salazar, ob. 1706. It is
arabesque stucco, once painted in blue churrigueresque; the statues are by
and red, and gilded. The inscriptions José de Mora. In the Panteon below
are in Cuphic. This spot has been are some fine marbles. The two bad
sadly disfigured by Spanish alterations. pictures i.n the Sacristia, and ascribed
Visit the Calle San Perho, once the to Alonso Cano, are only copies. The
Cella, the “ Ceca," the Holiest of Ho church plate once was splendid; the
lies, and the kiblah, or point turned to empty cases and shelves remain from
Mecca, which lies to the E. from Spain, whence Dupont and his plunderers
but to the S. from Asia; observe the carried off many Waggon loads. A few
glorious Mosaic exterior unequalled in cinque-cento crosses and chalices were
Europe, and of truly Byzantine rich secreted, and thus escaped, like the
ness. The Greeks soon made friends Custodia. This is a noble Gothic sil
with the dynasty of Cordova as the ver-gilt work of Henrique de Arphe,
natural enemy of their eastern anta 1517. It was injured in 1735 by the
gonist the kalif of Damascus. Accord injudicious additions of one Bernabé
ing to Edrisi, this splendid Mosaic was Garcia de los Reyes. The marvel,
sent to Cordova from Constantinople however, of the verger, the great and
by the Emperor Romanus II. It was absorbing local lion, is a rude cross
their ~Jm<p~.m, which the Moors pro scratched on a pillar, and, according to
nounced Tsefysa, Sofezaba. There is an inscription, by a Christian captive
nothing finer in this kind at Palermo with his nail (i’ a nail)—Hizo' el Cau
or Monreale. Apaltry reja rails ofl' iibo con la Uila.
the tomb of the constable Conde de So much for the Mosque. The mo
Oropesa, by whom, in 1368, Cordova dern addition is the Caro; this was
230 noun; 9.——CORDOVA—ANTIQUITIES. Sect. II.

done in 1523 by the Bishop Alonsol Mala Muerte, was erected in 1406 by
Manrique. The city corporation, with a i Enrique III.
taste and judgment rare in such bodies, l The Moors and Spaniards have com
protested against this “ improvement;” ‘ bined to destroy all the Roman anti
but Charles V., unacquainted with the ‘ quities of Cordova. The aqueduct was
locality, upheld the prelate. “Then he ‘ taken down to build the convent of
passed through in 1526, and saw the San Jeronimo. In 1730 an amphi
mischief, he thus reproved the chap theatre was discovered during some
ter :—“ You have built here what you, accidental diggings near San Pablo, and
or any one, might have built anywhere 1 reinterred. In making the prisons of
else; but you have destroyed what was Z the Inquisition some statues, mosaics,
unique in the world. You have pulled , and inscriptions were found, all of
down what was complete, and you have ‘ which were covered again by the holy
begun what you cannot finish.” And K tribunal as being Pagan. Formerly
yet this man, who could see so clearly there were 35 convents, besides 13
the motes in corporate eyes, was the parish churches, in this priest-ridden
Vandal who disfigured the Alcazar of city; most of these are overloaded with
Seville, and tore down portions of the barbaric churrigueresque and gilding.
Alhambra, to commence a palace, which Ambrosio Morales was buried in Los
even now is unfinished; oh! fit ruler 1!/[arty/res, where his friend the Arch
of Spaniards, whose poor performance bishop of Toledo, Rojas Sandoval,
ever shames their mighty promise ! placed a tomb and wrote an epitaph ;
The Caro was commenced by Fer-nan the ashes were moved in 1844 to the
Ruiz in 1523, and completed in 1593. Colegiata de San Hipolito. The Plaza,
The cinque-cento ornaments and roof with its wooden galleries, and the Calle
are picked out in white and gold. The de la Feria, abound with Prout-like
Silleria, by Pedro D. Cornejo, is chur bits. Observe a common-placemodern
rigueresque; he died in 1758, ast. 80, portico of 6 Composite pillars, by Ven
and is buried near the Capilla Mayor. tura Rodriguez, much admired here.
The excellent Retablo was designed, in Some 250 bad pictures were got to
1614, by Alonso Matias ; the painting gether in the Golegio de la Asuncion.
is by Palomino, and is no better than The sword of the Rey Chico and the
his writings ; the tomb, Al lado dc la Arabic bell of Samson maybe inquired
Epistola, is that of the beneficent after. Mediaeval Cordova totters and
Bishop Diego de Mardones, ob. 1624-. every day disappears: the fine old
Lope de Rueda lies buried entre los' houses of the ruined nobility and ab
dos coros. For other details consult ; sentees are either converted to vile
the Descripcion, &c., of Casas Deza,[ purposes or pulled down. The con
D“°. Cordoba, 1847. vcnts shared the same fate. The tra
The walk round the lonely walls is veller may visit La Corredera, once
picturesque. They are Moorish, and the plaza for tournaments and bull
built of iapia; with their gates and fights. A grand new arena has been
towers they must have been nearly raised at the Pasen Grand Capiian.
similar to that original circumvallation
The Moorish house La Cuadra, on
as described by Caesar (B. C. the Plazuela San Nicolas, deserves
19).
Observe the palms overtopping the wall notice. Commerce has fled with arts
from a convent garden near the Puerta and arms. The peculiar leather, called
de Plasencia. The first palm ever from the town Cordwain, Cordovan,
planted in Cordova was by the royal was once celebrated, but the Moors
hand of Abdu-r-rahman, who desired carried their art and industry to Mo
to have a memorial of his much-loved rocco: a few miserable tanpits near
and always regretted Damascus; his the river mark the difference between
plaintive sonnet is still extant. The the present and former proprietors.
octagon tower, near this Puerta, La The chief manufactures at present are
Andalucia. noun: 9.—COB.DOVA—-THE sacx. 231

olives and tubs for them. Cordova the reaction after the fever; some ex
was always most servile and priest citement, too, was necessary, and as the
ridden ; the theatre in Ferd. VII.’s physical forces decayed, a moral stimu
time was closed, because some nuns lant was resorted to (see Monserrat,
saw the devil dancing on the roof. p. 419.)
Thus, in ancient times, the brazen tree Cordova has never recovered the
of Apollo rcmonstrated when a dancer fatal June, 1808, when it was entered
came near it, who was torn to pieces by Gen. Dupont: although no resist
by the priests (Athen.xiii. 605). Cor ance was made, the populace was
dova is now dying of atrophy: it has massacred, and the city, Mezquita,
neither arms nor men, leather nor pru and churches were plundered (Foy,
nella; the first blow was dealt by the bar 231) ; every one, says Maldo
barian Berbers, the last by the French. nado (i. 291), from the general to the
A morn.ing’s excursion may be made fraction of a drummer-boy, giving
to the Val Paraiso, and the hermitages themselves up to pillage. The ofliicers
in the Sierra Morena; the path ascends vied with the rank and file (Madoz, vi.
through gardens. At San Francisco 658). The “plunder exceeded ten
de la A2-rizafa was the fairy villa, the millions of realsz” 8000 ounces, or
Rizzifah of Abdu-r-rahman, i. e. “the 25,000l., were found in Dup0nt‘s lug
pavement ”—unde Arricife ; Conde and gage alone: see Maldonado (i. 335);
the accurate Gayangos have detailed who, with Toreno (iv.), gives all the
from Arabic authorities the historical scandalous details.
but almost incredible luxuries of this General Villoutrcys, who was sent to
Aladdin palace. This museum of Ori Paris with the news, although travel
ental art, like the villa of Hadrian, near ling express, halted a day at Bayonne,
Tivoli, was entirely destroyed, Feb. 18, to convert his illgotten Spanish gold
1009. The chief leaders, says the histo into lighter French billets de banque
rian Ibnu-r-rzikik, were only “ ten men, (Maldonado, i. 333): compare Diod.
who were either sellers of charcoal (car Sic. (v. 305) and his character of the
boneros), butchers, or dung-carriers ” “excessive love for bullion” of the old
(Moh. D. 228 and 488). The inha Gaul. Well may Bory exclaim (La
bitants made no resistance; now, even borde, iii. 201) that “ Le souvenir du
the traces of these palaces cannot be Varus Frangais est demeuré odieux
made out—etiam periere ruinae. A aux citoyens de Cordoue.” Even Foy,
scheme has recently been set on foot in spite of his “ generous patriotism,”
to make excavations and researches. does not dare to hide the notorious
The hermitages on the Sierra above truth: he tells the sad details 231),
were to Andalucia what Monscrrat was the sack of the mosque, the inex
to Catalonia: desecratedandsuppressed, cusable bntchery of peaceful, defence
they now are hardly worth going up to ; less multitudes. In the words of even
the excursion, however, aflbrds a true Thiers it was “une veritable b1'i_qan
notion of Andalucian vegetation, and dage.” Our Napier (i. 8), notwith
the views from above are extensive. standing, asserts that, “as the inha
The hermitagcs on the Sierra—a bitants took no part in the contest,
Thebais, a Laura, a Mount Athos— and received the French without any
never wanted a tenant of the bravest signs of aversion ” (thus far he is cor
and best born; in the Iberian tem- rect), “the town was protected from
perament, as in the Oriental—inedia pillage!” Buonaparte, however, who
at Zabor—violent action and repose are knew the real facts, told Savary that
inherent. The half monk, half soldier he could only account for the “ un
crusader, after a youth of warfare and usual cowardice and subsequent defeat
bloodshed, retired with grey hairs to of Dupont's troops at Bailen, from a
cleanse with holy water his blood fear of losing their plunder,”--and he
stained hands. This was the cold fit, was right. Those who rob, as the

1
232 ROUTE 9.—BAlLEN-——ALOOLEA—TI-IE DEFEAT. Sect. II.

Duke told so often the Spaniards and kerchiefs and shawls instead of man
Belgians, are worth nothing when tillas. Passing through fertile tracts
faced against the enemy. of corn and olives is Andujar, Andura,
There is a bridle cross-road from a dull unwholesome town on the Gua
Cordova to Granada, 22.} L. (see R. dalquivir of 9000 souls, with an old
14), and a new road is contemplated to dilapidated bridge: the diligence inn
Malaga, mid Fernan Nuiiez, Monte is decent. For history consult Vida de
mayor, Montilla, Aguilar, Benamegi; Santa Eufras-ia 3/ Origen de Anduja/r,
and Antiquera, which, finished, will Antonio Terrones de Robres, 4to. Gran.
bring Malaga in land and carriage I 1657. Here are made the porous
communication with Madrid, Seville, cooling clay drinking-vessels, alca/rra
and Cadiz. Meantime the roads of this ma, Arabice Karaset, which, filled
rich province are most disgraceful. with water and arranged in stands or
Quitting Cordova at 2 L. the Gua tallas, are seized upon by thirsty
dalquivir is crossed by the noble bridge Spaniards on entering every venta.
of dark marble, built b_v crimes 111., ‘ The Pa/rroquia Santa Mar-ina was a
at Alcolea. This is so fine that the mosque : the monies in the neighbour
Spaniards say that the French, when 1 hood abound in game. At Andujar
they saw it, asked if it were not made were signed two memorable docu
in France. Alcolea is a common name ments ; first, July 23, 1808, the con
in Spain, being the Alcalah, the for vention of Bailen, and secondly, Aug.
tress, the outpost of the Moors. Here, 8, 1823, the decree of the Duke of
June 7, 1808, Pedro Echavarri, a “ re Angouléme, whereby superiority was
turned convict, half madman and entire assumed by the French over all Spanish
coward” (Schep. i. 280), who had pro authorities. This was resented by the
moted himself to the rank of lieut. whole Peninsula, for it touched the
general (thus Morillo and others rose national Ewafioliamo, or impatience
to rank), with some thousand men, under foreign dictation; it converted
ought to have stopped Dupont, but at every friend, nay, even the recently
the first French advance this general delivered Ferdinand VII., into a foe
turned and fled, never halting until he to the knife.
reached Ecija, 40 m, oil‘; others ran From Anduja/r there is a carriage
even to Seville, and were the first able road to Jaen, 6 L., and thence to
messengers of their own disgrace (Foy Granada, Rte. 16.
iii. 229) ; then had Dupont pushed on, Continuing on to Madrid the road
insteadof thinking of plunder, he would soon ascends the hills, over a broken
have won Andalucia without firing a country, down which the Rumblar
shot. Ferdinand VII., however, in boils. The memorable battle of Bailen
1814, instituted an order of honour took place between the post-houses La
for the prodigios de valor exhibited at Casa del Rey and Bailen. BAILEN!
Alcolea, and gave Echavarri the only This great name, which first, which
grand cross. All this is omitted by last is repeated by Spaniards, is the
Madoz (i. -1156). Again, in 1836, the one victory, the hapworth of triumph
dastardly citizens of Cordova yielded which covers a multitude of intolerable
to a handful of men under Gomez. defeats, such as in no history can be
Near Alcolea is the great stable La paralleled except by that of themselves.
Regalada, for the once celebrated‘ BAILEN, where “ Nosotros crushed
breeding-grounds of Cordovese barbs: the veterans of Austcrlitz and Ma
the establishment has never recovered rengo,” [Dupont’s troops being, in
since the best stallions were carried oif fact, raw conscripts and “des soldats
by the invaders. At Carpio, with its novices,” Foy, iv. 109,] “ and thereby
Moorish tower, built in 1325, the saved, not Spain alone, but Europe!”
costume begins to change, the women As the road to Madrid ofiers little to
wearing green serge sa_1/as, and hand look at or write about, the real truth
Andalucia. ROUTE 9.——BAILEN——THE BATTLE. 233
may at once amuse the English and French had become demoralized by
instruct the Spanish reader while jour indulgence in pillage ; more than 1500
neying over dreary and dull La Mancha. men were actually employed in guard
W'hen Cuesta had, by being beaten ing the “impedimenta,” or waggons of
at Rioseco, opened Madrid to the plunder ,~ thus, as at Victoria, the
French, Buonaparte and Murat con crime entailed its own punishment.
sidered the conquest of Andalucia But according to Justin (xxxii. 2) such
to be merely a promenade militai/re. defeat is no unusual consequence of
Dupont accordingly was sent from Gallic plunder, and especially when
Toledo, May 24, 1808, with 10,000 sacrilegions; hence the classical pro
men, and boasted that on the 21st verb Auru/m Tolosammn, the curse
of June he should be at Cadiz: his entailing pillage of Delphos, which
forces were next increased by 12,950 haunted the French of Toulouse, and
more men under Vedel; but Dupont the comrades of Brennus. Such was
mismanaged the whole campaign: he the just retribution of Nemesis, Ultor
arrived, without obstacles, at Andujar, Sacra pecuniw. And some high oili
and then neither pushed on to Cadiz, cers, says Foy (iv. 100), “anxious to
nor fell back on Madrid while the secure their butin infame, were ready
mountains were open. Meanwhile Cas to listen to dishonoui-;” the uneven
tafios was enabled to move his biaofios country was also in favour of Reding,
from Algeciras, by the help of a loan‘ as it rendered all scientific manoeuvring
advanced bythe merchants of Gibraltar, impossible; in short it was a Ron
and marched towards Andujar with cesvalles.
25,000 men : his army, both in men and The report of the firing during the
generals, was little more than nomin contest brought up La Pefia with the
ally Spanish, although Madoz, iii. 303, 4th Spanish brigade, and Vedel with
says they were casi todos Andaluces! his division; thus Reding was attacked
The 1st division was Swiss, and com in front and rear by Dupont and Vedel,
manded by Reding, a Swiss; the 2nd while Dupont was exposed in the same
was commanded by De Coupigny, a manner to Rediug and La Pena; but
Frenchman; the 3rd by Jones, an the Spaniards arrived first, for Vedel
Irishman, and the best troops were had halted some hours to permit his
Wafloons. The 4th division, which troops to convert into soup a flock of
really consisted of Spaniards, who now goats which they had caught: thus
claim all the glory, never fired a shot, nearly 20,000 Frenchmen were sold
and Castaiios, their chief, only arrived for a mess of pottage: “La destinée
after the battle was gained; previously des nations dépend de la maniere dont
Dupont had so mismanoeuvred and ellcs se nourrissent,” says Brillat Sa
scattered his forces, that Castafios, by varin. This ought to be a warning to
marching Reding to the r., got between so truly t a gastronomic nation,
him and Vedel. The positions were how they meddle with the cuisine of
singular, each being placed in these the rude Iberians, who were sad goat
hilly defiles between two fires : Dupont eaters, according to Strabo 155,
between Castafios and Reding, Reding 1ez'yaq)wya5a1 ,u.¢).ur=r¢).
between Dupont and Vedel. All parties were anxious to come to
July 18, Dupont quitted Andujar some terms, particularly the chiefs, Du
like a thief in the night. So careless pont and Castafios; indeed the latter,
was the Spanish look-out, that the on his arrival, after all the fighting
enemy had marched five hours before was over, would have readily granted a
Oastafios even knew that he was gone. convention of Ointra had he not been
Dupont was met at daybreak of the prevented by Count Tilli, a sort of
19th by Reding and Coupigny, drawn commissioner of the Seville junta.
up in a strong hill position. The Every moment’s delay rendered‘ the
battle was of short duration, for the position of the French more desperate.
234 noun: 9.—s.i1LE>I—cAsrA§zos. Sect. II.
Tho burning Andalusian sun, and the when Dupont on delivering his sword,
want of water, were more formidable made a grandiloquent speech in the
than the Spaniards. Read Livy (xxxiv. Honneur et Patric style: “ this is the
47) to see a former example of these first time mon épée has witnessed de
effects on a French army. When the feat.” “ Ma foi,” replied Castafios,
troops ventured down to the stream “ what is odder still, this is the first
below, they were shot by hornet swarms time mine has witnessed a victory.”
of armed peasants. Eventually, on Casta-fios, who trimmed and wea
the 23rd, 17,635 Frenchmen laid down thered all the storms of Spanish poli
their arms. The panic spread far and tics, died liked by all Sept. 23rd, 1852,
wide: whole detachments of French aged 95. On the 1-ttli of that month,
along the road to Madrid volun also full of years and honours, our great
teered their own submission. Joseph Duke had led the way, as he was Wont.
Buonaparte fled from Madrid in They indeed justly represent the shares
stantly, having first pillaged every of the real work done in the war of in
thing; but the invaders ran away dependence by England and Spain.
from the coming shadows of only their Castaiios was a gentleman, and to
own fears, for Cast-afios, so far from his honour opposed the Punic manner
advancing on the foe, more amazed at in which the convention of Bailen was
his victory, than even the French at broken on some quibble about the
their defeat, actually marched back to impossibility of sending the French
Seville to dedicate flags to St. Ferdi home in “Spanish ships.” Thus retalia
nand: nor did he reach Madrid until tion and poetical justice were satisfied
Aug. 23, when he proceeded to kneel rather than good faith. The French,
before the Atocha image of the Virgin, who had sowed in the storm,nowreaped
and thank her for her interference in the whirlwind. “They were treated,”
(Schep. i. 458). Meanwhile Buona says Southey (ch. viii.), “ as criminals
parte was silently preparing his great rather than soldiers ; as men who had
revenge umnolested by the Spaniards, laid down their arms, but could not lay
who quietly reposed under their laurels, down their crimes.” “ On leur re
not taking the smallest steps even to clamait avec menaces ct injures les
dislodge the French runaways from the vases sacrées (les églises,” (Foy, iv.
line of the Ebro ; they thought the war 107). Many were massacred in cold
concluded by one blow ; and even the blood on the road, others were starved
sober English caught the infection, in the Cadiz hulks, the rest were ex
and imagined Bailen to be a tragedy posed on the desolate island of Cabrera,
to be repeated whenever the French without food or clothing, to feed on
appeared, until further notice. The each other like howling wild beasts, in
rewards given to Castafios, this con spite of the indignant remonstrances of
queror by deputy, were as slow as his English oflicers, who are now charged
military movements ; he was not made by some French! with the guilt of
Duque dc Bailen until nearly a quarter the very crimes, which they did every
of a century afterwards, and then thing in their power to prevent.
simply and solely because Christina Buonaparte concealed Bailen and the
was anxious to create a liberal party truth from his slaves : “Les Francais,”
for her own ends. To his praise be it says Foy, “ n’en eurent méme pas con
said that he was free from mean jea naissance.” When the retreat from
lousies, and cheerfully served under Madrid could no longer be kept back,
the Duke of \Vellington, and of all his he only hinted in the ‘ Moniteur,’ Sept.
countrymen was bcst liked by their 6, that the heat of the weather and the
allies. He was fully aware of his own su‘periority of the Ebro water were
utter military incapacity, and being a the causes ; just as at Trafalgar he
true Pillo Aindaluz, cut his joke on ascribed the accidental disaster to
himself and on everything else. Thus, the elements. Barring this fanfaron
Andalucia, nouns 9.-—BA.ILEN. 235
nade, his military genius fully compre aroused from her moral subjection ;
hended how little Spanish strategics Spain retook her place among nations ;
had caused the victory; and, Writing and England, thinking her now worthy
immediately after the disaster, he re of her friendship, rushed to her final
marked, “ Les Espagnols ne sont pas deliverance.
a craindre, toutes les forces Espagnoles After nearly forty years, a monument
ne sont pas capables de culbuter 25,000 was talked about being erected on this
Franqais dans une position raison glorious site ; and even this, a thing of
nable ;” and subsequent events showed accident, was not got up to honour
how true was this opinion. Hp never Gastafios or his troops, but to express
again lost any great battle with the by a side wind the national disgust at
Spaniards, and in a few months routed . the marriage of the Spanish Infanta
these very heroes of Bailen, who dis with the French Duc de Montpensier.
played everywhere the most incredible A more curious monument will be the
cowardice and incapacity. Even Sche oflicial Spanish book that is to be
peler observes, “Le son de ce mot written on the battle, in order to confutc
Bailen produisitunvertige de triomphe, the statements in Thiers’ “ historical
et livra at Buonaqra/rte mainte armée = romance ;” just as Marliani was em
.E'.spa_qnoZe.” This victory of an acci ployed as the mouthpiece of Oastilian
dent really proved to Spaniards a dis indignation, to rebut the same lively
aster, for they now took the exception gent1cma.n’s version of Trafalgar. Mean
for the rule, and imagined that their time the name Dupona was long given
raw levies, wanting in everything, and to “a croptailed rip,” in coarse and
led by incapable ofiicers, could beat horse parlance in central Spain.
the highly organised veterans of France The town of Bailen or Baylen, Be
led by good commanders ; in vain the tula, is most wretched, and is no bad
Duke urged them to keep to their hills, sam le of those of the dreary localities
and wage a Fabian defensive warfare, whic we are approaching; pop. under
which history, the nature of the broken 3000: the diligence Parador de la Paz
country, and the admirable gue-rilla is a poor inn. There is a ruined castle
qualities of the Spanish people pointed here, with a machicolated tower belong
out. “ I am afraid,” said the Duke, ing to the Benavente family, now to
“that the utmost we can hope for is, the Osuna; observe the palm-tree.
to teach them how to avoid being beat. Those who are going N. may now bid
If We can eli'ect that object, I hope we adieu to the vegetation of the tierra
might do the rest” (Disp. Aug. 18, caliente, while those who are coming
1812). But their Ewafiolismo took S. will welcome this harbinger of the
hufl‘; they were not to be taught ; land of promise. Now commences the
and these “ children in the art of war” pafio pardo, the brown cloth, and the
were naughty enough to quarrel with alpargata, or the hempen sandal of the
their kind nurse and well-meaning poverty-stricken Manchegos.
instructor. Bailcn always interfered; Leaving Bailen the road enters the
they were always fighting it over again, Sierra barrier, which rises between the
planning how to catch all the French central table-lands and the maritime
at once in one trap. This idea led them strips; and striking is the change of
to quit the mountains and descend into vegetation, the best test of climate,
the fatalplains, theretoextend theirlines, when this frontier is passed. The hilly
in order to surround the enemy and road is admirably planned, having been
catch him in a trap, when these Tartars, executed by Charles Le Maur, a French
by one charge q/' cavalry, generally put engineer in the service of Charles III.
them to rout. These localities at the gorge of the
Meanwhile the effect of Bailen was mountains have naturally been the
electrical; for the truth could not be theatre of battle: in these parts Pub
quite stifled, even in France. Europe lius Scipio defeated Asdrubal, and here
236 ROUTE 9.—LAS rmvas DE TOLOSA. Sect. II.

in modern times the Spaniards have by birth a Frenchman, and fired with
twice worsted their most inveterate all the military spirit of his gallant na
foes. About 2 L. to the rt. of Ca/rolina tion, this eye-witness was a better hand
are Las Navas de Tolosa. Navas is a probably at guess-work than arithmetic.
Basque word, and like the Iberian He vouches also for the fact that no
term Nav, enters into names connected wood was burnt in the victor camp,
with “ plains,”—Navia, Navarra. This except the spears, arrows, and (long)
is the scene of a former Bailen, called bows of the Moors. See, also, p. 97,
de las Navas de Tolosa by the Spaniards, Annalee Ecc.de Jaen. Jurado. Those
and by Moorish annalists that of who have read any Spanish general’s
Al-’akab. Here, Monday July 16, or junta’s accounts of their victories!
1212, Alonso VIII. defeated Moham during the Peninsular and recent wars,
med Ibn Abdallah, surnamed Annassir will see how little changed are these
Ledin-Allah—the Defender of the Re unchangeable romancers. The victory
ligion of God—King of Morocco. could not be followed up ; the Spaniards,
The conquest of Toledo by the Chris as usual, in want of everything, were
tians had led to a fresh invasion ofunable to move; they therefore re
Spain from Barbary; the news spread turned to Toledo, to thank San Ilde
dismay over Christendom, and Inno fonso, instead of marching on Seville;
cent III. proclaimed a general crusade. just as Castafios returned after Bailen
It is said that no less than 110,000 to Seville, to thank St. Ferdinand, in
foreign crusaders came to assist the stead of marching on Toledo.
Spaniards from all parts of Europe, Carolina. Diligence Parador good.
although the Spaniards claim all the This is the chief place of the Nuevas
glory for themselves, as in the Penin Poblaciones, or the new towns of this
sular war; and, as scarcely any men district: pop. 2800: it is tidy and
tion is made of the Duke and the clean, laid out by line and rule, and
English, who did that deed, and all the in academical rectangular and common
glory taken to Nosotros, and this while place; perfectly uninteresting and un
thousands are alive who know the real .Spanish, it is much admired by the
truth, some doubts may be raised as natives, because so European and civi
to this former statement and exclusive lized. The fair skins of the people,
claim, but no doubt that foreign auxili and the roads planted with trees, are
aries bore at least their share in the bur more German than Iberian. These wild
den of the fight. The allies left Toledo hills were formerly left to the robber
June 21, to meet the invaders. They and the wolf, without roads or villages.
found the passes guarded by the Moors, Spain, after colonizing the new world
and despaired, when a shepherd, since and expelling her rich Jews and indus
ascertained to have been San Isidro trious Moors, was compelled to re
himself (see Madrid), appeared miracu people the Despoblados with foreign
lously and pointed out a by-path: so settlers. In 1767, Don Pablo Ola
at Marathon, where a stranger, like vide, a Peruvian by birth, planned the
San Isidro, in a rustic dress, assisted immigration of Germans and Swiss to
the Greeks, and then disappeared, the what they were told was a. “ mountain
oracles afterwards declared him to be paradise,” by a bribe of pecuniary as
Hercules (Pans. i. 32). The Christians sistance and promise of immunities; all
opened the attack; the Andaluciau these pledges were broken, and most of
Moors, true to their old unwarlike cha the poor foreigners died broken-hearted
racter, were the first to turn and run of the maladie du pays, execrating
(Conde, 423). The remainder fol Punic Spain, and remembering their
lowed their example; 200,000 infidels sweet Argos. Olavide himself, this
were killed, while scarcely 25 Christians modern Cadmus or Deucalion, who had
fell; so writes the pious and fighting infused life into the silent mountains,
archbishop Rodrigo, who was present : and one of the few enlightened Assis
Andalucia. ROUTE 9.—LA MANCHA. 237
tcntes Seville ever had, fell in his turn in two days, they forced 50 in. of ahnost
a victim to bigotry and ingratitude. impregnable passes.
One stipulation had been the non The province of La Manchu, into
admission of monkish drones into these which we now enter, contains about
new hives: a capuchin, named R0 7500 square m., with a scanty popula
muald, thereupon denounced him to tion of 250,000. It is chiefly table
the Inquisition ; he was arrested in land, elevated at a mean height of 2000
1776, his property confiscated, and he feet above the sea-level. Although ap
himself confined in a convent in La. parenbly a plain, it is very undulating ;
Mancha, subject to such a penance as in the dips, occasionally, a streamlet
the monks should inflict. He escaped creates a partial verdure and fertility.
into France, shaking Spanish dust ofl' but water is the great want; indeed,
his feet for ever. some see the origin of the name Manchu
The road made by Charles III. in the Arab Manxa——dry land. De
winds through a mountain gorge, with nuded of trees, it is exposed to the
toppling crags above and around, some cutting wintry blasts, and scorched by
of which are called here los organos, the calcining summer heat : tawny and
from representing the pipes of a gigan arid is the earth, while the dust, im
tic organ, and soon passes by Lac Cor pregnated with saltpetre, and the fierce
redems and the magnificent narrow glare of the sun blind the eye, wearied
gorge Despefia-per1'0s—“ throw over with prospects of uniform misery and a
dogs,” meaning the “infidel houndes.” grievous want of anything worth notice,
This is the natural gateway to dreary either in man or his works, or in the
La Manchu, as Pancorbo is to Castile. nature with which he is surrounded;
Adieu now gay Andalucia and the tro the traveller is sickened with the wide
pical vegetation. Those who advance expanse of monotonous steppes, and
N. exchange an Eden for a desert, over which nought but the genius of a
while those who turn their backs on Cervantes could have thrown any
the capital, at every step advance into charm, gilding, as it were, its unen
a more genial climate and a kindlier durable misery and dulness.
soil. In the war of independence the The towns are few, poverty-stricken,
Seville Junta only talked of fortifyin g and without a particle of comfort or
this natural Thermopylse, this Bolan interest: the mud-built villages, the
pass; nothing was over done except on abodes of under-fed, ill-clothed la
paper; and after the rout of Ocafia. the bourers: besides the want of water,
runaways dared not even stand behind fuel is so scarce that dung is sub
the rocks, where 100 old Greeks would stituted, as in the East. These ham
have checked the advance and saved lets, wretched enough before, were so
Andalucia. Jan. 20, 1810, the French, sacked by the Duponts and Soults,
under Dessolles, forced the pass in spite that they never have recovered. The
of the heroes of Bailen and their ten plains produce much corn, saffron, and
thousand men, who dispersed “every in some places rich wines: the mules are
man to his own home ;” and this on the celebrated. The Ma/nchego is honest,
plains of Tolosa! yet the country is a patient, and hard-working when there
natural fortress, and well did the Duke is any one to hire him; his affections
know its value. It might have been are more developed than his reason.
made the Torres Ved/ras of Andalucia. Temperate, brave, and moral, he is
His plan, when he contemplated de attached and confiding when kindly
fending Andalucia, which failed from used and honestly dealt with ; reserved
the Junta’s suspicions regarding Cadiz, and stern when he suspects ill-treat
was to make Carolina his head-quarters. ment and injustice. He is plainly
“ I think,” said he, “while I am there clad in paiio pa/rdo, with a montera
the French will not venture to pass the ———the Iberian ,u.urea—0ll his head, a
Sierra.” Now, when he was not there, most inconvenient cap, which neither
238 nours 9.-csnvimrns. Sect. II.
defends the head from the sun, the his philosophical comment on human
rain, or cold; yet, in spite of all these life, his criticisms on manners, institu
untoward circumstances in man and tions, and literature. The actors in the
his country, this is the province of the narrative—-the “Cara,” for instance,
- song and dance, the Seguidilla and Man the Canon, and Don Quixote himself
chega. Honest, homely Sancho Panza is —are the mouthpiece of the author,
a real Manchegan peasant. He is the true as the “ Cautivo ” is the hero of some
Juan Eqaaziol, the simple gaffer goosy, of his real adventures when captive in
the John Bull of Spain. Dos Juanes con Algiers. Don Quixote is a delineation
nn Pedro, hacen an canon entero. of the old high-bred Castilian, a hater
After passing the gorge of Despe1'ia of injustice and lover of virtue; he is
perros, to the rt. is the Venta de CM indeed a monomaniac, but that one
denas; here we think of Don Quixote, point is not one which is unbecoming
Cardcnio, and Dorothea, for these fic to an hidalgo; although the sweet bells
tions rank as realities. In the imme of his intellect are jangled and out of
diate Sierra to the 1. is the scene of tune, he is always the gentleman, al
the knight’s penance. Near Torre ways disinterested, generous, elevated,
Nueva he liberated the galley-slaves. and beneficent; he gradually recovers
As we are now in Don Quixote’s coun his senses in the second part, when our
try, and as it has been our fate to pass feelings of pity and sympathy, always
no less than six times over this dreary strong in his favour, increase. -
road of bore, we entreat the traveller vantes probably did not intend or anti
to arm himself beforehand with a Don cipate the spirit of ridicule which he
Quixote: some intellectual provender excited against this sentiment of “the
is no less needful for the mind than chivalrous ;” accordingly the tone and
“ vivers and provend ” are for the bodycharacter of his hero rise in the second
in the hungry barrenness of La Mancha, part ; he is exposed to somewhat fewer
so a few remarks on Cervantes may not rude and less personal mishaps. Un
be out of place here. doubtedly Cervantes contributed to in
According to M. Montesquieu, the jure the heroical and energetic character
sayer of smart things, “this, the one of the old Castilian, for one cannot
and only good book of Spain, is em laugh at books of chivalry without in
ployed in exposing the ridicule of all some wise affecting the principle; but
others.” Certainly, for Don Q.uixote’s. his real and avowed object was to put
sake, a vast tribe of Spanish sins in an end to the absurd romances which
print may be spared, which, to no loss it was then all the fashion to read.
of mankind, might be condemned to The second part was produced from
the fire of the Don’s niece or the fur an author under the name of Alonzo
nace of the inquisition of Ximenez ; Fernandez de Avellanada having put
but we must not suppose that it was forth a spurious continuation, pub
written to put down knight-errantry ; lished at Tarragona, 1614. This called
that exponent of a peculiar age had up the hitherto careless Cervantes, who
passed with its age, and had Don : has transfixed the plagiarist by the ban
Quixote been a mere satire on it, both derillas of his wit. He then became so
the conqueror and conquered would chary of his hero that he killed him, in
long ago have been buried in the same - order, as Addison said of Sir Roger de
grave and forgotten. Those who say Coverley, that no one else might mur
that Cervantes “laughed Spain’s chi der him; then, as he says with honest
valry away,” forget that it had expired pride, “ did Cid Hamet Ben Engeli lay
at least a century before his birth. It i down his pen, and place it up so high
is impossible not to see that it is “ Cer- i that none since have ever been able to
vantes loquitur” all through, and that take it down.” This “ eanting ” name
the tale is made the vehicle for his of Ben Engel, is thought by Conde to
own chivalrous temperament, and for shadow out in Arabic the Spanish word
Anclalucia. ROUTE 9.-——LA MANCI-IA—DON QUIXOTE, 239
“ Cervantes,” the “son of the stag," petty locality the representative of the
Ciervo ; the final ez being in Basque no absolute king; he sufiices for the wel
menclature equivalent to our son, Juan fare of the many, or, it may be, their
Juanes, John-Johnson. The prefix, Ben oppression, as the jawbone of an ass
Ibn meaning “ son ” in the Arabic, is the did in the hands of a Samson. Again,
French Fitz,-fils, and E ggel-Agl is a stag. where laws and habits of ceremonial
It is a mistake to consider Sancho manner are so well defined, and the
Panza (Paunch) to be a vulgar clown; bearing of the lower classes so natu
he is the homely, shrewd, natural native rally high bred, every one on his pro
of La Mancha, and may be com» motion falls, like the Oriental, into his
pared with the grave-diggers in “ Ham place, without effort or uncertainty.
let,” or the An//.0; in Aristophanes. The spirit of wit which pervades
Notwithstanding his preferring his Don Quixote is enhanced by the happy
belly to honour, and his bota to truth, and original idea of bringing the sub
his constant and truly Spanish refer lime into a constant contact with
ence to self and his own interests, we the ridiculous; hence the never-failing
love him for the true affection which charm of the conversations of master
he bears to his master, for his Boswell and man, Zos graciosos razonamientos,
like admiration, which hopes every the well-compounded salad of prac
thing, believes everything, in spite of tical, utilitarian, all-for-the-maim
his hero’s eccentricities, which he can chance, common sense, with the most
not help noticing and condemning. elevated abstract romance of chivalrous
But none who have ridden far and ;wy¢7La¢u,q;ua ; yet the opposition, how
long with a single humble Spanish ever marked, is always natural. The
attendant, will think either his cre Hidalgo, tall, spare, and punctilious,
dulity or confidence in the_least forced. cladin armour and mounted on a steed
The influence of the master spirit over worthy of the burden, is balanced by
the marl is unbounded; nor is it any the short, round, fat, and familiar
exaggeration to say, that these squires squire, clad in his pmlo pa/rdo, and
end in believing their Englis “ amo ” ' straddling his ignoble “rm-2'0.” The
to be invincible and infallible, if not one brave, temperate, and vigilant, the
supernatural, although not perhaps other cowardly, greedy, and somno
owing to a very orthodox spiritual con lescent: never was the tel maitre tel
nexion. Hence the Spanish troops, valet doctrine more contradicted. The
composed of such materials, enter master, always reasoning well and
tained, said the Duke (Disp. May 6, acting absurdly; the servant, like the
1812), an opinion that our soldiers Spaniard in general, seeing clearly and
were invincible, and that it was only distinctly what is brought closely to
necessary for them to appea/r (like him, but with no wider grasp than his
Santiago) to secure success. The at own petty profit and locality. Both,
tachment of these fine fellows becomes however, are always and equally se
devotion, and they will follow their rious, and intensely in earnest; the
new master to the end of the world knight never losing sight of his high
like a dog, leaving their own home, calling, the squire of his own eating,
and kith and kin. Neither is the ad interest, and island, and, to make per
mirable and decorous conduct of San fection perfect, both speaking Spanish,
cho, when made a governor, at all in that m ' cent and ceremonious
variance with Catholic Spanish or Ori- ; idiom, and yet so capable of expressing
ental usages. There the serf is the the proverbial mother wit of the lower
raw material for the Pasha and Regent. classes. This state-paper language of
“ Debajo de ser hombre puedo venir a’ big promise, and beggarly, not to say
ser Papa,” says Sancho. In Spain, as ridiculous, performance, has long been,
in the East, the veriest jack in oflice, and longwill be, the natural and ap
armed with authority, becomes in his propriate vernacular of juntas and
240 ROUTE 9.—LA MANCHA——DON QUIXOTE. Sect. II.
generals, and the multitudinous Quix vey a sort of vulgarity, which they
otes and Quesadas of the Peninsula. neither do, nor were intended to do,
This truth to Spanish nature, and with Spaniards. Cervantes, like Shak
the constant contrast of the sublime spere, is honourably distinguished from
and the ridiculous, of grandeur and his contemporaries, by an avoidance of
poverty, runs like a vein of gold those coarse, dirty, and indecent allu
throughout the whole novel. If true sions, which were then so prevalent in
vrit consist in bringing together things the picaresque and fashionable litera
which have no apparent connexion, ture, insomuch that he was condemned
then all books must yield to this. The as austere: he felt that a want of
high is always being brought alongside decency is a want of sense. His
the low by the master, and the low moral is always high, he shuns and
raised up to the high by the servant, by
abhors the low,—odit profanum vulgus
Don Quixote in ventas, and by Sancho et arcet. With him repressed thought
among dukes and duchesses. It is the took refuge in light burlesque, in hidden
true Mock Heroic, and another charm irony, and side-wind assaults. His
is the propriety of the story: every critical taste led him equally to eschew
the affected euphuisms of the day ; his
thing is possible, nay probable, to hap
pen to any one whose head was turned tact and judgment alwags kept his wit
by knight - errantry, and who set and ridicule in its proper place, while
forth in search of adventures at that a rich air of poetry, and a dramatic
period and in that country. The delineation of character, which are
simple-spoken villager, thus transported breathed over the whole, show that he
into new society, delights mankind by was not merely a writer of novels, but
his earnestness, his absence of all pre oi tragedy almost reaching the epic.
tension to be saying good things, and Never let Don Quixote be out of our
his utter unconsciousness of the merri readers’ alforjas. Let it be one of the
ment which they produce. He never “ little books-” which Dr. Johnson said
laughs at his own jokes, which others no man ought ever “ not to have in his
do all the more, for although he never pocket.” It is the best HAND-BOOK for
read a word of his countryman Quinc La Mancha, moral and geographical:
tilian, he fully acts on his principle :— there is nothing in it imaginary except
“ Quam plurimurn dictis severitas af the her0’s monomania. It is the best
fert, sitque ridiculum id ipsum quia qui comment on Spaniards, who themselves
dicit non ride .” (Inst. vi. 3.) So form the most explanatory notes on
Sancho, like Falstaff, is not only droll the work, which reflects the form and
himself, but the cause of wit in others. pressure of them and their country.
The happy idea of juxta-position of One word on the diflerent and the
this novel is one reason why all nations best editions of this Shakspeare of
love it; however ill translated, there Spain."" Happy the man whose eye
is no mistaking the rich racy wit of can glance on a goodly set of the
sayings, doings, and situations; from
our delight in this well-conceived plot, on' the
Cervantes and Shskspeare died nominally
some day—Pellicer says, 23rd April,
and in our eagerness to get on with the 1616; but it must always be remembered, in
story, to the master and his man, we comparing Spanish dates with English, that
skim over the episodes, the beautiful dates apparently the same are not so in reality.
The Gregorian calendar was adopted in Spain
descriptions, the rural and poetical dis in 1582, in England in 1751. We must there
quisitions. The delicate Spanish “ Bor fore make an allowance between the old style
racha” is, however, untranslatable; and the new style, and add to the English date,
in order to obtain the true corresponding Spanish
like Burgundy, it must be quafied on date previously to 1751, 10 days up to 1699, and
the spot; the aroma is too fine for 11 afterwards. Cervantes lived and died poor.
transportation. The proverbs of San Spain, ever ungrateful to those who serve her
best, raised no monument to his memory. It
cho are comparatively misplaced out is only the other day that she has given him a.
of Spain. To English ears they con stone, to whom living she denied bread.
Andalusia. ROUTE 9.-—I3OI\' QUIXOTE——BEST EDITIONS. 241
earliest, worthily arrayed in fawn, olive, missed the charm, and turned English
and tender-tinted old morocco! and gold into German silver.
such as may be seen in the Grenville Cervantes, like Velazquez, was not
collection of the British Museum. The merely a portrait-painter of the Hidal
first edition of the first part, Juan de go, but a poet—a critic of poets, and
la Cuesta, Mad. 1605 ; the first edition somewhat too true a one to be very po
of the same, as amended by the author, p_ular—-an author of comedy, tragedy,
Juan de la Cuesta, Mad. 1608: the satire, and light novels. To him was
first edition of the second part, Juan granted that rarest gift of the Deity, in
de la Cuesta, Mad. 1615 ; and consult vention, that spark of the C'1'eator’.s- own
Brunet, “ Manuel du Libra-ire ” (i. 370), prerogative. The popularity of Don
and “ Nouvelles Recherches ” (i. 295). Quixote has eclipsed, and justly, the
Of the reprints of the original text the other works of Cervantes, and his taste
first really fine one was published in and style in the drama approached too
London by Tonson, 4 vols. 4to. 1737, nearly to the Greek theatre to succeed
as the first really critical one was that with Spaniards, whose Esyoafiolismo
of John Bowles, 6 vols. 4to. 1781, and prefers the particular nature by which
from which every subsequent commen it is surrounded. His “ Numantia”
tator has borrowed largely. Of mo and “ Trato de Argel” have been com
dern Spanish editions‘ the finest, that pared to the “ Persae” and “Prome
“de lujo,” was published for the Aca theus.” This Iberian Eschylus gave
demy of Madrid, by Ibarra, 4 vols. f0. way before the rising sun of Lope de
1780. That of Juan A_nt°' Pellicer, Vega; he retired as Walter Scott did
6vols. 8vo. Mad. 1797, contains many before Byron, to immortalise himself
' valuable notes. The last, and not the by his novels. Lope de Vega was also
least, is that of Don Diego Clemencin, imitated by the elegant and poetical
the author of the “ Memoirs of Queen Calderon and the soft harmonious Guil
Isabella,” 6 vols. 4to. 1833-39. len de Castro. These three illustrious
Don Quixote has been translated authors were as nearly contemporaries
into most languages; but England, as Eschylus, Sophocles, and Euripides
whose practical genius had anticipated among the G-reeks ; Shakspere, Ben
this travestie of the knight-errant in the Jonson, and Ford among the English.
Sir Topaz of Chaucer,——England, the They elevated their stage to the highest
real nation for wit and genuine cari pitch of excellence, from whence it
cature, the land of Butler, Fielding, soon declined, for such is the condition
and I-[ogarth,—has published far more of human greatness. The first edition
splendid translations of Don Quixote of the theatrical works of Cervantes,
than the rest of the continent. The “ Ocko Comedias y Ocho Enbremeaes,”
best, in some respects, is the earliest, was published at Mad. by the Viuda
that of Thomas Skelton, 1612-1620, de Alonzo Martin, in 1615. It was
which breathes the spirit of the age republished at Mad. in 2 vols., 1749.
and quaint manners. Of those by The amusing little satire in verse of
Smollett, Jarvis, and Motteux, the last Cervantes, “El Viaje al Parnaso,” has
is the very worst. It is, however, a not been sufficiently estimated out of
peccado mortal——a heresy-—to read Don Spain. The first edition is that of
Quixote except in his own language. Alonzo Martin, Mad. 1614 ; Sancha
Such authors, like Dante, fix a language ; republished it at Mad. in 1784.
from the feeling that they cannot be The first edition of his other novels,
adequately translated we learn the ori “ Novelas earemplares,” that ofJuan de
ginal. What idea can be formed of Cuesta, Mad. 1613, is rare: in default
Shakspere, when curled and powdered of which the collector must be con
by Monsieur Ducis? Even Schiller tented with the Mad. edition of Sancha,
and Schlegel, translating into a cognate 2 vols. 1783; “Les trabajos dePers:iles,"
idiom a cognate work, have often were first published at Mad. in 1617.
Spain.—L M
242 nours 9.—-sramsn rnovaass-vALnEPs>?As. Sect. II.

One word now for honest Sancho mata are truly antique, and none wrote
Panza’s proverbs, Re;/‘ranes, which are ,them neater than the Spaniard Mar
peculiarly classical, Oriental, and 1 tial. Of such class was the inscription
Spanish. These ethical maxims, Fm on the girdle of Hern1ione—-¢i;.:/ _u| xx:
pm, these wise saws and instances, are _un Auwzflz; nv '71; exn ,u’ 2-raga: compare
in the mouth of every Solomon or them with the devices on the Spanish
Sancho of the Peninsula ; they are the cuchillos of Albecete, the “cutler’s
“refrain,” the chorus and burden of poetry.”
their song : they are the philosophy of ‘ Hence to Valdepefias, a straggling
the many, the condensed experience and mud-built place of some 11,000 souls,
knowledge of ages, when the wit of one , with an indifferent inn. The red blood
man becomes the wisdom of thousands. 1 of the grape issues from this valley of
The constant use of a refran gives the ,‘ stones, and is the produce of the Bur
Spaniard his sententious, dogmatical gundy vine, transplanted into Spain.
admixture of humour, truism, twaddlc, The liquor is kept in caves and in huge
and common sense ; a proverb well in tinajas or jars; when removed it is
troduced—magnas secatres: it is as de put into goat and pig-skins, cueros,
cisive of an argument in Spain as a bet such as Don Quixote attacked. The
is in England. This shotting a dis wine, when taken to distant places, is
course always is greeted with a smile generally adulterated; and, however
from high or low: it is essential, na much is pretended to be sold in Lon
tional, and peculiar, like the pitched i don, “neat as imported,” nothing is
skin borracha to Spanish wines, and more difficult than to get it there pure
garlic in their stews: therefore we have and genuine. Wlien pure, it is rich,
sometimes lardcd our humble pages fruity, full-bodied, high-coloured, and
with this flavouring condiment. will keep well, and improve for 10
Collectors of Spanish proverbs may years. The best Bodegas are those
purchase Prooerbios, Lopez de Mendo which belonged to Don Carlos, Juan
za, fol. Sevilla, 1509; Re;/‘runes, Her Puente, and the Marques dc Santa
nan Nunez el comendador, fol. Sala Cruz, who has a mansion here. The
manca, 1555; or the lite. ed., Lérida, wine is worth on the spot about 41.
1621, which has the curious work of the pipe; the land-carriage is, how
Mallara reprinted with it, the original ever, expensive, and it is apt, when
edition of which, entitled La Philoso conveyed in skins, to be tapped and
phia Vulgar, by Joan de Mallara, is watered by the muleteers, whence vino
a folio, Sevilla, 1568, and absolutely moro—that is, wine which has never
necessary to curious collectors. There been thus baptized-—is proverbially
is also Lu;/ares communes, 4to., printed popular: Valdepefias sometimes goes
at Madrid, 1613, by Juan de la Cuesta, wrong during the sea voyage; the best
the publisher of Cervantes. The mo plan is to send up double quarter sherry
dern collection by Repulles, in 6 duo. casks, which then must be conveyed to
volumes, is useful. Cadiz or Santander.
Santa Cruz de Mudela is a dull, un The town of Valdepeiias was sacked
wholesome town: pop. 5500. It is cele by the invaders, June 6, 1808, under
brated for its garters, which the women Liger Bellair; 80 houses were burnt,
offer for sale to the passengers; some and the unresisting, unarmed popula
are gaily embroidered and enlivened tion, butchered in the cellars in drunken
with apposite mottos, e. g. sport (Toreno, iv.).
" re digan estas ligas Valdepcfias lies about half-way be
M1’; penas 3/fatiga.s." tween Granada and Madrid; those
Soy de mi duerlo ,- Feliz quien las who wish to go to Estremadura will
aparia; intrepido es a/mar, de todo sale turn oif to the rt. through Saceruela.
vencidor; and so forth; but “H0ni~ The geologist and botanist, proceeding
soit qui mal y pense. These epigram to Seville, may make a riding detour,

...__.__,--2-sq-,--_-M.
Andalucia. ROUTE 9.'—CUEVA DE MONTESINOS. 243

visiting Ciudad Real and Almaden the Ca/mpo de Montiel. This site was
(see p. 247), and thence to Cordova, the last scene of the fratricidal warfare
avoiding thereby the uninteresting between Pedro the Cruel and Henry of
angle of Bailen and Andujar ; the Trastamara, who here butchered his
route will be found at p. 221. king and brother, aided by French
After leaving Valdepefias the misery knights, by whom the monarch was
of villages and villagers increases to held unfairly down in the death
Manzanares. Pop. 9000. Pa/radar del struggle. The decisive battle of Mon
Carrillo. The men get browner-and tiel was fought Wednesday, March 14-,
poorer, the women more ugly, country 1369. The dilatory Spaniard Pedro
and cloaks more rusty and threadbare. was s rised before his forces joined,
Hemp is a luxury for shoes, and the by the rapid Frenchman Mosen Bel
rare stocking is made like that of Va tran de Claquin, the “hero ” Du Ques
lencia, without feet, an emblem of a lin of the French, un oil traidor
student’s purse, open and containing according to the Spaniards. (See Cro
nothing. The cloaked peasants grouped nica del Rey Don Pedro, c. vi.). An
around their mud cabins seem to be indiiferent history of this king has been
statues of silence and poverty, yet the written by P. Merimée. The cave lies
soil is fertile in corn and wine. At the about 1 L. from the village of Osa ole
Venta de Quesada Don Quixote (que Montiel _.- it is near the Ermita de Saa
sada, lantern-_jawed) was knighted, and lices, and one of the lagunas, of which
Cervantes must have sketched the actual by the way there are 11, and not 7, as
inn, and its still existing well. The Cervantes says. They are full of fish ;
water communicates with the Gruadiana, each has its own name, that of La Col
the under-ground Mole of Spanish gada being the largest, deepest, and
rivers. Indeed, the ancient name, Anas, most interesting, because its cool waters
is derived from this “hide and seek” are guarded by the rock-built ruined
propensity; Hanas in the Punic, and castle of Rochafricla, in which lived
Hanasa in the Arabic, signifying “to Roca Florida, to whom Montesinos
appear and disappear.” It is called the was married.
I/ucalee by the Spanish Gitanos. The Al Castillo llaman Rocha,
Wadi-Anas, like the Guadalquivir, eats Y at la fuente Pride.
its dull way through loomy banks—a These lakes, these eyes of the Gua
subterranean not a submarine Alpheus : diana, which, according to the Don,
it rises in the swamps, or Lagumzs de were fed to overflowing, as the Nile was
Ruidera, and loses itself again 15 miles by the tears of Isis (Paus. x. 32, 18),
from its source, at Tomelloso ; it reap from the tears of Belerma, with her 7
pears, after flowing 7 L. underground daughters_and 2 maidens weeping for
at Daymiel. The lakes which it throws her Durandante, slain at Roncevalles,
up are called the eyes, Los qjos de la are really formed by the accumulation
Guadiana, and the ground above is of waters which flow down from the
called the bridge. This and the eyes Sierra de Alca/raz. The Cueva de
lead to trivial witticisms, in regard to Montesinos (Don Quix. 23) itself is
the dark glancing Manchegas, and this about 40 yards wide and 60 deep, and
bridge’s superiority over the Pont Neuf is used as a refuge in storms by hunters
at Paris. The disappearance is not and shepherds. The entrance is blocked
sudden, like that of file Rhone, which up with underwood. As in the Don’s
descends into a gulf, as here it is sucked time, it is the haunt of bats and birds,
up into unpicturesque marshes. Their who have deposited a bed of guano
chief interest arises from Don Quixote. nearly a foot thick. The cave probably
The Cueva. de Montesinos, into which was part of an ancient mine, as a laby
the knight descended, although the rinth of shafts have been traced, and
name savours of romance and the heaps of metallic rubbish, escoriales,
peerage of Charlemagne, really exists in found. There is a lake at the bottom.
M 2
244 ROUTE 9.—EL TOBOS0——MADRlDF..IOS. Sect. II.
Perhaps Madridejos is the most I bashfulncss ” (De Rer. Var. i. 10). A
convenient place to start from on a new road is in contemplation from
trip into Don Quixote’s coimtry, as El 1 Pucrto Lapiche to Almaden, and hence
Toboso lies about 7 L. distant, through into Estremadura.
Guero 4-, and Oxa de Moniiel; and Four L. from Manzanares to the rt.
only 8 L., through Solana 1, Alhambra is Argamasilla de Alba, in the prison
3, and thence 4 more. A pleasant~ of which Cervantes is said to have
tour might be made by following the written his Don Quixote. According
Don’s route, which commentators have to a tradition in the village he was
laid down, or rather attempted, fora confined in the Casa de Med-rano.
Cervantes wrote with the greatest geo But free and immortal have been the
graphical carelessness and inaccuracy. works composed in durance vile: the
See, however the map of his route in Bible was translated by Luther in the
the 2nd vol. of Pelliser’s Madrid edi Castle of VVartburg; the prison-engen
tion, 1798. dered poem of Tasso, and the pilgrimage
El Toboso is a poor place on a plain, of Bunyan, roam over the world fresh,
although of a European reputation; and unconfined as the air we breathe.
the name is derived from the iobas, or Near Villa/rta the province of New
sort of porous stones, which still, as in Castile is entered, which here resembles
the time of Cervantes, are much used in La Mancha. Madfldejos, pop. 7000,
making water-jars. According to Pel has a nice, cool, refreshing inn. The
liccr and Cervantic commentators, the bread is exquisite, although -the water
original of the Don’s sweetheart Dul is bad, and the cheese not much better,
cinea, Aldonza Lorenzo Corchuelo, was however well it did for the Alforjas of
a Miss Aldonza (a word which means honest, hungry Sancho, and his mule
sweet) Zarco de Morales, and she lived teer digestion. The railroad which runs
in the still existing Casa de Torrecilla. in 3 h. to Madrid commences at Tem
El Toboso was moreover founded by bleque,a cold,stony,wretched place. La
Don Perez Correa, for whom the sun Guardia, rising on a ridge of rocks, was
stood still (see Detentudia, p. 218). once an outpost guard against the
Continuing the high road to Madrid Moors. This hamlet was the birthplace
is Puerto Lapiehe, a poor place, where ofJuan Pass-amonte, elNifi0 de Guardia,
the Don informed Sancho that they the theme of many a pen and pencil of
might get elbow-deep in adventures. Spain. The Toledan clergy in 1490
The “ Pass ” is placed between two accused the rich Jews of crucifying a
olive-clad gentle slopes, with sundry Christian boy at their Passovers, and
groups of windmills, which, being putting his heart into a Hosiia, and
smaller than ours, are really not un for the pretended sacrifice of this Juan,
like giants at a distance; they are the wealthiest Israelites were burnt
very numerous, for this is a count of and their chattels confiscated. This
much corn to grind, and little water accusation was very prevalent, e. g.
power. The crack-brained knight our St. William of Norwich, and
might well be puzzled by these mills, the boy Hugh of Lincoln. Consult,
for they were novelties at that time, on this legend, and miracles of eZNi1'io
having only been introduced into de Gua/rdia,works by Rodrigo de Yepes,
Spain in 1575, and had just before 4to. Madrid, 1583; by Juan Marieta,
perplexed even Cardan, the wise man 8vo., Mad. 1604 ; by Sebastian de
of his age, who describes one as if it Nieva ; by Ant. Guzman, 1720, and
had been a steam-engine: “Nor can I also by Pisa. The orthodox account
pass over in silence what is so won is painted in the parish church of La
derful, that before I saw it I could Guardia, and in the hermitage Jesus
neither believe nor relate it without the actual cave is shown in which the
incurring the imputation of credulity ; martyred boy was kept and scourged \
but 8 thirst for science overcomes three months before the Jews crucified
r
Anclalucia. noura 9.—ocA§.i—sr. narssr. 2-lo

him: (!l'8(l8l1Jl1ClB?l15. Here, and indeed ‘spectator of his own disgrace, Qving
generally in these corn-growing central no directions whatever, except -to order
plains, the traveller should remark the his reserve, a body of 15,000 men,
eras, the common Spanish and Oriental who had not fired a shot, to retreat.
threshing-floors in the open air, and He then, and Freire, the hero of San
the driving the trillo over the corn, Marcial! set the example of flight;
with horses, after a most Homeric nor did either even attempt to make a
fashion (see Gatherings, p. 115). The stand behind the impregnable rocks of
females hereabouts look half Swiss, half Despeiia-perros or Alcala la Real.
Dutch, with their blue and green petti Their unhappy troops, deserted by
coats and handkerchiefs under their their chiefs, could but follow their
chins. The miserable population, whose leaders. La Mancha was covered with
houses were burnt by the invaders, bur runaways. Soult took 42 cannon,
row like rabbits in troglodyte excava 26,000 prisoners, and killed 5000,
tions, whence they emerge to beg of the while his loss barely reached 1600.
diligences as they ascend the hill. The Spanish army disappeared from
Thence to Ocafia, between which and the face of the earth: after the Oriental
Los Barrios the Spaniards, Nov. 19, fashion, every man fled to his city and
1809, suffered a defeat, one of the country. But Ocafia is but a thing of
greatest of these many feats. In that Spain, past and present, where mis
year the Junta of Seville, urged by fortune is no school. Compare Me
intriguers who sighed to get back to dellin, Cindad Real, &c. Ocaiia was
Madrid, and by others who wished to forthwith sacked, and the precious
do without the English assistance, de archives of the Ayuntamiento burnt.
termined, in defiance of the Duke’s _ Buonapartc, who, jealous that it
warnings and entreaties, to assume the could be supposed in France that any
offensive. His letters seem really to one could do great things except him
have been Written after the events, and self (Fey, i. 159), scarcely noticed the
not before them, so completely, with event. “ Le .Mom'teur fit 5. peine men
the intuition of strong sense, did he tion de cette memorable aifaire, dont
understand the Spaniards; and so truly celui qui l’avait conduits eut pu comme
did he prophesy their certain discom César rendre compte en trois mots,
fiture, the loss of Andalucia, and his veni, vidi, vici.” Yet as a victory it
own compulsory retreat into Portugal. was most important, since it fixed
The Junta prepared an army of 60,000 Joseph on the tottering throne, gave
men, armed and equipped by English Granada to Sebastiani, Seville to Soult,
monies. The leader, one Juan Carlos and placed the treasures and supplies
de Areizaga, advanced from the defiles, of rich unpillaged Andalueia in their
giving out that the English were with clutches. “Alas!” said the Duke,whose
him; and such fear thereupon prevailed great plans were thus frustrated, “that
at Madrid, where the report was be a cause which promised so well a few
lieved, that the enemy thought at once weeks ago should have been so com
of retreating without a fight ; and had pletely lost by the ignorance, pre
Areizaga advanced, he must have sur sumqotion, and mismanagement of those
prised and overwhelmed the handful of to whose direction it was confided”
French at Aranjuez (Belmas, i. 99) : (Disp. Dec. 6, 1809). “Nothing would
having, however, by his delay given do but fighting great battles in plains,
Soult the moans of collecting troops, he 1 in which their defeat is as certain as
then, as if infatuated, risked a. battle in is the commencement of the battle.”
the plain. There two short hours more Ferdinand VII., a prisoner atValen<;ay,
than sufiiced for 25,000 brave French to was mean or false enough, probably
put 55,000 Spaniards to an indescribable both, to write to congratulate Joseph
rout, during which Areizaga placed i this on this victory (Schep.
incompetent i. 69); while
Areizaga—Honrad2s
himself on a belfry in Ocaiia, a mute
246 ROUTE 10.—vALnEPEfiAs TO ALMADEX. Sect. ll.

simo militar! repeats Madoz now-a nakedness. A railroad, opened Nov.


days, 210-who lost it, instead of 13, 1850, runs from the portal of the
being cashiered, was presented by the palace to Madrid.
Junta with a fine horse, and was after Continuing by the road soon after
wards made Captain General of Biscay passing Valdemoro, which, why and
by this very Ferdinand in 1814 : Cosas wherefore we know not, is coupled with
de Espafia. Pinto, to express a “half tipsy, half
The diligence Pa/radar and Posada seas-over man ” in Spain, is the castle
de los Catalanes are decent ; Ocafia is of Pinto, in which the Princess of Eboli
an uninteresting place, with some di was confined by Philip II. The
lapidated barracks: pop. 5000. As Hermitage and Telegraph of Pinto is
the roads from Valencia, Murcia, and considered to be the central point of
Andalucia meet here, there is a con the Peninsula. Soon Madrid is per
stant passage of carriages, carts, and‘ ceived, rising on a broken eminence
muleteers ; members of the temperance out of an apparent plain. Only a
society will find the water here, which portion being seen, it looks small, mo
is so scarce and bad in La Mancha, most dem, and un-Spanish, from its low
abundant and delicious. The fuente domes and extinguisher-shaped spires :
1>ie_;'a,- with its aqueduct, has been attri the last relay is at Los Angeles, “ The
buted to the Romans. The public Angels,” where devils would not live
lavadero is worth the artist’s attention could they help it. Approaching the
for picturesque groups of garrulous bed of the Manzanares the scene im
particoloured washer-women. Alonso proves, especially when there is any
de Ercilla, the author of the ‘Amu water in it-. The dip is crossed by a
cana,’ the epic of Spanish literature, superb viaduct. The diligence usually
was buried in the convent of Carmelitas winds round the mean mud walls to the
Descalzas. His ashes were scattered rt., enters the Puerta de Atocha, and
to the dust by Soult’s troops; yet then passes through the Prado and
Ercilla was a soldier, and soldiers have Calls de Alcald ,- thus offering, for the
been the best poets and novelists of first sight, the best promenade and
the Peninsula. At Ocaiia the natural finest street of the capital. For Madrid,
son of Philip IV., Don Juan of Aus see Sect. xi., New Castile.
tria, who played such a distinguished
part in the minority of Charles 11.,
was brought up. The natural children Rooms 1O.—VALnnrE1§As T0
of the Spanish kings never were allowed
to enter Madrid during their father’s ALMADEN.
life, from the grandees disputing their Moral . 2
taking precedence over them. Almagro. . 2 4
Emerging through a rocky gorge of Ciudad Real. . . . 3 7
_Al Corral de Caraquel. 3 10
volcanic hills, we reach Aranjuez (for Cabezarados. . 3 13
details consult Index); and on pass Abenojar 1 14
ing the palace, and the Plaza de San Saceruela . 4 18
Almaden 5 23
Antonio, the Tagus is crossed by an
iron suspension bridge. Driving up The road to Ciuda-d Real is carriage
the verdurous calle larga, a noble stone able. It is in contemplation to improve
bridge, built by Charles III., is carried the whole route from Puerto Lapin-Ize
across the Jarama. After ascending and thence on to Almaden, and so on
the Cu-esta de la Reina, the descent into Estremadura. Almagro is a well
recommences, and the oasis Aranjuez, built, agricultural town, with a fine
with its green meadows, gardens, night convent'0f the Calatrava order of the
ingales, and waterspringsy disappears, 16th century: observe the staircaise
while its remembrance becomes doubly and cloisters. Much blond lace is
delightful from the contrast with tawny made here. At 1% L. distant, on the
Andalucia, ROUTE lO.—ESPA RTERO——ClUDAD REAL. 247
road to Almodovar del Campo, is Gra ras : this royal city, although Cervantes
natula, the village in which Baldomero did call it “imperial and the seat of the
Espartero was born, in 1790. His god of smiles,” is one of the poorest and
father was an humble dealer in Esparto. dullest of the inland capitals of Spa'
The son, destined to be a monk, began and one of the most atrasado, and tha
life as a poor student, but, when the is saying something: pop. about 10,000.
war of independence broke out, his The capital of its province, one rich in
martial turn led him to join el batallon mines and in neglected capabilities, it
sagrado. In 1816 he volunteered to was built on a plain near the Gua
serve in S. America. Having, it is dia/na by Alonso el Sabio, and entitled
said, won money of Ca-nterac and other Real by Juan II. in 1420; portions of
generals, with whom pay was in a case the walls with towers remain. Before
of stagnation, he was paid by‘promo the final conquest of Granada it was,
tion. He fought well during the pre in fact, the frontier city and seat of
vious campaigns against Bolivar. This the Court of Chancery for the south.
war was ended by the battle of Aya Here Ferdinand and Isabella organised
cuch0,* in Lower Peru, where Sucre the Hermandad, a mounted brother
(Dec. 8, 1825) completely defeated the hood, a gemlarmerie or guardia civil,
royalists. A Ointra convention ensued, to protect the roads. Among the few
by which the beaten officers secured objects at Oiudad Real, visit the noble
their safe transportation to Spain, and pile of the hospital founded by Cardinal
to new titles; hence the depreciatory Lorenzana, converted into a barracks
apodo, or nickname, Los Ayac-uchos, of by Sebastiani; notice the curious strong
which Maroto, Valdes, Rodil, Tacon, semi moresque Pam-ta clc Toledo. The
Seoane, and sundry other mediocrities city is under the patronage of the Vir
were among the stars. Espartero hav gin del Prado ; her image, found in a
i.ng obtained the rank of a colonel, and meadow, is the palladium of the parish
being quartered at Logrofio, there mar church ; the silver olferings disappeared
ried Dofia Jacinta de la Cruz, a most mostly in the last war. This church
excellent lady of considerable fortune. has a magnificent single Gothic nave
The A_1/acuchos, companions in dis and a Retablo with subjects from the
grace, clung afterwards together; the Passion, carved in 1616 by Giraldo do
defeats by the Carlists of the blunder Merlo, and almost equal to Montafies:
ing Valdes, Cordova, and Co., made a lofty tower has recently been built.
way for Espartero, whose fortune was _ Near Ciudad Real, on the 27th
completed by the death of Zumulacar March, 1809, while Victor was routing
regui, and his relief of Bilbao by help the “old blockhead” Cucsta at Me
of the English ; then he soon managed dellin, did Sebastiani, with only 12,000
the Vex-gara convention with his brother men, by one charge! put to instanta
Ayaoucho Maroto, and thus rose to be neous flight 19,000 Spaniards, com
the Duke of Victory. Personally a manded by Urbina, Conde de Cartoajal,
very brave and honest man, he was This pobrecito had marched and coun
timid and vacillating in authority, and termarched his Bisoilos almost to death
therefore fell under the intrigues of for 48 hours, and for no object (Toreno,
Christina and Louis Philippe; as _Re viii.). In the moment of attack he lost
gent he was disposed to govern accord his head, and one regiment of Dutch
ing to constitutional law.Now-a--days hussars! scattered the whole Spanish
-—l854.i——he has abetter chance. Ve army! 1500 were killed, 4000 taken
remos. prisoners. Cartoajal and the rest they
Ciudad Real; .Po.s-ada dc las More ran away: then, as usual, were lost all
‘ Ayzuucho is an Indian word, and signifies the English arms and stores provided
the “plain of the dead,“ as it was the site of for the defence of the Sierra Morena,
one of Almagrds and Pizarro's early butcheries but which, entrusted to fools and
of the poor aborigines, whose manes were now
avenged. cowards, became, in fact, so much
248 ROU rs ll.-—SEVJLLE TO BADAJOZ. Sect. II.
assistance, as elsewhere, to the common leaves, still appears on the chief edi
enemy. Cartoajal, instead of being fices, although generally defaced by the
cashiered, was praised! by the Cadiz French. First visit the ducal Palacio,
regency, and was declared to have de passing out by the handsome granite
served well of his country! (Schep. P-aerta del Acebuche: this Gothic Al
ii. 671). caza/r was erected, as an inscription
The Spanish army disappeared from . over the portal states, by Lorenzo
the faccof the earth ; after the Oriental Suarez de Figueroa, in 1437. Near
fashion, every man fled to his city and the porch is one of the curious primi
country. But all this is but a thing tive iron-ribbed cannon, saved from
of Spain, past and present. What says the many others which the invaders
Livy (xxx. 17), describing the victory destroyed when they plundered‘ the
of lllanlius: “ Turdetani (the Andalu once curious armoury and made a for
cians), freti tamen multitudine sud ob tress of the palace. The patio has been
viam ierunt agmini Romano. Eques im modernized in the Herrera style, and
missus turbavit ea-temple aeiem eorum. is handsome, with fine marbles, Ionic
Pedestre prazlium nullius ferme certa and Doric pillars, and a fountain. The
minis fuit. Milites veteres, perites hos interior, gutted by the enemy, has been
fium bellique, haud dubiam pugnam degraded by the stewards of the duke,
fccere.” Again, on another occasion, who have from time to time suited this
“Pulsi castris Hispani, aut qui ex once lordly dwelling to their base wants
praelio effugerant sparsi primo per and tastes. The open arched galleries
agros (see Talavera, &e.), deinde in between the huge towers of the Aleazar
suas quisque civitates redierimt” (Livy, command fine views over the gardens
xxix. 2). and olive-grounds of the environs.
Adjoining to the Alcazar is the unfi
nished convent of Santa Marin a, which
Room: 11.—SEVILLE T0 Banuoz. was desecrated by the invaders. In
Aracsna . . . 18 the chapel observe the sepulchre of
Segura de Leon. KNNWWWQ Margaret Harrington, daughter of Lord
Valencia.
Zufra. . . . . Exton, erected in 1601 by her cousin,
Fuente del Maestre the Duchess of Feria, also an English
Santa Marta woman; she was the Jane Dormer, the
Albuera .
Badajoz . most trusted of Queen Mary’s ladies of
honour, and the wife of Philip II.’s
This, the mountain road, must be. ambassador in London at the important
ridden: for the first 24 L. see p. 216. moment of Elizabeth’s succession. Her
At Valencia, 3 L. from Segura de Leon, body rests here, but, true to her country
is another fine castle. Passing Medina in death, she sent her heart to England.
de lac Torres we reach Zafra, placed Her eifigy kneels before a prie Dieu,
under a denuded ridge to the 1.: pop. with a mantle on her head ; it was once
some 5000. Posada de Pepe indif painted, but has been whitewashed : her
ferent. This most ancient city was the portrait was destroyed by the French.
Segeda of the Iberians and Julia Resti Going out of the Puerta de Sevilla
tuta of the Romans. It is full of is a nice little alameda, with a delicious
buildings begun in better times and on water-spring, brought in on arches, and
a grand scale, but they have either re called La fuente del Duque. Among
mained unfinished, or have been de the Grseco-Romano buildings in Zafra
stroyed by the invaders under Drouet, observe the magnificent marble Doric
in 1811. and Ionic patio of La Casa Grande,
The great lords of Zafra were the built by the Daza Maldonados, and the
Figueroas, whose dukedom of Feria is fine colonnades ; notice also the Doric
now merged in that of the Medina Celi. and Ionic brick tower of the Colcgiala;
Their shield, charged with canting fig neither of these edifices are finished, or
Andalucia. aoura 12.-—SEVILLE TO BADAJOZ. 249
ever will be: meantime the Plaza de Draco process has passed into a pro
Toros has been completed. verb; he convicted and executed all
Visit next the Santa Clara, founded culprits-—the old for what they had
by the Figucroas in 1428 (see date done, the young ones for what they
over portal); the invaders desecrated would have done, had they been spared
this convent and mutilated the recum and grown up; he it was who hung
bent figures of the founder and his up the Bishop of Zamora at Simancas.
wife, and a Roman statue in a toga and Above Santa Olalla is a. ruined
sandals: observe the efligy of Garci Moorish castle,-whence enjoy a pano
lazo de la Vega, killed before Granada rama of mountains. Soon we enter
in the presence of Enrique IV.; re Estremadura (see Sect. vii.). At Mo
mark his singular bonnet. The French nasterio, Posada del Montaales, is the
made this gallant knight’s statue, with point where the waters part, descend
others of the Figueroa family, the butt ing either into the G-uadiana or Gum
of wanton outrage ; observe that with dalquivir. Fuente de Cantos is the
out a head, called Dona Maria de Moya. birth-place of Zurbaran ; the hill towns
The road at Zafra diverges, and are uninteresting and agricultural ; the
passes either to Merida, 9 L., by dreary natives seldom stray beyond their pa
Almendralejo, where, Aug. 25, 1847, rishes or are visited by strangers. Pigs
the great silver Disco of Theodosius and game of all kinds thrive in these
was found, now at Madrid in the Aca ranges of the Sierra Morena.
demy of History, and then either by Albuera—Pa0"ador del agua-—an in
arid Torre .Mq;'<ia, or by the high road significant hamlet of itself, owes its
through Albuera. European fame to its “ glorious field of
grief,” and the murderous conflict,
May 16, 1811, between Soult and Be» C
resford. Passing the bridge the town
Rourn 12.—S1:v1LLE T0 BADAJOZ. rises in front ; the battle took place on
Guillena . . 4 the ridge to the l. After Massena-, in
Ronquillo . 3 . 7 stead of driving the English into the.
Santa Olalla 4 . . 11 sea, as he boasted, was himself driven
Monasterio . . . 4 - 15
Fuente de Cantos . 3 . . 18 by them from Santarem, the Duke ad
Los Santos . . 4 . 22 vanced on Estremadura to retake Ba
Santa Marta 5 . . 27 dajoz; but his plans were marred, by
Albuera . 3 . 30 Mahy’s negligence in Gallicia, which
Badaioz . . . - 4 - - 34
forced him to return. Now, rapid ex
A diligence, bad and dear, runs this pedition was everything, as the fortress
line in from 24 to 30 h. : the posadas was to be pounced upon before the
are indifferent throughout. This ex French could relieve it, yet Beresford’s
tremely uninteresting road winds over “unfortunate delay” gave Philippon
the Sierra Morena chain. Few travellers the governor, ample time to provision
are ever met with save the migratory and strengthen the place, besides en
caravans, which bring corn down from abling Soult to march from Seville to
Salamanca and take back salt from its relief. Blake and Castafios, gluts
Cadiz. The carts, oxen, men, and dogs tons for fighting, then persuaded Be
are made for artists, and their nightly resford to risk a general action when
bivouacs of sheep, folded or rather nothing could be gained by a victory,
netted in en/redelados with ropes of for the siege was virtually raised, While
esparto, and clustering by the sides of a reverse would have entirely paralysed
the roads, in the glens and underwood, the Duke, a.nd neutralised the glories
arc very nomade, national, and pic of Torres Vedras. Beresford had only
turesque. Ronquillo rejoices in having about 7000 English, and, although he
given birth to the famous Alcalde of knew the ground well, “occupied it,”
Charles V., a Spanish Jeflries, whose. says Napier, “ in such a manner as to
M 3
250 ROUTE l2.——BATTLE or ALBUERA. Sect. II.

render defeat almost certain." He was 4158, of the Spaniards 1365. The Duke
the only man in the army who did not in public shielded Beresford, whose
see that the hill to the rt. was his really great capabilities for drilling the Por
vulnerable point, and where, to make tuguese he justly appreciated. “Ano
bad worse, he placed the Spaniards. ther such a battle, however,” wrote he
Soult, who saw the blot, attacked and privately, “ would ruin us. I am
drove them back without difficulty, and working hard to set all to rights again.”
the “ whole positionwas raked and com On the 21st he visited the field, and
manded.” Then Houghton led up the in a few weeks ofl'ered Soult another
57th, who saved the day, the Spaniards chance of another victory, which the
remaining, as at Barrosa, “quiet specta Marshal, who knew that a better man
tors.” “ Out of 1400 men 1050 were was come in, politely declined; he,
killed and wounded;” “the dead lay in however, claimed the “complete VlC
their ranks, every man with a wound in tory” as his ; and now his non-sacces is
the front.” Their brave leader fell at ascribed to the numerical superiority of
their head, cheering them on to the the English. Durosoir (Guide, 244)
simply states that 20,000 French fought
bayonet charge, which, as usual, settled
the alfair. “Then 1500 unwounded men, against 45,000 English or Spaniards;
the remnant of 7000, stood,” writes which Bory de St. Vincent (Guide, 109)
Napier, “ triumphant on the fatal hill.” makes out to be 22,000 against 50,000,
“ This little battalion,” says the Duke, Soult/s real forces amounting to 19,000
“alone held its ground against all the foot and 4000 horse; thus history is
French colonnes en masse.” Soult in written in France; for the truth, read
vain pushed on with the reserves under Napier 6), and his unanswerable
WVerle', who was killed, and his troops and unanswered replies to Beresford,
fled, throwing away their arms (Vict. et vol. vi. andtheDuke’s ‘Dispatches’ (vol.
Conq. xx. 242) : “ Mais que pouvuient vii.). The Portuguese also claim the
5000 baionettes contre un ennemi fighting as theirs: “apres la bataille
quatre fois plus nombreux ?”—for thus d’Albuera,” relates Schepeler, “j’en
1600 men are converted into 20,000 tendis moi-méme un oflicier Portugais
men in buck!-am by one dash of a dire, ‘Les Espagnols se sont battus
French pen. comme des Zions, les Portugais comme
Beresford, who had actually ordered des serpens, mais les Anglais Niente
Halket to retreat, was saved, says Na Niente!’ (not at a.l1,) dit-il avec dé
pier (xii. 6), by Col. Hardinge, who, on dain ;” and the Spaniard Blake, in his
his own responsibility, brought up Cole letter thanking the Regency for making
and Abercrombie; others, however, him a captain-general for his services
and Beresford’s dispatch, assign this on this day, never even alluded to
merit to Cole, who in fact was the su the English; and now-a-days, all the
perior oflicer. glory is claimed by Nosotros ; accord
Both armies bivouacked on the ing to Madoz (i. 343), the English di
ground; and had Soult the next day, vision was saved by Ballasterosl and
with his 15,000 Frenchmen, ventured this signal instance of Spanish inelfi
to renew the attack against 1600 Eng ciency termed, “ Una dc las mas dignas
lisl1, he must have succeeded ; but, glorias dcl Pueblo Espafiol J! Recently,
awed by their bold front, he retired, however, a sort of monument has been
leaving nearly 1000 wounded to his erected in which, credite posteri! even
repulser’s mercy. His army, even in the names of the English generals are
the words of Belmas (i. 184), his own insci-ibed—what a compliment to them
author, “ se débanda dans le plus ——pari passu, with those of the Spa
affreux désordre ; le moral se trouvait niards! For
Those who Badajoz,
wish to avoidsee Sect. can
Badajoz
fort aifecté.” The French real loss was
between 8000 and 9000 men—even they ride in one long day direct from Albuera
admit 2800; that of the English was to Merida, about 10 L. through Lobon.
Ronda <§' Granada. ( 251 )

SEOTIONIII.
RONDA AND GRANADA.

COXTENTS.

The Serrania de Ronda; Character ofthe Country and Natives ; Smuggling.


PAGE PAGE
ROUTE 13.'—SI-IVILLE TO GRANADA 254 QRANAQA,-------.-..----.291
Osuna; Loju. Excursions near Granada; Soto de
Roma; Sierra Nevada; Quarries of San
noun: l4.—CORDOVA T0 GRANADA 256 Juan; Ultimo Suspiro.
noun: 15.—s|~:vn.1.1~: T0 GRANADA. 258 noun: 26.——cxANAI>A T0 ADRA - -329
,The Aipujan-as; Lanjarou; Berja.
ROUTE 16.—-ANDUJAR TO GRANADA 258
Jaen. mourn 27.—AnRA TO MALAGA - - -332
ROUTE 17.-—-SEVILLE T0 RONDA- - - 260 nouns 28.—Mo'r1uL T0 unANA1_>A .332
Moron; Olvera.
noun: 29.—ADRA T0 CARTAGENA. 335
nouns l8.—s1~:vn.1,n TO BONDA. . . 260 Almeria; Cabo de Gum.
Zahara.
ROUTE 30-—ALMERIA T0 JAEN ' ' 335
noun: 19.-snvnm: T0 noNnA. . . 260
Mame]; Orcem; Ubeda; Baeza; Linares.
Ronda.

ROUTE 20.-—RONDA'1‘0 XEREZ - - - -263 SKELETON TOURS l-‘OR RIDERS,


Grazalema; Arcos.
No. 1.
noun: 2l.—RONDA T0 GRANADA - -264 Ecija. Gibraltar.
Teba; Antequera. Osuna. Malaga.
Ronda. Alhama.
noun: 22.—RONDA -ro MALAGA. . .266 Gaucin, Granada,

noun: 23.—RONDA T0 GrrmA1.'rAn.267 N0, 2.


Gaucin; San Roque; Gibraltar; Trips to Granada. Almeria.
Africa; Ceuta; Tangiers; Tetuan. Padul. Adm.
Lanjaron. Motril.
Ujijah. Durcal.
nourr. 24.—c.nmAr:rAn T0 1uA1.AGA2S0 Berja. Granada.
Fuengirola; Monda.
The last of these two Routes is well suited
IlJOIOIIIIOOlOlln283 for geological md botanical pursuits. The
early summer and autumnal months are the
noun: 25.—MALAcA TO GRANADA .288 best periods for these excursions.
Velez Malagu; Alhama.

_i_>-—

Tm-: SERRANIA nu RONDA.


Tm: jumble of mountains of which Ronda is the centre and ca ital, lies to the
1. of the basin of the Guadalquivir, and between the sea and t e kingdom of
252 THE sauuazvm DE HONDA. Sect. III.

Granada. The districts both of Ronda and Granada are an Alpine inter
change of hill and valley: although only separated a few leagues from the
plains and coasts of Seville and Malaga, the difference of climate and geo
graphy is most striking; thus, while the barley harvests are over in the tierra
caliente about the middle of May, the crops in the Vega of Granada are green
in June. These mountains form the barrier which divides the central zone
from the southern, and are a sort of offshoot from the great Sierra Morena
chain. Temperate .RO’!Ldt.l is consequently much resorted to in the summer
by the parched inhabitants of the hotter districts. Ronda, elevated amidst
its mountains, enjoys at once the fresh breezes from the sea and the open
country; the air is pure, rare, and bracing: thus, in summer the mornings
and evenings are cool, although the thermometer in the shade reaches 80° at
mid-day, when the prudent traveller, invalid or not, will restore his bodily
vigour by an indoor siesta.
The roads are steep, rugged, and bad: many are scarcely practicable even
for mules. The Spaniards in olden times never wished to render their
Seville frontier very accessible to the Moors, and now the fear of facilitating
an invasion from Gibraltar prevented the Bourbon from improving the com
munications. The posudus are not much better than the roads, and suit the
iron frames, and oil and garlic ilia and digestions of the smugglers and robbers,
who delight, like the chamois, in hard fare and precipices. The traveller
must attend to the provend or “ proband,” as the great authority Captain
Dalgetty would say: a caballero visiting these hungry localities should “ victual
himself with vivers ” for three days at least, as there is no knowing when and
where he may get a tolerable meal. Ronda and Granada are good central
spots for excursions. Their snowy sierras are river sources for the tierras
<.-.1/icntcs, and the fruits and vegetation in the fresh hills are those of Switzer
land; thus to the botanist is offered a range from the hardiest lichen of the
Alps, down to the orange and sugar-cane in the maritime strips. This serrania
is best seen in the summer, for at other times either the cold is piercing, or
the rains swell the torrents, which become impassable.
The natural strength of this country has from time immemorial suggested
sites for “ hill-forts ” (Hirt. ‘ B.H.’ 8), the type of which is clearly Oriental;
perched everywhere like eagles’ nests on the heights, and exactly where a
painter would have placed them for a picture, they are the homes of brave
highlanders, to whom the chase and smuggling are daily bread. The French,
during the Peninsular war, were so constantly beaten back by these sharp
shooters that they became very shy of attacking hornets’ nests fuller of lead
than gold. These partisans were true sons of the Iberians of old, those Spanish
cohorts which defeated the Romans “ sub jugo montis,” in rocky defiles, the
types of Roncesvalles and Bailen. “ Adsuetoir montibus et ad concursandum
inter saxa rupesque.” (Livy, xxii. 18). The hills were their “ country ;”
for Diod. Siculus has anticipated Rob Roy’s designation of his wild domain.
“ The Gue/'illera,” said the Duke, “ is the only useful arm ; he is better ac
quainted with his trade than what is culled the ofiicer of the regular Spanish
army; he knows the country better, and is better known to the inhabitants,
and above all he has no pretension to military character” (Disp. May 3d,
l8l0). The raw material of the guerillero was in all times the bandit; robbery
was the stock on which this patriotism best sprouted. Compare Livy, xxviii.
21; Florus, ii. 17, 15; Strabo, iii. 238, with the modern warwhoop, “ Viva
Fernando 3/ vamos robando.” The system of smuggling is the best organised
one in this uncommercial land, where the contrabandism corrects the blunder
ing chancellors of exchequers and custom-house oflicers. Spain has an
enormous frontier to watch, and is a land in which an honest oflicial seldom
grows; all duties above 25 per cent. everywhereencourage the smuggler, and
here the fiscal regulations are so ingeniously absurd, that the fair merchant is
Ronda & Granada. THE SMUGGLERS or norms. 253
as much hampered thereby, as the irregular trader is favoured; the operation of
prohibitory and excessive duties on articles which people must, and therefore
will have, leads to breaches of the peace, injury to the fair dealer, and loss to
the revenue; the enormous profits tempt the peasantry from honest occupa
tions, and render those idle, predatory, and ferocious, who under a wiser system
would remain virtuous and industrious; the fiscal is the curse of Spain and
Spaniards, it fosters a body of reckless, active armed men, who know the country
well, and are ready for any outbreak. They emerge, elements of disturb
ance, from their lairs, whenever the political horizon darkens, just as the stormy
petrel comes forth from his hidden home to usher in the tempest. Smuggling
habituates the already well-disposed Spaniard to breaches of the law, to a
defiance of constituted authority; and a hatred to the excise, which pinches his
belly, is as natural to the heart of man, as a dislike to duties on dress is to the
soul of woman. In Spain the evasion is not deemed a heinous crime, or a moral
oifence, but barely a conventional one; a malum prolzibitum, not a mal-:1m per se ,
those who defraud the custom-house are only considered as attacking an odious
administration by which the nation at large is robbed. The masses in Spain
go heart and mind with the smuggler, as they do in England with the poacher.
They shield a bold useful man who supplies them with a good article at a fair
price. Nay, some of the mountain curates, whose flock are all in that line,
just deal with the offence as a pecado venial, and readily absolve those who
pay for a very little detergent holy water. '
The Spanish smuggler, so far from feeling himself to be a criminal or de
graded, enjoys in his country the brilliant reputation which attends daring
personal adventure, among a people proud of individual prowess. He is the
model of the popular sculptor and artist—the hero of the stage, its Macheath :
he comes on dressed out in full Majo costume, with his retajo or blunderbuss
in his_ hand, and sings the well-known Seguidilla : “ Y0 que soy contra
bandista, yo ho! ” to the delight of the old and young, from the Straits to the
Bidasoa, tide-waiters not excepted. In his real character he is welcome in
every village; he brings sugar and gossip for the curate, money and cigars for
the attorney, ribbons and cottons for the women. He is magnificently dressed,
which has a great charm for all Moro-Iberian eyes, whose delight is Boato, or
external ostentation. He is bold and resolute. “ None but the brave deserve
the fair.” He is a good rider and shot, knows every inch of the intricate
country, wood or water, hill or dale; he swears and smokes like a man, and
displays, in short, all those daring, active, and independent personal energies
which a debasing misgovernment has elsewhere too often neutralized.
The expensive preventive service of Resgum-dos, Oarabineros, &c., which is
everywhere established in order to put down the smuggler, in reality rather
assists him, than otherwise. The cmpleados of all kinds receive a very small
salary, and that is often ill-paid. It is impossible to resist the temptation of
making in one evening more than a six-months’ pay: practically the custom
house ofiicers receive their emoluments from the smuggler, who can readily
obtain all the oflicial documents, legal certificates, &c., on false returns ; again
on the frontier, where armed parties are stationed to intercept smugglers, a
free passage is bargained for with those very guards who were placed there
to prevent it; quis custodes custodiet? The commander, when duly bribed,
pretends to receive information of smuggling in a distant quarter, withdraws
his men, and thus leaves everything open for “ running the cargo.” These
gentry; in fact, only worry inoffensive travellers, or, in a word, all who do not
pay them hush money.
The traveller near Gibraltar will see enough of the Contrabmzdista Rmuieaio,
and a fine fellow he is: a cigar and a bota of wine open his heart at the Venta
fire-side, and he likes and trusts an Englishman, not that he wont rob him if
in want of cash. The C'0'ntrabcmdz'sta of Ronda is one of the most picturesque
of his numerous class in a locality where “ everybody smuggles."
254 noun: 13.—0SUNA. Sect. III.
inaccessible in wet weather and winter.
Posada, Caballo Blanca, and del Rosario,
ROUTE l3.— SEVILLA TO Gaanana, BY
Osuna.
at the outside, coming from Seville.
The apex of the triangular hill is
There are many ways of performing crowned by a. castle and the colegiata ;
the journey from Seville to Granada; the streets are straggling; the build
lst, by steam to Cadiz and Malaya, and ings are whitened with cal de llloron ;
the carnation pinks, grown in pots
thence by Loja in the diligence ; 2ndly,
by riding across the wild country imbedded in the houses, are superb.
through Osuna ; 3rdly, by going in the Osuna was called Gemina Urban
diligence to C07‘dO'Ua, and then riding orum, because 2 legions, and both of
over the mountains by Alcahi la Real; Rome, happened to be quartered there
and 4thly, which perhaps is the best at the same time. The Spanish annalists
for ladies, by coach to Andnjar, and prefer deriving the name from Osuna,
then across to Jam, or by the Madrid daughter of Hispan, who married
diligence up to Bailen, and thence tak Pyrrhus, a killer of boars; hence the
ing the down diligence to Granada. arms of the city, a castle with 2 boars
chained to a window. The early coins
Gandul . . . . . 3
Aralml . . . . - . 4 7 found here are numerous and curious
La Puebla . . . . 4 ll (Florez, ‘ M.’ ii. 625). Oszma was
Osuna . . . . . 3 14 taken from the Moors in 1240 ; Philip
Pedrera . . . - . . 3 17
Roda . . . . . . . 2 19 II. granted it to Pedro Giron, whom
Alameda . . . . . . 2 21 Francois I. used to call Le bel Espagnol.
Va. de Archidona . .. . 4 25 For this noble family (doubtless de
Loja . . . . . . s as scendants of the fabulous Geryon) con
Va. de Cacin . . . - . 2 30
Granada . . . - . . 6 36 sult the ‘ Compendio de los Girones,’
Jer". Gudiel, Aleala, 1577. The Girons
This direct road, between these im became the true patrons of Osuna;
portant cities, can scarcely be called thus Juan Tellez, in 1534, founded the
one; the line is, however, practicable church, and his son, in 1549, the col
for carriages during the summer, and lege. Ascend to the castle: the
is taken by the galera, which performs panorama is extensive. The colegiata,
the journey in 6 days; in England a built in 1534, in the mixed Gothic
railroad would run it in 6 h. There is and cinque-cento style,was converted
a talk of one to Osuna. Theposadas are by Soult into a citadel and magazine,
bad ; attend to the provend. Well-girt for, as in olden times, Osuna is an im
riders may do the journey in 4 days. portant military position, from its fine
These districts, although the soil is spring, water being wanting in the
fertile and the suns genial, have been plains (Hirt. ‘B. H.’4l). The Marshal’s
abandoned by the Spaniard since the soldiers amused themselves with mu
Moorish conquest. Corn-plains have tilating the terra cotta sacred subjects
become de/iesas, overgrown with pal over the cinque-cento portal, and with
mitos, and the lair of the wolf and firing at the grand Crucifixion by
robber; those travelling with ladies Ribera, which was afterwards restored
should scarcely venture on this route by Joaquin Cortes. There also are
Without an escort. other 4 gloomy pictures by Ribera in
At Gandal is :1 Moorish castle, amid the Rctablo, which were brought from
palms and orange-groves, after which Naples by the celebrated Viceroy Duke.
a wide level leads to Arahal, where the The marbles of the pavement are
posada del Sol is tolerable; Moron rises on fine; Soult carried olf more than 5
its conical hill to the rt. Osuna, a large cwt. of ancient church plate; a gilt Cor
town of 15,000 souls, hot in summer, dovan cup has alone escaped. Visit
but healthy, domineers over its fer the underground portions of this ch.
tile plain. Although a central point The Patio del Sepulcro is in Berruguete
it is left in a most scandalous want of taste. In the Sacristia is a Christ, by
common communications, and nearly Morales. The vaults are supported by
Ronda & Granada. ROUTE 13.—~LOJA. 255
Moorish arches. The mortal remains yond rises the Sierra Nevada, with its
of the Girons lie in a labyrinth of diadem of snow.
sepulchral passages. The presentDuke, Inns: The best, de los Angeles, is but
12th of his family, scarcely attends bad in spite of the patronage of angels!
sufiiciently to the decorous condition be content therefore, ye mortals-ditto
of the ashes of his ancestors. Jesus Nazarene and Jose‘. Loja is rapidly
Leaving Osuna, 2 short L. are Aguas improving; pop. nearly 14,000; with
dalces, whose sweet waters create an a new posada and theatre. This
oasis in these aromatic dehesas. Estepa place, being the key to Granada, was
lies to the l. about 2 L. from Roda, on once of great importance. Ferdi
the road to Ecfja; some traces of nand and Isabella besieged it in 1488,
Astapa are yet visible on the hills of and took it after 34 days, very much
Cmltorra and Camorrillo. This guer by the aid of the English archers
rillero hill-fort rivalled Numantia, and under Lord Rivers. Washington Irv
when besieged by the Romans, 547 ing, in his charming ‘ Chronicle of the
U. 0., its inhabitants destroyed them Conquest of Granada’ (which here
selves, their wives and children, on a should be read), gives a “ romantic”
funeral pile, rather than surrender account of this affair (ch. xxxix.).
(Livy, xxviii. 23). For the old coin “ Lord Rivers was the first to penetrate
age see Florez, ‘ M.’ ii. 624. the suburbs, and was severely wounded.
Roda is, as its Arabic name Rauda His majesty visited the tent of the
implies, a garden of roses 5.2,; the English earl, and consoled him for the
posada is clean: between Pedrera and loss of his teeth by the consideration
Venta de Arc/zidona are the immemorial that he might otherwise have been de
robber haunts, la Va. de (Jobalea and el prived of them by natural decay;
cortijo de Cerezal, where Jose Maria so whereas the lack of them would now
' long ruled; indeed this broken and be esteemed a beauty rather than a
intricate country is made for ladwmes defect, serving as a trophy of the
and beasts of prey; the aromatic glorious cause in which he had been
underwood and wild evergreen oaks engaged.” The earl replied that “ he
gave thanks to God and to the Holy
are scattered in a park-like manner all
the way between Osuna and Loja. Virgin for being thus honoured by a
Alameda lies amidst its olives and visit from the most potent king in
. corn-fields in the bottom of a valley; Christendom; that he accepted with
the Postlda bad ; the shooting is excel all gratitude his gracious consolation
lent. Passing on to the rt. in the plain for the loss he had sustained, though
is the salt lake of Antequera, which he held it little to lose two teeth in the
glitters like a mirror; the city and the service of God, who had given him
Lovers’ Rock lie beyond (see Rte. 21). all.” But different is the /n'storz'cal
A wild iniquitous cross road com account of an eye-witness, Peter
municates between Antequera and An Martyr, whose authentic epistles none
dujar, 19 L. through Benamcgi Cabra should fail to peruse in these localities
and Porcuna; and another equally cut (Lett. lxii. Elzevir ed.): Ab orbe venit
throat track runs from Antequera to’ Britano juvenis, animo, genere, divitiis,
.Eci_j1, 12} L. through La Roda. After et titulo pollens, Scalse comes (Lord
quitting the Va. de Arc/tidana by all Scales) cum pulcherrima familiarum
means go alittle out of the way to the patrio more arcubns et pharetris arma
rt., and pass through Archidona; after torum caterva. Is post fortia testibus
ascending the steep Puerto del Rey, we Hispanis facta, dum per scalas rnurum
reach Loja, which is, as its Arabic name
inter consortes scutatus ascenderet,
implies, the “ Guardian,”the advanced
saxo percussus ad tentoria deportatur
sentinel of the Vega of Granada; theexanimis. Chirurgorum cura exac
opening view is most picturesque. The
tissima vitam servat, sed anterioribus
castle towers from a rock in the middle
ictu saxi dentibus amissis. Reginam
of the town ; below runs the Genil, ubi primum ex tentorio licuit exire,quaz
crossed by a Moorish bridge, while be nuper advenerat, it salutatum : dolenti
256 noun: 14.-o01u>ovA T0 GRANADA. Sect. III.
oris fmditatem Reginae ad ablatos
dentes, juvehis alludens, ‘ Christo qui
totam eam fabricaverat domum, fene Rorrrn l4.—SEVILLE T0 GRANADA,
stellam se fecissc, qua facilius quod BY Coa1>ovA.
intus laterat inspici possit,’ lepide re
spondit : placuit Regibus argute dic By far the best plan is to go to Cor
tum, atque honcstis illum muneribus dova in the diligence in about 22
donatum ad natale solum in Britanniam hours, and then hire horses and ride
retniserunt.” Ferdinand gave to Loja over the mountains. The roads are
for arms, gules a castle or, and a bridge very bad, the inns no better; yet by
argcnt, with the device “ Flor cntre attending to the provend the thing is
Espinas.” to be endured. It has been done in
It was to Loja that Gonzalo de Cor 2 days, but 3 are better. The scenery
dova, el Gran Capitan, and Spain’s is alpine and full of picturesque castles
almost only real Great Captain,retired and localities, celebrated in Moro-His
from the suspicions of the ungrateful pano foray.
Ferdinand, who, like an eastern khalif Co1movA T0 GRANADA.
and a modern junta, dreaded a too vic
Santa Crucita . . . . . 4
torious servant. Yet here such was the Castro del Rio . . . . 2§ .. 61>
prestige of his influence and career,that, Baena . . . . . . 2 .. sl
like Wallestein, his mere name im Alcalala Real . . . . 6 .. 141}
rovised armies in the hour of need of Puerto Lope . . . - - 3 .. 17}
Pinos Puente . . - . . 2 __ 19}
is master. He died at Granada of a Granada - . . . . . 3 .. 22}
quartan fever, Dec. 2nd, 1515. Mr. Pres
cott has given us a correct sketch of After passing over tiresome dehesas
his life and character in his admirable and plains, producing some of the
‘ Ferdinand and Isabella‘ (see also our finest wheat in the world, ascending
paper in the ‘ Quar. Rev.’ cxxvii. 51). and descending Cuestas, crossing and
Charles V., in 1526, employed Hernan recrossing the Guadajoz, we reach
Perez del Pulgar to write a chronicle Castro del Rio, built on an eminence,
of his former chief the great Captain. and hence pass through wild districts
Seville, 1527. It is rare, but was re studded with eagles’ nest villages and
printed at Madrid in 1834, by M. de atalayas, to Baena, a ride of some ll ll.
la Rosa, with a poor life and notes.~ Baena,with a poor but dear posada,
There is also a biography by the com is one of the most considerable central
monplace Quintana. The old ‘ Coronica towns of these districts: Pop. above
del Gran Capitun,’ folio, Alcala de He 11,000. The posada is bad. The old
nares, 1584, although interesting as a town was built on the hill above,
romance, is, as Cervantes says (speak which is crowned with a castle, once
ing through the Curate), a true history: the property of the great Captain. The
the French work by Florian is worse modern one below has a fair plaza. The
than worthless in this respect. It was Santa Maria has some old inscriptions
to Loja also in our days that Narvaez and a good silver Custodiu. The site
retired when out of favour with of the Roman town is still marked, and
Christina. 'l‘he road to Granada, antiquities are constantly found and
neglected for centuries, has at last been destroyed: in 1833 a sepulchre was dis
put in order. covered, said to be that of the families
Between Loja and Lachar are two of Pompey and Gracchus.
wretched ventas: Lu del Pulgar might The climate, olives, corn, water, and
better be called de las Pulgas, from its fruits are delicious : the river Marbella
host of vermin. Passing a mountain produces a sort of tench called here
torrent, is la Va. do Cacin, and then arrigucla, which the naturalist should
opens the celebrated Vega of Granada examine and eat. The mineralogy and
like the promised land. botany deserve attention. Near Bacna
a curious yellow orchis abounds. The
. armorial bearings of the town are five
Ronda dr Granada. Rourr: l4.—CORDOVA T0 GRANADA. 257
Moors’ heads, which were cut ofi' by of. The very picturesque town, with its
five Spaniards of Baena, after a. despe bold towers,rises on a conical hill: the
rate combat. streets are steep, the Alameda is charm
From Baena the direct road runs ing. This was once the stronghold of
to Antequcra, 12 L. ; through Cobra the Alcaide lbn Zaide: being taken, in
(jfigabrum, Agabra, Punice—a fort), 3 1340, by Alonso XI. in person, it ob
L., which is a rich agricultural town. tained the epithet Real. The beacon
Pop. under 9,000. It once was the see tower La Mata, el Farol, the light to
of a bishop: the tortuous town is built guide prisoners escaping from the
under two hills. The tower of Homenage Moors, was erected by the Conde de
of the old castle remains: the Plaza, Tendilla, the first governor of the
although irregular, is striking; and Alhambra. Here, Jan. 28th, 1810, Se
the streets on the level are handsome bastiani came up with the runaways
and cleansed with running water. from Ocafia and again routed Areizaga
There is a curious old stone used for and Freire, who fled, without even
the font in San Juan. The parish ch. making a show of defence, to Murcia,
de la Ascension was a mosque, and has abandoning guns, baggage, and every
been badly altered inside after the thing. A mountian defile to the l. leads
model of the cathedral of Cordova. to Jaen.
The pasos of the Ermita Sa. Ana are The road to Granada continues
worth notice, especially the silver through splendid mountain scenery and
Saviour, large as life, and a beautiful strong defiles, where Freire, however,
Virgin del la Soledad, ascribed to Juan made no stand. Illora lies to the rt. on a
de Mena. The town is surrounded with hill. Soon the glorious Sierra Nevada is
gardens, which produce excellent fruits seen through an opening in the hills:
and vegetables, from the abundance of and, after passing the Venta del Puerto
water. The wines made in the Pago the Vega expands to the view. It was
dc Rio frio vie with those of Montilla. on the bridge of Pines, which is soon
The geologist should examine an ex crossed, that Columbus was stopped, in
tinct crater at Los Hoyoncs, and the Feb. 1492, b a messenger from Isa
curious cave de Jarcas. The reader of bella, who in ormed him that she would
Don Quixote (ii. 14) may inquire for espouse his scheme of discovery. He
the celebrated Cima, into which the had retired in disgu st at the delays and _
Caballero del Basque leapt. Lucena, disappointments which he had met
Erigena, is another of these large towns with in the court of the cold cautious
which no one visits. Pop. under 17,000. Ferdinand, until his more generous
Like Cabra, it also is placed under two queen,urged by the good prior of Palos,
hills, with the best-built streets on the at last came forward. Thus Columbus
level. The San Mateo is a fine church, was recalled, and she was rewarded
1498, with an extravagant new Sagrario, with a new world. The offer was made
1772: it abounds in fruits of a. rich in the very nick of time, and even then
well-irrigated soil under a glorious he hesitated to replunge into the heart
sun. The apricots are renowned. Here, sickening intrigues of the Spanish
April 21st, 1483, the Conde de Cabra court. Had he proceeded on his
took Boabdil, el Rey cliico de Granada, journey to our Henry VII., that saga
a prisoner. Consult Memorias dc Lucena, cious monarch, ever alive to mari
Cardenas, 4to., Ecija, 1777. Three L. time expeditions, would have listened
on is Ben/unagi, near the Xenil, a town at once to his proposals, and S. America
of bandit and robber ill-fame. Hence, would have been English, Protestant,
by dehesas and despoplados, 4 L. to An free,and rich, instead of Papist,bigoted,
tcqnera (see R. 21). beggarly, and bloodthirsty : on such
Continuing R. 12 and leaving Baena, trifles do the destinies of nations turn.
although it is only 24 m. to Alcalé la. The wooded Soto de Roma, the Duke
R6/ll, it is a 7 to 8 hours’ ride: the old of Wellington's estate, lies to the rt.:
posadc bad and dear 1 the posada S. to the l. is the hill of Elvira (see p. 325),
Anton, on the Alameda, is better spokgn one of the advanced guards of Granada.
258 ROUTES 15, 16.—JAE.\I—F.L smro ROSTRO. Sect. III.
the walk there is delightful, the botany
very rich. Jaen has been compared to
Ronra 15.—Sav1L1.n T0 Gnamma a dragon, a watchful Cerberus. It is a
, av Jana. poor place, amid plenty: pop. 17,000,
Go in the diligence to Andujar (see and principally hardworking agricul
R. 9), and thence by a bad. but car turists. These boors, termed Pastoris,
riageable road to Juen, 6 L. ; or go on are so dull that Jaen is called the Galicia
to Bailen, and then take the down of Andalusia. The fruit-gardens out
diligence to Jaen. 6 L. The Guadal side the town are charming, freshened
quivir is passed by a suspension bridge and fertilised by living waters which
near Mengibar. Both these routes are gush everywhere from the rocks. Jaen
uninteresting, and occasionally robber is, however, very wind-blown in winter.
infested; they are carried over treeless The place surrendered itself to St.
plains, cold and wind-blown in winter, Ferdinand in 1246; as Ibnu—l-ahmar,
calcined and dusty in summer. The “the Red Man,” a native of Arjona,who
road from Jaen to Bailen was com had raised himself from the lowest
menced in 1831. classes, to be its ruler, being at variance
with the Moorish king of Seville, was
unable single-handed to oppose the
Christians, and in self—defence declared
himself their vassal.
Rorrra l6.—ANDUJAR T0 GRANADA. Jaen is a bishopric conjointly with
Baeza. The cathedral is built after the
Mengibar . . . . . 2 style of its metropolitan at Granada
Jaen . . . . . . 4 6
Va. del (Jhaval . . . 4 10 and Malaga. The old mosque was
Campillo de Arenas . . 3 13 pulled down in 1492, and in 1532
Segri . . . . - . 3 I6 Pedro de Valdelvira introduced the
Mitugand-a'_ . . . 2 l8
Granada . . . . . 4 22 Grzeco-Romano style ; the plan is noble
and regular. There are 4 entrances:
Six moi-tally’wearisome L. lead to the W. facade stands between two fine
Jaen; the best inn is that of the dili towers ; the Corinthian interior is
gence, El Cafe‘ Nuevo; the other is Ill all glare, whitewash, and looks like
Santa Rostro, Calls ole Matadero, “ the a Pagan temple. The Sacristm and
Holy Face in Butcher-street.” Sagrar-z'o,are elegant: of the church
Jaen, Jayyan, was a little independ plate, notice the silver Custodia, by
ent kingdom under the Moors, con Juan Ruiz, and the statue of Sun
sisting of 268 square L. The capital Eufrasio ; but the grand relic is La
the Roman Auringis, Giennium— Santa Faz, El Santa SL6d£Zl‘iO, or, as it is
stands like a sentinel at the gorge of commonly called, El Santa Ifost/"0, the
the mountain approach to Granada. Holy Face of our Saviour, as impressed
Gien in Arabic is said to signify ferti on the handkerchief of Santa Veronica,
lity; and the town was also called which this saint is said to have lent to
Jayyenu-l-harir, “Jaen of the Silk.” the suffering Saviour on the road to
Its position is most picturesque, lying Calvary; but the very name, verum
under a castle-crowned hill; the long icon—the true portrait-—denounces the
lines of Moorish walls and towers creep pious ex post facto fraud. Hence some
up the irregular slopes, and the artist say her name was Berenice; be this as
will do well to follow the circuit. The it may, the cambric, like a copper-plate,
jumble of mountains, and those called has given off many impressions for
Jabalcuz, La Pandera, and El del Viento, true believers, by which many souls
almost deprive the city of sun in the have been saved and the true church
wintry days. These are the local ba much enriched, so many proofs, in fact,
rotneters. Ouantlo Jabalcuz time capuz that the existence of “ eleven thousand
y La Ptmdera montera, Llovera aunque virgins,” all Veronicas, may be inferred.
Dios no quiera. Near the Jabulcuz are Mere connoisseurs when they look at
some mineral baths called de Jerez; this fetich fright must regret that no
<
Ronda 4} Granada. ROUTE 16.—JAEN. 259
pope, no Leo X., ever decreed the dalcna, which bursts from a rock as if
multiplication of the divine Saviours of struck by the wand of Moses. There
Raphael. This particular duplicate was is a sort of Museo pro1:incz'al in the ex
brought to Jaen A.D. 44, by San Eu jesuitas,with some hundred bad pictures.
frasio, a disciple of Santiagos: other It was at Jaen that Ferdinand IV.
authors contend that it was San Aten died suddenly, in his 25th year, on Sept.
drio, the bishop of Jaen, who rode 7, 1312, exactly 30 days after he was
the devil pick-o’-back to Rome to summoned to appear before the tribunal
torture the pope that carried back the of God by the two brothers Pedro and
“ Holy Face.” See Feijoo, Cart. Erud. Juan Carvajal, of Martos, when on their
i. 24; iii. 21 ; and Southey’s irreverent way to execution by the king's orders
ballad. It was borne by St. Ferdinand and without sufiicient evidence of their
at the head of his armies all over Jaen, guilt. Hence Ferdinand, who died
and is copied in small silver medallions, on the appointed day, is called El
niellos, in black and white, which are Emplazado, “ the cited.” ~ Mariana
worn by the peasants and robbers as (xv. ii.) compares his death to those
amulets. Jaen, indeed, is a modern of Philippe le Bel, and Clement V. the
Tripoli, and its relic is the Pro ‘nu mu French pope, who were cited by the
Wenlwfdv of the ancients. It is shown to templar, De Molay, to appear before
great personages privately, and to the God within a year and a day to account
public on Good Friday and the Ascen for their perfidy, rapine, and butchery;
sion of the Virgin; the lower classes they both died at the exact period of
rely upon it in all ealamities,yetit could their summons.
not save them from the French, by For history, legends, and antiquities,
whom under Cassagne the town,i1iJuly consult ‘Relacion ole Jaen,’ Gasp. Sal
1808, was so sacked and the women and cedo Aguirre, 8vo., Jaen, 1614; ‘ His
babes so butchered, that the man and his toria Ecclesiastica,’ Francisco de Rus
men must have reasoned like Dante’s de la Puerta, 4to., Jaen, 1634; ‘ Santos
Devil in the ‘ Inferno’ (xxi. 48) : y Santuarios,’ Francisco de Vilches, fol.
“ Qui non ha luogo il Santo Rostro ;” Madrid, 1653; ‘ Historic de ./arm,’ Bar
possibly the Gaul questioned its tolome Ximenez, Paton, l628—the real
genuineness, for certainly Lucca boasts author was one Petrus Ordofiez de Ze
a duplicate, called “ Il Volto Santo.” vallos; ‘ Anales Ecclesiasticos,’ Martin de
Those curious as to their authenticity Ximena Jurado, Madrid, 1654—a very
may consult ‘ Discur-sos de lus Efigies y curious book; ‘Retrato do Jam,’ Josef
verdaderos retratos non mcmufactos del Martinez de Maz-as, 4to., Jaen, 1794.
Santo Rostro,’ Juan de Acuna del The highly picturesque road to Gra
Adarve, Villanueva, fol. 1637 ; also nada was opened in 1828. The first
read the Tradicion, by Bartolomé portion runs through a well-watered
lsquierdo. Now-a-days 111 the mania valley full of figs, apricots, and pome
of civilisation, ancient Jaen itself _ is granates. The gorge then becomes
shaken, and every day the past disap wilder and narrower, and is carried
pears to make place for the modern through the Puerto de Arenas, the sandy
and common-place. If the portal of gate of Granada; formerly carriages
San Miguel by Valdelvira still exist went by the ramblas, river beds, an arch
visit it, and also the plateresque Altar Spanish practice, but rather an incon
Mayor at La Merced ; the fine palace venient one, so a road was engineered at
of the Villar Don Pardos ; the portal of last by one Esteban, and the work is
that of Suarez de la Fuente el Sauce, excellent. Many new posadus have been
and the house dc los Masones. Mean set up on this road at the places where
time bull-fighting flourishes and a new the diligence changes horses. Those
Plaza de Zbros was built in 1847 who are riding may put up either at
for 8000 persons. miserable Campillo, or go on 1% L. to
Visit at all events the Alameda with Campotejar; and if they wish to quit
its alpine view, and walk through the the dusty road, ma turn ofi‘ to the rt.
tortuous old town to the Fuente do Mag at a cortijo, -1 of a .from Campillv f0
260 ROUTES 17, 18, 19.—SEVILLl-3 TO nosna. Sect. III.
Benalua 1 L., thence to Colmara 4 L., military accounts.
It details hard
and so on 2 L. to Granada, a lonely ships endured by his countrymen in
but beautiful ride. these hungry hills, where for one cook,
there were a thousand sharpshooters.
Rocco. afterwards married Madame de
Staél.

Ronrr: 17.-Sr:vn.1.E T0 RONDA,


BY Onvnna,
Gandul . . . . - 3
R0u'r1=: l8.—Snvn.1.r: TO Rorma,
Arahal . . . . - 4 7 BY ZAHARA.
Moron . . . - - - 2 -- 9
Zaframngon . . . . 2 . 11 Utrera . . . . . . 5
Olvera . - . . - . 2 13 Coronil . - . . . - 3 . 8
sélfllil . . - . . . 2 l5 Puerto Serrano . . . 4 . 12
Ronda . - . . . . 2 17 Zahara . . . . . . 2 14
Ronda . . . . - . 4 18
For Gandrzl and Arahal see p. 254. Set out from Seville in the after
It is best to push on the first night to noon and sleep at Utrera (see p. 159),
Moron, Arnmi, pop. 9000, built on irre and then perform the rest in two days.
gular acelivities, with the remains of You can, however, avoid Utrera, and
its once almost impregnable Castle to bait your horses at the Venta dc Utrera,
the E. erected by the Moors on Roman which is nearly halfway, and inspectthe
foundations; it was blown up by the capital olive hacienda of the Conde de
retreating French. The chalk, Cal de Torrenuevo. The dehesas 3/ despobludos,
Moron, makes the fatal whitewash, by delightful to the wild bee and botan
which so much mediaeval and Moorish ist, extend to castle-crowned Comm’! ,
decoration has been obliterated. Not Posada Nueva; the other Inn is de los
that, as old Feltham said of the Dutch, Dolores, of which thin-skinned tra
Spaniards are more careful of their vellers’ recollections are dolorous.
house-fronts than of their bodies, or The Puerto is the mountain-portal
of their bodies than of their souls. through which robbers descend to in
The tortas de Moron have a Peninsular fest the high road to Cadiz. The 6 L.
celebrity. to Ronda are very long, and equal to 7.
In the Sierra dc Laita are remains After tracking and crossing the Gua
of old silver-mines, and load-stones dalete We reach a new ventu, built
and emeralds are found here. Moron under Zahara, which is a true Moorish
is a notorious den of thieves. Even eagle’s nest crowning its pyramidical
the women, according to Rocca, op-. hill, and so fortified by nature with
posed the French, while the masculine rocks for walls, and river for moat, as
gender of Andalucia yielded ; these are to be almost impregnable before the
the worthy mothers of the noble moun invention of artillery. The cap
taineers into whose fastnesses we now ture by Muley Aben Hassen in 1481
enter. Olvcra rivals Moron in noto was the first blow struck in the war,
riety of misrule: pop. 6000. It is the which ended in 1492, by the conquest
refuge of the man of blood; hence the of Granada, just as that of Saguntum
proverb, “ Mata al hombre y 1.-ete a’ by Hannibal led to the downfall of
Olvera,” kill your man and fly to Carthage. Hence by the Guesta de la
Olvera. The inhabitants on one occa Tina by picturesque defiles to Ronda.
sion, being compelled to furnish ra
tions to a French detachment, foisted
on them asses’ flesh for veal; this in
sult, says M. Rocca, was thrown ROUTE l9.—sEVILLE T0 RONDA,
always into their teeth: “ Vous avez
BY Ecru.
mangé de l’ane it Olvera.” His ‘ Guerre
en Espaync ’ is a. charming, well-written Those who have not seen Cordova.
book, and one of the best French will, of course, go there in the dili
Ronda cl" Granada. ROUTE 19.-—RONDA—THE TAJO. 261
gence, and return by it back again to dairo, girdles Ronda, as the Marchan
Ecija, and thence take horses for the does Alhama, the Tagus Toledo, and
Sierra. the Huescar and Jucar encircle Cuenca.
Osnna . . . . 4% Those in search of the picturesque
Saucejo . . . . . 2% . . 7 should begin at the old bridge of San
Va. de Grenad . . 2} . . 9% Miguel, and descend to the mill below.
Setcnil de las Bodegas . 111- .. 101
Ronda . - . . - 3 . 13*} The modern bridge, which at the other
extremity of Ronda spans a gulf nearly
Sleep at Osuna (see p. 254). The ride 300 feet wide, and connects the new
is desolate; at Saucejo it crests the and old town, and was built in 1761, by
hills, and soon becomes very pictu José Martin Aldeguela, who was dashed
resque ; thence to Ronda in about 6 h, to pieces by a fall: standing on it,
a lonely and sometimes dangerous “ ’t is dizzy to east one’s eyes below.”
journey. The Moorish mills in the valley must
Ronda has tolerable posadas, de las be descended to, passing out of Ronda
Animus and de San Carlos, 1n the old town. by the old castle. The view from
The Pasteller-la ole Gaatro Naciones can be them, looking up to the cloud-sus
the most recommended; the landlord pended bridge, 1s unrivalled. The
civil : in the new town there is a very arch which joins the Tajo hangs some
tidy little posada, de San Crist0bal— the 600 ft. above, like that in the Koran,
Christopher--to which Etonians may between heaven and the bottomless
go, in the Calle del Alberto, and near pit; the river, which, black as Styx,
the Alameda, Posada del Tajo. Those has long struggled heard but not seen,
who prefer a private and quiet house in the cold shadows of its rocky prison,
will find many on ElMercadillo, near the now escapes, dashing joyously into
Plaza de Toros. The charges at the fair light and liberty; the waters boil in
time—the season— are generally higher the bright burning sun, and glitter
than at others. Roman Ronda, Arunda, like the golden shower of Danae. The
lay 2'L. north, at Acinipo, now called giant element leaps with delirious
Ronda la Vleja. The Moors, who chose bound from rock to rock, until at last,
new sites for most of their cities, used broken, buffeted, and weary, it sub
up the ancient one as a quarry for their sides into a gentle stream, which steals
Rondzih, as the Spaniards have done like happiness away, adown a ver
since. The Ronda corporations have durous valley of flower and fruit, and
been such busy Vandals, that these offers no inapt emblem of the old Spa
ruins, considerable in 174-7, now niard’s life, who ended, in the quietism
scarcely exist, and do not deserve a of the cloister, a manhood spent in
visit. The coinage is described by war, hardship, and excitement. There
Florez (M. i. 153). is but one Ronda in the world, and this
Ronda, say the Spaniards, is the Tajo, cleft as it were by the scimitar of
Tivoli of Andalucia, but Trajan, al Roldan, forms, when the cascade is
though an Andaluz, built no villa here, full, as we have seen it and as it ought
and its Maecenas was the Moor, from to be seen, its heart and soul. The
whom it was taken by surprise by Fer scene, its noise and movement, baflie
dinand in 1485. The town hangs on a pen and pencil, and, like Wilson at
river-girt rock, and is only accessible the Falls of Terni, we can only ex
by land up a narrow ascent guarded claim, “Well done, rock and water,
by a Moorish castle. It contains by Heavens!”
13,000 Inhab., chiefly composed of In the town, visit the Dominican
bold, brave, fresh-complexioned moun convent ; the Moorish tower stands on
taineers, smugglers, and bull-fighters, the verge of the chasm. There is
and Majos may crmios. The Tajo, or another Moorish tower in the Calle
_ chasm, which divides the old and del Puente viejo; visit, in the Calle
new town, is the emphatic feature. San Pedro, la Oasa del Rey Moro, built
The Gaadalvin, Arabice the “ deep in 1042, by Al-Motadhed, who drank
stream,” called lower down El Gua his wine out of jewel-studded goblets
262 ROUTE 19.-Ro>:1>A. Sect. III.
formed from the sculls of those whom by Charles V. The Alcazar, or castle,
he had himself decapitated (Conde, is the property of the Giron, and the
ii. 26). Here is la mina de Ronda, a Duque de Alzumada is hereditary go
staircase cut down to the river in the vemor. The invaders blew it up on
solid rock. Descend to the singular retiring, from sheer love of destruc
Nereid’s grotto below, which was dn tion, for it is entirely commanded, and
by Christian slaves, in 1342, for A11 since the use of artillery valueless as a
Abou Melec. The bitter task of de military defence.
scending and raising water passed into The fine stone-built Plaza ole Toros,
a proverb, Dios me guards del zaque de or bull arena, is in the new town, near
Ronda; the steps were protected with the rose-garnished Alameda, which
iron; these the Spaniards sold, and hangs over the beetling clifi' : the view
they were then replaced with wood, from this eminence over the depth be
which General Rojas, the governor, low, and mountain panorama, is one
who lived in the house, used up, in of the finest in the world. After the
1833, for his kitchen firing. bull-fights, vultures—which the natives
Ronda is an intricate old Moorish swear are eagles—bover around, at
town of tortuous lanes and ups and tracted by the dead animals, adding to
downs. The houses are small; the the Salvator Rosa sentiment. The
doors are made of the fine Nogal, or Plaza itself, and all the cells for the
walnut, which abounds in the fruit bulls, and the contrivances for letting
bearing valleys. " The fruit, especially them in and out, are well worth
the Peros, Samboas, Ciruelas, and Me examination by tauromachians. The
locotones are excellent; indeed the fairs and Fiestas are of the first order.
apples and pears of Ronda are pro May 20th is, or rather was, the time
verbial. The damsels, unlike those to see Ronda, its bulls and Majos, in
of tawny Andalucia, are as fresh their glory. This is the great leather,
and ruddy as the pippins. Ronda is saddlery, embroidered gaiters, garters,
the cool summer residence for the mantas, and horse fair, to which many
wealthy of Seville, Ecija, and Malaga. detachments of English oflicers ride
Being highly salubrious, the longevity from the Rock, and some in one day ;
is proverbial; thus Vicente de Espinel, but commonplace civilization is ruin
born here in 1551, died at the age of ing the national and the picturesque.
ninety; he was one of the best mu The Maestranza, or equestrian corpora
sicians, poets, and novelists of Spain, tion of Ronda, takes precedence over
and translated Horace’s ‘Art of Poetry.’ all others.
Espinel had served in the campaigns The Ronda horses are small, but
of Italy, and in his picaresque tale of active ; José Zafran is the Anderson of
Marcos de Obrcgon-translated by the Serrania. Excursions may be made
Major Langton-—gives his own adven
to Ronda la Vieja, to the picturesque
tures; it is from this work that Le cavern La Cueva del Gate, which lies,
Sage borrowed freely for his Gil Blas. with its untrodden stalactical caverns,
True believers, who wish to shorten about 2 L. N.W.,from whence a rivulet,
the pangs of purgatory, can do much a gushing Vaucluse, emerges and flows
in a month at Ronda. In the church, into the Guadairo. N.B. After seeing
the Socorro, they may be succoured at this Cueva ride round by Benajuan and
the rate of a million days’ indulgence, Montejaquo to the gorge of Zumidero,
by one touch, such is the benefit of the equal to any thing in the Alps, thence
cuentu del Millon, while in this life the to Ronda, an excursion which will
longevity of Ronda is expressed in a take 6 h. For antiquities consult
proverb, En Ronda los hombres xi ochenta ‘ Dialogos par la Historia dc Ronda,’ 1766,
son pollom-s. These hardy octogenarian Juan Ribera; also Carter’s excellent
chickens, according to M. Rocca, used ‘Journey,’ 1777.
to hide in the rocks, and amuse them
selves with popping at the French
sentries. The land-gate was repaired
Ronda <§' Granada. ROUTE 20.—R0.\IoA TO xnnsz. 263
Room 20.-Rouné T0 Xnam. unconsecrated grave of some traveller
like hirnself,who has been waylaid there
Grazalema . . . . . 3 alone, murdered, and sent to his account
El Bosque . . . . . B
.. 6
Arcos . . . . . . 5 . . ll with all his imperfections on his head!
Xerez . . . - . . 5 16 These Spanish milestones, memento
mori, are awkward evidences that the
This, one of the wildest rides in the repetition is not altogether impossible,
Sen-ania, is eminently lonely but pie and make a single gentleman, whose
turesque ; a horse with baggage can life is not insured, keep his powder
get to El Basque in 4 h., and thence to dry, and look every now and then if
Areas in 6, and in as many more to his percussion cap fits.
Xerez. Passing the almond and walnut Grazalerna, Lacidulia, Posada—La
groves of the valley of the Guadairo, Trinidad, is plastered like a martlet
we enter a dehesa of cistus and quercus nest on the rocky hill, and can only
_ Quexigo. About half way is a rocky be approached by a narrow ledge.
gorge, a notorious robber-lair. Here we The inhabitants, smugglers and rob
once counted 15 monumental crosses bers, beat back a whole division of
in the space of 50 yards, stretching out French, who compared it to a land
their black arms in Spanish welcome; Gibraltar. The wild women, as they
they are raised on the “ heap of stones” wash their parti-coloured garments in
(Josh. vii. 26) ; the “ shreds, flints, and the bubbling stream, eye the traveller
pebbles thrown for charitable pur as if a perquisite of their worthy mates.
poses ” on the murdered traveller’s The road now olambers over the
grave. These are the 114»: Awyair; of heights under the mountain nucleus
Pausanias (x. 5, 4); the heaps over the San Cristobal, the Atlas of Roman Ca
dead, -'ra:¢M tumuli, which 1n Turkey tholics. It is also called la Cabeza del
are thought to conceal treasure. Mal Moro, and is the first land seen by ships
Tepee (woos). It was an Oriental and coming from the Atlantic. The sum
Roman custom to cast if only one mit is generally snow-clad. Seen from
stone. Quamquam festims non est mora that height the plains of the Guadal
longa. A simple wooden cross bears the quivir are laid out like a map; we
name of the victim, and the date of his slept ata tidy posada in El Basque.
foul unnatural murder, cut oil‘ in the Continuing the ride through a pleasant
blossom of his sins, no reckoning made. country, we reach Benamahomad, a
Pray God for his soul l These crosses, hamlet all girt with streams and gar
here the signs of execution not redemp dens. Hence, over an undulating pine
tion, do not affect or alarm the Spa clad despoblado to Arcos de la Frontera,
niard, who is used to appalling symbols which rises over the Guadalete in two
in churches and out; he is inditferent points, one crowned by a t0wer,'the
from habit to associations of blood andother by a convent. Crossing the
wounds, at which the solitary stranger wooden bridge, a steep ascent, over
is disagreeably startled; a shadow of looking a yawning precipice, leads up
death seems to hover over localities to this steep wild place of truly Anda
where such stones preach Spanish ser lucian majos, who continue to wear the
mons, te sara loguntur ; a dreary feel national costume in all its glory. The
ing will steal over the most cheerful, portal of the Parroquia is in excellent
boldest mind, it is not good to be alone. Gothic of the Catholic kings. The
The wanderer, far from home and banners taken at Zahara in 1483 were
friends, Peels doubly a stranger in this kept in the San Pedro. There is a
strange land, where no smile greets his decent posada on the r. hand, going out
coming, no tear is shed at his going, of the town to Xerez. Pop. about
where his memory passes away, like 1l,00_0. The views from above are
that of a guest who tarrieth but a day,» superb, ranging over the Ronda moun
where nothing of human life is seen, tains. The plains below, being irri
where its existence only is inferred by gated from the river, produce abun
these stone-piled cairns which mark the dant crops and fruits.
264 ROUTE 21.—Ro1~n)A TO GRANADA. Sect. III.
Arcos, Arci Colonia, Arco Briga, Thebes in Boaotia was founded by the
was an Iberian town, Briga being Phoenician Caiimus; and the word
equivalent to “ city,”—burgh, borough, Teba, in Boaotian dialect, signified a
bury, q'un';/0;. It was taken by Alonso hill (M. Varro, ‘ R. R.’ iii. 1), which
el S/zbio from the Moors, and was called coincides with this locality. Mean
de la frontera from its frontier position ; time the Bryants and Fabers, and
almost impregnable by nature, it was dabblers in Noetic and Archite arch
embattled with walls and towers, por aeology, contend that Teba, in Syriac
tions of which remain. The Arcos (Tzeses, Scho. Lyc. 1206) a heifer,
barbs, and their watchful daring and in Hebrew an ark, alluded to
riders, are renowned in ancient ballads. the female symbol of the regenera
They were reared in the plains below, tion of nature in contradistinction to
and especially in the once famous the male principle Gor (Hebrew),
Haras of the Carthusians of Xerez. Zupu, a bull and a cofiin. Theha (not
The intervening country is without this one), say they, was the eminence
interest. on which the Noetic ark restéd, but
perhaps they may be wrong.
Andalucian Teba was recovered from
the Moors by Alonso XI. in 1328.
Bruce, according to Froissart, when
Rourn 2l.—RoNr>A T0 GRANADA. on his deathbed, called the good Lord
Cuevas del Becerro . 3
James of Douglas, and told him that
Cnmpillos . . . - . 3 6 he had always wished to fight against
Bobadilla . . . . . 3 9 the enemies of Christ, and that, as he
Antequera . . . 2 . . 11 had been unable to do so while alive,
Archidona . . . - 2 . . 13
Loja . . . . . . 3 . . l6 he now selected him, the bravest of his
Granada . . . 8 . 24 knights, to carry his heart, after his
death, to the Holy Land. As there
This may be ridden easily in 3 days were no ships going directly to Jeru
by a well-girt horseman. From Ronda salem, Lord James proceeded to Spain,
to Oampillos 9 hours; Campillos to Loja and, thinking fighting the Moors in
12 hours, allowing one for baiting; the intermediate time would be the
Loja to Granada 9 hours, allowing most agreeable to the wishes of the
half an hour for halting ;- Antequera deceased, proceeded to the siege of
lies out of the direct road, but is well Teba. He wore the royal heart in a
worth visiting; those in a hurry might silver case around his neck. In the
sleep the first night at Oampillos, or at critical moment of the battle, he and
the solitary venta under Teba. his followers were abandoned by their
The only mid-day halt is the venta Spanish allies; then the good Lord
at the Cuevas del Becerro, “ Caves of the threw the heart of the Bruce into the
Calf,” a den fittish for beasts, but the fiercest fray, exclaiming, “Pass first
place may beleft out altogether, in which in fight, as thou wast wont to go, and
case the half way will be at the Venta Douglas will follow thee or die," which
del Puerto. Nature, indeed, enthroned he did. For historic references see
in her alpine heights and green car our paper, ‘Quart. Rev.’ cxxvi. 310.
peted valleys, has lavished beauty and In our times the fair Condesa de Teba,
fertility around; man alone and his a fair scion of the illustrious house of
dwellings are poverty-stricken. About Guzman, won the imperial heart of
halfway on to Oampillos, Teba, The Napoleon III.
ba, rises on the r.,but is not worth as There are some decent posadas at
cending up to. The name, which has Campillos, on the Alamea'a—La Corona,
gzuzzled antiquarians, occurs in the Jesus Nazarene, and Santa Maria del
gyptian Thebais, and Tape‘ in Coptic Carmen. The Salina, or Salt Lake,
means “head, capital.” The son of distant 2 L., forms a. striking object
Abraham by the concubine Rennah from Campillos.
(Gen. xxii. 24) was called Teba. Antequera, Anticaria was in the time
Ronda 5' Granada. nourn 21.--ANTEQUERA. 265
of the Romans, as now, an important French into a store-house, but the mag
city of the second order; lying, how nificent Moorish armoury disappeared
ever, out of the high road, it is seldom when the city was sacked by them;
visited. Pop. 16,000. The best inns the enemy, at the evacuation of Ante
are Posada de la Caslmia, La Corona, and quera, wished to destroy the ,castle,
one in the Calle de las Comeclias. The but Cupid interfered ; the artilleryman
ancient town was situated at Aniequcra left to fire the train lingered so long
la Viqa. The remains of a palace and taking his last farewell of his nut
a theatre, almost perfect in 1544, were brown querida, that he was himself
used as a quarry to build the convent of taken prisoner, and so the walls es
San Juan de Dias ; a few fragments were caped. When we were last at Antequera.
saved by Juan Porcel de Peralta in the governor was in the act of taking
1585, and are imbedded in the walls down the Moorish mosque, to sell the
near the Arco de G igantes, going to the materials and pocket the cash. The
castle court. Others were then brought tower of San Sebastian, the clock, and
from Nescaniu, 7 miles W., where a the copper angel the vane, are thought
hamlet was erected in 1547 for the magnificent by the natives.
invalids who came to drink the waters Antvqzlera, probably because it suits
of the old Fons divinus, now called the the rhyme, is the place selected by the
Fuente dc Piedm, because good for proverb which indicates the tendency
stone and gravel complaints. in Spaniards of each person taking
Antequera (Antikeyrah) was reco first care of himself: “ Sulga el sol pm
vered from the Moors in 1410 by the Antequeru, venga lo que 1:iniere, cl ul
Regent Fernando, who hence is called timo mono se ahoga. I ‘ll be ofl', for the
“El Infante dc Antequera.” He gave last monkey is drowned.” Occupet
the city forarms the badge of his mi extremum scabies. This is, however,
litary order, La Terraza, the “vase” onl the sauve qui peut principle of the
(quasi de ter-rci) the pot of lilies of the selfish of all times and places, whose
Virgin, under which the mystery of cry is, the devil take the hindmost.
the divine incarnation was shrouded A ntequera was the home of the great
(see our Remarks, ‘ Quart. Rev.’ cxxiii. Alcaide Narvaez, cl de la gran lanzada.
130). This order, the earliest in Spain, -—See the curious Historia, &c., by
was founded in 1035 by Garcia of Na Francisco Balbi de Corregio, 4°, Milan,
varre.—See the curious details, p. 177, L593. This Don was no less redoubt
Discursos Varies, D. J. Dormer, 4°. able a personage in his time than Don
Zarag, 1683. Antequcra contains some Ramon, the Duque de Valencia, was in
20,000 Inhab., chiefly agricultural; ours. Consult for local history Pane
they wear the majo dress, and are gericos, &c. Pedro dc Espinosa, 8vo.,
fond of green velvets and gilt filigree. Xerez, 1628; Ilistoria de Antequcra,
In the fertile plain is a peculiar salt Francisco Espinosa y Aquilena, 8vo.,
laguna, or lake. The town is clean reprinted Malaga, 1842.
and well built. The Colegiata, gutted From Antequera there is a bad but
by the invaders, has been partially carriageable road to Malaga, 9 L.,
refitted; but poverty of design unites which is to be continued on to Cordova.
with poverty of material. The castle Ascending the height is a lusus nutu/‘£1’,
is Moorish, built on Roman founda called cl Torcal, an assemblage of
tions. Observe the Barbican. Ascend stones which look like a deserted
the Torre Mocha, with its incongruous town. The 8 L. are hilly, dreary,
modern belfry. Observe the Roman and townless. Leaving the pass Buca
frieze and cornice at the entrance. del Asno are the wretched ventas, de
The view is striking. In front, the Galvez, 4 L., dc Linares, 2 L., and dc
Lover’s Rock rises out of the plain, Jllatagatos, 1 L., a true kill-cat den,
and to the r. the three conical hills of where none but an ass will open his
Archidona. The castle is much di mouth for food. The views on dc
lapidated. The curious old mosque in scending to Malaga are delicious.
the enclosure was converted by the The ride to (iranada is pleasant.
S'pain.—I. N
266 norm: 22.-—RO.\1'DA TO MALAGA. Sect. III.
Just outside the town, on the road to ladies had better brave the fatigue
Archidona, is la Cucva de Merrgol, which than the Posadas, and ride it at once,
looks E., and is some 70 ft. deep, it leaving Casarabonela and Oar-tnma about
was only examined for the first time in =} a L. to the rt.; you can ride -from
1842, by Rafael Mitjana, an architect Ronda to a wood -Q a league beyond
of Malaga. ' He got the interior el Borgo, in 5 h.; thence to a venta
cleared out, by assuring the Antique l L. beyond Cusarabzmela, 2-.§ h.; dine
ran authorities, but not antiquarians, there; thence to Malaga in about 6 h.,
that treasures were buried there. It by a plain that seems never coming to
was long known by the shepherds and an end.
neglected; some consider it Celtic, By the other route, after leaving
others Druidieal. See the Memoria, Ronda and ascending the Puerto de
published by Mitjana. Svo. Malaga, los Espinillos, and passing the arches
1847. Observe the hawkheaded form of the aqueduct, cross the stream del
of the Peron, and the profile of a fe Taro, and thence to the Pzwrtos del
male cut as it were from the hill above Viento, and on to that do los Empedra
Archidona: on leaving this Cueva we dos. Wind-blown and stony indeed are
reach the banks of the Yeguas, and the these mountain defiles, nor is the
Pefm or Pefton ole los Enamorados, which locality near the latter, which is called
rises likeaGibmltar out of the seaofthe Dientes de la Vieja, ill named; a broken
plain. Sappho leaps of true love, which wild tract leads to miserable El Burgo,
never did run smooth, are of all times with its bridge and hamlet. Thence over
and countries. Here, it is said, a a dehesu by the passes of El Hozmillo and
Moorish maiden, eloping with a Chris Media Fmega, to the stream and
tian knight, baflled their pursuers by wretched venta of Casarabonela. After
precipitating themselves, locked in descending, the Cuesta de Cascoral is the
each other’s arms, into a stony couch. usual halting-place; and bad it is, but
(See the story at length in Mariana, perhaps less bad than the venta of
xix. 22, and in Southey’s ballad on Oartama, which may be left to the r.
Laila and Manuel.) The verdurous about 5 a L. There is also a farm or
valley is still the mid-day halt of the Cortajo de Villalon farther on, where
sun-burnt traveller, who tastes the joy travellers may rest at night. Cartama,
of living fountains of water under the Cartima, is built on a hill, and the
Y shadow of a great rock in a weary prefix “ car,” “ kart/ta,” shows its punic
and.” origin. It was once a fine city (see
“ Flumirra muacun ubi at viridisnimn grarnina ri Livy, xl. 47); although some think
Spelunclz que tegunt at axes procubat runbrn.' that he refers to another Cartima, near
Leaving the rock to the 1., and passing Ucles; remains, however, are con
a pretty olive-grove, the road turns to stantly discovered, and, as usual, either
Archidona, X¢pnn3/uv, and thence winds neglected by the authorities or broken
to Loja. (See p. 255.) up by the peasantry. On one occasion
the late Mr. Mark,consul at Ma1aga,ob
serving some marble figures worked as
Rorrrr: 22,-RONDA TO Manson. old stones into a prison wall, offered to
Al Borgo . . . - . 3 replace them with other masonry, in
Casaraboneln . . . . 2 . . 5 order to save the antiques. The autho
Cartama . . . . . 3 .. 8 rities, suspecting that they contained
Malaga....-.3..l1
gold, refused, but took them out them
Those who ride this wild mountain selves, and were with difliculty pre
route must indeed rough it. Attend vented sawing them in pieces, and at
carefully to the provend, for, however last, not knowing what to do with them,
satisfactory the banquet of alpine cast them aside like rubbish outside the
scenery, there is more food for the town. Spaniards being generally igno
painter and poet’s eye, in fine frenzy rant of the real value of these matters,
rolling, than for his body. The ride whenever a foreigner wishes to have
takes 13 good h. with stout horses; them pass at once into hypcrbolical
Ronda 5‘ Granada. noun: 23.—GAUCIN. 26’?
notions, and estimate at more than their age. Ascend the Moorish castle, much
weight in gold, relics which they before shattered by an explosion, April 23,
considered more worthless than old 1843. The view is glorious. Gibral
stones. Leaving Cartamu and the Sierra, tar rises like a molar tooth in the dis
we enter the rich plain of jllalaga, tance and Africa looms beyond. In
studded with ruins, villages, and ha the hermitage of the castle was a small
ciendas. image of the Infant Saviour, El m'1?0
Dios, which, being dressed in a 1'e
splendent French court suit, was na
Rourl-J 23.—-~RONDA TO GIBRALTAR. turally held by Spaniards in profound
Atajate. . . . . . 2 veneration far and wide. Some of the
Gaucin . . . . . . 3 . . 5 miracles he works seem positively in
San Roque . . . . . 6 . . 11
Gibraltar . . . - . 2 . 13 credible. This image is now wor
shiped in the parish church.
This superb mountain ride threads Leaving Gaucin is a tremendous
hill and dale, along the edge of pre descent by a sort of earthquake dislo
cipices. By starting from Ronda at cated staircase, which scales the wall
7 A.M. you may reach Gaucin about barrier to this frontier of Granada.
3.} P.M.; next day, by leaving Gaucin The road seems made by the evil one
at 6. P.M., you get to Gibraltar be in a hanging garden of Eden. An
tween 4 and 5 P.M.; you can ride orange-grove on the banks of the Gua
easily from Ronda to Sun Roque in dairo welcomes the traveller, and tells
l5 hours, halting 2 at Ga:/cin. There him that the Sierra is passed. To those
is also a lower and smoother road by coming from Gibraltar this mountain
which Gaucin may be avoided alto wall is the appropriate barrier to
gether (see next column). At the Granada, while Gaucin crests the
bottom of an alpine defile is la F1/ante heights like a watchful sentinel. This
de Pied:-a, placed in a funnel from oleander-fringed river is crossed and
which there is no escape should a re-crossed, and is very dangerous in
robber ambuscade be laid. Thence, rainy weather. On its banks is the
Scrambling up the mountains, we pass lonely Venta del Guadairo, Where
Moorish villages, built on heights, whatever provend you have brought
with Moorish names and half-Moorish with you can be washed down with
peasantry, e. g. Atajate, Benarraba, wine of Estepona, whose flavour is
Benadalid, Ben Alauria. These settle pleasant, and colour amber and yellow.
ments of Benz’, “children,” mark the By cutting ofl' now to the l., and keep
isolating love of tribe which the Arabs ing along the sands to Gibraltar, you
brought with them from the East, im can avoid San Rogue, and thus, if late,
planting on a new and congenial soil save 2 L. Those who go to San Roque,
the weakness of the nomade race of after passing the ferry of the Xenur,
Ishmael, whose hand is against every [sweet glades of chesnut and cork trees,
one, and against whom every hand is will duly and pleasantly arrive. Ob
raised. These unamalgamating “ Beni” serve the shepherds armed, like David,
united, however, against the French, with their sling, wherewith they man
who found in such robbers more than age their flocks. This, introduced
their match. The hard-working high by Phaenicians, became the formidable
land peasants cultivate every patch of weapon of Oriental and Iberian (Ju
the mountain sides, terracing them dith vi. 12; Plin, ‘ N. H.’ vii. 56;
into hanging gardens, and bringing Strabo, iii. 255). It was much used
up earth from below in baskets. in the Balearic Islands, hence so
Gaucin is most romantically situated called, owro I100 fia>.Am. These are the
on a cleft ridge. The Posada de la Paz slings with which the shepherds
is tolerable, but not cheap; the Posada knocked out Don Quixote's teeth.
Inglesa or del Ifosario is newer. Here Compare the Hondas of Old Castile.
(Sept. 19, 1309) Guzman el Bueno This mountain route from G(z'u(:z'1l
was killed, in the 53rd year of his is rather severe: an easier one, but a
N 2
Rn
268 ROUTE 23.—-RONDA TO GIBRALTAR Sect. 11?.
long single day's ride, lies by the self the king of Gibraltar; of which
valley of the Guadairo, avoiding the the alcaldes of San Roque, in their
hills. Leave Ronda by the Merca oflicial documents, designate them
dillo, descend to the river, keep along selves the authorities, and all persons
its pleasant banks to Cortes, which is born on the Rock are entitled to the
left about ll mile to the r., without rights of native Spanish subjects.
going to it; then continue up the river The town, from being made the sum
valley, to the back of Gaucin, which mer residence of many English fami
rises about 3 m. olf to the l., and is not lies, is in a state of transition: thus,
to be entered. Ascend the hill to the while the portion on the Spanish side
Xi.-nena road, and soon strike ofl‘ to the remains altogether Spanish, and the
l., through la Boca del Leon to the Cork road to the interior execrable, the
wood, and thence to Sun Roqzw. The quarter facing “ the Rock” is snug
Arrieros try to dissuade travellers from and smug, with brass knockers on the
taking this valley, and best route, in doors, and glass in the windows; and
order to get them to sleep at some the road is excellent, macadamized
friend’s house at Grlucin, and thus not by the Dons, but by General Don
employ the horses for two days instead and for English convenience. No
of one.. San Roquian ever looks towards
San Rogue. There is good accom Spain; his eyes, likea Scotchman’s,
modation at Macre’s Hotel, El Correo are fixed southward on “ La Play 1,”
I/zglos, Calle San Felipe. The town the place for cheap goods, good cigars,
was built in 1704 by the Spaniards, and his E1 Dorado, his no plus ultra.
after the loss of Gibraltar, when they At every step in advance Spain re
used up the remains of time-honoured cedes; parties of reckless subalterns
Carteia as a quarry. It is named after gallop over the sands on crop-tailed
its tutelar saint, San Roque. This mo hacks, hallooing to terriers, and crack
dern Esculapius is always, like his ing hunting-whips-animals, instru
prototype (Pans. ii. 27, 2), painted ments, and occupations utterly un
with a companion dog, who licks the known in Iberia. Then appear red
wound in his thigh: here he has a faced slouching pedestrians in short
hermitage and fixed residence; conse black gaiters, walking “into Spain,”
quently, perhaps, no place is more as they call it, where none but long and
wholesome; it is the hospital of the yellow ones are worn: then the shoals
babies and “ scorpions of Gib,” who of babies, nursery-maids, men, women,
get at San Roque “ sound as roaches ;” and everything, vividly recall Gosport
in fact, as in cases of royal touching for and Chatham. Spain completely va
evil, when a patient is given over, he is nishes and England reappears after
pronounced incurable by Rey o’ Rogue. passing the“ Lines,” as the frontier
The town is very cheap ; a family can boundaries are called. The civil and
live here for half the expense necessary military establishments of Spain,el7eI'y
at Gibraltar: pop. above 7000. It is where rather out of elbows, are no
the chief town of the Campo do Gib where more so than here, where they
raltar, and has always been made the provoke the most odious compari
head-quarters of the diflerent Spanish sons. These semi-moor natives neither
and French armies, which have not rc see nor feel the discredit and dis
taken Gibraltar. The descendants of grace of the contrast. The _miserable
the expelled fortress linger near the hovels are the fit lair of hungry
gates of their former paradise, now, bribetaking oflicials, who exist on the
alas! in the temporary occupation of crumbs of “the Rock,” one broad
heretics, since they indulge in a long side frum which would sweep every
deferred hope of return, as the Moors of thing from the face of the earth.
'l‘etuan sigh for the re-possession of These “ Lines ” were once most for
Granada. Even yet ourpossession of the midable, as Philip V. erected here, in
Rock is not quite a fltit accompli, and 1731, two superb forts, now heaps of
the king of the Spains still calls him ruins; one was called after his tutelar
Ronda <5" Granada. noun: 23.—s.-xx ROQUE-——GIBRALTAR. 269
saint, Felipe, the other after Santa Spanish sentinels, who guard their
Barbara, the patroness of Spanish artil frontier on the espunta lobes or scare
lery. The British agent at Madrid was crow principle. These ill-appointed
instructed to remonstrate against the Bzlwfios, types of Eorzwz, Egestas, stand
works, but he wrote back in reply, “ I like the advanced sentiuels of Virgil’s
was assured if the whole universe infernal regions,
should fall on the king to make him de
" Et metus et malesuada fames et turpis Egestas
sist, he would rather let himself be cut Horribiles visu "
to pieces than consent" (Cox, Bourb. iii.
240). They were so strong, that when A narrow flat stri of sand called the
the French advanced in the last war, “ neutral ground,’ separates the Rock
the modern Spaniards, unable even to from the mainland; seen from a dis
destroy them, called in the aid of our tance, it seems an island, as it un
engineers under Col. Harding, by doubtedly once was. The barren,
whom they were -effectually disman cinder-looking, sunburut mass is no
tled: this is at leasta fait accompli, unfit sample of tawny Spain, while the
and they never ought to be allowed to rope-of-sand connection is a symbol of
be rebuilt, since to raise works before the disunion, long the inherent weak
a fortress is a declaration of war; and ness of the nnamalgamating compo
as Bu0naparte’s announced intention nent items of Iberia.
was to take Gibraltar, Sir Colin Camp Cross however that strip, and all is
bell was perfectly justified in clearing changed, as by magic, into the order,
them away, even without the Spani preparation, organization, discipline,
ards’ permission, to say nothing of wealth, honour, and power of the United
their having petitioned him to do so. Kingdom—of Britannia, the Pallas
Now this destruction, a work of or armed wisdom of Europe. The N.
absolute necessity against the worst side of Gibraltar rises blufliy, and
foe of England and Spain, is made, bristles with artillery : the dotted port
with La China and San Sebastian (see holes of the batteries, excavated in the
Index), one of the standing libels rock, are called by the Spaniards “ las
against us by the Afrancesados. For dientes de la cieja, ’ the grinders of this
tunate indeed was it for many Spa stern old Cerbera. The town is si
niards that Campbell did destroy these tuated on a shelving ledge to the W.
lines, for thus Ballesteros and his As we approach the defences are mul
bigofws was saved from French pursuit tiplied: the causeway is carried overa
and annihilation by skulking under marsh called “ the inundation,” which
our guns (Disp., Dec. 12, 1811). Fer can be instantaneously laid under
dinand Vll. was no sooner replaced water; every bastion is defended by
on his throne by British arms, than another; guns stand out from each
this very Ballcsteros urged his grate embrasure, pregnant with death,——a
ful master to reconstruct these works, prospect not altogether pleasant to the
as both dangerous and offensive to stranger, who hurries on for fear of an
England. Gen. Don, governor of Gib accident. At every turn a well-ap
raltar, thereupon said to the Spanish pointed, well-fed sentinel indicates a
commander at Algeciras. “ If you be watchfulness which defies surprise.
gin, I will fire a gun; if that won’t We pass on through a barrack teeming
do, I shall fire another; and if you with soldiers’ wives and children, a
persevere, you shall have a broadside perfect rabbit-warren when compared
from the galleries.” If Spain meant to the conventual celibacy of a Spanish
to retain the power of putting these “ quartel."
lines in statu quo after our expulsion of The traveller who lands by the
the French, she should have stipulated steamer-—Gibraltar is some 1540 miles
for this right to rebuild them, pre from Southampton-—will be tormented
viously to beyqirzg us to raze them for her. by cads and touters, who clamorously
Beyond these lines are rows of canvass him to put up at their respec
sentry-boxes which enkennel the gaunt tive inns.
270 nourr. 23.— GIBRALTAR. Sect. III.
“ Club-house Hotel” is good and The truth simply is, that this key of
reasonable; rooms cool, large, and their lake is too strong, and can’t be
airy; very prudent travellers may agree taken by their fleets and armies.
about prices beforehand: “ Griflith’s There is no real difliculty with re
Hotel,” table d‘hote, at 2s. 6<l. “ Du spectable foreigners, who find plenty
moulin’s French Hotel,” Fmda dc of persons ready to be security for
Europa, cheap and airy. Par-ker’s their good behaviour: permits to re
Hotel, Calle Real, cheaper ; Elias side are granted by the police magis
Natson there is a good guide. At trate for 10, 15, or 20 days. Military
“ Griflith’s" is one Messias, a. Jew ofiicers have the privilege of intro
(called Rafael in Spain), who is a ducing a stranger for 30 days, which
capital guide both here and through with characteristic gallantry is gene
out Andalucia. The hospitality pf the rally exercised in favour of the Spanish
Rock is unbounded, and, perhaps, the fair sex. Those who wish to draw or
endless dinnering is one of the greatest to ramble unmolestcd over the rock
changes from the hungry and thirsty should obtain a card from the town
unsocial Spain. As there are generally major, which operates as a passport.
5 regiments in garrison, the messes are Spanish money is current at Gibral
on a grand scale. But death is in the tar, but some changes have been made.
pot, and some faces of “ yours” and
“ ours" glow redder than their jack 1). R-l‘ Q. £. s. d.
ets; so much for the tendency to fever
and intlammations induced by carrying Doubloon (or onza, at 524.
the dollar) - . . . - l6.. .. 3 9'4
the domestics and gastronomics of tdittoditto . o . - . 8.... ll48
cool damp England to this arid and Four-dollar piece - . . . 4 -. .. 0 17 4
torrid “ Rock.’ This garrison. one of Dollar, pillured, Mexican or
the strictest in the world, is a capital Colombian . . . . . 1-... 0 44
iditto, Spanish . . . . .. 6_';.. 0 2,2
school for young ofiicers to learn their Qditto ditto, or 5-real piece - .. 3‘.. 0 111
duty. Realeyrnedia. . . . -.. 1 80 06%
Doce...-........12003i
This being a fortress, on war footing,
strict precautions are of course taken ;Englishpenny. . . . . . .. 4 0 0|
Ditto halfpenny . . . .. .. 2 0 0 1*
everything is on the alert; the gates Ditto fartbing . . . . .. -. 1 0 0 i
are shut at sunset and not opened until Charo, half an English far
sunrise, and after midnight civilians tl.\ing,or~}quarto . . .
used to be obliged to carry a lantern; Mem.—Engllsh silver coins are scarcely ever
nor is any one allowed out after mid used exoept by travellers. The value of a
night, except ofliccrs and those passed shilling is only lld. in mixed copper and
by them. No foreigner can reside on silver money, or 2 reals and ll quurtos; Eng
the Rock without some consul or lish Gd. changes for 5}/I. or 1 real 6 quartos.
The copper wins are a mixture, a few from
householder becoming his surety and every nation: none go for more than 2 quartos,
responsible for his conduct. These except the English penny.
precautions are absolutely necessary,
as this place can never be taken ex The English at Gibraltar have An
cept by treason, and many are those glicized Spanish moneys; the letters
who, under a species of cordial under D, R, and Q, above, mean dollars,
standing, conceal a deadly arriére dams, royals, reales, and quarts, quartos.
pensée of hatred. Gibraltar (“L’om The onza is called the doabloon, and the
brageuse puissance.”—."l/lalson, p. 504) pesos faertes “ hard dollars :” each is
is excessively displeasing to all French divided into 12 imaginary reals, and
tourists: sometimes there is too great each real into 16 quarts; besides this
a “lure do canons in this fortress or the English have coined 2 quarts and
née;” then the gardens destroy “ wild 1 quarts, 1'. e. half-pence and farthings,
nature,” in short, they abuse the red with the Queen’s head and reverse a
jackets, guns, nursery-maids, and even castle. Much bother and considerable
the mon/ca]/s .- ever perfidious, say they, quiet cheating arises from people ask
is the ambitious aggression of England. ing prices in shillings and sixpences,
Ronda (Y Granada. ROUTE 23.—GIBRALTAR. 271
by which, as they are to be paid for Gibraltar, London, 1844, and a work
in Spanish moneys, the traveller is on its botany and geology, Flora Cal
“ done :” a prudent man will always pensis, by Dr. Kelaart; but the ablest
bargain in the coins of the country. work, scientific and nautical, is the
The comparative value of English ‘ Mediterranean,’ 8vo. 1854, by Admiral
and Spanish moneys has been fixed Smyth. Rowswell and Bartolots are
by proclamation at 50 pence the dol the best booksellers on the Rock.
lar, and at this exchange the civil The bay is formed by 2 headlands,
officers and troops are paid. The real by Europa Point on the Rock, and by
value of the dollar varies in mercantile Cabrita in Spain. Its greatest width
transactions according to the exchange, from E. to W. is 5 m., its greatest
being sometimes as low as 48 pence, at length from N. to S. about 8; the depth
other times as high as 54. Letters of in the centre exceeds 100 fathoms.
credit on the principal Spanish towns The anchorage is not, however, very
can be procured from the Gibraltar good, and the bay is open and much
merchants, Mr. S. Benoliel, Turner and exposed, especially to the S.W. winds;
Co., or Messrs. Cavalleros and Mr. then the vessels tug at their cables like
Rowswell. impatient horses, and when they do
At Gibraltar, among other things break loose, get stranded. The wind
which are rare in Spain, is a capital currents generally sweep up and down
English and foreign library, called through this funnel, “ the straights.”
“ the Garrison Library ;” planned in The E. or Levante causes terrible losses
1793 by Col. Drinkwater, and com in the bay, and is termed the tyrant
pleted at the public expense by Mr. of Gibraltar, while the west is hailed
Pitt, it contains, besides newspapers as the liherator. The old mole offers
and periodicals, a well-selected collec a sort of protection to small craft:
tion of some 20,000 volumes. notwithstanding the commerce that
Here let the traveller, with the sweet is carried on, there are few of its ap
bay and Africa before him, a view pliances—quays, wharfs, docks, and
seldom rivalled, and never to be for warehouses-—for even the English seem
gotten, and seated on an easy chair, paralysed in this climate of Spain.
(which is not a cosa de Espufia) look The tide rises about 4 ft. The Rock
through Descripcion de Gibraltar, Fran consists principally of grey limestone
cisco Perez, 4to., Mad. 1636, or the ex of the oolitic period and marble; the
cellent Historia de Gibraltar, by Ignacio highest point is about 1430 ft., the
Lopez de Ayala, Mad. 1782. Three circumference about 6 m., the length
books of this work were put forth from N. to S. about 3. It has been
just when all the eyes of Europe were uplifted at a comparatively recent
bent on the “ Rock,” which the Count epoch, as a sea-beach exists 450 feet
d’Art0is (Charles X.) came to take, above the water’s level.
and did not. The 4th was never pub The Rock was well known to the
lished, and the why will be found ancients, but never inhabited; nor is
in the History of the Siege, by Col. there any mention of any town on it.
Drinkwater, 1783, and republished by The Phoanicians called it Alube; this
Murray, 1844. It details the defence, the Greeks corrupted into Kan/Zn,
and utter frustration, by sea and land, Ram-n, Calpe, and then, defying nature
of the combined fleets and armies of as audaciously as etymology, they said
Spain and France. The History of the it signified “ a bucket," to which shape
Iicrculean Straits, by Col. James, 2 they compared the rock—“ a. tub to a
vols. 4to., London, 1771, is a mass of whale.” Calpe has been interpreted.
dull matter, handled in an uncritical Ca-alpe, the cavern of God, and as
manner. The “Pillars of Hercules,” Cal-be, the Watching at night. Cal,
by Mr. Urquhart,Qre the Ne plus Coll, Gala, is, however, a common pre
Ultra of nonsense. See our paper fix to Iberian and Oriental terms of
inklings on it in the Quarterly, No. height and fortress. Ayala derives
clxxii. There is a small Handbook for Calpe from the Hebrew and the Phu:
272 ROUTE 23.-GIBRALTAR. Sect. III.
nician G/([17/t, Calph, a cared mountain, 5). This delicacy formed a rechazlfié
and rejects the Galfa or Calpe, quasi in modern Spanish bills of fare: the
Urna. Calpc was the European, and entr-e‘e was pleasantly called mt guisado
A713/la the “ lofty” (the rock of Abel), Z1 la Q1188/Ida, the patrotic nucionales
the African pillar of Hercules, the ne having killed and eaten part of that
7:/us ultra land and sea marks of jealous rough and tough royalist in 1836. '
Phoenician monopoly: here, in the The fierce Berbers had for ages be
words of Ariosto, was the goal beyond fore looked from the heights of the
which strangers never were permitted Rif on Spain as their own, and as the
to navigate; La meta que posse ai land of their Carthaginian forefathers :
many were their efforts to reconquer
primi naviganti Ercole invitto. The
Romans are thought never to have it, even during the Roman rule, from
really penetrated beyond these keys of the age of Antoninus (Jul. 13) to that
the outer sea, or the Atlantic, before of Severus (./Elian Sp. 64). These in
the reign of Augustus (Florus, iv. 12). vasions were renewed under the Goths,
Abyla, Abel, Harbel, which according especially, in the 7th century (see
to many signified the “mountain of Isidore ac. i. 3). Their attempts
God,” rises some 2200 feet. Of this failed so long as the Spaniards were
name the English made their “ Ape’s strong, but succeeded when the Gothic
hill,” a. better corruption, at least, than house was divided against itself.
the Greek “ bucket. ’ The Moors call Gibraltar was first taken from the
it Gibel Mo-osa, the Hill of Musa. The Moors, in 1309, by Guzman el Bueno;
Spanish name is Cabo de Bullones, Cape but they regained it in 1333, the Spa
of Knobs. Be these names what they nish governor, Vasco Perez de Meyra,
may, the high rocky fronts of each having appropriated the money des
continent remain the two metaphorical tined for its defence in buying estates
pillars of Hercules; and as what they for himself at Xerez (Chro. Alons. xi.
originally were was an unsettled ques 117). It was finally recovered in 1462
tion in Strabo’s time (iii. 258), they by another of the Guzma.ns,and incor
now may be left in peace. Joseph porated with the Spanish crown in
Buonaparte, Feb. l, 1810, decreed the 1502. The arms are “ gules, a. castle
erection of a third pillar; “ Le Roi or, and a key,” it being the key of the
d’Espagne veut que entre les colonnes Straits. Gibraltar was much strength
d’Hercule s'éle\,ve une troisieme, qui ened by Charles V. in 1552, who
porte a la postérité la plus reculée et employed Juan Baut“. Calvi in raising
aux navigateurs des deux mondes la defences against Barbarossa.
connaissance des chefs et des corps Gibraltar, on which our sagacious
qui out repoussés les Anglais" (Bel Cromwell had an eye, was captured
mas, i. 424), and this near Tarifa, during the VVar of the Succession by
Barrosa, and Trafalgar!!! Compare Sir George Rooke, July 24, 1704, who
this with his brother’s bully pillar at attacked it suddenly, and found it
Boulogne that lifts its head and lies, garrisoned by only 80 men, who im
and the medal, prepared before hand, mediately had recourse to relics and
but not issued. Descente en Anjleterre, saints. All ran away except the curate
_)"/wppe‘ Z1 Londres .' ! of Santa Maria, who was accused of
In the mean time Gibraltar bears the remaining to “ steal the sacramental
name of its Berber conqueror, Gebal plate” (Ayala, p. 325). This good
Tarik, the hill of Tarik, who landed, priest rescued a San Jose‘ from the
as Gayangos has demonstrated, on heretics by putting the image on a
Thursday, April 30, 711. He contri mule and passing the saint for a living
buted much to the conquest of~ Spain, sinner. Thus Eneas fled with his
and was rewarded by the khalif of Penates, and so the Goths transported
Damascus with disgrace. Tarik was their relics to the bturias when Toledo
a true Pizarro; he killed his prisoners, was captured by the infidels. Gibraltar
and served them up as rations to his | was then taken by us in the name of the
troops (Reinaud, ‘ Irw. des Swracins,’ l Archduke Charles, and another stone
Ronda §' Granada. noun: 23.——GIBRALTAR—-THE SIEGE. 273
fell from the vast but ruinous edifice contented, and lies buried in it, a
of the Spanish monarchy: butGcorge l. fitting tomb; Gloria azltem minlmé con
would have given it up at the peace of sepulta.
Utrecht, so little did he estimate its Gibraltar is now a bright pearl in
worth, and the nation thought it a the Ocean Queen’s crown. It is, as
“__barren rock, an insignificant fort, Burke said, “ a post of power, a post of
anda useless charge." So it was again superiority,of connexion,of commerce;
offered to Spain if she would refuse one which makes us invaluable to our
to sell Florida to Buonaparte. What friends and dreadful to our enemies."
its real value is as regards Spain will Its importance, as a depot for coal, is
be understood by supposing Portland increased since steam navigation. Sub
Island to be in the hands of an enemy. sequently to the storming of Acre, new
It is a bridle in the mouth of Spain batteries have been erected to meet this
and Barbary. It speaks a language of new mode of warfare. Sir John Jones
power, which alone is understood and was sent out in 1840, and under his
obeyed by those cognate nations. The direction tremendous bastions were
Spaniards never knew the value of this made at Europa Point, Ragged Stafl",
natural fortress until its loss, which and near the Alameda; while heavier
wounds their national pride, and led guns were mounted on the mole and
Buonaparte, when he found hecould elsewhere. Nor need it be feared
not ta/ze it, to say, that while it opened that the bastions and example of Boyd
nothing and shut nothing, our posses will ever want an imitator in swcula
sion of Gibraltar secured for France sazculorum.
Spain’s hatred of England. Yet Gib Gibraltar is said to contain between
raltar in the hands of England is a 15,000 and 20,000 Inhab., exclusive
safeguard that Spain never can become of the military. In daytime it looks
quite a French province, or the Medi more peopled than it really is, from
terranean a French lake. Hence the the number of sailors on shore, and
Bourbons north of the Pyrenees, have Spaniards who go out at gun-fire. The
urged their poor kinsmen- tools to diiferences of nations and costumes
make gigantic efforts to pluck out this are very curious : a motley masquerade
thorn in their path. is held in this halfway house between
The siege by France and Spain Europe, Asia, and Africa,where every
lasted 4 years. Then the very in man appears in his own dress and
genious Mons. d’Arqon’s invincible speaks his own language. Civilization
floating batteries, that could neither and barbarism clash here indeed. The
be burnt, sunk, nor taken, were soon Cockney, newly imported in a week
either burnt, sunk, or taken by plain per steamer from London, is reading
Englishmen, who stood to their guns, this ‘Handbook’ while seated near a
on the 13th of Sept. 1783. There black date-merchant from the borders
upon Charles X., then Count d’Artois, of the deserts of Timbuctoo, each
who had posted from Paris to have staring at, and despising his nonde
glory thrust upon him, posted back script neighbour. The Rock is a Babel
again, after the precedent of his of languages, and “you don’t under
ancestors, those kings with 20,000 stand us ” is the order of most market
men, who march up hills, and then places. Of foreigners, the Jews, who
march back again. He concealed his are always out of doors, are the dirti
disgrace under a scurvy jest : “ La bat est; the Moors the cleanest and best
terie la plus etfective fut ma batterie behaved; the Ronda smuggler the most
de cuisine.” Old Eliott stood during picturesque. The British houses, the
the glorious day on the “ King’s Bas rent of which is very dear, are built
tion,” which was erected in 1773, by on the stuffy Wapping principle, with
Gen. Boyd, who, in laying the first a Genoese exterior; all is brick and
stone, prayed “ to live to see it resist plaster and wood-work, cribbed and
the united fleets of France and Spain.” confined, and filled with curtains and
His prayer was granted; there he died carpets, on purpose to breed vermin
N 3
274 noun: 23.——GlBRALTER—TIl'E FEVER. Sect. III.
and fever in this semi-African hotbed ; mean building, decorated with a bust
calculated to let in the enemy, heat, of Gen. Don. Here are a library
so that Nelson, who dearly as he loved and newspapers, and a club, to which
the “old Rock,” hoped that all the travellers, especially mercantile, are
small houses at its back might be readily admitted. In- this square,
burnt ; “perhaps if half the town went during the day, sales by auction take
with them it would be better.” (Desp. place; the whole scene in the open air,
March 20 1805.) combined with the variety of costume,
These ill-contrived tenements are is truly peculiar. The out-of-doors
fit only for salamanders and “ scor dress of the females is a red cloak
pions ” as those born on the Rock and hood, edged with black velvet of
are called. The monkeys, in fact, Genoese extraction.
are the oldest and wisest denizens Gibraltar has one great comfort.
of the Rock, as they live cool and There are no custom-houses, no odious
comfortable on the sea-blown cliffs. searchingsof luggage ; almost every
The narrow streets are worthy of these thing is alike free to be imported or
nut-shell houses; they are, except the exported. Accordingly, the barren
Main Street, ycleped “ lanes,” e.g. Rock, which in itself produces nothing
Bomb-house Lane and Horse-barrack and consumes everything, is admirably
Lane. Few genuine Moro-Peninsular supplied. This ready-money market
towns have any streets; the honesty of infuses life into the Spanish vicinity,
England scorns the exaggerations of which exists by furnishing vegetables
S1pa_nis_hlCaIles, and caillsttllilpgs hgre by; and other articles of consumption:
t eir rigshow
things it names-
thatlthein ac is an is
bold Briton mos an the beef, which is not a thing of Spain,
comes from Barbary. Gibraltar is
interloper, and not “ of the_ country.” very dear, especially house~rent, wages,
But John Bull, like the snail, loves to and labour of all kinds. It is a. dull
carry his native shell with him, irre place of residence to those who are
spective of changes of climate or habits neither merchants nor military. The
of different conditions and necessities. climate is peculiarly fatal to children
hThe “ l\’§_a(i;p,b O11‘ Waterlliort Str}clet,_” rquring early dentition ; otherwise it is
t e aorta 0 i ra tar is tie antit esis ealthy; disagreeable, however, during
of a Spanish town. iiions and Britan the prevalence of easterly winds, when
pias danlglefover innumeralgle }pot a misty vapour hangs over the summit
ouses t e oreign names 0 w ose of the Rock, and the nerves of man
proprietors combine strangely with the and beast are grievously affected.
Queen’s English. “ Manuel Ximenez The Gibraltar fever, about which
-—lodgings and neat liquors.” In these doctors have disagreed so much, the
signs, and in the surer signs of bloated patients dying in the mean while, como
faces, we see that we have passed from chinches, is most probably endemic; it
a land of sobriety into a den of gin is nurtured in Hebrew dirt, fed by
and intemperance; every thing and want of circulation of air and offensive
sewers at low tide. It is called into
body is in motion; there is no quiet,
fatal activity by some autumnal atmo
no repose ; all is hurry and scurry, for
time is money, and Mammon is the spherical peculiarity. The average
visitation is about every twelve years.
god of'Gib., as the name is vulgarized,
according to the practice of abbreviThe quarantine regulations, especially
ators and settlers of “Boney.” The as regards ships coming from the Ha
entire commerce of the Peninsula vana and Alexandria, are severe: they
5€]€lI1S0O1l11d€l1S?i(l intg this microcoscmusd are under the control of the captain of
w ere a cree san nations rnee an the port. There is an excellent civil
most of them adepts at the one giand hospital here, arranged in 1815 by
game of beggar my neighbour. Gen. Don, in which Protestants, Ro
The principal square is the “ Com man Catholics, and Jews have their
n
mercia . Here are situated the best wards separate, like their creeds.
hotels and the “ Public Exchange,” a _ Gibraltar was made a free port by
Ronda <§' Granada. ROUTE 23.—GIBRALTAR—THE JEWS. 275
Queen Anne; and the sooner some Spaniards fled when attacked by Adm.
change is made the better, for the Rooke. Now Elliot and Boyd are the
“ Rock,” like Algeria, is a refuge for English tutelars, and the bastions and
destitute scamps, and is the asylum of galleries are their Milagros.
people of all nations who expatriate The Jewish synagogue is noisy and
themselves for their c0untry’s good. curious; the females do not attend, as
Here revolutions are plotted against it is a moot point with their Rabbins
friendly Spain; here her revenue is whether they have souls, to allow that
defrauded by smugglers, and particu would bring them to a too near equality
larly by alien cigar-makers, who thus with the male sex ; nor do the men pray
interfere with the only active manufac for them—- at all events, they only thank
ture of Spain. God in their orations that they are
Gibraltar is the grand depot for not women, who, be it said, as far as
English goods, especially cottons, bodies and beauty go, are often angels
which are smuggled into Spain, along ready made. There is a ci-devunt con
the whole coast from Cadiz to Beni vent chapel in the governor’s house
dorme, to the great benefit of the for Protestants, and a newly erected
Spanish authorities, placed nominally church or cathedral in the Moorish
to prevent what they really encourage. style, and not before it was wanted:
The S. of Spain is thus supplied with this was finished in 1832, and Gibraltar
as much of our wares as it is enabled has, at last, a Protestant bishop; and
topurehase, nor would any treaty of thus at last has been wiped out the scan
commerce much increase the consump dalous neglect of all our governments
tion. at home for the spiritual wants and
Recently some reforms have been religious concerns of its colonists:
made in Gibraltar, long a spot of while the activity, intelligence, and
much mismanagement and expense, industry of England have rendered
which now pays the governor and every nook of the Rock available for
civil oflicers, &c. It is cleansed and defence, no house until lately was
lighted by a rate on houses. Spirits raised to God. The colonisation of
pay a considerable, and wine, tobacco, the English Hercules has never been
and licences a small duty. The mili marked by a simultaneous erection of
tary ofiiccrs are paid by government, temples and warehouses; a century
to whom Gibraltar is a most valuable elapsed, in which more money was
dépot for shipping troops to the colo expended in masonry and gunpowder
nies; and the new fortifications have than would have built St.Peter’s, before
naturally been paid for at the cost of a Protestant church was erected in this
the mother state. sink of Moslem, Jewish, and Roman
The “ Rock,” in religious toleration, Catholic and Protestant profligacy.
or rather indifference, is again the The law is administered here ac
antithesis of Spain. Here all creeds cording to the rules and cases of West
are free, and all agree in exclusive minstcr Hall, and those technicalities
money-worship. There are now two which were meant for the protection
bishops here; the elder is a Roman of the innocent, of course, have become
Catholic, and appointed by the Pope the scapcholes of the worst of oflenders.
in partibus infidelimn. The Strntrtfllaria It might be apprehended that a code
his church, is poor and paltry, and very and practice hardly fitted by the growth
unlike the gorgeous pantheons of the of centuries for a free and intelligent
Peninsula. Here, in the juxta-position people would not work well in a
of the Bible, he hides those “mum foreign garrison with a mongrel, mot
meries" which show best by candlelight. ley, dangerous population, bred and
Gibraltar, in good old Roman Catholic born in despotism, accustomed to the
times, had its local saints and miracles, summary bowstring of the Kaid, or
like every other Spanish place. Con the cuatro tiros of the Spaniards; ac
sult Portillo, book iv., Sevilla, 1634; cordingly, when gross violations of
and Ayala’s Historia. To them the international law and common sense
276 ROUTE 23.—GIBRALTAR—THE MONKEYS. Sect. Ill.
take place, the Spanish‘ authorities and the wrinkled front of a fortress
never give credit to the excuse of the is smoothed with roses. The “ guard
English that they are fettered by law, mountings” and parades take place on
and by imperfect power. As they do not this open space; the decorations of the
believe us to be fools, they set us down garden are more military than artis
for liars, or as the encouragers of tical: here is a figure-head of the
abuses which we profess to be unable Spanish three-decker “ Don Juan,” a
to prevent; such, say they, are the relic of Trafalgar; observe a caricature
tricks of “ La perfide Albion.” cafving of old Eliott, surrounded
Gibrrzltar is soon seen; nowhere does with bombs as during the siege; a
the idler sooner get bored. There is bronze bust of Wellington is placed
neither letters nor fine art, the arts on an antique pillar brought from Le
of making money and war excepted. pida, with a doggish Latin inscription
The governor of this rock of Mars and by a Dr. Gregory. Close by, Neptune
Mannnon resides at the convent, for emerges from the jaw-bones of a whale,
merly a Franciscan one. It is_a good more like a Jonah than a deity; under
residence. The garden, laid, out by the leafy avenues the fair sex listen to
Lady Don, is delicious, but Scotch the bands and gaze on the plumed
horticulture under an Andalucian camp, being gazed at themselves by
climate can wheedle everything out of the turbaned Turk and white-robed
Flora and Pomona. Moor. At one end of this scene of
The military traveller will, of life is a silent spot where ofiieers alone
course, examine the defences and the are buried, and into which no “ Nabit—
“ Guards.” He may begin at “ Land ant” or “Scorpion” is permitted to
Port ;" walk to the head of the Devil's intrude.
Tongue Battery; visit the “ Fish-mar This part of the fortress has recently
ket ;” observe the finny tribe, strange been much strengthened, and may now
in form and bright in colour: besides defy attacks from armed steamers. A
these monsters of the deep, snails, toad very formidable work has been sunk
stools, and other delicacies of the season on the glacis,andis christened Victoria
are laid out for your omnivorous battery. The new bastion running
foreigner. The fish is excellent and from the Orange bastion to the King's,
always fresh, for whatever is not sold and a very magnificent defence, bears
during the day is either given away the name of Prince Albert. Another,
or destroyed at gun-fire. from its sunken level and zigzag form,
Now follow the sea or “ Line Wall” is familiarly called the Snake in the
to the “ King’s Bastion ;” give a look Grass.
at the new church, or cathedral of The surface of the Rock, bare and
Holy Trinity, a heavy semi-Moorish tawny in summer, starts into verdure
with the spring and autumnal rains,
temple for the Protestant bishop of the
Mediterranean diocese: in the inside which call the seeds into life; more
lies Gen. Don, the Balbus, the Augustus than 400 plants flourish on these almost
of the Rock, which he strengthened and soilless crags. Partridges and rabbits
embellished; his bones rest on the site abound, being never shot at. The
which he so loved and so much benefited. real lions of “Gib.” are the apes, Zos
Now pass out the “ South Port,” by monos, for which Solomon sent to Tar
the gate and walls built by Charles V. shish (1 Kings x. 22). They haunt
as defences against the Turks, into the highest points, and are active as
the Alameda or Esplanade, formerly the chamois; like delicate dandies,
called the “ red sands,” and a burning
they are seldom seen except when a
desert and a cloacal nuisance until Levanter, or E. wind, affecting their
converted by Gen. Don, in 1814, into nerves, drives them to the west end.
a garden of sweets and delight, of These exquisites have no tails, and are
geranium-trees and bella sombras; and very harmless. There is generally one,
beautiful is shade on this burning a larger and the most respectable,who
rock: thus Flora is wedded to Mars, takes the command, and is called the
Ronda 5' Granada. noun: 23.——-GIBRALTAR. 277
“ town-major.” These monkeys rob barrack. The supply, for which the
the gardens when they can, otherwise soldier was charged, was brought in
they live on the sweet roots of the Pal (when the public tanks got low) f1'om
mito ; for them also there is a religious wells on the neutral ground at a great
toleration, and they are never molested : expense. The salubrity of these Europa
but such is the principle of English Point and VVindmill Hill barracks is
colonization, ne quiem wnorcrc. We do neutralized by their distance from Gib
not seek to denationalize the aborigines, raltar; when not on duty, the soldier
whether men or monkeys. is in the town or Rosia pothouses;
Mons. Bory de St. Vincent, specu there he remains until the last mo
lating con amore on “ ces singes,” has ment, then heats himself by hurrying
a notion that men also came from back up the ascent, and exposing him
Africa into Spain (Guide, 237), and self to draughts and night air, which
hence into France. But his learned sow the seeds of disease and death.
countryman D’Hermilly, following Shade, water, and vegetables are of
Fer!-eras, opined that the Iberian vital importance to soldiers brought
aborigines arrived directly from heaven from damp England to this arid rock.
by air; indeed, the critical historian Were the crags coated properly with
Masdeu, who knew his countrymen the manure and offal of the town, they
better, had only ventured tohint in 1 784 might be carpeted with verdure, and
that they might have possibly arrived made a kitchen-garden. If ever Gib
by land. Now, as far as Spain is raltar be lost, it will be from treachery
concerned, the monkeys are confined within; and this was once nearly the
to this rock. case, from the discontent occasioned
To the rt. of the gardens are “ Ragged by the over discipline of a royal mar
staff Stairs” (the ragged staff was one tinet governor. The evil will arise
of the badges of Burgundian Charles should any effete general, or one who
V.); this portion, and all about “ Jump has never seen active service, be placed
er’s Battery,” was, before the new there in command. He might worry
works, the weak point of the Rock, and the men and oflicers with the minutia:
here the English landed under Adm. of pipe-clay pedantry: under this
Rooke. Ascending “ Scud Hill,” with scorching clime the blood boils, and
“Windmill Hill” above it, and the the physical and moral forces become
new mole and dockyard below, is the irritable, and neither should be trifled
shelving bay of Rosia. Near this fresh, with unnecessarily.
wind-blown spot, which is sometimes The extreme end of the Rock is
from 5 to 6 degrees cooler than the called “ Europa Point; here, under
town, is the Naval Hospital, and fine the Spaniards, was a chapel dedicated
Spanish buildings called the “South to la Vi/-gen do Europa, the lamp of
Barracks and Pavilion.” The “ Flats” whose shrine served also as abeacon to
at Europa Point are an open space used mariners; thus quite supplanting the
for manoeuvres and recreation. Gen. Venus of the ancients. Now a new
Don wished to level and plant it, but Protestant lighthouse and batteries
was prevented by some engineering have been erected: on the road thither
wiseacres, who thought level ground are some charming glens, filled with
would facilitate the advance of an villas and gardens; albeit these pretty
Rura in Marte savour more of the
enemy! and the troops were exercised
on the burning neutral sands for the Cockney than of Hercules. Round to
benefit of their legs and eyes. That the E. 1s the cool summer pavilion of
most expensive article, a good English the governor nestled under beetling
soldier, was too long scandalously neg clifi's; below is a cave tunnelled by the
lected at “ Gib.,” and in nothing more waves: beyond this the Rock cannot be
than his dress, his barrack, and his passed, as the cliffs rise like walls out
water; a better order of things was of the sea. This side is an entire con
commenced by Gen. Don. Some new trast to the other: all here is solitude
tanks have recently been made for each and inaccessibility, and Nature has
278 nouns 23.-emmnmn. Sect! III.
reared her own impregnable bastionsz at sunrise and sunset is fired a'gun,
an excursion round in a boat 'should which, “ booming slow with sullen
be made to Catalan Bay. Returning roar,” speaks the only language which
from this extreme point, visit St. Mi is perfectly understood on both sides
chael's Cave, some half way up the of the straits. This, like the sword
Rock; here affairs of honour of the of Alexander, cuts the kn0ts—the
garrison are, or used to be, settled. enredos y cmbustes of the Spaniard in
The interior of this extraordinary authority, who, like the nettle, stings
cavern is seen to greatest advantage the hand that treats him gently-—the
when illuminated with blue-lights: Duke knew how to grasp him with iron
after this visit the Moorish water clench. “ The only way to get them to
tanks, which have olfered both amodel do anything on any subject is to frighten
and an example to ourselves. The them” (Disp. Nov. 2,1813). Again,
naval commissioner's house, on this Nov. 27, 1813, “ You may rely on this,
slope, long the head-quarters of job that if you take a firm decided line,
bing, is the perfection of a Mediterra and show your determination to go
nean villa. Among the many caverns through with it, you will bring the
of this Calpe, or caved mountain, is Spanish government to their senses,
that called “Beefsteak Cave,” which and you will put an end at once to all
lies above the flats of Europa. No the petty cabals." “ Nothing,” says
menclature assuredly marks national the Duke, “ can ever be done without
character, and this savours more of coming to extremities with them”
Mons. Foy’s beef-fed Briton than of (Disp. Dec. 1, 1813). A man-of-war
the hungry, religious, water-drinking in the Bay of Cadiz will effect more
Spaniard, whose artillery tank at in a da than six months’ writing
Brewer’s barracks below is still called reams o red-taped foolscap: this was
“ Nems’ lVell.” Elizabeth’s and Cromwell’s receipt.
Another morning may be given to No Spaniard, prince or priest, ever
visiting the galleries and heights: first tritled with their Drakes, Blakes, and
ascend to the castle, which is one of other naval diplomats.
the oldest Moorish buildings in Spain, The feu-d’artifice, on the Queen’s
having been erected in 7'25 (P) by Abu birth-day, is very striking; the royal
Abul Hajez, as the Arabic inscription salute begins at the Rock gun, comes
over the S. gate records. The Torre down the hill, by the Galleries, to
JI/)0/uz, or Torre dc Omenaje, is riddled Willis’s battery, and is then taken up
with shot-marks, the honourable scars by the troops at the bottom.
of the siege: near this the “ galleries ” The signal-house, under the Spanish
are entered, which are tunnelled in rule; was called el Hacho, the torch,
tiers along the N. front; the gold of because here were lighted the beacons
England has been lavished to put iron in case of danger: near it is la Silleta,
into the bowels of the earth. But the the little chair, to which formerly a
glorious defence made Gibraltar po narrow path led from Catalan Bay:
pular, and no money was grudged on it was destroyed to prevent surprises,
defences, which Eliot had just proved as Gibraltar was once nearly retaken
were not wanting. These batteries are by a party of Spaniards, who crept up
perhaps more a show of terror than a during the night by this Scnda del
reality; at the extremity are magni Pastor; they failed from being un
ficent saloons, that of Lord Cornwallis
supported by their friends at the Lines,
and the “ Hall of St. George,” where who never arrived at the moment of
immortal Nelson was feasted. danger; and when the English scaled
Visit next “ Willis Battery ;" the the hill, the assailants were found to be
flats which overhang the precipice unprovided even with ammunition:
were once called el Salto del Lobo, the cosas de Espruia. The S. point of the
Wolf’s leap: then ascend to the “ Rock Rock is called O'Hara’s Tower or
gun,” placed on the N. of the 3 points ; Folly, having been built by that Sapient
the central is the “ signal-post;” here ofiicer to watch the movements of the
Ronda & Granada. ROUTE 23.—G1BRALTAR. 279
Spanish fleet at Cadiz, when there tas,” Pine \Vood, Malaga Road, and
was one; it was soon afterwards struck Duke of Kent’s farm. Horse-keep is
by lightning, which completed its reasonable, about two dollars per week
inutility. for each horse; the price of a nag
The view is magnificent; it is in varies from 20 to 150 dollars.
deed the sentinel watch-tower of the None should omit to cross the
Mediterranean, the battle-sea of Eu Straits, and just set foot on Africa, and
rope, to visit whose shores must ever, remember to eat Kouscosou; the contrast
as Dr. Johnson says, be the first object is scarcely less striking than passing
of travel. Descending amid zigzag, from Dover to Calais. The excursion
admirably engineered roads, chiefly the into Barbary is both easy and interest
work of Gen. Boyd, the views are deli ing. 'l‘he partridge shooting and
cious, while the browsing wild goats wild-boar hunting, near Tetuan are
form foregrounds fit for Claude Lor good; a small steamer, set up, it
raine. The sandy strip, or neutral would seem, to facilitate smuggling,
ground, has a cricket-ground and a runs from Algeciras to neighbouring
race-course, cosas dc Inglaterra: pass ports. There is also a constant com
ing the Devil’s Tower, an ancient bar munication by Misticos and other craft
bacan, is an approach to Catalan Bay. between Barbary and the “ Rock,”
Inland excursions maybe made to which is supplied with beef by con
San Roque, 6 m.; to Carteia, 5 m.; to tract with the Emperor of Morocco;
. Ximem, lodge with Don Jnan (lo Leon, and steamers, English and French, ply
24 m., with its Moorish castles and irregularly every week to Tangiers:
caves. The pedigree of these caves is the former the best. Cross, therefore,
undeniable : when Crassus took refuge over to Tangiers,which once belonged
in them they belonged to one Paciecus, to England, having formed part of
and when visited by Mr. Conduit still the portion of the Portuguese wife of
belonged to one Pacheco. This name Charles II. Put up with La Esvoccsa,
is itself Phoenician, Pit/mac the 9l'M7¢l or Miss Duncan, a Scottish ladies’
X0; of the Greeks. See this point house, which is clean and comfortable;
enlarged on by us in ‘ Quarterly Re excellent accommodation, with mode
view,’ No. cxxiii. p. 100. Or you rate charges, is to be also had at Mrs.
may excurse to Tarifa, 24 m.; to Ashton’s. Mr. Hay, the English con
Algeciras, 10 m. (see Index). sul and author of the amusing ac
There is good rough shooting in the count of the Moors, understands the
neighbourhood of Gibraltar, especially country and natives better than most
the woodcocks in the “ Cork Wood,” men. Visit the Alcazar, the Roman
and partridges and wild fowl in the bridge outside the town, and the Swed
vicinity of jlstcpona. Excursions on ish and Danish consuls’ gardens; visit
horseback, or with the gun, may be also some Berber village or Douar, and
made to the convent of Almoraima, the lake near Cape Spartel. Previously
14 m., and 4 m. on to the nobly-situated to returning from Tangiers to Gibraltar,
castle of Crlstcllur, the property of the be sure that the boat is likely to arrive
Ms. de Moscoso, who owns large estates before gun-fire.
in these districts. Sebastian el Escri' Obtain by application to the English
b/mo is the best guide there, but the consul a soldier as an escort, and ride
“ Gib.” hacks know the way blind in 12 h. to picturesque Tetuan; lodge
fold. For fox-hounds, the “Calpe in the Jewish quarter with Solomon
Hunt” have been kept ever since Nathan. The daughters of Israel, both
1817, when started by Adm. Fleming. at Tetuan and Tangiers, are unequalled
Foxes are rather too plentiful, as Don in beauty: observe the eyes, feet, and
Celestino Cobos, the owner of the first costume of these true Rcbeccas. The
Venta cover, is a great preserver: and Jews speak a corrupt Spanish. Visit
since the hunt gave him a silver cup, the Kaid in the Alcazar, taking a pre
a vulpicide is unheard of. The best sent, for Biro/zsish is here everything:
“ meets ” are “ first and second Ven visit also the bazaar and the Sultau’s
280 noun: 2-1.—GIBRALTAR T0 MALAGA. Sect. III.
garden. Tetuan was founded in 1492 that its and his deliverers should
by the refugees from Granada; many evacuate the place.
of the families yet exist, who retain The town of Ceuta is c1ean,and paved
the title-deeds of their former estates, in a mosaic pattern. P0-Slld/L, la de
and the keys of their doors ready Rosalia. The (formerly) English bar
for re-occupation. Tetuan and its rack is now a wretched )'n'csi(li0 or
population may be taken as a type place for convicts, who are not at all
of what the Spanish Moor and his well kept or treated; in fact their
cities were. There is no danger or difli death economises rations and makes
culty in this interesting African trip. them quite sure. All the Spaniards,
The Spaniards despise the Moors, and however, are confined to their rock,
being utterly ignorant of their real and kept iu presidio by the Moors, who
condition fancy Tetuan to be a wil shoot at them the moment they stir
derness of monkeys; hence the pro beyond their defences, and the chief
verb, Se fue d Tetuan para pillar monos, supplies of this dull town of banish
or para coyer monos. The old leaven of ment come from Algeciras. From
mutual hatred and ignorance remains, Ceuta the Moors embarked on their
and there is no love lost on either. invasion of Spain; the secret mover of
side. this expedition was the person called
Another day’s sail may be made Count Julian,who is said thus to have
from Algeciras to Cewta; this opposed revenged his daughter’s injured ho
rock to Gibraltar is the Botany Bay of nour by dethroning Don Roderick, her
S aniards. The name is a corruption scducer. It is not clear who or what
o “ septem,” the seven hillocks on he was; his real name was Olianus,
which it is built; it is very strongly whence Elyano Ilyan: he was probably
fortified, especially on the land side, a rich Berber merchant, and one of
and is well garrisoned for Spain, with great influence over those fierce high
5000 men. Ceuta should belong, as it laudcrs of the lower Atlas (consult the
once did, to the owners of Gibraltar, curious and learned note, ‘ Moh. D.’
and then the command of the Straits i. 537; and see La Cava, post, p. 285).
would be complete, except in fogs: Those who have not been to Ronda,
and we deserve to have Ceuta, for dur should ride by Gaucin, Ronda, and
ing the war such were the neglect and Casarabonela to Malaga. To those who
incapacity of the Spanish juntas, such have the choice, two routes are open,
their unworthy suspicions of England, either by land, or by sea by the steamer,
and refusal to admit our troops, that which is the most rapid, and the sea
the French, or possibly even the Moors coast is magnificent all the way down
themselves, would have taken it had to Almeria; if they go by land, nota
not Sir Colin Campbell sent over 500 bene to fill the provision hamper be
men under Fraser on his own responsi fore starting with a farewell joint of
bility ; and even these were long kept the roast beef of old England.
out in the boats, permission to land
being refused by the Spaniards, but ROUTE 24.—GIBRALTAR T0
Fraser insisted, saying, “ Ceuta nmsi MALAGA.
be preserved.” No sooner were the Va. del Guadairo . . . 4
Cadiz Cortes saved by the victory of Estepona. . . . (long) 3 7
Salamanca, than they contemplated Marbclla . . . . - 5 10
passing a law to prevent any foreign Ojeu . . . - . 1 11
Monda . - . . 2 13
soldier (meaning British!) from ever Malaga . . . . 5 18
being admitted into a Spanish garrison,
01'.
and this when their chief garrisons Marbella . . . . . 10
not taken by the French were precisely Fuengirola . . . (long) 4 . . 14
those which, in their hour of need, Benahnedinn . . . . 2 .. I6
they had entreated England to defend. Malaga . . . . . . 3 . . 19
At the peace in 1814, Ferdinand VII. This may be ridden in two days’
made a formal and ungracious demand hardish work. The distance from Gib
Ronda & Granada. ROUTE 24.—nAnBE1.1.A. 281
raltar to Estepona is good 7 L., and the Spaniards, like the Orientals,
takes 8 h. riding, and from Estepona generally leave the disposal of the
to Faengirola 10 L. bodies of the slain in battle to the
Gibraltar, as Strabo observed, lies vulture, the recham./1/i of Scripture, and
about half way between Cadiz and the national undertaker. The Iberians
Malaga The coast bridleroad is as believed that the souls of those whose
sandy as the trochas of the Serrania bodies were thus exposed were trans
are stony; the line is studded with ported at once to heaven (Sil. Ital. iii.
atalayas. Passing through the “ Lines” 342; xiii. 471). The ancients held
along the sands, cross the dangerous this bird to be sacred because it never
valley of the Gzmdairo, Fluvius Bar preyed on the living, and was an ex
besulaa; in fact, from the number of cellent undertaker and scavenger. Spain
bridgeless torrents pouring down from is the land of the vulture: the flocks
the hills, this route becomes impractica hover over their prey, and soar sulkily
ble in rainy weather. Estepuna, Cilniana, away when disturbed, parting the light
was built in 1456 from a ruined Moor air with heavy wing. During the late
ish town: it supplies “the Rock” with wars the number of these feathered
fruit and vegetables. Pop. 8000. Po _qnem-illeros multiplied fearfully, like
szda kept by Christobal Navarro. A those Of the lat/'0 z'm1:l'zmz's kind. Battle,
few arches remain of the ancient aque murder, and sudden death provided sus
duct of S/Jldaba, at Las Bo1:cdas. On tenauce to the carrion-feeders, whose
the hills to the l. is Manilba, the He numbers increased with supply of sub
dionrla, or fetid Harrowgate waters, of sistence. The indecency of the Spaniard
the coast. The hygman spring ofl'ends towards a dead body is very remark
the nose and palate, but benefits the able; a live man is of small value, a.
stomach; the smell and taste, accord dead one of rather less. The Sangrados
ing to local legends, are attributed to have small use for anatomical subjects,
the farewell sigh of a water-devil, who, since it saves them trouble to practise
on being expelled by Santiago, evapo on their patients before the coup do
rated, like a dying attorney, with a grace is given.
sulphurous twang. Diego de Mendoza (Guerras de
Next is crossed “ el Rio Verde.” Granada, iv.) describes the discovery
This wild oleander-fringed mountain of these bleaching bones, and the rage
torrent is translated by Bishop Percy and grief of the army. He borrows,
as a “ gentle river with zci/lowed shore :” without either acknowledging the ob
assuredly the prelate never crossed it, ligation, or improving on his original,
as we have done, when swollen by a from Tacitus, ‘ An.’ i. 6l,whose splen
heavy rain; but, as he said, “green did account of the finding the remains
would not sound wellz” what would of the legions of Varus is well known.
he have done with the Red Sea? But Mendoza is now called the Spanish
green being the colour of the prophet, Tacitus, just as 'l‘oreno might be
is esteemed in tawny Spain, where it is termed their Southey, as far as l0cmin_:]
scarce, and ojos verdcs, despite of “ green other men’s ideas go.
eyed jealousy,” is a delicate compliment M/irbcllu, a pretty town with a pretty
to those of a lady. Green in the symbol name, rises in a sweet climate amidst
of colours signifies hope ;—and what is groves and gardens, backed by the
life in Spain or out, without it? This Sierra Blanca, for here verdant hills
river is one of sad recollections in the are called white, as azure streams are
ballads of Spain. On the hills above, green. Isabella is said to have ex
Alonso de Aguilar, with the flower of claimed, “ Que Mar tun bella!” Mar
Andalusian chivalry, was waylaid and bella is frail and fair, and, like Poti
put to death by El Feri, of Beuastapar. phar’s wife, is said to steal raiment :
The unburied bones, still bleaching, “ Marbella es bwlla, no emtres on alla ;
were found in 1570 by his great-grand Quien entm con cnpa, sale sin alla."
son; and such, for many years, will be
the bone~strewed pass of Cabool; for The posadas San Christobal and La C0
282 ROUTE 2-1.——GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. Sect. III.
ronu are decent. Consult ‘ C07ljL’lIU‘(l.S‘ while others maintain that the real
dc Marbell/1,’ Pedro Vasquez de Clavel, venue is to be laid at Montilla near
4to., Cordova. It was taken from the Cordova. Be that as it may the pre
Moors in 1485. Pop. 5000. sent village was built by the Moors
Near the Rio Verde are the iron from the remains of the ancient city,
works, L-z Concepcion, established by which is still called Jlonda la Vieju.
the late Manuel de Heredia, who in Munda was of Iberian origin. Mon,
troduced the English system, and Monoa—unde Mons—is a_prefiX of
operatives. The ore is rich, but want height. It lay to the W., and Was,
of fuel neutralises this bounty of according to Strabo, the metropolis of
nature. the district. -Consult ‘Examen dc las
The road now branches; that by illcdullns ftHI‘il1r1iCl1tS ci la Ciudad de
the coast passes the castle of Manda,’ G. L. Bustamente, fol. Mad.
F//engfrol/z — Suel -——- Posrzdo del Sal 1799. I
vador ,- this place stands boldly on acrag Here, in a conflict between Scipio
jutting over an orange-garden. Here and Magon, the former was wounded
Lord Blayney immortalized himself. (Livy, xxiv. 42). Here, or wherever
Sent in Oct. 1810, by Gen. Campbell, it was, Caesar, March 17, 47 n.c., de
from Gibraltar, to surprise this castle feated the sons of Pompey: this, the
and act upon Malaga, “he made,” “last of battles,” left the conqueror
says Napier, “ his dispositions with the without a rival, and gave the world
utmost contempt of military rules,” to one master (Florus, iv. 2, 82;
lost 2 days in cannonading the castle Lucan, ‘ Phar.’ i. 40). Caesar arrived
with 12-pounders, and thus afforded from Rome in 24 days (Suet. in Vit.
Sebastiani time to come up with a su 56). The first news of his coming
perior force. To crown the blunders, was conveyed both to his own troops
Blayney, according to his own book, and to the enemy by his actual arrival
“took these French for Spaniards;” (Hirt. ‘B.H.’ 29). Hirtius, a friend
and they took him prisoner. The real of Caesar’s, describes the plain, and
Spaniards, having left the English to the bright sun, which shone out as if
bear the burden of the fight, now re the gods had made it a day for
embarked under the protection of the triumph, like Le Soleil d’Austerh'tz.
Rodney’s broadsides. Lord Blayney He makes the best of the event, and
ate his way through Spain and France, enumerates the number of the slain,
and then published a narrative of a the prisoners, and the captured stand
forced (meat?) journey. 2 v., London, ards, but Florns gives those details
1814, to the infinite joy of reviewers, which the conqueror concealed. The
who compared it to Drunken Barna countenance of Caesar, which used to
by’s travels. The castle is what the brighten at the trumpet-sound, was
Spaniards term a Casa de ratones; and overcast; a silence came over the con
in this rat-trap, in 1834, the poor rebel tending armies, who knew how im
dupe Torrijos and his companions were portant was the hazard of the cast.
caught by the sanguinary scoundrel The veterans, flushed with 14 years of
Moreno, who shot them all like dogs victory, wavered, and Cars-ar himself
at Malaga. for amoment despaired and meditatcd
On leaving Mzrbella, avoid these suicide (Suet. in Vit. 36). He flung
scenes of dishonour, and turn into the himself from his horse, and cast otf
mountains to the 1. by Coin; 3 L. of his helmet that he might be known
ascent amid vines lead to Ojen, a ro (App. ‘B. C.’ ii. 804): the day was
mantic village in a bosom of beauty. won, not by the soldiers, but by the
Passing on, lie the hamlet and castle general (Vell. Pat. ii. 55). The con
of M'on'l1/, near which was fought the queror then remarked that previously
Waterloo of antiquity. The exact site he had always fought for victory, but
is unknown; so much for glory! then for his very life. 30,000 of the
Some contend that Pompey’s camp enemy were slain, and a rampart of
was near the rt. bank of the Seco, dead bodies was raised around Munda,
Ronda dr Granada. ROUTE 24-.———MALAGA—THl-I CLIMATE. 283
for want of gabions (App. loc. cit.). the waiters speak English, French,
Caesar then cut down a forest for pali and Spanish: Balcon also understands
sadoes, leaving a single palm stand all about hiring horses, mules, filling
ing, an omen and record of victoi'y botas y ulfuzjas, whether you are bound
(Suet. Aug. 94). For other details of for Granada, Ronda, or Gibraltar. For
these districts, consult Esp. Sag. xii. horses and mules, Pedro Perez, 7,
291. Calle de Postas. Other inns are Fonda
A rich fruit district intervenes to de los Tres Reg/es— Cuatro Naciones,
Coin; Oartama lies on a hill to the gooddantd 0l8%_lIll1—-Parddfi dc las DilCz;gen
1. : thence, leaving C’/zurrmna to the rt., CMS ll‘ y. ere are so many asas
through Alhaurin el Grandc, of Moor dc 1”upil05: one at Romagnoli, near the
ish oi-igin—al haur, the valley—distant pathedral, can be recommended as a
4 L. from Malaga; it is much resorted air quarter.
to for the baths, since an establish Invalids, and especially those whose
ment on the Graefenburg principle lungs are affected, will find the cli
has been set up. There is a decent inate of Malaga siiperioi‘ to anything
inn in the Calle San Sebastian, and a in Italy or Spain. l he characteristics
so-called Murillo—a St. Francis—in are constant sunshine and dryness of
the parish church. The izfuerta, /zoya air; in 1850 only seven days of real
or valley, near Malaga, is renowned wet occurred; clear sunshine is the
for fertility, and was studded with rule. The mean winter temperature
hamlets filled with industrious Mo from 8 to 10 A.M. ranges from 50. to 51.
riscoes, but the Spaniards, by expell Patients will, of course, consult Dr. '
ing these admirable agriculturists, Francis, and read his chapter x. The
have converted an Eden into a desert. Topografica Medica of Vicente 1l[artz'nez '
Malaga lies beyond, girt with hills, 3/ Montes, 4to., Malaga, 1852, embraces
and basking at their base on its sunny e_very detail. _Winter, in our accepta
bay. Crossing the GIL/lLZ(‘ll0)'C6, is a tion of the thing, here is almost un
combined aqueduct and viaduct, which known: _open to the S. and sea, the
was destined to bring water from the sunny city is sheltered from the N.
:S'ierra of J1zjas, and serve also as a road. and E.t2y_the mountains. Well may
Begun in 1726 by Geronimo Solis, e poe S1ng—
after plans of Toribio Martinez de la Malnga la hechicera,
Vega, the funds, raised by a tax on La del eternal primavera,
oil and wine, were first jobbed by the gr: que bafia dulce El mar
directors, and in 1742 the residue was ntre jasmin y azn ar.
seized by the needy government. Nor is Malaga itself the only asylum
Malaga: Inns——At the hotel of the for the invalid, as in the pleasant vil
Alameda, built on it and kept by Mr. lage of Torrcmolinos, distant about 2
Hodson, charges 2 dollars a day, and L., Don Nicolas Parody, who speaks
at the Victoria recently erected near English, has recently fitted up a very
it, and managed by Mr. Frank, English fine /zucwnda, with every sort of accom
comforts may be enjoyed under an modation for those sent abroad for the
Andalucian climate. Mr. Hodson keeps sakfi of ltealth. _ ;I1‘1his Kiillflé itntlfllllillnyi;
a shop, “ a store,” near his hotel, where in ie c1 y s neig our oo 1S u o
British beer, soda water, &c., may be sun, flower, and fruit. Ainong the
had;_he also acts as an agent in send prettiest casas de recreo are those of
ing wines, &c. to England. For sum the widow of the Prussian consul and
mer, the Oriente, kept by a Swiss, of the Conde de Villacazar. ,
will be found very cool and reason The province of lllrzluga -— pop.
able. The Fonda de la Drmza, Pl/IZLI 440,0UO—and one of the richest in
dc los Jluros, kept by Matias Balcon, Spain is indebted to nature for a fer
a worthy civil G-allician, who speaks tile soil, and to the sea for an outlet ;
English, is very good and reasonable; the range of hills abound in metals and
terms 5 pesetas a-day. There is a marbles in mincralwaters and streams,
good table d’/zétc at 3 and 5 o’clock; while tlie botany is of eveiy zone. The
284 , nourr. 24.—MALAGA. ' Sect. III.
stalactical caverns are no less nume (from the perchas of the fishermen)
rous than curious. One glance over and La Tri/u'dru7.. This river never
the details of Madoz, xi. 39, is enough had a name of its own. Maluchaaque
to show how a Buckland is desidc fl/unen ur-bis cum oognornine (Fest. Av,
rated to explore the untrodden caverns dc Or. Mar. 431). It is a mere brook
of Ardalez, Benitez, Lus Tnjruws, Tia in summer, but a devastating torrent
Lcal, Los Cmatales, &c. Hasten there, in winter. It is the bane and anti
ye men of the vasculum and hammer. dote of the city : the deposits block up
In summer it must be remembered the harbour, While, like an Alpheus,
that the climate of Malaga is almost it cleanses away with its freslies the
tropical. In the botanical garden the accumulations of plague-engendering
Ker-mes cochenilla is reared on the filth to which the inhabitants are
Cactus ojmntiw; the coifee, cocoa, strangely indifferent; albeit, with their
cotton-plants, and the sugar-cane port, their prosperity must depart.
thrive here. As a mercantile resid The schemes for improving this tor
ence, the town is agreeable. The better rent-bed by dykcs, channels, &c., are
classes are well ofi‘, gay, and hospit infinite. The sea meantime recedes;
able; the ladies are pretty, sprightly, thus the old Moorish quay is now in
and fascinating. Mr. Mark, the Eng the town,and the Alameda was covered
lish consul, is full of attentions and with water last century.
civilities to his countrymen, as his Phoenician Malaga, like Cadiz, is
father was before him. Dr. Shortlifi" of immemorial antiquity, and the
is _a resident English physician. A judgment shown in the selection of site
chaplain performs full service at ll is evidenced by a commercial existence
and 4, in a room fitted up at the con and prosperity of 3000 years. The
Isulate. name is taken either from Melech, King‘s
For local history,&c., consultMalaga, town, or from Melach, the salt-fish, the
su Fundaciun, Martin de Roa, 4to. Mal. lflflxfilfll of Strabo, those anchovies
1 622; Conversaciones illalagzzefias, Cecilio
and boquerones for which, then as
Garcia de la Lefia, 4vols. Mal. l789;the now, it is celebrated. Thus Sidon
real author was one Cristobal Medina has been derived from seid, salt-fish.
Conde, a notorious inventor of frauds. Humboldt, however, considers Malaca
The new and notcompleted Historia, to be a pure Iberian name—MaZ, a
&c., by lldefonso Marzo, bids fair to be hill, with carra, the termination of
the best. locality (Bergseite). Malaga, like
Malaga is the capital of its province, Cadiz, a city of selfish merchants, _
the residence of the superior autho deserted Tyre for rising Carthage,
rities, Gcfe or (lobe:-nador, and bishop, and then deserted Carthage for rising
suffragan to Granada: pop. 80,000, Rome. Having made termswith Scipio,
and increasing. It has a cathedral, a it became a municipium, and was em
cast: dc espositos, hospitals, a naval bellished with an amphitheatre, part
college; a decent theatre, built by of which was laid open in digging the
Masonesqui; a casino, reading-room, foundations of the Convento de la Paz,
excellent baths; a plaza do ioros, con and reburied, as usual.
structed ont of a Franciscan convent; Malaga, ll[ala/ca/1, was a city so
a fine quay, pier, and Alameda; a much after the Moor’s own heart, that
public bank is talked about. The coat Rasis describes it as a paradise on
of arms are the 2 tutelar martyrs, San earth. It was taken by Ferdinand
Cyriaco and Santa Paula, with the Aug. 18, 1487, after a dreadful siege;
castles of Alcazaba and Gibralfaro, and and on the anniversary, at 3 o’clock
the Tunto Manta of Ferdinand for a P.M., the great cathedral bell is struck
motto. 3 times. The king broke every pledge,
flfalaga is the chief port of Gra and celebrated his triumph with con
nada; the position is admirable; thefiscations and autos de fe. See Pulgar,
Gwzdalmed-ma, or “ river of the city,”
Chr. dc los Reyes, ch. xciv. et seq.
divides it from the suburbs Perchel The manes of the murdered Moors
Ronda dr Granada. ROUTE 2-1.-—-—MALAGA—LA CAVA. 285
were avenged by Sebastiani, who en into Spain, a questionable story at
tered Feb. 5, 1810. The Malaga junta, best; at all events La Cam is a cor
after the rout of Ocafia, made no sort of ruption of Alcaba, the descent; and
preparation ; they did not even remove Cava herself is nothing but Cahba,
their stores or artillery; while Col. which in Arabic signifies a lewd
Abello, who commanded here,setan ex woman, a “ curse,” whence the old
ample to the junta of taking to their Spanish phrase Caz,-asa gavczsa; akin
heels at the first sight of the French to which is gClbClC/IO, miscreant, the
advance. The city was then sacked, Spanish term for a Frenchman, aword
and Sebastiani “ qui faisait bien ses derived as some say from a dress, ga
affaires,” exacted 12 million reals: imch. worn by them. That Don Julian
See for details of his bloodshed, lust, or Elyano assisted the Moorish inva
and rapine, Toreno xi. and Schepeler sion is certain (see p. 280), but the
ii. 534. name of this Helen, his daughter, is
The Zllalagueflos again made no re never mentioned, except in later bal
sistance to the French in 1823; and lads and sayings. Ag! de Espufia per
the invaders, under Ct. Loveredo, dida por 1m gusto y por la Cuva.
drew out on the Alameda the cart The Moorish Amrazana, or dock
ridges which they had loaded at the yard, is now in the town, from the
Bidasoa, and threw them in the faces sea’s receding. A beautiful marble
of the patriots, their promenade mili horse-shoe arch remains: this has
taire being concluded ; Malaga shared been disfigured by a paltry shed, and
with Lugo, May 20, 1843, in taking narrowly escaped being pulled down
the lead in the Espartero pronuncia in 1833; and there is talk now of
micnto : to pronounce is rather popular the “ necessity of new improvement.”
here; as, whenever one of these patri The Spaniard in authority has small
otic declarations takes place, authority feeling for Moorish art, which he con
is at an end, and everybody robs the siders a remnant of a barbarian infidel
public till, and smuggles in cigars and and invader; nay, he resents the ad
cottons for their private good. miration of foreigners, because it im
Malaga, being, as it was from its plies inferiority in himself.
very beginning, a purely commercial The ch. of Santiago was a mosque;
city, and without arts or letters, is the brick tower and some azulojos yet
soon seen. Taste is here confined to remain. The grand mosque was pulled
raisins and sweet wine. A couple of down to make room for the mixed
days will more than suflice to the tra Corinthian cathedral, which was be
veller. From the summit of the hills gun in 1538, and only finished in 1719.
Santa Ritaz 3 L., or Potron 2 L. The The original design, by Diego de Siloe,
panorama of sea and land is magnifi was departed from by each succeeding
cent. The best points of view of the city architect. The facade stands between
are from the mole-head,the convent, Lu 2 towers; one estd por acabar, and the
Trinidad, and the noble Moorish castle, other is drawn out like a telescope,
which was built in 1279, at once a with a pepper-box dome, some 350
palace and a fortress. The lower por ft. high, and commanding a glorious
tion is callcd the Alcazaba, Al Kas view: ascend it. Opposite the Santa
saba/z, Arabice the heart, the centre. Tomas is one of the fine old Gothic
It is connected with the upper keep, doors, with curious azulejo. The in
the Gibalfaro, the “ hill of the terior is a failure. A heavy cornice
Pharos.” Observe a fine Moorish is supported by grouped fluted Corin
horse-shoe gateway, incongruously or thian pillars, placed back to back on
namented with old Roman columns ill-proportioned pedestals. Observe the
and modern Roman Catholic images. red marble pulpit. The altar mayor,
La Puerta dc la Cuva is connected by designed by Alonso Cano, is light and
the vulgar with La Cava, Count Ju open. Observe a “ Concepcion," attri
lian’s daughter, whose violation by buted to Mateo Cerezo, but it is either
Don Roderick introduced the Moors by Valdes Leal or some second-rate
286 aours 24.—MA1..ieA_—ro1uuJos. Sect. III.
Sevillano; B. “Virgin and Child,” Moreno, who began his career at the
Morales, is doubtful: the “Virgin,” massacres of the French in Valencia,
or “ /lludon-1 del llosario,” by Cano, is 1808, lured Torrijos into the trap,
good. The Silleria del Coro was carved corresponding with him under ‘the
in 1658 b Pedro de Mena, a pupil of name of Viriutzts, and pretending also
Cano. he facade of the Sagrario, to be discontented ; rewarded by being
although illtreated, is in good early made Captain-General of Granada by
Gothic. The bishop’s palace is near Ferdinand VII., he was disgraced by
the cathedral. Christina in I832, when she wished
Malaga is exposed to winds from to make for herself a liberal party.
the E. The mole which protects the He then became a Carlist, and was
shipping was built in 1588: walk to murdered at Urdax (see Index) by his
the end for the view, especially from soldiers, after the traitorous conven
the summit of the new lighthouse. tion of Maroto at Vergara. Nee lex
The large white custom-house build est justior ulla, quam necis artifices
ing in the foreground, all roof and artc perire sua. For the details of all
window, was destined for the LOIL]-It, this Punic and Iberian treachery and
or exchange. The Alameda is deli bloodshed, see Boyd Papers, printed
cious: the houses on it are the best in by the I-louse of Commons, 4th July,
Malaga; somewhat too sunny by day, 1834.
the evening gas-lit promenade is most Visit the Protestant burial-ground,
fashionable; and here will be seen Lus not because it is a pleasant “ bourn
Jlltzlrzyaefms, who are “ may /ul<¢gucfuzs,” from whence no traveller returns,” but
very bewitching. The walk is full of as being the first site permitted here in
flowers and water. The marble foun our times for the repose of our hereti
tain, with groups of female figures cal carcases, which used to be buried
somewhat too undressed for Spanish in the sea-sands like those of dead
propriety, was made at Genoa, and dogs, and beyond the low-water mark ;
given by that republic to Charles V. nay even this concession ofiended
On the beach, in the Plug/as de Sun orthodox Spanish fishermen, who fear
Andres, below the Carmen convent, ing that the soles might become in
where a spinning-factory now rises, fected, took the bodies up in the
Torrijos and some 50 of his confede night and cast them into the deep to
rates were shot by General Moreno, feed sharks withal. This cemetery,
Dec. 11, 1831, as rebels and traitors; which lies outside the town to the E.,
now, in the changes and chances of is the work of .Mr. Mark, father of
Spain, they are honoured as martyrs the present consul, who planted and
of liberty, and a monument has re enclosed the ground, and all travel
cently been erected in the plaza del lers who contemplate dying in Malaga,
Riego, with their names and laurel and are curious about their Christian
crowns. They were put to death burial, must be thankful for this pros
without even the form of trial; and as pect of comfortable lying at last. (See
this course in Spain was quite a matter for cemetery details ‘ Gatherings,
of course, the affair created little sensa p. 252.’)
tion beyond just the immediatc neigh Malaga, besides legitimate traflic,
bourhood, and would forthwith have carries on great smuggling with Gib
been forgotten among other trea raltar and Marseilles, by which the
cheries, bloodsheddings, and Cosas de authorities, especially commissioners
Espmia, had not an Englishman, Mr. of customs and preventive officers, are
Boyd, suffered among them; his case said to get rich; the steamers facili
was taken up by the London press, who
tate this contraband, and the establish
ment of cotton manufactories near the
reasoned remarkably well, barring the
slight mistake of confounding Spanish
beach is very convenient, as Manchester
law with English; his was the first goods sometimes pass for genuine
body interred in the new Protestant Spanish.
burial-ground. The man of blood, Malaga is more renowned for wine
Ronda & Granada. ROUTE 24.—MAI.AGA—W]lN'F_S. 287
and fruit than literature or fine arts; !heights which slope down to the sea.
the chief, if art it can be called, is the The richest are called Las Lagrimas,
making painted terra-cotta images of like the Lacrymw Christi of Naples,
Jllrrjos, Ctmtrabandistas, and local cos-~ and are the ruby tears which drop
tume. Those of Leon are excellent; he from the grape without pressure. The
is dead, but the shop goes on behind making the dry wines was first intro
the Cafe’ de la Loba, Calla Santa Lucia. duced by an Englishman named Mur
Jose Cubero may also be recommended. phy; they are much more agreeable
The clay is very pliable, and does not and wholesome than the vile San Lucar
crack in baking. It is found near the stuff. A butt is worth about 10!. About
convent La Victoria. Excellent alcar 40,000 are made, of which 30,000 are
razas, porous drinking-cups, are also sent to America and England, and
made of it. This convent deserves a sold as “ genuine pale sherry.” The
visit; it was so called because it was other exports are oil, figs, orange-peel
the site of the royal head -quarters for making caracoa, almonds, and
during the siege of Malaga. It is open raisins; for the latter the Muscatel and
on Sundays and every morning. Ob Uca larga grapes are used, and these
serve the tomb of the Conde de Buena . Bacchus-beloved hills are so extensive
Vista and his wife. To the rt. of the as to form one vineyard down to
high altar is the banner of Ferdinand, Adra. The green grape is exported
and to the l. the red ensign of the to England in jars, in the exact
Moor—curious relics, as the former amphorae seen at Pompeii; these
was the one actually hoisted on the are the Ollarcs of Martial (vii. 20).
Torre del Homenaje at the city’s sur The raisins, so common in Palestine
render. (1 Sam. xxv. 18; xxx. 12), were first
Mal-zga, since the death of Ferdinand made here by the Phoenicians, and
VII., has been much changed and im after a lapse of many thousand years
proved, and is. now a flourishing sea are still the finest of Spain. A million
port, trading with every quarter of the boxes are annually exported; those
globe. I1-on-foundries, soap-fabrics anxious to see the process may visit
and cotton-mills, are fast rising. The the store of Mr. Clements, one of the
chief impulse to all this was given greatest of the merchants in this line.
by the late energetic and enterprising The raisins are prepared by cutting the
Manuel Agustin de Heredia. The tall stalk partly through, and letting the
smoking chimnies of his new Uonstnncia grape dry in the sun. The finest are
look odd under this azure sky, trans the “ Muscatels,” and the next the
ported as it were from Lancashire, “ Blooms ;” these are cured in the
for their sooty sins. The fear is that same way, being only varieties of
the Malagenians, whose true wealth grapes. The commoner sorts are called
lies in the produce of the sea, and of Lari/ls, from being dipped in a ley
the earth’s surface, may waste their made of burnt vine-tendrils. The late
industry in pursuit of shadows. Wine grapes, “ quae de tardis servantur viti
and fruit are their real staples, not bus uvaa” (Mart. i. 44), are, as in
cotton bales and pigs of iron, the Martial’s time, hung up in festoons in
produce of Manchester and Birming the cottages of the peasants, and thence
ham. The mania and mistake, just are called Colgadcras. The Spaniards
now, is to wish to make for themselves have also preserved the unchanged Ro
wares, bad and dear, in preference to man name for Raisin, Pasa. Uva passa
importing them good and cheap. Nay, pcnsziis (Plant. ‘ Pain.’ i. 2. 99). The
even the irnmemorial hereditary Salsa vineyards in the wine-making districts
menta are passing away, since these of Spain are seldom enclosed with any
innovations. ‘
fence ; they are left open to the passer
The sweet Muscatel wines of Malaga by : when the grapes begin to ripen, in
are well known ; they are the “ moun those fields near a roadside temporary
tains” of our ancestors, and grow for sheds and awnings are run up, or huts
leagues and leagues on the vine-clad built with reeds and boughs, in which
288 noun: 25.—MALAGA T0 GRANADA. Sect. II I.
the Vifiaclero, a watchman, is placed, Malaya communicates with Mar
who creeps in and out with his gun. seilles and the Eastern coast of Spain
These are the Oriental “ Booths which by means of a regular service of in
the keeper maketh,” Job xxvii. 18: difierent steamers; they also go west
the “ lodges in a garden ofcuc.nmbers,” ward to Cadiz; Heredia established
Isa. i. 8. The guard rushes out like a another line, which is, or was, to run
fierce dog at all who pick and steal, backwards and forwards to Bilbao; in
and is the subject of vast abuse from land, new roads are contemplated be
the bafiied Wayfaring Spaniards, who tween Cordova and Granada. Mean
swear that the grapes are sour, and he while there are 2 roads from Malaga
is a pmietero; nor is the guardian slow to Granada: the first, which is very
in returning his cornudus and other bad and circuitous, is by Loja, 12 L.;
ancient and classical compliments; but it takes 14 or 15 h. to ride. The Tor
Niiias y viiias son malas (16 guardar; y cules and stony lusi-naturze will in
miedo guurda la viila y no el viiiudero. terest the geologist. This is performed
Those who wish to see all the glory of by a diligence, which starts from the
grapes should be here during the Alameda hotel; the first portion is very
Bendeja—vintage—in the autumn. hilly and lonely ; on ascending to the
Another fruit abounds at Malaga, the Fuente de la Raina (taste the water) the
Batata, or sweet potato, the Convol views over Malaga are glorious. After
vulus Batatas of Linnaeus, which was Colman/tr, 4 L., occur several bad ventas;
introduced from the S. Americas; it is that del Pobre is worthy of its name;
used as a sweetmeat, and is sold ready take, therefore, from Malaga a well
boiled in the streets. Among eatables filled basket. Passing the Puerto and
may be mentioned a small fish, called descending to the Vonta cle Aluzores,
Jcmqueta, something like white bait. Loja is reached, where the coach stops
Generally speaking the meat is bad in an hour or so. See for Loja p. 255.
Malaga; agriculture being as much
neglected here as florieulture. The ROUTE 25.—-l\lALAGA 'r0 GRANADA,
fish is excellent—that fattens itself BY ALHAMA.
while cattle require the care of man.
The botanist may consult the V01/a_//e Velez Malaga . . . . 5
Viiiuela . . . . . . 2 . 7
Bot/mique. Boissier, 1837 ; and he Albania . . . . . - 4 ll
should visit a nopal garden--where Caciu . . . . . . 2 13
the cochineal coccus cacti is reared on La Mala . . . 2 I5
Granada . . . 3 18
the Opuntia Coceinellifera: the period
of gathering the insect is in May. This is by far the most interesting
About 7 L. N.E. of Malaga are the route, but it must be ridden. Attend to
celebrated mineral baths of Carratracu. the provend; you can hire mules and
The best accommodations are at the horses at La lhmzas, which generally
Casa Donoy, and the Purudor do Jrum are charged 12 dollars each for the
Arcos. The medical director, Dr. journey to Granada and back; you
Monja, is the Dr. Granville of the lo can engage one Manuel Ramos on the
cality. The waters are sulphurettcd hytour round Granada, Ronda, to Gib
drogen of the temperature of 14° Reau raltar; or Pedro Perez, who is well
mur; the source is constant and spoken of; at all events, fill the bota
abundant. They are much frequented and basket, for the road is stony and
from June 20 to Sept. 20. The large open hungry. A well-girt horseman, by
tanks, albercus, in which the patients leaving Jlalzzga at 4% A.M., may reach
bathe, are a disgrace to decency and Velez Malaya at 91}, where he may
civilization. Cosus ale Ifspafia. (See breakfast and bait the gcmado. It will
Madoz, v. 615.) Near this place and take about 7 h. to arrive at Alhama,
H1/-d-1les is a singular cavern, dis-4 where sleep; by leaving Alhrzma at 6
covered in 1821, the glittering stalac A.1\I., and allowing half an hour to see
tites and spars of which, if visited by the baths, Granada may be reached
torch-light, produce a magical effect. between 2 and 3 in the afternoon.
Ronda 5' Granada. nourr. 25.—ALHAMA. 289
Those who prefer sleeping at Velez mental plate used by him after this
Malaga may leave Malaga in the dili victory. The Hermitage San Sebastian
gence, which gets there in about 4 h. ; was founded in 1489 by Ferdinand, in
and start early for Granada the next honour of the self-sacrificing Sebas
morning, as 14 h. will be required. tian Pelao, who saved the king from
The road to Velez M(ll1l}]d is good the spear of an infidel by placing him
and has its diligence. The sea and self between.
the Atalaya towers lie to the rt., the Velez Mrzla_r]a was the birthplace of
vine-clad mountains to the l. Velez Joaquin Blake, the friend of Mahy,
Malaya, Menoba, or Sex Sesta, rises, Ballesteros, and of all opposed to the
with spires and fortress, on a gentle Duke and the English alliance: he
eminence over the Rubito, pop. 14,000. was the loser of more pitched battles
Posuda de los Caballeros: Observe the (“ mas de cien,” says his worthy eulo
towers of the two parroquias. N.B. gist Maldonado) than any man in
Taste the Miel de Cam, or sugar-cane ancient or modern history, Spanish
honey; for local history consult included. He was the son of a rebel
‘Histori-.z y Grandezas de Belez,’ Fran Irish shopkeeper, and began life as a
cisco de Vedmar, Granada, 4t0., lecturer in a military school on the
1652. The climate is delicious. The art of war: the poor pedant, learned
martlets, thick as motes in the sun in theory, never mastered its practice,
beam, approve the sweet-wooing breath and to his “ ignorance in his profes
of Heaven. It is in the heart of a sion” the Duke ascribed his last feat,
land overflowing with oil and wine; the loss of Valencia; but his defeats
here is the palm without the desert, never made him unpopular with Spa
the sugar-cane without the slave. The niards, who admired his courage, and
spires and convents cluster around the still more his Espaiiolismo and pr12‘rl
ruins of a rock-built Moorish castle; otismo, in preferring being routed him
above rise the lordly barren mountains self, rather than permitting better men,
de Tejmila, which look coldly down on because foreigners, to lead Spaniards to
the industry of the humble plain. victory.
The water-courses, which have peeled This “ child in the art of war” was
the sierras, deposit the soil and detritus no relation of Robert Blake, the great
in the valleys of Velez, and the com admiral of Cromwell, who at the age
bination of moisture under a tropical of fifty passed from the army into
sun produces the batata, indigo, and naval command, and always was vic
sugar-cane. The latter was brought torious; he was the master and terror
here from Sicily by the Carthaginians. of the Mediterranean. He, in 1654,
The ancients did not understand the summoned the viceroy of Malaga to
processes of crystallization and re surrender to him a priest at whose
fining; the canes were sold in the instigation the mob had risen upon
streets (Lucan. iii. 237) just as they some English sailors during a religious
now are in Andalucia; the Moors intro pageant. The governor trembled and
duced the cultivation. Ebn-el-Awam, complied. Blake received the culprit,
writing in 1140, quotes from an earlier who expected death, with great kind
Arabian author the methods of culture. ness, and sent him back with a mes
The sugar-cane was first sent to His sage that he would prevent his sailors’
paniola from these parts in 1506. It misbehaviour for the future, “but
is still cultivated about the town, and that no one should presume to punish
sugar made here. Englishmen except himself.”
The town was taken from the Moors The road now becomes infamous,
by Ferdinand el Cutolico in person, who 2 L. to Vz'1'iuela are pleasant; nature
himself here killed a Moor, with which here is fruity and verdurous. It is
he was so pleased that he gave the the home of Pomona and Flora.
city for its arms his own figure on Passing ruined Zulea, the mountains
horseback spearing an infidel. In the become steep and barren. Alhama is
Encarnacion is preserved the sacra so called from the baths, Al-Hammdm
Spain.—I. o
290 nourn 2-5.—-BATHS or ALHAMA. Sect. III.
(whence our Hummums in Covent hama. Matters are, however; somewhat
Garden). The number of these which mended lately.
existed in the time of the cleanly Alhama continues to bear for its
Romans and Moors is evidenced by arms a castle with two keys, emblem
the frequent recurrence of places called atic of its being one of the keys of
caldas, calidas, hot springs, and Al Granada. It was the Astigis Juliensis
harms. The town, wild and pictur of the Romans. In the Moorish period
esque, is the Ronda of these alpine it was much frequented for the baths
districts, and is perched on the edge (which can be visited next day when
of an awful rent in the hills round riding past them); now it is a picture
which the river Marchan sweeps, and of decay. The traveller may look at
backed by its own sierra, in which the aqueduct on the Plaza, peep over
the Tejwh rises B000 ft. above the the tnjo, pass on to the church, with
sea. It was the land-key of Granada, its single tower, and thence under an
and its romantic capture, Feb. 28, archway by the miserable prison, from
1482, by the Ms. of Cadiz, spread con whose lofty grated windows the
sternation into the Alhambra, and stranger is howled at by wretches in
paved the way for the final conquest whose eye is famine, and on whose
of Granada. The well-"known plain countenance is guilt and oppression:
tive ballad commencing “Ay! dc mi the inmates let down by long strings
Al/zmncll" (which Byron translated baskets to receive rare donations of
“ Woe is me Alhama!” but it should food, alms, and occasionally files, false
be “Alas! for my Alhamal”) ex keys, and implements fox-escape, as used
pressed the natioual lamentation of to be done in England. Compare our
the Moors. Consult for historical facts ‘ Spectator,’ No. 82. Passing the arch
Pulgar, ‘ C/zronica Je los Reyes,’ iii. 2. at the head of a staircase which leads
The place was sacked by the French, into the church is a most picturesque
Feb. 2, 1810, when the clergy and house in which many varieties of ar
notables were butchered (Madoz, i. chitectural style are introduced in
599). juxtaposition. There are the Gothic
Prudent travellers will put up for windows of the fifteenth century, the
the night at a private house on the peculiar “ball” ornament so frequent
Plaza, known to Rlzmos and experi in Toledo; there are the projecting
enced muleteers, by the name of ornaments such as occur at Salamanca
La Casa de los Caballeros, the and Guadalajara, with an A1-ragonese
Gentlemen’s house: it is clean and character of solidity, all combined in
free from vermin, but the larder is this singular facade; many of the
empty. As for the regular posada, houses of Alhama are casas solares, or
albeit ycleped Lu Grande, it is truly the family mansions granted to those
iniquitous: diminutive indeed are the who assisted at the conquest. The
accommodations, colossal the incon stone of which they are built is much
veniences; but this is a common mis corroded. The armorial bearings over
nomer en lrls COSIJS do Espafia. Thus the portals contrast with the misery
Philip IV. Was called El Grande, under in-doors, and pride is coupled with
whose fatal rule Spain crumbled into poverty. The population is clad in
nothing, when, like a ditch, he became brown like that of La Mancha, for the
greater in proportion as more land gay Andaluz Majo has disappeared.
was taken away. All who are wise The view of the tajo from the con
will bring from Malaga a good ham vent is striking. Below tears the
per of eatables, a bota of wine, and foaming Marchan, winding through
some cigars, for, however devoid of ravines and rocky pinnacles. The
creature-comforts this grand hotel, whole scene, Ronda on a smaller scale,
there is a grand supply of creeping is made for the painter; on the ledges
creatures, and the traveller runs a risk of the beetling clifi's picturesque houses
of bidding adieu to sleep, and passing topple, with trellised vines and hang
the night exclaiming, Ayl de mi Al ing gardens, while below boil the
Ronda =5" Granada. noun: 25.—KINGDOM or summon. 291
streams of water-mills and cascades. bably was erected. The Moorish bath,
Alhama is seen to best advantage at el Bafio fuerte, so called from the heat
its fair-time, Sept. 8. and strength of the waters, as it is
The road to Granada descends from nearer their source, is well preserved
Alhama. Continuing up the bed of the and very picturesque, with its emerald
river, and passing a picturesque mill, pool and spiry clouds of steam. A
to the 1., at a short distance, are the new bath for one person has recently
mineral baths. The waters issue out been constructed, in a parallelogram
of a dip in the hills, in that sort of form, with steps to descend into it;
position so common to warm volcanic placed between‘ the two older ones.
springs. They are strongly impreg The road reascends, soon to descend
nated with nit/-ogen gjas,-as was first by a deep gorge to the wretched village
ascertained by Dr. Daubeny (see also of Cucin, which is placed at the bottom
- Madoz, i. 593); considered to be bene of a funnel. Reascending it continues
ficial for dyspepsia and rheumatism, to the poor Venta de Huelmo, and
they are frequented in spring and thence to L/1 Maid, with its salt-pans,
autumn. The bath called el Iimio dc Arabice Malsiha; about 2 m. on'it
hi ]f6_!/mt is circular, has a dome over enters the Vega of Granada, which is
it like the Pantheon at Rome, a round spread out like a green carpet below
opening to the sky, and quite in the the towering Sierra Nevada, now seen
style of the Romans, by whom it pro in all its alpine majesty. '

Z~

KI.\'ono:vI or GRANADA.

THE kingdom of Granada is the most eastern of “Los Cuatro Remus.” The
length from E. to W.S.W. is about 240 miles; its breadth varies from 30 to
80. The area contains about 9000 square m., and the population reaches a
million. It consists of mountains, plains, “ Vegas” (Bek:£h,Arabice,awatered
valley between hills), and a maritime strip. The Sierra Nevada, with its
“ diadem of snow,” rises nearly 13,000 ft. above the level of the sea, which
washes its S. slopes. Thus, under a latitude of 37°, eternal snow and the
blood-heat of Africa are combined; hence every variety of production, from
the hardiest lichen to the cotton-plant and sugar-cane. This kingdom, being
the last home _0f the Moors, who fled hither from the Christian advance,
became the epitome of their various arts, commerce, and agriculture, of which
none have survived, save the latter; and that, albeit degenerated, still forms
the wealth of the province, which teems with corn and wine, oil, silk, and
fruit. The snowy range is a perpetual Alembic of fertilising water, which is
commensurate with the heats; as the hotter the weather the greater is the
melting. The water is wealth, for the soil of the plains, although light,
becomes highly productive under combined heat and moisture. The hemp is
the finest in the world, and the succession of the crops never ceases. The line
of irrigation, like a Rubicon, divides the desert from a paradise, while all within‘
its influence is green and fruitful, all beyond it is barren and taw"ny——a feature
frequent in this Land of Contrasts. In objects of interest Granada, and there is
attraction in the very name, contains the Alhambra. The alpine range of the
Alpujarras, grand beyond conception, is the Switzerland of Spain ; nor can
anything be more sunny and Mediterranean than the littoral districts. _
This mountain range pregnant with interest to the artist, the botanist,
and geologist, abounds with minerals and beautiful marbles. VVell, there
fore, might thc Moors consider this favoured region to be a portion of heaven
fallen on the earth. Few parts of the Peninsula present a sadder contrast
between the past and the present. Under the Moors Granada was rich, bril
liant, learned, industrious, and gallant, now it is poor, dull, ignorant, indolent,
0 2
292 nonrn 25.—n1sToRY or GRANADA. Sect. III.
and dastardly. The Spaniards, have, indeed, laboured hard to neutralise the
gifts of a lavish nature, and to dwarf this once proud capital down"to a para
lysed provincial town. The Granadan native partakes more of the Mnrcian
than the Andalusian, and has little in common with the Moor, Whose domi
nion, nevertheless, lasted longer here than elsewhere in the Peninsula. The
best time to visit Granada, and make excursions in the mountains, is from
June to October.
_ The name Granada is a corruption from .Karna'tta/1, the ancient fortress of
Phmnician origin. The prefix car occurs in many “ cities” built on an emi
nence, c, g. Carthago, Carteia, Carmona, Cartama. Nuta has been interpreted
by some as “stranger,” the “city of the stranger,” of “pilgrims” (Casiri,
‘_Bib. Esc.’ ii. 247), and by others as the name of a local goddess. The town
Karmittuh, at the Moorish invasion, was given by one of Tarik’s lieutenants to
the “ Jews,” and hence was called “ Karnattah-al-Yahood.” It occupied the
site of the present “ Torres Bermejas,” and ranged above the “ Campo del Prin
cipe,” being quite distinct from Illiberis, with which it has since been con
founded.’ This Illiberis, which signifies in Basque the “ new city ” (Nea
polis, Newtown, Neustadt, Villanueva), was built on the Sierra Elvira.
When the Umeyyah kalifate was broken up, Illiberis was seized by a Berber
chief, whose nephew, Habfis Ibn Makesen, in 1019, removed his residence to
the stronger position of Karnattah, and then as usual destroyed the older town.
“ Granada la Viejrz,” employing the Phcenician and Roman remains as a quarry
for his new buildings. The conquests of Jaime I. in Valencia, and of St.
Ferdinand in Andalucia, ruinous elsewhere to the Moorish cause, created the
prosperity of Granada, which became the asylum of every Moslem refugee
from all other parts of Spain. The remnant of the Moors now fled to the
rocky fastnesses of the Alpujarras before the triumphant cross, as the Goths
had retired to the Asturias before the conquering crescent. Ibnu-l-ahmar,
“ the red man,” the successful upstart ruler of Jaen, and reluctant vassal of
St. Ferdinand, was the real founder of this kingdom. He was a prince eminent
in every respect, and his talents (obt. 1273) were inherited by his two suc
cessors. _ Then was erected the Alhambra, the fortress palace, which Moors
have delighted to adorn, and Spaniards to disfigure. The death of St. Ferdi
nand was the life to the infant monarchy of Granada, for his heir, Alonso,
catching at shadows lost real substances, and wasted the gold of Spain, in his
foolish ambition to become Emperor of Germany. The civil wars which
clouded his later years, and weakened his successors, gave time to the Moorish
kingdom to grow strong, as the Christians turned against each other those
arms which might better have been employed against the common enemy, the
infidel.
Granada, which under the Moors contained half a million souls, was most
flourishing. The date of its ruin is Jan. 2, 1492, when the banner of Castile ‘
first floated on the towers of the Alhambra. Internal dissensions, by which
lbnu-l-ahmar was enabled to found the kingdom, led to its decline and ruin ;
and as Cam prepared the ruin of the Gothic monarchy,and opened the throne
to the Moors, so a Christian woman now occasioned the Moslem downfall.
Her name was Isabel de Solis, on whom Martinez de la Rosa wrote a poor
novel. She was the daughter of the governor of Martos, and, being taken pri
soner by the Moors, became the favourite wife of Abii-l-hasan, king of
Granada. Her Moorish appellation is Zoraya, “Morning Star,” in allusion
to her surpassing beauty, on account of which ’Ayeshah, another wife and
cousin of Abii-l-hasan, became jealous of her rival, and the court was divided
into two parties. The Zegris (Thegrim, the people who came from T/zegr or
Arragon) espoused her faction, and the Abcncerrages, the Beni Cerraj (the
children of the saddle, or palace), that of Zorayah. In June, 1482, Abxi-Abdillah,
son of ’Ayeshah, 19th king, dethroned his father. His name was corrupted
_~

Rondo 5- Granada. ROUTE 25.-coxoursr or GRANADA. 293


by Spaniards into Boabdila, while the Moors also called -him As-Sughir, the
younger—the less (whence the Spanish term, el Rey chico), to distinguish him
from Abii-l-hasan, his father, and often called el Zogoibi, the unfortunate. Thus
the Moorish house was divided against itself, just when Castile and Arragon
were united under Ferdinand and Isabella. On the Rey cIn'co’s being taken pri.
soner at Lucena in 1483, the old king returned, and, being blind, abdicated in
favour of his brother, Mohamed XII., called Az-zag/ml, the valiant. Boabdil now
became a vassal of Ferdinand, and at length, after along siege, surrendered
himself and his kingdom. According to Arabian authors, he was treated
harshly; certain it is that the Spaniards violated most of the pledges and capi.
tulations. Cardinal Ximenez, deaf to the entreaties of the mild Ferdinand de
Talavera, the first archbishop of Granada, proceeded to convert men by fire
and sword, at which the Moors rebelled, and were then put down without
mercy. Again similar ill usage, in 1570, drove them to arms; again they
were crushed by John of Austria, and finally expelled, in 1610, by Philip IlI.,
as the Protestants afterwards were by Louis XIV. This great crime was then
imputed to him as a glory, and made the subject of sundry second-rate poems;
and, in fact, he was yelled on by all Spain, which thirsted for their blood and
gold; now that the ill effects of this deed are evident, it is alleged in his excuse
‘that the Moriscos, differing in blood and creed, were dangerous aliens on an ex
posed coast, and that they were always ready tojoin an invader, whether Moslem
or Christian. In addition, the example of the Moors was quoted as a precedent
against themselves; for when the Al-mu’ahidi'n, or Spanish Christians, who
continued to live among them, invited Alonso I. of Arra on to invade Granada.
in 1122, they were in consequence banished to WesternA rica (Moh. D. ii. 307).
The Moors, when free and powerful, were feared, hated, and honoured by Spa
niards, Orzballeros nun Moros; when conquered they were termed Moriscos, “little
Moors,” a diminutive which implies contempt. Va: victis! for then they were
converted, robbed, burnt, and finally banished.
The details of the conquest of Granada must be looked for in Prescott’s able
work. The efiects are less understood. The possession of the Moors, the appa
rent weakness of Spain, was in fact the secret of her strength. Then all parties,
as in their private juntas, united to pull down the holder of power, and when
that was accomplished, fell to loggerheads with each other, quarrelling for the
spoil. The struggle during the war, like a breeze upon a lake,kept fresh the
energies of the nation. Thus while the taking of Constantinople by the Turks,
which was thought by the infallible Pope to be a calamity and divine judg
ment, turned out to be a divine blessing, by the dispersion of classical lore,
the harbinger of modern knowledge, the capture of Granada, which the same
oracle pronounced to be a compensation for that infidel success, proved the
cause of the ruin of Spain. It ‘paved the way to the loss of all liberty, to
apathy, corruption,‘ and death; the mainspring which a war of eight centuries,
pro aris et focis, had kept in motion ceased to vibrate when the great end was
accomplished: a reaction ensued; a moral and physical stagnation came
over the listless conquerors. Civil and religious despotism saw and seized the
moment, so advantageous to itself, and whilst the people of Spain were giving
loose to the disarmed intoxication of success, they were shorn of their strength,
and awoke from the lascivious dream emasculated and enslaved. Castile,
like her arid, tree-stripped plains, from the lack of the nutriment of wholesome
institutions, withered away ; a curse was on her womb; shebecame incapable
of giving birth to men who should do deeds worthy to be had in remembrance,
or to authors whose works posterity would not willingly let die. Read, there
fore, in the Alhambra, the legend tales and ballad romances of the old days of
Crusade. The melancholy retrogression of a once noble nation increases the
interest of these relics of better times, which have drifted down like the spars
of a storm-wrecked battle-ship. In this contrast between former pride of place
and present nothingness, our sympathy, as we tread the lonely Alhambra, is
:29-1 nourn 25.-Boons on cannon. Sect. III.
awakened by the rellqio loci, and the more when the change is borne with
uneomplaining dignity ; for bitter, in the words of Dante, is the pang
“ ricordarsi del tempo fclice nella rniseria.” Spain, like it Porus, dethroned,
yet conscious of innate royalty from which nought can derogate, looks down
with self-respect on the changes and chances of fickle fortune. Although now
the mock of Europe, which once grew pale at her name, Granada is still the
chosen land of romance, where the present is forgotten in the past, and where,
although her harp be unstrung, and her sword pointless, the tale of Auld lung
s;/ne still re-echoes through her bernyrtled courts, where, although her laurel
leaf be sere, the many flowers which still enamel the neglected Generalife attest
that
Theonce a gardenMoriscos
persecuted smiled. were amply revenged by the French. The rout of i
Ocafia gave Granada to Sebastiani; then the strong mountain passes of Alcald
cl Real were abandoned without firing a shot by Freire, the hero of San Marcial!
and thus the invaders conquered the kingdom of Granada in fewer daysthan the
Spaniards had employed centuries. The Granadine patriots, distinguished even
in Andalucia for bragging and doing nothing, scarcely made a semblance of de
fence". Then the Alhambra was desolated, churches and palaces were pillaged,
books and MSS. made into cartridges, prisoners and monks put to death, having
been first tortured with an ingenuity of cruelty: see e. g. the execntionof Moreno.
Soult at last became jealous of Sebastiani, a colleague who collected pictures,
“ et qui (although by birth the son of a Corsican cooper) se faisait prince,”
and he procured his rival’s dismissal. Sebastiani quitted Granada June 26,
1811, “avec un grand transport, sous escorte,” “goods carefully removed,”
of all his treasures. The transports of the people were even greater: “ Comme
le 110111 dc Murat est éternisé dans Madrid, le sien l’est s Granade,” says Sche
peler, who gives the details of lust, rapine, and butchery (iii..112, 167-169),
which, with this Corsican’s collectings, are all blinked by Mons. Maison.
The local and county histories, and other works referring to the important
events and “ romance ” of Granada, are infinite. For details of the final con
quest in 1492, consult the eye-witnesses,‘ C’/trmiica de los Reyes,’ Hernando de
Pulgar, folio, Montfort, Valencia, 1780; ‘Decades,’ duo, (Elius Antonio Ne
brissensis (Antonio de Lebrija), Granada, 1550, or folio, Gran., 1545; ‘Opus
Epistolarum,’ Petri Martyris Anglerii, folio, Alcala de Henares, 1530, or the
Elzevir reprint, folio, Amsterdam, 1670; the Ocmqucst of Granada,’ by Mr.
Irving; and the ‘ History of Ferdinand and Isabella,’ by Mr. Prescott, a work
of first-rate excellence. For the “ romance,” the ‘ Guerras de Granada,’ 2
vols., a Moorish tale of ‘sixty years since,’ the prototype of the Waverley
novels, and which has gone through as many editions, written by Gil Perez
of Murcia, i_t was translated, or rather murdered, into French, by one A.
M. Sane’, Paris, 1809. The rapid and immediate deterioration of Granada
under the Spaniards is told by an eye-witness in ‘ ll Viaggio Fatto in Spagna,’
Andrea Navagiero, Vinegia, l563—a little gem. Consult the admirable
‘ Mohamedan Dynasties’ of Gayangos, not omitting his article on the
Moors in the ‘Penny Cyclopaadia; ’ for the rebellion of the Moriscos, ‘ His
toric de la Rebellion,’ Luys de Marmol Carvajal, folio, Malaga, 1600, or the
$ancl1a edition, 2 vols. 4to., Madrid, 1797, which contains a good map of Gra
nada by Felix Prieto; also ‘Las Gncrras de Granada,’ by Diego Hnrtado de
Mendoza; of this the editions are infinite. That of Mallen, Valencia, 1830, is
convenient in form. Beware of the inaccurate French works of Florian and
Chateaubriand,which can only mislead. For antiquities consult ‘Antiyiietlddcs
de Granada,’ Francisco Bermudez de Pedraza, 4to. Madrid, 1608; or the second
and improved edition, folio, Gran. 1638. There is a modern reprint of a por
tion of it, 4to., by ,Francisco Gomez Espinosa de Monteros, Gran. s. d., but
about l8l9; ‘Dl"ll0_1]0S de las Cosas Notables dc G.,’ Luys de la Cueva, 4t0.
Sevilla, 1603 ; ‘ Puscospor G.,’ Juan de Echeverria. These were first published
in 1764, in weekly papers, under the name of Josef Romero lranzo, and then
Ronda & Granada. ROUTE 25.—cnAnAnA. ‘ 295
republished in 2 vols. 4to. Gran. 1814, by Julian Maria Perez. Echeverria was
ignorant of Arabic, and not partial to truth. When our good friend, Canon
Juan Soler, asked him why he did not continue the work, he replied, “ Esta];
cansado de mentir,” I am tired of lying. ‘ Oartas del Saeristun dc 1’z'n0s, 4 vols.
duo., Gran. 1761 ; but one of the best guides for the Alhambra is ‘ Nueros Paseos,’
3 vols. dno., Simon de Argote. The third volume is very scarce: the author
never even saw it in print; it was only just put up in type when the French
evacuated the city, and, as he was an Afruncesudo, and a jackal of Sebastiani,
he fled with his patrons. Then the Granadilws, who care for none of these
things, sold the sheets for waste paper. Viaje de Espaiia, Nicolas de la Cruz,
Cadiz, 1812, vol. 12, treats of Granada; fora Geological sketch of Granada and
Murcia, Chas. Silvertop, Bvo. Loud. 1836. El Libra del Viajero en G., Miguel
Lafuente Alcantara, Svo. Gran. 1843; and by the same author, Historia de G.,
4to. 4 vols. Gran. 1843, reprinted at Paris in 1851. Manual del Artista, Jose
Gimenez Serrano, a poor duo. Gran. 184 5. _
There are several plans of the town, besides that of Felix Prieto. First,
that drawn by Ambrosio de Vico, and engraved about 1624 by Fran
cisco Heylan; next, that published in 1796 by Francisco Dalmau, which is
excellent. Of engraved works of the Alhambra, the first was ‘Anii_qiiedu(lcs
Arabes,’ 4to. s. d. about 1785; a second and folio edition was published in 1804.
The Arabic inscriptions were poorly translated by Pablo Lozano. This work was
badly copied by James Cavannah Murphy—‘ Arabian Antiquities,’ London, 1816
—a mere book-1nakingjob,and it is difiicult to believe that Murphy was even ever
on the spot. This is the book puffed with outrageous eulogiuins by Dr. Dibdin
in his ‘ Library Companicn,’ but let no man about to form a ‘Spanish’ library
ever consult that doctor. The ‘ S'0uvenirs dcr Ganade,’ ‘ Essai,’ and other works,
par M. Girault de Prangey, Paris, 1837; the ‘Erinnerungen’ of Wilhelm von
Gail, Munich; and even the splendid work of F. M. Hessemer, Berlin, 1836,
4to., fade before the English publication by Owen Jones, ‘ Plans of the Alhambra,’
London, 1842. The scrupulous architectural and artistical accuracy is rivalled
by the gorgeous execution. The value of the engravin is enhanced by a
masterly history of Granada, and by really accurate translations from the Arabic
inscriptions by Gay-angos. The substance of the former with woodcuts, and
the whole of the latter, have been thrown by Owen Jones into his Alhambra
Handbook for the Crystal Palace. The minor works, albums, lithographs,
annuals, and so forth, scarcely deserve notice, beyond the charming poetical
drawings of Roberts, which are pirated by Frenchmen in their ‘ Unlwrs
Pittoresque,’ and by M. Maison in his map, without whispering whence they
stole their sweets.
_.Z¢._._.

GRANADA.—Am0I1g‘ the l-est hotels walk, is now merely a Nereria, or cafe


are La Amistad, No. 39, Calle de San and ice-shop: other and bad posadas
- Anton, the host, Don Jose Vasquez, is are de los Tres Reyes, La Cruz (Ie
an excellent Master also in Spanish; La lllalta, San Rafael, La del Sol. The
Minerva, or Purador de las Dili}/encias Cafe’ Suisso is well spoken of. There
Generales, No.40, Acera del Darro, Car are decent Casas de Pupilos, one in the
rera del Genil, is very fair. The charges Calle de las Arandas, at the corner
are from 24 to 34 reals per day. Miguel opposite the Conde de Santa Ana:
Ramirez (Napoleon) is a capital guide another En los Tintes, and near the
for a ride round the Alpnjarras. Fonda San Espiritu, corner of Calle sin Salida ,
del Leon de Oro, No. 246, well placed another in the Plazuela de Trovar;
on the Campillo or Plaza de Bailen; another in the Calle de las Sierpes.
kept by Vigarai. La Nueva—the Fonda Good lodgings may be had near El
del Comercio, near the theatre and public Campillo, and Carr-era del Darro. The
206 ROUTE 25.-—-G RAXADA—GUI])ES. Sect. III.
artist should live up in the Alhambra, I cathedral, 23 parishes, a university,
where he will always find a lodging, Liceo, Casino, public library, Plaza de
and there is a tolerable posadn, kept by Torus, and Museo. The natives thus
Francisco Torriesta; indeed, the real parody the proud boast- of hated Se
thing, independently of the associa ville, for the two cities abhor each
tions, is to live in the Alhambra. other as in the time of the Moors :
There everything is Moorish, while “ Quien no ha vism at Grafia
below, Granada is no better than any No ha vislo ti Mia.“
other Spanish town. Again, the Cuesta
of the Alhambra is a toil to ascend, And certainly art and nature have
and those who do so come up heated combined to render Granada, with its
and tired. “ Me ro,/e siempre csmsado,” alps, plain, and Alhambra, one of
said our poor old Dr. Tortosa, al those few places which realize all pre
though he received a triple fee. To vious favourable conceptions. The
enjoy the Alhambra one must saunter town is built on the spurs of the
about it when fresh and “in the vein,” mountains which rise to the S.E. to
and especially by moonlight. (See p. their greatest altitude. Like Broussa,
312.) in Asia Minor, it has its Olympus,
Granada, being much visited by valley, and fortress palace. The city
foreigners, has its local guides which overlooks the Vega, and is about 2445
are hardly things of incurious Spain. ft. above the level of the sea: this alti
Since Mateo Ximenez, the immonalised tude, coupled with the snowy back
by Washington Irving, has come to ground, renders it a most delicious
grief, a legion of ignorant touters has summer resiience; while this bosom of
sprung up, who mislead and plunder snow furnishes a continual supply of
strangers. Those who do not wish to water for irrigation; accordingly the
be led into ditches, should make a Vega supplies every vegetable produc
point of securing Emmanuel Bensaken, tion, and is “ a spot,” said theArabians,
who is to be heard of at the Minerva. “ superior in extent and fertility to the
He speaks English and manylanguagcs, valley of Damascus:” they compared
and knows the south of Spain perfectly; the white villas and farmhouses which
sometimes he is called El Moro. At sparkle amid the eternal verdure to
all events, a Moor wasa better lionizer “ Oriental pearls set in a cup of eme
of the Alhambra than Monsieur Louis, ralds.” These dwellings are still called
a Buonapartist deserter, who,like a true “ Garments,” from Kcmn, Arabic‘e a vine
Frenchman, could not speak Spanish yard. Gianada is built on, and at the
or comprehend Spaniards. Eugenio base of, several hills: the portion to
Bensaken, junior, his son, can also be the rt., which hangs over the Xenil, is
most highly recommended as a travel called Anlequeruela, the “ Little Ante
ling servant. The best guide up the quera,” to which the natives of that
Sierra Nevada is Jose V1'llc_qas, servant town fled after its capture, in 1410. The
to -Juan Baltazar, who lets horses. He Alhambra is built on a crowning
knows every goat track in the hills. height, that hangs over the Darro,
Granada is the capital of its pro which selnrates the Antequeruela from
vince; p0p., about 60,000, having been the Albaicin — Rabnd-hu-1-Bayisin,
about 400,000 under the Moors. It is the “ the suburb of those from Baeza,” to
see of an archbishop, whose sutfragans whom it was assigned in 1227, when
are Guadix, and Baza, and Almeria, that city was conquered by the Chris
the residence of a Captain.-General, tians: from this Arabic Rabad is de
and of the civil and military provin rived the Spanish word “ Arrabal,”
cial authorities. It long was the seat suburb. The best portion of the town
of the southern Ch/m/:ill0-r'1,'r1, or Su lies at the base, while none but the
preme Conrt of Appeal, but a new poor live above. The Granadinos
Audiencia was formed at Albaccte, in despise the Alhambra, as a casa de
1835, to the injury of Granada, by re ratones, or rat’s hole, which indeed
moving lawyers and clients. It has a they have made it.
Ronda 5‘ Granada. noun: 25.-rm-: ALHAMBRA. 297
1
The society of Granada is dull. To Ronumu.’ It would be not less absurd
those who arrive from Seville, the in- - to interpret this as Roman than to con
habitants do not look either so well nect Karfiattah with a pomegranate.
dressed, so gay, or intelligent. There As the Alhambra is to ourconntrymen
are fewer Mujos, and the women are the emphatic attraction of Granada, and
inferiorwalkers and talkers; they want indeed we may say of Spain, its rise
the real meneo y gracia, although they and decline may be briefly stated.
contend that “ Las Granaclinas son may The Alhambra, the Acropolis, the
fims. ” The _ houses again are smaller Windsor Castle of Granada, is indeed
and less Oriental, for Granada was, a pearl of great price in the estimation
built by impoverished defeated refu of all travellers from foreign parts, for
gees, not like Seville, by the Moor in‘ few Granadinos ever go there, or under
all his palmy pride: they have fewer stand the all-absorbing interest, the
marble-pillared patios; the Zaguan is concentrated devotion, which it excites
smaller, and is paved with black and in the stranger. Familiarity has bred
white stones; the filigree Cancel is in them the contempt with which the
changed into aheavy oak door. Square Bedouin regards the ruins of Palmyra,
pilasters replace in shops and streets insensible alike to present beauty as to
the pillared shafts of Seville, and the past poetry and romance; and most
windows have more balconies and Spaniards, although not wearing tur
fewer Ifejas. bans, have the true Oriental lack of the
Granada now stagnates in book organs of veneration, and think of no
less ignorance; it has neither letters, thing beyond the present tense and the
arts, nor arms, that of cock-fighting first person— self. The leaven, again, of
excepted. Education is at the lowest hatred against their old rival the Moor
ebb. The petty commerce is passive: and his works is not extinct, and affront
there is a want of roads, whether ed by this Moorish worship, they resent
leading to the seaboard or inland, by the preference shown by strangers to
which it is isolated and kept poor; in those relics which they have, Gothlike,
short,like Cordova, from being an disfigured, as implying Spanish inferio
Athens under the Moors, it has become rity. The admiration of European pil
1
a Bteotia under the Spaniards of to grims have recently shamed the autho
day; for in better times it was the rities into a somewhat more conserva
birthplace of Fray Luis de Granada, tive feeling towards the Alhambra; but
one of the most eloquent and pathetic their good intentions are questionable,
writers of Spain (consult his Vida 3/ as they repair and beautify on church
V-irtudes, by Luis Munoz, duo., Mad., warden principles, and “restore” the
1711); of Lope de Rueda, the pre ruins, as they do the old masters in the
cursor of Lope de Vega and the dra Madrid Musco, etfacing the lines where
matists; of the historians, Luis de beauty lingers. Even in this their tardy
Marmol and Hnrtado Mendoza; of the appreciation they look to the main
sculptors, Juan Martinez Montafies chance : thus Mellado, in his Guide,
and Alonso Cano. 1843, p. 229, after lamenting that there
The “ canting” arms of Granada should be no Noticia of the Alhambra,
are a pomegranate, “Granada,” stalked of which he speaks coldly, suggests,
and proper: some, catching at sound, “as so many English visit it, that ade
not sense, have derived Granada from scriptive work would be a segura espe
this “Gran<tatum,” but the Moorish name culacion,” —a safe speculation, Thus
was Karnattah, and they never would the poetry of the Moor is coined into
have taken a Latin word had they the Spanish prose of profitable pesetas.
wished to call the town “ Pomegra It was our fate during two summers,
nate,” because the hills are divided more than 20 years ago, to reside in
somewhat like that fruit They would the Alhambra itself, and hold constant
have preferred their own word Rom converse with many aged chroniclers,
man, and to this day a salad made of Hijos de la Alhambra, who had seen
pomegranates is called “ Ensalada many things with their own eyes, and
0 3
298 nourn 25.—GRANADA. Sect. III.
heard the past from their parents.] The degradation of this Palatial
These living organs of tradition are fortress, this acropolis, this Windsor
now scattered or dead, and memory castle of the Moors, dates the very day
once interrupted can never be recalled. of the Castilian conquest, when the
The building was commenced by “ Purifications ” of lsabella’s monks,
Ibnu-l-ahmar, in I248; it was con that is, the whitewashings and re
tinued by his son "Abu’-abdillah, and movals of Moslem symbols, com
finished by his grandson Mohammed menced ; then the iron forged at Gothic
III., about 1314. The founder, like Toledo, shattered the gossamer fabric
Edward'III. at Vl’indsor, has every of the Moor. What Ferdinand and
where introduced his motto, his “ Honi Isabella began, their grandson Charles
soit qui mal y pense.” The words Wa V. carried out, who proceeded to re
la gluiliba illu Alla/z—and “ there is no move by the wholesale “ the ugly
conqueror but Allah,” are to be seen in abominations of the Moors.” He mo
every portion of the Trrr/cis/1 and Azu dernized and rebuilt portions, put up
Iqo. The origin is this: when he re heavy ceilings, cut out over-wide fire
turned from the surrender of Seville, places, took down the Moorish Turkish,
his subjects saluted him as gaIib—the ran up partitions, opened and blocked
conqueror, and he replicd——adopting up passages, and converted the dwelling
the Ta/zlil, or true Mussulmau war of an Oriental sybarite, into lodgings
cry—“ There is no conqueror but God.” for a chilly Flemish gentleman. His
This motto also appears on his coat of son and the Philips simply neglected
arms, which is the banner of Castile, the Alhambra, which in the absence of
granted to him by St. Ferdinand, and damp would have stood for ages, for
the same as adopted by Don Pedro for here scarcely the sepulchre is shrouded
the badge of his order of the Vanda, by a lichen. The palace shared in the
or Bend. This bend, once blue, was decline of the monarchy, and was made
changed into “ red ” to compliment in 1664 an extra-judicial asylum for
this Moorish William Rufus (Conde, debtors; thus poverty crept into the
iii. 38). “rules” of the king’s house. It was
The great decorator was Yusuf I., next given up to invalid soldiers, pri
who, although unsuccessful in war (see soners, and convicts, and, in a word,
Salado, p. 149), was eminent in_the arts made a den of thieves.
of peace: so vast were his revenues, The Alhambra, for the first 2 centu
that he was imagined to possess the ries after the conquest, scarcely at
tracted the attention of other'European
philosopher’s stone; but his secret was
quiet and industry, “ ct magnum "vec nations; indeed to travel, except on
tigal parsimonia.” He regilt and re compulsion, was not then the fashion.
painted the palace, which then must The names of visitors begin to be in
have been a thing of the “ Tales of the scribed on the walls about 1670. After
Gcnii ;” now all is deserted and unfur nearly a century more of neglect, the
nished, and the mere carease. The Alhambra was put into a sort of repair
colours are obliterated by Spanish by Richard Wall, the Irish ex-minister
whitewash, which destroys sharpness of Charles III. Unfortunately it was
of outline and fills up open work, and selected in 1792, at that king’s death,
the proportions are destroyed by centu as the prison of Aranda, who was dis
ries of ill-usage ; yet time and the dry placed from the ministry to make way
air of Spain have used it gently, treat for the minion Godoy,when the apart
ing it like a beautiful woman. What ments of Charles V. were whitewashed,
must it once have beeu——cun1 tales sunt and all the rich Italian arabesqucs
reliquiaa l Peter Martyr, an Italian of obliterated. The governor at that time,
taste, thus wrote when he entered it in one Savera, resided in the suite of
the train of the Gothic conquerors : rooms over the mosque, from which
“ Alhambram, pro! dii immortales! every vestige of Moorish taste was
qualem Regiam! unicam in orbe ter swept away. He placed his kitchen
rarum crede! " and filthiest appurtenances in a Moor

~——
Ronda gi" Granada. aourr: 25.—rm: ALHAMBRA. 299
ish mirador, where marble and gilding and in this rare instance he departed
yet linger amid abominations inde from “ salutary rigour,” and was guilty
scribable. Charles IV. next gave this of clemency. To the Alhambra no
i petty appointment to a Catalan named mercy was shown. He first proceeded
Don Luis Bucarelli, who had been to convert it into a place d’urmes,
wounded in a battle with the French, for which purpose countless houses
and was half-witted and bedridden. were demolished; Moorish mosque
He had 5 daughters, who married and Christian churches alike turned
paupers of other parts of the Alhambra, into magazines, and convents into
and were all quartered in it ; they laid barracks; the Moorish pavement of
their hands on everything that could blue and white in the Court of
be moved or sold. In vain were repre Lions was torn up to make a garden
sentations made by foreigners to the there, like that of a badaud guinguette
wittol Charles IV. ; he desired “ that at Paris. The shrubs blocked up size
the old man should not be worried ;” and space, and concealed beauties of
so plunder thus authorized did its every kind, while their roots injured
worst during the remainder of Buca the intricate vein-work of pipes by
relli’s life. He was succeeded by Don which the fountains played, and their
Lorenzo Velasco y Navara, who, by watering destroyed the rooms below.
endeavouring to correct some abuses, Not contented with this, on evacuating
became unpopular with the contador or the Alhambra, Sept. 17, 1812, the
the treasurer,who, on Godoy’s downfall, French mined the towers and blew up
managed to effect his dismissal on the 8 in number, many of which were
plea of his being a protege of the ex models of Moorish art; they intended
minister. The hereditary ofiice of to have destroyed them all at one fell
contador had been purchased by the swoop as their parting legacy, but their
Prado family of Philip V., and was agent, Don Antonio Farses, an Afrun
held by one Don Jose Prado, 40 years, cesado, took fright, and ran away after
he being the worst holder ever known his protectors. They retreated at 9 in
except his son Antonio. Albeit mal the morning, and Farses had, like an
practices and petty larcenies are venial unpunctual Spaniard, only commenced
sins in most Spanish “ unjust stewards,” the blowing up at ll ; the fusees were
yet such were the mortal offences of the put out by an invalid soldier named
son, that he was actually turned out of José Garcia. Let these deeds be held
the ofiice. This family of caterpillars in everlasting remembrance.
had pretty well eaten up the patrimony Montilla now returned; but no sooner
of the Alhambra, while the remaining had Ferdinand VII. reached Madrid
sums destined for repairs, &c., were than he left his post,like most Spaniards,
divided, as usual, by the other autho to job for a better place. Then one Villa
rities. About l808 Don Ignacio Mon Ecusa was directed to collect all that the
tilla was appointed governor. His French had not taken away, for they
wife kept her donkey in the beautiful had made the Alhambra their receiv
chapel, and made the Patio de Ia Mez ing.-house. He was assisted in his
quita a pen for her sheep. But Ocafia commission by Don José Prado, the
soon brought in the wolf, and Sebastiani contudor, and Antonio Maria Prieto y
arrived in January, 1810. Montilla, Venencio, the “ escribano .~” verbum
for the sole crime of not presenting sat. They gutted the Alhambra, they
himself to this potentate, was im tore off door-locks and bolts, took out
prisoned in the Comares tower, and even panesof glass, and sold everything
only saved from instant execution by for themselves, and then, like good
some Poles who were quartered in the patriots, reported that the invaders had
Alhambra. His friends then got “ La left nothing. The Court of Lions was
Punera,” at whose house Sebastiani was now impassable from ruin ; some of the
lodging, to intercede. The lady was animals were broken and thrown on
rich andbeautiful, so Mammon allied the ground. Then stepped in the
to Venus subdued the Gener-al’s heart, second founder of the Alhambra--not’
300 ROUTE 25.——GRANADA. Sect. III.
a commissioner of taste—“rien, pas large portion of the Alhambra into
meme académicien”~—but an humble stores for the salt-fish of his scoundrel
female peasant, Francisca de Molina, charge; at this vandal work we be
whom Montilla had appointed portress. held his worthy galériens working in
She is the Dona or Tia Antonia of chains for Weeks, in 1831, tearing down
Washington Irving, and, with her and casting over the battlements the
niece Dolores and Mateo Ximencz, will Moorish Iicnzos and azulejos, quaeque
live immortalized by his ingenious pen. ipse miserrima vidi. In March of
As we lived with these ladies 2 sum that fatal year, as if destruction were
mers we can vouch historically that its rule, a large portion of the cur
the Tia Frasquita was cross and tain or outer wall, hanging over the
erabbed, Dolores ill-favoured and Darro, fell in, which has since been
mercenary, and Mateo a chattering rebuilt. In that summer, however,
Mr. Addington, the British ambassador,
blockhead ; out of such worthies genius
coming down from Madrid to visit our
has made heroes and heroines, for-the
power of romance can gild the basesthumble selves then living in the Al
metals. Montilla had granted to the hambra, induced the authorities to
Tia the use of the Adarves and the remove a powder-magazine, which, as
garden, and she made money by show it had no conductor, not even a holy
ing the place and dressing picnic din week palm-branch, was liable, during
ners, until some ultra-bacchic festi any lightning storm, to vie with Van
vities caused that permission to be dals, foreign and domestic. Thus, as
withdrawn. an accident, the moving power of things
No sooner were the French troops of Spain, prevented the complete de
ejected from the Alhambra, by the re struction of the Alhambra towers by
coil of the Duke’s victory at Sala the French, the accidental visit of an
manca, than this Tia went to work to Englishman may have preserved the
repair their ravages. Labor ipse volup remains of what Gaul and chance had
tas. She set the Lions on their legs, and spared.
cleared away the rubbish. At length When Ferdinand VII. died, and civil
the indignant remarks of foreign tra wars broke out, the Alhambra, in com
vellers shamed the authorities, who mon with the Eseorial Aranjuez, and
commenced some trifling restorations ; everything royal, was left to go to ruin.
but in 1821 an earthquake shattered In 1837 the governor cut up the Moor
the ancient pile, and the times were ish doors of the Sala de los Abencerrages,
out of joint, and the Constitucion in and permitted another man bf taste to
force; then Montilla, being a royalist, “ repair and beautify” la Casa Sanchez.
and a gentleman by birth, was perse This once, when inhabited by honest
cuted by the patriots, by whom one Sanchez, of whom Panza was the type,
-Juan Camerara was named governor, was one of the most picturesque and
and as the city Junta seized for them most Moorish of dwellin gs. During the
selves the scanty funds of the real panic occasioned by the incursion of
palzimnnio, the Alhambra again has the Carlists under Gomez, a good deal
tened to decay. In 1823, when Fer more mischief was done in what was
dinand VII. was delivered, Montilla called putting the place in a state of
returned ; but he resigned in 1827, and defence : at length, in 1842, Argiielles,
was succeeded by a Col. Francisco la tutor to the Queen, destined a small
Serna, whose great object was to find sum from the privy purse for absolute
work for galley-slaves : in an evil hour
repairs, which have been tolerably
he selected the Alhambra for their oc done, and are continued slowly at
cupation. His first step was to try to present.
expel the Tia Frasquita, who, having The first ‘object of every English
lived 60 years in the palace, was not traveller is the Alhambra; ascend
only Lioniser, but its Lioness, Queen, therefore the Oalle de los Gomeles, and,
and Cook, being nick-named La Reyna passing under the gate ole las Granadas,
Coquina. La Serna next converted a enter the magical jurisdiction of this
Ronda 6‘ Granada. ROUTE 25.—TnE ALHAMBRA. 301
fairy palace. 3 paths diverge; that here being rare, are as much admired
to the rt. leads to the Torres ])’ar1:wjus, as palms would be with us; on reaching
the “ red towers,” a sort of outwork, the height is a Semi-circular barbican,
which deserves a subsequent visit. and below it a fountain, wrought in
This, the most ancient portion of Gra the coarse stone of Elvira, in the Ber
nada, existed when Illiberis was the ruguete style. It was erected by the
chief town, and is mentioned as “ Kal Alcaide Mendoza, whose arms, with
’at A1-hamra,” “ the red castle,” by an those of Charles V., are sculptured on
Arabian poet, so early as A.D. 864. It it. The river-gods represent the Genil,
was afterwards called Medinah Al Darro, &c. : this monument has re
hamra, “ the red city” (Casiri, ‘ Bib. cently been barbarously repaired and
Es.’ ii. 249). Pedro de Alcala, in his “ restored.”
Arabo-Hispano dictionary of the time Granada is a city of fountains, which,
of the conquest, translates Bermeja by a luxury with us, is a necessity here.
Amhar (hamm in the feminine), a The Darro and Xenil are drawn ofl‘ in
name well applicable to the red ferru canals from high up near their sources,
ginous concrete tapia of which it is and thus the waters retain the original
built. It may have existed even be elevation above the town; columns are
fore the Romans; indeed, some anti accordingly thrown up from fountains
quarians, who can see far into a mile in great body and height.
stone, pretend to recognize Phoenician A sharp turn conducts to the grand
work. I-labus Ibn Makesen, when he entrance, La Torre de Justicia, the
removed from Illiberis in 1019, erected
“ Porch," the “ gate of judgment,” the
above this outwork the Kassabah Al “ Sublime Porte,” at which the king or
hamra, “ the enclosure of the red,” the
his kaid dispensed judgment, as in the
present Alcazaba. This lbnu-l-ahmar East (Deut. xvi. 18; 1 Kings viii. 7),
selected for his residence, and built after an ancient fashion, which at least
the Kasru-1-hamra, the “ Alcazar, or was more rapid and cheap, and possibly
palace, of or in the red enclosure.” The quite as equitable, as any modern Court
long lines of walls and towers crown of Chancery, either below the hill or
the hill, and follow the curves and elsewhere. This gate was erected in
dips of the ground, just as an artist 1308 by Yusuf I., Abfi-1-hajstj, a great
would have placed them: there is no decorator of the Alhambra. The
attempt at symmetry or anything Moors called it Babu-sh-shari’ah, the
straight; hence, as at _Jaen, Xativa, “ gate of the law.” The inscription
&c., the elegance and plcturesqueness over the inner doorway records its
of these Oriental fortifications; they elevation and- the name of the founder.
are the antitheses of the common It ends, “ May the Almighty make
place line and rule places of Vauban, this [gate] a protecting bulwark, and
write down its [erection] among the
which are as worthless to the artist as
admirable to the engineer. imperishable actions of the jus ." The
The Moorish towers rise like reddishMoorish diapery has been broken, to
cork models out of a girdle of trees, make a niche for apoor wooden image
which contrasts with the stony sierras of the Virgin.
above. The centrewalk leadstothe pub Over the outer horse—shoe arch is
lic gardens, that to the 1. to the Alham seen an open hand, which some con
bra ; the wooded slopes are kept green sider an emblem of hospitality and
by watercourses, and tenanted by night generosity, the redeeming qualities of
ingales ; although everythinglooks the the Oriental. Others think it a type
work of nature, it is the creation of of the 5 principal commandments of
man, as the Moor changed the barren the creed of lslam—“ To keep the fast
rock into an Eden; had the French of Ramadan, pilgrimage to Mecca,
intentions succeeded, all would have almsgiving, ablution, and war against
relapsed into barrenness, from their the infidel.” Others refer it to the
destruction of the supply of water : the Hebrew Jud/L, the hand of God, the
elm-trees came from England, and Oriental symbol of power and provi
302 _ ROUTE 25.—GRANADA. Sect. III.
dence. But the true meaning of it is its own governor. The ofiice was one
a talisman over the portal against the of high honour, but is now altogether
much dreaded “ Evil Eye,” at which second rate. The Virgin and Child,
Orientals and Spaniards have always in the Retablo, was painted by Saint
and do still tremble. The Morisco Luke, to which, if any doubted, Mateo
women wore small hands of gold and Ximenez would swear. In our time no
silver round their necks, like the Nea donkeyswere allowedto go through this
politans, and a substitute for the classi passage, because some had grossly mis
cal phallic symbol of defiance. Charles_ behaved themselves before the sacred
V., by a Pragmatica in 1525, forbad painting. Hence a narrow wa1l-en
this usage. In the Sula de los Emba closed lane leads to the open place,
jadores is an inscription to the same Plaza de los Algi/ms, under which are
purport : “ The best praise be given to the Moorish “ cisterns,” which are
God I I will remove all the effects of filled by the Darro; they are cleaned
an evil eye upon our master Yusuf,” &c. in January, and then can be visited.
Over the inner arch is a sculptured In summer an awning is erected over
key, in which some see the Oriental a well, whence a supply of cool water
symbol of power (Isa. xxii. 22), and is sold to those who come up from
others the “ key of David ” (Rev. iii. Granada with donkeys. This Plaza
7). Others, however, hold that it is divides the palace from the Alcazabu
allusive to the “ power of the keys,” Kassribah, the citadel. The latter was
by which the true prophet opened the formerly entered by the Torre del Ho
gates of heaven and hell. Then it is menage, of “ Homage,” which rises at
said to be simply a badge of honour, the end of the Pelota, or fives-court,
like the keysworn by gentlemen of bed whose wall much disfigures the Plaza.
chambers and titled menials; the key, Observe a Roman altar from Illiberis,
however, was a symbolic sign among imbedded by the Moors in this tower ;
the Sufis, denoting knowledge—“ the it is inscribed by the grateful Valerius
key by which God opens the heart of to his “most indulgent wife,” Cor
believers.” It occurs over many An nelia.
dalucian castles, especially those built The present entrance to the 1. was
after the arrival of the Almohades, made by the French. The Alcazaba is
a word corrupted from Al Mm/.~a'hedum, now used as a prison for galley-slaves.
or Unitarians, a domineering religious The once most curious Moorish ar
sect, who bore this particular badge on moury was sold by its governor, Bu
their banners. There is an idle tale, carelli, _to defray the cost of a bull
how the Moors boasted that this gate fight. Ascend the Torre de la Vela .
neverwould be opened to the Christians by its narrow staircase. Here, as
until the hand took the key. an inscription records, the Christian
The entrance is carried through a flag was first hoisted by the Cardinal
double gate : “ David sat between the Mendoza and his brother. The pano
two gates ” (2 Sam. xviii. 24). Here rama is glorious. Below lies Granada,
is a guard-room ; and the intricate tor belted with plantations; beyond ex
tuous passages are contrived so as to pands the Vega, about 30 m. in length
obstruct an entering enemy. Now, in by 25 in width, 70 in circumference,
stead of the well-appointed Mameluke and guarded like an Eden by a wall of
and glittering Moor, or iron-clad cham mountains. The basin was once a lake,
pion of Tendilla, a few gaunt, bandit through which the Xenil burst a way
looking invalids are huddled together. at Loja. The Vega is studded with
Passing onwards, near a paltry altar villas and villages; every field has its
screen, is a Gothic inscription, coeval battle, every rivulet its ballad. It is a
with the conquest, recording that scene for painters to sketch, and for
event, and the appointment of Inigo poets to describe. To the 1. rise the
Lopez de Mendoza as alcaide. The snowy Alpujarras, then the distant
jurisdiction of the Alhambra is sepa Sierra of Alhama, then the gorge of
rate from that of Granada, and has Loja in the distance, then the round
U
Ronda & Granada. nourn 25.—rnn ALHAMBRA. 308
mountain of Parapanda, which is the In a small court of the Alcazaba is
barometer of the Vega, as Soracte was a marble sarco hagus or tank, with
to Horace; for when its head is bon basso-relievos o animals; among them
netted with mists, so surely does rain the “ deer-slaying lion,” which occurs
fall: “ Cwmdo Parapanda se pone la so often in Greek art. It is difiicult
montera, Llzwve aunque Dios no lo qui to say whether this rude sculpture be
siera.” Nearer Granada is the Sierra antique or Moorish. An Arabic in
de Elvira, the site of old Illiberis, and scription is carried round the border,
below the dark woods of the Duke of but this_may be later than the carving ;
Wellington’s Soto de Roma. To the rt. at all events, stays are animals con
‘is the rocky defile of Moclin, and the nected by Orientals with the fountain,
distant chains of Jaen. “ as the hart panteth for the water
The Torre dc la Vela is so called, br0oks:” and the Spanish Moors,
because on this “ watch-tower” hangs among other departures from strict
a silver-tongued bell, which, struck Moslem rules, did not reject either
by the warder at certain times, is the paintings or carvings of living objects.
primitive clock that gives notice to Returning to the Plaza de los AI
irrigators below. It is heard on a gibes, is an isolated Moorish tower
still night even at Loja, 30 m. off, La Torre del Vino, built in 1345 by
and tender and touching are the feel Yu'suf I. Observe the elegant Moor
ings which the silver sound awakens. ish arch, and the Azultjos, with
This bell is also rung every January 2, which Spanish filth and neglect con
the anniversary of the surrender of trast. This oratory was first turned
Granada; on that day the Alhambra into a temple of Bacchus when the
is visited by crowds of peasantry. Few Alhambra had a privilege of intro
maidens pass by without striking the ducing wine; now it is sacred to
bell, which ensures a husband, and Cloacina Granadina. The large palace
a good one in proportion as the noise opposite was begun by Charles V.,
made, which it need not be said is con and, symbol of himself and Spain,
tinuous and considerable. The féte is great in conception and impotent in
altogether most national and pictur conclusion, is unfinished and unroofed ;
esque. Ascend this torre just before yet to raise this edifice, which he could
the sun sets, to see what is his blaze not complete, Charles destroyed large
of glory in these southern latitudes, portions ofwhat the Moors had finished.
when he incarnadines heaven and This palace is, however, what the
earth. Then, as darkness comes on, Spaniards admire, and to this, their
the long lines of burning weeds and building, and not to the Alhambra, that
stubble in the Vega run and sparkle, of the Moors, do they direct the stran
crackling like the battle flashes of in ger’s attention. The foundations were
fantry; and, in the old warder’s re laid with an evil omen, and in the
mark, recall the last campaigns of the tears of a pillaged people. The funds
Moor and Christian. were extorted from the Moriscos to buy
The under line of bastions, or off the dreaded inquisition, which,
adarves, which extend to the Gate of nevertheless, was let loose on them.
Justice, were laid out by Charles V. This true Cluiteau en Espagne was
in hanging gardens with fountains, begun in 1526, progressed slowly until
busts, and cinque—cento sculpture. The 1633. and was then abandoned. It
cypresses seen everywhere from afar, consists of a square of 220 ft., with
are the sole constant mourners of the 3 elaborate facades, and was one of the
Moor. The vines, Parrales,are said to first buildings erected in Spain in the
be of the time of Boabdil. Their Grace-Romano Bramante style. The
boa-constrictor-like stems wind round ornaments of the grand portal and
the square pilasters. The outer bas windows, ascribed to Berruguete, are
tions, below the Alcazaba, were de by Pedro Machuca. As works of art,
stroyed by the French, and are now a the basso-relievos are much overrated;
weedovergrown ruin. and such is the poverty. of invention,
304 noura 25.—GRANADA. Sect. III.
that the same compositions are simply stranger into an almost paradise. In
reversed. The creamy pudding-stone commonwith other Moorish command
is called .AZlIL(,’TLdl‘(ld0, and comes from ing Alcazares, it is built on the crest
the quarries of El Turro. The interior of a hill, and of tapiu. The picturesque
is cut up with a disproportioned Doric walls and towers, which fringe the
and Ionic circular patio, which, how heights, follow the natural lines of the
ever well contrived, if the emperor uneven ground. This fortress-palace,
meant to use it as an arena for bull the dwelling of an Oriental, was in
fights, must destroy the propgrtions of tended to awe the city below with the
all rooms near it. The court, how forbidding exterior of power, to keep
ever, has generally been made a work out heat, enemies foreign and domestic,
ing-place or galley-slaves. There was and to keep in women. The plain
a notion of offering this huge shell to aspect was adopted to avert the effects
the Duke of Wellington, with hopes of the evil eye, the bugbcar ofOrientals,
that he would finish it with English which scowls on the over prosperous,
gold; but it ended in nothing. There and dogs their felicity. The interior vo
was some talk also of Queen Christina luptuousness and splendour was masked
taking it in hand, but dc lo dic/zo al like the glittering spar is in a coarse
hecho, ca gran trccho. pebble.
Before enterin the Moorish palace The internal arrangements were
look around at this Plaza, where every purely Oriental, with its colonnaded
thing is typical of the past and pre walks, the fountains, baths, the diaper
sent. In front the massy towers of stucco Tarlzish, Azulejo dado, above
the Moors frown over ruins and neglect. which hung the rich Artesonado roof,
The uneven weed-encumbered court is gilded and starred like a heaven. “ The
disfigured by invalids, beggars,and con architecture of the Arabs,” says Owen
victs, emblems of Spanish weakness Jones, “is essentially religious, and
and poverty. The clanking of the cri the offspring of the Koran, as Gothic
minal’s chain has replaced the cry of architecture is of the Bible. The pro
the Mueddin and the Algara of the hibition to represent animal life caused
Moorish knight. The unfinished pa them to seek for other means of deco
lace of the Austrian which insults theration—inscriptions from the Koran,
half-destroyed abode of the Western interwoven with geometrical orna
Kalif—is a thing of Spain, of to-day, ments and flowers, not drawn de
where old systems are overturned by cidedly from nature, but translated
rash innovators, who have been unable through the loom; for it would seem
to raise any new ones in their place. that the Arabs, in changing their
The present entrance to la real casa wandering fora settled life, in striking
Arabs is of Spanish construction, and the tent to plant it in a form more
lies in an obscure corner; for Charles solid, had transferred the luxurious
V., adding insult to injury, did not shawls and hangings of Cashmere,
even set his new building in a parallel which had adorned their former dwell
line with the older one, and destroyed ins, to their new, changing the tent
altogether the previous and noble pole for a marble column, and the
facade which opened to the south. silken tissue for gilded plaster ;” and
Before entering it may be as well to certainly he might have added that
say a word on the erection of this the palm-tree was the type of the
edifice, the Arabic inscriptions, colours, columns which they used in their
ceilings, and architectural peculiarities: patios. With regard to the Arabic
its decay has already been recorded. inscriptions, these epi_r/rammata are
The severe, simple, almost forbid written in an ornate character, and are
ding exterior of the Alhambra, gives decorations of themselves; their usage
no promise of theAladdin gorgeousness was borrowed from the phylacteries,
which once shone within, when the the preservative devices of the Jews.
opening of a single door, as if by-the Gayangos observes of their import,
tap of a fairy’s wand, admitted the that “ They are of three sorts :-—A_z/zit,
Ronda & Granada. noon: 25.—THE ALHAMBRA. S05
that is verses from the Koran; Asja‘, for which the Moors had a “ highly
that is, pious sentences not taken from organised natural instinct.” The se
the Koran ; and As/idr, that is, poems condary colours, purple, green, and
in praise of the builders or owners, of orange, only occur in the dados of Azu
the palace.” Like most Oriental lq'o,which,being nearer the eye, formed
poetry, the import is altogether fiat a point of repose from the more brilliant
and insipid to European readers; the colouring above; some may now seem
charm appears to consist rather in green, but this is the change eifected
sounds and words than in meaning; by time on the original metallic blue.
now both are lost to eyes that under The Catholic kings used both green
stand not. But well might the poet and purple, and their work can easily
Iman Ibn Nasr inscribe one wall thus :be discovered by the coarseness of exc
cutiou and the want of the harmonious
“ Look attentively at my elegance, thou
wilt reap the benefit of a commentary |balance of colours, which the Moors
on decoration,” and certainly surface , understood so much better. Under the
ornamentation and gorgeous fanciful ' Moors, according to Owen Jones, the
elegance, were never carried to higher I inarblc pillars were gilt, but the Span
5Jf1I}‘1l'90l%)0I1 than on the walls of the grldis _foiitili1d_it casiersto sgrtalpe off 2:
am ra. in ei repair , an us exp
Theinscriptionsbelonging to the first the white stone, than to regild them.
two classes are generally written in ‘ The elegant palm-like pillars deserve
Cufic, the character of the city El ‘notice, and especially the variety of
Koofeh, founded about the 17th year of their ca_pitals_; these are, in all cases,
the Hegira. The square form lends ' carved in white marble; only the em
itself to geometrical patterns; indeed, Q bellishments on the mouldings, which
it is as diflicult to distinguish the lare now indicated by faint lines, are
letters from the diagrams, as it is the painted, the ground being blue, and
modern Arabic character from the , the ornament the white surface of the
scrolly ornaments. The Cufic letters marble; in some cases this order is
are oftenappearance
uniform so arranged aswa
both to ‘s;
present a
“ thus lreversed: few perfect,
i their colouring of the although
capitals retain
traces
the inscription can be read rom the r. i of it appear in almost all; the ground
to the 1., or from the l. to the r., and is frequently red, with blue leaves on
upwards or downwards. The long " the upper surfaces; all the bands and
poems are all written in the African inscriptionswere in gold; the common
hand, with such care that no letter is inscriptions are, “ And there is no
ever wanting in its diacritic points,1 conqueror but God ;” and “ Blessing.”
and the vowels and grammatical ‘ The dados of Azulejo and “ frets” de
signs are likewise inserted.” The , serve careful notice. Intricate as these
modern Arabic character, the Nesk/ii‘ interlacings appear, they are formed
or more cursive, was adopted about on the simplest rules: “ If a series of
the year 950, but the old Cufic one lines,” says Owen Jones, “be drawn
continued to be used in inscriptions equidistant and parallel to each other,
in conjunction with it down to 1508. crossed by a similar series at right
These records, so speaking to the angles so as to form squares, and the
Moor, are full of meaning; telling at spaces thus given set ofl’ diagonally, in
every turn the greatness, goodness, and tersecting each alternate square, every
unity of the Godhead; they are now possible combination may be obtained;
lost on the “inattentive” stranger, or an equal variety will result by
who can neither read nor interpret the drawing equidistant lines diagonally
writings on the wall. and setting otf the spaces at each
The colours employed by the Moors square at right angles.” In the Azu
were, in all cases, the primary—blue, lt:iO pillars the component parts are
red, and yellow (gold) ; blues predomi the same, the infinite variety of pattern
nating to correct the reds and yellows, being obtained by changing the colours
and thus preserve the harmony ofcolour and juxtaposition of the separate parts.
306 noon: 25.—-omxaoa. Sect. III.
Where these Azulejo tiles are used as ornate and minute, and has neither
pavements, if inscribed they have been the grand size of the Zflgyptian, the
most likely placed there by the Spa exquisite proportion of the Greek and
niards, for the Mohamedans are most Roman, or the solemnity of the Gothic.
careful even of treading on any acci The mode of hanging the doors is
dental scrap of paper, for fear it should that used by the ancients in their
contain the revered name of Allah. temples, and continued in the East
Many of the marble pavements in the to this day; they move on pivots,
Alhambra clearly were not the original forming part of the framing, which are
ones, as they are placed above the an let intoa socket in a marble slab below,
cient level, and conceal portions of the and above into the soflit of the beam ;
Mosaic dado. a bolt usually secures, at the same time,
The honeycomb stalactical pendent both the flaps of the folding-doors and
ives are all constructed on mathema the wicket.
tical principles; they are composed of Entering by the obscure portal of
numerous prisms, united by their con Spanish construction, to the l. is the
tiguous lateral surfaces, consisting of quarter allotted to the governor’s resi
seven different forms proceeding from dence. The suite of rooms is noble,
three primary figures on plain; these but every beauteous vestige of the
are the right-angled triangle, the rec Moor has been swept away. The first
tangle, the isosceles triangle. The va patio has various names; it is called
rious component parts are capable of de la Alberca and de la Bar-cu—of the
an infinite variety of combination, as “Fish-pond,” of the “Bark,” these
infinite as the melodies which may be are corruptions of the true Moorish
produced from the seven notes of the name “Berkalz,” “the Blessing,” which
musical scale. The conical ceilings in occurs all over it in the Arabic inscrip
the Alhambra attest the wonderful tions. “Beerkeh,” in Arabic, also sig
power and efiect obtained by the repe nifies a tank, unde Albcrca. The side
tition of the most simple elements; walls are planted with myrtles, whence
nearly 5000 pieces enter into the con it is called de los Arm;/anes, Arrayhan,
struction of the ceiling of Las dos Her Arabicé “a myrtle." It is about 150
manas ; and although they are simply feet long by S0 wide.
of plaster, strengthened here and To the rt. is an elegant double cor
there with pieces of reed, they are ridor, the upper portion, recently re
in most perfect preservation: but the paired, being the only specimen of its
carpentry of the Phmnicians passed kind in the Alhambra. Here'¢was the
down to the Moor. These houses, grand entrance of the Moors, which,
“ceiled with cedar and painted with with the whole winter quarter, was
Vermilion ” (Jer. xxii. 14), are exactly pulled down by Charles V., who built
those of the ancient Egyptians (Wilk. up his palace against it. The under
ii. 125). saloon was converted by the French
The A1-tesmzado ceilings, the shutter into an oil- magazine; the tank,'Es
and door marqueterie works, resemble tunque, in the centre of the court, was
those in the Alcazar of Seville. The formerly enclosed by a Moorish balus
patterns, although apparently intricate, trade, which was pulled down and sold
are all reducible to the simplest geo in the time of Bucarelli. The marble
metrical rules, and the same principle pavement came from Macacl, and is
applies equally to the Lienzos and Azu now much broken up, as the French
Iejos. A common principle of surface here piled up their firewood for their
ornamentation pervades, as the mos camp kettles.
lcm prohibition of introducing living The saloons to the rt. of this patio,
forms, narrowed and fixed the decora were once most gorgeous; they be
tive scope, and more care was taken longed to the monarch’s wife, and
in the contrast of colour and variety hence are still called el cuarto de'Ia
of lines. The Arabian style certainly Sultdna. These were gutted in 1831
consists of the multiplication of the by the governor La Serna, who con
Ronda {V Granada. nours 25.——ran ALHAMBRA. 307
verbed them into store-rooms for the let the masses appear to hang in air
salt-fish of his presidarios. On the floating like summer clouds. Observe
opposite side is a small room fitted up the divans or alcoves at each end of this
by Ferdinand the Catholic, as the anteroom, and especially, near that to
ceiling shows, for the archives, which, the rt., the Azulejo pillars and portions
contained in iron trunks, have never of the original colours with which the
been properly examined. In 1723 the stucco Turkish was decorated. Observe,
contador Manuel Nufiez dc Prado in this anteroom, the ceiling—a wag
printed some of them; but as he was gon-headed dome of wood, of most
very ignorant and made the selection elaborate patterns, and the honeycomb
himself, garbling and falsifying the stalactical pendentives.
pages, the extracts only related to saints, Before entering the Hall of Ambas
relics, and nonsense, and were so absurd sadors, pass by a staircase to the I.,
that he was advised to buy up the copies, which leads up to the governor’s
which, consequently, are very rare. A dwelling, to the Mczquita, once the
new compilation was then made by Luis mosque of the palace. The patio,
Francisco Viano, a canon of the Sacro a picture, was made a shcep~pen by
Monte, who employed Echevarria as Montilla’s wife, and since a poultry
his amanuensis. Just when they were yard: one facade retains its original
printed Prado died, and with him his Moorish embroidery, and the beams
project, as the attorney Venencio then of the roof are the finest specimens in
sold the sheets for waste paper. This the Alhambra. The upper part of the
little room contains or contained a fine cornice above the stalactites is wood,
Moorish marble table, and a splendid and from the form of the barge-board
earthenware vase, enamelled in blue, may be collected the shape of the
white, and gold; the companion was original tiles which rested on it. The
broken in the time of Montilla, who inscriptions between the rafters are
used the fragments as flower-pots, until “Al-Mann,” “ The Grace” of God;
a French lady carried them away. and on the moulding underneath,
There is some difiiculty in getting into “ And there is no conqueror but God,”
this room. The governor, the contador, alternately with “ God is our refuge
and the escribano, each have a key of in every trouble.” A barbarous Spa
three locks, and these worthies, like nish gallery destroys one sidc: observe
Macbeth’s witches, must be well paid the two pillars of the vestibule and
before they will meet~~“ nuestro ul their unique capitals. The door of
calde, nunca da paso de valde.” The the mosque was stripped of its bronze
Azulqjo dado which ran round this facings by the Bucarellis, who sold
patio was stripped ofi‘ by Bucarelli’s the copper: afragrnent only remains,
daughters and sold. Near the archives which was out of the reach of these
is the Moorish door which ledto the harpies.
mosque. Proceeding to the Mezquita, the
Advancing to the great tower of roof was re-painted by Ferdinand and
Comares, observe the elegant ante Isabella. Near the entrance on the rt.
gallery; the slim columns would ap is the exquisite niche, the Milzrab or
pear unequal to the superincumbent sanctuary, in which the Koran was
weight were not the spandrels lightened deposited. The inscription at the
by perforated ornaments, by which springing of the arch is “ And be not
also a cool current of air is admitted. one of the negligent.” Turning to the
Lightuess was the aim of Moorish archi l. is the mosque, which Charles V.
tects,-as massiveness was of the ancient converted into a chapel, thus himself
Egyptians. The real supports were doing here what he condemned in
concealed, and purposely kept unex others at Cordova (p. 230). The in
pressed, so that the apparent supports, congruous additions mar this noble
thin pillars, and gossamer perforated saloon. A heavy ill-contrived altar is
fabric, seemed fairy work: the object placed in the middle, while all around
was to contradict the idea of weight, and figure dolphins, pagan mottos, and
308 ROUTE 2-5.—-GRAXADA. Sect. III.
cinque-cento ornaments, with the arms eminence be upheld by the Master of
of the Mendozas, the hereditary al divine glory and the celestial throne !”
caides. A raised gallery or pew, And splendid indeed must all have
partly gilt and partly unfinished, re been under the Moor, and in perfect
calls the “ beautifying and repairing ” contrast with the present Spanish abu
of some bungling churchwarden. The miuation of desolation. The existing
floor of the mosque has been lowered ceiling, an artesonado dome of wood,
about 2 feet, probably with a view to ornamented by ribs intersecting each
obtain height for the pew gallery. other in various patterns, with orna
Reasccnding to the anteroom of the ments in gold,paintedon groundsofblue
Salrr (lc los Ambajadores, on each side and red in the interstices, is composed of
at the entrance are recesses into which, the Alerce, and darkened by time; the
according to some, the slippers were original ceiling was of stucco, but fell
placed—an Oriental and Roman custom down with an arch which once was
(Exod. iii. 5; Mart. iii. 50, 3). The carried across the hall. The enor
Asiatic, being the aiitipodes of the Eu mous thickness of the walls may be
ropean, takes off his shoes, not his hat, estimated by the windows, which are
as a mark of respect: others contend, so deeply recessed as to look like
and perhaps rightly, that these niches cabinets, or the lateral chapels of a.
were meant to contain alcoruzas, or cathedral. The views from them are
porous drinking vessels filled with cool enchanting. “ Ill-fated the man who
water, the luxury of the East; and this lost all this,” said Charles V. when
notion is borne out by the import of he looked out. The saloon has been
some of the inscriptions round these much injured by earthquakes and the
heavy wooden shutters introduced by
apertures. e. g., “ Ifany oneapproach me
complaining of thirst, he will receive this Charles. Below this hall are
cool and Ii/npifl water, sweet without ad some vaulted rooms, where some se
mixture.” This reception- room of cond-nate marble statues, probably by
state occupies the whole interior of the Pedro Machuea, 2 nymphs and a Ju
Coinares tower, which is a square of piter and Leda, are deposited, being
37 ft., by 75 ft. high to the centre of considered too nude for Spanish pru
the dome: observe the Azulejos, the dery. Observe the infinity of sub
Turkish, and the site of the royal tei‘raneous intercommunications, m0st_
throne, which was placed opposite the of which have been blocked up by the
entrance. The rt. inscription runs, Spaniards: these were the escapes of
“ From me, this throne, thou art wel the Sultan in times of outbreak. Here
comed morning and evening by the also were the state prisons, and from
tongues of Blessing—Berkah—pros the window looking down on the
perity, happiness, and friendship ; that Darro it is said that ’Ayesliah, fearful
is the elevated dome, and we, the se of her rival Zoraya, let down Boabdil
veral recesses, are her daughters; yet in a basket, as James I. was from the
I possess excellence and dignity above castle of Edinburgh.
all those of my race. Surely we are Corning up again, turning to the rt.,
all members of the same body, butl a heavy gallery, built by Charles V.,
am like the heart in the midst of them, leads to the '1bcaa'or de la Reina, or
and from the heart springs all energy the dressing-room of the Queen, as the
of soul and life.” The l. inscription Spaniards have called this somewhat
runs, “True, my fellows, these may exposed, and Z1 la Bathshebah Jllirudor,
be compared to the signs of the zodiac which is only the Tvoc keyseh of the
in the heaven of that dome, but I can Moslem of Cairo (see Lane, ii. 62).
- boast that of which they are wanting, The chilly Fleming Charles blocked
the honour of a sun, since my lord, up the elegant Moorish colonnade,
the victorious Yusuf, has decorated and the marble shafts still struggle
me with robes of glory, and excellence to get out of their mortar prison. The
without disguise, and has made me royal dressing-room is about 9 feet
the Throne of Iris Empire: may its square; the interior was modernised
Ronola ti’ Granada. ROUTE 25.—THE ALHAMBRA. 309
by Charles, and painted in arabesque awaits in this delightful spot.” Near
like the Vatican loggie; but no picture the bailos is a whispering-gallery,
of art can come up to those of nature, which pleases the childish, tasteless
when We look around on the hills and natives more than any Moorish re
defiles as seen from between the marble mains. The suite of rooms above
colonnade. The artists were Julio were modernised by the newly married
and Alesandro, pupils of Giovanni da Charles V., who arrived here June 5,
Udina, who had come to Spain to de 1526. Here Spaniards contend that
corate the house of Francisco de los Philip II. was at least begotten, if he
Cobos, the Emperor’s secretary, at was born at Valladolid, May 21, 1527.
Ubeda. They represent views of The ceilings, heavy fire-places, and
Italian seaports, battles, ships, and carvings of Charles, are diametrically
banners, but have been barbarously opposed to the work of the Moor: he
mutilated. These walls are scribbled demolished everything both here and
over with the names of travellers, the to the l. in the Patio de los Arra_yanes,
homage of all nations. In a corner is called also De Lindaraja, from the
a marble slab drilled with holes, name of a Moorish princess. There is
through which perfumes were said to an Arabic fountain in the court.
have been wafted up while the Sultana Retracin our steps through the
was dressing, after the fashion of the Patio de a Alberca, we pass by an
“ Foramina et Specularia” of the ans anteroom, much altered by Ferdinand
cients, but the room was either an and Isabella, and still worse by Philip
oratory or a mere mirador, as an ex V., into the Court of Lions, a Moorish
posed alfresco dressing-room would cloister, but one never framed for as
have been an absurdity. cetics. Here Spanish bad taste and
From the anteroom of the Comares foreign Vandalism have done their
a passage, protected by iron gratings, worst. The vile tiled roof, fitter for
leads to the Moorish baths; this a barn than a palace, was clapped on
place is absurdly called el Carcel de la by the Irishman Wall in 1770-—a round
Reina, from supposing it to have been hat on a gorgeous Mameluke. The
the dungeon of ’Ayeshah. The de cockney garden was the work of the
fences are of Spanish construction, and French; that, thank God! has been
were put up in 1639 to protect the done away with recently. The repairs
royal plate-closet.The little patio and whitewashings are Spanish. Ay!
below is well reserved, for these de mi Alhambra!
bafms lay out of? the way of ordinary The patio is an hypethral quadri
ill-usage. They consist of El B(l1L0 lateral oblong of some ll6 feet by 66;
del Rey and El Buiio del Principe. 128 pillars of white marble ll feet high
The vapour-bath is lighted from above support a peristyle or portico on each
by small lumbreras or “ louvres.” The side, so say travellers of the line and
Moorish cauldron and leaden pipes rule class : at each end, two elegant pa
were sold by the daughters of Buca vilions project into the court. The co
relli. The Azulejos are curious. The l umns are placed sometimes singly,
arrangement of these baths is that still sometimes grouped; although they are
used in Cairo: the bathers undressed so slender that they scarcely seem
in the entrance saloon, and underwent able to support the arches, 5 centuries
in the Hararah, or the “ vapour-bath," of neglect have not yet destroyed this
the usual shampooings. The upper slight fairy thing of filigree, which
portion of the chamber of repose has has not even the appearance of dura
a gallery in which musicians were bility; wherever the destroyer has
placed. Among the inscriptions is mutilated the fragile ornaments, the
“ Glory to our Lord, Abfi-1-Hajaj temple-loving martlet, guest of sum
Yusfif, commander of the Moslems: mer, builds his nest, and careers in
may God render him victorious over the delicate air, breaking with his
his enemies! What is most to be twitter the silence of these sunny, now
wondered at is the felicity which deserted, courts, once made for Ori
310 norm; 25.—GRANADA. Sect. Ill.
ental enjoyment, and even now just the current underneath strives to op
the place to read the Arabian Nigltts pose its progress; like a lover whose
in, or spend a honeymoon. eyelids are pregnant with tears, and
The _/uente in the centre is a. (lode who suppresses them for fear of an in
cagon basin of alabaster, resting on former? for truly, what else is this
the backs of 12 lions, rudely and her fountain but a beneficent cloud pouring
aldically carved, and closely resembling out its abundant supplies over the
those of Apulia and Calabria, by which lions underneath, like the hands of the
tombs and pulpits of Norman-Saracenic Khalif, when he rises in the morning
mosaic work are supported. These to distribute plentiful rewards among
Arabian sculptures make up for want his soldiers, the -Lions of war? Oh!
of reality by a sort of quaint heraldic thou who beholdest these Lions crouch
antiquity; such were those described ing, fear not ; life is wanting to enable
by Arnobius (Adv. Gen. vi.), “ Inter them to show their fury: and Ohl
Deos videmus Leonis torvissimam thou, the heir of the Anssar, to thee,
faciem.” Their faces arebarbecued,and as the most illustrious offspring of a
their manes cut like scales of a grifiiu, collateral branch, belongs that ances
and the legs like bedposts, with the feet tral pride which makes thee look with
concealed by the pavement, while a contempt on the kings of all other
water-pipe stuck in their mouths does countries. May the blessings of God
not add to their dignity. Lions, from for ever be with thee! May he make
remote antiquity, have been used as thy subjects obedient to thy rule, and
supporters; the Oriental type will be grant thee victory over thy enemies!”
found in the throne of Solomon (1 Since the damages done by Sebas
Kings vii. 29; X. 20). In fact, the tian, the fountains of the amphibious
whole Alhambra must have been like Moor, which played here in all direc
the ancient and Byzantine palaces. tions, long remalned ruined and dry.
The Hypodromus, the “ portico with That of the Lions alone is restored,
a hundred pillars,” the Azulejo pave and occasionally is set in action. Some
ment, the cypresses, the net-work of of the most beautiful chambers of the
fountains, the sound of falling waters, Alhambra open into this court: begin
are all detailed by Martial (xii. 50) ning to the rt. is the Sula de los Aberr
and Pliny, jun. (Ep. v. 6), and such cerrages; the exquisite door was sawn
was the palace of Justinian described into pieces in 1837 by the barbarian
by Gibbon. The inscription round Spanish governor: observe the honey
the basin signifies, “ Blessed be He comb stalactite roof; the slender pillar
who gave the Imam Mohamed a man of the alcove explains how Samson
sion, which in beauty exceeds all pulled down the support of the house
other mansions; and if not so, here is of Dagon. The roof and Azulejos were
a garden containing wonders of art, repaired by Charles V.: the guide
the like of which God forbids should points out some dingy stains near the
elsewhere be found. Look at this fountain as the blood-marks of the
solid mass of pearl glistening all Abencerrages, massacred here by Boab
around, and spreading through the air dil : alas, that boudoirs made for love
its showers of prismatic bubbles, which and life should witness scenes of hatred
fall within_a circle of silvery froth, and death! And oh, dearest reader!
and flow amidst other jewels, surpass believe this and every tale of the Al
ing everything in beauty, nay, ex hambra, a sacred spot far beyond the
ceeding the marble itself in whitenessjurisdiction of matter-of-fact and pro
and transparency: to look at the basinsaic history: do not disenchant the
one would imagine it to be a mass of romance of poetry, the genius loci;
solid ice, and the water to melt from where fairies have danced their mystic
it; yet it is impossible to say which rings, flowers may spring, but mere
of the two is really flowing. Seest grass will never grow: above all,
thou not how the water from above eschew geology; deem not these spots
flows on the surface, notwithstanding ferruginous, for nothing is more cer
Ronda <§' Granada. ROUTE 25.—Tnn ALHAMBRA. 311
tain than that heroic blood never can l mals sewn together and nailed to the
be efiaced, still less if shed in foul dome‘: a fine coating of gypsum was
murder. Nor, according to Lady used as pi-iming—a common process
Macbeth, will all the perfumes of with the early Byzantine painters: the
Arabia mask the smell. This blood is ornaments on the gold ground are in
quite as genuine to all intents of ro relief; they are now, and have long
mance as is that of Rizzio at Holyrood been, neglected. It is to be wished
house, or of Becket at Canterbury. that these relics, which in any other
Beware, says Voltaire, “ des gens durs country would be preserved under
qui si disent solides, des esprits som glass, should be accurately copied the
bres qui prétendent an jugement full size, for the plates in Murphy are
parce-qu’ils sont dépourvus d’imagina beneath criticism, from their gross in
tion, qui veulent proscrire la belle an accuracy.
tiquité de la fable— gardez-vous bien Of the many beautiful arches in this
do les croire.” building, few surpass that which opens
At the E. end of the court are 3 into the central saloon; observe the
saloons of extremely rich decoration: archivolt, spandrels, and inscriptions:
the Sula de Justicia is so called from surface lace-like ornamentation never
an assemblage of 10 bearded Moors was carried beyond this. In the
seated in a council or divan, which is last of the 3 rooms the cross was
painted on the ceiling. According to first placed by Cardinal Mendoza, and
Mendoza (Guer. de Gran. 1), the the identical one is preserved at To
portraits represent the successors of ledo. Ferdinand “ purified ” these
King Bulharix; all this is sheer non once gorgeous saloons, that is, white
sense-—but they, painted about 1460, washed them, and introduced his and
deserve notice as giving the true his wife’s badges, the yoke and the
costume of the Granada Moor; the bundle of arrows. And there is a
other pictures represent chivalrous moral in these symbols, which Spa
and amorous subjects, all naturally niards now-a-days will not understand:
tending to the honour of the‘ Moor, they inculcate “ ui1ion,” the “ drawing
whose royal shield is seen everywhere: together,” and a fair equality, instead
in one a Moor unliorses a Christian of struggle for pre-eminence. It was
warrior; another represents a captive by Arragon and Castilc’s “ pulling to
lady leading a chained lion, while she gether” that the Moorish house, di
is delivered from a wild man bya vided against itself, was overthrown.
knight. Observe a game of draughts Opposite to the Sala de los Aben
(the dzimeli of the Arab, the aux dames cerrages is that of Las dos Ilerwumas, so
of France); also the boar-hnntings, called from the 2 slabs of Macael marble,
with ladies looking out of turreted sisters in colour and form, which are let
castles, Christians on horseback, Moors into the pavement. This formed a por
in sweeping robes, with a background tion of the private apartments of the
of trees, buildings, birds, animals, Moorish kings, of which so much has
magpies, and rabbits, painted like an been destroyed, and the alcoves or sleep
illuminated book of the fifteenth cen ing-rooms on each side give it the
tury, or a dream of Chaucer’s :— character of a residence. This Sala
i “ On the walls old portraiture and its adjuncts is unequalled for the
Of horsemen, hawkes, and houndes, beauty and symmetry of the ornaments,
And hartes dire all full of woundes.”
the stalactite roof and general richness,
It is not known by whom these pic notwithstanding the degradation and
tures, unique considering the period, defilemcnts perpetrated during the sad
persons, and locality, were executed, long years of Spanish misrule. What
probably by some Christian renegado. must it once have been, cum tales sunt
They are painted in bright colours, reliquiael Well may one of the inscrip
which are still fresh; the tints are tions invite iis to “ Look attentively
fiat, and were first drawn in outline in at my elegance, and thou wilt reap
a. brown colour, and on skins of ani the benefit of a commentary on decora
it

312 ROUTE 25.—GRANADA. Sect. III.


tion; here are columns ornamented robe after setting the jewels of my dia
with every perfection, and the beauty dem. People compare me to the
of which has become proverbial—co throne of a. bride; yet I surpass it in
lumns which, when struck by the rays this, that I can secure the felicity of
of the rising sun, one might fancy, those who possess me."
notwithstanding their colossal dimen Such is the Alhambra in its decayed
sions, to be so many blocks of pearl; and fallen state, unvisited save by
indeed, we never saw a palace more the twittering martlet, who, like the
lofty than this in its exterior, or more stranger, comes with the spring and
brilliantly decorated in its interior, or flies away with the last smile of sum
having more extensive apartments.” mer; now it is but the carcase of what
This beautiful saloon was made a it was when vivified by a living soul ;
work-shop under Montilla, and in 18-'32 now it is the tomb, not the home of the
was mutilated by the corporation of Moor. It may disappoint those who,
Granada, who employed a dauber, fonder of the present and a cigar than
one Muriel, to put up some paltry of the past and the abstract, arrive
things for a féte given to the lnfante heated with the hill, and are thinking
Francisco de Paula, for which the of getting back to an ice, a dinner, and
Moorish decorations were ruthlessly a siesta. Again, the nonsense of an
broken, and the “ marks ofthe beast" nuals has fostered an .over-exaggerated
are yet visible. The entrance to this notion of a place which from the
Sala passes under some most elaborate dreams of boyhood has been fancy
engrailed arches with rich intersecting formed as a fabric of the Genii. Few
ornaments; observe the Oriental me airy castles of illusion will stand the
thod of hanging the doors. Above is prosaic test of reality, and nowhere
an upper story with latticed windows, less than in Spain. But to understand
through which the “ dark-eyed,” or the Alhambra, it must be lived in, and
Hauras of the Hareem, could view the beheld, as we have done so often, in
fétes below, themselves unseen and the semi-obscure evening, so beauti
guarded, the idols of a secret shrine, ful of itself in the South, and when
treasures too precious to be gazed upon ravages are less apparent, than when
by any one but their liege lord. This fiouted by the gay day-glare. At twi
u-rzeq/av and I‘uvaw¢:mv is similar in conlight it becomes entirely a vision of the
struction to those used still in the East past, for daylight dispels the dreamy
. andin Tetuan ; but here, as elsewhere, haunted air, and we begin to examine,
everything proves the extent of Spanish measure, and criticise, while on astilly
destruction, which has swept away the summer night all is again given up
important portions of the Seraglio or to the past and to the Moor: then,
Hareem, and rendered, as Owen Jones when the moon, Dian’s bark of pearl,
says, even an imaginary restoration of floats above it in the air like his cres
the original building impossible. cent symbol, the tender beam heals the
At the end ofthe Sula is a charming scars, and makes them contribute to
window looking into the Patio de Lin the sentiment of widowed, loneliness.
clcmja, which Charles V. disfigured with The wan rays tip the filigree arches,
» hisbrickadditions. ThisVentanaandits semant les murs de trefles blancs; a
alcove were the boudoir of the Sultana, depth is then given to the shadows, and
on which poetry and art exhausted a misty undefined magnitude to the sa
their efforts; all the varieties of form loons beyond, which sleep in darkness
and colour which adorn other por and silence, broken only by the drony
tions of the Alhambra are here united. flight of some bat. The reflections in
The inscriptions, to those who do not the ink-black tank glitter, like sub
understand Arabic, appear to be only aqueous silver palaces of Undines ; as we
beautiful and complex scroll-work; linger in the recesses of the windows,
while to the initiated they sing below lies Granada, with its busy hum,
“ Praise to God ! Delicately have the and the lights sparkle like stars on the - ‘
fingers of the artist embroidered my obscure Albaicin as if we were looking
Ronda {V Granada. norms 25.—nn.L or rm: ALHAMBRA. 313
down on the ciclo bajo, or reversed fir now isolated in the garden below, of
mament. The baying of the dog and which the mi/zrab, or holy niche for
the tinkling of a guitar, indicatin life the Koran, is most elaborate. Near
there, increase the desolation 0 the this a modern mosque has been erected,
Alhambra. Then in proportion as all or rather a sort of caricature summer
here around is dead do the fancy and house, which is admired by the natives,
imagination become alive, the_ halls and this even in the Alhambra 1 Here
and courts seem to expand into a also among weeds lie the two Moorish
larger size: the shadows of the cy lions, which formerly were in the
presses on the walls assume the forms Casa de Moneda.
of the dusky Moor, revisiting his lost Continuing lower down is the Moor
home in the glimpses of the moon, ish postern gate, La Torre del Pica,
while the night winds, breathing but the machicolations are of the time
through the nnglazed windows and of the Catholic sovereigns. The French
myrtles, rustle as his silken robes, or intended to blow this tower up, as a
sigh like his lament over the profana parting legacy; the holes made by
tion of the infidel and the defilement their miners yet remain, and prove
of the unclean destroyer. their good intentions, but the procras
The Alhambra hill is about 2690 ft. tination of their agent, Farses, saved
long by 730 ft. in its widest part; the the building. From this gate a path,
walls average 30 ft. high and 6 ft. crossin the ravine, leads up to the
thick: shaped like a grand piano, Genera ifs; return, however, first, to
with the point to the Torre de la Vela; the Casa Sanchez. In the garden oppo
it is girdled with walls and towers. site was the house, for it no longer
Many of these, exquisitely ornamented, exists, of the Conde de Tendilla, the
formed the detached residences of fa first Alcaide of the Alhambra. The
vourite sultanas, royal children, and fruit grown on this spot is especially
great ofiicers. Leaving the palace by a exquisite. The bones of the gallant
small door at the hall of justice, is an Tendilla were placed under the high
open space, on which a few years ago, altar in the adjoining convent of Fran
was a fine Moorish tank, now filled ciscans, founded by himself; these
~ up with rubbish by galley-slaves. To Sebastiani scattered to the winds, mak
the rt. is a small Alameda, and the ing the place a barrack for Polish
parish ch., La Santa Maria, built lancers; here the body of the Great
in 1581, by Juan de Vega, which Captain was placed until removed to
was turned into a magazine under San Jeronimo; and here also, under
Sebastiani ; on the S. side, let into the the two engrailed Moorish arches,
wall, is a Gothic stone, found in dig long rested the cofiins of Ferdinand
ging the foundations, and recording and Isabella, until their sepulchre in
the restoration of 3 churches by one the cathedral was finished: pillaged
Gudilla; observe the use of ser and desecrated by Sebastiani, this con
vulos operarios, instead of the ablative, vent has since been turned into a maga
as an early instance of the change zine by the Spaniards.
taking place in grammatical Latinity. The grand mosque of the Alhambra
Following the outer wall to the 1. is the stood near; it was built in 1308 by
Casa del Observatorio, so called from Mohammed lII., and is thus described
its mirador, or Casa Sanchez, from by lbnu-l-Khattib :-—It is “ornamented
having been the dwelling of honest with Mosaic work, and exquisite tra
Sanchez, our most trustworthy mule cery of the most beautiful and intri
teer, who now lives in the Alhambra, cate patterns, intermixed with silver
Puerta del Carril, and may be most flowers and graceful arches, supported
safely employed. Once most pictur by innumerable pillars of the finest
esque, inside and outside, and beloved polished marble; indeed, what with
by every artist, in 1837 it was ruined by the solidity of the structure, which
a barbarian cmpleado. To this was the Sultan inspected in person, the
attached a Moorish Zllezquila, which is elegance of the design, and the beauty
Spain.—I. P
314 IIOUTE 25.——GEN'l£RALlFl-I. Sect. III.
of the proportions, the building has from the Sierra del Sol. Ascending
not its like in this country; and I amid figs and vines is the Generulije
have frequently heard our best archi- - —Jennatu-l-’arif, the “ garden of the
tects say that they had never seen or architect,” of whom Isma’il-Ibn-Faraj,
heard of a building which can be the Sultan, purchased the site in 1320.
compared to it.” This, continues This mountain villa, Senectutisnidulus,
Gayangos, was in very good preserva now belongs to the Marquis of Campo
tion until the ruthless occupation of tejar, of the Grimaldi Gentili family.
Sebastiani, when it was entirely de He is an absentee, living at Genoa, so
stroyed. the real owner, as usual, is the admi
Turning hence, again, to the walls, nistrador. This is a villa of waters;
visit La '1brre ale lus lqfantus, once the
the canal of the Darro empties here its
residence of the Moorish princesses, full virgin stream ; it boils through the
now of squalid poverty; to the 1. are 2 court under evergreen arches, while an
other towers, called those of del Cundil open colonnade overlooks the Alham
and de las Cautivus ; the latter con bra, no longer seeming like a filigree
tains elegant arches and delicate Tark boudoir, but a grand sombre solid mass
ish. Continuing to the rt. is the corner of fortress. The paltry chapel is not
tower, de la Agua; here an aqueduct, worth visiting; the living-rooms are
stemming the most picturesque ravine, at the head of the court, but the inmates
supplies the hill with water. The re and furniture present a miserable
treating invaders blew up this and the contrast with Moorish forms and colour.
next tower, and had they succeeded, as Observe the arches and arabesques;
they wished, in destroying the aque here are some bad and apocryphal por
duct, the Alhambra would have become traits ; one of El Rey Chico is dressed
again :1 desert. Other Corsican-injured like Francois I. in yellow and black fur,
towers now intervene between “ Los and has the inoffensive look of a man
Siete Suelos,” the 7 stories, or the fitter to lose than to win a throne; here
former grand gate by which Boabdil is also a bad portrait of the Great Cap
tain, in black and gold : ditto of Fer
went out, descending to the Xenil by
the Puerta de los Molinos: hence it dinand aud Isabella. Observe the ge
was afterwards walled up, as being a nealogical tree of the Grimaldi ; the
gate of bad omen. This is a pure founder, Cidi Aya, a Moorish infante,
Orientalism. So likewise, when princes aided Ferdinand at the conquest, and
came in, “ This gate shall be shut, it became a Christian by the name of
shall not be opened, no man shall Don Pedro ; here also is his son Alonso,
enter in by it" (Ezek. xliv. 2). All trampling like a renegado on Moorish
was wantonly blown up by the enemy. flags ; the sword of the Rey Chico was
The walls were 14 ft. thick, but what the greatest curiosity of the house.
can withstand “ villainous saltpetre?” Visit the cypresses, the “ trysting
Whatever escaped did so by lucky ac place ” of the Sultana ; which are
cident, and now the ruins of 6 towers, enormous, and old as the Moors; the
their fragments of embroidery and por frail Zoraya is said to have been dis
celain, testify what they once were; covered undcr them, with her lover, the
all this quarter, with the Moorish Abencerrage ; but all this is a calumny
palace of the Mufti and La Casa de Ias of Romanceros, and time out of mind
Viudas, was levelled by Sebastiani to trees have borne false witness, like the
make an exercising-ground for his “ Holm and Mastick” of the chaste
soldiers. Passing the Puerta del Cm-1-il, Susanna. The guides, however, point
by which carriages enter the Alhambra, them out, exactly as the myrtles at
the circuit is completed. Trmzene, under which Phaedra became
To visit the Generalife, pass out at enamoured of Hippolytus, were shown
the Puerta del Pica ; to the l. are the in the days of Pausanias (i. 22, 2), and
remains of the stables of the Moorish the tree in Crete, under which Zeus
guard. A deep and romantic ravine and Europa dallied, was a lion in the
now divides the hill of the Alhambra time of Theophrastus (Hist. Plant. i. 9).
Ronda <§' Granada. nourn 25.-GRANADA. 315
Behind these cypresses is a raised The convent de los Martires, where
garden, with flights of Italian steps, bishop Pedro Gonzalo was martyrised
perforated with fountains; ascending in 1456, and the first chapel built by
are some remains of Moorish tanks, and the Catholic kings, has been seques
among them the well-built Algiée de tered, and is pulled down for the sake
la Lluuia, about which the guides tell a of its materials. The garden, with
stupid story of Don John of Austria’s its little aqueduct, is pretty. Next
thirsty troops : the palace of Los Alix visit the barranco or ravine behind it,
ares, which stood above, has disap where gipsies live in troglodyte bur
peared; indeed, whatever escaped the rows, amid aloes and prickly pears.
Spaniard has been swept away by the The dark daughters of Moultan sit in
Gaul. On the top of the hill is a knoll their rags under their vines, while
called the Moor’s chair, la Silla del their elfin brats beg of a stranger an
Moro ; here are the ruins of a Moorish ochavico. Hence to the Cumpo del
building and of the Spanish chapel Principe-—the parish ch. of San Ce
of Santa Elena, which Sebastiani's cilio is said to have been a Mosarabic
ravagers clambered up to overturn: and has the privilege of ringing its
the view is splendid ; that, thank God ! bell on Good Friday, when all other
never can ‘be defiled or destroyed. Re belfries are mute, and so on to the
turn to Granada by the Generalife and fine convent, Santa Domingo, which
the cypress avenue; thence, over an now serves for the Museo. The noble
unirrigated and therefore tawny waste, facade is by Diego de Siloe. The in
to the Cumpo Santa or burial-ground. terior chapel is all frippery, and the
This truly miserable place is a true altar del Rosario of outrageous churri
thing of Spain—a land without taste or gueresque; the collection of pictures
tenderness. Those who dislike ceme are unmitigated rubbish. Granada never
teries may, on leaving the Generalife had much fine art, and all the best dis
avenue, turn to the rt. by the public appeared during the invasion and re
gardens to the site of the convent de forms. Sebastiani got the lion’s share.
las Martires. He employed Argote as his jackal, from
The curious Mazmorras on the whose mouth we had the details of his
platform have been filled up; these doings as duly recorded in our previous
artificial excavations are remnants of editions. Among the least bad pictures
the Moor, the modern Moorish term now here are the portraits of Ferdinand
is metamor ; malmorra in Arabic and Isabella by Antonio Rz'ncon—the
means “ a prison,” for, like the Aaaiw Mabuse of Spain. These probably are
of the Athenians, herein were guarded the identical pictures alluded to by Cean
either corn or convicts. The dun Bermudez (Dic. iv. 198). There are
geons of the Inquisition at Seville also specimens of the conceited second
were called Mazmorras. These grana rate Atanasio Bocanegra, and a parcel of
ries were invented in Egypt. Such San Brunos and Carthusians b J .
were the “ storehouses” of Joseph Sanchez Cotan. Observe the po able
(Gen. xli. 56). The use of them passed altar from the St. Jerome Convent,with
thence into Thrace, Africa, and Spain. 6 fine enamels on copper, in the style
Consult Pliny, ‘ N.H.’ xviii. 30, and of Jean Penicaud of Limoges, unfortu
Varro, ‘ R. R.’ i. 57. In these, Syros, nately the original mounting ha_s been
Eng“/;, grain was preserved for more destroyed. Notice also some carvingby
than 50 years, and they were admirably Mora and Risuefio, pupils of Cano. The
contrived for concealment during the works ofthis chiefofthe Granadaschool
forays of invaders ( Hirt. ‘ Bell. Afr.’ have been so effectually “-removed_"
65). At Burjasot, near Valencia, they by Sebastiani and Co., that were it
are still called Silos, probably a cor not for the cathedral he would scarcely
ruption of the ancient name, since be represented in the very city on
Scilo in Basque signifies an “ excava which he lavished his talents. Next
tion ;” they are lined with a cement, visit the convent gardens, and espe
like the Moorish water-tanks. cially the Cuarto Real, which was a
P 2
316 ROUTE 2 5 .——GRANADA—THE DARRO . Sect. III.
royal Moorish villa. The approach is called from the finding certain sacred
under a high embowered archway of bones and relics, to which arc attri
bays and enormous myrtles. Observe buted the sweetness and fertilizing
the saloons and the Azulejo, with Cufic quality of the stream. The walks on
inscriptions in green, white, and blue. both sides of this swift arrowy Darro
The white tiles with golden scrolls up this hill are delicious: the stream
occur nowhere else. The painted gambols down the defile; hence its
Tar/zish was whitewashed by the Arabic name Hddar-oh, from Hadar,
French; this garden was called by “ rapidity in flowing." The Romans
the Moors Almanjara, and the suburb called the river Salon. Gold is found
Vib-al Fajarin. lt was ceded, April 5, in the bed; whence some wiseacres,
1492, to Alonso de Valiza, prior of catching at sound, have derived the
Santa Cruz, of Avila. Of the two name Darro, “ quasi dat aurum;” and
gardens, the larger belonged to Dalla in 1526 a crown was given to Isabel,
horra, mother of Muley Hacen, and wife of Charles V., made from diminute
the smaller, which, in 1615, was built nuggets found in this Pactolus. Here
over by the monks, to the Alcalde amphibious gold-fishers still puddle in
Mofarax. The original deed was the eddies, earning a hard and miser
copied into the Libra Becerro of the able livelihood in groping for poor
convent, from which we made an ab diggings; nugae difiiciles. The gorge
stract. The “livery of seisin” was through which it flows under the
thus :—D0n Alonso entered the garden Generalife was the Harariz, or “ Gar
pavilion, affirming loudly that he took den of Recreation,” of the Moors, and
possession; next he opened and shut was studded with villas. The Darro,
the door, giving the key to Macafrcto, after washing the base of the Alham
a well-known householder of Granada; bra, flows under the Plaza nueva, being
he then went into the garden, cut oft‘ arched over, and when swelled by
a bit of a tree with his knife, and dug rains, there is always much risk of its
up some earth with his spade. Such was blowing up this covering. Such, says
the practice of Moorish conveyancers. the Seguidilla, is the portion which
Passing out by the Puerta del Pes Darro will bear to his bride the Xenil.
cado is a Moorish gateway with 3 “ Darro time prametido,
arches. Return now to the Campillo, El casarse con Xenil,
the “ little field,” or space, opposite the Y le ha dc llevar en dole
inn, and the site of the monument to Plaza nueva y Zacatin."
the unfortunate Maria Pineda and the The Moorish Zacutin—Arabicé Zacca;
actor Isidoro Maiquez; tragedy and streets, passages—is as antique as the
farce. The theatre is tolerable, and Spanish Plaza nueva is modern. In
was built by the French, who, to en summer it is covered with an awning,
large this place, took down a portion of a toldo, which gives a cool and tenty
the Moorish citadel, El Bibautaubin, look. Go, without fail, ye artists, to
which was formerly surrounded by the back part, the respaldos, and sketch
walls and towers ; one tower still exists the Prout-like houses and toppling
below Fonda del Comercio, imbedded balconies, so old that they seem
in a modern barrack, the portal of only not to fall. Here is every form
which is churrigueresque, and worthily and colour of picturesque poverty;
guarded by statues of Hogarth-like vines clamber up the irregularities,
grenadiers. Here is the Carrera del while below naiads dabble, washing
Darro, or public walk, with planted their red and yellow garments in the
avenues, which communicates with the all-gilding glorious sunbeams. The
Alameda on the Xenil, and is much Darro reappears at the end of its career
frequented in the mornings of winter, at the “ Carrera,” and then marries
and the evenings of summer. itself to the Xenil. This——the Singilis
The Darro rises from the hill of of the Romans, the Shingil of the Moor
myrtles near Huetor, and approaches —fl0ws from the Sierra Nevada through
Granada under the Monte Sacro, a hill so a most alpine country. The waters,
Ronda 5' Granada. ROUTE 25.—GRA’.\IADA—THE XENIL. 317
composed of melted snow, are un Granada. Walk up the Carrcm del
wholesome, as, indeed, are most of Darro, to the celebrated‘Plaza de Vi
those of'Granada, which have a pur b zmmfil/1, the “ gate of the river :" the
gative tendency. The Moorish poets, Moorish arch struggles amid modern
who saw in the Xenil the life-blood of additions, incongruous but not unpic
the Vega, the element of wealth, com turesque. The old gate is called dc las
pared its waters to “ melted gold flow orejzrs, because at a festival in 1621
ing between emerald banks.” “ What the mob tore ofl' the ears of many
has Cairo to boast of with her Nile, ladies to get the rings; formerly it
since Granada has a thousand Niles P” was called de los cuchillos, because here
The letter she, sheen, has the numerical
the police stuck up the dagger-knives
value of a thousand; hence the play on found on rogues; the modern gate is
the name Xenil. called de lus cucharras, of the spoons:
The artist will, of course, trace this pleasant and poetical nomenclature!
Xenil up to its glacier sources, from The quaint Moorish Plaza was con
whence it gushes, pure, cold, and verted by the Spaniards into a market
chaste. Far from cities, and free from place : one row of old Moorish houses,
their drains and pollutions, the waters with squarish windows, remained on
descend through a bosom of beauty, the N. side, so lately as 1843, when
jealously detained at every step by they were pulled down by one Ramon
some garden, which wooes its embrace, Crook, and the present buildings in the
and drains off its affection. The fickle Baker-street style erected. This is the
impatient stream, fretted at every stone square so famous in ballad song for the
which opposes its escape, enters Gra Cufias, or the Jereed, and the bull
nada under the Antequerula, and is fightings of Gazul. Here the pageantry
crossed by a bridge built by Sebastiani, of Pasos and Corpus Christi are dis
who, laid out a botanical garden on the played; the members of the Ayunta
banks, which the Spaniards destroyed miento looking on from their appro
on his departure, carrying their Iberian priate Casas dc los Miraclores. Recently
hatred and vengeance from persons to this place has been “ lighted and im
things and even benefits. The Salon, proved,” whereby its Moorish charac
or fine walk, was much improved in ter and ballad interest is ruined and
1826 by Gen. Campana. The Bomba all the associations put to flight by the
fountain is vastly admired by the prose of commonplace civilisation.
natives, but the other sculptural deco On market-days sorts of booths and
rations are in the vilest art: never stalls are put up, much like the tents
were pomegranates worse imitated than of an Arab Douar. The fruit is very
in this town of Granada, which teems fine, especially the grapes, figs, an(l
with real models, and once was cele melons: the latter are piled in heaps
brated for its Alonso Canos and carvers. like cannon-shot; few, however, of
The beauty and fashion of Granada the arsenals of Spain can vie with
congregate on this Alameda, which is this supply of natural artillery. The
constantly injured by overfloodings. figs pass all praise, from the fleshy
The Xenil and Darro unite below it, purple Breba to the small greengage
and, after cleansing the town of its looking later fruit. The B1-eba or
sewers, are “ sangrado,” or drained, early fig is here, as in the East, thought
themselves for the irrigation of the unwholesome, and leading to bad con
Vega. The Xenil, soon increased by sequences (Hosea ix. 10); by which
infinite mountain tributaries, unites, few transpyrenean travellers seem to be
a noble stream, with the Guadalquivir, deterred. Keeping along the l. side,
near Ecija. The grand fete on this enter the Pescuderia; the old wooden
Alameda is St. John’s Eve, when at 12 balconies will delight the artistical eye
o’clock, at the cry of las doce, all rush as much as the ancient fish-like smell
into the Xenil to wash their faces and of the shambles will offend the nose.
thus ensure good complexions. To the N. of the Plaza is the palace of
There is not much else to be seen in the archbishop,whose sermons Gil Blas
318 ROUTE 25 -onANA1)A—TnE carnnnnan. Sect. III.
was simple enough to criticise. The whence this name, quickly will smell
irregular pile has been modernised, and a stranger, and yell from behind the
contains nothing remarkable. The grating for charity and food like wild
cathedral adjoins it, and was built on beasts who have not been fed. Opposite
the site of the great mosque, when the is the Puerta del Perdon, an unfinished
gothic style was going out of fashion. cinque-cento plateresque portal of the
It is by no means a fine building, al time of Charles V., by Diego dc Siloe.
though the Gnumlizws think it a rival Entering the cathedral at the W.,
to St. Peter’s. Walk round it; it is the glaring whitewash is most offen
blocked up by mean houses and streets; sive: this iniquity was perpetrated
the open W. front is unfinished, while in order to please Philip V. Two door
the heavy N. tower, of Doric, lonic, ways, one of the Sula Capitular and
and Corinthian orders, wants the upper that opposite, are left undefiled, and
story; and the other, which was to shame, with their sober, creamy tone,
have been its companion, is not even the cold glare around. The cathedral
begun. The lover of Cano will visit was built in the pagan Graeco-Romano
his obrador in the tower. The grand style, just when the Christian Gothic
entrance is divided by 3 lofty lancet was going out of fashion. It was begun
recesses, broken by circular windows; March 15, 1529, from designs of Diego
the cornice is crowned with pyramidi de Siloe, in the Corinthian order, but
cal vases. The facade is, moreover, without good proportion, either in
paganised with grinning masks, rams’ height or width. The groined roof of
horns, and unfinished festoons. All the five naves is supported by piers
this vile sculpture is by local artists, composed of four Corinthian pillars
the twins de Rojas, de Ueeda, Risueno, placed back to back, and on dispropor
and others not worth naming. The tioned pedestals. The coro, as usual,
market-groups all around are much occupies the heart of the centre nave ;
better worth the painter’s notice. the trascoro is churrigueresque, and
Walking to the rt., you pass the made up of red marble, with black
plateresque front of the archbishop’s knobs and white statues; those at the
palace, a casa de rulones, although Le corners, of heroes and heroines in
Sage, who never was in Spain, describes Louis XIV. periwigs, were placed there
it as rivalling a king‘s palace in mag to gratify Philip V. The organ is plas
nificence. There are a good many tered with gilding. The white and grey
very bad pictures inside. Close ad marble pavement is handsome: the E.
joining is the Sagrariu. Then rises end is circular: the high altar is iso
the royal chapel, of the rich Gothic of lated and girdled by an architectural
1510. The Berruguete doorway is frame. The admirable Cimborio rises
later, and was built by Charles V. 220 ft.: observe the noble arch, 190 ft.
Observe the “ St. John,” the patron of high, which opens to the coro.
the Catholic sovereigns. Thus, their The dome is painted in white and
eldest son was called Juan, their gold. The efiigies of Ferdinand and
daughter Juana, so the apostolic eagle Isabella kneel at the sides of the high
was their armorial supporter, and their altar: above and let into circular re
convents were dedicated to San Juan cesses are the colossal heads by Adam
de los Re]/es as their royal apostle. and Eve, carved and painted by Alonso
The Cams del Cubilzlo opposite are Cano; by him also are the seven grand
in outrageous churrigueresque : observe pictures relating to the Virgin, whose
a truncated Roman pillar, inscribed temple this is. They are her “ Annun
“ Furize Sabinaa.” The once exquisite ciation,” “ Conception,” “ Nativity,"
old Gothic house in the Calle de la “ Presentation,” “ Visitation," “ Puri
Mesa Redonda was recently modernised fication," and “ Ascension.” They can
by a modern Goth named Heredia. be closely examined from an upper
Turning to the l., enter the Culle de gallery, but then they seem very
la Carr.-el, “the prison-street;” the coarsely painted, because destinedito
gaunt unshorn inmates of the house, be seen from below, and at a distance.
Ronda 5' Granada. nourn 25.-—GRANADA.——~CATHEDRAL. 319
Cano (1601, ob. 1667) was the l11l110I‘l expended his large private fortune in
canon, or Racionero, of this cathedral, works of piety and beneficence. He
which he has enriched with the works was brutally treated by Sebastiani, who
of his chisel and brush, and under its “ removed ” his fine pictures and
quire he lies buried. Observe by him ; melted his superb gold custodia; but
an exquisitely carved “ Virgin and fortunately his magnificence in this
Child,” once placed at the top of the chapel was not wholly displayed in
Facistol in the coro, but recently re metallies of value to melt. The single
moved for safety to the altar of Jesus slab of the altar was brought from
Nazarelzo, a precaution not unneces Macael: the red marbles came from
sary, as the San Pablo by Ribera was Luque: the four serpentine pillars from
stolen in 1842: the child is inferior, the Baranco de San Juan (see p. 328).
and possibly by another hand. By The eologist will also remark, in the
him in the Capilla de Ia Santa Cruz Capi la dc la Virgen del Pilar, which
are the heads of St. John the Baptist, is exactly opposite that of San Miguel,
full of death, and of St. Paul, full of some singular pillars brought from
spirit; being of the natural size, they, Loja by Archbishop Galvan. This
however, look too much like anatomical chapel is much frequented by true be
preparations: the essence of sculpture lievers from its multitude of indul
is form, and, when colour is added, it gences and privileges.
is attempting too much, and we miss Behind the equestrian figure of
the one thing wanting—‘ life. Over the Santiago, and too high up to be well
door of the Sala Capitular is a “ Cha seen, is a Florentine copy of a Virgin
rity,” by Torrigiano, executed as a and Child, painted by St. Luke, which
sample of his talent when he came to was given to Isabella by Innocent VIII.,
Granada to compete for the “ Scpulchre and before which mass is said every
of the Catholic Sovereigns :” it is a January 2nd, the day of the conquest
Michael-Angelesque picture in marble. of Granada, when it is lowered for
Among the paintings observe, in the public adoration. In the Capilla de la
Capilla de la Trinidad and Jesus Na Antigua, so called from the Image
zarene, three by Ribera—St. Anthony, found in a cave, and used by Ferdinand
St. Jerome, and St. Lawrence; four as a battle banner, are two curious
by Cano, and not very fine—a Saviour portraits of Ferdinand and Isabella,
bearing his Cross, St. Augustine, a copied by Juan de Sevilla after Rincon;
Virgin, and a Trinidad, the Father the light is bad, and these historical
bearing the Dead Son: the large gems are sadly neglected, that of the
pictures in the transept are by Pedro king having a hole in it. They are
Atanasio Bocanegra, a disciple of Cano, represented kneeling at prayers under
who exaggerated one defect of his rich canopies; the king is clad in
1naster—-the smallness of the heels of armour, the queen in a blue and mo
children. Bocanegra was a vain man, roon cloak. Reds are the prevalent
and painted pictures larger in size colours, and the style is Venetian.
than in merit. Observe, however, the The image of the Virgin itself is
“ Virgin and San Bernardo” and the very sacred : of the time of the Goths,
“ Scourging.” it revealed itself miraculousl ' at Avila,
In the Capilla de San Jiliguel, the and was brou ht by Ferdinand and
first to the rt. on entering, is a fine Isabella to the siege of Granada, and set
melancholy Cano, called “ La Virgen up at -San Sebastian, to whom Mar
de la Suledad,” which recalls the statue shal Sebastiani was no kiusman. In
of Becerra in the San Isidro at Madrid, the detached Sacristia is a charming
and is indeed the type of this subject. “ Concepcion,” carved by Cano, with his
This chapel was decorated with mar peculiar delicate hands, small mouth,
bles, in 1804, by Archbishop Juan full eyes, and serious expression; also
Manuel Moscoso y Peralta, and finished by him, in the Oratorio, is a “ Virgin”
in the fatal 1808. One of the best of 1n blue drapery, and very dignified,’
Spain’s great prelates, this good man also a Crucifix by Becerra.
320 ROUTE 25.—GRANADA—CAPILLA DE LOS REYES. Sect. III.
The Capilla dc los Reyes, placed Roman fasciw—a.re precisely those still
between the Sagrario and Sacristiu, worn at Tetuan by their descendants,
is the gem of the cathedral. The who thus, as Orientals do not change
rich Gothic portal, having escaped the stockin s or fashions, corroborate the
Bourbon whitewash, contrasts with truth o these monuments.
the glare around. It is elaborately In the centre of the chapel are two
wrought with emblems of heraldic magnificent sepulchres, wrought, so
pride and religious humility. The in it is said, at Genoa by Peralta, in de
terior is impressive; silence reigns in licate alabaster; on these are extended
this chamber of the dead, and accords the marble figures of the Catholic
with the tender sentiment which the sovereigns, and those of their next
solemn Gothic peculiarly inspires. successors. Ferdinand and Isabella
This royal chapel, like that of St. slumber side by side, life’s fitful
Ferdinand at Seville, is independent of fever o’er, in the peaceful attitude of
the cathedral, and has its separate their long and happy union; they con
chapter and chaplains, and is divided trast, the ruling passion strong in
into two rtions. The Caro alto is death, with the averted countenances
adorned with the shields and badges of of Juana, their weak daughter, and
the Catholic sovereigns. The superb Philip, her handsome but worthless
Reja, of iron, partly gilt, was made, in husband. Observe carefully the de
1522, by el Maestre Bartolomé, whose tails of these urnus and the ornaments:
name is near the keyhole. in that of Ferdinand and Isabella the
On each side of the high altar four doctors of the church are at the
kneel carved efligies of the king and corners, with the twelve apostles at the
queen, which are very remarkable, sides: Ferdinand wears the Garter,
being exact representations of their Isabella the Cross of Santiago. Their
faces, forms, and costumes: behind faces are portraits: their costume is
Ferdinand is the victorious banner of very simple. Analogous is the uma
Castile, while the absorbing policy for of Philip of Burgundy and Juana la
which both lived and died-the cou Loc|4—-crazy Jane. They are both
quest of the Moor and the conversion of gorgeously attired: he wears the
the infidel—are embodied behind them Golden Fleece. The decorations are
in singular painted carvings; these cinque-cento, and some of the sculp
have been attributed to Felipe Vigarny, tured children are quite Raphaelesque.
and are certainly of the highest anti These royal sepulchres are superb.
quarian interest. In that which repre The statue of Isabella is admirable;
sents the surrender of the Alhambra, her smile is as cold and her look is as
Isabella, on a white palfrey, rides be placid, as moonlight sleeping on snow :
tween Ferdinand and third king, “ the --— “in questa forma
great cardinal” Mendoza; he sits on Passa la bella donna e par che dorma."
his trapped mule, like Wolsey, and She died indeed far from Granada, but
alone wears gloves ; his pinched aqui desired to be buried here, in the
line face contrasts with the chubbiness brightest pearl of her crown. The
of the king and queen. He opens his sentiment is truly touching, and the
hand to receive the key, which the effect aimed at is fully produced: the
dismounted Boabdil presents, holding subject is the Chi-istian’s death, who,
it by the wards. Behind are ladies, stretched on the tomb, has et the
knights, and halberdiers, while cap hope of another and a better li e. Isa
tives come out from the gates in pairs. bella was the Elizabeth of Spain, the
Few things of the kind in Spain can brightest star of an age which pro
be more curious. The other basso-re duced Ximenez, Columbus, and the
lievo records the “ Conversion of the Great Captain, all of whom rose to
Infidel.” The reluctant flock is bap full growth under her smile, and
tised in the wholesale by shorn monks. withered at her death. She is one of
Observe the costumes: the mufliers the most faultless characters in his
and leg-wrappers of the women——the tory, one of the purest sovereigns who
Ronda §' Granada. ROUTE 25.—'r0MBs or REYES CATOLICOS. 321
ever graced or dignified a throne, who, ramids—form the common monuments
“ in all her relations of queen or wo and the best histories of these, the true
man,” was, in the words of Lord Ba founders of their conntry’s shortlived
con, “ an honour to her sex and the greatness. Then it was, in the words of
corner-stone of the greatness of Spain.” an eye-witness, “ that Spain spread her
For the true character of the Ca wings over a wider sweep of empire,
tholic sovereigns consult Prescott’s and extended her name of glory to the
excellent work, or Shaksperc, who, far antipodes.” Then it was that her
understanding human character by in flag, on which the snn never set, was
tuition, thus justly describes Ferdi unfolded, to the wonder and terror of
nand:—“ The 1.1:1'sest king that ever Europe, while a new world, bound
ruled in Spain:” and makes Henry less and richer than the dreams of
VllI., when describing the virtues of avarice, was cast into her lap, disco
his ill-fated Katherine, thus portray vered at the very moment when the
her mother Isabella:— old World was becoming too confined
for the outgrowth of the awakened
“ If thy rare qualities, sweet gentleness,
Thy meekness, saint-like, wife-like govern
intellect, enterprise, and ambition of
ment, mankind.
Obeying in commanding, and thy parts Among other relics which are shown
Sovereign and pious, else could speak thee out in the sacristia of this chapel, and
The Queen of earthly Queens J"
which were bequeathed by Ferdinand
and Isabella, are the identical royal
Next descend into their last resting
place; a low door—mind your head - standards used at the conquest, and
leads down to the vault, a small space, the sword of the king ; observe its sin,
as Charles V. said, for so much great gular semicircular guard: also a plain
ness. The royal cofiins are rude and silver-gilt crown, a Gothic cross, two
misshapen, plain and iron-girt; they pixes (one Gothic), an exquisite ena
would shock Mr. Banting, but they melled viril, one of the finest things of
are genuine and have never been the kind in Spain, and the queen’s own
rifled by Gaul or Ghoul, like those of “ missal,” which is placed on the high
Leon and elsewhere. The ashes of altar on the anniversary of the con
the royal conqueror have never been quest: it was finished by Francisco
insulted, nor have the “ dead been unFlorez on Monday, July 18, 14-96: it
plumbed to furnish missiles of death contains 690 pages: one of the best of
against the living.” The letter F. the illuminations is the “ Crucifixion,”
marks that of Ferdinand. The religio p. 313. Observe also a chasuble em,
loci and sepulchral character is in broidered by Isabella, a small “ Adora.
jured by some modern churrigueresque tion of the Kings,” by Hemling of
stucco-work. Bruges, and in a chapel to the rt. a
Thus the earthly remains of pru singularly ancient picture, probably of
dence, valour, and piety moulder Fernando Gallegos, the Van Eyk of
alongside of those of vice, imbecility, Spain: the centre, the “ Descent from
and despair. These sad relics of de the Cross,” has been mutilated by chap
parted majesty, silent witnesses of long ter barbarians, who have driven nails
bygone days, connect the spectator in it to support a crucifix. A darkish
with the busy period which, height passage connects this royal chapel
ened by the present decay of Spain, with the Sagrario, which was the ori,
appears in the “ dark backward of ginal mosque; and now is alumber
time” to be rather some abstract room! here is hung the portrait of
dream of romance, than a chapter of Heman Perez del Pulgar (1451, 1531),
sober history; but these cotfins make El de las haz<z1'u1s, and the kni ht who,
the past and present real; and every during the siege, rode into ranada,
thing at Granada, art and nature alike l and afiixed a taper and the “ Ave Ma
-—the Alhambra, the battle-field Vega, ria” on the doors of this mosque, thus
the snowy Sierra, towering above, consecrating it, as it were, to her, 9.
more lofty and enduring than the py- ,1 feat which is charged on his shield.
P 3
322 ROUTE 25.—GRANADA —MONTE SACRO. Sect. III.
While alive he was allowed the honour appeal for the S. half of Spain.
of sitting in the coro, and at his death Pursuing the course of the Darro
was buried in the tomb-house of turn to the l., near a half-broken
royalty, and on the site of his great deed. Moorish arch, which, stemming the
The Stgrario itself is a monstrous torrent, connected the Alhambra hill
jumble of churrigueresque, costly in with the Moorish Mint. This Casa
material and poor in design. The de la Moncda opposite, “ La Purisinm
pillars are too low and the altars taw Conczpcion," was turned by the Spa
dry. The “ San Jose,” by Cano, is hung niards into a prison, and next pulled
too high to be well seen. Here lies the down in 1844: there was a curious
good Fernando de Talavera, the first Arabic inscription over the door. In
archbishop, obt. May 14, 1507. The the Calle del Blziiuplo, No. 30, is 3.
Conde de Tendilla, the first Alcaide of Moorish bath with horseshoe arches;
the Alhambra, raised this tomb, and it is entered from the back, and is
inscribed it “ Amicus Amico.” quite a picture, although now only used
On leaving the cathedral enter the by women who wash linen and do not
Z<w/(tin, the “ shopping-street” (Zok— wash themselves. One of the first laws
Arabice market) of now decayed Gran after the conquest of the Catholic sove
ada: to the l. is the Alcuiserirl, which reigns was to prohibit bathing by fine
has been restored since the fire July 20, and punishment. (Recap. viii. 2, 21.)
1843; previously it was an identical Passing the elegant tower of Santa
Moorish silk-bazaar, with small Te Ana, we reach the Alameda del Darro ,
tuau-like shops, and closed at night by a bridge leads up to the Puerto de los
doors. Half-way down the Zacatin Mali/los, and also to the 1. up to the
cross the Darro over a bridge to the medicinal Fuente de los Avellauos, which
(/use del Carbon. This Moorish palace is by some considered to be the Ayn-ad
——Carbone notandum—-was built very dama, the“ fountain of tears,” cor
early in 1070 by Badis, and was used, rupted by Spaniards into Dina-damar.
it is said, by the brother of Boabdil This squirt is compared by the charla
as his royal mews: now it is de tan Chateaubriand to Vaucluse ! Those
graded into a den of beggars, Carbona who do not cross the bridge may con
/ros, and their charcoal. The archway tinue to ascend to the Monte Sacra,
is very rich. Adjoining is the house where a gross trick was played off in
of the Duque de Abrantes, by whose 1588 on the Archbishop de Castro, who
wife this Moorish residence was some founded a college on the site of some
years ago modernised and white discoveries of forged relics, and
washed. Below is a. subterranean marked the spots by crosses. A folio,
passage, said to communicate with the Discursos sabre la Certidumbre, &c.,was
Alhambra: for his incurious grace published at Granada in 1601, by Gre
blocked it up without any previous gorio Lope Madera, to prove their un
examination. This grandee possesses doubted genuinencss; and in the last
much land in the Vega: one farm was century Echevarria made an attempt
bought of the Infanta Fatima in 1495 to revive the forgeries, whereu on the
for 4000 reals, and is now worth a mil learned canon Bayer managed have
lion. His Arabic title-deeds deserve a commission of inquiry appointed
the notice of conveyancing amateurs. by Charles III. The report is indeed
The Zacatin is filledwith petty silver a curious ‘ Blue Book,’ printed by Ibarra
smiths; at the end is the Plaza nueva ( Rzlzon del Juicio seguido en la ciudazl
and the Oluzncilleria, or Court of de Granada, ante Don. Manuel Doz;
Chancery, with its handsome facade, folio, Mad. 1781), from which it appears
built in 1584, by Martin Diaz Na that Alonso de Castillo and Miguel de
varro, after designs of Juan de Her Luna, two notorious impostors, forged
rera. Here resided the Captain Gene the writings and hid the bones and
ral. The court, since recent altera lead vessels both here and in the
tions, is no longer what it formerly Torre Turpirma; these they soon dug
was, when the sole grand tribunal of up, and then revealed the rare dis
Ronda & Granada. nouns 25.—MARIA PINEDA. 323
covery to the prelate, who actually to this height is called La Cerca del
employed the very originators of the Obispo, because raised by Don Gon
trick to decipher the unknown cha zalo de Zufiiga, the captive Bishop of
racters. They professed to relate to Jaen, as his ransom. From the conical
San Cecilio, since the patron of Gra height the prospect ofGranada and the
nada, and some say a disciple of Santi Vega is magnificent; the sunsets are un
ago’s, who deaf and dumb from boy rivalled, none should omit the ascent.
hood, after having been cured by a Turning to the I. we descend into
miracle, came to Spain, and there went Granada by a ravine; to the rt. was
blind. His sight, however, was re the ancient Moorish Casa del Gallo,
stored by wiping his eyes with the which was pulled down in 1817 to
Virgin’s handkerchief, for which relic build a tile-manufactory; formerly it
Philip II. sent, when ill in 1595. Some was a look-out guard-post, and the
of these vouchers for the cure» of San weathercock indicated watchfulness—
Cecilio were written by a miraculous “ fore-warned, fore-armed.” The vane
anticipation in choice Castilian; and consisted of an armed Moor, whose
Aldrete, the antiquarian, narrowly es lance veered with the wind.
caped being burnt for saying that the " Dice cl Sabio Aben Ilabus
Spanish language did not exist in the Que an‘ se ha dc guardar 0.2 A»ndaluz."
first century. This was held to be a charmed talis
Descending again to the Alameda man, and its being taken down by the
del Darro, turn up the Calls tie la Moors was thought to have entailed
Victoria to the Casu Chapis on the rt. the Christian triumph.
hand, a now degraded but once beau Crossing the defile the walls of the
tiful Moorish villa. Observe the patio, Albaicin may be re-entered by a Moor
the galleries, and the enriched window, ish gate, above which is another, called
which open towards the Alhambra; La Puerla de Monayma. This fine
now ascend to the Albaicin, and visit the masonry tower overlooks the entrance
church of San Nicolas for the view, and to Granada and the Puerta de Elvira,
there are few panoramas equal to it in which has been barbarously repaired.
the world. This saint is the patron of Opposite is an open space, converted
robbers, schoolboys, and portionless in 1846 into a charming Paseo _1/ Ala
virgins, but his church was broken meda; in the centre is El Triurfo, with
into by some worthless thieves, men a statue of the Virgin by Alonso dc
without honour ; whereupon “ Old Mena, near which executions used to
Nick” drove them out with his crosier. take place. Here, in May, 1831,
The miracle represented in a rude pic Mariana Pineda, a lady of birth and
ture is hung here as a notice to oth'er beauty, was strangled; a simple cross
trespassers. One of the confessionals marks the spot; her crime was the
was lined, when we were last there, finding in her house an embroidered
with a French paper of Venus, Cupid, constitutional flag. This Alice Lisle
and flowers, suggestive of sins; the of Spain, was generally thought to be
Albaicin suburb, busy and industrious guiltless, and that the evidence of
under the Moor, is now the abode of treason was placed in her house by
idleness and poverty: it still retains its some agent of Ramon Pedroza, a low
own circumvallation, and many of the emplendo of Granada. whose addresses
Moorish houses of the humble refugees she had rejected. Her body, in 1836,
from Baeza still remain here unchanged. was raised and carried in state to the
Passing out at a portal another ravine Ayuntamiento ; and on the anniversary
is crossed, beyond which is another of her execution, the sarcophagus is
suburb, also walled in by lon lines, taken in solemn procession to the ca-.
which terminate at San Migzlefel alto. thedral, where an impressive requiem
Sebastiani’s troops burnt this chapel is performed. The erecting a statue is
and sanctuary, but the glorious views talked about, and the vile model in
remain, which they could not destroy. plaster by one Gonzalez is in the Mu¢
- The long line of wall which runs up seo ; no ship’s figure-head can be worse.
324 ROUTE 25.——C-RANADA-—CARTUJA——SAN JERONIMO. Sect. III.
Next visit the Cartuja convent, a and his juula or cage is still shown : he
little way out of the town to the rt., died March 8, 1550, and was canonised
once so rich in works of art, piety, and in 1699 by Urban VIII. Consult his
value : Sebastiani, having first pillaged ‘Biogrflfia,’ by Francisco de Castro,
and desecrat/ed everything, made it into 8v0., Granada, 1613, and printed again
a magazine; then disappeared the pil at Burgos, 1621. Over the entrance is
lars of silver, and the fine pictures by his statue by Mora in the usual attitude
Cano; now it is suppressed. The doors in which he is painted and carved,
of the chapel arc beautifully inlaid with namely, that in which he expired—on
ebony and tortoiseshell: the sanctuary his knees, as did our Alexander Cruden
is paved with a rich marble pattern in author of the Bible Concordance. His
black and white. Observe the Comodas body was kept in an w-rm, with pillars
in the Sacristia, the Azulejo in the and canopy of silver, melted by Sebas
cloisters, and a cupola by Palomino. tiani, who also“ removed” the best
Here also are some poor paintings pictures. The hospital has two courts ;
by J. S. Cotan, of the English Car the outer has a fountain and open
thusians, martyred, in 1535, by galleries; the inner is painted with the
Henry VIII.; this is a favourite sub saint’s authentic miracles: in one he
ject in Spanish C<n'l.‘ujv1s, in order to tumbles from his horse, and the Virgin
increase the national dread and anti brings him water; in another, when
Lutheran bigotry ; but everything now sick, the Virgin and St. John visit
is fast hastening to ruin. The gardens him, wiping his forehead. In the W.
are charming: those who have leisure angle of the outer court over a staircase
may pursue their ride or walk to Visnar, is a fine artesomdo ceiling.
a villa of the archbishop, built by Hence to Sun Jeronimo. This once
Jioscoso y Pcralta, which is deliciously superb convent, now a cavalry barrack,
situated and overlooks the Vega. was begun by the catholic sovereigns
Returning to the Plaza del Trizmfo, in 1496. The chapel was designed by
at the corner is the Hospital de los Diego de Siloe: left incomplete, the
Locos, founded by Ferdinand and building was finished by the widow of
Isabella, and one of the earliest of all the Great Captain, as Blenheim was
lunatic asylums. It is built in the by Old Sarah. On the exterior is
transition style from the Gothic to a tablet supported by figures of Forti
the plateresque, having been finished tude and Industry, inscribed “ Gon
by Charles V. The initials and badges salvo Ferdinando de Cordoba magno
of all parties are blended. Observe Hispanorum duci, Gallorum ac Tur
the patio and the light lofty pillars. corum Terrori 1” below are his arms,
' The interior is clean, but devoid of with soldiers as supporters. The grand
good management; all the lunatics, patio is noble, with its elliptical arches
except those who are locked up be and Gothic balustrades. The chapel
cause dangerous, are allowed to asso is spacious, but suifered much in the
ciate together, with little attempt earthquake of 1804. The Retablo of
adopted to promote their recovery. four stories bore the armorial shields
At the upper end of this Plaza is the of Gonzalo. The efligies of the Cap
bull-fight arena, and near it “ Las tain and his wife knelt on each side
eras dc Crista,” “the threshing-floor of the high altar, before which he
of Christ.” In the adjoining Calle was buried : the epitaph of this truly
de San Lazaro is a large hospital, and great man is simple and worthy of
a real lazar-house. Retracing our his g1*eatness:—“Gonzali Fernandez
steps to the Culle de San Juan rle Dias, dc Cordova, qui propria virtute magni
visit the hospital founded by this saint ducis nomen proprium sibi fecit, ossa
himself. Juan de Robles was a truly perpetuzn tandem luci restituenda huie
philanthropic and good man, and before interea loculo credita sunt, gloria mi
the spirit of his age; thus from his nime consepulta.” This convent was
preaching the necessity of foundling pillaged by $eh_astiani’s troops, who
hospitals he was shut up as a madman, insulted the dead lion’s ashes, before
Ronda 5' Granada. ROUTE 25.—Excuns10Ns NEAR GRANADA. 325
whom, when alive, their ancestors had de los Reyes. Observe the tower; this
always fled. Serrano gives the details, was the first Moorish mosque conse
p. 255. They tore down the Sacristia for crated by the good Archbishop Ferdi
the sake of the wood, while Sebastiani nand dc Talavera: here Isabel attended
destroyed the tower in order to use the mass, and gave a Retablo with portraits
materials in building a bridge over the of herself and husband by Antonio
Genil; they carried 0fi' the Great Cap Rincon. In the Calle de Elm'ra is the
tain’s sword and pulled down his ban heavy, ill-executed fountain del Taro,
ners. The final ruin of the monument erroneously attributed to Berruguete,
of artistical and military greatness for it is a libel on that eminent artist.
dates from domestic revolutionists and
EXCURSIONS NEAR GRANADA.
Vandals. At the suppression of con
vents in 1836 a Spanish mob robbed These are numerous and full of in
and destroyed everything; even the terest to the historian, artist, and geo
bones of the Great Captain and his logist. The Englishman, be his pur
wife were dug up and cast out. suits what they may, will first visit the
We are now approaching the aristo Soto dc Roma, not that it has much
cratical portion of Granada, and the intrinsic interest beyond that reflected
Calle de las Tablas. Here the Conde de on it by the Great Captain of England.
Luque has a fine mansion. There is This property lies about 3 L. from
not much else to be seen in Granada. Granada, and is bounded to the W. by
The churrigueresque San Aaqustias, on the Sierra de Elvira, which rises like a
the Darro walk, has 12 apostles carved throne of stone over the carpeted Vega,
by Pedro Duque Cornejo, and a rich for its advanced guard or sentinel;
jasper Camarin, under which is the a spring of water, however, gushes
miraculous image, la Patrona de Gra from this rocky alembic, and is
nada, which once upon a time came good for cutaneous complaints. Near
from Toledo of its own accord. This Atarfe are some remains of the ancient
idol is carried in apagan Pompa to the city Illibe/‘is. Here the celebrated
cathedral every Easter Monday. Chris Council was held about the year 303,
tina, in 1846, gave it a crown of gold at which Osius of Cordova presided
as an offering of gratitude for its over 19 Spanish bishops. The 81
having dethroned Espartero, and the canons breathe a merciless anathema
servile priest-ridden town petitioned and death, worthy of the land of the
that it might be raised to the rank of future Inquisition. The crimes and
Captain~General. The city was more penalties give an insight into the
over honoured with the title Heroica, manners of the age. The canons are
because its mob assisted Concha to hunt printed in Pedraza, 217. The best
his brother-in-law Espartero out of edition of the early councils and canons
Spain, and it was permitted to add to of Spain is the ‘ Callectio lllaxima,’
its shield the banner of Castile, wav José Saenz de Aguirre, fol., 4 vols.
ing from the Torre de la Vela! Near Roma," 1603-4; or the fol., 6 vols.
San Francisco, now turned into the post Roma, Jos. Catalani, 1753. See also
oflice, is a quaint old house, La Oasa ‘ La Defensa yaprobacirm del Concilio Il
de Tires, with a facade of soldiers and liberitano,’ F. Mendoza,f0l., Mad. 1594.
projecting arms. Another house worth This hill possesses a mournful fame
looking at is the Casa dc Castril, in Spanish history from the defeat of
near the San Pedro y Pablo, with the Infantes Pedro and Juan. They
good cinque-cento ornaments inside had advanced against the Moors with
and out, after designs of Diego de “ numbers that covered the earth.”
Siloe, 1539. There are sundry tales After much vainglorious boasting they
about the motto, Esperandola, &c., not retired, and were followed, June 26,
worth recording. In Santa Catalina 1319, by about 5000 Moorish cavalry,
de Zafra is a tolerable picture of the and entirely put to rout: 50,000 are said
marriage of the tutelar, by Alonso to have fallen, with both the Infantes.
Cano. Visit by all means the San Juan The body of Don Pedro was skinned,
aw-'
326 noun: 25.—s0To nn noun. Sect. III.
stuifed, and put over the gate of reconveyance ; and this is one of the few
of their grants which Ferdinand VII.
Elvira; many princes were slain, and
among them the Lord of Ilkerinter confirmed, but very reluctantly: the
rah, or" England, just as Lord Macduff Duke of Wellington held it by escrituru
was wounded at the very similar alfair de posesion, in fee simple, and unen
of Ocaiia. This disaster was amply tailed. It contains about 4000 acres,
avenged 21 years after by Alonso XI. and was celebrated for its pheasants that
at Tarifa, and again by Juan II., or Charles V. had introduced, and which
rather Alvaro de Luna, who here, in were destroyed in the time of Sebastiani.
June, 1431, defeated the Moors. The The value of this estate has been
battle is generally called de la 1Ii_que enormously magnified by Spaniards,
ruela, from the little fig-tree under first from their habitual “ ponderuci011-,”
which the king bivouacked, or others then from a desire to exaggerate the
say, from the bribes enclosed in figs national gift, and lastly from their not
with which Alvaro corrupted the knowing what they are talking about.
Moorish captains: of this engagement Thus, said they, the “Soto is worth
there is a most curious chiaro oscuro at least a million,” until in Spain and
drawing on a wall at the Escorial. out of Spain it was considered an El
The Soto de Iiolnw is so called, either dorado. In sober reality, the land it
from the “Wood of Pomegranates,” self is poor, and the house, this so
or more probably from the village called “ palace,” in England would only‘
Roma, Rum1, which, in the time of the pass for a decent manor-farm. The
Moors, was inhabited by Christians, Whole property, in 1815, produced
Rum, Rumi; situated on the Xenil, about 3000!. a-year ; it then declined,
it is liable to constant injuries from in common with all other estates in
its inundations. The estate was an the Vega, in which, in 1814, wheat
appanage of the kings of Granada, sold at 60 to 70 reals the fanega, and
and was granted May 23, I492, by oil at 85 reals the arroba. In 1833
Ferdinand to his lieutenant at that wheat sank to 30 and 35 reals, and oil
siege, the uncle of the celebrated Sefior to 30 and 35 reals. Since the recent
Alarcon, to whom were committed as changes everything has got worse, and
prisoners both Francois I. and Clement the rents have decreased and the bur
VII. His ‘ Comentarius,’ folio, Madrid, dens increased. Under Ferdinand, the
1665,detail services of 58 years. Thus,conditions of the grant were respected;
the brightest pearl in the coronets of under the liberal constitution, many a
the first and last soldier proprietors, right was violated. The estate was
was earned from the broken diadem of tithe-free, but, when the church re
France. The Soto, on the failure of venues were “appropriated,” a full
the Alarcon family, was resumed by tithe was exacted for state and secular
the crown, and heneeforward granted coifers. The rambling old mansion at
to court favourites. Charles III. gave the Soto contains little worth notice,
it to Richard Wall, his former prime the greengages in the garden excepted.
minister. This Irish gentleman lived Since the death of Gen. O’Lawlor
here in 1776. Before he came here the property is administered by Mr.
the house was in ruins, and the lands Grindley.
neglecmd, the fate of most absentee The visitor, if on horseback, may
properties in Spain, but VVall, although cross the Xenil—that is, if there be
83 years old, put everything into per no flood— and return to Granada by
fect order. Charles IV., after his death, the now decayed agricultural Santa
granted the estate to the minion Godoy. Fe‘, the town built by Ferdinand and
At the French invasion Joseph, “ qui Isabella while besieging Granada. The
faisait bien ses affaires,” secured the miserable spot was much shattered by
property to himself. The victory of an earthquake in I807. Here the
Salamanca proved a flaw in the title, capitulation of Granada was signed,
whereupon the Cortes granted the estate and the original deed is at Simancas.
to the able practitioner who settled the It was dated at this town of“ sacred
Ronda gt‘ Granada. acorn 25.—ASCENT or THE SIERRA NEVADA. 327
faith,” as if in mockery of the Punic Passing El Dornajo, an alpine jumble
perfidy with which every stipulation of rocks,f wle mount above the lower
was subsequently broken. Nulla fides true ranges o t e olfinnacles,
elevation and begins
the Picuclio now the
to
servanda est hereticis. ltwas from Santa
Fe’ that Columbus started to discover become manifest, and seems to soar
the New World, and also to find, when lriilgher in proportion as we ascend.
success had rewarded his toils, every e next stage is las Piedras dc Sir/i
pledge previously agreed upon scanda Francisco, whose black masses are seen
lously disregarded. C'0sas de Espafla. from below resting on the snowy bosom
of the Sierra. Now commence the Ven
ASCENT or THE SIERRA NEVADA. tisqueros, or pits of snow, from which
The lover of alpine scenery should the mountain_is seldom free, as patches
by all means ascend the Sierra Neuurlii. remain even in the dog-days. These,
The gossiping book of Dr. F. Pfendler which, when seen from below, appear
d’Ottensheim —-8° Sevilla, l848—is small, and likewhite spotson apanthei"s
useful as to the altitudes, botany and hide, are, when approached, vast fields.
Hygienic details. The highest peak At_ El Prcresin is a stone enclosure,
is the Muluhacen, so called from Boab built up by the Nevcros as an asylum
dil’s father. The next is El Pi during sudden storms; and here the
cacho de la Veleta, “ the watch first night may be passed, either as
point,” which appears to be loftier, cending to the summit in 3 h., to see
because nearer to Granada, and of a the su_n set, and then returning, or
conical, not a rounded shape. This mounting early to see the sun rise, a
eternal rampart of the lovely Vega is sight which no pen can describe. The
very impressive: the sharp mothei'-of night passed on these heights is pierc
pearl outline cuts the blue sky; clear ing co_ld—“ the air bites shrewdly;”
and defined, yet mysteriously distant, but with a “ provend of blankets,
size, solitude, and sublimity are its and of good Vino cle B11274, it will kill
characteristics. The adventurous are no one. While beds are making for
inspired to scale the heights, and win man and beast, the foragers must be
the favours of this cold beauty, and sent to collect the dry plants and dead
she will be melted by such daring. underwood, of which such a bonfire can
The distance to this point is about 20 be made as will make the gaping Grana
m., and may be accomplished in 9 h. dians below think the PZUUC/L0 is going
Those who start in the night may re to be a volcano, probatum est. No dia
turn the next day. The author has monds ever sparkle like the stars on
been up twicc—a sort of Spanish Mont the d_eep_ firmament, seen from hence,
Blane ascent in those days—sleeping at midnight, through the rarified me
the first time al fresco near the summit, dium. After the Prevesin begins the
and the second at the Cortijo del Puche tug of war. For the first hour there is
-the pipkin—when a delicate English a sort of track, which may be ridden ;
lady and a grave ambassador composed the rest must be done on foot. The
the party. The greater part of the effects produced by the rarity of the
ascent may be ridden; for the Nei-eras, air on the lungs and body are not felt
who go nightly up for snow, have worn while seated on a mule ; but now that
with their mules a roadway. muscular exertion is necessary, a greater
Leaving Granada, and crossing the strain isrequired than when in a denser
Xenil, a charming view of the city is atmosphere. The equilibration of air,
obtained from San Antonio. Thence which supports the bones, as water does
skirting the Ouesta ole la Vaca, an hour the fish, is wanting, and the muscles
and a hall's ride leads to the Fwenie have to bear the_ additional weight;
de los Castafios, and another hour and hence the exhaustion.
a half to the Puche, where the moun The Picacho is a small platform over
tain is cultivated. Near here is El a yawning precipice. Now we are
Burranco de Viboras, the viper cleft: raised above the earth, which, with
these snakes enjoy a medicinal reputa all its glories, lies like an opened
tion second only to those of Chiclana. map at our feet: when the vapours
323 nonrn 25.—srnmA NEVADA. SUMMIT. Sect. III.
ascend from the ocean, they are spread The geologist may take a pleasant
out in the plains beneath like afleecy day's ride from Granada to the quarries
sea, out of which the black pin from whence the green serpentine is
nacles of lower mountains emerge obtained. They lie under the Picacho
like islands; when the thunder-storms de la Veleta, and belong to the Marquis
roll below your feet, you look down de Mondejar. Ascend the charming
even on the lightnings. Now the valley of the Xenil to Senes, 1 L.:
eye travels over the infinite space, thence to Pinos, 1 L.; and to Huecar,
swifter than by railroad, comprehend 1 L. Here vast quantities of silkworms
ing it all at once. On one hand is the are reared. The whole process of the
blue Mediterranean lake, with the faint breeding, &c., is nasty; cocoons are
outline even of Africa in the indis placed in hot water to destroy the
tinct horizon. Inland, jagged sierras animal, and the winding the thread is
rise one over another, the barriers of anything but a sweet-smelling job;
the central Castiles. The cold subli but seen from afar, as the peasants
mity of these silent eternal snows is prepare the golden tissue in most pa
fully felt on the very pinnacle of the triarchal poverty, the poetry and the
Alp, which stands out in friendless picturesque is perfect. While the
state, isolated like a despot, and too dinner is getting ready at the tidy Tio
elevated to have anything in common Pardt/s (Nunky Brown) (bring the
with aught below. On this barren materials with you), ride up the defile
wind-blown height vegetation and life to the Barrrmco de San ‘Juan, 11} L.,
have ceased, even the last lichen or taking a Huecar guide. The green
pale violet, which blooming like beauty serpentine blocks lie in the bed of
on the verge of ruin, wastes its sweet the stream. Return to Huecar, and
ness wherever a stone offers shelter let both men and beasts dine.
from the snow; thousands of winged Another morning ride will be over
insects lie frozen, each in its little the cricket-looking grounds, Los Llanos
cell, having thawed itself a shroud, de Armilla, to Alhendin, and thence by
with its last warmth of life. In the the Padnl road to some sandy knolls,
scarped and soil-denuded heights the where, from want of water, all is a de
eagle builds; she must have moun sert, tawny and rugged as the few
tains for her eyrie. Here she reigns goats which there seek a scanty pas
nnmolested on her stony throne; and turage. Granada now is lost sight of,
lofty as are these peaks above the earth, and hence the spot is called El ultirrw
these birds, towering above, mere suspiro del Moro, or La cuesta dc Ias
specks in the blue heaven, lagrimus, for here Boabdil, Jan. 2,
“ Yet higher still to light‘s first source aspire, 1492, sighed and wept his last fare
well. Then the banner of Santiago
With eyes that nevcr blink, and wings that
never tire.” floated on his red towers, and all was
To the botanist this sierra is un lost. Behind was an Eden, like the
rivalled. The herbal of Spain was glories of his past reign ; before him a
always celebrated (Pliny, ‘ N. H.’ xxv. desert, cheerless as the prospects of a
8). The vegetation commences with dethroned king. Then, as tears burst
the lichen and terminates with the from his water-filled eyes, he was re
sugar-cane. At the tails of the snow proached by ’Ayeshah, his mother,
fields the mosses germinate, and from whose rivalries had caused the cala
these the silver threads of new-born mity. “ Thou dost well to weep like
rivers issue. The principal heights of a woman for that which thou hast not
the Alpujarras chain are thus calcu defended like a man.” When this
lated by Rojas Clemente:— anecdote was told to Charles V., “ She
Feet.
Picacho Mulahacen . . 12,762 spake well,” observed the Emperor,
Picacho de la Veleta . 12,459 “ for a tomb in the Alhambra is better
Cerro dc la Alcazaba . 12,300 than a palace in the Alpujarras.”
Ccrro de los Mu/chos . . 12,138 Thither, and to Pumcltena, Boabdil re.
Cerro de la Caldera . 10,908
Cerro de Tajos altos . 10,890 tired, but not for long. He sickened in
Picon de Jerez- . . . 10,100 his exile, and passing over intoAfrica, is
Ronda 5' Granada. ROUTE 26.—GRANADA T0 ADRA. 329
said, tohavebeen kil1edinapettybattle,'hear of horses at the Posada de la
thus losing his life in defending another Estrella. Luggage can be forwarded
person’s cause better than he did his to Seville by the galeras of Huete, to
own (Hist. Africa Marmol. i. 248). Gay- Malaga by those of Gomez, to Almeria
angos, however (Moh. D. ii. 390), has by those of Barranco.
ascertained that he lived at Fez until
1538, where his posterity was long to
be traced, but reduced to the lowest Roun: 26:-GRANADA T0 ADRA.
poverty, existing as beggars on the Padul . . 3
charity doled out at the mosque-doors! l>urral . . .2 .. 5
a sad reverse of fortune, and a melan Lanjaron . . . 33 .. Bl‘
choly conclusion of the brilliant Mo Orjiba . . . .1 .. 10
Cadiar . . . .5 .. 15
hammedan dynasty in Spain. Ujljdl‘ . .3 .. 18
Do not return to Granada by the Berja . . .3 . 21
same road; but ask for the villages Adra . . 2 23
Dotura and Otrusa, and then strike to This is a ride full of historical,
the rt. and cross the rivulet Dilar to artistical and geological interest. The
Zabiu, to which, during the siege, Isa traveller should master his filemlrizvl
bella rode to have a view of the Al fully to understand the historical in
hambra : while she halted in the house cidents ; and the trip may be prolonged
with Claude-like miradores, a Moorish from Adz-a either E. or W. ward,
sally was made, and she was in much without returning to Granada: or
danger. In memory of her escape the return may be made by Motril,
she erected a hermitage to the Virgin, principally over new ground. There is
who appeared visibly for her protec a direct road to Alnwriu without going
tion, and the building still remains through Adm; you then turn oil‘ soon
amid its cypresses. Returning home, after Ujijar to Fondon 3 L., where you
just on entering the avenue of the can sleep; the direct road does not go
Xenil, to the 1., on its banks, is through Lnnjaron, which, however, dc
San Sebastian, once a Moorish Caaba, serves a visit. Fondon is a nominal 9
to which Ferdinand and Isabella ac L. from Alrrwria, which are equal to
companied Boabdil on the day of Gra 12. The best division would be to
nada’s surrender.—Read the inscrip sleep at Ozjiba the first night and the
tion let into the wall. The extraordi second at E17ld0n.
nary Alamo, or tree, under which the This excursion skirts the S. bases
first mass was said, stood here, but was of the Alpujarras, the last mountain
cut down by some barbarians in 1760. refuge of the Morisco. The sierras-of
This most interesting building has Gador and Contravieja are the nucleus,
since been turned into alow Venta, and which some consider to be the “ Hills
now is going to the dogs—what more of the Sun and Moon” of the Moors.
need be said of the modern degenerate The entire chain is called the Sierra
Granadinos. Nevada (the Himalaya or “ Snmry
From Granada many ride to Gib Range” of Spain) ,the “ Sholayr” of
raltar by Loja, Antequera, and Ronda the Moors. The name Alpujarras is
(see Rte. 21). the corruption of Al Busherat, “ grass,”
The important communications be the mountain district of pastures, which
tween Granada and the sea-coast have extend W. to E., about 17 L. long by ll
been long scandalously neglected ; im broad. They are divided into ll por
proved routes, however, are in slow pro tions or Tuas, dependencies (Arabice
gress to ]llalaga,_ Almeria, and Jllotril.
Ta, obedience). This territory was
Meantime a sort of gondola performs assigned to Boabdil by the treaty
the distance to Almeria 24 L., sleeping of Granada, of which every ‘stipula
the first night at Gaadix, the second tion was soon broken, and the Mo
at the poor Venta Dona Zllaria, arriv riscos perfidiously hunted out like wild
ing the third at Almeria. Those about beasts, until expelled at last in 1610,
to ride to Malaga via Alhama may by the feeble Philip III., a tool in the
330 ROUTE 26.———EXPUISION or MORISCOS. Sect. III.
hands of apowerful church, but their enormous size. Below the town is a
resistance in these broken glens and Moorish castle,percbed on a knoll, with
hills was desperate. Most of them, when a splendid view. The peasantry are
banished, went to Tetuan and Salé; hard working and poverty stricken,
there they took to piracy, and avenged while nature all around teems with
themselves on all Christians by pecu fertility; the fruit and grapes are deli
liar ferocity. The name of the “ rovers cious, and the broken bills abound in
of Sallee ” is familiar to all readers of subjects for artists, while the botany
nautical forays. Thus the Spaniards, and geology are as rich as they are
who had before expelled the wealthy hitherto unexplored. A long league
commercial Jews, now completed their leads to Orjiba, which lies at the base
folly by the banishment of the indus of the Picac/zo de la Veleta. The Ace
trious agricultural Moors, depriving qu.-'a de las Ventanas is picturesque;
their poor indolent selves of money here are some mines. los Minas de los
and industry, of soul and body alike.Pozos, which were worked by the Ro
They found it easier to destroy and mans, but abandoned a few years ago,
drive out than to conciliate and con because the natives were scared by a
vert. They thought it a proof of skeleton found in them.
Roman force of character, to make a Oijiba, with its double towered church
solitude and call it peace. For par and castle, is the capital of its hilly pm"
ticulars read Mendoza’s ‘ Guerras de tido .- Pop. 3200. Every possible spot is
Granada.’ cultivated with fruit-trees; some of the
Passing the Ultimo Szispiro (whence gigantic olives are of the time of the
there is a wild ride to Al/L(l7II.(l by Ca Moors. The Barr-anco de Poqueira and
cin), we descend from a ridge of bar the mill and cascade of Pampaneira
renness into the basin between the are very picturesque, and are worth
sierras of Granada and Alhama, which visiting; there is a tolerable posada.
is an irrigated garden of olives, palm Leaving Orjiba, the broken road winds
trees, and oranges. Padul, with its up the bed of a river, the Cadiar or
water-gushing marshes, is quite an Guado/feo: if the waters are low, the
oasis of verdure, much of the swamp rider should by all means go by the
below and of La L/z,(]1ma was drained Angostura del Rio. This is a Salvator
Rosa-like gorge, which the torrents
by the Herrasti family, of which the
gallant defender of Ciudad Rodrigo have forced through the mountain.
was a member. The alpine views of The rocks rise up on each side like
the Sierra Nevada from Durcal, which terrific perpendicular walls, and there
lies basking under the spur called is only an opening sufiicient for the
Sahor, are superb: here vast quantities river-—what sections and strata for geo
of espai-to and flax are grown. Pass logists ! The traveller passes, like the
ing Talura, whose stream tears down a Israelites, through these lonely depths,
wild cleft, observe the Puente do Ta into which the sun never enters: when
blado. Lwnj/u-on—Fonda francesa, and the snows are melting, or in time of
the private house of Don Joze' PajeS— rains, the deluge rushes down the
justly called the Paradise of the Al stony funnel, carrying everything be
pujarras, is seated on the sierra slope fore it. Such a one had occurred just
Bordaila, at the head of the delicious before we rode through, and the wreck
valley of Leorin. The gorge is a grand and ravages were visible far and wide.
chasm, and a celebrated site in the Emerging, the last 3 L. to Cadiar be
Morisco campaign (Mendoza iv. 31; come less interesting as the river-bed
v. 9). Lanjaron, Pop. about 3000, is a widens. Cadiar has a vile posada : be
picturesque Swiss town, whose fresh ware of bills; but remember the hams.
air, fruit, and mineral waters attract It lies about 2 mountain L. below the
summer visitors from the scorching Picac/to dc Ia Veleta, and there is a
coasts. The bathing season is from cbamois path over the heights to Gra
May 15 to Sept. 30. The walnut, nada. Up in the mountain is Trevclez,
chesnut, and olive grow here to an 3 L. from Cadiar, where the “ Jamones
Ronda <§' Granada. nours 26.—UJIJAR—BERJA. 331
others in deposits, or bolsadas. Large
dalces de las Alpujarras” are cured;
no gastronome should neglect these fortunes have been made by the early
sweet hams. Very little salt is used; speculators, who have creamed the hill
the ham is placed eight days in a weak and enjoyed the first sale. The finest
pickle, and then hung up in the snow; ore sometimes yields 70 per cent. pure
while at Berja, and in less elevated lead; much was exported in the ore
places, more salt is used, and the deli state for want of fuel. Latterly, some
cate flavour destroyed. The hamlet smelting and flattening houses have
Trevelez (pop. about 1500) is situated been erected on the coast, and worked
among these mountains, only 1 L. from with English machinery. Berja is full
the top of Mulahacen. The whole of of new houses, in which the wives and
the taa, of which it is the chief place, families of the miners reside; the men
is wild and alpine; the trout in the are mostly lodged on the limestone
river Trevelez are also delicious. hill, near the works. The Sierra is
Moorish Lfiijar, famous in the Mo honeycombed in all directions, the
risco wars for sieges and massacres, shafts being sunk in an oblique direc
the capital of the Alpujarras, is girt tion; the working is injurious to
with hills, and hangs over the Adra. health, aflecting the teeth and bowels.
Every patch of ground is cultivated: The miners occupy rude stone huts;
grapes grow in terraced gardens, and their food, and even water, is brought
in such declivities that the peasants up to them. No women or dogs are
are let down by ropes to pick them, allowed to remain on the hill. At the
like Shakspere’s samphire-gatherers. edge of the Gador is an old Phoeni
The (,‘ole_./Mata is built on the site of cian mine called La Sabina, about
the destroyed mosque; a magnificent which infinite fables are current. The
avenue of gigantic elms, planted byminers are ignorant and superstitious;
the Moors, was cut down by the Van working in the dark underground, they
dal chapter and municipal corporation naturally are less enlightened than
-—arcades ambo—-to build some paltry those Spaniards who live in the bright
otfices. world.
The inhabitants, some 3000, are half 1?e1_-ja is also full of asses and mules,
Moors, although they speak Spanish. on which the ore is carried to the sea
The women, with their apricot cheeks, port, Adm-—Aladra, Arabice Virgin——
black eyes and hair, gaze wildly at the 2 L. In spite of the traflic, the roa/d>s
rare stranger from little port-hole are iniquitous, and have always been
windows, which are scarcely bigger so, for, said a. Moorish poet of these
than their heads. Three long L., by a localities, “ There is no remedy to the
rambla _ of red rocks, lead to Bcrja. traveller but to stop; the valleys are
Alcolea lies to the l. Here the foragers gardens of Eden, but the roads those
of Sebastiani butchered the curate at of hell; ” as, indeed, are most of those
the very altar, scattering his brains of Andalucia, the paradise of poets,
over the crucifix; 400 persons were
massacred; neither age nor sex were
the inferno of donkeys. Winding
spared (Schep.iii. 112). The avenger of
along this mule-track, down a gorge of
a river, we reach Alqueria, and thence
the Morisco meted out to the Spaniards
from their own measure: “ how shall through sugar-plantations arrive at
you hope for mercy rendering none?” Ad/ra, Posada nueva. Ailing»; was a
Bewja -Vergi, is a busy_, flourishing, town founded by the Phoenicians
and increasing town; pop. under 9000. (Strabo, 236), and placed judi
It. lies under the Sierra de Gador, a ciously on the hill the Monte Crista.
mountain of lead, some 7000 ft. high The modern portion, built below, is
and 10 L. in circumference. The constantly exposed to fearful inun
mines have been in work since 1797, dations from the river Aolra, and to
and are only continued while they re the ngues.bt-ed by its swamps, all of
munerate: the ore occurs in uncertain which might be obviated by proper
quantities, sometimes in veins, and at dykes and dams which should be
332 ROUTES 27, 28.—ADRA—MOTRIL. Sect. III.
placed higher up. The port is tolerable, Almuiiecar, the al Munnecab, Ara
but exposed to the W. The sea once bice “the gorge,” of the Moors, pop.
came up to the walls of the Moorish 5000, has a somewhat exposed port
castle, but has retired. From the and a ruined castle. Here sugar and
watch-tower, la Torre de la Vela, a cotton, azucar y algodon (Queer,
tocsin rang out a summons to arms on coton, Moorish things and names),
the approach of African pirates, but yet remain, and great efforts are
now cannon and every means of de making to extend their culture. The
fence are wanting. Pop. about 8000. soil in the valley is very rich, being
Some smelting-works have been esta formed of the detritus of the hills and
blished here by Heredia and others, on alluvial deposits, and under the Moor
the English principle. the district was a golden strip, and
Malaga lies 27 L. to the W. of Adra. studded far beyond Malaga with towns
and cities. Now dehesas y despo
blados attest the dominion of the
Ronra 27.—A1>na T0 llamas.
Gotho conqueror. For Velez Malaga,
Gualchos ‘I see p. 288. Those who wish to return
Mutril . 3 10 to Granada from Motril, instead of
Saluhreiia 1 11
Alrnufiecar . 3 14 going to Malaga, may take this line.
Torroz . . . 4 18
Velez Malaga . 4 22
Malaga. . 5 27 Rourn 28.-Moran. IO GRANADA.
From Adra the leagues are long and Velez de Benaudalla . . 4
wearisome, but we rode in one day to Rio Grands . . . . . 21} .. 6*}
Pinos del Rey . . . . 2 . . 84*
Motril. Passing the fine English Padul . . . . . . 3 . . 11%
smelting-houses, we reach La Rabité, Granada . . . . . . 3 . 141*
a sort of port to Albufiol, which lies
inland 1 L., and is most rich in wines, A new road is making from Gra
raisins, and brandies: the latter are nada to Motril. Leaving Motril,
exported via Rabita to Xerez, to suit ascend the Sierra de Lujar, with fine
the “ neat as imported ” compounds to sea-views, and thence to Velez de
Britannia palates. The new road from Benaudalla,——Belad, “ the land of the
Granada to Motril is to pass near children of Audalla; ” it is generally
Albuiiol, and, if it ever be finished, called Velezillo : pop. 3000. The Rio
will facilitate its exports. Now the Grande, a “large river” in rainy
sands become African. The fishermen, times, and a small one at others, joins
dusky as Moors, dwell in chozas, Ara the Guadalfeo near this hamlet: the
bice “ huts made of reeds.” The long castle is picturesque on its knoll.
range of grape hills commences near Now ride on to a mill, where an
Gualchos, whence a very steep track artist might linger a week. Some olive
amid vines leads to Zllotril, which lies trees, planted by the Moors, are gi
below in its green vega of rich allu gantic. Soon after the road branches,
vial soil. The region is full of and a short out to the rt., by a wild
fish and fruit. The amphibious agri river, leads to Durcal, and thence by
cultural population about 12,000. The Granada ; we took this route as saving
posada is decent. The road continues 4 L. The further and fairer way goes
to coast the sea to Salobrefia, the city round by the picturesque valley of
of Salambo (Astarte), and once the Pines del Rey.
important Moorish town Shalubainiah, The districtslying to the E. and
and now dwindled to a hamlet; the N.E. of Adra are of the highest in
rock-built castle, in which the Moslem terest to the botanist and geologist;
guarded his treasures, is now a ruin, being almost virgin ground, they are
and the present poverty needs no store strongly recommended to travellers
house. ambitious to “book something new.”
Ronda & Granada. noun: 29.—ALMERIA. 333
The maritime and rugged province of Then, according to the proverb, Gra
Almeria, of some 220 square L., con nada was merely its farm; “ Cuando
sists chiefly of ramifications from the Almeria era Almeria, Granada era su
Sierras. Theroads and accommodations alqueria.” Indeed the site is a bosom
are bad. The population, some 300,000, of plenty, as the luxuriant figs and
is just now running mining mad ; neg cactus testify. It was taken by the Spa
lecting agriculture, the real wealth of niards, Oct. 16, 1147, chiefly by means
this region of fruit and fertility. The of the Genoese, who were anxious to
evidences of volcanic disturbances are abate this worse piratical nuisance than
very frequent. The excursion is, how even Tortosa. See a most curious
ever, one of some hardship, and it Latin Leonine poem on this conquest.
must be ridden. “Attend to the pro Esp. Sag. xxi. 399. The Genoese ob
vend,” and take a local guide from tained for their sole reward the dish
time to time, especially if the expe out of which the Saviour is said to have
> dition be prolonged to the forest of eaten the last supper. The Spaniards
Segura and the lead-mines of I/inares, appropriated the town and the glory to
near Ubeda. The following route is themselves ; and the region under their
recommended; where an -asterisk is rule is no longer, as sang its Arabian
placed, the distances cannot be exactly eulogist, “a land where, if thou walkest,
stated; indeed, in the mountain and the stones are pearls, the dust gold,
forest country the leagues are conven and the gardens paradise.” The town
tional and mere guesswork. It will is walled in with forts to the seaboard.
be always advisable in each place to The houses are small, the women and
apply to the cura or the alcalde in any climate African: pop. about 20,000.
case of difiiculty. Some bustle is given to the decay since
the introduction of steamers, which
Roms 29.—Anas T0 Canrsanxs. touch here up and down. The remains
of the bold picturesque Moorish castle
Adra of Keyran, now called the Alcazaba,
Dalias . O\> N¢0r>NU\fl rF)>W
command the town, and were re
Roquetas
Almeria . paired by Charles V., who there hung
Tabernas a bell to give warning of piratical de
Mojacar . seents. The walls at the back and
Vera .
Pulji . . . . . . beyond La Olla are very picturesque,
Puerto de Ias Aguilas . running up and down the declivities.
Algarrobillo The port is without a mole, yet the
Almazarron.
Cartagena vestiges of one constructed by the
Moors might have suggested such an
Dalias is a- poor place, liable to absolutely necessary improvement, and
earthquake, and dreary is its sandy recently a. pier has been projected, on
plain, el Campo, which might easily paper only, although there is a paid
be irrigated: Roquetas and the coast junta for the purpose, and plenty of
are no better. Alma’:-ia—Murges, the finest stone close at hand——cosas
Portus Magnus of the ancients, Al de Espaiia. The former atarazanaa,
Meryah, Arabicé, “the conspicuous.” or dockyards, may also be traced. Al
Inns: Fonda de Zos Vaqoores, Fonda meria is a chief town of the district,
Malague1la. Under both Roman and and residence of petty authorities, who
Moor it was the “great port” of traflic —se dice—get wealthy by encouraging
with Italy and the East, and one of the smuggling from Gibraltar. It has a Go
richest manufacturing towns. Under thic cathedral with an unfinished tower,
its Moorish independent chief, Ibn and is almost a castle, having been built
Maymfm, it was a perfect Algiers, a so strong in order to resist the pirates ;
pirate port and pest, whose galleys notice a rich Corinthian facade,
ravaged the coasts of France and Italy. and medallions of St. Peter and St.
334 ROUTE 29.—-—ADRA TO CARTAGENA. Sect. III.
Paul; the interior is whitewashed; conveyance, may ride across the sandy
observe, however, the fine marbles in coast, provided they can face insects,
the pulpits and altars, especially one and fleas especially.
in the chapel of La V21-gen del Ca/rmen. This route is very uninteresting, and
The painted and gilt medallions are in the accommodation wretched. The
good cinque-cento taste. Santiago is coast continues studded with watch
said to have disembarked here A.D. 37, tower atala]/as, and the plains produce
whereat the Gallieians and Arragonese, esparto and soda-plants. The route
each of whom swears that the apostle runs inland to Tabernas, leaving Cabo
first disembarked in their country, are de Gala to the rt-.; it comes out on
much vexed: and, as he never came to the sea near Mqiacar, Murgis acra,
Spain at all, who shall decide? The the promontory on its spur of the
inhabitants of Almeria are subject to Sierra de Cabrera, with its ruined
eye-complaints. castle and pretty glorieta walk. Hence
About 2 L. in the Sierra are the to Vera. Barea—the “end” of the
much-frequented baths of Alhamilla; Tarraconese division—-—is a seaport
there are two seasons,—-—from May 1 to from whence are exported the corn,
June 30, and from Sept. 1 to the end barrilla, esparto, &c., of the rich envi
of October. The site is delicious, and rons. The climate is delicious; h.ic
the views charming; so much for oer perpetuum: pop. above 8000.
nature. The bathing and social ac Hence cross over the Almanzora, the
commodations very bad; so much for “ river of victory,” often with no water
the natives. The commerce of the pro in it, by the Cortijo de P-ulpi to el
vince of Almeria consists principally in Pue-rta de las Aguilar, a small place
the produce of the lead-mines, and the so called from a rock at the entrance
esparto and barrilla, of which quan of the nicely protected harbour, which
tities grow on the plains. The arbol resembles the head and beak of an eagle.
do tinte, a sort of acacia, from which The town consists of two intersecting
a dye is made, flourishes here. The streets, which nestlc at the foot of a
geologist will, of course, visit El Cabo rock and castle, destined in 1766 by
ale Gata, the “Cape Agate,” distant Charles III. as the port of the country
15 m. S.E. This is the ancient Pro up to Murcia. A carriageuble road
montorium Charidemi, a word derived communicates hence to Lorca, 5 L.:
by Bochart (Can. i. 34) from the Punic the character of the country is cal
aha/r-adem, caput sardii, the sardonyx, cined and barren, save the Esparto
Arabicé Kheyran. It is a rock formed and Palmito weeds. Almazarron is
of crystals, spars, and agates, of 8 L. an industrious place: pop. some 5000.
by 5 L. in extent. Visit the cavern in The land and sea afford occupation.
the Montafia del Bajo, where ame From the number of ruins discovered
thysts are found. The evidences of in the vicinity, this is supposed to
volcanic disturbance are very clear: the have been the site of an important
conical Moron dc los Genoveses, some Carthaginian settlement. In the Sierra
300 feet high, has clearly been thrown of Almazarron silver ores occur, while
up; many similar cerros exist. The from the hill San Cristobal alum is
Vela blanca is a. white spot, a land extracted, and the red earth, almagm,
mark to travellers on this windy cape, which is used for rubbing Merino
since, according to the nautical adage, sheep, polishing mirrors, and mixed
“At Cape de Gat, take care of your with the red rappee snuff" of Seville.
hat." Other knobs have a religious The friable rock is first roasted, and
nomenclature common in Spain, such then slaked. When the alum is de
as “ El Sacrisian” and “ Los dos posited in solution, the residue after
Frailes,” equivalent to our “parson evaporation is the almagra, which,
and clerk,” “ devil’s peaks,” &c. Those according to Captain Widdrington, is
going to Cartagena, who dislike steam a silicate of iron, according to others
Ronda §r Granada. noun: 3O.—A1.MEa1A TO JAEN. 335
an oxide. Much barrilla is made here, appeared that germ of mining and
and burnt with the shrubs of these gambling madness with which Spain
timberless plains. Crossing the Al and the whole modern world seem
manzora to the 1., 1% L., is the silver infected. The original discoverer died a
pregnant Sierra de Almagrera. The pauper, without even a room in a poor
mines were discovered by a poor weaver or an alms-house, while the Carthagi
who, under _the pretence of shooting, nians erected a temple to the San
passed his days here, until near a Aletes, by whom these identical ores
ridge or dip called el Ba/rranco Ja were first found (Polyb. x. 10).
roso he found specimens; these he From Almeria there is a cross but
carried to Granada and Cordova carriageable road to Guadiz 15 L.,
to be assayed, when they proved to through Rioja, Ocaiia, and Finaiia.
be galena or argentiferous lead : being
utterly without money, he at last
confided his secret to Don Miguel ROUTE 30.—A.'LMERIA T0 JAEN.
Soler, proprietor of the land, and
the real discoverer according to Ma Almeria
ltioja w-oinw»-c-w aw-r:_ic
doz, to whose account and details Senes. . .
the traveller is referred, as also to Macael . '
the excellent work on La Industria Purchena
Baza
Ikfinera by Ezquerra del Bayo. . Soler Orcern .
formed a club of 12 fi'iends,who making Segura .
a purse of about 100l., proceeded to Homos . .
Iznatorafe .
obtain a legal grant of the site, and Ubeda
employed a. competent engineer; on Baeza
the 21st of April, 1839, a rich lode Linares .
was discovered about 50 feet below the Mengibar
Jaen .
earth. This bonanza or godsend was
called La Carmen, in honour of the This circuit, interesting to the natu
Virgin, as sole dispenser of the boun ralist, runs through an almost term
ties of heaven. The shares soon rose incognito. The leagues are long and
from 150 dollars to 60,000. Indeed, uncertain, the communications and
1800 an-obas of ore, of 25 lbs. each, accommodations rough in the extreme.
were raised per day, even with the It is, however, a voyage of discovery
rudest machinery This sudden acqui twell deserving to be undertaken, and on
sition of wealth attracted thousands which further information is much re
of competitors to “the diggings,” quested for this Handbook.
and what a few years ago was a wild Macael, poorly built amid the finest
and dreary waste is now studded materials, lies under the Sierra de Fila
with buildings, traced into roads, bres, whence the view over the country
crowded with labourers and smelting is singular, as it resembles a. stormy sea
furnnces. To complete the works, a suddenly petrified. Macael is one
draining company has been formed for block of white marble, whence were
the purpose of opening an adit, now extracted the thousands of pillars
nearly completed. The outlet is on a which the Moors raised in the patios
level with the sea, and the line will of Seville and Granada ; now, in the
communicate with that part of the pining atrophy and marasmus, they are
Sierra which contains the principal scarcely worked. Pnrchena is historic
mass of ore, a distance estimated at ally interesting, as being the town to
2200 yards. These mines were cer which Boabdil retired, it having been
tainly worked by the ancients, but long assigned to him as his petty estate, and
remained among the many treasures part of his alcazar still remains. For
buried in the Spanish nation, until re Baza, see p. 343. Thenceabold lover
discovered by sheer accident: here first of natural history may strike to the P020
336 ROUTE 30.—UBEDA—BAEZA. Sect. III.
del Alcoa, where the pine forests com tran de la Cueva, the reputed father
mence. Hence to Cazorla, which of La Beltraneja, the rival to Isa
forms one point of a triangle with bella the Catholic. The Maecenas of
Puebla de Don Fabrique, distai1t15 L. Ubeda was Francisco de los Cobos,
The roads are iniquitous in these tan secretary to Charles V. He brought
gled groves of fine oaks and pines. At from Italy Julio and Alessandro,
Orcera was the governmental establish pupils of Jean de Udina, to de
ment of woods and forests, whence the corate his house with arabesques.
arsenals of Cadiz were supplied, but The mansion, cruelly degraded, still
the noble buildings were all burnt by exists in the parish Santo Tomas. He
the French. The forest of Segura, also employed Pedro de Valdelvira, in
Saltus Tigiensis, extends about 80 L. by 1540, to build the beautiful San Sal
60. The visitor should apply to the vador. The stone is of a bad colour,
resident authorities for permission to and the interior has been overgilt and
explore the localities, stating frankly altered. Observe the Portal del Llano,
his objects ; otherwise his arrival will and the entrance and inside of the rich
create an infinite hubbub, and he will saoristia : walk by the pretty delicias
be exposed to every sort of suspicion to the Cadenas, or convent of Domi
and inconvenience. The Guadiana, nican nuns, built in 1566 by Vasquez de
which flows into the Guadalquivir, is Molina, sec. to Philip II.; the facade
useful for floating down timbcr. The is by Valdelvira ; the hospital is a fine
forest is sadly neglected and ill-used; building: observe the tower, the clois
game of all kinds abounds, and wolves ter, and the minute bassi-relievi on the
are so numerous that sheep can scarcely retablo. The funds have long been
be kept. misa-pplied, and the mismanagement is
Passing through a fertile well complete. Visit the Lonja, and the
watered country is Ulveda, built on an buildings in the Earido-—the “ Exodus,”
ol.ive—clad slope by the Moors, with the or place of departure for Baeza, distant
materials of the Roman Bsetula, now 1 L. There is a profusion of water,
Ubeda la Vieja. Ubeda was taken by and fertility is everywhere the consc
Alonso VIII. eight days after the quence ; indeed, the whole of the Lamas
victory of Las Navas de Tolosa. The de Ubeda is some of the finest land in
Spaniard, writing to Innocent III., the world. Under the Moors it was
stated that it “then contained 70,000 densely peopled, and a granary; now
Moors, of whom many were put to much is despoblado and neglected, and
death, and the rest made slaves to the people dull and backward ; indeed,
build convents in Spain, and the city since the days of Don Quixote (ii. 33),
razed to the ground.” When these ir par los cerros de Ubeda is equivalent
Christian destroyers retired, thelnfidels to going out of your way or talking
rebuilt Ubeda. But the ill-fated town nonsense, and the roads are some of
was again taken by St. Ferdinand on the very worst in Spain.
Michaelmas-day, 1239. Hence the city Baeza—Beatia Bsecula-—is the spot
arms—gules, that Archangel, with an where Scipio the younger routed As
orle, argent, of twelve lions, gules. drubal (U. 0. 54.5), killing 8000 Car
Ubeda contains about 15,000 inhabit thaginians, and taking 10,000 Spa
ants, principally agriculturists. niards prisoners (Livy, xxvii. 18).
Here are excellent specimens of Under the Moors it became a flour
Pedro de Valdelvira, an architect of ishing to\vn of 30,000 souls. It was
the sixteenth century, and second only taken and sacked by St. Ferdinand
to Berruguete. The cathedral, once in 1239, and has never become again
the mosque, has been built into a Co what it once was. The miserable
rinthian temple, in a style similar to Moors took refuge in the Albaic-in
those of Jaen and Granada. Near of Granada. Baeza is a handsome
the high altar was buried Don Bol town, with old walls and towers,
Ronda 5' Granada. ROUTE 30.—BAEZA———LlNARES. 387
of which the Aliaia/res is the finest. Linare.s—Hel1anes-—is placed in a
Pop. about 4000. There is a good pleasant plain under the Sierra Mo
new posada in what was the Fran rena, with an abundance of fertilising
ciscan convent. The noble buildings streams: population under 7000. It
of the sixteenth century, and now was celebrated in antiquity for its
deserted halls, bear record of former mines of copper and lead, which are
importance. The position, on a lofty still very productive, especially those
lama, with pure air, rich plains, and of Los Arrayanes, Alarnillos, and La
abundance of water, is well chosen. Cruz. Every day new shafts are being
All this rich district fell in 1810 at opened; but, as at Berja, the working
once into Soult’s grasp from the mis is ve prejudicial to the miner’s
conduct of the Spaniards under Cas health. About half a L. distant is the
tejon. The principal edifices are the supposed site of Castulo or Cazlona,
oratorio of San Felipe Neri, the grand where mutilated sculpture is frequently
patio and staircase of the university, found and neglected. At Palazuelos
the fountain with caryatides in the are the presumed ruins of the“palace”
Plaza, and the cinque-cento gates of of Himilce, the rich wife of Hannibal,
Cordova and Baeza. The cathedral is and near is the site of the great battle
joined with that of Jaen, under the won by Scipio (Livy, xxiv. 41). The
same mitre. It was modemised in fine fountain of Linares is supposed to
1587, and dedicated to the “birth of be a remnant of the Roman work
the Virgin.” This mystery is repre which was connected with Castulo. N.
sented in a basso-relievo by Jeronimo of Linares, and about 5 miles from
Prado, over the classical portal. The Carolina, in the Cerro de Valdeinfierno,
chapel of San José is in excellent plate are certain ancient mines, which still
resque It was for this cathedral that are called Los Pozos de Anibal. The
Francisco Merino, one of the best silver geologist may strike on to Vilches, a
workers of Spain (obiit 1594), made a small place with 2000 souls, placed in
magnificent custodia. the midst of neglected mines of copper
But the pride of Baeza was the and silver. The wild shooting in all
being the birthplace of the 11,000 this district of Lax Nuevas P0610
virgins commonly called of Cologne, ciones is good, so also is the fishing
but who were Spanish, according to in the Guadalen, Guam-izaz, and Gua
Vilches, in his ‘ Santuarios,’ i. 28, 26. dalimar.
These ladies, really born in Cornwall The two towns of Baeza and Linares,
about the year 453, were daughters of only 3 L. apart, as is common in un
one Nothus, a great lord, and the Bas amalgamating Spain, do not love their
tards are still among the best born in neighbour. Baeza quiere pares, yno
the West of England. Some sceptical quiere _Di1|a're.s-.
critics contend that the eleven thou The traveller may either strike up
sand were in reality only twins, and by to Bailen, 2 L., or return to Granada
name Ursula and Undecimilla ; others by Jaen—2 L. to the Venta de Don
assert that the mistake arose from the Juan, and I L. to the bridge over the
abbreviations of an old manuscript, Guadalquivir at Mengibar, and thence
“Ursula et XI. M. V.,” meaning 4 most dreary L. to Jaen. See Index
simply, Ursula and eleven martyr vir for details.
gins. At the same time, there must The communications from Granada
have been many thousands of them, will be found in the preceding pages :
more perhaps thanvat present, since to Jaen, Rte. 16; to Cordova, Rte. 14 ;
there is scarcely a relicario in Spain to Seville, by Osuna, Rte. 13; to
which cannot boast a virgin, or two of Ronda, by Antequera, Rte. 21; to
them, while the numbers in Germany Malaga, by Alhama, Rte. 25 ; or by
and Italy are still more astounding. Loja, Rte. 13. There now remains
The celebrated sculptor, Gaspar Be the Route to Murcia and the Eastern
oerra, was born at Baeza in 1520. 1 provinces.
S_pain.—l. Q
( ass ) Sect. IV.

SECTION IV .

THE KINGDOM OF MURCIA.

CONT ENTS.

Page Page
norrrn 3l.—GRANADA T0 MURCIA 342 ROUTE 35.——ELCHE T0 nmnnrn . . . 352
Guadix; Lorna; Murcia.
ROUTE 36.—-ELCHE TO XATIVA - . . 353
more 32-—-MURCIA T0 MADRID . . 348
ROUTE 33__mmCm To CABTAGENA 349 nourr. 37.—r:r.caa T0 ALICANTE . 354
Mines, ancient and modern.
ROUTE 38.—AL1CAN'I‘1'-1 TO xxrrvn 355
moors 34.—CARTAGENA TO ALI- Casmlla; Ahoy; xmv,,_
canrn 351
Orihuels; Elche; Alicante. norrra 39.—XATlVA T0 VALENCIA 359

___._-_

Tar; petty Reino de Murcia contains about 660 square L. It is of an irregular


shape, about 25 L. long by 23 broad, and is bounded to the E. by Valencia, to
the N. by Cuenca and La Mancha, to the W. by Granada, and to the S. by the
l\lediterra.nean. It is thinly peopled and very dry: drought, indeed, is the local
curse: and frequently for many months in succession not one drop of rain
falls on the parched, riverless portions. Man and nature are withered up; dust
returns to dust, and all becomes a desert. The artificial remedies, the Presas and
Pantanos, and methods of irrigation introduced by the intelligent, industrious
Moors are well worth notice. (Consult the .1/Iamoria, by Rafael de ilTiranda, Svo.
1836.) Where they exist under this ardent sun, the well-watered portions and
Huertas compensate by their prodigious fertility, producing the palm, orange,
and carob tree, silk, soda, bass-grass, red peppers, and wines. The mineralogy
is most interesting, especially in the mining districts near Cartagena. The best
line of route is that which comprehends Lorca, Murcia, Cartagena, Elche,
and Alicante. The springs and autumns are the fittest seasons for travelling;
the former are all flower, the latter all fruit. Murcia was the cherished province
of the Carthaginians, and was destined by them to replace their loss of Sicily,
as it contained those mines which enabled the family of Hannibal to war
against Rome itself. The Goths of Murcia made honourable resistance against
the Moors, and their leader, Theodimir—Tadm.1'r Ben Gobdos—was allowed to
retain an independent sovereignty during his life ; hence the province was
called Belad Tadmir, a word often confounded with Tadmor, a country of
palms, which do indeed flourish here. Under the Moors Mursiah became
one continuous “ garden,” and hence was called El Bastan, and sometimes
Misr, Egypt, to which it was compared. When the Kalifate of the Ummeyahs
was broken up, Mursiah split ofi' into an independent state under the Beni-Tahir
family, which ruled from 1038 to 1091 ; after this, internal dissensions led to
the triumph of the Spaniards. The Moorish Murcians were reputed to be ob
llfurcia. _ MINES-—ESPARTO. 339
stinate and disobedient; and the province, lying in an out-of-the-way corner, is
still considered by Spaniards to be the Bceotia of the south. Thus in schoolless
Murcia, Murtia, the pagan goddess of apathy and ignorance, has long ruled,
and rules, undisturbed and undisputed. Few men in anywise illustrious, have
ever been produced by this Dunciad province. The lower classes, chiefly
agricultural, are alternately sluggish and laborious. Their physiognomy is
African, and many have migrated latterly to congenial Algeria. Superstitions,
litigious, and revengeful, they remark of themselves and province, that the
heaven and earth are good, but all that is between them is bad. El cielo y sue/0
es bueno--el entresuelo malo. The littoral plains, especially about Cartagena and
Alicante, are much subject to earthquakes, and are rendered insalubrious by
salt-marshes. The salt made from them is chiefly shipped to the Baltic. The
soda-plant grows abundantly: of the four kinds—-the barilla, algazal, sosa, and
salicor—-the first is the best. It is a low-tufted spreading bush, of a greenish
colour, ripening into a dull brown. The plants, when dry, are burnt on iron
gratings over pits: and the saline particles sink below in a vitrified mass. An
acre of barrilla will produce a ton of alcali, but it is an exhausting crop. Here
also the esparto, the bass feather-grass or Spanish rush, Spartium junceum, genct
d'E.spagnc,— stipa-macrochloa tenacissima—grows naturally in vast quantities :
hence the district of Cartagena was called by the Greeks, -.—» 1-.me=m5.ov—n
mwyyagm -irsim, and by the Romans Campus Spartarius, Juncarius. The name
of this “ stipa-tenacissima” is said to be derived from m-up», conserere, and
the plant resembles the spear-grass which grows on the sandy sea-shores of
Lancashire. This thin wiry rush is still worked up into the same infinite
purposes as are so accurately described by Pliny (‘ N. H.’ xix. 2); such as
matting, baskets, soles of sandals, ropes, &c. It was exported largely to Italy
(Strabo, iii. 243). These are the Iberian whips of Horace (Epod. iv. 3). The
rush, when cut, is dried like hay, and then soaked in water and plaited, and is
very enduring; and the hand-manufacture, as formerly, employs multitudes of
women and children. Snails, especially a. kind called Serranos, are much eaten
in these districts.
The present section will include a portion of Valencia, as Murcia is quitted
near Orihuela ; but the description of the Elche, Alicante, and Xativa districts
will, however, come conveniently to the traveller who approaches those regions
from Granada. Murcia is very ill provided with roads; even the great com
munication between Granada is but just carriagcable, badly furnished with
bridges, very wearisome, and with poor accommodation. The best plan will
be, on leaving Granada, to make an excursion into the Alpujarras to Almeria
(R. xxvi.), and then take the steamer to Cartagena. There is a good local
and heraldic history of Murcia, the ‘ Discursos Historians,’ Francisco Cascales,
Murcia, 1621 ; or the new edition of l7 75. Murcia, a metal-pregnant district,
at this moment is mining mad, for the Spaniard, not ill-disposed in the abstract
to Mammon worship, has caught a new infection from the foreigner in its
practical exhibition. Some account of these mines, ancient and modern, may
interest those who love either to “ speculate," or to dig out the ore of the past
from the‘ rubbish of oblivion. Here the antiquarian will find the identical
shafts of the Carthaginians reopened, after a discontinuance of so many cen
turies : and the same districts are again made busy by this ancient source of
wealth and industry.
Spain has long supplied the world, both the old and new, with the precious
mctals—herself the Peru of antiquity, she enriched Tyre and Rome with bullion
from her own bosom, as in later times she supplied Europe from her Trans
atlantic possessions. The Phmnicians, the first to discover her metallic wealth,
long kept the secret to themselves with a jealous monopoly, which their de
scendants imitated in regard to their golden colonies of the New World. The
merchants of Tyre found the natives of Tarshish (the south of Spain) much
Q 2
340 KINGDOM or MURCIA. Sect. IV.
as the aboriginal Indians were when discovered by the Spaniards; and totally
unacqnainted with the conventional value of the precious metals as a repre
sentative of wealth, for no mention whatever is made of coin. They treated
them simply as materials for the construction of the meanest utensils, for
mangers and water-vessels (Strabo, iii. 224). The Phceuicians carried bullion
away in such quantities, that when their ships were freighted to the full they
made their anchors of silver (Diod. Sic. v. 358, Wess.): the coasts of Pales
tine were encumbered therewith, so that in the house of Solomon (who traded
with Hiram) everything was of gold and “ silver was accounted nothing"
(1 Kings, x. 21).' The very next verse shows that all this came from Spain.
Hence the possession of this country of gold, the source of the sinews of war,
and the secret of power, soon became the bone of contention among nations
(App. ‘ B. H.’ 482). The fame of the Romans was spread over the East, in
consequence of “ what they had done in Spain, the winning of the mines of
silver and of gold which is there " (I Mace. viii. 3). Everything which re
garded this subject interested the avarice of Roman adventurers, who, says
Diodorus Siculus, flocked to Spain in the hopes of suddenly becoming rich,
just as the Spaniards did to Peru and Mexico ; accordingly, there was no want
of authors on Spanish metallurgy. From the now lost works of Posidonius,
the chief authority, Strabo and Diodorus Siculus derived their principal
information. Posidonius, according to Strabo (iii. 217), was so dazzled with
the subject, that, departing from his ordinary prose to indulge in poetical
exaggeration, he adventured on the pun, that Plutus, not Pluto, lived beneath
the Spanish soil. Strabo goes on to say, that men would bore down to the latter
to dig up the former. Even this cautious geographer warms when enlarging
on the wealth of the Peninsula. See also the beautiful exordium of Pliny to
his 3rd book on the fatal greediness for gold, and the “profunda avaritia" of
his countrymen. No tale could, in fact, be too exaggerated for the credulity
and the golden visions of the reading public of Rome, who thought that the
streets of_Spain were paved with gold, just as the modern Romans think those
of London now are. The Tagus was said to roll over golden sands, while the
ploughshare of the Gallician turned up clods of ore (Justin, xliv. 3). The
Iberian names of these interesting lumps, Palas, Palacranas, Baluces, have
been preserved, while the rest of the dictionary has perished. It is still true,
as was remarked by Strabo (iii. 210, 216), that those portions of the Peninsula
where the soil is most barren are the most fertile in the precious metals.
Those who have read of the murders committed in the S. American mines
by the Spaniards, and of the myriads of poor Indians wasted, blood, bones, and
all, as machinas de sangrc, will be satisfied, on comparing the recorded iniquities
committed here by the Carthaginians, that the Punic taint, when gold is in the
question, has remained unchanged in their descendants. The accounts given
by Diod. Siculus of the mode of working the mines of Egypt (iii. 181) and of
Spain (v. 359) prove from the identity of practical details, that the Phuanicians
introduced the Oriental system. Nothing could exceed the cruelties exercised
in both countries on the er-gastula, the gangs of wretched miners, who were
composed of captives and criminals; they toiled day and night, naked, and
urged on with the lash, until death came as a welcome deliverer. In the mines
near Cartagena 40,000 men were thus employed at once (Straho, iii. 220), and
the daily returns of silver amounted to 25,000 drachma ; and one mine alone,
called Bebulo, produced to Hannibal 3 cwt. of silver daily (Plin. ‘ N. H.’
xxxiii. 6). Credite posteri. The mines were drained by hydraulic machines,
xaxjuzl, the invention of Archimedes, and imported from Egypt, just as the
steam-engines are now brought there from England, for the Spaniard never was
a meehanician. The old shafts burrowed into the mountains, by which rivers
were turned off, are distinguishable from the Moorish by being round, while
the latter are square. Job (xxviii. 7) alludes to these Phmuician tunnellings,
Murcia. MINES or ANTIQUITY. 341
the remains of some of which are still thought to be traceable at Rio Tinto,
and the S“ Spirito, near Cartagena. These shafts, the Greek aeuyam-¢,
Eueuywm, and Roman Cuniculi, were called by the natives arrmyiu, in which,
and its Greek corruption, the Iberian or Basque root ur, “ water,” is evident.
The wells, pozos, were called agangas and agogrrs, for the Romans, mere mili
tary conquerors, preserved, nay derived, these technical terms from their more
ingenious predecessors, just as the Gotho-Spaniard adopted the nomenclature
of the Moor.
The Iberians, like the modern Spaniards, rude and careless manufacturers,
took the raw material just as bountiful nature ofiered it to them, and left to
the stranger the processes of artificial perfection. Thus their bullion was
exported, as now, in pigs, or “ spread into plates” (Jer. x. 9). How little
all the processes of separation and amalgamation were known may be inferred
from the Saguntines having simply melted their gold and silver with lead
and brass, in order thereby to render it useless to Hannibal (App. ‘ B. H.’
435). It has also been ascertained that even 12 per cent. of silver is yet to be
extracted from the ancient slags, escorialcs, left by them : so imperfect was their
system of smelting. It would appear that the advanced metallurgical science
of Egypt and Phmnicia, from whom the Jews learnt their processes even of
reducing and dissolving gold (Exod. xxxii. 20), was not kept up by the colonists
of Carthage.
The Carthaginian labourers in these districts were then, as now, very poor ;
the ore was dug up by a sweat of blood, and modern Spaniards have always
neglected the surer source of wealth, agriculture, which lies on the surface of
their fertile soil; they have. like Orientals. loved to gamble; buoyed on by
their imaginations, and readily believing what they eagerly desired, they have
sighed for sudden acquisition of riches, for some brilliant treasure accident, and
have thus lost the solid substance in the attempt to catch ata glittering shadow.
The want of fuel is a serious objection; thus the juxtaposition of English
iron and coal‘ has won the Spaniards gold, to whom the angry gods denied
these gifts, while they granted richer ores. Industry, again, is wanting, that
alchemy which converts these baser substances into precious things, and solves
the doubt of the Roman philosopher, “ argentum et aurum, proprii Dei an irati
negaverint, dubio ;" and poor Spain herself has too long been a mine worked by
avarice and iniquity. The Moorish invasion led to the abandonment of these
ancient mines, as this portion of the Peninsula became a scene of domestic and
foreign warfare; and when the Moor was at last conquered, the almost simul
taneous discorcry of the New World threw into the lap of Spain a virgin source
of unexhausted wealth, it was no longer worth while to expend heavy labour
and capital on the long-neglected mines at home, when the supply could be so
well procured elsewhere, so they were closed in 1600 by a royal order.
Latterly, since the loss of the Transatlantic colonies, much attention has been
directed to these former sources of treasure; and foreign capitalists have poured
in with foreign science and machinery, and even the Spaniard, cautious as he
is in embarking his hoard in any commercial adventure, joins in this race for
gold. l t plates over their most inveterate national and even religious anti
pathies. He co-operates with Jew and Gentile, for the Rothschilds, wise as
their king Solomon, have again sent forth their agents to Tarshish, buying up
the bullion, and making advances for new operations. These are chiefly
directed by Englishmen and Frenchmen. Even the coals used for smelting are
brought from Newcastle.
Among the finest refining establishments in these metal-pregnant districts
may be named La Britannica and La de San Juan, at Alicante. The amal
gamation Works of Sun Isidorv, at Escombrera, and La Ifegerzerada, at
Almazarron, deserve notice. A new custom-house has been opened at Porman
—Portus magnus—solely for these galena mines. The bonanzas of La Espe
3-12 Rours 3l.—G-RANADA TO MURCLA. Sect. IV.
ranza, La Observacion, and Emilia, of San Gines, on the Rico Cerro de Oro,
may be visited: at S° Spirito was discovered, in 1481, a Carthaginian shaft,
supported by masonry. However, the talk of this angle of Murcia is about
ores, and the traveller will hear of nothing else : every day some new associa
tion is formed, some new ground broken. These, and all other particulars,
will be learned from his consuls at Cartagena and Alicante, or any respectable
merchant or resident.
The mineralogist and speculator is referred for additional information to the
‘ Historia Natural’ of Bowles; the ‘ Comentarios de [as Order-anzas de Minas,’
Antonio Xavier de Gamboa, folio, Mad. 1761, translated by Richard Heath
field, Lougman, 1830 ; also ‘ Regislro de lus Iklinas de la Corona,’ Tomas Gon
zalez, 2 vols. Mad. 1832; and ‘Minero Espmlol,’ Nicacio Anton Valle, Mad.
1841 ; a newspaper also was established, called El Boletin de las Minas, which
is exclusively dedicated to mining information. The best spots for the student
in these matters will be Cartagenu and Alicante, in the vicinity of which occur
the chief mines, smelting and other establishments, which are principally
carried on by French and English speculators.
with the silver-mines of antiquity,
Rourn 31.—GRANADA rc Muncm. such as Sierra de la Mina, Sierra del
Pozo, &c.; indeed, all this range, down
1-Iuetor .1 . . ll
Mclinillo . . 3 .. 411* to the Sierra de Filabres and Vera, is
Diezma . . - It .. 6 marble and metal pregnant. In these
Purullena . . 2 .. 3 districts, probably, were the Orospe
Guadix . . . 1 .. 9 dan chain; the Opa; agyugau Of StI‘fil)0
Venta de Gor . 3 .. 12
Venta de Baul . 1 .. 13 (iii. 220); the Mons Argentarius of
Baza . . . . 3 .. 16 Fest. Avienus. Bochart interprets the
Cullar - . . 4 .. 20word Orosp/led quasi Phed, Punice sil
Chirivel . . . 3 .. 23ver. Gold mines exist in the Monte
Velez Ruble . . 3 .. 26
Lumberas . . 5 .. 31del Sol, not far from Genes and Huetcr.
Lorca . . . 3 .. 34 Guadir, Acci, Arabice wadi-ash, the
Totana . . . 4 .. 38water of life, eau de vie, in its mul
Librilla . . . 4 .. 42
Murcia . . . 4 .. 46berry-groves looks more cheerful.
There is a decent posada del Sol under
This bad road is practicable for the town, near the gate, and a nice little
strong galeras and tartanus. It is better Alameda. Guadix contains 9000 souls,
to ride it, hiring horses to Lorca, and is a bishopric suifragan to Gra
whence a diligence runs to Murcia; nada, although it claims much greater
reserving, however, a power of taking antiquity and to have been converted
the horses on, if preferred. By leav by San Torcuato, one of the seven pre
ing Granada at 4 A.M. you can easily lates sent expressly to Spain by St.
reach Guadix to sleep. The city is Peter and Paul. Walk up to the
quitted by the Pzlerta de Facalausa, Plaza, with its columns of the 15th
Arabice, the pass or gate of the al century: thence to the Paseo de la
mond-trees, a two hours’ mountain Catedral, and observe the view over the
ride leads to the tolerable posada at Vega. The cathedral is unimportant,
Huetor. Hence, passin the lofty although rejoicing in the epithets of
crags, the picturesque de les and de holy and apostolical. The coro is en
scents, to Molinillo, and wild aromatic riched with many small statues, carved
dehesas to burnt-up Diezma. The arid. in pear-wood; the silleria is in exag
soil contrasts with the snowy Sierra, gerated plateresque: the pulpits are
which glitters to the r. Near Purul composed of the red and green Alpu
lenc, the miserable peasantry dwell in jarras marbles. Coming out towards
holes or cwevas, excavated from the the bishop’s palace is a. Roman stone,
soft hillocks. Many of the loftier let into the wall, and inscribed “ Colon
hills to the r. bear names connected ccis." Hence by the Guile do la .M'u
Murcia. ROUTE 3l.—GUADIX—BAZA. 343
ralla to the mined Moorish castle. stantly neglected or broken to pieces
Observe the extraordinary character by the peasants, who, like Moors,
of the environs. The whole country think they contain hidden treasures.
about the town resembles a sea, whose Baza was taken by the Christians, after
waves have suddenly been transformed a siege of seven months, Dec. 4, 1480.
into solid substances. The hillocks Isabella came in person, then and there,
rise up fantastically into conical and as everywhere else, the harbinger of
pyramidical shapes : their marly sides victory. This gentle and delicate
are excavated into eaves, the homes of queen possessed the masculine virtues
the troglodyte poor. No wonder some of our bold Bess, while a soul of Caesar
are called los dicntcs de lu Vieja, al was enshrined in the form of Lucretia.
though they are more like the teeth of She braved all hardships, hurried to
a petrified colossal crocodile than of every post of danger, regardless of
an old woman. These localities, once weather or ill heath, and appearing
covered by water, have been ploughed at the nick of time, like our Elizabeth
by the retiring floods into gullies, by at Tilbury Fort, communicated to her
which the whole district is intersected. troops her own dauntless spirit. The
Guadix is renowned for its knives, Spanish artillery was under her espe
made with a molde, or catch, by which cial management, for she perceived the
the blades can be fixed and converted power of this arm, hitherto under
into a dagger; admirable for stabbing, valued from being worked insufiicient
nothing can be ruder than this cutlery, ly. She was the soul and spirit of
which however answers Spanish pur every campaign, by providing the
poses, and that guerra al cuchillo which finance and commissariat, things rare
proved scarcely less fatal to the French in Spain, and recorded by P. Martyr
than the British bayonet. (See Alba as bclli mrcos, She pawncd her jewels
cete.) From Guadir a road leads to to pay the troops, seldom paid since;
Lanjaron, by Tiana, Lanjar, and Orgira. established military hospitals, and
Consult Ilistoz-in del Obispaclo dc Guadir maintained a regular discipline: her
y Bara. Pedro Suarez, fol. Mad. 1696. camp, says P. Martyr, resembled a
About Ii L. from Guadix are the republic of Plato's. Need it be said
baths of Gruen/1, open from August to that her armies were victorious? for
October. The accommodations, as Spaniards make fine soldiers when well
usual, are wretched ; and many visitors fed and led. She placed her battery on
prefer lodging in the cool caves of the the site of the present posito, or grain
hills to the hot and inconvenient deposit, and some of her cannon, used
houses. Leaving Guadix, whence the as lam -posts! remain near the rose
road branches oil‘ for Almeria, and plante Alameda. They are composed
threading a sea of pointed hilloeks, of bars of iron bound by hoops, and
sandy, earthy, and tawny, amid which have no wheels, being moved by strong
the csparto rush grows luxuriantly, rings. In the Colegiuta is the fine
passing a stream and a wild ascent, a tomb of the patron, Sun Maximo. The
midday halt may be made at the poor splendid Custodia was the work of
Venta de Gor. Ghaur means a pass in Juan Ruiz of Cordova. Near Bara,
Hindee, while ghur in Arabic is a bot November 3, 1810, Blake and Manuel
tom, a flat low country. The town Freire were signally beaten by the
lies to the r. Hence to Baza, 3 long French. The town was sacked by Se
L. The clay-built-looking city lies in bastiani.
a rich hog//1 or plain, surrounded by a Bnzu is renowned for rich red wines,
country ploughed up by ravines and the beverage of Granada. The women
Brobdignag furrows. B412/1, the Roman are among the‘ prettiest in Spain, and,
Basti, the Moorish Bdstah, is an agri as at Guadix, fair complexioned.
cultural town of some 10,000 souls: The female peasants clad in green
the posada is roomy and good. Frag say:/ns, with black stri es and red
ments of antiquity are constantly edgings, with their san allcd, naked
found in the Vega, and are as con feet, upright elastic step, as they carry
344 nours 31.—PANTANO on LORCA. Sect. IV.
baskets or pitchers on their heads, unresisting, was sacked by Sebastiani
are quite classical and melo-drama in April, l8l0.
tic Hebes. The Valencian costume Passing the steep Cuesta de Viotar
now begins, and the striped m'mta we enter Murcia. The high road to
takes the place of the cloak. There Lorca is carried over the ridge at el
are two local histories: one by Gonzalo Puerto de Lumbrcras : but the traveller
Argote de Molina; the other by Pedro should make a mountain détour to the
Suarez, fol. Mad. l606. l. by the noble castle of Xiquena, dining
Hence by a poplar Alameda to Cullar at the venta on the opposite side of
de Baza, which lies in a ravine below the river, and beyond the picturesque
its Moorish ruin, and in a valley of mills. The stone pines are magnifi
maize and vines. It is a straggling cent. Make then a detour to the l.
place of some 5000 souls built on its to the Pantano of Lorca: an enormous
stream. Half ofthe dwellings are mere dyke, called el puente, is built of a fine
holes dug in the hill-side, in which yellow stone across the gathering
the rustics burrow and breed like ground ofa narrow valley, 1500 ft. high,
rabbits, and they are all fur in their and cOnsisting0f7 rampsorcaminos,each
sheepskin jackets. Here, in August, I2 ft. wide; the base being some 84 ft.
1811, Freire was again beaten to shreds thick. This dams up the rivulet into a
even by Godinot, one of the worst of reservoir lake; the accumulated waters
French generals, whose incapacity are doled out to the lands below, water
allowed his foe, skilled in flight, to being the thing wanting in this dessi
escape (Toreno, xvi.). cated district. These Pantanos are the
Ascending a broken ridge, the mi precise Byzantine u§p¢z>.m, the Bendts by
serable Ventrz de las Vertientes marks which Constantinople is supplied. This
the summit, from whence diuortia aqua one was a speculation of the company
rum, the “ parted waters,” descend both de Prades, formed in 1775, by whom
ways. Chiriuel is in the district of flax money was raised for the Murcian
and hemp, lino y caflamo. The latter, canal at 7§ per cent., which, being
when cut, is soaked for 8 days, until guaranteed by Charles IIl., was lent
the rind rots; it is then beaten on round readily. In 1791 Godoy reduced it to
stones, and drawn through an iron 3 per cent., deducting the whole
toothed machine. The whole process amount of the previously paid dif
is unwholesome, for the offensively ference of 41}. The dyke across the
smelling soakings produce fever, while gorge. finished in 1789, was filled for
the minute particles which fiy olf dur the first time in Feb. 1802, and gave
ing the beating irritate the lungs and way April 30, destroying the suburb of
induce consumption. Velez el Rubia is San Christobal, and much of the city,
approached by an awful league, la del and injuring everthing for nearly 50
Fr'ayl8, which is at least 5 miles long. m. below. Similar was the reservoir
The stream is pretty; and the two and the destruction of the Sitte March,
rocky knobs of the Frag/le and La the work of S0lomon’s Queen of Sheba,
Jlonja are singular. Velez el Rubia which swept entire cities from the face
is a poor but well-peopled place of of Arabia (Sale’s ‘ Koran,’ i. 12).
some 12,000 souls, in a most fertile Something on a smaller scale occurred
district, which also abounds in fine at Helmforth,Yorkshire, in 1852, but as
jaspers: the white houses lie under that particular dam was in Chancery
the castle in a picturesque hill-girt who can wonder at the ruin ? The Mur
situation. Near it is the fucnte del cians, in remembrance of these aqueous
gato, a ferruginous mineral water, avalanches, oppose the repairs of the
and excellent for nervous disorders. Puntunos. It is with them a question
The huge posada del Rosario was built of fire v. water-either to be burnt up
- in l785 by the Duke ofAlva, who owns by the sun or drowned.
large estates in these parts. The ex Following the lines of damage for 2
terior is grand, the interior is all want. L., we reach Lorca, Elicroca, Lorcah,
Velez cl Rubia, although unarmed and with a decent inn, de San Vicente, and
Murcia. ROUTE 31 .—LORCA—CARAVACA. 345
diligence to Murcia: the town is built Triana, in remembrance of the capital
under the Monte de Oro, on the banks of Btetica ; "the hugest tinajas are made
of the Sangonera, or Guadalentin, here. Near Totana commences La
which soon falls into the Segura. Lorca Sierra dc Espaiia, in the snow of which
is a dull, rambling old city, with steep the gipsies trafiic. Totana contains
and tortuous streets, but clean and 8000 souls, and has a Colegiutti, a fine
good houses: lnhab. under 22,000, fountain, supplied by ahandsome aque
and recently impoverished by mining duct. The vegetation, where there is
gamblings. This city was the Moorish water, is tropical : tall whispering canes
key of Murcia. The castle—a fine and huge aloes, towering up in can
specimen-—is worth visiting for the delabras, are intermingled with palm
superb view it commands. The tower trees and gigantic sunflowers, whose
Espolon, and the long lines of walls, seeds are eaten by the poor. The Bar
are Moorish. That called the Alfon rucas, or low cottages of the peasants,
si-na is Spanish, and was built by have projecting roofs, generally
Alonso el Sabin, who gave the city for thatched with sisca, and gable ends,
its arms his bust on this tower, with a on which the cross of Caravuca,’°‘ the
key in one hand and a sword in the relic of these localities, is elevated;
other, with the legend, — this now supersedes the Holy Face,
the Rostro of Jaen. For relies in
“ Lorca solum gratum, castrum super astra Spain, like our county magistrates,
loeatum,
Ense minas gravis, et regni tutissima clavis.” have small power out of their juris
diction. In the distance the cathedral
The facade of the Colqgiczta is Co tower of Murcia rises above level
rinthian and composite. The interior plantations of oranges, mulberries,
is dark, but rejoices in relics of its golden maize, and red pepper. The
patron San Patricio, a rival to St. peasants, with handkerchiefs on heads
Patrick. The tower has a Murcian like turbans, and white kilts, look,
pepper-box dome. The old Plaza, with from this contrast of linen with bronzed
its arched prison and rambling streets, ' Caravaca lies up in the hills, 14 L. trom
are picturesque. There is a tolerable Murcia, on the road tn Albacete (18 L.) The
Gothic church, La Santa Maria. The town is pleasantly placed at the head of a vega,
walks are pleasant, especially the under a tine castle ; ascend to the Cap_tlla. JIGJOT
of the church, the site of the local miracle, and
Alameda, near the river. In the Cor notice the Basso relieves, the votive gifts, and
redera is a pillar and Roman inscrip the Cross itself. The grand festival is May 3.
tion. Images of San Vicente Ferrer The cross is brought down with wonderful
pomp to the town and bathed. The waters
(see Valencia) now begin to appear. then become miraculously impregnated. and the
Lorca was twice sacked by the French, peasants and patients plunge in. Compare this
and especially in Aug. 1810, by Sebas with ll Santa Lago near Rome, where the
tiani. Here, Feb. 1811, Freire fled as pagan priests of Cybele dipped the image with
an annual pompa in the Alma, which became
usual on the mere approach of Soult. instantly endued with medicinal and sunative
There is a local history, ‘Antiyvicdudes, properties.-Ovid Fast. iv. v. 395. Am. Marc.
&c., de Lorca.’ Pedro-Morote Perez xxxiii. 6. The anns of Caravaca are a " red
Chaecos, fol. Murcia, 1741; and Orde cow, with a cross on its back ;" all this has
reference to the captive Don Gines Perez Chiri
nanzas y Priuilegios, 4t0. Gran. 1713. nos, who being very desirous, May 3, 1231, to
From Lorca to Murcia the route is say mass to a Moorish king of the ill-tmened
arid and desolate from want of water. name Deoeyt, had no cross, whereupon angel:
brolugllilt tklis identical one down from cl‘1eav§[n,
Thtana and the mud-built Librilla are racles
an t have e oor
everwas instantl
since converte .Rings,
beenywrought. i
the head-quarters of Murcian gipsies,
whose costume is very gay and ornate. when rubbed against the cross, protect the
wearers from illness. The peasants fancied that
They are the innkeepers of the district. this Cross would secure them from Seb<\stiuni’|
Their grand rendezvous is at Palmas pillagers, which it did not. Volumes have been
de San Juan, where they dance the written on its past powers. Consult Cuatro
Toca, Ole, and Mandel. Totana is ciento Milagros, Jaime Bleda, 8vo. Val. 1600;
Cuseales,
Mad. 1615p.; 17ditto
; Ilistoria,
Martin Juan
C. Id_e. lllpbles.
'nero, o
divided by these dark children of the
Zend into two portions, called 5'01-illa y Madrid, 1722; Madoz, v. 522.
Q3
346 ROUTE 31.—or.AxAnA TO MURCIA. Sect. IV.
flesh, as dusky as Moors. The pretty Newcastle; had he bequeathed a por
women are made more so by their tion of his brains, this Dunciad sec and
ballet costume of blue sagas and city might have profited, for it is the
yellow boddices. Murcia is entered dullest city in Spain, which is no trifle,
by the pleasant Alameda del Carmen, and one of the driest; but whenever
traversing the Plaza with its highly rain is wanted, the miraculous image
worked iron balconies, and thence over of our Lady of Fuensanta, the patroness
the muddy, half-exhausted St-gura, by of Murcia, is brought in grand proces
a fine bridge built in I720. sion from Algczares, 1 L.; the priest
Inns: Posada Francesa, and one in the having first consulted his barometer
Plaza de Sm Leandra ; other posud.-is are before fixing the day. This little
the San Antonio and la de la Alhoudiga. town sends forth the peculiar itinerant
La del Comercio is in the Calle de la hucksters and pedlars, the Jllontu/icscs of
Ramble del Cuerno. In the Calle Murcia. Her sanctuary, is also a fa
Mayor are two decent casas de pupilos; vourite holiday lounge for devout per
one kept by Juan Gutierez, the other sons. The image is duly brought to
by Dona Maria Romero. Consult the cathedral during the September
‘ DiSc!u‘S0s His-toricos,’ Cascales, fol. Novenas.
Murcia, I614. In the first edition there The streets of Murcia are generally
are 135 coats of arms, which are usually narrow, and many of the houses are
placed before the 20th discourse. The painted in pink and yellow colours;
work was reprinted at Jlfurict, in l7 75. those of the Hidalgos are decorated
A day will suflice for Murcia: the with armorial bearings; observe, for
capital of its province, it is placed in example, the Casa Pinares, in the
the centre of the most fertile Huerta, the Calle de la Plateria. The city arms are
Moorish al-Bastan, “ garden,” which six crowns with an orle of lions and
extends 5 L. in length by 3 in breadth, castles. Visit the Alcazar, fortified in
and is watered from a magnificent I405 by Enrique III. N.B. Ascend
Moorish contrivance called the Con the cathedral tower, which was begun
traparada, and by the river, which is in 1522 by Cardinal Mateo de Langa,
srmyrado, or bled to death. Silk is and finished in 1766. The stone chain
the staple, and red-pepper powder, is in compliment to the Velez family,
which is sent all over Spain. Murcia whose armorial bearing it is; crowned
was built by the Moors, from the with a dome, this tower, the type of
materials of the Roman Murgi, Mnrci most other belfries in this province,
Arcilacis. It was called Mursiah, rises in compartments, like a drawn
and Hadhrat Tadmir, the “court of out telescope; from the summit the
Theodomir,” its independent Gothic eye sweeps far and wide; below lies
prince. It neither is nor ever was the circular city, with flat bluish roofs,
dedicated to Venus, the lover of myr and cane pigeon-houses. The Huerta,
tles, as some, misled by mere sound, where there is water, is green; where
have afiirmed. The Segura is the that ceases, as beyond Alcantarilla,
Tader, Terebis, Serebis of the ancients, the tawny desert recommences. The
the Skehurah of the Moors. The city plain is studded with farms and droop
contains about 35,000 souls, and is the ing palm-trees; the pointed isolated
see of a bishop sutfragan to Toledo, hill to the E. is the Monte Aqudo,
who is still called de
C/u-tayenrz, whence a title is taken, like our Mon
which was originally the site of the tague and Egremont. The cathedral
metropolitan, and since the removal, was begun in 1353, and altered in
the two cities have abhorred each 1521 ; the facade, by Jayme Bort, is a.
other most devoutly. Murcia was churrigueresque. Notice the .l)OI'tll(Z(l dc
taken from the Moors in 1240, by los Apostulcs; inside observe the Gothic
St. Ferdinand; it rebelled, and was niches behind the Coro,the carved Si/l¢’1"|'a
reconquered by Alonso el Sabio, who and organ, and the chapel, with an alto
left, as a precious legacy, his bowels relievo, in stone, of the Nativity; the
to the dean and chapter, i. e. coals to sculpture is not good, but the etiect, in
Murcia. noon; 31 .-—MURCIA—SEBASTIANI. 347
the dim light, is striking; opposite, in inches high, carved in wood by Alonso
a gaudy frame, is a pretty Madonna and Cano, and inscribed; it is the gem of
Child ; the Retablo is full of old carving; Murcia. The traveller may walk
the stones near the high altar are through the Traperia and 1’lutc1-fa,
picked out with gold, as at Toledo; busy streets, with summer awnings
here, in an urnrr, are the precious bowels stretched above, and sparkling dressed
of Alonso el Sabio; and opposite, in a peasantry grouped below; here are
silver vase, are portions of the tutelar the shops of the silversmiths and the
saints San Fulgencio and Santa Floren sellers of m/mtas y alforjas, i. e. gay
tina, whose brother was the great arch party-coloured striped mantles and
bishop San Isidoro. The Sucristia saddle-bags. The mantas, which are
mayor has some fine dark wood-carving, much renowned, used to have a knot
of 1525 ; the portal is rich plateresque; of ribbons in the corner, generally
much of the splendid plate was stolen added by the fair hand of a querillrl.
and melted by the French, especially The Almmli, Arabice “ Granary,”
the Oustodia and Copon of pure gold. is still the corn magazine; the
The smaller silver Custodia, which post-oflice and prison contain some
escaped miraculously, is ornamented Moorish remains_: there is also a
with grapes and spiral columns, and Plaza de Torus. The favourite walks
was made by Perez de Montalto, 1677. are the Carmen, the Glorieta, and the
As usual, this cathedral has a parish Arcnul, the “ Strand.” The red
church annexed, dedicated to the granite monument to Ferdinand VII.
Virgin, and called La Santa Maria. In is heavy, and the weirs and water
the Capilla del Sagrario is an excellent mills would be more picturesque were
Marriage of the Virgin, by Juanes, the stream of a better colour. The
painted in 1516 for Juan de Molina: admirer of gipsies should walk out
see the inscription. The Cupilla de los towards el Mulecon, where they con
Velez contains some singular stone gregate. There is a good botanical
chains, the badge of the family; the garden, an ill-provided hospital, and
portal of bluish-veiued marble is en an establishment for spinning esparfo,
riched with statues of royal and local like flax or hemp, originated by a
saints, in which figures San Hermene foreigner, Mons. Simonet. A Senor
gildo, who was born at Cartagena: the Estor has a gallery of pictures.
interior is octagonal, and incongruous The Mnreians, although dull, are
in style and ornament. Observe the no cowards; thus in the War of the
St. Luke writing his Gospel, by Fran Succession, its gallant bishop Luis de
cisco Garcia, l607, and the Pasos, the Beluga beat off the Germans, and held
chains and sprigs of a tree, and the it for Philip V. This province was
gigantic skeleton. This cathedral suf never permanently occupied by the
fered much in the earthquake of 1829, French, although overrun by Soult’s
when the tower, facade, and dome of brother and Sebastiani, who came
the transept were cracked. The capa rather to levy contributions than from
cious episcopal palace near the cathe any military reasons (Toreno, xv.),
dral a vile Rococo thing of the bad Sebastiani was its Alaric; he, in
period of 1768, and made worse by March. 1810, sallied from Granada
its pink and green daubings, is here with 6000 men; Freire, although he
an object of vast admiration. had 19,000 men, did not dare to face
Murcia has little fine art; much of him (Nap. xiii. 6), but fell back on
the carving in it and the province is Alicante, where there were English to
by Francisco Zarcillo, who died here support him,as at San Mareial. Sebas
in 1781, and who, had he lived in a tiani was the first who arrived on the
better age, possessed the capabilities 23rd of April, 1810, at unplundered
of a true artist. In the church of San Murcia; having pledged his_ word of
Nicholas is an exquisite San Antonio, honour that persons and property
in a brown Capuchin dress, about l8 should be sacred, he entered the confida
348 noon: 32.——MURCIA T0 nwmo. Sect‘. IV.
ing, unresisting town, “ assumed royal Room 32.—MUBCIA T0 Mmarn.
honours, and, because the municipality Lorqul . - . - . . 3
had not welcomed him—son of a Corsi Clem . - . . . . - 4 7
can cooper!——with snlcos, fined them Torre . . . . . . .
.. 10 3
Hellin . . - - . .. 13. 3
100,000 dollars; after having got to Vcnta Nucva . . ... 17. 4
gether some five quintals of plate from Pozo de la Penn . . . .
.. 19 2
churches, and convents, and private Albtcete . . - . - .. 21. 2
houses, he returned to Granada ‘ laden Madrid . . . . . .
. . 56 35
with plunder and infamy.’ ” Toreno’s This is an uninteresting route; the
(xi.) details are fully borne out by road is still bad, although there has
Schepeler (ii. 537), see also Madoz (xi. been long much talk about improve
753). To this fatal sack Murcia owes ments, which willbe a national benefit,
its denudation of wealth and art. by opening this country with sea-ports,
Sebastiani was afterwards imitated and bringing law and security into a
by Soult’s brother, who during one of wild bush district, the lair ofall sorts of
his ruzzia visits was feasting in the ill-conditioned persons. Meantime the
bishop's palace when the inhabitants, traveller must ride or get to Albuvete
headed by Martin de Cervera, rose on as he can, and there take up the
their plunderers; Cervera was killed, Valencian diligences. The fertility
and the site of his death is still pointed where there is water is unrivalled:
out. Gen. Sonlt rose, panic-struck, the cochineal or Nopal is abundant;
from table, and fled, committing atro the population is agricultural, and the
cities too frightful to be narrated. See women busy spinners. At Lorqui, near
Toreno, xvii. and Schepcler, iii. 497. the Segura, much rice is grown; near
There are regular diligences to and it is the site where Publius and Cneius
from Lorca, Cartagena, and Alicante, Scipio were defeated and killed by
but to. Madrid there is only a galcra; Massinissa, 211 n.c. The Romans had
the common carriage in these parts taken 2~l,000 Spaniards into their pay,
is the Valencinn one-horsed tm-tuna, and were deserted by their allies in
which may be hired at from twenty the critical moment, and left to bear
to twenty-four reals per day, not in the whole brunt single-handed.
cluding the keep of the driver and his Cieza, pop. 6000, rises. above the
horse. ln the vicinity of Murcia are river on a peninsula table over plains
many mineral and sulphur baths; the of incredible fertility; on the oppo
most frequented are those of AI‘0/ten/1, site hill are the remains of an ancient
4 L.; Allzamz, 6 L.: the hot baths Roman town. Hellilr, llunum, a.
are snbterraneous, and supposed to be town of 7¢100 souls, lies on the slope
of Roman origin; Azwaque, 2 L. S. of the Segura chain ; the Posada
of Hellin. The accommodations are nueva is the best; the Roman city was
very bad, and the local doctors swear at‘ Binaseda, where vestiges may be
that the waters are dangerous if taken traced. Hellin is a tidy town, of8000
without their previous advice. This souls, Well paved, with neatly-painted
corner of Spain is the chief volcanic houses, and an air of comfort and
district of the Peninsula, which aseo; the parroquia is very fine, With
stretches from Cabo de Gata to near 3 aisles; obsewe the boveda, sup
Cartagena; the earthquakes are very ported by pillars, and the masonry
frequent. This district lies nearly in and the marble pavement at the en
the same parallel as Lisbon, where trance; from the hermitage of San
earthquakes and volcanic rocks also Rosario, in the old castle, the view
occur; and the same line, if extended is extensive; the P0308, or graven
westward, would touch the Azores, images, are also worth notice. Near
which are also volcanic ; and eastward Hellin, 2 L. S., are the mineral baths
would run through Sicily and Smyrna, of Azuraque, and, distant 4 L., the
both which localities present the same celebrated mines of sulphur known to
class of phenomena. the Romans.
Mui-c121. ROUTE 33.—1IURCIA T0 csnmcnxs. 349
-Hellin was dreadfully sacked by the ing factories on the coast, and made no
French under Montbrun (see Sche attempts at pushing conquests into the
peler, iii. 495); and afterwards became interior; the Carthaginians, who sought
the point where Joseph, flying from in Spain for an indemnification of their
Madrid, and Soult from Seville, after loss of Sicily, after the first Punic war,
Marmont's rout at Salamanca, united carried out a system of aggression and
with Suchet; the misconduct of Bal extension.
lesteros, by disobeying the Duke’s A full account of the capture of
orders to place himself in the Sierra Carthagena by Scipio is given by Livy
dc A/camz, left the way open to the (xxvi. 42), and a still better one by
enemy to regain Madrid: Socarros de Polybius (lib.x). Like the Duke in re
Lsp-zfla. From Hellin there is a wild gard to Ciudad Rodrigo in our times,
mountain track to Manznnares, 14 L. Scipio pounced on the fortress before the
through the Sierra de Alcaraz. The enemy could relieve it; he formed his
high road to Madrid and Valencia is plans with such secrecy that neither
entered at Pozo de la Pefiu ; for which friend nor foe even suspected his inten
and Albaccte see Rte. 106. tion. The Carthaginians, like modern
Spaniards, were quite unprepared; they
had only I000 men in garrison, never
ROUTE 33.—MUBCIA TO Osanonxs. dreaming, says Polybius, that any one
9 L. would even think of attacking a place
Those passing to Alicante may either reputed to be so strong, and Scipio,
go direct in the diligence, in some who knew the importance of taking
ll h., or they may take the one to them by surprise, gave them no time
Cnrtagena, 3 h., and then the steamer; for preparations; he stormed it by ford
or they may ride from Cartagena ing the marsh during a low tide, and
to Orihuela, and then take up the took it in one day.
Murcian diligence to Alicante, by “ All Spain was in this one city ;”
which means they will see Elche, the the booty was prodigious. Even Livy
Palmyra of Europe, the plan we should was ashamed of the enormous lying;
suggest. Proceeding to Cartagena, “ mentiendi modus adeo nullus.”
after crossing the Segura, the well Scipio’s conduct as a general was ex
planted good road soon ascends a ceeded by that as a man; brave as
ridge, and, passing el Puerta, descends merciful, he scorned to tarnish his
into the uninteresting salitrose plain ; great glory with the dross of pecula
the Espurio flourishes on this parched tion, and in his chivalrous generosity
desert, where the effects of drought are to the vanquished, and his high-bred
unmistakeable. lnns, Cuatro J\‘a.cz'ones, delicacy towards the women, deserves
Fun:/a del Leon : but bad is the best. the signal honour of being compared to
Cartagena, xxp>¢n3m vi I21, Car our Duke. Although the loss of this
thago nova, was the new Carthage naval arsenal was the first blow to the
founded by the Barca family, when power of the Carthaginians in Spain,
they meditated making themselves in their leaders,models of modern juntas,
dependent rulers of Spain (Justin. xxi. at first concealed the disaster, then
4); this name is a double pleonasm; attributed it to accident, and next un
Carthage Karth hadtha, meaning it dervalued its importance, to deceive
self the “new city,” in reference to the people.
old Tyre. The admirable port stood Cartagena continued to flourish
opposite to the Carthaginian coast and under the Romans, who now called it
half-way between Gaddir, Cadiz, and “ Colonia Victrix Julia.” All the
Barcino, Barcelona; it was their grand ancient learning is collected by Ukert
arsenal; their Sebastopol or naval base (i. ii. 400). The place was all but de
for aggressive operations, when they stroyed by the Goths, who were not a
departed from the policy of the Phoeni naval people; and San Isidoro, who was
cians, which, eminently pacific and born there in 595, speaks of it as then
commercial, was satisfied with found made desolate by them (Orig. xv. 1).
350 noun: 33.——CARTAGENA. Sect. IV.
Cartagena is now a Plum de Armas, should examine the sea weeds by
and gives the name to a bishopric, which the quays and groins are tapes
although Murcia has been the See tried. The island, La Islata or little
since 1219, made so at the petition of‘ island, 2t} m. from the narrow en
the clergy, who were afraid of the sea trance, is also called La Escombrern, a
pirates; for the ecclesiastical history corruption of the ancient name Seem
and hagiography, consult ‘Discursns baria, from the scombri or mackrel
de la Ciu/lad Cartagena,’ Fr°- Cascales, rom which such famous pickle was
8vo., Valencia, 1598; reprinted at the made (Strabo, iii. 239). Visit the
end of his Tablas Bnelicas, 8vo., Mad., arenal. The best street in Cartagena
1779. ‘ Cartagena dz Espaful ill! is the Calle Illa]/or, the finest Plaza is
strada,’ Leandro Soler, 2 vols., 4to, La Merced. There is plenty of good
Granada, 1614; reprinted at Murcia, red marble for ornamental purposes.
in 1777. ‘Inscripciones,’ Conde de To see the arsenal, an order must be
Lumiarcs, 4to, Murcia, 1777-78. procured from the Commandante de
Cartagena, now much decayed, is Marina; but ruin, neglect, and empti
a true picture of Spain, fallen from ness prevail everywhere, and the tra
its pride of place, in the general na veller will be pained when he walks
tional paralysis; it scarcely contains round the silent quays; Terret solitudo
30,000 Inhab., instead of the 60,000 of et tacentes loci-—nothing is busy or
1786, when Charles II-I. endeavoured noisy but the summer grillo, chirping
to force a naval establishment. This over rotting hulks and the skeleton of
far-famed arsenal was so reduced, that the navies of Spain. At the head
Toreno records, when the war of inde of the harbour is a fine parade, minus
pendencc broke out, there was not even men, and a marine school, minus
lead for bullets; the few unserviceable scholars. Everything bespeaks a
ships then in it were only saved by country out of elbows and hors de
our Capt. Hargood, after infinite difii combat. The fortifications, barracks,
culties, raised by the oflicials, who sus hospitals, arsenals, extensive rope
pected him of evil motives. Yet here walks, foundries, basins, and dock
were fitted out those fleets which were yards are fine, all that is wanting is,
crushed at Cape St. Vincent and Tra life; the docks were formerly pumped
falgar. Cartagena, like El Ferrol, La out by the galley-slaves, and the details
Carraca, and other Spanish naval ar of Townshend and Swinburne, eye-wit
senals, is in a wretched condition,not nesses, recall the hell under earth,
withstandin its noble buildings, superb and the murderous system of the Car
arsenal, an grand docks, in which thaginians, described by Diod. Sic.
only ships, men, and means are minus.(v. 360). The port of Cu;-tagcna, now
The port, scooped out by the mightythere is no navy, and commerce pre
hand of nature, “ impenso Naturaa ad fers Alicante, is chiefly used by the
juta favore " (Sil. Ital. xv. 220), alone steamers which touch going up or down
remains the same; owing nothing to the coast. The lead and silver mines
the care of man, nor to be spoilt by his promise future prosperity; meantime
neglect, it is the best on this eastern the fish of this coast is excellent, espe
and harbourless coast, and was rankedcially the foludo. The tunny catching,
with July and August by the admiral the export of barrilla, and the mining
of Philip II., when the monarch de and smelting, are the chief occupations
manded which was his safest harbour: of the population. A glass-manufac
here even the navy of England might tory has recently been established by
ride. It is accurately described by an Englishman, as here nature fur
Virgil (1En. i. 163); “Est in successu nished abundantly the raw materials
longo locus,” &c. The 4 h_ills described of sand and alcali, which no native
by Polybius remain unchanged, save ever thought of combining.
their names: they still fringe the bay Cartagena, during the Peninsular
and render it landlocked and lake war, being defended by the English,
like, like Balaclava. The botanist was, like the similarly circumstanced
fl[urcz'a. ROUTE 34.—CARTAGENA TO ALICANTE, 351
Cadiz, Tarifa, and Alicante, never by F. Martinez, 1612. Orihnela was
possessed by the French, in spite of all made a bishopric in 1265, and is suffra
their numbers and et‘l'orts. The town gan to Toledo. The principal build
is dull and unhealthy, and the water ings are the cathedral, which being
brackish. The swamp el Almojar is small, was enlarged and barbarised in
left imperfectly drained, as if to breed 1829 by one Ripa; the armario in the
fever and pestilence. The stone used Sacristia may be looked at ; observe the
in building is friable, and adds to the S-zm Francisco, the Colvgio dc los Predica
dilapidated look. The traveller may dores, with cinque—cento windows: in the
ascend some of the heights for the S':mto Domingo is a sort of Museo of bad
view; either of those of the chief pictures and worse books. Orih uela is a
forts, Las Galcrus, La Atalaya, or San long, straggling, over-churched town,
Julirm. They are very fine, and only inhabited by wealthy proprietors and
now want guns and a garrison; yet agriculturists: pop. under 17,000. The
even these, when fully armed, in university is now suppressed. There
1585, our gallant Drake—-called el is an old prison near the I’la dc Fruta,
pi/-uta Ingles in 1850 by Madoz, v. 597 and a fine gate of the Colegio, 1548; a
—laughed to scorn, when he took and modern bishop's palace, 1733, with a
sacked the town, “ singeing another of sort of library. The municipal archives
‘the King of Spain’s whiskers.” The are curious. The alameda del C’/torro
alcazar was built in 1244 by Alonso el is charming. The best point oflview is
Sabio, who gave the city for arms from the Jlo-nte del Castillo and the
“ that castle washed by waves.” How (,'ole_qz'o de Sun Miguel, itself a fine ob
ever torpid man and water, the ele ject from below. The Segura divides
ment of hatred against their neighbour the town, and often injures it by under
Murcia burns fiercely: they never mining the foundations; however it
have forgotten or forgiven the re fertilizes one of the richest plains in
moval of the see. the world: the vegetation is gigantic,
and the oleanders are absolutely trees.
Ronrn 34-.——CARTAGEI\'A cro According to the proverb, the' corn
Anrcmrn. plains of Orihuela are independent even
of rain: Llueva 0 no llucvrt, trigo en Ori
The coast road is 18 L., and very huela. There is an excellent treatise
indifferent. Cu/20 dc Palos, the S.E. on the irrigation of this. lzuerta by
Cape of Spain, lies 6 L. to the E., and Roc/.1 do Togores, 1832. The maritime
is the termination of nridge of hills. strip is sandy, and studded with brack
The track passes by the shallow land ish lakes (lugmws), from which salt
locked lake la Encrmizada de Jllurcia. is extracted. From Orilmela to Alicanfe
The ride to Orihuela is 9 L. over plains are also 9 L.—2 to Albatera, 3 to Elclw,
which produce the esparto, barillu, and 4 on: there is a sort of a dili
palmito, and orozuz (liquorice). Cross gence.
ing the ridge at the Venta de San Leaving Orihuela, to the rt. rises the
Pedro, the basin of the Segura and the metal-pregnant ridge cl rico cerro dc
province of Valencia are entered. oro. The tropical country and climate
Orflzuela, the Anriwelah of the Moor, are very remarkable: the dusky pea
still looks oriental amid its palm-trees, santry in their white b/-rq/as and striped
square towers, and domes. It was the muntas look like Greeks; the thatched
Gothic Orcelis, and was well defended cottage of Murcia now gives place to
after the battle of the Guadalete. Theo long, low, white, flat-roofed Eastern
doric here made a stand, and, by dress buildings, with few windows, and girt
ing up the women as soldiers on the by ‘beauteous palm-trees. Callosa lies
ramparts, obtained excellent terms from to the rt., under its castle-crowned
’Ab-du-l-’aziz, and retained his sove rock, with a good church of the time
reignty for life, being called Tadmir of Charles V., and images by Zarcillo.
Ben Gobdos, the Son of the Goth Excellent csteras are made here. This
(Conde, i. 50). There is a local history district is very subject to earthquakes;
352 noun: 35.—PALM TREES. Sect. IV.
thus one in March, 1829, destroyed long before Linnaeus discovered the
many villages, and particularly llbrre sex of plants; the females bear fruit,
Vieja, near the sea, and its lagu1_|a, which ripens in November. The dates
consequently San Emigdio, the especial are inferior to those of Barbary; the
tutelar against los temblores de tierra, ordinary are much used as fodder for
has since been rather in disrepute. cattle. When ripe, they hang in yel
3 L. from Orihuela, on the 1., is Crevil low clusters underneath the fan-like
lente, long the hilly lair of the bandit leaves, which rise, the umbrella of
Jaime El Barbuda, immortalized by the desert, in an ostrich-like plume
those charming writers Huber and from a golden eirclet. The gatherers
Lord Carnarvon. He surrendered to ascend the single branchless, cable-like
Don Jose‘ Miste, on solemn promise of stems dexterously, with only a rope
pardon and promotion for himself and and bare feet. The palm-trees‘ are
company, whereupon Don José hung decreasing: the male and barren ones
him forthwith, and put his head up at yield a profit by their leaves, which
Crevillente, over the prison, and then are tied together from April to June,
shot the rest of the gang. Cusas de and blanched, as gardeners do lettuces,
Ifsprzfm. So in 1365. Enrique III. in or Spanish mothers bandage up their
vited Eslava, the gallant governor of babies; by this cruel process-—high
Orihuela, to a meeting, and had him treason to the majestic palm—some
murdered. 10 stems are obtained from each,
There is only one Elche in Europe: which are worth a dollar in Spain and
itis a city ofpalms: the Bedouin alone Italy, and are used for the processions
is Wanting, for the climate is that of of Palm Sunday, being certain de
the East. There is a decent posada, fences all over Spain against lightning,
and a good local history, ‘ lllice,’ Juan if blessed by the priest who sells them ;
Antonio Mayans y Siscar, 4to. Va which, most fancifully and intricately
lencia, 1771. Elche, lllice, lies about plaited, are then hung up at the house
2 L. from the sea; here winter is un balconies, and are cheaper, at least,
known; the town is flourishing, and if less philosophical, than a conductor
contains some 18,000 souls; it is di made of iron. The festival of the
vided by a ravine, over which is _a Virgin, Aug. 15, in the Santa Maria, is
handsome bridge. The aspect is Ori curious and picturesque. Those going
ental: the reddish Moorish houses, from Elc/ze to Madrid, without visiting
with flat roofs and few windows, rise Alicante (for the latter route see Rte.
one above another. To the left is the 37), must ride to Albzcete. 24 L., that
Alcazar-, nowa prison, while all around is, until the projected royal railroad be
waves the graceful palm. The Santa completed.
~]l/[aria has a fine portico, organ, ex
cellent masonry, and a Tabernacle Roars 35.—ELc11s TO MADRID.
made of precious marbles. From the Monforte . . . . - . 4
tower the extent of the palm plantations Monovar . . . . . 2 6
can be understood: they girdle the Venta de las Quebradas 3 9
city on all sides, thousands, in num Yecla. . . . . . 2 11
Venm Nueva 2 13
ber, and many of a great age. The Monte Alegre . . . . 2 15
palm, however, is infinitely more grace Venta de la Higuera . . 1 16
ful when seen singly, or in isolated Pretola . . . . . . 3 19
Pozo de la Peiia . . . 3 22
groups, than thus huddled in belts Albacete . . . . . 2 24
and number. Raised from dates, and
fed with a brackish water, they grow The road enters the Sierras by the-'
slowly, to some 50 feet in height, basin of the river Elche, and passes
each rim in the stem denoting a year. the Pantcmo, of which there are several
The males bear white flowers, which in these districts. The sides of the
blossom in May; and with the farina hills are terraced into gardens. After
the females are impregnated. The a narrow gorge, the road ascends to
Moors made this use of the male dust the Pcdreras de Elche, and thence down
Jrlurcia. ROUTE 36.—E1.c1n~: T0 XATIVA. 353
to Monforte, in its pleasant valley,with winds over lus Salinetas, amid rocks of
its once strong mount fort, now a ruined reddish marble, through the fruitful
castle; thence enteringa broken coun valley of Elda and Petrol; although
try to Monorar,a flourishing town built scarcely 2 m. apart, the inhabitants of
on a slope. Near it is the clmrco these two places keep up the-ancient
amargo, a salt mineral water, excellent hatred of creed and race: but nothing
for cutaneous diseases. 3 L. S.E., near is so difiicult to love as your neigh
Pinoso is the celebrated Cerro, or Ca bour, and therefore it is positively
beza de la Sal, an entire ridge of salt, commanded. The Petrelians of mo
hard as crystal, and of variegated risco origin, although speaking Valen
, colour. It extends E. and W. nearly cian, abhor the Eldanians, who speak
2 L., and rises 200 ft. The cuevus or Castilian, and hold themselves only
salt caverns, especially La Pared, well as descendants of conquerors and old
deserve a visit from the geologist. 2 L. Christians. Passing the Pantano and
to the N.W. oflllonavar is a lake called Sax, which rises on its conical, castle
Salinas, which occasionally overflows crowned hill, and is famous for its
and fills the atmosphere with fever. bread, the route runs along the fron
The road now re-enters Murcia, tier of Murcia; the hills abound in
and, emerging from the hills, arrives aromatic plants, and such is their
at Yccla, a large town of 14,000 souls, traditionary fame, that Moorish her
built under the Oerro del Calvario, from balists even yet occasionally come
the ruined castle on which height the hereto gather simples. This broken
view is splendid. The district was frontier country is full of points of
peopled by the Romans, and vestiges defence and hill forts: it was the scene
of their buildings are yet to be seen at of sundry skirmishes between Suchet
Jlarispar/'0, now a farm, where anti and Sir John Murray, and discreditable
quities are constantly found, and as alike to both. At Blur (Apiariuni,
constantly neglected and destroyed. and it is still famous for honey) to
Monte Alegre, 3500 souls, has a good the rt., the latter lost his guns, which
posadu, and a ruined Moorish castle (as at Tarragona) hethought a “ trifle,”
on the hill Serratlllu. Now we enter and “ rather meritorious,” to use the
one of the richest grain portions of contemptuous expression of the Duke,
Murcia. T0 the I. of the Venta de la writing about these wretched per
Higuera is the salt lake, much fre formances (Disp. Aug. 8, 1813).
quented for cutaneous disorders. After Villena is placed in a fertile plain
Pretola or Petrola, the high road is under the Cerro Sun C/'isz‘0bul; the
reached. “streets are narrow and winding: it
Those going to Valencia from Elclre, contains 7500 souls. This is the place
without visiting Aliccmte, have the which Lord Galway was besieging
choice of two picturesque roads; they when he was inveigled by the French
may ride to Almansa, and there take into fighting the rash battle of AI
the dilgence, or, which is far better, mansa. The castle is still a grand object:
proceed by Xativa. this town was most ferociously sacked
by Montbrun, who, in Jan. 1812, had
been detached from Marmont by the
Roars 36.—ELc1n: TO XATIVA. express order of Buonapartc, Nov. ll,
Monforte . . . . 4 18]]: by this blunder Marmont was
Elda . . . . . 3 7 weakened, and beaten by the Duke,
Villena . . . . . . 3 10 while Montbrun,like Ney at Quatre
Fuentede la Higucra - . 3 13
Moxente . . - . . . 2 I5 Bras, was marched and counter
Xativa . . . . . . 4 19 marched for nothing: thus he arrived
too late to aid Suchet, and, failing in
There is also a new route to Eldn, intercepting Mahy after the rout of
by which Monfortc is avoided. 2 L. Valencia, attacked Alicante, only to be
to Aspe, 1 to Nnreldrr, 1 to Eld/1. signally repulsed by the Fnglish: then
Leaving Monforte the wild road he retired,venting his spite by burning
354 noun: 37.—I-ZLCHE TO mourn. Sect. IV’.
and plundering everything; a trade he del Union and el Leon de Oro. Alicante,
had learned under Massena in the a purely mercantile place, is much
flight from Santarem. He was sent addicted to smuggling, especially on
to his last account by a bullet at Mos thepwild coast near Bc'niJ0rnw,' hence
kowa, Sgpt. 7, 1812. the secret of its many patriotic pro
At the Fuente de la Higuera, which 1vrncia1nicnt0S. The moment liberty is
is an important strategic point, J our proclaimed, license is the rule; the
dan, Soult, and Suchet, after the rout public till is robbed, the authorities
of Salatnanca, met with their retreat dispossessed, and vast quantities of
ing forces, and held a council of how prohibited goods introduced: the
best to escape into France ; when Bal steamers, French and Spanish, which
lesteros, by refusing to obey the Duke’s touch here, are said to do business in
— a foreign generalissimds — orders, this line. It takes about 12 hours to
opened the way for them to Madrid pass in them between Valencia and
(Disp. Nov. 1, 1812), a feat blinked Alicante.
now-a-days by his countrymen. From Alicante is the residence of the
this place the road branches oif to the English consul, Captain Barrie, an
1.; it leads over the Puerto Aim/msa obliging, intelligent gentleman. Many
to the high road to Madrid (see Rte. English merchants live here, who im
6), while to the l. another runs to port salt fish, b.1cala0, and export wine.
Xativa by Moxente. Monfesa lies to almonds, coarse raisins—the lerias of
the l. ; this was the chief residence of Denia—and potash for the linens of
the commander of the order of this Ireland. The wines, rich, with a
name, founded in 1319 by Jaime I., rough taste combined with sweetness,
and into which the Templars, perse are used to doctor thin clarets for the
cuted by Philippe le Bel and Clement British market. The celebrated Aloque,
V., were received. The magnificent the best of them, ought to be made
castle was injured by an earthquake, from the Monastrel grape: however,
March 23, 1748. For the history of the Furcallada Blanquet and Parrell are
this order consult ‘ Montesa Ilustrada,’ used indiscriminately, and hence it is
Hippolyto dc Samper, 2 vols. folio, said arises the name Aloque——“A lo que
Valencia, 1669. saldra." The fertile Huerta is best seen
I
from the tower at Augucs. The olives,
especially the grosal, are fine; the
carob-trees numerous and productive.
Ronrn 37.——ELCHE T0 ALICANTE. The farms are very Moorish, fenced
with hedges of canes—arundo donax—
The plain, about halfway, is divided or tied up with the esparto : that of the
by a ridge, and the pass el Portichon; Marquis de Peiiacerrada is worth visit
Alicante — Lucentum — Hala, Arabice ing. The Huerta is irrigated from the
transparent -—- lies under its rock artificial Pantano de Tibi, 4 L.,to which
crowned castle, and is not seen till every one should go; and to the E.
closely approached. It is defended by by the AzudsofSanJuan and Jl/fuckiamfel.
a strong outwork, el Castillo de Fer This work, as the word sudd denotes,
nando, which was built in 1810 by the is purely Arabic; the compuertas, or
advice of the English, who paid for it, hatches, are ingenious. Here the suc
like the Cortadura of Cadiz; and like cession of crops never ceases. There
Cadiz, Alicante being also defended is no winter; one continual summer
by our fleet and men, never was taken reigns in this paradise of Ceres and
by the French. Gen. Montbrun came Pomona; but the immediate environs
up to the crumbling Moorish walls, re are arid and unproductive; and the
ceived a few English shots, and skulked swampy coast towards Cartagena breeds
back again. Now, Madoz (ii. 670), plagues of flies, fevers, and dysente
blinking this, claims the glory for the ries, which the immoderate use of the
Spaniards! Sandi/1 or water-melon, encourages.
The best inn is el Vapor ,- then Posada Alicante itself is a dry healthy spot,
Jlursia. ROUTE 38--—ALICAN TE TO XATIVA. 355
with a mild, equable, and warm cli mayor, has a gallery of some 1000
mate, where high winds and wintry pictures, all warranted originals: casi
colds are all but unknown. The sum tot/0s orgyinales, says M adoz (ii. 654):
mer heats are increased from the radia sed careat cmplor. Consult, for local his
tion caused by the white limestone tory, L1/ccnlum, 6 la Ciudad de Alicante,
rock which shelters the N. and N.E. of A. Valcarcel, 4to. Val. 1780.
the town; the mean annual tempera Alicantc, in March, 1844, was the
ture is 63'7°, and of the winters 521°. theatre of Don Pantaleou Boné’s abor
The many English merchants long tive insurrection ; this caricature of
settled here, have improved Alicante " Boney ” was shot in the back, with
as a residence for our invalids; the 23 oflicers, without even the form of a
place contains about 19,000 souls; trial, by Roncali, who soon rose in
has a circulo, or club, and a fine new consequence to be made Count of Alcoy
theatre, and a poor Musco : its trade is and war minister.
no longer what it was. This key of
Valencia rose in consequence of its
castle, which protected it from the
Algerine pirates: Philip II. added
works, employing the Italian engineer Ronn: 38.—A_LICAN'1'E T0 Xnrn.
Cristobal Autonelli. The rock is
friable; the black chasm was blown The high road to Madrid passes
asunder by the French in 1707, after through Monforte and Yecla: a coast
Almansa, when General Richards and road IS contemplated to Valencia by
his garrison were destroyed by the Denia. There are 2 routes to Alcoy,
mine. The castle is in poor order, and and thence to Xativa, 13 L.: that to
not worth seeing. The city bears for the r. passes Busot, with its excellent
its arms this castle on waves, with the mineral baths and wretched accom
4 bars of Catalonia. The under town modations, and 2 L. on reaches Xajon.-1 ;
is clean and well built; the port is a built like an amphitheatre on a shelv- '
roadstead rather than a. harbour; it ing hill, with a fine old ruined castle.
lies between the Capes La Huerta and It contains 4800 souls, and has 2 good
San Pablo. The view from the mole streets looking over its gardens. The
head is pretty; a fixed light is placed honey is delicious, and much used
there 95 feet high, which may be seen in making the celebrated mazupanes,
at a distance of 15 miles. The Cole marchpanes, turrones de All'Ca71i8(1ruea:),
giata is dedicated to San Nicolas. the almond-cakes or cheeses—the
Our “Old Nick,” the patron of Ali French nourgat. The Spanish women,
cante, is or was the portioner of poor as those in the East, are great consum
virgins, and a model of fasters; for, ers of dulccs or sweetmeats, to the de
according to Ribadeneyra (iii. 28), triment of their teeth, stomachs. and
when a baby this good child never, complexions; they are the solace of
during Lent, sucked before the even the fair whether imprisoned in convent
ing, and only once on Wednesdays or harem—sweets to the sweet: but
and Fridays. the goddess of beauty herself‘, Aphro
The first stone of his church was dite, had a liquorish tooth, and piled
laid in 1616 by Augustin Beruardino: honey and sweet wine on her rueor
the fine white material came from the (Ody. 'r. 68): cheese-cakes, therefore,
Sierra de Sun Julian: the noble dark are a classical cosmetic. The road to
portal was built in 1627. If this church the l., however, is to be preferred, and
were not blocked up by the Coro, it must be ridden : after 2 L. the moun
would be a superb specimen of the tain passes are entered, whence amid
Herrera style. The houses of the almond-groves to the Pantano de Tibi,
bishop, of the Calle de Altamira, and a magnificent dyke, made in 1594,
del A_r/untamienfo with its faqade and which dams up the torrents of the
1niru(1urcs, may be looked at. The gorge of the hills Mos del Bou 3/ Cresta.
Marquis del Angolfa, in the calle The traveller should walk on the top
356 ROUTE 38.——1-J. MILITARY AGENTS. Sect. IV.
of this vast wall or breakwater, 150 them on horseback and covered them
feet high and 66 feet thick: above ex with flattery, ribbons, and titular rank,
pands the lake-like reservoir, below which cost, and were worth, nothing.
bold masses of warm rock, with here These rambling missionaries, being
and there elegant stone pines. Hence, selected from almost subalterns, thus
amid rocks of reddish marbles to the found themselves by the sport of for
straggling Tibi, which han with a tune converted into generals and am
Moorish castle on an arid hill : to the bassadors, and the heads of these no
l. lies Gistalla, in its plea~ant Ho]/n. bodies became turned with new and
Here, July 21, 1812, while the Duke unused honours; they caught the na
was defeating the French at Sala tional infection, and their reports be
manca, did General de Lort, with 1500 came inflated with the local exaggera
men, utterly put to rout 10,000 Spa tion and common nonsense. They
niards under José O'Donnell, who, not were not altogether uninterested in
choosing to wait for the arrival of the keeping up a delusion which secured
Anglo-Sicilian army, formed the usual the continuance of their employment,
plan of surrounding the French, in and prevented their relapse into pris
order to catch them in a net; he, as tine insignificance; and their rhapso
usual, was caught by these Tartars, dies becaire the sources of information
for De Lort opened the ball by order on which Frere, the English ambassa
ing a few bold ilragoons to charge the dor, relied; and like him, our poor
bridge of Biar, where the Spanish cabinet turned an inattentive ear to the
artillery were strongly posted, and prophetic doubts, and stern, unpalatable
overwhelmed them instantly. Their truths of Moore and Wellington, who
whole army ran away; then, had not saw through the flimsy veil of docu
Colonel Roche, with a handful of Eng mentos and professions, and knew the
lish, manfully checked Mesclop at Ibi, real weakness and utter incapability of
Alicante itself must have been _lost. self-defence. The Duke placed small
Roche entered that city and was re reliance on these missions, and was
ceived with almost divine honours. anxious that they should be discon
Maldonado (iii. 277) ranks this saving tinued, or at least put under his orders
San Roque with Paulus Emilius and (Disp., May 3rd, 1812), as he well
the heroes of the classics, which indeed knew that they did more harin than
he was, when compared to the Blakes, good, by fostering foolish hopes and
Cuestas, and Nosotros, who, in the absurd expectations both in Spain and
words of the Duke, “were the most in England.
incapable of useful exertion of all the At Custalla, April 13th, 1813, ano
nations that I have known, the most ther battle took place between Suchet
vain, and at the same time the most and Sir John Murray, in which neither
ignorant of military atfairs, and above commander evinced a particle of ta
all, of military affairs in their own lent; both were inclined to retreat,
country ” tDisp., Aug. 18, I812). which fortunately Suchet did first, as
This Boaotian nook of Spain was the Soult did at Albuera, and thus Murray,
favoured resort of another sort of non like Beresford, remained master of the
descripts, the military agents sent to field. The French now claiin this
Spanish juntas by the British Govern “ affaire” as their victory, while the
ment. the Greens, Doyles, &c.,fortemque Spaniards call the triumph theirs, omit
Gyam, fortcmque Clormthum. While the ting all mention of the English (Paez,
names of Hill and Picton are unknown, ii. 87). Ibi is a red, warin-looking
the Murcian echoes heavily repeated hamlet, nested amid its olives, and over
those of Don Carlos and Don Felipe, looked by a castle. Alcoy lies 2 L. up
and others who here played the first the valley. This day's ride is full of
fiddle; being the distributors of English Italian scenery, stone pines, cypresses,
gold and iron, these ivorthies were wor and figs in autumn drying on reed
shipped by the recipient Spaniards, who stretchers, amid terraced groves of
soon discovering their weak side, set almond-trees. Alcoy—I’a:-aclor de los
llltrcia. aourn 38.—a1.c0Y--XATIVA. 357
D1'lz'gencias—is built in a funnel of the 3 L. to Xativa(Jat1'va, for the former
hills, on a tongue of land hemmed in name is now restored).
by 2 streams, with bridges and arched The Posada de las Dz'li_gencias is
viaducts. The N.E. side is Prout-like very good, so are the baths, and re
and picturesque, as the houses hang freshing after the long ride ; while the
over the terraced gardens and ravines. reader of Ariosto may fancy himself
This town, of some 25,000 souls, in the identical hotel where the fair
is busy, commercial, and filled with Fiametta, its Maritornes, played her
coarse woollen dyeing and paper ma prank on Giocondo and his companion
nufactories. Here is made the papel after they had quitted Valencia “ ad
dc kilo, the book Librito defumar, which albergare a Zattiva” (xxviii. 64).
forms the entire demi-duodecimo li Xativa, or San Felipe, was the Roman
brary of nine-tenths of Spaniards, andSetabis, celebrated for its castle and
with which they make their papel-itos,
linen. The fine handkerchiefs so
or economical little paper cigars. Thepraised by Pliny and Martial, and all
peladillus de Alcoy, or sugar-plums the fashion at Rome, were considered
made of almonds, are excellent, Alcoy,equal to those of Tyre, from whence
being in the centre of many roads, is the art was introduced. An ancient
well placed for trade and military inscription records this ,Phtnnician
strategies. Suchet held it as the key foundation: “ Saetabis H€TCl1l€¢i condita
of the district. The medicinal botany is diva manu.” Bochart (Can. i. 35)
very rich, and Moorish herbalists come derives the name from the Punic self
here even to this day. Alcoy is filled buts tela byssi, “ the web of fine flax.”
with new manufacturing buildings, It was also called Valeria Augusta by
a novelty seldom seen in inland Spanish the Romans, and Xativa by the Moors,
towns, where, as in the East, decay is from whom it was taken in 1224 by
the rule, and repairs the exception; Jaime I. He termed it one of the eyes
the lower classes have an air of sullen of Valencia, being the key to the S., as
unwashed operative misery; they wear Murviedro was to the N. Don Pedro,
also “shocking bad” round hats, which in 1347, made it a city, and gave it for
give them a pauper look; nor are the arms a castle with his band gules and
courtesies and salutations of high-bred the four bars of Catalonia: for the old
Spain so frequent—~so much for the coinage, see Florez ‘ M.’ ii. 555. Xa
civilization of the “ Mill and Beaver.” tiva, in the War of Succession, was
The grand day to be at Alcoy is April stormed by the French, under Asfeld,
23, the festival of St. George, the city with overwhelming forces. Defended
patron, who appeared here in 1257 by the people and “ only 600 English,”
battling against the Moors. Sham fights it afforded a type to Zaragoza, every
an costume are celebrated. On the 24th house was defended with “ unrivalled
the Alarde, or Review, takes place, bravery and firmness.” After 23 days’
when the discomfiture of the infidel is struggle the last holds surrendered;
completed~few sights in Spain are then Asfeld proceeded to butcher, “the
more national, medizeval. and Moorish. priests and trees were not sufficient
A longish L. more, skirting a pleasant for his victims.” Berwick next or
river, leads to Concentayna, Pop. about dered the city to be razed, “ in order
8500, another industrious picturesque to strike terror into the minds of the
town, walled, and with a grand square people,” and as the very name of Xa
Moorish tower called el Castillo. Notice tiva grated in his ears, it was changed
the weeping willows, and Capuchin for San Felipe. The English soldiers
convent. Some pictures by Juliano are continued to hold the castle until
much admired here, and the rich tomb starved out; they then surrendered .on
ofDiego Benavides. Beyond, theSierras honourable conditions, every one of
de Mariola and Muro rise above a plain which were “ shamefully violated by
studded with villages. Crossing the the victors” (Mahon, vi.).
ridge to the l. is Adsaneta, and thence Xativa now contains about 13,000
358 noura 38.-rm-1 sonoms. Sect. IV.
souls. The rivers Albarda and Gua ling like sails. The health-impairing
damar dispense fertility over the cultivation of rice is the only draw
H/zCI‘ld: the climate is delicious, the back. To the rt. extends the lake of
plain, a paradise of flower and fruit. Albufera and the blue Mediterranean:
The Colegiata, dedicated to San Feliu Valencia glitters in the middle distance,
(see Gerona), was built in 1414, and backed by the towers of Murviedro (Sa
since dorioised, has a fine dome and guntum).
an unfinished portal. At the altar of In this castle were confined the In
San Gil is blessed, every Sept. 1, the fa/ztcs dc Ia Gerda, the rightful heirs to
holy hinojo, or fennel, to be carried the crown, but dispossessed by their
round to all houses: see ‘ Viaje Li uncle, Sancho el Bravo, about 1284.
tcrario,’ i. 10, by Villanueva, Mad., The Duke of Medina Celi is their
1803; a useful volume as regards the lineal descendant. Here also did Fer
ecclesiastical antiquities of Xativa.nando el Catolico imprison the Duke
of Calabria, the rightful heir of the
The Reja do la C’0ro, in black and gold,
and the pink marble Baldaquino of the crown of Naples. That ill-fated prince
altar, deserve notice. — [N.B. The surrendered to Gonzalo de Cordova,
marbles of Xativa are rich and infinite; who swore on his honour, and on the
visit the quarries at Bzlircarro, in sacrament, that his liberty should be
the Serra Gros/.1, 3 L. N.E.]—Observe guaranteed. No sooner did the prisoner
Nuestra Sefiora do la Armada, a singular touch Spain than every pledge was
virgin of great antiquity; also Nuestra broken. This is one of the three deeds of
Seftora do Agosto, rising from a sarco which Gonzalo repented on his death
phagus supported by gilt lions. The bed: but Ferdinand was the real culprit;
Gothic facade of the Hospital is very for, in the implicit obedience of the old
rich and remarkable: in the Calle de Spanish knight, the order of the king
Moncada observe the palace of that was paramount to every consideration,
family, and the ajimez or window even in the case of friendship and love
divided by thin, lofty marble shafts, (see the beautiful play of ‘Sancho
which is quite Valencian. The Ala Ortiz’). This code of obedience has
meda, with its palm-trees, is shady and passed into a proverb—Mas pesa el Rey,
Oriental. The Ovalo with its fountain que la sangre: and even if blood were
is delicious; water indeed abounds, shed, the royal pardon absolved all the
being brought in by two aqueducts. A guilt—.Mata, que cl Rey pcrdona. The
new Plaza de Toros has been raised on king, as the fountain of all honour,
the ruins of the Carmen convent. In could salve overdishonour. The Lealdad
the suburbs ascend the zigzag cypress ofthe old hidalgo was like the Aral;/1:91 of
planted terraces of the Monte Coloario : the Greek drama, afatal necessity. Here
the viewis ravishing; the grand castle also was confined the infamous Caesar
is here seen to the best advantage. Borgia, also a prisoner of Gonzalo’s,
Next ascend to this castle, taking the and to whom also he pledged his
C/zmpo Santo in the way, and the honour: the breach of this pledge was
hermitage, San Feliu, said, under the his second act of which he repented
Moors, to have been a Mosarabic tem when too late. The Borjas were an
ple: observe the horseshoe arches, the ancient family of Xativa, and here in
ancient pillars and jaspars, inside and July, 1427, was born Rodrigo, after
outside, and the Roman inscription, wards Alexander VI. The Borgias
near the font, “ Fulvio L. F.” Near long monopolized the simple see of
the convent El Mont Sunt is a Moorish Valencia, and when Alonso de Borja
cistern. The castle is of avast size; became its bishop, in 1429, it was
the Torre do la (Iampana at the summit raised to be an archbisbopric by In
commands the panorama of the garden nocent Illl, and Rodrigo was named
of Valencia, which, with all its glories, by his uncle, Calixtus III., the first pri
lies below. The fertile plain, green as mate: when he too became pope, July
the sea, is whitened with quintas spark 9, 1492, he appointed (Aug. 31) his
J1urcia. nourn 39.—-XATIVA TO vannxcra. 359
natural son Caesar as his successor to Ronrn 39.——-XATIVA T0 Vannxcm.
this see, which after this renunciation Carjajente . . . . . 21}
he bestowed on his kinsman Juan de Alcira . . . . . . 1 3!
Borja, and again, when he died, ap Algameci . . - . . 1 44
pointed another relation, Pedro Luis élmuzafes . . . . . 2 6»l
atarroja . . . . . 2 31}
de Borja. Thus five of this famil Valencia . . . . . . 1 9}
this wealthy see in succession. There is a regular diligence. The
Spanish popes, Calixtus Ill. and Alex
road runs over a rich extent of rice
ander VI., scandalized even the Vati
grounds and gardens. All plains are
can by their avarice, nepotism, and
wearisome to travellers, and especially
crimes,-— when, from hedges and fences, nothing
“ Vendit Alexander claves, altaria, Christum, is to be seen. The sun is terrible. The
Emerat ille prius, vendere jure potest. railroad to Valencia commences at
De vitio in vitiurn, de flamma transit in ignem,
Roma sub Hispano deperit imperio." Alciru: Inn, Fonda Nueva. This railis
indeed no cosa de Espafta, and forms in
The Borja family, however, produced this land of contrasts not one of the
a paragon Jesuit saint, as if by way of least of changes, as we pass from the
compensation for its Suntita Alexander national ruts, mules, and caches, to the
VI. For the miracles of this San rapidity and bone rqoose of the Great
Francisco dc Borja, see his Vida by Western.
Pedro Ribadeneyra, 4°.,.Mad. 1592; and The Arrozales, or rice-grounds —
‘Hcroyca l"z'r_lrz,’ fol. Mad. 1726. He things of the Moor--commence here
was the 4th Duke of Gandia, and was also; they fill the air with fever and
converted from all mundane things by mosquitos--longe fut/c——those, however,
the frightful sight of the dead body who can brave these local plagues will
of Isabel, wife of Charles V., when find Alcira, a place girdled by rivers
he opened the coflin to verify the and intersected by canals, excellent to
contents. At Xativa also was born, study the system of irrigation handed
January-12, 1588, Josef de Ribera, who down from the Moors. (See p. 383.)
going young to study at Naples, was Now the peculiar character of Valencia.
therefore called by the Italians “the is not to be mistaken in the coloured -
little Spaniard,” lo Spagnoletto. He tilings or azulejos, the costume, the
became the leader of a gloomy although reed-fences, and the Algarrobas hanging
naturalist school, where more churches outside the Ventas; but the people are
and convents were built than palaces, oor in the bosom of plenty. At Cilla
and was a painter-monk, formed the Madrid arreczfc is entered; at the
by taste and country to portray Cruz del Campo the city jurisdiction
the church-militant knights of San commences: the infinite votive crosses
tiago, the blood-boltered martyr denote the frequency of the assassin
doms, resignation under torture, at stab, for which the Valencians are
tenuated ascetics, and ecstatic Faquirs notorious—that is if these frail memo
of the province of San Vicente Ferrer, rials be not scheduled away and denied.
the forerunner of the Inquisition. Ri In these days of steamers and Hand
bera delighted the Spaniards, who will books, when long unvisited Spain is
and must have blood and reality; there more exposed to the “barbarian eye,”
is no mistake in his executioner hand these symbols are discontinued, as in
ling, fitted ’tis true rather to disgust ferring a lack of morality and civiliza
than encourager les autres martyrs. tion in the first people of the earth.
( seo ) Sect. v.

SECTION V.

VALENCIA.

CONTENTS.

The Kingdom; Character of Country and Agriculture; Character and Cos


tume of the People; History; and Works to consult.

Page I P"-8*
‘ _.__ 66 ROU‘I‘E4l-—VALE.\‘CIA T0 MUR
VALENC“ ' 3 vianao....................383
Chelva; Portacmli; Segorbe; Mur
viedro.
ROUTE 40.—ExctmsION FROM VA- 383
.....38l ROUTE 42-—VALEl~‘¢IA T0 'l‘ARKA
Th-Albuf De_ GONA............-.........386
e em’- nm . Peniscola; Morella; the Ebro.

TOURS IN VALENCIA.
The S. portions will be found described in the last pages of Sect. IV. The towns are few;
Elche, Xativa, and the Albufera, are the leading features. The Summers are intensely hot; the
Springs and Autumns are the best periods for travelling. Valencia is a charming Winter
residence.
lyi

THIS Reina, now province, although one of the smallest provinces in Spain,
yields in fertility and delight to none of the others. 'l'he Moors placed their
Paradise at this spot, over which they imagined Heaven to be suspended,
and that a portion of it had fallen down on earth, “ ctelum hic cecidisse
putes," while the Jews forgot in it, even their Sion. This province
consists of 838 square leagues, of 20 to the degree, and of these only 240
are level land, being chiefly the maritime strip, which extends in length about
64 m. It is defended from the cold central table-lands by a girdle of moun
tains, which act not only as a barrier against the winds, but are magazines of
timber and fuel, and reservoirs of snow (an article of absolute necessity), and
sources of rivers. Its width varies from 6 to 20 L., being narrowest near
Orihuela and widest in the centre. The mountains abound with marbles and
minerals. The botanist and geologist should make excursions to the Sierra
of Espadan when near Castellon dc la Plana.
To invalids and consumptive patients the climate of Valencia is decidedl
superior to that of Italy; there is a most delicate softness in the air, which
is so dry withal, that salt undergoes_no change. Rain is very scarce; frosts
are almost unknown, whilst the sea-breeze tempers the summer heats, and the
fresh mountains offer verdurons retreats. This clean, lively capital——a city of
the sea and sun, with a climate soft and mild, and skies free from fogs and rain
—ofi'ers an excellent winter residence to those suffering under chronic bron
chitis, atonic dyspepsia, gouty and calculous diseases. The mean annual tem
perature is 65-5° ; that of winter 49- 7°. It has the advantage also—of possess
l'alencia. cnanncrsr. or TI-IE IRRIGATIOY. 361
ing, what is rare in Spain, an excellent physician, Dr. Battles,- of whom Dr.
Francis writes most favourably. To botanists the Flora of Valencia is that of a
natural hothouse, and unrivalled in colour and perfume. The Huerta, most
truly the Garden, is irrigated by the Turia, or Guadalaviar, Arabicc Wadda-I
abyzid/1, the white river. This great vena poma is so much drained or bled,
sangr-ado, for the use of the huerta and the city, that when it reaches the
capital in its natural bed it is almost dry. The Moors have bequeathed to
the Valencians their hydraulic science by which they exercised a magic
control over water, wielding it at their bidding: they could do all, but call
down the gentle rains from heaven, that best of all irrigations, agua del cielo, el
major riego. The network of artificial canals is admirable. The canal del Rey on
the Jucar, near Dutilla, and the 'w hole water-system about Alcira and Aljamesf,
deserve the closest examination of our engineers and agriculturists. The still
existing technical terms prove whence the theory and practice were derived.
The artist will sketch the picturesque noria, Arabice anaoura, the Cairo
sdclziyeh, or large water-wheel, which, armed with jars, descends into the well,
and as it rises discharges the contents into a reservoir.
The Huerta of Valencia is irrigated by 8 canals, of which the Moncada is the
chief main-trunk artery or principal canal, Arabice “ canna nmcunfirll," and sup
plies all the smaller veins, acequius, Arabice “ ciquia,” of the circulation: this is
managed by a reticulated network of minute ramifications, and dams, azudas,
Arabice sudd. The idea is simple, but the execution is most diflicult; and
often the greatest triumph of the hydraulist is where his works are least
apparent, for however level these plains in appearance, they are by no means
so in reality. The chief object was to secure a fair distribution, so that none
should be left dry, none overfiooded. When the engineer ceases, the legislator
begins, for since water here, as in the East, is the life-blood of the soil, and
equivalent to fertility and wealth, the apportionment has always been a source
of solicitude and contention. Rivality has indeed been derived from Rivas,
the bickerings about water-brooks; and so the l'Vells in ‘Genesis’ (xxvi.
20, 21) were named Esek, contention, and Sitnah, hatred; accordingly here,
where the knife is always ready, precautions are taken to keep the peace.
The regulating tribunal, de los acequieros, or del riego de las at/uas, instituted by
Alhaken Almonstansir Billar, still exists in its primitive and Oriental form
and force; 7 judges, chosen by each other, out of the yeomen and irrigators,
the labr-adores y acequieros of the Huc2'ta, sit at 12 o’clock every Thursday, in
the open air, on benches at La puerta de los Apostoles, at “ the gate” of the
cathedral, and decide all complaints respecting irrigation in a summary way.
In this court of common sense, no pen, ink, and paper, special plead
ings, or pettifogging attorneys are permitted. The patriarchal judges under
stand the subject practically, and decide without appeal; the discussion is
carried on we voce in public and in the “ Lemosin,” or the dialect of the
people: consult for details the Tratado dc la Disfribzzcion del Rio Turia, &c., F.
X. de Borrull, fol., Valencia, 1831, and L’Irriqaii0n dans le Royaume dc Valence.
Jaubert de Passa. Thus irrigated, the rich alluvial plains, which bask in the
never-failing all-vivifying sun, know no agricultural repose; man is never
weary of sowing, nor the sun of calling into life. The produce is almost
incredible under this combined influence of heat and moisture, and the
Valencian, with all his faults, is hard-working and industrious, and, like his
soil and climate, full of vitality. Thus, in one year, four, nay five, crops are
raised in succession. Rice, arroz, Arabice arooz (oryza), is the great cereal
staple, and the pest of the province. This source of wealth, sustenance, and
life, is also one of disease and death. The rice-stalks shoot up from tufts into
most graceful ears : as -heat and water are absolutely necessary for this grain,
many portions of Valencia are admirably calculated by nature for this culture,
since the rivers, which in some places are sucked up, reappear in marshy
Spain. —I. R
ri

362 VALl1NCIA—AGRICULTURE. Sect. V.


swamps, or marjdles, and in lakes, of which the Albufcra, Arabice “ the Lake,"
is the most remarkable. In these arrozales, or rice-grounds, the sallow amphi
bious cultivator wrestles with fever amid an Egyptian plague of mosquitos,
for man appears to have been created here chiefly for their subsistence. The
mortality in these swamps is frightful, and few labourers reach the age of 60.
The culture of rice was introduced by the Moors; the grain enters largely
into the national cuisine of the Valencians, their pilafs and pollos con arruz.
The increase of these rice-grounds, from their great consumption of water, and
injurious effects on public health, has long been opposed by the legislature.
The province produces wine, oil, barrilla, esparto,hemp, flax, cochineal,a.nd
fruits, especially figs, almonds, dates, oranges, and grapes: of these last the
“ Valentina” are made: they are a coarse raisin, exported from Denia, and
called there Lejias, from the lye in which they are dipped: The honey is also
delicious; from this and almonds is made the celebrated sweetmeat cl turron ;
silk is another staple, and the Ilucrm is covered with the white mulberry,
“ food for worms." The animal spins its cocoon and is then destroyed in
boiling water: the process is nasty, but as the peasants, seated under their
vines and figs, wind out the golden tissue, the grouping is picturesque. The
Raso and black silk, for Jltmtillas and Sagas, is equal to anything made in
Europe. The profusion of mulberries has rendered the purple colour of the
fruit, the zmrtulo, a favourite one with the painters of Valencia, and the makers
of Azulejos and stained glass, just as the rich brown olla colour of Seville was
with Murillo in Andalucia, or the chorizo tint with Morales in Estremadura.
Valencia is deficient in animal and cereal productions; corn and cattle are
brought from the Castiles and Aragon; both men and beasts eat the garrofas
or sweet pod of the Gurrofal, Alqtu-robo (Arabice el ghamob); this is the camb
tree (Ceratonia siliquestris). These pods and husks, which ripen early in
August, were the food of the prodigal son, and are everywhere hung up like
kidney-beans outside the ventas, as signs of the neat accommodation within.
The over-irrigation diminishes the flavour of vegetables, which lose in quality
what they gain in quantity: “ Irriguo nihil est elutius agro.” Hence the
proverb allusive to the aqueous unsubstantial character of Valencian men,
women, and things: “ La mrne es _r/erbw, la yer-ba aqua, el /zombre mvger, la mwger
nada.” This is amere play upon words, for these ethereal women, whose
minds and bodies are supposed to evaporate, are much more than nothin , and
the cuisine is excellent. Those who eat the national “ Pollo con arr-oz ’ will
never talk about the mere “idea of a dinner,” facetious tourists to the con
trary notwithstanding: as for the women,they will speak for themselves. The
lower classes in the line/-ta, who toil under an African sun, live on water
melons, cucumbers, and gazpacho, without which their “souls would be dried
away.” (Numb. xi. 6).
The sea-coast, like that of the W. of the Peninsula, is the terror of mariners ;
yet it is not the iron-bound barrier which fronts the fierce Atlantic, but a low
sandy line, fringing the quiet Mediterranean; still it is open and portless. The
sea has a disposition to recede, and the coasts to get shallower from the detritus
brought down by the river’s freshes. The whole line is studded with Torres y
Atala]/as, raised as watch-towers against the African pirates. The popula
tion of this province is on the increase, although the Castilian and Frenchman
have done everything to reduce it to the solitude ofAndalucia and Estremadura.
About the year 1610 more than 200,000 industrious Moorish agriculturists
were expelled by the bigot Philip III. In the next century Valencia, having
espoused the Austrian side in the war of succession, was all but exterminated
by the French in 1718, and her liberties taken away; but Philip V., with all
his enm_ity, could not unfertilize the soil. The population recovered like the
vegetatlon, and however in our times trampled down by the iron heel of Suchet's
military occupation, has kept pace with subsistence, and now the province
Valencia. CHARACTER AND COSTUME or THE PEOPLE. 363
contains more than a million inhabitants. Competition renders the peasant poor
amid plenty; but he is gay and cheerful, his mind and costume are coloured
by the bright and exciting sun, which gilds poverty and dis-arms misery of its
sting. The fine climate is indeed health and wealth to the poor; it econo
mises fire, clothes, and lodgings, three out of the four great wants of
humanity. Since the death of Ferdinand Vll. numbers have gone to settle
in congenial Algeria; but in compensation, while pauper Spaniards emigrate
to Africa, French fortune-hunters flock to Spain.
The upper classes are among the most polished of Spain, and the Valencian,
if unwarlike, has always distinguished himself in art and literature. Under
the Moors this city was the repository of theological science; under the
Spaniards it boasts of San Vicente, whose miracles have employed the
pens and pencils of nativetalent. It is the home of the learned divine Juan
Luis Yives, the Bacon of Spaniards, who forget that their countryman learnt
at Oxford, not at Salamanca. On these local worthies, consult ‘Jiscritores du
Valencia,’ Vicente Ximeno, 2 vols. fol., Val., 1747-49. Valencia also is
proud of her poet Christobal Virues, and of Guillen de Castro, the dramatist;
while her Juanes, Ribalta, Ribera, Espinosa, Orrente, and March, form
aschool of painters second only to that of Seville. In the last century
Valencia took the lead in critical learning, and produced Mayans, Sempere,
Masdeu, Cavanilles; while her printers Salva, Cabrerizo, Mallen, and
Montfort, were worthy of such authors. Valencia was the first place in
Spain where printing was introduced, viz., in 1474, and in latter days the
volumes from the presses of Montfort vied with those of Baskerville and
Bulmer, Bodoni and Didot.
'l‘he lower classes are fond of pleasure; their national song is called la
Fiera ,' and ahcir dance La Rondullu, or roundabout. They execute this Well
to the tamboril and dulzayna, a sort of Moorish clarionct requiring strong
lungs and ears. The dialect commonly used, the Lemosin, is less harsh than the
Catalan, which some have attributed to the admixture of a French Aurergnut
idiom introduced by the number of volunteers of that nation who assisted
Don Jaime in the conquest of Valencia; for this dialect consult ‘ Diccirmurio
Valenciuno y Castellano,’ Carlos Ros, 8vo., Val. 1764; or the more modern
‘Vocabulario Valenciano Custellrmo,’ J usto Pastor Fuster, Val. 1821. Ros also
published a collection of local proverbs, ‘ Tratat de Adages,’ 8vo., Val. 1788.
In darker shades of character the Valencians resemble both their Celtiberian
and Carthaginian
dictive, ancestors;
sullen andi theyfickle
mistrustful, are superstitious, cunning,
and treacherous. perfidious,
Theirs is a sortvinof
ti;/re sin;/e character; one of cruelty allied with frivolity ; so blithe, so smooth, so
gay, yet empty of all good : nor can even their pleasantry be trusted, for, like the
Devil’s good humour, it depends on their being pleased; at the least rub, they
pass, like the laughing hyena, into a snarl and bite : nowhere is assassination
more common ; they smile, and murder while they smile. In crime statistics
those against the person prevail. The Cruz del Campo was once indeed a field of
crosses, records of the coward stab, and the province has been called Un paraiso
imbitado por dmwnios, a paradise peopled by devils. The infamous Caesar Borgia
was a true Valencian, as were his chosen Sicarios and bravos; their leader,
Michalot de Prades, who, after cutting throats with his broca, became a monk
at Monserrat, has bequeathed his name to the armed companies of Migueletes.
The narrow streets of Valencia seem contrived for murder and intrigue,
which once they were; consequently, in 1777, a night-watch was introduced
by Joaquin Fos, copied _from ours, and the first established in Spain; the
guardians were called Serenos, “clears,” from their announcing the usual fine
nights, just as our Charleys ought to have been termed “ cloudies.” The
Valencians are great drivers of mules and horses, and many migrate to
Madrid, where the men are excellcnt Caleseros, and the women attractive
B 2
.-,-64 VALENCIA——SUPERSTlTION. Sect. V.
vendors of delicious orgeat and iced drinks. Like the Orientals, although
wanting in many essentials and necessaries, they are rich in what we British
have not; they may not be blessed with carpets, trial by jury, beef, beer,
breeches,‘ Punch,’ and the ‘ Examiner,’ but they have wine, grapes, and melons,
guitars and love-making ad libitum, and melodrames in churches gratis.
The physiognomy of the Valencians is African. The burning sun not only
tans their complexions, but excites their nervous system ; hence they are highly
irritable, imaginative, superstitious, and ultra mariolatrous; their great joys
and relaxations are religious shows, pasos, pageants, processions, Comparsas y
Rocas, and acted miracles and church spectacles. The dramatized legends
and the “Miracles de San Vicente Ferrer," the tutelar of the city, rank first
in these “Fiestas de calle,” or street festivals; many accounts are printed of
the centenary ones, called Sijqlos ; in these little children play a great part,
dressed like angels, and really looking like those creatures of which Heaven is
composed, although some grow up to be devils incarnate. The Dia de Corpus,
or procession of Christ present in the Sacrament, is the sight of Spain, and accord
ingly has, from time immemorial, been brought out to amuse princes, whenever
they chanced to be in Valencia‘; and in our time Ferdinand VIl., the beloved,
having expressed a “pious curiosity,” the incarnate Deity, locally present, as they
believe, was paraded out to amuse such a mortal! Since the suppression of
convents, the expense of these exhibitions is defrayed by the Oofradius _1/ Her
mandades, of which there are no less than 66! One of the most powerful was
in honour of the corr-ea, or leather strap which the Virgin gave to St. Augus
tine, thereby supplanting the cistus of Venus.
The Valencian San Vicente de Ferrer, who led the way in preaching the
crusade against Jew and Moor, renewed the cruel bigotry and persecution for
which this Eastern side of Spain was notorious in the age of Diocletian ; his
disciples took as an example the principles recorded in the inscription copied
at Tera by Masdeu (H. C. v. lnscrip, 353), when a. temple was raised to the
Mot/ier of the Gods, on account of the suppression of “ Christian superstitions ;”
or that found in Spain and quoted by Muratori (i. 99), in which Nero is praised
for having cleared the country of robbers and those who preached this “ novam
snperstitionem.” Their ancestors, bigoted then as now to female worship,
spurned the new Christian religion, just as the votaries of La Virgen de los Des
amparados do the new Protestant doctrine, which refuses the transfer of adora
tion and salvation from the Son to the Mother, and just repeated the argument K
of the Spanish pagan in Prudentius (Per. v. 24) against new gods and rituals.
The Valencians, always adhering to their “ old" gods, which had as it
were a legal settlement, were most intolerant of any competing deity, never
admitting into their Pantheon any rival. Having taken the name of Roma for
their city, they imitated its exclusiveness (Cic. de Leg. ii. 8) ; for the Romans
attributed pla e to the worship of foreign gods (Livy, iv. 30), and burnt the
mass books o strange religions (Livy, xxxix. 16), just as Xirnenez did the
Koran: in vain in 1715 the government wished to introduce at Valencia the
Madrid saints’ days and calendar, in order to preserve some degree of unity
and uniformity in the soi-disant one and the same faith and practice : what was
the reply?—“n0 parecia cosa con1:em'ente 1'nt‘roduc1'r aqui i"anlos incognitos y
ercluir ti los naturales y alglmas fcsiz'vi<ladcs ab antique celebrndas " (Villa
nueva, ii._l60). They refused to exchange their native saints and household
gods for strange ones. Their patron was San Vicente, not San Isidro: what's
Hecuba to them? Nor are such religions feelings, deep-fanged like trees
rooted on the tomb of Geryon, to be plucked up without drawing blood.
Tutelars in fact are, and even religion is, local in Spain, the worship of the
Virgin_alone excepted; she is the great Diana of Valencia, and the first book
ever printed in Spain was _here and in her honour :—‘ Obres o Trobes-—de lohor de
la Sacratzsszma Verge Maria,’ 4to., 1474 ; and Villanueva (i. 108) prints in 1803
Valencia. cosrnmn-wonxs T0 coxsunr. 365
a Te Deum Maria], in which she is thus acknowledged to be their goddess.
“Te Matrem Dei laudumns, te Dominam confitemur, te dominationes honorant
Angel0rum~D0minum ; ’[‘u es Regina cmlorum, tu es Domina Angelorum—
tu es nostra interventri.c—Fiat misericordia Mu, Domina, super nos, ut tum
mansuetudini grati simus ; in te, Dominw, spcrantes, perfruamnr tuis aspectibus
in aeternnm.” Again the Valencian University was the first in 1530 to swear to
defend her immaculate conception.
The male costume of Valencia is antique and Asiatic: the men wear the
hempen sandal or alpargatn, called also espa/-dim'cs, and their legs are either
naked or covered with stockings without feet; these Greek leggings, greaves,
the media Valencicma, are a common metaphor for a Spanish student’s purse.
The white linen drawers are very classical, and are called culces de traceta,
brag/rs, or sarahuells, the original Arabic name. Those curious in the learn
ing of breaches may compare them with the Celto-Gallo brucca=, the Greek
Ku=ran'n;, the Romaic foustanelli, the Highland kilt breeks, and the bragon bras
of Brittany. These are the small-clothes which Augustus, when at Tarragona,
put on in order to please the natives, as George IV. did the kilt at Edinburgh,
thereby displeasing the Lowlanders. Augustus, however, set the fashion, and
they became so wide that snmptuary laws were passed to curtail these broad
bottomed extravagancies. The Maragatos in the Vierzo still continue to
offend, “ more honoured in the breach than the observance.” Their waists
are girdled b a gay silken sash, faja; the upper man is clothed with a
velvet or gau y jacket, jaleco, with open shirt-sleeves; over the shoulder is
cast the manta, the many-coloured plaid, which here does the duty of the Cas
tilian capa ; on the head, and long, lanky, red Indian-like hair, is bound a silk
handkerchief, which looks in the distance like a turban. These bragas, and
the manta of every stripe and hue, are exactly what Tacitus has described
(H. ii. 20)— Versicolore sagulo braccas, tegmen barbarum. It is the “ coat
of many colours” mentioned in the Old Testament (Gen. xxxvii. 3).
The Valencian women, especially the middle and better classes in the capital,
are by no means so dark complexioned as their mates; singularly wcll formed,
they are among the prettiest and most fascinating in all Spain; they sit at
work in the open streets, and as they wear nothing on their heads but their
hair, “ their glory,” they have to us a dressy look. Their ornaments are most
classical; the roll of hair, el mmlo, is pierced with a silver-gilt pin, with knobs,
the acus crinatoria of Martial (ii. 66 ; ac-us crinalis Apul. Met., viii. 543) ; it is
called aulla dc rodete; the silver-gilt comb is the pinteta, and one of a singular
triangular shape is called la piezu, la llase; this is frequently engraved with
the greatlocal patroness, Nuestra Seiiora de los Dcsamparados; the cross is called
la creu. As the Valencians are no less ignorant than superstitious, talismans
and small penates, or idols of saints in silver, are sold in great quantities, as
also little hands and horns, the old phallic antidote to the evil eye, el mal do ujo,
which is dreaded here, as much as among the Pagans, Moors, and Neapolitans.
The collector of topography and local history will find an ample field in the
many tomes which treat of Valencia and its province and worlhies; happy,
thrice happy he who sees on one goodly shelf clean and perfect copies of the
‘ Coronica’ of Pero Anton Beuther, 2 vols. fol., Val. 1546-51 ; 2nd part, 1551
63; or the edition 1 vol. fol., Val. 1604-5', very rare to complete; the volume
with the linajes displeased the nobility, who bought it up and burnt it; the
‘ Chro-nyca’ of Martin de Vicyana, black letter, 2 vols. fol., Val. 1564; ‘ Amiles
del Reyna de Valencia,’ Francisco Diago, fol., Val. 1613 ; the ‘ Historic,’ in two
parts, by Pero Anton Beuther, 1 vol. fol., Val. 1538, or 2nd edit. 1551; 3rd
1604; the ‘ Historic,’ by Gaspar Escolano, 2 vols. fol., Val. 1610-11 ; ‘Sagrario
de Valencia,’ Alonso del Castillo Solorcano, 1 vol. duo., Val. 1635; ‘Lit/iologia,’
Joseph Vicente del Olmo, 4to., Val. 1653 ; ‘ Resumen Historial dc Valencia,‘
Pasqual Esclapes de Guillo, 4to., Val. 1738. And for the worthies, ‘ Escritoros
366 VALENCIA . Sect. V.
del Reyna de Valencia,’ Vicente Ximeno, 2 vols. fol., Val. 1747-49; ‘ Biblioteca
Valenciana,’ Justo Pastor Fuster, Val. l827,—-both of which are excellent
works; ‘Elogio ftmebre de los Valencianos,’ Pujalte, 8vo., Val. 1813; ‘Viaje
Literario,’ Joaquin Lorenzo Villanueva, vols 1 and 2, 8vo., Mad. 1803. The
Manual by José Garulo, 1841, is a useful guide. For Natural History, the
excellent ‘ Observa0io'nes,' Antonio Josef Cavanilles, 2 vols. fol.. Mad. 1795-97,
with a very accurate map of the province. Consult also Ponz, vol. iv., and
‘Espafla Sa_r]ruda,' viii. ‘ Historia de Valencia,’ Vicente Boix, 3 vols. 4to.,
I845. '
Mem.—Collectors of Spanish books will find some excellent basil skins for
their bindings at Valencia, called pellejos chispeados, or jaspeadvs: the colours
are gay, the patterns fantastic. This leather is or was chiefly used in lining
Tartanfls, now alas! on the way to be superseded by linings E1 la Long Acre.
ii

VALENCIA. Inns, Fonda del Cit], by Pompey, and when rebuilt became
Plaza de Arzobispo, near the cathedral : a “Colonia,” and thecapital of the
small but very comfortable, with a Edetani. Taken from the Goths by
good table d’hf>te at 2% and 5. French the Moors under ’Abdu-l-’aziz, son of
and English spoken and newspapers Musa Ibn Nosseyr, in 7l2, it was an
taken in. Posada dz las Dili_1/encius, nexed to the kingdom of Cordova;
Plaza de Villaraza; Fonda Francesa, when the Ummeyah dynasty fell to
kept by Monsieur Laurent, with table pieces, it threw off its allegiance in
d'b6te at 5 for 10 reals; Hotel de 1056. The Christians, as usual, took
1|/[iulrid ,' Fonda dc Europa, Plaza dc lu
advantage of these intestine dissensions
Constitucion (where Francois I. was between rival rulers, and Alonso VI.
lodged). The Cusas de Pupilos are placed Yahya on the throne, and sur
indifferent; the best is in the Calle rounded him with Spanish troops. This
de Caballeros. The best booksellers created an insurrection: a rebel chief,
are Jllallert, Oabrerizo, Calle San Vi one Ibn Jehaf, murdered Yahya, and a
cente. Café, del Sol, Calle de Zara pretext was afforded for Spanish inter
goza. Delicious Orchdtas are sold en ference, and the celebrated guerrillero,
el Mercado and el Palau. The baths the Cid, aided by the local knowledge
are good, especially those of Espinosa, and influence of Alvar Fanez, took
and in the “Hospital.” Valencia is Valencia, which capitulated after a
well supplied with shops; the Plateria siege of 20 months, A.D. 1094-5. The
should be visited, as the silver flowers first act of the Cid, whose perfidy and
made for the hair are peculiar, and cruelty is the theme of the Arabian
still more so are the ornaments a la annalists, was to burn Ibn Jehaf alive
antique, made for the peasants. on the great plaza (see Conde, Xerif
The name of Valencia, this town Aledris, 165, and more fully ‘Moh.
and province of unsubstantial disre D.’ ii. Ap. xxxix.). Here he ruled
pnte, is fondly derived from, or con despotically until his death in 1099,
sidered equivalent to ROMA, because when the Moor, Oct. 25, 1101, dispos
Pom in Greek signifies power, as Va sessel his widow Ximena, but Valencia
lentia does in Latin. Thus, because was retaken Sept. 28, 1228 (others say
for a wonder Valencia was not taken Sept. 29, l239),by Jaime I. of Aragon,
in 1843 by the Esparterists, owing and was brought into the Castilian
snlcl_// to the treachery of Zabala, the crown by Ferdinand‘s marriage with
wishy-washy citizens, valientes con los Isabella, being inherited by their grand
dientes, and hares not lions, petitioned son Charles W. The first blow to its
to be called “ magnanimous.” Valentin prosperity was dealt by the bigoted
was founded by J unius Brutus for the and barbarous expulsion of the indus
veterans who had warred under Vi trious Moriscoes, under Philip III.
riatus (Livy,ep. lv.l. It was destroyed The second was given by Philip V.
l"alenc1'a. VALENCIA DEL CID. 367
Valencia, as it had flourished under the Spaniards before Valencia, Suchct eva
Austrian dynasties, opposed the French cuated the impoverished city July 5,
claim, and was robbed-of its liberties 1813, and Francisco Javier Elio en
and gold by Philip V. The remem tered. Here he welcomed Ferdinand
brance of past ill usage, and the dread VII., April 16, 1814; who, hearing of
of future, induced the populace to rise Buonaparte’s downfall, determined to
instantly on the news of Murat‘s but upset the Cortes, and found a tool in
cheries of the Dos de Mayo, 1808. Then this servil Elio, who during the struggle
the tree of patriotism and independ had been a time-server, and so dis
ence, watered everywhere else with graced at Biur and Castalla as to be
blood, was inundated in this land of suspected, says Napier (xxi. 1), of a
irrigation: 363 French residents were treacherous understanding with the
massacred, June 5, 1808, in the Plaza French. This “Monk” of the re
de Zbros, butchered to make a Valencian storation was rewarded by being
holiday; the mob, nothing loth, were made Captain-General of Valencia,
goaded on by the canon Balthazar where he signalized himself by per
Calvo; the few French who escaped secuting his former friends, by whom
were saved by an Englishman, Mr. he was murdered in 1822, when the
Tupper, and this while Buonaparte Constitucion was in power. Cosas de
and his Moniteur were ascribing every Espaiia. In 1838 the valiant city
horror in Spain to la per-fide Albion. trembled at the mere approach of
Moncey advanced in June with 8000 Cabrera, 1840; Christina abdicated
men, and had he not loitered the 25th here, and Espartero became Regent;
at the Vcnta de Bufiol, Valencia must and here, in 1843, Narvaez was wel
have fallen, as in the valiant town all comed to upset him, and be rewarded
was cowardice and confusion: the with the title of Valencia.
generals and nobles wanted both hearts Valencia del Cid is the capital of its
and heads; but while they fled, their province, the see of an archbishop,
vassals combated. A bold monk named the residence of a captain-general, for
Rico animated the populace, and Mon merly a viceroy, and has an audiencia
cey was beaten back, retiring with or supreme court of justice, a univer
great loss on Almansa, and there, had sity, theatre, Plaza de Toros, musco,
the Conde de Oervellon shown either and two public libraries, and the usual
courage or brains, not one of the enemy prisons, hospitals, barracks, &c. It
could have escaped. Subsequently is a cheap well-supplied city, for here
Blake, after courting defeat near Mur fish, flesh, fruit, and green herbs
viedro, fell back on the city, and, on abound. The society is easy, and
Suehet's advance, concluded his in there is a good Casino or club to which
glorious career by surrendering with strangers are easily introduced; the
20,000 men and 390 guns; “ misfor climate delicious, the winter-shoot
tunes to be attributed," said the terse ing first-rate; the pop., including
Duke (Disp., Jan. 20, 1812), “ to the suburbs, reaches 70,000. It has a
Blake’s ignorance of his profession‘ and cathedral and 14 parish churches; the
Mahy’s cowardice and treachery.” countless convents, first plundered in
Suchet pledged himself that no man the war, are now suppressed. The
should be molested, but no sooner was city in shape is almost circular; the
he master of the city than he put to Turia flows along the N. base: the
death all‘who had most distinguished sandy bed of this exhausted river is
themselves in the national cause, and crossed by 5 wide bridges’ which
continued his executions through all serve as viaducts in time of-inunda
the province, from which, in 38 tions. The tapia, hattlemented walls,
months, he extorted 37 millions of built in 1356 by Pedro IV., are very
reals, while his bombs and pickaxes perfect and picturesque. Walk round
created irreparable loss to literature them. There are 8 gates ; some retain
and the fine arts. When Wellington, their towers and machicolations; that
at Vitoriu, repaired the failures of the of El Serrunos, begun in 1349, and of
368 VALENCIA—-EL MICALET. Sect. V.
El Cuarte, 1444, are used as prisons The first thing which the Cid did
(Newgates). Outside the latter is the on capturing Valencia was to take his
Plaza dc Toros, and the highly inter wife and daughters up to a height, and
esting Botanical Garden; indeed this show them all its glories. Ascend,
is a city of flowers; and here the therefore, the cathedral tower, which
French under Moncey were repulsed is open from 8 to 12 .\.m., and from 2
by Rico and Tupper. The city inside to 5 P.M.; it is called El Micalet, or
is very Moorish and closely packed, del Miguelete, because its bells were
with few gardens within the walls; first hung on St. Michacl’s Feast.
the streets in general are narrow and This isolated octangular Gothic belfry
tortuous, and the houses lofty and is built with a brownish stone, 162 ft.
gloomy-looking, but admirably calcu high, and disfigured by a modern top.
lated to keep out the enemy, /L6(lt. It was raised in 1381-1418 by Juan
Those who land only for a few Franck (see the inscription), and was
hours from, the steamer, may obtain a intended to have been 350 ft. high;
rapid general notion of the best parts the panorama is very striking, nay, to
of Valencia, by taking the rail from the northern children of the mist and
the Grao or by jumping into atarta1m— fog, the bright sky itself is wonder
make your bargain as to fare—and enough, giving a glimpse of the glory of
drivinv round the following course: heaven, an atmosphere of golden light
Start from the great door of the ca which Murillo alone could paint when
thedral, passing down the Calle dc wafting his Blessed Virgin into Para.
Zaragoza into the Calle San Martin dise. The air is also so clear and dry
and an Vicente, coming back by the that distant objects appear as if quite
Calle San Fernando, to the Mercado; close. By taking up the map of the
thence by the Calle del Cuarte and town by Francisco Ferrer, the disposi
Caballeros, turning to the 1. by the tion will be soon understood. The
Calle de Serranos, and going out at the streets are so narrow that the openings
gate to the banks of theTuria; thence to scarcely appear amid the irregular,
the Puerta del Real, crossing over and close-packed roofs, of which many are
following the Alameda, and recrossing flat, with cane cages for pigeons, of
at the Puerta del Mar to the Glorieta, which the Valencians are great fan
and then back again by the pretty ciers and shooters. The spires rise
planted road to the Grao. The streets thickly amid blue and white-tiled
are in some cases left unpaved, in domes; to the N. are the hills of Mur
order thatlthe scrapings may furnish viedro, Saguntum; the Huerta is
manure for the Huerta: all this is ma studded with Alquerias, farm-houses
naged by El tribunal del rcpeso, whose and cottages, thatched like tents, and
president is the exact Roman Edilis glittering like pearls set in emeralds.
and Moorish Almotacen. N.B. For In the Micalet is the great bell, La
excursions in the Huerta, hire a Tartana, Vela, which, like that of the Alhambra,
the common Valencian vehicle, which gives warning of irrigation periods.
resembles a dark green covered taxed The cathedral, La Seo, the See, was
cart; the type is the Oriental or Turkish built on the site of a Roman temple
Aruba. It may be compared to a Vene of Diana. It was dedicated to the
tian Gondola on wheels, and,like that, Saviour by the Christian Goths, to
although forbidding-looking, often cou Jllaho-met by the Moors, and to the
tains a deal of fun, like mourning Virgin by the mariolatrous Spaniards,
coaches when the funeral is done. The thus restoring it to a primitive female
name is taken from a sort of felucca, deity. This cathedral was raised to
_or Mediterranean craft. Now-a-days, metropolitan rank, July 9, 1492, by
111 .the civilization mania, English Innocent VIlI.; Rodrigo de Borja,
broughams, and French cabriolets afterwards Alexander VI., being the
are superseding the national vehicle. first archbishop. The sutfragans are
Good riding horses may be hired at cl Segorbe. Orihuela, Mallorca, and Mi
meson de Teruel. norca. This edifice, one of the least
Valencia. CATHEDRAL. 369
remarkable of Spanish capitals, has dal Yoo, but most of the bullion was
been vilely modernized inside and stript ofi‘ and melted in 1809. The
outside; begun in 1262 by Andres painted door-panels, once framed
de Albalat, the third bishop, the with plate, escaped, and of these
original edifice was much smaller, Philip IV. well remarked, that if the
extending only to the chapel of San altar was of silver they were of gold :
Francisco de Borja ; it was lengthened they are painted on both sides and in
in 1482, by Valdemar; but as the a very fine Florentine manner, and
height of the first building was pre have been attributed to Leonardo da
served, it now appears low and dispro Vinci, or at least to his pupils Pablo
portioned to the length. The ori de Aregio and Francisco Neapoli,
ginal style was Gothic, but the interior 1506. Villanueva (i. 39), however,
was Corinthianised in 1760 by Anto thinks them to be the works of Felipe
nio Gilabert; the principal entrance Paulo de Santa Leucadia, a Burgun
is abominable, the receding circular diau artist. They were ordered and
form being in defiance of all archi paid for by Rodrigo Borja in 1471,
tectural propriety. lt was modern who, whatever his vices, was a magni
ized by one Cori-ado Rodulfo, a Ger ficent prince, as his decorated chambers
man, and presents a confused unsightly in the Vatican still evince. Observe
jumble of the Corinthian order, with particularly the Nativity, Ascension,
bad statues of the local saints, Vicente Adoration, Pentecost, the Death,
de Ferrer, Luis Beltran, and others, Resurrection, and the Ascension of
by Ignacio Vergara, a pupil of Ber the Virgin. The finest is perhaps
nini. The Gothic interior has 3 that to the bottom on the rt.; the dead
aisles, with a semicircular termination figure is grand, while those in the
behind the high altar. The transept foreground are superior to Masaccio.
and fine cimborio, built in 1404, are Observe also the landscape in the
the best portions: here 2 Gothic gates Resurrection; these grand things, here
face each other; one de los Apostoles, buried in a napkin, ought to be better
with figure of the Virgin and scra known in Europe. The walls were
phims, the other del Puluu, with the painted in fresco by P. de Aregio and
heads of the 7 couples who contri Francisco Neapoli; but all was de
buted to repeople Valencia, when con stroyed in the barbarous “ improve
quered by the Christians (see Madoz, ments" of Archbishop Camer.os in
xv. 376); behind the circular end is i674-82.
the celebrated chapel ofNuestra Seflora Next observe the painted doors be
do los Desamparados. hind the altar, especially the Christ
The Corinthian Sz'lleria del Caro is seated; this grand work has been
carved in walnut: this with the bronze injured by the key and the friction of
portal were given by the Canon Miedes. opening and shutting. Here are pre
The elaborate Trascoro was wrought served the spurs and bridle of Jaime
in alabaster about 1466, although it the Conqueror. Part of the old
scarcely appears so old. A variety of Retablo exists, and is put up in the Ca
holy subjects in high relief, 6 on pilla dc San Pedro. ’At the Trans
each side, are set in 8 reddish pillars altar is an elegant tomb, with plate
with gilt Corinthian capitals; the resque ornaments and pillars: observe
high altar was unfortunately modern in the superb painted windows the
ised in 1682. The original Retablo rich greens of the centre one, and the
was burnt on Easter Sunday, May 21, purples and scrolly gold-work of the
1460, having been set on fire by a others. Near the Puerta del Arm
pigeon bearing lighted tow, which bispo is the chapel of San Vicente
was meant to represent the Holy Ferrer; observe 2 fine pictures of
Ghost in some religious ceremony. him and his model and master, Saint
The altar mayor was restored in 1498 Dominick. Thence pass to the three
in exquisite silver-work by Jaime Cas Sucristias, and over the door of one
tellnou, the Maestro Cetina, and Na is a grand “ Christ mocked before
B 3
370 VALENCIA——CATHEDRAI,-—RELICS. Sect. V.
Pilate,” in darkish style; also ob one was brought from the monastery
serve on the other side, and opposite of San Juan dc la Perla, but it was
the door of the sacristy, a “ Christ broken in 1744 by a clumsy canon
bearing his Cross." equal to Sebastian named Vicente Trigola. A solemn
del Piombo, by Ribalta; also a “ Dc festival and service was performed to
position,” ascribed to Jean Belino, and this relic Aug. 31 ; and Agustin Sales,
a “Conversion of St. Paul :” in the in 1736, wrote a volume to prove its
Sacristiu, modernised in white and authenticity and power of working
gold, is a “Saviour with a Lamb,” miracles. This santo calix, a fine bit
by Joanes; an “ Abraham and Isaac,” of medizeval silver-work, is kept in a
by Espinosa; and a truly Raphaclesque quaint silver box, with an exquisitely
Holy Family, by Joanes, in which chased paten, ornamented with enamel
St. John gives the Saviour a blue and an engraving of the dead Saviour
flower. Observe also a crucifix of in the Virgin's arms. Note also the
ivory which once belonged to San head of Santo Tomas, which was taken
Francisco de Sales, and the ivory every year in grand procession to re
I2/zculo of St. Agustin, which is kept visit his body, at the Socos. The fine
here in a case. crucifix by Alonso Cano, once in the
The Relicario, once rich in relics Socos, is in the Sala Capitular; it is
and gold and silver, was much thinned life size, and rather unpleasing, from
in I809 of the latter. Among Lax the open mouth, but it is carefully
Reliqwias, as described by Villanneva‘ modelled. This grandiose sala was
(ii. 22), observe especially a tooth of, built in I358 by Pedro Compte.
San Cristobal, big as that of an ass, 4 Observe in the same chapel a. chain
and which some heretical naturalists hung on the wall, which is said to be
assign to a Rhinoceros, but comparative a trophy carried off from Marseilles.
anatomy upsets many a Budd/ta relic. Inquire also particularly in the sacris
This Valencian talisman is here adored tia to see the terno, and complete set
every July I0, a particular holiday, of three fronmles, or coverings for the
inasmuch as the Jewish synagogue at altar, which were purchased in Lon
Valencia was plundered on that day don by two Valencian merchants,
in 139], and the Hebrews massacred, named Andrea and Pedro de Medina,
San Cristobal being seen on the house at the sale by Henry VIII. of the Ro
tops encouraging the disciples of San mish decorations of St. Paul's. They
Vicente Ferrer. Villanneva gives an are embroidered in gold and silver,
engraving of this wise tooth, for the are about I2 ft. long by 4, and repre-~
benefit of posterity, in case the original sent subjects from the life of the Sa
should decay. Yet when alive the viour. In one—Christ in Limbo
good ferryman must either have had a are introduced turrets, evidently taken
new set of teeth every year, or a mouth from those of the Tower of London.
better furnished than an alligator’s, for They are placed on the high altar
there was scarcely a relicario in Spain from Saturday to Wednesday in the
which could not boast of a noble Holy Week. A terno is only used on
grinder. But the clerigos know the full grand funcizmes, when a Misa de trcs
value of a good masticator, which is is celebrated by a Presbytero en cusulla
more precious in acanon’s jaw, than the and two Diaconos en dalmaticas. There
pearl in Cleopatra’s ear. is also a paiio de pulpito, de atril, a
The lorious custodia of I452 was frontal, and a palla to cover the patena
melted uring the war. An arm of St. or top of the sacramental cup. En
Luke is kept in a handsome case, and quire also for a missul, said to have
a. portrait of the Virgin, said to be its belonged to Westminster Abbey before
work, in a pretty Gothic silver frame. the Reformation.
The emphatic relic is el santo calix, In the altar de San Miguel is a Vir
the identical cup used at the last gin by Sassoferrato, and above a fine
supper, of which so many are shown Christ holding a globe. Inquire also
in different orthodox relicarios. This for a “ Virgin” and superb portrait of
Valencia. CHAPEL OF TI-[E VIRGIN. 371
the priest Agnesio by Joanes; his 1667, on the site of a temple to Escu
“ Baptism of the Saviour,” over the lapius, whose practice has now passed
font or pila, is very fine. The expres to this Minerva Medica: her benefits
sion of patience and devotion in the are evinced by infinite votive ofiferin gs.
Son’s face is very remarkable. In the But as Diagoras said there would be
Cupilla San Luis is the tomb of Arch many more votive tablets, if all who
bishop Ayala, 1566; the prelate lies were not cured olfered also (Cic. N. D.
in his robes: the fresco paintings are iii. 37). Be that as it may, no wonder
by Josef Vergara, and bad. The Ca that her image is placed in the Valen
pilla San Sebastian contains several cian hospital, el General, since the Me
paintings by Orrente, of which observe dicos de Valencia, according to the pro
the tutelar saint, the masterpiece of ve'rb—pace Dr. Battles—have luengas
this Valencian Bassano. Ribalta, when faldas y poca cienciu. Among the infi
told that he was going to paint it, nite names and attributes of the Virgin
said, “ Then you will see a fine Santo none is more common in Spain than that
de lana,” alluding to his sheepish style. rleloslicrncdios. The chapel, modernised
The "sepulchres of Diego de Covar and beautified in 1823, in the vilest
robias, obt. 1604, and Maria Diaz, his taste, is a gaudy oval, enriched with
wife, are fine. The Capilla dc San marble pillars and gilt Corinthian
Pedro was modernized in 1703; the capitals: the dome was painted and
altar is churrigueresque; the walls puffed by Palomino, in his own book
were painted by the feeble Palomino, (ii. 296). He inscribed it “ Non est
and the cupola by the more feeble inventum tale opus in universis reg
Canon Victoria. Observe the exqui nis.” The subject is the “ Coronation
site “ Christ in a violet robe with the of the Virgin by the Trinity ;” the
wafer and chalice,” by Joanes. Ob execution is below mediocrity: the
serve portions of the alabaster screen, Palladium of Valencia itself; the sa
which originally formed the Retablo of grada imagen, richly arrayed and de
the high altar; the “ Christ bearing his corated, is placed under a superb
Cross,” by Ribalta: many fine pictures camarin of jaspers; it was carved in
have recently “ disappeared ;” enquire, 1410, by order of the Spanish antipope
however, for the portrait of “ El Beato Luna, Benedict XIlI., who destined it
Ribera,” and the “ Santo Tomas de for the chapel of a lunatic asylum:
Villanueva,” both by Joanes. The others say it was made by 3 angels in
Sala Oupitular has also been modem 3 days, a legend which is painted in
.ised, in white and gold, with pinkish the picture here by Orrente. During
marble pillars. The Capilla de San the war the image was created by the
Francisco de Borja is painted in fresco sane Valencians Generalisimn, just as
by the poor Baycu and Goya. In an Teresa of Avila was appointed Com
altar to the N. in a glass case and mander-in-Chief by the Cortes of
covered with dust is a grand Ecce Cadiz, which refused to appoint the
Hmno, which probably is by Ribalta. Duke of Wellington; accordingly when
Leaving the Puerta dc los Apostolcs, the French entered Valencia, this
is an incongruous modern brick build image of the Virgin wore the 3 gold
ing stuck on to the cathedral, the old bars, the emblems of the rank of Cap,
gate contrasting with an open circular tain-General, and the Marques dc los
white Ionic erection, which, with its Palacios, commander of the city, took
double gallery, looks like a Plaza do few other steps of defence than laying
Zbros ; an arched passage leads to the his baton at its feet. It was then car
chapel of Nuestra Seilora dc los Denm ried in pomp round the walls, the
parados, the Virgin of the Unprotected, whole population exclaiming, “ The
to whom, when not protected by allies, divine mother will protect us.” Much
the Blakes and Mahys applied in reliance was also placed on lighted
times of danger, instead of putting candles, as, 2 burning before La Ma
their own shoulders to the wheel. donna having escaped a bomb, a Spa
The ancient sanctuary was rebuilt in nish colonel assured the inmates of the
372 VALENCIA——HOUSI$ . Sect. V .
house that she would save Spain obliged to be set back, with a view of
“ because the number two signified per widening the streets; the rebuilt man
severance.” See for details Schep. iii. sions are uniform and commonplace,
437, 4ss. with rows of balconies. Of the most
The prelate’s palace is close to el remarkable -houses observe the fine
Seo: it once "contained a fine library, specimen “ la Cusa de Salicofras,” with
formed in I762 by Don Andres noble patio and marble colonnade.
Mayoral: the chapter library was also The upper corridor is charming, with
very rich in medals, antiquities, and slender njirrwz pillars. Observe the
liturgical codices, made in I812, portals and doorways. It, in latter
during Suchet’s occupation, food for times, has been degraded into a printing
bombs, and fuel for camp kettles. concern and a chocolate-shopl Another
The shelves have in some sort been re good house is in the Calle Cadirers: ob
filled. Next visit the fine saloons in serve that of the Marques dc dos Aguas,
the Casa Con-Sisioriul, or the Audiencia, Plaza de Villaraza, which has a gro
a noble Doric pile: the view from its. tesque portal, a fricasee of palm-trees,
balustrades is fine. Ascending to the Indians, serpents, and absurd forms, the
first floor and entering the anteroom design of one Rovira and the work of
of the great saloon, observe the por Vergara. In the house of the Conde
traits of the kings of Spain, hung dc Ccrvellon, near the Puerta del Mar,
around, below the cornice; el Salon de Ferdinand VII. was lodged on his re
Cortes is a noble room, and has its turn from France. The house-fancier
walls painted in curious old frescoes may visit that of Pino/iermoso, G. del
by Cristobal Zaririeria, 1592, but since Gobernador Viejo, and of Baron Llauri,
vilely gone over with oil, representing with its fine Genoese marbles: from
the ditferent members, and seemingly the balcony of Tio Florido’s house the
over the places which the originals patriot Riego harangued the mob.
occupied; above is a charming carved . The vast mansion of the Conde de
gallery, then a halustrade, pillars, cor-_ Parsent, Calle de Carniceros, contains
nice, and rich panelled ceiling, rare some good pictures: observe the Ado
treats for the architectural eye. In a ration of Shepherds, a St. Catherine,
chest are kept the sword of the con Christ breaking the Bread at Emmans,
queror Jaime, and the Moorish keys by Ribalta. The ]l[a1-ques del Rdfol
of the town surrendered to him ; in the has also a collection : observe the San
library is a curious MS. relating to the Pedro Pascual, a head of Christ, Mo
city’s commerce in the 15th centy. The rales, 2 Dominican Monks plucking
chapel of the Virgin and 3 adjoining Flowers, 'a Crucifixion, San Bernardo,
courts contain nothing remarkable. Isaac and Abraham, all by Ribalta;
Below, the Secretaria del Gobierno has also his portrait by himself; a fine '
also a fine gilt and carved ceiling. San Sebastian, by Ribera; San Vicente
The Calle dc atI)I.l”8)‘0S is, as its preaching, Joanes. The celebrated
name implies, the aristocratic street. zesthetic hairdresser, El Peluquero Pedro
The character of these Valencian Perez, whose house was crammed
houses is anything but unsubstantial, with an omnium gatherum of art,
as they have an air of solid nobility: where all the geese were swans, died
a large portal opens into a patio, with in 1848, leaving his treasures to his
arched colonnades, which are fre old maid. The Spanish and Celtibe
quently elliptical; the staircases are rian coins were good until the perm
remarkable for their rich banisters, quier polished otf the venerable a=.rugo~,
and the windows are either Gothic or lathering and shaving them as it were,
formed in the ajimez style, with a a common fate in Spain. This unmis
slender single shaft dividing the aper matic Figaro was, after all,himself,like
ture; the long lines of open arcades old Tradescant, the most curious of his
under the roofs give an Italian light rarities. This Figaro of taste, when he
ness iu these modernising days. When laid aside his razors, was appointed
ever a house is now taken down it is “ Conserge” to the Academy of Nobles
Valencia. COLEGIO DE CORPUS. 373
Artes of San Carlos, Plaza de his purple pall, the colour of mourning;
Barcus, where are some second-rate none stand near it save the silent qui
objects of art, and bad pictures with risters; next an aged priest approaches
good names, a Transfiguration by Ri and prostrates himself; then all kneel
balta, a San Sebastian by Ribera, and on the ground and the solemn chant
some portraits of poets from the mo begins. At the first verse the picture
nastery Murta. A barber, however, is above the altar descends by a noiseless
a personage in this land of Figaro. unseen machinery, and the vacancy is
Suchet, too, who shaved Valencia supplied by a lilac veil with yellow
pretty well, began life as ’prentice to a stripes; as the chant proceeds this is
perruquier. In the Calle San Vicente withdrawn, and discloses one of a
lives a hatter, el Sombrcrero, who has faint grey, which, when removed, dis
also some Barberic pictures, which he covers another of deep black, and then
shows readily to strangers; they are but after a lengthened pause another and
second-class. Ditto aSexior De la Cuadz-Z1. the last. The imagination is thus
The Colegio de Corpus or del Patri worked up into a breathless curiosity,
arcu is a museum of Ribaltas. It was which is heightened by the tender
founded in 1586, and finished in 1605 feeling breathed out in that most
by the Archbishop Juan Rihcra, a beautiful of penitential psalms. Then
scion of that powerful family of Se at once the last veil of the temple is
ville. He is generally called “El as it were rent asunder, and the Sa
Santa Ribera,” having been canonized viour appears dying on the cross; a
in 1797: he died in 1611, aged 78, sepnlchral light is cast on the brow, on
' having been primate of Valencia 42 which a sweat of agony seems to
years: see the engraved stone in the mantle, while “the shadow of death
middle of the transept. He was a hangs on the eyelid” (Job -xvi.
ferocious persecutor of the Moriscos; l6). This melodramatic representation,
one of his pulpit diatribes is printed by which realises, as it were, the Cruci
Dr. Geddes in his Tracts (i. 166, 3rd fixion, was too harrowing to be long
edit., Lond., 1730). His life has been looked at; but soon a distant quire
written by Francisco Escriba, 4to., of silvery voices struck up, and the
Valencia, 1612, and by Juan Ximenez, pall closed over the spectacle: ‘one not
fol., Roma, 1734. The noble Corinth to be profaned by irreverent or length
ian chapel of the college was built by ened curiosity.
Anton del Rey, after, it is said, a plan The scholar will compare these many
of Herrera. It is somewhat dark, the curtains, these “ hangings” (2 Kings
windows being very small; the walls xxiii. 7), and their gradual with
again, like in the temples of Babylon drawal, with those described by Apn
(Baruch vi. 21), are “ blacked through leius (Met. xi. 252), “ Velis reductis
the smoke ” of the “incense offered to in diversum ;” and still closer by
the queen of Heaven ” (Isa. xliv. 25), Tertullian, in his first chapter ad V -
nigra fuado siinulacra fumo; moreover lentinianosl where the phallic idol was
the daylight was purposely excluded revealed: “ nihil magis curant qnam
by desire of the founder, who wished occultare, quod prmdicunt—~tanti1I11
to give the impressiveness of religious majestatem exhibere videatur quantam
obscure to the ceremonies, which show praestruxerunt cupiditatem; sequitur
the best in their own dim shadow. jam silentii ofiicium, attenté custoditur
The miserere on a Friday morning quod tardé invenitur; caeterum tota in
is, or was in our time, one of the adytis divinitas, tota suspiria epoptarmn,
most impressive services of Spain: be totum signaculum revelatur.” Some
there at 10, as soon after the dark have read instead of the “ sighs of the
ling chapel is rendered darker by admitted eye-witnesses,” tot szparia
drawing blinds over the windows and portarum, “ so many curtains of doors ;”
shutting the doors, to exclude also the but either reading IS equally applicable
idle trifler; the whole space above to what takes place on this occasion at
the high altar is now covered with a Valencia.
374 VALENCL-\—RIBALTA. Sect. V.
The sculptor should examine this lomé Malarana (Kill Frog). The pic
crucifix as a work of art; and by ap ture in the Capilla de las Animus is by
plication to the rector, and a fee to the F. Zuccaro. The body of the founder
sacristrm, it can be seen in the after is preserved in a sarcophagus, and lies
noon, When the chapel is closed to the clad in episcopal robes, with a crozier
public; get a ladder and lights, and between the legs; the gold and silver
then will be revealed the ropes and" ornaments were stripped ofi‘by Suchet’s
contrivances by which all this solemn troops: the features are pinched and
scene-shifting is managed. The carv wasted; the gorgeous copes and trap
ing is one of the finest in Spain, but pings mock the mouldering mummy:
nothing is known of its origin. It be in the Cttpilla de San Mauro is another
longed to the founder, and was placed of these melancholy relics.
here by his express order, as a relic, The Sacristia is fine, and was built
from the number of miracles which it by Geronimo Yavari. The wardrobes
worked. To us it appeared to be Flo with Doric ornaments are good; in an
rentine, and of the time of Jaen de inner room is the Reliquario; the bones,
Bologna. The material is a dark &c., are arranged in rows like an ana
wood; the feet, extremities. and ana tomical museum; the invaders “ re
tomy are very fine: observe the broad moved” the gold and silver settings.
modelling of the forehead, and the The spectator kneels while the show
lines about the mouth,where character man points to each, and an assistant
resides; as death is here represented, drawls out the items as by rote. This
the absence of life, which is so felt in exhibition usually takes place imme
painted sculpture, does not offend. diately after the Friday miserere, and
The whole church deserves a care destroys all devotional sentiment; it
ful inspection, as here Ribalta is pro is a farce after the tragedy. Observe,
perly to be estimated: in the first however, a small altar painted by
chapel to the l. is one of his mas J oanes, and the picture of a dead pre
terpieces, and painted in a style be late with Satan and an angel contend
tween Titian and Vandyke; “San ing for his soul, which belonged to El
Vicente de Ferrer visited on his sick Santa Ribera, and was always kept in
bed by our Saviour and Saints ;” he his room as a memento mori. Notice
rises on his pallet, his expression of also an ivory and a bronze crucifix of
humble gratitude contrasts with the Florentine work. The Sula Uupitzllar
kindness and sympathy exhibited to contains a few pictures, but the light
wards him; the light is unfortunately is very bad. The fine Doric and Ionic
bad. Next pass to the high altar, cloisters, with an Italian marble co
which is a superb pile of green mar lonnade, were erected in the Herrera
bles and jaspers; the crucifix is con style by Guillem del Rey; Suchet
cealed by a grand “ Last Supper” by converted them into his magazine or
Ribalta; the head of an Apostle with receiving-house. Observe an antique
a white beard is equal to anything Ceres, which has been bunglingly re
painted by the old Veuetians; the paired. Here are 4 pictures by Joannes
Judas in the foreground is said to be Stradanus—The Ascension, Birth,
the portrait of a shoemaker by whom Supper, and St. John: they are kept
Ribalta was worried; above the Sup covered, except on cl dia de Corpus.
per is a charming “Holy Family,” Next ascend by a noble staircase to
also by Ribalta; the child is painted the library: over the door is a statue
like Titian: in the small recesses on of Hercules. Those books which es
each side of the altar are 2 fine pic caped the modern Omars are put away
tures on panel in the style of Juanes; in handsome Ionic cases, for the ban
in that to the rt. our Saviour is at the quet of worms. Here are some portraits
column, in that to the l. he bears his of Spanish kings, &c. The rectoral
cross. The cupnla is painted in fresco, lodgings are also up-stairs, and contain
with martyrdoms and miracles of San fine pictures: inquire for a portrait of
Vicente, and holy subjects, by Barto Clement VIIl., and for that of the
Valencia. UNIVEP.SlTY——PA INTERS. 375
founder, an intelligent old man with of Santo Tomas, and has some toler
long pointed nose and square beard; it able pictures; but that of the Virgin is
is by Juan Zeriuefia: also for a Christ not by Leonardo, as is here pretended.
in the Garden of Olives, by Ribalta; Since the suppression of the con
and by the same masterasuperb Christ vents a provincial museum has been
at the Column, painted in the style of established in the former convent del
Sebastian del Piombo: observe also a Carmen, where the great Valenciau
Christ bearing the Cross by Morales, school may really be studied and ap
and a noble picture of a Beata in a preciated: it contains 600 or 700 pie
brown dress by Ribalta; the best time tures, of which the vast majority are
to see these interesting objects is of an worthless. The best are placed in a
afternoon, but ladies are not admitted. Sala by themselves. The chief painters
Thus the ungallant priests of the to be observed are Vicente Joanes, the
temple of Hercules at Cadiz warned ofi‘ Spanish Raphael, and head of the Va
female trespassers, coupling them, que lentian school; he was born at Fuente
cochinos! with swine. Sil. ltal. iii. 22. la Higuera, 1523 ob. 1597; he was
Near this Colegio is the Universidad, buried in the Santa Cruz, but his ashes
a fine, large, red building, and much were moved to this Carmen in I842;
frequented by students: the library then Francisco de Rihalta, who is the
is well arranged; that founded by Spanish Domenichino and Sebastian
Bayer in 1785, was burnt by the ‘del Piombo combined: he was born in
French in 181:2, but has been re Castellon de la Plana about 1551, died
placed since from the suppressed con at Valencia, 1628, and is buried 111 the
vents, and now contains some 40,000 San .1urm del Mercado : he was the
volumes. Among them a copy of the painter of San Vicente de Ferrer, 2'. e.
rare Tirante Lo Blane, of which the a local painter of a local subject; just
finest known is in the Grenville library as MUl‘lllO was of the Concepcion, so
of the British Museum, and another worshiped by Sevillians. There is a
in the Sapienza at Rome; it also pos picture, probably by Ribalta, in Mag
sesses some rare bibles, books of chi dalen Chapel, Oxford, although even
valry, and Spanish cinqne-ccntos, and his name has not penetrated into those
some vellum MSS.,' e. g. a Virgil, cloisters, and the picture is ascribed to
Pliny, Livy, and Aristotle, with ex artists with whose works it has not
cellent illuminations, which formerly even a remote resemblance.
belonged to the Convento de Zos Reyes, Another great Valencian, Josef Ri
and escaped Suchet's firebrands by bera (Spagnoletto), was pupil of Ri
having been sent to Mayorca before balta: he was born at Xativa, 1588,
his arrival. Suchet, uneducated, igno and died at Naples, 1656, where he led
rant. and tasteless, only “collected” the Hispano-Neapolitan school. He
cash; in matters of art-plunder, he painted cruel martyr subjects in a
was to Soult what Mummius of old decided Caravaggio style of marked
was to Verres. No bibliophile should shadows and lights (see p. 359). Jacinto
fail visiting the library of Don Vicente Geronimo Espinosa, the best of a family
Salva, which is eminently rich in curi of painters. was born in Cocentaina,
ous, and exclusively Spanish books, the 1600, and was also a disciple of Ribalta:
earliest and rarest. he died at Valencia, 1680, and is buried
Formerly travellers who wished to in San Martin: he imitated the Car
scourge themselves (see San Gines, racci school. Pedro Orreute, the Bas
Madrid), found whips and every ac sano of Spain, and as monotonous and
commodation, after las Oraciones, in multiplied, was born at Monte Alegre
the church of La Congregacion; now about 1560, and died at Toledo, 1644:
this is converted into a college for he principally painted cattle and Ador
oflicers, to whom the mention of these ations of Shepherds: although he was
previous practices is unpleasant. That a mannerist, he coloured his low sub
fine church, built in 1736, by one jects well ; he was the master of Pablo
Tosca, has been given to the clergy Pontons, whose pictures are seldom
“'1'

376 VALENCIA PAINTINGS. Sect. V.


seen out of Valencia, and of Esteban Visit the church of Sun Juan to see
March, a painter of battle-pieces, who the celebrated Concepcion, or La Pu
died here in I660; both these imitated risima, which formerly was in the
the Bassanos through Orrente. These Compania, having been painted for los
pastoral pictures are as tiresome as Jeswitas, and under the following cir
pastoral poetry, which then was all the cumstances:-—the Virgin herself ap
fashion; Scripture was degraded by peared in person to the Jesuit Martin
peasant forms; angels became acces de Alvaro, and desired him to have
sories to cattle; there may be the her painted exactly as he then beheld
merit of truth to ordinary nature, but her. He applied to Joanes, giving all
divine subjects require a more epic the details of the vision; the artist,
treatment. The Zarifienas are another after many failures, by the advice of
Valencian family of painters of se Alvaro, confessed and went through a
cond-rate merit. Valencia has pro long religious exercise, and then pro
duced no great sculptor. duced this picture; the Virgin when
Among the best pictures by Joanes it was finished descended from heaven
are 3 of our Saviour, Nos. 239, 244, and expressed herself satisfied (see Pa
246; observe especially that from lomino, ii. 395). Charles IV. wished
Santo Dominyo, in a violet dress: a to remove it to Madridwhen he founded
magnificent San Francisco de Paula, her order, but refrained from fears of
in a brown dress leaning on his staff, a popular outbreak. The figure is
from Los Jlinimos, and 236 an Assump colossal, but the expression is meek
tion of the Virgin. Remark, by Ri and innocent: on each side are em
balta, ‘.2 of the Virgins, 412, 69; and blems and mottoes allusive to her
San Vicente preaching, from Santo manifold perfections. Here also is a
Domingo; San Francisco, from Los Saviour holding the wafer, by Joannes.
C’-tpwchinos; a Cardinal, by Espirwsa; Visit the church of Sun Jllurtin;
a Holy Family; a St. Jerome; an As over the door is a bronze equestrian
sumption, from Santo Domingo ; a San statue ofthe tutelar dividing his cloak ;
José, from Los Agostinos: by El Bosco it weighs 4000 lbs., and the horse is
(Jerome Bosch of Bois le Due), whose heavier. In the interior is a grand
grotesque hobgoblin pictures, St. Dead Christ, lamented by the Marys,
Anthonys, &c., were once popular in by Ribalta, and a Crucifixion over a
Spain; the 3 singular pictures from Retablo. Visit by all means the San
Santo Do/ningo—the Crowning with Nicolas, originally a Moorish mosque,
Thorns, the Christ at the Pillar, and the frescoes are by Dionis Vidal, a
in the Garden: inquire for the altar pupil of Palomino. The church is dis
0f'Jaime I., with its singular old paint figured by stucco abortions. Calix
ings. There is a clever picture, a tus III. was curate here, and his me
Procession in honour of the Virgin, by dallion is placed over the principal
Orrente. El Beale Nicolas Factor was entrance. Observe especially the paint
born in 15-20, in the Calle del Mar, ings by Joanes over both the altars, to
Manzana 4, at Santa Teclas, where is the rt. and l. of the Altar mayor. On
the jasper-adorned Grotto in which San the l. is a cvnacolo, kept under a case,
Vicente was martyrised, and marked which is considered by Cean Bermudez
by an Italian statue. The blessed to be his masterpiece. Notice also 8
Nicolas is buried in the extramural smaller pictures of much beauty, and,
convent Sit, Jllaria de Jesus, outside the above all, those connected with the
Puerta de San Vicente, and now a silk Creation. The paintings on the rt. hand
manufactory. He lies in the chapel, altar are inferior, and were probably
and is painted over the altar, in the finished by the scholars of Jounes.
air and in extacy; the picture when On an altar in the side aisle are other
slipped aside reveals his well-tanned pictures by this master, some fine; and
body in a black and gold cherub-sup in the Sacrislia 2 heads of Christ and
ported sarcophagus. Consult Stirling's the Virgin. painted on a round panel, in
excellent Annals of Spanish Artists. his best style.
Valencia. EL MERCADO—PLAZAS. 377
The Escuela Pia, a tolerable semi disfigured with heavy overdone orna
nary, was built in 1738 by the Arch ments in stucco and churrigueresque.
bishop Mayoral: the rotunda is very The much-admired cupola is painted
noble, but has been injured by light in fresco by Palomino, and, although
ning. The green marbles of Cer puffed in his own book (ii. 290), is a
vera used here are rich: observe the poor performance; San Vicente figures
San Antonio, a fine picture by Ri like the angel of the Apocalypse. The
balta, painted something like Guer Retablo, by Munoz, is bad; the marble
cino. The saint in black holds the pulpit was wrought at Genoa by one
child in his arms, while an angelic Ponzanelli.
quire hovers above. The Plaza de Stlfltl Catalina is the
The Puertu del Cid, by which the mart of gossip, and the fair sex re
Champion entered, and now in the turning from mass make a point of
town near the gate el Real, is built passing through it to see and to be
into the Temple, where was the tower seen. The hexagon tower of the
called Alibufut, on which the Cross church, built in 1688, is disfigured by
was first hoisted. This church once windows and rococo pillars and orna
belonged to the Templars, and was ments. The Gothic interior has been
given to the order of Montesa in l3l7: ruined by stucco. lt was made a
ruined by an earthquake in 1748, straw magazine by Suchet, who tore
it was rebuilt in 1764 by Miguel Fer down and destroyed the glorious altar
nandez. The portico is fine: observe de los Platerus, painted by Ribalta : the
the circular altar, with choice jaspars adjoining Plum de las Barcas is nothing
and gilt capitals, under which is the more than a wide street. Close by is
Virgin’s image, and the doors leading the C’olc_r]2'0, founded in 1550 by Santo
to the Presbitero; in this edifice the Tomas dc Villanueva, archbishop of
Lioco artistico hold their meetings. Valencia, with its quaint irregular
Suchet plundered the Temple of much Patio. In the Cuarto rectoral is the
plate, and turned it into a custom grand picture, by Ribalta, of this pre
house. The numerous convents of late surrounded by scholars. The
Valencia, like most of the churches, Stmto was buried in San Agustin (El
were tawdry in decoration, for in no Socés), ina noble sepulchre. This build
place has churriguerism and stucco ing serves now for the presidio correc
done more mischief, while whole Cuenca cional, a reformatory philanthropic
pine-forests were carpentered into de penitentiary-—not a thing of Spain
formity aud plastered with gilding. which was founded by the patient and '
_ The principal plaza, called El Mer energetic Don Manuel Montesinos: it
mdo, is in the heart of the city, and is clean and well managed. The pri
soners are employed at different works,
was the site of tournaments and exe
cutions, where the Cid and Suchet and the silent system observed. See
put prisoners to death without trial or the account of the Sistmna, by Vicente
mercy. The market-place is well sup Boix, 1850.
plied, and the costume of the peasants The N.E. corner, between the gates
is very picturesque. Here is the LOTIJIA el Real and del Mar, is full of interest.
dc Svdu, the silk-hall, a beautiful Gothic On the Plaza dc la Aduunu is a huge
building of 1-L82. The saloon is mag red brick Doric pile, with vile statues
nificent, and supported by spirally by Vergara, built for Charles III. by
fluted pillars: this is the Chamber of Felipe 1-Bubio, in 1760, as a custom
Commerce; observe in a pretty arden house : but it was soon,under the com
attached to it, the beautiful othic merce-strangling system, like that of
windows, medallions with heads, and Malaga, converted into a manufactory
coronet-like battlements. The stair of cigars. The charming Paseo de la
case of the Lonju is good. The window Glorieta, so frequented by the fair sex,
ornamcnts and armorial decorations _was laid out and planted in 1817 by
were mutilated by the invaders. Op Elio, who converted into a garden of
posite to the Lonja is the church of the Hesperus a locality made a desert by
Santos Juanes, which also has been Suchet, who razed 300 houses to clear a
378 VALE.\IClA——SAN VICENTE DE FERRER. Sect. V.
glacis for the adjoining citadel. When Ferrer took the cowl. His chapel by
Elio was massacred in 1820 by the Con Antonio Gilabert is a pile of precious
stitutionalists, because a royalist, they green and red marbles, jaspars, and
selected this very garden for his place of agates. The chapel of Sa.n Luis Bel
execution, and the Valencians wished tran, where his uncorrupted body was
to tear up even the trees and flowers, kept, was adorned with pillars of a
because planted by a royalist hand remarkable green marble; here were
(compare San Lucar and Granada, the beautiful tombs of the monks Juan
pp. 154, 317). Mico and Domingo Anadon. .The
When Ferdinand VII. was restored chapel of the Virgen del Rosario was all
to his full power in 1823, Elio, although that gold and decoration could make
dead and buried, was restored to his it, and contrasted with the severe
rank and honours, and his name sombre Gothic of the Capilla de los
figured for years afterwards among the Reyes, founded by Alonso V. of Arra
generals in the Spanish army-list “ un gon, and now the Panteon Provincial.
attached.” This deceased, made im Here are the Berruguete sepulchres of '
mortal by a decree, was probably far Rodrigo Mendoza, obt.1554, and Maria
from being the worst of his brother Fonseca his wife. The superb railings
generals. Death has long been defied were torn down by Suchet’s troops,
by the powers in‘ Spain; the Inquisi who also burnt the noble library.
tion perpetuated infamy, and the abso San Vicente is the tutelar of Valencia,
lute king guaranteed honour, beyond and none can understand Ribalta. with
the grave. out some knowledge of his history,
The citadel was built by Charles V. which has given much employment to
to defend Valencia against Barbarossa. the pencils, chisels, and pens of Spa
The Glorieta, with its statuettes in the niards. Consult his Life by Vicente
box circles, is a delicious promenade, Justiniani,Val. I582, and his ‘ Milagros,’
and frequented by the fashion and Francisco Diago, 4to. Barcelona, I600;
beauty of the town; of course the tra ditto, Juan Gabaston, 4to. Val. 1614;
veller will go there at the proper hour ‘ Historia de la Vida Mzzratillosa,’ Val
in the cool evenings. But medical men decebro, 4to. Mad. I740; ‘ Vida, ]lI~ila
have observed since its opening an gros,’ &c., Thomas Merita y Llazer,
increase of consumptive disorders, 8vo. Val. I755, with rude woodcuts of
arising from night exposure after the his chief miracles; and the ‘ S/Igrario ’
perspirations of the hot day. On of Solorcano (see p. 9), and Esp. Sagr.
the N. side is the Plaza de Santa xxxix. 52. San Vicente is called the
Domingo. The convent was founded St. Paul of Spain, and is the “ glorious
by Jaime I., who laid the first stone; apostle” of Valencia. He is painted
it was once a museum of art of all flying in the air, like the winged angel
kind, until dcsolated by Suchet, who in the Apocalypse (Rev. xiv. 10), with
bombarded Valencia from this side. an inscribed scroll, “timetc Deum,”
It is now occupied by the captain while mitres and cardinals’ hats lie
general; the church and chapels are neglected on the ground, alluding to
converted into store-rooms for artillery his repeated nolo Episcopari. Miracles
and ammunition, and the pictures re preceded his birth, for his father was
moved to the Museo; once the lion an honest attorney. His mother when
of Valencia, it still deserves a visit. pregnant heard a child barking in her
Observe the Doric portal and statues. womb. Thus Pliny (N. H viii. 41)
The chapter-house and cloisters are in mentions a pagan dog speaking, but not
excellent Gothic; the latter, planted in a woman's belly; and L-ivy (xxiv.
with orange-trees and surrounded with 10) tells us that a babe in utero matris
small chapels, was the burial-place of exclaimed I0 trimnp/ze. So the mother
the Escala family, whose sepulchre of the bloody Dionysius dreamed that
was most remarkable on account of she produced a Satyriscus (Cic. de Div. _
the costume of 2 armed knights. In i. 20). So Hecuba and the- dam of the
the Capilla del Capitalo, which is sup Inquisidor St. Dominick dreamt that
ported by 4 airy pillars, San Vicente they were pregnant of fire-brands. San
'alenct'a. SAN VICENTE DE FERRER. 379
Vicente’s mother, instead of consulting saint afterwards cured the sick, ex
asage femme in this uterine dilemma, pelled devils, raised the dead, had the
went for advice to the Bishop ltamon gift of prophecy, and predicted the
del Gasto, who assured her-—a compli papacy of Calixtus lII., who rewarded
ment to her sex—that she would pro it by making him a saint, a natural
duce a “mastifi' who would hunt the empeiio or job, which most Spaniards
wolves of heresy to hell." But as will always do for apuisuno. He lived
Fielding says of Jonathan Wyld the and died a virgin, having continually
Great, such men cannot come into the kicked the devil out of his cell when
world like ordinary mortals, so nature ever he came in the shape of a pretty
introduces them on the stage with a woman ; he never washed or wore linen,
grand preparatory flourish. and as he slept in his woollen clothes,
The babe was whelped in I350 in the which he never changed, his odour of
Calle del Mar (Manzana 91), Where an sanctity spread far and wide, and three
oratorio still marks the sacred spot.i days after his death his fragrancy con
The young terrier in due time became verted many from their sins; he was
a monk of the persecuting Dominican always refusing mitres ; the Virgin
order, and soon a leader of these constantly visited him in his cell, and
Domini Canes, those bloodhounds of when he was sick, the Saviour, attended
the Inquisition. He then commenced by St. Francis and St. Dominick, came
an itinerant preaching crusade against to comfort him. The events of his life
the Jews, and agitated even Ireland, and miracles still form the religious
travelling there on an ass. He was melodrames of Valencia. Thus by his
followed by a pack of disciples, who, intercession no lightning can fall on
credite posieri, whipped each other for his city; but his great local miracle, the
their mutual solace and benefit. spain, restoring a stew of rice which a boy
however, was his “ best country ;” here coming from a bakehouse had let fall,
he converted 100,000 heretics, for he is deservedly popular in a city which
preached a crusade of blood and confis exists chiefly on this grain and mess.
cation to a fanatic people whose dark As San Vicente was baptized in
points of character are envy, hatred, San Esteban, his “ Buutisvno” is still
cruelty, avarice, and intolerance. Thus regularly performed there by appro
they gratified their worst passions os priately dressed characters, April
tensibly for the sake of religion, and the fith. His “ miracles” are repre
the fonlest crimes that could disgrace sented during his l\'oi-marz'o in the
human nature were travestied into acts open streets, where altars are erected
of piety. S“. Vicente still is the school to him; these exhibitions on the
master of Valencia. Visit his imperial Mercado, Tros Alt, and Plaza de la
college, which is well managed. He Cmzgregacion, are so extraordinary that
was a true Valencian ; such Ribera. they must be seen to be credited. St.
was in painting, Bor -ia and Calvo Vincent of the Cape is also a Valencian
were in practice. He ied in France, tutelar, who was put to death in the
April 5, l4l8, aged 60: his miracles Santa Tesla, Calle de Mar; his prison
pass all belief and number, and he be in the Plaza ole la Almoina was renewed
gan working them as soon as he put on in 1832. In this church is also a mi
the cowl. His first essay was tried on raculous image, El Crislo del Rescatv,
a mason, who, tumbling from a house which is prayedto when rain is wanted,
top as Vicente was passing by, implored and the glass is observed to be falling.
his aid. “ Nay,” replied the humble The ch. of Sun Salvador possesses the
monk,“ I dare do nothing without first identical miraculous image, El Crista
having the permission of my superiors.” de J'>’e_:/rut, which is described by all
He returned to the convent, obtained local historians as made by Nicodemus,
leave, and then came back and saved and on which St. Athanasius is said to
_the mason, who in the meantime had have written a treatise; many Jews
remained suspended in mid-air, arrested have been converted by the blood and
in his fall by an emanation of power water which issue from its wounds. It
unknown to San Vicente himself. T-he navigated by itself from Syria, as once
380 VALENCIA-—AZULEJO. Sect. V.
was common enough in antiquity and Valencia is celebrated for its Azu
Spain. Compare Santiago at Pad:-on lejos from the time of the Moors; and
and the Cristo de B/zrgos ; compare no doubt the celebrated Rafael ware,
the wooden Hercules that sailed much or Majolica, arose from some speci
in the same way from the same mens carried from Majorca (Majolica)
country, Tyre. (Pausa. vii. v. 3.) The by the Italians to Pisa. The best shops
image worked its way up to Valencia are in the Calle nuera de Pescadorcs,
against the river-stream; a monu and near the Calle de Rusafa; many
ment, erected in 1738, marks the subjects are kept ready-made, and any
spot where it landed. Consult the pattern can be imitated. The richest
work of J. Ban. Ballestor, Val. 1672, colours are the blues, blacks, and
on all the facts and miracles of this purples. The cla , of a chocolate
image. Valencia has no end of brown, is brought rom Manises. The
churches, many of which were once white varnish is given by a mixture of
mosques, which we in mercy omit, but barilla, lead, and tin: the ovens are
the sight-seer, if not weary, may look heated with fnrze, and the clay is
at some pictures in San Andres, and baked 3 days and 3 nights, and re
by Joanes in the Ifetublo of San Bar quires 4 days to cool. Visit the manu
tolomé, and a Saviour in San Pedro. factory of Vals, in the suppressed
Observe also a grand Puso Nuestra extra-mural C'apuc/zinos.
Sefiora del Cu:-1nen, which has a rich Valencia abounds in pleasant walks;
cofradia to defray the culto and candles. take one to the river, or rather the
In Sm Esteban is the adorable and river-bed, for it is so drained for irri
miracle-working body of San Luis gation, that, excepting at periods of
Beltran, who was born close by; an rains, it scarcely sufiices for the washer
oratory marks the sacred spot. women. The massy bridges and their
Valencia is indeed studded with gods strong piers, which seem to be sine
and goddesses En;/Iitterte, as Schiller cures, denote, however, the necessity
sung of pagan Greece. Here is a local of protection against occasional inun
tnrbt Deorum, which, as Juvenal said, dations. Thus the Pmzntc del ]VIar was
no Atlas could carry; and Cicero, could carried away in the flood of Nov. 5,
he behold this restoration of his Pan 1776. The Valencians are great
theon, would find merely a few names pigeon- shooters. The dip, at La
changed, the same “ numerus deorum Pechina, is the resort for cl tiro (la las
innumerabiles” —the plures quoque palomas : cock-fighting is another pas
Joves—the many St. Vincents-—the time; the grand I?e1'u'dero de Gallos
Dianze item plures-—the many Virgins is in the Llano de la Zaidia, and cow
of Carmen, Desamparados, &c. The ardly cockthrowing goes on outside the
scholar may turn to his remarkable gate San Vicente. Observe near La Pe
passages, de Nat. Deo. i. 30; iii. 16, 22. china an inscription found here in 1759
There is a good new theatre in the —“ Sodalicium vernarum colentes Isid.”
Calle de las ]>’1u~c/1s, with a handsome This was an ancient cofradia to Isis,
room, in which, sometimes, an Italian which paid for her culto, so inveterate
opera is performed. There are some is this habit. There is a treatise on
books and natural history at the this inscription, by Augustin Sales,
Sociedad Euwwmica, Plaza de las Mos Val. 1760. Valencia once abounded in
eas: the public archives are in the inscriptions, most of which were buried
Jesuitas. The hospitals of Valencia in 1541 under the bridge Serranos, by
are well managed for Spain. The Oasa a priest named Juan Salaya, because
do la Misericordia, or poor-house, is a pagan. The next bridge, walking to
fine edifice. The Prcsidio or Peniten the rt., is that of La Trinidad, built in
tiary in San Agustin, and the Galera for 1356: then comes the Real, the Moor
women, are well managed and may be ish Jerea—Arabice S/uzrea, of the law
visited by visiting justices. The arms —which fell in, and Was restored by
of the city are the four bars of Cata Charles V. Crossing over was the site
lonia, with a. bat, indicative of vigi of El Real, the royal residence of the
lance, ci quien vela, todo se rcvela. viceroys, which was pulled down in
lizlerzcia. ROUTE 40.-—vALENc1A—-Er. onno. 381
the war, and the space since convened Murcia, see Routes 36. 38. The
into a pleasant plantation. The river steamers communicate with Alicante
now divides the Glorieta from the long and Cadiz. With Madrid there are
avenues of the delightful Alameda, two routes. One, that taken by the dili
whose shady overarchmgbranches con gences, runs through Almunsa. The
tinue to el Grao, the gradus, or steps second, which passes through Cuenca, is
to the sea. This agreeable drive is the nearer and by far the most interesting.
lounge of the natives, who flock here The communications with Zaragoza,
in the summer for the sea-bathing. run through Teruel and Daroca. There
Vast sums of money have been ex is and long has been some talk of a rail
pended, since IT92, in the attempt to between Valencia and Madrid. Some
make a port, the one thing wanting to Londoners in 1845 put forth a pros ec
Valencia, of this bad sandy roadstead, tus, which shows what the gullability
which is much exposed to gales from and geographical ignorance of the
the S. and the S.\V., and to the choking “ City” will swallow. “ For only
from the Turiu, but the Frenchinvasion 2,500,000l. the sea-port of Valencia was
arrested the good work. The Muellc, to be opened for Madrid, with a pop.
or mole, was to be pushed forward in of 800,000 (200,000), and the plan was
two piers, with towers and batteries at to pay 28 per cent. Apply for shares
each extremity. The tcmporada dz: los at No. 37, Moorgate-street.”
Meantime a bit of a railroad runs
1),GI7/IS is a gay period. The baths are
thatched with rice straw. The road is from Valencia to Alcira, and the na
then thronged with tartanas, which tives, Who think it almost unique,
convey all sexes to their immersion, sometimes point it out proudly to
hissing hot like horseshqes. The Grao Englishmen, and ask patronisingly,
waters are said to soften the female whether they have yet got Ferros car
heart, and to cure confirmed sterility. rilcs in England.
Here, if fame reports true, wanton An excursion should be made from
ness is concentrated under the pretence Valencia to Dania, visitingthe Albufera
of health, and many a Penelope comes lake, and returning by Alcira, where the
away a Helen. But so it was in olden rice-grounds and acequias are highly
times ifthose Spaniards, Martial xi. 80, interesting. The towns are very popu
and Seneca, Ep. 51, deserve credit. See lous; the fertility of the soil is incre
also the case of the Cinthia of that dible. It is a land of Ceres and Bacchus,
minute (Propertius i. ll, 27). Flora and Pomona, while the sea teems
Of all the rascally tribe of watermen with delicious fish. The national me
and cads, who have fish-hooks for fin thod of fishing called Las Parejas del
gers and harpoons for thumbs, those of Bolt, and often prohibited from sweep
the Grao are the most unconscionable. ing the sea, is managed by two boats
If, however, you know the tariff, they --pairs of oxen ; to each of which the
give up disputing; the proper charges ends of a deep net or Seine is attached.
are a peseta each person; two reals for
a portmanteau ; one for each smaller
package. If without luggage, the price
is two reals to land and two to be put
on board. N.B. The charges for a
tartana are 6 reals per hour. ROUTE 40.——-EXCURSION mom
Those returning to Valencia should VALENCIA.
enter by the Puertu del Jllar ; here once Cilla. . . . . . . . ..2
stood El Remedio, which, with the Sueca-..........3. 5
Cullera.........1 6
splendid sepulchres of the Moncada Gandia.........4 10
family, was destroyed during recent Denia.........3 13
reforms. ' Gandia.......-.3 16
The communications between Valen Carciflente . . . . . . . 4 20
Alcira . . . . . .-. 1 21
cia and the other provinces are nume Aljamesi........1 22
rous; for those S. with Alicante and Valencia........5. 27
382 nourn 40.—TaE ALBUFERA. Sect. V.
This celebrated lagoon, the A”)/tf8I‘G, a secure port for this portless coast, by
Arabice Alba/wr, “ the little sea, the connecting the shore with the llloro
lake,” commences near Cilia or Silla, the and other points, which nature seems
see and throne of Flora and Pomona, and to suggest, and thus ofl‘er an outlet to
extends about 3 L. N. and S., being a district which, with the Huerta Qf
about 9 L. in circumference, and from 3 Gandia, is an Eden of fertility. Gan
to 12 ft. deep. It narrows to the N., dia, Pop. 5500, with its ancient walls
separated by a strip of land from the and towers, contains a fine Palace,
sea, with which a canal, Perello, that where lived the sainted Duke F. de
can be opened and shut at pleasure, Borja, with remains of gilding, azulejos,
communicates. It is fed by the Turia and faded splendour. The geologist
and the Acequia del Rey. It fills in may ascend the Mortduber. Visit also,
winter, andis then a complete preserve near Benidoleiy (3 L.), the stalactical
of fish and wild-fowl. The fishermen cuevas under the Siguili, with curious
dwell in chozas, exposed to agues and lake in the centre caverns. Examine
mosqnitos. 70 sorts of birds breed also the marbles at Marchquera and
here in the broza, bush, and reeds; Tramus. Takealocal guide. Denia,
the small ducks and teal are delicious, Pop. 2500, is the capital of its Marque
especially the Foja. There are 2 sado, and once a good haven and well
public days of shooting, the llth and fortified, is now without port or de
25th of Nov., when many hundred fence, nor are any steps taken to set
boats of sportsmen harass the water matters right. Now, near the Torre
' fowl, which darken the air. The ole Carruz, carob-trees rear their stems,
dehesa, or strip between the lake and in the place of the masts of ships when
sea, abounds with rabbits and wood Sertorius made it his naval station
cocks, gallinctas. This lake and do (Strabo, iii. 239). Denia, with its
main, valued in 1813 at 300,000l., picturesque old fortifications, lies on,
a royal property, was granted to nay, in the sea, under the rock el Mongfi,
Suchet by Buonaparte, who created which rises about 2600 ft., command
him a French Duo by the title of Al ing the views which gave one of the
bufera, in reward for his capture of ancient names Emcroscopium, derived
Valencia. The English Duke of Wel from this peep-of-day look-out for pi
lington, at Vitoria, unsettled the con rates ; the present name is a corruption
veyance, and rendered this water of Dimimm, from a celebrated temple
Suchet another of the aqueous non to Diana of Ephesus, who now is sup
cntities of Valencia, which he had planted by_la Vz'r_(/en de los Desampa
pretty well raseii, razziaed, and Sangra rados. The Huerta is covered with
ducd, alike after his pristine barber, as vines, olives, fig and almond trees:
his later barbarous habits; t07LSOI‘ibLI»S the great traflic is in the Denias or
notum. Ferdinand VII. would have coarse Valencian raisins, used in Eng
confirmed the gift to Suchet, a de land for plum-puddings; inferior to
stroyer, although he made difiiculties those of Malaga, which are dried in
about the Soto of Granada which had the sun, these are cured, as at Smyrna,
been granted to our Duke, his deli in a lye, whence they are called lexius.
verer, to whom, strange to say, this The Mango slopes down to the Cape
very albufera was contem lated being San Antonio, and at its back 1 L. from
given, had not the Valencians, to their Denia basks the picturesque town of
shame, raised objections! Charles IV. Jabea, Pop. about 3500, which the
had made it over to the minion Godoy, lovers of Claude Vernet and Salvator
as he had also done the Soto de Rosa should visit: indeed the whole
Roma. Marina, like the coast of Amalfi, is a
Sueca, Pop. 8500, is in the heart of picture: you have a beauteous sky,
the rich rice-country, las tierras de blue broken headlands, a still deep
arr-oz. So is Cullera, Pop. 7000, built green sea, with craft built for the
on the mouth of the Jucar. Admi painter skimming over the rippling
rably placed, it might easily be made waves, and a crew dressed as if for an
Valencia. ROUTE 41 .—VALENCIA TO MURVIEDRO. 383
opera ballet; then inland are wild Rom"): 4~l.—VAL1INCIA TO
mountain gorges, mediseval turrets and lllnnvmmzo.
castles, placed exactly where the artist l,iria......--.-..4
would wish them, and rendered more Che1va....... 5
beautiful by time and ruin. There are Segorbe....... 5
lllurviedro ......... 6
many cuevas or grottos in the moun
tains, one especially called del Orgarw, On quitting Valencia we strike into
and the Cueva del Oro. the Campo de Liria, rich and healthy
The coast on rounding Cape San too, for here flourish the vine and
Antonio is broken by headlands, of olive, not the pestilence-spreading rice.
which those of San Martin, Monayra, Maniscs, where the clay for the azulejo
and the isolated rock of much botanical pottery comes from, lies to the l.
interest Hifac or Ayfac, are the most Liria is a large town: Pop. 8000,
remarkable. In the hay is Culpe, Pop. principally agricultural. This is the
1200, a small Gibraltar, distant 3 L. “ hanieau de cinq ou six feux ” which
by land from Denia; it was the site of the accurate Le Sage gave to Gil Blas
a Roman town; antiquities and mosaics as his domain. Liria was built in
are constantly discovered, and as con 1252, by Jaime I., on the site of 8
stantly neglected or destroyed. At Roman town Edeta (Lauro), destroyed
the curious Bafios de la Reyna, between in the wars of Pompey and Sertorius,
2 promontories, are the remains of a of which a portion of a reservoir yet
Roman fish-pond (consult the work of remains. Liriu gives a ducal title to
Cavanilles for botanical details). From the Duque de Alva, who represents
Oalpe to Gandia there is a wild inland the Due de Berwick. In the ‘hand
route through the hills, by 1>’enLsa, Alca some Parroquia observe the coro, pro
nall, Orba, S'a_qra, and over the ridge of perly placed round the 1»-esbiterio.
Segarria to Pego, and then crossing the The classical facade, with statues of
Bullent or Calapatar river to Oliva. St. Vincent, the Virgin, &c., is by
From Gandia the road turns olf to Tomas Esteve, 1672; in the inside
the l. over the hills, through Barig and observe a Concepcion by Espinosa,
Aygues to Alcira. 166-‘3,and the Mausoleum of the Duchess
The high road and railroad pass of Alva, by Alvarez. Ascend also to
through an “isolated” tract (Arabice the Coleyiu de San Miguel for the deli
Gesirah—lsland), round which the cious vicw of the country ; the image of
rivers Albayda, Sellent, Gabriel, and the saint over the altar-mayor was re
Requena flow into the Jucar. Wall spected by the French in 1812, and the
girt Aluira, (see p. 359), Pop. 13,000, Beatas respected by Cabrera in 1836,
and placed in a bosom of plenty. when he sacked the town. Liria is
The rich district is chiefly watered by best seen on the 29th of Sept. Michael
the Accquia del Rey, a cornucopia of mas-day attracts the peasants in their
fertility. The engineer should visit classical dresses : the Eremitorio on his
Antella (1 L.), and examine the mag mountain is also much visited. In the
nificent new azud archwork, and where neighbouring hills of San Miguel and
the canal is first fed from the Jucar. Barbara are singular marble quarries.
The parish church of Aljames, Pop. At Benisano, a village i L. below
4500, has a good Retablo, and some Liria, and near the high road, are the
pictures by Ribalta, but the best were ruins of the Moorish castle, now be
taken away by Godoy. longing to the Conde de Casal, in which
Those proceeding N. by steam Francois I. was confined until July 20,
should previously make an excursion 1525. He was landed a prisoner after
inland, while those who are going by Pavia on June 29th, and was allowed
diligence to Tarragona may ride to to remain only 2 days in Valencia.
Murviedro, and there take up the Benisauo is the Venysollo of Mons.
coach, having secured their places for Champollion Figeac’s treatise,and from
the number of days in advance. whence Francois sent an envoy with a
most humble letter to Charles V.
384 ROUTE 41.——VALENCIA TO SEGORBE. Sect. V.
An excursion should be made to the and leads W. through Oset to Andilla,
Uartaja de Portaccli, in the opposite distant about 3 L.; this hamlet of 700
hills near Olocau, and about 2 L. N.E. souls, sunk amid the mountains, has a
from Liria, and 3 L. from Valencia. very fine parish church, and some
This suppressed convent commands a noble pictures by Ribalta. The Retablo
fine view of the plain and sea, was is classical and Corinthian, and en
founded in 1272 by the bishop, Andres riched with statuary and basso relieves ,
de Albalat, and was once a museum the insides of the shutters are painted
of art. Here Alonso Cano took with the following subjects—the Visi
refuge after the death of his wife; tation of the Virgin, her Presentation,
for her imputed murder by him is Santa Ana and San Joaquin, and the
an idle calumny of the gossiping Circumcision; the outsides with—the
Palomino, unsupported by any evi Dispute with the Doctors, a Riposo,
dence; had it been true, would Phi the Birth and Marriage of the Virgin. .
lip IV. have made him a canon, or These were executed in Ribalta’s best
been his patron? He carved for the period. Ponz (iv. 194) prints some
monks a crucifix, and painted several curious details as to the erection and
pictures, now gone. This majestic prices of this fine Retablo, which is
convent was renowned for its frescoes buried in these lonely regions. I L.
and rich marbles, now it is desolate, from Andilla is Canales ; the villagers
yet the picturesque wooded mountain exist by supplying the snow, of which
situation is unchanged. The superb so much is used in Valencia, from the
aqueduct is of the time of the Catholic Bellida hill. Returning to Alcublas,
sovereigns. The wine, “vino rancio,” about half way in the hills is La Oueva
is excellent. From Liria to C/ielva the V, Santa, or a deep cave, in which is a
direct road is through La Llosa. It is sanctuary of the Virgin. The chapel
better to turn ofi‘ to the l. and visit is below, the rock forming the roof,
Chestalgar, near the Turia, where are and you descend by a staircase. This
some remains of a Moorish aqueduct. holy grotto is visited on the 8th of
All this district, up to 1609, was inha Sept. by the peasantry from far and
bited by industrious Moriscos. At near.
C/zalilla, famous for apricots, is the ex Scgorbc, which is considered to have
traordinary Salto, or leap: the Turia been the Segobriga Edetanorum, con
has cut its way through perpendicular tains about 6000 souls, and rises in its
walls of mountains (see particularly valley above the Palancia, surrounded
the peninsula of rocks at La Panto). by gardens, which, under a beneficial
C/zuliila was the scene of much “ little climate and copious irrigation, are
war” during the Carlists struggle. incredibly fertile. The view from the
Re-entering the Campo, and keeping rocky pinnacle above the town is
the Turia on the 1., is O/zelva, a rich charming. Segorbe was taken from
village; Pop. 4500. In the Rambla ale the Moors by Don Jaime in 1245.
los Arcos is a fine Roman aqueduct: There is a history of the cathedral,
the arches which span the defile are anti;/iledadcs, &c., by Francisco de Vil
rare bits for the artist. One portion is lagrasa, 4to., Valencia, 1664. The
injured, the other nearly perfect. The edifice is not remarkable, but has a
Campo de C/zclva is most fertile; the Ifctablo of the Joanes school and a good
“ Pico ” hill, distant l L., is singular. cloister. Parts of the ancient castle
From Chelva it is better to retrace and walls were taken down to build
the route to La Llos/1, and thence to the Casa de Jllisericortlia. The limpid
El Villar del Arzobispo, for the circuit Faente dc la Esperanza, near the Gero
by Alpuente and Yesa is tedious; then I nomite convent, gushes at once a river
strike into the Lacolus hills, famous‘ from the rock; the water has a petri
for rich marbles: a cross-road of 5 fying power. San Martin dalas Monjas
mountain leagues leads to Scgorbe. At has a Doric facade ; inside is the tomb
Alcublas, 2} L.,which is in the heart of of the founder, Pedro de Casanova;
the rugged country, the road branches inquire for the fine Ribalta, the Descent
Valencia. noun: 41. MURVIEDRO. 385
of Christ into Hades. In the Seminvriu in the modern houses ; so true is'the
is the tomb of the founder, Pedro Mi- lament of Argens0la:—
ralles; his efligy kneels on a sarco “ Con marmoles de nobles imcripcionet
phagus, on which some of the events of Teatro un tiempo _u aras, en Sugumo
l1is life are sculptured. Remains of Fabrican hay tubernas y 1nes0'nes."
Roman walls and cisterns are pre The name Murviedro (Murbiter of
served, and some Doric pillars are let the Moors) is derived from these Mm-i
into the house of the D. of Medinaceli. veteres, Mums viejos; the la vitja of
Near the town is the suppressed Car Spaniards, the waknm of Greeks, the
thusian convent of Val (la Crista, with citta 1:et-chiu of Italy— Old Sarum. So
its picturesque paper-mills. Unresist the Italian names Viterbo, Orvieto,
ing and unwarlike Segorbe was taken Cervetri ; and others represent the Urbs
and sacked by Suchet, and again taken vetus,Vetus urbs, Ceres vetus, &c. Frag
by Cabrera in 1835, who had only ments of the once famous red pottery
440 men l are found, the Calices Saguntini, Mart.
For the high road to Zaragoza, xiv. 108, on which the Conde de Lu
through Xerica, Teruel, and Daroca, miares wrote an 8vo., Burros Saguntinos,
see Index of vol. ii. Val 1772. Many coins are dug up
.W[arvicdr0, with a poor posuda, lies here; indeed, the mint of Saguntum
on the Palancia. The long lines of struck 27 specimens (Florez, ‘ M.’ ii.
walls and towers crown the height, 560). The modern town, straggling
which rises above the site of Sllgllntllm, and miserable, contains about 5000
founded, 1384 years before Christ, by inhabitants, agriculturists, and wine
the Greeks of Zacynthus (Zante) makers. The great temple of Diana
(Strabo, iii. 240), and one of the few stood where the convent of La Tri
emporise the jealous Phoenicians ever nidad now does. Here are let in some
permitted their dreaded rivals to esta 6 Roman inscriptions relating to the
blish on the Peninsular coasts. It was families of Sergia and others. At the
formerly a seaport, but now the fickle back is a water-course, with portions
waters have retired more than a league. of the walls of the Circus Maximus.
No Iberian city has been more de In the suburb San Salvador a mosaic
scribed in history. Being the frontier pavement of Bacchus was discovered
town, allied to Rome, and-extremely 111 1745, and soon after was let go to
rich, it was hated by Hannibal, who ruin. The famous theatre, placed on
attacked it. The obstinacy and horrors the slope above the town, to which the
of the defence rivalled Numantia. orchestra is turned, was much used up
Sil. Italicus (i. 271) gives the sad de by Suchet to strengthen the castle,
tails. The town perished, said Florus whose long lines of wall and tower rise
(ii. 6, 3\, a great but mournful monu grandly above; the general form of
ment of fidelity to Rome, and of the theatre is, however, easily to be
Ro1ne’s neglect of an ally in the hour made out. The Roman architect took
of need; Saguntum was revenged, as advantage of the rising ground for his
its capture led to the second Punic upper seats. It looks N.E. in order to
war, and ultimately to the expulsion secure shade to the spectators, who
from Spain of the (jarthaginian. It was thus, seated in balcones de sombra, as at
taken in 535 n.c. See also Pliny, iii. 3; a modern bull-fight, must, like those
and read on the site itself Livy, xxi. 7. in the Greek theatre at Taorminia, in
Saguntum, rebuilt by the Romans, Sicily, have enjoyed at the same time
became a municipiutn, and fell with a spectacle of nature and of art. The
the empire, the remains having been local arrangements, such as are com
ever since used by Goth, Moor, and mon to Roman theatres, resemble those
Spaniard, as a quarry above ground. of Merida, and have been measured
As with Italica, mayors and monks and described by Dean Marti; Ponz,
have converted the shattered marbles iv. 232; in the Esp. Su_q., viii. l5l.
to their base purposes. Mutilated There is also a Latin and Spanish letter
fragments are here and there imbedded in 4to. Val. 1711, to Josef Ortiz, dean
Spain.--I. s
386 ROUTE 42.—VALENCIA T0 TARRAGONA. Sect. V.
of Xativa; and a Disertucion, by En was the result. The castle is now
rique Palos y Navarro, 4to. Val. 1807. sadly dilapidated, fine new names in
Ascending to the castle, near the en deed are given to bastious, &c., but
trance are some buttresses and massy everything real is wanting.
masonry, said to be remains of the old There are two means of getting to
Saguntine castle. The present is alto Tarragona and Catalonia—one by the
gether Moorish, and girdles the irre steamer whi'eh sails to Barcelona, ar
gular eminences. The citadel, with riving in about 24 h.: the other by
the towers San Fernando and San the diligence. The Ebro divides the
Pedro, is placed at the extreme height, provinces of Valencia and Catalonia;
and probably occupies the site of the those going to Zaragoza by Tortosa will
Saguntine keep described by Livy stop at Amposta, and then proceed by
(xxi. 7). Suchet stormed the fortress Rte. 43.
from this side. The castle is ram
bling and extensive, with some Moorish
cisterns, built on the supposed site of Ronrn 4Z.——VALENCIA T0
a Roman temple. There is a remark TARBAGONA.
able echo, and a few fragments of Albalat. . . . . . . . . 2
sculpture neglected as usual by the Murviedro . . . . . . . 2 .. 4
inzesthetic governors, and mutilated by Almenara . . . . . . . 11} .. 54'
Suchet’s soldiers. The views on all Nules . . . . . . . . . It .. 7
Villa Real . . . . . . . 2 .. 9
sides around are very extensive, es Castellon de la Plana . . 1 __ 10
pecially looking towards Valencia from Oropcsa . . . . . . . . 3 . 13
the govern0r’s garden. This fortress Torreblanca . . . . . . . 2 . 15
is the key of Valencia, which never can Benicarlo . . . . . . . . 3 . 18
Vinaréz . . . . . . . . I . 19
safely be attacked from this side while Amposta . . . . . . . . 4% . 23f
it remains untaken; yet, although Perellé . . . . . . . . . 4 .. 27}
ample time and warning of coming Hospitalet. . . . . . . . 3*} .. 31
Cumbrils . . . . . . . . 2% .. 33%
calamities were given, neither Blake Tarragona . . . . . . . . 3 36}
nor the Valeucian junta took any steps
to render it tenable; but the gallant This, the regular diligence-road,
governor, Luis Andriani, everywhere coasts along the Mediterranean, and is
repulsed the French, and as Suchet’s not particularly interesting, excepting
only chance was the winning a deci at Tarragona and its vicinity ; the coach
sive battle, a Fabian defensive policy, from Valencia reaches Barcelona in
on the part of the Spaniards, must have about 40 h.
caused him to retreat, and if Blake On leaving Valencia to the rt., amid
had only done nothing, Valencia was its palms and cypresses, is the once
saved; but he was determined, like celebrated Geronomite convent San
Areizaga at Ocana, to “lose another Miguel de los Reyes, formerly the Es
kingdom by the insatiable desire of corial of Valencia. It was built (the
fighting pitched battles with undis ruins of Saguntum serving as 8
ciplined troops, led by inexperienced quarry!) in 1544 by Vidaiia and
oflicers.” (Disp. Nov. 27, 1811.) Ac Alonso dc Covarrubias for Don Fer
cordingly, he marched from Valencia nando, Duke of Calabria. This ill
with 25,000 men, and attacked Suchet, fated heir to the throne of Naples
who had less than 20,000, in the plain, surrendered to the Great Captain, re
Oct. 25, 1811. Kefore the battle he lying on his word of honour, and was
made every disposition to ensure its perfidiously imprisoned for 10 years
loss, and, in a very short time after it at Xativa by Ferdinand the Catholic.
began, fled with his whole army under Released by Charles V., and ap
the very eyes of the garrison, who pointed Viceroy of Valencia, he raised
caught the infection and capitulated this convent for his burial-place; the
that very night—unworthy children of efligies of the founder and his wife
Saguntine ancestors, and forgetful of were placed at each side of the high
the religio loci. The loss of Valencia altar. The marbles and cloisters were
l 'alencz'a. noun: 42.—BURJASOT—NULl-LS. 387
superb. All was sacked by Suchet, I of 4bisboprics—viz. Tortosa, Mayorca,
who burnt the precious library, while Valencia, and Segorbe.
Sebastiani bought the lands for less The good road continues winding
than one-fourth of the value, and even through hills, amid vines, cnrob-trees,
this he did not pay. A trial took place and aromatic shrubs, to Nules, a town
in Paris in 1843 between him and the of 2500 souls, fortified with towers and
heirs of one Crochart, a French pay walls, with regular streets and gates.
master, who speculated in these joint Villa Real was built by Jaime I. as a
investments. The curious evidence “ royal villa” for his children. The
lifted up a corner of curtain, and re octagon tower ofthe tasteless Purroquia
vealed how these things were managed is remarkable. After crossing the Mil
under the empire. And next to Soult lares by a noble bridge, built in 1790,
and Sebastiani this gentleman was one we reach Castellon do la Plano, of “the
of the chief “collectors” of Spanish plain," so called because Jaime I., in
art, with small reference to picture 1233, removed the town from the old
pay-ing. Now everything is going to Moorish position, which was on a ris
the dogs, and the conversion of the ing .} a L. to the N. Inn, decent,
ex~convent into a cigar manufactory, Purador del Leon. This flourishing
is prayed for as a salvation. place, in a garden of plenty, is fed by
To the l. is Burjasot, built on a slope an admirable acequia, and very unin
amid its gardens. and the favourite teresting. Pop. 15,000. Here Ribalta
country resort of the Valenciansa on was born in 1551. The churches
the way to the hermitage San Roque are and convents once contained some
41 curious enclosed Moorish 7’nctzm0r7'as, of his finest works. There is some
or caves, excavated in the rock, for talk about a provincial Museo. In
preserving corn. Here they are called the Sangrc, a church disfigured by
siches, in Spanish scilos. These old modern stucco, some ofthese paintings
crypts resemble those on the Martires were abandoned to dust and decay.
at Granada-—the Sicilian Silt‘ (see p. 'Dhe Sepztlcro is so called from a tomb
315). The esplanade on which they at the high altar which was sculptured
are placed commands a charming by angels. In the Ill0d€‘I‘lllSr(l Parro
view of Valencia: the figs are excel quia, which has a good Gothic portal
lent; the plants, transported to Mar and tower, is a “ Purgatory ” by Ri
seilles and Genoa, denote their parent balta. The Torre de las Campanas is
age in the names Bougasotes and an octagon, 260 feet high, and built in
Brogiotti. It was here that the troops 1591-11.04. These towers or belfries
of Cabrera, March 29, 1837, wound are very common in Arragon and Ca
up a banquet with the feu d’art1ficc’ of talonia, to which we are approaching;
shooting their prisoners-— Cosas de indeed, the towns, peasants, and pro
Ilspmia. Passing Albalat, Pufg lies to ducts along this route are very like
the rt. near the sea; here Jaime I. in one another. This place may be made
1237 routed the Moorish king Zaen, the head-quarters of the naturalist, who
and in consequence captured Valencia. hence can make excursions to the hilly
We now approach the sites of one of group,Las Santos, to Pefia Golosa, the
the worst of Blake's multifarious dis highest knoll, and the nucleus of the
graces, by which the Spaniards lost this chain, and to Espadan, where mines of
capital or. the same field where it was copper, cinnabar, lead, &c., abound.
won by their better-led ancestors. The chief mineral baths are at Villa
Crossing the Palancia, and leaving creja (3 L. from Nules). There is a
Murviedro, under the spurs of the statistical Illemoria of Castellon de la
Sierra de Espadun is Almenara, Arabice Plano, by Santillan, 1843. The district
the lantern, the pharos, or -place of was much impoverished during the
light, with its ruined castle on a triple Carlist civil war.
pointed hill, on which once stood the The lover of rustic fétes should at
temple of Diana, to which the sea for tend, the 3rd Sunday in Lent, the
merly reached. A stone pyramid, with pilgrimage to S"' M“' Madalena, on a
4 coats of arms, marks the jurisdiction hill l L. E.; a grand procession is
S 2
388 ROUTE 42.——I‘ENlSCOI.A——BENICARLO—VlNAR(ll. Sect. V.
made to the site of the old town. A II. in 1578 by his Italian engineer
1’01*rate’ or Fair is then and there held at Antonelli. It was scandalously be
noon, and Gayates, illuminated cy trayed to the French in Feb. 1810.
presses, carried at night. The whole is One Pedro Garcia Navarro was ap
very Pagan and picturesque. The Ec pointed governor by Blake, because
clt-siologist may visit the CILGUCI Santa, anti-English! with whom Suchet
near the Alcublas; the Carthusian opened a correspondence and bought
I211! de Crista, near Altura, and the the fortress, as Soult purchased Bada
Ber’:-zdine convent at Benifasd, built in joz of the scoundrel governor Imaz:
1233 by Jaime 1., and where Cabrera this Navarro was then made a member
spent the summer of I834. of the French Legion of Honour! All
The road now passes the aromatic this is blinked by Madoz, xii. 795.
spurs of the Pefm Golosu hills, emerg Benicarlo, Pop. 6000, is a walled
ing near Cabanas (3 L.), in its pesti town, with a ruined castle and a sort
ferous undrained marshes. Near Ora of fishing-port called el gmo, but is
posit, whose fine castle was dismantled miserable amid plenty; being a resi
by the French, are the remains of a dence of poor agriculturists, the streets
Roman arch. Traversing the plains are like farm-yards. The ch. has its
of Torreblanca, we reach Alcald de octangular tower. This district is re
Gisbert, a tortuous town with a fine nowned for red and full-flavoured
Parroquia, which has n classical portal wines, which are exported by Cctte
and a good belfry of masonry, erected and the Languedoc canal to Bordeaux
in 1792. On emerging from a gorge to enrich poor clarets for the English
of hills, the promontory of Pefiiscola, market: the liquor, when new, is as
with its square castle on the top, ap thick as ink, and deserves its familiar
pears to the rt., looking like an island appellation, “ black strap ;” it is much
or a peninsula. used to concoct what the trade call
Pefiiscola, Peninsula (Pop. 1500), is curious old port. Much bad brandy is
a miniature Gibraltar; it rises out of also made, and sent to Cadiz to doctor
the sea, inaccessible by water, about up worse sherry. During the vintage
240 ft. high. It is connected with the mud ofthese towns is absolutely red
the land by a narrow strip of sand, with grape-husks, and the legs of the
which sometimes is covered by the population dyed from treading the vats.
waves. It surrendered to Jaime I., Nothing can be more dirty, classical,
who ceded it to the Templars, a por and unscientific than the modus ope
tion of whose church yet remains. At ru-ndf. The toruular, or press, is rudely
their dissolution it was given to the classical; the filth and negligence
order of Montesa. Here Pope Luna, boundless; but everything is trusted to
Benedict XlII., took refuge after he the refining process of Nature's fer
was declaredschismatic by the Council mentation, for “there is a divinity
of Constance, and from Dec. l, 1415, that shapes our ends, rough-hew them
to Jan. 29, l-L23, surrounded by his how we will." The town was much
petty conclave of 4 cardinals, fulmi battered by Cabrera, who took it in
nated furious bulls against his enemies. lB38. ,
His tower, La Turreta, was destroyed Vz'nar6=.'.- Parador, inn. This busy
by the French bombardment, with old seaport on theCervol has crumbling
much of the town, which has never re walls and an amphibious population of
covered. Pc1'Z1'sculu is supplied with a some 8500 souls, half-peasant half
fountain of fresh water, the one thing sailor. The sturgeon and lampreys are
wanting to Gibraltar. There is a sin excellent. In the Palacio here the Due
gular aperture in a rock, through de Vendome, the descendant of Henry
which the sea boils up ; which is still IV., and a caricature of his virtues
called El Bufudor del Papa. Peiiiscola and vices, died of gorging the rich fish
is a miserable place. It is a plaza de —a death worthy of a man whose
urums. Wanting in everything the habits were only fit for the pen of a
rock is girdled with battlements, and St. Simon or a Swift. Philip V. re
all was much strengthened for Philip moved to the Escorial the body of
Valencia. noun: 42.—MORELLA——SAN c.uu.0s. 389
Vendome,to whom he owed his throne; | every 6th year, the first Saturday in
and Villa Viciosa in some degree re May, is fanatically picturesque.
deemed the crushing defeat which Leaving Vimu-oz, and crossing the
Vendome had received from Marlbo» Cenia by a fine bridge built by Charles
rough at Oudenarde. The bay is open IV., Catalonia is entered, as the harsh
and unsafe; the palms are Oriental; dialect and red woollen caps announce.
and the Chal/lpus tmly picturesque This is the district of the “truces
Mediterranean craft. Iberi,” the most ferocious of ancient
Mo:-ella (Castra/Elia) the winter quar Spaniards: nor are they much changed;
ters of Sertorius), lies 9.1; L. to the W. the dangerous road to Amposta is in
of Vinaroz, through La Jana 35- L. It famous in robber-story. The traveller
is the hilly capital of its hilly partido, will pass the 2 rude stone crosses
and, being on the frontier of Arragou where, Oct. 30, 1826, the murder was
and Valencia, becomes an important committed of which the “ Young Ame
fortress in war-time; indeed, at all rican,” Mr. Slidell—the Commodore
times the intricate broken metal and Mackenzie of the brig Somers, and
mineral-pregnant .Muestras_q0 is a fa mutiny execution— gave such a true
vourite lair for fucciosos of all kinds. and affecting account. The poor lad
Here the climate and vegetation are no was named Ventura Ferran, and was
longer those ofthe warm plains, and the killed with 28 stabs, “ each a death to
people are wild, rude peasants. .M01‘cllu nature.” Carlos Nara, the Mayoral,
is a scrambling half-ruined city of 5000 had his brains beaten out with a stone :
souls, with steep streets, picturesque the culprits were 3 vile Rateros or
ravines, and Moorish walls and towers; footpads.
it rises up in tiers to the point of the Sun Carlos de la Rzibita was built by
hill, which is coroneted by its rock Charles ill. The road continues to
built castle, apparently impregnable, in coast the beach, with carob-planted
which the Moorish tower do Zeloquia hills to the 1., and the Salinas, or port
still remains, although much knocked de los A/flqtw-S‘, to the rt. These are
about in the civil_wars. Morella has a the “ chops ” of the Ebro, A1-takk
noble aqueduct. The quire in the Iglesiu Arabicé, a jaw. A much-wanted canal
Mayor, built in 1317, is singular, being is destined to connect the river with the
raised on arches and pillars ; thus the sea, for its natural mouth is dangerous,
general view is not cut up; the clergy from a long reef and sand-bank. A
ascend by a curious staircase which fine road leads to Amposta, amiserable,
winds round a column. A picture of aguish, fever and mosquito-plagued
Jaime ofi"ering a bit of the true cross, is port on the Ebro, with some 1000 sal
here attributed to Ribalta. The inte low souls. The Ebro, which eats its
rior effect has been injured by raising turbid way through these levels, is the
the pavement, and the churrigueresque largest of the rivers which flow east
altar mayor. This strong town sur ward in the Peninsula. It rises in the
rendered toSuchet after the fall of Me valley of Reinosa, meanders in a tortu
quinenza, without even the shadow ous direction through the basin be
of a defence. Morella was the chief tween the Pyreneau and ldubedau
hold of Cabrera, who scaled the castle chains, and disembogues by many
by ropes furnished by apartisan within, mouths into the Mediterranean, after
on the night of 25th Jan. 1838, and a course of some 123 L., and fed by 150
here afterwards twice beat back the tributaries. A communication with
Christinos under Oroa and Pardinas, the Atlantic by means of a canal has
and was made Conde de Morella in been contemplated between this river
consequence. It was taken in 1840 by and the Duero. The Ebro is the I/he
Espartero, a magazine having blown I/M4“, the lberus, Hiberus of the an
up accidentally, i. e. a matter of course cients, a name in which Spaniards,
almost in Oriental and Spanish citadels. who like to trace their pedigree to
The Morellians have a Valencian love Noah,read that of their founder Heber.
for religious melodrames and proces Bochart considers the word to signify
sions; that to the Virgen de Vallivcna, “ the boundary,” Ibra, just as it is used
390 non rs 42 .—-HOSPI I‘ALET—CAMBRILS——TA.RRAG ONA. Sect. V.
in the sense of the “other side" in meals, maid-servants, with flags made
Genesis xiv. 13; and this river was, of the palmito, or with fans painted
in fact, long the boundary; first, be with flowers and silvered handles,
tween the Celts and Iberians, and then drive away the flies. These are the
between Romans and Carthaginians. classical 1n-1scaria—-the original fan,
Others contend that this river gave the and are described by Martial (xiv. 67),
name to the district, Iberizz: Iber, Aber, and such are the Mamisheh of the
Hebro, Havre-signifying in Celtic Arabs.
“ water.” Thus the Celt-Iber would Approaching Perelld, the unculti
be, the Celt of the River. Humboldt, vated plains are covered with aromatic
however, whose critical etymology is herbs; after which a gentle ascent
generally correct, considers all this to leads to the gorge, or “ Coll de Bala
he fanciful, and is of opinion that the guer," a notorious robber lair. The
aboriginals gave this primitive name Barranco de la Hurca, the “ ravine of
to the river. It formed, in the early the gibbet,” connects the vocation with
and uncertain Roman geography,the di its end. Above, on an eminence, is a
visional line ofSpain, which was parted hefmitage dedicated to Nuestra Senora
by it into Citerior and Ulterior; when de la Aurora: the view is charming.
the Carthaginians were finally sub Fort San Felipe, the key of the gorge,
dued, this apportionment was changed. was taken from the French by some
As‘ it is the good fortune of most English sailors, June 7, 181-'3. The
foreign rivers to be made navigable by locality,landand sea, is highly Salvator
British skill and enterprise,whose steam Rosa-like, until the road emerges into
first civilised the Seine, the Rhine, and a cultivated plain. Hospitalet, so called
the Danube, so no end of schemes are in because founded by an Arragonese
the air to render the Ebro navigable prince for the reception of way-worn
with English capital and workmen. pilgrims, is strengthened with a square
It was surveyed in May, 1846, by and machicolated tower. Now the
Messrs. Donkin and Pope, With a view vineyards recommence, and continue
ofiinproving its navigation, &c. They to fringe the coast for 30 L. The red
built a boat at Logrofio, which, when wines arc strong, the muscadels deli
launched, astonished the natives as cious, the brandy true aguadiente,
much as the barco 1'/Lcuntado of Don ardiente, 1'. e., fiery : during the time of
Quixote did in the same place. the slovenly vintage, all these villages
There is some talk of the road from are redolent with wine, and stained
Valencia to Barcelona being carried with the blood of the grape. Cumb/'ils
round by Tortosa ; thus the dangerous is a vinous town, Pop. 2000; here the
and often difficult ferry of Amposta palm and aloe flourish. It was sacked
would be avoided. Meantime nothing in 1711 by the troops of Philip V.,
is done; the coast, in spite of ship under the cruel Marquis de los Velez.
wrecks, has no lighthouse; the road to Approaching Villa Seca, the busy town
Tortosa (2 L.) is almost impracticable; of Reus sparkles to the l., while, in
and the canal to Alfuques, although front, Tarragona lords it over its fertile
begun by Charles lII., is not yet campo,—seated on a rock-built emi
finished. After crossing the Ebro the nence, with tiers of wall and bastion
road continues over a mosquito-infested rising one above another, while the
plain. Tortosa is soon seen to the l., cathedral seems the donjon-keep of
and the sea is approached amid gorges the imposing outline. The shipping
of rocky hills. The coast and villages come close under the not over-safe
are defended_ against sea-pirates by mole to the rt.; while the aqueduct
towers. The costume of the women connects the mass with the Fuerle del
changes: many protect their arms from Olit-o on the other side. Passing the
the plague of flies by a sort of mitten, Francoli, either through it or over a
or rather a Valencian stocking without. narrow Moorish-looking bridge, Tar
feet. Their earringsure truly Moorish, ragona is entered by the modern gate
and so heavy that they are suspended of San Carlos. There is a tolerable
by a thread round the ear: during I Meson in the Calle de San Carlos.
Catalonia. ( 391 )

SECTION VI. I

CATALONIA.

CONTENTS.

The Principality; Character of the Country and Natives, their Commerce


and Smuggling; History; and best Authors to consult.
Page I Page
ROUTE 43.—AMPOS'l‘A T0 macs 396 ROUTE 48-—URGEL T0 TARASCON 429
Tortosa ; Mequinenza. l
ROUTE 49.—URGI-IL T0 BONAIGUA 430
ll
ROUTE 44.-—TORTOSA T0 TARRA~
coNA...................... 399 l R°UTE50"_'URGELT°Gm°s"" 430
Ripoll; Vich.
rnanacosn 400 ROUTE 5L_BmcEwNA To PER_
Reusund Poblet............. 405 l PIIEAN 43]
noon: 45.-—TARRAGONA T0 n.\n- ‘ Hostalrich.
canons 4O6lRoU,1.E 52__B_,mCELoNA To GE_
A'b°S3O'd“l' norm.........'............432
BARCELONA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408 f Mmré; Gererm; Le BiBt>M
1\ou'r|~: 4(i.—BARCELONA T0 nn- l ‘mun? 53'_°ER°N‘ To ST‘ LAW
GEL-............-.....-..-418; KEPT""""“"""""°435
Monsemit; Mnuresa; Curdona; Urgel. ‘ noun-: 54.—o1-moss T0 Psariinx 436
noun: 47.—nnonr. T0 MONTLUIS 428 F‘g“em'
Puigccrdti. i noon-1 55.—FIGUERA.S T0 noses . 438

The most interesting Routes are 46, and those in the Pyrenees. The Springs and Aulumns
are delicious on the coast; but the mountain districts should only be vlsi ted in Summer. Barce
lona and still more Valencia are excellent winter-quarters for invnlids.

._i¢i-.

THE principality of Catalonia—Cutahuia, Gothalimia-constitutes the north


eastern corner of the Peninsula: in form triangular, with the Mediterranean
Sea for the base, it is bounded to the N. by the Pyrenees, W. by Arragon, S.
by Valencia. It contains about 1000 square L., and a population exceeding a
million, and increasing. The sea-board extends about 68 L. The coast, after
the bay of Rosas, opens to tho S., but is destitute of good harbours. This is a
province of mountains and plains. The former to the N.W. are covered with
snow, the lesser hills with wood, the valleys with verdure, and each is watered
by its rivulct. This barrier between Spain and France is intersected by pic
turesque and tangled tracts, known to the smuggler. One high road by Gerona
passes into France: the only others run to Zaragoza and Valencia. A new
Carretem is contemplated from Barcelona to Madrid, by Mora de Ebro and
Molina de Aragon, by which a distance of 100 miles will be saved. There is
much talk of railroads—the thing wanting to this country. Catalonia is the
392 CA'I‘ALO.\'IA-—CHARAC1‘ER or THE cowrnr. Sect. VI.
Lancashire of Spain, and Barcelona is its Manchester. Besides being wholesale
manufacturers, the Catalans are amongst the best retail tradesmen, innkeepers,
and carriers of the Peninsula, indeed, “ Vamos al Catalan” is equivalent in
many places to going to a shop. The transport of bales has raised up a tribe
of Ctleseras, dtrreteros, and Arrieros, as well as of Ventcros, at whose taverns
they put up: long habits of traffic have accustomed them to the road, its
wants and accommodations. The diligence system of Spain commenced here.
The principal rivers empty themselves into the Mediterranean, the Fluvia
near Figueras, the Ter near Gerona, the Llobregat near Barcelona, and the
Francoli, near Tarragona, but the Ebro is the grand natural aorta, how
ever little use has been made of it. The Cenia divides this province from
Valencia and the tierra G-'llt'€72f6, or the hot zone, which extends to the S.E.
from Andalucia. The climate and productions now vary according to the
elevations: the hills are cold and temperate, the maritime strips warm and
sunny; hence the botanical range is very great; but whether climate or soil
be favourable or not, the industry and labour of the Catalan surmounts most
difficulties, and the terraced rocks are forced to yield food, de las pirrlras saean
pmes, while in the valleys, by patience, the mulberry-leaf becomes satin. The
Catalans are the richest of Spaniards, because they work and produce the most.
The Tarragona district, as in the days of Pliny, furnishes wines, which, when
rancios, or matured by age, are excellent; the best are those of Benicm-I6,
and the delicious sweet malvoisies of Sitges. Nuts, commonly called Barce
lona nuts, are also a great staple. The algur/-ob 1, or carob-pod, is the usual
food for animals, and -sometimes for men. The cereal productions which,
except near Urgel, are deficient, are supplied, together with cattle, from
Arragon. The abundance of sea-fish, however, compensates; and this pursuit
renders the Catalans some of the best sailors of Spain. The principality
abounds in barrilla, especially near 'I‘ortosa. The geology of Catalonia, ac
cording to Mr. Pratt, is characterised by a series of ridges running N.E. and
S.W., parallel with the coast. Towards the N.E. they are interfered with by
intrusive rocks ofgranite, porphyry, and lava, and frequently disturbed at other
parts of their course. The oldest sedimentary rocks are chiastolite schists,
resting on granite. _ On these repose mountain limestone, with associated coal
beds, and red marly sandstone, with rock-salt. Limestone with oolitic fossils,
near Figueras, is associated with the above rocks, and in a district that has been
laid down as cretaceous, on the maps of the French geologists. The tertiary
rocks are of great extent and interest. Ridges formed of hills of nummulitic
rocks occur at Gerona, Vich, Caldas, and Villa Franca, respectively. Mio
cene tertiary deposits are found near Barcelona; whilst Rosas, Villa Nueva,
Manresa, Solsona, and Urgel are situated on tracts of younger tertiaries. Mar~
bles and minerals are found in the mountains, with jaspers and alabasters,
and the finest at Tortosa and Cervera. Iron is plentiful in the Pyrenees, and
coal at Ripoll and Tortosa. The salt-mountain of Cardona is quite unique.
There are eight cathedral towns, of which Tarragona, the metropolitan, and
Barcelona, are the most interesting. Commercial Catalonia has never pro
duced much art or literature. Among the objects best worth seeing are the
Pyrenees, the salt-mines of Cardona, the convent of Montserrat, and the town
and antiquities .of Tarragona. The ecclesiastical architecture partakes more
of the Norman Gothic than is usual in Spain.
The Catalans are neither French nor Spaniards, but a distinct people, both
in language, costume, and habits; indeed, their roughness and activity are
enough to convince the traveller that he is no longer in high-bred, indolent Spain.
Your republican who thinks rudeness a proof of equality and independence,
inspires every well-bred gentleman with a desire to have as little to do with
him as possible. Children of the Celtiberian, they sigh after their former
independence, their patriotism is most “ parochial " and local. Catalonia, with
C'atal0m'a.~ comrnncn AXD SMUGGLIXG. 39.}
its Cleons in calico, and Catalines in cotton, is the strength and weakness of
Spain; and no province of the unamalgamating bundle which forms the con-*
ventional monarchy de lus 1§sptu'rus hangs more loosely to the crown than this
classical country of revolt, which is ever ready to fly ofi". Rebellious and re
publicans, well may the natives wear the blood-coloured red cap of the much
prostituted name of Liberty! Their murders of prisoners during the civil wars
were frightful. The Putulea, or plebs, wore gridirons b. la San Lorenzo, and
cried, Madrdos d lapoela! Moderates, to the frying-pan ! Others, to show their
Voltairian progress, dragged images of Christ about, with ropes on the neck:
Catalonia, the perpetual governmental difliculty, is the spoiled child of the Penin
sular family, to which, although the most wayward and unruly, the rest of the
brood are sacrificed. Taken by themselves the Catalonians are frugal, indus
trious, honest, and rough diamonds. Powerfully constituted physically, strong,
sinewy, and active, patient under fatigue and privation, brave, daring and
obstinate, and preferring to die rather than to yield, they form the raw
material of excellent soldiers and sailors, and have, when well commanded,
proved their valour and intelligence by sea and land. The Catalonians,
under the Arragonese kings, during the 13th century, took a great lead in
maritime conquest and jurisprudence, nor was trade ever thought here to
be a degradation, until the province was annexed to the proud Castiles,
when the first heavy blow was dealt to its prosperity. Then ensued the con
stant insurrections, wars, and military occupations, which crushed peace-loving
commerce. To these succeeded the French invasion, and the loss of the S.
American colonies. The former export trade has consequently dwindled down,
with the exception of Cuba, to the home market, and even there it is met hy
the competition with France and En land. Meantime, Catalonia is to Fiance
what Gibraltar is to England, the inlet of contraband goods: “everybody
smuggles here,” which no government, although perfectly aware of the fact,
has been able or has dared to prevent. The plea of “ protectin the nascent
industry,”——“ encouraging infant manufactures of the country, ’—is a farce ;
the manufactures of Catalonia are very much the blind by which prohibited
goods are clandestinely introduced. This Atlas, which pretends to carry all
the cotton of Spain on its back, cannot supply wares for one-third of the
national consumption. If the number of spindles alleged to exist in this
province were true, Spain ought to consume more than double the raw cotton
that she really does. In spite of this, their writers swagger about the “ fear
and jealousy!” evinced by envious foreigners! at the vigour infused in 1832
to Catalan cotton-spinning by one Bonaplata, a Bonaparte in calico (Madoz, i.
458). Yet comparatively the home manufacturer sluggardises protected by
monopoly, and while the smuggler grows rich the treasury gets poorer.
Be that as it may, our trade with Barcelona, the commercial capital
of Spain, once extensive, now scarcely exists beyond sending coal and
machinery, for the ,French have completely ousted us; indeed, many
Catalans are not much more than agents for the smuggling French goods,
which are frequently introduced with counterfeit marks, and as if of Spanish
manufacture Once abolish the prohibitory system, and both these in
terests would fall to the ground; once open the trade, and give a fair stage
and no favour, then England, with her cheaper and better wares, must
get the lion’s share: hence these powerful, rich, active, and well-organised
interests oppose every mention of commercial treaties or alterations of taritfs.
A Gallo-Catalan conspiracy bribes the government commissioners, tampers
with their reports, purchases the venal press, and, if all that fails, threatens, as
anultim./1 ratio, a rebellion. The whole Peninsula sufiers, and is pauperised
and demoralised from these intrigues; for a sensible commercial tariff is
the only remedy which might drag this ill-fated country from her financial
slough of despond. Such a change would infinitely more benefit Spain than
S 3
394 CA'l‘ALONLA——HISTORY. Sect. VI.
England: and yet the monopolist opponents re-echo the old story, old as the
time of Philip IV., that the “golden trade” of Spain is of i-ital importance to
England! and that the forming a commercial treaty is pressed_oii Spain by
our government, to save our people from absolute starvation! This nonsense—
taken for gospel in Spain—is disseminated by legions of French commis roya
geurs, gentlemen who hate razors, truth, and soap, and who now invade Spain; for
to France this commerce is indeed of vital importance - but England that “ na
tion of shopkeepers " forsooth, sends no travellers for commissions: bribes no
newspapers,-nay, it would seem as if Spain’s beggarly custom were beneath the
notice of our princely merchants._ Commerce and freedom, which usually
enlighten mankind, have never extinguished Catalan superstition; thus Barce
lona alone ietc.
oratories, in 1788 contained
(Poiiz, xiv. 7).82 churches 19 convents
These fierce republiczins18 and
nunneries
defiers besides
of the
sceptre have ever bowed abjectly to the cowl and crosier; like the Valencians,
while they tremble to disobey a priest-enjoined form, they do not scruple to
kill a man - but their ancestors were the first to deify their despot Augustus,
while alive; and they set an example of servility to Spaniards, although
despised, even by Tiberius, for erecting temples to him (Tac. An. i. 78, iv. 37.)
Meanwhile, Catalonia is no particular place for the man of pleasure, _taste, or
literature. The national
_ costume, like the P zunted stuccoed houses, is rather
Genoese than Spanish. The men wear long loose cloth or plush trousers of dark
colours, which come so high up to the armpits that they are all breeches and no
body. Their jackets are very short and are hung in fine weather over their
shoulders. In winter they use a soi-t of capote or gambote, which supplants the
S anish capa. Another peculiarity in the head-gear is, that they neither wear
tli)e sombrero gac/to of the S., nor the montera of the central provinces, buta _r/orro
(gorri means red in Basque) or red or purple cap of which the Phrygian bonnet
was the type; the end either hangs down on ohe side or is doubled up and
brought over the foreliead, and has a high-treasonahle Robespierre look. The
wearers are fond of broils, are gross feeders, and given to wine, which they often
drink after the fashion of the Rhytium and phallovitrobolic vessels ofantiquity ;
they do not touch the glass with their lips, but hold up the porron, or round
bellied bottle with a spout, at arm's length, pouring the contents into their
mouths in a vinous parabola ; they never miss the mark, whilefia stranger
generally inundates either his nose or his ueckcloth. The women t to marry
and breedthey
amiable, Catalans are generally
lack alike on aoflarge
the beauty the scale ‘ and neither
V(Zl€7lYCl-(171/(I,’tl]8 graciahandsome
,1; aire of nor
the
Anduluza. The ordinary costume is a tight boddice, with a handkerchief
mocado, or a serge manta on the head. Their amethyst and emerald earrings are
quite Moorish, and so large and heavy as to be supported by threads hung over
the ears. They speak a local and to most an unintelligible language-a harsh
Lemosin, spoken with a gruff’ enunciation. The ‘ Diccionario ll1anuul,' by Roca
y Cerda, 8v0. Barcelona, 1824, is a useful interpreter between the Spanish
and Catalan. They also have local coins ardites weights and measures
differing from the Spanish, and perplexing the stranger, and usually reckon by
pesetas, not reals, which represent the old libras catalanas, the French livres or
francs.
The history of Catalonia is soon told. The neighbour, from the earliest
period, began her aggressions, and the Celtic Gaul invaded and harassed the
Iberian. The border races at last united, by a compromise, rare in the history
if rivfiltpeighbpurs, iréto th}e Celtgbegian, whilph, partaking of both stopks, ig
erite ie qua mes o eac , an ecame t e most aurivorous, crue , per -
dious brave and warlike population of the Peninsula. Catalonia was the
first cbnquest of Rome; and here that empire, raised by the sword, first fell
by the sword, for by this province the Goths also entered Spain, and it still
bears the record in the name Gothalunia. The Goths were welcomed by the
Catalonia. HISTORY—-—BEST AUTHORS. 395
people oppressed by the rapine and extortion of Roman governors, and free and
independent bands of Bacaudaz or Ifugaudw rose against them, as they did in our
times against the French; the Goths were dispossessed by the Moors, or rather
the Berbers, the real ravagers of the Peninsula. These in due time were beaten
by the Spaniards, aided by the troops of Charlemagne, whose principle was to
uphold all who were enemies to the Kalif of Cordova. When the Moors were
driven back beyond the Ebro, the reconquered province was divided into depart
ments or Ve_/]ue/-ius, and governed by deputed counts. The national liberties
were secured by a code of Usages, and the people were represented by local par
liaments or L"m'::e1-sidades. The sovereignty became hereditary about 1040, in
the person of Ramon Berenguer, who allied himself with the French and
Normans; hence the introduction of their style of architecture. Catalonia
was united to Arragon in 1137 by the marriage of Ramon Berenguer IV. with
Petronila, the heiress of Ramiro el Jllonjc; and both were incorporated with
Castile by the marriage of Ferdinand and Isabella.
Always hankering after former independence, Catalonia has never ceased to
be a thorn to all its foreign possessors. The ages of history are filled with
the outbreaks of this classical province of revo t. It rebelled against Pedro lll.
of Arragon, in 1277 and 1233; again in 1450, against Juan Il., b espousing
the cause of his son Don Carlos, and afterwards by declaring itsel a republic,
which was not suppressed until 1472. It yielded only a surly allegiance to the
Austrian dynasty while in vigour; but in 1640, seizing on Philip IV.’s infir
mity as its opportunity, it threw itself into the arms of Louis XlII., who pro
claimed himself Count of Barcelona, taking, in 1642, Perpiiian, the great
object of Richelieu, and thus depriving Spain of Roussillon, her north-eastern
bulwark, at the moment when she lost her western in Portugal. This insur
rection, put down in 1652, was renewed in 1689. Louis XIV., at the peace of
the Bidasoa, 16130, guaranteed to Catalonia her liberties, which his grandson
Philip V. abolished altogether, having previously carried fire and sword over
the ill-fated province. Then was laid on, as a punishment, a heavy income
tax, in lieu of all other Spanish imposts, but this, by unfettering commerce,
proved to be a saving benefit, since the native industry expanded once more.
In our times there never has been an insurrection, whether for the French or
against them, whether for a Servile or Liberal faction, in which the Catalans
have not taken the lead. Placed between two fires, and alternately the dupe
and victim of Spain and France, they have no reason to love their neighbours,
although willing to side with either, as suits their private and local interests.
This has always been a marked, and perhaps necessary policy on the Pyrenean
frontier, and is the result of position. Deep and immortal is their fear and
hatred of France. “Nulle part ailleurs,” says even General Foy (iv. 137),
“ les peres ne transmettent aux enfans plus de haine contre les Francais, leurs
voisins. Ils leur reprochent de les avoir entrainés pendent le 17"” siecle dans
les révoltes continuelles contre les Rois d’Espagne, et de les avoir abandonnés
ensuite au ressentiment d’un maitre outrage.” For the last years they may
seem friendly to their neighbours, in order to use them in abetting their opposi
tion to free trade and commercial treaties with England. Our best policy is
to leave them quietly alone. The French can no more play .on the Catalan
guitar, than the blundering meddlers in Hamlet could govern the stops of his
pipe.
Among the best authorities on Catalonia are ‘ Chromques de Espmia,’ Miguel
Carbonell, fol. Barcelona, 1547; ‘ Centuria 0 Historia,’ &c., Estevan Barellas,
1 vol. folio, Barc., 1600; ‘Historia de los Condes,’ Francisco Diago, fol. Bare.
1603; ‘Coronica,’ Geronimo Pujades, fol. Bare. 1609; or the new edition,
8 vols. 4to. Bare. 1829-32 ; ‘Historia,’ Bartolome Desclot, fol. Bare. 1616 ; ‘ Idea
del Principado,’ Josef Pellicer de Tovar, 8vo. Antwerp, 1642. For Philip lV.’s
wars, the ‘Historia dc los Mmzimientos,’ by Francisco Manuel de Melo, 4to_.
396 novrn 43.—.u11*osrA TO FRAGA. Sect. VI.
Lisboa, 1645, or the Sancha edition, Mad. 1808; ‘Discursos,’ Francisco de
Gilabert, 4to. Lérida, 1616 ; ‘ Sumari dels Titols,’ Andreu Bosch, fol. Perpinya,
1628, in Catalan ; ‘ Descripcion do Catalonia,’ Marca, fol, ; ‘ Cristal dc la Vcrdad,’
Gab. Agust. Rius, 4to. Zar. I646; ‘Atroces Hot-has Franceses,’ Luis de Cruz
amonte, 4to. 1633; and ‘ Pusagios futnlcs del m/nulo Frr1nces,' R. D. de ltocabert,
Zar., 4to. 1646 ; ‘ C’/ztaluila ilustrad-1,’ Estevan de Corbera, Napoles, 11378 ;
‘ Anales de Catalufuz,’ Narciso Feliu de la Pefia y Farell, 3 vols. fol. Barc. 1709 ;
also the ‘ Memoirs of Dunlop.’ For the wars of succession. Lord Mahon’s ex
cellent history. For commercial history, ‘ Memorias sabre la Marina,’ Antonio
Capmany, 4 vols. 4to. Mad. 1779-92; and ‘El Oodigo o Libr-o del Consulado,'
2 vols. 4to. Mad. 1791, by the same able author. For the ecclesiastical, Florcz,
‘ Esp. S 1;/.,’ xxiv., Parte i. 2. And for Roman inscriptions, the ‘S;/loge’ of
Josef Finestres, 1762. For botany, ‘El Catalogo,’ by Dr. Mi guel Colmeiro.
For Catalan authors, consult ‘ Merrwria para um biblioteca de escritores Catalanes,
Bare. 4t0. 1836, with Appendix by Juan Cormenon, Burgos, 4to. 1840. g

Those who enter Catalonia. from A suspension-bridge of silver might


Valencia (Rte. 42) may, if going to have been built for less than what the
Zaragoza, turn off from Amposta (p. repairs have cost. So much for Bridge
389), joining the Barcelona high road Commissioners all over the world.
either at Fraga or Lérida. This cross The city is subject to inundations from
route is scarcely carriageable; it is the Burranco del Rnstro, in spite of the
better to ride it. subterranean drain on a large scale.
As small ships come up from the Medi
terranean. the quay has been compared
to the Ripa Grande of Rome. The
ROUTE 43.—A1uP0srA T0 Fuses. river higher up (2 L.) ceases to be
Tortosa . . . . . 2 navigable on account of La Clwrta,
Jerta . . . . 2} . . 4*} the fall of which sometimes is 15 ft.,
Pinell . . . 2 6} and like that of Old London Bridge.
Miravet . . 2 81} 'l'l1ep0s'Idz1s are bad. Tortosa is a dull
Mora de Ebro 2 101'
Asco . 2 12} town, with narrow streets, and houses
Flix . . . . . . 1 .. 13¢‘ marked with the local character of soli
Tayzi . . - . . . 3 .. 16* dity ; the territory around is very fertile
Mequinenza . . . . 3 19% in fruit, wine,oil,corn, and green herbs,
Frags. . . . . . . 3 2211*
as it is watered with numerous norias,
Ascending the banks of the Ebro we but the irrigation is still ill managed
reach Tortos/t, a picturesque scramb and inadequate. Vast quantities of
ling jasper-built old town, placed on soda are made; the fish is excellent,
a sloping eminence, and parted by a especially the sturgeon and lamprey.
cleft or b'u'ranC0; Pop. 20.000; it The hills abound with coal, minerals,
rises grandly, with its fortified walls, and marl\les,_antl the magnificent jas
buttressed old castle, and cathedral, pers of Tortosa; the mrmtes males pro
over the river, and has an imposing duce fine pine-timber. The winter
lnok when seen from the redoubt el wild-fowl shooting in the salt marshes
Rastro, or from the Roquetas on the all the way down the Ebro is first-rate.
opposite bank. To the l. is the out Tortosa, Dertosa, an important city
work Tenaza, asuburb, and the castle; of the Ilercaones, was called by the
above are the forts San Pico and Or Romans “ Julia Augusta Dertosa.” It
leans. The river front is defended by had a mint, and the coins are described
the bastion St. Pedro and the tower by Cean Ber. ‘ S.’ 30, and Florez. ‘ M.’
Cw-eta. The Ebro is subject to inun i. 376. For the history see Esp. Sag.
dations, and the boat-bridge is con xlii. ; Historia de la Santa Cinta, Fran
trived to meet these risings and falls. cisco Martorel y de Luna, Du°., To rtosa,
Catalonia. ROUTE 43.—TORTOSA—CAT}{l'-JDRAL. 597
l626.- Turtosa fidclisimv, Vicente Mi lfiche Conde dc Alaclta to Suchet, Nov.
ravel y Forcadell, ttto. Mad. I641. 2, 1s11.
According to Martorell the local 'l‘he Gothic cathedral occupies the
annalist, Tubal first settled at Tortosa, site of a mosque built in 914 by
Hercules followed, and then St. Paul, Abdu-r-rahman, as a Cufic inscription
whose local name here is San Pau, preserved behind theSacristia recorded.
and who here instituted as bishop The name of the tower, Almudcna, is
Monsenor Ruf (Rufus, Ep. Rom. xvi. an evident corruption of the Al Mued
l3). Be this as it may, it is certain din, or the summoner of the faithful to
that under the Moors Tortosa became, prayers. The cathedral was dedicated
in the words of the conqueror, “ gloria to the Virgin in 1158-78 by the Bishop
populorum et decor uuiversa: terraz,” Gaufredo. The chapter was formed
and was the key of the Ebro and of on a conventual plan, the canons living
this coast, just as Almeria. was in the in community after the rules of the
south. It was besieged in 809 by order of St. Augustine; this arrange
Louis Le Débonnaire, son of Charle ment was confirmed in 1155 by Adrian
magne, who was beaten ofi'. He re IV. (Breakspeare, the English pope),
turned, however, in 811, and captured and the identical bull is printed in the
the town. It was soon recovered by Esp. Sag. xlii. 303. The present
the Moors, and became a nest of pirates, cathedral, built in 1347, has a fine ap
and a thorn toltaliau commerce. Hence proach, but the principal classical
Eugenius III. proclaimed a crusade facade, with massive Ionic pillars, has
against it, and the place was taken been modemised, and with its heavy
in 1148, nominally, by the Spaniards cornice is out of character with the
under Ramon Berenguer, but in reality Gothic interior, where also the demon
by the Templars, Pisans, and Genoese, of c/ium'_queris:no has been at work.
who fought and gained the battle, just The E. end terminates with a semi
as they had previously done at the S. circular absis. 'l'he core is placed
pirate port of Almeria. The Spaniards around the high altar, and not in the
were in utter want of everything, al central nave, as is more usual. The
though Ramon had taken even the fine Silleria, with rich Corinthian orna
sacred plate of the churches of Barce ments, “poppy-heads,” and saints, was '
lona. The Moors made a desperate carved by Cristobal de Salamanca,
attempt, in 1149, and nearly succeeded l588-93. The ancient pulpits with
in recapturing the town, for the in basso-relievos deserve notice. The
habitants, reduced to despair, medi beautiful reja del coro was raised by
tated, like the Saguntines, killing their Bishop Gaspar Punter, and is en
wives and children. One husband re riched with jaspers and Berruguete
vealed the plan to his spouse, who col details. The iron rcja to the high altar
lected all the women, and, encouraged is equally remarkable: the modern
by the Virgin, deceived the infidels by overdone organs are sadly out of cha
mounting the battlements, while the racter. The cathedral is full of pre
men sallied forth and routed the Moors. cious marbles, especially the chapel of
I)on Ramon, in consequence, decorated the Cinta, but the paintings on the
them with a red military scarf, the cupola, and the style of architecture,
' order of La Hacha, and considerately are beggarly, when compared to the
permitted the Amazons to receive materials. The baptismal font is said
dresses free from duty, and at mar to have belonged t.o Benedict XIlI.,
riages to precede the men. . who also gave his golden chalice to the
Tortosa was taken by the French chapter. The relicario is still rich in
under Orleans (afterwards the Regent), sainted bones, left behind by Suchet,
July 15, I708, who compelled the gar who only carried ofi‘ the gold and silver
rison, in defiance of the laws ofcivilized mountings. Observe in the Capilla do
warfare, to enlist in the French ser Santa Candia the inscriptions of the
vice. In the war of independence it tombs of the 4 first bishops—-Gaufredo,
was shamefully surrendered by the, ob. 1165; Ponce, ob. 1193; Gombal,
398 noun: 43.-—TORTOSA—TI-IE emu. Sect. VI.
ob. 1212; and Ponce de Torrellas, ob. over virginal zones (Arrobius, iii.).
1254: observe also the tomb of Bishop Hullarse en Cinta in Spanish is equi
Tena. Look at the portal leading to valent to being with child, cnceintc;
the cloister and its 5 statues. A small according to the Venerable Bede the
portion, also, of the original conventual abbess Elfrida was cured by the touch
buildings yet remains, and a curious of the girdle of St. Cuthbert. This,
old chapel with red and green pillars. like the rope of St. Francis, has suc
Adrian VI. was Bishop of Tortosa. ceeded to the Cingulum Herculis, which
The palladium of the cathedral and Festus states aided the increase of
the city is the Cinta, or miracle-work families in antiquity. The arms of Tor
ing girdle, which the Virgin, attended tosa are a castle and the Virgin stand
by St. Peter and St. Paul, brought ing, holding this Cinta, with the motto,
down in person from heaven in 1178, Amparanos d la sombra de tus alas: see
and delivered herself to a priest, whose also Moya, ‘Rasgo,’ p. 333. This
name and the why and wherefore are panacea failed to deliver the city
unknown; there is, however, a poem from Suchet.
on the subject in Latin and Spanish by The Colegio, founded in 1362 by
José Beltran y Ruis. A grand mass Bartolome Ponz, was improved in 1528,
is performed to this Cinta every second and confirmed as a college in 1545:
Sunday in October. The gift, declared the elegant cloisters are Doric and
authentic, in 1617, by the infallible Ionic, with medallions of royal per
Paul V., has long worked miracles, sonages from Ramon Berenguer down
especially in obstetric cases. Thus in wards, wrought in a fine Aragonese
the spring ofl822 the Cinta was brought style. In the church of San Juan is
in solemn procession to Aranjuez, in the grand sepulchre and kneeling figure
order to facilitate the accouchement of of Bishop Juan Bautista Veschi, ob.
the two infantas. Vocata. partubus 1660; and a miracle-working crucifix.
Lucina veris adfuit. Ascend to the ruined castle, with its
The Barbary Moors have a cannon wide ill-kept bastions, moats, &c. all
at Tangiers by which a Christian ship hors dc combat; the views over the town
was sunk, and across this their women and environs are splendid. There are
sit to obtain an easy delivery. In all also some ancient lllazrnorras. Visit the
ages and countries where the science Barbacuna and moat near the Puerta del
of midwifery has made small pro Temple, where, Feb. 16, l836,the Christ
gress, some supernatural assistance is inist General Nogueras, Mina readily
contrived for perils ofsuch inevitable re consenting! put to death, in cold blood,
currence as childbirth ; so the panacea the old mother of Cabrera, to revenge
in Italy, the girdle of St. Margaret, his defeat by her son. The old lady
became the type of this Cinta of Tor died like a man, and was a true
tosa, and was resorted to by the monks daughter of the former Amazons of
in all cases of diflicult parturition. The Tortosa, and mother to brave sons.
former was supposed to benefit the sex, The authentic facts are detailed at p.
because when the devil wished to eat up 175 of the Historia dc Cabrera, by Da
St. Margaret, the Virgin bound him maso Calbo y Rochina de Castro, Mad.
with her sash, and he became tame as 1845; a book which none who wish
a lamb. 'l‘his accoucheur sash also to understand the internecine character
produced others, and in the 17th cen of Spanish hostilities amongst each
tury had multiplied so exceedingly, other should fail to peruse. The re
that a traveller aflirmed “if all were collections of the ancient sex of Tor
joined together, they would reach all tosa might here, at least, have saved
down Cheapside ;” but the natural one female victim. Well said the old
history of relics is too well known to Cid-—
be enlarged upon. The scholar will re " Con llugeres teneis manor!
member the Cistus of Venus, the Cin Pm‘ Dies .' brat-os Caballeros!"
gulum of Claudia (Lactantius, Or. Err. This unmanly act was received with
ii. 7), and the Cinxia, who presided shouts of disgust in England, and of
C'ataZ01zz'a. ROUTE 44.—'r0n'r0s.\ TO mnnaooxa. 399
applause in Spain. Nogueras, to quiet the general panic. Mequinenza, which
our representations, was disgraced pro afterwards protected Suchet's retreat,
fornui; but the act was lauded by the was gained by stratagem. One Juan
press of Zaragoza, whose national Van Halen deserted from the French.
guard petitioned to have the “ prudent bringing away their cipher, whereby
and vigorous” ofiicer reinstated in com forged orders were made out by the
mand, which he was; in 1843 he was Baron de Eroles; thus the governors
the favourite popular candidate for the of Lérida, Mequinenza, and Monson
representation of Madrid, the capital, were deceived, and the places recovered
and he would well and truly have re from the enemy.
presented the majority of his consti Now the road branches off, to Fragu
tuents: and the fond memory of this ex 3 L., and to Le'rr'du, after passing the
ploit continues to give such satisfaction Segre, 7, throu h Aitona, 3 L. from
to the Catalans, that Nogueras was Meqm'nenza. or the communication
elected in 1851 member for Fraga. between Zaragoza and Barcelona, by
Leaving Tortosa the road continues Fraga and Lérida, see Rte. 129.
along the basin of the Ebro to Mora,
a town of 3500 souls, which had two
singular local tribunals, called “Del
Boyle,” of the Baili Bailifi‘, and “Del
Pro/zombre," of the Prudhomme, grant
ed by Juan Conde de Prades in 1400.
They acted as checks on each other, Rourn 44.-—-TOBTOSA TO TARRAGOKA.
for such is the divide et impera of
Spain's distrustful misgovernors Flt): VentadelosAjos . .
is girdled by the Ebro in a bosom of AlPerell6. . . . . 3 .. 5
fertility. The irrigation is managed Hospitalet. . . . . 3 8
Cnmbrils . . . . . 2} . 10%
by a canal, which is supplied by a large Reus . . H . 12
noria, water-work. The corn of Ara Tarragona . Z . . 14
gon is drawn from hence down the
river in boats for Catalonia, but the There is some talk ofarailroad from
Presa do Flzlv impedes the navigation. Tortosa to Barcelona. For Perello
The new and direct road from Barce see Rte. 42, and Reus, p. 405. The
lona to Madrid is to pass through best inns at Tarragona are, Parador dc
Mora do Ebro. There is a good quarry las Diligencias, El Meson Nuevo, and
of stone, which was used for the new Calle de St. Carlos. Consult ‘ Grandezas
front of the Tortosa cathedral. Me de Ihrragona,’ Luys Pons de Ycart,
quinenza, with about 1500 souls, rises 12mo. Lérida, 1572-73,the ‘Esp. Sag.,'
boldly over the Segre and Ebro, which vols. xxiv. xxv.; for the coinage,
it commands; here is a ferry-boat. Florez, ‘ Med.’ ii. 579; and for the
The irregular castle, once the palace Roman inscriptions, Cean Ben, ‘ Sum.’
of the Marques de Aitona, crowns the 8. For the antiquities, Tarragona monu
steeps ; inaccessible except to the west. mental, J. F. Albonara, and A. Bo
This fine specimen, with its towers, farull.
was of great importance in the War of Tarragona, as a residence forinvalids,
Succession, as forming a central point is remarkably healthy ; the air is mild,
between Lérida and Tortosa. This key but from its great dryness, bracing and
of the Ebro was besieged in May 1811, rather keen. There are no standing
by General Musnier, and was defended waters, nor is irrigation employed;
by Manuel Carbon with 1200 men; the walks are excellent, looking down
but on the 4th and 5th of June the to the sea; while in various directions
French got into the town, which they on the land side are scattered pine
sacked and burnt, and the castle capi woods, heaths, and aromatic wastes,
tulated on the 8th. Suchet the same where the wild-lavender and sweet
evening sent a detachment against sinelling shrubs perfume theair even
Morella, which surrendered at once in in mid winter.
400 nours 4-1.—TARRAGONA. Sect. Vl.
TARRAGONA, rising above the centred at Barcelona, while Moorish
Francoli and the sea, on a lime trafiic preferred Valencia,
stone rock some 760 feet high, was Tarragona, in the VVar of Succes
selected by the Phrenicians as a sion, was captured by the gallant
maritime settlement, and called Tur Peterborough. It was invested by
c/zon, which Bochart interprets, a Suchet in May, 1813, who gained the
“ citadel ;” and such ever has been, land-key, the Monte Oliro, by means of
and still is, the appearance and a traitor. The lower town was taken
character of this “ Arce potens Tar June the 21st, and the upper on the
raco.” Conveniently situated for com 28th. The women and children who
munication with ltome, this strong crowded to the English boats, the
point was made the winter residence of Spaniards refusing to embark them,
the Proctor. The fertile plain and were mitraillé by Suchet, as at Lérida.
“aprica littora" of Martial (i. 50, The horrors of the subsequent sack
21), and the wines of “ vitifera Lale surpass anything recorded. Suchet
tania,” the rivals of the Falernian, ordered and encouraged every atrocity,
still remain as described by Pliny, for with cold-blooded premeditation
‘ N. H.’ xiv. l6, and Malt. xiii. 118. he had threatened “ to intimidate
The brothers, Publius and Cneius Spain by the destruction of an entire
Scipio, first occupied Tarragona,which city,” and he boasted of his horrors.
Augustus raised to be the capital, hav See Southey, ch. 36 ; Schepeler, iii. 425;
ing wintered here (26 B.c.), after his and particularly theartiele in the recent
Cantabrian campaign; here he issued ‘ Ditwiunar-io Geogmfico’ of Barcelona.
the decree which closed the temple of The loss of Tarragona was chiefly
Janus. The favoured town was inti owing to Spanish misconduct; Campo
tulated “ Colonia victrix togata tur verde outside and Contreras insidefrom
rita,” togata being equivalent to im jealousy had sent Sarsfield away with
perial, since the gens togata were the his relieving troops at the most critical
lords of the world. It was madea con moment. The disgrace was shared
rcntus juridicus, or audicncia; had a by some English, for in June Ske;-rett
mint, and temples to every god, god arrived with 1200 men, and, had they
dess, and tutelar; nay, the servile been landed, Suchet would not have
citizens erected one to the emperor, dared even to attempt the storm; but,
“ Divo Augusto," thus making him a according to Napier (xiii. 6), the
god while yet alive. This temple was “ surf, and the enemy’s shot, and the
afterwards repaired by Adrian, and opinion of Doyle and Codrington”
some fragments in the cloisters of the prevailed, and the army and navy of
cathedral are said to have belonged to it. England remained idle spectators of the
Twrmgrma was taken by the Goths “ untoward event.” Tarragona again
and became their capital. The Moors witnessed French success and British
under Tarif, “ made ofthe city a heap,” failure; for in 1813, when the Duke
and the ruins remained uninhabited was advancing a conqueror into France
for 4 centuries. The metropolitan after Vitoria, he ordered Sir John
dignity, removed by the Goths to Vick, Murray to attempt Tarragona by a
was restored in 1089, to the disgust of “ brisk attack,” in order to create_a
Toledo, who disputes the primacy. diversion and prevent Suchet from
Tarkuna, or rather the site, in 1118 marching to aid Soult. Murray, with
was granted by San Oldegar, of Bar 14,000 men and the identical artillery
celona, to Robert Burdet, a Norman which had breached and won Badajoz,
chief, a warrior, as his Norse name sailed, May 31, from Alicante, and
Bwrdo, to fight, explains. His wife, arrived June 3 before Tarragona.
Sibylla, during her husband’s absence, The citadel was defended by Bertel
kept armed watch on the walls, and beat letti, with only 1600 men.‘ Time was
back the Moors, after which the city now everything, yet Murray pottered
grew to be a frontier fortress, and 110 and paltered, and Suchet advanced to
thing more; for Christian commerce the relief; at the first idle repon of
C'atal0nz'a. ROUTE 4-l-.—TARRAGONA. 401
which Murray raised the siege. The works protects the rise to the uppcr
indignation of the army was so great town. A wide street, the Rambl/I, runs
that personal insult was offered to at this point almost N. and S., and is
him: he forthwith re-embarked amid defended to the sea-side by the bastion
the jeers of soldiers and sailors, and (Zn-I/is V. The upper town is girdled
with such haste that he left behind with ramparts and outworks: that of
him his heavy guns and stores, Adm. the memorable Oliro should be visited
Hallowell in vain having begged a for the view ofTarragona. The walk
delay only of 6 hours to remove them ; round the lofty ramparts is striking;
Murray, unconscious of shame, quietly even the ruins speak Latin and bear
going to bed and sleep (Napier, xxi. 1). the impress ofCa*sar; what a sermon in
“ The best of the story is,” said the these stones, which preach the fallen
Duke, “that all parties ran away: pride of imperial Rome! Part of the
Maurice Mathicu ran away, Sir John bases of the enormous Cyclopean walls
Murray ran away, so (lid Suchet.” near the Car-eel or Quartel dc Pilutos
Murray made light of his disgrace, (Pontius Pilate being claimed by the
and talked of his guns as “ old iron,” Tarragonese as a townsman) hare been
which it was his habit to abandon, as thought to be anterior to the Romans.
at Biar, and “rather meritorious ;" This edifice, said to have been the
colours, at that rate, are but bits of palace of Augustus, half destroyed by
bunting. “This unfortunate failure" Suchet, has since been made a prison.
(Dcsp., July 19, 1813) and the loss of The bossagc work of this ruin upon
l
this battering-train “crippled” all the ruins resembles that of Merida and
Duke's future “ operations," compelled Alcantara; the thickness of the walls
him to blockade instead of laying in some places exceeds 20 ft. Many
siege to Pamplona, and thus gave an, remains of antiquity are constantly
opening to Suchet to advance on his .‘ found at Tarragona, and as constantly
flank in Arragon; and had he been , either reburied or mutilated; a few
free from jealousies of Soult, combined fragments of low art, and among them
they might have arrested even Wel an Apollo, are huddled away in the
lington himself in the Pyrenees. The Acvdernia among other “old stones.”
repeated defeats suffered there by Ship-loads of antiquities, it is said,
Soult single-handed, compelled Suchet were carried otf by the English in
to evacuate Tarragona, and Aug. 18 1722, and Florez (Esp. Sag. xxiv. 2) is
he blew up the fortifications. Un grateful to the foreigners for having
sightly is the ruin and painful the re thus preserved what the abnulono _1/
collections, and to none more than the ignarancia of his countrymen would
Englishman when he reflects on those have let perish; some of them are
miserable ministerial medioerities by at I..ord Stanhope’s seat, Chevening.
whom the energies of this country Some Egyptian antiquities have re
were misdirected ; what excuse can be cently been said to have been found
found for those who, having the choice here, and of which have been published
of a Hill, Picton, Cole, Pakenham, rude lithographs, but they may be
Graham, etc., could select for this E. safely pronounced to be spurious; the
side, men whose whole careers, civil hieroglyphics are clumsy forgeries, and
and military, had before been a failure, the figures a hodgepodge of antiquities
as ever after. of all periods.
Tanaacozu is still a plaza de armas, Leaving the Pm:/~t/z de Santa Clara,
by name at least, as for all real strength near the Ii/Isiion del Toro, and close to
of war it is entirely unprovided: the the sea-shore, are a few misshapen
city contains about 12,000 souls; in the remains of what once was an amphi
time of the Romans it exceeded a mil theatre, which have always been used
lion. It consists of an upper and under as a quarry. Portions of a circus 1500
town ; the under is protected by a range feet long, but now built over, are to be
of bastious fronting the Franc-oli, the traced between the bastion of Carlos V.
port, and mole, while an inner line of } and Santo Do1nin_/;0. The site was
402 ROUTE 44.-'rARnAc;0NA—scn>10’s TOMB. Sect. VI.
partly excavated and ascertained in Valdivielso and Armafiac; what they
1754 by an Irish gentleman named repaired, Suchet destroyed, who broke
Coningham. The stupendous walls it down near the Olive: it has since
near the Plaza San Antonio, which been set to rights.
overlook the sea, deserve notice. Make, another excursion 1 L. to the
How clearly ancient Tarragona was N.W. of Tarragona, along the sea
used up as a quarry in rebuilding coast, to a Roman sepulchre, called La
the modern town may be seen at Torre de los Escipioaes, although the
the end of the Rumbla in the Al real place of the burial of the Scipios
m./wen de Artil/eriu; and the Roman is quite unknown; the picturesque
inscriptions imbedded here and else road runs amid pine-clad hillocks,
where are so numerous that the walls which slope down to sheltered bays,
are said to speak Latin. Observe No. where fishermen haul in their heavy
13, Calle Escriuanias Viejas, the Window nets, and where painted barks sleep on
and lintel made up of Roman remains, the lazy sea; on the ridges above bird
and the singular Hebrew-like inscrip catchers spread their toils. The
tions. There are others also in the monument lies close to the road, amid
courtyard of the archbishop’s modern aromatic shrubs all life and colour;
palace and in the cathedral cloister. two injured figures, in mouruful atti
The bossage stones in the C'ampanari0 tudes, stand on the front; the stone
and walls of the cathedral prove work is much corroded: an alabaster
that they once belonged to former inscription was taken down by Card.
edifices. ' Ximenez; in that which remains the
Two ancient monuments situated at word perpetuo is just legible, as if in
a distance from the town have there mockery of man and his perishable
fore escaped somewhat better. About works. The view towards Tarragona
1 L. on the road to Le’:-idr to the r. is a is ravishing; the beauty of the present
superb Roman aqueduct. lt spans is heightened by the poetry of the
the dip of a valley fxom which the past. The rock-built city slopes with
loftiest arches rise 96 ft. high; double, its lines of wall down to the mole,
ll ‘below and 26 in the upper tier; studded with white sails, while the
they diminish in height as they ascend vaponry distant hills and the blue sea
the slopes; the length is 700 ft. The peep through vistas of the red branches
water runs partly underground nearly of the pines, and glitter through the
20 m. from the “Pont d'Ar1nentura." dark velvet of their tufted heads; and
This aqueduct is called el Puente do then the sentiment, the classical
Farr-eras, and by the vulgar del Diablo, Claude-like feeling inspired by the
giving as usual all praise to “the grey Roman tomb!
devil,” as pontifex maximus. In this The cathedral and the fortifications
respect, however, the real devils in are what best deserve notice in modern
Spain were the clergy, as the Puentes Tarragona; the former partakes much
del Obispo, Arzobispo, Cardenal, etc. best of the Norman character; the approach,
prove: they were truly Aa.:p.n:;, or as as is usual in Catalonia, and like that
San lsidoro interpreted the word Amn of the semi-Norman Amalfi, ascends
paavu, skilful and intelligent, and to by a flight of steps from the busy
knowledge they added wealth and market-place de lrrs Ooles. The effect
beneficence. The ‘view from above is has been well calculated; as the high
charming; the lonely rich ochry aque altar in Spain is raised by steps above
duct, stretched across a ravine, with the level on which the congregation
here and there a pine~tree soaring out kneel, so this temple rises above the
of the palmito-clad soil, looks truly town : thus everything tends to elevate
the work of those times when there the priest above the people; they look
were giants on the earth. Ruined by up to him and his dwelling, until the
the Moors, it so remained upwards of transition from a material s~pcrz'0r:'ty
1000 years, until repaired by the soon passes to one moral and spiritual.
Arehbishops Joaquin de Santiyan de According to local annalists the
Catalan ia. ROUTE 44.—TAnnAa0nA—sA1\'TA TECLA. 403
original cathedral was built by Santi popes and emperors praying: this sin
ago, and in it St. Paul preached (neither gular work is attributed to Bartolomé,
of whom ever were in Spain); mean 1278. The interior of the cathedral,
time the facade of the present edifice with its low rnassy piers, is simple and
rises to a triangle, with a truncated grandiose; the pilu or baptismal font
point; the superb rose window was is a Roman bath, or sarcophagus, found
commenced in 113! by San Oldegar, in the palace of Augustus; the grand
aided by Robert Burdet, who went Retublo was constructed of Catalonian
especially into Normandy for his gar marbles, by Pedro Juan and Guillen de
rison and architects. Thus, as in Mota, in 1426-34. The Gothic pinna
Sicily, where his contemporary and cles were once painted and gilt; the
countryman Roger employed Norman principal subjects of the basso-relievos
and Saracenic workmen, a fusion of are from the martyrdom of Santa
style is produced, which is also to be Teela, the tutelar of Tarragona; her
traced here in the round low arches, grand and picturesque festival is cele
the billet and zigzag ornaments in the brated on the 23rd of September, with
cloisters. and the circular machicolatedsky-rockets, dances, &c., on the plaza;
end of the cathedral, and its style of she was converted by St. Paul, to
towers. The Normans were bitter whom she consecrated her virginity;
foes to the Moslems, first, because both thereupon Thamiro, to whom she was
were of the same trade, invaders, and to have been married, brought an
secondly, because they had clashed in action for this breach of promise; the
Sicily and Spain. Tl1e northmen Spanish judges ordered her to be burnt
never forgot their repulse by Abdu-r alive, but as she came unhurt from
rahman (see p. 164), and readily allied the furnace, she was then cast to lions,
themselves with the Catalans, passing who only licked her feet; she was next
either from Sicily in ships, or through exposed to the rage of bulls, and lastly
France from Normandy. Their im to the lust of soldiers, who resisted a
pression, however, was short-lived, temptation diflicult to their habits.
and the unrecruited race died away, Previously to Buonaparte's invasion
or was assimilated with the more po she protected the church plate:
lished people whom they had subdued. when Pedro cl Ceremonioso wanted
The archives of the cathedral, once to take some without leave, she
among the most complete and curious, descended from heaven, and dealt
were mostly burnt by Suchet: fortu him una pa/mud/I, a box on the ear,
nately, an abstract of them had been of which he died January 5, 1387
made in 1802 by the learned canon (Abarca, Ann. de Aragon, p. ll, ch. 12).
Domingo Sala, which he permitted So Ceres, at Miletus, punished the
us to peruse; that, doubtless, has sacrilegious soldiers of Alexander the
since perished. The large deeply Great (Val. Max. i. 2), nsi el amor venga
recessed pointed Gothic porch, with Sus agravios, in spite of the proverb that
the apostles on the sides under ladies’ hands do not hurt, manos blan
Gothic niches, is the work of Cas cas no ofeuden. (By the way, the
cales, 1375; the facade is earlier, Spanish female hand is one of the
and was finished in 1280 by Archhp. ugliest and least white in Europe. It
Olivella, who retired to the monastery is, as Rosalind says, “ a leathern hand,
ofCornalbau, stinting himself of every a stone-coloured one, a Izusu~ife’s hand,”
thing to save money for God's work. and it is the result of the latter. The
The iron-plated doors, the strange constant habit of einbroidering hardens
hinges, knockers, and copper bullw the finger-points; not that their pal
were added in 1456, by Archhp. Gon mfld/1 would on that account be the
zalo, as his arms denote: he lies buried less elfective.) Thence Santa Tecla
on one side, and to the l. a prelate of was justly reckoned by the chapter
the Medina Celi family. The doorway the first of female martyrs, and her
is divided by a figure of the Virgin and aid is prayed for under all dit‘fieul
Child, and above is the Saviour, with ties; but, like the Cinta of Tortosa,
404 ROUTE 4-1.—TARItAGONA—CATHEDRAL. Sect. VI.
she failed in the case of Suchet’s siege. is a cross in the shape of an Egyptian
She was held to be most eflicient in Tau. The chapel de la Virgen de los
the pulpit. “ Sir,” said Dr. Johnson, Sastres, the Tailors’ Virgin, and that
“a woman preaching is like a dog under the organ, erected, in 1252, by
walking on his hind legs, it is not Violante, wife of Don Jaime, to her
well done, but you are surprised that sainted sister Isabel of Hungary, are
it is done at all.” Her chapel, which very ancient. The capilla dc San Juan
was modernised in 1778, is very rich and that of San Fructuoso, a tutelar of
in red marbles, Corinthian pillars, and Tarragona, obiit 260, were erected by
poor sculptured relievos of her history Pedro Blay: another local tutelar is
by one Carlos Salas. Observe, how San Magin, who when alive dwelt in a
ever, the tomb and costume of the cave, was brought in to the Roman
Archbp. Olivella. governor like a wild beast, executed,
The gorgeous windows in the tran and since has worked such astonishing
sept were painted by Juan Guarsh, miracles (see Esp. Sag. xxv. 177) that
1574: the elegant Gothic chandeliers the Junta in 1808 chose him for their
are modern, and were made at Barce Captain -General. He is prayed to in
lona: the Silleria del coro is excellent, cases of deafness, bad eyes, and el mal
and carved in 1478 by Francisco Frances. The fine Raphaelesque paint
Gomez and his son. Observe the arch ings in the chapel dc la Jlugd/tlcml were
bishop’s throne and the reja: the destroyed by the French; the temo,
organ, one of the best in the province, which, like that of Valencia, is said to
was designed -by Canon Amigo, of have belonged to St. Paul's of London,
Tortosa, in 1560. Many tombs here escaped, and is used at Easter. There
are extremely ancient; behind the is also some fine Flemish tapestry with
altar is that of Cyprian,a Gothic archwhich the pillars are hung, or colgado,
bishop, 683; observe those in the l. on grand festivals. Among the tombs
transept, in chests resting on stone observe, near the altar, that of Juan
corbels; the dates range from 1174 to de Aragon, Patriarch of Alexandria,
1215; several of the deceased were ob. 1334; the expression is, perhaps,
killed in these foray periods (Hugo dc too smiling. Near the S¢lCl‘1'8ti'<¢ is
Cervellon, Villadez, Moltz, &c.). The that of Archbishop Alonso de Aragon,
Oapilla del Sacramento, with its noble ob. 1514: observe also that, by Pedro
and truly classical Corinthian portal, Blay, of Archbishop Gaspar de Cer
Was built in 1561-86 by the Archbishop vantes Gaete, who was at the Council
Agustin, the first of modern coin-col of Trent. The allegorical statues are
lectors, from a design of his own, cor fine ; observe that of Archbishop Pedro
rected by the Canon Amigo; he died dc Cardona, and his nephew’s, Luis,
in 1586, leaving Santa Tecla and this also archbishop, with the elegant
chapel his sole heirs: his fine tomb is scroll-work and children: finer still
the work of the celebrated Pedro Blay, is that of Archbishop Juan Teres,
1590: the chapel was originally the under a Corinthian pavilion, by Pedro
refectory of the canons when they lived Blay.
in community; the roof has been The exquisite cloister is a museum of
thought to be Roman. Suchet used itas antiquity and architecture. Ascend the
a military magazine ; the marble Retablo terrace of a canon's house to obtain a
is filledwith paintings by Isaac Hermes, view of the truncated towers of the ca
1587. Of the sculpture, the Aaron thedral, their strange windows, the
and Melchizedec are by Albrion and machicolations of the circular end, the
Nicholas Larraut, 1588; the bronzes rich projecting Gothic chapel, and the
of the Sctgrario are by Felipe Volters, square transept with rose window. In
1588. the cloisters below,the pointed windows
In the rt. transept, near the altar del are divided by smaller round-headed
S mto Crista, observe the rude and Norman arches, while in the space
most antique ships and crosses let into above are circular openings with Moor
the walls: the badge of the cathedral ish ornaments, which were much de
C'ataZ0:. fa. noun: 44.——EX(.'URSlONS T0 REUS AND roauzr. 405
faced by Snchet’s troops. Observe the - quantities are gathered in the Selra dc
cornice ofchequer and billet mouldings, Art-Ihmos.
witha fringe of engrailed arches resting
on corbels or crockets of heads; observe Exctmsioxs 'ro R1-zus AND Ponmr.
the romanesque capitals and fantastic
carvings, among them a rat and cat There is constant local means of
funeral: the Norman zigzag or chevron getting to and from Reus, 2 L. This
is remarkable. In the walls are em modern lively manufacturing town
bedded fragments of Roman sculp which contrasts with desolate decaying
ture, said to be portions of the temple Tarragona, is the flourishing capital
of Augustus; observe also a Moorish and the centre of its rich and highly
arch of a Mihrab or oratory ; the cuphic cultivated crunpo or com/u-ca. The
inscription states that it was made by older portion of Rcus was built in
_ Giafar for the prince Abdala Abdu-r 1151; the more modern rose about
rahman, “the servant of God—ot' the 1750, when many enterprising English
compassionate,” in the year of the settled there and established a com
Hegira 349, A.D. 960. Among the merce in wines, brandies, and leathers,
sepulchral inscriptions is one A.D. I194 the firm of Harris taking the lead.
to Raimundus Boneweworte (? Buona The new portion, with its wide plazas
parte), hujus eoclesiw praepositus: and streets, glaring in summer and
another inscription, “ 8th Compam/.” cold in winter, contrasts with the
comes home to every English reader. tortuous but cool and sensible lanes
The central garden is quaint; a coarse of the earlier town. Ascend the
alto-relievo with mythological figures San Pedro for a view. The arabal,
is used as a .=eat—“ old stones.” In this a street built on the former suburb
_ cloister the ashes of Jaime el Conques boundary, is a sort of boulevard. The
tador, and of other royal personages, 7IlCf'CIld0 is the centre of shops and
repose at last, having been removed lonngers, a sort of arcaded exchange.
from Poblet. Near the cathedral is There is a theatre and decent inns and
the Quartel del 1’tztrz'r1rca, formed out of cafés, for it is abusy place with its silk
a Roman edifice, and much injured by and cotton works. Pop. above 20,000.
Suchet, perhaps because Francois . Monday is the best day to go to Reus,
was kept a prisoner in it. Behind the as being the market. The seaport
cathedral is a very ancient little_church Salon, the rival and bane of Tarragona,
called San Pablo, and said to have is exposed to all winds but the east,
been built by the apostle himself. and is really safe only in summer.
Not far off is Sta. Tecla, La Vieja— Reus—rich, commercial, selfish, and
also attributed to the same illustrious cowardly—opened its gates to the
architect, but it is probably an erection French in 1808, and was halfruined by
of the 12th century-the cornices, win their exactions under M‘Donald: in
dows, and portals are worth notice. 1835 it distinguished itself by cold
Walk out also to the gates of San‘ Anto monk murder, and in 1843 by "little
nio and Merced to look at the old walls warrings,” in which the rival gene
and striking views of this ancient and rals, Zamhrano and Prim, both were
now desolate city. made Condes de Reus! arcades ambo.
Tarragona unfortunately has a bad Another excursion may be made on
port. A muellc, mole, or pier, was horseback to Valls, 3} L., and Poblet.
chiefly made out of the ancient amphi Valls, with its old walls and towers, is
theatre by the chapter, who in 1491 a thriving town of 16,000 souls. Here
employed Arnau Bouchs. The present the Spaniards were completely beaten,
is the plan of one John Smith. Re Feb. 25, 1809, by St. Cyr, and Red
cently improvements have been made ing, the real hero of Bailen, received
in spite of the rivalry and opposition his death-wound: the disheartened
from the port of S'almt—0ne more con troops abandoned artillery and every
venient for the cotton-spinners of Rens. thing, when the town was sacked,
Tarragona exports nuts, of which vast and the whole district fell into the
406 nourr: 45.——TARRAGONA TO BARCELONA. Sect. VI.
clutches of the invaders. On the same the Spanish revolutionists of 1835 ;
plains Jan. 16, I811, Sarsfield revenged still the long battlemented walls are
very picturesque, and the cloisters im
this disaster, and routed Gen. Eugene
and an Italian detachment of Mac pressive. The ruined porlico, coro,
with the sala capital/1r and monumental
donald‘s, a little fact entirely sup
pressed by Buonaparte. slabs, ofi'er a faint record of this former
1{= L. from Valls is the decayed pantheon, where so much royal dust re
town of Mantblanch, Pop. 4000, with posed. The ashes of lines of kings
its old walls, towers, and four gates; cast to the wind, were in part collected
and about 2 L. more lies the once by a local curate named Sorret, and re
celebrated Cistercian monastery of moved to the cloister of the cathedral
Poblet, which is placed at the entrance at Tarragona: requiescant in pace! The
of the rich valley La Conca dc Barbara‘, grand objects of former Poblet were
and was itself the Pearl of the “ Shell.” the sepulchres, in which several of the
Monastic devotion was judiciously deceased kings had two efiigies, one
sheltered by a spur of the hill Prrldcs; representing ‘the monarch armed or
and cheered by fertile farms and far arrayed in royalty, the other as clad in
famed vineyards. The mitred abbot, the garb ofa deacon or a monk. This
“ purple as his wines,” reigned in Pali is truly characteristic of the medizeval
tiuate pomp. In the recent reforms, Spaniard, half-soldier, half monk, a
July 24, 1835, he and his monks fled; crusading knight of Santiago; his
then the axe felled his fruit trees, and manhood spent in combating for the
the torch fired the cells; ruin and rob cross, his declining years dedicated to
bery have since been the order of the religion. No country has ever pro
day, and the glories of Poblet are of duced more instances of kings retiring
the past: what they once were are re to the cloister, nor ofsoldiers resigning
corded in the Historia, by Jayme Fi the sword for the crucifix, and washing
nestres, 4 vols. 4to., Cervera, l75-‘3 ; in off the blood from their hands, making
Ponz,xiv. 220; and Madoz, xiii. 94; and their peace with God, after a life of
more fully in the description of Poblet, battle in his cause. Jaime the Con
by Andres de Bofarull, Tarragona, queror contemplated ending his life
1848. The foundation was after this here as a monk, where Pope's Duke of
wise. In the time of the Moors, aholy VVharton actually did die. The artist
hermit named Poblet retired here to or antiquarian going to Poblet should
pray, but an emir, when hunting, not foFget at dinner to drink the rich
caught him and put him in prison; red wine del Priorato.
but on the angels of heaven having
broken his chains three times, the
Moor repented, and granted him all
the territory of Hardeta; when the
Christians reoonquered the country, Room 45.——TARRAGONA T0
the body of Poblet was revealed to BARCELONA.
the church in ll49, by miraculous Torredembarra . . . . '1
lights, and Ramon Berensner IV. im Vendrell . . . . 2 . 4
mediately built the half-fortress cou Villafrunca dc Panades . 3 . 7
vent El Santo, and confirmed to the Vallirana . . 3} . 10}
Barcelona . . 3% . 14
clergy who discovered the holy bones
the whole of the extensive Moorish There is a regular communication
grants. Thus the convent became by diligences. To the rt. rises the
enormously rich, and was made the tomb of the Scipios, and the Gayzi is
Eseorial, the burial-place of the Ara crossed, and thus described by Lord
gonese kings, and afterwards of the Wm. Bentinck (no notability either
dukes of Cardona, who repaired the _with sword or pen) : “ The river, hav
sepulchres and church. This resting ing no water in it, and being only im
place of royalty was ravaged by the passable from the steepness ot'its banks,
troops of Suchet, and worse again by is passable for infantry everywhere.”
C'atalom'a. nouns 'l5.—VILLAl~‘RANCA on muons. 407
(Disp., Aug. 25, 1813.) Passing that, defeat. Lord Wm. Bentinck moved,
to the rt. is a picturesque mined castle Sept. 5, 1813, from Villqfrvznca .~ Adam,
and ataluya; then Altwfulla, with its on the 12th, reached Urdu], and, al
square tower on the sea, and 7"w-re though warned ofthe French advance,
zlembirra, Pop. 2000, with its octan left this the only approach open,so Gen.
gular keep. In this rich district the Mesclop crossed the unguarded bridge
olive and vine flourish, and irrigation by moonlight, and a confused retreat
is managed by the Moorish noria. The ensued. Adam fell back on Bentinck,
Roman arch, the Arco de Bum, the who was driven by Suchet to Arbos,
next object of interest is much injured, A thousand men and four guns were
and the statues gone: it is best seen thus lost by these blunderers, and the
from the Barcelona side; the inscrip great | lans of the Duke were again de
tion ran, “Ex testamento L. Licini, ranged as by thebungler Murray at Tar
L. F. Serg. Surae consecratum.” At ragona. He even feared that “ Suchet
Vemlrcll, Pop. 3500, with its dragon would tumble” such opponents beyond
fly-winged windmills, the country be the Jucar, and meditated coming him
comes densely peopled : the view from self in person to set all to rights; and
the fine parish belfry is extensive. had he done so, how differently would
Arbos is placed on a hill, with a. matters have been managed! As it
splendid prospect ; the town was one of was, his difliculties were constantly
the first places sacked by the French, increased by the blunders of the Mur
under Chabran, who burnt the village rays, Bentincks, and Adamses, under
and the villagers alive in it (Schep. i. whom our armies failed on this coast,
223). Soon the panorama opens orer and being pitted againstwhom Suchet
Villufranca and the skeleton mountain who luckily never met the Duke—rose
of Monserrat looms with jagged out rapidly to fame. The dcspatches of
line: at Olerdola, which lies to the rt., the Duke to Bentinck, embodying the
are some Roman tombs cut in the rocks; whole art of war in Spain, remain for
at the entrance of Villafranca is a posterity, however thrown away on
monument to the memory of Wm. Han him to whom they were addressed.
son, killed in the late war. Sidges, The road descending from these
famous for its sweet wines, lies on the disastrous hills reaches Molfns del Rey,
coast about 7 m. to the rt. a whitewashed town backed by vine
Villrrfrunca de I’nnadcs, inn, Parndor clad slopes, which was sacked and
nuevo, is a walled town of some 5500 burnt by the French in 1808, when
souls: founded by Amilcar, it was the retreating from their defeat at Bruch.
earliest Carthaginian settlement in The Llobregat, Rubricatus, flows in a
Catalonia; it was retaken from the muddy rcddzslt stream under a long,
Moors in 1000 by Ramon Borel, and, solid, heavy, red-stoned bridge. Here,
being a frontier of a. disturbed district, Dec. 21, 1808, Gen. Chabran utterly
was declared free, and highly favoured routed the Spaniards under Vives and
with privileges, in order to entice Reding, the former only coming up to
settlers—hence its name. The Rnmb/a see his troops in full retreat. Nothing
is a pretty walk. The I’arroq1u'./1, a but this shameful defeat could have
fine specimen of masonry, has a noble enabled St. Cyr to relieve Barcelona. or
nave; the lofty belfry or Catulonian have saved the French from utter ruin,
tower is crowned by a bronze angel. for they were at that moment driven
The Punades district is very fertile; to the last extremities. Then and
the fine road soon enters the grey there these patriots lost all the arms
rocky hills and aromatic underwoodz and stores supplied by England—fur
ascending to the Cruz or Coll do Or nished, in fact, as elsewhere, to the
11 ll, Barcelona glitters in the distance. enemy.
-Here a magnificent bridge, de L/edones, Now begins the dusty thickly-throng
spans the ravine; this was the im ed high-road to Barcelona: the dial,
portant point which Sir Fred. Adam emblem of the Catalan’s knowledge of
did not secure, and thereby did secure the value of time, is now placed on most
408 mourn 45.—-—BARCELONA. Sect. VI.
of the stuccoed and painted houses. Iims.—The Catalan takes kindly to
This primitive clock, which is rather the hotel and kitchen. Fonda delgrande
for the benefit of the passenger outside Orienle, excellent; the charges are 5
than for the tenant inside, is peculiar to pesetas 8. day: Cuutro Nuciones, good,
this city of Barca. The dial, of Chal charge 35 reals per day: the Fulco,
dean origin (2 Kings xx. ll), was not opposite the theatre. The minor po
introduced into Rome until after the S/.l(]flS are called hostals. The CGSIIS
first Punic war (Pliny, ‘ N. H.’ vii. 61)). Pupilos (Ousus de Desposa) are ill
Clocks indeed are not much more com adapted for ladies, and not often fre
mon in the interior of Spain than in quented by foreigners. The warm
Barbary ; the sun and shadows are the baths are good. Carriages for country
primitive method of counting the flight excursions are always to be found near
of time in countries where it is of little the Puerta del Angel.
value. The busy women sit in the open Among tradesmen may be named
air making lace: the peasants are all booksellers, Sauri, Calle Ancha; Brusi,
trousers, and their loaves are those of Calle Libreteria; Piferer, Plaza del
Brobdignag, some weighing 30 lbs. Angel; jewellers, Ortels, Soler, &c.—
Crowds are now to be met either they all live together in the Plateria,
snoring in their carts, singing, or which everybody should visit. The
drinking out of porrones at the center mosquitonets of Barcelona are excel
rillos. lent; let none going to Valenciaomit
Barcelona soon opens in view, with to buy one at Amigo y Sauri, Calle
its lines of walls and fortifications and Corders. There are constant com
its Catalonian towers. It is well si munications by steam (otfice Calle dc
tuated on a rich “ pltl ” or plain, girdled la Merced), and by diligences (Ram
by fresh hills, and irrigated and ferti bla, No. 101), in every direction. For
lised by the river Llobregat and the excursions to the smaller towns, each
canals Condal y Real. These advan locality has its host//I, its inn of call, at
tages are counterbalanced by the town which the Galeras, Carrabas, and mule
being a plaza de armas. The garrison teers are always to be heard of. The
precautions impede free ingress and best works on Barcelona are the ‘ His
egress; the place is exposed to sieges. torii de los Condes,’ Francisco de Diago,
and its proportions, limited by the folio, Barcelona, 1603; the ‘ Trofeos 3/
girdle of walls which cannot be ex Antlgiied ides,’ Juan de Dios Lopez, 4to.
tended to meet a growing prosperity; Barcelona, 1639; Florez, ‘ Esp. Suy.’
hence, in addition to their turbulent xxix.; ‘ Disertacion,’ lsidoro Bosarle,
rebellious tendencies, the Barcelonese 8vo. Madrid, 1786: Ponz, xiv.; and
have always been anxious to pull down the ‘ Memories,’ and ‘ Libra del Consulado’
these fortifications, promised indeed as of Capmany. There is a useful Guia
a cu_irass against enemies, but in fact a published by Sauri, and maps of the
straight waistcoat for themselves. Li streets and. the vicinity published in
berty and commerce cribbed, cabined, 1818 by Monfort, and by Oliva in 1840.
and confined, pines, pent up in what is The Ctztcd/-atico de lus C/rsas is a learned
but a prison on a larger scale. 13.nov man and excellent Spanish master.
lona, besides social advantages, has na BARCELONA, one of the finest and
tural attractions to our invalids for a certainly the most manufacturing city
winter residence ; accessibility and of Spain, is a better placed and hand
proximity to France, favourable acci somer city than Madrid. It. is, we
dents of locality. an open sea and plain, repeat, the Manchester of Catalonia,
with a mountain-skreen from northerly which is the Lancashire of the Penin
winds, are among the advantages enu sula. Some 50 tall chimneys besmut
merated by Dr. Francis. Barcelona the city, and an iron work set going by
enjoys a winter and annual temperature a Mr. Kent, modestly called El Nnew
warmer than Rome or Naples, averaging Vulcano! Compared, however, to the
about 50'l8°: the townsfolk are hardy mighty hives of English industry and
and long-lived. skill, everything is petty.. The Ramblu
Cuialon ia. nours 45.—BARCELONA. 409
divides the old town from the new, East, and trade was never held to be a
and runs nearly N. and S. lt once degradation, as among the Castilians;
was a streamlet, la Rieru den Mulla, of accordingly, heraldic decorations are
the “Mall,” which boundcd the W. much less frequent on the houses here,
wall of Barcelona. The word Rambla where the merchant's mark was pre
(Arabice Ruml, a sandy heap) means a ferred to the armorial charge, The
river bed, which in Spain being often Catalans, then at peace and free, for
dry in summer is used as a road, just the Spanish and Moorish struggle was
as the Corso (the Spanish Case) became carried on far away in the S., were
a Cours at Marseilles, and a race-course protected by municipal charters and
at Rome. The channel taken in,on the fueros; their commercial code dates
extension of the city,like the Boulevard from L279, and E! consuludo del mar
of Paris, is now made the great aorta, de Barcelmm obtained the same force
and a charming walk planted with in Europe, as the Leges I-'/Iodine had
acacias and laburnums; like the Unter among the ancients. It was then
den Linden at Berlin, this is the fa a city of commerce, conquest, and
shionable promenade by day and night, courtiers, of taste, learning, luxury,
and the Corso of the renowned car and the Athens of the troubadour.
nival of Barcelona. On it the traveller Here, April, 1493, did Ferd. and Isab.
receive Columbus, after his discovery
should lodge, as here is the theatre,Licco,
the post-ofiice, the diligence-ofiice, and and gift ofa new world. Butthe Cas
the bureau for passports, the best shops, tilian connexion, with its wars, pride,
and most gape-seed. and fiscal absurdities, led to the decay
Barcelona, according to local annal ofBarcelona,aud the citizens soon disco
ists, was a Laletanian city, founded of vered the danger ; thus when Charles V.
course by Hercules, 400 years before came there, he was only received as their
Rome. Re-founded 235 13.0. by Amilcar nominal king: hence their constant
Barca, father of Hannibal, and thence desire to shake ofi' that foreign yoke.
called Barcino, it became the Carthage Thus, in 1640, they rose against the
Nova of the N. coast. The Punic city taxation and violation of their usages
was small, and only occupied the hill by Philip IV., and threw themselves
Taber, or just the present site around into the arms of France; turning how
the cathedral. In 206 11.0. it was made ever against her in the VV_ar of Succes
a colonia by the Romans, and called sion, and espousing the Austrian cause.
“ Ilwentia Julia Augusta Pia Barcino.” When the glorious career of Marl
It was, however, eclipsed by Tarra borough was arrested by party moves,
gona, the Roman capital, and by Em the curse of England, Barcelona was
poriae, a busy Greek sea-mart. Taken left alone to combat her two powerful
about 409 by the Gothi-Alani, it soon neighbours, France and Spain. Louis
rose in importance, and coined money XlV.'then sent Berwick with 40,000
with the legend Barciuona; two councils men to aid Philip V., whilst an Eng
were held here in 540 and 599. When lish fleet, under Wishart, blockadcd-
the Moors destroyed Tarragona, Bar proh pudor l—their former allies. The
celona, awed by the example, capitu city refused toyield unless its“ fucros”
lated, was kindly treated, and became were secured, and was therefore
a new metropolis. After many changes stormed by the French; Sept. ll, a
and chances during the 8th and 9th white flag was hoisted, but in vain,
centuries, in 878 it was ruled by an Mata :1; Quema was their war cry, and
independent Christian chief of its own, Berwick applied the torch himself;
whose 12th descendant dropped the and when the sword, fire, and lust had
title of Count of Barcelona, on assum done their worst, all the privileges
ing that of King of Arragou. During guaranteed by France were abolished
the middle ages, like Carthage of old, by Frenchmen (Mahon, ix.).
Barcelona was the lord and terror of Buonaparte obtained Barcelona by
the Mediterranean, and divided with perfidy; he knew its importance, and
Italy the enriching commerce of the called it the “ first city ’ and key of
Spain.-1. 1'
' '7"j’—'

410 ROUTE 45.—BARCELONA—FESTIVAIS. Sect. VI.


Spain; “ one which could not be taken, y dim: is disposed of at Madrid. The
in fair war, with less than 80,000| evening show, at the Puerta del Angel,
men." Accordingly in Feb. 1808 he of the returning thousands is interest
sent Duhesme with 11,000 men, but in ing, as to the costume and manners of
the character of allies, who desired, as the Catalan, male and female.
a “ proof of confidence and harmony,” Easter Monday is a grand holiday;
that his troops might alternately mount then infinite numbers go either to Coll
guard with the Spanish; this granted, or Gracia. April 23 is the day of St.
on the 28th he seized the citadel, hav George, the tutelar of Catalonia, when
ing drawn out his soldiers under the a fiower-fair is held near the Audzenciw,
pretence of a review; Ezpeleta, the to which the fairer sex resort, them
Captain-General, at the same time selves the fairest flowers. Nowhere
giving up the fortress of Monjuich. is el dia de Corpus observed with more
(Compare Figueras and Pamplona.) magnificence. On San Juan, July 25,
After the restoration, this turbulent young and old turn botanists, and sally
town," under the Conde de Espaiia, forth C0;/er Z1 Verbena for good luck;
who ruled with a rod of iron, quailed San Pedro, June 29 ; Santiago, July 25;
and was quiet, but in 1827 it rose in and all the festivals of the Virgin,
fitvour of Don Carlos, and ever since are kept with much splendour. Nov.
has taken the lead against every esta 1, “ All Saints’ Day,” is honoured by
blished authority. General Lauder eating Panellets, which are rafiled for
opened the ball by opposing Christina, in Rifus in the streets : the next day is
in 1834: soon after Barcelona “ pro sacred to the dead, when all the living
nounced” for Espartero in 1840, and go to visit the “ Ccrrwntc/1'0 " outside the
against him in 1841-2-3. Being “all walls. Dec. 21 is the fair of Barce
for itself," it is in fact always ready lona, and is frequented by the peasantry
to raise the banner of revolt. from far. Here the artist will sketch
To all but commercial travellers a the pretty [)1]/es/IS and their mocados
few days will suflice. The most amus and holiday dress: the Rambla is then
ing periods are Christmas and the New filled with men and turkeys, and the
year, when all are dancing and eating, Bocaria, Call, Platerfa, and Moncada
especially asort of wafers called Neul/zs, streets with booths and purchasers.
and the almond-cakes Turroncs. Jan. Barcelona (Pop. above 150,000) is the
17 is the day of San Antonio Abad, capital of its province, the see of a
the patron of the lower Catalans and bishop, the residence of the Captain
pigs; then quadrupeds are blessed. General and Jefe politico, and the seat
Muleteers and asses perform the tI‘8S of an Audiencia. It has a university,
Tours, a procession 3 times round his academies, and the usual civil, mili
church: observe their costume and tary, art and humanity establish
the huge tortells, a sort of loaf which ments, more common otherwise in Eu
is hung to their saddles. Feb, 12 is ropean than Spanish towns.
the festival of the great Diana of Bar Although there are few things more
celona, Santa Eulztlia, when _all the repugnant to English notions than all
world goes out to dine, dance, and play that concerns Justici/t in Spain, a word
the Sortzja, at Sarria ; the torna bode is at which the natives tremble as we
repeated on the Sunday next ensuing. do at the thoughts of Chancery, a
The Carnival of Barcelona, las Carnes Howard may visit the Cur-cal Nuevn, or
tolendus, is to Spain what that of Rome spacious and well-arranged NewPrison,
is to Italy: then the Rambla, like the built in 1838-40 ; the younger culprits
Corso, becomes a masquerade out of are here taught las prime:-as letras,
doors; while the Thursday, “Dfjozts to read and write ; visit the sula de de
gras" (Jeudi gras), is celebrated gas claracion, where the judge listens con
tronomically. On the first day of cealed behind a grating, while the ac
Lent, Barcelona goes out of town into cused is confrouted with the accuser!
the country to “ bury the Carnival," At the Cusa dc Oaridad, founded in
“ enterrur dl curnestoltas,” as the Sar 1799, more than 1000 poor_ men, wo
C'atal0m'a. noun: 45.—BARCE1.0NA——PROMENADES. 411
men, and children are usefully em meuades with which Barcelona
ployed. The Presidio, or place of abounds; first, for the interior is the
detention for convicts, is on a large unrivalled Rambla; then, for the land
scale; the culprits during the term of side, the Mm-alla dc tier»-tr, which is
their confinement are instructed in both a walk and a drive. The fortifi
different trades, and receive half their cations on this land side, already ren
earnings, part at once, which they ex dered useless, are to be pulled down,
pend in tobacco, and the remainder on and the city is to be extended towards
leaving, by which means they are not Gracia, taking in the intervening plains
forced into new crimes by being cast and villages. The Madrid road issues
without means or character on the from the Puerta San Antonio; beyond,
wide world; the other half is retained the gardens and “torres” extend to
to defray the general expenses. Yet Sarria ; at the Puerta del An;/e/, a noble
little attempt at moral reformation is walk, made in 1824 by the M. de
made, and not half are reclaimed; safe Campo-sagrado, leads to Gracia. The
custody rather than philanthropy is the road to France -issues from the Pzlerta
principle: they are tolerably fed, as Nueva; outside to the l. is a wide ex
well, indeed, as Spanish soldiers: they tent of densely peopled garden district;
sleep on the ground like pigs, on mats to the rt. is the citadel, and beyond this
in long corridors; generally speaking, the Cemmterio, with its catacomb
there is an open grating at one end, at niches, and a chapel built by a Flo
which sentiuels are placed with ball rentine named Ginessi. Near the
cartridge. There is a sort of school Puerta Nueva begins El 1’ust-o Nuero,
for the younger offenders. or “ 1.‘! Lancustrin,’ so called from its
Barcelona has its own literary founder, the Duque de Lancaster.
and academical establishments: there The avenues are shady, and the stone
is a Lancasterian school, a casino seats commodious. The nereids, tri
or club, with newspapers, reading tons, royal busts, all chin and nose, and
rooms, a liceo, and Academia de Buenas sculpture, are poor as regards art.
Letras, and some Well-conducted hospi The garden “ del General,” at the other
tals, especially the “General.” That end, was laid out by Castafios, in 1816,
of Santa Cruz may be “ walked” with pepper-trees, flower-beds, statues,
through by a M.D., albeit the en ponds with swans, and aviaries. The
trance-wall, decorated with the skulls cold drinks at the grand café near it
and bones of the killed and wounded, are delicious. The walk on the sea
presents unpleasant prospects to pa board, on the mural terrace or ram
tients. There is a good “Biblioteca part, la Muralla del Mar, is, as at ‘Pa
lVact'o'nal,” Riera de San Juan, open lermo, the fashionable morning and
every morning; in this are collected evening lounge; it is most charming,
some 40,000 tomes, the remnants of the being enlivened by fiotillas of single-sail
Conventual libraries, of which thou craft: sheltered and sunny in winter,
sands of volumes were destroyed by and freshened by the sea-breeze in sum
the mob; there is another smaller mer. The modern Plaza del Mar opens
library, the “Episcopal,” and a most to the mole, looking towards the Plaza
superb national Arc/n't:0 de Ar-agon. The de Toros, built in 1833, and Genoese
new theatre, the Ltceo, is the finest in looking suburb Barceloneta. The Plaza
Spain. The salon is superb. That of del Palacio is the resort of the oflicial,
Santa Cruz is the Casino. The Museo military, and commercial classes The
is at the Loztja Modern books are environs of Barcelona are delightful.
much wanting; in fact there are “ no The sea and town form the base of a
funds,” and the‘ Catalan public is no rich plain, girdled by hills, which rise
great reader. to a mean height of 700 feet, from
To understand the localities of this whence the bridgeless Besos and the
city the traveller should first ascend tributaries of the Llobregat, the bane
the cathedral tower with his map, and of the port, descend. This “Pia” is
then walk through the beautiful pro studded with “ Torres y Huertas,"
'1‘ 2
TIP“

412 ROUTE 45.—-BAItCEI.0NA—-CATHEDRAL. Sect. VI.


which extend from the city walls to be found in the oldest_portion of the
Gracia and Sar-ra'a', the Hampstead and town are but fragments, having for 15
Clapham of the rich merchants,‘ and the centuries been ill-treated by Goth,
Greenwich of the multitudes, who go Moor, and Spaniard. In the Calle del
there on the holidays to eat and dance. Paradis some columns built up by
The country and views are beautiful. houses are‘ supposed to have been the
Among the cits’ boxes, el Laberinto and termination of the aqueduct from Coll
thatof Senor Anglada, both near Horta, cerola, of which an arch remains in
are the most renowned; calesas and car the Calle dc Cupcllans: there are 6 in
riages are always to be had at the one house; 1 is seen in the Patio, 3 in
Puerta del Angel, to make excursions, a room, and 2 in an upper garret.
either over the Pla or to the Baths, These have been called the tomb of
lax Culdas dc Montbuy, 3 L. oif, which Hercules, Ataufus, &c. Opposite the
were taken in 1844 by Isabel ll. : the Puerta de Santa Lucia of the cathedral,
season is both in spring and autumn; in Casa l5, called del Arcediano, are
the warm waters contain muriate and some Roman inscriptions, and a good
sulphate of soda, and are beneficial in sarcophagus with hunting reliefs, now
cutaneous complaints. used as a water-tank. A better marble,
The streets in the older part of the with a Roman female, called here Pris
town are narrow and tortuous. shady cilla, and a head of a Bacchus, exist in
and sheltered: they are being gradually the Casa del Pines, Plaza Cucurella. The
widened; in the present rage of mo plateresque cinquecento ornaments of
dernisin , convents are converted into this ancient mansion deserve notice,
“ mills; ’ and new streets are built in but they-have been barbarously white
imitation of those in the Rue Rivoli at washed. In the house of Senor Bails,
Paris, with arcades and shops, rather Calle San Pedro Baja, is another sar
than after the old Catalan character. cophagus, used also as a tank ; in the
But the Catalans in their present civili Academia de Buenus Letras is a collection
zation mania reject the old styles of of pictures of no great merit, and mu
house and street architecture, well tilated antiquities: a Proserpine is the
suited to their climate and habits, to best. Some Roman sewers, cloacas, or
copy arrangements calculated for other clavequeras, still exist in the Calle dc la
zones, and totally different wants and Boqweria and that de Junqueras: in the
conditions. Gcfatm-rt I‘olz'tz'c'r, on the staircase, is a
Visit la Pluteria, where all this inno colossal female foot, said to have been
vation has not yet crept in. The form of part ofa Juno.
many of the ornaments worn by the pea In the church of Sun Miguel is a
sants is quite classical and antique, al blue and white Mosaic Roman pave
though the work is rudc and coarse. ment, with tritons and marine subjects,
Observe the huge earrings of ame considered to have belonged to a tem
thysts, the “ Arracadas” (an Arabic ple of Neptune; although some have
word and thing), and the “Joyas,” thought it the work of Greek artists of
made with emeralds and coloured the 13th century. It has been bar
stones. The botanist, ornithologist, barously mutilated by modern steps,
and artist will, of course, visit the tombstones, &c. This church is of
Borne, or market behind the Santa great antiquity, having been altered in
J1/iria del Mar, where all sorts of vege 1002: the font appears to be part of
tables and fruits, and birds of sea and an ancient candelabrum. The prin
land, are sold by picturesque “I'a_r/ cipalportal, with a statue of the tute
rsvs,” The ichthyologist will pass to lar, is a mixture of the Norman and
the Pescaderzlz, opposite the Aduana, Saracenic styles: observe the square
where the finny show is magnificent. pilasters adorned with flowers and
The new market Bocaria is built on a vases, and a Roman inscription to one
modern plan, on the site of the convent Licinius, let into one of the walls. In
Srm Jos~'—a Covent-garden. the Fonda del Sable is a sculptured
The principal Roman antiquities to marble, of a low period of art. In the
Catalonia. nourn 45.—-a.\ncr;1.0.\'.i—s"- EULALIA. 413
Calle de Ios Barios are some old Moor ' speaking" Patrona of the city, to whom
ish baths, converted into a stable l the present cathedral is dedicated. This
The churches are very ancient ; some r lady must not be confounded with her
are of singularly elegant Gothic, and namesake of Merida, and her name, Eu
many have the square and polygonal ;.¢>tiuz, indicates her Byzantine origin.
belfry. The cathedral la Sew or Sea Female saints are more common, how
rises on the highest part of the old ever, in Mariolatrous Spain than in the
town, and is built on the site of a pre Greek church, where the Oriental low
vious Pagan temple. The Christian estimate of women prevails.
chapter naturally nestled around, in
“ Esta es Eulalia, ht dc Barcelona,
the excellent houses of the Calle del 1):: la rica. Ciudad, lajoya ricu. .' "
Pmjadis. This cathedral is a type of
the ecclesiastical architecture of Ca Her authentic life is written by Ramon
talonia : the characteristics are the ele de Ponsich y Camps, 4to. Madrid,
vated flight of steps at the approach, 1770: put to death Feb. 12, 304, by
the belfry towers, the lofty roof, sup Dacian, her soul ascended to heaven
ported by slender elegant piers, the visibly in the form of a dove, while her
splendid painted glass, the semicircular body was in due time miraculously re
colonnade which girdles the high altar, vealed by its perfume in 878 to Bishop
and below it the chapel crypt, with its Frodoyno, who carried the sweet corpse
elliptical arch ; a profusion of Saracens’ to the cathedral. The present chapel
heads are used as bosses and corbels, was finished in 1339 by Jayme Fabra,
to encourage the old crusaders. The when the precious corpse was placed in
infusion of a Norman style cannot be ‘ it, 2 kings, 3 queens, 4 princesses, car
mistaken. The principal facade is un dinals, and smaller deer, attending (see
finished, with a bold front, poorly . Curnps, p. 456). Their sculptured heads
painted in stucco, although the rich form the fringe of the elliptical arch
chapter for three centuries have re above the descent; the svpulchre was
ceived a fee on every marriage for raised on spiral pillars of antique jas
this very purpose of completing it; pers with Corinthian capitals, taken
and it is kept unfinished to justify from some ancient temple. The curious
begging pious contributions for the inscription round the rim is given in the
completion. The original cathedral was l Esp. Sag. xxix. 320. The silver lamps
built by Ramon Berengner 1., on the were appropriated by the invaders,
site of an older one, dedicated to the with much of the sacred plate of the
cross. The present edifice was begun cathedral, once both ancient and mag
in 1298. The coro and pulpits are ofa nificent. The chapter paid to the in
good Gothic; the organs are of sober vaders 40,000 libras Catalanas to pre
coloured wood, with Saracens’ heads serve it, who took the money first, and
beneath. The Retablo Jllrrjar is com plate next: va: victis! The finc gold or
posed of a dark stone, with pointed gilt Cnstodia in the Sacristia alone
arches, and blue and gold ornaments; _‘ escaped. Observe it well. On the base
the pillars which cluster around it, is represented the entry of Juan II. into
forming an open semicircular frame, iPerpinan, Oct. 28, 1473, after he had
instead of the usual solid walls, have a defeated the French besiegers.
very light and elegant etfect. On each Ramon Berenguer, and his wife Al
side is a spiral pillar of red marble, i mudis, are buried near the Sucristiu:
supporting an angel with a torch: the their tombs were restored in 1545. A
series of connecting gilt arches is deli gallery above the piers has a pretty
cate and singular; the chapels round engrailed border. The order of Mon
the altar are clmrmyucresque, and filled ‘tesa was instituted in this cathedral,
with bad Retablos, sculpture, and over July 22, l3l9, and here, in 1519,
gilding. In a chapel crypt below the ' Charles V. celebrated an installation of
high altar, like the sepnlchre of St. ‘the Golden Fleece, the only one ever
Peter's at Rome, lies, or is said to lie, i held in Spain; and in truth that Bur
the body of Santa Eulalia, the “ well ;gundian order passed away with the
'“"_

414 ROUPE 45.——BARCELONA—CHURCHES, Sect. VI.


Austrian dynasty, although claimed and steps is the Gothic Almoyna, the canon’s
used by the Bourbon kings of Spain. Alrnonry; near the cathedral is the
The arms of the Knights Companions, Plaza del Rey, and the ancient palace of
and of our Henry VIII. among them, the Gothic kings. It was given in
are blazoned on the stalls. Observe 1487 by Ferdinand to the Inquisition,
the silleri l and the painted glass. San just as he had made over the royal re
Oldegar lies buried in his own chapel sidence at Zaragoza, in the hope that
to the rt. on entering: observe his tomb, loyal associations might induce obe
and also his statue in the trascoro, with dience to this new tribunal, which he
marble reliefs of the Martyrdom of destined to be an engine of police and
Santa Eulalia, set in aDoric framework. finance. It afterwards became the
San Oldegar was a Frenchman, and palace of the Viceroy, and then a con
died in 1137; his body was miracu vent and prison. In the Arc.’llm'to of
lously discovered about 500 years after the cathedral are some curious re
wards, quite fragrant, and uneorrupted cords of religious festivals, called
all but the tip of the nose (see Esp. Ewrnplaria.
b'1_q., xxix. 277). The painting by Second, and closely analogous to the
Villodomat is better worth notice. cathedral, is the fine church la Santa
Made a saint by Innocent XI. in 167 5, Maria del Mar, erected on the site of a
he since has been tutelar of the Cata chapel of the Goths. Inscriptions near
lans, being invoked in the common the S. door record the date of the re
cases of childbirth, and the rare loss of building, l328; it was finished in
speech in women. His biographies, 1483. The style is very elegant, the
besides that in the ‘Espafm Sayjrtzdrl,’ piers airy and lofty; the painted glass
are numerous: select that by Antonio rich in greens, blues, and reds. The
J. G. de Caralps, 4to., Bare. 1617, or gilded royal pew faces the overgrown,
an earlier in 8vo., by Jaime Rebulloso, overdone organ. Observe the semi
Bare. 1609. circular framework of pillars that
The cathedral has two noble light surrounds the high altar, which, un
towers ; the arched support of that with fortunately, was modernized in I8-L3,
the clock deserves notice: the great with red marbles, gilt capitals, and
hell was cast in 1393: the panorama tawdry sculptured angels and the
.from the summit is glorious; flocks of Virgin; to the rt. is a good statue of
pigeons, as at Valencia, fly about, being San Alejo, and in the Respaldo del Co/'0,
forced by their proprietors on the some pictures by Villodomat, repre
house-tops to thus air themselves. Near senting the Passion of Christ.
the door of ascent is the elegant Gothic S/m Pablo del Campo, so called be
cloister with its faded frescoes and cause once outside the town, like our
pleasant court of oranges and spark St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields at Charing
ling waters; let in the walls are some cross, resembles the San Pablo at Tar
curious sepulchral stones, dating from ragona (p. 405), and is akin to some of
the 12th to the 14th century. Here the primitive churches in Gallicia. It
was the canonical aviary in which cer was built in 913 by Wilfred II., as an in
tain sacred geese were kept like those scription let in the wall near the cloister
of the Roman capitol. Notice the shows. Observe the small double clus
Fuente de las ocus. tering pillars with engrailed arches,
Observe the sculptured efligies of the Norman romanesque capitals of
tailors with their shears, and boot boars, gritfins, and leaves.
makers with their boots. The guild Sun Pere de las Pyellas was built in
of the latter, el grcrnio de los Zapateros, 980 by Count Sunario after the same
in 1208, were benefactors to.the cathe style as San Pablo, when the earlier
dral. Descending the great steps is church, erected by Louis le Debon
their casu, covered with symbols and naire, was destroyed by Al-Manstir.
their patron San Marcos, preferred Observe the singular capitals, in one
by the orthodox Catalans to our St. of which the prickly pear is intro
Crispin. To the rt. of the cathedral duced: the women, when at mass in
Catalonia. ROUTE -i5.—B.~\RCELO.\'A—HOL'SI'1S. 415
this low dark church, muflied in their ' them, were also filled with curious
white mantalinas dc punta, look like the tombs of the 12th, l3th, and 14th
dead in shrouds. The ecclesiastical centuries; the sepulchres of the Ar
arcbaiologist will visit Santa Ana, ragonese royal family, which stood
built in 1146, in the form of a cross, on each side of the altar, were de
by Guillermo II., patriarch of Jeru stroyed by the constitutionalists in
salem, and in imitation of the church 1823. San Francisco is said himself to
of the Sepulchre; unfortunately, the have visited this convent, and his cell
transept and Presbiterio have been mo was shown in a small patio, and in
dernised. Sun Jaime, built in 1394, scribed “ Cella Fratris Francisci de
has a noble nave. San Cucufat (Cata Assisi, anno 1211.” In the Colegiata
lonicé Culgat) was built in 1297 on the Sm. Ana observe the quiet cloister and
spot where the tutelar was baked, sepulchre of Miguel Bohera; in San
which is hence called del /tor-1w: he Belem, formerly the Jesuitus, a speci
was martyrised by Dacian, July 25, men of Italian masonry, are some rich
by being partly broiled on a grid marbles, some pictures ascribed to Vil
iron, but when his prayers put out lodomat, and the identical sword of
the fire, he was beheaded. I-lis body fered by Loyola on the altar of the
turned up miraculously at St. Denis, in Virgin at Monserrat.
France, and was given by Louis le The architect and antiquarian may
Dcbounaire to protect Barcelona from examine among the public and private
the Moors; part of it was also taken buildings the Cusa de Dusai, Calle del
to Santiago. This Barcelonese tutelar's Rcgomir; the rich Patio, with its clas
old church was unfortunately rebuilt sical pillars and sculpture, ascribed
in 1827. to Daniel Forment, is now a dyer’s
The single nave at Sun Just _1/ Pastor yard! In the house of the Ctll‘(l(/Ill/S,
is fine: built in 1345 on the site of an near the b’uja(l<t de Sun Miguel, is
earlier church, founded by Santiago! another fine patio. Observe also the
it possessed many privileges, e. g. in staircase, the elaborate roof, the spiry
dis uted cases of duels, sailors’ wills, pillars, window decorations, carvings,
an ,Christians cheated by Jews. nun and coats of arms. The facade and
Agustin is a modern edifice, erected in patio of the Casa Medina Celi, is in
1750, and of no merit, although much rich plateresque; the house of Grrllla
more admired by the natives than _:/ Dcspla (Calle Puerta Ferrisa) is of the
these venerable piles, which they 15th and 16th centuries. El Palm/,
either degrade or destroy. Santa Maria Calle dels Templaris, belonged first to
del Pi, built in 1380, has a noble single the Templars, and then became the
nave, a rich portal, and fine tower. In palace of the wives of the Counts of
the Cnpilla San Miguel is buried An Barcelona. The chapel was public,
tonio Villodomat, the only painter of and marvellously endowed with in
whom cotton-spinning Catalonia can dulgences, because the prow of the
boast; born 1678, ob. 1756, the last galley Victoria, in which Don John of
ray of Murillo lighted on his pallet: Austria commanded at the battle of
his style is simple, his drawing correct, Lepanto, was placed there. The au
his colouring rich and natural. His (licncirl or diputacion, founded in 1365,
works are seldom to be met with out of was rebuilt in 1609 by Pedro Blay, in
Barcelona, where they are but little the Herrera style: the much-admired
appreciated. Few great towns possess front is disfigured by square port
fewer pictures than this rich mart of hole windows. Here the “ Regents”
money-making cotton-spinners. The or chief justice presides. The ceiling,
finest works of Villodomat, now at the and portraits of the Condes of Bar
Lonja, 20 in number, and representingcelona arranged in the court'or Sala,
the life of the tutelar, were placed deserve notice: here are kept the ar
in the noble cloisters of the Fran chives of Arragon, the finest in Spain;
ciscan convent, burnt by the mob in exceeding 8000 volumes, and coming
1835. These cloisters, when we saw down from the year 874. Thanks to
-116 ROU rm 45. BARCEI.ONA——PORT. Sect. V I.
the industry and learning of their America, by Bover and Olive: the
worthy keeper Don Prospero Bofarull, Neptune and dolphins of the fountain
they are admirably arranged, and are are by Traves and Sola, and the statues
mines of historical information: the on the fine staircase, of Commerce and
original court-yard is preserved, with Industry, are by one Gurri. In the
precious specimens of elegant Gothic large saloon are a Laocoon and a
work. The public is admitted to see statue of an Aragonese soldier, by Cam
the saloons on St. George’s Day. The peny, and two gladiators by Bover,
C.¢su consistorial, built in 1369-73, pos but the whole lot are very ordinary.
sesses an equally beautiful patio .- ob The frescoes in the Sula de Sesi0nes,
serve the twisted pillars, the rich de the portrait of the Queen, and the
tails of windows, doors, and the Doric other statues by Carnpeny, are not
facade of the front which overlooks much better; indeed inside and out
the garden. The municipal archives side everything bespeaks mediocrity
are curious. The towers of the Bishop’s of art, notwithstanding the gratuitous
Palace are said by some to be Phu2ni schools which are opened here, and the
cian, but they are more probably medita lectures which are delivered on the
val_ Opposite Sm Agustin is an elegant various branches of knowledge at the
Doric portal of the Herrera period. expense of the Junta de Comercio. Two
The Aljztmt or Jews’ quarter extended rooms are set aside fora m'tse0._ Ob
from the Pl/zza de la Constitucion to the serve the paintings by Villodomat res
C-ti/e del Call. The rich inhabitants cued from the destroyed convent of
were massacred and their houses de San Francisco, especially those por
stroyed in Aug. 1391, by the mob, in traying the Statutes, the Supper, and
stigated by San Vicente de Ferrer. Sta. Clara; the glass of Water, and
The Captain-General lives in the the Stigmata. The Museo Salvador con
“rm! Pttlacio,” on its Plaza. The tains a good I-lerbarium, and some Spa
edifice was built by the city in 1444 nish swords of the rare Per/-illo brand.
for a cloth hall, “ Halli: des draps,” but The adjoining aduana was built in
in 1514, when foreign wars destroyed 1792, by Count Roncali; here is the
trade, this hall was turned into an Tuscan again, and heaviness ad arm
armoury. In 1652 Philip IV. con seum; the vexations its criticism en
fiscated the building and, to punish the tailed on the designer caused his death
rebellious citizens, made it the re in 1794. Since the Norman-Gothic
sidence 'of his viceroy; it was mo period, Barcelona, like Cadiz, has pro
dernized by Roncali, an architect who duced few eminent men. In early times
laid many a heavy load on the Cata the Jews were by far the most pre
lan soil. The modern spick-and-span eminent. Among men of literary merit
new palace is in very poor taste. may be cited Masdeu the antiquarian,
This plaza was much exposed to the and Capmany the political economist.
bombardments of Sept. 1843, espe The Felucca-crowded port of Bar
cially the Crzsa Lonjrt, or “ Long celona, op osite this plaza, is spacious;
Room,” of the exchange, once a superb never goo , as exposed to the S., it is
Gothic pile, and built in 1383; this subject to be choked up by deposits
gem was “ beautified” in l770 by the from the river. A mole, begun by the
corporation, who employed a French citizens in 1439, was carried away by
architect, of whose improvements even the sea; they then employed, in i47 7,
the municipality were so ashamed that an engineer, from Egypt, named Stacio,
they pulled them down. The existing whose work, strengthened from time to
pile, reared in 1772 by Juan Soler, is time from the quarries of Monjuieh,
heavy, has many facades, a Tuscan was improved in 1802, by one John
portal, and arched terrace; a noble Smith of Tarragona During the Penin
Gothic-pillared saloon in the interior sular war, when the Mediterranean
has fortunately been spared: the 1:/n‘i0 became an “ English lake,” the port
contains some second-rate marble being usel .-ss, was neglected and almost
statues of Europe, Asia, Africa, and ruined. Some sums have since been
C'uz‘al0uiu. noun: 45.—BARCELONA—FORTlFICATIONS. 417
laid out in cleansing it. Here, Jan. 17, run in straight lines; the houses are low
1543, the first now so-called steamer I and painted red, with a Genoese look,
ever made was launched, by Blasco de and tenanted by shipbuilders, dealers in
Garay, in the presence of Charles V., ' marine stores, fishermen, and washer
but his treasurer, one Ravage, opposed , women. The church, San Miguel, is
the invention, which fell to the ground. ‘ built in defiance of the beautiful ex
Touching this Spanish “ invention,” in ‘ emplars of better times ; and the worth
real truth the rejected plan was simply less sculpture, by one Costa, is worthy
to give motion to the paddles by . of San Telmo, the Spanish marine tute
“ men,” nor was steam ever dreamed of. ; lar. The tomb of the Marques, by Juan
The whole correspondence is preserved Henrich, is heavy, in spite of his por
at Simancas. The unfounded claim was trait, in marble, and a flaming epitaph:
Well known in Spain, but Espafwlzkrno “ In acie fulmen, in aulfi flamen.”
kept up the cheat for the honour of The eminence Monjuich defends and
l\'<1.s-at/-us, who now call their steamers commands Barcelona to the rt. It was
(built by the way in England), Blasc0 the Mons Jovis of the Romans ; the
de-Garays ! In 1830, when English Mons Judaicus of the middle ages, being
steamers first navigated the Guadal the residence of the Jews; and some
quivir, the time bills announced that strangely-inscribed tombstones are yet
“ a mass was said before starting” in to be seen underneath it. The present
the dangerous, heretical locomotive. name may be derived from either of the
There are no want of stone defences ' former appellations. The tertiary red,
and fortifications. The port is guarded dish hill is approached by a fine zigzag
to the l. by the “ Ciudadula” and the road constructed by Roncali. The su
fort San Carlos. The former, destined to perb fortifications are very strong,
oppress, not toprotect them, was erected
shaped in an irregular pentagon, and
in 1715 by the French under Philip V., well provided with cisterns and case
as a Bastile to cage the wild Catalans mates. The panorama, with the pros;
and terrorize the citizens. In a mili trate city at its feet and mercy, is mag
tary point of view it is of no great nificent. In the War of the Succession
value, being commanded by Montjuich. this apparently inaccessible and im
The Bourbon, in order to erect it, pregnable fortress was surprised and
razed 37 streets, 3 churches, and 2000 taken, Sept. 14, 1705, by Lord Peter
houses. The form is pentagonal, laid borough, one of the most brilliant feats
out after the system of Vauban. There of that chivalrous commander, the Don
is a spacious esplanade, barracks, Quixote of history. This result of
and chapel inside, designed by Ron deep design and daring is now as
cali, capable of containing 8000 men; cribed, by Spaniards, to “ the acci
but in 1808 garrisoned by only 20! dent ” of a bomb falling on a powder
This citadel, an abomination in the magazine ll (Madoz, i. 590.) Mean
eyes of the town’s folk, is a bridle in time by some other accident it was sur
their mouths, and prevents thecity’s in rendered to the French by Mina, Nov.
creasing to its full commercial growth: 2, 1823, after only a sham-fight! The
' hence the constant attempts to pull it truthful details of Peterborough’s feat,
down. 'l‘he cortinas del Rey, y dz la more romantic than fiction, and which
Reyna, which face the town were de entailed the conquest of Barcelona and
molished in Oct., 18,41, when the muni the kingdom of Valencia, are given by
cipality, having first promised Zabala Lord Mahon, in his 4th chapter of the
to protect it, actually led the way in History of that war. For the oflicial
the destruction, each member carrying documents consult Dr. Friend-’s Ac,
away a stone in triumph ! count, p. 46, 2nd ed. London, 1707 ;
To compensate for the district de and Capt. Carleton’s Military Memoirs,
stroyed by Philip V., one Pedro Cer p. 96. London, l728,—a work incor
mefio was employed in 1755-78 by the rectly attributed to Daniel De Foe.
Marques de la Mina to raise this new Lord Peterborough was the beau
suburb called Barcelonetr. The streets ideal of a partisan leader and the spoilt
- '1‘ 3
'1'

418 noure 46.—BA1lCE.LONA TO URGEL. Sect. VI. '


child of both Victory, Mars, Venus, their places some 6 days beforehand, and
and Minerva ; generous, chivalrous, having visited the salt-mines, strike
and eccentric, and fond of glory as a off from Manresa, and take up the
Nelson, no one ever better understood diligence on the high road at Iguulada.
the Spaniards, and had his counsels Those going to France, and wishing to
been followed he would have placed the see the Pyrenean portion of Catalonia,
Archduke Charles on the throne ; but may extend the excursion to Urgel,
he was thwarted by the incapacity of falling into the high road either at
that dull Austrian, by the slowness of Figueras or Gerona.
the Germans, and bickerings among Monsen-at by itself may be conve
the English. No sooner had he retired niently visited by going in one of the
in disgust than things went wrong, and diligences to Madrid, setting down at
ended in the defeats of Almanza and the Meson de la jumada, 1 L. from Es
Villa Viciosa. parraguera; proceeding thence to Col
It was from thesebatteries thatBarce bato, putting up at the Postal non, or
lona was bombarded in the “ Lesseps” Posada Nueoa, a comfortable inn kept
insurrection, 1842 ; and again in the by Pedro Bacarisa, a worthy man and
P/'0n'mcit1mient0 ofl8-13. The Atarazaexcellent guide, who can procure
nos, or arsenal below, were constructed
Bengal lights for the Cueva, and
by Jaime the Conqueror, for the royal donkeys and mules for the ascent to the
navy, and finished in 1243. The convent (3 h.), and to the hermitage
foundry was added in 1378 ; 8. portion San Geronimo, and other “lions;” re
of it yet remains. It was much im turning to Barcelona by the same
proved under Charles III. by one route.
Mziriz, a Swiss. The rambling ill~fur
nished establishments and barracks
cover a large space, and have been ROUTE 4-6.—BARCELONA T0 URGEL.
erected from time to time. The Silo Molins dcl Bey ' . . 3
do las Arrrl/18 is more extensive than the Martorell . . 2 5
usual supply of arms or ammunition in Monserrat . . . . - 3 8
it; the heraldic arms of Barcelona are, Manresa . . . . . 4 12
Suria . . . . . . 4 16
or, 4 bars gules, with St. George's cross (lardona . . 3 19
argent. These were the bearings of the Sulsona . . . . 3 22
old counts, and are said to have been Oliana . . . . . . 3 .. 25
assumed by Wilfred el velloso (he had Orgnfia . . . . - . 5 .. 30
Urgel . . . . . . 4} .. 3-it
hair on the soles of his feet): after a
battle with the Normans he drew his This entire tour, full of interest to
bloody fingers over his shield—a truly ' the naturalist, artist, and sportsman,
soldier-like blazon ; cruor /Lorridu t2'nre can only be ridden. From Urgel it
rat arma. may be extended into the Spanish Py
renees. As the accommodations are
COMMUNICATIONS WITH BARCELONA, alpine, take local guides, and attend to
AND Excunsions. the provend. The summer months are
There is much talk of railroads to best for this excursion. The mountain
Tortosa, Pedralbes, and Zaragoza; roads are bad and intricate. In the
meanwhile there are frequent public plains a tedious communication is kept
conveyances on the high roads which up by galeras and cwabas.
centre in Barcelona, while regular The traveller should leave Barcelona
steamers ply up the coast to Marseilles by the Puerta de Santa Madrona, as the
in about 24 h., and down to Cadiz, guns of Moujuich salute the rising
touching at the principal maritime sun; retrace the route to Molins del
cities between each tcrrninus. Rey (p. 407). At Jlfitrtorell, Tolobris,
No one should omit to make the Posadu de la Cruz,--is a bridge over the
excursion to the monastery M'0ns_e1-rat Llobregat, which is attributed to Han
and the salt-mines of Oardona. Those nibal by the learned, and to the devil,
proceeding to Zaragoza may secure as usual, by the vulgar. The pointed
Catalonia. ROUTE 46.—ES PARRAG UERA—-SOMATENFLQ. 419
centre arch, steep and narrow to pass, Pedro Bacurisa up the mountain, which
I33 feet wide in the span, is a work of after all is the grand object, although
the Moors ; the triumphal arch is Ito the Convent, the ciadle of Jesuitism, is
man: however corroded by time the now laid in ruin ; more so indeed than
foundations are perfect, and wrought the evil spirit hatched in that den.
with bossage masonry, as at Merida and The extraordinary mountain is called
Alcantara. There is much such another Monserrat, quasi “ Mons Serratus,”
over the Tech, at Ceret, also ascribed I15/mwm, and it is, indeed, jagged as
to his Satanic majesty, the Pontifex a saw. _The legends say that it was
maximus of the Peninsula. Accord thus rent at the moment of the cruci
ing to an inscription, this bridge at fixion. lt rises an isolated grey mass,
Martorell was built by Hannibal, 535 chiefly of pudding-stone, being some
U.C. in honour of Amilcar. It was 8 L. in circumference. The pinnacles
restored in 1768 by Charles_ Ill. range about 3800 feet high. The out
After passing the river Noya, which line is most fantastic, consisting of
flows down from lgualada into the cones, pyramids, buttresses, nine-pins
Llobregat, the mountain skeleton Mon sugar-loaves, which are here jumbled
serrat rises nobly out of its wooded by nature in a sportive mood. Justly,
base: the convent, with its cypresses therefore, did the convent bear on its
and gardens, is soon seen in the mid seal a cluster of hills, crowned by a
way height. saw, a crosier, and a mitre. More than
Esp<v-mguem, 6 L. from Barcelona, 200 ditlerent plants grow here. The
Pop. 2500, is a dingy, dirty town, of box-trees are magnificent: from these
solid houses in a pleasant, healthy val the monks carved spoons, which,
ley. The window ornaments and fine stained red, were sold to the lean pil
projecting-roofsotiitsare quite Arragon grims to assist digestion, and as nothing
ese. The celebrated sul hur-baths of eaten out of them ever disagreed, such
La PIMIJZ are close by, an most pictur spoons might grace a lord mayor’s
esquely situated. The high road to feast. On the Virgin’s day, Sept. 8,
Zaragoza keeps to the rt. through sometimes 3000 people went up to her
Col/2 ttu and I}rw.vh : at the shrine. The Catalans believed that
latter site the
Catalan peasantry first defeated the this high place was selected as the
French. Schwartz was sent, June 5, throne on earth for the queen of
1808, by Duhesme to terrorise Man heaven and angels. No wonder the
resa, where the standard of Catalan monks, as says Risco, writing in 1774
resistance had first been hoisted. The (E. S. xxviii. 43), became the Virgin
blundering Swiss lost a day at Marto queen’s “ own regiment, and the her
rell; thus time was given for the mits her advanced sentinels and skir
som tten, or tocsin, to be rung, and the mishers ;” nor had the Evil One, until
armed peasantry collected, headed by a the French invasion, the slightest
merchant named Francisco Riera, when chance.
Schwartz, taking fright at a drum There are many ascents, all easy, and
fitted for monastic corpulence and in
mer~boy’s tattoo, and fancying that he
was met by regular troops, fell back activity, but the roads to convents and
when he ought to have advanced. places of pilgrimage have always been
The Catalan _querriZler0s, called S'om;¢ made smooth in Spain, while com
tenes, from this bell, were always re merce toiled as it could on rough
nowned for the unwarlike warfare of mules and over rougher roads. As the
border fom_r/ ; for such is the meaning heights are gained, the views become
of another of their names Alm<>g<wtzres, more extensive, sweeping over the sea
frontier soldiers, Arabice G/uzwura; to Manrcsa and the Pyrenees. Herc
others derive the Catalan word from and there, perched like nests of the
som attents, we are ready; the answer solitary eagle, are the ruins of former
given to the summons at each house, hei-mitagcs, burnt by Suchet’s troops;
1:ia'fo/‘a, 001116 forth. the extensive convent is placed under
From Colbatoproceeduhderthecareof | a tremendous rocky screen, on a sort
-1; "'
420 ROUTE -’l6.—-MONSERRAT—I.EGEND OF RIQUILDA. _Sect. VI.
of esplanade, overlooking the Llobre then founded, which in 976 was con
gat, which flows deep below. The ride verted into a Benedictine convent.
from Barcelona takes from 10 to 12 h. The image rested on the primitive
As we reached the portal the vesper altar nearly 700 years, until a new
bell of the monk, and the distant gun chapel was built in 1592, to which it
fire booming from Monjuich, told that was removed, July ll, 1599, by Philip
the sun had set, and that another day ll. in person : there it remained until
was numbered with the past. We were 1835, when the convent was suppressed,
hospitably received by the monks,who and it was brought down. It is rudely
had a range of l)11ll(l1.'.lgS to lodge pil carved out of dark wood, and holds the
grims gratuitously. Now reform has child in its lap. “ None, however,"
swept away both monk and welcome, says the ‘ Compendio ’ (p. 28), “ can
although a sort of indifferent accom dare to look at it long,” and the monks,
modation is to be had for the male in dressing and undressing it, always
sex only, being paid for, from the averted their eyes (Villafane, 355) :
scanty inmates, who show the present so the radiancy of Hecate’s image
abomination of desolation. Bring your dazzled all beholders (Pliny,xxxvi. 5).
provend. Equally brilliant-were its dresses and
The entrance of the old edifice, with trinkets, which rivalled those of Del
some crumbling sepulchres, ruined phos of old; for the pious endeavoured
cloisters, gardens, walks, are overrun to conciliate a female intercessor by
with nettles. At the portal was once a those gifts which are most agreeable
hospital with cordials ready for sick to the sex, forgetting the lowly sim
bodies, and a shop for the sale of plicity which formed the sweet essence
beads and amulets for the comfort of of the blessed Virgin when alive; how
weak souls. Moreover, as above all ever, the favours which the image be
the building rocks rise of a terrific stowed here in return were commensu
perpendicular, a mass was always said rate with the rank of the donor and the
to the Virgin to prevent their falling value of the present: thus to Margaret,
on the convent, which a portion once daughter of Charles V., it bowed its
did, and destroyed the intirmary: the head. So the pagan statue of Mem
chapel is now sadly desecrated. The non, in Egypt, twice saluted Sabina,
Retublo was carved by Esteban Jordan; the wife of Adrian. Blessed souls
the magnificent Reja is by Christobal frying in purgatory were got out to a
de Salamanca, I578. On this site (see dead certainty, if their living relations
the mural inscription), in 1522, Loyola only caused masses to be said before it
watched before the Virgin, previously and paid for (Comp°- 101). Thus, in
to dedicating himself to her as her 1740, the soul of Pedro Coll, a day
knight, and the founding his order of labourer in life, and transported in
Jesuits: he laid his sword on her altar, death for l4 years to fire and brimstone,
which is now preserved in El Belem at was '1-escued, and appeared visibly,
Barcelona. “ like a piece _of burnt toast" (Comp°'
The pilgrim now stands in front of 106). Night and day lights blazed
the “ Great Diana” of the Mountain; the before the graven image, in 74 precious
miraculous image itself was made by St. lamps,which the piousFrench removed
Luke, and brought to Barcelona in the as positively pagan.
year 50 by St. Peter. At the Moorish The grand miracle was the most
invasion in 7l7 the Goths hid it in the ancient of all, but this is usual, for in
hill, where it remained until 880, when proportion as the people were ignorant,
some shepherds were attracted to the grosser cheats were palmed upon them
spot by heavenly lights and singing by the cunning monks : thus how poor
angels ; thereupon the bishop of Vique, and fiat is modern hagiography when
guided also by a sweet smell, found the compared to the rich and truly golden
image in a cave, but as it refused to legends of old Voragine ! The legend
move, a chapel was built over it, where of Montserrat runs thus : Towards the
it remained 160 years. A nunnery was end of the 9th century the devil entered
Catalo/zia. ROU IE 46.—Tlll-J HILL OF MOXSERRAT. 421
the body of Riquilda, daughter of Wil deceived by a nebulous Juno. Those
fred el 1'cl[o.~*0, so the father sent her to who have read the ‘Guardian’ (No.
Juan Guarin, the hermit of the Vir 148) will find all this miracle forestalled
gin’s cave, who was renowned for ex by the Orientals in their Santon Barsisa.
pelling the Evil One. 'l‘he temptation Compare also the Italian legend of S.
was too great ; and in one moment the Giovanni Boccadoro (l2mo. Lucca,
exorciser cancelled a chastity of a cen 1823), and Mrs. Jameson’s luculent
tury's duration. The dread of dis account in ‘Legen Art’ (ii. 317).
covery of his first crime led to the But for what true Barcelonese believers
perpetration of a second, and he next believe consult the authorized ‘ His
cut the throat of his violated victim, toria rerduderu de Juan Guarin,’ -tto.
and fled to Rome. There the pope Barcelona, 1778.
ordered him to go back on all fours, The curious may collect some of the
and never to look up until pardoned by early catalogues of the miracles worked
Heaven. Juan became a Bnzn, a graz by the Virgcn de 1ll0nserrat’s image,
ing monk, until the hair on his body which were printed for pilgrims, and
grew thicker than even on the shaggy sold by the monks. Monserrat had been
count’s foot sole. He then lost the use the Subiaco of Spain, and the press
of speech, and became altogether an from whence some of the earliest
orang outang. Thus, in the poetical works issued in the 15th century. The
mythology of the ancients, the cup of most authentic isthe ‘Libra de la Historiu
Circe, i. e. brutal sensuality, converted 3; 1111'!/15/I-as,’ compiled by Pedro de
man into a beast. At last Wilfred, when liurgos, abbot from 1512 to 36. We
out hunting, caught him, and tran possess the black letter edition, Barce
sported him into a zoological den, lona, 1550, in which only 288 miracles
where he remained the full term of 7 are reported. They increased so daily
years, when a voice from heaven told that new editions were called for in
him to look up; he did so, and, as in a 1605, 27, and 71.
fairy tale, at once recovered his human For fuller and authentic history con
shape, senses, and sainthood. Guarin sult ‘ Compcndio Histurico,’ Juan dc
now led the count to the mountain, Villafafie, fol,, Mad., 1740, p. 349; the
where Riquilda re-appeared alive, with ‘ Corom'c~' of Antonio Yepes, vol. iv.;
only a red rim on her throat, which, and the ‘ Compendio Historical,’ Manuel
according to Villafane, (p. 357), was Texero, Barcelona; and Esp. Sag.
like a necklace de grana, and rather xxviii. 35; and for the legend of
becoming than otherwise. Some Ca Quarin, the different editions of the
talan theologians contend that her ‘ Histm-11¢ de la Perla,’ Argaiz, Barce
virginity was ~miraculously restored, lona, I511, 92, 1627.
" which, if true, is the only instance A morning should be devoted to
even in Spanish legends, and impossi scrambling about the mountain, and
ble, according to the great doctor of examining its geology, botany, and
their church; for St. Jerome wrote picturesque scenery. The hermitages
thus to his female disciple Eustoqnium: were once 13 in number; each was
—“ Cum omnia possit Deus, suscitare separate, and with difliculty accessible.
virginem non potest post ruinam;” The anchorite who once entered one,
and so Pliny (ii. 7) held, that the only never left it again. There he lived,
power of Olympus over the past, in like things within a cold rock bound,
such cases, was oblivion. Be this alive while all was stone around, and
as it may, at all events, our Riquildathere he died, after a living death to the
became the first abbess"of the convent.world, passed in solitude without love,
the torture of Satan. according to Sta.Te
Other historians are satisfied that Jnan
also was
J who had innocent,
assumed and
his that
form,the resa ; yet these cells were never vacant,
wasdevil,
de
being sought for as eagerly as apart
ceived by an imaginary Riquilda, ments are by retired dowagers in Hamp
which the image of the Virgin had ton Court. Risco says that there were
made out of a cloud, just as Ixion was always a dozen expectants waiting in
Ir

422 acorn 46.—THE HERMITS or MOSSERRAT. Sect. VI.


the convent the happy release of an below as a map; yet lofty as these sites
occupant. Each hermitage had its were, the armed man toiled up to “ rob
name, and some were appropriate, such the hermit of his beads,” and injure
as the Magd tlen and San Dimus the his grey hairs. These retreats satisfied
good thief. To be a hermit, and I3» the Oriental and Spanish tendency to
5|n?y.@;, that is, left to live after his own close a life of action by repose, and a
fashion, exactly suited the self-willed hope to atone for past sensualism by mor
self-isolating Spaniard, who hates dis tifieation. These true papal soldiers
cipline and subjection to any superior. minded not the cowardice of running
The invaders came here often, not away from the battle-brunt,when the real
indeed as pilgrims; they owed a grudge Christian buckles tighter on his armour,
to Monserrat, because the monks had af to fight the good fight, remaining in
forded an asylum to their countrymen the world but not of it, to meet and
clergy who emigrated in 1792. In the conquer the difiiculties. This Spanish
Lettres do Barcelona-, Paris, 1792, p. 123, retreat to the cowl was also a neces
a “Cite;/en” deplores the reception given sary recoil of a system in which the
here to the Pam" Prétre, and enlarges physical predominates over the intel
on the sacred plate, eyeing it with a lectual; for when ofiice, command,
philosophical reflection, “how well it and occupation are gone, when age
would melt;” a hint which was after diminishes powers of usefulness and
wards duly acted on. The Monserrat enjoyment, there is nothing to fall
hill was fortified by Eroles ; but Suchet, back on, no escape from the laborious
in July, 1811, soon gained the height, lassitude of having nothing to do:
when his soldiers amused themselves hence these abodes of penance which
with hunting the hermits like wild offered a new excitement when old
goats in the clifis, and, having butchered stimulants ceased to act, never wanted a
them, proceeded to the convent, plun tenant, since in all ranks, habits, and
dered the altars, hung the monks, intellects, many always have been and
robbed even the poor pilgrims, and are to be found, eager to withdraw,
burnt the fine library. By the loss of youth, love, and war being at an end,
this “Holy Hill” and strong place from the drouth, tumult, glare, and
of refuge all the stores and arms weariness of the world, to fly from the
provided by England for the Spaniards fieshpots of Egypt, and to shelter them
were in reality furnished to the enemy, selves under theshadow of the great rock.
while the moral injury was greater, as This descngaiio or disenchantment, this
the prestige of the Palladium was finding out the “stale, fiat, and unpro
sapped, and the superstitious Catalans fitable ” vanity ofvanities of this world’s
believing that the Queen of Heaven and cheat, is peculiarly Spanish, and has
their Generalisiznc had deserted them, led thousands into solitude—often of the
surrendered to the invaders: a Southern best society—to contemplate calmly
people may, indeed, be animated by the approach of death, and prepare for
the promise of supernatural assistance; it as it approached nearer. Woe to
and the religious stimulant may operate him who too late repents! Thus the
as brandy and double rations do with empire and ambition sick Charles V.
Northerns; but when Juno, Hercules, retired to Yuste, and bartered crowns
and stocks and stones fail, despair is for rosaries away: indeed, those who
the natural re-action,—aide toi, et le had been the most eager to obtain
ciel t’aidera. worldly greatness, were the first to re
All now is desolation. Visit, however, nounce it when acquired, as if their
the rock-walled garden, with the deep fierce joy of the pursuit were buried in
river below—climb up to the Cuena and the grave of possession. Many, doubt
to the crumbling hermitages of Santa less, were less sincere, and hid, under
Ana and San Benito, not forgetting La the mask of retirement and contempt of
R00-t estrec/m, a singular fissure; the the world, their wounded vanity and
highest is the San Geronimo. Here the disappointed ambition. The self-love
eye sweeps over Catalonia, spread out and pride of the Spaniard pretends to
Cafctlonia. nou PE -l G.—1IA.\'R!-LSA 423
every thing; and where failure is the From the convent to Manresa is a
result he endeavours to salve it over by picturesque ride of 4 L. ; the descent is
putting forward any excuse but that of alpine, amid rocks, pines, and aromatic
self-unworthiness. Many, no doubt, shrubs. After entering a vine-clad
who had waded through gore to country the road ascends the Llobregat:
foreign conquest, and through petfidy at C/.zstcll_guli, near its junction with
to place and power, fled to these soli the Cardeuer, is Lu Torre dc Brcny, a
tudes from their cankered heaps of fine Roman monument, the origin and
strangely achieved gold to cleanse their object of which are unknown, for the
bosoms from the perilous stuff, and to interior evidently was never destined
wash their hand from the blood and for habitation: the masonry is solid
soil of manhood. To some, these re and well preserved. Observe the frieze
treats were indeed the only safe asylum, and cornice richly adorned with flowers
except the grave, from the execratious and scrollwork, and two lions in the
and revenge of mankind. Such hearts act of pouncing upon a human figure.
may indeed be broken, but like the Manresa soon appears: it was the Ro
shivered ice or crystal, are never to be man Minorisa and capital of the Jace
warmed or softened; they could not tani: the Posadu del ob! is very com
escape from themselves, nor get rid of fortable. Manresa, the central and
their indwelling con1panion—the worm one of the most picturesque cities in
that never dies. Yet these lonely Catalonia, is the chief town of its fer
crags, and their unspeakable solace of tile well-irrigated district: it contains
solitude, were most congenial to all 13,000 busy cloth-making souls, and a
really wounded spirits: here the earth Sen, which, without being a cathedral,
was at their feet, while their hopes and is in dignity higher than a culegiutu,
atfections were set on things above. being presided over by a I‘avo1-dc, a dig
Thus they parted in peace, weaned nitary equal to four canons. Jlftlll/'¢‘.>'~1
from the world, was the first to ring out the Somut(m—»
“ to mourn o'er sin, the tocsin bell—after l\Iurat’s butcheries
And find for outward Eden lost, a Paradise at Madrid on the dos dc mayo: hence
within.” Duhesme, cl Cruel, twice sent his in
Nor can anything he more impressive cendiaries Schwartz and Chabran, who
than the Ralf;/to loci, which these moun were both repulsed at Bruch; but
tain retreats inspire, pruwntiorcrn con March 30, 1811, Marshal Macdonald
spicilnus damn. Oh, crafty Vatican ! deep came in person with the torch, and set
fathomer of the wants and weakness the example, by firing his own quarter,
of human nature, how thy wise framers riding to a height to enjoy, like Nero,
have provided a tubula post naufmgimn, the “ beautiful sight.” More than 800
a scnectutis nidulus, things wanting houses, with churches and manufac
to our hastily-constructed refugeless tories, were then burnt; nor were even
Protestantism, which rejects rather than the hospitals spared; and in vain the
woos approach, which appeals to our physicians produced to General Salmc
strong head and cold reason, not to the the actual agreement, signed by French
broken heart and warmest feelings l The and Spanish commanders, that the asy
roofless cells are now untenanted; the lums of suffering humanity should be
works of pious men are swept away; sacred. The sick were torn from their
all is ruined save the rnountain-ma beds, the wards sacked and burnt;
sonry and the sunsets of nature. They “ many patients were butchered, and
are indeed glorious: down to darkness even children in the orphan asylum
goes the orb of fire, and his last rays infanxously abused.” See for historic
gilding the ruins enhance the melan details, Southey (28), Toreno (xv.), and
choly sentiment, where Schepeler (iii. 402}, Madoz (xi. 187).
But the perpetrators met with their re
—-—- “ No godly Ercmlte, ward, for the Somatenes and peasants,
Such as on lonely Athos, now is seen
\\’atching at eve upon the giant height when they beheld the face of heaven
Which looks o'er wares so blue, skies so serene.” reddened with indignation at this blood
42-1 ROU l‘l£ -l G .——)l A.\'Rl:l€A-—IGNAClO LOYOLA. Sect. VI.
and incendiarism, rose in arms, and which, no doubt, truth still dwells;
the invaders fled, losing many in their the pulverised stone of this cave is
retreat (Nap. xiii. 4). . The Catalan given in cases where we prescribe
knife avenged Jlfanres/1, and the black James’s powders; here also is his
ened ruins yet remain a silent but cry crucifix, from whose wounds blood
ing record of the past, and a warning i streamed forth, a common occurrence
for the future; but Macdonald began with the graveu images of antiquity
this trade early at Frosinone, where he (Livy, xxii. 36, et passim).
massacred the inhabitants, and burnt Ignacio Loyola, born in Guipuzcoa
their bodies with the timber of their in 1491, began life as a soldier, and
own homes. was wounded by the French during
The Sen is a noble church, although the siege of Pamplona in l52l. He
the invaders smashed much of the su was cured by St. Peter, who came
perb painted glass, overturned the down from heaven on purpose (Ribad.
pulpits, and made the chancel a cavalry ;ii. 387). During his illness he so
barrack. The edifice is built of a, pored over the lives and legends of
brown stone with a fine belfry-tower ‘saints, that he went mad, as Don
and open crown-like termination; the Quixote did by perusing chivalrous
exterior of the Coro is divided by romances. He determined on a spiri
Gothic niches and painted with bishops tual knight-errantry, and set forth to
and saints in a coarse fresco. The high teach a religion to others of which
altar, with its jasper crypt chapel, andhe knew nothing himself, and, first,
the usual Saracens’ heads under the did penance a year in this cave, the
organ, repeat the Barcelonese type. Virgin having actually reconceived
The font is very elegant: observe the him (Ribad. ii. 408). After dedicating
tomb of Canon Molet and that of a. himself to her at Monserrat, he col
dying monk in the cloisters; notice the lected a few disciples and proceeded
rose window and painted glass with the to Rome to ask for ‘Papal permission
Ascension of the Virgin: the rich red to found his society, our Saviour
and blue colours are splendid. Manresa “appearing to him in person, to pro
is a quaint, picturesque, scrambling mise his assistance.”
town, with tortuous streets and old Loyola, an enthusiast, yet sincere,
fashioned houses. The views are became a tool in the hands of the
charming; from the narrow old bridge crafty Diego Laynez, Xavier Salmcron,
the cathedral rises grandly above gush and of Acqua Viva especially. He it
ing cascades of the Cardener, amid was who put forth the Excrcitutorium,
ravines, rocks, gardens, cypresses, the manual of ascetic treatises, said to
walls, and Prout-like buildings. be revealed to Loyola by the Virgin
The Guava de San Ignacio is the great herself: but these Exercises were
lion, and the view from the esplanade almost a reprint of an older work of
is glorious. The jagged Monserrat Garcia Cisneros, which was bought up
towers in the distance, from whence in consequence by the Jesuits. This
the Virgin smiled continually at the trio composed the truly Spanish code,
Jesuit saint while doing penance in the disciplina arcani, or constitutions
his cave. The convent built over it is which embody the principle of the
of the bad period of I660, with Ionic mystery of iniquity: these, which it
decorations—clumsy angels and cor was given out were corrected by the
rupt architecture. The portal of ' Virgin herself, appealed to the sym
the Cleva was, however, left un pathies of Spaniards, the then dominant
finished in consequence of the expul people of Europe, and were based on
sion of the Jesuits. The cave is lined the old Castilian military and monastic
with marbles and poor sculpture, by obedience. “They enlisted soldiers into
Carlos Gran: observe at the altar the the camp of Mary,” to combat against
saint in this cave writing his book, civil and religious liberty, which the
and his first miracle, the saving a boy’s Bible translated by Luther was giving
fowl from a well, at the bottom of to mankind. Their object was to up
C'atal0m'a. nouns 46.-—MANI;l~;€A——'l‘HE JESUITS. 425
hold Popery, not Christianity, and thus and temporal power, and the axiom
to govern mankind through religion; that the end justifies the means, were
they purposed to revive the crusades, their principles. The shrewd old man
to restore to the tiara in the new world of the seven hills saw the value of his
what it was losing in the old. They new and most exclusive allies, his" own”
created unscrupulous agents; their regiment, his personal body-guard; for
education was the teaching men not to the Jesuits were subject to no diocesan
think; they required a slavish obe jurisdiction, but to him alone, so they
dience of the intellect, and left the were constituted by a bull in 1540. The
understanding without freedom, the order rapidly extended. Loyola having
heart without virtue. As printing, been the “ general” of his legions for 15
which gave wings to the Bible, was years, died July 31, 1556, aged 63, and
shattering the fabric of the Vatican, was canonized by Gregory XV., March
the Jesuits monopolising the lever of 12, I622. It has been calculated that
education became missionaries abroad, the Jesuits’ property in Spain, under
tutors, and teachers of the rising youth Charles III., exceeded three millions
at home, and thus not only disarmed sterling: quiet and gentle as doves,
knowledge of its power, but made it and cunning as serpents, they were
minister to its own suicidal destruc too deep to ofl'end by the ostentation
tion, and become a tool for the cany of their power, and were satisfied with
ing on that implacable, exterminating the reality.
contest, which Rome has ever warred, Loyola, who laid his iron sword on
wars, and will war against all civil and the altar at Monserrat, gave a more
religious liberty. Accordingly the owerful weapon to Rome: there was
active, intellectual Jesuits infused a its handle, while its point was every
new life into the fat indolence of the where. The subtle Jesuits soon be
monastic system. They raised cheer came too mighty for kings, and even
ful, gorgeous temples, and abjured the popes; and the order was annulled
gloomy cowl and routine of the cloister, July 21, 1773, by Ganganelli. The
now getting obsolete. Men of this Jesuits were expelled from Spain
world rather than of the next, they March 31, 1767, under circumstances
adopted a purely mundane policy, of of singular Punic perfidy and Iberian
the earth, earthy. They professed to cruelty. How Aranda managed this
secure the salvation of all who would coup d'état with Charles Ill. is de
only implicitly trust to them, and thus tailed by Blanco White, ‘Doblado
removed heavy responsibility, which Letters,’ p. 445. Yet Jesuitism, it has
depresses the soul, and placed it on vel been said, may feign death, but it
vet: their redeeming merit, according never really dies; its immortality is
to Brillat Savarin, was (after colonizing secured in the weakness of human
and civilizing the new world) the dis nature. "
covery of the turkey and its intro No school of art ever painted the
duction to the trufile; but gastronomy Jesuit like that of his own country:
owes everything to the church. Roelas gave to the life the stealthy
Their nomenclature and regulations grimalkin courtier, while Ribalta, the
were also military. The order was a imitator of Sebastian del Piombo,
“compania,” a company, the Stlllldllfd took the Schidoni look of these “ men
was “a material heart bleeding, and in black from under the ground ;" his
crowned with thorns.” They were favourite subject was the sepulchral
commanded, not by a Prior, but by a vision of Loyola, when the Saviour
“Gencral.”_ Loyola, an old soldier, appeared to him bearing his cross,
knowing what incumbrances females bidding him go to Rome and be of
were in a fighting well-disciplined good cheer, Ego vobis Roma: propitius
camp, urged the pope to decree that ero. Loyola assumed for the costume of
there never should be Jesuit nuns. his order the usual dress worn in Spain
Bad faith—nulla fides seruandu est here by the secular clergy, which consists
tic1's— and an insatiable lust for spiritual of a black gown and a huge hat, a
.'-:

426 ROUTE 46.—CARDONA—-RAMON NONAT. Sect. VI.


yard long, turned up at the sides. It 219). The salt pinnacles shoot forth
IS the dress of Don Basilio in the Mar from a brownish earth, like a quarry
riage of Figaro; none, however, can of marble dislocated by gunpowder.
understand the fine arts of Spain, as The colours of these saline glaciers
connected with the Jesuits, without vary extremely, and are brilliant in
reading the church-"mthorized life of proportion as the weather is clear.
the founder, ‘ Vida del Santa, Nierem When the sun shines they look like
berg,’ Mad. 1636, 3rd ed. There are stalactites turned upside down, and
many others; one by ll. L. Ortiz, fol., are quite prismatic, with rainbow tints
Sevilla, I679; and another by Fr°' de of reds and blues. It seems a Sindbad
Mattos, fol., 1718. valley of precious stones. Some of the
For Manresa, consult Epitome His grottos look like fairy cells, lined as
torico de 111., Juan Gaspar Roig, 4to., it were with preserved fruits, sparkling
Barcelona, 1694; and of its saints by with crystallised sugar. There is a.
Juan Gemes, 8vo. 1607. peculiar mixed colour, which is called
Those who only intend visiting the arlequivw. Visit the furad mico, the
salt-mines at G1l7‘d07’Lll, must allow 2hole of the squirrel, said to be a mile
days from Manresa to go and return; in depth. The miners make little
then they may ride to I;/uuluda to take articles of this salt, as is done with the
up the diligence, leaving Mouser:-at on fluor-spars in Derbyshire, which never
their 1. hand: a guide is necessary. liquefy in the dry air of Spain.
Passing through the straggling village Crossing the Cardener by a good
of Guardiola, amid vines and pine bridge, we ascend to Curdonu—Ubeda
groves, the track winds sometimes Aa steep town of some 2500 souls.
along the beds of streams, at others Posadzt del Sol, good. This strong hill
over a Scotch-looking country. The fort was never taken by the French:
peasantry are poor and laborious; the thus i‘n 1711 it beat back Philip V.;
farm-houses solid. Quitting the mise and again in Oct. 1810 it baflied Mac
rable Odena, with its marble rocks and donald and his incendiaries, who fled,
polygonal tower, we reach the high harassed by the infuriated peasantry.
road to Aragon, through which the It has a gothic cole_qiut~, dedicated to
Zaragoza and Barcelona diligences San Vicente, in which are some sepul
pass at the clean town of Igualada, chres of Ramon Folch and his wife,
and the mule may be abandoned. whose ancient but now degraded palace
The route from Manresa to S/tria yet remains. Observe the carvings of
runs through a wild country, where the organ 1608, and a Virgin by Vil
pine-trees are mingled with vines. lodomat, at the high altar. The_cita
Slwia, an ancient-looking, unwhite del contains the chapel where Ramon
washed town, rises on a hill over the Nnnat, one of the greatest of Catalo
Cardener, whose stream and valley is nian saints, died. He is the tutelar
passed through, until, ascending a man-midwife of Spain, and divides
stony rise, cu,-(lam appears, with its practice with the Cinta of Tortosa.
castle towers, long lines of fortifica He is called Nonat because, like Mac
tions, straggling houses, cypress duff, he was “ from his mother’s womb
gardens, and arched buildings. The untimely ripped," non-natus_ Thus
celebrated and inexhaustible mine lies born in 1198, he became a monk, was
below, to the 1., before reaching the called cl S mto fruile, and made a car
bridge. An order, always granted, is dinal by Gregory I_X. He also cured
necessary from the steward of the women who were beaten by their hus
Duke of Medina Celi. The mine is bands; and having one rainy day given
an absolute mountain of salt, emerging his red hat to an old beggar, the
in a jagged outline, nearly 500 feet Virgin appeared and offered him a
high, and a league in circumference; chaplet of roses, which he ungallantly
it differs from the mine at Minglam'lla, declined, thereupon the Saviour came
as being on the surface: these are the in person to give him his own crown
mite; ogun-ru mentioned by Strabo (iii. of thorns (Ribad. ii. 603). He died at
Catalonia. noun: 46.-—soI.s0xA—Unoi:L. 427

Cardona, in August 1240, the angels in game. Solsona, the capital, rises
attending his couch. In spite of the above the Riu Negre. Pop. 2000:
hot weather, his body for 15 days placed in the heart of the hilly coun
afterwards perfumed the whole castle. try, it has long been head-quarters in
A quarrel now arose as to who was to turbulent times, and the scene of
have and keep his precious remains, sundry bush-fightings in the earliest
which was thus settled by King Jaime: struggle. The square old castle, with
He ordered the fragrant corpse to be put its round towers at the angles, on an
on the curate’s blind mule, and to re eminence commands the town. The
main for good wherever the animal Gothic cathedral of the llth century
might depose it. In these times, when was burnt by Macdonald in Oct. 1810.
' the possession of a relic attracted pil The principal portal, finished in 1769,
grims and pious benefactors, such a contained a statue of the Assumption
sure. source of income was always a of the Virgin; and the Capilla tie Niles
bone of contention among the local tra S'1.'1'Zur:l del Claustro was the holiest
clergy; again mules and asses con of the chapels. The episcopal palace
stantly play an important part in Spain, built for Bishop Sala in 1779, by one
being judiciously called in as arbi Francisco Pons, has the facade towards
trators, although it only occurred to the Plaza overdone with pilasters and
the wag Aristophanes to im‘:_1/ine such ornaments. The trafiic of Solsona is
an appeal (Ran. 159), as a ludicrous in iron, and the women, like most in
comparison, m; ¢-ym nurrngtn. Catalonia, are industrious knitters.
The blind mule being_ laden with Leaving Solswm we cross the Salado ;
Don Ramon, proceeded with its bur this brackish trout river falls into the
den, the church bells ringing of their beautiful Segre, whose stream and
own accord as it passed, which Spanish valley is now ascended to U/"gel: rising
bells often do or did (see Velilla). It in France, it flows down the valley of
rested at Portell, the place where he Pmgcerrla‘, under the rocky spurs, to
was not born, and there the body now is. Urgel, and thence by the plains on to
A convent was forthwith founded, and Lérida. At Oliana, on the Segre, in
was much visited by pious females, its hill-girt basin or cucnca, the roads
who constantly returned cured of bar to Urgel, Barcelona, and Lérida branch
renness. Thus Nonat both removed ofi': here is a good bridge, and another
sterility and facilitated parturition. at 0/yqtuid, half-way between Solsona
Benedict XlII., a Catalan, who had no and Urgel: near this the rocky gorge
objection to help a local legend, and narrows, and the river has forced a
thus do a little empeilo or Spanish job, most romantic pass, which is spanned
canonised him in 1414. More ample by 3 alpine bridges—Los tres puentes,
details will be found in his church dels tres Ponts.
authorised biographies, by Pedro Thence to Urgel—the Seo, or bishop
Merino, 4to., Salamanca, and Fr“' G. ric, is a most ancient see, founded in
Fanlo, 4to., Zaragoza, 1618. The 820; it lies below the Pyrenean spur,
saints Celeterio and Hemeterio who lie between the sweet rivers Valira and
in the crypt of Sun Jlllguel, are also Segre, which, distilled from their moun
much relied upon here. tain alembic, unite, the former coming
The sportsman and lover of wild down the Swiss-like valley of Amlorrn,
nature may now push on to the moun of which the bishop of Urgel is en
tains. Take a guide and fill the titled the sovereign prince. The town
alfoijas, as these alpine recesses are is commanded by the citadel on the
rarely visited save by the smuggler. height, Las Horcas, or “Gallows Hill ;”
The Llobregat abounds in trout. Ad its governor beat back the French in
vancing, therefore, we reach Solsona I was
1794,terribly
by whom, in revenge, the city
(the old Setelix), made a bishopric in sacked. The plains be
1593 by Philip II. Towards Urgel low, the granary of Catalonia, are
the plains are fertile in fruit and corn; irrigated by a canal planned by Juan
to the N. the hills and woods abound Soler, This intricate country is
428 norms 47.——-URGE.L T0 moxrwrs. Sect. VI.
always the heart and centre of Catalan Orgafui. It however floated up, and
outbreaks. Here the Royalists took up was buried by peasants at the Coll de
the cause of Ferdinand VII. in 1822; 2V<¢r_</0, the curate Ferrer having re
here Romagosa long held out against turned to Berga to assure the C0nde’s
Mina, who, trained to exterminate the partisans that he had seen him de
French, now tried his hand against livered safely in France-—cosas dc
his countrymen. This Seo again, in Esp'zi1'/1! These classical scenes of
1827, became the head-quarters of a civil contention again, in i838, wit
Carlist insurrection against the same nessed sundry bush-fightings between
Ferdinand VII. because he was getting the Carlist guerillero Tristani and the
too liberal, which the Conde de Espaola regular Christinist general De Meer.
extinguished in a deluge of blood. From Urgel, a central point, many
This adventurer of French origin rose wild and picturesque passes lead over
during the Peninsular war, nobody the Pyrenees into France; the shortest
exactly knowing how; not that he ascends the Segre.
behaved over well, for his misconduct
at Salamanca and Ciudad Rodrigo
saved the French from utter destruc Ronrn 47.—UnonL T0 Monrmls.
tion. Cunning enough afterwards to Puente del Bar . . 2%
make Ferdinand VII. his polar star, he Bellver . . . . . 21} .. 5
served him through fair and foul with Puigcerdai . . . . . 3 .. 8
Llivia . . . . . . . 1 .. 9
the implicit obedience of the old Montluis . . . - . . 3 .. 12
Spaniard; he obeyed to the letter the
king’s private orders, while he treated This charming river and mountain
with contempt those of his ministers. ride seems made for the artist, angler,
During his patron's life he was an and sportsman. _ The Segre runs up to
absolute autocrat in Catalonia, well the Garganta, or gorge enclosed be
fitted by his iron rule to keep down that tween the S.W. tail of the Canigti spine
stiff-necked turbulent province. At and the Carol to the N., which is gene
the king’s death he served Don Carlos, rally called the Cor-regimiento de Paig
his successor, with equal zeal, and then cerdni. The valley of Cerdaaia, Cere
upheld the very cause which a few tania, is bounded S. by Berga and N. by
years before he had put down; but France. Like many of these limitrophe
mas pesu el Rey que la sangre, He him Pyrenean districts it became inde
self was thus murdered at last. His pendent soon after the Moorish invasion
head-quarters were at Urge], while in 731. After; long struggles against
those of the provincial Junta were near its neighbour the county of Cerdafia
Berga, 10 L. SE. Oct. 2!‘, l839, he merged in 1196 with Barcelona, and
quitted Bcrga to attend this Junta at was divided by the peace of the Pyre
Avia, distant 1 L., where he was well nees in 1669, when France obtained a
received by his own aide-de-camp, portion, pushing down her territory on
Brigadier Mariano Orteu, and by the the S. or Spanish slope of the moun
curate Ferrer, who, at a given signal, tains, just as the Spaniards retain the
shot him with a pistol. The wounded N. slope in the Valle da Aran, and both
man was then bound on a mule and in defiance of geographical inclinations.
dragged about until Nov. l,when they Bellver—Pulcher Visus—as its name
took ‘him towards the frontier, telling implies, a place of beautiful Swiss-like
him that he was going to be set free views, with some 650 inhabitants, is
“en su puis,” in his own country, in built on a scarped hill over the Segre,
France; then his former friend, Orteu, with an old ruined castle, a collegiate
came up and shot him, the Conde ex church, and a custom-house. Puigcerdzi
claiming, “ Ah Mariano !" The body is the chief town, the head of Spanish
having been sportively stabbed by the Cerdafia (pop. i900), built in the valley,
knives of the rest of the company, and where the Raur and Arabti unite with
tied with stones, was thrown into the the Segre: the trout are fine, and the
Segre, over the Pzwnte de Espia, near shooting wild and excellent, especially
Catalozzia. ROUTE 48.——URGEL T0 TA'RASCO.\' 429
the (lzbra Montaraz, or Bouquetin. It of independence between France and
has a Culegiata and a charming walk, Spain. Geographically considered, the
and is a frontier garrison town, and district ought to belong entirely to
has witnessed the horrors of border France, to which it is subject in civil
warfare. Llivia — Julia Libica —- al matters, being in spirituals under the
though within the French boundary, is jurisdiction of the Bishop of Urgel, a
a Spanish town. Here Santiago first sort of Prince Bishop in a phantom
preached the Gospel to the Jews of palatinate, and nominal republic. The
Spain. Pop. under 1000. It is pret species of President is called the Veguer.
tily situated under its ruined castle, Full particulars will be found in Madoz
and near the source of the Segre, with (i. 288), as also of the working of
a handsome Parroquia. Llicia was France and Spain in their tenancy in
once an episcopal town, but the cathe common. The whole republic may be
dral was entirely destroyed in 732 by some 37 m. in extent by 30 \vide, E.
the Moors. Zllontluis, Mont Louis, is and W.: the Pop. about 5000, either
the French frontier citadel, built on a pastoral peasants, smugglers, or rude
conical hill by Vauban in 1684, in forgers of iron, who look in this pic
order to command the narrow but turesque country like devils in para
easy and much-frequented pass (see dise.
Handbook for France). At Planes, The chief town was originally at San
near Montluis, "is a church, said to be Julmn, where a stone cross marks the
Moorish, earlier than Charlemagne. site; the present one stands with a
and certainly not later than the 10th good bridge on the Ifulir-11, and the town
centy. The second and central pass of Andorra sufiered much during the
is by the Valle dc Andorra. civil wars both from hostile attack and
suspension of commerce, To the rt.
are the heights, and the old Moorish
castle of Carol, a name derived from
Rooms 48.—URo1iL TO Tmsscorr. Carolus, Charlemagne. The Puerto is
SanJulian . . . . . 3 carried over the Col de Puiq Marius,
Andorra . . . . . . 3 .. 6 thence to Hospitalet (see Handbook
Soldeu. - . .‘ . . .3 .. 9 for France, ll. 97). Those who wish
Hospitalet . . . 3 .. 12
Tarascon - . . - 6 .. 18 just to go into France will find Sailin
gowse one of the best of the mountain
This, a bridle-road to Soldeu, is after villages; the wild rocky scenery to
wards carriageable. The pastoral and the hamlets Porta and Poste is quite
picturesque valley of Amiorrrl, a jumble Salvator-Rosa-like.
of hills, enclosed on all sides by the The varied excursions. from Sun
Pyrenean spurs, extends about 7 L. Julian are _full of alpine charms.
long by 6 broad, and is bounded by Escaldos is an irregular picturesque
the French and Spanish ridges, by hamlet, with a fine trout-stream, a
Puigcerdti to the S. and E., by the water-power to the rude iron forges;
Comté de Foix (depart. de l’Ariege) the ore is brought from Carol. The
to the N.,‘and by the Corregimiento hills around the rich alluvial basin of
of Talaru to the W. Watered by the Andorra abound in pine-forests, which
Balira, Ordino, and Os, it is one of the afford fuel; nothing can be prettier
wildest districts of the Spanish Pyre than the distant views of the villages,
nees, abounding in timber, which is embosomed in Woods: at Mont Melons
floated down the Balira and Segre to are three lakes, enclosed by lofty and
Tortosa. _ The name Andorra is derived fantastic walls of rock. Leaving Es
from the Arabic Aldarra, “a place caldos, proceed up the valley of Emb*1
thick with trees,” among which is lire, either to Canillo, or more circuit
found the Cabru Jllontrwaz, with bears, ously by the Val de Arenscl, entered by
boars, and wolves. This valley, ceded a beautiful gorge, and then pass by
in 819, by Louis le Débonnaire, to the the narrow defile to Urdino and Ariege.
Bishop Sisebuto, has maintained a sort I A broken ridge separates Urdino and
480 ROUTES 49, 50.—URGEL TO BONAIGUA AND canon. Sect. VI.
Canillo, where is a curious old church. bregat. Izaak Walton himself could
Thence on by miserable Soldeu, beyond not wish for a prettier district than
which is the frontier line, and by Port this whole ride to Pobla de Lillct, a
de Framiquel, a wild region of Flora, place on the Llobregat of some 1200
to Ax, in the sweet valley of the souls, which the angler may make his
Ariege, in France. The traveller will quarters. The peasants are hard
take a local guide, and attend to the working and simple, and the women,
provend. as all over Catalonia, indefatigable
knitters. The Llobregat flows through
the hamlet; near it is a round temple
dedicated to San Miguel, said to be one
ROUTE 4i9.—UneEL TO Bozumnn. of the 8th centy. The angler may
Castelbé . . . . . 2 hence, skirting the hills, visit the river
Rcmandrin . . . . . 2 .. 4 Fresné, or Freser, at Ribns; and then
Llaborsl . . . . . . 3 .. 7 fish in the Ter to C'a1nprod0'n, a frontier
Tirvia . . . . . . 1 .. 8 town of 500 Inhab., sacked by the
Esterri . . . - . . - 3 .. 11
Valencia . . . . . - {~ .. 1111 French in 1639, and again Oct. 5, 1793.
Mescn de Bonaigua . . . 11; .. 13 Hence the traveller may cross the
Puerta into France to Pratz de Mollo,
This is the western route by the and proceed up the valley of the
Pucrio de Arun. Ascending the pretty Tech, 8 m. to Arles. Now the Canigii,
Ordino is C"¢stellb0', with 250 inhabit rising almost isolated from the Pyre
ants. Remand/‘in is a poor place in the nean chain, spreads forth its spurs
heart Of the hills. At Llaborsi, a hamlet like a fan, and soars a real mountain
of iron-workers, is a good bridge over 9141 feet above the plains of Roussil
the Noguera Pallaresa, which here is lon; the ascent is not diflicult. From
joined by the Cardos. Tiruia is a better Arles, after reaching the top, whence
village, with 400 Inhab. Ester-ri, like the views over sea, river, mountain,
all these places, is a mountain dwell and plain are superb, descend and
ing of hard-working peasants. Va sleep either at the forge ofValmania or
lencia has nothing in common with. the even at Prades. Leaving Arles you
voluptuous city on the sunny coasts: pass by the old watch-tower of Bateres,
it is cold and cheerless, and constantly which looks over the valleys of the
covered with snow, whence the name Tech and Tet; there breakfast; then
Val (le Nea. lts Pile/-to is frequently proceed through pine-woods and rho
impassable. From thence we descend dodendrons to the summit (see Hand
into the Valle de Amn (see Index). book for France).
The whole of this route is savage Those who continue in Spain may
and alpine, and devoid of accommoda descend the Llera from CIl77Lp7‘0(lO7l,
tions. which falls into the Fluvia below Cus
tellfulit. Ripoll (Pop. some 950) was
nearly destroyed in the civil wars,
Ronrn 50.——URGEL TO GERONA. which much injured the magnificent
Benedictine convent built in the l0th
Fornols . . . . . .21 centy. by the Abbot Oliva, and an
Juxent . . . . . . It .. 4
Bagd . . . . . . . 4 .. 8 Escorial from the 9th to the 12th centys.
. Lillet. . . . . . . 2+ .. 101} Here rest the early counts from lVi/frezl
Candebancl . . . . . 24- .. 13
el Velloso, Mir, Suiié, Sinofredo, Borrel
ltipoll . . - . . . 2 -. I5
Vulfogona . - . - II., Ramon de Berenguer, &c.; the
. I1} .. 16¢}
Olot . . . . . . particulars of the tombs are detailed
. 2'} .. I9
Mieras . . . . . . 2} .. 211]
in Yepes (iv. 218), there is talk of pre
Bniinlas . . . . . . 2} .. '24
serving them in a Museo : the cloister
Gerona . 2 .. 26
is very curious, especially the roma
The country is wild and broken to nesque capitals. Below the town the
Fornols and Bagzi, which is situated on Fresné, or Fraser, runs into the Ter;
the Bascarefi, a tributary of the Llo thus Ripoll may well be called Rivis
Catalonia. ROUTE 5l.—BARCELOXA T0 rsnrifisx. 431
Pollcns. The valley is charming: the with some hooks in the cloister library.
Ter in its course to Viquc flows near Observe singular pillars and capitals,
Rods. and Amer, through some narrow the work of Berengario Portell, of
and very picturesque rocks; but into Gerona, 1325. Vich was repeatedly
what lovely and secluded secrets of sacked by the French, and near it,
nature does not trout-fishing conduct Feb. 20, 1810, Souham, by one dashing
us! This stream is apt to be either French charge, put 14,000 Spaniards
too low or too full of snow-water. to instant flight, their General E.
Basalt-built Olut is a manufacturing O'Donnell leading the way to the
town of 9000 souls, placed between mountain hides.
the Fluvia and the volcanic hill Mont Ilurcelmm is 12% L. distant from
sacopa, which is of great geological Vich by Tlnw, 11} L., which is joined
interest. Other craters exist on the to CoIlus1»in'r, and has on its hill a
Mont Olivet and el Puig do Ia Garrinada ruined castle, and an ancient church,
to the N.E., at Bosch de Tosca, and a founded in 888. Celtic!//!.s, or Sam;
league distant at Santa Mzrgaritu de la Columlz dc ‘entail/rs, I L., is said to
Cot ; as the whole district is volcanic, have been so called from the Goth
the intermediate plains, Pia‘ Sacot and C/u‘nti'ln, who here built a strong for
dc la Daresrz, should be explored. The tress,n0w a ruin; the place, like Aiyuu
Sopladorcs, under the hill Batét, are cool Fred/I, 1 L., is built on the Congest.
currents which blow out of the porous Thence 2 L. to La (Iarrign; 2 more to
lava, and used by the natives as refri Grunollcrs, Pop. 2200, near the rivers
geratories. Besos and Congest; observe on the
Six L. from Ripoll and 6,} from Olot plum the cobcl-tizn, supported by pillars;
is Viv]/1e, Vich, Ausona, a CiIld:ld and 2 L. off in the pine-clad hills is
the capital of its temperate and fertile C0dinas,with its pr/ioncs, and petrifying
hill-girt plain : ancient Ausona, accord cascade: hence to Moneml 1 3 L.,under
ing to native annalists, was founded by its hill, which is separated from Ifemrch
Anso, son of Briga, grandson of Noah. by the Besos; the ferruginous baths
The modern name Vich is a corruption are much frequented: here the Gerona
of Vicus, a Roman town razed by the high road is entered, and 2 L. more
Moors and rebuilt in 798. Many Roman lead to Barcelona. 1/4/Still/‘it’/L, on the
antiquities have been from time to high road to France, lies 7 L. S. from
time discovered and neglected; some Vich: the cold Monseny ridge is
inscriptions are preserved in the Esp. crossed near Arbusius, where, on the
Sa_r]., xxviii., which treats of this dio hill San Sagismundo, the fine amethysts
cese. The city is placed in the centre are found which decorate Catalan ear
of its district, on a slope; the environs rings; the shooting here is excellent.
produce corn and fruit, and a bad At Olot the road branches ofi to Ge
wine: pop. about l0,000, partly mann rona, 7 L., by Mieras, and also to
facturing and agricultural; their sau Figueras by Besalii. "
sages are excellent, especially the langu
nizas. The irregular town branches
Roors 51.—BARCELONA 1'0
out like a spider’s web from a centre
PERPINAN.
group; it has a pleasant rambla and
an arcaded plaza, and a prison in the Moncada . . - - . . 2
Montmalé . . . . . 2 4
ancient tower of Moncada of the 10th Llinaa . . '. . . . 2 6
centy. The see, a bishopric restored San Celoni - . . . - 3 .. 9
in 880, in 970 was raised by John XIII. Hostalrich . . - . . 2i .. ll}
to be the metropolitan of Catalonia; Mallorquinas . . . . 2 .. 13}
Gerona . . . . . . 4 .. 1711
this dignity reverted to Tarragona in Bascara . . . . . 4 .. 211}
the llth centy., after its reconquest LaJunquera . . . . 3 .. 24}
from the Moors. The cathedral, re Al Boulou . . . . . 3 .. 27}
Perpifian . . . . . . 4 . 31%“
built in l038 by the Bishop Oliva, has
been modernised; it contains some bad This, the upper road, is by no means
pictures and a fine Cnstodia, 14l3, so pleasant as that which runs by the
432 ROUTE 52.—BARCELONA TO GERONAI ' Sect. vr.
coast, Rte. 42. The country to Ge Britannicus, for no where previously
rona, by both roads, is densely peopled, did carts stick in deeper ruts than in
and the manufacturing hive is in per commercial Catalonia; nature, how- '
fect contrast with the silent, lifeless ever, was bountiful enough, and this
Castiles and central provinces; we coast-line is truly delightful —a con
seem positively to be in another planet. stant interchange of hill and plain,
This corner of the Peninsula has from with the blue sea on one side and the
time immemorial been exposed to the rich maritime strip on the other, a
invader, who, whether Celt, Gaul, sunny scene, where the aloe hedges the
Roman, Goth, or French, have ravaged garden farms of orange and lemon with
it in their turns: under the reign of impenetrable palisade ; the cottages are
terror of Duhesme cl cruel and Au neat and clean. There is little here of
gereau, the air was poisoned by the Castilian poverty or idleness: on all
putrefying bodies of peasants, executed sides the women are knitting, the la
without even the form of a trial (To bourers delving, aud the fishermen
reno, xi.). The road is carried under trimming their picturesque craft. Oc-'
the cold Monseny range, amid a wild cupation renders all happy, while in
pine-clad broken country ; on the dustry enriches, and these charming
heights of Llinas, Vives and Reding districts continue to be what they were
ventured, Dec. 16, 1808, to oppose St. of old described by ‘Fest. Avienus (Or.
C r, who was advancing on Barcelona, Mar. 520), Sedes amcenae ditium.
a ter the capture of Rosas, which Vives Badalona, Bethulonia, on the Besos,
had not even attempted to prevent. near the sea, contains about 5000 ma
The Spaniards were completely routed, nufucturing, busy, and amphibious
Vives running away on foot, Reding on souls. The ancient purroquia is built
horseback; and yet, in this hilly broken on Roman foundations, but few anti
country, by a proper guerrillero and de quities found here have been ever pre-
fensive warfare, the French, driven to served. The coastis charming, dotted
great straits, might have easily been about with pines, and sweet groves
cut olf in detail. ten-anted by nightingale-s, and filled
HOSTALRICH, once the most impor with fruit and corn, with the sweet
tant fortress on this high road, was blue sea gladdening the eye and tem
taken by the French in 1694, when the pering the summer heats. JlIatar6—Il
town was sacked, and the fortifica luro (Inns, Posrzcl/gde las Dilige1wias—
tions ruined, repaired afterwards, in Meson de la Fuel-te)-rises on the sea,
Feb. 1810 they were held by Julian de surrounded on the land side by ver
Estrada for 4 months against Auge durous gardens. The hermitage S.
reau, the garrison at last cutting out Muteu and the Moorish tower Ban-iach
its way, and getting safely to Vich: on their heights form landmarks for
Augereau vented his spite by tortur ships. Elevated to the rank of a
in -and burning alive many of the left ciudad since 1701, it contains 13,000
be ind (Schep. i. 256). busy, industrious souls, and is increas
ing. The port is capable of much
improvement. The town, of an irre
gular shape, has two good plazas, a
well-managed hospital, and a fine spa
Rovra 52.—BARCELONA T0 G-EROXA. cious purroquia, with 6 pictures by Vi
Badalona. . . . . . 2 ladomat, in the Capilla de los Dolores;
Mataré . . . . . . 3 .. 6 5 represent the Saviour bearing the
St. Pol . . . . . 2i‘ -. 71‘
Tordera . . . . . . 3 .. 104
Cross, in different phases of agony;
Granota . . . . . the Santa Veronica and Virgin, on blue
. 21- .. 13
Gerona . and white drapery, is worthy of Mu
. 211- .. 15%
rillo. The oldest church is Sun Miguel
A railroad from Barcelona to M<It(lr6, de Mum, whence some derive the city’s
some m., is the first ever laid down name, and explain the armorial bear
in Spam, thanks to the aid of Hercules ings, or 4 bars gulcs, a hand holding
Catalonia. xwurs 52.—cr.noxA. 433
a sprig, Jfatn, with the word I-*0‘. The to be the first town in which Santiago
chief street is I/'t Rieru (the river, and St. Paul rested when they came to
Rambla) ; the well watered-town has a Spain; which neither did. While in
tortuous old, and a more regular new, the possession of the Moors, and placed
quarter: in the former the better between France and Spain, like other
classes reside, while the operatives and limitrophe districts, it sided alternately
sailors people the latter. The marine with each, and generally with the
suburb is connected with the upper by former. It was taken in 785 by Charle
las Escaleras. The principal approaches, magne, the “ heavens raining blood, and
both from Barcelona and Gerona, are angels appearing with crosses” (Esp.
handsome streets. Mataro has at last .S'¢q/., xliii. 74). The Moors regained and
recovered the terrible sacking by Du sacked it in 795. It was soon recovered
hesme, June 17, 1808 ; he was quartered by its “ Counts,” and then, passing to
for 2 months here, and received as an Aiagon, gave the title of Prince to the
ally and a guest. On quitting he re king's eldest son. Of the Moorish
paid the hospitality by bloodshed and period there remains an elegant bath
pillage. Southey (viii.) and Toreno in the Capuchin convent,a light pavilion
(iv.) give the details. Duhesme pur rising from an octangular stylobate.
sued his road to Gerona, “ a red trail Guronn, a cimlad, well-built and
of fire and blood marking his progress” massy, Pop. about 8000, is the
(Schep. iii. 227). This man, known capital of its district, the see of a
here as El Cruel, was sent to his account bishop, a plaza de (U771/(S. It lies under
at Gemappe, while skulkin g away after the fortified Montjuich hill, is of a tri
VVaterloo. angular form, with streets narrow but
At Cutilla the road turns inland, clean, and has 3 plazfls .- the Mercadel,
and the country becomes more broken or suburb, parted oil‘ by the Ona, is
very ancient. The city is much dila
and less cultivated. Gcrona rises above
the Ter, exposed indeed to the north pidated from the French siege and
winds, but overlooking a sunny, well bombarding; it bears for arms, or, the
irrigated plain ; placed by its military 4 Catalan bars gules, and an escutcheon
position in the very jaws of every in of waves azure. The see was founded
vader, at no period has it escaped in 786 by Charlemagne. The early
sieges, nor have the fierce natives cathedral was pulled down and rebuilt
shunned the encounter. Their wild in 1316; in 1416 a dispute arose whether
district has always been the lair of the the bold plan by Guillermo Boffy of
bold bandit and Gum-rz'l!e1*0, unchanged one nave should be changed into 8: a
since the days of Festus Avienus (Or. juryof 12 architects was summoncd,who
Mar. 528) : decided on the single plan. Cean. Ber.
" Post Imliyetcs asperi se proferunt, (Arch. i. 92, 261) has printed all the
Gens ista dura, gens ferox venatibus deliberations, which evince the serious
Lustrisque inherens." consideration with which these mighty
Ferocity is indeed inherent; but with works of old were reared. The ap
the vices they have the rude, hardy proach is magnificent, and, as at Tarra
virtues of uncivilized mountaineers. gona, a superb flight of 86 steps, raised
Gerom, Gerunda, is of most remote in 1607 by Bishop Zuazo, leads up to
antiquity : the diligence inn is the best. the facade, which is in the Grseco
Some derive the name from Geryon, Romano style, rising in tiers, order
who kept oxen near Cadiz, exactly the above order, and terminated with an
most distant, and most unlikely point: oval rose-window : from the square
others contend for the Celtic (Mr, near, belfry the panorama is beautiful. Be
and Ond, a confluence ; and it is placed fore entering, look at the Puerta dc los
near the junction of the Ter and the Apostoles and the terra-cotta statues of
Ona. These matters are discussed in the 1458. The interior, with its semi
‘ Rcsmncn dc las Gr-cmdczas,’ Juan Gasper circular absis, is simple and grandiose.
Roig y Yalpi, fol. Barcelona, 1678, and The Sillcria del Coro is of the early part
in the Esp. Sag.xliii. iv.v. Gerona boasts of the 16th century: observe the epis
Spain.-—I. U
434 norm-: 52.——GERONA—-THE runs. Sect. VI.
copal throne. The isolated altar be white, others that they were tri-co
longed to the older church; observe loured, blue, green, and red, while
the frontal, the paintings, and some Father Roig is positive that they were
early enamelled figures, 4.1). 1038, and “ half green, half blue, with a red
a noble retablo and pillared tabernacle stripe down their backs." Be this as
by Pedro Benes. A fine crozier and a it may, they destroyed no less than
custodia escaped from the mass of 24,000 horses and 40,000 Frenchmen;
sacred plate that was carried off by the nay, the king himself sickened and
invaders. Observe the sepulchres of died at Perpifian, Oct. 5, 1285. Hence
Ramon Berenguer II. ( Cup. do Estopa), the proverb “ Las Moscas de Sun Nar
and his wife Ermesendis, ob. 1058, and ciso.” These gad-flies re~appeared Sept.
that of Bishop Anglesola, and in the 24, 1653, and compelled the French,
chapel of San Pablo that of Bernardo under La Mothe-Houdaincourt, to re
de Pavo. Next visit the Sala C'apitular, tire once more, having then stung to
and the cloisters with quaint capitals death, according to Padre Roig, no
like those of Vich and Ripoll, and exe less than 20,000 horses. Again, May
cuted by Berengario Portell, 1325. In 24, 1684, an enormous single parti
the Galilea and the‘ C'ementerio de los coloured fly appeared miraculously on
1\’e_<]ros are some very ancient lapidary the image of the saint, and the French
inscriptions. In the archives in the army, under Bellfonds, either died or
cloister are some early MSS. and a ran away. As this miracle was au
Bible, written in 1374 by Bernardin thenticated by Isidro Vila, the town
Mutina for Charles V. of France, but clerk, Innocent XI. decreed a national
ascribed here to Charlemagne. thanksgiving to Narciso, as “ the Sa
The Colegiata dc San Feliu is also ap viour of Spain ;” on the 29th of every
proached by a staircase between two October is still a first-rate fair and holi
polygonal towers; from the earliest day. The local Junta in 1808 declared
times this church was half a fortress. this Hercules Muscarius, this A1ap.vu§,
The grand relics are the head of San this Baalzebub, to be their captain-'
Feliu and the body of San Narciso, who general; and on his tomb was laid the
was Bishop of Gerona from 304 to 307. staff of command, in order that this
For their lives and deeds consult Padre glorioso e mvicto mwrtir as especialisimo
Roig and Ribad. iii. 311. San Narciso, protector 3/ gene:-ala'sz'nt0, might infuse
with his deacon Feliu (Felix), when laces y valor, intelligence and courage,
at Augsburgh, put up by mischance at into mortal Spanish generals. The
a “ Burdell,” and there wrought his whole decree was republished in 1832 l
first miracle, b converting Afra his in the Esp. Sag. xlv. 90, with the
hostess, and 3 o her ‘frail ladies, Digna, names of the 32 deputies who signed
Eumenia, and Eutropia, “ worthy, it, headed by the identical Jaime Creux
well behaved, and well speaking ” who, as the representative of Catalonia,
damsels, who afterwards swelled the opposed the giving command to the
list of Mrs. Jameson’s “ Bienheureuses Duke of Wellington, just when the
Pc‘cheresses.” Killed on his return to Cortes of Cadiz preferred Sta. Theresa ;
Spain by the Gentiles while saying but these Spanish flies are not Cosas dc
mass, the site where his body lay was Espaila alone. Such things and Brevets
revealed by angels to Charlemagne, are quite Peninsular. So San Antonio
and he became the tutelar of Ger-om, was nominated the generalissimo (the
which from its frontier situation al San Narciso) of the Lusitaniaus. Al
ways needed one‘ much. Thus, when though he never served while alive, he
Philip le Hardi, anxious to avenge the was called into active employment
Sicilian- Vespers, invaded Catalonia, when dead, and was enrolled in 1688 as
and began plundering the silver on a private—the Virgin being his surety
the saint’s tomb, there forthwith issued that he would not desert; in I780 he
from the body a plague of flies: the was made a general officer, and Junot,
clerical authorities differ as to their in 1807, received his pay with the re
colour, some afiirming that they were gularity of a true believer (Foy, ii.
Catalonia. ROUTE 52, 53.-canon. 435
19). This Creux, afterwards arch famine and disease effected what force
bishop of Tarragona, headed the Car of arms could not. Alvarez became
list and servile party, and died in delirious, and with him Gerona fell;
1825. for Samaniego, his traitorous succes
Gcron/t, in the War of the Succes sor, forthwith capitulated, and the
sion, made a desperate resistance with place fell December 12, 1809. The
2000 men against 19,000 troops of defence lasted 7 months and 5 days,
Philip V., who abolished its university against 7 open breaches. The French
and all its liberties. In June 1808, expended 60,000 balls and 20,000
Gerona, garrisoned with 300 men of the bombs, and lost more than 15,000 men.
Ulster regiment, under O’Daly, beat off Augereau broke every stipulation, and
Duhesme, El C:-rwl, with some 6000 insulted the invalid Alvarez, instead of
men : he returned with fresh forces in honouring a brave opponent, confining
July, boasting that he would arrive the him in a solitary dungeon, where he
24th, attack the 25th, take it the 26th, was soon “ found dead,” say the French
and rase it on the 27th; but he was —“ poisoned,” says Toreno (x. Ap. 3);
bafiled and beaten off again by that and Southey compares his fate to that
marine gadfly Lord Cochrane. Not of Wright and Pichegru. He lies buried
daring to go near the sea, Duhesme in San F eliu in a simple sarcophagus.
retreated, Aug. 16, by the hills, pur This gallant but unavailing defence,
sued by Caldagues, and lost his cannon, like that of Zaragoza and Cuidad
baggage, and reputation. At that Rodrigo, redeems the scandalous sur
critical moment 10,000 English troops renders of Badajoz, Tortosa, &c., by
were ordered from Sicily, and, had they the traitors and “ children in the art
landed, Buonaparte could never have of war" of the Blake, lmaz, and Alache
wofi Catalonia. Unfoitunately the loss breed.
of the island of Capri by Sir Hudson For the siege of Gerona consult
Lowe enabled the French to threaten ‘ Memorias,’ J . A. Nieto y Samaniego,
the potterer Sir John Murray, and the Tarragona, 1810, and Madoz, viii. 378.
troops did not sail. The Catalans were La Ifispal lies 5 L. to the l. of Ge
thus left unassisted, and thereby this rona. Here, in September 1810, Henry
province and Valencia were lost. The O’Donnell, aided by English tars, took
English only interfered on this coast the ever unlucky blunderer Schwartz
when too late, and then were le‘d by prisoner with 1200 men.
bunglers only to do worsethan nothing. From Gerona there is a bridle-road
(See Biar, Ordal, Tarragona, &c.) to the l. into France.
Gerona was again besieged in May, The rugged alpine frontier of the
1809, by the French with 35,000 men, Pyrenees is indeed threaded by infinite
under Verdier, St. Cyr, and Augereau. tracks and passes made by the wild
The governor Mariano Alvarez, left goats and smugglers; it will always
by the Junta in want of everything, be prudent to take a local guide and
even of ammunition, was brave and a. contrubandista if possible: attend also
skilful, and well seconded by some to the provend. The large map of
English volunteers under the gallant the Pyrenees by Arrowsmith is useful.
Col. Marshall, who took the lead and
was killed in the breaches: Pearson, Roma 53.—Gnno1<a T0 S'1‘.LAUBEl\"1‘.
Nash, and Candy also distinguished
B6-iiolas .
themselves. The women of Gerona Besalii . . J . - . 2 . 4
also enrolled themselves into a com Entreperas . . . . 3 . 7
pany, dedicated to Santa Barbara, the Basagoda . . . . . 21} . 91'
patroness of Spanish artillery. The St. Laurent . . . 1'1‘ . 11
enemy bombarded the city—the re Turning to the rt. from Besahi the
sistance was most dogged—general road ascends the Llera, on which En
after general failed, and the siege be trcperas is placed. Basagodu commu
came so unpopular that Lechi, Verdier, nicates with Camprodon by the Coll
and others took French leave. At last de Fac, and is the last town in Spain.
U 2
436 ROUTE 5-’.l:.—FERDINAND VII .—FIGUEI‘tAS. Sect. VI.
on political subjects. The Duke was
ROUTE 54.—Gnno1u 'ro Pan1>1S'A.\'. very nearly being obliged to go and
lodge at his brother’s house, when a
Bascara ' . - . - . . 4
I~‘igu_eras . . . . . . 3 .. 7 hint was given by Gen. O’Lawlor to
A 1aJunquera - . . . 3 .. IO the Duque de San Carlos, and a proper
Al Boulou . . . . . . 3 . . 13 residence was provided; nor did the
Perpiiian . . . . . . 4 . 17
king, although the Duke would have
On leaving Gerom the Flnvia is liked it, ever offer to give him a per
crossed by a high and narrow bridge. manent house there in his quality of
On these banks Ferdinand VII., tra grandee. The Duke saw at once how
velling under the title of Conde de things were going on, and passing
Barcelona, was restored to Spain, March through Tolosa on his return, told
24, 1814, by Buonaparte, whose pride Gen. Giron, “ c’est une affaire perdue,”
had too long obscured his military and he was right.
judgment. Had he taken that step Figueras, Ficaris, Fonda del C0m.erc2'o,
sooner Ferdinand would have been a straggling place, rises in its rich pine
another apple of discord to the English, dotted plain of olives and rice; all are
against whom the cortes and priests busy here, the men with spades, the
were plotting; again, by withdrawing women with the needle,while nightin
Suchet’s army, Buonaparte would have gales cheer their work. Pop. about
had greater means to resist the vic 8000. Here the traveller should ex
torious Duke When invading France; change his Spanish money for French,
but Spain was invaded by perfidy and or his French for Spanish, as the case
bad policy, and poetical justice re may be, remembering always that five
quired that it should be his pit. Fer franc pieces, or the pillared duro, are
dinand came back attended by his the safest coins to take. Those who
tutor, Escoiquiz, who had lured him now enter Spain for the ~first time
in 1808 into the Bayonne trap. Pe should read our preliminary remarks
dant and pupil both returned as on money, passports, sketching, cos
Spanish as they had gone forth—no tume, &c., and may remember that Bar
thing learnt, nothing forgotten. The celona is a capital place for a Spanish
Duke, however, thought better of the outfit. In the parish church Philip
king than of his ministers. He also V., November 3, 1701, was married to
foresaw the termination of the im Maria Luisa of Savoy. The glory of
practicable cortes and constitution, Fiqueras and her shame is the superb
and (Desp. Sept. 5, 1813), felt certain citadel, which is called San Fernando,
“ that if Ferdinand should return he having been built by Ferdinand VI.
would overturn the whole fabric, if he Pentagonal, rock hewn, and planned
has any spiritz” and as he did, nothing on the principles of Vauban, of truly
loth, and urged on by the nation, Roman magnificence and solidity, as
which, sick of petty tyrants, fled from far as art can go, it ought to be im
liberales and democrats to the throne. pregnable. The arsenals, magazines,
Ferdinand was well disposed, and &c., are capable of containing ample
meant and wished to have acted garrison stores, &c., all usually found
fairly, but it was impossible, as his “wanting in the critical moment."
party was too strong for him, and In the prison, Alvarez, the hero of
clamoured for Iberian Venganza. He Gerona, was “found dead,” although
fell also into the worst hands, and Augereau held no coroner's inquest on
especially Freire and Ballesteros, his the body. Gen. Castafios marked the
war ministers, who prejudiced him spot by an inscription. The fortress,
against the English, and especially thus placed as a central point of com
against the Duke, falsely stating that munication, is the key of the frontier,
he patronised a liberal newspaper called or oughtto be; for well did Mr. Towns
El Qonciso. Thus, when the Duke hend observe, in 1786, while it was
arrived at Madrid, Ferd.VII., although in progress of building, “When the
outwardly very civil, never touched moment of trial comes, the whole will
Catalonia. ROUTE 54.—-GERONA TO PERPIEAN. 437
depend on the weakness or treachery i brave Spaniards. Rovira was rewarded
of a commander, and, instead of ‘, by prcferment in thecathedra1ofVich,
being a defence to the country, it‘ a common practice at that period.
may afford a lodgment to the enemy ;” ‘, Figuc/vrs, thus taken by the theolo
and his prophetic apprehensions ! gian, was as quickly lost by the regular
proved too well founded. The general, the blunderer Campoverde,
miserable governor, one Andre Tor who, while ereeping—soc0rros dc Es
res, surrendered, November 28, 1794, pum— to its tardy re-supply of troops
at the first summons of the republi and provisions, was met, May 3, by
can Gen. Perignon, who, having General Baraguay d'Hilliers, who, with
under 15,000 men, could scarcely be some -£000 men, by one dashing cavalry
lieve their success, or the astound charge, completely routed 10,000 Spa
ing cowardice of a garrison which had niards, killing 900, and taking 1500
every means of resisting even 60,000 prisoners.
men for at least six months. Fzijuerus, left to itself, besieged and
Again, March 18, 1808, this citadel bombarded by 13,000 Frenchmen, was
was gained at once by Buonaparte, gallantlyi defended by the governor,
whose agent, Duhesme, pretending Martinez, who, after nearly 5 months’
to be the ally of Charles IV., pre resistance, when all food and am
vailed on the governor, one Prats, to munition failed, capitulated (Aug.
confide in his /umour, and to impri 16) on honourable terms, all of which
son therein 200 unruly conscripts; were violated by Macdonald. After
instead of whom he sent his picked sundry executions the brave garrison
soldiers in disguise, who immediately was marched half-naked to the hulks
overpowered the Spanish garrison, of Brest and Rochefort, and there com
ineflicient in numbers, and unpro-i pelled by Buonaparte to work like con
vided with the commonest means victs. (Southey, Chr. 38). The lo
for defence: so true is the Spanish cality is one of rivers and hills, most
remark-—this fine citadel always be of which are crowned with old frontier
longs to us in the time of peace, and towers and hermitages. The inhabi
to the French in time of war. It is in tants, Pyrenean highlanders, are fond
fact a flziblessc not a fortress, an ex of their local dances, the contrapas and
pence to be kept up in peace, and in sardana, as of fives, la pclota. The
war a stronghold for the enemy. The flannel mantilla of the women, la
position itself is ill chosen, from the capucka, and the stick, garrot, of the
constant fevers which decimate the males, are remarkable.
garrison: no canal has yet been made Leaving Figueras, the road, after pass
to Rosas, by which these pestilential ing the Llobregat, reaches La Junqucra,
districts might easily be drained. in its reed_z/ plain or gzzrgzzzzta between
Strong as it is, yet Fz'_(/ucras was re the hills. From the quantity of esparto
captured in one hour, April 10, 1811, which grows here, the site was called
by Rovira, a doctor in theology! who, by the ancients Campus Juncarius, and
having friends in the town, had long also “the plain of Marathon,” from
wished to attempt its surprise, but was itapaéa/v,arope (Strabo, iii. 2-10). Here
thwarted by the blundering regular is the Spanish aduana.
generals, who laughed at the idea as a Now we ascend the mountain barrier
Quixotism, a Rocirada: the doctor, with of the Pyrenees, and passing, by rough
some peasants, succeeded from sheer and picturesque stages, mid rocks and
boldness of conception and execution. cork trees, over the (‘oi de Pcrtiis, de
The careless French governor, Guyot, scend to El Boulou. The height looks
was condemned to death for form’s over Spain and France, which the
sake, and a theatrical scene was got Rubicon Tech separates. To the 1.
up, when Buonaparte pardoned him. above the village Perttis, is the pictur
All this French farce is hepraised by esque fort of Bellegarde, raised in
1679 by Louis XIV. to prevent the pas
Napier (xiii. 6), who deals gently with
his idol's subsequent cruelty to the sage of the Spaniards, and guard his
438 noun; 55.—1~"1cUnnAs T_() nosas. Sect. VI.
newly acquired slice of -dominion. intércommunication being cut oil‘. The
Placed on a conical hill between 2 Romans, when Spain was conquered,
ridges, it is strong although com broke down the barrier, and united
manded by the Spanish height, from the two portions under their para
whence there is an extensive view mount authority. The’ mint was very
looking towards Figneras and the snow busy, and the coins have survived the
capped soaring Canigu. On this Pue/"to city, as 30 have been discovered, all
Pompey erected a monument inscribed . of which bear the head of Minerva on
with the names of 876 places which he the reverse (Florez, ‘ M.’ ii. 409). For
had subdued. Caesar, when he also ancient details consult Livy, xxxiv. 9.;
passed by, having vanquished the ge Straho, iii. 2-ll; and Esp. Sug., xlii.
nerals and sons of this conqueror, raised 202. The Goths used Emporiae kindly,
an altar by the side of the former and raised it to a hishopric. The strong
trophy. Nothing now remains of p town resisted the invading Moors, and
either. Sic transit gloritl. was by them dismantled; it was finally
Soon the appearance of the.semi- ‘ destroyed by the Normans, and the sea,
soldier French donanier, the rigorous by retiring, has completed the injuries
searchings of trunks, nay persons, and of man.
the signing of passports, announce Rosas, 2% L. from Gerona, with its
another kingdom. Then adieu hungry long street of white houses, and placed
- Spain, charming land of the original, on the upper part of the bay, was the
racy, and romantic, and welcome Belle Greek P/151w, Rhodos: the old town, it
France, chosen country of most unpic is said, lay towards the headland, at
turesque commonplace, and most poeti San Pedro de Roda. Below the town is
.0111 cookery. But the comfort of a the citadel, which was besieged, Nov.
good dinner, good road, and good car 1794, by the French under Perignon,
riage is indeed unspeakable, after and gallantly defended by Isquierdo,
having declined the word “rough who, when his inadequate means were
it," in all its tenses; oh, dura tellus exhausted, managed, Feb. 3, to embark
lberisc! and save his garrison. The defences,
half-ruined, were never repaired, as is
usual in Spain and the East; accord
ingly, when the nex-t war broke out,
this important key to the coast, and
Rorrrn 55.—-Freunnns T0 ROSAS. of Figuerus, was left exposed to the
mercy of the enemy. Attacked, Nov.
From Figueras there is a wild and 1808, _by 7000 French under Reille,
picturesque riding route into France, Souham, and St. Cyr, it was gallantly
along the coast of the Gulf of Rosas. defended by O'Daly and Fitzgerald,
On one side Clistellon de Al!Zplll‘f((.S‘, now who had good Irish blood in their
amiserable ruined fishing hamlet, is veins: it held out for 29 days, sur
all that remains of the ancient com rendering Dec. 5. Meantime no effort
mercial Emporiae, Emporium, E/mropmr was made by any Spaniards to relieve
E/m-opmv. This colony of the Pho this important maritime place, as a
caaan Greeks from Marseilles, founded base for operations, with the Mediter
550 B.C., became the rendezvous of ranean open; and had it been held,
Asia and Europe. It traded then in the French would with difiiculty have
linen as now in calico. The Iberians overrun Catalonia, which, in fact, is
beheld these foreign settlers with great the key of Figueras; nay, when the
jealousy, and after many contests came English afterwards would have re
to a singular compromise : the Greeks paired the defences, they resisted the
were allowed to occupy the island rocks oifer, suspecting that they were going
Zrrs Jlletns, Jlicdrzs, but their city, Pale to keep it for themselves. Lord
opolis, was divided from the Iberian Cochrane, however, who commanded
town by a party wall, which was regu the ‘Impérieuse,’ on the 25th, just
larly guarded as in a case of siege, all threw some 80 blue jackets into the
Catalonia. FIGUERAS TO RO§AS. 439
headland fort, which the religious ‘land all along the coast.Rosas and
Spaniards called Lu Trinidad, and the its defences were reduced to ruin by
more aesthetic French le bouton dc rose. Suchet, a fate to which this frontier
These tars played such pranks with fort has immemorially been subject.
their cntlasses as only British sailors, ' Crossing the headland and passing
rendered reckless by uninterrupted the C/IbO de Creus, the site of the tem
victory, can venture to practise. They Y p le of Venus and her promontory, a
beat San Narciso and his Gerona Spa wild coast-road leads by Cervera to
nish fiies hollow, and on the 30th France and Forte Vendrcs, Portus
repulsed 1000 of the enemy. The . Veneris, where the steamers touch in
“mere” name of Cochrane, however, their passages to and from Cadiz and
(El coco, the bugbear) was enou h to Marseilles.
inspire terror to the enemies of ug

END OF PART I.'


8
:5
(441)

INDEX TO PART I.

Abl>reviat.ions:—Sp. Spain, Spanish, Spaniards. E. England, English. M. Moors. Moorish.


F. France, French.

ABANICO. I ALUIBES. AMAILGURA.


Anasxco, fan, 67, 112 g Alameda, town of, 255 1 Allmma, 40, 289
Abasside, dynasty, 225 ,7 Alarqon, Senor, 326 1 Alhamilla, 234
Abderahman, 225 1 Alarde, 357 - Alhambra, 297
Abencerrages, the, 292 ‘ Albaicin, 296, 323 ' —— by night, 312
Abu Jusuf Yacnb, 173 1 Albigenses, 207 7 Alharas, 227 -
Abu Said, murder of, 186 1 Albuera, the battle, 249 Alhaurin, 283
Acebuche, 215 Albuera, French version Alicante, 354
Aceite, 215 of, 250 —— to Carthagena, 351
Aceqnias, 361 —-, Sp. claims, 250 -—— to Elche, 354
Accident, influence of, 7 Albufera, the lake, 381 to Xativa, 355
Aclimatacion, garden of, Albunol, 332 Aljamia, 66
154 Alcaide, 170 All Halloween, 208
Adam, Sir F.. defeat, 407 Alcala de Guadaira, 159 Almaden del Azogue, 220
Addington, Ml‘-, 300 de Gisbert, 388 Almaden to Seville, 216
Adra. 331 -—-» la Real, 257 i to Valdefienas, 246
i to Cartagena, 333 del Rio, 221 Almadraba, 145
--—-- to Granada, 329 Alcaiseria, 322 Almagra, 334 '
to Malaga, 332 Alcarrazas, 232 Almagrera, 335
Aficion, la, 67 Alcazaba, 302 Al-Mann, 307
Q
Afrancesado, 102 Alcazar of Seville, 185 Almandralejo, 249
Africa, view of, 148 E Alcira, 359, 383 Almazarron, 334
Agua bendita, 58 Alcolea, 232 Almenara, 387
Agnardiente, 25 ' Alcoy, 356 Almeria, 333
Aguas dulces, 255 Alcublas, 384 -—- to Granada, 329
Agnila, Conde del, 211 1 Aldrete, escape of, 323 -Z to Jaen, 325
Aguilar, A. de, 281 Alerce, 180, 228, 308 Almizates, 172
Agustin, San, 203 Aletes, 325 Almohades, 226
Agustin, Archbishop,404 Alexander VI., 359 Alm0ravides~Murabi
Air, Sp., dry and rare Alfarache, San Juan de, tins, 226
fied, 32 1 155 Almunecar, 332
Airs and melody, Sp., 107 Alfaques, los, 389 Alpargata, 235, 365
Ajaracas, 174 ‘ Alf0nsinas,lastablas,183 1 Alpujarras, 329
Ajarafe, 165 Algara, la, 304 1 Alonso el Sabio, 169
Alacha, Conde de, 397 1 Algarabia, 66 , Aloque, wine, 354
A ladisposicion de V.,122 Afiarrobo, 362 1’ Alvar Fanez, 366
Alameda, 136 Algebra, 174 1 Alvarez, M., 435
Alameda, costumes on, Algeciras, siege of, 152 , Alvaro, M. de, 376
117 , Algibes, 302 _‘ Amargnra, calle de, 176
U 3
""' in

442 mu:-:.\'. TO PART 1.


AMAS. ASJA. EL BASTAN.
Amas, 189 Arenas, Puerto de, 259 Azahar, 186
Amontillado, 140, 157 Arfe, Juan dc, 182 Azulejo, 173
Amphitheatre at Italica, Argamasilla de Alba, 244 Azulejos, colours of, 305
213 Argote, Simon de, 295 —— of the Alhambra,
Amposta, 389 Arjuna, J. M., 90,160,208 305
to Fraga, 396 Armorial bearings of —— of Valencia, 380
Ampurias, 438 Sp., 63
Ancient mines, 340 of the Virgin, 196
Andalosh, 126 Arrabal, 296 B.
Andalucia, 126 Arrayanes, Patio de los, Bacalao, 209
Andaluza, girl singing, 306 Bacaudae, 395
106 Arrecifes, 20 Backshish, 121
Andar de Zeca en Meca, Arrieros, mnleteers, 23 Badajoz to Seville, 248,
228 Arriguela, 256 249
Andas, 53 Arrizafa, 231 Badalona, 432
Andorra, 429 Arroba, 71 Bad government, Sp., 8,
Andriani, L., 386 Arroyos, 32 2s, 209
Andujar, 232 Arroz, 361 Bad taste, clerical, Sp.,
Andujar to Granada, 258 Arrozales, 359, 362 139
Anglers, hints to, 48 Arsenal, Sp, naval, 350 Baena, 256
Angustias, San, 325 Arte de Pintura, 75 llaeza, 336
Annals of Peninsular Artesonado, 172, 308 Baetican zone, 29
campaigns, 46 Artillery, first use of, 149 Baile, nacional, 102
Annals of Sp. artists, 72 Artists, hints to, 45 Bailen, the battle, 233
Antella, 383 Artistical tour, 45 , effects of, 235
Antequera, 264 Artois, Comte d’, 273 Balatt, Ludheric, 227
Antipathy, Sp., to trees, Ascent of Sierra Ne Balax, 186
42 vada, 327 Ballesteros, misconduct,
Antonio, Nicolas, 83 Asfeld, Gen., 357 354
Apes’ hill, 272 Ashér, 305 Ball ornament, 290
Apes of Gibraltar, 277 Assonants, 106 Bafiado, 1s4
Arabes e'n Espalia, His. Astapa, 255 Banda, la, 185
de, 72 Astas, 96 Banderillas, 96
Aracena, 218 Atalayas, 162 Banking, Sp. 17
Arahal, 254 Atarazanas, 209 Bafios de Padilla, 186
Arana, 107 Atendrio, San, 259 Barateros, 205
Aranjuez, gardens of,2-46 Atriles, 58 Baratillo, el, 210
Aranzada, 71 Atun escabechado, 145 Barbaries Botanica, 42
Araucana, poem, 246 Augereau cruelties, 432, Barcelona, 408
Arbos, 407 435 to Gerona, 432
Arbusias, 431 Aurnm Tolosanum, 233 ?- to Perpinan, 431
Archidona, 255, 265 Authorities quoted, 71 —- to Tarragona, 406
Archena, 348 Authors, hints to, 86 to Urge], 418
Architects of Sp., 57 Auto de Fe, 206 Barceloneta, 417
Architecture, Sp., 55 Ave Maria, 321 Barcino, 409
, books on Sp., 73 —— Purisima, 195 Barilla, 339
Archives of Alhambra, _Averr0es, 224 Barragana, 189
307 Ayacuchos, los, 247 Barraucos, 32
---— of Arragon, 415 Ayala, J. J. de, 75 Barranco Jaroso, 325
Archivo de las Indias, 1 77 Ayamonte, 165 de S. Juan, 328
Arco de Bara, 407 to San Lucar, 162 Bari-os Saguntinos, 385
A1-cos de la Frontera, 263 Ayat, 304 at“ Barrosa, battle, 144
Ardites, 394 Ay! de mi Alhama, 290 Barsisa, 421
Areizaga, J. C., defeat, Ayfac, 383 Bastan, al, 346
245 Asjé, 305 Bastan, el, 338
INDEX TO PART I. 443
BATATA. BBEXNU5. CADIZ.
Batata, la, 288 Blood marks on stones, Brogiotti, 387
Baths of Alhama, 291 310 , Broiled fish, 210
Baths, mineral, 40 Blue beard, 173 | Bruce, the heart of the,
Battle of Xerez, 148 Blue jackets,
i’ -—— blood, 224
E., 438 264
Bay of Cadiz, 139 Bruch, 419
Baza, 343 ' Boabdil, King, 293 Bucarelli, 299
Becerra, G., 337 i taken prisoner, 257 Buenos Pares, 96
Beef and rum, E., 76 -* adieu to Granada, Bula de Cruzada, 204
Beggars, Sp., 120 323 Bull fight, books on, 100
i, specific against, 185 ——- death of, 329 ——, details of, 88
Belalcazar, 220 Boato, 128, 253 —, philosophy of, 98
Belerma, tears of, 243 Bocanegra, A, 319 1- at Ronda, 262
Belli nervos, 343 Boccadoro,Gi0vanni, 421 Bull of Llercna, 219
Bellota, 200 Bodegas, 156 Buonaparte, N. ; his
Bells, Sp., 175 Bofarull, P. de, 416 works and bulletins,
Belmas, J., 76 Boja abajo, 26 75
Benameji, 257 Bolero, 103 , system of deceit
Bendcjh, la, 288 Boletin de sombra, 91 and terror, 77, 234
Beni, 267 Bon Fen, 200 —, hatred of truth,
Benicarlo, 388 Bonaigua to Urge], 430 75,71
Benidorme, 354 Bonanza, 156 ——, on Trafalgar, 147
Benisané, 383 Bonaplata, 393 —, on Sp. armies and
Bensaken, E., 296 Book collectors, hints Bailen, 234
Bentinck, Lord Wm., on to, 83 i, on Ocana, 245
rivers, 406 Books French, in Sp., 85 , perfidy, 409
, defeat, 407 Books, Sp., 85 Burdet, Robert, 400
Berbers, Vandals, 225, Bookseller, a Sp., 85 Burgo, el, 266
226,272 Books on proverbs, 242 Burial ground, E. in Sp.,
Beresford at Albuera, 250 Bore, Sp., 34 286
Berja, 331 Borgia family, 358 Burjasot, 387
Berkah, 306 , Jesuit saint, 359 Busot, 355
Bermudez, J . A. C., Borrow on Gipsies, 67, Bustaniente, Padre, 198
books, 72 201 Butin infame, F., 233
Berwick, Duke of, Borugo, 215
cruelty, 357, 409 Bory de St. Vincent, 76
Biar, 353 , on apes, 277 C.
Bible in Sp., 120 Bosque, el, 263
Bibliotheca Hispana, 83 Botanical tours, 42 Caballeros en plaza, 89
Bienheureuses Péche Boulou, el, 437 Cabestros, 91
resses, 434 Boutelou, E., 158 Cabeza Colorada, 217
Biographie Universelle, Bow to altar, 59 Cabezas de San Juan,
76 Bowles, J ., Don Quixote, 161
Bishop of Urgel, 429 241 Cabo de Creux, 439
Bisoiios, 70 Boyd, Genl., 273 de Gata, 334
Black dress, 111, 120 --—, execution of, 286 Cabra, 257
—— Prince, ruby of, 186 Bracing climate of Sp., Cabrera, 389
——- strap, 388 37 Cabrera/s mother, 398
Blake, E., Admiral, 289 Brackenbury, Sir John, Cachetero, 97
,Sp., Genl., defeats, 142 Cachucha, la, 106
2s0,2s9,3s1,sss Brasero, avoid, 121 Cactus opuntia, 284
Blanche of Bourbon, 144 Breach of promise, great Cadiar, 330
Blayney, Lord, defeat, Captain’s, 358 Cadiz—aspect, Inns, gui.
282 Bread, Sp., 160 tars, books to consult,
Blind mules and saints, Breba, 317 131; antiquity, profil
427 Brennus, 233 gacy, sieges; Lord
444 nmrx ro mar 1.

CADIZ. CASTELLAR. Cl-IAP BOOKS.


Essex, Wimbletou,()1'- Carajo, el, 66 Castellon de la Plana,
mond, Victor, 133 ; Caravaca, 345 387
ingratitude, diseases, -—- cross of, 345 Castilian language, 67,
art, cathedrals, ram Cardenas, venta de, 238 239
‘ parts, 134; Alameda, Cardener, river, 424 -—- Charles V. on, 65
tides, ladies, 136; cos-
, Carderera, Don V., 49, master, 67
tume, feet, 137; fishes,1 57 Catacomb system, 208
Cortes, 138; Bay, 139. 1 Cardona, 426 Catalan bay, 278
Cadiz to Gibraltar, 142 Caridad, la, 190 Catalines in c0tton,.393
-—- to Seville by land, ; Carlos San, de la. Rabi Catalonia, 391
155 ta, 389 Catalonia, books on, 395
to Seville by steam, Carlos Tercero, order of, Catalan character, 392
153 195 costume, 394
to Southampton, Iarlota, 223 hatred of France,
1 30 , Carmenes, 296 295
Caimo, Padre, 73 ‘ Carmona, 222 rebellions, 395
Cal de Moron, 260 Carob tree, 362 -—- superstitions, 394
Calabria, duke of, 386 Carolina, 236 Cathedral of Seville, 178
Caldas las, 40 Carpio, 232 Catholic kings, tombs of,
Cales ; Gaddir, Gades, i Carpentry, 229 320
132 Carraca, la, 140 Cava, La, 280, 285
Calixtus III., 358. f Carratraca, 288 1 Caveda, Jose’, 73
Calle de los Abades, 189 1 Carreteria, la, 210 Caza mayor y menor, 47
Callosa, 351 1 Cartama, 266, 283 Cazalla, 221
Callos y menudos, 205 Carteia, 153 Cazorla, 336
Calpe, 271 Carter, F., book, 153 Cazuela, la, 101
Calvo, Baltazar, 367 Carthagena, 349 Ceca, la, 228
Cambrils, 390 1 —— to Adra, 333 Ceceo, cl, 128
Camiuos reales, 20 to Alicante, 351 Cecilio, San, 323
Campana, Pedro, 182 Carthagena to Murcia, Celadores, 185
Campbell, Sir Colin, 150, 349 Cell of S. Francis, 415
269, 280 Carthaginians in Spain, Celtiberian, the, 394
Campo de Gibraltar, 268 349 Central table-land, 28
-i de Montiel, 243 Cartoajal, Conde, defeat Cepa de Cordova, 224
Camprodon, 430 of, 247 Cepero, Dean, 188, 192
Campus juncarius, 437 Cartuja dePortaceli, 384 Cerda, la, 358
Canas las, 105 —— of Grenada, 324 Ceremonial, forms of, 123
Cancel, 173 — of Seville, 211 Ceremonious murder, 96
Candil, cl, 215 of Xerez, 158 Cerrageria, la, 192
Cflnlgfi, the, 430, 438 1 Carvings by Cano, 319 Cerros de Ubeda, 336
.Cannon, early, 343 ‘L Casarabonela, 266 Cervantes, remarks on,
Cano, Alonso, 318 > Casa del Carbon, 322 238
, pictures by, 318, del Gallo, 323 -—-, best editions of,
319 de Pilatos, 172, 187 241
-—, wife murder, 384 -Z Pupilos. 25 Caesar at Manda, 282
, carving, 347 Sanchez, 313 —- at Cadiz, 132
Cafios de Carmona, 204 Cascales, F., 339 —-—_- Borgia, 358, 363
Cantabrian zone, 28 = Cassagne, F. Gen., sack, Cespedes, Pablo de, 183,
Cantillana, 221 259 225
Capa, 110, 113 Castalla, 356 . Ceuta, 280
Capataz, 157 Castanets, 104 C_habran, cruelty, 407
Cape S. Vincent, 130 Oastaiios, character of, Challenges,Sp. sentinels’,
Capeo el, 90 234 123
‘ Capilla Real, 59 at Bailen, 233 Chan, E., 72
Capmany, Antonio, 396 , Castcllar, 279 Chap books, 84
INDEX TO PdRT I. 445

CHARLIE. CORDEROS. | CUEVA SANTA.

Charge of cavalry, one, 1 Cod-liver oil, 121 5 Cordilleras, las, 28, 30


235, 248, 437 Codrington, AdmL, 400 Cordwain, 230
Charles X., 273 Cofradías, 49-52, 364 Coria, 155
Charles V. on Boabdil, Coger la verbena, 200 Cork wood, the, 279
328 Colbato, 419 Corn und dry measures,
-—— at Cordova, 230 Colgaduras, 59 71
i, palace of, 298, 303 Colegio, el, 91 Cornejo, P. D., 230
Chateaubriand, inaccura Collingwood, Lord, 147 Cornudo paciente, 213
cies, 75, 179, 294, 322 Coll de Balaguer, 390 Corpus, at Valencia, 364
Chateau en Espagne, 32, Colon, tomb of, 179 Corral del Conde, 188
303 Columbina, la, 176 Correa, Don P. P., Mi
Chelva, 384 Columbus on bridge of racle, 218
Cherta, la, 396 Pinos, 257 Cortadura, la, 142
Chestalgar, 384 at Palos, 163 Cortes ofCadiz, 133, 138
Chiclana, snakes, 143 Combermere, Lord, 219 Cortijo del Puche, 327
Chirivel, 344 Comer hierro, 173 Cosas de España, T0
Chivata, la, 94 Commis voyageurs, 394 , Coso, 409
Chotbá, 229 Compania, jesnit, 425 Costume, 110
Christopher, St., 181 Comparsas y Rocas, 364 Coto del Rey, 165
, his moth, 370 Conca de Berberá, 406 Cot-"-s, shooting, 157
Christobal, S.,the moun Concentaina, 357 ; Council of llliberis, 325
tain, 263 Concepciones by Mu~ Country life iu Sp., 34
Chulilla, 384 rillo, 196 Court of Lions, 310
Chulos, 95 Concubines ofclergy, 189 Courtesy, forms of Sp.,
Church—seeing, hints on, Condado, El, 162 122
58 Conde de España, 410 Covarrubias, Don S., 67
Churriguerismo, el, 56 , death, 428 ' l Creed, cautions as to
Cid at Valencia, 366 Conde, J. A., 72 ' Sp., 120, 207 '
Cieza, 348 Conde de Morella, 389 Creux, Jaime, 434
Cigarito, 109 Condeza de Teba, 264 Crevillente, 352
Cigars, 109, 206 Conduct, hints on, 118 Cristiano Viejo, 118
Cigarreras, 206 Conejo, the rabbit, 47 Cristo de Beyrut, 379
Cilia, 382 Conil, 145 Crochart, M., 387
Cimborio, 58 Constantina, 221 ' Cross engraved with the
Cinta. la, of Tortosa, 398 Consulado del Mar, 409 nails, 229
Cirio Pasqual, 180 ' Contaduría of Seville, _ Cross‘of Caravaca, 345
Cisterns, M., 302 177 Crosses of Murder, 263
Cistus of Venus, 398 Contemporary SOVE Crows, Holy, 199
Citadel of Barcelona, 417 reigns, 62 Crucifying boys by
Clay figures, Sp., 287 Contrabandista, el, 252 Jews, 244
Claustro chico, 190 Convention of Cintra, Crucifix of Valencia,
Clemente, S. Rojas, 158 233 374
Cleons in calico, 393 Conveyancing, M., 316, Cruz del Campo, 359
Clergy of Seville, 61, 189 322 Cruzada, bull of, 204
Climate of Spain, 37 Conversational phrases, Cuarto real, 315
-—— of Malaga, 283 Sp., 68 Cuarto (coin), 16
of Seville, 167, 170 Copper mines, Rio Cuatro Reinos, los, 127
, trees atest of, 235 Tinto, 217 Cuatro tiros, 275
Cloak, l 10 Cordova, 224 Cucufat, S., 415
Coal mines, 221 to Granada, 256 Cuernos, 96 <
Cob walls, 162 Cordova, Gonzalo de, Cuesta ; arriba, abajo,
Coche de Colleras, 23 225, 35s 30
Cockfighting, 380 at Loja, 256 Cuesta de las lagrimas,
Cochrane, Lord, 4.35, 438 Cordovese horses, 232 328
. Cod-fish, salted, 209 Corderos de Pascua, 205 Cueva Santa, 384
446 INDEX TO PART I.

CUEVA. D URO. LA ESPADA .


Cueva del Gato, 262 Dictionary, Sp., 67
——- (le Sn. Ignacio, 424 —-_—- de bellas artes,_7_2 E.
——- de Mengal, 266 - D1‘e(1;irtes:;4l;s, de la V1e_|a,
—— de Montesinos, 243 .. J Eagle catchers, 87th, 150
-—- del Becerro, 264 ‘ Dieznia, 342 Early cannon, 343
Cufic, 305 p Digestions, Sp., 38 Echandole en cueros, 26
Ciudad Real, 247 ‘ D1_1ous gras, 410 ECgl321g€TTl, P., defeat of,
Cullar de Baza, 344 Bifigences, 23 48
Cullera, 382 , 1 etante tours Ecija, 223
Cuna La, 134, 201 ' gilletante wtoi-ks,best1,2i7 Ecclesiological tour, 58
Cuneus, 130 irectionso etters Ebro, the river, 389
Curate’s mule, 427 f. Disciplina arcani, 424 Eden, Sir Wm., 3
Custodial, 60 1 Disco of Theodosius, 249 Editions of Cervantes,
, Seville, 182 I Distances, 71 240
Custom-houses and oili Divo Augusto 400 Education, Jesuit, 425
cers, 15, 253, 286 Doblon, 16 ’ Egilona, 168
Cypresses of Generalife, Documents, F. and Sp., Egregious doctor, 168
314 76 79 Elche, 352
i Dolce far niente life, 38, I the Palms, 352
171 to Alicante, 354
D. 1 Dolores, 300 —— to Madrid, 352
3 Domecq wine, V158 Z to Xativa, 353
Dallas, 333 j Domini Canes, 379 Elda, 3.53
Dances of Gipsies, 104 j Don, the title, 101 Elephantiasis, 202
Darro, river, 316 , Bon,J(;en1., 259 Eleven thousand vir
Deal, how to deal with ‘ on uan 201 gins, 337
Sp., 278 i Dormer, .1’ane, 248 Elio, Spanish general,
>
Decoration, 305 r Dornajo, el, 327 F. X., 367
Decree of Andujar, 233 i Douglas, the good Lord —- restored when
Defeat, Sp. at Ciudad I James 264 dead, 378
Real, 247 Downie,,Sir John, 170 Eliott, E., General, 273
Dehesas y despoblados, Dragon tree, 135 ' Elorza, Col, 221
129, 254 | Drake, Adml. E., 351 Elvira, Puerta dc, 323
Delicias, las, 208 < Dressing graven images, Embolados, 90
Denia, 382, 52 Embozo, el, 115
Depping, book, 73 Drought, 3-'3, 338 Emigdio, San, 352
Departmentalization, 32 Druidical cave 266 Emir al Mumenin, 225
Derechos de puerta, 15 ‘. Dryness of Sp’. climate, Emplazado, el, 259
Descabellar, el, 98 l 29, :32 Emporize, 438
Desengafio, el, 422 ‘ Dncado, 17 _ ‘ Emporio de el Orbe, 132
Desjarretar, el, 97 Duhesme, F. Genl., Y Encierro, el, 91
Despejo. el, 92 cruelty and perfidy, English fire-arms, 15
Despatches,Wellington’s, 419, 423, 433, 435, 437 Engiitterte, 380
S1 ‘ Duke, the, see Welling Engravings, Sp. 55
Despefia-perros, 237 ton - Enredos y embnstes, 278
Dessolles, Genl., 237 Dulces, sweetmeats, 355 Epistolar forms, 124
Deten tu el din, 218 Dulcinea del Toboso, 244 Epistola, lado de, 59
Devil, riding the, 259 Dumanoir Adi. F. mis Era, the, 64
--i. dancing on a thea conduct: 146 , Eras, 245
tre, 231 Dupont, F. Genl., defeat, Eras de Cristo, 324
Devil’s Bridge, 418 plate plunder, 229, Ercilla, Alonso de, 246
Devisa,'la, 95 231, 233 Escaldos, 429
Dia de su Santo, 122 Dupona, una, 235 , Escopeteros, 27
Dial, 408 Duque de Bailen, 234 Eseosura, P., 57
Dibdin, Dr., 295 Duro, dollar, 16 Espada, la, 96
1.\'I)l~IX TO PART 1. 447
I.'SPADAX 1 1-‘onus. GANDIA.

0 Espadan, 387 Fanfaron, 128 Fortress, Sp., a faiblesse,


Espanol, Jnan, 238 . Faroles, 195 431'
Ilnstrado, 46 Fe, la, 120 Forwarding baggage par
Espafia artistica, 57 Felipe, San, 357 cels, 19
—— Sagrada, 74 1 Feliu, San, 434 Foy, F., Gen1., his
Espanas, las, 12 Female goddess, popu works, 75
Espanolismo, 118, 193, lar, 53 Fraga to Amposta, 396
232, 235, 289, 417 Female preacher, 404 Frail ladies converted,
Espardinos, 365 Ferdinand Vll., return 434
Espartero, Baldomero, to S., 436 Francis I . prisoner, 383
2-l-7 Ferdinand and Isabella, Francis, Dr., work on
Espnrto, 339 tombs of, 320 climate of Sp., 37
Espnrraguera, 419 Ferias, 61 Frankenau on Sp. he
Espinel, Vicente de, 262 ‘ Feria de Ronda, 262 raldry, 64
Espinosa, I. G., 375 -— de Santi Ponce, 213 Fraser, river, 430
Esq., avoid it in directing , i- dc Sevilla, 200 Freire, Sp. Genl. defeats,
E. letters to Spain, 22 Fernando,San, king, 169 245, 257,343,344, 341
Essex, Lord, 132 tomb, 183 French spy at Seville,
Estnciones, las, 187 town, I42 191
Estepona, 281 Ferrer, Sn. Vicente de, Frenchmen, fine qualities
Estofar, el, 52 378 of, 80
Estrefia, 122 Ferro Carril, the rail, 19 ——- Martial merits, 80,
Estrevillo, 107 Festina lente, 139, 144, 236
Etymology, erroneous, 156 _ Frontales, 202
168 Fetish worship, 258 Frnctuoso, San, 40-1
Eulalia, S., of Barce Fever of Gibraltar, 274 Fucngirola, 282
lona,413 Fiametta 0fAriosto, 357 Fuggers, the, 219, 220
Europa point, 271 Fiestas de precepto, 197 Fuente de los Avellanos,
Evaporation & drought, de Calle, 364 322
31, 149 ‘ de Sevilla, 167 —— de la Higuera, 354
Evangelio, lado de, 59 Fiesta real, 89 -i de Ovejuna, 219
Evil eye, 302 dc Toros, 89 Fuensanta, Virgin of,
Excellencia, 124 Fig of Spain, 67 346
Exchange, par, 17 Figueras, 436 Funcion, 104
Excursions near Gra —— to Rosas, 438 de Gitanos, 201
nada, 325 Figueroas, the, 2-18 en Triana, 166
Exercitatorium, 42-L Filabres, Sierra de, 335 Fundicion,1a, of Seville,
Expulsion of Jesuits, Fine weather, effect of, 204
425 143
-i of Moriscos, 293 Fire-arms, English, 48 G.
Eye lotion, 121 Fishing tour, 47
Flax, 344 Gabacho, 285
Flies of Sn. Narciso, 434 Gaditanian dancers, 104
F. Florentina, Saint, 347 Gaditanaz iinprobzc, 132
Florez, H.,his works, 74 Gaddir, 132
Fabian warfare, 235 Flos Sanctorum, 75 Gador, Sierra de, 331
Fabrica de tabacos, 206 Focaria, 189 Gafo, 202
Facon de parler, 77 Fonda, 24 Galera, 23
Facistoles, 58 Fons divinus, 265 Gallinetas,woodcocks, 47
Factor, Beato Nicolas, ——- Mellaria, 219 Gallumbo, 90
376 Foot, female, Sp., 137 Gamba, la, 181
FalcoTinunculoides, 175 1 Ford, Richard, works on Gambote, 394
FBI], 67, 112 Sp., 88 Game in Spain, 47
Fanega, 71 Forms of Sp. courtesy, Ganando horas, 22
Fandango, 103 122 Gandia, 382
448 INDEX T0 PART I.

GANDUL. GRANADA. GU.-\D_-\LL'ITE

Gandul, 254 Gorman, wine, 154 Monte Sacro, pious "


Garay, Blasco de, 417 Gorro, 394 frauds, 322; San Ce
Garrocha, 90 Gothalunia, 391 cilio, San Nicolas, Al
Garters, Manchegan, -‘ Gough, Lord, 150 baicin, Triunfo, 323;
242 E Goya, 182 Cartuja, Juan de Dios,
Gaucin, 267 I Gracia, Andaluza, 128 San Jeronimo, Great
Gaya, river, 406 , Gradas, las, 58, 177 Captain, 324 ; San An
Gayates, 388 1 Graena, 343 gustias, excursions near
Gay-angos, P. de, T2, 1 Graham, Genl., victory Granada, Soto de Roma,
226, 231, 294 I at Barrosa, 144 1 325; Santa Fé, 326;
Gazpacho, 216, 362 ' Granada,kingdom0fi291 ascent of Sierra Ne
Gebal Tarik, 272 ti/'anada.—lnus, guides vada, 327 ; summit,
Gelves, 214 Vega, 295; society, heights of mountains,
Generalife, 315 condition, .Al/zambru, Huecar, ultimo sus
General of Jesuits, 425 history of rise, 297; piro del Moro, 328 ;
Gens togata, 400 motto, Charles V., in Zubia, 329.
Geography of Sp., 27 neglect and decay, Granada, Books on, 294
books on, Sp., 73 299; partial restora effects of conquest
Geological construction tion, 3110 ; Torres Ber of, 294
of Sp., 28 mejas, fountains, gate, 4 arms of, 63
Geolog , abstract of Sp., 301; emblems, cis —— to Adra, 329
42 terns, Alcazaba, Vega, —— to Almeria, 329
of Catalonia, 392 302 ; Torre de la Vela, i to Andujar, 258
Gerrnania, 67 ' adarves, Palace of —— to Cordova, 256
Gerigonza, 67 Charles V., 303; ex i 110 Motril, 332
Gerona, 435 terior, architecture, ——- to Murcia, 342
-—— to Barcelona, 432 304; decoration, in -—- to Ronda, 264
Z to Perpinan, 436 scriptions, azulejos, -——- to Seville, 254
to Sn. Laurent, 435 305; stalactical pen -——- to Seville by Jaen,
-— to Urge], 430 dcntives, courts, 306; 258
Geryon, his bulls, 89, archives, Mezquita, Granatula, 247
142 307; halls, 308; baths, GranCapitan,el. SccGon
Gesticulation, S., 67 Court of Lions, 309; zalo de Cordova, 225,
Gibraleon, 165 of the Abencei-rages, 256
Gibraltar, 269 painted ceilings, Sala Grandiloquence, Sp., 65
——- value of, 273 de Justicia, 311; re Granja, La, 32 V
i to Cadiz, 142, 1-13 flections on, 312; hill Grao. el, 381
to Malaga, 280 of, Casa Sanchez, Mez Gratificacioncita, 25
to Ronda, 267 quita towers, 313; Gravina, Adm., 138
Gipsey dances, 104 towers, ravages of Se dying speech, 146
Giralda, la, 173 bastiani, Generalife, Grazalema, 263
Girandillo, cl, 174 cypresses, 314; Cam Great Diana of Catalo
Giron, Pedro, 254 pp) Santo, Mazmorras, nia, 420
Gitanos, 67 s Martires, Museo, Great Captain, the. See
Gloire, La, 75 Cuarto real, 315; G.deCordova,225,256
Goat soup, Fr., 233 River Darro, Zacatin, 1- tomb of, 324
Gog and Magog, 164 Xenil, 316; gates, Great men, paucity in
Gold washers, 316 plaza, figs, 317; ca Sp. of, 139
Golden Fleece, installa thedral, pictures, car Greatness of Sp. short
tion, 413 vings by Cano, 319; lived, 87
Goles, 201 Capilla dc los reyes, Gracco Romano style, 56
Gongora, Luis de, 225 tombs, Isabella, 320; Green eyes, 281
Good thief, the, 422 relics, Pulgar, H. de, Guadairo, venta del, 267
Gor, Venta de, 343 321; Alcaiseria, Casa Guadalcanal mines, 219
Gordon, wine, 140, 158 del Carbon, chancery, , Guadalete, el, 158
INDEX TO PART I. 449
GUADAl.QlJ1VIP.. I IRFANTE. JL'S’1‘l.\‘A.
Guadalquivir river, 154 Herrera el viejo, 192, 204 Infantes de la Cerda, 358
Guadiaua, ojos de, 243 Hijos dc Ganancia, 189 Inglis, Mr., 176
Guadix, 342 Higuera, la real, 218 Ingratitude, Sp., 133
Guardias civiles, 27 , Hill forts 0fSp., 252 Inquisition, Sp., 206
Guarin, Juan, 421 Himilce, 337 ——- of Seville, 200
Guerillas, 78 Hints to artists, 45 Introduction, letters of,
Guerillero, the, 252 ‘ Invalids, 37 f 121
Guerra al Cuchillo, 343 Hispal, 168 ‘ Invalids, hints to, 37
Guerras de Granada, 294 llogazas, 159 Iriarte, 161
Guesclin, du, 248 lloly Fennel, 358 Irrigation, M., 361
Guides, Sp., bad, 5 , Ilouneur, F., 77 Isabella la Catolica, 321
GuideduVoyageur,F.,84 , Hospitalet, 390 i at Baza, 343
Guitars, Sp., 106, 131 Hospitals fired on, 423 Isabelinos, coin, 16
Guste v. comer, 123 Host, the, 120 lsidoro, 198
Guzman el Bueno, He Hostalrich, 432 Isidro, San, appears as a
roism, 149 Hiiuris, 312 shepherd, 236
tomb, 213 , Houses, Sp., suited to Isla, La, 141
climate. 412 Isla de Leon, 141
,IIowlings of Tarshish,, Italica, 212
H. 107 328
i Huecar,

Habas verdes, 106 Huelva, 163 J.


Hablar Castelluno, 66 1 Huerta de Murcia, 346
Hacha. la, 397 de Valencia, 361 Jabea, 382
Hallarse en cinta, 398 Humilladero, 161 Jaen, 258
Halley, Dr., 149 Hygienic hints on Sp. to Almeria, 335
Hams, Sp., 331 climate, 37 Jaime de Crevillente, 352
Hands, female Sp., 403 Jaime the Conqueror,
I-Iannibalis turres, 162 406
Hardales, 288 I. Jameson, Mrs., 421, 434
Hay, Mr., 279 Jamones de Tre \'elez,330
Hazahas, El de las, 321 lberus, 389 5 Janitore, 138
Head, Sir E. W., 72 Iberian or Eastern zone, Jarama, bulls, 90
Health of a riding tour, 29 J arro con acucenas, 196
39 lbi, 356 J erga, 67
Health ofiicers, Sp., 131 Ibn Zohr, 224 Jervis, Adml., 131
Hecho de bronze, 39 Ibn Abdallah, 226 Jesuits, the, 424
Hediontla, 281 Ibnu-1-ahrnar, 226, 258, —— costume, 425
Hegira, the Moorish, 64 292 ho\v painted in Sp.,
Hellin, 3-18 _ Iconoclasrn, 48 425
Heraldry, Sp. books on, Ignacio Loyola, 424 Jews of Gibraltar, 273
64 bust of, 197 Joanes, V., 375
Hercules, Temple of, 141 . , San, cave, 424 John of Austria, Don,415
Heredia, M. A. de, 287 llliberis, 292, 325. | Jose Maria, 255
Hermandad, la Santa, Illo, Pepe, 100 Joyas, 225
247 Irnages,holy,dressed and 1 Juan de Alfarache,San,
Hermitages of Cordova, painted, 51 214
231 Irnagenes Sagradas, 52 Juan dc Dios, San, 324
Hermits of Monserrat, Immaculate Conception, 1 Julian, Count, 280
42.2 I94 1 Junta, Sp., 139
Heroic title of Sp. cities, Impertinente curioso, 87 , Junquera, la, 437
64 Implicit obedience, 358 ‘ Justicia, Sp., 410
Heroica, 134, 172 ‘ Index expurgatorius, 83 Justina y llufina, 17 5
Herradura, la, 90 Inedia et labor, 171
Herrera el Mozo, 176 lnfante ofAntequera, 265 |
450 INDEX TO PART L

K.-\P.NAT’1‘A1I. MADOZ. MATIIOLA.

Lightning conductors, Madre vino, 158


K. Madrid to Elche, 352
p., 352
Karnattah, 292 Lilies of the Virgin. 265_ to Murcia, 348
Kermes cochenilla, 284 Linares, 337 to Seville, 221
Key to decypher Sp., 7 Linderaja, Patio de, 312 Madridejos, 244 ~
Key, symbol of, 302 Lines, the, of Gibraltar, Maestranza, 91
Kiblah, 229 268 Maestrasgo, 389
Kingdom ofGranada, 291 Liiuia, 159 Magioges, 164
Kings of Sp., list, 61 Linois, Adml., 152 Magnanima mensogna, 79
Knives, Sp., 343 Liquid measures, 71 Mahon, Lord, 81
Konscosou, 279 I ,iria, 383 1 Mahy, Sp. Genl., defeat,
Lisbon, earthquake. ef 367
fects of, 145 Mail coaches, Sp., 22
L. Llauder, Genl., 410 Mairena, fair of, 222
Llerena, 218 Maison, Mons., plagia
Labaro, 1 75 Llivia, 429 risms, 87, 295
Laborde, A., book, 76 Llobregat, the, 408 1\Iajo, 128
Ladies of Cadiz, 136 Lodgings to let, the at a fair, 222
Lado de la Epistola, 59 ‘ sign, 25 -—- Xerezano, 156
i.- del Evangelio, 59 Loja, siege of, 255 Majolica, 17 3, 380
Ladrones en grande, 26 Lomas de Ubeda, 336 Maksurah, 229
Lagarto, el, 177 Longanizas, 431 Mal de ojo, 365
Lagartos, 213 Lonja, 58 Malaga, 283
Lagunas de Ruidera, 243 of Seville, 177 to Adra, 332
Lakes, absence of Sp., 31 Lorca, 344 to Gibraltar, 280
Language, character of Lorqui, 348 ———— to Granada, 288
Sp., 64 Loss of guns, Murray, to Ronda, 266
Lanjaron, 330 Sir John, 400 Maldonado, J. M., book,
Laynez, Diego, 424 I Lover’s leap and rock, 266 78
Leather, Sp., for book- I Lowe, Sir Hudson, 435 Mallara, Joan de, on
binding, 366 Loyola, portrait of, 197 Proverbs, 242
Lebrija, 161 ———’s cave, 424 Mafiana, 127
Leche y sangre, 193 Lncar, San, 153 Mai‘1a.ra, 190
Lee, Mr.,books and pass ——- to Portugal, 165 Mancha, la, 237
ports, 67 Lucena, 257 Mancbego, el, 237
Legenda Aurea, 75 Lucina sine concubitu, Manchester the, of Ca
Leges Rhodiae, 409 196 talonia, 408
Leguas, leagues, 20 Luggage, 1 19 Manises, 383
Lejias, 362, ss2 Luna, the Pope, 388 —-, clay of, 380
Leonora de Guzinan,144 Lusitanian or Western Mannert, K., 73
Lepe, 164 zone, 29 Mano it la teta, 193
Lepers, 202 Manos blancas, 403
Lethe, 159 Manoeuvres, naval, F.,
Letters, how to be di M. 146
rected, how to be Mantillas, 110, 137
asked for, 22 Macael, 335 Manresa, 423
Letters and post-oflice, 21 I Macarena, 202 Manzanares, town of, 243
Letters of introduction, Macdonald, Marshal, Manzanilla wine, 154
121 cruelties, 423, 426, 437 Maquinas de sangre, 204
Library of Columbus, 1 76 Machuca, Pedro, 203, 303 Maravedi, 15
Librito de fumar, 357 -—-, el, 176 Marbella, 281
Libro del Consulado, 396 Macharnudo, sherry, 158 March, E., 376
Libros de Entreteni Madexa, 169 Marchena, J. P. de, 163
miento, 84 Madoz, Pasc. Dict°. Mariana, Historia de, 72
Liger Bellair, sack of,242 1 Geo°., -73 Mariola, Sierra de, 357
INDEX TO PART I. 451

MARlS1\L\ . MONTLUIS. ‘ lIUSCATELS

Marisma, 154, 155 Mina de Ronda, 262 Monumento, el, 60


Marismillas, 165 , Mifiano, S., book, 73 i of Seville, 179
Mark, Mr., 284 ; Mines, ancient, 340, 341 Moorish architecture, 56
Marquito, miracle, 219 Mineral baths, 40 Mora de Ebro, 399
Martires, los, convent 1 Mines of Murcia, 339 Morales, Ambrosio de,
of, 315 ‘_ Mining mania, 339 225
Martorell, 419 ‘ Ministerial departments, el divino, pictures,
Marshals, F.,rivu1ry, 1-15 1 Sp., 33 l '21s '
Masdeu, J. F., book, 73 \ Minutoli, his book, 33 Morbid self-love, Sp., 87
Master, Sp. language, G7 1 Miracles dc Sn. Vicente, 1 Morel, B., 174
Matador, 92 379 I Morella, 389
Matagorda, 140 p Misa de Madrugada, 117 , Moreno, Sp. Genl., 286
Mataro, 433 1 Miserere at Valencia, 373 ‘ Moreria, La, 188
Mateo Ximenez, 300 ' Misgovernment, Sp., 28, 1‘ Moriscos, los, 293
Matrimonio, Sanchez de, 1 74 , expulsion of, 293
225 y Mitjana, R., 266 ' Moron, 260
Maurice, Mathieu, 401 i, Mocado,'39-L Morris dances, 105
Mazmorras, 315, 387 Mogigangas, 164 Moscas de San Narciso,
Meats, Sp., 200 ,7, Moguer, 163 434
Medallas de Espaiia, 74 ' Mohamedan dynasties in Mosquitos, remedy, 121
Media Espada, 97 Sp., 72 Motril to Granada, 332
-—- Luna, 97 Molina, Argote de, 169 ' Mountain wines, 287
-—- Valenciana, 365 Molins del Key, 407 Mounzainons character of ‘
Medias caladas. 137 i Moncey, Marshal, 367 Sp., 28
Medina Sidonia, 143 Money, first want of Sp., Moya on Sp. heraldry, 64
Mediterranean, 151 15 Mozo y Muchacha, 25
Melach, 284 Monda, the battle, 282 Muelas, resurrection of
Melcarth, 153 Mondejar, on the Era, 64 sp., 11s
Mena, Juan de, 236 Monforte, 353 ' Mulahacen, 327
Mendez, F., book, 83 Mongé, el, 417
Monjuich, 382 Mule arbiter, 427
Mendoza, Card., 320 Muleteers, Arrieros, 23
Meneo, 137 Monkeys of Gibraltar, Mufiecas, patio de las, 186
Mengal, Cneva de, 266 277 Murchison, Sir R., 42
Mengibar, 258 M0110, el, 365 Murcia, kingdom of, 338
Mentiras y disperates,1 2 5 Monos, los, 277 --, 346
Mequinenza, 399 Monopodio, 210 -——- to Granada, 342
Monovar, 353 1 -—- to Cartagena, 349
Merchant’s mark, 409 l
Mesa del Rey, 161 Monserrnt, 419, 422 lI —-— to Madrid, 348

Mezquita of Alhambra, Monta_1‘1a, 30 1 Murder crosses, 263


307 Montafies, el, 157 i removed, 359
—— de Cordova, 227 ' 1, Virgin by, 179 i Murillo, B., three styles,
Micalet, el, 368 Montano, Arias, 197, 218 ‘I 191
l
Michalot de Prades, 363 Montblanch, 406 1 house, 188
Midwifery, Sp., 398, 426 Montbrun, F. Genl., ra- i , conceptions by, 196
Miel de Cana, 289 , vages, 349, 353, 354 L —-— death, 191
Migas, 216 \ Monte Agudo, 346 l -— ashes scattered, 182
Miguelites,
Mih-rab, 22927 —-— Sacro, 322 —-— pictures, Seville,
Montejaque, 262 193
Military,E.,agents to Sp., , Montera, 237 at the Caridad, 191
356 1 Montes, F., 100 Murphy, C., book, 295
-—w- matters, booksF.,
romancing, 011,75
76, Montesa, 354Manuel, 377 Murray, Sir John, mis
,i Montesinos,
conduct, 353, 356, 400,.
78 1 Montiel, battle of, 243 435
Military tour, 46 1l Montilla, wine, 224 Murviedro, 385
Mina, cruelty, 398 Muscatels, 287
1 Montluis to Urge], 428
'4.-32 INDEX TO PART I.

MUSEO. OLMO. PALOMIN 0.


- Museo of Seville, 192 Non Natus, the Saint, 0101.’, 431
Music. Sp., 102 426 Olvera, 260
Muwallads, 226 Nonsense, annuals, 312 One cavalry charge, ef
, -—--, Mr. Urquhart, 271 fects of, 235, 243, 431,
I Noria, the, 361 437
N. 1 Normans in Spain, 164 Onza, (coin, precautions),
1 Norman style in Sp., 16
Napier, history, 80, 81 s 403, 413 Orleans, Regent, 397
Napoleon. S00 ]3uona Nosotros, ‘claims of‘, 70, Ormond, Lord, 133
parte. 74, 73, 133, 144,151, Opposition, the En., 80
Napoleones (coin), 16 233, 236, 250, 332, 2'51, Oranges of Seville, 214
Naranja, 214 ' 417 Ordal, 407
Narciso, S11., hisflies, 434 ‘ Nothus, 337 Orgafni, 427
Narvaez, alcaide, 265 Novillos, 90 Orihnela, 351
1. Gen., 256 ‘ Nncvas poblaciones, 236 Orjiba, 330
Nation of shopkeepers, Nuggets, 316 Orozuz, 351
En., 394 Nulla fides servanda est Oropesa, 388
National resistance, Sp., Hereticis, 425 Orospedan chain, 342
79 Nuilez y Taboada, dict°., Orrente, P. style, 375
——- weakness, Sp. 125 67 Osius, Bishop, 224, 325
Natural children of Sp. Nuts, 392, 405 Osorio, Uraca, 213
kings, 246 Osuna, 254
Naturalistic tours, 41 Owen Jones, 295, 304
Naval tour, 46 O.
Navarro, P. G., 388
Navas, 236 Oaths, Sp. 67 P.
Navas dc Toloso, battle, Obedience, Sp., implicit
236 to king, 358 Pacheco, F., 75
Navigation of Ebro, 389 Oblivion, river of, 159 Paciecus, 279
Navy, Sp., 141, 350 Obras de Devocion, 84 Paciencia y barajar, 7
Nebritsensis, 161 de los Godos, 56 Padilla, Maria de, 186
Neighbour, Sp., hatred Obregon, Marcos de, 262 Padul, 330
of, 353 Ocana, 246 Painted sculpture, Sp., 51
Nelson, Thiers on, 77 , battle of, 2-15 1 Painters, chief Sp., 55
at St. Vincent, 1311 Ocean, the, 130 Paintings in Alhambra,
—— at Trafalgar, 145 Ochavo, 16 31 1
Neskhi, 305 O’Donnell, Jose, 356 Painting, tour, 54
Neutral ground, 269 Offering your house, Sp., Pajarete, 158
New style in Sp., 64 122 Pajez, guitars, 107, 131
Nicodemus, image carved dinner, 123 Palabras, Sp., 65, 139
by, 379 1 Ojala, 121 Palacios, los, Sp. 161
Nicolas, San, 323, 355 Ojen, 282 Paleozoic, rocks of, Sp.,
Niculoso, 186 Ojos de la Guadiana, 243 43 '
Niebla, 164 Ojos verdes, 281 Palladium of Barcelona,
Night in Seville, 199, 209 Olavide, Pablo, 236 413
Nino de Gnardia, 244 Oldegar, Sn., legend, _ of Catalonia, 422
Nifios de Ecija, 223 403, 414 of Granada, 325
Nocturnal promenades, Old gods popular, 364 -— of Tortosa, 398
199 Old sites, 228, 261, 385 , ' of Valencia, 371
Nodo, e1. 169 ' Old style, 64 Palm trees, the, 352
Nodus I-lerculis, 169 ‘ O‘Lea, Casa de, 187 —— of Co1'dova, 230
Nogueras, Gen., woman ‘ Olive farm and olives, Palmitos, 129
murder, 398 214 ‘ Palos, 163
popular, 399 Olivares, town of, 199 1 Palomino, book on art,
N0 se pucde, 5, 39 Olmo, J. de, 208 , 75
INDEX T0 PART I. 453

PAN. PONL PYRENEE&

Pan de Dios, 159 Perros, 95. Poore, Laurence, 175


Pan y Peces, Murillo, Perttis, col de, 437 Popes, Sp., 359
191 Peseta, 16 Population, Sp., 33
Pafio pardo, 116, 237 Peso, 17 Porron, 394
Pantano de Lorca, 344 Petaea, 109. Port Vendres, 439
-i de Tibi, 355 Peterborough, Lord, 400 Posada, 24
Pantheon, -t9 ‘Peter Martyr of Angle Post-horses, charges, 21
Papel de hilo, 357 ria, 294 ,i Post-oflice
Pott on and letters, 21
Parameras, las, 28 Peuel,353 gipsies, 67
Parapanda, 303 Pfendler, Dr., 327 Pradt, Abbé de, 77
Parklike. scenery, 218 ' Philip IV.,el grande, 290 ' Prescott, 163, 256, 294,
Parole, F., 77 Philosophy of ‘if,’ 66 321
Parra, la, 177 Phmnician policy, 349 Presidio, 411
Parti prétre, 422 Phormio and Hannibal, correccional, 377
Paso of the Virgin, 53 81 Primary rocks, Sp., 42
Pasos, 50 Phrases, Sp., 68 Principality of Catalo
Passamonte, Juan, 244 I Picacho, el, 327 nia, 391
Passavant, J .D., Book, 72 Picadores, 93 Prints in Sp., 55
Passport and precautions, Picardius, 113 .Processions at Seville,
13 Pico de Veleta, 327 194
Patio, 173 Pickman, Mr., 212, 227 Prodigios de valor, Sp.,
de la Alberca, 306 Pictures, Sp., 55 14,232
de Leones, 309 -——, cautions to pur Pronunciation, 66
de los Naranjos, 176 chasers, 55 Pronuuciamiento, 285,
Patricio, San, 345 Picturesque Barbarians, 354
Patrona of Barcelona, 5,46 Propina, 21
413 Pieces oflicielles, F., 79 Protestantism, Eng., 120
-—— of Granada, 325 Pigeon-fanciers, 368 Proverbs, Sancho Pan
Paul of Spain, the St., Pilatos, casa de, 187 za’s, 242
378 1 Pillars of Hercules, 271 Provincial divisions, Sp.,
Pedestrian tours (avoid), ‘ Pillo Andaluz, 234 33
23 Piueda, Mariana, 323 » Puertos,mountainpasses,
Pedigree, an old, 279 1 Pinos, bridge of, 257 30
Pedro el Cruel, palace, Phno,246 Puerto Lapiche, 244
185 . Piutor, de la Concepcion, Real, 140
-— murder of, 243 196 E ~--— de S. Maria, 139
Pedroso, el, 221 Pio Nono, his panacea, Serrano, 260
Pelar la pava, 173 194 Puente del Diablo, 402
Pellejos jaspeatlos, 366 Pious curiosity, 364 Z de Espia, 428
Peluqnero, cl, 372 frauds, relics, 322 de Ferreras, 402
Pefia La, Sp. Genl., mis ,1 Plate plunder, Fr., 60 Puigcerdzi, 428
conduct, 144 Plateresco, el, 56 Pulgar, H. P. de, 256,
Pena golosa, 387 ,' .Pleonasms, Sp., 66 321
Pendentives, Stalactical, l Plunder-Master-general Pundonot‘, 12
306 | Soult, 17 7 Punica tides, 99, 208,286,
Peninsular steamers, 18 1 Plus ultra, 63 a2r,s29,35s,3ss
Peiiiscola, 388 1 Pobla de L_illet, 430 Puntilla, 97
Pefion de los Enamora ‘ Poblet, 406 Purchasers of art, hints
dos, 266. l Polizones, 27 to, 55
People of Spain, 8, 79 ‘ Pollo, el, 116 Purchena, 335
Permian rocks, 43 Pomegranate, 297 Purones, 109
Perillo, 390 . Pompey, 153, 438 Purullena, 342
Perpiiian to Barcelona, Ponderacion, Sp,, 127 Putos, 224
431 Pontifex Maximus, 402 Pyrenees, 437
-— to Gerona, 435 Ponz, A., Viaje de, 73
454 INDEX TO PART I.

QUARANTA. ROELAS. '5 sr. vmcnur.


Resignation of Sp., 7 Roig, Padre, on Flies, 434
Q. Restoration of Virginity, Rollo, el, 223
Quaranta Horas, 59 421 Romance, language, 66
Quemadero, 206 Retablo, 59 1
' Romerias, 61
Quesada, General, 147, Retecilla, 96 Romey, Sp. History of, 73
272 Retirement, Sp., to a cell, ' Roncali, Count, 355
, venta de, 243 4'22 Ronda, 261
Quéslin, du, 243 Reus, Condes de, 405 V ——- to the Fair, 262
Granada, 251,264
Quicksilver mine, 219, Reus to Poblet, 405
220 Revenue of Sp., 33 —-——- to Gibraltar, 267
Quien sabe, 5 Rey Berrnejo, 186 to Malaga, 266
Quixote, Don, critique ;- Chico, el, 293 -—— to Seville by Esija,
of, 238 -——- portrait, 314 260
Reyes Catolicos, 63 to Seville, by Ol
Reyna Coquina, 300 vera, 260 4
R. Riafio, D. de, 182 ‘——- to Seville, by Za
Rabbit, the conejo, 47 Ribadeneyra, P., 75 hara, 260
Rabida, Sa. Maria de, Ribalta, ictures,374,375 Z to Xerez, 263
163 at xford, 375 , —— la. Vieja, 261
Rabitos, 163 Rihera, F. E. de, 187 1 Rondena, 107
Ragged staff, 277 Ribera, J. de, “lo Spag- 1 Ronquillo, Alcalde de,
Railway, Ferro carril, S., noletto,” 359 249
19 Rice, 361 , Rooke, Sir George, 272
Raisins, 287 Richards, Genl., 355 Roque, San, 268
Rambla, 20, 259 Rico, the monk, 367 Rosa, M. de la, 292
Ramon Nonat, St.-, 426 Riding post, Sp., 22 , Rosario of Virgin, 194
Rasgo Heroico, book, 64 Riding tour,benefits of, 38 Rosas, 438
Rateros, Raterillos, 26 Riego, 142 — to Figueras, 438
Real (coin), I6 Rigodones, 104 , Rossmassler, book, 412
Reding, Gen., at Bailen, Rincon, Antonio, 315 Rough it in Sp., 129
233 Rio Tinto, 217 Rovira, Dr., 437
, death of, 405 ‘ Verde, 281 ‘ Royal tombs, 406
Reflections on the Al Rioja, ode of, 213 i Rubrica, 125
hambra, 312 Ripoll, 431 Ruin, Spain one great, 57
Refranes, 242 Riquilda, legend of, 420 Ruiz, Fernando, 174
Regalada, la, 232 Rivalry of F. marshals, Rum and Beef, E., Foy
Regla de Santiago, 189 145 § on, 77
Reino de Murcia, 338 Rivers in Spain, 28, 30 1 Ruse doublée de terreur,
de Valencia, 360 Rivers, Lord, 255 77
Reja, 5s, 172 Roads, Sp., 20 l
Rejeros, best, 60 Roberts, David, 295
Rejon, 89
S.
Robbers, Precautions, 26
Relicario, el, 60 Rocadillo, el, 153 Sacando p1auos,,13
Relics forged, 322 Roca estrecha, 422 Saceruela, 242
Religion, in Spain, 61, Rocca, his book, 260 Sack, sherris, 157
207 Rocha Frida, 243 Sacristia, 60
Religious nomenclature, Roche, Col., 356 Sacristan, el, 60
.324 Rock, the, 271 -, Safar, 64
~—-—- stimulant, 422 Roda, 255 1 Sagrario, 60
i tour, G1 Roderick K. of the Goths, V Sagres, 130
Remembrances of riding 148 Saiuntum, 385
tours, 38 Rodrigo, fighting Archb., I Sainete, 101
Repartimiento of Seville, 236 , St. George, Hospital of]
169 Roelas, style of, 197,198, l 153
Repiqne, el, 175 199 St. Vincenthlegend, 130 '
INDEX TO PART I.

SALA. SEVILLE. SEVILLE.

Sala Capitular, 60 Sebastiani, pillage, 285, Gradus, Lonja, 177;


-——de las dos Herma V 294,s24,347,a4s cathedral described, to
nas, 311 i, ravages, Alham- \ 185; Alcazar, ib.; gar
— de 10s Embajadores, bra,299,3l3,325 dens, 186; Moorish
308 ——, cruelty, 294, 313, houses, 187; Casa de
Salado, battle of, 149 319, 331, 347 Pilatos, Murillo’s
Salados, 31 Seco, 157 house, 188; the elergy,
Salazar, S. de, 131 Secondary rocks of Sp., I 189; Caridad, Muril
Salduha, 281 43 bs, Soult’s plunder,
Salinas, las, 142 Securities, avoid Sp., 121 190 ; pictures, collec
Salitres, 203 Sed la, Murillo, 191 tions, cautions to pur
Salmonetes, 138 Segorbe, 384 chasers, 191 ; Museo,
Salobrefia, 332 - Segre, river, 428 Murillos, 193; Imma
Salon, el, 136, 208 Seguidillas, 238 culate Conception, the
Salon, port of, 405 Segura, forest of, 336 dogma and observance,
Salt mine at Cardona, 426 i, river, 346 how painted, Univer
Salto tras cuerno, 96 l Siege deof Leon, 218 152, ,
Algeciras, sity, 196 ; churches,
San Pan, 397 198 ; plazas and pro
Sanchez, Jesuit, 225 —— of Baza, 343 menades, 199; La Fe
, casa, 300 —— of Gibraltar, 273 ria, 200; markets, La.
Sancho Ortiz de Roelas, -— of Gerona, 435 Cuna, gipsies, 201 ;
187 Seises, los, 183 Savalo, Buena Vista,
Sancho Panza, remarks Senectutis nidulus, 423 Macarena, 202 ; La
on, 239 Senora, N., de los Desam Sangre, Salitres, 203 ;
Sancti Petri, 140 parados, 371 Cafios dc Carmina,
Sangre, la, 203 i del O, 211 Fundicion, Bula de
azul, su, 224 Sentinels, challenges, 123 Crusada, 204 ; Bara
_ Santa Faz, la, 258 Seo de Urgel, 427 teros, 205; Fabrica de
Fe, the town, 326 Sephan, 47 Tahacos, cigars, snuff,
Santi Ponce, 212 Sepulchral monuments, Quemadero Inquisi
Santiago, Maestro de, 186 49 tion, 206 ; catacombs,
Santiago, canon or regla Serenos, 363 Allhalloween, walks,
of, 189 Serna, la, Vandalisms, 208 ; San Telmo, Torte
Santisima, la, 59 300,306 del Oro, Atarazanas,
Santo Calix, 370 Serpentine, rock, 328 Bacalao, 209 ; Bull- -
-——- Fraile, el, 426 Serrania de Ronda, 251 fights, quays, 210 ;
-——- Ribera, el, 373 Serranos, snails, 339 bridges, Triana, 211;
-—— Rostro, el, 258 Settled Boney, 81 La Cartuja, Italica,
Sarahuells, 365 Seville ,- inns, lackeys, 213; oranges and olives,
Sarria, 412 166 ; tradesmen, cli 214
Saumarez, Adn1l., 152 mate, books on, plans, Seville to Almaden, 216
Saucejo, 261 167 ; early history, -—— to Badajoz, 248
Savalo, 202 Roman, Moorish, 168 ; —— to Cadiz, by water,
Schak, on Sp. theatre, conquest, armorial I 53
108 bearings, motto, 169 ; —— to Cadiz, by land,
Schepeler, hook, 78 Junta of, Soult, plun 155
Schwartz, blunders, 419 der and defeat, majos, to Granada by Cor
Scipio’s tomb, 402 monuments, life in, dova, 256
at Carthagena, 349 walls, 171 ; Roman -—— to Granada by Jaen,
Scorpions of the rock, 274 antiquities, Moorish, 258
Scull gohlets, 261 streets and houses, 172; —— to Granada by Osa
Sculptors, chief Sp., 51 Azulejos, Giralda,173; na, 254
Sculpture, Sp., 49 bells, patronesses, ca -——- to Madrid, 221
-——- tours, 48 thedral library, 176; i to Niebla, 164
Sebastiani, victory, 247 exterior of cathedral, — to Rio Tinto, 216
* “ "--'-—-r-wI|-|I:I-u-'-Iw

456 INDEX TO PART I.

s1-:v1 1.1.1:. SPAIN. STEAMERS.

Seville to Ronda by Ecija, Soult, art plunder of, 170, Spain, inquisition, 206
260 177,1so,19o,254 -—- Jesuits, 424
-—- to Ronda by Ol cruelties, 170, 204, language, 64
vera, 260 212,213,254 —- Mariolatry, 53, 128, ~
-—- to Xerez, 161 — desecration, 1s2, 194,195,247,325,3s4,
-——- to Ronda by Za 197,201,203,246 371,39s,413,419,422
hara, 260 _ -— sale ofplunder, 191 l? military works, 78
Shaking Sp., Ladies’ —-— jealous of Sebasti -—- mines, 339, 341
hands, 122 *5 ani, 294 i money, 15, 16
Shepherd Guide, mira Soult's brother, 348 -i murder crosses, 263,
culous, 236 Southampton to Cadiz, 359 2 .
Sherry wines, 157 130 —-— music, 102
Shooting tour, 47 Southey, history, 80 -—-- national resistance,
Sierra, 30 Spain, mountains, divi 79
Sierra de Gador, 331 sion into zones, 28 —— weakness, 125
——_Morena, 221 -—- aid, 139, 144, 156 navy, 141, 350
--~ Nevada, 329 ‘ and Spaniards, pre- , —- nosotros, preten
ascent of, 327 face, and 12, 36, 297 sions of, 70, 78, 133,
—— del Puerco, 144 —-— architecture, 55 145, 15L 232, 236,
Siete Suelos, 314 i bad government, 8, 333,354,417
Silius Italicus, 212 28, 74, 209, 293 painting, 54
Silkworms, 328 -* baths, 40, 291 —-— palabras, 65, 139,
Sillas correo, mails, 22 Z beggars, 120, 185 127
Silos, 315 books, 85 paucity of great
Simon de Montfort, 207 i bull-fights, 88-100 men, 139
Simulacros y Imagenes, -——- cigars, 109, 206 picturesque barba
49 i clergy, 139 rians, 5, 46
Sin Pecadns, 194 _ i climate, 29, 32, 37, people, 8, 36, 79
Skelton, T. (D011 Q1111!‘ 149 —— Punica fides, 99,
ote), 241 _ ;- costumes, 110, 111, -234,236,358
Skerret, Col., at 'I‘ar1f=l, 117,120 —-— repudiation, 134
150,400 1 dances, 102, 104 —— religion, 120
Sketching precautions, 13 -—- defeats, 235, 245, —~ resignation, 7
Slidell, Mr., book, 389 247, 248, 250, 289, rivers, 28, 30
Slings, 267 344, s47, 367, ass, -i robbers, 26
Smith, C. Felix, 150 437 -—- self-love, 87, 125,
Smuggling, Sp., 393 . Spain, documents, 76 422
Smugglers of Ronda, 252 Espanolismo, 79, sculpture, 51
Snails, 339 11s,235,2s9,417 Spain, short-lived great
Snake broth, 143 forms of courtesy, ness of, 87
Socorros de Espafia, 57, 122 smuggling, 252, 393
139,144,150 geography, 27 i tendency to monk»
Sactabis, 357 geology, 42, 127, hood, 422
Solano, wind, 134 426 -—-"theatre, 101
Soldados de Pavia, 210 grandiloquence, 65, truth, Eng., a libel,
Soldier and gentleman, 127, 138, 239 73,125
E.,s2 , heraldry, 64 —-— wines, 37, 157, 2-12,
Sollo, el, 202 -— how to deal with 287,388
Solsona, 427 Sp., 278 Spagnoletto, 359, 375
Somatenes, 419 —— lllustrado, el, 46 Earnvma, 70, 269
Sombrero, gacho, 119 —— images and idols, Standish, Mr., 158
Soto de Roma, 257, 325 49,51 Steam communications,
Soult, Marshal, defeat, —-— inns, 24 18
Albuera, 250 —-— ingratitude, 133, Steamers, Sp. invention
victory, Ocafia, 245 1sa,21s,240,2so ot‘, 417
INDEX TO PART I. 457
BTERILITY. TOMA R. TRUTH.

Sterility, cure for, 381, Tanromaqnia, 88 Tomb of Scipio, 402


427 Tauromaquian terms, 92, Tooth of St. Christopher,
Stew of rice, miracle, 97 370
379 Taza de plata, 132 Top of Sierra Nevada,
Stirling, W., book, 72 Tea, la, 197 327
Straits of Gibraltar, 148 Teba, 264 Torcal, el, 265
Subjects for authors, 35 Teela, Santa, 403 Torcuato, San, 342
Suchet, Marshal, vandal Telmo, San, 209 '1‘oreno, Conde de, his
isms and cruelties, 375, Tembleque, 2-14 tory of, 79
ass, 400, 405, 422 Templars, the order, 355 Toril, el, 92
Sueca, 382 Tendido, el, 92 Toros de Cuerda, 90
Sugar-cane, 289 2» Tendency to turn monks, Z da Ronda, 262
Sun's course arrested, Sp., 422 Torre de Bren , 423
218 Tendilla, conde de, 313 de los scipiones,
Superstition, Valencia, Tenebrario, el, 180 402
364 Tenorio, Juan, 201 —— del Oro, 172, 209
Suria, 426 Tent wine, 1-'39 — del Pico, 313
Sweetmeats, 355 Tentudia, 218 —-— de la Vela, 303
Synagogue, 275 Tepentes Buxns, 187 Torredembarra, 407
Syros, 315 Terno, from St. Paul's, Torre Farfan, F. de, 167
370, 404 Torres Bermejas, 301
Terra cottas, 287 Torremolinos, 283
T. Terraza, la, 265 Torrigiano, P., 193
Tertiary rocks of Spain, Torre turpiann, 322
Taas, 329 44 Torrijos, Gen., 286
Tabaco de fraile, 206 Tertulia, la, 101 Torta Francesa, 204
Tabardillo, el, 200 Tertulianos, los, 101 Tortells, 410
Tablada, 210 Tetuan, 279 Tortosa, 396
Tablas, las, 93 Thegrim, 292 to Tan-agona, 399
Tabula post Naufraginm, Theodoric, 351 Totana, 345
423 Thiers, Mons., Historical Tours in Sp., various, 34,
Tadmor, 338 Romances, 76 41
Tagarete, el, 209 i on Bailen, 235 for summer, 45
Tajo, el, de Ronda, 261 —-— on Trafalgar, 147 for naturalists, 41
Taking ofl‘ hat, import --—- on Nelson, 77 ‘-Trafalgar, the victory,
ance of, 14 -— on Wellington, 77 145
Talca, 212 —— settled by Napier, ,-——, Buonaparte on,147
Tambourine, 104 81 2, Thiers on, 147
Tangiers, 279 Threshing-floors, 245 Trasparente, el, 59
Tanto Monta, 63 Tia Antonia, 300 Tres puentes, los, 427
Tapadas, las, 150 Tibi, 356 Tours, 410
Tapia, 162 Tierra Caliente, 80 Trrvelez, 331
Tarif for landing from —-— de la Santisima, Triana, 171, 211
steamers, 19 12s, 195 Tribagia, 187
Tarifa, siege, 149 Tilli, Count, 233 Tribunal of Irrigation,
Tarifeiias, las, 150 Tinajas de Totana, 345 361
Tarik, 272 Tinto, 139 -—- del repeso, 368
Tarkish, 49 Tirante 10 Blane, 375 Trigueros, 165
Tarragona, 400 Tirso de Molina, 201 Trillo, el, 245
Tarragona, siege of, 400 Titles, Sp., 124 Triunfo, el, 211
to Barcelona, 406 Toboso, el, 244 Trocadero, 140
to Tortosa, 399 Tocador de la Reina, 308 Trout-fishing, 48
-—— to Valencia, 386 Tofino, V., 131 Truth E., unpopular in
Tartana, 368 Toldo, 173 Sp., 73, 87
Tartessns, 126 Tomar el fresco, 136 —-—, English, 82
Spain.-—I. x
458 INDEX TO PART L

TUNNIES. VILLANUEVA. WELLINGTON.

Tnnnies, 145 Valencian cuisine, 362 Villena, 353


Tupper, Mr., 367 costume, 365 Villeneuve Adml. F., 147
Turba deornm, 380 -Z stockings, 365 Villo-dornat, Antonio,
Turia, River, 361 _ writers, 363 414,416
Turkey and Truflle, 425 Valentias, 362 Villoutreys, F., Genl.,
Turres Hannibalis, 162 Valle de. Aran, 428 plunder, 231
Turrones, 355 VaHs,405 Vinaréz, 388
Tutear, el, 124 Vamos alla, 205 Vino moro, 242
Tutelars, local, 364 Vanda, la, 63, 298 Vique. 431
-——- of Barcelona, 413 Vandolino, el, 225 Virgin worship, 364
——- of Tarragona, 403 Van Halen, J., 399 Virgen Aparecida, 211
Tsefysa, 229 Vaporoso style, 191 "——- dc la Antigua, 181
Vargas, L. de, 174, 181 —— de los Dcsaniparar
Vedel, Gen., at Bailen, dos, 364
U. ‘Z33 ——- of Monserrat, 419
Vega, 324 -Z Miracles, books on,
Ubeda, 336 Vegas, 291 421
Ullina, G. da, 309 Z of Granada, 296, 302 del Prado, 247
Ujijar, 331 Veguerias, 395 Virgins, the eleven thou
Ukert, F. A., 73 Vejer, the insurrection, sand, 337
Ultimo Sospiro del Moro, 147 Viril, 59
328 Velad Arrum, 225 Visiting, hints on Sp.
Ummeyah, dynasty, 225 Veladas, 61, 200 forms of, 122, 128
Undertakers, Sp., 281 Velez Malaga, 289 Viso, 221
University of Seville, 196 el Rubio, 344 Vivarambla. 317
Urbina, defeat of Sp. Velo, 173 Vocales, 138
Gen., 247 Vendome, duc de, 388 Volapie, el, 97
Urge]. 427 Vendrell, 407 Volcanic district, 348
to Barcelona, 418 Venere Callipige, 103 Voragine, J., legends, 75
——- to Bonaigua, 430 Venido en coche, 122 Vos, M. de, 193
i to Gerona, 430 Venta, 24 Votive tablets, 199
Z to Montluis, 428 Ventisqueros, 327 Vultures, Sp. under
—- to Tarascon, 429 Venus Salambo, 175 takers, 281
Urquhart, Mr. David, 271 Venysollo, 383
Usted, V., 124 Verneuil, Mons. de, 42
Utrera, 159 Veronica, Santa, 258 W.
Uva passa, 287 Vétus du climat, 202
Viaje de Espafia, 73 Wa la ghaliba illa Allah,
Viardot, Mons., 184 298
V. Vicente, San, his crow, Walking in Sp. Streets,
199 122
V. usted, 124 Vicente de Ferrer, San, Wall, Richard, 298
Vago Italiano, 73 364, 378 War, E. and F., of giants
Valdelvira, P. de, 336 Victoires et Conquétes, in Sp., 46
Valdemoro, 246 F., 76 Washington Irving, 163
Valdepeiias, wine, 242 Victor, Marshal, defeats Weights and Measures,
to Almaden, 246 and ravages, 133, 140, Sp., 71
Valencia, the kingdom of, 144, 150 Wellesley, Lord, 176
360 Vidrieras, 60 Wellington, Duke, cha
-—-- 366 Vieja, la, old site, 228 racter of, 81
-— books on, 365 Villafranca de Panades, —— opinion on S_p., 6, 15
——- to Mnrviedro, 383 407 —— on F. bulletins, 75
—~ to Tarragona, 386 Villamil, G. P., 57 1- on F. Parole, 77
——- to Xativa, 359 Villanueva del Rio, 216, ~ on the salvation of
—- de Leon, 218 221 Sp., 78
INDEX TO PART I. 459

WELLINGTON. XIJONA. ZUBBARAN .


Wellington, on Sp. docu- i
Wetherell, Mr., 208 Ximena, 278
ments, 79 What not to observe in Xiquena, 344
——- criticised by Napier, Sp., 34
81 Wilfred el Velloso, 418
» -— dispatches, 81 Williams, Don Julian,
Y.
-— his own editor, 82 166 Yecla, 353
Z love of truth, 81 Wimbleton, Lord, 133 Yellow, Judas Iscariot
——- hatred of pillage, 82 Windmills, Don Quix in, 51
——- on defending Cadiz, ote’s, 244 Yusnf I., 298
133 Wine-making, Sp., 388
——- on Cortes of Cadiz, Wines of Malaga, 287 Z.
138 -i of Montilla, 224
-— on politics of Jun -—- of Valdepefias, 242 Zaeatin, 316
tas, 139 ——- of Xerez. 157 Zafra, 248
on Barrosa, 144 Woodcocks, 47 Zaguan, el, 173
-Z on Sp. marchings, Working mines, 341 Zahara, 260
145 Zamarra, 113
-— on defence of Tarifa, Zancarron, 229
150 X. Zapateo, 104
-—- on Bailen, 235 Zarcillo, F., 347
-Z on Ferdinand VII. Xantippa, Santa, 223 Zarinefias, the, 376
436 Xativa, 357 Zegfii, the, 292
on Sp. oflicers, 235, to Alicante, 355 Zeigler, his book, 33
245, 356, ass —— to Elche, 353 Zeviya, 166
on Sp. guerrilleros, i to Valencia, 359 Zincali, 201
252 Xenil, 316 Zones of Sp., 28
1 on Ocaiia, 245 Xerez, 156 Zorayah, the frail, 292,
i on Albuera, 250 —— to Ronda, 263 31 5
i estate near Granada. i to Seville, I61 Zuazo, puente de, 141
326 de los Caballeros, Zubia, 329
—-— on Sir John Mur 218 Zufiiga, annals, 167
ray's failures, 353, 401 Xijona, 355 . Zurbaran, F., 192

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l3nnLIN.adIarsch's
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n.11~1<roa'r.—I‘aoc 1sG ass are ouse. 9 Cary-slrelesco _ _ _ ‘ _ _ _
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NUm:11n1:1:o.—Stein's Magazine . . . 33 Mudie's Library . . . . . . . . 21
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PRAGUE and VIENNA.-—-H0fl1l3.IlI1'B Glass Locock’s Pulmonic Wafers . . . . . 22
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FRANCE, SVVITZERLAND, & ITALY. Danube and Black Sea Railway C0. 26
Adnms's Passport Agency Oflice . 27
Bsoninizs.-Hotelde France . . . . 33 Rooks of Voyages and Travels . . 2s
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Burp-'2.-Grossmann's Wood Sculpture . 6 Blackwood's Maps . . . . . 29
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(££ace, &c., Depot . . . . . . . 36 'l‘himm, Foreign Bookseller . . . 3':
g Eva.-Liodet, Watchmaker. ". . . 30 Rowland's Perfumery . . . . . 37
. H0tel Byron . . . . . . . . 31 Heal's Bedsteads . . . . . . as
Izrrsntaxsx.--Phannacie Anglaise . 34 Southgate's Portmanteaus . . 39
Q QI IQIO
1. cno1m.—l\Iicali's Marble Works . . 11 South Coast Railway—Paris direct 41
L cause.-Engllscher Hot‘ . . . . . 36 Norwich Union Insurance . . O 42
1'ons.—Grand Hotel de Lyon . . . 27 South-Eastern Railway . . O O 43
cs.—How’s Hotel de l’Univers . . . 7 Hull Steamers . . . 0 I 0 44
ension Anglaise . . . . . . . 34 Galignanfs Paris Guide . . O O 44
.,,School for Young Gentlemen . . . 37 Whitburn's Foreign Pharmacy 0 44
RsR1s.—Hotel de Denx Mondes . . . 35 Handbook for Paris . . . . . 44
BA.—H1lg1l€t and Van Lint, Sculpto . 6 Dorrell and Son's Passport Agency 45
mc.—Fabri, Forwarding Agent . . . 8 Letts’ Passport Agency . . . . 46
House Agency . . . . . . . - 40 Glaciers of the Alps . . . . . 46
"l'tI(!L--KCFGZ, 0 0 0 0 0 33 Italian Valleys of the Alps , . 46
' - HOLLAND. Tennant, Geologist . . . . . 47
liS'1‘ERDAM.—D0€l9Il Hotel . . 1 . 36 Murray's English Handbooks . . 47
0'1'1‘ERDAM.-D\1L0h Rheulsh Railway . 32 Works on Iceland, &c. . . . 4s
-Kramers, Bookseller . '. . . . . 46 South-Western Railway. . . so
Art of Travel . . . . . so
" MALTA. Lee and Carter's Guide Depot . 52
VsLs'r1'.1.—Klngston, Chemist. . . . 35
May, 1861.
~, em.-.“

2 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.


“II May,

NEW BRITISH TARIFF, 1861.


Lom>o:<, lay 1, 1801.

MESSRS. J. & R. MCGRACKEN,


1, 01.0 JEWRY, LONDON, '
AGENTS, BY APPOINTMENT, TO THE ROYAL ACADEMY, NATIONAL GALLERY
AND GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENT OF SCIENCE AND ART,

EAST INDIA AGENTS,


‘ND

AGENTS GENERALLY FOR THE necnrrron AND snrrmrmr or wonns or


ART, BAGGAGE, &c.,

PROM AND T0 All PARTS 0!‘ THE WORLD,


Avail themselves of this opportunity to return their sincere acknowledgments to
the Nobility and Gentry For the Patronage hitherto conferred on them, and hope,
by the MODERATION OF THEIR CHARGES, and unremitting care in passing
through the Custom-house Property confided to them, to merit a continuance of
the favours heretofore enjoyed.
Their Establishment comprises
DRY AND SPACIOUS WAREHOUSES,
Where Works of Art and all descriptions of Property can be kept during the
Owners’ absence, at most moderate rates of rent.
Parties favouring J . and R. McC. with their Consignments are requested to be
particular in having the Bills of Lading sent to them DIRECT by Post, and also to
forward their Keys with the Packages, as, although the contents may he free of
Duty, all Packages are still EXAMINED by the Customs immediately on arrival.
Packages sent by Steamers or otherwise to Southampton and Liverpool also attended
to; but all Letters of Advice and Bills of Lading to be addressed to 7, OLD
Jnwnv, Lonnon.

MESSRS. J. AND R. MCGRACKEN,


Having been solicited by many friends to extend their Agency to the East, have
resolved to add to their other business that of

EAST INDIA AGENCY IN ALL ITS BRANCHES,


And they solicit the support and patronage of their? Friends and Clients to this
new Branch. They undertake all Banking and Financial Transactions; to execute
Commissions for every description of Goods, Supplies, Personal Requisites, and
Wines, which latter they are enabled to supply on the most favourable terms, as
they-are the Agents in England of several of the most eminent houses on the
' Continent for the sale of their Wines. .n
1861. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

MESSRS. J. AND R. MCCRACKEN


ARE THE APPOINTED AGENTS IN ENGLAND OF MR. J. M. FARINA,
Gmnniinnn DEM Jumcns Purz, COLOGNE,
FOB HIS

CELEBRATED EAU oe COLOGNE,


Am) Msssns. A. DELGADO & SON, or Csmz,
FOR THEIR

SHERRY AND AMONTILLADO WINES,


AND ABE ALSO

GENERAL IMPORTERS OF FRENCH AND ALL OTHER WINES,


For Prices of which, see separate List.
4\/\/\/\

LIST OF DUTIES.
All kinds of Merchandise, Works of Art, Antiquities, Curiosities, &c., are now
admitted into England FREE OF DUTY, except the following (and a few others
not of sufficient interest to enumerate here), which are still liable to Duty, viz. :-—
£ s. rl.
Anqunausann Wxrnn . . . . . the gallon 0 14 0
Booxs printed in and since 1801 . - . . the cwt. 0 16 0
imported under International Treaties of Copyright . ditto 0 15 0
Pirated Editions qf English Works are totally prohibited.
English, reimported (unless declared that no Drawback
u-I Uh-I
was claimed on Export) . . . . . the lb. 0 0
CIGARS and Tonacco, manufactured (3 lbs. only allowed in a
pa.ssenger’s baggage, with 5 per cent. additional) . . the lb. 0 9 QO SOIQOQ O
Tonacco, unmanufactured , . . . . ditto 0 8
Corrnn . . . . . . . ditto - .0 0
Coxsncrlormav (Sweetmeats and Succadee) . . . ditto 0 0
Connmns and Lmunvns . . . . . the gallon 0 12
EAU nn Conooma, in long flasks . . . , each 0 0
in other bottles . . . . the gallon 0 14
Maccanoru and VERMICELLI . . . . . the cwt. 0 0 ii?"
'
Pnnrum-:n Smnrrs . . . . . . the gallon 0 14 ‘€>O\b-IO <$QUl¢.9U5O Q
PAPER-HANGINGS . . . I . . . 'the cwt. 0 14
PLATE, of Gold . . . . . the oz. troy 0 17
of Silver . . . . . . ditto 0 1
Pnmrs and Dnawmos . . . . . the lb. 0 0,
Tea . . . . ~ . . . ditto 0 1
Wxxns in Cask,
,, under
above 18°
18° of strength
and .
under 25° of strength . .. theH gallon
ditto 00 11
———— ,, ,, 25° ,, 40° ' ,, . . ditto 0 2
r-I
"T" as n 40° as 45° n ' ° ° ditto 0 2
in Bottle (6 bottles to the gallon) . . . ditto 0 2
Semrrs in Cask and in Bottle . . . . ditto 0 8
Spirits in Oasks must ‘contain not"le_ss than 21 gallons.‘
W N)
~_

4 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.‘ May,

MESSRS. J. AND R. MCCRACKEN’S


, PRINCIPAL connsswouosurs ARE AT
ALEXANDRIA. . . . . Messrs. Bmccs & Co. Mr. E. St. J. Funusu. =
ALICANTE . . . . . . . . Messrs. JASPER Wnrrs 8: Co.
ANCONA . . . . . . . . . Messrs. Moons, Mnasnnsr, 8: Co.
ANTWERP . _ _ _ _ _ “ {Messrs F. MACK 8: Co., Kipdorp, No. 1748.
Mr. P. VAN Zsssnoscx, Picture Dealer, 8:c., Rue des Récollets, 2076.
ATHENS, PIRZEUS Mr. J. J. BUCHER1-ZR.
BADEN BADEN . . . Messrs. Srurssa Zc BINDER. Mr. F. PEL1KAN'S Successor.
BAD EMS. . . . . . . . . . Mr. H. W. '1‘n1sL. Messrs. B1-zcxsn 8: Juse.
BAGNERES DE BI- ,
GORRE (Hautes} Mr. Leos Gsnuzirr, Marble Works.
Pyré.-nées).........
BASLE Messrs. Jsax PREXSWERK 8: FILS. Mr. JEAN Tnomuss, Fils.
Messrs. Scrmswnm 8: Co.
Messrs. Scrncxucn Brothers.
BERLIN . . . . . . . . Mr. Lros M. C01-IN, Comm”. Expéditeur.
i Messrs. C. Hanson 8: Co., Glass Manufacturers, 67,Unter den Linden.
BERNE . . . . . . . . . . . . Mr. ALBERT TBUMPY.
BEYROUT . . . . . . . . . Mr. HENRY HEALD.
BOLOGNA . . . . . . . Sig. G. B. Rssou. Sig. L. Mam. -
BOMBAY . . . . . . . . . . Messrs. Lscms 8: Co.
Messrs. J . H. Sanarrsa 8: Co.
BORDEAUX . . . . . . . { Messrs. J. Sassor 8: FILs, Hotel des Princes et de la Paix.
Mr. Lfion Glinuzsr, 44, Allées de Tourny. -
BOULOGNE S. M.. . Messrs. CHABTIER, Mom’, 8: Voeos. Mr. A. SIRE.
CALAIS. . . . ...... . . Messrs. CHARTIER, Mons, 8: Vocns.
CALGUTTA . . . . . . . . Messrs. GRANT, Smrn, 8: Co.
Mr. Tnouas Wow, Glass Manufacturer.
CARLSBAD ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' Mr. Cam. Ksonn, an Lion Blane.
CARRARA . . . . . . . . . Sig. F. Brssarmiz, Sculptor. Sig. Vmcsszo LrvY, Sculptor.
CIVITA VECCHIA . Messrs. Lows Baornsns, British Vice-Consulate.
COBLENTZ . . . . . . . . Messrs. Sacus 8: Hocnm-zunm, Wine Merchants. Mr. P. J. CASSINONE.
COLOGNE‘ ' ' ' ' ' ‘ ' ' ' Mr. J. M.Gme.
Messrs. FARINA, e eniiber
'1‘n.m§:sg& dem P.
Co. Mr. Julichs Platz.
J. Cassmoss.
CONSTANCE . . . . . . .
Messrs. Zonuxorssn 8: Hoz.
CONSTANTINOPLE Messrs. C. S. Hanson & Co.
CORFU Mr.J.W.TAYL0a.
Messrs. H. W. BASSENGE 8: Co. Mr. E. Anson», Printseller. Mr.
DBESDEN Tn. Urmass, Royal Porcelain Manufactory Depot. Mr.J. Km-zrss,
' “'"'''' Glass Manufacturer. Madame HELENA Wonrsorm, Schiissergasse,
. No. 6. Mr. A. L. Mssmc.
Messrs. Emile. FENZI 8: Co. Messrs. ltnsncn 8: Co. Messrs. MA
QUAY 8: PAKENHAM. Mr. E. Goonsan. Mr. J. TOUGH. Messrs.
Nssrr, Cranm, 8: Co. Mr. Am”. nr Lmcr Pmcssrr. Mr. S.
FLORENCE Lows. Mr. Gm-:'r<>. Bmncamr, Mosaic Worker. Messrs. P. Baz
‘ zm-r1 8: F1c., Sculptors, Lungo 1’Arno. Heirs of F. L. Pxsam,
Sculptor, No. 1, sul Prato. Mr. P. MANNAJONI, Sculptor in Ala
baster, Lung‘Arno, North Side, No. 2036.4.‘ Sig. C.uu.o Noccrou.
Sig. LUIGI Rumour.
Mr. P. A. TA(;CHI’8 Successor, Glass Manufacturer, Zeil.
FRANKFOBT O. M. {Messrs Bmo, Jun., 8: Co. Mr. F. Bonn-zn, Zeil D, 17.
Mr. G. A. ZIPF.
FRANZENSBAD. . . . Mr. C. J. Hormmm.
GENEVA . . . . . . . . . . Mr. Ascot. Susan Mr. F. PsLmAs‘s Successor, Grand Qnai,No. 171.
Messrs. Gums 8: Co.
GENOA ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ‘ ‘ ' ' ' Messrs. G. VIGNOLO 8: Flci. Mr. A. Moses, Croce d1 Malte.
GHENT . . . . . . . . . . . . Mr. J. DE Burssn, Dealer in Antiquities, Marché an Beurre. No. 21.
GIBRALTAR . . . . . . Messrs. Ancunom, Joxmsros, 8: Pownns. Messrs. TURNER & Co.
HAMBURG . . . . . . . . Messrs. Sonasn 8: Cumss. Mr.G. F. Rona.
HAVRE. . . . . . . . . . . . Messrs. P. Dsvor 8: Co. Mr. A. Cnsunoxrr.
1861. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. .3

I°0B.ACKER’S LIST OF COBB.E8PONDENTS—wn¢i1wed.


HEIDELBERG Mr. Pu. ZIMMERMANX. Scntue 8: Msrrsa, Successors to Mr. M.
Lnzal-za.
HONFLEUR . . . . . . . Mr. J. \VAom:R.
INTERLACKEN . . . . Mr. J. Gnosssunm. Mr. Gr.sum~'r Srsrr.
LAUSANNE . . . . . . . Mr. Loxocruxrs. Mr. Donors Rxxoc, Fils.
Messrs. W. Mscmux 8: Co. Messrs. Hmmrzason Baornsns.
Messrs. THOMAS P4-rs 8: Soxs. Messrs. Maqosr, Paxssaax,
LEGHORN . . . . . . . . . 8: Surrn. Messrs. Grace. MICALI 8: F100. Sculptors in Alabaster
and Marble. Mr. M. Rlsroiu. Mr. CARLO Cssoocr, Uflizio della
Strada Ferrata. Messrs. Gi<>.G4r.1.um 8:00. Mr. Uusss Cornsusn.
LISBOQ p Mr. Auras: VAN ZELLBR, in the Peninsular and Oriental Steam
‘ ''''''''''‘' Navi ation Company's Oflices.
LUCERNE . . . .. . . . . Mr. J. sssanaacn-Usrssrrxoxa. Messrs. F. Ksomz 8: Fils.
MADRAS . . . . . . . . . . . Messrs. Bmxr & Co.
MADRID . . . . . . . . . . . Messrs. Hssar USHEA 8: Co., 57, Calle de Fuencarral.
MALAGA. . . . . . . . . . Mr. Gsosos Honcsox.
Mr. Esuxmsx. Z.unu'r. Messrs. Josh. Dsausnrx & Sons, 45, Strsda
MALTA Levante, Mosaic Workers. Mr. Foarrmaro Tnsrs, 92, Stmda SIR
°''' '°'' ‘ " Lucia. Mr. Caamsno Dmscu. Mr. L. FKANCALANZA, 123, Strada
St. Giovanni.
MANNHEIM . . . . . . Mr. Dmxsnsrrm. Messrs. Erssms 8: Cx..u:s.
MARIEN BAD . . . . . . Mr. J. T. ADLER, Glass Manufacturer.
MARSEILLES _ . _ _ _ _ {fi(§S8I1;;.IEII(.}ARI;I'>r8 ;3ri{x‘i1:: $1groén Messrs. Homes Boucmzr 8. Co.

MAYENCE . . . . . . . . Mr. G. L. Karsrm. Expéditeur. Mr. W. KNUSGMANN, Cabinet Maker.


MESSINA . . . . . . . . . . Messrs. Csrnnsa 8: Co.
MILAN . . . . . . . . . . . . Messrs. Bursar 8: BERUTO, Piazzale di S. Sepolcro, No. 3176.
Mr. Hr. Wnmsn. Printseller, Promenade St. No. 12. Heirs of San.
MUNICH. . . . . . . . . . . Prcnrsa. Messrs. Mar 8: “/IDMAYER, Printsellers. Messrs. L.
Nsomou 8: Co.
NAPLES . . . . . . . . Messrs. Icovnnsx 8: C0. Messrs. W. J. Tunmm 8: Co.
NEW YORK .. .. .. . Messrs. Wruaua 8: Parcs. Mr. THOMAS Soorr.
‘ICE Messrs. A. Lacaorx 8: Co., British Consulate. Messrs. E. Cannon:
‘ 8:00. Mr.T.W.How. Mf.CH.GIORDAN.
Mr. Psow GALIIIBERTI, at the Red Horse, Dealer in Antiquities.
NUREMBERG. . . . . .{ Mr. JOHN Cosmo Cxorr, Banker and Forwarding Agent.
Mr. A. Plum-zar.
Messrs.B.icn8:Co.
PALERMO . . . . . . . . . Messrs. THOMAS Bnornsns.
PARIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mr. L. Gamma, Packer, Rue Croix Petits Champs, No. 24.'
Mr.Bs1:osn0r.
PISA. . . . . . . . . . . . . Messrs. Hoover 8: VAN Ln~"r, Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble.
PRAGUE Mr. W. HOFMANN, Glass Manufacturer, Blauern Stern.
' ° ° ' ' ' ' ° ' ' ° Mr. P. Czsmux, ditto. Mr. A. V. Lxssna, Gun Maker.
Messrs. Toanoma 8: Co. Messrs. Fax-muons 8: C0. Messrs. Mac
ROME nus 8: Co. Messrs. Pnownsx, CHOLMELEY, 8: Co. Messrs.
' '°'''''°'‘‘' PAKENHAM, HOOKER, 8: Co. Mr. E. 'I‘nr.nar. Mr. LUIGI Bass
cunu, at the English College. Mr. J. P. Smss.
Messrs. Passron 8: Co. Messrs. C. Hsmramr 8: Co.
ROTTERDAM. . . . . . Measm BOUT“, & Cm
SCHAFFHAUSEN .. :ln\dfIessIrs. Zor.LIx%'rsn 8: Hoz. h Vi C0 1'
r. onus B. ILLIAMS, Britis ce- nsu ate.
SEVILLE ' " “ "" ° Don JUAN ANT. BAILLY.
SMYRNA . . . . : . '. . Messrs. Hncson 8: Co.
S'l‘. PETERSBURG . Messrs. THOMSON Boxua, 8: Co.
SYRA . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mr. Wmmwson, British Consul.
THOUNE . . . _ _ o . _ . . Mr. A. H. J. WALD, Bazaar. Mr. Ens, Fils.
Messrs. Buznsaosa 8: LANZREIN. Mr. ALBERT Tarmrr.
'I'RIESTE Messrs. Moons 8:00.
TURIN . . . .. . . . . .. . Messrs. J. A. Lmmuss 8: FERR1-IRA, Rue de l'Arsenal, No. 4.
Messrs. Fasass SCHIELIN. Mr. Asroxro ZEN.
VENICE . . . . . . . . . . . {Messrs S. 8: A. B1.umm~z'rn.u. 8: Co.
Mr. L. BOVARDI, Carnpo S. Fantino, No. 2000, rosso.
VEVAY Mr. Jvnss Gauz
VIEYNA Mr. W. HOFMANN, Glass Manufacturer, am Lugeck, No. 768.
‘ ' ' ' ' ' ° ' ' ' ' Messrs. J. 8: L. Loam-zrsa, Glass Manufacturers, 940, Karntliner
VOLTERRA . . . . ,. . Sig. Orro. CALLAJ, and Messrs. G. Cm-zmcr 8: Fxci. [Strasse.
WALDSHUTT. . . . . . Messrs. Zonuxorrsn 8: Hoz.
ZURICH . . . . . . . . . . . Messrs. Weiss zum BRACKI-ZN.
6 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,

FLORENCE.
G.BIlANGHIN1,' __;__

MANUFACTURER OF TABLES AND LADIES’ ORNAMENTS


OF FLORENTINE MOSAIC,
N0. 4S4=4, VIL DE’ NELLI,
Opposite the Royal Chapel Q/' tbs Medici,
INVITES the English Nobility and Gentry to visit his Establishment, where
may always be seen numerous specimens of this celebrated and beautiful
Manufacture, in every description of Rare and Precious Stones. Orders for Tables
and other Ornaments executed to any Design.
G. Brnucnnws Agents in England are Messrs. J. 8; R, M‘CnAcKnN, 7, Old
Jewry, London.

BR|ENZ— INTERLACKEN.

J. GROSSMANN,
SCULPTOR IN WOOD, AND MANUFACTURER OF SWISS
WOOD MODELS AND ORNAMENTS,

AT INTERIACKENI

HIS WAREHOUSE is situated between the Belvedere Hotel and Schweizerhof,


where he keeps the largest and best assortment of the above objects to be
found in Switzerland. He undertakes to forward Goods to England and elsewhere.
Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. 8: R. McCRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry.

PISA.
..i;__-_

HUGUET AND VAN LINT,‘


SOULPTORS IN MARBLE AND ALABASTER,
Lung-' Arno, under the Hotel Pave:-ada.

THE oldest established house in Pisa, where may be found the best assortment
of Models of the Duomo, Baptistry, and Tower. Also Figures and other
local objects illustrative of the Agriculture and Customs of the country, executed
in the highest style of art. .
Their extensive Show Rooms are always open to Visitors.
L Cgrrespondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. MoCRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry,
on on. V
1861. MURRAY’S HANDBOQK ADVERTISER. 7

N | Q E_ CARY’S IMPROVED POCKET


._.-_ TOUBIST’S TELESCQPIL
H O T EL D E I-"U N IV ER S. (See ‘ zllw-ray’s Handbook/)

T- W- H O W, ii§.if‘§i°.‘$‘§§i.‘§ ‘I.‘.§¢“?>‘,§f.’.‘1.‘i‘i“.;’.{’.’.§‘;‘i“é’,"i.‘§;
the use of Naval and Military Oflicesr, &c.
mom Lomfiox, PROPRIETOR. Also the Binocular Reconnoiti-ing Field
Glass, so highly spoken of by oflicers and
This Hotel, most eligibly situated in one of other gentlemen; price, with best sling-case,
the most central positions in the town, on bl. 58. Gary's improved Achromallc Micro
the south side of the Place St. Dominique, scope, with two sets of choice lenses, capable
and close to the Corso, Cercle, Public Libra of defining the severe test objects, 16l. 16s.
ries, Theatre, Sea-Baths, &c.. has been en and 181. 18:. Travelling Spectacles of all
tirely renovated, and furnished with the kinds.
comforts necessary to English travellers.
Apartments or single rooms ou most Mathematical and Oglml Instrument
moderate terms. Maker to the Admiralty, ynl Military Col
Table d'h6te. Tn: Truss and Game run! lege, Sandhurst, Christ's Hospital, and East
taken in. India College, Agra, &c.
Correspondents in London, Messrs. J. and 181, STRAND, LONDON.
R. M‘Cnac1<nr1, 7, Old Jewry. Established upwards of a Century.

MUNICH.

HENRY WIMMER,
SUCCESSOR. TO

J. M. DE HERMANN,
PRINT AND PICTURE SELLER T0 HIS MAJESTY THE KING
or BAVARIA,
ROYAL PROMENADE STRASSE, No. 12,

MAGAZINE OF OBJECTS OF FINE ARTS,

PICTURES, PRINTS, DRAVVINGS, AND LITHOGRAIPHS,

Invrrrzs the Nobility and Gentry to visit his Establishmenflwhere he


has always on Sale an extensive collection of Pictures by Modern
Artists, Paintings on Glass and Porcelain, Miniatures, Drawings, En
gravings, and Lithographs, the latter comprising the Complete Collec
tions of the various Galleries, of which Single Copies may be selected.

He has also on Sale all that relates to the Fine Arts.

H. WIMMER undertakes to forward to England all purchases made


at his Establishment, through his Correspondents, Messrs. J. & R.
M‘CRAoKEN, 7. Old Jewry, London.
8 MURRAY’ S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,

L. FABBI,
CAPO LE CASE, No. s, ROME,
gfurinarhing Ztgrnt
GREAT BRITAIN, FRANCE, RUSSIA, GERMANY, AND AMERICA.

_i.°.___

L. FABRI, Commissionnaire and Forwarding Agent, undertakes the


forwarding of Works of Art, Pictures, Statuary, and Baggage, the -
expense of which can be paid through rates on arrival of the packages
at their destination.
M. FABRI, in order to save trouble to travellers or others who wish to
forward articles, attends to their removal, packing, shipping, and marine
insurance at moderate fixed rates, and fulfils all the formalities required
by the Roman Customs on exportations.
M. FABRI employs skilled workmen for packing Statuary, Marble, and
fragile articles, and has correspondents in all the principal Cities of
the World, to whom packages are consigned, and who pass them through
the Customs with the greatest possible care, and deliver them to the
Consignees.

Messrs. LI(5‘rI-ITLY & SIMON,


123, FENCHURCH STREET, LONDON,
are M. Fsnnfs Correspondents in Great Britain.
M. FABRI also undertakes the purchase of Pictures, &c., and pay
ments to Artists or others, as well as any other commission business.
M. L. FABRI has commodious warehouses specially adapted for the
reception of Pictures and other works of Art.

RATES BY SAILING VESSEL5.


Per cubic foot.
From Ripe. Grands (Rome) to New York - - - - - - - 40 cents.
,, ,, ,, Boston - - - - - - - - - 50 ,,
,, ,, ,, Philadelphia - - - - - - - 50 ,,
n 7! ,, Lo1EBo]p,pI‘l))1u;ls1l1-11, -and other } 15‘ Nd.
» .- ,, By STEAMER- _ . . I 2;. ea
1861. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 9

FRANKFORT O. M.

P. A. TACOHI’S SUCCESSOR,
(LATE FRANCIS STEIGERWALD,)

ZEIL n, No. 1:,

EOIEIIEMIIAN FANCY GLASS AND (l3lR?.'YS’11"A\.II.


"WAREHOUSE.

P. A. TACCHPS SUCCESSOR begs to acquaint the Public that


he has become the Purchaser of Mr. F. S'rn1ennwAI.n’s ESTABLISH
MENT in this Town, for the Sale of Bohemian Fancy Cut Glass and
Crystals.

He has always an extensive and choice Assortment of the Newest


and most Elegant Patterns of

ORNAMENTAL CUT, ENGRAVED, GILT, 8c PAINTED GLASS,


BOTH WHITE AND COLOURED,

In Dessert Services, Chandeliers, Articles for the Table and Toilet,


and every possible variety of objects in this beautiful branch of manu
facture. He solicits, and will endeavour to merit, a continuance of
the favours of the Public, which the late well-known House enjoyed
in an eminent degree during a considerable number of years.

P. A. 'l‘Acon1’s Snconsson has Barman ESTABLISHMENTS during the


Season at
WIESBADEN AND EMS,

Where will always be found Selections of the newest Articles from his
principal Establishment.

His Agents in England, to whom he undertakes to forward Pur


chases made of him, are Messrs. J. 8: R. M‘CBACKEN, 7, Old Jewry,
London.
10 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,

COLOGNE O. RHINE.

JOHN MARIA FARINA,


enenniinss DEM Jiiucns PLATZ
(Opposite the Julich's Place),

PURVEYOR TO H. M. QUEEN VICTORIA;


TO H. M. F. W. IIL. KING OF PRUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA;
THE KING OF HANOVER, ETC. ETC.,

OF THE

ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE.

'[HE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, but for the most
part the result of deception practised by interested individuals, induces me to request
the attention of English travellers to the following statement :
Since the first establishment of my house in 1709, there has never been any partner in
the business who did not bear the name of FARINA, nor has the manufacture of a second
and cheaper quality of EAU DE Conoenn ever been attempted. Since 1828, however,
several inhabitants of Cologne have entered into engagements with Italians of the name of
Farina, and, by employing that name, have succeeded to 0. very great extent in foisting an
inferior and spurious article upon the Public.
But they have in this rivalry in trade not been satisfied with the mere usurpation of my
name; the concluding phrase, “opposite the Julich‘s Place,” which had so long existed my
special property, was not allowed to remain in its integrity. To deceive and lead astray
again those of the public who are not fully conversant with the locality and circumstances,
the competition seized hold of the word " opposite,” and more than once settled in my
immediate neighbourhood, that they might avail themselves to the full extent of the phrase
“ opposite the Julich’s Place.” When tried before the courts, the use only of the word
“ opposite " was forbidden, which, however, has been supplied by the word “ at” or " near,”
with the addition of the number of their houses. It is true, another less flagrant, but not
less deceitful invention was, that several of my imitators established the sites of their
manufactories in other public places of the town, to enable them to make use of the phrase
“ opposite ——- Place, or Market,” on their address cards or labels, speculating, with respect
to the proper name “Julich,” on the carelessness or forgetfulness of the consumer. I there
fore beg to inform all strangers visiting Cologne that my establishment, which has existed
since 1709, is exactly opposite the Julich’s Place, forming the corner of the two streets,
Unter Goldschmidt and Oben Marspforten, No. 23;. and that it may be the more easily
recognised, I have put up the arms of England, Russia, &c. &c., in the front of my house.
By calling the attention of the public to this notice, I hope to check that system of imposi
tion which has been so long practised towards foreigners by coachmen, valets-de-place, and
others, who receive bribes from the vendors of the many spurious, compounds sold under my
name.
A new proof of the excellence of MY manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the
fact of the Jury of the Great Exhibition in London having awarded us the Prize Medal.
See the Otiicial Statement in No. 20,934, page 6, of the ' Times’ of this month.
Conoens, October. 1851. J, M_ FARINA,
Gegeniiber dem Jiilichs Platz.
*** My Agents in London are MESSRS. J. & R. M‘CRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry,
by whom orders are received for me. '

3‘
1861. MURRAY‘S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 11

SWISS COURIERS’
AND

TRAVELLING SERVANTS’ SOCIETY


BEG to inform the Nobility and Gentry, should they require the
services of a Courier or Travelling Servant, only those whose
characters have borne the strictest investigation, both as regards
sobriety, honesty, and general good conduct, have been admitted into
the Society, and who are capable of fulfilling their duties efliciently.
The Society therefore ventures to solicit your patronage, and hopes to
deserve your future favours.
All information may be obtained of the Secretary,

HENRY MASSEY, Stationer,


103, PARK STREET, GROSVENOR SQUARE.
Established. 1856.

WILLIAM HOFMANN,
BOHEMIAN GLASS MANUFACTURER,
TO HIS MAJESTY THE EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA,

RECOMMENDS his great assortment of Glass Ware, from his own Manufactories in
Bohemia. The choicest Articles in every Colour, Shape, and Description, are sold,
at the some moderate prices, at both his Establishments

At Prague, Hotel Blue Star; at Vienna, 768, ilhugeck.

Agents in London, Messrs. J, and R. M‘CRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry.


Goods forwarded direct to England, America, if-c.

LEGHORN. CARLSBAD.

HIACINTH MICALI AND SON, THOMAS WOLF,


Via Ferdimmda, N0. 1230. MANUFACTURER OF
Manufactory of Marble. Alabaster, and QRNAMENTAI, GLASS W,\[{]§S_
€~?1%liX1rB:_s_Tables’ and Depm of objects or Tnovus WOLF begs to inform the Visitors

open to vm"°"'
nrsm AGENTS IN moms» ARE
»~ the Crystal and Glass Wares of Bohemia
especially Table gnd Dgggeft sen-j_ce5_
MESSRS J AND R M.cRAcxEN all at reasonable and fixed prices.
. . . , CORREEPONDENTS IN ENGLAND:
7, Old Jewry, London. Messrs. J. 8: R. M‘CRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry.
12 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,

FRANKFORT O. M.

H" STEMPEL,
SILBERNE
bewilligt
V0!!!

FRIEDRIUEBUHLER,
MANUFAG'l‘0BY 0F S'l‘AGll0llN,
Zeil No. 54 (next door to the Post-Oiflee).

FURNITURE or EVERY DESCRIPTION, as Sofas, Chairs, Tables, &c. &c. CHAN


DELIERS, Table and Hand Candlesticks, Shooting-tackle, Inxsrsnns, Paper
knives, Penholders, Seals, &c. Kmvss, Rmmc-wnrrs, Cigar-cases and
Holders, Pipes, Match-boxes, Porte-inonnaies, Card-cases, Thermometers,
GOBLETS, Candle-screens, Figures and Groups of Animals executed after
Riedinger and others. Bnoocnns, Bracelets, Earrings, Shirt-pins, Studs, and
Buttons. STAG sun Dana Hnsns with Antlers attached to the Skull. Sofa
rugs or Foot-cloths of Skins of Wild Animals with Head preserved.
Orders for a Complete Set or for any quantity of Fnimrroas: will be
promptly executed.
The Agents in London are Messrs. J. and R. MCCBAOKEN, 7, Oltl Jewry.
I861. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. l3

FRANKFORT O. M.

FRIEDRIi)_Ii”BOHLEB,
Z eil,
dicht neben
Stempel, bewilligt vom Senat

Pmmunns (Omamental Clocks) of every description, Vsszs, Goblets, ANTIQUE


and Momarm STATUETTES and Gnours, Groups of Animals, Iuxsmuns,
Paper-weights, &c. &c., in Bronze, Cast Iron, Galvano-plastic, &c.
CROW‘N—CHA.NDELIERB; Branch, Table, and Hand Candlesticxs, in Bronze,
&c. ; Lamps of every description.
Ponommun and Britannia-metal Goods, Liqueur-chests.
TRAVELLING DRESSING-CASES, Railroad Companions, Picnic-baskets, Tra
velling Bags, Brushes, Combs.
Wonx-'rABLr~:s and Boxes, Tapestries, F2318, Ball—b0oks, Smelling-bottles,
Opera-Glasses, &c. &c.
Superior Copies of the Anmnma by Dannecker, and the AMAZON by Kiss.
Genuine Eau de" Cologne of Jean Maria. Farina, opposite the Jiilichsplatz.
The Agents in London are Messrs. J. and R. M°CRAOxEN, 7, Old Jewry.
14 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,

VIENNA.
Bohemian White and Coloured Crystal Glass Warehouse.

J. & L. LOBMEYR,
GLASS MANUFACTURERS,
No. 940, Kl-QRNTHNERSTRASSE,
BEG to inform Visitors to Vienna that they have considerably enlarged their Esta
blishment. The most complete assortment of all kinds of Bohemian White and
Coloured Crystal Glass, and of all articles in this branch of industry, in the
newest and most elegant style, is always on hand. The rich collections of all
Articles of Luxury, viz. Table, Dessert, and other Services, Vases, Candelabras,
Lustres, Looking-glasses, &c. &c., will, they feel assured, satisfy every visitor.
The prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable cl1arges.—The English
language is spoken.
Their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M‘CRACKEN, No. 7, Old
Jewry, London, will execute all orders with the greatest care and attention.

FLORENCE.
PETER MANNAIONI,
SCULPTOR IN MARBLE AND ALABASTER, AND
WORKER IN FLORENTINE MOSAIC,
LUNG‘ ARNO, NORTH SIDE, No. 2036a.
A vast collection of objects of Art of every kind is to be seen in this establishment, such as
Marble and Alabaster Statues and Vases, Ancient and Modern Pictures, Miniatures, Engrav
ings, and Drawings, Objects of Antiqnit , Bronzes, 8:0. Artists’ Books and Florentine Mo
saic. Commissions taken for Marble usts and Portrait Painting, and generally for all
kinds of Architectural Works, as Monuments, Chimney Pieces, Furniture, &c.
Correspondents in London, Messrs. J. and R. IVPCRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry.

FRANKFORT O. M.

MESSRS. LOHR & ALTEN,


PRO PRIETOR-S OF

THE ROMAN EMPEROR HOTEL,


Beg to recommend their House to English Travellers.

This large and well-situated Establishment is conducted under the“immediate


superintendence of the Proprietors, and newly furnished with every comfort, and
a new splendid Dining-room.
The “ ROMAN EMPEROR" is often honoured by Royal Families and other high
personages. The following have lately honoured this Hotel—
H.M. THE KING AND QUEEN OF WURTEMBERG.
H.M. THE QUEEN OF HOLLAND.
H.R.l-L THE CROWN PRINCE AND PRINCESS OLGA OF WURTEMBERG.
H.I.H. Tl-IE ARCHDUKE OF AUSTRIA. Arc. 8:0. &c.
Tlble-d'h°i¢ Bil, 111. 30kt. Breakfast, azm-.
,, ,, 5. 2fl- Tea, Qzkr,
Bedltooms, from lfl. to 311
1861. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 15

BERLIN.
igi.

C. HARSCH & CO.,


67, Unter den Linden,

FANCY CLASS WAREHOUSE,


Bee to call the attention of Vrsrrons to their EXTENSIVE Assonrnnnr of

BOHEMIAN, BAVARIAN, AND SILESIAN GLASS,


CONSISTING OF

I ARTICLES OF EVERY DESCRIPTION,

OF THE NEWEST AND MOST ELEGANT PATTERNS.

Their Correspondents in London are Messrs. J. & R. M‘CRAcKEN, 7, Old Jewry.

J. IRWINE WHITTY, D.C.L., LL.D., M.A., F.R.G.S.,


GEOGRAPHER,

Qinglislg sub gfnrrign wag Sella",


AGENT TO THE GOVERNMENT
FOR THE SALE OF THE

ORDNANCE MAPS AND RECORDS.

MAI’—l\IOUNTING DONE ON THE PREMISES.

Spring Roller Maps, Case Maps, 8:0. Globes, Atlases, Charts.


GEOLOGICAL MAPS. amen sooxs.
TRAVELLING MAPS. SCHOOL MAPS. LARGE WALL-MAPS.
GEOGRAPHICAL WORKS. MILITARY SKETGHES, M.

GEOGRAPHICAL WAREHOUSE,
35, Parliament Street, London.
16 MURP.AY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,

F 1.0 R E N c E.
MESSRS. COSTA & CONTI,
ARTISTS,
No. 1318, VIA DEI IBARIDI (Studio On the First Floor).
Messrs. Cosm and CONTI keep the largest collection in Florence of original
Ancient and Modern Pictures, as well as copies of all the most celebrated masters.
N.B.—English spoken.
Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M‘CRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry,
London.

F |. 0 §_E N c E. _
VIGUIER, NEE MAUCHE,
PIAZZA SANTA MARIA NOVELLA, N0. 4253, First F100};
Next door to the Casa Libra‘.

Linen and Linen Articles, ready-made Shirts and Shirt-fronts, plain and
cmb1'oide1'e<l. -
Handkerchiefs, in Cambric and Linen, plain and embroidered, white and coloured.
Stockings and Socks, for Ladies and Gentlemen. '
Damask Napkins and Table Linen.
Every kind of Novelty in Ladies’ Dresses, Szc.
This Establishment, selling for account of the first English and French Houses,
furnishes articles of the best quality at Manu€acturers' prices.-——Fixed Prices.

FLORENCE.
__g_._

PICTURE ROOMS.

MR. E. BACGIOTTI,
Via. Legnajoli, No. 1,
OPPOSITE THE STROZZI PALACE,

THE best Copies of the Florentine Galleries may be found there. If desired,
arrangements can be made for prices to include delivery free of charges in London
or New York.
Correspondenbs in London, Messrs. J. and R. M‘C-RACKEK, 7, Old luv;-y,
1861. l\IURIIAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 17

EDWARD WHITE,
(FROM DENT’S,)
cunonomnwnn,
A WATCH, AND CLOCK
MANUFACTURER.

Ii. WHITE,
For several years prin
cipal assistant at Messrs.
DmzT’s, of Oockspur
Street, having taken the
premises formerly occu- ~
pied by Messrs. Green J,‘
and Ward, respectfully i

solicits an inspection of
l his Stock, comprising a
S choice selection of

CHRONQMETERS, WATCHES,
;Q|-.0.G.K_$¢. 8°C‘:
Which have been recently manufactured, on the most improved principles,
by workmen of the first talent.

20, GOCKSPUR STREET, PALL MALL,


Lennon, s.w.
C
18 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,

TO VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT


.__._.¢__.__
Lounon, lsr MAY, 1861.

OLIVIER & CARR,


37, Finsbury Square, London,
COMMISSHIN MERCHANTS AND GENERAL AGENTS
For Shipment and Reception of Goods to and from all Parts of the World.

Agents to Mr. F. BEYERMAN, Bordeaux, and


Mr. T. FOWLE, Marenil, near Ay, Champagne, and 8, Rue Pernelle, Paris,
FOR THE SALE OF THEIR BORDEAUX AND CHAMPAGNE WINES.

UNDERTAKE to receive, and pass through the Customhouse


in London, Liverpool, Southampton, &c., packages of every description,
particularly THE WORKS OF ART AND OTHER PROPERTY, THE
PURCHASES OF VISITORS TO THE GONTINENT, assuring those who
may favour them with their patronage that the greatest attention will be combined
with Iodemto Charges.
The Bills of Lading and Letters of Advice of Packages sent to Liverpool and
Southampton should be addressed to O. & C. in London, and keys of locked Packagu
should be sent to them, as everything must be opened immediately on arrival.
O. & C. also undertake the execution of orders at a moderate commission for
THE PURCHASE OF GOODS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, being enabled
from their long experience as Commission Merchants, and thorough knowledge of
all the Markets, to purchase on the most advantageous terms.
In order to comply with the frequently expressed desire on the part of Traveller!
to know in anticipation to what expenses their Packages are liable on arrival in
England, Omvn-:11 & CARR have established the following
Rates of Charges on the Reception of Packages.
For Landing f1"om the Ship, clearing through the Customhouse, Delivery
in any part of London, Agency included :
On Trunks or Cases of Baggage and Personal Efi"ects, if sent singly. 98. each,
IF3 Packages sent at one time. . . . . . . . . 7s.
no ,, ,, ,, . . . . . . . . . 5s.e<1.’,I
On Cases containing Works of Art or other objects, the purchases of
Travellers, of moderate size and value, if sent singly . . . . 15s. ,,
If 3 Cases sent at one time . . . . . . . . . 125. ,,
If 6 as H 99 - O 95- ,,
On large Cases of valuable Pictures, Statuary, 8ic., ’the'cha.rges will depend on
the care and trouble required, but they will be on the same moderate scale
as above.
Their Mr. C. H. OLIVIER having been established at the above address as a
Commission Merchant for thirty years, and their Mr. C. CARR having been
upwards of nineteen years in the house of Messrs. J. & R. M‘Cracken, General
Agents, No. 7, Old Jewry, they can olfer the results of long experience and a
determination to render themselves worthy of the patronage which they respectfully
solicit. Their principal Correspondents are as follows.
1861. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 19

OLIVIEB It CLBB’S COITQIPOIIIIQIII arc—

At Aix-la-Chapelle... Messrs. A. SOUHEUR & CO.


,, Alexandria .... .. Mr. E. St. '1. FAIRMAN.
,, Antwerp ....... .. Mr. F. VERELLEN BEERNAERT.
,, Beale ...... .. Mr. J. J. FREY.
,, Bordeaux ....... .. Mr. F. BEYERMAN, to whom O. 8: C. are Agents for
the Sale of his Wines.
,, Boulogne Mr. L. BRANLY.
,, Calais ............ Messrs. CHARTIER, MORY, & VOGUE
,, Cologne Messrs. G. 'l‘lLME§ & C0,; Mr. C. H. VAN ZUTPHEN.
,, Constantinople Messrs. VALSAMACHY & CO., Galata.
,, Dresden............ Mr. JOI-IANN CARL SEEBE.
,, Florence Messrs. W. H. WOOD 8100.; Mr. J. TOUGH.
,, Frankfort Mi-.1-I. HENLE.
Mr. MORITZ B. GOLDSCHMIDT, Banker.
,, Geneva Messrs. JOLIMAY 8: CO.
,, Genoa Mr. J. NIMMO, 12, Strada Ponte Beale.
,, Hamburg .. Messrs. JULIUS WUSTENFELD 8: C0.
,, Havre ............ Messrs. H. L. MULLER & STEHELIN.
,, Interlacken .... .. Messrs. RlT$Cl-IARD 8: BURKI.
,, Leipzig .......... .. Messrs. GERHARD 8: HEY.
,, Leghorn. Mr. MARIO GIOVANNETTI, 13, Smli della Darsena
Nuova.
-I mm=11== $2522: §i'<>‘§<“l‘§i; ‘£‘B%‘C'i§i=T s C0.
,, Milan ...... .. . Mr. LOUIS MALEGUE, Rue de l’Agneau, No. 8 rouge.
,, Munich .. Mr. J. GUTLEBEN. .
,, Nice ...... .. .. Messrs. LES FILS DE CH. GIORDAN.
,, Ostend. .. Mr. J. DUCLOS ASQANDRI.
,, Paris Messrs. VICTOR GRAND 8: CO., Bankers, 14, Rue de
Trevise.
Messrs. DELASSUS 8: LEDOUX, Packers and Forwarding
Agents, 6, Rue Neuve St. Augustin, pres la Bourse.
Mr. T. FOWLE, 8, Rue Pernelle, and at Mar-euil,near Ay,
to whom O. & C. are Agents for the Sale of his
Champagnerwines.
,, Prague .... Mr. J. J. SEIDL, Hibernergasse, No. 1000.
,, Rome ...... .. .... Messrs. G. DALLEIZETTE 81 C0.; Mr. J. P. SHEA.
,, Rotterdam.... Mr. J. A. HOUWENS.
,, Trieste Messrs. MARTIN FRERES.
,, Mr. C. REMONDINI.
,, Venice .. Mr. HENRY DECOPPET.
,, Vienna Messrs. ARNSTEIN & KRAUS.

O. & C. have a Stock in London of


Pure Bordeaux and Rhine Wines imported direct, from 18:. to 96s. per doz.
wmns IN woon csx BE PROCURED AT snom" NOTICE.

ULIVIER 6'. CARR, 37, FINSBURY SQUARE, LONDON.


c2
20 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,

GHUBB’S PATENT DETECTOR LOCKS.


-1000?

0HUBB’S LOCKS aiford the greatest security from all Picklocks,


. or false Keys; also detect any attempt to open them, are extremely simple and
durable, and of all sizes and for every purpose to which locks can be applied.
Trunks, Portmanteans, Travelling Bags, Dressing Gases, Writing Desks,
&c., fitted with only the usual common and utterly insecure locks, can have the
place of these supplied by ChU.bb’S Patent without alteration or injury.
Travellers’ Lock-Protectors and Portable Scutoheon Locks for securing
Doors that may be found fastened only by common locks.
GHUBB & SON have always in stock a variety of Writing and Despatch
Boxes in Morocco or Russia leather, and japanned Tin; the latter being particu
larly recommended for lightness, room, durability, and freedom from damage by
insects or hot climates. Writing Boxes fitted with trays and stationery complete,
and japanned either plain or in imitation of oak, rosewood, and other woods. All
are secured by the Detector Locks.
Travelling Covers for Writing Boxes kept in readiness.
Best Black Enamelled Leather Travelling Bags of various sizes, all with
Chubb’s Patent Locks.
“Cash, Deed, and Paper Boxes of all dimensions.

J GHUBB’S FIREPROOF SAFES.


-100%

HESE SAFES are constructed in the very best manner, of the


strongest wrought-iron, fitted with Chubb’s Patent Drill-preventive and
their Gunpowder-proof Steel-plated Detector Locks, are the most secure from
fire and burglary, and form the most complete safeguard for Books, Papers, Deeds,
Jewels, Plate, and other valuable property. ,
CHUBB Gt SON have also Safes not fireproof, but equally secure in all other
respects, intended for holding plate where protection from fire is not an object,
and afibrding much more room inside than the Fireproof Safes. They are recom
mended specially in place of the ordinary wooden cases for plate, which may so
easily be broken open.

Complete Illustrated Priced Lists of CImbb’s Locks, .B0:r;es, Safes, and other
Manufactures, gratis and post-free.

CHUBB and SON, 57, St. Pa.u1’s Churchyard,


London, E.C.
J4
1861. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 21

MUDIE’S SELECT LIBRARY.


A REVISED LIST
OF THE

Principal New and Choice Books


IN CIRCULATION AT THIS EXTENSIVE LIBRARY
IS NOW READY,
AND MAY BE OBTAINED ON APPLICATION.

This List will serve to indicate the INCLUSIVE character of the whole Collection,
which now exceeds Six Hundred Thousand Volumes, and to which all Books of
acknowlechcged merit and general interest are added, in large numbers, on the day
of publication.

Single Subscription, ONE GUINEA per Annum,


, COMMENCING AT ANY DATE.

First-Class Country Subscription (Fifteen Volumes at One Time) Five Guineas


per Annum, of the best and newest Works; exchangeable (in sets) at pleasure.
CHARLES CTJDWARD MUDIE,
509, 510, & 511, New Oxford Street, and 20, 21, '& 22, Museum Street, London;
74 & 76, Cross Street, Manchester; and 45, New Street, Birmingham.

THE ATHENEUM.
I1: having been represented to the Proprietors that when the Arumuenu started in its career
its yearly volume consisted of 840 pages, whilst now it has increased to double that number
of pages, the Proprietors resolved that the ATHENEUM should be paged in half-yearly
volumes, and an enlarged Index is now given with each volume in January and July.

E VERY SATURDAY, PRICE F0 URPENCE, OF ANY BOOKSELLER,

T H E A T H E N IE U M
JOURNAL or LITERATURE, SCIENCE, AND ART.)
(sramrnn TO co FREE nr rosr, 5d.) Cosrsrns :-—
Reviews, with extracts, of every important New English Book, and of the more im-I
portant Foreign Works.
Reports of the Proceedings of the Learned Societies, with Abstracts of Papers of Interest.
Authentic Accounts of Scientific Voyages and Expeditions.
Foreign Correspondence on subjects relating to Literature, Science, and Art.
Crilticisngs on Art, with Critical Notices of Exhibitions, Picture Collections, New
‘rims, (‘(3.
Mu_§ic_ azad Drama, including Reports on the Opera, Concerts, Theatres, New
1' l1SlC, vc.
Biographical Notices of Men distinguished in Literature, Science, and Art.
Original Papers and Poems.
‘Weekly Gossip.
Miscellanea, including all that is likely to interest the Informed.
.THE ATHENEUM
is so conducted that the reader, however distant, is, in respect to Literature, Science, and the
Arts, on an equality in point of information with the best-informed circles of the Metropolis.
Ofilce for Advertisements, 20, Wnumsrou STREET, Srnaxu, hozwon, W. C.
22 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER; May;

PERFECT.FllEED0lll FBOM muons IN TEN nuwnas mun use,


A-ml Instant Relief and a Rapid (lure of Asthma, Consumption, Coughs, Colds,
AND ALL DISORDERS OF THE BREATH AND' LUNGS, ARE INSURED BY

4-

Tnteresting Testimonial in favour of DR. L0oooK's PULMONIC WAFERS.


From Mr. 'l‘. J. Davies, Chemist, Rhosmaen Street, Ll-andilo.—“Gentlemen, I send you the
enclosed testimonial, which you can depend upon. Mr. Jenkins is well known as aminister
of the Gospel throughout the principalit for thirty years. I sell more of Dr. Loc0ck’s
Wafers than any other Patent Medicine.— ruly yours, '1‘. J. D,u'n~:s.”
“ Marry’s Cottage, near Llandilo.'
“ Sir,—I have been for fifteen months afliicted with confirmed Asthma, attended with
violent coughing. I have tried nearly all supposed remedies without any relief; but, provi
dentially, I am happy to inform you that I was considerably relieved by taking two boxes of
Dr. Locock’s Pulmonic Wafers. You can make this public.—l am, Sir, yours faithfully, '
“ WILLIAM Jmums,
“ To Mr. T. J. Davies, Chemist, Llandilo.” Calvinistic Methodist Minister."
T0 Singers and Public Speakers they are invaluable for clearing and
Strengthening the voice. Tmar rmvn A PLEASANT Tasrn. Price ls. 1=id., 2s. 9d., and 11s.
per box. Sold by all Druggists. Also,
DR. LOGOCK’S COSMETIC.
A delightfully fragrant preparation for improving and beautifying the complexion, rendering
the skin clear, soft, and transparent, removing all eruptions, freckles, sunburn, tan, pimples,
and roughness. Sold in bottles at ls. 1&d., 2s. 9d., and 4s. 6d. each. Beware of oounterfe-its..
Observe the words “ Dr. Locock’s Cosmetic" on the government stamp outside the wrapper.‘
Sold by all Chemists.

RAVELLERS and TOURISTS should be provided with “ BURROw’S


LANDSCAPE GLASSES,” if they desire to really enjoy the scenery of the
country they intend traversing. The Press have unanimously praised these Glasses
as the best yet produced, and the leading literary and scientific journal thus speaks
of them :—
" Alp-climbers, yachters, naturalists, riflemen, pedestrians, summer tourists of all kinds
have an interest in the art of making field-glasses. \Ve have recently tried on the hill-side
and at the butts a landscape-glass, made by Messrs. Burrow, of Great Malvern; and though
the price is moderate, we can speak well of its powers. It is small in the pocket, light in
the hand, easily adjusted, and renders the form and colour of the object more than a mile off
with distinctness. At the sea-side, at a review, or among the moors, such a companion
as the Malvern Landscape Glass must be valuable to many men. It is also available at the
Opera.”-—Atl4e'ntvum.
In sling cases, price Three and a Half and Six Guineas, forwarded on receipt
of Post-office Orders, W. 8: J. BURROW, Great Malvern.
“ This is the best binocular Telescope yet invented.”—Belt's Life.
" The most compact, accurate, and powerful Glass we have met with."—Field.
" Excellent glasses, admirably adapted for deer-stalkers, yachtsmen, and sportsmen.”
Illustrated London News.
CAUTION.-—W. and J. BURROW find it necessary to warn the public against
deception, as unprincipled persons are selling inferior Glasses under the same
or similar names.
The GENUINE MALVERN GLASSES‘ can ONLY be obtained from
Messrs. BURROW’S ESTABLISHMENT, Belle Vue Place, Great Malvern.
ORDERS BY POST, ENCLOSIXG REMITTANCE, EXECUTED THE SAME DAY.
1861. MURRAY’ S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 23

To Tourists in Britain. {*;“_‘.‘:.7,'3.f¢:',:’.§"".:’,?.f.,?


In neat Portable Volumes, illustrated with Maps, Charts, and Views of Scenery,
and containing full particulars regarding Hotels, Distances, &c. &c.
15118181111. 10/5- 1 Scotland, 8/6.
511811511 I-flkfi 1'-ll81¢1‘101=. 5/- lHighlands (Anderson's), 10/6.
Wales, North and South. 5/. Trosachs, 1/6.
North Wales, separately, 3/6. Skye, 1/.
Derby and Warwick, each 2/. Staifa and Iona, 1/6.
Hampshire (Isle of Wight), 2/. Sutherlandshire, 1/.
Gloucester and Hereford, 2/. Edinburgh, 3/6 dc 1/6.
Yorkshire, 2/6. 1 Glasgow, 2/6 81. 1/.
Surrey, 5/. lireland, 5/.
Kent, 2/. 4 Dublin, Hillarney, each 1/6.
Sussex, 1/. I Belfast, 1/6.

BLACIPS IIILIII AND RAILWAY TRAVELLING MAPS,


Carefully constructed from the Maps of the Ordnance Survey and other Authorities, neatly
bound in portable cases, prioe 4s. 6d. each.
England, 32 x 22+. 5/6. Scotland, 3z>< 22}. 1/6.
English Lakes, 19 X14. 2/6. Scotch Counties, each 1/.
Wales, N. 6; S., 14 X 11¢. each 1/6. Ireland, 20 X 14}. 2/6.
Derbyshire, 1/. Kent and Sussex, 1/6.
Smaller Maps at 2s. 6d. and Is. each,

THE ENGYCLOPJEDIA BRITANNIGA.


EIGHTH EDITION.
A Dictionary of Arts, Sciences, and G’-eneral I/iterature.
WITH UPIVABDS OF FIVE THOUSAND ILLUSTRATIONS ON VVOOD AND STEEL
AND A COMPLETE INDEX.
I‘. 21 Volumes 4to. cloth, price £25 12s.; or handsomely half-bound
in Russia leather, £32.

BLACK’S GENERAL ATLAS tifi. WORLD.


A Series of Fifty-Six Maps
OF THE PRINCIPAL COUNTRIES or THE WORLD, WITH ALL THE MOST
RECENT DISCOVERIES, NEW BOUNDARIES, Sac.
And accompanied by an Index of 65,000 Names, forming a ready Key to the
Places mentioned in the Maps. Price £3, half-bound morocco, gilt leaves.

EDINBURGH: ADAM AND enlmnss BLAOK.j


M MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,

OFFICIAL

Qlllustrabzh fiailtnag @11lIT£-giiflfllifi,


BY GEORGE MEASOM.

Second Editions. '


North-Western Railway and its Branches. Three Hundred
and Sixty Engravings.
ONE SEII|I|IZN'G

Lancaster and Carlisle, Edinburgh and Glasgow, and Cale


DONIAN RAILWAYS. One Hundred and Fifty Engravings.
ON’ 8811-1180
All the above bound together, 35. fid
“ It is certainly the most perfect Railway Guide that has yet appeared. As an ‘ oficial '
work, it has authority when speaking of the history and statistics of the line: all is done
well. Few books descriptive of tours contrive to tell so much, describing all that is worthy
of description by the way, and conducting the traveller along each branch as the points are
arrived at where each branch diverges from the ’tI'\1I1k."—A'l‘HENA~3UlI.
" A marvel ofcheapness—being, perhaps, the cheafifstbflolr everproduced under any circum
stances; and, whether as a guide-book or a work of reference, it is worthy a place in every
ltbrary.”—N1-zws or rm: Womm.
“ This useful and delightful volume, which is a perfect marvel of cheapness, is prefaced
with many interesting railway statistics, and useful directions to the traveller. The book,
indeed, is so useful and entertaining, that every one who has travelled, or intends to travel,
ought to have it, while he who has made up his mind to stay at home can find no better
substitute for travel.”-L1vmu>00L MERCURY.

The South-Eastern Railway and its Branches. 200 Engravings.


oars: surname.
Northern of France, with Six Days in Paris. 100 Engravings
and splendid Map.
on: surname. .;,
The above two Works, bound together, with Map, 3;. 611;‘
“ Invest the sum of a shilling for each of the two guide-books above mentioned; and he
will have not only an amu.~ing and instructive companion for the whole route, but save as
many pounds as he has spent preliminary pence. The Northern of France and Paris is by
far the best guide-boolc we have yet seen of Paris, and the route there by Boulogne. The
books, in fact, are well worthy a place in any library.”-News OF THE Wont».
"Mr. George Measom maintains his credit as a railway topographer for travellers this
summer with two Ofiicial Illustrated Guides—one to the South-Eastern Railway and its
Branches, a most liberal sht'lling's worth of edijication ; the other to the Northern Railway
in France. The latter of these includes a very clever illustrated summary of what may be
seen in six days in Paris.”--Exhmm-:B.

The Brighton and South-Coast Railway. One Shilling.


The South-Western Railway and its Branches. One Shilling.
R- GRIFFIN» BOHN, & CO., Stationers’ Hall Court, Paternoster Row.
W. H. SMITH & SON, Euston, and all Stations on the Line.
1861 . MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 25

OFFICIAL ILLUSTRATED RAILWAY GUIDE-BOOKS—¢""¢i1W¢¢

Second Editions.
Great Westem Railway and its Branches. 600 Engravings.
orm SHILLING.
Bristol and Exeter, North and South Devon, Cornwall, and
SOUTH WALES RAILWAYS. 300 Engravings. 500 Pages of Letterpress.
ONE SHILLING.
The above two Works bound together, 30. Gd.
" Mr. George Measom’s Oflcial Illustrated Guide to the Great Western Railway is the
continuation of a remarkable series of illustrations, literary and pictorial, of country crossed
by our great English railway lines. The abundance and excellence of the information, and
the good woodcuts given in these works for a. shilling, is one of the literary marvels of our
day. 'I‘he shilling ofiicial guide to the Great Western itself contains 872 pages of letter
press, with a woodcut or several woodcuts upon almost every leaf.”—E.\'.uu1\'r~:u.
“ The largest shilling’s worth of reading we ever saw. This interesting publication is a
marvel of cheapness. Theillustrations are well chosen and well executed, and the letter
press is written in the plain unvarnished style which characterises the previous works of the
observant traveller, Mr. Mcasom.”-Biusroi. MlRliOR.
“ The Oflkrial Illustrated Guide to the Bristol and Earcter Railu-ays.—This valuable guide
is exactly similar in style and construction to the larger companion volume noticed above,
giving descriptive illustrated notices of the diiferent places on the various lines. No person
travelling in South Wales and the West of England should be without this new ofiicial
guide.”—Bmsr0L Mmaoa.
" Illustrated Railway Guides.—Mr. George Measom has just added to his previous
achievements one which cannot fail to excite the greatest astonishment. He has published
The l)flCi0.l Guide to the Great Western Ra-ilway—a bulky volume, containing nearly 900
pages of well-printed descriptive matter, and 300 well-executed eugr-avings—the charge for
which is the absurdly low sum of one shilling! The book is the cheapest book ever published
in the world, and the editor may well speak of the ‘ studious toil ' necessary to get up such
a mass of information relative to such a multitude of places. Mr. Measom has also pub
lished The (/flcial Illustrated Guide to the Bristol and Ezeter, South and North Devon,
South Wales, and Cornwall Railways. If it were not for its gigantic companion, this Guide
must be pronounced marvellous] y cheap."-—Ln'1-zaroot. M sncunr.

In the Press, ready in June, 1861.

Great Northern; Manchester, Sheffield, and Lincolnshire; and


MIDLAND RAILWAYS. 300 Engravings. 600 Pages of Letterpress.
ONE SHILLING.
In the Prats, ready in June, 1861.

North-Eastern; North British; Edinburgh and Glasgow;


SCOTTISH CENTRAL; EDINBURGH, PERTH, AND DUNDEE; SCOTTISH
NORTH-EASTERN; and GREAT NORTH OF SCOTLAND RAILWAYS. 200
Engravings. 500 Pages of Letterpress.
ONE SHILLING.
' The above two Works bound together, 3s. 6d.

Messrs. R. GRIFFIN 8: CO., Stationers’ Hall Court, Paternoster Row.

*,,,* Mr. GEORGE MEASOM will feel obliged for any local information of public general
interest for embodiment in future Editions of the above Works.

Ofices—74, Oharrington Street, St. Pancras,


London, N.W.-—May, 1861.
26 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. _ May,

DIRECT INTERNATIONAL SERVICE


IN CORRESPONDENCE

Between Vienna and Constantinople,


VIA RESTH, BASIAZ, TCHERNAVODA, AND KUSTENDJIE,
l T

Placing Constantinople within 6 Days’ Journey from London.


SEA-PASSAGE ABOUT 20 HOURS.
Tickets available for 30 days, with liberty to stop at intermediate Stations.
TWO SERVICES WEEKLY.

Departures from Vignng, by Railway to Baslaz, thence by Steamer of Danube Navigation


Company to Tchcrnavoda, Railway to Kustendjie, and Austrian Lloyd's to Constan
tinople, evgry Monday and Thu;-gdgy at 2 P.M., due at Constantinople Friday and
Monday at 8 4.11.
FARES IN FRANCS.
First-Class. . 325 Second-Class . . 226'65 Mixed . . 304'30
Mixed Tickets are First-Class between Constantinople and Basiaz, and [Second-Class by Rail
or Steamer between Basiaz and Vienna.

The Exp;-egg B931; of the Danube Steam Navigation Company leaves Vienna every
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following day at equal cost.
The Traveller leaving SOUTH-EASTERN STATION, LONDON BRIDGE, on SATUR
DAY or TUESDAY at 6'55 A.M., either via Paris, Strasbourg, and Munich, or via Calais,
Brussels, Cologne, Mayence, arrives at Vienna mid-day MONDAY or THURSDAY, and
may leave again at 2 P.M. same day for Constantinople.

Return from Constantinople every Monday and Saturday at 9 A-M-. due at


Vienna every Friday and Wednesday at 1'52 rm.
The DANUBE STEAMER in correspondence with the Saturday Service from Constan
tinople ls due in Vienna the following Friday about noon.
The Traveller can leave Vienna for England the day of his arrival, at 4 P.M. or 7 '30 P.)I.
according to the Route chosen.

FARES, IN FRANCS, BETWEEN LONDON AND CONSTANTINOPLE.


1st Class. 2nd Class. Mixed.
Via Paris and Strasbourg . . . . . . 563' 20 400'5 477 '70
Viii Cologne and Mayence . . . . . . 538 '80 384' 15 461 '80
The food on board the Danube Boats and Austrian Ll0yd’s is included in the fare.

TICKETS OBTAINABLE AT THE SOUTH -EASTERN RAILWAY


STATION, LONDON.

For further particulars apply in England to the SECRETARY of the Danube and Black Sea
Railway and Kustendj ie Harbour Company (Limited),
24, ABINGDON STREET, LONDON, S.W.
N.B.-A GOOD HOTEL] AT KUSTENDJIE, WHERE ALL INFORMATION AS T0
ROUTES MAY BE OBTAINED.
1861. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 27

PASSPORT AGENCY OFFICE, '


LONDON, 59, FLEET STREET, E. C.
Regulations for obtaining Foreign Oflice Passports gratis.
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Every Description qf Stationery for Travellers.
THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY’S HANDBOOKS.
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BaAnsnAw’s Bnmsn and Co1~'rnnz1vr.u. Gmnss and Harmnooxs to France, Belgium,
Switzerland, Paris, London, &c.
KELLAR'S Map of Switzerland, Original Edition, 6:. 6d. and 10s. 6d.
I N D I A.
BRADSlIAW'S Overland and Through Route Guide to India, China, and Australia, 5s.
Bn.\nsn.lw’s Handbook to the Bombay Presidency and the North-West Provinces, Madras,
and Bengal, 10s. 6d. each. ii
Exrnamncsn Counmns MAY BE nan on APPLICATION T0
W. J. ADAMS (Bradshaw's British and Continental Guide Oflice).
LONDON, 59, FLEET STREET, E.C.
Osrrcn Houas 8 TO 7. Slvrusnavs 8 TO 3. ~
J in -i-Q;

GRAND HOTEL DE LYON,


RUE IMPERIAL, AND PLACE DE LA BOURSE, LYONS.

TWO HUNDRED BEDROOMS, and TWENTY SALOONS, in every Variety;


Large and Small Apartments for Families, elegantly furnished; Saloons for Ofiicial
Receptions; Conversational and Reading Rooms; Cofl'ee and Smoking Divan; Baths; Private
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ALL LANGUAGES SPOKEN
The GRAND HOTEL DE LYON is too important and too well known to require inju
dicious praise: it suflices to state that it cost nearly THREE MILLIONS OF FRANCS,
and that the accommodation is of so comfortable and luxurious a character as to attract the
notice of all visitors.
Although the GRAND HOTEL DE LYON aifords the most elegant accommodation for
the highest classes, it is frequented by visitors of the humblest pretensions. Rooms at 2 frs.,
very comfortably furnished.
TABLE D’HO'l‘E at 4 frs. In consequence of the Proprietors having contracted with the
Bordeaux and Burgundy Wine-growers for supplies of their Best Wines, qualities of the
first vintages may be had at this Hotel at moderate prices. Since the Hotel has been in the
hands of new Proprietors, instead of a Company, the reduction they have made in the prices '
precludes them from paying Fees to the Cab and Coach Drivers at the Railway Station.
Travellers are therefore requested to bear in mind that the Grand Hotel de Lyon is situated
in the centre of the Rue Impérial, near the Bank of France, and opposite the Palace of the
Bourse.
28 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,

Books of Voyages and Travels, 1701'/cs on Natural History, gfc.


MAY, 1861.
TEN WEEKS in JAPAN. By the Brsnor of VICTORIA (Hung Kong).
With A Map and 8 Illustrations in Chromo-xylography. Bvo. 14s.
THE NATURAL HISTORY of CEYLON : comprising Anecdotes
illustrative of the Habits and Instincts of the Illamrnalin, Birds, Reptiles, Fishes, Insects,
km, of the Island; also a Monograph of the Elephant, and a Description of the Modes
of Capturing and Training it. By Sir J. Esrnnsou Tnmn:x'r_ K.C.S., LL.D., &c.
Republished from ‘ An Account of Ceylon,’ &c., with copious Additions, and new Illus
trations from Original Drawings. Post Bvo. [Nearly ready.
‘WILD LIFE on the FJELDS of NORWAY. By Framers M. Wynn
nan. With 5 Illustrations in Chrome-lithography, 2 Maps, and 5 Woodcuts. Post.
Bvo. 10:. 6d.
ALPINE BYWAYS. By a LADY. With a Map and several Illustra
tions in Chromo-lithography. Post Bvo. [Nearly 'rea.d_1/.
THE ALPS; or, Sketches of Life and Nature in the Mountains. By
. Banmrscu. Translated by the Rev. Lssus Srarusx, MA svo. with 17 Plates.
[Nearly Ready.
NARRATIVE of the CANADIAN RED RIVER EXPLORING
EXPEDITION of 1857, and of the ASSINNIBOINE and SASKATCHEWAN
EXPLORING EXPEl)l'l‘lON of 1858. By HENRY Yours llrxn, M.A., F.R.G.S., Sac.
With 20 Chrome-xyiograplis, ‘I6 Woodcuts, 3 Maps, Bzc. 2 vols. 8v0. 42:.
SEVEN YEARS’ RESIDENCE in the GREAT DESERTS of NORTH
AMERICA. By the Abbé Donsnncn. \Vith above 60 Illustrations. 2 vols. 8vo. 36:.
ANAHUAC; or, Mexico and the Mexicans, Ancient and Modern. By
EDWARD B. Trmn. . 856 ; with Route Map, 4 Illustrations in Chrorno-lithography,
and 26 Engravings on ood. Bvo. 12s.
THE SEA and ITS LIVING WONDERS. By Dr. GEORGE HARTWIG,
Author of ‘The Lite of the Tropics.’ With several Hundred Woodcuts, a Pliysiml
Map, and 12 Chromo-xylographs, from ‘designs by H. N. Humrnaars. Second Edition.
8V0. 18$.
THE LIFE of the TROPICS : a. Popular Scientific Account of the
V N etural History of the Animal and Vegetable Kingdoms in Tropical Regions. By Dr.
GEORGE Hairrwrc, Author of ‘ The Sea. and its Living Wonders.’ [In preparation.
A WEEK at the LAND S END. By J . T. BLIGHT, Author of ‘ Ancient
Crosses and other Antiquities of Cornwallz’ assist.ed,in Ornithology, by E. H. Bonn,
Fsq.; in Ichthyology, by R. Q. Coucrr, Esq., l\l.R.C.S.; and, in Botany, by J. Ranrs,
Esq., M.R.C.S. With :1 Map, geologically colourcd, and numerous Illustrations drawn
and engraved on the Wood by the Author. Square fcp. Bvo. [Nearly ready.
GLENCREGGAN ; or, a Highland Home in Cantire. By CUTHBERT
BEBE. With 3 Maps, B Chromo-lithographs, and numerous Woodcuts from Designs by
the Author. 2 vols. post 8vo. [Nearly ready.
TWO MONTHS in the HIGHLANDS, ORCADIA, and SKYE. By
CHARLES Rrcnnan WELD, Barrister-at-Law. With 8 illustrations. Post Bvo. 12s. Gd.
THE AFRICANS at HOME: being a. popular Description of Africa
and the Africans, condensed from the Accounts of African Travellers from the time of
Mungo Park to the Present Day. By the liev. R. M. lilsc-Briana, M.A., Author of the
‘ Liunggigo and Fools Grammars,’ &c. With a new Map and about 70 Vi/oodcui. Illus
tratio . Square fcap. éivo. ‘ls. 611.
THE LAKE REGIONS of CENTRAL AFRICA. By R. F. BURTON,
Captain l*l.M. Indian Army. Map and Illustrations. 2 vols. Svo. 3ls. 6d.
THE COMPARATIVE ANATOMY and PHYSIOLOGY of the VER
TEBRATE ANIMALS. By RICHARD OWEN, F.R.S., D.C.L., Superintendent of the
Natural History Department, British Museum; Fullerian Professor of Physiolog in the
Royal Institution oi" Great Britain; Foreign Associate of the Institute of France, &c_
In One thick Volume, Bvo. \Vith upwards of 1200 Engravings on Wood. [In the press.
SOCIAL LIFE and MANN ERS in AUSTRALIA: Being the Result
of Eight Years’ Experience. By a Rnsmnnr. Post evo. [Just ready. _

London: LONGMAN, GREEN, and 00., Paternoster Row.


1861. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 291

V0 YAGES AND TBA VELS, NATURAL HISTORY, &c.

PEAKS, PASSES, and GLACIERS. By Members of the Alpine Club.


Edited by JOHN BALL, M.R..I.A., President. Traveller's Edition, comprising the
Mountain Expeditions and the Maps printed in a condensed form. l6mo. 5:. 6d.
5' The Fourth Edition of ' Peaks, Rinses, and Glaciers,’ with 8 coloured Illustrations, may
still be had, in One Volume, square crown 8vo., price 21:.
THE OLD GLACIERS of NORTH WALES and SWITZERLAND.
By A. C. RAHSAY, F.R.S. and G.S..Lo<:1i Director of the Geological Survey of Great
Brintin. Reprinted from ‘Peaks, Passes, and Giacieis;' with Map and Woodcuts.
Fcap. Bvo. 4;. 64.
(THE EAGLES NEST’ in the Valley of Sixt: a. Summer Home
among the Alps. By Au-‘izr-:0 \ViLi.s, Barrister-at-Law. Second Edition. With 12
Illustrations on Stone, and 2 Maps. Post Bvo. 12.2. 6d.
RAMBLES in the ISLANDS of SARDINIA and CORSICA: with
Notices of their History, Antiquities, and Present Condition. By 'I‘noxAs Fonesrsa.
With a Map and many lllustrutions from Sketches by Lieut.-Col. BIDDULPIX, R.A.
Second Edition; with a New Preface. Imp. Svo. 185.
FOREST CREATURES : 1. The Wild Boar ; 2. The Roe, a New
Wonder in Natural History; 3. The Red Deer; 4. The Fallow Deer; 5. The Cock of
the Woods; 6. The Black Cock; 7. The Eagle; 8. Homer a Sportsman; 9. Hints. By
CHARLES Boson, Author of ‘Chamois Hunting in the Mountains of Bavaria.’ With
Illustrations by Guido Hammer, of Dresden. Post 8vo. [Just ready.
London: LONGMAN, GREEN, and 00., Paternoster Row.

"ill
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P9111
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~ &Po

CORN FLOUR
PATENT
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NEW GENERAL ATLAS. Dedicsted by Special Permission to theiqigen.
One Volume, imperial folio, half-bound morocco, price 5!. 15$. 611.,

Royal Atlas of Modern Geography:


In a Series of entirely original and authentic Maps. With an Ixmzx to each Map,
Arranged so as to obviate the inconvenient method of reference by Degrees and Minutes of
Longitude and Latitude.
- BY ALEX. KEITH JOHNSTON, F.R.S.E., F.IB..G.S., &c.,
Geographer in Ordinary to Her Majesty for Scotland, Author of the ‘ Physical Atlas,‘ 8-ac.
W. BLACKWOOD 8: SONS, Enmnunou AND Lonnox.
*,," Each Plate of the above Atlas may be had separately, with a special Index, price 4:. Gd.
mounted in Case for the Pocket; or in Sheets at 38.
30 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,

SPECIAL NOTICE.
PELIOAN LIFE INSURANCE OFFICE. Established in
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DIRECTORS
Octsvins E. Coope. Esq. Henry Lancelot Holland, Esq.
William Cotton, Esq., ]).C.L., F.R.S. William James Lancaster, Esq.
John Davis, Esq. John Lubbock, Esq., I<‘,R.S,
Jas. A. Gordon, Esq., M.D., F.R.S. Benjamin Shaw, Esq.
Edward Ha\vkins,jun., Esq. Matthew \Vhiting, Esq.
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*,* For Prospectuses, Forms of Proposal, &c., apply at the Oflices as above, or to any of
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THE LONDON and WESTMINSTER BANK issues Circular Notes of £10


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May 1, 1861. WM. EWINGS, General Manager.

GENEVA.

LIOI)ET,
_WATCHMAKER AND JEWELLER,
64-, Rue (111 Rhone.

ATOHES OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, manufactured


entirely on the Premises, and none sold that cannot be warranted
Pnnrnca: TIMEKEEPERS.

Travellers will always find a large choice of the newest style of

JEWELLERY, MUSIGAI. BOXES, MEGHINIGM. FIGURES,


SINGING-BIRD BOXES, &c.,
only to be seen in the few old-established Firms of Geneva.
N.B.-—All their Goods are warranted to their London, Paris, and New
York Agents, who are responsible for their answering the Guarantee
given at the time of Sale,
1861. MURRATS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 31

FLORENTINE BOUQUET,
Distilled from a combination of those delicious flowers for which Florence is so highly
celebrated, by

ROBERTS a 00.,
DISTILLERS OF ESSENCES,
AND

PHARMACIENS TO THE BRITISH LEGATION,


4190, (OPPOSITE THE COBBIPALACE),

FLORENCE.
In consequence of the daily increadng demands from England for this now fashionable bou
quet the proprietors have established a depot in LONDON at

A. Whitburn’s, Foreign Chemist, 174, Regent Street,


Where it may be obtained in any quantities; as also at their depots in
LH}HORN, H. Dorm, Via Grande. MODENA, Varmmr, Via Emilia.
TURlN, MONDO, Via Madonna degli Angeli, AREZZO, Cizccnlarmnnr, Via Vallelnnga.
No. 9. VERUNA, Scunsrnam.
MILAN, Pozzr, Ponte dl Ports Orientals. BORGO SAN SEP()LCRO, Gran.
GENOA, BBUZZA, Piazza Nuova. PlS'l‘0lA, FERDIIANDO MASX.
PISA, CARRAI, Lungo l'Arn0. CITTA DI CASTELLO, VEGNI.
LUCCA, Farmacla Milita-re, Via Grande. PADOVA, Gasraamr.
BOLOGNA, MELU)NI, Via Vetturlni. VICENZA, CURTI. [’I‘oledo.
SIENA, Ciuou, Piazza Tolomei. NAPLES, Loxsnno E Roumo, 303, Via
ANCONA, Bs.u.U1oi, Vinoenzo. ROME, Sunnnaaom.
Travellers are informed that at the above Pharmacy a supply of the followinggoods is
kept. All En llsh and French approved Patent Medicines and Medicated Lozenges; English
and French lain and highly Perfumed Soaps in great variety; Pure Cod Liver Oil from
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Homceopathlc Cocoa; Oatmeal; ltacahout des Arabes; Soda. and Seltzer Water in Syphoide
Vases; Congress Water direct from the Spring; India-rubber Goods of every description;
Finest Turkey Sponge; Sponge Bags; Metcalfe’s Tooth Brushes, Hair Brushu, and Nail
ditto ; Epps's Homceupathic Globules; Marrow Oil.
Depot for the Genuine Emu de Cologne of Jean Marla Farina (gegeniiber dem Jiilichs
Platz); Rowland’s Macassar Oil, Odonto, and Kalydor; Henry's Calcined Magnesia.

LAKE OF GEN EVA.


_._....4i.

GRAND HOTEL BYRON, AT VILLENEUVE,


NEAR THE CHATEAU CHILLON.
One of the most delightful situations in Europe, enjoying a grand and spacious panorama of
the Lake of Geneva and the beautiful and picturesque mountains which surround it. The
rooms are large, well-aired, and fitted up most comfortably. The hotel also possesses a large
public salon and reading-room, with beautiful promenades in its own grounds. The new
proprietor, Mr. Wows, will endeavour by particular attention in the service and by a good
direction of the house, as well as by moderate charges, to deserve the confidence of the fami
lies and tourists who honour him with their visits. He will do his best to provide them with
all the comforts of a first-rate hotel. '
Pension on very moderate tenns from 15th October to lst June.
32 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,

uttlg iilgmtislg fiaillnapj


COLOGNE. THE RHINE. NORTHERN AND EASTERN GERMANY,
AND SWITZERLAND, via HOLLAND.
—-—o<>~——
The shortest and cheapest route between England and the above-named places is by the
Boats of the

General Steam Navigation Company,


FROM LONDON TO ROTTERDAM,.
AND THENCE BY THE

DUTCH RHENISH RAILWAY.


One of the General Steam Navigation Company's First-Class Steamers ‘COLOGNE,’
‘LEO,’ or ‘CONCORDIA,' leaves St. Katharine‘s Wharf for Rotterdam, every Tuesday,
Thursday, and Saturday. The average passage is 18 hours, of which 10 hours are on the
Rivers Thames and Mans, and 8 at Sea. An Agent of the Dutch Rhenish Company will attend
the arrival of the Steamers at Rotterdam to assist the Passengers in transhipping to the
Railwa .
Passexngers adopting this Route will not only avoid the landing in small Boats at Ostend,
and crossing the Rhine at Cologne or Ruhrort, but will also effect a large saving in distance
and expense.
Through Tickets are issued in London for the following Places :
'A|X'LA-CHAPELLE. DUSSELDORF.
AMSTERDAM. HAMM.
BASLE. HANOVER.
BERLIN. HARBURG FOR HAMBURG.
BINGENJ LEIPZIG.
BREMEN. MANHEIM.
BRUNSWICK. MAYENCE.
COBLENTZ. MAGDEBURG.
COLOGNE. ‘ - MINDEN.
DRESDEN. OBERHAUSEN. 316- kc
The Direct Tickets are available for One Month from the date of issue, and enable the
holders to break the journey at the chief intermediate places.
Retum Tickets are also issued at a considerable reduction of price, and conferring the
same privileges as the Direct Tickets.
From Dusseldorf and Cologne Steamers run several times daily, passing through the whole
of the celebrated scenery of the Rhine. There are frequent daily communications between
Cologne, Bonn, Aix-la-Chapelle, Wiesbaden, Baden-Baden, Frankfort, Carlsruhe, &c.
Tickets for the above places, Lists of Fares, and every information as to hours of de
parture, 8.'c, can be obtained at the OFFICE OF THE DUTCH RHENISH RAILWAY,
40, GRACECHURCH STREET; the Offices of Messrs. Chaplin and Horne-Universal
Ofiice, Regent Circus, Piccadilly; Golden Cross, Charing Cross; Railway Oflice, 216, Oxford
Street; Swan with Two Necks, Gresham Street: and Tickets for Amsterdam, Cologne,
and Dusseldorf, at the Otiices of the General Steam Navigation Company, 37, Regent
Circus, Piccadilly, and 71, Lombard Street.
Very reduced throughout Rates for Parcels and Merchandize to the above Places and all
the principal Towns of the Rhine, Germany, and Austria. Lists of these Rates can be
obtained at the
LONDON 0FFICE, 4o, G1-acechurch Street, 11.0.
1861. M URRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. '33

DENMARK.
@

Now ready, with Map and Illustrations, 2 vols. 8vo. 24s.

RESIDENCE OF TWO YEARS IN JUTLAND, THE


DANISH ISLES, AND COPENHAGEN. By HORACE MARRYAT.
‘ Mr. Marryat goes from town to town, from building to building, and stamps upon each
the story or legend that gives it an interest. His volumes abound in amusing passages, and
his ground is comparatively new.’—Daily News.
' It is refreshing to meet with a work like this, which is as void of pretension as it is re
piete with interesting information. Mr. Marryat describes what he has seen vividly and
effectively, and in a style which is perfectly his own.’—Press.

‘ Mr. Marryat combines the discerning eye of the archaeologist, the ready hand of an
artist, and the knowledge of the historian.'—Lite1-ary Gazette.

JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street.

BAGNERES DE BIGORRE ZURICH.


Is a delightfully situated town at the foot of
the Pyrenees, possessing a large thermal es
tablishment and waters of much celebrity.
It is the most central of all the watering
J. H. KEREZ,
CHEMIST AND DRUGGIST,
places in the Pyrenees, and possesses the
most resources and the best accommodation ESPECTFULLY announces to Tour
alike for summer and winter. A dispe ists and Visitors that he prepares and
There is an English episcopal church and nses Medicines and Prescriptions ac
resident chaplain at Bagnéres, where several cording to the English Pharmacopoeia with
English families permanently reside. the purest and choicest Drugs and Chemicals.
THE HOTEL DE FRANCE J. H. Ksasz, having been a principal dis
Is a large and spacious establishment, well. pensing Assistant at one of the first Houses
situated, clean, and comfortable. The cuisine in England, hopes that his experience and
is first-rate. The proprietor, MONAL, is ac attention will merit the support and confi
customed to receive English families, and dence of the English Nobility and Gentry.
always uses his best endeavours to attend i J. H. K. keeps constantly on hand a well
to the wants of his guests and treat them ‘ selected Stock of the most popular English
with great liberaiity. i Patent Medicines and Perfumery.
\

NUREMBERG.
J. A. S T E I N
(0. A. DEMPWOLFF),
Magazine of Library, Photographs, and Objects of Art,
BAIERISCHER HOF.
MR. DEMPWOLFF begs leave to recommend his Magazine—Photographs, Library, and
Objects of Art--to the notice of Travellers visiting Nuremberg. They will find a large
collection of all indispensable Works, Photographs, Views, Engravings, Maps, &c., of
Nuremberg and other towns. All necessary information will be given to travellers with
the greatest pleasure. Great collection of reproductions of old and rare Engravings in
Photography.
To the year 1806 John Palm, famed for his deplorable death, was possessed of the old
establishment of J. A. Stein.
D
34 MURRA Y'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mav,

Epps’s Guinea Hommopathic NICE.


Medicine Case
Contains Twenty-four Remedies, and a Guide Villa Visconti Ci/mies.
giving full instructions for their use. This
Case, leather-covered and specially adapted PENSION ANGLAISE.
for the pocket, is always available in Loses of ‘.
_ emergency, as sea~sickness, sore throat, and! Conducted by an English Lady and Gentle
all common complaints. man. A charming modern i‘€Si(l€n&‘(*. winter
or summer, the air of Cimies Hill being re
JAMES EPPS, commended by medical men as preferable l0
Nice for delicate persons.
HOMCEOPATHIC CHEMIST,
112, Gnsxr Russsu. Smear; 170, P|cci\nrLLY; Frequented by the first English
AND 48,THREADNEEDLE S1-near, Losnon. Families.
Established 1838. SUPERIOR A(,‘COMMODATIO_‘<'.

N umzfiBERG. ALEXAN DRIA, EGYPT.


GREAT EXHIBITION
MANUFXFOTURES.
HOTEL ABBA'1‘T,,
Situate in a fine large airy square, Plggg
Warehouse for Toys of every kind, and for Ste, Catherine, will be found by all fami
Works in Wood, Ivory, and Horn, 8:0. Sac. lies and gentlemen who should patronise it
Can be viewed grutis at to be replete with every comfort.

A. WAHNSCHAFFE, French Table d'H6te or English


PLA OE JOSEPH L., No. 292, Living at option.
Where articles are sold at the Lowest Price. GOOD WINES, &c.

ESSENTIALS ox F2 R 0.
FOB

TRAVELLING.
i_Q__ SPIERS AND SON,
'l‘hresher’s India. Tweed Suits.
‘1‘hresher’s Kashmir Flannel Shirts. 102 & 103. HIGH STREET,
Thresher’s Kashmir Woollen Socks. Respectfully invite TOURISTS to VISIT
Thresher’s Coloured Flannel Shirts. their Extensive Warehouses for Useful and
Ornamental Manufactures, suitable for Pre
'.i‘hresher’s havelling Bags. sents and rememhranees of OXFORD.
SOLD ONLY BY All the GUIDE-BOOKS, MAPS, &c., of
Oxford and its neighbourhood kept in stock,
THRESHER & GLENNY, as well us Views, Photographs, Stereoscopic
152, srnmo, LONDON. Pictures, 8zc.

BREMEN. INTERLAKEN .
lHIiII[.II.MA.N"§ iEi<U)'lI‘1EiI..,, PHARMACIE ANGLAISE
The first Hotel at Brernen,,is situated on
AUG. F. IDJEENNLER,
the most beautiful part of the Ram art, and
in the immediate vicinity of the erminus,
Theatre, and Exchange. ENGLISH DRUGGIST,
Superior accommodation and comfort will PISPENSING CHEMIST.
be found here for families and gentlemen. SPECIALITES FRANQAISES.
The elegant Coffee Room attached to the EAUX MINFIRALES,
Hotel is supplied with a large selection of NATURELLES ET AR'l‘lFICIELLPB..
"English, French, and German Newspapers, PATENT MEDICINES.
\.l
1851. MURRAY’S H.'i.\'DBOOl\' AD\'ER'i‘lSlll'l. 35

PARIS.
Hotel (I08 Deinr Mondes et d’Angieteri'e,
8, RUE D’ANTlN.
Near the Tuileries, Place Vendéme, and the Boulevards.
THl$ Magnificent First-class Hotel, recently constructed and elegantly furnished
in the newest and most fashionzible style, siirrounded by Gardens, ]ilStlfi8S the
preference accorded to it by Families and Gentlemen, for the splendour and coni
fort of its Apartments, its excellent Chilsine, and the care and attention shown to
all who honour the Hotel with their pritronzige. Large and small Apai-tnients,
and single liooms at moderate Charges. Private liestauriint, splendid Cot‘l'ee
liooms, Snloons, Reading and Smoking liooms. Letter-box, Interpreters, Horses,
elegant Carriages, Oninibuses for the Railways.

V5153’!-"I-‘As MAI-‘IA. EOPPARD ON TE} RHINE.

W, KILTGSTQN, Family Hotel, Rhine Baths,


. . vrz.,
CHLLIIST AND DRUGGIST' HYDBOPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT OF
T°'m'° \ MUHLBAD.
- - - Prescriptions
Physicians _-‘ - - = ' rm
and Familv~ of HY noi>.irr$i;srAni.rsnMi~:.\'r
M[?HLBAD merits um,_mion' being
R8((l3lp€S catr<it)‘ully dispensed from the best‘ well kip!-..au'd inns peligliitful locality. It:
all pllres I'u9§, i Epp&l_'Il IIS I5 EXCB en , un til‘ SH eXP€l'lf:I'lC(‘
All Pharmacgutical Preparations made l fil)LY"l"mjél:§ur"1l;° :£::llf“‘_:‘£g‘5:; g:;)e:::‘;§;'
according to the Formulas of the British The Terms mfe very reamnabk; and'l‘o“rL_'_S
Pllfli'l1'lfl¢0P¢elfl5- who do not require treatment maybe boarded
Genuine Patent Jledicina. . and lodged comfortably here.

HOTEL WANDL,
The largest Hotel in the centre of the
Inner Town of Vienna,
p can nr: RECOMMENDED FOR
CAREFUL AITENDANOE AND MODERATE PRICES.

HIS FIRST-RATE HOTEL, with 200 Rooms, among which are


several Apartments for the Nobility, possesses new and comfortable
accommodation, and is one of the most frequented and best situated of
the Imperial Residences.
Dinners J: la aarte are served at any time of the day in the ‘peculiarly
decorated Dining Saloon and Room.
The Owner will use his best endeavours to preserve the good refuta
tion of the Establishment.
JOHANN l/VANDL,
Vienna. Horrzr. KEEPER.
' . D 2
09 J2
MURRAY’ S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,

B E R N E. l LUCERNE.

BERNF-R1155‘ (HOTEL)-IENGLISCTTER HOF.


Ma’ . xnarr' :9"P1-1 ° 2°' . Proprietor, smuw nznnn.
.i
HIS New and First-class Hotel for;
Families and Gentlemen is highly} HIS First-rate Establishment, very
recommended. It has 150 Rooms, com- , well recommended by the best class
mands from its windows a most exten-jof Travellers, is situated close to the
sive and splendid view of the whole-‘Steamers’ Landing-place, and vis-1‘;-m's
- chain of the Alps and of the beautiful i the Railway -Stations, on the loveliest
environs of Berne; as also the Govern- i position of the Lake, with superb views
ment Palace, the charming Promenade, 5 of the Rigi, Pilatus, Alps, and Glaciers;
the Ramparts, and Railway Terminus. contains several Saloons, 62 comfortable
The Hotel has excellent accommodation, Rooms, Smoking and Reading Rooms,
combining elegance and comfort, and i where are French and English News
ofi"ers to Tourists a desirable place of papers.
temporary residence. From October lst Chamber, IQ fr. up to 3 frs. Break
to July lst families can be accommodated i fast, 1Q fr,
with board and lodging at reasonable Tables d’H6te at 1, 4, and 7 o’clock.
terms. The prices are 3, 4, and 2§ frs. In
Baths in the Hotel. case of a longer stay, guests are received
Reading-rooms supplied with the en pension.
Times, Galignani's Messenger, Punch, Omnibuses and Droskies are at com~
and New York Herald. mand

AMSTEBDAM.
BRAGK$ DOELEN HOTEL
Situated in the Centre of the Town. and most convenient for Visitors on
Pleasure or Business.
T commands a splendid View of the Quays, &c.; and, being conducted on a
liberal scale, it is patronised by the highest classes of society in Holland. It is
also much frequented by English Travellers for the comfort and first-rate accom
modation it alTo1‘ds, as well as for the invariable civility shown to visitors.
Cold and Warm Baths may be had at any hour,
CARRIAGES FOR HIRE.
Table-d'H6te at half-past 4, or Dinner d la carte.
FLOREFNCE.

AUX VILLES DE FLANDRE.


PLACE STA. MARIA MAGGIORE, No. 4662.

DENTELLE»S',' BR ODERIE/S’, LINGERIES, E T CONFE CTIONS.


Ce Magasin tient un Dépot spécial d’Applications de Bruxelles.
Dentelles noires, Valenciennes, Imitations fines, Tuls unis et brodés.
Broderies do l'Etra.nger et Fabrique de Broderies do Florence.
»
I Trousseaua: en Lingerics et Parures complétes en Dentelles.
1861.

- NICE, FRANCE. -T
School for Young Gentlemen.
MR. J. NASH,
MAISON PONS,
2, CROIX DE MARBBE.
During the Summer Months (1st June to
1st Sept.) the School is carried on in the
neighbouring mountains; the address being,
Bollene, pres Lantosque, Alpes Maritimes.
To urists and 'l‘ra\'elle1's,
Visitors to the Seaside,
and others exposed to the scorching rays of the
Sun and heated particles of Dust, will find
FOREIGN LANGUAGES.
li0Wln\l\'l)S’ KALYIIUR
a most refreshing preparation for the Com~
FRANZ THIMM’S plexion, dispelling the cloud of languor and
relaxation, allaying all heat and irritability,
SERIES OF and immediately affording the pleasing sensa
tion attending restored elasticity and health
European Grammars, ful state of the skin. .
Freckles. Tan, Spots, Pimples. Flushes,
and Ifiscolouration, fly before its application,
AFTER AHN'S METHOD. and give place to delicate clearness, with the
9' glow of beauty and of bloom. In cases of
Gemian Grammar, by Meissner . . . :~o »t>w~ » t~»>t.ow o o o c cvm sunburn, or stings of insects, its virtues have
»9-»
French Grammar, by Ahn . . . . . long been acknowledged.
Italian Grammar, by Marchetti . . . Price 4s. 6d. and Rs. 6d. per Bottle.
Spanish Grammar, by Salvo .. .
Portuguese Grammar, by Cabano
Swedish Grammar, by Lenstriim The heat of summer also frequently com
municates adryncss to the hair, and a ten
Danish Grammar, by Lund . . . .
l)utchtGrammar, by Ahn . . ' . . . dency to fall off, which may be completely
Latin Grammar, by Seidensziicker . . obviated by the use of
Hebrew Grammar, by H8I‘Xh€lI116l' . .
The method adopted in this original Series
ROWLANIIS’ Mi-\C:\SSi\R 0IL,
of Grammars is most simple and rational, and a delightfully fragrant and transparent pre
is eminently adapted for Self-tuition, for‘ paration for the Hair, and as an invigorator
School use, and for a comparative study of and purifier beyond all precedent.
European Languages. Price 3s. 611., 7s., 10s. 6d. (equal to four
small), and double that size 21s. per Bottle.

FOREIGN DIALOGUES, Nor can we be too careful to preserve the


On an entirely new and practical plan, calcu Teeth from the deleterious effects of vegetable
acids (an immediate cause oi toothache), by
lated to insure a rapid acquisition of . a systematic employment, night and morn
Foreign Languages, l2mo. cloth. _<;_ d_
ing, of
Meissner’s German and English. . . . 2 GQ PGIGOG
I)udevant's French and English . . . . 2 I
l RDWLANIIS’ 0DON'l‘0,
Marchetti’s Italian and English . . . . 2 OR, PEARL DENTIFRICE,
S-.ilvo’s Spanish and English . . .. 2 a VVhite Powder, compounded of the choicest
Monteiro's Portuguese and English“ . . 2 and most fragrant exotics. It bestows on
Lenstriinfs Swedish and English .. 2 the 'l‘eeth a pearl-like whiteness, frees them
Lund's Danish and English, . .. .. 2 6
from Tartar, and imparts to the Gums a
Harlen’s Dutch and English . . . . . . 2 6 healthy firmness, and to the Breath a grateful
Turkish, Russian,& English Vocabulary 2 6 purity and fragrance.
German Self-Taught . . . .- . . . . 1 0
French Self-Taught .. .. .. 1 0 Price 2s. 9d. per Box.
Italian Self-Taught .. .. .. .. 1 0 sou) AT
Published by Mr. FRANZ Tnrmr, Foreign zm HATTON GARDEN;
Bookseller and Publisher, 3, Brook Street, And by Clzemists and Perfumers.
Grosvenor Square, London; and at 32, Prin
cess Street, Manchester. '5‘ Ask for BOWLAND'S Articles.
38 i 1\lURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mhy,

HANDSOME BRASS AND IRON BEDSTEADS.


EAL and SON’S SHO\V ROOMS contain a large assortment of Brass
Bedsteads, suitable both for Home use and for Troplral Climates: handsome lron Bedstearls
\\'l'.h Brass Mountings and elegantly Jspanned : plain Iron Bedsteanis for Servants; every description
of Wood Bedstend that is manufactured, in Mahogany, Birch, \'Valnut Tree \‘,V0ods, Polished Deal
and Japnnned; all fitted with Bedding and Fumiture complete, as well as every description of Bed
room Furniture.

/ A @\
E emtees-as
CONTAINS DESIGNS AND PRICES or-' 150 DIFFERENT ARTICLES
; OF BEDROOM FURNITURE, AS WELL AS OF l
1 I00 BEDSTEADS, AND PRICES OF EVERY
DESCRIPTION OF BEDDING,

DSENT FREE BY POS_T./


HEAL AND S0l\T,
\BEDSTEAD, BEDDING, AND BEDROOM
\ FURNITURE MANUFACTURERS,
p 196, TOTTENHAM -C0llR'l' RUM), /
LONDON. ~

LE SOMMIER ELASTIQUE PORTATIF.


I EAL and SON have patented a method of makinv
U
a Spring Mattress port
able. The great objection to the usual Spring Mattress is its being so heavy and cumbersome.
The ‘ Sqmmigr Elagtiqug P0rta,1;i_f' ls; made in three separate parts, and when Joined together
has all the elasticity or the best Spring Mattress. As it has no stufllng of wool or horse-hair, it can
nnr harbour moth, [0 which the usual Spring Mattress is very liable; the prices, also, are much below
muse of the best Spring Mattresses.
HEAL AND SON, 196, TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD, W.
1861. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. ' 39

JOHN SOUTHGATE;

O
: HIS REGISTERED
,l
WARDROBE PORTMANTEAU

L
Is found by every one who has used it to be the most PERFECT and usssux. of any yet invented, and
to combine all the advantages so long desired by those who travel.
Its peculiar conveniences consist in its containing ssmaars comranrusnrs or drawers for each
description of Clothes. Boots, 8zc.; each is kept. entirely distinct, and is immediately accessible on
opening the Portmanteau, without lifting or disturbing anything else.

SOUTHGATE’S FOLDING PORTMANTEAU.


Also with separate
divisions for Shirts,
Linen, Clothes, and
Boots; the whole of
which are immediately
accessible on opening
the Portmanteau. _ “

Both of these Port» ' > " ~ g


manteaus are admir
ably adapted for Con
tinental travelling on
account of the facility
they oifer for Custom
house examination,
without disarrangiug
the wardrobe.

John Southgate’s Ladies’ Portmanteaus, Ladies’ Dress and Bonnet Trunks,


Ladies’ Imperials, and Ladies’ Travelling Trunks.
All with Trays and Moveable Divisions for Bonnets, and containing every convenience for packing
separately Dresses, Bonnets, Linen, &c., and made in various styles and sizes.
They may be obtained of any Saddler or Outfitter throughout the kingdom ; and of the Manufacturer,

JOHN SOUTHG-ATE, 76, WATLING STREET, LONDON.


~i

40 MURRATS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,

ROME.
._+-___.

J. P. SHEA,
ENGLISH HOUSE-AGENT,
FORWARDING AGENT
TO THE PRINCE OF WALES.

11, PIAZZA DI SPAGNA.

Ar this Oflice persons applying for Large or Small Fur


nished Apartments invariably obtain correct and unbiassed
information on all matters connected with Lodging-Houses,
Boarding-Houses, and Household Management, while
Low and Fixed Charges for practical services offer safe
and satisfactory assistance to Proprietor and Tenant, as testi
fied by the increasing confidence of English and American
Travellers since the opening of the establishment in 1852.
Plans and Lists of Apartments sent by Post to persons
who wish to secure accommodation, or avoid inconvenience at
the approach of Carnival or the Holy Week.
MR. SHEA, being a Custom-house Agent, clears and ware
houses Baggage and other efl'ects for persons who, to avoid
the expense of quick transit, send their things by sea or
luggage-train, directed to his care, through the following,
or any other agent.

CORRESPONDENTS-—
LONDON................ ..Messrs. J. & R. M‘(‘/RACKEN, 7, Old Jewry.
Messrs. OLIVIER & CARR, 37, Finsbury Square.
DUBLIN ................ ..Messrs. O. & R. ELLIOTT.
LIVERPOOL . .....Mcssrs. O. & R. ELLIOTT, 17, Gotee Piazza.
FOLKESTONE ....... ..Mr. FAULKNER.
BOULOGNE S.M..... ..Mr. BERNARD, l8, Quai des Paqucbofs.
PARIS ................... ..Messrs. LANSING & CO., 8, Place de la Bourse.
MARSEILLES .........Mcssrs. GIRAUD FRERES, 44, Rue Sainte.
1861. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 41

PARIS
AND ALL PARTS 01-‘ THE

CONTINENT,
VIA NEWHAVEX AND DIEPPE.

LONOON, BRIGHTON, AND SOUTH OOAST


RAILWAY.

THE SHORTEST AND CHEAPEST ROUTE.

From the London Bridge and Victoria Termini.

FARES THROUGHOUT:
First Class . . . . . . . . . 28s. I Second Class . . . . . . . . 20s.
TICKETS AVAILABLE FOR FOUR DAYS.
RETURN TICKETS :
First Glass. . . . . . . . . . 50s. I Second Class . . . . . . . .36s.
AVAILABLE FOR om‘. MONTH.

FOR Times of Sailing, the Summer Tidal Service, and full particulars,
see Advertisements in ‘ Bradsha.w’s Guide for Great Britain and
Ireland;' also ‘Bradshaw's Continental Guide ;’ the ‘Times’ newspaper;
and the Time Tables of the Brzrenron AND Sonrn COAST COMPANY.
Every information may be obtained respecting this pleasant and
beautiful route, on application in London to A. D. BOSSON, 4, Arthur
Street East (opposite the Monument), London Bridge; and at the
London and Brighton Railway Oflices, London Bridge and Victoria
Termini; and at all their various Stations; also at the Compuny’s
Offices, 43, Regent Circus, Piccadilly.—In Paris, to A. D. B0ss01\',
7, Rue de la. Paix ; and at 35, Quai Henri IV., Dieppe. G '
42 M URRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,

Norwich Union
FIRE INSURANCE SOCIETY.
Instituted 1797.
DIRECTORS.
Cuanuzs Evans, Esq., President. Enwaup Srzwsnp, Esq. Vice-President. i
Gnoncn Dunnasr, Esq. Jons Wmonr, Esq. D. DALRYMPLE, Esq.
Rom-znr JOHN Hnavsr H1-zxnr Buowxi-:, Esq. M. 1).
HARVEY, Esq. W. C. Horsorz, Esq. W. R. CLARKE, Esq.
H. S. PATTESON, Esq. C. E. Tucx, Esq. G. E. Smrsox, Esq.
Secretary. —Sir SAMUEL BIGNOLD. London Agent.—C. J. Buxrox, Esq.
lxsunancns are granted by this Society on buildings, goods, merchandise, and elfects.
ships in port, harbour, or dock, from loss, or damage by fire, in any part of the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland.
lt is provided by the constitution of the Society that the Insured shall be free from all
responsibility; and to guarantee the engagements of the ofllce, a fund of £550,000 has been
subscribed by a numerous and opulent Proprietary, which fund has been further increased
by the accumulation of an additional reserve, now exceeding £100,000. Three-Fifth5_Qf
the Profits of the Company are periodically distributed as a Bonus to parties
1nguring, who have thus from time to time received from the Society sums amounting in
the aggregate to nearly £400,000,
A further sum is applicable for a. Bonus upon policies renewed in 1861,
The Rates of Premium are in no case higher than those charged by the other prmcipal
Oiiices giving no Bonus to their Insurers.
. No charge is made for the Policy or Stamp when the insurance exceeds £300.
The business of the Company exceeds ,-668,000,000, and, owing to the liberality with
which its engagements have been performed, is rapidly increasing. The Duty paid to
Government for the year 1859 was £80,639, 103, 11d,; the amount insured on Farming
Stock was £1o,149,cse.
The Norwich Union Oliice is, therefore, now third in order of magnitude among the
Fire Oflices of Great, Britain.

Norwich Union .
LIFE INSURANCE SOCIETY.
Instituted 1808. Upon the principle of Mutual Assurance.
DIRECTORS.
Jorm Wnmnr, Esq., President. - C. M. Grusox, Esq., F.R.C.S.
G. Dunasnr, Esq., Vice-President. I { . W. R. CLARKE, Esq.
Jom: HILLING Banunno, Esq. ' 5 Du. Raxxmo.
FRANK Novnamc, Esq. Jom: BARWELL, Ronsnr Frrcn, Esq.
RICHARD GRIFFIN, Esq. FRANCIS PARMETER, Esq. Rev. S. F. Bronono.
Taosus Bnnvou, Esq. R. W. H.uvxus, Esq. W. H. CLABBURN, Esq.
R. BLAKE Huurnar, Esq. G. E. Fauna, Esq., F.R.S. Tnmms Lucas, Esq.
, Dr. Goonwm. R. JOHN WRIGHT, Esq. Rev. WILLIAM \V.um.m. ,
Audi'tors.—Mr. E. WILLETT, Mr. A. BAILEY, and Mr. J. R. HARDY.
Secretary/.—Sir Sumac BIGNOLD. London Agent.-C. J. Buxrox, Esq.
The whole of the Profits belo to the Assured.
The Accumulatlons exceed £2,00 ,000,
The Income of the Society exceeds £2 ,000,
The Amount assured is upwards of £5, 78,000,
Since its commencement, 32,700 Policies have been issued, and £5,666,555 paid to the
re resentatives of 6854 deceased Members.
he Bonuses may be applied at the option of the Assured in reduction of the future
Annual Premium, or their cash value received.
One-half of the first five Annual Premiums may remain as a permanent charge upon
Polices effected for the whole duration of Life.
Annuities and special risks are undertaken upon favourable terms.
This Society is entirely distinct from the Norwich Union Fire Ofiice. The aggregate
Annual Income of the two Societies is nearly Half 3, Million sterling,
For Prospectuses apply to the Society's Offices,
6, CRESCENT‘, NEW BRIDGESTREET, BLACKFRIARS; and
SURREY S’I‘REE'l‘, NORWICH.
186}. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 43

SEASON, 1861.

The only Short Sea Route to the Continent.


SEA PASSAGE UNDER TWO HOURS.—I-‘OUR THROUGH SERVICES DAILY.
Commencement of a. Paris throughmllight Service, via Folkestone and

Boulogne, in addition to the Special Day Service.

LONDON Ami nuns in"10i nouns,


By the Accelerated Special Express Daily Direct Tidal Service,
Vid FOLKBSTONE and BOULOGNE.
snnu. non-s NEVER. usao. AN mrsnennrmo ooxnucrou.
Marseilles ................ ..in 84 hours. Switzerland [BaIe]......in 37} hours.
Bordeaux ................ .. 88 ,, Italy [Turin] .......... .. 60 ,,
_._.,_ _
A Through Night Service between London and Paris,
By the Regular Trains and Special Boats,
VIE FOLKBBTONE and BOULOGNE.
For Hours of Departure (-which are variable), qf both the above Services, lee Time Book and Bills.
PARIS RETURN TICKETS (Via Boulogne) AT REDUCED RATES.

NEW ROUTE TO GERMANY and the EAST :


London to Vienna, Pesth, Basiasch. Kustendje. Constantinople,
via COLOGNE or PARIS, SALZBURG, and MUNICH.

BELGIUM, GERMANY, HOLLAND, &c. &c.,


By the Mail Trains.
TWO SERVICES DAILY, viti Dover and Calais;
And A SERVICE EVEI-{Y NIGHT, viii Dover and Ostend.

THROUGH TICKETS ISSUED AND DAGGAGE REGISTERED (with a


free allowance of 56Ibs. each Passenger"), to and from the PRINCIPAL
CONTINENTAL CITIES AND TOWNS, in many of which there is an
Agent of the Company.
In consequence of the opening of the_Salzb'm-g Railway between Munich and Vienna,
Passengers can now be booked thronghnmi Pans, to Hfrnna; and there also, as heretofore,
-via. Cologne. Through Tickets are now, for the first time, issued to Mannheim, ('arl.sruhe,
Salzburg, Munich, Kustendje, and Ctmstarttmople, 1.-ta Paris; and to Baden-Badmi. and
Heidelberg, via Paris; as well as by the Cologne route, as formerly.

Inn rsncnns ExraEssns'ta1ve§ Parcels to ...;...iy all “Continental


Destinations, at through Rates, as quickly as the Mails.
A 71911) System of Through Rates for Parcels up to 200 lbs. u'e1'ght,via Folkesttrne and
B0ul0g1te, for Paris, Lyons, Marseilles, and other ,I:rincipaI Towns in France, from London
and the Large Towns of the United Kingdom. Ihe Parcels are also now forwarded with
" increased rapidity.
MERCHANDISE FORWARDED T0 BOULOGNE.
For all information, see Time-Book and Book of Tarifls.

PASSPOR'I‘S.—B1~itish Subjects can now enter and travel through


France without Passports.

. . Barnes1861.
Lmmovsmasou, srnrrov,
L C. W. EBORALL, General Manager.
~— v

44 MUP.RAY’s HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. my,

STEAM COMMUNICATION BETWEEN HULL AND HAMBURG.


B01611 1I‘GI'6§'0r, Knowles; Emerald I816, Foster; are intended to leave
the Humber Dock for Hamburg every Saturday evening after arrival of the 9'30 P.M.
Train, one of these Boats returning from Hamburg every Saturday night. Particulars as
to the hour of sailing from Hamburg may be learned from KIRSTEN and Co., Admirnlitnt
Strasse.
PASSAGE MONEY.—1l. 10:. First Cabin; Return Ticket, 2!. Second Cabin, 15s.;
Retum Ticket. ll. 2s. 6d. Allowingfour weeks on the Continent. Average Passage. 38 hours.
HULL AND DUNKIRK, ANII VICE VERSA.
'.l'.‘z-anslt and Gazelle, every WEDNESDAY and SATURDAY, according to Tide.
PASSAGE MONEY»-15s. First Cabin; Return Ticket ll. 2s. 6d. Average Passage,
20 hours. The very best accommodation for Passengers, Carriages, and Horses. Dunkirk
Agents. C. BOURBON and Co. For further information apply to the Agents, LOFTHOUSE,
GLOVER, and C0.-I-lull, 1st April, 1861.

GALIGNANPS WHITBvR~'$
NEW nuns GUIDE. F""“*g" P"“""'““Y» 174, Regent Street, London,
Opposite New Burlington Street.
Compiled from the best authorities, re
-
vised _ -
and venfied .
by PelS_ona‘ -
mspec t‘Ion’ IA UGUSTUS WI-IITBURN
Pharmaceutical Chemist,lateG1u<;mn
from Parig:
and arranged OH fill entirely new P13", Florence, and Rome, begs to inform English
with Map and P[ates_ Royal 18m,,_ l‘ourists returning to London from the Con
10s. 6d. bound; or without
_ Plates, 7s. 6d. I iinent.
p,-9§crip;?0,,l:m:1s
tb t' lJ' E Ricipés
mm‘ b,,’§§“p,,“,,,,e§'§,.‘,‘§§
t ll F '

bound. the greatest accuracy. General Depot of


French, Italian, and other Patent Medicines,
London: SIMPKIN, Mmsnnnn, 8: Co. Plants, and Medicinal \Vaters.

EGYPT.
ALEXANDRIA and CAIRO.
E. ST. JOHN FAIRMAN,
GENERAL AGENT, AND MERCHANT, 86C.,
Begs to place his services at the disposal of Visitors to Egypt,
AGENT FOR SEVERAL CONTINENTAL HOUSES.

Oflices in Alexand;-ia.—Next Door to the Bank of Egypt, in the street immediately


in a line with the P. and O. Co.’s Oriices. In Cairo —In the Esbekié, a few
Doors from the P. and O. Co.’s Offices.

PARIS.
Shortly, uniform with ‘ Handbook for Modern London,’

MURRAY’S HANDBOOK FOR PARIS.


BEING A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO ALL OBJECTS OF INTEREST IN
TI-IAT METROPOLIS AND ITS ENVIRONS.
With a detailed Clue Map of Paris, and Plans. Post 8V0.

JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street.


1861. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 45

DORTLELL & SON’S


PASSPORT AGENCY,
15, cnanme cnoss,
IMMEDIATELY OPPOSITE DRUMMOND'S BANK

Franch and Italian spoken, and Correspondence carried on in either Innguage.

BRITISH SUBJECTS who purpose visiting the Continent will save much
trouble and expense by obtaining their Passports and Visas through
the above Agency. N0 personal attendance is required, and persons
residing at a distance from the Metropolis may have their Passports
—with the necessary Visas—-forwarded to them through the Post.
Messrs. DORBELL and Son will send their “ Passport Prospectus,”
containing every particular in detail relating to Passports, by Post, on
application.

Passports Mounted,
and enclosed in Cases,
with the name of the delay in the frequent
Bearer impressed in ‘ examination of the
Gold on the outside;
thus aiiording security

LIST OF CHARGE S.
Foreign Oflice charge . . . . . 2/0. 1 Agents‘ charge for Passport . . . 1/0.
French Visa . . . . . - . 4/3. l _——- for each Visa . . . 1/0.
Bavarian Visa . . . . - . . 2 6. l| Pocket Case, Russia leather . . . 4/0.
Russian Visa . . . . . . . 1/7. —~k- Morocco . . . . . 2/6.
Portuguese Visa. . . . . . 4/6. —?—— Roan . . 1/6.
Sicilian Visa (Naples) '. . 4/0 Mounting the Passport on Muslln..and
TuscanVisa . . . . . . . 4/6 Lettering Case with Bearers Name 1/6.

THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY’S HANDBOOKS.


Travel Talk -— North Germany — South Gennany—- Switzerland — France —
Paris — Spain — Portugal -— Central Italy —— Rome and its Environs — North
Italy — South Italy — Egypt— Syria and Palestine — India. — Greece—
Denmark — Russia. i English Handbooks.

English and Foreign Stationery, Dialogue Books. Couriers’ Bags, Pocket


books and Purses of every description, Journal and Cash Books with Lock
and Key, Travelling Writing Cases and Inkstands, and a. variety of other
Articles useful for Travellers.

DORRELL and SON’S PASSPORT AGENCY,


15, Charing Cross, London, S.W.
46 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 1ua_§,
HQTTERDAM.
ii

Tourist’s 8c Passport Agency, H. A. KRAMERS,


e,1t0YAL EXCHANGE, LONDON, E.C. Importer of Foreign Books.
FSSRS. LETTS undertake to supply
intended Excursionlsts either through Mr. MURRAY’s ‘Handbooks for Travel
this or Foreign Countries with every informa lers,’ B.u-:01-:xm<'s ‘Reischandbiicher,' and
tion that can be of service to them on their Joanna's ‘Guides pour les Voyageurs,‘
route—reiative to times and means of Con always in Stock.
veyance, Curreucy, &c.—-and to provide “English, French, and Gennan Books im
PASSPORTS with the requisite visés with ported Weekly, and a great variety of New
the utmost promptitude and regard to eco Books kept in Store.
nomy. The Passports being mounted on
strong, thin linen, and inserted in Russia, 107. 108, VISSCHEBSDYK.
Morocco, or Roan Cases, with the Propri
etors name lettered on the outside, are ren
dered sufficiently durable to last many seasons
and facilitate their examination by the Police
TH EALPS.
autliorities TRAVELLERS to INDIA With Illustrations, post 8vo., 14s.,
or the CONTINENT Hwy be P\’<>\’i<l@d
with the Newest Editions of THE GLACIERS OF
IIIRIIATS AID BRAIISIIAVPS GUIDES,
and with the most approved Maps, as also THE ALPS.
with Dictionaries, Books of Travel-Talk, Poly Being a Narrative of Excursions
glot Washing-Books, &c.
Trustworthy Couriers will be recomnwndcd and Ascents; an Account of
by giving sufllcient notice. the Origin and Phenomena of
TOURISTS in the UNITED KINGDOM Glaciers; and an exposition of
will find the following articles extremely
valuable (many indispensable) :—
the Physical Principles to which
MAPS AND GUIDES. they are related.
by Murray, Black, Stanford, and Johnston,
for England. English Counties and Lakes,
By JOHN TYNDALL, r.n.s.,
Professor of Natural Philosophy in the Royal
Isle of Viliglit, Wales (North and South), Institution of Great Britain.
Scotland and Scotch Counties, and Ireland,
together with the beautiful series of Oun ‘ A work of sound and varied science: but
xaxcs Mars (without which no Pedestrian
should commence his tour), in neat and port- i rarely has science found a votary so bold of
heart, so agile in- hand and foot, and so dex
able Cases, from ls. each. Also LETTS’ terous with pen.’-Guardian.
series of Roan, RAILWAY, and R[\'l-‘.R Mars,
for Pedestrians through the most interesting
parts of England.
Every description of SrA'r1o.\'i-:m' required
hy the Traveller, of which the undemien With lllustrati<>n:,. crown 8vo., 18s.,
tioned may form a sample, kept in stock,
and forwarded on application : ITALIAN VALLEYS OF
.TI'(l'UCuiTlg 1)esk.s, Flexible Writing Cases,
Metallic Books, Students’ and Tourists’ Cases, THE ALPS.
Perpetual Diaries, Luggage Labels, Foreign A Tour through all the romantic
Paper (lined, waved, or quadrilled) and En
velopes, Cash Belts, Purses, Bags, Compasses, and less-frequented ‘Vals’ of
Artists’ Colours, Brushes, Paper, and other Northern Piedmont, from the
Materials.
The best selection of Stereoscopic Slides of Tarantaise to the Gries. *
all the spots most interesting to the Traveller, By Rev. 8. W. KING.
and the most scientific and compact Stereo
scope yet introduced. can be supplied to order, ‘Mr. King explored the less-frequented
or a Dozen sorted Slides forwarded upon re valleys of Northern Piedmont, and is
ceipt of Post-ofiice Order for 12s., payable to an intelligent companion, and in his tour
I|fl'I."1'S, SON’, 8|. CO" there isa great deal of agreeable reading.
8, ROYAL EXCHANGE, LONDON, E.C., He has gone into regions comparatively un
Stationers, Travelling Desk Manufacturers, known, and retumed laden with spoiL We
Lithographers, and Agents to H.M. Board of l thank him for his pictures of snowy Alps,
Ordnance and the Geological Society. and mighty glaciers, and thundering ava
Illustrated Catalogues of Ordnance and other lanches.’-Daily News.
Maps, Guides, and Atlases, forwarded per return 0!
P°"~ "P011 receipt of Ono Postage Stamp. JOHN MURRAY, ALBEXARLE STREET.
I
l
——Iiu *"‘ "*" w-.-—~ _..

1861. .\iURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 47

GEOLOGY AN D M I NERALOGY.
KNOWLEDGE of these interesting branches of Science adds greatly to the
pleasure oi’-the traveller in all parts oi‘ the world, and may lead to important discoveries.
Mr. TENNANT, Mineralogist to Her Majesty, 149, Srnaxb, gives Practical Instruction
to Travellers, in iillruziuwcr and Gnosocr. He can supply Geological Maps, Hummers,
Magnifying Glasses, Acid Bottles, Microscopic Objects, Biowpipes, and all the recent Works
on Mineralogy, Conchology, Chemistry, Botany, and Geology; also Models oi Crystals.
Elementary Oollections of Minerals, Rocks, and Fossils, at Two, Five, Ten, Twenty, Fifty,
and Oue Hundred Guineas each. -
A Collection for Five Guineas, which will illustrate the recent works on Geology by Lyell,
Ansted, Msntell, and others, contains 200 Specimens, in a plain Mahogany Cabinet, with
five Trays, comprising the following specimens, viz. :—
MINERAIS which are either the components of Rocks, or occasionally embedded in them :
Quartz, Agate, Chalcedony, Jasper, Gamet, Zeolite, Hornblende, Auglte. Asbestns, Felspar,
Mica, Talc, Tourmaline, Calcareous Spar, Fluor, Selenite, Baryta, Strontis, Salt, Cryolite,
Sulphur, Plumbago, Bitumen, Jet. Amber, &c.
NATIVE METALS, or Mi'}'l‘ALl.lFl-JROUS IWINERALS: these are found in masses or
beds, in veins, and occasionally in the beds of rivers. Specimens of the following metallic
ores are put in the Cabinet; iron, Manganese, Lead, Tin, Zinc, Copper, Antimony, Silver,
Gold, Platina, &c.
ROCKS: Granite, Gneiss, Mica-slate, Clay-slate, Porphyry, Serpentine, Sandstones, Lime
stones. Basalt, Lavas, &c.
PALA-IOZOIC FOSSIIS tom the Llandeilo, Wenlock, Ludlow, Devonian, and Carboni
ferous Rocks.
SECONDARY FOSSIIB from the liias, Oolite. Wealden. and Cretaceous Groups.
crTEl;TIARY FOSSILS from the Woolwich, Barton, and Brackiesham Beds, London-clay,
sg, c.
In the more expensive collections some oi‘ the specimens are rare, and all more seltct.
Mr. Tnrmsur has on sale the Duke oi‘ Buckinglmm's Collection of Minerals from Stowe.
It contains upwards of 3000 specimens, and has been greatly enriched since the purchase
by s collection of coloured Diamonds, Australian Gold, &c. Price 2000 guineas.
J. TENNANT, Geologist, No. 149, Strand, London, \V. C.

1Vl'lI'.'BR.AY’S
HANDBOOKS FOR ENGLAND.
1. MODERN LONDQN, A COMPLETE Gums 1-"on
Srrmnonns TO THE METROPOLIS. Map. 16mo. 5s. *

F1 KENT AND SUSSEX, Map. Post 8vo. 10s.

m. SURREY, HANTS, and ISLE of WIGHT.


Map. Post Svo. 7s. 6d.

IV WILTS, DORSET, AND SOMERSET.


Map. Post Svo. 7s. 6d.

v- DEVON AND CORNWALL. Maps Post


8vo. 7s. Gd.

vr. BUCKS, OXFORDSHIRE, AND BERKS.


Map. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d.

VII-. v1II- NORTH AND SOUTH WALES.


Maps. 2 vols. Post Bvo.
~

48 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. INT:1 _v

ICELAND.
-Z-¢_i...

This day, with Map and numerousflllustrations, Post 8vo., 14s.

THE VOLOANOES, GEYSERS, AND GLAOIERS


OF. IOELAND. '
BY COMMANDER S. C. FORBES, RN.
‘Capt. Forbes's book upon Iceland has more ‘ man. Here is a fine field for our Alpine
than the usual interest attaching to the ad climbers/—John Bull.
ventures of British travellers in this marvel ‘Capt. Forbes heartily enjoyed his trip to
lous island; for the author remained in it for Iceland, and we have heartily enjoyed his
several weeks.’—7‘imes. book/—Spectat0r.
‘Captain Forbes has thrown a new light ‘ An agreeable volume. By meting out
around the northern island, and has found science, history, legend, and literature, and
materials there for a most spirited and enter personal adventure, in fair and nearly
taining book of travel. A portion of this 1_ equal portions, Captain Forbes has consulted
range of ice mountains has never, Captain the general taste, and rendered himself an
Forbes avers, been trodden by the foot of A acceptable companion.’—Athena2um.

LETTERS FROM NIGH LATITUDES.


BEING SOME ACCOUNT OF A YACHT VOYAGE TO ICELAND, JAN MAYEN,
AND SPITZBERGEN. ‘

.’ ' BY 1.0111) IDUFFERIN.


Second Edition. With Woodcuts. Crown Octavo. 9s.‘
‘ It is not often that we find as much diili- | ‘Lord Dufi'erin’s most charming book is the
culty in laying down a book of travels as if it account of a voyage made by the “ Foam," a
were a romance, but this has been the case 1 schooner yacht of eighty-five tons, from Fal
with this volume. The traveller here was mouth, by way of the Hebrides, round Ice
judicious in the choice of a strange and peril land. along the line of eternal congelation,
ous route—a refreshing contrast to the mo almost to the limits of the habitable world at
notonous fair-weather voyages of ordinary‘ Spitzbergen. Illustrated as it is, the volume
yachtsmen—happy in his companions, his is at once valuable and fascinating. . It has
weather, and his incidents; fortunate in all the cheerfulness of a salt-water chronicle,
reaching his bourne, and still more fortunate mingled with graphic landscape sketching
in returning-above all, the right man on the and notes, which justify us in crediting Lord
right track; full of fun and frolic, andwith a Dufferln with some of the highest qualities of
‘very striking capacity for exhibiting the high a traveller.’—Lau1er. ' '
talents and taste he inherlted.’— Times.

HANDBOOK FOR RUSSIA, FINLAND, & IOELAND.


Maps. Post 8vo. 12s.

JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.


— —--—--—r~w-v

_1fl6l. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEl€'l‘lSER. 49

MUNICH.

THE FOUR SEASIDNS HGTEL,


N0. 2, MAXIMILIANS STRASSE.
',' The Maximilian Street, which is new being built at the express commands of His
Majesty the King of Bavaria. will after its completion be one of the finest streets in Ger
many, both for its magnificent and grand Buildings, as well as for its beautiful ornamental
Promenades.

AUGUST SGHIMON, Proprietor.


r\/\r\/\/\I\ I\f\/\/]

THIS spacious new Hotel, situated in the most healthy part of the
town, has been recently constructed and elegantly furnished in the
newest and most fashionable style by the present proprietor, who will
spare no effort to promote the comforts and satisfaction of those who
may do him the honour of frequenting his Hotel. The Hotel is situ
ated. in the most central part of the town, and near to the Royal Palace,
the Royal Theatres, and the Post-oflice. The Hotel contains 120 large
and small Apartments, all of them having the view of the above-men
tioned handsome Street on the south side; together with two large
Dining Saloons, Coffee-rooms, Smoking-rooms, and Billiard Tables.

The lovers of News will find at the Reading-rooms belonging to the


Hotel (where smoking is not permitted) the best German, French,
English, American, and Italian Newspapers and Periodical Literature.

HOT AND COLD BATHS ALWAYS READY.

ELEGANT CARRIAGES ON HIRE.

An Omnibus from the Hotel attends the arrival of the Trains.

A. Fixed Charge for Attendance.

'l‘he Hotel was opened on the 1st of July, 1858.


E
50 MURR.-\Y’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISE.T{, May, I

London and South-Western Railway. ‘


LONDON STATION, WATERLO0 BRIDGE. ‘ l
PARIQ,
Vid SOUTHAMPTON and HAVRE.
The Cheapest Route.
FARES THROUGHOUT—-FIRST CLASS, 28/0; SECOND CLASS 20/O.
RETURN TICKETS (available for one month)—FIRb'T CLASS, 50/0;
SECOND CLASS, 36/O.
For times of sailing, see The Times Newspaper daily.
Oflces-—Waterloo Bridge Station—No. 53, King William Street, City—Universal Oflice,
Regent Circus -—N0. 2l6, Oxford Street (West)—(iolden Cross, Cimring Cr0ss—Swan-Two
Necks, Gresham Street, London.—Southampton, Railway Stati0n.—Hsvre, 47, Grand
Qusi.——-Paris, 3, Place Vendome, or 30, Rue Bergere.

JERSEY AND GUERNSEY,


MAIL SERVICE,
Vid SO UTHAMPTON
Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday.
FARES THROUGHOUT, 31/0 Fmsr, or 21/0 Snconn Cures.
RETURN 'l‘ICKE'I‘S, 45/0 FIRST, or 35/0 Sncoxn Cmss, available for
one Month.
The Last Train from London is at 8.30 p/m.
Oflicos as above.
Jsnsn AGENT, Mr. G. H. Millais. GUERNSEY Asnm, Mr. J. B. Bar-hat.

THE ART OF TRAVEL.


i.g_._.
Now Ready, Third Edition, revised and enlarged, with many additional Woodcuts.
Post 8vo. 7s. 60!.
INT S on the SHIFTS and CONTRIVANCES available
in WILD COUNTRIES. By FRANCIS GALTON, Author of ‘ The Nar
rative of‘ an Explorer in Tropical South Africa.’
‘ Mr. Gait/on's handbook might prove n. friend in need, even in sn old traveller, while to a
young one, who intends to venture beyond railways, it must be vsluuble.'—Athemzum.
' Mr. Gslton has collected much valuable and practical information. His own experience
has supplied the subslunoe of the book, while he has extracted from the works of travellers
in every climate and region materials which add to its usefulness. For travellers the book
{)\"‘iL|khs?‘\fiL:‘l;€_;:"Ily&l'IG8‘:lzi,et\£:‘lll(-3, and will be found a useful supplement to Murray's Hund

JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.


1861. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 51

BONN ON THE RHINE.

MR. SOHMITZ,
PROPRIETOR OF THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL,

BEGs leave to recommend his Hotel to English Travellers. The apart


ments are furnished throughout in the English style; the rooms are
carpeted; and the attendance, as well as the kitchen and the wine
cellar, is well provided. MR. SCHMITZ begs to add that at no first
rate Hotel on the Rhine will be found more moderate charges and more
cleanliness.
The STAR HOTEL has been honoured by the visits of the following
Members of the English Royal Family :—
H. R. H. the Prince of WALEs, accompanied by General Sir W. C0DRING'roN,
1857. Oct. 16 Colonel PoNsoNBY, Sir Frederic STANLEY, Dr. ARMSTRONG, Rev. F. C.
TARVER, Mr. GIBBs, etc.
1857 Au 20 {H. R. H. the Prince of WAI.Es and his Suite paying a visit at the Golden
' 3' Star Hotel to His Majesty the King of the BELGIANB.
1857. Aug. 8 H. R. H. the Prince of WALES and his Suite.
1857 July 29 {T. R. H. the Duchess of CAMBRIDGE and Princess MARY of CAMBRIDGE,
° accompanied by the Baron KNESEBE(1K and Suite.
1857 Jul 29 H. R. H. the Prince of WALES paying a visit at the Golden Star Hotel to
' y T. R. H. the Duchess of CAMBRIDGE and Princess MARY of CAMBRIDGE.
H. R. H. the Prince of WALEs, accompanied by the Right Honourable C.
1857. July 15 { GREY, General MA.IoR, Colonel PoNs0NBr, Sir Frederic STANLEY, Dr.
ARMBTRDNG. Rev. F. C. TABVER, Mr. G1BBs, etc.
1856 Nov H. R. H. Prince ALFRED of GREAT BRITAIN, accompanied by Lieutenant
‘ ° ‘ General Sir Frederick STOVIN and Lieutenant CowE1.L.
H. M. ADELAIDE, QUEEN DowAGER or GREAT BRITAIN, accompanied by
His Highness Prince EDWARD of SAxE WEIMAR, Lord and Lady BAR
l846. June 18 RING'roN, Sir DAvID DAVIES, M.D., Rev. J. R. WO0D, M.A., Captain
TAYLOR, &c. 8::-.., honoured the above establishment with a TIIREE
Dave’ VIsI'I'.
1818. May . . H. R. H. the Duke of CAMBRIDGE and Suite.
1825. March {H. R. H. the Duke and Duchess of CLARENCE (King VVILLIAM IV. and
and Sept. . Queen ADELAIDE) and Suite.
1834 July H. M. QUEEN ADELAIDE, accompanied by the Earl and Countess of ERRGL,
' ' ' Earl and Countess of DENBIGII, Earl and Countess HowE, &c.
I836. Aug. . H. R. H. the Duchess of GLOUCESTER and Suite.
1837. July . . H. R. H. the Duchess of CAMBRIDGE and Suite.
1839. Nov. . H. R. H. the Prince GEoRGE of CAMBRIDGE and Suite.
_ Nov
‘ -i
H. R. H. Prince ALBERT of SAXE CoBIJRG GOTHA, accompanied by Prince
ERNEST of SAXE CoBuRG GOTHA, and their Suite. -
H. R. H. the Duchess of CAMBRIDGE, accompanied by the Princess AUGUSTA.
of CAMBRIDGE, and their Suite.
1841.
1840.
1841.

.0 .. ..
.
.
.
.
-i
. .
. .
H. R. H. the Duchess of KENT and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. the
- _
Prince of LEIEIN-GEN.
H. R. H. the Duchess of CAMBRIDGE and Suite.
H. R. H. Princess CAROLINA of CAMBRIDGE.
1844. . . . . H. R. H. the Duchess of CAMBRIDGE and Suite.
— . . . H. R. H. Princess MARY of CAMBRIDGE.
1845 June

1847. July
-i
.{
H. R. H. the Duchess of KEM and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. the
Prince of LEININGEN.
T. R. .the Duke and Duchess of CAMBRIDGE, with their Family and
Su te.
52 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. l'Vlay(,l-14' '

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