Senior High School

Needle Craft
Quarter 1 - Module 1
Hairdressing II
What I Need to Know
At the end of this module, you should be able to:

1. Fundamentals in hair coloring and hair bleaching (TLE_HEHD9-12CB-Ia-b-1)

1.1 Perform preliminary steps on hair coloring
1.2 Use tested products, implements and supplies
1.3 Classify various hair coloring
1.4 Describe various types of hair coloring application
1.5 Conduct scalp and hair analysis
1.6 Identify the effects of allergies and hair treatment to hair coloring activity
1.7 Perform skin test/patch test carefully
1.8 Discuss hair coloring applications
1.9 Explain dimensional highlighting
2. Prepare client (TLE_HEHD9-12CB-Ic-f-2)
2.1 Consult and advise client on color options, and checked for possible skin allergies
2.2 Check and analyse condition of the hair and scalp. Prepare and use protective clothing
and materials according to OH & S requirements
2.3 Drape client following established procedures to avoid stains from hair coloring
2.4 Where necessary, shampoo client’s hair to remove remaining conditioners and styling
products, making sure the scalp is not scratched
2.5 Style where necessary, hair according to client’s particular requirements
2.6 Ensure client’s safety and comfort during he activity
3. Apply hair color (TLE_HEHD9-12CB-Ic-f-3)
3.1 Prepare and use tools, materials, implements following OH & S requirements
3.2 Select and mix color and developer according to client’s hair condition and length and
desired outcome
3.3 Apply color according to product specifications and established or acceptable
procedures
3.4 Style where necessary, hair according to client’s particular requirements

What I Know
Multiple Choice. Select the letter of the best answer from among the given choices.
1. _____________is the ability of the hair to stretch and return to its original length without
breaking.
A. texture C. porosity
B. elasticity D. growth
2. The test to find out whether the patron’s skin reacts to chemicals in the permanent
coloring you are going to used is called __________.
A. patch test C. porosity test
B. strand test D. color test
3. The test during processing, to check progress of color is referred to as ____________.
A. porosity test C. strand test
B. elasticity test D. patch test
4. The types of hair coloring which do not penetrate the hair cuticle and remains for the hair
only until they are washed off is called ____________.
A. temporary hair color C. permanent coloring
B. semi-permanent coloring D. vegetable coloring

5. An aniline derivative tint should not be used if the following condition is recognized except
one.
A. Signs of positive skin test. C. Signs of negative skin test
B. Contagious scalp or hair disorders. D. Scalp irritation or eruption.
What I Need to Know
Fundamentals in hair coloring and hair bleaching (TLE_HEHD9-12CB-Ia-b-1)
1.1 Perform preliminary steps on hair coloring
1.2 Use tested products, implements and supplies
1.3 Classify various hair coloring
1.4 Describe various types of hair coloring application
1.5 Conduct scalp and hair analysis
1.6 Identify the effects of allergies and hair treatment to hair coloring activity
1.7 Perform skin test/patch test carefully
1.8 Discuss hair coloring applications
1.9 Explain dimensional highlighting
What’s In

After dealing with the assessment of the patron’s hair, hair cutting needs, the
appropriate reception to be extended, the analysis of the hair condition, texture, density and
length, and the proper protective clothing materials to be used in Hairdressing I, you are now
ready to know what are the proper procedure in hair coloring.

What’s New

One of the most creative, challenging, and popular salon services is hair coloring.
Nearly all adults and many teens now color their hair. You will probably find that most of your
clients, at some time or another, will want to enhance their hair color, change their hair color, or
cover gray. The increasing demands and expectations of clients have made coloring, and in
particular special color effects, the ‘must have’ of hairdressing. With these reasons, it is a must
that you will know the fundamentals in hair coloring and hair bleaching.

What Is It
To ensure successful results when performing hair coloring services, the colorist must
follow a prescribed procedure. A clearly defined system makes for the greatest efficiency, and
the safest and most satisfactory results. Without such a plan, the work will take longer, results
will be uneven, and mistakes may be made.

LESSON 1.1: PRELIMINARY STRAND TEST PROCEDURE

1. Mix equal parts of color selected to oxidizing solution.

2. Apply mixture to the full length of dry hair strand. Retain it on the hair until the desired shade
is developed and/or achieved.
3. Wash, dry and examine the hair strand. Proceed with the coloring if the results are
satisfactory.

LESSON 1.2: USE TESTED PRODUCTS, IMPLEMENTS AND SUPPLIES

Select appropriate products, tools and equipment for hair coloring service:
 Learners must organize all products, tools and equipment in advance, making provision
for a diverse range of client’s requirements.

 The coloring products should be in good condition and appropriate for the coloring and
lightening service

 Learners must ensure tools are placed in logical order for use on a clean towel or
disposable towel to prevent cross-infection

 Learners must ensure that any equipment used for the hair coloring service is ready for
service and in working order
Tools and equipment used for coloring service to include
- Cutting comb, pin tail comb, wide tooth comb, brush, sectioning clips, plastic bowl, plastic
brush, electric accelerator (if required), measuring jugs/scales, foil, meche. Any electrical
equipment identified for accelerating the color or lightening product and the finishing service
must be prepared safely and turned on only when appropriate.

Measuring flasks and mixing bowls – measuring hydrogen peroxide at any strength must be
accurate; the amount used in relation to color is a critical factor to successful outcome. All gel
and cream colors, when mixed, will be stiff enough not to run or drip when either on the brush
or on the hair.

Brushes – used to distribute color evenly and accurately on the hair; these must be thoroughly
washed and sterilized between clients.

Sectioning clips – these are used to section the hair to make applying the color easier; they
also prevent different sections of hair touching once the color has been applied.

Barrier cream – used as a physical barrier to prevent staining around the client’s face/hairline.
Also, particularly useful if client has any general sensitivity to chemicalbased products.

Disposable vinyl gloves – It is recommended as best practice to wear a glove of 30cm in

length to offer protection to the wrist area.

Towels and gowns – each client must have a fresh, clean towel and gown. These should be
washed on a suitable (washing machine) wash programme at 60°C to remove any soiling or
staining and to prevent the spread of infection by killing any bacteria. Fabric conditioners may
be used to provide a luxurious softness and freshness. Most salons have special ‘color-proof’
gowns for coloring and lightening processes. These gowns are resistant to staining and are
made from finely woven synthetic materials that will stop color spillages from getting through
onto the client’s skin or clothes.

LESSON 1.3: TYPES OF HAIR COLORING

The four most common classifications are permanent, demi-permanent (sometimes called
deposit only), semi-permanent, and temporary.

LESSON 1.4: DESCRIBE VARIOUS TYPES OF HAIR COLORING APPLICATION

1. Permanent hair color- Changes existing hair color. It covers gray and creates bright or
natural-looking hair color changes. Permanent colors are made in a wide variety of
 shades and tones. They can cover white and natural colored hair to produce a range of
natural, fashion and fantasy shades. Hydrogen peroxide is mixed with permanent color.
This oxidizes the hair’s natural pigments and joins the small synthetic pigments
together with the natural ones in a process called polymerization. The hair will then
retain the color permanently in the cortex. Colored hair will gradually grow out as new
hair growth shows the natural hair color. Hair in poor condition, however, may not hold
the color and coloring could result in patchy areas and color

2. Demi permanent color- Blends gray hair It enhances natural color, refreshes faded
color and serves as filler in color correction. It is also called tone-on-tone colors; these
will gradually wash/fade and grow out of the hair

3. Semi-permanent color- Introduces a client to hair color services. It adds subtle color
results. Semi-permanent colors contain pigments which are deposited in the hair cuticle
and outer cortex. No developer/oxidizers are required. The color gradually fades each
time hair is shampooed. The color will last 6 – 8 washes or longer depending on the
porosity of the hair.

4. Temporary color- Creates fun, bold results and easily shampoos from the hair.
Neutralizes yellow hair. This is available in the form of lotions, creams, mousses, gels,
lacquers, sprays, crayons, chalks, paints, mascaras and glitter dust. On hair in good
condition these do not penetrate the hair cuticle, nor do they directly affect the natural
hair color: they simply sit on the cuticle until washed off.

1.5 SCALP AND HAIR ANALYSIS

All successful salon services must begin with a thorough analysis of the condition of the
client’s scalp and client’s hair type. Knowing the client’s scalp condition and the client’s hair
type allows you to prepare and make decisions about the results that can be expected from the
service.
Hair analysis is performed by observation using the senses of sight, touch, hearing, and
smell. The four most important factors to consider in hair analysis are texture, density, porosity,
and elasticity. Other factors that you should also be aware of are growth pattern and dryness
versus oiliness.

Texture
Hair texture is the thickness or diameter of the individual hair strand. Hair texture can be
classified as coarse, medium, or fine and can vary from strand to strand on the same person’s
head.

Coarse Hair Medium Hair Fine Hair

 Coarse hair texture has the largest diameter. It is stronger than fine hair, for the same
reason that a thick rope is stronger than a thin rope. It is often more resistant to
processing than medium or fine hair, so it usually requires more processing when you
are applying products such as hair lighteners, hair colors, permanent waving solutions,
and chemical hair relaxers.
 Medium hair texture is the most common texture and is the standard to which other hair
is compared. Medium hair does not pose any special problems or concerns.

 Fine hair has the smallest diameter and is more fragile, easier to process, and more
susceptible to damage from chemical services than coarse or medium hair.
As with hair cuticle analysis, hair texture can be determined by feeling a single dry strand
between the fingers. Take an individual strand from four different areas of the head—front
hairline, temple, crown, and nape— and hold each strand securely with one hand while feeling
it with the thumb and forefinger of the other hand. With a little practice, you will be able to feel
the difference between coarse, medium, and fine hair.

Density
Hair density measures the number of individual hair strands on 1 square inch (2.5
square centimeters) of scalp. It indicates how many hairs there are on a person’s head. Hair
density can be classified as low, medium, or high (also known as thin, medium, or thick/dense).
Hair density is different from hair texture—individuals with the same hair texture can have
different densities. Some individuals may have coarse hair texture (each hair has a large
diameter), but low hair density (a low number of hairs on the head). Others may have fine hair
texture (each hair has a small diameter), but high hair density (a high number of hairs on the
head).

Porosity
Hair porosity is the ability of the hair to absorb moisture. The degree of porosity is
directly related to the condition of the cuticle layer. You can check porosity on dry hair by taking
a strand of several hairs from four different areas of the head (front hairline, temple, crown, and
nape). Hold the strand securely with one hand while sliding the thumb and forefinger of the
other hand from the end to the scalp. If the hair feels smooth and the cuticle is compact, dense,
and hard, it is considered resistant. If you can feel a slight roughness, it is considered porous. If
the hair feels very rough, dry, or breaks, it is considered highly porous and may have been over
processed.

Elasticity
Hair elasticity is the ability of the hair to stretch and return to its original length without
breaking. Hair elasticity is an indication of the strength of the side bonds that hold the hair’s
individual fibers in place. Check elasticity on wet hair by taking an individual strand from four
different areas of the head (front hairline, temple, crown, and nape). Hold a single strand of wet
hair securely and try to pull it apart. If the hair stretches and returns to its original length without
breaking, it has normal elasticity. If the hair breaks easily or fails to return to its original length,
it has low elasticity.

Other Factors in Performing Scalp and Hair Analysis:

1. Hair Growth Patterns
Hair growth patterns are important to identify and consider, especially when preparing
to shape and style the hair. During your hair analysis, you should identify any and all hair
growth patterns and take them into consideration when creating the overall look, haircut or
hairstyle the client wants to achieve. Hair follicles that grow out of the head at a perpendicular,
90-degree angle or in a straight direction from the head may cause the following growth
patterns to result:
 A hair stream is hair flowing in the same direction, resulting from follicles sloping in the
same direction. Two streams flowing in opposite directions from the head form a natural
part in the hair.
 A whorl (WHORL) is hair that forms in a circular pattern, as on the crown of the head. A
whorl normally forms in the crown with all the hair from that point growing down.
 A cowlick (KOW-lik) is a tuft of hair that stands straight up. Cowlicks are usually more
noticeable at the front hairline but they may be located anywhere on the head.

2. Dry Hair and Scalp

Dry hair and scalp can be caused by inactive sebaceous glands. These conditions are
aggravated by excessive shampooing or by a dry climate. The lack of natural oils (sebum)
leads to hair that appears dull, dry, and lifeless. Dry hair and scalp should be treated with
products that contain moisturizers and emollients. People with dry hair and scalp should avoid
frequent shampooing, along with the use of strong soaps, detergents, or products with a high
alcohol content because these products could aggravate existing conditions. Dry hair should
not be confused with overly porous hair that has been damaged by thermal styling, chemical
services, or environmental conditions.
3. Oily Hair and Scalp
Oily hair and scalp, characterized by a greasy buildup on the scalp and an oily coating
on the hair, are caused by improper shampooing or overactive sebaceous glands. Oily hair and
scalp can be treated by properly washing with a normalizing shampoo. A well balanced diet,
exercise, regular shampooing, and good personal hygiene are essential to controlling oily hair
and scalp.

LESSON 1.6: SKIN IRRITATION AND ALLERGY IN HAIR COLORING ACTIVITY

In certain individuals, the use of hair coloring can result in allergic reaction and/or skin
irritation. Symptoms of these reactions can include redness, sores, itching, burning sensation
and discomfort. If any of these symptoms occur, alert your hair colorist immediately so that they
can remove the color. Symptoms will sometimes not be apparent immediately following the
application and processing of the tint, but can also arise after hours or even a day later. To help
prevent or limit allergic reactions, the majority of hair color products recommend that the client
conduct a patch test before using the product. This involves mixing a small quantity of tint
preparation and applying it directly to the skin for a period of 48 hours. If irritation develops,
manufacturers recommend that the client not use the product. A skin patch test is advised
before the use of every coloring process, since allergies can develop even after years of use
with no reaction.

LESSON 1.7: SKIN TEST/ PATCH TEST

A patch test, also known as predisposition test, is a test for identifying a possible allergy
in a client. The color used for the patch test must be the same as the color that will be used for
the hair color service. A negative skin test will show no sign of inflammation and indicates that
the color may be safely applied. A positive result will show redness and a slight rash or welt. A
client with these symptoms is allergic, and under no circumstances should she receive a hair
color service with the hair color tested.

LESSON 1.8: HAIR COLORING APPLICATIONS

Temporary Color
- Large molecules do not penetrate cuticle.
- Color coats the shaft only; creates a physical change in the
hair.
- Process is good for neutralizing unwanted tones. - These are
available in
• Color rinses
• Colored mousses and gel
• Hair mascara
• Spray-on hair color
• Color-enhancing shampoos

Semi-permanent Hair color

- Lasts through several shampoos
- Partially penetrate hair shaft
- Diffuses out of hair during shampooing
- No regrowth maintenance
- Formulated with ammonia
- Can be used right out of the bottle
- After rinse, can be used to prevent fading

Demi permanent Hair color

- Is similar to semi-permanent but long lasting
- Can penetrate hair shaft
- Is deposit-only; no lifting power
- Has smaller pigment molecules
- Gives vivid color results
- Causes little to no damage
- Has low to no ammonia
 - Is ideal for covering unpigmented hair
- Requires a patch test

Permanent Hair color

- Mixed with a developer and remains in the hair permanently
- Best for covering gray hair
- Contains ammonia, oxidative tints, and peroxide
- Requires a patch test
- Contains aniline derivatives, very small compounds that penetrate
the hair shaft
- Aniline derivatives, combined with H2O2 penetrate the cortex
- Color cannot be shampooed out
- This simultaneously removes natural pigment while adding artificial
color.

LESSON 1.9: DIMENSIONAL HIGHLIGHTING

Highlighting involves coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add a
variety of lighter shades and the illusion of depth. Subtle highlights do not contrast strongly with
the natural color. Light colors cause the light area to advance toward the eye, to appear larger,
and to make details more visible.
When the hair is decolorized to the desired level during a highlighting service, the use
of a toner may not be necessary. However, the use of a pale soft blond with cool or warm tones
does create a finished appearance to the overall color result. When using a toner on
highlighted hair, it is important to consider not only the varying degrees of porosity in the hair,
but also the difference in pigmentation from strand to strand that was created by the lightening
process. Although an oxidative toner will add color to the highlighted strands, it might also
cause a slight amount of lift to the natural or pigmented hair. Perform a strand test to ensure
best results.

To avoid affecting the untreated hair, choose from the following options:
• A nonoxidative toner, which contains no ammonia, requires no developer (thus
producing no lift of the natural hair color) and is gentle on the scalp and hair.
• Semipermanent color may be used to deposit color without lift. Select a color that is
delicate enough to avoid overpowering the prelightened hair. Always check the manufacturer’s
color chart
to make sure that the combination of your chosen toner and the contributing pigment will
produce the desired color results.
• A demipermanent haircolor may also be used to deposit color. It will not cause
additional lightening and lasts longer than temporary or traditional semipermanent colors.

What’s More
Research more about the effects of allergies in hair coloring. Paste at least 10 pictures in a
short bond paper.

What I Have Learned

Direction: Read and answer the following questions. Explain your answer in 3-5 sentences.
You can use a separate sheet of paper to write your answer.

1. Why it is important to perform of skin test/patch test?

2. Enumerate the factors to be considered in scalp and hair analysis.
3. What are the effects of allergies in hair coloring?

What I Can Do
Give some helpful tips when you do hair coloring procedure. Provide pictures in every tips.
What I Need to Know

Prepare client (TLE_HEHD9-12CBB-Ie-f-2)

2.1 Consult and advise client on color options, and checked for possible skin allergies.
2.2 Check and analyze condition of the hair and scalp. Prepare and use protective
clothing and materials to OH & S requirements.
2.3 Drape clients following established procedures to avoid stains from hair coloring.
2.4 Where necessary, shampoo client’s hair to remove remaining conditioners and
styling products, making sure the scalp is not scratched.
2.5 Style where necessary, hair according to client’s particular requirements 2.6
Ensure client’s safety and comfort during the activity.

What’s In

In the previous lesson, you are able to know the fundamentals in hair coloring and hair
bleaching. You are able to perform the preliminary steps on hair coloring, use tested products,
implements and supplies, classify various hair coloring, describe various types of hair coloring
application, conduct scalp and hair analysis, identify the effects of allergies and their treatment
to hair coloring activity, perform skin test/patch test carefully, discuss hair coloring applications
and explain dimensional highlighting. In this lesson, you will be able to know how to prepare
client in performing hair coloring.

What’s New

This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitude in preparing the client and
applying hair color. This also involves actual preparation of the patron prior to treatment, the
actual applications of color and post color activity.

What Is It

LESSON 2.1: CONSULT AND ADVISE CLIENT

How to assess the patron’s personal needs:

• Discuss with the patron his/her preferences, what is his/her expectation after hair
coloring service.
• Make the patron aware of his/her limitation then give suggestion on what color or
product would best suit his/her.
• Examine the patron’s type of hair and skin color.
• Help client decide on his/her choice by showing his/her catalogues, magazines, and
guides on hair coloring fashion.

Ways of receiving a client/patron

Be sure that each client/patron is accorded the due respect courtesies and pleasant greetings
to make his/her feel the warm welcome from the salon.

LESSON 2.2: EXAMINING SCALP AND HAIR

Examine patron’s hair and scalp to determine if it is safe to use an aniline (a product of
coal tar used in the manufacturing of artificial dyes) derivative tint.
An aniline derivative tint should not be used if the following condition is recognized:
 Signs of positive skin test.
 Contagious scalp or hair disorders.
 Scalp irritation or eruption.
 Presence of metallic or compound dyes.
Basic Rules for Color Section
1. Perform a skin test before hair coloring. 2. For color observation, the
client’s/patron’s hair should be clean and dry.
3. Use a color chart to show the product’s range of colors, their names and numbers. 4.
Compare the patron’s hair with the shade that is closer to the chart.

Skin test/ Patch test Procedure:

1. Select test area.
2. Wash test area with mild soap and water.
3. Dry test area with absorbent cotton or a clean towel.
4. Prepare the test solution.
5. Apply test solution to the test area.
6. Leave it uncovered for 24 hours.
7. Examine the test area for either a negative or positive reactions.

 A negative skin test shows no sign of inflammation.

 A positive skin test is recognized by redness, swelling, burning, itching. Blisters or
eruptions.

Strand Test Procedure

1. Mix equal parts of color selected to oxidizing solution.
2. Apply mixture to full length of a dry hair strand. Retain it on the hair until the desired
shade is developed and/or achieved.
3. Wash, dry and examine the hair strand. Proceed with the coloring if the results are
satisfactory.

LESSON 2.3: DRAPING

• The drape serves to protect the client from infections and

contagious disease, and protect the clients clothing
• Comfort and protection of the client must always be considered
during cosmetology services

The following instructions are important before draping a client for any type of service:
o Prepare materials and supplies for the service o Sanitize hands
o Ask the client to remove all neck and hair jewelry and store it away o
Remove objects from the client’s hair o Turn the client’s collar to the
inside o Proceed with the appropriate draping method

Purpose of Neck Strip

- A neck strip or towels are used for sanitary reasons, to prevent
contact of the cape with the client’s skin.
-
-
Draping for Wet Hair Services
 Towel-Drape-Towel
- Plastic drape is used
• Drape for haircut- Nylon drape is used
- A neck strip is used for a haircut
- This allows he hair to fall naturally without obstruction

Draping for Chemical Service

- Hair color, perms and relaxers require a chemical drape.
- Towel-Drape-Towel
- Plastic drape is used

Drape for dry hair services

• Neck strip- Nylon drape
- Brushing & thermal services
• Neck Strip- comb out cape
- Styling of hair

Towel Plastic Drape Over towel Towel Over Drape

LESSON 2.4: SHAMPOOING

- the action of shampooing cleanses the hair by removing dirt, grease, skin scale, sweat
and product build-up, leaving the hair ready for blow-drying, setting or chemical
services.

Procedure

Step 1- Ensure your client is wearing the correct personal protective

equipment: a gown and a towel to protect their clothing. Detangle the hair
before you begin. Analyze the hair and scalp to make the correct product
choice, making reference to the hair type, texture and condition of the hair
and scalp (see the information at the end of this guide for more detail about
choosing the correct shampoo).

Step 2- Ask the client to lean back into the wash basin and make sure they
are sitting comfortably. Remove any hair from their face and ask the client
to remove any accessories, such as glasses or jewelry.
Step 3- Run the water and check the water temperature on your wrist. Once
ready, apply water to the client’s scalp and ask them if the temperature is ok.
Starting at the front hairline, cup the hand to direct the water towards the
wash basin as you wet the hair so that you don’t wet the client’s face. Take
extra care around the hairline.

Step 4- Choose a suitable shampoo for the client’s hair type and any other
factors identified during the hair and scalp analysis. Depending on the hair
length and density, dispense the correct amount of shampoo, either one
pump or about the size of a two pence piece. Distribute the product evenly
between your hands then use ‘effleurage’ techniques to apply the product
evenly through the hair.

Step 5- ‘Rotary’ techniques are applied utilizing small, firm, circular massage
movements, using the pads of the fingers. ‘Friction’ techniques, with quick,
rubbing movements, will remove any build up or debris from the hair, if the
hair is not too long. Repeat the rotary massage technique until the shampoo
and water emulsify.

Step 6- When the hair is ready for rinsing, turn the water back on, check the
temperature on your wrist and then rinse the hair using the same cupping
technique used at the beginning, checking the temperature with the client.
Work from the front hair line to remove the shampoo. Make sure both hands
and hair are free from any suds. Squeeze out any excess water.

Step 7- Apply a second shampoo if necessary, repeating the shampoo

application and massage techniques. The second shampoo may lather more
than the first.

Step 8- Run the water and rinse until all the shampoo has been removed.
Turn off the water and gently squeeze the hair to remove excess water.
Wrap a towel around the hair to stop any drips from entering the eyes or
face.

LESSON 2.5: HAIRSTYLING BASICS

Hairstyling tools include the following items:
 • Combs
• Brushes
• Rollers (plastic)
• Clips (duckbill, sectioning, finger waving, double prong, and single prong)
• Pins (bobby pins and hairpins)
• Clamps (sectioning clamps)

1. Finger waving is the process of shaping and directing the hair into an S pattern
through the use of the fingers, combs, and waving lotion.

Other Methods of Finger Waving

• Vertical finger waving, the ridges and waves run up and down the head.
• Horizontal finger waves are sideways and parallel around the head. The procedure is
the same for both.

2. Using Pin Curls - Pin curls serve as the basis for patterns, lines, waves, curls, and rolls
that are used in a wide range of hairstyles. You can use them on all types of hair, including
straight, permanent waved, or naturally curly hair. Pin curls work best when the hair is layered
and smoothly wound. This makes springy and long-lasting curls with good direction and
definition
• The stem determines the amount of mobility, or movement, in a section of hair. Curl
mobility is classified as: no stem, half stem, and full stem.
• The no-stem curl is placed directly on the base of the curl. It produces a tight, firm, long-
lasting curl and allows minimum mobility.
• The half-stem curl permits medium movement; the curl (circle) is placed half off the
base. It gives good control to the hair.
• The full-stem curl allows for the greatest mobility. The curl is placed completely off the
base. The base may be a square, triangular, halfmoon, or rectangular section,
depending on the area of the head in which the full-stem curls are used. It gives as
much freedom as the length of the stem will permit. If it is exaggerated, the hair near the
scalp will be flat and almost straight. It is used to give the hair a strong, definite
direction.

3. Using Roller Curls - Rollers are used to create many of the same effects as stand-up
pin curls.
Roller Direction The placement of rollers on the head usually follows the movement of
the finished style. For versatility in styling, a downward directional wrap gives options to
style in all directions—under, out, forward, or back— while still maintaining volume. To
reduce volume, bringing movement closer to the head, use indentation curl placement.
Indentation is the point where curls of opposite directions meet, forming a recessed
area. This is often found in flip styles or in bangs (fringes) with a dip or wave movement.
Indentation can be achieved using rollers, curling irons, or a round brush.

4. Using Hot Rollers- Hot rollers are to be used only on dry hair. They are heated either
electrically or by steam, and they are a great time saver in the salon. Follow the same setting
patterns as with wet setting, but allow the hot roller to stay on the hair for about ten minutes. A
thermal protector can be sprayed on the hair before setting. The result is a curl that is weaker
than a wet-set curl, but stronger and longer lasting than can be achieved using a curling iron.
Spray-on products are available for application to each section of hair to create a stronger set.

5. Comb-Out Techniques- A good set leads to a good comb out . For successful finishes,
learn how to shape and mold the hair, and then practice fast, simple, and effective methods for
comb outs. If you follow a well-structured system of combing out hairstyles, you will save time
and get more consistent results.

Backcombing and back brushing Techniques

• Backcombing and back brushing are the best ways to lift and increase volume, as well
as to remove indentations caused by roller setting. Backcombing also known as
teasing, ratting, matting, or French lacing, involves combing small sections of hair from
the ends toward the scalp, causing shorter hair to mat at the scalp and form a cushion
or base.
 • Back brushing, also known as ruffing (RUF-ing), is used to build a soft cushion or to
mesh two or more curl patterns together for a uniform and smooth comb out

6. Hair Wrapping- Hair wrapping is a technique used to keep curly hair smooth and
straight while retaining a beautiful shape. Curly hair can be wrapped around the head to give it
a smooth, rounded contour, resulting in an effect that is similar to that attained with rollers.
When wrapping hair, very little volume is attained because the hair at the scalp is not lifted. If
height is desired, you can place large rollers directly at the crown, with the remainder of the
hair wrapped around the head. Wrapping can be done on wet or dry hair. On curly hair, wet
wrapping creates a smooth, sleek look. When working with very curly hair, press it first, then do
a dry hair wrapping.

7. Blow-dry Styling- Blow-dry styling is the technique of drying and styling damp hair in
one operation, and it has revolutionized the hairstyling world. Today, women desire hairstyles
that require the least possible time and effort to maintain. The selection of styling tools,
techniques, and products must relate to the client’s lifestyle. Is the client capable of styling her
own hair, and how much time will she have to do it? As the stylist, you are responsible for
guiding and educating the client through this process. To do so, you must first learn all about
the tools and products available to you. Remember, the client’s first impression of the haircut
you have provided will be determined by the quality of the blow-dry.

8. Thermal Hairstyling- Thermal waving and curling, also known as Marcel waving, are
methods of waving and curling straight or pressed dry hair using thermal irons and special
manipulative techniques. Thermal irons, which can be either electrical or stove heated, have
been modernized so successfully that they are more popular today than ever before.
Manipulative techniques are basically the same for electric irons or stove-heated irons.

9. Thermal Hair Straightening (Hair Pressing) - Thermal hair straightening, or pressing,

is a popular service that is very profitable in the salon. When properly done, hair pressing
temporarily straightens extremely curly or unruly hair by means of a heated iron or comb. A
pressing generally lasts until the hair is shampooed. Hair pressing also prepares the hair for
additional services, such as thermal curling and croquignole (KROH-ken-yohl) thermal curling.
A good hair pressing leaves the hair in a natural and lustrous condition, and it is not harmful to
the hair. There are three types of hair pressing:
• Soft press, which removes about 50 to 60 percent of the curl, is accomplished
by applying the thermal pressing comb once on each side of the hair.
• Medium press, which removes about 60 to 75 percent of the curl, is
accomplished by applying the thermal pressing comb once on each side of the hair,
using slightly more pressure.
• Hard press, which removes 100 percent of the curl, is accomplished by applying
the thermal pressing comb twice on each side of the hair. A hard press can also be
done by first passing a hot thermal iron through the hair. This is called a double press.
LO5 Points to Remember:
 Consult and advise client on color options, and checked for possible skin allergies.
 Check and analyze condition of the hair and scalp. Prepare and use protective clothing
and materials to OH & S requirements.
 Drape clients following established procedures to avoid stains from hair coloring.
 Where necessary, shampoo client’s hair to remove remaining conditioners and styling
products, making sure the scalp is not scratched.
 Style where necessary, hair according to client’s particular requirements
 Ensure client’s safety and comfort during the activity.

Helpful Suggestion
 LESSON 2.6: HEALTH AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
1. Perform patch test before the application of tint.
2. Do not apply hair tint if a patch test is positive.
3. Use clean applicator brushes, bottles, combs and towels.
4. Do not brush hair prior to application of color.
5. Take a strand test or color.
6. Do not mix tint if you are not ready to use it.
7. Do not apply tint if metallic dye is present to the hair.
8. Use a mild shampoo.
9. Protect patron’s clothing by proper draping.
10. Do not permit hair color to come in contact with the patron’s eyes.
11. Wear gloves to protect hands.
12. Apply hair color section by section.

What’s More
Apply your skill by performing a patch test procedure. Choose one family member. Send
pictures or a video regarding your activity to your teacher.

SCORING RUBRIC: Preparing patron for hair coloring service.

Criteria Excellent Very Satisfactory Fair Poor

Satisfactory
(5) (4) (3) (2) (1)

1. Assessed the patron’s

personal needs.
2. Extended respect and courtesy
to client at all times.

3. Examined and took patch and

strands test accurately.

4. Observed health and safety

precautions at all times.

What I Have Learned

Direction: Answer the following questions clearly. Use a separate sheet of your paper to write
your answer.

1. What are the means of assessing patron’s personal needs?

2. How are you going to perform strand test?
3. What are some precautionary measures to be observed in hair color service?

What I Can Do
Make a video presentation which shows how to prepare a client in hair coloring. Send the
softcopies of the video through GC Group in Messenger made by your teacher.
What I Need to Know

Apply hair color (TLE_HEHD9-12CB-Ic-f-3)

3.1 Prepare and use tools, materials, implements following OH & S requirements
3.2 Select and mix color and developer according to client’s hair condition and length
and desired outcome.
3.3 Apply color according to product specifications and established or acceptable
procedures 3.4 Style where necessary, hair according to client’s particular
requirements.

What’s In
In the previous lesson, you are able to consult and advise client on color options, and checked
for possible skin allergies, check and analyze condition of the hair and scalp, prepare and use
protective clothing and materials to OH & S requirements, drape clients following established
procedures to avoid stains from hair coloring, where necessary, shampoo client’s hair to remove
remaining conditioners and styling products, making sure the scalp is not scratched, style where
necessary, hair according to client’s particular requirements and ensure client’s safety and
comfort during the activity. In this lesson, you will be able to know how to perform the hair
coloring procedure.

What’s New
This module deals with the correct application of a coloring product on hair. It includes hair
coloring techniques and identifying its corresponding faults and correction. This is done
according to the manufacturer’s instruction while ensuring client safety and comfort during the
process.

What Is It

Review:

Classification of Hair Coloring Temporary

Hair Coloring
 Color rinses- to highlight the color or add color to the hair.
 Highlighting color shampoo- give highlights and color tones to the hair
 Crayons- sticks of coloring used to retouch newly grown hair between tinting
 Hair color creams- used mostly for theoretical make-up
 Hair color sprays- used in gold and silver colors applied from aerosol containers.

Semi-Permanent Hair Coloring

Hair coloring agents designed to do the following:
1. Cover or blend partially gray hair without affecting its natural color.
2. Enhance gray hair without changing its color.
3. Highlight and bring out the natural color of the hair.

Permanent Hair Coloring

These products actually change the structure of the hair to alter natural hair color. These tints
or dyes are mixed with hydrogen peroxide and penetrate the cortex of the hair to change its
color composition.

LESSON 3.1: PREPARE AND USE TOOLS, MATERIALS, IMPLEMENTS HAIR

COLORING

Materials and Implements

Materials
1. Towel 5. Rinse
2. Hydrogen peroxide 6. Cotton
3. Cape 7. Record Card
4. Color Chart Protective Gloves 8. Shampoo

Tools
1. Comb
2. Timer
3. Applicator
4. Tint Brushes
5. Swab sticks
6. Mixing bowls

Preliminary Steps
1. Give preliminary patch test 24 hours before coloring.
2. Proceed with the coloring if the patch test negative. 3.
Examine patron’s scalp.
4. Color maybe applied with an applicator bottle or brush.

Preparation
1. Prepare all needed materials and implements.
2. Prepare the patron.
3. Re-examine patron’s scalp.
4. Select desired color.
5. Put on protective gloves.
6. Make color strand test.
7. Prepare the formula.

LESSON 3.2: SELECT AND MIX HAIR COLOR

Always Consult Lightening Curve and Color Wheel

Once you have identified your natural depth, your target depth and tone, the developer
and your product you now need to correctly formulate the colour that will provide you with your
desired result. If you are going lighter or darker you need to firstly consult your lightening curve
. If you are going darker you may need to replace the underlying warmth that would exist in
natural hair color at your target depth. If you are going lighter you may need to neutralize the
underlying warmth that will be exposed as you are lightening the hair. To find out more about
considering the lightening curve when formulating hair color read our lightening curve blog
here.

Once you have a good understanding of what is happening with your warmth, it’s time
to consult you Color Wheel and the Principles of Color Theory. Use the theories of
Complementary Colors and Color Harmony to neutralize or enhance tone.
 LESSON 3.3: HAIR COLORING APPLICATION
A. Tinting to a Lighter Shade
1. Section the hair into four quarters.
2. Sub-divide section into one fourth-inch strands.
3. Pick up a strand of hair. Hold it away from the head.
4. Apply color to the hair one-inch from the scalp to hair ends.
5. Finish the application of color section by section.
6. Let color develop for about 15 minutes.
7. Take strand test to check color development.
8. Apply tint mixture to scalp area. Be sure all hair is saturated.
9. Leave tint until the desired color has developed evenly from scalp to the ends.
10. Rinse hair with lukewarm water to remove excess coor.
11. Remove stains around the hairline, ears, and neck.
12. Shampoo hair and rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water. Towel dry.
13. Style hair.
14. Fill out record card and file.

B. Tinting to a Darker Shade

Follow the same preparation and procedure as used for one step tint to a lighter shade
with the exceptions.
1. Select color darker than client’s/patron’s natural hair color.
2. Apply the tint from the scalp area to hair ends.
3. Shampoo and rinse in the usual manner when the color has developed evenly from
scalp area to hair ends.

LESSON 3.4: HAIRSTYLING BASICS (REVIEW)

Hairstyling tools include the following items:
• Combs
• Brushes
• Rollers (plastic)
• Clips (duckbill, sectioning, finger waving, double prong, and single prong)
• Pins (bobby pins and hairpins)
• Clamps (sectioning clamps)

1. Finger waving is the process of shaping and directing the hair into an S pattern
through the use of the fingers, combs, and waving lotion.

Other Methods of Finger Waving

• Vertical finger waving, the ridges and waves run up and down the head.
• Horizontal finger waves are sideways and parallel around the head. The procedure is
the same for both.

2. Using Pin Curls - Pin curls serve as the basis for patterns, lines, waves, curls, and rolls
that are used in a wide range of hairstyles. You can use them on all types of hair, including
straight, permanent waved, or naturally curly hair. Pin curls work best when the hair is layered
and smoothly wound. This makes springy and long-lasting curls with good direction and
definition
• The stem determines the amount of mobility, or movement, in a section of hair. Curl
mobility is classified as: no stem, half stem, and full stem.
• The no-stem curl is placed directly on the base of the curl. It produces a tight, firm, long-
lasting curl and allows minimum mobility.
• The half-stem curl permits medium movement; the curl (circle) is placed half off the
base. It gives good control to the hair.
• The full-stem curl allows for the greatest mobility. The curl is placed completely off the
base. The base may be a square, triangular, halfmoon, or rectangular section,
depending on the area of the head in which the full-stem curls are used. It gives as
much freedom as the length of the stem will permit. If it is exaggerated, the hair near the
scalp will be flat and almost straight. It is used to give the hair a strong, definite
direction.

3. Using Roller Curls - Rollers are used to create many of the same effects as stand-up
pin curls.
Roller Direction The placement of rollers on the head usually follows the movement of
the finished style. For versatility in styling, a downward directional wrap gives options to
style in all directions—under, out, forward, or back— while still maintaining volume. To
reduce volume, bringing movement closer to the head, use indentation curl placement.
Indentation is the point where curls of opposite directions meet, forming a recessed
area. This is often found in flip styles or in bangs (fringes) with a dip or wave movement.
Indentation can be achieved using rollers, curling irons, or a round brush.

4. Using Hot Rollers- Hot rollers are to be used only on dry hair. They are heated either
electrically or by steam, and they are a great time saver in the salon. Follow the same setting
patterns as with wet setting, but allow the hot roller to stay on the hair for about ten minutes. A
thermal protector can be sprayed on the hair before setting. The result is a curl that is weaker
than a wet-set curl, but stronger and longer lasting than can be achieved using a curling iron.
Spray-on products are available for application to each section of hair to create a stronger set.

5. Comb-Out Techniques- A good set leads to a good comb out. For successful finishes,
learn how to shape and mold the hair, and then practice fast, simple, and effective methods for
comb outs. If you follow a well-structured system of combing out hairstyles, you will save time
and get more consistent results.

Backcombing and Backbrushing Techniques

• Backcombing and backbrushing are the best ways to lift and increase volume, as well
as to remove indentations caused by roller setting. Backcombing also known as
teasing, ratting, matting, or French lacing, involves combing small sections of hair from
the ends toward the scalp, causing shorter hair to mat at the scalp and form a cushion
or base.

• Backbrushing, also known as ruffing (RUF-ing), is used to build a soft cushion or to

mesh two or more curl patterns together for a uniform and smooth comb out

6. Hair Wrapping- Hair wrapping is a technique used to keep curly hair smooth and
straight while retaining a beautiful shape. Curly hair can be wrapped around the head to give it
a smooth, rounded contour, resulting in an effect that is similar to that attained with rollers.
When wrapping hair, very little volume is attained because the hair at the scalp is not lifted. If
height is desired, you can place large rollers directly at the crown, with the remainder of the
hair wrapped around the head. Wrapping can be done on wet or dry hair. On curly hair, wet
wrapping creates a smooth, sleek look. When working with very curly hair, press it first, then do
a dry hair wrapping.

7. Blow-dry Styling- Blow-dry styling is the technique of drying and styling damp hair in
one operation, and it has revolutionized the hairstyling world. Today, women desire hairstyles
that require the least possible time and effort to maintain. The selection of styling tools,
techniques, and products must relate to the client’s lifestyle. Is the client capable of styling her
own hair, and how much time will she have to do it? As the stylist, you are responsible for
guiding and educating the client through this process. To do so, you must first learn all about
the tools and products available to you. Remember, the client’s first impression of the haircut
you have provided will be determined by the quality of the blowdry.

8. Thermal Hairstyling- Thermal waving and curling, also known as Marcel waving, are
methods of waving and curling straight or pressed dry hair using thermal irons and special
manipulative techniques. Thermal irons, which can be either electrical or stove heated, have
been modernized so successfully that they are more popular today than ever before.
Manipulative techniques are basically the same for electric irons or stove-heated irons.

9. Thermal Hair Straightening (Hair Pressing) - Thermal hair straightening, or pressing,

is a popular service that is very profitable in the salon. When properly done, hair pressing
temporarily straightens extremely curly or unruly hair by means of a heated iron or comb. A
pressing generally lasts until the hair is shampooed. Hair pressing also prepares the hair for
additional services, such as thermal curling and croquignole (KROH-ken-yohl) thermal curling.
A good hair pressing leaves the hair in a natural and lustrous condition, and it is not harmful to
the hair. There are three types of hair pressing:
• Soft press, which removes about 50 to 60 percent of the curl, is accomplished
by applying the thermal pressing comb once on each side of the hair.
• Medium press, which removes about 60 to 75 percent of the curl, is
accomplished by applying the thermal pressing comb once on each side of the hair,
using slightly more pressure.
• Hard press, which removes 100 percent of the curl, is accomplished by applying
the thermal pressing comb twice on each side of the hair. A hard press can also be
done by first passing a hot thermal iron through the hair. This is called a double press.
LO5

What’s More

Direction: Apply your skill in hair coloring in tinting a lighter shade. Choose one family
member. Send pictures regarding your activity to your teacher.
Follow the Follows more Follows 2-3 Follows at Did not follow
Criteria procedure than 1 procedure least 1 procedure
correctly procedure correctly procedure correctly
correctly correctly
(5) (4) (3) (2) (1)
A. Client
Preparation
B. Proper Attire
C. Proper tools
and supplies
D. Proper
application of
hair tint
E. Safety
Precautions

What I Have Learned

Direction: Answer the following questions clearly. You can use a separate sheet of paper to
write your answer.

1. What types of tints are used to perform permanent hair coloring?

2. How will you select and mix hair color?
3. What are the preliminary steps in hair coloring?
What I Can Do
Apply your skill in hair coloring in tinting to a darker shade. Choose one family member.
Send pictures or a video regarding your activity to your teacher.

Performance Rubric for permanent hair coloring

Follow the Follows more Follows 2-3 Follows at Did not follow
procedure than 1 procedure least 1 procedure
Criteria
correctly procedure correctly procedure correctly
correctly correctly
(5) (4) (3) (2) (1)
A. Client
Preparation
B. Proper Attire
C. Proper tools
and supplies
D. Proper
application of
hair tint
E. Safety
Precautions

Summary
Temporary colorants are the mildest form of hair coloring.
Semi-permanent color penetrates the cuticle of the hair but do not alter the natural
pigmentation structure and simple coats the cortex with color.
Permanent tints change the structure f the hair and alter its natural hair color.
Discuss with the patron his/her preferences; what is his/her expectation after hair
coloring service.
Perform patch test before you apply tint to the hair.
Apply hair color section by section.
To ensure successful results when performing hair coloring services, the colorist
must follow a prescribed procedure. A clearly defined system makes for the greatest
efficiency, and the safest and most satisfactory results. Without such a plan, the work will
take longer, results will be uneven, and mistakes may be made.
The four most common classifications are permanent, demi-permanent (sometimes
called deposit only), semi-permanent, and temporary.
Hair analysis is performed by observation using the senses of sight, touch, hearing, and
smell. The four most important factors to consider in hair analysis are texture, density,
porosity, and elasticity. Other factors that you should also be aware of are growth
pattern and dryness versus oiliness.
In certain individuals, the use of hair coloring can result in allergic reaction and/or skin
irritation.
A negative skin test shows no sign of inflammation and a positive skin test is recognized
by redness, swelling, burning, itching, blisters or eruptions.
Highlighting involves coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to
add a variety of lighter shades and the illusion of depth.
 Assessment: (Post-Test)

A. True or False: Write TRUE if the statement is correct and FALSE if the statement is not
correct.

__________1. The hair colorist should interpret he patron’s wishes and take into account all
the factors that affect the coloring process.
__________2. After care advice should be given to maintain new color of the hair.
__________3. Any remaining tint on the scalp can be removed by oxidizing agent.
__________4. Use of metal containers is allowed when mixing colorants.
__________5. Poor quality products result in loss of time, effort and money.

B. Identification
__________1. The result of skin test which shows no sign of inflammation.
__________2. It is used to show products range of colors, their names and numbers.
__________3. It is a material used for applying tint to the hair.
__________4. It is a skin test which is recognized by redness, swelling, burning and skin
eruption.
__________5. The length of time required to administer a patch test.

C. Multiple Choices. Answer the question that follows. Choose the best answer from
among the given choices.
1. It blends gray hair, enhances natural color, refreshes faded color and serves as filler in color
correction.
A. Permanent Color C. Demi-permanent color
B. Semi-permanent color D. Temporary color
2. Hair texture can be classified as coarse, medium, or _______.
A. porous C. fine
B. brittle D. dull
3. _____________is the ability of the hair to stretch and return to its original length without
breaking.
A. texture C. porosity
B. elasticity D. growth
4. An aniline derivative tint should not be used if the following condition is recognized except
one.
A. Signs of positive skin test.
B. Contagious scalp or hair disorders.
C. Signs of negative skin test
D. Scalp irritation or eruption.
5. Skin allergies to hair coloring are characterized except by____________.
A. redness C. itching
B. swelling D.drowsiness