CHAPTER 22

TUNING YOUR RIFLE

\ A fnat do I mean by tuning the rifle? I mean getting rhe rifle ro shoot to its
V Y full potentiai. It should provide the most resistance to wind changes, while
giving the widest load window it can. That was certainly a mouthful, but in order
to be competitive, shooters must wring out every thousandth possible from every
group, and must have maximum tolerance in loading powder.
In order to do this, assume that every case is good, and that bullets and powder
and that rifle are in good working order. You are certainly not going to wring out
every thousand of accuracy with inadequate components, but remember there
are no magic powders or bullets, and when it comes to cases you have control of
the process.
I specift my reamers for the 6PPC to have a .2435" diameter and a .070" freebore
with a 1' 30" lead angle. The freebore is the area of the throat where there is no rifling
(cut out by the reamer). In essence, it is a continuation of the internal case neck diameter
until the rifling starts. The transition to the rifling is "softened" by the lead angle. A
1" 30" lead angle may seem very shallow, but it is effective at providing smooth initial
guidance and bullet engraving without significant copper wash. The .070" freebore
allows me to use a bullet weight of 66 to 69 grains (built on .825" jackets) and still
have the base of the bullet approximately half r,r'ay down the case neck.
I want the bullet base to be in the area of the case neck where the neck is sized.
The button on my full-length sizing die does not size the whole neck, only about
% of it, as do most dies that use interchangeable buttons. If the pressure ring of the
base ofa flat based bullet has been seated so deep that it goes past the sized area of
the case you will have a very diflicult time tuning the rifle.
Why did I choose bullets in the 66 to 69 grain range? The reason is the rate of
twist of the rifling in our benchrest barrels. If the rifling twist was faster, it would
be able to stabilize a heavier bullet for the 6mm diameter. A I turn in 15 inch travel

247
248 THE BOOK OF RIFLE ACCURACY

(1 in 15) is about the minimum that will stabilize a 68 grain bullet. Conversel¡ a 1

in 13 twist would probably be the most aggressive twist rate that should be used for
optimal accuracy. We walk a fine line between instability and loss of accuracy.
If you plan on using bullets 62 grains or lighter, consider they may also be shorter
than the reamer was designed to optimize. If the freebore is .070", you may have a

hard time getting the bullet to the rifling and still leave enough of the bullet in the
case to be properly supported.
Likewise ifyou are shooting a 30 caliber bullet in the 112 grain range in something
like a 308R, the short, stubby bullet would again require very little if any freebore if
you expect to reach the lands and still have support in the case neck for the bullet.
A 168 grain 30 caliber bullet in a .30-06, would expect a more aggressive twist rate
and also more freebore.

BARREL HARMONICS
If there were no harmonic vibrations in a rifle, any powder charge or seating depth
would give as good a group as the stacked tolerances would allow. That is not the
case. The simple fact that we have to tune a rifle implies there are harmonics, just as

there are harmonics in any non-dampened system.

+--+

A simple rod attached to a solid base vibrates in a fundamental pattern.

 CHAPTER 22:TUNING YOUR RIFLE 249

A barrel mounted to a rifle is not a simple round rod. It is tapered and preloaded
by gravity atthe muzzle. Consequently, it does not vibrate in a single harmonic pat-
tern. In addition, the stretching forces caused by bullet-to-barrel resistance create
additional harmonics.

!!¡ r-r rfl I il I r r I r u r t I r.3. tj!.|l. *,;. fr,

-

Exaggerated primary harmonics of a barrel.

The result is that the muzzle moves up and down as the bullet travels down the
bore. With respect to time, the motion of themuzzle can be simplistically represented
by a sine wave. This representation is used only as an example to illustrate the need
to tune a rifle, and it should not be viewed as the total harmonic content of a rifle
as a bullet travels down the mrzzle. Below a simplified barrel motion is illustrated
with various loads of N133, 0.3 grains apart.

Typical powder loads of N'1 33 (grains)

Time -----4

-I-

Simplified barrel vibration /

Slower loads (less powder) leave the barrel later.

The goal of the previous illustration is to show that with different loads, a bullet
will leave the muzzle of a barrel at different points in the vibration cycle.
250 THE BOOK OF RIFLE ACCURACY

30.1 Typical powder loads of N133 (grains)

29.8
I

28.6
I

Time
--* + :

i
---

Simplified barrel vibration

/

Slower loads (less powder) leave the barrel later.

If there were no tolerances in loading (exactly the same weight of powder, exactly
the same neck tension on all cases, exactly the same primer flash from all primers,
etc.), then it really would not make any difference where the bullet left with respect
to the muzzle motion. Unfortunately that is not the case. There are always tolerances
in loading so it is essential to have the bullet leave the barrel at the points where
tolerances make the least difference.
As the above illustration shows, a reasonable amount of load tolerance does not
alter group size when the muzzle is at the extremes of its motion (top and bottom).
However, if the muzzle is moving up or down there is a large vertical component
put into the group due to load tolerance. Working through the tuning process' you
will see this is not the whole story. What we end up looking for is a more complex
harmonic motion where lhe mtvzle is affected by secondary harmonics to the point
where we have as large a tolerance to load variations as possible.

THE TUNING PROCESS

l-et us start tuning voul rifle. I have shot "T" porvder (Thunderbird 322) fot
rr-.:.-'. . c::. ¿:d ieel that. atter I leLtrned its itliost'ttct-csles, I can control loads very
 CHAPTER 22:TUNING YOUR RIFLE 251

"T" is a surplus military powder with a burn rate that is very effective
effectively.
in a 6PPC chambering. Is it better than other powders like VihtaVuori N133 or
B20B? It may be, since it has become scarce and that, as we all know, always makes
something better. If I had started with one of the other powders, I would have
learned it just as well.
The key is to settle on one powder, learn what it does under temperature, humid-
ity and wind changes, and then adjust before you shoot a disastrous group. Another
recommendation is you simply buy a significant amount of the powder you like.
Powder can change from lot to lot. If your economic situation permits, buy enough
to last a few years. There is no sense buying a single jug unless it is to test. If that is
the case, you need a guarantee that if you like it there is sufficient quantity of that
lot set aside.
As of this writing my "T" powder has run out so I am "learning" Nl33, a powder
currently being manufactured. From what I can see it shoots extremely well under
certain conditions, but the load changes required to maintain tune are more signifi-
cant than with "T:' I also shoot B20B powder which seems more like "T" in terms of
load adjustments. Again, this is a military surplus powder and there are many lots
floating around. Some are excellent and some are not. Be wary if you decide to go
with this powder.

COMMON METHODS TO TUNE A RIFLE

The "hunt and peck 1. . "Let's try seating the bullet in the case loaded with powder
and see what happens3' I cannot endorse this method. I find it foolish and dangerous,
especially when it comes to high capacity hunting rifles. Remember, always work up
your loads and look for signs of excessive pressure.
The "I shot the last barrel here so that will work' method. A little better, but
it assumes that everlthing is identical: temperature, humidity, barrel, reamer, etc.
In most cases this method can be used as a starting point to find the best tune, but
I hardly ever find it to be the last word.
The "shoot some groups with different loads, pick the best load and then
optimize the seating depth" method. Better still, but if conditions change while
you are looking for the optimal seating depth, you will probably miss it. The load
window also moves with seating depth, so you might not be able to keep up with a

one number load.

252 THE BOOK OF RIFLE ACCURACY

THE TUNING METHOD I USE

The tuning process I use is more methodical and I strongly beiieve it gives the best
results. There have been times where I have "shortcut" this method, and most of
those times I have had to go back and recheck.
Let us assume you have 20 pieces of fireformed brass trimmed, sized and ready
to load. Use a sheet of target paper with multiple targets on it. I pick this paper up
at the Super Shoot every year and then I add additional targets using a stamp. If you
have a printer, you can probably create your own and then use the back of a regula-
tion target to print it on. Remember, you will need good quality target paper.
Try to have at leasl24targets on a sheet of paper. You are going to shoot a number
of three-shot groups and also some five-shot groups, it is convenient if everything is
on the same sheet. It will make it easy to "study" later.
First, find the bullet jam in the barrel. Load a dummy round (no powder or
primer) with a bullet seated long into the lands. Measure the bullet seating depth
(caliper and bullet seating attachment) and record. Remove the firing mechanism
from the bolt and polish the bullet with some xxxx steel wool. Lightly rub a little
die wax on the bullet and place the dummy round into the chamber. Close the bolt
body on the round and then snap it open-the bullet should have been pushed back
by the lands. If the bullet sticks in the lands when the bolt is opened, keep moving
it out of the lands until it will not stick.
I use significant neck tension on my cases. It would be hard to seat a bullet by
just pressing down on the top of the seater with your hand with one of my cases. On
a new barrel the lead has not been smoothed out yet by f,ring, so it may be a little
more difficult to find the jam until a few rounds have been fired. If you have trouble
getting the bullet to stay in the case, try increasing the neck tension.

DO NOT'HOLD'WHEN TESTING
When testing a barrel (finding the tune) do not hold on the shots. This is extremely
important and also very difficult. It is natural to hold for changes in wind velocity
or direction in both competition and practice. So it becomes an ingrained reaction.
During testing, keep the reticle on the exact same spot for all shots, no matter what
the wind does.
 CHAPTER 22: TUNING YOUR RIFLE 253

What you are trying to determine, in addition to group size, is how much the
bullet is deflected by the wind. A good barrel gives a significant amount of change
in the flags. Holding for wind changes will not show how much the wind absolutely
affected the shot. If you do not know how much a bullet should move with the wind,
try to shoot all shots in the same condition. Soon, you will develop an instinctive
knowledge of how much deflection any condition change should bring. Make notes
on every shot so that later, as you go over the target, you can really understand where
barrel performance peaked.

AN EXAMPLE OF TUNING
Next image is the "tune target" for the bag gun I used in the 2005 NBRSA Nationals.
I used this gun to win the 2-Gun and 3-Gun awards. With the help of myunlimited
gun, I also won the 4-Gun award. I used 2005 VihtaVuori N133, Bart's 68 Grain
Ultra bullets and a 4-groove cut-rifled Krieger barrel chambered by Dwight Scott.
I have won with many other component combinations so please do not get fixated
on those components.
A common mistake is trying to get the same combination of components and
seating depth to shoot in every barrel. That would be nice but barrels have prefer-
ences. What works well in one may not work at all in another, so be flexible!
In the following target, I shot 3-shot groups after I found the bullet jam. The bullet
jam was 1.082" on the measuring assembly and the first series of 3-shot groups was
with the bullet pushed back .001" by the lands (1.083").
Throughout the series I shot 52.5, 53.5 and 54.5 clicks on a Culver powder mea-
lo 28.6,29.2 and29.B grains of N133 powder (t .1 grain). This is
sure. This translates
a bottom-to-top end range I use to give a map of how a barrel will perform. During

competition I will shoot outside of this range if I find that it is required.

I do not like to overfill a case, as a compressed load will push a bullet out. To
see for yourself, fill a case to the top, seat a bullet and measure the loaded round.
Remeasure after 15 minutes and you will likely find the bullet has moved. Seating
depth is critical to accuracy, and I do not want bullets moving while I wait to shoot.
If I find bullet seating does not change, i will increase the load range to include 30.1
grains of N133.
254 THE BOOK OF RIFLE ACCURACY

In 2008, I began tuning my rifles somewhat differently when using cut-rifled

barrels in conjunction with boat tail bullets. In those instances I begin the tuning
from the "touch point" and not from jam. I then shoot the series startingat29.I,
29.7, and 30.3 grains of Nl33 powder. Instead of moving the bullet into the case
.003" as described earlier, I move the bullet ort of the case .002" for the next series.
Still, I look for the same type of results.

@
52,/_

t
ffil
\*-úy'
-o7d*
@
1"a73

52V- 53/,
ffi
w
fa2z_

t.a7e t
\**'/ I
Fnl/ /7
J 5 t,/=
@ 54
ñt- Vz-

t,os3,/U6
rfi^ \w/ \ *\-pr-
?u,Aea 64.v(

Tuning target for bag rifle for the 2005 NBRSA Nationals.
 CHAPTER 22: TUNING YOUR RIFLE 25s

I will go below 28.6 grains only if I cannot get anything else in the normal range
to shoot. i want the velocity range to be near or above 3300 fps in 6PPC, and do not
like it to be above 3500 fps.
Every time I have shot 3500 fps or above I have gotten some fine groups, but
inevitably a few flyers that destroyed the aggregate. The range where I am most
comfortable loading for a 6PPC, is in the 3300 to 3380 fps rangel

ffiffi
5,t'/- gqt/z-

'f# U:-"-.V",r""""*1
Series shot at jam.

using the target as an example, I was not happy with the results. when I shot
the "jam" groups, there was quite a bit of vertical and the 54.5 click group showed
excessive sensitivity to the wind.

52w r¿1.,

l.a 19
@@
Shot with bullets.003" off jam.

Series #2 was shotwith bullets seated .003" offthe jam (more into the case). Again,
the 52.5 and the 54.5 click groups had vertical. The middle group looked good, so I
felt the barrel had promise. The group's location high on the target indicated bullets
were probably leaving the barrel at the top of harmonic travel, but there was not
enough of a load window to make me happy. I pushed on.

Y*¿

N52%
{@}
t.afuJ
Shot with bullets .006" off jam.
256 THE BOOK OF RIFLE ACCURACY

Series #3 was shot .006" off the jam. It did not look good. The 52.5 click group
was a bit lower on the target while the other two groups looked unstable-too much
sensitivity to the wind. I pushed on.

t.ol8#

t"a73

shot with bullets.009" off jam.

Series #4 was shot .009" off the jam, and showed real promise. I could see two
groups that were good-the 52.5 and the 54.5. The middle group showed vertical. I
knew I was approaching a new "node" location with the bullets now hitting low on
the target (barrel was at the bottom of some form of travel). I wanted to get at least
two consecutive groups to shoot well, so I pushed on.

5 z'/-

Shot with bullets .012" off jam.

Series #5 was what I wanted. It was obvious the gun shot best when the barrel was
at the low point of travel, and both the 53.5 and 54.5loads to gave excellent results.
The 52.5 was not bad-it had some vertical but it was still centered low.
I settled on a seating depth of .012" offthe jam for this Krieger barrel. Then I
shot 5-shot groups of 53.0, 53.5, 54.0 and 54.5 clicks to confirm that the 3-shot group
results were not a fluke. It shot well with these loads.
This meant I had a little "forgive" in the powder window as well as some "forgive"
in the wind department. I cannot over-emphasize how important this is for accuracy.
A properly tuned rifle gives a signifrcant competitive edge. When conditions change
and a load is not perfect, you can still get by with it. If ysu properly read the target
(next topic), then you can make adjustments without posting a monster group.
I save the test target for each barrel along, plus notes on wind direction and
intensity for each grouping, and carry those to the match. That series of targets on
 CHAPTER 22:TUNING YOUR RIFLE 2s7

one sheet of target paper, along with the notes, are more valuable than any single
notebook with detailed explanations. Seeing how the barrel behaved provides greater
insight into what might happen in competition, when I may have to adjust a load,
than i could possibly describe in a notebook.
Preparing for the match with this barrel, I again confirmed the seating depth was
optimum. I shot groups af 52.5,53.5 and 54.5 in the morning, midday and evening
of the day before competition began. This not only confirmed the seating depth was
right, but it also indicated how the load window moved during the day. The optimal
powder load was different at different times of the da¡ but seating depth was correct.
The barrel still gave a broad loading window and it afforded the same level of wind
immunity it had while testing at my home range.
As the match progressed, I had to keep up with the seating depth. Every evening,
I loaded a dummy round and confirmed the jam was still in the same place. If the bar-
rel showed that shooting had worn the lead back, then I would have simply adjusted
the seating die so the bullets would load that much further out in the case.
Would I have originally kept testing for optimal tune if the results I got at .012"
offof jam were not good? Yes, for this type of barrel, but I would not have resorted to
jumping the bullet. There are accomplished shooters (some in the Hall of Fame) that
do not hesitate to jump bullets. I have just not had luck with that method.
How do you know a bullet is jumping? Start bybuffing a dummy-loaded bullet
with x,rrrx steel wool and then check it in the rifle (close and open the bolt on the
round after removing the firing pin assembly). Then, look at the bullet with a 10x
loop. If you cannot see any engraving from the lands, you are jumping the bullet. If
you can see the slightest smudge from opposing lands, you are still touching. You
can use nondrying Prussian blue dye to see where it touches the rifling.
Each time I think I have found a great seating depth with the bullet jumping, I
find myself scratching my head the next day and wondered what happened. fumping
the bullets is too finicky. One day it shoots well, the next it is erratic.
Even on hunting ammunition, I load with the bullet into the lands unless the
magazine is too short to not allow it. In those instances I load as long as the rifle
feeds correctly. if the rifle will not shoot there, I try seating depth changes, differ-
ent bullet ogive shapes and different powders (within the recommend range for the
cartridge), until I feel I have gotten everlthing I can get from the chambering. If it
still does not shoot, all there is left to do is re-barrel and cut a custom chamber with
a shorter freebore.
258 THE BOOK OF RIFLE ACCURACY

SEATED BU LLET CONCENTRICITY

Some years back, fohn Brown and I were walking along the vendor tents at the
Super Shoot and saw a demonstration on a new loading device. It would very accu-
rately measure the concentricity of a loaded round and then straighten it out. We
were interested, and watched for sometime as shooters brought their loads in and
had them checked. The vendor asked if I wanted him to check my loaded rounds.
I agreed and went back to get them. Concentricity ranged from .001" to .005". That

sounded significant, and the vendor indicated they probably would not shoot. I did
not allow him to straighten them out. Instead, ]ohn and I went off to shoot them.
After couple of groups in the low teens, we looked at each other and decided we did
not need that gadget.
When shooting with the bullet into the lands, the lands themselves straighten the
bullet without forcing over-travel. For the vendor to straighten a loaded round, the
bullet was pushed significantly past the point of zero concentricity. He was bending
the case neck. I cannot believe that this did not influence neck tension on the bullet,
something we strive so hard to be the same from round to round. I let the dies and
the lands take care of concentricity.

BULLET SHAPES AND TUNE

How do different bullets affect the seating depth? There are no hard and fast rules
dictating the best seating depth for all bulletibarrel combinations.

A A
ü
B

Bullet shape affects contact engraving marks from rifling lead.

Some bullets shoot extremely well at the jam point, and some like a "square mark"
(bullet B in above figure). The ogive on some bullets blends with the lead angle so
you get faint, long marks. Bart's Ultras are a good example of such a bullet (bullet A
above figure). The angle at which they meet the lead of the rifling is such that when
you find jam with a poiished bullet it willbe difñcult to see a mark. This may be one
of the reasons this profile seems to shoot so well'
 CHAPTER 22:TUNING YOUR RIFLE 259

COMMON CHARACTERISTICS OF BARRELS

When searching the optimal seating depth, there seem to be some common charac-
teristics for each tlpe of barrel.
With a button-rifled barrel such as a Shilen, I would have stopped the search for
the optimal seating depth at the .012" offthe jam. In fact, if a six-groove button-rifled
barrel does not shoot well between jam and .009" offof jam, I do not think it is ever
going to shoot with the bullets that I prefer. These numbers relate to my neck tension
and case neck thickness. Ifyours are different, expect a different range.
With a four-groove cut-rifled barrel (Bartlein or Krieger), be more patient and
keep trying until there is no mark on the bullet at all. Again, I personally do not
want to shoot off the rifling so that becomes my stop point. I have found that boat
tail bullets tend to perform better with cut-rifled barrels, whereas flat based bullets
prefer button-rifling.
I really cannot explain why these traits show up time after time. Do not take my
findings as gospel. This is a sport of experimentation and another shooter may get
different results.
The lead angle from the reamer ("typically" l" 30") determines how much you can
move the bullet into and out of the case and still "touch" the lands. Another factor
is simple wear on the barrel throat. As the barrel wears, the lead lengthens so there
is a broader area where you can still touch the lands.

GIVING UP ON A BARREL
I have been accused of giving up on barrels too quickly. My economic situation has
never allowed me to toss away a good barrel, so this suggestion had me doubting
myself. I finally decided that, maybe there was some truth to it. So I took 30 barrels
accumulated over the years and tagged "junK'while testing, and went to the range
as

every day for a month. None of these barrels had seen many rounds. The maximum
was probably 200. The whole month I did nothing but retest those barrels. That was
one of the most frustrating months I have ever spent. All I did was put on barrels,
take offbarrels and test. I could not work that month because I had a torn tendon,
and my employer did not allow me to work in that condition. Everyda¡ I forced
myself to go up to the Mountain and repeat the routine.
At the end of the month, I did not find a single barrel in that pile that was worth
taking to a small match. I tried different bullets, powder, primers, etc. The lesson
260 THE BOOK OF RIFLE ACCURACY

was that if a methodical testing of a barrel shows it will not shoot with known good
bullets and powder, then it probably never will.
Some competitors have told me that they had a barrel that suddenly "came alive"
after 400 rounds" I believe that in most cases it has finally worn in enough so that
the seating depth they originally chose was now the correct one. Thev may have
also finished the lapping on the barrel if it was bad to start with but I believe that is
a rarer occurrence.
I strongly endorse a methodical search for the optimal seating depth as I describe
in this chapter. You r,r,ill not waste half of the life of the barrel shooting it poorly and
you will not waste your time trying to make a silk purse out a sowt ear.
Do I always find barrels that will shoot as well as the one that we used as an example?
Obviously not, I have had runs of bad barrels that just about drove me üazy.
If you do not get anything to tune correctly then you have to depend on your
wind reading skills and you should hope that there will be a lot of wind at the match!
I find that typically B0% of the shooters give up when the wind is really blowing and
drastically lower their expectations. If you are confident in your wind reading abili-
ties then you can still win even if the barrel is not a great one. You wiil oniy have to
beal20o/o of the shooters!

VERTICAL POSITION OF GROUPS

One of the "tricks" of tuning is to keep an eye on the vertical position where bullets are
striking on the paper with diÍlerent 1oads. Pay close attention to the cropped picture
below (from the tuning example) and notice that the center of each of the three groups
is at the bottom of the mothbail. The target on the right was shot in a condition with
more wind from the right, which moved the group slightly up and left. Nevertheless,
for all practical purposes the groups are all at the same vertical location.

rwl2?-<¿¿

SzYz-

Selected seat¡ng depth from example.

 CHAPTER 22: TUNING YOUR RIFLE 261

When you find a barrel shooting all the powder charges centering at the same
vertical position then you have probably tuned it as well possible. The groups may not
be tiny, but very likely, that is the best performance you will get from that barrel.
The difterence in powder charges and the resulting differences in velocities would
question a simplistic world of single mode barrel harmonics (sine wave). What this
series of groups clearly demonstrates is that a tune, which gives a wide charge win-
dow is a compound vibration. The muzzle stays in the same relative position for a

longer period of time.

WHEN TO TUNE OR PRACTICE

Avoid practicing or testing in the calm. At every match, a rush of shooters head
to the benches to test loads when all the flag tails have dropped. This is when I go
meet with friends or check my equipment. There is no sense testing loads if there
is no wind. What does it tell you? You could be working up a load that looks great
in the calm but when the wind blows, it gives you a monster. This is an area that
keeps getting recommended by writers but is so wrong. You have probably heard:
"Get to the range early in the morning when there is no wind to test your loads."
You would probably have done better to stay in bed another couple of hours. At
least the barrel would have had a few less useless rounds through itl Another is:
"Find a honey hole to test your loadsl'No, go to the part of the range that has the
worst wind and test there. If loads perform well there, then there will not be any
surprises during a match.
If you are just starting and do not yet understand the cause and effect of wind
changes, or if you think there is something wrong with your rifle, then get up early
and find that honey hole.
What can be worse than tuning in the calm? Tüning in the calm while bubbling
mirage is running! Talk about a waste of bullets and barrel! Unless you are desperate
and time is running out, it will only make you feel worse than before.

TUNING TIPS FOR HUNTING RIFLES WITH A MUZZLE BRAKE

A hunting rifle equipped with a muzzle brake may not shoot very well. Many of
these rifles have a long freebore and magazine limitations which make it impossible
to reach the lands with the bullet.
262 THE BOOK OF RIFLE ACCURACY

If that is the case, you can treat the muzzle brake as a "tuner." You may not be
able to turn it and leave it at a new position but, like a tuner, the mass of the muzzle
brake helps determine the harmonics of a rifle. The goal of a normal tune is to have
all bullets leave the mtzzle at a point where the barrel stops as it changes direction
of vibration.

Muzzlebrake

Threaded connection
Cutfromtheend
'/
In this scenario we cannot move the bullets any deeper so we cannot reach the
lands to do conventional tuning but we can change the mass. With a lathe, the fol-
lowing process is simple. A machinist or gunsmith can also help.
1. Cut.005" offthe end of the mtzzle brake (refer to above drawing). Load a
couple of 3-shot groups of your favorite powder for this chambering. Seat the
bullets as long as you can (and stillfit the magazine) while maintaining a good
grip on the bullets.
2. Shoot the two groups. Is it better or worse? Sometimes it improves on the first
cut, sometimes it gets worse. Either way, cut off another .005" and repeat.

Group size will increase and decrease as you repeat cut/shoot. Soon, you will
determine what the best accuracy can be, and when you get there again you will know
to stop. Using this method I have taken rifles that would group around 1.5 inches and

cut that in half. I consider that a very good improvement for a factory rig.

TUNING HUNTING RIFLES

Most shooters who tune hunting rifles load ammunition at home and take it to the
range to test. If there is any way you can take your loading equipment to the range, do
it. Set up a chronograph. Reference the appropriate loading manual, and determine
the velocity that you want for the bullet you are testing. Find the jam of the bullet
and seat the bullet .010" offthe jam so there is no chance the lands can pull a bullet
 CHAPTER 22: TUNING YOUR RIFLE 263

out of a case. If you are limited by a short magazine size or a long freebore, seat the
bullet as long as possible. With a long freebore, make sure you seat the bullet long
but that the neck maintains a good grip. Plan on cleaning the rifle after every 13
shots-one fouler and 4 groups of three shots.
Work up a load from low value to the recommended velocity watching for over-
pressure signs. Ifthere are no over-pressure signs, go up % grain and test again. If
you start to see any over-pressure signs then back up Yz grain from there.
Once you have achieved either your velocity goal or the maximum velocity you
can safely get from the rifle, work to optimize accuracy. Load powder into three cases
but only seat bullets into two of them. Shoot the two, if the group looks bad there
is no sense in shooting the third. Go into the case .010" and repeat. What you are
trying to do is to get this load and this velocity to shoot well.
If you have gone back by .050" and still cannot get the rifle to shoot with two
shot groups, drop the powder load by lz grain and restart .010" offof jam. Stay in
this loop until either you cannot get the rifle to shoot decently at a good velocity or
you succeed. If you get the rifle to shoot well,load some 3-shot groups and see if it
will repeat. If it does, you are in good shape.
If the rifle did not shoot to your liking, you can either change the powder tlpe
or change the bullet type and try again. Use a loading manual as a guide and always
work up a load from a low value. If you are not shooting primers from a lot that you
have successfully shot before and you cannot get the rifle to shoot, you may want to
change primers before giving up. If the rifle still does not shoot, have it inspected by
a competent gunsmith. You may need to re-barrel.
Remember, hunting barrels do not last very long at top accuracy levels, so the
fewer rounds put through the barrel while tuning the better. I never shoot 5-shot
groups with a hunting rifle. I limit testing to 3-shot groups and give it plenty of time
to cool between groups.

BENCHREST TUNERS
Tuners are adjustable masses that can be attached to the muzzle of a rifle. The
weight of a tuner is typically between 4 and 7 ounces. As can be seen from the
illustrations below there are multiple designs currently in use. This is still an area
of experimentation. All tuners have a mass that can be moved forward or backward
by either screwing the whole tuner in/out or by moving a weight system in/out. By
264 THE BOOK OF RIFLE ACCURACY

positioning the mass at a different location the base harmonics of the barrel can be
changed. Moving the mass'but" lowers the frequency. Conversely, moving the mass
"in' increases the frequency.
The belief of most users is this is simply another way to tune a rifle. Using a tuner
is as effective as changing the seating depth or load. There is no claim that a tuner
will turn a bad barrel into a good one, nor is there a claim that a tuner will turn a
good barrel into a bad one.
Some tuner proponents have a pet load and seating depth, and adjust the mass
until they get the rifle to shoot well. I am not sure this method provides much in the
way of load safety margin or if it optimizes the forgiveness to wind changes. When
outside influences (humidity, temperature, etc.) change the load requirement, they
turn the tuner until they get back in tune.
Other tuner proponents set the tuner to a particular area and then proceed to
tune the rifle in the same manner I described earlier for non-tuner rifles. When
conditions indicate that a load change is required they can either move the mass of
the tuner or change the load. This process may give good flexibility.

Adjustable weights move forward and back on the threaded muzzle

 CHAPTER 22: TUNING YOUR RIFLE ).a.

The above illustration is of a tuner that simply adds some weight to a turncr
and threaded section of the mrzzle. When the desired harmonic is achieved. :h.
masses are locked up against each other. This is the simplest design the author h¿s
seen. Since it does not move the adjustable mass out past the crown of the ban'el. ,:
may be the least effective design.
In the following illustration, the whole tuner assembly can be moved in either
direction on a threaded section of the mtzzle. Two screws lock the tuner in place. This
design uses a long threaded section of lhe mrzzle. This is done in order to increase
the contact area between the tuner and the barrel. The belief is that this increased
contact area generates fewer vibrations and consequently the tuner "systeni' is more
dependable. A further design feature is that some of the weight of the tuner extends
past the crown of the barrel. This should increase the efficiency.

The whole tuner screws back and forth on the muzzle

and then it is locked into place with two screws.

Barrel section
266 THE BOOK OF RIFLE ACCURACY

In the last illustrated design (see below), a primary aluminum tube is threaded
both internally and externally. This tube is then locked onto a threaded section of
the mrzzle. The tube extends past the crown of the barrel, allowing the adjustable
weights to be placed out past the crown. When the tuner is optimally adjusted, the
two weights are locked against each other.

Adjustable weights move forward and back on the threaded muzzle

Barrel section

You may decide to tune your rifle by the conventional means. You may also
decide to incorporate a tuner. In either method, I encourage you to go through the
tuning process I described and get the broadest load window possible and the high-
est immunity to wind.