Herbs Flowers Soap 21

IMPORTANT LEGAL STUFF
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in part without the prior written permission of the author. Please do not
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herein.
As with all skin and body care products, don’t use a recipe if you’re
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care professional if you have any questions or concerns.
Images and text © by Jan Berry I TheNerdyFarmWife.com
Layout and Cover Design by Honey Bee Hill Creatives LLC.
A Special Note Concerning Essential Oils
If you’re pregnant, nursing, taking medication or have health conditions,

consult with a health care provider before using essential oils.
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Learn to Make Series:

Using Herbs & Flowers in Soap
©thenerdyfarmwife.com
Table of Contents
21 Herbs, Flowers, and Weeds �� 2

How to Add Plants to Soap�� 5
Water Infusions (or Teas)�� 6
Hot Water Infusions (Teas)�� 6
To make a tea with fresh plants�� 7
To make a tea with dried plants�� 7
Cold Water Infusions (Strained Purees/Juices)�� 8
To make a cold water infusion�� 9
Herbal Oil Infusions�� 10
The Quick Method�� 10
Warm Sunny Window Method��11
The Traditional Slow Method��11
Shelf Life of Infused Oils��12
Plants NOT to Use, or to Be Aware Of��13
Toxic Plants��13
Endangered Plants�� 14
Other Plants�� 14
Queens Anne’s Lace Soap��15
Triple Bee Balm Soap��17
Expand Your Soapmaking Knowledge��20

©thenerdyfarmwife.com
Welcome to Using Herbs & Flowers in Soap by The Nerdy Farm Wife.
In this quick start guide, you’ll discover 21 of the top herbs and flowers for making
handmade soap and learn two of the best ways to infuse and incorporate them to create
beautiful natural homemade soaps.
While there aren’t really any scientific studies out there to prove or disprove how well
herbs that are traditionally used for skincare perform when they’re added to soap,
there’s evidence that many of their individual beneficial compounds are resistant to
high temperatures and alkaline environments, both which occur during the soapmaking
process. (source)
There’s also the fact that many veteran natural soapmakers can attest to – soaps made
with certain herbs really do feel wonderful on your skin!
Flowers and herbs also add fun, creativity, and label appeal to your soaps.

Using Herbs & Flowers in Soap — 1 — ©thenerdyfarmwife.com
21 Herbs, Flowers, and Weeds
To Use In Your Soap
Below you’ll find 21 of my favorite herbs and flowers to use in soapmaking. (This list is
excerpted from the 35+ plants detailed in Module 2 of my Soapmaking Success course.)
Note that most herb and flower infusions only tint the soap a soft shade, or sometimes
not at all. That doesn’t mean that the benefits aren’t there, but if you’re looking for more
vivid coloring, you’ll want to explore the exciting world of natural colorants. (Check out
my print book Simple & Natural Soapmaking for an extensive photo color gallery of 40+
natural colorants and their usage rates.)
1. Bee Balm (Monarda fistulosa) – 4. Chickweed (Stellaria media) – soothing,

soothing, skin healing, use the flowers anti-itching, use the aerial parts to
and leaves to make an oil infusion or create an oil infusion or strong tea, gives
tea, gives soap an off-white color soap a soft pale green color
2. Calendula (Calendula officinalis) –

repairs damaged or broken skin, use the
petals or whole flower heads to create
an oil infusion or strong tea, gives soap
a soft yellow tone
3. Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla)

– anti-inflammatory, calms itchy or
splotchy skin, use the flowers to create
an oil infusion or strong tea, gives soap
a soft yellow tone
5. Comfrey Leaf (Symphtum officinale) –

for itchy skin or eczema, contains skin
repairing allantoin, use the leaves to
create an oil infusion or strong tea, gives
soap an off-white to pale yellow-green
tone
6. Dandelion Flowers (Taraxacum

officinale) – soothing for dry to normal
skin, use the flowers to create an oil
infusion or strong tea, gives soap a soft
yellow color

12. Juniper Berries (Juniperus
7. Elder Flowers (Sambucus nigra) – old- communis) – astringent, helpful
fashioned remedy for clear skin, use for oily or acne-prone skin, use the
the flowers to create an oil infusion or ground berries at 1/2 to 3/4 tsp PPO
strong tea, gives soap an off-white to (per pound of oil) to the hot lye
barely yellow tone solution, gives soap a tan color
8. Forsythia Flowers (Forsythia 13. Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis) –

suspensa) – adds soft color and label anti-inflammatory, calming, use the
appeal, use the flowers to create an leaves to create infused oil or a light-
oil infusion or strong tea, gives soap a colored tea, turns soap off-white
soft yellow color
14. Plantain (Plantago major) – helpful
9. Goldenrod (Solidago spp.) – anti- for itchy, irritated skin, use the leaves
inflammatory, adds soft color and to create an oil infusion or strong tea,
label appeal, use the flowers and turns soap off-white to pale green
flowering tops to create an oil infusion
or strong tea, gives soap an off-white 15. Queen Anne’s Lace (Daucus carota)
to soft yellow color – used for soft color and label appeal,
use the flowering tops to create an
10. Hollyhocks (Alcea rosea) – soothing, oil infusion or strong tea, turns soap a
moisturizing, use the flowers to create soft yellow
a cold water infusion, soap usually
stays white or off-white 16. Rose Hips (Rosa spp.) – contain
antioxidants and beneficial fruit
11. Jewelweed (Impatiens capensis) acids, simmer fresh or dried hips in
– useful for itchy skin, poison ivy, water for about 1 hour to make water
or poison oak, use the fresh stems, infusion, turns soap tan to brown
leaves, flowers to create a cold water
infusion, gives soap a tan to off-white 17. Rose Petals (Rosa spp.) – cooling,
tone soothes irritation and reddened skin,
use the petals to create an oil infusion
or very light colored tea, soap will
be off-white to tan depending on
strength of tea
18. Sage (Salvia officinalis) – for normal

to oily skin, use the leaves to create an
oil infusion or tea, turns the soap off-
white to pale yellow/tan-green

19. Sunflower Petals (Helianthus annuus) – skin soothing, conditioning, use the petals to
create an oil infusion or strong tea, gives soap a soft yellow tone
20. Violet Leaves (Viola odorata, V. sororia) – soothes irritated, dry, chapped, or eczema-
prone skin, use the leaves to make an oil infusion or tea, turns soap off-white to pale
green
21. Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) – helpful for oily, acne prone, or damaged skin, use the
flowering tops to make an oil infusion or tea, gives soap an off-white to pale green-
brown tone

How to Add Plants to Soap
In this guide, we’ll cover two of the ways that you can include flowers and herbs in your
soapmaking recipes: Water Infusions (or Teas) and Oil Infusions.
You can use just one of these methods in a recipe, but I often like to combine the two
methods in one soap, by using one or more infused oils to replace plain oil(s), plus cool
herbal tea, to replace plain water in a recipe.
For example, you could make a calendula soap using: calendula infused olive oil (to
replace plain olive oil) + calendula infused coconut oil (to replace plain coconut oil) +
calendula infused tea (to replace distilled water).
Or, you could choose to just use a single infused oil, or a cooled water infusion instead.
You do not need to change the lye amount if you use infused oil instead of uninfused oil,
as long as you don’t switch types of oil. (In other words, don’t try substituting calendula
infused coconut oil for plain olive oil.)
One thing to keep in mind as you craft and create recipes - the scent of flowers and
herbs will not generally survive the soapmaking process.
So, if you make soap with rose petal tea or rose infused oil, it will not smell like roses
unless you add an essential oil or fragrance oil.

Water Infusions (or Teas)
Water infusions can be used in the place of distilled water in soap recipes.
There are two methods of obtaining water-based liquids from herbs: hot infusions (or
teas) and cold infusions (strained purees/juices).
Hot Water Infusions (Teas)

An important thing to remember when using floral or herbal teas in soap is that an extra
strong or dark tea can affect the final color of the soap.
This can be beneficial in many cases - a strong tea of chamomile, calendula, dandelion,
forsythia, and goldenrod flowers can help add a pretty cream to yellow color to soap.
However, strong teas or infusions of some plants, such as lavender or rose will muddy
your soap color.
For more details on the best infusion strength for a particular plant, check the
description found beside each plant name in the previous list of flowers and herbs.
(If you’re a student in my Soapmaking Success course, also look for the expanded
printable chart in Module 2.)

To make a tea with fresh plants:
Fill a heatproof canning jar about
one-half to three-fourths full of fresh
chopped flower heads, petals, or leaves.
Use a pint jar if you need around or less
than 12 ounces of tea, or a quart jar if you
need a higher amount of tea for your
recipe.
Heat distilled water until simmering or

boiling, then pour the water into the jar.
For a light tea, steep for about 10 to 20
minutes before straining, or until you
notice the water taking on the color of
the plant.
For a strong tea, steep for several hours

or until the water takes on a strong hue
from the plant.
To make a tea with dried plants:

Chopped or whole dried herbs are more
concentrated and make a stronger
infusion than fresh ones; for this reason,
use half or even one-fourth as much
dried flowers and herbs than you would
if working with fresh plants.
You need even less when making tea

with finely ground powders. For those,
try about 1 to 2 teaspoons for 1 cup (8 oz)
of distilled water.
Some herbs, such as dried root pieces

and rosehips, are hard and woody and
should be simmered for around an
hour to soften and mash them, before
straining.

Once you’ve chosen a method and your tea has steeped to satisfaction, strain and cool it
completely before making soap. Warm tea can overheat and overflow when mixed with
lye, so cool the tea for several hours before using. If pressed for time, drop several ice
cubes in the tea until it is cooler than room temperature.
Store fresh herbal and floral teas for up to 2 days in the refrigerator, or pour into ice trays,
freeze until solid and store the resulting cubes in your freezer for around 6 months.
g
Cold Water Infusions (Strained Purees/Juices)
The second type of water infusion we’ll cover is made with fresh flowers and herbs only.
To make these, fresh leaves or flowers are blended together with distilled water to form
a watery puree, which is then strained, resulting in herbal/floral waters that can be used
in soap recipes.
This method is especially useful for fresh herbs such as jewelweed, chickweed, plantain,
and violet leaves.
While you can use these cold water infusions as part or all of the replacement for
distilled water in a recipe and make the lye solution with them, you could also reserve
around an ounce to stir in at trace, for added enrichment.

To make a cold water infusion
Fill a blender or food processor with
roughly 1 cup chopped fresh herbs/
flowers and 1/2 cup (4 oz) distilled water.
Blend well, then stir in another 1/2 to 1
cup (4 to 8 oz) of water.
You can choose to steep this in the

refrigerator-tor for a few hours or
overnight, or strain and use it right away.
Just like teas, if you make the cold water

infusion too strong, it can affect final
color of your soap. After steeping to your
satisfaction, strain through a fine mesh
sieve, pressing to get all of the infused
water out. Reserve the strained watery
portion for soap; the spent puree can be
composted.
5 Herbs/Flowers to Try in Cold Water Infusions

W Chickweed – for rashes & eczema
W Hollyhock – moisturizing
W Plantain – anti-inflammatory
W Jewelweed – anti-itching
W Violet Leaf – cooling, soothing
Store cold water infusions for up to 2 days in the refrigerator, or pour into ice trays,
freeze until solid and store the resulting cubes in your freezer for around 6 months.

Herbal Oil Infusions
There are three basic methods of incorporating herbs into oils that you can use in your
soap recipes:
The Quick Method

This method works great if you’re in a hurry for an infused oil, or when working with
coconut oil, since it needs to be in liquid state to infuse well.
Fill a heatproof jar to around 1/2 to 3/4 with your chosen dried herb or flower,
or combination of plants. Fill the jar almost to the top with your chosen oil. For
soapmaking, this tends to be olive or coconut oil.
Set the uncovered jar down into a saucepan containing several inches of water, forming
a makeshift double boiler.
Place the pan over low heat for two to three hours. Keep a close eye during this process
to ensure that the water doesn’t evaporate. After the oil has infused to your satisfaction,
remove the jar from the pan and set aside until it is cool enough to handle.
Strain the oil through a fine mesh sieve. If you don’t plan on using the oil right away, you
can leave it unstrained for several more days or weeks so it can continue to infuse while
awaiting use.

Warm Sunny Window Method
This process uses the natural heat of
sunlight to jump-start the infusion
process. It is not as fast as the quick
method, but still quicker to make than
the slow traditional method.
Fill a heatproof jar to around 1/2 to 3/4

with your chosen dried herb or flower, or
combination of plants. Fill the jar almost
to the top with olive oil. (If allergic to
olive oil, try rice bran oil instead.)
Cover the top with a piece of

cheesecloth or scrap of old t-shirt and
secure in place with a rubber band.
The breathable barrier ensures that
no condensation builds up during the
infusing time and keeps unwanted bugs
and dust from falling in and contaminating the oil.
Set the jar in a warm sunny window. Depending on the amount of sun-light and how
hot the oil gets, your oil may be in-fused within 3 to 5 days.
For a stronger oil, tuck the jar away in a dark cabinet after a week of infusing in a
window, then allow it to infuse for several more weeks in the dark. Short-term exposure
to bright sunlight is okay, but over time the extra light can cause the herbal properties
to degrade more quickly.
The Traditional Slow Method

g
This method takes the most time and patience, but the resulting infused oil will be
beautiful and well worth the wait.
Fill a heatproof jar to around 1/2 to 3/4 with your chosen dried herb or flower, or
combination of plants. Fill the jar almost to the top with olive oil, or if allergic to olive, rice
bran oil works well too.
Cover the top with a lid, label, and tuck the jar away in a dark cabinet for four to six
weeks, shaking occasionally as you remember. Once the oil is sufficiently infused, strain
it through a fine mesh sieve.

7 Herbs/Flowers to Try in Oil Infusions
W Calendula – anti-inflammatory
W Chamomile – soothes itchy skin
W Elder Flowers – remedy for clear skin
W Forsythia – light golden hue
W Goldenrod – anti-inflammatory
W Violet Leaf – for rashes & eczema
W Yarrow – tones skin
Shelf Life of Infused Oils

The estimated shelf life of infused oils is around 1 year, though that can vary depending
on the quality of the oils you start with and how well they’re stored. Keep infused oils in
a cool dark area out of direct sunlight. These oils are meant for soapmaking or external
use only and are not meant to be ingested.

Plants‚
NOT to Use, or to Be Aware Of
Toxic Plants
If a plant is edible, then it’s generally safe to use in soap. If a plant is considered
poisonous or toxic to humans (like poinsettias, rhododendron, or lily of the valley),
then you don’t want to use something like that on your skin, unless there’s very good
evidence otherwise.
9 Flowers & Herbs ‚

Not Recommended for Soap
W Azalea – toxic
W Buttercup – toxic
W Foxglove – toxic
W Lily of the Valley – toxic
W Mountain Laurel – toxic
W Nightshade – toxic
W Oleander – toxic
W Poinsettia – toxic
W Rhododendron – toxic
NIGHTSHADE BUTTERCUP

Endangered Plants
Some botanicals are too environmentally precious to use in soap. An example of this
situation is goldenseal, which is an herb that’s been overharvested to the point of
becoming an at-risk plant. It should be saved for use in limited amounts as an herbal
remedy, when truly needed rather than used in a product that washes right down the
drain.
Check the Species at Risk list at United Plant Savers for more vulnerable plants to be
aware of:
https://unitedplantsavers.org/species-at-risk-list/
Other Plants
Some herbs and flowers that you think would turn a wonderful color in soap, don’t hold
their color well in the alkaline environment.
For example, the beautiful red of St. John’s wort oil turns a nondescript brown in soap.
Hibiscus and beetroot are two more that completely lose their gorgeous color when
exposed to the high pH of handmade soap.
You can certainly use St. John’s wort, hibiscus, and beetroot powder in soap, just be
aware that the color will not turn out as you would expect.

— Queens Anne’s Lace Soap —
Here’s an example of a soap I made using flower infused sunflower oil instead of regular
sunflower oil, plus cooled flower tea, instead of plain distilled water.
More often, I infuse olive oil for soapmaking, but in the case of this recipe, I already had
some Queen Anne’s Lace infused sunflower oil I’d previously made for another skin care
recipe, so made use of what I had. Feel free to infuse the olive oil instead.
This recipe is coconut-oil free and high in olive oil, with a low creamy lather that’s
soothing for dry or sensitive skin.
Important Note
Oils, lye, and water/tea are all listed by weight. You must use a scale to make soap.
Ingredients
V
4 oz (113 g) cool Queen Anne’s Lace tea
(2.1:1 water to lye ratio)
V
1.9 oz (54 g) sodium hydroxide (lye)
(5% superfat)
V
Optional: 1 tsp sodium lactate
V
8.5 oz (241 g) olive oil (61%)
V
3 oz (85 g) tucuma seed butter (or
cocoa or kokum instead) (21%)
V
2 oz (57 g) sunflower oil, infused with
Queen Anne’s Lace (14%)
V
0.5 oz (14 g) castor oil (4%)
V
Optional: 5 drops rosemary antioxidants
(rosemary oleoresin extract/ROE)
If you’ve never made soap before, please read my Soapmaking 101 article before
proceeding, or go through the Introductory Guide to Soapmaking in my Soapmaking
Success course.

Directions to Make Queen Anne’s Lace Soap
1. Put on goggles and gloves. The soap batter will probably look very
yellow at this point, but as the soap sits
2. Weigh the cool or cold Queen Anne’s and cures, the color will lighten into a paler
Lace tea into a stainless steel or heavy color.
duty plastic container.
13. Pour soap into molds. (Please see my
3. Weigh the lye into a small cup. Amazon shop for links to the various
molds used in my recipes.)
4. Sprinkle the lye into the cold tea and
stir until dissolved. (Don’t breathe in the 14. Let sit for about 15 minutes, then
temporary, but strong fumes.) cover lightly with a sheet of wax paper
sprayed with baking spray, or a piece
5. It’s normal for the lye solution to turn of parchment paper. (Not overfilling +
a bright yellow color when the lye is waiting + spray/parchment helps keep
added. the soap from sticking to the covering.)
6. Cool the lye solution in a safe spot for 15. Uncover after 24 hours in the mold. Keep
30 – 40 minutes, or until about 100 to 115 the soaps in their mold for 1 to 2 days or
degrees F. until easy to remove. If you used sodium
lactate, they should be ready to unmold
7. Stir in the sodium lactate if using. after the initial 24 hours.
(Sodium lactate helps harden soap and
makes it easier to unmold.) 16. Cure the soaps on sheets of wax paper
in the open air, turning occasionally.
8. Melt the tucuma (or cocoa or kokum) Because this is a coconut-free soap that’s
butter in a small saucepan, then high in olive oil, it will benefit from a
combine with the Queen Anne’s Lace minimum cure of at least 6 to 8 weeks.
infused oil and the other oils.
Tip
9. Stir the rosemary extract into the oils, if
using, to help extend shelf life.
Cure your soap in a dark spot out of
10. Pour the cooled lye solution into the direct sunlight or indoor light to help
warm oils. the soft natural color last as long as
possible.
11. Start by hand stirring the soap.
12. Next, use brief short pulses of the

immersion blender, interspersed with
hand stirring, until soap reaches light
trace. (Don’t run the stick blender
continuously.)

— Triple Bee Balm Soap —
For this recipe, I gathered bee balm flowers and leaves, dried them, then made an oil
infusion and a strong tea. I also had some additional bee balm infused honey on hand
(it’s a good herbal remedy for sore throats), so added that to the mix as well.
Bee balm doesn’t add much color to soap, so a small amount of chlorella powder (a
single celled algae used as a nutritional supplement) is used to give a pretty green color
that softens over time.
Be aware that the soap batter will look very dark green or green-brown when you mix
and pour it into the mold, but it lightens up over time to the color shown in the photo.
g
To Make Bee Balm Infused Honey
Place ¼ cup dried bee balm flowers into a half-pint canning jar. Pour honey over the top
until the jar is almost full, then stir with a chopstick or butter knife to release air bubbles.
Cover with a lid and infuse in a sunny window for 2 weeks. Strain or scoop out the spent
flowers. Besides using in soap, this can be taken by the spoonful for sore throats and
minor colds. (Not for internal use by pregnant women.)

Triple Bee Balm Soap - continued
Important Note
Oils, lye, and water/tea are all listed by weight. You must use a scale to make soap.
Ingredients
V
4.1 oz (116 g) cool Bee Balm tea
(2.1:1 water to lye ratio)
V
1.95 oz (55 g) sodium hydroxide (lye)
(5% superfat)
V
Optional: 1 tsp sodium lactate
V
4 oz (113 g) olive oil, infused with
Bee Balm (29%)
V
3.5 oz (99 g) coconut oil (25%)
V
3 oz (85 g) sunflower oil (21%)
V
2.5 oz (71 g) kokum or refined cocoa
butter (18%)
V
1 oz (28 g) castor oil (7%)
V
1 tsp chlorella powder
V
Optional: 5 drops rosemary antioxidants (rosemary oleoresin extract/ROE)
V
1 tsp honey (optionally infused with bee balm), mixed with 1 tsp water
V
Optional essential oil blend: 7 g lavender, 4 g bergamot, 0.5 g rosemary
If you’ve never made soap before, please read my Soapmaking 101 article before
proceeding, or go through the Introductory Guide to Soapmaking in my Soapmaking
Success course.

Directions to Make Triple Bee Balm Soap
1. Put on goggles and gloves. 13. Stir in the honey and essential oils, if
using.
2. Weigh the cool or cold Bee Balm tea
into a stainless steel or heavy duty The soap batter will look very dark at this
plastic container. point, but as the soap sits and cures, the
color will lighten over time.
3. Weigh the lye into a small cup.
14. Pour soap into molds. (I used beehive
4. Sprinkle the lye into the cold tea and shaped molds from Bramble Berry.)
stir until dissolved. (Don’t breathe in the
temporary, but strong fumes.) 15. Let sit for about 15 minutes, then
cover lightly with a sheet of wax paper
5. It’s normal for the lye solution to turn sprayed with baking spray, or a piece
a bright orange or orange-brown color of parchment paper. (Not overfilling +
when the lye is added. waiting + spray/parchment helps keep
the soap from sticking to the covering.)
6. Cool the lye solution in a safe spot for
30 – 40 minutes, or until about 100 to 115 16. Uncover after 24 hours in the mold. Keep
degrees F. the soaps in their mold for 1 to 2 days or
until easy to remove. If you used sodium
7. Stir in the sodium lactate if using. lactate, they should be ready to unmold
(Sodium lactate helps harden soap and after the initial 24 hours.
makes it easier to unmold.)
17. Cure the soaps on sheets of wax paper
8. Melt the kokum (or cocoa) butter with in the open air, turning occasionally.
the coconut oil in a small saucepan, Handmade soaps should be cured at
then combine with the other oils. least 4 to 6 weeks before using, for best
mildness and lather.
9. Stir in the chlorella powder for color,
and rosemary extract into the oils, if
using, to help extend shelf life. Tip
10. Pour the cooled lye solution into the
warm oils. Cure your soap in a dark spot out of
direct sunlight or indoor light to help
11. Start by hand stirring the soap. the soft natural color last as long as
possible.
12. Next, use brief short pulses of the
immersion blender, interspersed with
hand stirring, until soap reaches light
trace. (Don’t run the stick blender
continuously.)

— Expand Your Soapmaking Knowledge —
Now that you’ve learned some of the ways that you can incorporate herbs and flowers
into your soap recipes, you’re ready to venture forth into creating beautiful nourishing
herbal and floral soaps!
The information in this guide was excerpted from my popular soapmaking course:
soapmaking success
It’s an online class for both beginner and experienced soapmakers who want to level up
their natural soapmaking skills.
The course dives deeper into six areas of soapmaking that can seem extra challenging or
intimidating to soapmakers.
Natural Soap Series:

©thenerdyfarmwife.com 2020
In Soapmaking Success you’ll learn:
Module 1: Success with Fruits & Veggies – Learn to make soaps with
a variety of produce including cucumbers, blueberries, pumpkin,
strawberries, and more!
Module 2: Success with Flowers & Herbs – If you enjoyed the

information in this guide, you’ll love this module. It goes deeper into
even more herbs and flowers to use in your natural soap creations.
Module 3: Success with Alternative Liquids – Learn the best methods

and tips to incorporate milk, vinegar, coffee, wine, and more into soap.
Module 4: Success with Natural Colorants – Using botanicals and

clays, you can tint your soap every color of the rainbow!
Module 5: Success with Simple Soap Designs – This section details

some simple beginner-friendly swirling techniques.
Module 6: Success with Soap Label Design – Learn how to use the
free version of Canva to create custom soap bands for your lovely
new soaps.
Level up your soapmaking skills with this special offer!

Use this link:
https://nerdyfarmwife.teachable.com/p/soapmaking-success/?product_
id=353201&coupon_code=DANDELION10
Or this coupon code:

W dandelion10
W
To receive Soapmaking Success for $10.00 off
its regular price!

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What are some guidelines for using plants in soapmaking?

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How can plants be infused into soap?

IMPORTANT LEGAL STUFF

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold in whole or

Images and text © by Jan Berry I TheNerdyFarmWife.com

Layout and Cover Design by Honey Bee Hill Creatives LLC.

A Special Note Concerning Essential Oils

If you’re pregnant, nursing, taking medication or have health conditions,

Learn to Make Series:

21 Herbs, Flowers, and Weeds ��������������������������������������������������������������� 2

Learn to Make Series:

Learn to Make Series:

1. Bee Balm (Monarda fistulosa) – 4. Chickweed (Stellaria media) – soothing,

2. Calendula (Calendula officinalis) –

3. Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla)

5. Comfrey Leaf (Symphtum officinale) –

6. Dandelion Flowers (Taraxacum

Learn to Make Series:

8. Forsythia Flowers (Forsythia 13. Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis) –

18. Sage (Salvia officinalis) – for normal

Learn to Make Series:

Learn to Make Series:

Learn to Make Series:

Hot Water Infusions (Teas)

Learn to Make Series:

Heat distilled water until simmering or

For a strong tea, steep for several hours

To make a tea with dried plants:

You need even less when making tea

Some herbs, such as dried root pieces

Learn to Make Series:

Learn to Make Series:

You can choose to steep this in the

Just like teas, if you make the cold water

5 Herbs/Flowers to Try in Cold Water Infusions

Learn to Make Series:

The Quick Method

Learn to Make Series:

Fill a heatproof jar to around 1/2 to 3/4

Cover the top with a piece of

The Traditional Slow Method

Learn to Make Series:

Shelf Life of Infused Oils

Learn to Make Series:

9 Flowers & Herbs ‚

Learn to Make Series:

Learn to Make Series:

Learn to Make Series:

12. Next, use brief short pulses of the

Learn to Make Series:

Learn to Make Series:

Learn to Make Series:

Learn to Make Series:

Natural Soap Series:

Module 2: Success with Flowers & Herbs – If you enjoyed the

Module 3: Success with Alternative Liquids – Learn the best methods

Module 4: Success with Natural Colorants – Using botanicals and

21 Herbs, Flowers, and Weeds �� 2