BEAUTY IS OUR BUSINESS MARCH 2019

DAVID RACCUGLIA TURNS HIS LENS ON MEN’S

LOOKS CREATED WITH AMERICAN CREW FIBER
■ IT LIST ■ Spring’s Must-Have Trends for Hair, Color and Nails
■ YOUNG AMERICANS ■ Houston Salon Atelier Isabelle Rose Raises the Bar
■ THINK TANK ■ All in the Family at Rizzieri Salon & Spa ■ TEAR SHEETS
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 CONTENTS MARCH 2019 VOLUME 142, NUMBER 3

departments features
15 22 28 34
■ IT LIST ■ BEAUTY VAULT ■ TEAR SHEETS Mr. Mister
Fabulous finds from Unlocking this Inspirational American Crew founder David
the pop culture scene month’s cutting-edge collections from Raccuglia spotlights the neo-classic
The top spring techniques and the global artists man to celebrate the brand’s 25th
fashion trends to products to create HAIRDOTCOM taps anniversary and growing Fiber family.
know; seashells,
oversized sunnies and
them
The spring 2019 beauty
into global influences
for multitextured 40
fanny packs make a trend guide; Revlon styles in its debut Northern Lights
comeback. Professional sees red; collection. Luminous colors practically shimmer
in Aurora, a collection by UK Hooker
18
TLC for shears.
& Young duo Michelle Rooney and
➤ in every issue
■ THINK TANK
The go-to guide for
27 Editor’s Note 10
Stewart Craig.

■ TALK SHOW Cover Look 12

salon profitability
Young Americans American Dream 44
Atelier Isabelle Rose
Meet Brendnetta
blooms in Houston;
Ashley, national artistic
spring cleaning
educator for The 31
tips for the salon;
Salon by InStyle Inside
Tradiies is the beauty
JCPenney.
professional’s LinkedIn,
but better.
18
27

34
17 23 15
40

6 americansalon.com March 2019

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 EDITORIAL
Editorial Director KELLEY DONAHUE; kdonahue@questex.com
Art Director JORDINO DE LOS SANTOS; jdelossantos@questex.com
Senior Editor KRISTEN HEINZINGER; kheinzinger@questex.com
Social & Digital Editor MICHELLE MCKELVEY; mmckelvey@questex.com

MANAGEMENT
Publisher
BRETT VINOVICH; bvinovich@questex.com

SALES/MARKETING
Eastern Regional Sales Manager
DAVIDE LANUTO; dlanuto@questex.com
Account Manager
KRISTINE COMPTON; kcompton@questex.com

INTERNATIONAL BEAUTY SHOWS PRODUCTION/CIRCULATION

Vice President, IBS Events LIZA WYLIE; 203/227-9875 Audience Development Manager CAROL HATCHER; chatcher@questex.com
To attend IBS New York: 800/427-2420 Publishing Operations Director HAL GARSTEIN; hgarstein@questex.com
To attend IBS Las Vegas: 800/496-9861 Production Specialist LYNN ERDAHL; lerdahl@questex.com
To exhibit at IBS New York or IBS Las Vegas: 212/895-8234 Senior Digital Imaging Specialist JON SHAW; jshaw@questex.com

LIST MANAGEMENT REPRINTS/LICENSING

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ANTHONY CARRATURO; 914/368-1083; ac@meritdirect.com 877/652-5295

Chief Executive Officer PAUL MILLER

Chief Financial Officer DEBRA S. MASON
Chief Marketing Officer KATE SPELLMAN
Group Vice President, Talent Strategy KURT NELSON
Senior Vice President, Performance Marketing RHONDA WUNDERLIN
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Authorization to photocopy items for internal or personal use of specific clients is granted by Questex LLC, for libraries and other users registered with the Copyright Clearance Center (CCC), 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923. Phone:
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8 americansalon.com March 2019

 I feel more connected to
my business with Meevo 2.
I can watch the growth of
my stylists. I can look at my
numbers and I can coach
them anytime.
— MATT BECK
OWNER OF SALON GRATITUDE
FOUNDER OF FREE SALON EDUCATION
MEEVO 2 CLIENT

Prosper with us.

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 editor’s note
CULTURE CLUB
as they celebrate one other. “When someone writes a positive
note about another team member, that sticky note is left on the
board for a month, allowing everyone to read the message,” said
Harrison. “At the end of the month, we hold a raffle and draw one
note. The person who receives the accolade gets a prize, as does
the person who wrote it, which ensures the team participation
remains high and the team supports it.”

4. Salon Nuuvo’s culture also makes learning fun. For example,

product knowledge classes became a team-building exercise
when Harrison created a life-size game resembling Candy Land in
the salon, featuring lollipops, colored ribbons, candy and balloons.
“The questions were focused on product knowledge and the
customer experience, which helped the team learn about the
features and benefits of our products, in addition to our customer
service values,” said Harrison, who also added feel-good prompts

WHILE SERVICE COSTS AND RETAILING are important factors

in running a salon, culture likewise plays a pivotal role and can
make or break a business. “Company culture is the unspoken,
unexplainable presence allowing employees to deliver luxury
services as a united front through consistency while creating a
‘good vibes only’ feel in the salon,” founder and Artistic Director
Raychel Harrison told me during my recent visit to Salon Nuuvo,
her beauty hotspot in Agoura Hills, CA. “Culture is the heart of our
business, and it all starts with who we hire,” she said. “It’s about
finding like-minded people.”

To that end, once Harrison finds staff, she goes above and
beyond, creating a work environment where culture is king—one
that ensures her team feels valued and fulfilled. Here are some of
the practices she’s put into play: like, ‘Tell the person on your left what you love about them.’
1. Every monthly meeting includes an activity that brings the “Everyone learned so much as the questions were being answered
Salon Nuuvo team together. “Sometimes, we take the meeting aloud,” Harrison said.
away from the salon and move to a different location like the Shortly before our visit came to a close, Harrison shared one
local beach, which makes for a fun and relaxed environment,” more important thought with me. “A salon culture is the only
Harrison said. genuinely unique identifier,” she said. “It’s like a fingerprint—it may
2. Last summer, Harrison closed Salon Nuuvo on a Monday for be similar to others, but it is uniquely distinct for each business,
Nuuvo Ditch Day. “We let our hair down, had a beach potluck directly impacting the customer experience. Everything else can be
and gave out T-shirts that said, ‘Don’t Be a Dirty Beach,’ and replicated, but the only truly unique identifiers are the values and
conducted a beach clean-up for the first 30 minutes of the day,” norms of our organization—its culture, or personality. A strong team
she said. Team members and their friends won prizes from local culture can differentiate a salon from its competitors and take the
businesses valued at more than $250 and collectively picked customer experience to the next level.” Sage words, indeed.
up 55-plus pounds of trash. “Having time away from the salon —Kelley Donahue, editorial director, kdonahue@questex.com
allowed us to get to know each other on a personal level while
doing something positive for our community,” she said.
PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY

3. As a surprise for her team, Harrison converted a spare salon

room into a team lounge overnight, incorporating dim lights,
aromatherapy misters, adult coloring books and interactive goal-
setting charts so employees have a place to recharge and relax
in-between client visits. One of the walls acts as an inspirational
appreciation station, which allows team members to harmonize

10 americansalon.com March 2019

Creating iconic looks for 100 years
 cover look
BEAUTY IS OUR BUSINESS MARCH 2019

BEST MAN
THE HOUR WAS EARLY and the day hot last July when
David Raccuglia—the man most credit with making men’s
DAVID RACCUGLIA TURNS HIS LENS ON MEN’S
LOOKS CREATED WITH AMERICAN CREW FIBER
■ IT LIST ■ Spring’s Must-Have Trends for Hair, Color and Nails
■ YOUNG AMERICANS ■ Houston Salon Atelier Isabelle Rose Raises the Bar

grooming mainstream—took to the streets of Brooklyn,

■ THINK TANK ■ All in the Family at Rizzieri Salon & Spa ■ TEAR SHEETS

NY, for a shoot with American Crew Global Artistic

Director Paul Wilson. It was familiar territory for the
American Crew founder, who’d shot there previously with
American Salon in 1994. “Back then, I was on location in
New York City launching American Crew,” says Raccuglia.
“I was the hairdresser—the barber doing the hair.”
Flash-forward 25 years later and Raccuglia now
finds himself behind the lens, capturing emblematic
images that have helped propel the American Crew
brand skyward. “Paul, the team and I wanted to kick
off Crew’s 25th anniversary and celebrate Fiber’s
newest additions [Fiber Grooming Foam and Fiber
Cream] by going back out in the streets and doing
what came naturally to us—shooting urban men in their
environment,” says Raccuglia. “For this shoot, the hair
looks for the guys are a little bit longer and more natural
looking. There’s a bit of a ’90s vibe to them. When Crew
launched, hair was very classic, still had a lot of product
in it and looked vintage-inspired, but it wasn’t as shorn
as these barbershop looks have become over the years.
What we’re doing is reintroducing some of the vision we
had for hair back then. I was always very inspired by ’90s
Armani. I still think that there is nothing more masculine
and relevant than what Giorgio Armani did then, and I’m
sensing that’s going to have some relevance again.”
To get the hair just right for the shoot, Wilson
created an exaggerated pomp on our cover model. He
used a clipper-over-comb method to establish the sides
and back, and freehand clipper work to create the taper.
“The entire top was overdirected to maintain maximum
length,” says Wilson. To achieve the sustained elevation,
the detail work on top was applied aggressively with
sawtooth razor-cutting. A heavy dose of Fiber Grooming
Foam was worked into damp hair before it was blow-
dried up and back. For the finishing touches, Wilson
called on Boost Powder and Boost Cream.
After getting all his shots, Raccuglia took time to
reflect on the day. “This shoot made me realize that
my photography skill-set has been very good for Crew
because it’s not a photographer looking through the
camera and trying to capture a great men’s picture—it’s
a barber looking through the camera,” says Raccuglia.
“That was a great moment for me—merging what I did
25 years ago with the expertise I’ve acquired over that
same time frame.”—Kelley Donahue

FROM TOP David Raccuglia gets his

shot; Fiber Cream and Fiber Grooming
PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY

Foam are the latest additions to the

American Crew Fiber lineup; the
streets of NYC served as the backdrop
for the shoot; a behind-the-scenes
video celebrating American Crew’s
25th anniversary.
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 IT LIST ■
BRAVE
new
WORLD
INDIVIDUALITY, ESCAPISM and an
emphasis on neo-femininity was the
message, loud and clear, on the spring/
summer 2019 runways, where there was
something to satisfy every style craving.
The statement-maker might fancy
the dramatic, overflowing sleeves at
Valentino or the frothy plumes at Marc
VALENTINO Jacobs. For the risk-taker, why doesn’t
she give Oscar de la Renta’s peek-a-boo
crochet or the futuristic fishnet pieces
from Louis Vuitton a go? As for the free
spirit, well, she has plenty to pine for,
particularly the easy-breezy silhouettes
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
and boho silk scarf prints from Etro.
Take your pick.—Kristen Heinzinger

ETRO
PHOTOGRAPHY: IMAXTREE

MARC JACOBS

LOUIS VUITTON

March 2019 americansalon.com 15

MEMBERSHIP
THAT’S RIGHT
FOR you.

JO
Stylist
Art + Science Salon
MEMBER
SINCE 2017

You’re going to invest a lot of time, sweat, blood and tears. Be patient and
trust the process. In the end, know that it’s going to be worth it.

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 IT LIST ■
BIG WIGS
DRAG’S UNIQUE INFLUENCE on pop culture is
profiled in Frank DeCaro’s soon-to-be-released
Drag: Combing Through the Big Wigs of
Show Business (Rizzoli, May 2019). In addition

SURF’S UP
THE NOSTALGIC SHELL jewelry trend that took the fashion
world by storm last year has again swept the Spring/Summer
2019 runways. Designers like Anna Sui, Etro (seen here) and
Michael Kors played up the beach-comber vibe, showcasing
everything from shell-shaped rings to pukka shell necklaces
to crystal- and faux pearl-adorned cowries.—KD

to showcasing 100-plus photos—many from

performers’ personal collections—the tome is
packed with interviews and commentaries from
popular artists, including Bianca Del Rio, Miss Coco
Peru, Hedda Lettuce, Lypsinka and Varla Jean
SIGHT TO BEHOLD
THE BIGGER THE BETTER sums
Merman, on the dramas, joys and love that “make-up”
up designers’ current vision for
a life in wigs and heels. rizzoliusa.com—KD
sunglasses this season. Loewe
(seen here), Stella McCartney,
Gucci, Miu Miu and Tom Ford
all gave a nod to mega-lenses,
emphasizing everything from
wraparound surf style to an X-girl vibe.—KD
PHOTOGRAPHY: IMAXTREE (SIGHT TO BEHOLD, FAN CLUB)

FAN CLUB
WHAT’S OLD IS NEW AGAIN. The fanny pack—a perennial favorite among tourists—is surging
in popularity. This time around, the ’90s accessory staged a comeback on the spring runways,
with models wearing it crossbody or around the waist, like at Alexander Wang. Whatever your
preference, the functional bag has earned high-fashion cred for cool-girl and -guy styling.—KD

March 2019 americansalon.com 17

THINK TANK ■

PREPARE FROM CUSTOM-CRAFTED

TO OOH &AAH
CAPPUCCINOS AND A CANDY
AND SNACK BAR TO
TOP-DRAWER ARTISTS AND
SERVICES, ATELIER ISABELLE
ROSE AIMS TO PLEASE.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP

LEED-approved white oak hardwood
floors run throughout the space; the
salon’s color bar; salon owner Rian
18 americansalon.com February 2019 LaFleur and his niece, Isabelle Rose.
R
The Atelier’s glass storefront provides
ian LaFleur often gets asked why he plenty of natural light; the colorful nail
decided to open his own salon. His department; a state-of-the art backbar
ensures the ultimate relaxation;
answer is every bit as authentic as he massage and skincare services take
is. “I’ve always believed that Houston deserved place in a private sanctuary.

something beyond the typical salon experience,”

says LaFleur. “As I traveled the world and saw
the creations, environments and cultures other
artists got to work in, it made me realize what
was missing in the nation’s fourth-largest city.
Atelier Isabelle Rose fills that void. In addition to
showering Houstonians with first-class service,
it also serves as a hotbed of creativity for its
resident artists.”

Named in honor of LaFleur’s only

niece, Isabelle Rose, whose mother, Rachel,
convinced LaFleur to go to beauty school, the
3,800-square-foot space is located in Houston’s
Upper Kirby district, which is nestled between
the prestigious River Oaks neighborhood and
Rice University. “I chose the location because
it’s one of the fastest-growing, trendiest and
most luxurious areas of Houston,” says LaFleur,
who serves as a master color expert, master
stylist and portfolio brand educator for Wella
Professionals as well as the Atelier’s artistic
director and founder.

Design-wise, LaFleur wanted to create a

simple, chic space that underscored elegance yet
still had a relaxed feel. High-end touches include
carbon-reducing LED lighting above styling
stations and inset into mirrors that allow for
perfect color placement; Takara Belmont styling
chairs with Tempur-Pedic seating; Gamma &
Bross shampoo bowls, styling stations, pedicure
chairs and massage tables; and a feature wall in
the shampoo area featuring silver wave granite.
“Our goal was to create exclusive experiences
for our guests with our styling stations, luxurious
shampoo suites, color bar and private nail suite,”
says LaFleur.

Beyond a gorgeous interior, Atelier Isabelle

Rose boasts a menu of signature services that
helps to attract new guests and keep them
coming back. Top offerings include the System
Professional Energy Code Treatment that
takes place on a massage bed equipped with
a shampoo sink and involves a massage and
steamer experience. “As a Wella portfolio salon,
we provide clients with custom maintenance
PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY

programs and the latest technology and

techniques for every step of their beauty
journey,” says LaFleur, who also relies on Google
AdWords, Yelp, Facebook, Instagram, Culture
Map, Demandforce and local print to boost his
clientele base. “We are dedicated to elevating
the salon experience,” he adds.—Kelley Donahue
March 2019 americansalon.com 19
 K K
824 610
AMERICAN_SALON
@ AMERICANSALON
 THINK TANK ■
TOOL OF THE TRADIIES
NIKKI DOMINGUEZ, A NEW YORK CITY-BASED HAIRSTYLIST,
and her sister April, who is in tech solutions, don't come across as
natural business partners. But when Nikki was venting frustrations
about hiring for a salon, and her sister suggested using LinkedIn,
Nikki explained a site like that didn't work for beauty pros, which
begged the question: Why not? Enter Tradiies, a networking
platform created specifically for the beauty industry. Individuals
SPRING INTO ACTION
can create profiles, which encompass education, awards and past THE SPRING SEASON
salon employers, and chart growth from beauty school student to IS AN OPPORTUNITY
professional. “A Tradiies portfolio is not a social media profile with to clean out closets,
a gallery of work—it shows an entire career,” April says. straighten up the yard
and do typical spring-
Tradiies also allows pros to describe their personality and
cleaning exercises. Why
culture, and has a section for endorsements. “Yelp is for business
not follow that lead in
owners only, and social media is not a professional setting to
your salon? John Harms,
give recommendations,” April says. “Tradiies encourages the
Millennium Systems
salon owner to give
International founder
an acknowledgment,
and CEO, shares how
like, ‘She is excellent
salons can “clean up”
at balayage and
software and realign
consulting and
inventory.
customer service.’
It also allows P Inventory Count: So many businesses allow inventory
individuals to give to get out of whack or have never done a full count.
acknowledgments Use your software’s inventory count feature to organize
April and Nikki Dominguez
to their colleagues by manufacturer. Then you can utilize features like
or educators, like, ‘They really inspired me in the growth of my “automatic purchase order” and put slow-moving
career, and I'm more passionate because of it.’” products on sale.

Likewise, salons are able to create business profiles where P Model Quantities and Order Points: Check your settings
they can post jobs. “This allows beauty pros to see the salon’s for the model quantity (full stock) and order points (flag
team members, the products they carry, the location, the hours that let’s you know it’s time to reorder). You don’t want
and what they’re looking for in an employee, plus photos to get to under-order, but old inventory or too much inventory is
an idea of the work environment,” Nikki says. A beauty pro’s like locking money in a drawer.
profile is sent to the salon like a digital resume, including a
portfolio of work, acknowledgments and skill sets. “Our goal is to
P Client Outreach: Get in touch with clients who haven’t
been in for over 120 days. Come up with a spring
get the entire salon industry to start acknowledging each other,
promotion, like offering a free product or a discounted
recognizing each other and uplifting each other through the app,”
service.
she adds. tradiies.com—KH
P Goal-Setting: If you haven’t set your employees’ goals
in your software, take the time to do so. Most software
have abilities to set monthly goals and some can translate
down to daily goals. This motivates your employees and
lets them know how they’re doing.

P Rebook Percentage: Analyze your rebook percentage and

set a daily goal. It’s the key to increased frequency of visit.
Don’t ask the client for an appointment date—utilize your
software to know which openings make sense and offer
those. If your software provides chairside checkout or
mobile rebook capabilities, let the service provider book
an appointment before the client reaches the front desk.

P Use Help: Most software companies offer documentation

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY

and free educational videos on best practices. Spend time

looking into them and bring back nuggets of information
to your next team huddle. millenniumsi.com—KH

March 2019 americansalon.com 21

 TREND
BEAUTY VAULT ■

REPORT BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER

COLOR
It girls like Hailey Bieber have already tried it, and the
runways agree—pastel haircolor is in for spring. At Marc
Jacobs’ Spring 2019 show, Redken Global Color Creative
Director Josh Wood (@joshwoodcolor) dyed models’ hair
vintage pastel hues using Shades EQ and City Beats. “Marc
didn’t want a ‘fun’ pastel; he wanted an aged, vintage pastel,
like a grown-up pastel with a shadow root, which helps hair
from looking like a wig while keeping it modern,” Wood says.

PHOTOGRAPHY: IMAXTREE
BEST TRESSED
MARC JACOBS

“This is a color revolution.

The fear of changing color is gone.”
—Josh Wood, Redken Global Color
THE SPRING RUNWAYS WERE BLOSSOMING WITH Creative Director

HAIRCOLOR, STYLING AND ACCESSORIES INSPIRATION.

HERE, KEY LOOKS TO RECREATE IN THE SALON.

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

STYLING
There is no doubt that braids
are maintaining status as a
styling favorite this season.
Long rope-like plaits have
NONIE
mod appeal, but the look
hairstylist Anthony Turner
(@anthonyturnerhair)
created at Giambattista
Valli’s Spring 2019 Couture
show is the perfect balance
of feminine and edgy. Thick,
low braids were tied with a

ACCESSORIES
band of hair and funneled
into a razor-cut end,
resembling a tassel. Gone are the days of hiding pins in the hair. Over-
the-top accessories are all the rage, whether it be an
elaborate headband or exposed bobby pins in eye-catching
designs, like celebrity stylist Justine Marjan’s
22 americansalon.com March 2019 (@justinemarjan) creation at the Nonie Spring 2019 show.
 EMBELLISHED CLEAR MANICURES are having a moment, and you
can expect the trend to continue into spring. Take a cue from the glass-
inspired nails the CND Design Team created at Mary Katrantzou’s Spring
2019 runway show. Manicures were clean and polished, but far from boring,
ranging from avant-garde glass-blown nail bubble encasements to silver
halo nails (seen here), a clear nail embellished with two silver half frames.

OPI
HOW DOES YOUR ZEN
GARDEN GROW?

MARY KATRANTZOU

MORGAN TAYLOR
FOLLOW THE PETALS

ZOYA
NAILING IT
FERN
KEEP CLIENTS ON-TREND WITH SHIMMERING OR GLOSSY PASTEL
POLISHES AND NEW TWISTS ON NAIL ART.

JIN SOON
TWEETY

LIKE THE FLOWERS THAT BLOOM, nail polish collections will be popping up in pastel shades this time of the
year. “In the winter we go for heavier coverage with opaques and glitters, but in spring we lighten it up with
sheers, pastels and glosses,” says Essie celebrity manicurist Michelle Saunders (@michellesaundersjames).
“This year’s collections offer a dose of fun, are high-gloss or have a subtle sheen that pops in the sun.” Try a
different color on each nail to create a rainbow of possibilities, tip each nail like a colorful French manicure, or
sponge a few colors onto the nail to give a soft texture to the manicure, Saunders suggests.

ESSIE
TIERS OF JOY
UNISTELLA.COM (PUT A RING ON IT); ALL OTHERS COURTESY

PUT A RING ON IT
PHOTOGRAPHY: IMAXTREE (MARY KATRANTZOU);

INSTAGRAM FAVORITE AND one of Korea’s most sought-after nail artists

Eunkyung Park recently took on a new project: nail jewelry. Named Unistella
Jewelry after her Seoul salon and Instagram account @nail_unistella (”uni” for
“unique” and “stella,” the Latin word for “star”), the creations are crafted from
sterling silver-plated white and 14k gold, and several come with the option to add
a Swarovski crystal gem. “I’ve always been interested in futuristic nails,” Park says.
“I looked back and thought about the things I’ve struggled with while doing nail
art and tried to approach the essential parts of it in a more wearable way. That’s
how the nail jewelry came to life.” The jewelry, which ranges in price from $25 to
around $135, is the perfect add-on to any manicure, easily dressing it up, if only
for the day. unistella.com

March 2019 americansalon.com 23

BEAUTY VAULT ■

WARMING TREND
AS THE DAYS GROW LONGER, hair is heating up, with rich reds, auburns
and vibrant copper hues taking center stage. Right on cue, Revlon
Professional has unveiled its Redvolution color collection, created with the
new Color Sublime by Revlonissimo, a permanent ammonia-free haircolor
range that can be mixed with enticing fragrances. Here’s how Miquel
García Cotado, a member of the Revlon Professional Artistic Team, got the
crimson look seen here:

1. Apply Revlonissimo Colorsmetique 66.60 to the roots and on top

for depth, making sure the color application on the top root is
uneven for a more interesting result.
2. In the fringe area, create a diagonal flashlight effect by mixing
Revlonissimo Colorsmetique 77.40 with Cromatics C46.
3. For enhancement, apply Revlonissimo Colorsmetique 55.20 to the
left corner of the fringe, using transparent papers for a clean
and precise application. Blend all shades thoroughly to avoid
bands or stains.
4. Apply Revlonissimo Colorsmetique 66.60 to the remaining hair.
5. Once the hair has processed, cleanse it with Revlonissimo
Post Color Shampoo before treating it with Revlonissimo Anti
Porosity Milk.
6. To finish, apply Style Masters Lissaver to wet hair, then blow-
dry and style, keeping strands flat in some sections while
creating volume in others, before misting the design with
Style Masters Shine Glamourama Spray and Modular Hairspray.
revlonprofessional.com—KD

CUT THE TENSION

WHEN IT COMES TO CUTTING, skill can only get you so far—stylists

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY (WARMING TREND); GETTY IMAGES (CUT THE TENSION)

should also keep in mind the maintenance that goes into shears. “In
order to ensure that your shears are performing at their best, you
really should do two things every day—clean them and adjust the
tension,” says Andrew Carruthers, education director for Sam Villa.
With today’s blade designs, a little more tension is better
than too loose, Carruthers notes. Setting tension too low can cause
hair to fold or push out of the shear, while setting it too high can
shorten the life of the edge. What’s more, extra pressure is needed
to open and close the shear, which contributes to repetitive stress
injuries. “The tension should be perfectly even from the pivot to
tips. If you can’t achieve that with adjustments, it could be that
you’ve been working with improper tension for too long and your
shears need to be professionally serviced,” says Carruthers.
To set the tension, clean and lubricate the shears. With
shears fairly loose (one or two clicks of tension screw back), hold
the thumb grip and take the finger portion about 45 degrees
up to where blades connect. Then drop the finger side. If it
goes down, it’s too loose—turn adjuster to the right one click
to tighten. Repeat this exercise until the open finger section is
dropped and doesn’t move.—KH

24 americansalon.com March 2019

 BEAUTY VAULT ■
1
2

3 5

1. MATRIX TOTAL RESULTS KEEP ME VIVID

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2. HOT TOOLS PROFESSIONAL BEE
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3. CHI ALOE VERA CURL REACTIVATING

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4. KÉRASTASE BLOND ABSOLU MASQUE

ULTRA-VIOLET is a neutralizing, intensive
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kerastase-usa.com

5. ECRU NEW YORK DRY SHAMPOO

features a unique blend of ingredients
including charcoal to absorb and detoxify,
aloe to refresh and calm the scalp, and
PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY; WRITING: MICHELLE MCKELVEY

chamomile to soothe skin. ecrunewyork.com

6. JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS NEURO

8
6
RESHAPE HEATCTRL MEMORY STYLER is
a long-lasting, reshapable memory cream
that transforms curls to straight strands
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TAKE STOCK
thermal styling tools. paulmitchell.com

7. ORIBE CÔTE D’AZUR REFINING HAND

SCRUB gently exfoliates with particles of
pumice stone, while a blend of natural oils
leaves skin feeling hydrated and scented with
the signature Côte d’Azur fragrance. oribe.com

8. R+CO GEMSTONE COLOR SHAMPOO

has been reformulated with a blend of
EIGHT PRODUCTS YOU JUST HAVE TO CHECK OUT
ingredients like sunflower sprout and okra
seed extracts to lock in color for up to 10
washes. randco.com
March 2019 americansalon.com 25
 TAYLOR
Beacon Alumni
MEMBER
SINCE 2017

I am a professional. I am licensed.
I am

The beauty industry needs your support to

protect cosmetology licensing from deregulation.

Text PROBEAUTY to 52886

 TALK SHOW ■
Young Americans
BRENDNETTA ASHLEY

A
fter spending a good part of her childhood watching her
grandmother work at a hair salon, Brendnetta Ashley
(@edgypynkgirl) knew she was destined for the beauty
industry and chased her dreams until she landed her
first job as a stylist at The Salon by InStyle Inside JCPenney. Now,
Ashley is one of six national artistic educators for the brand, but
she’s not losing sight of where she started.—Michelle McKelvey

AHA MOMENT
I grew up watching my grandmother do hair, and I loved how
BRENDNETTA she was always uplifting her clients and making them feel
ASHLEY
special. I knew from a young age that I wanted to impact
people’s lives in the same way.

TRAINING DAYS
I love finishing and styling, and I took some advanced courses
on those techniques with [updo artist and educator] Sharon
Blain to master my craft.

CLAIM TO FAME
Presenting at Premiere Orlando on The Salon by InStyle stage
was a huge moment for me. And, of course, being named a
national artistic educator with The Salon by InStyle.

SOCIAL BUTTERFLY
You can follow me on Instagram at @edgypynkgirl.

WORDS TO LIVE BY
“Follow your passion; it will lead to your purpose.”—Oprah
Winfrey

SECRET WEAPONS
I can’t leave my house without Matrix Style Link Texture
Builder Messy Finish Spray. It adds the perfect amount of grit
to work the hair in any way you need to.

MY MENTORS
I’ve always been inspired by powerful women hairstylists,
especially Michelle O’Connor and Dilek Onur Taylor, creative
directors at The Salon by InStyle.

BUCKET LIST
I’d love to work at New York Fashion Week and submit a
collection for the North American Hairstyling Awards.

BRIGHT FUTURE
PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY

As an educator, I hope to continue to inspire other

hairstylists, perfect my craft and uplift my clients with
amazing hair!

March 2019 americansalon.com 27

TEAR SHEETS ■

International
Intrigue Global influences
combine with texture
and movement in
these takes from
HAIRDOTCOM.

TAKE ELEMENTS
from Italian elegance,
mix them with a bit of
British rawness, and now
you’ve got the inspiration
behind HAIRDOTCOM’s debut
collection. “We wanted to explore
multitextures—from root-shadowed
blondes and disheveled waves to
deep bangs and catwalk ponies—all
on a neutral color palette to showcase
commercial fashion elements as well as
create a consumer identity,” say Craig Chapman
and Ashleigh Hodges, directors and owners of
HAIRDOTCOM, an organization that aims to
change the face of the hairdressing industry with
an art team comprised of talented hairdressers
from around the world working in session TV and
fashion segments. “HAIRDOTCOM is all about
education. We wanted a transferable collection
that sits well not only in the hair industry but also
on the high street.”—Kelley Donahue

28 americansalon.com
americansalon.com February
March 2019
2019
PHOTOGRAPHY: BARRY JEFFERY; MAKEUP: ELIZABETH RITA; FASHION STYLING: MAGDALENA JACOBS

OPPOSITE PAGE To create

this short pixie shape,
the team colored the hair,
leaving it darker in the crown
area for depth, before using
a point-cutting technique to
create heavy, textured fringe.

THIS PAGE After enhancing

the hair with multiple hues,
the art team used the GHD
Curve Classic Wave Wand
to create this textured, sexy
shape, breaking down the
undulating waves with their
hands for added softness. February 2019 americansalon.com 29
This textured bowl
cut with a deep,
heavy fringe was
shattered with a razor
to produce a super-
soft finish before the
art team stenciled
over the crown and
fringe areas to create
a unique root shadow.

30 americansalon.com February 2019

 TEAR SHEETS ■
“Polished low ponies
are beautiful, but
banding the length
with wrapped elastic
is even more modern,”
says Chapman. For
this look, the art team
loosened the hair
between the elastic
and left a soft, airy
front hairline to create
the ultimate finish.

March 2019 americansalon.com

February 31
To make this long black
hair look even stronger,
the art team clipper-
cut a short, deep bang
before using a channel-
cutting technique on
the midlengths and
ends for soft texture.
For the finishing touch,
they crimped a deep
V into the hair at
cheek level to amplify
movement.

32 americansalon.com March
February
2019
2019
We G o t a
Mak e o v e r

Head to

ok
to see our new lo
AMERICAN CREW
MARKS A MAJOR
MILESTONE WITH NEW
ADDITIONS TO ITS
FIBER FAMILY AND AN
ICONIC COLLECTION
THAT REDEFINES THE
CLASSIC MAN.

Mr. Mister
American Crew has plenty of reasons to celebrate this year. In addition to commemorating its 25th anniversary, the
company’s successful Fiber brand has grown to include two new products: Fiber Cream and Fiber Grooming Foam.
What’s more, founder David Raccuglia recently teamed up with Global Artistic Director Paul Wilson to create a
new body of work—seen exclusively on these pages—that’s diverse, strong, stylish and innovative. “We are in an
awesome time in the evolution of men’s hair,” says Wilson. “We’ve seen barbering become an art form, and men
are reaping the benefits. This collection gives us the opportunity to showcase the American Crew perspective on
how trend meets classic using Fiber Grooming Foam and Fiber Cream as well as classic Fiber. They’re the perfect
tools to tell the story of how groomed finishes and natural textures work in unison.”

Photographer DAVID RACCUGLIA Editor KELLEY DONAHUE

34 americansalon.com March 2019

 OPPOSITE PAGE
Paul Wilson complements the era
of aggressive clipper work with this
textured yet controlled shape cut
entirely with a razor. After detailing
the look with isolated slide-cutting
for support and movement, he
MAKEUP: ERIN LEE SMITH; FASHION STYLING: WILLIAM GRAPER

applied a moderate dosage of

Fiber Cream to damp hair, then
loosely blow-dried it with a Mason
Pearson brush to control yet
maintain its natural wave.

THIS PAGE
For this classic pompadour with
extra texture, Wilson performed
clipper-over-comb and moderate
freehand clipper work on the
bottom half transitions to the
overdirection on top to create
a natural disconnection. After
applying Fiber Grooming Foam
on damp hair, shaping it with a
blow-dryer and brushing it for
height, he used classic Fiber over
the surface for added texture.
 “This familiar classic pomp look
has a liberal amount of detail
work to create movement and a
sustainable shape,” says Wilson,
who shear-cut the sides and
back with vertical sections. After
horizontally connecting and
overdirecting the top for the
perfect balance of length retention
and weight removal, Wilson used a
razor to directionally build support.
He then worked Fiber Grooming
Foam throughout damp hair
before styling it with Fiber Cream.
 To achieve this look, which
was inspired by the boxer
from American Crew’s
Master of Men’s Grooming
educational series, Wilson
razor-cut vertical sections
through the sides and
back, then moved on to
rotating sections in the
transition and top with
sawtooth point-cutting
for aggressive texture.
He achieved detailing
with a razor, and applied
a heavy dose of Fiber on
damp hair before loosely
pushing it into place.

March 2019 americansalon.com 37

 To create this look, Wilson
shear-cut the shape, retaining
a moderate amount of length
while building the bottom half
of the cut. After applying Fiber
Cream to damp hair, he blow-
dried it and coaxed it into
38 americansalon.com March 2019 shape with a Denman brush.
 For this look, Wilson
shear-cut vertical sections
through the sides and back,
overdirecting low in the
transition and creating a
natural disconnection. He cut
the top, overdirecting to the
stationary guide, before using a
shear-over-comb technique low
to finish the perimeter. Next,
he applied Fiber Grooming
Foam to damp hair and used
a Denman brush and a blow-
dryer to create a controlled
base throughout the sides
and back, then he used his
fingers to elevate the top and
maintain natural texture before
reapplying Fiber Grooming
Foam to complete the look.
 Northern
Lights
A NEW BODY OF WORK FROM
MICHELLE ROONEY AND STEWART CRAIG CAPTIVATES
WITH DRAMATIC HUES AND ENTRANCING MAKEUP.

When creating their Aurora collection, seen here, Michelle Rooney and Stewart Craig, who hail from Hooker & Young—five
luxe salons in Newcastle and North East England—relied heavily on texture to allow light to pass through the hair. “We
played with color formations to create luminosity and shade in strands that resembled the shimmer and sparkle in the sun,”
says the duo, whose artistry earned them a finalist spot in the North Eastern Hairdresser of the Year category at the British
Hairdressing Awards 2018. “Overall, the looks are beautiful but mysterious—they personify what it means to be an enigma.”

Photographer MICHAEL YOUNG Editor KELLEY DONAHUE

40 americansalon.com March 2019

 OPPOSITE PAGE
Michelle Rooney and
Stewart Craig relied on
strong edges, super-
short fringe, and mini
mid-ombré panels of
soft lilac, green and
blue to put a twist on
the classic bob.

THIS PAGE
After cutting the hair
into an androgynous
waif shape and
imbuing it with a
platinum blonde hue,
Rooney and Craig
finished the look,
lifting the front to
make a strong style
statement.
MAKEUP: KIRSTEN BAILLIE
For this look featuring
a short perimeter with
extended top layers,
Rooney and Craig
prelightened the color,
leaving a dark root
offset by alternative
panels of soft peach
and pale pink for a
dreamy iridescent
blush hue.
Working with a color
palette of varying
shades of soft green,
Rooney and Craig
transformed a classic
bob with deep waves
and colorful, light-
reflecting hues.

March 2019 americansalon.com 43

american dream

HERITAGE FRANK RIZZIERI,

BRAND A THIRD-GENERATION SALON OWNER,

TELLS HIS FAMILY STORY AND WHERE IT’S HEADED.

“
T
hey always say the third generation Today, the business has five-plus
ruins the business, so I’m trying locations between salon/spas and schools,
to work through that stereotype,” and Frank still works alongside his parents—
Frank Rizzieri jokes. In fact, since taking over Sal hops between different salons, and Anna
the beauty business his grandfather, Franco teaches finger waving at the school and signs
Cipriotti, began in 1924, he has expanded it the checks. The family’s strong values is the
enormously. Franco came to the U.S. from secret to the salon’s longevity, Frank says.
Italy and owned a farm in Pennsylvania “Sometimes when new generations take over,
before opening a barbering school. He saw they have a different work ethic or attitude
that women’s hairdressing was about to from the core principles the business was
take off, so he opened a cosmetology school founded on,” Frank says. “My core principles
in Philadelphia called Maison de Paris. His are the same: work really hard, treat people
business thrived, and even survived the Great well and give back.” Those tenets also checked
Depression—“actually, he said it was the most the boxes to become an Aveda Concept Salon.
money he’d ever made because women still “I remember sitting with [Aveda founder]
got their hair done,” Frank says. In the late Horst [Rechelbacher] in his house in Wisconsin
’30s, the cosmetology school moved to in a snowstorm and showing him the plans
New Jersey, the first in the state. Frank’s for the new business,” Frank says. “It’s been a
mother, Anna, taught there, and it’s where 25-plus-year relationship, and counting.” After
she met her husband, Sal Rizzieri—he all, the Rizzieris know a thing or two about
emigrated from Italy in 1959 and attended long-term relationships.—Kristen Heinzinger
the cosmetology school.

Joining the family business was

nonnegotiable, despite teenage dreams of
becoming a fighter pilot, but Frank grew
to the love the industry. “When I got my
head around being a hairdresser, I told my
dad, I want to do more,” he says. “We had
to come to an agreement—I was going to
build something different, or I was going to
leave. I took the opportunity to diversify the
business, develop products, brand it, and
open in New York and Florida. We took it CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Rizzieri Salon &
Spa at Moorestown Mall, NJ; Rizzieri salons
from salons to schools to medical spas. have partnered with Aveda for over 25
I’m looking into distribution and expanding years; Frank Rizzieri; Franco’s Barbering is
an homage to Frank’s grandfather; Franco
the medical spa, and I’m getting closer to Cipriotti, who started the family business
having salon owner employees who will be in the ’20s; Maison de Paris was New
Jersey’s first cosmetology school; inside the
my partners.” Moorestown, NJ location.

44 americansalon.com March 2019

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