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c tion s to
Instru ova ble
a m
make ded!
inc lu
head

Skill level C RO C HE T P A T TE R N B Y

Intermediate: You need to know how to single crochet, slip stitch,

make a magic ring, how to increase, decrease, crochet in the back
loop only, sew an open piece to a closed one.

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 Abbreviations in US terms Materials
• Sport weight yarn - I used Phildar Phil
st stitch(es) coton 3 (less than a 50 gr skein of each
slst slip stitch color)
sc single crochet
Note: You can use any yarn you wish, just
MR magic ring keep in mind that you’ll need to adapt
rep repeat previous round instructions your crochet hook size, and that the fin-
rnd round ished amigurumi size will vary.
inc make 2 sc in the next stitch (in-
--Gray
crease)
--White or off-white
dec single crochet 2 stitches together --Orange
(I use the invisible decrease tech-
nique but it’s not absolutely re- • A 2.5 mm hook (C/2)
quired)
BLO back loop only • A tapestry needle (or yarn needle)
FO fasten off
• A stitch marker
inv.FO invisible finish of (see page 4)

Inv.CC invisible color change (see page 4) • Stuffing (fiberfill)

spst spike stitch (see page 3) • 6 and 9 mm black safety eyes (note: If
you change the yarn and hook used, you’ll
(...,...)*x repeat “x” number of times the
have to adapt the size of the safety eyes
instructions indicated between
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too)
brackets

Approx size: 9 cm high (3.5 inches)

General instructions
• This pattern is worked in continuous round: do not join or turn unless stated otherwise.

• Mark the last stitch of the round with your stitch marker in order to check that you’ve
made the right amount of stitches in the round.

• You’ll see that the increases and decreases of the pattern are shifted every other row. This
is to avoid the small line that shows when you keep on making your increases and de-
creases at the same place.

• If you print this pattern, you can tick the O to help you get your bearings.

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 Special stitch: the spike stitch (spst)

1 2 3
Note!
In this particular
pattern, you will
always skip the stitch
behind the spike stitch
you’ve just made.

Basically, a spike stitch is an elongated single crochet: rather than inserting your hook in the next
stitch as you would normally do, insert it in one row below the one you’re working on (or more
rows if so stated, i.e “sp.st2” means spike stitch 2 rows below) -(picture 1), then continue as you
would normally do with a single crochet (pictures 2-3).

Surface slip stitch

1 2 3 4
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5 6

Insert your hook where you want your surface slip stitch to begin (picture 1) and yarn over, pull the
yarn through the stitches, you now have a loop on your hook (picture 2) . Insert your hook between
the 2 stitches next to your loop and slip stitch (picture 3). Continue like so until you’ve reached the
desired length (pictures 4-5).
Don’t forget to weave in the ends, especially at the beginning of the surface slip stitch to avoid
unraveling. Both sides of the surface slip stitch can be used (see pictures 5 and 6 to see the dif-
ference).

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 Invisible finish (Inv.FO) and Invisible color change (Inv.CC)

1 2 3 4

First, make an invisible finish (inv.FO) : break free from the yarn then thread it on your tapestry
needle (picture 1). Skip a stitch and insert it in the next one from front to back (picture 2). Then, in-
sert it in the back loop of the stitch your thread originally came out from (picture 3). Pull the thread
gently until your “fake” stitch has the same size as the others (picture 4). Weave in the end on the
wrong side, being careful not to pull the thread more.

[video] How to make an invisible finish

5 6 7 8
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Then, introduce the new color : make a slipknot with the new color yarn (picture 5). Insert your hook
through the slipknot and a stitch of your work, just before or after the Inv.FO you just made (picture
6), then make a regular single crochet (picture 7) - this counts as the first single crochet of the row.
You can now carry on with the instructions of the pattern.

[video] How to introduce a new color

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 Head
With white yarn: 1 2
O Rnd 1: sc8 in a MR (8)

Inv.CC to gray.

O Rnd 2: inc*8 (16)

Inv.CC to white.

O Rnd 3: (sc, inc)*8 (24)

O Rnd 4: sc, inc,(sc2, inc)*7, sc (32) 3 4

(Dont’t FO) Turn your work and add a row of 21

surface slst in between rnd3 and 4 (pictures 1-2).
Turn your work on the right side again, there
should be a white space of 3 stitches left (pic-
ture 3).
O Rnd 5: sc in each st of previous row (32)
O Rnd 6: rep (32)
O Rnd 7: rep (32)
O Rnd 8: rep (32) 5 6

Inv.CC to gray.

O Rnd 9: rep (32) - (picture 4)

*
Inv.FO and insert safety eyes: the 9 mm one be-
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tween rnd 4 and 5 , just below the white space

you left when you made the surface slip stitch-
es, and the 6 mm one between rnd 6 and 7, two
stitches apart from the big one.
Add a row of 25 surface slst in between rnd 8
and rnd9, starting at the bottom right of the
little eye (picture 5 *).
Insert white in the back loop of any stitch of row
9.

O Rnd 10: BLO - (sc2, dec)*8 (24)

O Rnd 11: (sc, dec)*8 (16)

For the fixed head: FO, leaving a long tail for

sewing. For the movable head: go on with the
instructions below.

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 Movable head 1 2

O Rnd 12: dec*8 (8)

FO, stuff and insert a 9 mm safety eye upside

down, as shown (pictures 1-2).

Weave the yarn tail through the front loop of

the remaining stitches and pull it tight in order 3 4
to close off the hole around the safety eye (pic-
tures 3-4).

Put the head aside and go on with the body in-

structions until you’ve made the Rnd 14 (picture
5).

Insert the head safety eye through the body,

right next to the orange circle’s border and in-
5 6
sert the washer to fix it (pictures 6-8).

You can now go back to the body instructions

(Rnd 15).

Circles (make 6)
7 8
With gray yarn:
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O Rnd 1: sc8 in a MR (8)

Inv.CC to white.

O Rnd 2: inc*8 (16) - (picture 9)

Inv.CC to orange.
9 10
O Rnd 3: sc, inc, spst, (inc, sc, inc, spst)*3, inc
(24) - Remember not to crochet in the stitch
behind the spst (picture 10).

Inv.CC to white in the first stitch of any inc of

the previous row (picture 11).

O Rnd 4: (sc2, inc)*8 (32)

11 12
FO, leaving a long tail for sewing except for the
6th circle you make: don’t FO and continue with
the instructions of the body (picture 12).

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 Tip!
Body
You might want to
use a smaller hook to
O Rnd 5: (sc3, inc)*8 (40) make the decreases,
O Rnd 6: sc in each st (40) that helps getting
O Rnd 7: rep (40) them tighter.
O Rnd 8: rep (40)
O Rnd 9: rep (40)
O Rnd 10: rep (40)
O Rnd 11: rep (40)
O Rnd 12: rep (40)
O Rnd 13: rep (40)
O Rnd 14: rep (40)
O Rnd 15: (sc3,dec)*8 (32)
O Rnd 16: sc, dec, (sc2, dec)*7, sc (24)

Begin to stuff and continue as you go.

O Rnd 17: (sc, dec)*8 (16)

O Rnd 18: dec*8 (8)

FO, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of

the remaining stitches and pull it tight in order
to close off the body. Then, weave in the end.
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Assembling 1 2

Pin the 5 remaining circles on the body.

One should be at the opposite of the one includ-
ed in the body itself, and the 4 others should be
placed evenly between those 2 circles (picture 1).
Be careful to align the spike stitches one with
another.

Once they’re all placed correctly, sew them on 3 4

(picture 2).
If you chose the fixed head version, it’s time to
stuff the head (picture 3).

Pin it to the body, slightly off-centered (picture

4). Then, sew it into place.

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... Aaaand,
you’re done!

l ati o ns!
o ng r atu
C
©2015 Ahooka - All rights reserved - This pattern is for personal use only. The pattern (or parts of it) may not be repro-
duced, distributed or resold, translated, published, altered, shared or posted (for sell or for free) over the Internet or
off-line.

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