Herbal Cosmetics

The word cosmetic was derived from the Greek word “kosm tikos” meaning having the power,
arrange, skill in decorating.
Herbal cosmetics is defined as the beauty products, which passes desirable physiological activities,
such as akin healing, smoothing, appearance, enhancing and conditioning properties with the help
of herbal ingredients.
Type of herbal cosmetics:
a) Skin care:
• Skin cleansers
• Moistures
• Nourishers
• Antiseptics
• Soothing agent
• Sunscreens
• Antiwrinkle and antiageing
• Antiacne
b) Hair care:
• Detergents
• Conditioners
• Nourishers
• Hair colorants
• Hair growth promoters
• Anti drandruff
c) Others:
• Colours
• Perfumes
• Talcum powder
• Oral care products.

PALLAB KR NATH, ASSIST PROFESSOR, RGU, GUWAHATI 1

Raw materials of herbal origin:
1. Fix oil:
a) Almond Oil: It is a fixed oil obtained by expressing the seeds of Prunus amygdalus, Family
Rosaceae. The oil is pale yellow in colour, with a characteristic odour. The active principles are
mainly the mixture of glycoside with oleic acid, linoleic acid, myristic and palmitic acid. It has an
emollient action, so it is used in the preparation of creams and lotions.
b) Arachis Oil: This is also a fixed oil obtained from the seeds of the Arachis hypogea belonging to
the family Leguminoseae. The oil is pale yellow in colour, with a faint nutty odour. Refined
groundnut oil is colourless, with active principles like oleic, linoleic acid and a small amount of
other acids. At 3° C, it is cloudy, at a lower temperature, it solidifies. It is used in the preparation of
hair oils and brilliantines.
c) Castor Oil: Oil is obtained from the seeds of Ricinus communis belonging to the family,
Euphorbiaceae. It has a slight odour; the oil is either yellow in colour or colourless. It consists of a
mixture of glycosides, in which 80% of ricinoleic acid is the major constituent. At 0° C it forms a
clear liquid. It is used as an emollient, in the preparation of lipsticks, hair oils, creams and lotions.
d) Olive Oil: This oil is obtained from the fruit of the Olea europea, belonging to the family,
Oleaceae. The oil is either pale yellow or greenish yellow in colour, it has a slight odour. It consists
of the glycerides of oleic acid, palmitic, linoleic, stearic and myristic acids. At a lower temperature,
it is solid or partly solid. It has emollient, soothing properties. It is used in the manufacturing of
creams, lotions and bath oils.
e) Coconut Oil: This oil is obtained from the dried solid part of the endosperm of the coconut –
Cocos nucifera, family Palmea. It is a white or pearl-white unctuous mass in winter and colourless
in summer.
2. Waxes:
Waxes are the esters resulting from the condensation of high molecular straight chain fatty acids
with high molecular straight chain monohydric alcohol of the methanol series. They are used in
cosmetics as a base, along with oils and fats.
Example: lipsticks.
Commonly used waxes are,
1. Beeswax: It is a purified wax separated from the honeycomb of bees, Apis mellifera which
belong to the Family, Apidae. Beeswax is composed of 70% ester myricyl palmitate. It is yellowish
brown in colour, solid, with a honey-like odour. Under cold conditions it becomes brittle; when
bleached, it becomes yellowish-white solid with a faint characteristic odour. The melting point of
beeswax is 62°C–65°C. Beeswax helps in the incorporation of water to form an emulsion.
2. Carnauba Wax: This is obtained from the leaves of the Brazilian wax palm, Copernica cerifera,
which belongs to the Palmae family. Camauba wax is available in various grades. The highest grade
is light-brown to pale-yellow in colour. It is in the form of moderately coarse powder or flakes, with
a characteristic bland odour. The melting range of this wax is 81°C–86°C. It is a hard wax and is
used in the manufacture of candles, wax varnishes, leather and furniture polishes.
PALLAB KR NATH, ASSIST PROFESSOR, RGU, GUWAHATI 2
3. Myrica Wax:
It is obtained from the peels of berry of Myrica cerifera belonging to family Myricaceae. It contains
phytochemicals like Palmitic, myristic and lauric acid esters.
3. Colours:
Colours have been used in cosmetics, since time immemorial, by human beings. Basically, the
desire to buy a cosmetic product is controlled by three senses, namely, sight, touch and smell. So
colour is one of the most important ingredients of cosmetic formulations. Colour is a visual
sensation which can be caused by a definite wavelength or a group of wavelengths by an object
through one or more of the following phenomena – emission, refection, refraction or transmission.
Some natural colours are,
a) Cochineal: Cochineal is a red dyestuff derived from the dried female insect, Dactilopius coccus,
which belongs to the Coccidae family. Carminic acid is the main colouring constituent in cochineal.
On crystallization, carminic acid forms red needles and at 130°C, the needles darken and also
carbonize at 250°C.
For the preparation of caramine, the cochineal is extracted with water. Alum is added to this
solution to precipitate the red aluminium salt called carmine lake.
b) Saffron: It consists of the stigmas and tops of the styles of the plant, Crocus sativa, which
belongs to the Iridaceae family. It is a perennial plant grown in Jammu and Kashmir in India.
Saffron powder is yellowish and is easily soluble in water, so it is used as a flavouring and
colouring agent in food preparations. Saffron contains a number of carotenoids – crocin is an
important natural
saffron carotenoid. Picrocrocin is a colorless bitter glycoside responsible for saffron’s characteristic
odour.
Chlorophyll: It is the natural green pigment, found abundantly in nature. It is the component that is
responsible for photosynthesis.
Rose: It is obtained by the steam distillation process from the flower petals of Rosmarinas
officinalis which belongs to the Labiatae family. For obtaining rose oil, the blossoms are collected
before they open, a little before sunrise.
Jasmine Essential Oil: Obtained from the flowers of Jasminum grandiflorum which belongs to the
Oleaceae family, the oil is obtained by the solvent extraction method and its essence is used in the
perfumery industry.
Lavender: It is obtained from the flowers and stalk of lavandula officinals which belongs to the
Labiatae family. Tuberose: The nickname of the tuberose is “mistress of the night”. The oil is a
brown, viscous liquid with a sweet, heavy and sensuous scent.
Geranium: This oil is obtained from the flowers, leaves and stalks of the Pelargonium graveolens,
which belongs to the Geranigceae family. Its essence is obtained by the distillation process, from
the flowers and stems of the plant. The geranium is known as geranium bourbon.
Champa: It is obtained from the flowers of the Michelia champaka. The colour of the flower is
yellow to deep orange.

PALLAB KR NATH, ASSIST PROFESSOR, RGU, GUWAHATI 3

Cinnamon: Cinnamon oil is obtained from the different parts of the cinnamon tree – its leaves,
bark and roots. Cinnamon zeylanicum belongs to the family, Lauraceae. The oil obtained from the
bark is most valuable. The oil has a warm, spicy and sweet character.
Neroli: It is an essential oil obtained through the distillation process from the flower of the bitter
orange tree. It can be stored in amber-coloured bottles in the refrigerator.

4.Gums:
Hydrophobic or hydrophilic high molecular weight molecules colloidal properties
Natural gums
1. Sea weed - gum agar, algin, carrageenan, laminaran
2. Plant exudates - Acacia, tragacanth, karaya, ghatti
3. Seed gums- Guar gum, isabgol, tamarind, locust bean gum, quince seed gum.
a) Carrageenan:
Biological source: Sulphated polysaccharide extract sea weed carageen or Irish mass Gigartina
stellata
Family Rodophyceae
Uses:
• Hard lotion Gelling, emulsifying and stabilizing agent
• Antitartar tooth paste
• Hair setting lotion
b) Gum Tracaganth:
Biological source: Dried gummy exudates stem Astragalus gummifer
Family Leguminosae
Chemical constituents: Tragcanthin 8 10%, Bassorin 60 70%
Uses: Suspending, thickening and emulsifying agent
c) Gum Acacia:
Biological source: Dried gummy exudate stem and branches Acacia senegal
Family Leguminosae
Chemical constituents: Arabinose, rhamnose, glyceronic acid
Uses: Suspending, thickening and emulsifying agent
d) Locust bean gum:
Biological source: Endosperm seeds Cerotina siliqua
Family Leguminosae
Chemical constituents: D galacto D Mannoglycan, 4% Pentan, oxidase and ceratoniase enzyme
PALLAB KR NATH, ASSIST PROFESSOR, RGU, GUWAHATI 4
Uses: Binder, thickening agent, stabilising agent cosmetics.
e) Pectin:
Biological source: Purified carbohydrate acid hydrolysis inner portion rind Citrus peels Citrus
limonii or Citrus auranticum
Family Rutaceae
Uses: Emulsifying and gelling agent cosmetics
5. Bleaching Agents:
Bleaching agents are used for bleaching/fading the various marks and act to block the formation of
the skin pigment melanin.
1. ARBUTIN:
• Arbutin is a naturally occurring derivative of hydroquinone found in the leaves of cranberry,
bearberry, and blueberry shrubs, most types of pears, and many other plants.
• Arbutin also inhibits the formation of melanin pigment by inhibiting Tyrosinase activity.
2. KOJIC ACID
• Derived from fungus, kojic acid inhibits the catecholase activity of tyrosinase, which is the rate-
limiting, essential enzyme in the biosynthesis of the skin pigment melanin.
3. GINKGO BILOBA
• This extract is used is an anti-aging cosmetic product due to its composition rich in
flavonoids(rutin,quercetin,kaempferol), biflavones and terpenoids related to its anti-oxidant and
anti-inflammatory action.
• They show potent free radical scavenger activity when applied to skin. Ginkgo flavones
glycosides, mostly quercetin and kaempferol derivatives can inhibit tyrosinase activity by chelating
copper in enzyme.
4. LIQUORICE EXTRACT
• It has several active compounds that may stimulate or suppress melanogenisis.
• Glabridin,the main ingredient inhibits tyrosinase activity.
• Glabridin,licuriside,isolicuiriti n and licocalchone A are some constituents of liquorice that cause
depigmentation.
6. Protective agents:
These protective agents are substances that help to safeguard the skin and hair from various
environmental stressors, such as UV radiation, pollution, and oxidative stress. When incorporated
into herbal cosmetics, they can enhance the products' effectiveness and provide additional benefits
for skin and hair health.
Common Protective Agents:
Vitamins: Vitamins like vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and vitamin E (tocopherol) are potent
antioxidants that protect the skin from free radical damage.

PALLAB KR NATH, ASSIST PROFESSOR, RGU, GUWAHATI 5

Mineral Sunscreens: Ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide provide physical protection
against UV radiation.
Antioxidant-rich Herbal Extracts: Extracts from herbs like green tea, chamomile, and rosemary
are rich in antioxidants and are commonly used in herbal cosmetics.
Anti-pollution Ingredients: Ingredients like niacinamide and urban shield complexes are used to
protect the skin from pollution-related damage.

7. Perfumes:
Perfume (Fragrance) is a mixture of essential oils or aroma compounds, used to give the human
body a pleasant scent. Perfumes are used to impart a pleasant odour, mask the inherent smell of
some ingredients and enhance the experience of using the product.

a) Lavender Oil:
Biological Source: Lavender oil is extracted from the flowers of Lavandula officinalis. Family:
Labiatae.
Chemical constituents: Lavender oil contains α – pinene, limonene, cineole, camphor, and Linalool.
Description: Colourless to yellow.
Characteristic aromatic odour. Aromatic and pungent taste.
Use in cosmetic: •
• Used in the preparation of soaps, shampoos and sprays.
• Used as moisturizer and to restore skin complexion.
• Effective for treating alopecia (scientific term for baldness).
b) Rose Oil:
Biological Source: Rose oil is extracted from the flowers of Rosa damascene. Family: Rosaceae
Chemical constituents: Rose oil contains citronellol, geraniol, nerol, linalool, phenyl ethyl alcohol,
pinene, limonene and p – cymene.
Description: Pale yellow. Characteristic aromatic odour. Fruity taste. It is insoluble in water but
soluble in alcohol and vegetable oils.
Use in cosmetic:
• Used in the preparation of soaps, body lotions, face cream etc.
• Used as moisturizer.
c) Geranium Oil:
Biological Source: obtained from the fresh leaves and the stems of Pelargonium graveolens Linn.
Family: Geraniaceae Extracted by Steam distillation.

PALLAB KR NATH, ASSIST PROFESSOR, RGU, GUWAHATI 6

Chemical Constituents: All varities of germanium generally contain 0.08 to 0.4% of fragrant
volatile oil. Contains two types of constituents i.e. alcohols and esters. The alcohols are β-citranellol
and Geranuol about 60-70%.
d) Jasmine essential oil:
Biological Source: Obtained from the flowers of Jasminum grandiflorum. Family: Oleaceae
Extraction is done by solvent extraction to obtain Jasmine Oil. Uses in cosmetics: It is used in
perfumery industries.
e) Tuberose Oil:
Biological Source: Obtained from flowers of Epimedium acuminatum (also known as mistress of
the night) called the acuminate barrenwort, is a species of flowering plant. Brown, viscous liquid
with sweet taste.
f) Champa Oil:
Biological source: obtained from the flowers of Michelia champaca. Family: Magnoliaceae.
g) Cinnamon Oil:
Biological Source: obtained from the different parts of cinnamon tree, i.e. its leaves, barks, and
roots of Cinnamon zeylanicum. Family: Lauraceae
h) Neroli Oil:
Biological Source: essential oil extracted extracted from the flowers of the bitter orange trees Citrus
aurantium. Family: Rutaceae
8. Antioxidants:
Antioxidants prevent oxidation of oxygen sensitive substances. They protect the drug product by
acting as:
• Reducing Agent (e.g. Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Bisulphite, thiourea) or
• Preferentially oxidized or by blocking an oxidative chain reaction (eg. Ascorbic Acid esters,
butylhydroxy anisole and tocopherols) which are true antioxidants.
• They are added to pharmaceutical formulations as redox systems possessing higher
oxidative potential than the drug that they are designed to protect or as chain inhibitors of
radical induced decomposition.
• Typically antioxidants are employed in low concentrations (0.2% w/w) and it is usual for the
concentration of antioxidant in the finished product to be markedly less than the initial
concentration, due to oxidative degradation during manufacture of the dosage form.
• Antioxidants may also be used in combination with chelating agents such as disodium
EDTA.
Herbs Containing Antioxidants;
a) Tamarind
Biological Source: Tamarindus indica Family: Fabaceae
• Tamarind seeds exhibit radical scavenging, anti-microbial and lipid peroxidation reducing
activities. • Due to its antioxidant activity, tamarind is added in anti-wrinkle cosmetics.

PALLAB KR NATH, ASSIST PROFESSOR, RGU, GUWAHATI 7

b) Vitamin C:
• It prevents free radical damage by donating free radicals.
• It boosts up immune system.
• Carrots, peaches, sweet potatoes, oranges, brocolli,etc. are the major sourcs of Vitamin C.
c) Vitamin E:
• Known as scavenger of free radicals.
• It is beneficial against certain types of cancer and cardiac problems.
• Almonds, nuts, whole cereal grains, vegetable oils, etc. are the major sources of Vitamin E.
d) Pomegranate:
• Antioxidant activity: cell free systems, Artemia salina and HepG2.
• Antiproliferative activity in cancer cells: HeLa, PC3 • Inhibition of enzymes: COX-2,
MAO-A.
e) Resveratrol:
• It is a polyphenolic phytoalexin compound, present in the skin and seeds of grapes, berries,
peanuts, and other foods.
• It is a potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-prolifervative agent.
• Prevent skin cancer and other and other conditions generated by the sun.
f) Ferulic Acid:
• Oil of Asafoetida is obtained by steam distillation of the oleo-gum resin.
• Potent antioxidant that provides photo protection to skin thus added in sunscreens, cosmetic
lotions and other skin products.
g) Liquorice:
Glycyrrhiza glabra extract is used to treat skin irritation dermatitis, eczema, pruritius, and cysts.
Glycyrrhizin is an important constituent of liquorice and has a chemopreventive action.

PALLAB KR NATH, ASSIST PROFESSOR, RGU, GUWAHATI 8