T

Isabella Alston was born in Los Angeles. The TAJ MINI BOOKS Series he French poster, born of a basic
A citizen of the United States and utilitarian purpose, has developed

French Posters

French Posters
Switzerland, she considers both Europe with age into an admired and
and America home. Isabella is a free- collected art form. Vintage posters command
lance writer and artist. She lives on high prices at auction and curators specialize
the coast of North Carolina with her in their restoration. The earliest art-worthy
husband, a U.S. Marine, and their dog, posters appeared on the streets of Paris
Archer. designed by French-born artists such as Jules
Chéret, who popularized poster art with his
Kathryn Dixon was born and raised in /CÊVTGUFGNo#HƂEJG publication from 1895
South Carolina. She has lived in New to 1899, Paul Émile Berthon, and Henri de
York City, Los Angeles, Barcelona, Toulouse-Lautrec. Other poster artists just as
Geneva, and beautifully bucolic well known but hailing from other countries
Charlottesville, Virginia, although include Eugène Grasset from Switzerland,
Charlotte, North Carolina, is currently Alphonse Mucha from what is now the Czech

Isabella Alston &

Kathryn Dixon
home. Travel is a favorite pasttime that Republic, and Marcello Dudovich from Italy.
she indulges in the company of her
loving and generous husband. The Art Nouveau and Art Deco posters
created before and after the turn of the
20th century advertised everything from
soap to chocolate, bicycles to cars, coffee
to cordials, department stores to nightclubs.
They promoted the performing artists in

B E L L AG IO P R E S S
the revues, theaters, and cancan lines that
ISBN 978-1-62732-014-6
dominated nightlife in the City of Light.
Travel, another common poster theme,
$ 9.99 US/ $10.99 CAN/ £6.99 UK
featured modern ocean liners and airlines
as well as terribly exotic destinations and
Please visit www.bellagiopress.com for a European resorts. This book includes
current listing of the books in this series. examples of the works of the most popular
9 781627 320146 > Isabella Alston & Kathryn Dixon poster artists working in France from 1890 to
the 1930s.
French Posters
 Published by TAJ Books International LLC 2014
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the size depicted qualifes as fair use under United States copyright law.

ISBN 978-1-84406-336-9
978-1-62732-014-6 Paperback

Printed in China

1 2 3 4 5 18 17 16 15 14
 French Posters

Isabella Alston & Kathryn D i x o n

 Introduction

T he poster has been around for hundreds of

years, serving first and foremost as a means
of communication. The simplest definition of
playwright and actor. He soon discovered that
he preferred writing plays more than performing
them. But when he began to fall into debt to his
a poster is any form of paper with a printed local printer, he began to experiment with new,
design or text that is created to be hung on a non-commercial forms of printing.
vertical surface. The poster’s genesis was purely Senefelder found that he could apply
a textual form, most often used for displaying chemicals to a block of fine-grained stone,
government decrees. One of the earliest, more such as limestone (Germany is renowned for
developed forms of poster was a means of its Solnhofen limestone, which is especially
advertisement, such as for one of Shakespeare’s fine-grained and thus ideal for retaining fine
plays. Eventually, posters came to be used as details), and the chemicals would literally
a way to spread propaganda, especially during “etch” the image or text he had created onto the
wartime. Another common use of posters is stone. After wetting the etched stone, he could
as a cheap and efficient way to mass-produce roll grease-based ink over it. The etched areas
popular artworks for the general public’s of the stone (i.e., the desired image) retained
consumption. the ink, while the un-etched, or negative, areas
As the printing process became more repelled it. Paper could then be laid down on
modernized and streamlined, posters began to the inked limestone block, put through a press,
include images in addition to text. With the and the inked image would be transferred to
invention of color printing, the poster slowly the paper.
evolved until its focus was primarily the visual The limestone block could be re-used
image rather than the text, because an image countless times to print the image. When the
could relay the desired message more quickly. printer wanted to change the image, all he
The purpose of the poster image was to catch needed to do was to sand down the etched
the eye of the passerby so that he or she would layer and re-start the process on the limestone
look more closely at the text for more detailed block. Thus, Senefelder discovered the first
information. planographic printing process (i.e., printing
The tremendous success of the poster can from a flat surface as opposed to a raised or
be attributed to one man, Alois Senefelder, and incised surface) that was put to commercial
his groundbreaking invention, lithography. use. Lithography not only allowed easy mass-
Alois Senefelder (1771 to 1834) was a German production of posters for commercial reasons,

4
 The American dancer Loïe Fuller performing her
infamous Serpentine Dance (above) and an artistic
rendering of the same by Jean de Paleologu (1855-1942)
to promote Fuller’s appearance at the Folies Bergère
nightclub in Paris.

5
but also helped turn the poster into an accepted philosophers from every walk of life and from
and popular form of art. Lithography is taught all corners of the world co-mingled there in
in art schools today as its own art form. Some of the mid- to late-19th century, influencing each
the most well-known artists to utilize the poster other’s creative process and inspiring new,
as an art form are Henri Toulouse-Lautrec and modern, freer forms of expression.
Alphonse Mucha. Some of Toulouse-Lautrec’s first subjects
Henri Raymond de Toulouse-Lautrec-Monfa were the prostitutes of Montmarte, which
(1864 to 1901), more often referred to simply would lead to his later, very famous paintings
as Toulouse-Lautrec, was an artist primarily and posters of Paris’ dance hall girls. His early
based in Paris during the late 19th century. He style is somewhat reminiscent of the Dutch
was born to a French aristocratic family and artist Vincent van Gogh, with whom he was
spent a good part of his childhood drawing and acquainted. As the years passed, Toulouse-
sketching. Throughout his life he was plagued Lautrec’s images became more abstract
by an undefined congenital health problem, representations of the women of Montmarte.
which many have attributed to a family history
of inbreeding. From a young age, he suffered
from brittle bones that never fully healed after
they broke, and as he aged, these malformed
bones inhibited his natural growth and resulted
in his unusually short stature. Although his
torso was a normal adult size, his legs never
grew longer than their length when he was 13
years old.
Toulouse-Lautrec’s physical handicaps
effectively pushed him to pursue artistic
Moulin Rouge, 1900
studies because he was unable to participate
in most other activities. Thanks to his family’s Toulouse-Lautrec’s first official contract for
aristocratic influence, he was able to study under creating poster art was for Moulin Rouge,
the guidance of the prominent French painter a cabaret in Pigalle near Montmarte that
Léon Bonnat. Toulouse-Lautrec eventually found was topped with a red windmill. Toulouse-
his niche in Montmarte, the bustling Bohemian Lautrec’s attention-grabbing posters that
neighborhood in Paris. Writers, artists, and depicted the cabaret’s dancing girls doing the

6
wildly suggestive cancan, and especially of this period, and attracted much attention due
the cabaret’s star performer Jane Avril, made to its beauty and uniqueness. Bernhardt was so
Moulin Rouge one of the most well-known impressed by Mucha’s work and the success his
cabarets in all of history. work brought her that she offered him a long-
Alphonse Mucha (1860 to 1939) is another term contract. Mucha’s posters of Bernhardt led
artist well known for his artwork that graced to his fame, and his unique artistic style is what
countless posters at the turn of the 20th century. initially began the Art Nouveau movement. In
Mucha was born in what is now the Czech addition to the Bernhardt posters, Mucha began
Republic. Since a young child, Mucha had to receive a flood of other commissions, ranging
exhibited artistic talent. After graduating from from magazine ads to menus, postcards, and
high school, he collaborated with his brother and calendars.
a friend to form a decorative painting business, Another Parisian artist, Jules Chéret (1836 to
primarily murals for public buildings. He also 1932), developed a new and improved method
worked for a few years in Vienna, Austria, for of lithography that could accept significantly
a theatrical design company. Mucha continued more color than the old method. Advertisers
to freelance and was soon hired by Count Karl preferred the new method because the bright
Khuen who requested that Mucha decorate his colors were better able to catch the public’s
castle with murals. Mucha’s work pleased the eye. Suddenly, the streets of Paris were ablaze
count so much that he offered to pay for him to with color as buildings and billboards became
attend the Munich Academy of Fine Arts so that plastered with vibrant images of poster art.
he could receive formal training. Chéret had begun his career as an apprentice
After graduating from the academy, Mucha to a lithography company in Paris and moved
moved to Paris. To support himself, he worked to London for more training. When he returned
for a printing company. He was luckily in the to Paris he designed numerous advertising
right place at the right time one day in 1894, posters for theaters and cabarets, in particular
when he was the only artist in the office and the Folies Bergère. His favorite subjects were
was tasked with designing a poster for Sarah women. These women, rendered with some
Bernhardt, the most famous actress in all of degree of modesty, were so popular that they
Europe. Mucha’s poster depicts an image of were readily recognized throughout the city
Bernhardt in the role of Gismonda, her name and the country as “the Chérettes.”
encircling and framing her face. The poster was Due to Sarah Bernhardt’s most successful
produced using lithography, as were most during collaboration with the artist Alphonse Mucha,

7
lesser known actors and actresses began to Harper's Bazaar. He was also an innovator in
hire their own personal poster artist, causing designing typeface. Today, he is best known for
demand to steadily increase for artists who his travel posters.
were willing and able to produce posters. Other lesser-known French poster artists
Taking heed of the popularity of posters, Chéret were Julien Lacaze (1886 to 1971) Léo Lelée
introduced the Maîtres de l’Affiche series (1872 to 1947), Guillaume Georges Roger (1867
in 1895. The collection helped to define the to 1974), and René Vincent (1879 to 1936).
poster as art, not only as advertising. The series Roger specialized in travel posters and Vincent
included 256 lithographic plates of the original in automobiles.
work of 97 artists. Chéret sent each subscriber Of course, the poster as art form was not the
a set of four prints on a monthly basis over a sole territory of French artists—artists of many
subscription period of five years. These posters other nationalities contributed to the wide
also suggested the value of sexuality in selling variety of poster images. One of Italy’s leading
products, since the majority of the artists chose poster artists was Marcello Dudovich (1878 to
to portray women in their posters. 1962) who is known for his vibrantly colored,
Adolphe Mouron (1901 to 1968), more dramatic ads on black backgrounds, similar to
simply known as Cassandre, is credited the style of Leonetto Cappiello (1875 to 1942),
with innovative graphic-design solutions in an Italian who lived and worked in France.
advertising, which he successfully employed in J. & W. Beggarstaff was the pseudonym
the years before World War II. The enormous, created by two British artists, William Nicholson
hulking prow of the Normandie trans-Atlantic and James Pryde, for their artistic collaboration
ocean liner is one of the most famous and iconic on graphic design and posters from 1894 to
in the history of poster design; it was created 1899. When Nicholson was in art school, he met
by Cassandre. Cassandre was born in Ukraine, his future wife, with whom he eloped shortly
but moved to Paris in the 1920s, thriving in the thereafter. Once the two had found a home and
city’s creative and artistic environment. After settled in, his wife’s brother, Pryde, came to
studying at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts and the visit. An actor acquaintance, Edward Gordon
Académie Julian, and influenced by Cubist and Craig, was to tour in Hamlet in the summer of
Surrealist imagery, he began to incorporate that 1894. He asked Pryde and Nicholson to design
imagery into his designs in poster making. By a promotional poster for the play.
the mid-1930s, he was being commissioned to This inauspicious encounter marked the
design magazine covers by such periodicals as beginning of the two artists’ collaboration.

8
The prototype for the first poster began as a of cats of which he was quite fond.
partial collage in which Craig’s clothing and Whereas posters were extremely popular
hair was cut from black paper. His figure was in Europe, America did not initially share
then stenciled onto brown wrapping paper with the same fondness for the art form. Alphonse
hand-drawn details added later. The original Mucha discovered this when, in later years after
poster is not believed to have survived. The already achieving success in Europe, he moved
pair went on to collaborate on numerous other to New York. Finding work for himself as a
posters, but their best-known work remains the poster artist was rather difficult; Americans,
Hamlet poster. unlike the Europeans (especially the Parisians),
Théophile Alexandre Steinlen (1859 to did not revere the image on the poster as the
1923) was a Swiss-born Art Nouveau painter most important element of the advertiser’s
and printmaker. He was born in Lausanne message. Eventually, Americans’ perception
where he attended university. After graduating, of the poster changed when posters began to
he found a job as an apprentice designer in a be used to sell the traveling circus, for which
textile mill in eastern France. On the side, he bright and colorful poster images mirrored the
painted. One day the painter Francois Bocion reality of the performers in the circus ring.
encouraged the young Steinlen and his wife to Nevertheless, circus posters—viewed as more
relocate to Montmartre in Paris. Bocion knew in utilitarian and less as artwork—have never been
this invigorating environment Steinlen’s talent considered of the same caliber as the European
could truly flourish. He could make contacts posters of the era.
and surround himself with other artists and Most vintage French posters can be
creative spirits. described as being of the Art Nouveau style or
In Paris, Steinlen met Adolphe Willette, the Art Deco style. An easy way to tell the two
another painter, who brought Steinlen to the Le styles apart is that Art Nouveau is flowery and
Chat Noir cabaret. Steinlen meet the nightclub’s decorative, whereas Art Deco is streamlined
owner, who eventually commissioned him to and sleek. Both the Art Nouveau and Art Deco
create poster art for the club. Steinlen’s work movements emerged as reactions to major
was shown at Paris’ Les Salon des Indépendants, world events: the Industrial Revolution and
indicating his success in the Parisian art world. World War I, respectively. The Art Nouveau
His work focused on life in Montmartre, both period stretched from roughly 1880, the dawn
the good and the bad sides of the community. of the Indusrial Revolution, until just before
He later attempted a few sculptures, primarily World War I. The Industrial Revolution was

9
welcomed by certain artists who embraced the During the First and Second World Wars,
possibilities of new materials, such as cast iron, posters were a popular way to promote
which were available to artists with the progress nationalist propaganda and other information
in technology. Yet other artists deplored the as well as to help urge young men to enlist
shoddiness of mass-produced, machine-made and protect their homeland. These posters
goods and chose to elevate the decorative displayed images and phrases, which spoke to
arts by applying the highest standards of the individual’s patriotism, and bombarded the
craftsmanship and design to mundane objects. general public with a striking message designed
Both viewpoints informed the Art Nouveau to elicit a strong emotional response. Some of
style. the best known are not French at all, but were
Art Nouveau designers believed that all
the arts (buildings, furniture, textiles, clothes,
and jewelry) should work in harmony to create
a "total work of art.” Art Nouveau features
naturalistic but stylized forms, often combined
with geometric shapes, particularly arcs and
semicircles. The movement introduced natural
forms such as insects, weeds, and even mythical
faeries, represented, for example, in Lalique
jewelry and Tiffany lamps.
Art Deco emerged after World War I and,
following the deprivations of the war years,
focused on renewed opulence and extravagance
that would come to define the Jazz Age and
the Art Deco aesthetic. The movement, from the
1920s until roughly the start of World War II,
took its name from France’s 1925 Exposition
Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels
Modernes (a poster advertising the exposition created for U.S. and U.K. audiences. In the U.S.,
is on the facing page), which featured art and the crusty old character of Uncle Sam (“I want
objects characterized by streamlined, strongly you!”), created by J.M. Flagg, was introduced in
geometric shapes. a World War I poster campaign.

10
Color woodblock poster for the Paris 1925 Exhibition, by Robert
Bonfils (1886 to 1972) for Imprimerie Vaugirard, Paris, France
(1925), Victoria and Albert Musuem, London
11
 In World War II, J. Howard Miller’s “Rosie in pre-cinema days to promote stage actors
the Riveter” poster quickly became an iconic and plays. The movie poster was easily pasted
American image, created to help encourage on buildings, lamp posts, and outside theatres,
women to contribute to the war effort by providing a snapshot preview of what the
working in the munitions factories. The poster movie was all about. These cinematic poster
pictures a woman in factory images were designed to stimulate
clothes flexing her arm with the intrigue and excitement about the
phrase “We Can Do It!” scrawled movie. Today, some older movie
boldly across the top of the poster. posters are quite valuable. Numerous
During World War II, the U.K. avid collectors are in the marketplace.
produced a poster (but surprisingly The “Mona Lisa” of movie posters
never distributed it) that read is the poster for Fritz Lang’s movie
“Keep Calm and Carry On” in Metropolis (1925). It sold in 2005 for
an effort to reassure the British $690,000 before turning up again in
public who found themselves daily a bankruptcy auction in 2012 when
victims of the terrors of war with it sold along with several other rare
Nazi Germany. movie posters as a group for $1.2
In recent years, all three of million. The original 1931 six-sheet
these well-known posters have poster for Frankenstein may be the
experienced renewed popularity, most valuable movie poster out there;
albeit in rather dramatically only one copy is known to exist and
revamped interpretations designed it has never been sold.
to appeal to modern society. Surely, the The travel poster is yet another form of
combination of graphic and advertising savvy the genre. Most originated in the 1920s and
inherent in these posters, which have retained 1930s, between the two World Wars when
their applicability and attention-getting power travel and leisure were easily accessible and
over multiple generations, marks them as truly once again possible for many. Most of these
memorable advertising and informational posters depicted top destinations around the
campaigns; good design proven to stand the world, especially resort locales. They consist of
test of time. beautifully drawn images of the location, often
Posters were (and still are) used extensively showing vacationers enjoying the pleasures of
to advertise the cinema, just as they were used the resort, and usually include the name of the

12
location in bold lettering on the bottom portion fabric backed, but improvements have been
of the frame. made in the process so that the material will
Travel posters were not only relegated to remain in good shape for a much longer period
destinations, but were also used to advertise than in the past. Adding fabric to the back of
modes of transportation to these destinations. a poster not only helps strengthen and support
Posters, such as those by Cassandre, depicting the image, it also allows for easier restoration
cruise ships and steamers were the first wave as well as preventing warping of the poster
of transport posters, followed later by posters once framed. In restoring vintage posters, the
advertising travel by train. Eventually, with the curator’s goal is to ensure that whatever work
advent of the airplane, posters promoted the is done to the poster will not be damaging
airlines as well. or irreversible in any way. Many things can
Today, the majority of posters are no longer damage the appearance of a poster including
produced using the lithographic method. tape, stains, watermarks, and dirt. These can all
Technology has allowed for cheaper, faster, be easily repaired, however, so that the poster
and more efficient means to print posters. If can be restored to very close to its original
a poster is produced using lithography, it is appearance.
most likely part of a limited edition. Over the Extant vintage prints made using stone
years, photography has become the medium lithography are highly valuable. But rarity is
of choice for poster illustration. Reproductions difficult to determine because the number of
of vintage posters, however, are commonplace prints made from a single design is unknown.
and inexpensive, still beautiful for decorative Typical runs were from 250 to 3,000 posters
purposes. and the posters actually pasted to buildings
Original vintage posters can sell for high and billboards rarely survived. The posters
prices at auction and have created an entire that have survived until today are copies that
submarket within the art trade. Art curators are were artists’ own prints, collectors’ prints, and
interested in preserving these posters, which is leftovers found in printing warehouses. Vintage
not always an easy task. The first posters were posters are rated by curators on a scale from A
backed with fabric, often being glued to linen to D based on their condition, but even lower-
to reinforce the printed paper. This method did rated posters, with a rating such as C or D, can
not always age very well, and many of these still have significant value. Some of the most
posters have become brittle with age and have popular poster subjects for collectors are ocean
torn. Most high-quality posters today are still liners, automobiles, and skiing.

13
 Jules Chéret
1836–1932

C héret began his career as an apprentice to a

lithography company in Paris and moved to
London for more training. When he returned to
Paris he designed numerous advertising posters
for theaters and cabarets, in particular the Folies
Bergère. His favorite subjects were women. These
women, rendered with some degree of modesty,
were so popular that they were readily recognized
throughout the city and the country as “the
Chérettes.” Moving to exploit the popularity of
posters, Chéret introduced the Maîtres de l’Affiche
poster series in 1895. The collection helped to
define the poster as art, elevating it beyond the
realm of advertising. The series included 256
lithographic plates of the original work of 97
artists. Chéret sent each subscriber a set of four
prints on a monthly basis over a subscription
period of five years. The vast majority of the
posters in the series featured women, an early
recognition that sex sells. One of Chéret’s
contemporaries and competitors in poster art was
Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, shown with Chéret at
right (bottom) admiring one of Chéret’s posters
for the Moulin Rouge nightclub. At right (top) is a
photograph of Chéret.

14
 Jules Chéret

Promoting the American dancer Loïe Fuller who was

performing at the Folies Bergère nightclub

15
 Jules Chéret

Poster advertising the Palais de Glace, an ice-

skating rink, on the Champs-Elysées in Paris

16
 Jules Chéret

A “Chérette” turning up her lamp, fueled by the safe

petrol, Saxoléine, 1896–1900

17
 Jules Chéret

Poster for the Moulin Rouge nightclub, 1890

18
Jules Chéret

1894

19
Alfred Choubrac
1853–1902

A lfred Choubrac, a Parisian, studied art along with his brother and
began the studio Workshops Choubrac, one of the first graphic
design agencies in Paris. Choubrac specialized in the playbills of the
Parisian nightclub scene, being commissioned by such venues as the
Variety Theatre, Théâtre du Châtelet, Folies Bergères, Opera Comique,
Moulin Rouge, Casino de Paris, Eldorado, and Cirque Fernando. He also
executed a number of posters for bookstores. He produced over a 100
posters in his career. His talent extended to costume design as well.

Immediate
left is yet
another
poster to
celebrate the
wonders of
the dancer
Loïe Fuller
at the Folies
Bergère; it
is possible
to see the
fold lines of
the poster,
emphasizing
such posters’
original
utilitarian
purpose.

20
Alfred Choubrac

A poster to promote dances at Salle Wagram, a

theater in Paris near the Arc de Triomphe, 1890

21
Eugène Grasset
1841–1917

E ugène Grasset was born in Lausanne, Switzerland.

He is considered a pioneer in Art Nouveau design.
After completing his education in Zurich where he
studied architecture, he visited Egypt. His memories of
that trip as well as his admiration of Japanese art both
influenced his artistic expression, particularly obvious
in many of his poster designs. Grasset first worked
as a painter and sculptor in Lausanne. He moved to
Paris in 1871, where he designed furniture, fabrics,
and tapestries as well as ceramics and jewelry. In 1877
Grasset discovered graphic design, creating postcards
and postage stamps for both France and Switzerland.
Poster art quickly became his focus, however. He
contributed works to Jules Chéret’s Maîtres de l’Affiche
poster series. In 1894 Grasset designed the poster at
right to promote the second Salon des Cent, or Salon of
the One Hundred, a commercial art exhibition in Paris
that displayed and sold the works of 100 artists. Many
of the well-known poster artists participated in the
Salon—Grasset and Chéret were members—as well as
designed posters to advertise it. Alphonse Mucha and
Paul Émile Berthon created posters for later Salons.

22
Eugène Grasset

1894

23
Eugène Grasset

A poster to sell the ink of L. Marquet, 1892

24
 Eugène Grasset

A poster for an exhibition of French decorative art

at the Grafton Galleries in London, 1893

25
 Paul Émile Berthon
1872–1909

Queen Wilhelmina of the Netherlands, a

portrait by Berthon once in the collection
of the late actress Elizabeth Taylor

P aul Émile Berthon was a French artist who produced primarily posters and lithographs.
He worked in the style of Art Nouveau, much like his contemporaries Mucha, Grasset,
and Privat-Livemont. Berthon studied as a painter in Villefranche-sur-Mer, France, a village
on the Mediterranean, before moving to Paris where he studied with Luc-Olivier Merson, a
French academic painter and illustrator also known for his postage stamp and currency designs.
The influence of Berthon’s study of the decorative arts is obvious in his print making, which
incorporates strong lines and natural details, such as flowers and vines.

26
Paul Émile Berthon

27
Paul Émile Berthon

A promotional poster for the

17th Salon des Cent in Paris, 1897

28
Paul Émile Berthon

A cover for the illustrated literary magazine,

L’Ermitage, 1897

29
Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec
1864–1901

H enri Raymond de Toulouse-Lautrec-

Monfa, referred to simply as Toulouse-
Lautrec, worked in Paris in the late 19th
century. Throughout his life he was plagued
by an undefined congenital health problem,
which many have attributed to a his
aristocratic family’s history of inbreeding.
From a young age, Toulouse-Lautrec suffered
from brittle bones that never fully healed
after they broke, and as he aged, these
malformed bones inhibited his natural
growth and resulted in his unusually short
stature. Although his torso was a normal
adult size, his legs never grew longer than
when he was 13 years old. Toulouse-Lautrec’s
physical handicaps effectively pushed him
to pursue artistic studies because he was
unable to participate in most other activities.
Toulouse-Lautrec eventually found his
niche in Montmarte, the bustling Bohemian
neighborhood in Paris. Some of Toulouse-
Lautrec’s first subjects were the prostitutes
of Montmarte, which would lead to his later,
very famous paintings and posters of Paris’
dance hall girls.

30
 Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec

A cancan line composed of the dancers Eglantine, Cléopatre, Jane Avril, and Gazelle

31
Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec

Promoting the Moulin Rouge nightclub

32
 Plate 4
Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec

Promoting the Divan Japonais nightclub

33
Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec

Poster of Jane Avril, a well-known dancer

in the Parisian cabarets

34
Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec

A poster advertising paper confetti, 1894;

Toulouse-Lautrec’s simple designs were inspired by
Japanese woodblock prints
35
Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec

This poster promoted the novel Reine de Joie by

Victor Joze and proclaimed the novel could be found
in local bookstores, 1892
36
Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec

B orn in Ireland, May Belfort

made a name for herself on
the stages of Parisian nightclubs
with her suggestive songs. One
such musical double entendre was
a song called “Daddy Wouldn’t
Buy Me a Bow Wow.” She typically
appeared on stage dressed in an
English infant’s frock and holding
her ever-present black cat, as
depicted by Toulouse-Lautrec in this
1895 promotional poster. Her lover,
May Milton, was also a performer
who likewise commissioned
Toulouse-Lautrec’s artistic genius
in creating posters to promote
her performances. Four separate
lithographic stones and crachis, or
spattered ink, were used to realize
the finished composition in this
poster of May Belfort.

37
Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec

E xtremely thin and given to jerky

movements and sudden contortions,
the Parisian dancer Jane Avril (1868-
1943) was nicknamed La Mélinite, after
an explosive. Her name at birth was
Jeanne Beaudon, the daughter of a
courtesan known as La Belle Elise and
the Marchese Luigi de Font, an Italian
aristocrat. When her mother committed
her to the Pitié-Salpêtrière Hospital to be
treated for “female hysterics,” Jeanne put
on a dancing exhibition that captivated
everyone. Released from the hospital at
the age of 16, she pursued a career in
dancing by performing at the Parisian
caberets. She adopted the stage name Jane
Avril. First hired by the Moulin Rouge
nightclub in 1889, within a few years she
was headlining at the Jardin de Paris, one
of the major café-concerts on the Champs-
Élysées. In 1895, the owners of the Moulin
Rouge offered her a great deal of money
to take on the risky task of replacing
Louise Weber, the most famous dancer in
Paris. Jane met the challenge and became
one of the most notable entertainers in the
Parisian nightlife scene.
A photograph of Jane Avril

38
Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec

A poster commissioned by Jane Avril, 1899

39
 Firmin Bouisset
1859–1925

B ouisset is probably most

famous for his posters for the
French chocolate manufacturer
Menier. Bouisset used his daughter
Yvonne as a model to create what
became an iconic image of a little
girl using a piece of chocolate
to write the company's name.
Bouisset's work was part of Jules
Chéret’s Maîtres de l’Affiche poster
series. The poster at right was
created in 1893.

40
 Émile Bertrand
1842—1912

Poster for Jules Massenet’s production of Cendrillon

(Cinderella), advertising the première performance at the
Théâtre National de l’Opéra-Comique in Paris, 1899.

41
 Alphonse Mucha
1860–1939

A lphonse Mucha was born in what is now the Czech

Republic. Being artistic from a young age, he moved
to Paris after studying in Munich. To support himself, he
worked for a printing company. One day in 1894, he was
in the right place at the right time when he was the only
artist in the office and was tasked with creating a poster
for Sarah Bernhardt, the most famous actress in Europe
at the time. Mucha’s poster (near right) depicts an image
of Bernhardt in the role of Gismonda. Bernhardt was so
impressed by Mucha’s work and the success his work
brought her that she offered him a long-term contract.
Mucha’s posters of Bernhardt led to his great fame, and his
unique artistic style triggered the Art Nouveau movement.
In addition to the Bernhardt posters, Mucha began to
receive a flood of other commissions, ranging from
magazine ads to menus, postcards, and calendars.

42
 Alphonse Mucha

Poster for beer made near the River Meuse, Bières de la

Meuse, 1897; the view of the brewery at the bottom of
the poster was drawn by another artist.

43
Alphonse Mucha

A 1901 advertisement for Heidsieck & Co.

Monopole champagne

44
Alphonse Mucha

Alphonse Mucha created the logo LU for the biscuit

(or cookie) company Biscuits Lefèvre-Utile

45
Henri Privat-Livemont
1861–1936

H enri Privat-Livemont was born in

Brussels, Belgium. He is best known
for his Art Nouveau posters. From 1883
to 1889, he worked and studied in the
studios of Lemaire, Lavastre & Duvignaud
in Paris. He, with Lemaire, created the
decor of the Theatre Francais as well
as the Hôtel de Ville in Paris. He later
returned to his hometown of Brussels,
where he continued his decorative artistry.
His works were included in Jules Chéret’s
Maîtres de l’Affiche poster series.

46
Henri Privat-Livemont

The Green Fairie, Absinthe Robette, 1896

47
 Henri Privat-Livemont

Advertising the chocolate biscuits (cookies) of a Belgian company, 1896

48
Henri Privat-Livemont

1896

49
 Théophile Steinlen
1859–1923

T héophile Alexandre Steinlen, known simply as Steinlen, was a Swiss-born Art Nouveau
painter and printmaker. He was born in Lausanne, where he attended university. He
began work as a textile designer in Lausanne, but soon moved to the Montmartre section of
Paris to pursue a career in art. In Paris, Steinlen met Adolphe Willette, another painter, who
brought Steinlen to the Le Chat Noir cabaret. There, Steinlen meet the nightclub’s owner
who eventually commissioned him to create poster art for the club. Steinlen’s work was
shown at Paris’ Les Salon des Indépendants—an exhibition established in 1884 in response
to the rigid traditionalism of the official government-sponsored Salon—indicating his
success in the Parisian art world. Much of his work was of cats, of which he was quite fond.

50
Théophile Steinlen

An advertisement by Steinlen published in Chéret’s

Maîtres de l’Affiche poster series, 1899

51
Théophile Steinlen

A poster advertising a tour of

Le Chat Noir’s cabaret troup, 1896

52
 Théophile Steinlen

Announcing an exhibition of many of the artists of the day,

including Mucha, Steinlen, and de Feure; “Cocorico!” is the
French equivalent of “Cock-a-doodle-do!”

53
 Suzanne Ferrand

F rench WWI posters, c. 1918, from a group of posters designed by school children and others:

“Keep wine for our soldiers.” “Grow wheat. It is gold for France.”

54
Henri Dangon

N ot much is known about Henri

Dangon except that he was an artist
who was mobilized as part of the French
army during World War I. In 1916, the
Ministry of Beaux-Arts and the Ministry
of War promised artists serving in the
war that their work would be shown in
official war exhibitions on the homefront.
The government sponsored the Salon des
Armées to show the work of the mobilized
artists. The exhibition was very popular and
realized 60,000 francs in proceeds, which
supported not only needy artists at home
but also the disabled. This poster by Dangon
won first prize. A soldier holding a small
wooden statue of winged victory that he has
been carving.

55
René Vincent
1879–1936

56
René Vincent

c. 1925

57
Roger de Valerio
1886–1951

58
Roger de Valerio

1936

59
Roger de Valerio

1926

60
Roger de Valerio

1928

61
 Achille Mauzan
1883–1952

M auzan was born on the French Riviera, but moved to Italy in 1905. In addition to being a
decorative illustrator in the Art Deco style, he also painted and sculpted.

62
Achille Mauzan

c. 1920

63
Achille Mauzan

1936

64
Achille Mauzan

1922

65
Leonetto Cappiello
1875–1942

L eonetto Cappiello, who had no formal art

training, was born in Livorno, Italy, and died
in Cannes, France. He worked and lived most of
his life in Paris. He was the first poster artist to use
bold figures popping out of black backgrounds.
He began his career as a caricaturist for numerous
French periodicals. In 1902, a 24-page book of his
caricatures was published entitled Gens du Monde
(People of High Society). At the turn of the century,
however, his interest turned to poster art. His first
poster was for the newspaper Le Frou-Frou in 1899.
Cappiello’s career as a poster artist began in earnest
in 1900 when he contracted with the printer Pierre
Vercasson, who wanted the posters he produced to
stand out from the rest that were posted throughout
the streets of Paris in order to attract lucrative
new advertisers to his agency. After World War I,
Cappiello joined a new agency, Devambez, with
whom he remained until 1936. Devambez’s clients
stretched across Europe, introducing Cappiello and
his work to a broader audience.

66
Leonetto Cappiello

67
Leonetto Cappiello

1899

68
Leonetto Cappiello

1922

69
Leonetto Cappiello

70
Leonetto Cappiello

71
Sandy Hook (George Taboureau)
1879-1960

72
Sandy Hook (George Taboureau)

1920

73
 Marcello Dudovich
1878–1962

M arcello Dudovich was not French but his poster art is readily recognizable to all who
admire vintage posters. Dudovich was born in Trieste, Italy, and remained in Italy during
his career.

A poster boasting of the seaside pleasures

of Rimini, Italy, 1922
74
Marcello Dudovich

1946

75
Marcello Dudovich

76
Marcello Dudovich

1930

77
Leon Benigni
1892–1948

1929

78
Emil Cardinaux
1877–1936

A Swiss artist promoting the summer in

his homeland, 1921

79
Guillaume Roger
1867-1943

An encouragment to head to the south of France

to the Côte d’Azur (or French Riviera), 1926

80
Edouard Courchinoux
1891-1968

An encouragment to head to the north of France to the

village of Le Touquet-Paris-Plage near Calais, 1926

81
Julien Lacaze
1886–1971

82
Julien Lacaze

83
Henry le Monnier
1893-1978

1926

84
Charles Loupot
1892-1962

1929

85
 Paul Colin
1892–1985

P aul Colin, a student of Eugène Vallin and Victor Prouvé, was made famous in 1925 by his
poster for La Revue Nègre, which helped launch the career of the American singer Josephine
Baker, who later became his mistress. Colin worked for over 40 years in the theater, creating
not only posters but also sets and costumes. His first leanings were to the Art Deco style, but he
quickly moved on to develop a highly personal style that is difficult to categorize.

At left, Paul Colin’s

interpretation of
the magnificent and
mysterious dancer
Loïe Fuller

86
 Paul Colin

Josephine Baker (below) bowled

over the Parisians with her
sensual and uninhibited dance
routines in La Revue Nègre.

Josephine Baker as Paul Colin drew her (above) in his

famous poster promoting La Revue Nègre, 1925

87
 Adolphe Mouron (Cassandre)
1901–1968

A dolphe Jean-Marie Mouron, known simply as Cassandre, is credited with developing

innovative graphic-design solutions in advertising. He worked in Paris between the First
and Second World Wars. Cassandre was born in Ukraine, but moved to Paris in the 1920s,
thriving in the city’s creative and artistic environment. After studying at the Ecole des Beaux-
Arts and the Académie Julian, and influenced by Cubist and Surrealist imagery, he began to
incorporate that imagery into his designs in poster making. By the mid-1930s, he was being
commissioned to design magazine covers by such periodicals as Harper’s Bazaar. He was also
an innovator in designing typeface. Cassandre developed Bifur in 1929, the sans serif Acier
Noir in 1935, and in 1937 an all-purpose font called Peignot. In 1936, his works were exhibited
at the Museum of Modern Art in New York City. Today he is best known for his travel posters.
The enormous, hulking prow of the Normandie trans-Atlantic ocean liner (at right) on a poster
created by Cassandre is one of the most famous and iconic in the history of poster designs.

88
Adolphe Mouron (Cassandre)

89
Adolphe Mouron (Cassandre)

90
Adolphe Mouron (Cassandre)

91
 Jean Carlu
1900–1997

J ean Carlu was a French graphic

designer who specialized in posters. In
the early 1920s he worked for an agency
that created advertising campaigns. It was
during these years that he adopted the
Art Deco style for his poster designs. His
fame rests mainly on two posters: one for
Monsavon, a soap company, and another
for the Théâtre Pigalle. He also designed
a label for the 1924 vintage of Château
Mouton-Rothschild (top). During World
War II, the U.S. government hired Carlu,
who had moved to the U.S., to create ads
that would encourage Americans to work
hard and increase production as a form of
patriotism.

92
 Jean Carlu

For the Parisian department store Le Bon Marché

93
Jean Carlu

For Théâtre Pigalle

94
Jean Carlu

For the soap company Monsavon

95
 Index
Beggerstaff, J. & W. 8
Benigni, Leon 78
Berthon, Paul Émile 26
Bertrand, Émile 41
Bonfils, Robert 11
Bouisset, Firmin 40
Cappiello, Leonetto 8, 66
Cardinaux, Emil 79
Carlu, Jean 92
Chéret, Jules 7, 14
Choubrac, Alfred 20
Colin, Paul 86
Courchinoux, Edouard 81
Dangon, Henri 55
de Valerio, Roger 58 Manuel Robbe
Dudovich, Marcello 8, 74
Ferrand, Suzanne 54
Grasset, Eugène 22
Lacaze, Julien 8, 82
le Monnier, Henry 84
Loupot, Charles 85
Mauzan, Achille 62
Mouron, Adolphe (Cassandre) 8, 88
Mucha, Alphonse 7, 42
Privat-Livemont, Henri 46
Robbe, Manuel 96
Roger, Guillaume 8, 80
Senefelder, Alois 4
Steinlen, Théophile 9, 50
Taboureau, George (Sandy Hook) 72
Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri de 6, 30
René Vincent, 1914 Vincent, René 8, 56, 96