cosmetics

Review
Zooceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients Derived from Animals
Luigi Cristiano 1,2, * and Manuela Guagni 2

1 Research and Development Division, Prestige, 52024 Loro Ciuffenna, Italy

2 New Line Academy, 50131 Firenze, Italy; manuela.guagni@mpspec.it
* Correspondence: prestige.infomed@gmail.com

Abstract: Many substances derived from animals are used as ingredients in the cosmetic industry
and constitute a particular type of product: zooceuticals. The main ingredients used can come
from insects, such as snail slime; land animals, such as lanolin; and marine animals, such as marine
collagen. Today, they are used less than in the past for hygienic–sanitary, ethical, and ecological
reasons. Moreover, some can give rise to irritative or allergic dermatitis. However, they still represent
a fraction of the common ingredients in certain types of cosmetic products today.

Keywords: cosmetics; cosmeceutics; zooceuticals; cosmetology; cosmetological chemistry; cosmetic

ingredients; animals; beauty

1. Introduction
Cosmetic products containing ingredients of animal origin or, more generally, of
zoological origin, are called zooceuticals [1,2]. This term is rarely used, and biocosmetics,
cosmeceuticals, or natural cosmetics are spoken of more frequently because they contain



ingredients of natural origin [3]. However, zooceuticals concern all cosmetic products for

 human use. They are not synonymous with “cosmetics for animals”, which are completely
Citation: Cristiano, L.; Guagni, M. different products and are only for veterinary use or for the skin-care or hair-care of pets.
Zooceuticals and Cosmetic The chemicals used as cosmetic ingredients, as is known, can be grouped into three
Ingredients Derived from Animals. main groups of ingredients. The first group consists of the basic ingredients, which form
Cosmetics 2022, 9, 13.
the major quantity of the cosmetic product. The second group is formed by the functional
https://doi.org/10.3390/
substances that give the specificity of action to the cosmetic product, and finally, in the
cosmetics9010013
third group, there are additives, i.e., all substances added in low quantities to improve
Academic Editor: Piera Di Martino the characteristics of the product in terms of quality, safety, texture, appearance, and
pleasantness. Animal-derived ingredients can be used both as basic ingredients and as
Received: 16 December 2021
functional substances or additives, depending on the characteristics of the chemical used.
Accepted: 18 January 2022
Animal-derived ingredients are frequently polyfunctional, such as snail slime, and can
Published: 19 January 2022
contain a variety of substances with various cosmetic actions and uses, even if the majority
Publisher’s Note: MDPI stays neutral of these chemicals are used as functional substances with moisturizing, soothing, anti-aging,
with regard to jurisdictional claims in or, more broadly, conditioning effects for the skin, hair, and/or scalp.
published maps and institutional affil- Animal derivatives, used as ingredients in cosmetics, often do not require the sacrifice
iations.
of the animal—consider, for example, snail slime—or they are replaced by substances
derived from plants, by chemical synthesis, or by biotechnological applications, such as
hyaluronic acid, produced in the laboratory from bacterial cultures. In other cases, however,
they represent by-products of the animal industry, such as crests, horns, hooves, and skin,
Copyright: © 2022 by the authors.
Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland.
and therefore derive from animal sacrifice [4].
This article is an open access article
Today, animal-derived ingredients are less frequently used for various reasons [5].
distributed under the terms and
They include the infectious risk of some derivatives, but also ethical issues (animal cruelty)
conditions of the Creative Commons and concerns regarding the protection of biodiversity and endangered species, such as
Attribution (CC BY) license (https:// whales and turtles [6,7].
creativecommons.org/licenses/by/ In particular, the ethical issues regarding ingredients of animal origin for cosmetics
4.0/). refer both to respect for animals (animals suffer similarly to humans) and to the defense of

Cosmetics 2022, 9, 13. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics9010013 https://www.mdpi.com/journal/cosmetics

Cosmetics 2022, 8, x FOR PEER REVIEW 2 of 13

Cosmetics 2022, 9, 13 2 of 14
In particular, the ethical issues regarding ingredients of animal origin for cosmetics
refer both to respect for animals (animals suffer similarly to humans) and to the defense
of biodiversity
biodiversity in in order
order to to preserve
preserve animalanimal species
species fromfrom extinction.
extinction. ThisThis includes
includes defending
defend-
ingthe
theentire
entireecosystem. Laws have been enacted to protect endangered species of of
ecosystem. Laws have been enacted to protect endangered species ani-
animals,
mals, and hunting for wildlife is regulated in many countries.
and hunting for wildlife is regulated in many countries. In addition, consumer awareness In addition, consumer
awareness
has grown hasingrown in this as
this regard, regard, as has society
has society in general in general
and theand the attention
attention of manu-
of manufacturing
facturing
companies companies
themselves. themselves. Certifications,
Certifications, such as suchvegan asand
vegan andhave
halal, halal, have proliferated
proliferated to ensure
to that
ensurethethat the ingredients
ingredients in cosmetic in cosmetic
products products were obtained
were obtained withoutwithout
causing causing animal or
animal cruelty
cruelty
harm or to harm
animals to animals [8,9]. Ingredients
[8,9]. Ingredients obtainedobtained without suffering
without causing causing suffering
or harm to oranimals,
harm
to such
animals, such as snail slime and the majority of bee derivatives,
as snail slime and the majority of bee derivatives, do not raise any ethical concerns. do not raise any ethical
concerns. The situation
The situation is different is different
as regards as regards
ingredients ingredients
of animal of origin
animalderiving
origin deriving from
from breeding
breeding
and theand meatthe and meat
fishand fish industries:
industries: in this case,in this
theycase, they represent
represent by-products,by-products,
i.e., wastei.e.,from
waste from the production
the production of products of products
intended intended
for food for food consumption
consumption [10]. The[10].useThe use ofby-
of these
these by-products
products in the cosmetic
in the cosmetic industryindustry
is allowed is if
allowed if theywith
they comply comply with
purity, purity,
safety, andsafety,
hygiene
and hygiene requirements.
requirements. However, as However,
mentioned as mentioned
above, where above, wherethey
possible, possible,
have they
beenhave beenby
replaced
replaced by similar vegetable substances or by synthetic
similar vegetable substances or by synthetic derivatives. Moreover, today, many animal derivatives. Moreover, today,
ingredients
many used in pastused
animal ingredients centuries
in past have fallen into
centuries have disuse
fallenbecause they because
into disuse are not effective
they are or
notare dangerous
effective or are to dangerous
health [11].to health [11].
AsAs is is true
true forforallall other
other substances
substances usedused asas cosmetic
cosmetic ingredients,
ingredients, both
both vegetable
vegetable andand
synthetic,
synthetic, ingredients
ingredients of of animal
animal origin,
origin, including
including their
their derivatives,
derivatives, must
must comply
comply with
with thethe
quality,purity,
quality, purity,and andsafety
safetyrequirements
requirements for use use asas ingredients
ingredientsininthe thecosmetic
cosmeticindustry.
industry. Fur-
thermore, they must not be toxic, contain impurities, or pose
Furthermore, they must not be toxic, contain impurities, or pose a health risk to the con- a health risk to the consumer,
including
sumer, the risk
including theof transmission
risk of transmission of infectious agents.
of infectious Toxicity
agents. due to
Toxicity duedermal
to dermalexposure,
ex-
including
posure, irritation,
including sensitization,
irritation, and phototoxicity,
sensitization, and phototoxicity, has been assessed
has been in toxicological
assessed in toxico-
studies,
logical and any
studies, andadverse
any adverse effects are reported
effects in cosmetovigilance
are reported in cosmetovigilance [12]. [12].
To facilitate the classification of cosmetic ingredients
To facilitate the classification of cosmetic ingredients of animal origin, of animal origin, it it is
is possible
possible to
to group them into categories, as proposed by Proserpio and Passerini [13] and reported in
group them into categories, as proposed by Proserpio and Passerini [13] and reported
in Figure
Figure1,1,i.e.,
i.e.,ingredients
ingredients derived
derived fromfrom insects
insects(group
(group A), A),
derived fromfrom
derived landlandanimals (group
animals
B), and derived from marine animals
(group B), and derived from marine animals (group C). (group C).

Figure 1. Grouping
Figure of of
1. Grouping ingredients of of
ingredients animal origin
animal in in
origin zooceuticals.
zooceuticals.

2. 2. Ingredients
Ingredients Derived
Derived from
from Insects
Insects
Substances
Substances derived
derived from
from insects
insects and
and used
used as as ingredients
ingredients in in cosmetic
cosmetic products
products rarely
rarely
result
result from
from animal
animal sacrifice,
sacrifice, andand they
they areare often
often obtained
obtained without
without causing
causing animals
animals to suffer.
to suffer.
Thus, they are, in most cases, cruelty-free. They can be by-products of the bee, snail,and
Thus, they are, in most cases, cruelty-free. They can be by-products of the bee, snail, andsilk
industries. The ingredients derived from these animals, generally grouped
silk industries. The ingredients derived from these animals, generally grouped into the into the so-called
Group A
so-called [13], are
Group usedare
A [13], especially as functional
used especially substances
as functional (for example,
substances snail secretions,
(for example, snail
honey, and silk extract). They are less commonly used as basic ingredients
secretions, honey, and silk extract). They are less commonly used as basic ingredients (for example,
(for
fatty substances such as beeswax) or cosmetic additives (dyes such as carmin/CI 75470).
Cosmetics 2022, 9, 13 3 of 14

Most of the cosmetic ingredients derived from insects come from bees and snails.
Other less-used ingredients are obtained from cochineal, silkworms, and spiders. The most
common cosmetic ingredients derived from insects are listed in Table 1.

Table 1. List of the most common cosmetic ingredients derived from insects (Group A) 1 .

Animal Source Ingredient INCI Name Functions Category

Emollient, emulsifying,
Beeswax Cera alba/Beeswax -
film forming, perfuming
Humectant, skin
Honey Mel Honey cosmetics
conditioning, flavoring
Humectant, skin
Nectar Nectar -
conditioning
Emollient, skin
Bee Pollen Pollen/pollen extract Pollen cosmetics
conditioning
Propolis Propolis cera/extract Skin conditioning -
Royal jelly Royal jelly/R.J. extract Skin conditioning -
Bee venom/Bee venom Astringent, skin
Bee venom -
extract conditioning
hydrolyzed bee larva
Bee larva Skin conditioning -
extract/queen bee larva
Beetle larva Beetle larva extract Skin conditioning -
Beetle Mealworm beetle (larva) Humectant, skin
Mealworm larva extract -
(Tenebrio molitor) conditioning
Carmine cochineal CI 75470 (carmin/natural Colorant, cosmetic
-
(Dactylopius coccus) red 4) pigment
Cochineal Emollient, film forming,
Lacquer cochineal (Kerria Shellac/shellac
hair fixing, viscosity -
lacca-Laccifer lacca) wax/shellac cera
controlling
Smoothing, antistatic,
Sericin Sericin -
skin/hair conditioning
Silk Silk/Silk extract/Serica Skin/hair conditioning -
Silkworm
Hydrolyzed silk/H. silk Antistatic, humectant,
Silk (hydrolyzed) -
protein skin/hair conditioning
Silkworm extract Bombyx mori extract Skin conditioning -
Soothing, skin/hair
Allantoin (snail’s slime) Allantoin Snail cosmetics
conditioning
Egg Snail Egg Extract Skin conditioning Snail cosmetics
Snail Slime Extract/Snail
Skin conditioning,
Slime Secretion Filtrate/Snail Snail cosmetics
Snail antioxidant, humectant
Mucus Filtrate
Helix Aspersa Skin conditioning,
Slime (Helix aspersa muller) Snail cosmetics
Extract/Elicina® antioxidant, humectant
Skin conditioning,
Snail (Pomacea canaliculata) Snail Extract Snail cosmetics
antioxidant, humectant
Spider
Peptides (spider web) Skin/hair conditioning -
polypeptide-1/SP-4
Spider
Spider web Spider Web Extract Skin/hair conditioning -
Spider web (hydrolyzed) Hydrolyzed spider web Skin conditioning -
1 Reworked by Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 (annexes III, IV), Commission Decision (EU) 2019/701, CosIng
database, InciDecoder database, INCI Beauty database, Proserpio and Contini [14].

Carmine (INCI: carmin), also known as natural red 4 or, more formally, CI 75470, is
obtained from Carmine cochineal (Dactylopius coccus). It is used as a pigment [15] and it
can be found in various cosmetic products with an aesthetic–decorative function, such as
lipsticks, eyeshadow, blush, nail polish, foundation, and concealer.
Cosmetics 2022, 9, 13 4 of 14

Shellac (INCI: Shellac/shellac wax/shellac cera) is the resinous secretion obtained

from Lacquer cochineal (Kerria lacca) and it is used as an ingredient in various cosmetic
products, such as shampoos, nail polish, hairsprays, mascara, and lipsticks [16].
Silk, sericin, and their derivatives are often used in hair products, such as shampoo
and conditioner, while an innovative ingredient is represented by polypeptides, obtained
from spider web silk and used in various types of cosmetic products for the skin and hair.

2.1. Bee Derivatives

We know that bees, with their precious work, are the basis of the balance of our
ecosystem. Many plant species would become extinct if they were not present, having
serious consequences for the ecosystem, the food chain, and humans. Bees provide valuable
hive products, such as honey, pollen, royal jelly, beeswax, and propolis, which have always
been used and appreciated by people, in terms of both nutrition and as cosmetic ingredients.
Bee venom is also added as a cosmetic ingredient [17].
One of the most commonly used cosmetic ingredients is honey (INCI: Mel). Honey is a
functional substance used as a moisturizer and emollient. It deeply nourishes the epidermis
and is rich in enzymes that are able to help with natural skin exfoliation [18]. It is added in
the formulation of many cosmetic products, such as for dry and mature skin, and is widely
used in night creams. It is also used in shampoos for light hair because it highlights the
natural reflections and leaves the hair protected and bright [19]. Nothing prevents the use
of common foods such as honey to prepare multipurpose masks. A nourishing mask can
be obtained by mixing two generous spoons of honey with a few drops of lemon and a
spoonful of extra virgin olive oil. Once the mixture has been prepared, it should be applied
to the previously cleansed face and can be kept in place for up to fifteen minutes. The mask
can then be removed with warm water. A honey scrub, on the other hand, can be obtained
by mixing three tablespoons of honey with two to three tablespoons of whole brown sugar.
The mixture thus obtained can be massaged all over the body and left on for approximately
ten minutes. It can later be removed with warm water.
Another bee product widely used as an ingredient in cosmetics is beeswax (INCI:
Beeswax). It is used both as a functional substance and as a base ingredient (stabilizer
for emulsions, surfactant, emulsifying) or additive (rheological additive, viscosity control,
texturizer, perfuming). Used as a functional substance, it has film-forming and eutrophic
properties and is suitable for all skin types. It is also useful when applied to pimples
because it is highly antibacterial and healing [20]. It minimizes expressive wrinkles and
counteracts skin atony. In addition to the numerous cosmetic products on the market,
creams can be prepared using solid beeswax grains, dissolving them in a bain-marie and
customizing the preparations with the addition of various other ingredients—for example,
with lavender essential oil for the treatment of impure skin, with lemon essential oil to have
a greater antibacterial and skin-purifying action, and with olive oil to prepare an excellent
butter for the lips.
Propolis (INCI: Propolis extract) is rich in flavonoids and phenols and has a positive
action on blood circulation and capillary fragility [21]. It is often present in hand creams
and anti-wrinkle creams for its strong nourishing and repairing action [22]. It can also be
used in cleansers for oily and acne-prone skin, thanks to its purifying action [21,23].
Pollen (INCI: Pollen) can be mixed into vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil or rice oil,
to obtain pollen oil [24]. This preparation is rich in vitamins such as vitamin A, vitamin C,
pantothenic acid, and flavonoids. It is highly recommended for tired and impoverished skin.
This oleolite can also be used on cracked elbows and heels to repair cracks more quickly.
Royal jelly (INCI: Royal jelly) stimulates cell metabolism and, for this reason, it is
often used as an ingredient in anti-aging cosmetic products [25]. It is also very useful
for regulating the secretions of the sebaceous glands and therefore can also be used on
oily-prone skin. It is often present in many cosmetics for the care of the eye and lip area.
Bee venom (INCI: Bee venom) is a substance extracted from bees. It is a complex mix-
ture of various substances, including enzymes, lipids, peptides, and bioactive amines [26].
Cosmetics 2022, 9, 13 5 of 14

It is also known as apitoxin and is used in cosmetics as an astringent and for its anti-
inflammatory, anti-ageing [27], and anti-bacterial [28] properties. It represents a new entry
into the cosmetic field, particularly for mature skin. It is often considered among the botox-
like substances and is able both to promote the production of collagen and elastin and
to act on the cutaneous neurotransmission mechanisms with the relaxation of the mimic
muscles [29]. The effect obtained, as with the other botox-like molecules, is a transitory
lifting effect.
Propolis and beeswax are substances that cause frequent allergic reactions (allergic
contact dermatitis) and are therefore considered allergens [30,31].

2.2. Snail Derivatives

Snail slime is a complex secretion produced by snails. It is generally obtained from a
genus of snail called Helix aspersa muller in a cruelty-free way, without animal sacrifice.
Nowadays, the interest of the cosmetic industry in skin applications and the benefits
of snail slime is very high. The first studies on garden snails (Helix aspersa muller) began
in 1958 with Melnick’s preliminary analysis [32] and continued with Williams’s work on
snail mucus [33]. Initially, snails were used only as a food source, but in some snail farms,
during the harvesting process, which involved the cleaning and manual handling of the
animals, the skin was observed to be soft after being in contact with the snail secretion.
Moreover, small cuts healed quickly, without infection or scarring [34]. This evidence has
prompted some researchers to better analyze snail mucus to understand this interesting
property.
Snail secretion consists of a dilute network of polymers, usually containing more
than 95% water [35]. It contains various substances, including allantoin, elastin, collagen,
mucopolysaccharides, glycolic acid, and vitamins. Mucous secretion is industrially treated
before being added to creams, cleansers, and serums.
Snail slime has numerous properties: soothing and moisturizing, nourishing the
skin, exfoliating and purifying, anti-wrinkle, anti-stretch marks, and anti-blemishes on the
skin [36].

3. Ingredients Derived from Land Animals

Substances derived from land animals and used as ingredients in cosmetic products
often result from animal sacrifice and/or are by-products of the meat and livestock in-
dustries. While, in the past, these substances were widely used, today, their use has been
reduced in favor of the use of plant analogs or synthetic substances. The exclusion of some
natural ingredients, such as civet oil and ambergris, is due to the protection of endangered
species, to ethical issues related to violence against animals, and to health and hygiene
issues [5–7,11].
The ingredients derived from land animals, generally grouped into the so-called
Group B, are used both as basic ingredients (for example, fats and fatty substances such
as lanolin) and especially as functional substances (for example, hyaluronic acid, collagen,
elastin, and keratin) in very different cosmetic products and for the most diverse uses, from
moisturizing products for dry skin to anti-aging products. They are used less frequently as
cosmetic additives.
Most of the cosmetic ingredients derived from land animals come from the cattle
industry, especially collagen, elastin, and keratin. This is followed by the sheep industry,
particularly for the extraction of lanolin, and the poultry industry to obtain the animal
source of hyaluronic acid. Fats, milk, and other less-used ingredients are obtained from
ducks, camels, horses, donkeys, minks, ostriches, pigs, and reptiles. The most common
cosmetic ingredients derived from land animals are listed in Table 2.
Cosmetics 2022, 9, 13 6 of 14

Table 2. List of the most common cosmetic ingredients derived from land animals (Group B) 1 .

Animal Source Ingredient INCI Name Functions Category

Bear Fat Bear oil Skin conditioning -
Castoreum/castoreum
Beaver Castoreum 2 Fragrance -
oil
Soothing, skin
Allantoin (urine) Allantoin conditioning, skin -
protecting
Moisturizing, skin
Amniotic fluid Amniotic fluid -
conditioning
Moisturizing, skin
Bovine amniotic fluid Amniotic Fluid -
conditioning
Moisturizing, skin/hair
Collagen (ligaments) Collagen -
conditioning
Humectant, antistatic,
Collagen (hydrolyzed) Hydrolyzed collagen emollient, film forming, -
skin/hair conditioning
Elastin (ligaments) Elastin Soothing, skin conditioning -
Hydrolyzed elastin/E. Emollient, skin/hair
Elastin (hydrolyzed) -
amino acids conditioning
Emollient, skin
Fat (buffalo) Buffalo fat -
conditioning
Emollient, skin
Fat (tallow) Sodium tallowate -
conditioning
Bovine Bile (bovine) Gall Skin conditioning -
Keratin (horns, hairs,
Keratin Skin/hair conditioning -
hooves)
Humectant, antistatic, film
Hydrolyzed keratin/K.
Keratin (hydrolyzed) forming, skin/hair -
amino acids
conditioning
Milk Lac/Milk Skin conditioning Milk cosmetics
Milk (buffalo) Whole dry buffalo milk Skin conditioning Milk cosmetics
Antistatic, skin/hair
Milk (casein) Casein/Casein extract Milk cosmetics
conditioning
Antistatic, skin/hair
Milk (casein, hydrolyzed) Hydrolyzed casein Milk cosmetics
conditioning
Milk (yak) Yak milk Skin conditioning Milk cosmetics
Placental
Placenta [37] extract/Placental Skin conditioning -
protein
Hydrolyzed Placental
Placenta (Hydrolyzed) [37] Skin conditioning -
Extract
Sperm (bull: Aberdeen
Aberdeen Angus bull Skin conditioning -
Angus)
Camel milk/Camel
Camel Milk Skin conditioning Milk cosmetics
milk extract
Cosmetics 2022, 9, 13 7 of 14

Table 2. Cont.

Animal Source Ingredient INCI Name Functions Category

Albumen/Albumen Film forming, skin/hair
Albumen -
extract conditioning
Antistatic, viscosity
Albumen (hydrolyzed) Hydrolyzed Albumen controlling, skin/hair -
Chicken conditioning
Egg Egg/Egg extract Skin/hair conditioning Egg cosmetics
Humectant, antistatic,
Hydrolyzed chicken
Hyaluronic acid (ridges) moisturizing, film forming, -
cartilage extract
skin conditioning
Moisturizing, skin
Embryo Duck embryo extract -
Duck conditioning
Fat Duck fat Skin conditioning -
Emollient, skin
Emu Fat (oil) Emu oil -
conditioning
Emollient, skin
Fat (donkey) [38] Donkey Oil Milk cosmetics
conditioning
Horse fat/oil/H. tissue Emollient, skin
Fat (horse) [38] -
Equine extract conditioning
Equus asinus
Milk (donkey) Skin conditioning Milk cosmetics
lac/donkey milk
Milk (horse) Equae lac/Mare milk Skin conditioning Milk cosmetics
Mink/Civet Mustele Oil/Civet oil Mink Oil/Civet oil Skin/hair conditioning -
Antimicrobial, emollient,
Egg Ostrich egg yolk extract Egg cosmetics
skin conditioning
Ostrich
Emollient, skin/hair
Fat (oil) Ostrich oil -
conditioning
Fat (goat milk) Caprae Butyrum Skin conditioning Milk cosmetics
Emollient, antistatic,
Lanolin
Lanolin (fleece) Lanolin emulsifying, surfactant,
cosmetics
skin/hair conditioning
Emollient, antistatic,
Ovine/caprine Lanolin *, PEG * emulsifying, surfactant, Lanolin
Lanolin derivatives
lanolin, * lanolin, etc. viscosity controlling, cosmetics
skin/hair conditioning
Milk (sheep) Sheep milk Skin conditioning Milk cosmetics
Caprae lac/Caprae Lac
Milk (goat) Skin conditioning Milk cosmetics
Extract
Cosmetics 2022, 9, 13 8 of 14

Table 2. Cont.

Animal Source Ingredient INCI Name Functions Category

Emollient, skin
Fat/oil (crocodile) Crocodile oil -
conditioning
Emollient, skin
Fat/oil (snake) Snake oil -
conditioning
Reptiles
Fat/oil (snake: Agkistrodon
Mamushi oil Skin conditioning -
halys blomhoffi)
Viper venom/viper v.
Viper venom 3 Skin conditioning -
extract/snake v.
Emollient, skin
Lard Hydrogenated lard -
conditioning
Hydrolyzed Placental
Placenta (hydrolyzed) [37] Skin conditioning -
Extract
Swine
Emulsifying, surfactant,
Stearic acid Stearic acid -
viscosity controlling
Anticaking, bulking,
Magnesium stearate 4 Magnesium stearate cosmetic colorant, -
moisturizing
1Reworked by Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 (annexes III, IV), Commission Decision (EU) 2019/701, CosIng
database, InciDecoder database, INCI Beauty database, Proserpio and Contini [14]; 2 Today, it is rarely used and
only in luxury perfumery. 3 It is not the snake’s venom but a synthetic substance called Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl
Benzylamide Diacetate, which mimics its effects (it is one of the botox-like substances and, in particular, of the
biomimetic peptides). 4 Depending on the source, it can be plant- or animal-derived [15].

Lanolin, including its fractions (INCI: lanolin/lanolin cera/lanolin wax/lanolin oil), is

a wax secreted by sheep’s skin that is obtained from the processing of wool. This substance
accumulates on the woolly fleece as a natural protective and emollient for the animal and
is formed by a mixture of chemical compounds, including esters of fatty acids and choles-
terol [15]. The main derivatives of lanolin used as cosmetic ingredients are: acetylated
lanolin (INCI: acetylated lanolin/acetylated hydrogenated lanolin), hydrogenated lano-
lin (INCI: hydrogenated lanolin/PEG-20 hydrogenated lanolin/acetylated hydrogenated
lanolin), hydroxylated lanolin (INCI: hydroxylated lanolin), lanolin alcohols (INCI: lano-
lin alcohol/acetylated lanolin alcohol/PPG-20 lanolin alcohol ether), and other derivates
(INCI: Lanolin Acid/PEG-NN lanolin, where NN is a number). It is widely used in creams
and lip products and is rarely used in hair-care products. Lanolin is also a substance that
causes frequent allergic reactions (allergic contact dermatitis) and is therefore considered
an allergen [31]
One of the most commonly used ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics as a functional
substance is collagen (and its derivatives). Natural sources of collagen are some animal sources,
such as farmed land animals (bovines, swine), and some marine animals (fishes) [39,40]. The
main sources of collagen are shown in Figure 2.
Following the epidemic of bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE), especially for
cattle (mad cow disease), but also after transmissible spongiform encephalopathy (TSE),
and avian and swine influences, many producers have chosen to resort to plant or synthetic
analogs of animal derivatives in order not to run into problems regarding the safety of raw
materials to be used as ingredients in cosmetic products [41].
 sources, such as farmed land animals (bovines, swine), and some marine animals (fishes)
[39,40]. The main sources of collagen are shown in Figure 2.
Following the epidemic of bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE), especially for
cattle (mad cow disease), but also after transmissible spongiform encephalopathy (TSE),
and avian and swine influences, many producers have chosen to resort to plant or syn-
Cosmetics 2022, 9, 13 9 of 14
thetic analogs of animal derivatives in order not to run into problems regarding the safety
of raw materials to be used as ingredients in cosmetic products [41].

Figure
Figure2.2.The
Themain
mainsources
sourcesofofcollagen
collagen(created
(created with
with BioRender.com (accessed on
BioRender.com (accessed on 10
10December
December2021);
2021); reworked
reworked by [39,42]).
by [39,42]).

Aswith
As withcollagen,
collagen,elastin
elastinand
anditsits derivatives
derivatives (INCI:
(INCI: elastin/hydrolyzed
elastin/hydrolyzedelastin) elastin)areare
popularinincreams
popular creamsand andanti-aging
anti-agingproducts.
products.ItItisiscommonly
commonlyextracted
extractedfrom fromthetheaorta
aortaoror
vertebraeofofcattle
vertebrae cattle[43].
[43].
Keratinand
Keratin anditsitsderivatives
derivatives (INCI: Keratin/hydrolyzed keratin) keratin) arearewidely
widelyusedusedboth
bothin
hair-care products (such as shampoo, conditioner, and hair masks)
in hair-care products (such as shampoo, conditioner, and hair masks) and nail-care prod- and nail-care products
(strengthening
ucts (strengthening nail nail
polishes). Keratin
polishes). is commonly
Keratin extracted
is commonly fromfrom
extracted the nails, feathers,
the nails, horns,
feathers,
hair, claws,
horns, and hooves
hair, claws, of various
and hooves animals
of various [44]. [44].
animals
Hyaluronicacid
Hyaluronic acidisisaavery
verypopular
popularcosmetic
cosmeticingredient,
ingredient,used
usedasasa afunctional
functionalsubstance
substance
ininmany
manyskincare
skincareproducts,
products, from
from skin
skin hydration
hydration products
productsto toanti-aging
anti-agingproducts,
products,ininvarious
vari-
ous cosmetic forms (creams, serums, shock vials). The animal source is the combs onheads
cosmetic forms (creams, serums, shock vials). The animal source is the combs on the the
of roosters
heads [45]. It[45].
of roosters is generally used asused
It is generally an ingredient in threeindifferent
as an ingredient formulations,
three different i.e., high-
formulations,
molecular-weight
i.e., high-molecular-weightto create toancreate
invisible film withfilm
an invisible a skin barrier
with a skinfunction
barrier(INCI: hyaluronic
function (INCI:
acid), medium-molecular-weight as a surface moisturizer, and low-molecular-weight
hyaluronic acid), medium-molecular-weight as a surface moisturizer, and low-molecular- as a
skin moisturizer (INCI: hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid) [46–48].
weight as a skin moisturizer (INCI: hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid) [46–48].
Otheringredients
Other ingredientsderived
derivedfromfromterrestrial
terrestrialanimals
animalsarearenonolonger
longerused
usedandandhave
havethere-
there-
fore fallen into disuse as they lack any real cosmetic effect or efficacy,
fore fallen into disuse as they lack any real cosmetic effect or efficacy, linked to popular linked to popular
traditions and pseudo-sciences of past centuries (magical–alchemical traditions) or are even
traditions and pseudo-sciences of past centuries (magical–alchemical traditions) or are
dangerous to human health. Some examples are goat feces, dog feces, rat feces, pig brain,
even dangerous to human health. Some examples are goat feces, dog feces, rat feces, pig
ram’s fat, chicken feather juice, turtle blood and oil, and toad blood [11]. Furthermore, some
brain, ram’s fat, chicken feather juice, turtle blood and oil, and toad blood [11]. Further-
ingredients, such as milk (cow, horse, donkey), milk proteins, casein, milk derivatives, and
more, some ingredients, such as milk (cow, horse, donkey), milk proteins, casein, milk
the aforementioned lanolin, can cause dermatitis or allergies in sensitive and predisposed
subjects [30].

4. Ingredients Derived from Marine Animals

Substances derived from marine animals and used as ingredients in cosmetic products
often result from animal sacrifice and/or are by-products of the fishing industry. Some
of these substances have been replaced with plant analogs or synthetic substances, as
happened with ambergris.
Ingredients derived from marine animals, generally grouped into the so-called Group
C, are mainly used as functional substances (for example, marine collagen). In other cases,
they are used as basic ingredients (for example, fish oil) or as cosmetic additives.
Most of the cosmetic ingredients of marine animals come from fish and some from
crustaceans. Other ingredients, such as plankton, cuttlefish extract, and fish semen, are
rarely used and are often found in high-end cosmetic products.
Cosmetics 2022, 9, 13 10 of 14

The most common cosmetic ingredients derived from marine animals are listed in
Table 3.
Table 3. List of the most common cosmetic ingredients derived from marine animals (Group C) 1 .

Animal Source Ingredient INCI Name Function Category

Cephalopods Cuttlefish Sepia extract Skin conditioning -
Cetacean Ambergris 2 Musk ambrette Fragrance -
Cartilage Fish cartilage extract Skin conditioning -
Collagen Soluble Fish Collagen Skin conditioning -
Hydrolyzed Marine Moisturizing, skin/hair
Collagen (Hydrolyzed) -
Collagen conditioning
DNA DNA/Hydrolyzed DNA Skin conditioning -
Emollient, skin
Fat (codfish) Cod Liver Oil -
conditioning
Fish oil/hydrogenated fish Emollient, skin
Fat (oil) -
Fish oil conditioning
Emollient, skin
Fat (shark) Shark Liver Oil -
conditioning
Egg [38] Salmon Egg Skin/hair conditioning Egg cosmetics
Emollient, humectant, skin
Fin extract (Isurus oxyrinchus) Shark Fin Extract -
conditioning
Hydrolyzed salmon ovary Emollient, skin
Ovary -
extract conditioning
Semen Spermidine/sperm Skin conditioning -
Emollient, antistatic,
Squalene (shark liver) 3 Squalene -
skin/hair conditioning
Collagen (Rhopilema asamushi,
Stomolophus meleagris, Moisturizing, skin/hair
Collagen -
Jellyfish Catostylus tagi, Rhizostoma conditioning
pulmo) [40]
Humectant, skin
Jellyfish Jellyfish extract -
conditioning
Plankton
Plankton Plankton Plankton extract Skin conditioning
cosmetics
Collagen (Geodia cydonium, Moisturizing, skin/hair
Collagen -
Speriditae, and Icinia fusca) [40] conditioning

Porifer Emollient, skin

Sponge Sponge/Sponge extract -
conditioning
Hydrolyzed Sponge/Hydr. Emollient, skin
Sponge (hydrolyzed) -
Sp. Extract conditioning
Seal Seal (fatty tissue) Seal oil Skin conditioning -
Chitin/chitosan [3] Chitosan Film forming, hair fixing -
Shellfish Film forming, skin/hair
Chitosan (hydrolyzed) Hydrolyzed chitosan -
conditioning
Starfish
Starfish Starfish powder [38] extract/Hydrolyzed Skin conditioning -
starfish extract
1 Reworked by Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 (annexes III, IV), Commission Decision (EU) 2019/701, CosIng
database, InciDecoder database, INCI Beauty database, Proserpio and Contini [14]. 2 Rarely natural (obtained
from beached dead animals); today, obtained by chemical synthesis. 3 Replaced by squalane, a plant-derived
substance (from vegetable oils).
 other cases, they are used as basic ingredients (for example, fish oil) or as cosmetic addi-
tives.
Most of the cosmetic ingredients of marine animals come from fish and some from
crustaceans. Other ingredients, such as plankton, cuttlefish extract, and fish semen, are
Cosmetics 2022, 9, 13 rarely used and are often found in high-end cosmetic products. 11 of 14
The most common cosmetic ingredients derived from marine animals are listed in
Table 3.
Ambergris is a strongly odorous substance produced by the intestines of sperm
Ambergris is a strongly odorous substance produced by the intestines of sperm whales
whales (Physeter macrocephalus). Its purpose is to defend the intestinal mucous membranes
(Physeter macrocephalus). Its purpose is to defend the intestinal mucous membranes from
from the indigestible remains of the mollusks that the sperm whales eat, hardening
the indigestible remains of the mollusks that the sperm whales eat, hardening around them
around them and incorporating them [49].
and incorporating them [49].
The term ambergris is derived from the Old French “ambre gris,” which means “gray
The term ambergris is derived from the Old French “ambre gris,” which means “gray
amber,” as opposed to “yellow amber,” which refers to resinous amber [50]. It was used
amber,” as opposed to “yellow amber,” which refers to resinous amber [50]. It was used for
formaking
makingperfumes.
perfumes.
Chemically,
Chemically,ambergris
ambergrisconsists mainly
consists of a mixture
mainly of waxy,
of a mixture unsaturated,
of waxy, high-mo-
unsaturated, high-
lecular-weight alcohols
molecular-weight [50], and
alcohols theand
[50], mainthechemical constituent
main chemical is ambrein.
constituent Other chemi-
is ambrein. Other
cals, such as epicoprosterol
chemicals, and coprosterol,
such as epicoprosterol have also
and coprosterol, been
have found,
also beenbut ambrein
found, is the sub-
but ambrein is the
stance that gives ambergris its typical odor [51]. The mechanism of formation
substance that gives ambergris its typical odor [51]. The mechanism of formation of the typical
of the
ambergris odor is shown
typical ambergris odor in
is Figure
shown 3. in Figure 3.

Figure 3. The
Figure mechanism
3. The mechanism of formation of the
of formation typical
of the ambergris
typical ambergrisodor: duedue
odor: to the oxidative
to the decom-
oxidative decom-
position by by
position seawater, air,air,
seawater, and/or sunlight,
and/or ambrafuran
sunlight, ambrafuranis generated
is generatedfrom thethe
from ambrein (created
ambrein with
(created with
BioRender.com
BioRender.com(accessed onon
(accessed 10 10
December
December2021); reworked
2021); reworked byby
[52]).
[52]).

Ambergris
Ambergris hashas
now nowbecome
become extremely
extremely rare as as
rare thethe
sperm whale
sperm is aisprotected
whale a protectedspecies
species
and cannot
and cannotbe be
hunted,
hunted, so so
it has been
it has been replaced
replaced bybysynthetic substances.
synthetic substances. MoreMorerarely, it isit is
rarely,
possible to use
possible thethe
to use natural
naturaloneone
if itifisit taken
is takenfrom beached
from beacheddead
deadanimals,
animals, or or
sometimes
sometimes it isit is
recovered
recoveredbybyfishermen
fishermen when
whenambergris
ambergris is regurgitated
is regurgitated byby
thethe
animal.
animal.
Chitosan
Chitosanandanditsits
derivatives
derivatives(INCI:(INCI:chitosan/Hydrolyzed
chitosan/Hydrolyzedchitosan)
chitosan)are are linear poly-
linear polysac-
charides composed of → 4)-linked D-glucosamine and
saccharides composed of β-(1→4)-linked D-glucosamine and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine
β-(1 N-acetyl-D-glucosamine that can
be obtained from the chitin shells of shrimp and other crustaceans [15]. It is a by-product of
the fishing industry. Chitosan and its derivatives are used as cosmetic ingredients in dental,
skin, hair, and nail products [53].

5. Conclusions
In cosmetics, various substances of animal origin are used as ingredients. Products
that contain animal derivates, in part (such as some types of face creams) or wholly (such
as snail slime serums), are called zooceuticals.
The most common ingredients are beeswax, snail’s slime and derivates, collagen,
elastin, keratin and their respective hydrolyzed derivates, hyaluronic acid and derivates,
lanolin and derivates, and chitosan. Other types of ingredients are used less frequently or in
specific products, such as nail-care or hair-care, and many substances are now replaced by
similar molecules extracted from plants, or of biotechnological or synthetic origin. This is
due to hygienic–sanitary needs (preventing the spread of diseases, such as TSE/BSE), and
ethical (cruelty-free) and ecological (safeguarding species in danger of extinction) concerns.
Over the years, in fact, the sensitivity of consumers has greatly increased and the laws
have rightly become more stringent in terms of the safety, ethics, and quality of cosmetic
Cosmetics 2022, 9, 13 12 of 14

products (also thanks to the improvement of scientific knowledge and cosmetovigilance).

Consequently, the attention of producers has also increased, and INCI formulas of cosmetic
products today take into account all these factors, as well as compliance with other volun-
tary standards such as vegan, organic, kosher, and halal, which include or exclude one,
more, or all ingredients of animal origin [54].

Author Contributions: Writing—original draft preparation, L.C.; writing—review and editing, L.C.;
visualization, L.C., M.G.; cosmetic applications and bee derivatives, M.G. All authors have read and
agreed to the published version of the manuscript.
Funding: This research received no external funding.
Institutional Review Board Statement: Not applicable.
Informed Consent Statement: Not applicable.
Data Availability Statement: The data presented in this study are openly available in CosIng
database (https://ec.europa.eu/growth/sectors/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredient-database_en (ac-
cessed on 6 December 2021)), InciDecoder database (https://incidecoder.com/ (accessed on 9 De-
cember 2021), INCI Beauty database (https://incibeauty.com/en (accessed on 9 December 2021)) and
in the references given in the tables and in the bibliography cited.
Conflicts of Interest: The authors declare no conflict of interest.

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