Hebrides Shrug
Hebrides Shrug
Hebrides Shrug
Hebrides
Hebrides
is
a
simple
shrug
or
cardigan
for
your
special
little
person.
The
style
is
open
and
without
closures,
leaving
your
little
one
free
to
move
easily.
It
is
seamless,
raglan-‐style,
and
knit
from
the
top
down.
The
body
of
the
garment
is
worked
flat
and
the
sleeves
are
worked
in
the
round.
Options
include
stockinette
or
garter
stitch
for
the
lower
body
&
a
ribbed
or
picot
edge.
Instructions
for
short
sleeves,
elbow
length,
or
long
sleeves
are
provided.
Requiring
a
relatively
small
amount
of
yarn
&
time,
it
is
a
perfect
beginner
project
or
last
minute
gift.
Gauge:
20
stitches
&
28
rows
to
4
inches
/
10cm
in
stockinette
stitch
on
size
US
7
/
4.5
mm
needles
Size:
3mo
(6mo,
12mo,
18mo,
2T,
4T)
Finished
chest
measurement
(approx):
19
(20,
22,
23,
24,
27)
inches
/
48
(51,
56,
58.5,
61,
68.5)
cm
Hebrides 2
Materials
Yarn:
Worsted
weight
yarn
Approximately
200
(250,
300,
350,
400,
450)
yards
Yardage
will
vary
depending
on
the
options
you
choose.
When
in
doubt,
purchase
the
extra
skein!
If
using
a
contrasting
color
for
the
collar,
edges,
and
hems,
it
should
be
about
20%
of
your
total
yardage.
Needles:
US
size
7
/
4.5
mm,
DPN
and
16”
/
40
cm
&
32”
/
80
cm
or
longer
circular
needles
(or
size
needed
to
obtain
gauge)
Other:
Tapestry
needle
Waste
yarn
4
Stitch
markers
Measuring
tape
Skills:
Basic
knitting
techniques
(knit,
purl,
increasing,
decreasing),
backwards
loop
cast
on
(or
preferred
other
method
for
casting
on
in
the
middle
of
a
row),
knitting
in
the
round
Abbreviations
BO:
bind
off
BRM:
beginning
of
the
round
marker
CC:
contrasting
color
CO:
cast
on
K:
knit
KFB:
an
increase
worked
by
knitting
into
the
front
and
back
of
a
stitch
before
slipping
it
off
the
left
needle
LH:
left
hand
MC:
main
color
P:
purl
PM:
place
marker
RH:
right
hand
RS:
right
side
PU:
pick
up
a
stitch
SL1P:
slip
a
stitch
purl
wise
SM:
slip
marker
WS:
wrong
side
Note:
Pattern
instructions
are
indicated
for
the
smallest
size,
with
larger
sizes
appearing
in
parentheses.
If
there
are
no
parentheses,
the
instruction
applies
to
all
sizes.
Before
knitting,
it
is
strongly
encouraged
that
you
read
through
the
pattern
completely.
It
may
be
helpful
to
highlight
the
desired
options
in
your
chosen
size
before
beginning
the
project.
Cast on
Using
MC,
CO
with
US
size
7
needle
(or
needle
size
used
to
obtain
gauge)
38
(40,
42,
44,
46,
48)
as
follows:
CO
1,
PM,
CO
10,
PM,
CO
16
(18,
20,
22,
24,
26),
PM,
CO
10,
PM,
CO
1
The
stitches
before
the
1st
marker
and
after
the
4th
marker
will
form
the
front
of
the
garment.
The
stitches
between
the
1st
&
2nd
markers
are
the
left
sleeve
stitches,
and
the
stitches
between
the
2nd
&
3rd
markers
are
the
back
of
the
sweater.
The
right
sleeve
stitches
are
between
the
3rd
&
4th
markers.
Proceed
on
to
yoke.
Yoke
Set up rows
The
pattern
will
be
worked
on
the
right
side.
All
markers
will
be
slipped
as
you
come
to
them.
First,
work
3
set
up
rows
below:
Row
1
(WS):
Purl
to
end
Row
2
(RS):
KFB,
SM,
KFB,
*Knit
to
1
stitch
before
next
marker,
KFB,
SM,
KFB
repeat
from
*
to
end
Row
3
(WS):
Purl
to
end
Total
number
of
stitches
on
the
needles
will
be
46
(48,
50,
52,
54,
56).
Proceed
on
to
begin
the
yoke
increases.
Yoke increases
The
yoke
will
be
formed
by
working
the
four
row
pattern
below.
st
Row
1
(RS):
KFB,
knit
to
1
marker,
SM,
KFB,
*knit
to
1
stitch
before
next
marker,
KFB,
SM,
KFB
repeat
from
th
*
for
each
marker
until
1
stitch
before
4
marker,
KFB,
SM,
knit
to
last
stitch,
KFB
Row
2
(WS)
&
all
even
rows:
Purl
to
end
st
Row
3:
Knit
to
1
marker,
SM,
KFB,
*knit
1
stitch
before
next
marker,
KFB,
SM,
KFB
repeat
from
*
for
each
th
marker
until
1
stitch
before
4
marker,
KFB,
SM,
knit
to
end
Repeat
above
until
there
are
74
(90,
106,
108,
124,
126)
total
stitches
remaining
on
the
needles.
End
after
completing
a
WS
row.
Final yoke shaping
Next,
work
the
final
increases
to
shape
the
remainder
of
the
yoke
by
following
the
2
row
pattern
as
written
below.
st
Row
1
(RS):
Knit
to
1
marker,
SM,
KFB,
*Knit
to
1
stitch
before
next
marker,
KFB,
SM,
KFB
repeat
from
*
for
th
each
marker
until
1
stitch
before
4
marker,
KFB,
SM,
knit
to
end
Row
2
(WS):
Purl
to
end
Repeat
above
until
there
are
34
(36,
38,
40,
42,
48)
stitches
in
each
sleeve.
End
after
completing
a
WS
row.
Total
number
of
stitches
remaining
on
the
needles
will
be
116
(126,
136,
144,
154,
174).
Divide the sleeves
In
order
to
divide
the
sleeves,
work
as
follows:
knit
to
1st
marker
&
remove
it,
place
34
(36,
38,
40,
42,
48)
nd
sleeve
stitches
on
waste
yarn,
CO
1
using
the
backwards
loop
or
your
desired
method,
remove
2
marker,
rd
knit
to
3
marker
&
remove
it,
place
34
(36,
38,
40,
42,
48)
sleeve
stitches
on
waste
yarn,
CO
1
using
the
th
backwards
loop
or
your
desired
method,
remove
4
marker,
knit
to
end.
Total
number
of
stitches
left
on
needles
will
be
50
(56,
62,
66,
72,
80).
Sweater Body
The
lower
part
of
the
sweater
body
will
now
be
shaped.
Choose
from
the
two
options
below.
For
stockinette,
switch
to
CC
on
Row
1
if
desired.
For
garter
stitch,
if
CC
is
desired,
purl
one
row
in
CC
then
begin
to
work
as
directed
below.
Option
1:
Stockinette
Option
2:
Garter
stitch
Row
1
(WS):
Purl
to
end
Knit
every
row
Row
2
(RS):
Knit
to
end
Repeat
above
for
10
(12,
14,
16,
18,
22)
rows
for
a
shrug
or
short
cardigan.
For
a
longer
cardigan,
repeat
above
until
work
measures
approximately
9
(10.5,
11,
11.5,
12,
13)
inches
/
23
(26.5,
28,
29,
30.5,
33)
cm
from
cast
on
edge.
Alternatively,
measure
the
baby
or
child
you
are
knitting
the
garment
for
and
knit
to
any
length
you
desire!
End
approximately
1.5
inches
/
4
cm
short
of
desired
length
in
order
to
knit
the
garment
edge.
End
after
completing
a
WS
row.
Garment Edge
Switch
back
to
MC
or
CC
if
desired.
Using
a
longer
circular
needle,
knit
across
the
remaining
front
&
back
stitches,
transferring
work
onto
longer
needle.
Starting
with
the
right
side
of
the
sweater
as
worn
(RS
of
work
will
be
facing
you)
PU
3
out
of
4
stitches
along
left
and
right
edges,
and
every
stitch
along
neckline.
Place
marker
for
the
beginning
of
the
round.
Be
sure
to
end
with
an
even
number
of
stitches
on
the
needles.
Choose
from
two
garment
edge
options:
1
X
1
Rib
Stitch
In
The
Round
or
Picot
Bind
Off.
1
X
1
Rib
Stitch
In
The
Round
Round
1:
*K1,
P1
repeat
from
*
to
end
Work
1
X
1
Rib
Stitch
In
The
Round
for
a
total
of
4
(4,
4,
6,
6,
6)
rounds.
BO
loosely
in
pattern.
For
the
Picot
Bind
Off,
knit
one
round
in
MC
or
CC,
then
work
as
follows
below:
Picot
Bind
Off
*CO
2
stitches
to
LH
needle
using
cable
CO
or
your
desired
method.
BO
4
stitches.
Slip
the
stitch
on
the
RH
needle
back
onto
the
LH
needle.
Repeat
from
*
to
end.
If
larger
picot
points
are
desired,
CO
more
than
2
stitches
to
LH
needle.
Remember
to
always
BO
twice
as
many
stitches
as
are
CO
for
each
point.
Work
Picot
Bind
Off
to
end.
Sleeves
There
are
three
sleeve
options:
short,
elbow,
and
full
length
sleeves.
First,
remove
waste
yarn
and
place
34
(36,
38,
40,
42,
48)
stitches
onto
US
size
7
DPN
or
12”
circulars.
Stitches
will
be
picked
up
under
the
arm,
and
you
will
then
knit
in
the
round.
Join
yarn
and
PU
1,
PM,
PU
1
for
all
sizes.
Total
stitches
for
each
sleeve
should
be
36
(38,
40,
42,
44,
50).
The
marker
serves
as
the
beginning
of
the
round.
Knit
one
round.
Proceed
to
the
desired
sleeve
option
(short,
elbow,
or
full
length)
below.
Short Sleeves
Knit
4
(4,
5,
5,
6,
6)
rounds.
Proceed
on
to
sleeve
cuff.