120 gros point I habit II

=====~==.
teeth on the cylinders and flats I under-coat fIbres.
of carding machines. I • 1ace
• gwpure
• gros point I a needlepoint lace.made with a
also known as point 'de venise I heavy buttonhole stitch and
and venetian lace', very expen- with the pattern on a coarse
sive heavy lace from Venice, mesh or held together with con-
the most fashionable material I necting threads.
for cravats among aristocrats I • gum waste
and royalty in the 17th century.
The lace was usually held to- I waste comprising all broken
gether with a ribbon or cra- silk threads that have been dis-
vat string, or sewn into a pre- carded during reeling, or at the
formed bow and fall because I inspection of the skeins, and
it was too heavy to be tied ac- I that have not undergone any
curately. further processing.

• grosgrain • gum-sericin
a fIrm, tightly woven fabric with a gelatinous protein, usually
I ..
a heavy; pronounced, crosswise compnsmg 20% to 30% by
rib. Used for neckties , millinery;, I mass of raw silk, cementing the
trim. The term often describes two fIbroin fIlaments (brins) in
ribbon but may be a full width a silk fIbre (bave).
fabric as well. • gunny
• guanaco a strong, coarse, plain weave
indigenous to Southern Argen- I fabric usually of jute. Used for
tina. Produced fleece of the baling and sacks.
most glorious natural honey • habit
beige colour. in the 17th century it meant for
• guard hairs men the suit of clothes all in the
fibres which project beyond the I same cloth or colour. The court
under-coat of some mammals. I habit in the 17th and 18th cen-
They are usually coarser than turies meant men's clothes, and

11=======Textile
II habutai I hairy 121
*===============
the grand habit women's, worn ~ this definition implies a distinc-
only at court and at festivities ; tion between sheep's wool and
where the court was present. : the covering of other animals,
~ notwithstanding the similarity in
• habutai I their fibre characteristics. Thus

very light weight and soft, a ~ the crimped form and the scaly
little heavier than china silk, but : surface are not confined to
similar. Sold by weight measure ~ sheep's wool. It seems desirable
known 'momme' (1 momme = ; in the textile industry, however,
3.75 g). Made from waste silk : to avoid ambiguity by confining
that can be twisted. It is piece ~ the term wool to the covering or
dyed or printed and sized. Has ~ sheep and to have available a
many defects in the cloth, which ; general term for other fibres of
has a 'shot-about' appearance, : animal origin. Normally the less
but this does not affect the cloth. ~ widely used fibres are known by
Comes from Japan, originally; name e.g., alpaca, mohair, etc,
woven in the gum on Japanese : but collectively they should be
hand looms. Lighter than ~ classed as hair. A difficulty arises
shantung but heavier than silk. ~ when it is desired to distinguish
For example are dresses, coats, ; between the fibres of the under-
shirting, lampshades, lingerie, : coat and the remainder of the
and curtains. ~ fleece, for instance, between the
h kr ; soft short camel hair used for
• ac mg : blankets and the coarse long
a process in which stricks of ~ camel hair used for belting. The
scutched flax are combed from ~ term wool is sometimes used for
end to end, both to remove ; the shorter fibre, qualified by the
short fibre, naps (or neps), and .. name 0 f the arum . al,e.g., cash -
non-fibrous material, and to I I
: mere woo.
sub-divide and parallelise the
fibre strands. I
: . h'atry
• hair ~ refers to fabrics with a lot of
; protruding fibres on the sur-
animal fibre other than sheep's
wool or silk. It is recognised that
~ face.
I
Textile=======1
122 hid/cardiglln I hllrness II
========*
• half cardigan · .hank
a variation of a IxI rib stitch ~ I. a synonym for skein. Textile
with knitting & tucking in al- ; linear material in coiled form,
ternate courses on one set of : 2. a definite length of sliver,
needles. The construction on • slubbing, roving, or yarn, e.g.,
the back is the reverse of the • in the metric system it is 1000
face. • metres,
• hammered satin 3. a synonym for count as ap-
a satin fabric with an all over plied to sliver, slubbing, or rov...
surface texture that looks like • ing.
hammered metal. • • hank sizing
• hand I the application of size solution

the way the fabric feels when it • to yarn in hanks.

is touched. Terms like softness, ~ • hard
crispness, dryness, and silkiness describing fabrics with a firm,
are all terms that describe the ~ coarse hand.
hand of the fabric. • d.
: • har erung
• handkerchief linen •
treatment of man-made re-
a fme lightweight plain weave. generated-protein filaments
fabric of linen or a linen blend. so as to render them com-
Used in blouses, dresses pletelY insoluble in cold water
• handle • and cold dilute saline solu-
the quality of a fabric or yarn • tions.
assessed by the reaction ob- • • harlequin
tained from the sense of ~ a design motif dominated by
touch. It is concerned with the : diamond shapes or checks in 3
subjective judgement of ~ or more contrasting colours as
roughness, smoothness,; in a harlequin costume.
harshness, pliability, thick-
I • harness
ness, etc.
• an assemblage of heddles

11========1baile
 IlhtJrness.frtune I heattmnsforprinted . . =========1=2=3
mounted on a harness frame ~ which an extruded yarn passes
that moves them all together. ; after leaving the spinneret, and
A separate harness is used for : whose surface speed determines
each group of warp ends that ~ the spin-stretch ratio.
must be moved independently I
: - haute couture
to weave a desired pattern.
~ high-fashion garments (of
- harness frame I which only a single price is pro-
a wooden or metal frame upon ~ duced) it's extravagant, it's ir-
which is suspended a series of : rational, it's unique and it's to-
cords or wires called heddles, ~ tally unaffordable.
each of which has a small eye ~ _ head Gute)
through which a warp end is
passed according to a prede- lone of a number of bunches of
termined design. Each har- ; raw jute forming a bale. The
ness frame is fastened to a : heads are each given a twist and
mechanism that raises and ~ folded over before being made
I into the bale.
Iowers it in proper sequence .
to form the sheds through ; _ heat setting
w~ich the shuttle carries the ~ the process of conferring stabil-
filling yarn to produce cloth of
: ity of form upon fibres yarns
a specI°fiIed pattern. :I or fabrics, usually by means
'
of,
- Harris tweed ~ successive heating and cooling
a woollen tweed fabric hand ; in moist or dry conditions.
woven on the outer Hebrides ; _ heat transfer printed
~ a method of printing fabric by
islands off the coast of Scotland.
(Harris is one of these islands).
: transferring a design from a
It is genuine Harris tweeds are ~ paper to fabric by passing them
certified by the Harris Tweed ; together through heated rollers
association. : or a heated press. Also called
- haul-off roller ~ sublistatic printing or sublima-
the first driven roller around ~ tion printing.

° ThmIe======11
124 heather I herringbone II
========~.
• heather I may be several inches long,
a yarn that is spun using pre- I while fibres used for domes-
dyed fibres. These fibres are tic textiles are about 3/4 inch
blended together to give a par- to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.54 cm)
ticular look. (For example, I long. The elongation (1 to 6
black and white may be blended. percent) is low and its elastic-
together to create a grey ity poor. The thermal reac-
heather yarn.). The term, • tions of hemp and the effect
heather, may also be used to • of sunlight are the same as for
describe the fabric made from cotton. Hemp is moth resis-
heather yarns. tant, but it is not impervious
• heddle I to mildew. Coarse hemp fi-
• bres and yarns are woven into
a fibre or metal strand, pierced cordage, rope, sacking and
with a hole (eye) , through which • heavy-duty tarpaulins. In
the warp end it controls is • Italy, fine hemp fibres are
threaded. used for interior design and
• hemp apparel fabrics.
1. a coarse, durable baste fibre • henequen
obtained from the inner bark of ~ the fibre obtained from the leaf
the hemp plant. Used primarily • of agava fourcroydes lemaire,
in twines and cordages, and which is native to Mexico. It is
most recently apparel. produced by mechanically deco-
2. hemp is a baste fibre that • rticating the leaves into strands
was probably used first in • from 4 to 5 feet.
Asia. The fibre is dark tan or • • herringbone
brown and is difficult to
a variation on the twill weave
bleach, but it can be dyed •
construction in which the twill
bright and dark colours. The I
is reversed, or broken, at regu-
hemp fibres vary widely in
I lar intervals, producing a zigzag
length, depending upon their
effect.
ultimate use. Industrial fibres •

II = = = = = = = = T e x t i l e
II higl1chargedsystem I hologfoam 125
*================
• high charged system ~ or more different widths.
a method of dry cleaning in ~ • high-bulk yarn
which an oil-soluble reagent ~ a yarn that has been treated
such as petroleum sulphonate ; mechanically, physically or
is added to the solvent so that : chemically so as to have a no-
a Significdadntdamount .of water ~ ticeably greater voluminosity
can be a e to obtam a sub-; bulk
stantially clear dispersion of : or .
water in the solvent. In a high- ~ • hi~h-~peed spinning (melt
charged system the concentra-; spmnmg) •
tion of added reagent, a so- : a melt spinning process in which
I
called detergent is 4% while, : ftlaments are drawn down abd
in a low-charged system the ~ collected at high speeds.
concentration ranges from I • hog wool
%% to 2%.
I the first clip from a sheep not
• high count ~ shorn as a lamb, also termed tag
refers to fabrics woven with a : wool.
relatively high thread count, I
: • Holland shade cloth
resulting in a dense, tight fab-
nco ~ a plain weave fabric similar to
~ sheeting with a stiff sometimes
• high twist ; glazed finish. Often of linen or
refers to yarn that are manufac- : cotton.
tured with a relatively high I
: • hollow filament
number of turns per inch. This I
may be done to increase the : a man-made fibre continuous
yarn strength or to give the fab- ~ ftlament or fibre with a single
ric a crepe texture or hand. ; continuous lumen.

• high/low ; • hologram
1. pile fabrics that have varia- ; a three dimensional effect pro-
tion in pile height : duced with a laser that changes
2. a corduroy with Wales of 2 ~ with the angle of view and re-

Textile======== II
126 humespun I hopstu:king II
========*
flects light in a striking way . I silk, similar to 'pongee' but
Often printed on reflective ma- I finer, made from wild silk-
terial. worms raised in the Honan
• homespun area of China. The only wild
I type that gives even dyeing
coarse, rugged yarn is used. results.
Originally an undyed woollen
cloth spun into yarn and wo- I • honeycomb
ven in the home, by peasants a pique fabric with a waIDe or
and country folk the world cellular appearance. May be
over. Has substantial appear- I woven or knit.
ance and serviceable qualities. I • honeydew
Made with irregular, slightly
twisted uneven yarns. Has a I theresultofinfestationofgrow-
spongy feel with a hand- I ing cotton by aphids of white-
loomed tweedy appearance. fly. It takes the form of more
Genuine homespun is pro- or less randomly distributed
duced in a very limited quan- I droplets of highly concentrated
tity and much power loom I sugars, causing cotton sticki-
cloth is sold as genuine home- ness.
spun. Many qualities made the • hoop cutter
best is an ideal rough -and - I
ready type of cloth. a hand tool, resembling a
I large pair of pliers, which is
• homopolymer I used to cut the metal ties of
a polymer in which the repeat- cotton bales.
ing units are all the same (cf. • hopsacking
copolymer) .
wool, worsted, cotton, linen,
• Honan rayon, silk, hem, jute. In wool
a high quality, plain weave I and worsted 2 x 2 basket usu-
pongee fabric made with wild I ally or novelty basket to re-
silk from Henan in Eastern semble hopsack cloth. Made
China. The best grade of wild I with coarse yarn. Has a rather

11======1i:m1e
II hose(narrowfobric) I hottenrt1thnumb;=========1=2=7
rough texture and quite du- I

rable.
- hose (narrow fabric)
a tubular woven fabric for con- I
veying liquid under pressure.
Hose is manufactured in both
unlined and lined forms. I
When unlined, the weave is
plain and the material is gen-
erally flax or hemp with a I
weaving density so arranged ; - hosiery knitting machine
that when the fibres swell on ~ a knitting machine for the pro-
wetting, the fabric becomes : duction of hosiery. Most are
tight enough to reduce perco- ~ small-diameter latch-needle cir-
lation under pressure to a neg- ; cular knitting machines.
ligible amount. For lined
hose, fibres other than flax or ; - hot drawing (synthetic
filaments and films)
hemp may be used in a 'plain I
or twill weave. Lightweight: a term applied to the drawing
hose woven from synthetic ~ of synthetic ftlaments or fIlms
yams may incorporate an in- ; with the intentional application
dependent tubular plastic lin- ~ of external heat.
ing, which is introduced. : _ hottenroth number
I
- hosiery : a measure of the degree of rip-
1. knitted coverings for the feet ~ ening of viscose a hottenroth
and legs, I number is expressed as the

2. formerly in the UK, the :I number of millilitres of 10%

term was used in the generic : ammonium chloride solution
sense of all types of knitted ~ that it is necessary to add to a
fabrics and, goods made up ; somewhat diluted viscose (so-
there from. : lution) to induce incipient co-
~ agulation under standard con-
I ditions.

T~le========11
128 hounds tooth check I Uudryun "
========*
• hounds tooth check ~ effect in certain areas .
a variation on the twill weave ~ • hue
construction in which a broken ; that attribute of colour whereby
check effect is produced by a : it is recognized as being pre-
· I
variation in the pattern 0 f mter- : dominantly red, green, blue,
lacing yarns, utilising at least ~ yellow, violet, brown, Bor-
two different coloured yarns. ; deaux, etc .
• hounds tooth
; • humidifier
a pointed broken check design.
; a device that vaporizes water
Most commonly a woven pro-
: and sprays it into the atmo-
duced with contrasting yarns in
~ sphere in order to increase the
groups or multiples of 4, wo-
I amount of moisture in the air.
ven in 2x2 twill.
I •husks (silk)
• huckaback ~ silk waste remaining on cocoons
1. a soft towelling fabric with : at the bottom of the basin after
short, loosely twisted filling ~ reeling.
floats to aid absorption, and a I dr hili" fib
.. -C.
birds eye or honeycomb SWlace • • hy
; op c res .
texture. It is sometimes em - : fibres that absorb water easily,
broidered. ~ take longer to dry, and require
2. it is strong, rough in the sur- ; more ironing.
face fmish but fmer, shinie~ ~an ~ • hygral expansion
cotton huckaback, has VarIatiOn : the reversible changes in length
in weaves but most have small ~ and width of fabrics containing
squares on the surface that I hygroscopic fibres as a result
stand out from the background,: h . gam
'
comes in white, colours, or :Icangesmre .
coloured borders and also I • iaedryun
stripes. The motif is made from : a short jacket, often richly em-
a series of floats, some of them broidered, worn mostly in
rather long, which·gives a loose I Kutch and Saurashtra, in coni-

~=======7Qaile
II iIu# I iruligo & werprinted 129
*~~~~~~~==

bination with an embroidered ~ disease or through plant senil-

pyjama. ; ity, or occasionally because of
: the genetic nature of the vari-
-ikat
~ ety, the secondary-wall thicken-
term ap~lied t? the r~sist-dye ~ ing may first be delayed and
process m whIch desIgns are . then proceed at a reduced rate
reserv.ed in warp or weft yarns ~ or wall development may cease
by tym~ off small bun~les of ~ prematurely: the ripened boil
y'ar~ with p~lm-Ieaf stnps or ; will contain a high proportion
similar matenal to prevent pen- : of developed immature fibres
etration of dye from the Indo- t
nesian Mengikat, 'to tie' or 'to :t - indiennes
bind'. : in the 17th and 18th centuries
~. the name given to all eastern
- illusion
~ painted and printed cloths,
a very fme sheer net fabric usu- ; whatever their country of ori-
ally of nylon or silk. Very fme, : gin.
all-silk tulle, which originated in t
France. It has a cobweb appear- :t - indigo
ance. For example veiling, par- : a type of blue dyestuff originally
ticularly for weddings, and trim- ~ obtained from the indigo plant
mmgs. ; but now produced synthetically,
: used for denim.
- imberline t

a woven fabric with various t - indigo & colour

:
coloured stripes in the warp of- : refers to yarn dyed fabrics us-
a
ten separated by gold thread. ~ ing combinations of indigo
used in upholstery, drapery. ; dyed yarns and yarns of other
~ colours together in the design.
- immature cotton
cotton in which the thickening ~ - indigo & overprinted
of the fibre wall is appreciably : refers to printing done on an
less than usual, note. If growth ~ indigo denim, indigo chambray,
conditions are not favourable, ~ or indigo dyed fabric.
possibly as a result of attack by

ThmI#======11
130
~~~~~~~=.
• indigo dyed ~ woolsey in the 18th and early
refers to a fabric which has been i 19th centuries.
piece dyed with indigo dye. i • inspecting machine
• indirect warping i a machine which draws cloth
the transference of yam from a ~ ~ver a wide surface for. inspec-
package creel onto a swift from : ~on purposes and which par-
which it is subsequently wound ~ ~ally cleans the cloth by brush-
onto a beam. ; mg.
• ingrain (filament yarn) ~ • inspecting table
descriptive of a ftlament yarn ; an inclined. table ov~r which
composed of ftlaments of differ- : cloth to be mspected IS drawn
ent colours, the ingrain effect ~ by hand.
I • intarsia

I 1. weft-knitted plain, rib, or

; purl fabrics containing designs
: in two or more colours. Each
~ area of colour is knitted from a
I separate yam, which is con-
: tained entirely within that area,
~ 2. a motif design in stitch and/
I or colour

~ • interfacing
I fabrics used to support, rein-
; force and give shape to fashion
being produced by the random : fabrics in sewn products. Often
exposure of the differently ~ placed between the lining and
coloured fllaments at the yarn ; the outer fabric, it can be made
surface. : from yarns or directly from fi-
~ bres, and may be either woven,
• inkle, beggar's
~ non woven, or knitted. Some
a fabric constrUcted as linsey-

11======7Qaile
II inm'liningl irUiescmt 131
*~~==========~
interfacings are designed to be ~ knit constructions.
fused (adhered with heat from
~ - intermingled yarn
an iron), while others are
meant to be stitched to the fash- ~ a multifilament yarn in which
ion fabric. ; cohesion is imparted to the
: filament bundle by entwining
- interlining ~ the filaments instead of, or in
1. an insulation, padding, or I addition to, twisting. The ef-
stiffening fabric, either sewn ~ fect is usually achieved by
to the wrong side of the lin- : passing under light tension
ing or the inner side of the ~ through the turbulent wne of
outer shell fabric. The inter- ; an air-jet. Some manufactur-
lining is used primarily to pro- : ers describe such a product as
vide warmth in coats, jackets, ~ an interlaced yarn. Intermin-
and outerwear. ~ gling should be distinguished
2. anyone of a wide variety of ; from air texturing in which a
fabrics used between the in- : much higher level of entangle-
ner and outer layers of a gar- ~ ment is achieved with the ob-
ment to improve shape reten- ~ jective of producing texture or
tion, strength, warmth or ; bulk.
bulk. Interlining may be of : _ intermingling jet
woven, knitted, or non woven ~ . d d· d
material and may be produced ; an arr-~erate eVlce use as
with or without a fusible ad- : ar;
anc ary to. somel~oc~ses
hesive coating. ~ 0 yam extrusIOn, 0 rawmg
; and texturing to induce inter-
- interlock : mingling.
I
the stitch variation of the rib : - iridescent
stitch, which resembles two I
: a fabric with a changeable colour
separate 1 x 1 ribbed fabrics ~ effect depending on the angle
that are interknitted. Plain ; of view and lighting. It is usu-
(double knit) interlock stitch : ally the result of weaving with
fabrics are thicker, heavier, ~ one colour in the warp and an-
and more stable than single I other in the weft.

'J.b:rik======== II
132 Irish laee I jRelbout II
~~~===========*
• Irish lace some of them rather long,
refers to any lace made in Ire- I which gives a loose effect in cer-
land. Most often they are cro- tain areas.
chet or needlepoint laces. • izarband
• Irish lawn drawstring at the waist for a
a lawn fabric produced from garment like the pyjama.
fme linen yarns. • jabot
• Irish linen I originally the term meant the
a woven fabric produced in Ire- I neck opening of the chemise,
land from 100% flax yam. and its lace trimmings, show-
ing through the opening at the
• Irish poplin I doublet. Early cravat of lace,
a poplin made from a dyed pure often ready-made, were worn
silk organise warp and a three- during the 17th century. The
fold genapped fine worsted I lace fell in a soft bunch to the
weft. It is a silk-face and -back I upper chest and was either
fabric, the weft being com- knotted and draped or tied in a
pletely covered by the warp. soft bow.
The fabric is usually hand-wo- I
• jackboot
ven and is frequently given a
moire fmish. over-knee high riding boot with
I square toes and low heel, made
• ixtle from stiff leather.
it is strong, rough in the surface
finish but fmer, shinier than cot- I
ton huckaback. Has variation in I
weaves but most have small
squares on the surface that
stand out from the background. I
Comes in white, colours, or
coloured borders. The motif is .'
made from a series of floats, I

11======7ixriJe
II jtu:lJU4rd Ijaspe 133
*===============
• jacquard ~ • jama
woven fabrics manufactured by .I full-sleeved outerwear for men,
using the jacquard attachment ; greatly popular at the Mughal
on the loom. This attachment : and Rajput courts and worn
provides versatility in designs .~ well into the 19th century.
.
and permits individual control I • d .
: • Jam am
of each of the warp yarns. Thus,
fabrics of almost any type or ~ fme cotton muslin with a floral
complexity can be made. Bro- I pattern brocaded in thick soft
cade and damask are types of ~ cotton. Dacca was a famous
jacquard woven fabrics. : centre for the production of fme
. d kni I jamdani work.
• Jacquar t :
~ • janghia
a weft double knit fabric in
which a jacquard type of mecha- ~ short drawers, worn by men

nism is used. This device indi- ; and boys.

vidually controls needles or ~ • jaquard mechanism (weav-
small groups of needles, and ing)
allows very complex and highly I
: a shedding mechanism, at-
patterned knits to be created. ~ tached to a loom, that gives in-
• jacquard-card lacer ; dividual control of up to several
a machine which laces together : hundred warp threads and thus
in a pattern chain the perfo- ~ enables large figured designs to
I be produced. (named after the
rated cards that control the op-
eration of a jacquard loom in ~ inventor, Joseph Marie J ac-
weaving designs and patterns in : quard, 1752-1834).
I
cloth. : • jaspe
I
• jaffer : a woven fabric with a series of
a plain-weave cotton fabric ~ faint stripes formed by the ar-
with warp and weft in differ- ; rangement of light, medium,
ent colours producing a shot :I and
.
dark warp yarns or by twist-
effect. : mg together 2 yarns of differ-

II
134
~~~~~~~~=.
ent colours. Used for drapery, ~ printed designs. Can look very
upholstery, suiting, etc. i much like woven fabric wear
• jean ~ very well and if washable, it
: washes very well.
a 2/1 warp-faced twill fabric I
used chiefly for overalls or ca- • jersey fabric
sual wear. Typical cotton par- the consistent inter looping of
ticular 18's x 28's (32 x 21 tex), I yarns in the jersey stitch to pro-
90 x 60 (35 ends/cm x 24 picks/ duces a fabric with a smooth,
cm). flat face, and a more textured,
I but uniform back. Jersey fabrics
• jerkin I may be produced on either cir-
outer doublet worn in England cular or flat weft knitting ma-
in the late 16th and early 17th I chines.
centuries. It was sleeveless or
with loose sleeves. • jersey stitch
I a basic stitch used in weft knit-
• jersey
I ring, in which each loop formed
1. single knit fabric with an in the knit is identical. The jer-
intermeshing of stitches in the I sey stitch is also called the plain,
same direction on the face and I felt, or stockinet stitch.
a series of semicircular loops on
the back. I • jet craters

2. a general term referring to I annular deposits that some-

any knit fabric without a distinct I times form around the holes on
rib. the face of jets used in the ex-
3. right side has lengthwise ribs I trusion of viscose.
and wrong side has crosswise I • jet rings
ribs, very elastic with good drap- I annular deposits formed occa-
ing qualities, has special crease- I sionally inside the holes of metal
resistant qualities due to its con- : jets or spinnerets when used in
struction, is knitted plain or has ~ the extrusion of viscose, particu-
many elaborate tweed designs ~ larly into coagulants containing
and fancy motifs as well as ; much zinc sulphate.

11======7e:mle
 135
*==~~~~~~~
-jet spinning ~ -jhumb
a system of staple-fibre spin- ~ a covering for the head and
ning which utilises air to ap- ; body made simply by tying
ply the twisting couple to the : sheet or blanket at one end all...
I
yarn during its formation. The : draped over the head.
air is blown through small I • I

holes arranged tangentially to : - Jupe

the yarn surface and this ~ from the Arabic 'djuba', jacket.
causes the yarn to rotate. The ; Jupe had two meanings from
majority of systems using this ~ the Middle Ages on towards the
technique produce fascinated : mid 17th century, jacket and
yarns, but by using two air jets ~ skirt. Only in 1672 did the dic-
operating in opposing twist ; tionaries de l'academie francaise
directions it is possible to pro- : defme the term Jupe, 'part of
duce yarns with more con- ~ women's costume, from the
trolled properties but of more I waist to the feet.' The term had
complex structure. ~ disappeared by then from men's
: costume, except for the panels
- jet-dyeing machine ~ of certain garments. From the
1. a machine for dyeing fabric ; 1670s on Jupe corresponds with
in rope form in which the fab- : the modern meaning. In the
I
ric is carried through a narrow : 17th century women wore 3
throat by dye-liquor circulated I jupes one on top of the other
at a high velocity, ~ the modeste, a top skirt that
2. a machine for dyeing gar- : often trailed, the friponne in the
ments in which the garments ~ middle, which covered the
are circulated by jets of liquid ; secrete, the underskirt. The lat-
rather by mechanical means. : ter two reached the ground.
I

-jhabba :I - justaucorps
loose, tunic-like garment. : male coat developed in the sec-
~ ond half of the 17th century.
- jhula I Tight fitting in the shoulders,
a kind of blouse for children. ; collarless and with flaring skirts

7i:Jaik======== II
136 jute liuJin buri II
=---------*
and knee-length. Th~ flare was I brown or grey colour, with a
extended and made wider until I silky lustre. It consists of
the early 18th century. Later the bundles of fibre held together
coat became narrow, cut away by gummy substances that are
in the front and sides, with a ~ pertinacious in character. It is
standing collar. (Second half of ; difficult to bleach completely,
18th century). so many fabrics are bright,
I dark, or natural brown in
• jute
I colour. Jute reacts to chemi-
1. a baste fibre, chiefly from cals in the same way as do cot-
India, used primarily for gunny I ton and flax. It has a good re-
sacks, bags, cordage, and bind- I sistance to microorganisms
ing threads in carpets and rugs. and insects. Moisture in-
2. the fibre obtained from the creases the speed of deterio-
baste layer of the plants I ration but dry jute will last for
corchorus capsularis and I a very long time. Jute works
corchorus olitorius. Commer- well for bagging, because it
cially, jute is divided into two does not extend and is some-
main classes, white jute gener- I what rough and coarse. This
ally being associated with tends to keep stacks of bags
corchorus capsularis, and dark in position and resist slippage.
jute with corchorus olitorius. I It is widely used in the manu-
Each of the above-noted classes I facture of linoleum and car-
is further sub-divided into nu- pets for backing or base fab-
merous grades denoting qual- nc.
ity and other characteristics.
• jute-spun
• jute and burlap
descriptive of staple yarn that
jute is used in textiles for in- I has been prepared and spun on
teriors, especially for wall I machinery originally designed
hangings and a group of : for spinning yarns from jute.
bright, homespun-effect .drap- .~ • k"" b ti"
aIrl u
eries and wall covenngs. I . . . .
Natural jute has a yellow to : a floral motif m Indian textile
I

11========Temte
IlluUiWatttm I ~rchobi work 137
*================
design, based on the form of a ~ parts from excessive heat and
green mango with a light curve ; cold.
at the tip. ; .kapadu
• kalabatton ; cloth used to cover the breasts.
silver-gilt thread, used in em- : In Rajasthan and Gujarat a
broidery. ~ simple choli-blouse is some-
~ times referred to by this name.
• kalgha
a popular motif in Indian tex- ~ • kapok
tile design, broadly cypress- I 1. a short, lightweight, cotton-
shaped and curving to one sides :I like, vegetable fibre found in
at the top, crest. : the seed pods of the
I bombocaceae tree. Because of
.kali
; its brittle quality, it is generally
gore wedge-shaped, triangular : not spun. However, its buoy-
piece of cloth. ~ ancy and moisture resistance
• kalidar ghagra I makes it ideal for use in cush-
ghaghra made up of many ~ ions, mattresses, and life jack-
gored pieces and thus flared in : ets.
early Sanskrit literature. ~ 2. a unicellular seed hair ob-
I tained from the fruit pods of the
• kanjari ~ kapok tree eriodendron
blouse like garment, worn a : anfractuosum ( formerly
little long in front and generally ~ known as ceiba pentranda). The
backless, held together with tie- ; fibre is also called ceba, ceiba,
cords, with no shaped parts like : java cotton silk cotton, silk floss
cups. ~ etc. Indian kapok comes from
I bombax malabaricUffi.
• kantop
literally, 'topi, worn around I • karchobi work
the ears'. This kind of cap; worksimilarto'zardozi'inwhich
covers the ears and the back ~ gold or silver metal threads are
of the neck to protect these : sewn on to satin or velvet with

7 1 t x r i 1 e = = = = = = II
138 kRmis I knit II
=~~~~~~=.
metallic threads to yield the ef- ~ erally of wool or a wool blend
feet of true embroidery. ; with a fme lustrous nap, used
• kasnis :I for overcoats.
: 2. medium to heavy weight,
tie-cords or strings used for
~ similar to Melton and Beaver.
tightening.
; Well fulled in the fmishing with
• katoris ~ a rather lustrous nap caused by
cups, the word is used to de- : the use of lustrous crossbred
scribe breast-cups as in a choli ~ wools, gives good wear and is
or angIa. ; dressy looking. Blue, brown
: and black are the most popular
• kemp ~ colours.
a coarse animal fibre with a wide
~ • kimkhab
lattice-type medulla that is shed
from the skin at least once a ~ silk fabric brocaded with silver
year, it is often shorter than ; and gold. The metal thread used
other fibres of the fleece , has a :I for brocading is made from a
long tapering tip, and, when : fme strand of flattened metal
completely shed, tapers sharply ~ wound over a core of silk, us-
towards the root end. ; ing yellow silk under gold, and
: white silk under silver.
• kenaf I

the fibre obtained from the ~ • kneeing

baste layer of the plant hibiscus : an unstable condition arising in
cannabinus. I melt-spinning wherein the

I. kenaf is commonly known as I extrudate forms an inflexion on

mesta in India, leaving the spinneret instead of
2. being similar to jute in many drawing down directly from the
of its properties, kenaf is used ~ orifice. The mo~ten filam~nt
either as an alternative to, or in I thus has a Ia:ee-like shape Just
admixture with, jute. : below the orifice .
• knit
• kersey
to form a fabric by the
1. a fulled, woven fabric, gen-

11========7Qmle
II bitfobrics I kurtR. 139
*================
intermeshing of loops of yarn. ~ knots in yarn at various stages
• knit fabrics I of manufacture.

fabrics made from only one ; • kodel

set of yarns, all running in the ; a brand of polyester, trademark
same direction. Some knits : of the Eastman chemical com-
I
have their yarns running : pany.
along the length of the fab- ~ • kontush
ric, while others have looping
the yarns around each other ~ generously cut caftan-shaped
holds their yarns running I mantle worn in Poland. The
across the width of the fab- ~ term passed to Germany and
ric, knit fabrics together. : the Nordic countries where it
Knitting creates ridges in the ~ referred to women's gowns,
resulting fabric. ; robes volantes or gowns a la
: francaise worn in the 18th cen-
• knit-de-knit I
: tury.
a type of yarn texturising in ~ • kurdi
which a crimped yarn is made
by knitting the yarn into a fab- ~ a jacket or coat meant for out-
ric, and then heat-setting the ; erwear. The garment popular
fabric. The yarn is then : under this name in Persia was
I .
unravelled from the fabric and : known m India as a nadiji.
I
used in this permanently : - kurta
crinkled form. ~ variously described in the dic-
• knitwear ~ tionaries as 'a tunic, waist coat,

a term applied in the generic ; jacket, shirt', the kurta became

sense to all knitted outer gar- : popular in the 18th and 19th
ments except stockings and ~ centuries essentially as a slightly
I loose-fitting garment for outer
socks.
: wear, often with a round neck
I '
• knotter : of knee-length or even longer,
an automatic device for tying ~ with side-slits at the hem and

Thmk=================================== II