BAHIA

BAHIA

Rigging Manual
1 Glossary

2 Sail Numbers

3 Rigging and Raising the Mast

4 Boom and Gnav

5 Sails

6 Lower Shroud Tensioning

7 Gennaker

8 Mainsail

9 Outhaul

10 Cunningham

11 Single Line Reefing

12 Single Line Reefing Instructions

13 Single Line Reefing Method

14 Rudder and Centerboard

15 Launching, Rowing, Engine Use

and Basic Safety on the Water

16 Engine, Bracket and Storage Box

(Optional extra)

17 Maintenance and Service

 2. Sail Numbers
Apply the sail numbers in a dry, clean and wind free environment
using the following guidance:
BAHIA Rigging Instructions
The Bahia rigging instructions are a guide to rigging your boat. LaserPerformance 1. Lay the sail on a fl at surface starboard side up.
reserves the right to make design and/or specification changes to any of their products 2. The numbers on the starboard side are always higher than the port side.
as part of their continuous development program.
3. Measure 200 mm down from the second batten pocket from the bottom of the sail.
4. Mark a line parallel to the batten pocket. Use tape.
Important information
5. Measure 100 mm in from the leach on this line.
There are three hatches and one transom drain bung on the Bahia. They all should be 6. The fi rst number is positioned 100 mm in from the leach and with the top of the
checked to ensure a correct and watertight fit, every time you sail. number on this tape line.
7. The numbers are 60 mm apart.
8. Turn over the sail and position the port numbers 60 mm below the starboard
1. Starboard side (right) on the foredeck
numbers and parallel to them.
recess forwards of the main beam.
(fi gure 1)

2. Center console area between the hoop.

Th is is a watertight compartment for
figure 1 figure 2
keys, mobile, wallet etc and is not part
of the buoyancy of the boat. (fi gure 2)

3. Aft cockpit. (fi gure 3)

4. Transom drain bung must also be

checked prior to launch. (figure 3)

Warning: Th e mast head fl otation device figure 3

(optional extra) is an aid to the buoyancy of
the masthead in the event of your sailing craft
capsizing. However, it may not stop the total
inversion of your craft and should not be relied
upon to do so. LaserPerformance cannot accept
any liability in such a case.

1. Glossary
Aft: Rearward Leach: Rear edge of the sail
Batten: A thin stiffening strip in the sail to support the leach Luff: Forward edge of the sail
Boom: Spar at the bottom of the mainsail Mast: Main vertical spar supporting the rig/sails
Bow: Front of the boat Mast Heel: Fitting on the bottom edge/foot of the mast
Burgee: Wind direction indicator (usually a small fl ag) Mast step: Fitting on the boat where the mast heel/foot of the
Cleat: A fitting used for holding/securing line mast is located
Clew: Back lower corner of a sail Outhaul: Purchase system for tightening the bottom edge/foot
Cunningham: Purchase system for tightening the forward of the sail
edge/luff of the sail Rudder: Blade and attachments used for steering the boat
Foot: Bottom edge of the sail Shrouds: Pieces of standing rigging which hold the mast up
Fore: Forward from side to side connecting at the top of the mast, with addi-
Forestay: The wire supporting the mast at the bow of the boat tional shrouds connecting partway down the mast. The shrouds
Gennaker: Isometric sail hoisted when sailing downwind then terminate at their bottom ends to the side of the boat.
Gennaker pole: The pole that extends from the bow to fly the Shrouds are attached symmetrically on both the port
gennaker sail and starboard sides.
Gnav: Purchase system for tightening the rear edge/leach of Spreaders: Metal struts placed in pairs to support the mast side
the sail ways and control the bend in the mast
Gudgeon: Fitting on the transom and rudder used to hang Stern: Back of the boat
the rudder Stem fitting: Stainless fitting at the bow to which the forestay
Gunwale: The outermost edge of the boat attaches
Halyard: A rope or wire used to lower or hoist sails Tack: Forward lower corner of sail
Head: Top corner of sail Vang: Otherwise known as the kicking strap, Gnav
Jib: Front sail
3. Rigging and raising
the mast
1. Unpack the mast from its packaging.

2. Ensure all the halyards are led to the base

of the mast and each halyard rope end has a
knot tied in it. (fi gure 4)
figure 4 figure 5
3. Insert blanking plugs, (tight fit to produce Spreader Ends Security
seal) a medium size fl at blade screwdriver All clevis pins must be fitted with the flat
Remove the clevis pin and slide out the
maybe required to fit. (fi gure 5) head on top, and locked with a split ring.
spreader end hook. Slide the hook over the
shroud, and slide back into the spreader. Tape all split rings, pins and the outboard
4. If applicable, fit trapeze wires and plugs in end of the spreader extrusion. This will
Refit the clevis pin and split ring.
the top terminal positions on the mast. reduce chafe on the mainsail and prevent
(Note: Trapeze kit is an option) (fi gure 6) flailing sails/halyards becoming damaged.
Class Bracket Connection Pin Self-amalgamating tape is best, but PVC
5. Fit spreaders figure 6 electrical tape is an adequate alternative.
Primary Adjuster
Bahia Fwd 3B

6. Ensure that all the spreader pins and rings

are taped up or serious damage could occur to
the sails. (fi gure 7a) (fi gure 7b)

7. Mast head float (optional extra).

• Stick the self adhesive neoprene strip to the

1 top of the mast. Th is should be butted up to
5 2 A
the top casting but not on the top casting.
D
6 3 B (figure 8) figure 7a figure 7b
4 E
7 C • Place the mast head float onto the mast
Forward
head. The lacing eyes are on the front of the
mast head float and the front of the mast. Tie
Primary
the mast head float onto the mast using the
lacing eyes. (figure 9)

Warning: Th e mast head fl otation device (optional

extra) is an aid to the buoyancy of the masthead in the
event of your sailing craft capsizing. However, it may figure 8 figure 9
Attachment of Spreader.
not stop the total inversion of your craft and should not
Primary Pin: be relied upon to do so. LaserPerformance cannot accept
Fit down through the bracket’s Primary hole and the Forward spreader hole. any liability in such a case.

Adjuster Pin:
Note: This is a two person operation as someone will
Fit down through bracket adjuster hole 3, and through spreader adjuster hole B.
need to hold forestay - ensure that there are no overhead
power cables.

8. Place the mast heel into the mast step and figure 10
put the pin through the mast heel and fit the
ring into the clevis pin (fi gure 10)

9. Attach the shrouds to the shroud anchor

point with the adjuster pin position in the 4th
hole down on the back of the vernier adjuster.
No. 7 engraved on the adjuster. (fi gure 11)
figure 11
10. Raise the mast with one person standing 4. Boom and Gnav
in the boat and one person pulling up the
mast with the forestay. (fi gure 12) 1. Unpack the boom and Gnav tackle.
(fi gure 18)
Note: Always stand in the boat forward of the trolley
wheels to stop the boat tipping up. 2. Attach the boom to the mast using the drop
nose pin. (Articulating toggle at the bottom)
11. Temporarily attach the forestay around the (fi gure 19)
jib tack bar (not the furling drum). (figure 13)
3. Tie the Gnav control line from the boom to figure 19
12. Shackle the lower shrouds to the shroud the double block and becket at the base of the
anchor points ensuring that a multiple thick- mast the boat. (fi gure 20)
ness line of approximately 125 mm in rigged
length is used between the shackle and the Tip: Best practice would be to use a bowline.
hard eye in the end of each lower shroud wire. 4. Attach the Gnav strut to the Gnav anchor
The shackle should be positioned forward of point using the drop nose pin. (Articulate
the stay adjuster. (fi gure 14) toggle at the bottom with joint orientation as
figure 12
shown.) (fi gure 21)
13. Loosely fasten the other end of the lower
shroud wires to the eye on the front face of the 5. Mainsheet – The mainsheet stops at the
mast using multiple thickness line. block on the top of the hoop with a stop knot
and then threaded as shown. (fi gure 22a)
Note: Lower shroud tension is adjusted using these line (figure 22b)
strops after the jib halyard has been tensioned.
(figure 15)

figure 18 figure 20
14. Attach the trapeze rings to hull mounted
shock cords by feeding the elastic loop
through the ring at the bottom of the pulley.
(fi gure 16)

Note: Trapeze kit is an option.

figure 13 figure 14

15. Place the loop of elastic shockcord over the

metal trapeze ring and pull tight. (fi gure 17)
figure 21

figure 15 figure 16

figure 22a figure 22b

figure 17
5. Sails 6. Lower shroud tensioning
1. Ensure furling drum line is fully wound After tensioning the jib halyard readjust the
completely onto furling drum before you lower shrouds so that they are just tight. It is
attach the jib. (fi gure 23) essential that the mast is straight before the
mainsail is hoisted (fore and aft and side to
2. Unroll the jib and attach jib tack to furling
side to side). Lower shroud tension should be
drum. Tape up pins on jib tack. (fi gure 24)
adjusted accordingly. (fi gure 33)
3. Attach the head of the jib to the jib halyard
furling swivel and tape up prior to hoisting. figure 23 figure 24
(fi gure 25)
7. Gennaker
1. Temporarily tie the gennaker halyard to
4. Hoist jib by pulling the white halyard out of
one of the lower shrouds. (Blue halyard
aft face of the mast then hook the jib halyard
exiting from ¾ height up mast, just above
purchase system onto jib halyard wire.
the jib halyard sheave box.)
(Ensure hook is facing aft.) (figure 26)
2. Ensure the end of the gennaker halyard
5. Tension the jib halyard purchase system
taken from the base of the mast is free of knots
until the jib luff wire is taught. Cleat and tidy
and tangles. (fi gure 34) figure 33
the rope end in the pocket on the underside of figure 25 figure 26
the gennaker sock. (If a loose gauge is used to 3. Feed the end of the gennaker halyard
measure the rig tension do NOT exceed 15 units through the turning block at the base of the
or 70 kgs - measured on the shroud 0.75 meters mast and feed forwards towards the bow.
above the vernier adjuster.) (figure 27) (fi gure 35)

6. Tidy the halyards in the halyard bag. 4. Locate the gennaker pole “out” rope under
(fi gure 28) the Gennaker sock at the bow. Th is is a blue
rope with a block on the end as shown.
7. Attach the center of the jib sheet to the jib
(fi gure 36) figure 34 figure 35
clew. (fi gure 29)
figure 28 figure 29
5. Pull out the pole to its full extension.
8. Th read the free ends of the jib sheet through
(fi gure 37)
the jib fairlead cleats on the inner deck.
(fi gure 30) 6. Feed the pole “out” rope and block back
down the shute towards the back of the boat.
Tip: A best practice would be to tie the sheet ends
(fi gure 38)
together to prevent fl ailing and inhibit sheets falling
overboard. (figure 31) Note: Th is must go under the gennaker sock and
ABOVE the pole webbing at the front of the shute.
9. Remove the forestay from the jib tack bar
and tie to the P clip at the bottom of the mast. 7. Fed the gennaker halyard through the pole figure 36 figure 37
figure 30 figure 31
(fi gure 32) “out” block under the sock. (fi gure 39)

10. Furl the jib by pulling the furling line.

The furling line cleat is positioned on the front
beam starboard hand side.

figure 38
figure 32

figure 39
8. Feed the gennaker halyard through the cleat 18. Ensure the boat is pointing directly into the wind
on the starboard side of the centerboard case and hoist the gennaker. Take great care to ensure
and then through the turning block (white that the gennaker does not get snagged around the
rope shown). (figure 40) trolley; a second person should help with this to
ensure it does not snag anywhere. Check to make
9. Feed the halyard end over the toestrap and
sure the gennaker is not twisted and the sheets are
through the retrieval block on the starboard side.
not tangled with the halyard. ALWAYS TAKE GREAT
(figure 41)
CARE TO PULL UP THE GENNAKER SLOWLY AND
10. The gennaker halyard then goes back figure 40 figure 41 DO NOT KEEP PULLING IF IT BECOMES TANGLED
up the shute to the bow. A batten or tiller OR TIGHT. (fi gure 50)
extension is useful to feed this up the shute.
19. Uncleat the halyard and gently pull the gennaker
(figure 42)
into the sock by pulling the halyard through the block figure 50
11. Unfold the gennaker: at the aft end of the sock. A second person should help
with this and be positioned at the front of the boat to
A. Identify the tack (written on the sail).
ensure the gennaker does not get snagged anywhere.
B. Secure to the gennaker pole tack line to
the sail using a bowline. (Th e tack line
comes out of the front of the gennaker figure 42 figure 43 8. Mainsail
pole.) 1. Remove the mainsail from the bag and unroll.
C. The plastic bobble should be between the 2. Ensure all battens are tight in their pockets and the
sail and the pole end. (figure 43) velcro locking mechanisms are positively engaged:
figure 51
12. Untie the gennaker halyard from the lower A. To release the tension from a batten, slide the
shroud and secure to the head of the gennaker batten prodder (supplied) carefully between the two
using a bowline. (fi gure 44) halves of the velcro locking mechanism and pull the
13. Take the end of the gennaker halyard retrieval line slowly (fi gure 51)
from the jib tack bar (you previously passed figure 44 figure 45
B. To adjust batten tension, place the tip of the
through the sock). Pass the downhaul end prodder into the location point at the end of the
of the gennaker halyard through the lower velcro strip then insert it between the batten and the
downhaul patch ring on the port side of the batten pocket’s inner side. (figure 52)
sail. (figure 45)
Push the prodder until the desired batten tension is
14. Secure to the upper downhaul patch using attained, then withdraw the prodder gently while figure 52
a bowline. (fi gure 46) pressing both sides of the batten pocket together to
15. Attach the center of the gennaker sheet to reengage the velcro locking mechanism.
the clew of the gennaker. (figure 47) 3. Position the boat so that it is head to wind – bow
figure 46 figure 47
16. Pass the free ends of the gennaker sheets into the wind.
aft (one sheet either side of the jib luff ) and 4. Place the mainsail in the cockpit of the hull with
through the gennaker sheet ratchet blocks the luff closest the bow (front) and the leach closest
attached to the anchor points. Th ere are the stern (back).
arrows on the ratchet block to indicate which
way the rope should pass. When under load, 5. Take the main halyard:
the ratchet will engage. (figure 48) A. Ensure there is no twists in the halyard and it is figure 53

Note: Th e sheets must pass outside of the shrouds and clear of the spreaders.
trapeze lines at all times. figure 48 figure 49
B. Form a loop in the end of the halyard; pass the
17. Tie the free ends of the gennaker sheet loop through the eye in the head of the mainsail.
together. (fi gure 49) (Pass loop from starboard/right to port/left side)

C. Pass the bobble through this loop and pull tight

to secure. (Ensure the bobble is positioned on port/
left side as shown – this ensures the bobble will not
get caught in the “V” between the Gnav bar and the
mast during hoisting.) (fi gure 53)
6. Place the head of the mainsail into the 11. Single Line Reefing
mast track. Th e Gnav bar must be on the star-
board side of the sail with sail and halyard to 1. Rig the single line reefi ng.
the port side of the Gnav bar. (figure 54) 2. Although single line reefi ng is only
7. Hoist the mainsail using the main halyard, applicable to the Bahia sail, you will fi nd a
which exits the mast on the lower port side. pocket at the forward end of the foot of the
mainsail (port side) to tidy the loose end
Note: Hoisting the mainsail is a two person operation. of the single line reefi ng system. (fi gure 63)
One person will be required to feed the mainsail in to the figure 55
figure 63 figure 64
mast track while another hoists using the halyard (Th is 3. Single line reefi ng tension is controlled
figure 54
will prevent the sail from pulling out of the track and using the white rope, cleat and fairlead at
jamming, which could cause luff rope damage.) the forward end of the boom. (figure 64)

8. When the mainsail is fully hoisted, coil the

halyard and store in the halyard bag on the 12. Single Line Reefing Instructions
underside of the gennaker sock. (figure 55)
AFT/REAR FORWARD
BOOM END BOOM END

9.Outhaul
1. Secure the velcro tack around the mast.
(fi gure 56)

2. Feed the plastic slug slide on the clew out-

haul to the cut out on the top of the boom. Outhaul Reefi ng Line
(fi gure 57) figure 56 figure 57 (port) Routing

3. The outhaul line (blue) is then passed

LINES EXIT BOOM ENDS
through the eye in the sail (from port/left FROM STARBOARD SHEAVES
to starboard/right side) and anchored on
Place
the starboard/right side with a simple knot forward
located in the slot formed in the boom end reefing line
end in the
casting. (figure 59a) (fi gure 59b)
port side
boom end
4. Outhaul tension is controlled using the notch.
Secure aft Reefing line
blue rope, cleat and fairlead at the forward figure 59a figure 59b reefing line
end of the boom. (fi gure 60) end around the
boom using a
bowline.
10. Cunningham
1. Pass the rope at the end of the
cunningham purchase system through the
13. Single Line Reefing Method
eye at the bottom of the mainsail luff (from 1. Ease sheet and Gnav
starboard/right hand to port/left hand side).
2. Pull the reefl ine. The boom will angle up until
2. Anchor the end of the cunningham all of the aft reefi ng line slack is taken in or Gnav
figure 60
purchase system by sliding a half hitch knot travel limit is reached.
into mast track just below the
3. Ease the halyard and continue pulling the ree-
gooseneck. (fi gure 61)
fl ine. The boom outer end will move down towards
3. Cunningham tension is controlled horizontal.
using the blue rope, the cleat and fairlead
4. When the reefl ine has fi nished pulling the clew
block is on the starboard side of the mast.
and tack down hard, cleat it off.
(fi gure 62)
5. Adjust halyard tension and adjust the Gnav and
sheet.

figure 61 figure 62
14. Rudder and Centerboard 15. Launching, rowing, & basic safety
The pin goes through form the top of the rudder
on the water
A. Rowing (Option)
stock and through both sets of gudgeons. Th is
The Bahia rowlocks have on an asymmetrical lower end that
must be secured with the split ring below the
engages with a keyway in the bottom of the rowlock socket. Th is
bottom gudgeon. (figure 65)
feature is designed to prevent rowlock disengagement and/or loss
The centerboard friction device can be used to ad- whilst rowing. When not in use the rowlock can be stored in the
just the tension on the side of the centerboard that center console hatch compartment. (fi gure 67)
holds the centerboard down whilst sailing. Th is is figure 67
placed through the two holes on the top of the cen- The storage box lid is turned upside down and is used as a seat
terboard case. To tighten, a pozi drive screwdriver is whilst rowing. The centerboard should be up whilst rowing.
used to tighten or loosen as required. Both sides are (figure 68)
figure 65
adjusted. To tighten, screw through all four holes
clockwise and opposite to loosen. (figure 66)

16. Engine, Bracket and Storage Box

(Optional extra) figure 68

The engine bracket is fitted by simply locating

the bracket’s pin into the bush in the Bahia
transom top. (fi gure 69) Th is is a push fit.

figure 66
It is then secured by the eye bolt through the
engine bracket into the insert in the back of
the boat. Th is will have a plastic thumb screw
Before you go sailing cover which will need to be unscrewed and kept
1. Check you are wearing suitable clothing and safety equipment for the conditions and time of year. in a safe place. (fi gure 70)
2. Always wear a buoyancy aid or life jacket
3. Make sure a third party knows where you are sailing and how many of you are sailing. Note: BE CAREFUL NOT TO CROSS THREAD THE EYE figure 69 figure 70
4. Check the weather forecast. BOLT INTO THE INSERT WHEN FITTING.
5. Check the time of high and low tides if applicable.
6. Seek advice on the local conditions if you are sailing in a new area.
7. Always check the condition of your craft before setting off. The engine should be secured to the eye bolt
8. Check for overhead cables when rigging, launching and recovering. with a piece of rope. Th is rope should be as long
9. The use of a LaserPerformance supplied Bahia mast head float is highly advisable. as possible without fouling the prop when the
(This device will assist in the prevention of complete inversion in the event of capsize). engine is running. A short lanyard can be a
hazard if the engine comes loose from the
Launching bracket as the engine can turn over and the
prop will be in the air. (fi gure 71)
1. Raise the mainsail with the boat facing into the wind.
2. Launch the boat using the appropriate launching trolley.
MAXIMUM recommended engine capacity 3.3 HP
3. Take the boat into the water with the bow facing into the wind.
4. Ensure that there is enough water to float the boat off the trolley/dolly. figure 71
The storage box is secured in by two eye bolts,
5. One person should hold the boat while the other gets in and prepares to set off.
one on either side. Care must be taken when
6. When there is enough water below you, lower the centerboard and rudder fully.
screwing in the eye bolts to avoid cross
7. Cleat the rudder downhaul in the cleat on the tiller and ensure that the wing nut on the side
threading.
of the rudderstock is tight.

The engine must be secured to BOTH eye bolts in

On the water
the box to avoid the engine coming loose in the
1. Conform to the sailing rules of the road. event of capsize.
2. Look out for changing weather conditions.
3. Never sail beyond your ability or that of your crew. Ensure that you and your crew can cope with any The lid has a securing lanyard and can be
changes in the wind conditions. tightened by applying pressure to the lid when
4. Be competent in your sailing skills and righting techniques. cleating the lanyard. Th e lid is a useful seat for figure 72
use with the outboard. (fi gure 72)
Care, Maintenance and Service of your LaserPerformance Owner Information
Product
Before rigging your boat, read and familiarize yourself with the rigging manual. Failure to adhere to these guide-
lines could invalidate your warranty.
hull identification number
Maintenance
• Keep the equipment clean by frequently flushing with fresh water. In corrosive atmospheres, stainless parts may
show discoloration/brown staining around screw holes and rivets. This is not serious and can be removed with
a fine abrasive.
• Excess water should be removed from the hull. purchased from date of purchase
• Ropes, rigging and fittings should be checked at regular intervals for wear and tear, including winch gear.
• All moving parts should be lightly lubricated to avoid jamming, i.e., McLube, dry Teflon or a dry silicone
based spray. Do not use oil.
• Inspect shackles, pins and clevis rings and tape up to stop snagging sails, ropes and clothing and to prevent
them from coming undone. contact name phone #
• When refastening screws do not over tighten as this may strip the thread and do not reuse Nyloc nuts more
than three times.
• Damaged or worn parts should be replaced.
• Sails should be thoroughly washed down with fresh water, dried and stored in a dry place.
address:
Trailers and Trolleys/Dollies
• It is highly recommended that a trolley/dolly is used to launch and recover your boat. Dragging your hull up onto a
beach or slip way will wear away the gel coat or polyethylene and damage the boat. Also, the hull should not be left
on a pebble beach as the hull skin could be dented.
• Trailers should be rinsed with fresh water and checked at regular intervals. It is recommended that trailers be city / state / county zip / postal code
serviced annually. The trailer and road base should never be immersed in water.
• Trailers and trolleys supplied by LaserPerformance are designed to transport the hull in the best possible manner
to avoid damaging the hull. For instance, LaserPerformance does not recommend support hulls on rollers except
on the keel line and only where there is a reinforced keelson. We also recommend gunwale hung trolleys for our
smaller products. Hulls supported by a trolley bunk or wide strap must have the ability to drain water away from
hull color: sail #:
the hull. Trolley bunks padded with carpet or foam can cause blistering in the gel coat and changes to the hull
color. Please do not transport your LaserPerformance product on a trailer or trolley that has not been specifically
designed for the product. Hulls damaged through using an incorrectly designed or wrongly set up trailer or trolley
are not covered under warranty.
• When securing your boat to a trailer for transport be very careful that ratchet straps and ropes are not over
tightened and that there is sufficient padding under the strap or rope to prevent the hull/deck from being damaged registration information (if applicable)
through abrasion or pressure.
• Top covers must not be allowed to “flap” when driving at speed. This can abrade the surface of the hull and
damage it. It is recommended if you are towing and plan to use your top cover that an under cover is fitted first
to prevent cover flap damage to the top sides of the hull.
• Repairs to the polyethylene or GRP hulls should be undertaken by persons with the relevant equipment and skills. trailer vin #
Contact LaserPerformance for advice.

Storage
• Your boat should always be tied down securely to the ground when not in use.
• UV light will cause fading to some components and fittings. A cover is recommended to reduce the UV degradation. license plate number
• Do not leave the rig under tension when not sailing or during storage.
• Care must be taken to support the hull adequately if storing on racking or similar. Any sustained point loading
could permanently dent or distort the hull.
• Under covers for LaserPerformance products should be produced from a breathable or semi breathable fabric to
allow moisture to evaporate away from the hull. This is essential to prevent damage to the hull skin. Also, the hull registration number state / county registered in
should never be left in the under cover wet or damp. A combination of moisture and heat over an extended period
can also damage the hull. The under cover is designed to protect the hull when being transported and should be
removed when the hull is being stored. Typical damage includes small bubbles or blisters, excessive print through
of glass reinforcement, foam or wood and color change.
• Rudders and centerboards must never be stored wet in carry/combo bags. This can cause blistering, print through insurance information
and warpage.
• All our GRP products are designed to be dry sailed. In other words stored on dry land. If you intend to leave your
boat on a mooring for any length of time it is essential that you apply an osmosis barrier coat. LaserPerformance
can recommend a suitable product.

On Water
• When wearing a trapeze harness, take particular care when climbing on to the centerboard and back into the LaserPerformance equips our Bahia with the highest quality parts available. We partner with key suppliers to
boat after a capsize. The trapeze harness hook could easily damage the hull or deck. develop top of the line dinghy equipment so your boat will perform at the highest level possible when sailed

On Water Towing with the factory supplied rope, sails and hardware. Shop online at laserperformance.com or at an authorized
• Towing your LaserPerformance product at high speed (10 – 20 knots) behind a rib or power boat can seriously LaserPerformance dealer to be sure you are getting genuine LaserPerformance parts and accessories.
damage the hull. Boats damaged in this manner are not covered by the warranty. LaserPerformance recommends Visit www.laserperformance.com to fi nd your local dealer.
a maximum towing speed of 6 knots.