c o z y k n i t s.

TheCozyHoodie

TheCozyHoodie is a progressive Design in SeedRibStitch.

First you knit the hood – it is shaped with short rows along the sides – after that you pick up stitches to knit the
ribbing along the hood before you knit the yoke with raglan increases and finish your sweater working in the round.

Sizes: XS / S / M / L / XL / XXL
Sweater Chest Width: 92 / 97 / 105 / 114 / 119 / 128 cm
Length: 47 / 48 / 49 / 50 / 51 / 52 cm (can be easily adjusted)
Gauge: 17 stitches x 30 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm on needle 5,0mm in SeedRibStitch
after washing and blocking!
Needles: DPN’s in 4,0 mm
Circular Needle 4,0mm in 60cm or 80cm length
Circular Needle 5,0mm in 40cm, 60cm and 80/100cm length
Material /
Recommended yarn: 300 / 400 / 400 / 400 / 500 / 500 g BC Semilla Melange held together with 125 / 150 / 150 / 175 /
200 / 225 g Sandnes TynnSilkMohair
The total yarn consumption per strand ist 950 / 1.100 / 1.200 / 1.400 / 1.550 / 1.750 meters

Yarn alternatives: Two strands Sandnes Sunday / KfO Merino / Filcolana Arwetta with one strand Sandnes
TynnSilkMohair / KfO SoftSilkMohair / Filcolana Tilia
One strand KfO DoubleSoftMerino with one strand Faden KfO SoftSilkMohair
One strand CaMaRose Snefnug

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Abbreviations / Explanations

st stitch(es)
k knit
p purl
ES edge stitch (first / last stitch of a row)
SM stitchmarker
k2tog. Knit two stitches together as if it was one stitch
ssk slip slip knit (slip one stitch as if to knit, knit the second stitch and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted
one)
R row / round
RS raglanstitches

Before you start knitting:

Begin by knitting a swatch to determine which needle size you need to achieve the correct gauge – it is important for the
fit of the style to achieve the correct gauge. Pls wash your swatch and let it dry properly before measuring!

Moreover, I recommend reading through all the pages of instructions once before you start knitting to know what’s
coming next.
In case you should have any questions or insecurities please do not hesitate to contact me – I’ll do my very best to help!

Sizes:

TheCozyOneSweater should be worn with a positive ease of about 9-12 cm.

Pls measure your own chest width or the widest part of your body and choose a size for yourself based on that. For
example: my chest width currently measures 94cm - I knitted a size M for myself which has a sweater chest width of
105cm.

Seed Rib Stitch:

- - - 2 Right side rows: Knit stitch

- 1 Wrong side rows: Purl stitch
4 3 2 1
- Right side rows: Purl stitch
Wrong side rows: Knit stitch

TheCozyHoodie is worked in Seed Rib Stitch. This pattern has a repeat

of 4 stitches and 2 rows. Pls note that the insctruction chart above is
read from right to left and bottom up.

All increases, which are worked for the hood or the raglan increases
on the sweater, are integrated from the beginning into the pattern
next to the increase stitch / raglan stitch.

Please see the picture beside: It shows very well how the pattern
continues right next to the increases.

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Increases worked in Seed Rib stitch:

As just explained the seed rib stitch continues correctly right next to the increase stitch / raglan stitches. Therefor you
have to work different kinds of increases to get the correct outcome for every position of the repeat pattern.

M1r (k) right slanting increase, knit stitch

Insert the needle under the thread between two stitches from the back and knit it.

M1r (p) right slanting increase, purl stitch

Insert the needle under the thread between two stitches from the back and purl it.

M1l (k) left slanting increase, knit stitch

Insert the needle under the thread between two stitches from the front and knit it through the back loop

M1l (p) left slanting increase, purl stitch

Insert the needle under the thread between two stitches from the front and purl it through the back loop

There is a video on my website cozyknits.de that shows increases in seed rib stitch – feel free to watch!

Hood:

Upper Head:

Cast on 27 / 31 / 31 / 31 / 35 / 35 stitches on your circular needle 5,0mm, 40cm with an elastic cast-on method.
You start by knitting in rows.

The first row is a wrong side row. You start to work in seed rib stitch right away:

ES, 7x * p1, k3*, p1, ES

In the following right side row, start working in seed rib stitch according to the chart above. Start with row 1 and repeat
rows 1 and 2 until your work measures 14 / 16 / 16 / 16 / 18 / 18 cm from the cast-on edge.

Because your work has 27 / 31 / 31 / 31 / 35 / 35 stitches, the last repeat of each row is not complete. This means that
you end each right side row with one knit stitch before you knit the edge stitch, and each wrong side row is ended with
one purl stitch before you knit the edge stitch.

The edge stitches are done as knit stitches in all rows.

Finish the upper head with a wrong side row (row 2 of the chart).

Side parts:

Now you start with the side parts of the hood: pick up 32 / 36 / 36 / 36 / 36 / 40 sts from the right edge of your upper
head, starting from the cast on edge. Then knit all 27 / 31 / 31 / 31 / 35 / 35 sts currently on your needle in seed rib stitch.
Caution! Integrate the previous edge stitches into the pattern. They must be worked as knit stitches in this first row.

After working the 27 / 31 / 31 / 31 / 35 / 35 sts of the upper head section, pick up another 32 / 36 / 36 / 36 / 36 / 40 sts
from the left edge of the upper head.

You now have 91 / 103 / 103 / 103 / 107 / 115 sts on the needle.

You continue to work in rows. The first row you are working is a wrong side row (row 2 of the chart):

ES, * p1, k3 * until 2st remain on the needle, p1, ES

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You have now started the seed rib stitch for the side parts of the hood as well. The upper head stitches are integrated
into the seed rib stitch.
Work in rows in seed rib stitch until the side parts of the hood measure 21 / 23 / 23 / 23 / 24 / 24 cm from the pick-up
edge. Finish this part with a wrong side row (row 2 of the chart).

Short rows at both side parts of the hood:

Now it's time for the short rows on the side parts. Please see
the picture beside:

To give the hood the volume it needs along the face, short
rows are worked on the side parts of the hood.

I recommend working these short rows with the wrap-and-turn method. You can find the video Verkürzte Reihen am
TheCozyHoodie – Teil 1 on my website cozyknits.de explaining the first set of short rows in seed rib stitch. Feel free to
watch!

Work as follows to form the short rows at the left side part of the hood (when worn):

ES, 28 sts in seed rib stitch, turn your work after a wrap around the knit stitch.
Work the wrong side row in seed rib stitch to the end of the row.

ES, 24 sts in seed rib stitch, turn your work after a wrap around the knit stitch.
Work the wrong side row in seed rib stitch to the end of the row.

ES, 20 sts in seed rib stitch, turn your work after a wrap around the knit stitch.
Work the wrong side row in seed rib stitch to the end of the row.

As you can see, you will decrease the number of stitches worked in seed rib stitch by 4 stitches in every right side row
before you work your next wrap and turn.

Work a total of 7 turns in this way and after each turn knit the corresponding wrong side row in the seed rib stitch.

After finishing the 7th turn and the corresponding wrong side row, work a complete right side row over all stitches,
working all wraps as shown in the video.

In the following wrong side row, you start to work the short rows at the right side part of the hood (when worn).

Again, I recommend working these short rows with the wrap-and-turn method. You can find the video Verkürzte Reihen
am TheCozyHoodie – Teil 2 on my website cozyknits.de explaining the second set of short rows in seed rib stitch. Feel
free to watch!

ES, 28 sts in seed rib stitch, turn your work after a wrap around the purl stitch.
Work the right side row in seed rib stitch to the end of the row.

ES, 24 sts in seed rib stitch, turn your work after a wrap around the purl stitch.
Work the right side row in seed rib stitch to the end of the row.

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ES, 20 sts in seed rib stitch, turn your work after a wrap around the purl stitch.
Work the right side row in seed rib stitch to the end of the row.

As you can see, you will decrease the number of stitches worked in seed rib stitch by 4 stitches in every wrong side row
before you work your next wrap and turn.

Work a total of 7 turns in this way and after each turn knit the corresponding right side row in the seed rib stitch.

After finishing the 7th turn and the corresponding right side row, work a complete wrong side row over all stitches,
working all wraps as shown in the video.

You are now done with the short rows at the side parts of the hood.

Decreases in center back of the hood (back neck):

To also give the back of the hood a nice volume we now work decreases in center back.

Place two stitch markers as follows:

Right side row: ES, 37 / 45 / 45 / 45 / 45 / 49 sts in seed rib stitch, place SM, 15 / 11 / 11 / 11 / 15 / 15 sts in seed rib stitch,
place SM, all remaining sts in row in seed rib stitch

Wrong side row: all sts in seed rib stitch

You have now placed two SM: the decreases are now worked in every other row BEFORE the 1st SM and AFTER the 2nd
SM.

All decreases BEFORE the 1st SM are worked as K2tog.

All decreases AFTER the 2nd SM are worked as ssk.
Repeat complete in
Repeat is not complete center back

Pls check the picture beside. The 15 / 11 / 11 / 11 / 15 / 15 Body

stitches, which are "framed" by the two SM, always form a
complete repeat even during the decreases. Next to these 15
/ 11 / 11 / 11 / 15 / 15 stitches the decreases are worked, so
that the repeat of the Seed-Rib-Stitch is not complete until you
have worked the 4th or 8th decrease respectively.

Now work 8 / 8 / 8 / 8 / 8 / 8 decreases per side so that you

have a total of 16 / 16 / 16 / 16 / 16 / 16 sts decreased.

This means that you have worked a total of 16 / 16 / 16 / 16 /

16 / 16 rows: 8 / 8 / 8 / 8 / 8 / 8 right side rows (with two Hood
decreases each) and the corresponding wrong side rows.

The hood is now finished. Cut the thread. Leave your stitches on the circular needle 5.0mm.
You have a total of 75 / 87 / 87 / 87 / 91 / 99 stitches on your needle.

Hood ribbing:

There is w ribbing along the front edge of the hood. You’ll work this ribbing as follows:

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Pick up stitches with your circular needle 4.0mm, 60 / 80cm along the front edge of the hood. Start from the bottom right
and work all the way up to the upper head and back down to the bottom left. Always pick up about 3 stitches from 4 rows
/ stitches (4/3). Be sure to pick up the same number of stitches on the right and left side of the hood to maintain symmetry.

Your first row is a wrong side row: ES, * k1, p1 *, ES

Now knit 6 more rows in the established rib pattern, all sts as they appear. End with a wrong side row.

In the following right side row we start with the first set of short rows in the ribbing. I recommend using the wrap-and-
turn method. The two videos on my website explain how to wrap-and-turn for both purl and knit stitches.

Right side row 60 st in established rib pattern, wrap and turn your work
Wrong side row work all st as they appear – knit over knit, purl over purl

Right side row 45 st in established rib pattern, wrap and turn your work
Wrong side row work all st as they appear – knit over knit, purl over purl

Right side row 30 st in established rib pattern, wrap and turn your work
Wrong side row work all st as they appear – knit over knit, purl over purl

Right side row 15 st in established rib pattern, wrap and turn your work
Wrong side row work all st as they appear – knit over knit, purl over purl

Work one right side row over all stitches in established rib pattern.

In the following wrong side row we start with the second set of short rows in the ribbing.

Wrong side row 60 st in established rib pattern, wrap and turn your work
Right side row work all st as they appear – knit over knit, purl over purl

Wrong side row 45 st in established rib pattern, wrap and turn your work
Right side row work all st as they appear – knit over knit, purl over purl

Wrong side row 30 st in established rib pattern, wrap and turn your work
Right side row work all st as they appear – knit over knit, purl over purl

Wrong side row 15 st in established rib pattern, wrap and turn your work
Right side row work all st as they appear – knit over knit, purl over purl

Work 7 more rows in established rib pattern. End this part with a wrong side row.
Bind of all stitches – I recommend the Italian bind-off. There is a video on my website explaining the Italian bind-off – feel
free to watch!

Yoke:

Place the bottom edge of the right side ribbing on the bottom edge of the left side ribbing.

Now pick up the yarn and with the right needle that is still carrying the hood stitches, pick up 13 / 13 / 13 / 13 / 13 / 13
sts from the two bottom edges of the ribbings from right to left.

Now your work is closed to the round. This means that from now on you will continue to knit in the round, no longer in
rows! Please note that from now on you will knit both row 1 and row 2 of the seed rib stitch as right side rows. Check the
chart once more to get the right set of stitches.

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After picking up the 13 / 13 / 13 / 13 / 13 / 13 sts in the bottom edge of both ribbings, continue knitting in seed rib stitch.

As the last row knitted was a wrong side row (row 2 of the chart), you now work row 1 of the seed rib stitch. Pls SM as
follows:

5 / 9 / 9 / 9 / 9 / 9 sts seed rib stitch (front), 1. SM, 5 sts in seed rib stitch (raglan sts), 2. SM, 11 / 11 / 11 / 11 / 11 / 15 sts
in seed rib stitch (sleeve), 3. SM, 5 sts in seed rib stitch (raglan sts), 4. SM, 23 / 27 / 27 / 27 / 31 / 31 sts in seed rib stitch
(back), 5. SM, 5 sts in seed rib stitch (raglan sts), 6. MM, 11 / 11 / 11 / 11 / 11 / 15 sts in seed rib stitch (sleeve), 7. MM, 5
sts in seed rib stitch (raglan sts), 8. SM (=beginning of round).

Caution! This just placed 8. SM shows the new beginning of

round. Actually there still remain 5 / 9 / 9 / 9 / 9 / 9 stitches
to complete the round, but we have to move the beginning
of round at this point:
beginning of round - BEFORE
Beginning of round - AFTER
Until now, the beginning of round was at the front edge of
the hood, but to continue, we need to move the beginning
of round 5 / 9 / 9 / 9 / 9 / 9 sts to the right (when the hood is
lying flat front of you in the correct knitting direction).
Please refer to the picture beside.

This means that you start the pattern of the new round after
this last and 8th SM. Up to the 8th SM you have worked row
1 of the chart, from the 8th SM (beginning of round) you will
start to work row 2 of the chart.

This also means that you don’t work the “correct” row over
the now following 5 / 9 / 9 / 9 / 9 / 9 sts up to the previous
beginning of round.

This shift of the beginning of round is hardly visible on the

finished piece, but essential for the rest of the pattern.

Your stitches can now be categorized as follows:

23 / 31 / 31 / 31 / 31 / 31 sts front (5 / 9 / 9 / 9 / 9 / 9 sts + 13 sts just picked up + 5 / 9 / 9 / 9 / 9 / 9 sts).

5 sts raglan sts
11 / 11 / 11 / 11 / 11 / 15 sts sleeve
5M raglan sts
23 / 27 / 27 / 27 / 31 / 31 sts back
5M raglan sts
11 / 11 / 11 / 11 / 11 / 15 sts sleeve
5M raglan sts

Finish this row 2 of the chart, checking that the number of stitches on each section is correct. Now everything is ready
and prepared to start with the raglan increases in the next step.

You will now start with the raglan increases. They will be worked in every other round immediately before and after the
5 raglan stitches.

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To integrate the increases correctly into the seed rib stitch, please refer to the part about increases in seed rib stitch at
the beginning of this pattern and the corresponding video on my website.

Right before the raglan stitches you work your increases as right slanting increases. After the raglan stitches, all increases
are worked as left slanting increases.
Depending on how the increase is to be integrated into the seed rib stitch, it is worked as a knit stitch or a purl stitch.

Row 1 (Increase round):

M1L, all sts in seed rib stitch to 1st SM, M1r, slip 1st SM, 5 RS, slip 2nd SM, M1l,
all sts in seed rib stitch to 3rd SM, M1r, slip 3rd SM, 5 RS, slip 4th SM, M1l,
all sts in seed rib stitch to 5th SM, M1r, slip 5th SM, 5 RS, slip 6th SM, M1l,
all sts in seed rib stitch to 7th SM, M1r, slip 7th SM, 5 RS, slip 8th SM.

Row 2 (round without increases): work all sts in seed rib stitch as they appear.

Repeat these two rows a total of 20 / 20 / 24 / 28 / 28 / 32 times. You have now worked a total of 20 / 20 / 24 / 28 / 28 /
32 raglan increases and increased a total of 160 / 160 / 192 / 224 / 224 / 256 sts.
You now have a total of 248 / 260 / 292 / 324 / 328 / 368 stitches on the needle.

Your stitches can now be categorized as follows:

63 / 71 / 79 / 87 / 87 / 95 sts front.
5 sts raglan stitches
51 / 51 / 59 / 67 / 67 / 79 sts sleeve
5M raglan sts
63 / 67 / 75 / 83 / 87 / 95 sts back
5M raglan sts
51 / 51 / 59 / 67 / 67 / 79 sts sleeve
5 sts raglan sts

In the next round, you separate the body from the sleeves. All raglan stitches are added to the body. You are done with
the yoke.

Body:

Work 68 / 76 / 84 / 92 / 92 / 100 sts in seed rib stitch (63 / 71 / 79 / 87 / 87 / 95 sts front + 5 RS).
Put the following 51 / 51 / 59 / 67 / 67 / 79 sts to rest on a piece of scrap yarn or a remaining cable. Cast on new 3 sts
(armpit).

Work 73 / 77 / 85 / 93 / 97 / 105 sts in seed rib stitch (5 RS + 63 / 67 / 75 / 83 / 87 / 95 sts back + 5 RS).

Put the following 51 / 51 / 59 / 67 / 67 / 79 sts to rest on a piece of scrap yarn or a remaining cable. Cast on new 3 sts
(armpit).

Work 5 sts in seed rib stitch (RS). Keep the SM for the beginning of the round in place.

You now have a total of 152 / 164 / 180 / 196 / 200 / 216 sts on needle for body.

Work in rounds in seed rib stitch until your sweater measures 40 / 41 / 42 / 43 / 44 / 45 cm from the beginning of the
raglan increases. At this point you can lengthen or shorten your sweater as desired.
The three newly cast on stitches under the armpit are integrated into the seed rib stitch from the beginning.

Change to needle size 4,0mm and work 7cm in rib pattern * k1, p1 *.
Loosely bind off all stitches. I recommend the Italian bind-off.

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Sleeve:

First, take the 51 / 51 / 59 / 67 / 67 / 79 stitches of the left sleeve onto a short circular knitting needle 5.0mm, 40cm.

Cast on a total of 5 stitches at the bottom of the sleeve into the 3 newly picked up stitches of the body. Place a SM after
these 5 newly picked up stitches = beginning of round.

The 5 picked up stitches are integrated into the seed rib stitch from the beginning. You now have a total of 56 / 56 / 64 /
72 / 72 / 84 stitches on your needle.

Work in seed rib stitch until your sleeve measures 31 / 32 / 31 / 38 / 29 / 26 cm (measured from the armpit to the bottom
edge) At this point you can lengthen or shorten your sleeve as you wish.

Now we start with the sleeve decreases. Therefor place 2 SM as follows:

Work 20 / 20 / 24 / 28 / 28 / 32 sts in seed rib stitch, place 1st SM, work 11 sts in seed rib stitch, place 2nd SM, work 25 /
25 / 29 / 33 / 33 / 37 sts in seed rib stitch.

You have now placed two SM.

The decreases are worked in every other round right BEFORE the 1st SM and right AFTER the 2nd SM.

Work the decreases BEFORE the 1st SM as k2tog.

Work the decreases AFTER the 2nd SM as ssk.

Work 9 / 9 / 13 / 17 / 17 / 21 decreases per side, so that you decreased a total of 18 / 18 / 26 / 34 / 34 / 42 sts.

This means that you have worked a total of 18 / 18 / 26 / 34 / 34 / 42 rounds: 9 / 9 / 13 / 17 / 17 / 21 rounds (with two
decreases each) and the corresponding "wrong side rounds" without decreases.
You now have a total of 38 / 38 / 38 / 38 / 38 / 42 sts on the needle.

You can always switch to DPN’s to accommodate the decreasing number of stitches on your needle.

After the last round of decreases is done switch to needle 4,0mm. Work 7cm in rib pattern * k1, p1 *
Loosely bind off all stitches.

Second, take the 51 / 51 / 59 / 67 / 67 / 79 stitches of the right sleeve onto a short circular knitting needle 5.0mm, 40cm.

Cast on a total of 5 stitches at the bottom of the sleeve into the 3 newly picked up stitches of the body. Place a SM after
these 5 newly picked up stitches = beginning of round.

The 5 picked up stitches are integrated into the seed rib stitch from the beginning. You now have a total of 56 / 56 / 64 /
72 / 72 / 84 stitches on your needle.

Work in seed rib stitch until your sleeve measures 31 / 32 / 31 / 38 / 29 / 26 cm (measured from the armpit to the bottom
edge) At this point you can lengthen or shorten your sleeve as you wish.

Now we start with the sleeve decreases. Therefor place 2 SM as follows:

Work 24 / 24 / 28 / 32 / 32 / 36 sts in seed rib stitch, place 1st SM, work 11 sts in seed rib stitch, place 2nd SM, work 21
/ 21 / 25 / 29 / 29 / 33 sts in seed rib stitch.

You have now placed two SM.

The decreases are worked in every other round right BEFORE the 1st SM and right AFTER the 2nd SM.

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Work the decreases BEFORE the 1st SM as k2tog.
Work the decreases AFTER the 2nd SM as ssk.

Work 9 / 9 / 13 / 17 / 17 / 21 decreases per side, so that you decreased a total of 18 / 18 / 26 / 34 / 34 / 42 sts.

This means that you have worked a total of 18 / 18 / 26 / 34 / 34 / 42 rounds: 9 / 9 / 13 / 17 / 17 / 21 rounds (with two
decreases each) and the corresponding "wrong side rounds" without decreases.
You now have a total of 38 / 38 / 38 / 38 / 38 / 42 sts on the needle.

You can always switch to DPN’s to accommodate the decreasing number of stitches on your needle.

After the last round of decreases is done switch to needle 4,0mm. Work 7cm in rib pattern * k1, p1 *
Loosely bind off all stitches.

Finishing:

Sew in all loose ends and bathe your TheCozyHoodie in lukewarm water with a mild wool detergent. I would be so happy
if it would become one of your new favorite pieces!

I’d love to see your Hoodie on Instagram!

#TheCozyHoodie #cozyknits

@clarissaschellong

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