Product Forecast

Men’s Textiles Forecast

A/W 22/23: Rerooted
Nature
Eco-friendly fibres, traditional crafts and protective
materials underpin our Rerooted Nature forecast, which
explores durable and cosy textiles that are fit for outdoor
and indoor adventures

Helen Palmer
01.17.21 · 14 minutes

Costume Magazine
Introduction
Rerooted Nature is an affirmation of the things that connect us – nature, heritage,
craft and community – and an examination of how they can guide us through a time
when we are all being re-routed on to new paths.
Nature has become the great unifier and healer in a period of upheaval, and this
direction explores our symbiotic relationship with it. Here, it is both something to
protect, through the use of sustainable and regenerative processes, and something
to be protected from, through outdoors-friendly designs and comforting, cocooning
products. It is something to go out and freely explore, and something to incorporate
into our spaces and products. And it is something to inform designs, through the
practical use of raw materials and ingredients, and something to inspire them,
through a romantic focus on natural motifs, fabrics and colours.
Earthy textures, local and low-impact production, and ancient wisdom and rituals
will inspire new developments in this trend, and so will science and technology, with
a focus on biophilic advancements, and even immersive experiences that bring us up
close and personal with wilderness.
As we venture into new terrain and create fresh connections in the coming years,
nature, heritage, craft and community will be the roots that renew and sustain us, re-
potting us for growth.

Norse Projects x Barbour

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Action points

Dig deep into organic Outdoors influences will drive Bring craft closer to heart and Embed traditional perennials
regenerative fibres to deliver robust, all-weather materials home with respectful artisan with a tapestry of natural colour
eco-friendly natural textiles that are built to last partnerships and texture

Collaborate with industry efforts Capitalise on the expanding outdoor Champion respectful, mutually Reassure consumers with good quality,
investing in regenerative farming. market by investing in robust all- beneficial and ethical artisan investment-worthy classics that have
Tapping into this ancient and holistic weather materials. Focus on climate- collaborations on regional and local been thoughtfully reworked. Update
route can aid soil health and protective durable utility cottons, scales, creating socially responsible heritage-inspired checks and stripes
biodiversity. Source organic, traceable insulating woollens and functional eco- ranges with unique keepsake value. with lived-in textures for a vintage
and ethical fibres. Organic linen, hemp proofs that can handle extreme Work with region-specific craft mood. Bucolic SuperNature themes
and cotton, as well as wool and other climates and function as casual communities, and celebrate their play out in nostalgic botanical colours
animal hair qualities enhance undyed weekend-wear. Choose authentic unique handwritings across weave, and textures. Leverage the timeless
and naturally occurring yarns with plaids, blanket-check wools and robust print, stitch- and dye-craft, enhanced value of cosy classics with woollen
rustic homespun weaves for authentic, camping proofs that will age well and with scalable, low-impact colour via tweeds, blanket-style woollens and
eco-friendly classics last a lifetime # naturaldyes cosy plush and corduroy

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Natural protection
The concep t: Give casual cottons and outdoor
proofs a sturdy durability with natural eco-tech
finishes.
Fibre & yar n: Opt for BCI- and GOTS-certified
cotton, and look at colour-grown cotton like
Vreseis Limited Fox Fibre. Consider linen,
Ventile
hemp and RWS-certified wools for natural
performance.
Cons tr uction & finish: Utility outwear goes
circular via fibre, construction, finish and eco-
dyes. Compact # utility drills, twills, ripstops 4s Designs Carsten in der Elst

and canvas improve on durability with bio-

coatings and backing or compact weaves. Opt
for bio-polymer coatings and naturally proofed
beeswax, plant-seed and coconut oil waxes as
PU alternatives. Crumpled and scratched Norse Projects x Barbour

surfaces add worn-in texture. Bring in natural

performance in quality, long-lasting fabrics
like Ventile and British Millerain's breathable,
waterproof, DWR-free finishes.
Relevant for: jackets, bottoms, accessories,
outerwear

ATP Atelier Shinkong Textile British Millerain

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Adventurer camouflage
The concep t: Changing ecological and
economic climates will see resilient outdoor-
wear evolving as a worthwhile investment in
durable, long-lasting fabrics.
Fibre & yar n: Opt for BCI-, GOTS-certified and
recycled cotton, adding hemp or wool for a
Stephen Walters & Sons
robust hand-feel. Cordura and Dyneema add
strength and durability, as well as recycled
polyesters and nylons.
Cons tr uction & finish: A non-invasive RCA Innovation Design Engineeri
observation of nature inspires true-to-life Al Mefer ng

camouflage via geological terrains, photo-real

undergrowth imagery and earthy, mud-stained
colour. Explore customisable innovations that
let adventurers create their own narratives.
Take inspiration from the RCA ID REVO jacket, Zhejiang Mizuda Textile

made of pressure-sensitive piezochromic

fabric that changes colour as explorers brush
past nature. Build in bio-based, low-impact,
breathable wind- and rain-proof finishes.
Relevant for: jackets, outerwear, accessories

Dr Martens Our Legacy Greg Sand

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Authentic tweed
The concep t: The enduring appeal
of traditional cloths remains, with wool tweeds
favoured for robust durability and outdoor
protection.
Fibre & yar n: Trace wool to RWS-certified and
special-breed farms to offer provenance and
Dash + Miller
quality. Sturdy mélange lambswool and
Shetland yarns are key, as well as
nepped Donegal tweeds. Add flax, hemp or
cotton to wool to bring out dry and kemped
touches. @quilt_while_youre_ahead Monosuit

Cons tr uction: Develop twill, herringbone and

hatched tweeds, or Prince of Wales and Glen
checks in tweedier yarns. Blocked and patched
compositions add a more rustic, handcrafted
look, as seen at Rowing Blazers and Beams @nadinewilde.textiles

Plus Harris Tweed. Stitched, quilted and

reversible qualities are made climate-
adaptable and weather-proof via natural fleece
oil and plant-based waxes.
Relevant for: jackets, outerwear, soft
accessories

Ventures Mario Cucchetti Tessuti Fasac

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Foraged colour
The concep t: Harness the power of
natural matter to dye, print and stain materials,
tapping into long-held ancient techniques for
earth-friendly colours.
Fibre & yar n: Unprocessed GOTS-certified,
BCI and Fair Trade cotton, hemp, linen and
JJR Spin Textile
wools are the favoured natural fibres, along
with cellulosic qualities.
Cons tr uction & finish: Plain and piqué
shirting, casual drills, denims, ribs, twills and
canvas weaves get foraged colour Buckmaster & French Ziggy Chen

makeovers. Mushrooms are gaining visibility as

a dye. Brand Olderbrother steeped capsule
ranges in chaga mushroom tea, and Eden
Power Corp's earthy collection was inspired by
fungi. Also featured here are Hul Le Ke's food- Taylor Stitch

waste dye shirts, Taylor Stitch's plant-dye

denim, and Iggy Chen's richly pigmented
separates.
Relevant for: shirts, jackets, bottoms, denim,
soft accessories, outerwear

Older Brother Hul le Kes Taiana

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Timeworn checks
The concep t: A draw towards everlasting
perennials and revived interest in vintage will
preserve interest in
authentic lumberjack checks and plaids.
Fibre & yar n: Fibres should be natural and
ecologically sourced. Look at GOTS, BCI and
Catarina Riccabona
organic cottons, RWS-, ZQ- or Woolmark-
certified wool and linen.
Cons tr uction: Create colour layouts with
longevity for reassuring, heritage-inspired
shirting and jacketing. Blocked and patched Dr. Collectors The Upsetter

splicing as well as dobby motifs will add

interest. Create reverse-pattern double-cloths,
padded shacket-weights and brushed, flannel
finishes. Aged vintage looks are key, as seen at
LA Brand Dr.Collectors, whose American Advance Denim

heritage-inspired pieces showcase fade-downs

and ombré dip-dyed plaids.
Relevant for: shirts, jackets, bottoms, soft
accessories, outerwear

Tia Ansell Dr Collectors Cotonificio Albini

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Bucolic impressions
The concep t: The Backyard Botanical direction
from S/S 22 evolves into mindful, garden-based
textiles with a # naturaldye cast from foraged
vegetation.
Fibre & yar n: Source GOTS-certified cotton,
BCI and Fair Trade cotton, bast fibres linen and
UAL Graduate Showcaste / Yejie Chen
hemp, and RWS wools for authentic
unprocessed fabric bases, which work well for
carrying natural pigments and dyes.
Finish: Use plants to stain or press into fabric
for botanical impressions, and devise imprinted Piet Oudolf @Eeaseeofficial

jacquards and painted warp designs. Over-print

checks and stripes with ditzy sprigs and leaf
prints. Inspiration comes from Taylor
Stitch's Earth Day natural-dyed capsule
essentials, Korean brand Easee's splotched Dash & Miller

matching sets, and Craig Green's quilted

worker jacket.
Relevant for: shirts, jackets, bottoms, denim,
soft accessories

Browns Fashion / Craig Green Woven Studio Taylor Stitch

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Carved texture
The concep t: Develop rustic weaves that
appear to be shaped by nature, with dense
textures that can offer natural durability and
decorative insulation.
Fibre & yar n: Use traceable and certified RWS
carded woollens with nep additions, along with
Pallavi Padukone
flax, hemp or certified cotton to bring out a
drier touch.
Cons tr uction: Develop tree bark-like
deflected weaves and eroded-look jacquards
using tweed yarns. Textile designer Pallavi James Brunt Wonder Mountain

Padukone's Familiar Fragrances weaves

inspire, with handloom weaves that incorporate
natural vetiver and jasmine aromas, South
Indian colour and craft, and the texture of local
landscapes, accented with print and Dash & Miller

embroidery. We also love the natural repetition

of Srinvanti Roy's printed, sun-bleached and
cutaway cotton fabrics. Take inspiration from
the textured jacket by Japanese brand Wonder
Mountain.
Relevant for: jackets, outerwear, soft
accessories

Dash + Miller Srinvanti Roy Pallavi Padukone

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Traveller's chest
The concep t: The Considered Culture trend of
S/S 22 further evolves in meaningful
considered craft, customising
authentic casualwear and sportswear with
region-specific motifs.
Fibre & yar n: Source GOTS-certified, BCI and
Kambli Studio
Fair Trade cotton, adding hemp and linen for
slubbed character. Peace silk and lyocell add
drape, and craft RWS-certified merino wool
into artisan jackets.
Cons tr uction: Hand-dyed kilims and hand- Paria Farzaneh @pierrelouismascia

looms inspire time-worn jacquards and

dobby weaves in tapestry-inspired colour. Add
crewel work to artisan weaves for keepsake
jackets, and wood-block prints to update shirts
and casualwear. Look to Paria Farzaneh's Dash + Miller

streetwear, which brings together Iranian

patterns with workwear inspirations. Be
considerate with region-specific patterns, and
focus on empowering artisans through
collaborations.
Relevant for: shirts, jackets, bottoms, denim,
accessories, outerwear

Sri Threads Maison ARTC Texvogue, Textil, Dimas S.A.

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Craftisan weaves
The concep t: Rattan, straw and sisal basketry
inspire handcrafted weaves in regenerative,
vegetal and agro-waste fibres, offering a twist
on rustic constructions.
Fibre & yar n: Agricultural fibres will reap bio-
diverse benefits. Follow Circular Systems'
Helga Matos x SPINEXPO™
Agraloop fibre and use soil-friendly flax and
hemp bast fibres, as well as ahimsa silk and
blends in RWS-certified wool.
Cons tr uction: Work handloom looks in
homespun structures, like Tess Whiting's Piano-Nobile / Hannah Gluckstein @garmentory

grass-inspired linen checks. Add a home-craft

element with subtle warp painting and corded
or flat tape raffia-inspired extra-weft yarns, and
use leno, hopsack and basketweave
structures. Also consider space-dyed colour- Tess Whiting

woven checks and blocky jacquards. We're also

inspired by Emma Bruschi's Almanac collection
in finely crocheted straw-work.
Relevant for: shirts, jackets, bottoms, denim,
soft accessories, outerwear

@emma.bruschi Tamara Dew Studio @silvia.beccaria

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Casual cord
The concep t: Outdoor and indoor casuals take
on a more tactile character in moleskins,
# corduroys and casual matte velvets.
Fibre & yar n: Use certified cotton for matte,
casual looks, with modal and lyocell blends for
soft handles.
Changzhou Xindongyuan Textile Co., Fabrics China
Cons tr uction & finish: Match this look with
low-maintenance comfort for indoor-outdoor
practicality. Create further texture through
subtle jacquard patterns, bicoloured effects,
and pigment prints. Embrace a sustainable Dr Collectors Dr Collectors

angle by patching deadstock materials

together and using stitching and quilting for
cosier, insulating garments. Inspiration here
comes Angelo Urrutia's nascent collection at
4SDesigns, combining corduroy and checks, @franz.thieves

along with Beams' over-printed corduroy

patchwork pieces.
Relevant for: shackets, jackets, outerwear

Kipas Casual 4s Designs Beams

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Blanket warmth
The concep t: Natural textures inspire this
protective blanket-warmth theme, evolving
from WGSN's A/W 21/22 materials
trend, Woolly Protection.
Fibre & yar n: Responsibly source ethical
animal-hair yarns, RWS wool, RMS mohair, yak
Jenny Cerquetti
and alpaca to bring natural insulating warmth.
Use felted rovings and bouclé yarns for
texture, as well as Shetland, lambswool and
nepped Donegal tweed.
Cons tr uction: Make brushed and pressed Geysir Yoke

qualities look authentic in shaded-colour

ombré effects. Develop robust, insulating
brushed and napped winter-weight woollen
flannels, felts and meltons with textured
stripes, plaids and checks, or jacquard patterns Holzweiler

for a more decorative, homespun option. Here

we highlight Shanghai-based brand Ziggy Chen,
which fuses Western culture with traditional
Chinese design, seen here in earthy soft layers.
Also take inspiration from Yoke Tokyo's
blanket knits.
Relevant for: outerwear, jackets, soft
accessories
Carthenni Ziggy Chen Ralph Lauren

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Bio-fleece
The concep t: High-pile fleece goes more
natural, with functional biodegradable
alternatives to synthetics.
Fibre & yar n: Source RWS-certified and
traceable wools for extra-warm, weather-
adaptive qualities, with bio-based synthetics
IMPERIALI ATTILIO TESSITURA
offering insulating mid-layers.
Cons tr uction & finish: Emulate sherpa looks
with matte-surface plush fleece and borg. Tap
into upcycling concepts by piecing together
different textures, such as Vollebak's Ice Age Hiking Patrol John Biccard

sheep’s wool and lab wool hoodie, with

asymmetric panelling inspired by stitched-
together animal hides, including rugged
clumps mimicking a sheep’s natural coat. We
are also inspired by Kapital's chunky patterned And Wander

sherpa fleece yoke on a popover waxed cotton

anorak.
Relevant for: shackets, jackets, outerwear

Kapital Vollebak Jaeil Fabric & Chemical

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Plant-based skins
The concep t: SuperNature enhancements are
driving leather-look plant-based materials as
the industry scales up on eco-friendly, bio-
based vegan alternatives.
Fibre: Make use of food waste such as
pineapple leaves, apple skins wine waste and
Bark Cloth
other plant-based materials as plant-derived
leather starts to scale, such as Vegea wine
leather and mycelium mushroom bio-material
Mylo, currently in development with adidas,
which tans and dyes similar to leather. Arts Thread / Tiina Palm Srinvanti Roy

Cons tr uction & finish: Develop interesting

organic-looking textures via embossing, 3D
printing and casting. Exploit weather-worn
patinas and textures via engineered-look
tumbled grains, creased, uneven and imperfect adidas x Bolt Threads

textures, and stained and dappled colour.

Relevant for: jackets, outerwear, accessories

Anya Muangkote Eden Power Corp Vegea

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Industry credits and collaborations
Thanks to the following fabric and Huamao (Xiamen) Weaving Dyeing & Dash + Miller Woven Studio
textiles mills and weave design studios, Finishing Co Dash + Miller specialises in the design, Woven Studio produces a seasonal
which collaborated with WGSN to development and production of woven collection of woven and multi-process
Inseta
provide sourced seasonal fabrics for the global fashion and fabric swatches using carefully sourced
developments and exclusive samples Jaeil Fabric & Chemical interiors industries, using experimental yarns and materials. With a broad range
for the A/W 22/23 forecast reports. Jiangsu Huaye Textile yarn, structure, colour and finishing. Its of experience in design development,
portfolio of original samples offers an the studio is fully equipped to work on
JJR Spin Textile
inspirational range, complete with projects from trim and fabric
Featured des igners Kazaroglu Tekstil technical information for mill design and development to meterage that is hand-
Jenny Cerquetti Kivanc Tekstil development. A consultancy service is woven in-house, while also offering
also offered for specific projects, industrial production solutions with
Yejie Chen Kuwamura
including mixed-media designs, screen different weaving mills in the UK and
Tamara Dew Lamintess Srl prints and hand wovens, and the studio around the world. With extensive
Jaeyong Kim Lanificio Luigi Ricceri collaborates with a high-end UK knowledge of yarn suppliers and textile
womenswear mill to produce a seasonal manufacturers, the studio has the
Margherita Grassi Les Tissages Perrin
collection of fabric available by the capacity and expertise to conduct
Sally Holditch Mario Cucchetti Tessuti metre. experimental research using new and
Helga Matos x SPINEXPO Mizuda Textile Contact: Juliet Bailey unusual materials.
Email: juliet@dashandmiller.com Contact: Laura Miles
Anya Muangkote Ornek Tekstil
Tel: +44 (0)20 3002 0553 Email: laura@wovenstudiolondon.com
Pallavi Padukone Picchi Spa
Tel: +44 (0)793 053 4721
Srinvanti Roy Recyctex
Nadine Wilde Riopele
Tess Whiting Shandong Ruyi Technology Group
Sympatex
Mills Shibaya
Advance Denim Shinkong Textile
Almodo Textile Stephen Walters & Sons
Cotonificio Albini Taian Desen Woollen Textile
Bark Cloth Tessilidea
Belinac Tessitura Attilio Imperiali
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British Millerain TMG
Brunello Spa Tup Merserize Tekstil
Centro Seta Spa Vanners
Changzhou Xin Dongyuan Textile Co Vegea
Comistra Ventile
Elyaf Tekstil Wujiang Brolin Textile Co, Fabrics China
Fasac Zhejiang Babei Textile Co Ltd
Formosa Taffeta Zhejiang HuaFu Melange Yarn Co Ltd
Gruppocinque
WGSN macro forecast 2023
The timeline for WGSN's suite of 2023 trend reports, moving from business strategy to
consumer and product strategy

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The trend matrix

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