Product Forecast

Men's Textiles Forecast S/S

24: Protect & Connect
Protect & Connect champions the things that protect and
unite us. For men’s textiles, this translates to fabrics that
are comforting and familiar, featuring crafted elements,
worn and crinkled qualities, and crease-free, packable
innovations

Helen Palmer
07.28.22 · 12 minutes

Kaltblut
Introduction
Protect & Connect evolves from our A/W 23/24 forecast trend, Care Culture. It is
driven by a realignment of values, as consumers prioritise products and
experiences that are nourishing and supportive, rather than extractive and
exhausting.

Protect and Connect celebrates the things that bind and support us: people, places,
customs, cultures and communities. It champions the value of interdependence as
well as the power of resilience.
On a functional level, this direction focuses on products that feed our sense of
wellbeing and security. This could take the form of healing and therapeutic designs
that harness the power of colour, light and emotion, as well as more overtly
practical items that are supremely adaptable – think portable, packable designs
that offer preparedness and protection in an unpredictable world, whether that be
for travel, nomadic lifestyles or changeable climates.
On an aesthetic level, Protect & Connect is characterised by designs that are
stripped-back and soulful. Extraneous elements have no place here, but neither
does cold minimalism. Instead, this direction strikes a balance between the two,
combining simple, sinuous and ergonomic forms with soft and natural materials,
comforting textures, and warm, sun-tinged colours.
There is a clear pull towards nostalgia and familiarity in Protect & Connect, but it is
not a backward-looking trend; rather, it is about firmly moving forward to a fast-
changing future by drawing on all that carries us and connects us.
3.Paradis

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Methodolog y
WGSN’s forecasts are guided by our STEPIC methodology, which analyses changes in
society, technology, the environment, politics, industry and creativity. These six
pillars inform the themes covered in our three annual macro forecasts (Future
Drivers, Future Innovations and Big Ideas), which are then filtered down to form the
three seasonal trends for our category-specific forecasts.
Here is how Protect & Connect relates to our broader forecas t themes for
2024:

STEPIC p illars : Society, Politics

Future Dr ivers 2024: The Caring Economy, New Narratives
Future Innovations 2024: Living With Intent, Home-Making, Contemporary
Commons, Cultural Power
Big Ideas 2024: Care-Taking, People-Power Shifts

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Relaxed resort stripes
The concep t: evolve S/S 23's endless summer
stripes with a classic coastal # ModernMariner
mood, evoked by sun-drenched awnings and
deckchairs.
Fibre and yar n: use certified GOTS organic,
BCI, Fair Trade and GRS-certified cottons with a
Tessitura Monti
light and crisp handle. Fine linens and low-
impact lyocell Tencel EcoVero and Livaeco add
comfort and softness.
Cons tr uction and finish: simplicity defines
regular, pinstripe and regatta stripes on light @julianimkephotography Huarte

grounds. Bring variation via textured stripes

and dobby patterns. Anti-UV, stay-dry and
antibacterial benefits add value.
We're highlighting sinuous striped resort shirts
Tat Fung Textile
by Martin Across which evoke the landscapes
of Ecuador and Spain. Other references include
the handcrafted waste garment suits made in
Kenya by Emeka, and Portuguese brand
Huarte's Mediterranean-themed resort stripes.
Relevant for: shirts, tops, jackets, bottoms,
matching sets, soft accessories, loungewear,
sleepwear

Emeka Suits Martin Across Uni Textile Co., Ltd

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Feelgood ombré
The concep t: colour-infused warmth from
autumn/winter evolves into mood-boosting
sunrise hues for S/S 24.
Fibre and yar n: look for certified organic
GOTS, Fair Trade and BCI cottons, natural
hemp, linen and FSC-certified modal, cupro,
Woven Studio
lyocell, EcoVero, Livaeco, Naia Renew and
ahimsa silk.
Cons tr uction and finish: enhance colour-
woven stripes and checks, dobbies and
jacquards in gradient colour. Use low-impact David TIale Egonlab

botanical and food-waste colour for pigment

prints, fade-downs and ombré dip-dyes on
brushed cotton drill, poplin, voile and lawn.
We've cited South African designer David
Astrid Skibsted
Tlale's subtle ombré dipped and printed
designs, as well as the hazy ombré stripe
shirting by Parisian genderless fashion brand
Egonlab, and Indian brand Kardo's hand-
painted shirt with diffused colours.
Relevant for : shirts, separates, jackets,
loungewear, sleepwear, soft accessories

Dash & Miller Kardo Woven Studio

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Homely craft
The concep t: a homecycled, reclaimed
romance sentiment continues into
spring/summer in the form of vintage pyjama-
influenced sleepwear lightweights.
Fibre and yar n: opt for certified smooth or
crêpe cotton. For silky sheen, use FSC-
Ventures
certified viscose, lyocell Tencel, cupro or
ahimsa silk.
Cons tr uction and finish: use superfine poplin
and lawn eyelet, embroidery, and archival
floral designs, reminiscent of the bold-scale, @thisiskardo Ryo Takashima

freehand embroideries found in archival satin

and chain stitches, as well as domestic
tablecloths and bedding sets.
References include the conversational chain
Home Studios
embroideries seen at Japanese brand Ryo
Takashima, and Mankind's pyjama-style
embroidered cotton sets.
Relevant for: shirting, tops, loungewear,
separates, soft accessories

@torinome Mankind Albini Donna

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Artistic culture
The concep t: celebrate craft and champion
the importance of regional local motifs and
cultural diversity, as well as traditional
materials and techniques.
Fibre and yar n: use GOTS-certified, Fair Trade,
BCI or recycled cotton, natural linen, ramie and
Ventures
for a silkier sheen, FSC-certified viscose,
lyocell and ahimsa silk.
Cons tr uction and finish: craft is a big focus in
this direction. Blur colour-woven stripes,
checks, and geometric jacquards and dobbies @elitisfrance Les Benjamins

with painted warps and dip-dyes in micro and

macro scales. Develop extra texture via
stitched quilting, embroideries and block
prints. Work with artisans to co-create pieces
that are made to be cherished. Meghan Spielman

We love Istanbul-based label Les Benjamins'

pattern play, and the ikat resist dyeing
technique used by Kardo for its crafted
handloom cotton shirts.
Relevant for: shirting, jackets, separates,
loungewear, soft accessories

Woven Studio Kardo Dash & Miller

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Vacation casuals
The concep t: evolve the eco narrative of
smartened-up casualwear and relaxed tailoring
with plant-based natural materials and nautical
references.
Fibre and yar n: source GOTS organic, BCI or
GRS recycled cottons, adding RWS/ZQ-verified
Technow S.A.
wool for sturdiness and linen or hemp for
natural durability. Ask for new-generation
cellulosics such as Spinnova lyocell, EcoVero
and Livaeco.
Cons tr uction and finish: source lower-impact @bevza 3.Paradis

outdoor fabrics, considering fibre choice and

compact constructions. Opt for traditional
performance wovens in dense plain weaves,
such as trusted classic performance cottons
from suppliers such as British Millerain, Ventile

Ventile and Halley Stevensons. Bio-based oils

and waxes provide low-impact
weatherproofing.
We're highlighting Japanese brand Kolor,
whose use of neutrals and brights perfectly
sums up this direction.
Relevant for: shirting, bottoms, tailoring,
jackets, soft accessories
British Millerain Kolor dimpora AG

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Thrifted checks
The concep t: mellow domestic-style checks
continue into S/S 24, bringing a homely, mood-
lifting warmth to men's textiles.
Fibre and yar n: fibres should be natural and
ecologically sourced, such as GOTS, BCI and
organic cottons, and linen, silk, lyocell and
Ace & Jig
hemp summer blends.
Cons tr uction and finish: evolve domestic
# cottagecore table-linen fabrics in madras and
ginghams. Rework offcuts as thrifty patching,
or emulate the idea in clever dobby weaves. Dash & Miller Kenzo

Ombré dip-dyes, ikat-style painted warps and

sun-faded hues are married with cooling, easy-
care and sun-proof protection.
Brand mentions include Ace & Jig's bold
Meghan Spielman
handloom weaves and the relaxed checks seen
at Kenzo and Ahluwalia.
Relevant for: shirting, jackets, loungewear,
sleepwear, separates, soft accessories

Ravelry Ahluwalia Woven Studio

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Future classics
The concep t: classic tropical-weight tailoring
is crafted into modern inclusive designs built on
technical innovation, ease of movement and
comfort.
Fibre and yar n: fibres should be natural and
ecologically sourced. Classic suiting in RWS or
Linopersempre
ZQ-certified extra-fine merino virgin wool,
ahimsa silk and responsible cotton and linen
blends work well for a natural hand. Add FSC-
certified viscose and regenerated cellulosic
lyocell for fluid classics. 3.Paradis Erdem

Cons tr uction and finish: use dry-touch and

textured yarns to update Prince of Wales
checks, cotton-and-linen blend plaids and
stripes, and salt-and-pepper plains.
Huaren Linen Co Ltd
We have referenced the timeless simplicity of
Australian resortwear brand Commas, as well
as the spliced tailoring at 3.Paradis, and
Erdem's suiting.
Relevant for: shirting, jackets, separates,
outerwear, soft accessories

@hugo_official Commas Huaren Linen Co Ltd

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Gently lived-in
The concep t: autumn/winter's Soulful
Minimalism trend continues into
spring/summer with pared-down simplicity,
built around non-colours and crinkle textures.
Fibre and yar n: Opt for breathable, moisture-
wicking, cooling properties of super-fine
Fabrica
GOTS, BCI and Fair Trade cotton, relaxed linen,
ramie and lyocell blends. Add low-impact
cooling, antibacterial, anti-UV and easy-care
functions. Undyed fibre slubs, micro marls, and
nep add a texture similar to impasto painting. Lanificio Nova Fides @garconstudio

Cons tr uction and finish: use voile-like shirting

and mid- and outer-weights. Update with micro
slubs, crêpe crinkles, thready weaves and
crumpled laundries. Chalked stripes and
checks emulate cotton and linen bedding. Kipas Casual

We've highlighted Copenhagen's sustainably

focused label Isnurh, which brings
Scandinavian minimalism to craft, and Garçon's
fil-coupe floral overshirt, combining simplicity
with decoration.
Relevant for: shirting, jackets, separates,
loungewear, soft separates

Tess Roby Isnurh Hemp Fortex Industries

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Sensitive silkies
The concep t: luxurious silkies evolve with
diaphanous qualities for sensual next-to-skin
comfort.
Fibre and yar n: make silkies sustainable,
reflecting eco blends. For low-impact luxe,
source FSC cellulosics of viscose, cupro and
Shanghai Skytex
modal, Tencel Luxe and EcoVero, Livaeco, Naia
Renew and ahimsa silk.
Cons tr uction and finish: choose modest
jacquards with matte and shine satin surfaces.
Opt for draped and peached finishes, crepe- Magliano Bianca Saunders

back satins and liquid-look silkies. Embrace

subtle embossing, and matte-and-shine
jacquards in vintage tones.
We've referenced the lightweight silky
Infinity Codice JJMoon
overshirt by Italian brand Magliano, as well as
silky pyjama sets by Bianca Saunders and pure
silk prints by Australian resort brand Commas.
Relevant for: tops, shirts, separates,
loungewear, occasionwear, accessories

Commas Ahluwalia Shanghai Skytex

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Durable naturals
The concep t: practical essentials take on a
more overtly natural character, tapping into
next-generation plant-based fibres for durable,
utilitarian casualwear.
Fibre and yar n: regenerative and circular
agricultural fibre is key. Consider GOTS-
A Grupe Lituanie
certified, Fair Trade and BCI cotton, linen,
ramie and hemp, Circular Systems' Agraloop,
Bananatex, or even nettle fibre for new blends.
Cons tr uction and finish: focus on lower-
impact workwear materials via fibre, Reformed Bad Habits London

construction, finish and eco dyes. Compact

# utility drills, twills and canvases improve in
durability with bio- coatings and proofs.
We're citing London-based brand Bad Habits'
Circular Systems
gender-neutral collection, called Path to
Eruption, made from hemp, organic cotton and
natural dyes. Also look at Weld MFG's hemp
caps, and Emeka's adjustable workwear suits,
which are made in Kenya.
Relevant for : shirting, jackets, outerwear,
bottoms, denim, soft accessories

Weld MFG Emeka Suits Ross Fabrics

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Netting structures
The concep t: the considered craft of string-
work, which we highlighted for S/S 23, evolves
in a coastal direction for S/S 24, with colours
and textures inspired by lobster pots and
fishing nets.
Fibre and yar n: regenerative, vegetal and
SOUL by Fabrica Tessuti
agro-waste fibres such as soil-friendly linen
and hemp, ramie and nettle are key. Use GRS-
certified cotton, and use regenerated nylon or
materials sourced from reclaimed ocean-
bound plastic if using synthetics. Firth of Forth Lobster Hatchery Pardo Hats

Cons tr uction and finish: work handlooms in

macramé and net-like structures, using airy
leno, hopsack and basket-weaves. Add
cordelette or flat tape extra-weft yarns for
reverse jacquards and deflected weaves, and to Deveaux

create heavier stitch-look contrasts.

We've referenced graduate designer Rebecca
Powell whose Trash - Beauty collection
features reclaimed, ocean-bound plastic.
Relevant for : shirts, jackets, tops, bottoms,
soft accessories

Dash & Miller Rebecca Powell Phyllis Lau

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1 234
Action points

Double-down on low-impact Bring tradition and provenance Design fabrics that enhance Use tactility and healing colours
natural fibre sourcing to the fore via purposeful and product versatility and to create relaxed,
covetable materials adaptability feelgood fabrics

Regenerative agriculture practices and Heritage-inspired colours, patterns and Travel, increasingly nomadic lifestyles In a world where we are increasingly
organic farming that supports textures are now starting to gain and flexible working will see the need online, freedom and escapism offer a
biodiversity will be a growing priority. visibility as part of a more diverse and for pieces that can be worn in a variety sense of comfort. Explore summer
Broaden your fibre basket with a range inclusive landscape. Create unique of settings. Add comfort-led function to resort themes, and focus on texture,
of natural materials, including cotton, materials through fair, equitable materials, and promote a garments' pattern, print and colour. Enhance core
linen, hemp, ramie and jute across the partnerships with craftspeople and ability to adapt to many scenarios. qualities with natural functionality via
summer season, as well as low-impact artisans, promoting region-specific Nautical themes are ever present, breathable, sun-protective, cooling and
cellulosic fibres for tactile and durable techniques and patterns that educate while creased and pleated textures give thermoregulating technologies
fabrics with an earth-friendly natural consumers about cultural practises, or materials a sense of movement,
character evoke a sense of place adjustability, lightness and packability
for on-the-move lifestyles

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Industry credits and collaborations
Thanks to the following fabric and Olmetex Dash + Miller Woven Studio
textiles mills and weave design studios, Lutai Textile Co Ltd Dash + Miller specialises in the design, Woven Studio produces a seasonal
which collaborated with WGSN to
Ruentex Industries development and production of woven collection of woven and multi-process
provide sourced seasonal
fabrics for the global fashion and fabric swatches using carefully sourced
developments and exclusive samples Tessitura Monti interiors industries, using experimental yarns and materials. With a broad range
for the S/S 24 forecast reports.
Lanificio Nova Fides yarn, structure, colour and finishing. Its of experience in design development,
portfolio of original samples offers an the studio is fully equipped to work on
Pecci/Expe
Mills inspirational range, complete with projects, ranging from trim and fabric
Rajby Textiles technical information for mill design and development to meterage that is hand-
Advance Denim development. A consultancy service is woven in-house, while also offering
Realteks
Albini Donna also offered for specific projects, industrial production solutions with
Recyctex Co Ltd
including mixed-media designs, screen different weaving mills in the UK and
Agraloop by Circular Systems
Shanghai Skytex prints and hand wovens, and the studio around the world. With extensive
Anthyia collaborates with a high-end UK knowledge of yarn suppliers and textile
Shibaya
Arvind womenswear mill to produce a seasonal manufacturers, the studio has the
SOUL by Fabrica Tessuti
collection of fabric available by the capacity and expertise to conduct
Asliteks
Shinkong Textile metre. experimental research using new and
Bartolini Contact: Juliet Bailey unusual materials.
Stephen Walters & Sons
Bianco Tessuti Email: juliet@dashandmiller.com Contact: Laura Miles
Swing by Gruppocinque
British Millerain Tel: +44 (0)20 3002 0553 Email: laura@wovenstudiolondon.com
Taiana
Tel: +44 (0)793 053 4721
Colora
Tat Fung Textile
Cotonificio Albini
Technow S.A.
Debs Corporation
Teseo
Deveaux
Textil Santanderina
Dimpora
Uni Textile Co Ltd
Ezgi Tekstil
Ventile
Fabrica
Ventures
Ghioldi
WEFT
A. Gratacos
Youngtex
Kazaroglu Tekstil
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A Grupe Lituanie
Additional des igners
Guangzhou Dong-A Industry
Haining Huanyu Warp Knitting Ltd Rosie Green
Hemp Fortex Astrid Kibsted
Huaren Linen Phyllis Lau
Inseta Julia Sabery
JSRTEX Group Meghan Spielman
Kipas
KooJoo Fabric
Linopersempre
WGSN’s forecast reports are created by our global team of experts
Lead forecas ting team Contr ibutors
Helen Palmer, Head of Materials and Textiles APAC
Sara Maggioni, Head of Womenswear Alison Ho, Consumer Researcher
Nick Paget, Senior Strategist, Menswear Lupi Yao, Trend Director, WGSN China
Noah Zagor, Senior Strategist, Menswear Chihiro Kakemoto, Japanese Localisation Lead
Erin Rechner, Head of Kidswear Madoka Okuda-Marshall, Japanese Localisation Editor
Allison Goodfellow-Ash, Strategist, Kidswear Afr ica
Jane Collins, Senior Strategist, Footwear and Accessories Raeesa Brey, Researcher
Gemma Riberti, Head of Interiors Amer icas
Reiko Morrison, Head of CMF, WGSN Consumer Tech Sofia Martellini, Strategist, Youth and Womenswear
Yvonne Kostiak, Senior Strategist, Active Aus tralia and New Zealand
Charlotte Browning, Strategist, Active Yianni Giovanoglou, Client Services Specialist
Hannah Watkins, Head of Prints and Graphics
Graham Krag, Strategist, Prints and Graphics
Charlotte Casey, Senior Strategist, Knitwear
Nicole Ajimal, Strategist, Textiles
Victoria Bulmer, Strategist, Knitwear

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The WGSN trend matrix 2024
Connecting the dots between our STEPIC foundational research, here are the six Future
Drivers, 12 Future Innovations, six Big Ideas and six Forecast trends that will shape the
world in 2024.

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The WGSN macro forecast 2024
The timeline for WGSN's suite of 2024 trend reports, moving from business strategy to
consumer and product strategy.

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