Sizes: XS (S, M, L, 1XL)(2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) to fit bust measurement of:

RIPPLE CROP TOP WORSTED 28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46)(48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62)”
71-76(81-86.5,91.5-96.5,101-106.5,112-117)(122-127,132-137,142-
BY JESSIE MAE MARTINSON of JESSIE MAED DESIGNS
147.5,152.5-157.5)cm
A less fussy, more fitted Ripple Crop knit in DK or worsted weight for Actual measurement of finished garment at bust:
ease. This modern version of a ‘90s classic is a pared down from the
29(33, 37, 41, 45)(49, 53, 57, 61)”
original and will knit up in no time.
73.5(84,94,104,114)(124.5,134.5,145,155)cm

The sizing as noted above provides 1” (2.54cm) of negative to 1” (2.54cm) of

positive ease, depending on your measurements, which results in a
comfortably fitted garment. If you’d like a less fitted version, I suggest either
blocking aggressively or going up a size. For comparison, the original fingering
weight version of the Ripple Crop Top has about 5-7” (12.7-17.8cm) of positive
ease.

Suggested Yarn: Cosy Posy Yarn Co. Squish DK (100% Fine Superwash
Merino, 4-ply, $27.00/250yd.) Colorway used in
sample is unspeckled version of Luna Moth.
For budget friendly yarn options, see notes on Ravelry
pattern page.
Suggested Needles: US 6 – 4.0 mm circular needles (body); double
pointed needles (sleeves) if not using magic loop
Choose a needle circumference that is at least a few
inches shorter than the finished garment
measurement.

Yardage: 275-315(350-405,440-500,480-575,515-645)(635-761,750-
863,900-1092,975-1121)yds
251-288(320-370,402-457,439-526,471-590)(580-696,686-
789,823-998,891-1025)m

Share your project on Instagram using the hashtags If you’d like to add extra length to the top, allow
16(20,24,27,30)(32,34,37,40)yds
#ripplecroptopworsted and #jessiemaed and tagging
[14.6(18.3,21.9,24.7,27.4)(29.25,31.1,33.8,36.6)m per extra
@jessssiemae inch worked.

Ripple Crop Top Worsted v1.3 - Jessie Maed Designs, August 2019 Page 1 of 7
Gauge: 15 sts x 22 rows, 3x3 ribbing in a 4x4” swatch blocked, Abbreviations:
stretched OR unstretched. As long as your fabric stretches to
the required gauge, it will fit. The amount you stretch the BO – bind off
fabric in order to achieve gauge is the amount of stretch the BOR – beginning of round
garment will have across your full bust when worn.
CO – cast on

CSD – centered single decrease. Sl1 st knitwise. Sl another st knitwise. Take tip of left needle and
Materials: DK or worsted weight yarn, stitch markers, removable stitch insert into the two slipped stitches in order to knit them together. Identify the two stitches you
markers, scrap yarn or stitch holders, extra needle for 3-needle bind off, just slipped (one row below.) Take tip of left needle and insert it between the two sts from front
to back, move working yarn to back, and knit that stitch together with the next stitch on your
darning needle to sew in ends needle. For a video tutorial, see link in pattern notes on Ravelry page.

k– knit

k2tog - knit 2 stitches together (right leaning decrease)

Techniques: knitting in the round, ability to read knit and purl stitches,
decreasing, holding stitches, 3-needle bind off, picking up p – purl
stitches along a vertical edge, steam or wet blocking
sl1 – slip one st knitwise with yarn in back

ssk - slip one st knitwise, slip another st knitwise, knit both slipped stitches together through the
Construction: Top is worked from the bottom up to the underarm and then back loop
separated at the front and back and worked flat. Each side of the front is
st - stitch
worked separately through the shoulder, and stitches are held. The back is
worked to the shoulders. Shoulders are seamed together using a 3-needle sts – stitches
bind off. Stitches are picked up for sleeves.
RS - right side

WS - wrong side

Ripple Crop Top Worsted v1.3 - Jessie Maed Designs, August 2019 Page 2 of 7
Before you get started, a few notes: On next round, knit 54(63, --, 78, --)(--, 99, --, 114) sts in pattern. Place marker
to mark the right side seam of the garment. Continue in pattern to BOR.
1) Before beginning, you may want to scan through the pattern and
highlight the portions that are relevant to the size you are working,
since different sizes have different instructions for many of the All Sizes Continue
sections. I also like to cross out sections that are not relevant to the We will now separate for the front and back. From this point forward, the
size I’m working for additional clarity. pattern will be worked flat.
2) Slipped sts are worked knitwise with the yarn in back unless otherwise
specified. Front
3) Work in pattern means that you should knit any knit stitches and purl (Note: for this section, for all rows that begin and end with a knit stitch, you
any purl stitches, such that the establishes ribbing pattern is will slip the first and last sts knitwise with the yarn in back. For all rows that
maintained. begin and end with a purl st, you will purl the first and last sts. This is true
4) I’ve included links to videos for the CSD stitch, 3-needle bind off, picking regardless of whether you are working on the right or wrong side of the
up sleeve stitches along a selvage edge, picking up more than one st garment.)
from a single selvage stitch, and sewing in ends for this design on the
Ravelry pattern page. Sizes XS, L, 1X, 4X, and 5X
Row 1 (RS): Work in pattern from BOR until 3 sts before right side seam
Bottom Hem marker. Place the three stitches that remain on the left needle before the side
CO 108(126, 138, 156, 168)(186, 198, 216, 228) sts using the long-tail cast on. seam marker on a stitch holder. Remove marker. Turn. This marks the end of
Join in the round, making sure not to twist stitches. Place marker for beginning the right side row. 51(--, --, 75, 81)(--, --, 105, 111) sts remain for front.
of round. You may also want to place a removable marker on a stitch on the
RS (the outside) of the fabric, so you can keep track of which side is the inside Sizes S, M, 2X, and 3X
and which side is the outside of the garment. Because of the nature of ribbing, Row 1 (RS): Work in pattern from BOR to right side seam marker. Remove
it can be easy to confuse the front and back side when setting down a project marker. Turn. This marks the end of the right side row. --(63, 69, --, --)(93, 99,
and picking it back up. --, --) sts remain for front.

Sizes M, 1X, 2X, and 4X All sizes continue

Work *k3,p3* ribbing for --(--, 8, --, 9.5)(10.5, --, 12.5, --)” Row 2 (WS): Work in pattern to BOR marker, which marks the end of the WS
[–(--, 20.3, --, 24)(26.5, --, 31.75, --)cm]. row. Turn.
Row 3 (RS): Work in pattern to end of row. Turn.
On next round, knit --(--, 69, --, 84)(93, --, 108, --) sts in pattern. Place marker
to mark the right side seam of the garment. Continue in pattern to BOR. Repeat rows 2 & 3 for 6 rows total (1” or 2.54cm.)

Sizes XS, S, L, 3X, 5X Work row 2 one more time. Turn. You should be looking at the right side
Work *p3,k3* ribbing (note that the round *must* begin with p3) for (outside) of the fabric.
6.5(7.5, --, 8.5, --)(--, 11.5, --, 13.5)” [16.5(19, --, 21.6, --)(--, 29.2, --, 34.3)cm.]
(If you accidentally begin this round with a k3, you can fix it by moving the Sizes XS, S, L, 3X, 5X
beginning of round marker three stitches, such that the round begins with p3. We will now be working two setup rows to mark the middle of the front and
decrease one stitch, so we have an even stitch count on each side.

Ripple Crop Top Worsted v1.3 - Jessie Maed Designs, August 2019 Page 3 of 7
Setup row 1 (RS): P1. Work 23(29, --, 35, --)(--, 47, --, 53) sts in pattern, place There should be --(--, 34, --, 40)(46, --, 52, --) sts on each side of the marker,
marker, p3, place marker. Work in pattern to last st. Turn. and the beginning and end of the row should be a knit column.

Setup row 2 (WS): Sl1. Work in pattern to first marker. Remove marker. The We will now be working the left side of the front. Left side denotes left side
remaining three sts before the next marker should be knit sts. Work a CSD when worn; it’s where your needle and working yarn already are.
across these three sts (1 st decreased.) Remove 2nd marker. Sl 1st st on right
needle purlwise to left needle. Replace marker. Sl st from left needle back onto Left Side Front
right needle without twisting the stitch. Work in pattern to last st, sl1. Turn. [1 Sizes XS, S, L, 3X, 5X
st decreased, 50(62, --, 74,--)(--, 98,--, 110) sts remain for the front] Row 1 (RS): P3. Work in pattern to 5 sts before the middle front marker. K2tog,
k2, sl1. Turn. (1 st decreased)
We should now be looking at the right side (outside) of the fabric, and the Row 2 (WS): P4. Work remaining sts in pattern according to previous row to
front of the garment. The center marker should be situated between two purl last st, sl1. Turn.
sts. This marker will be referred to as the middle front marker in the next row.
Repeat the last two rows a total of 6(12, --, 16, --)(--, 22, --, 22) more times
There should be 25(31, --, 37, --)(--, 49, --, 55) sts on each side of the marker, until 18(18, --, 20, --)(--, 26, --, 32) sts remain, ending with a WS row.
and the beginning and end of the row should be a purl column.
We want final length of this panel since separating for front and back to be
We will now be working the left side of the front. Left side denotes left side 8.5(9, --, 10, --)(--, 11.5, --, 12.5)” [21.6(22.9, --, 25.4, --)(--, 29.2, --,
when worn; it’s where your needle and working yarn already are. 31.75)cm], so repeat the following two rows until this length is met:
(RS): P3. Work in pattern to last st, sl1. Turn.
Continue to section titled “Left Side Front.” (WS): P4, work in pattern to last st, sl1. Turn.

Sizes M, 1X, 2X, and 4X Cut yarn. Place remaining 18(18, --, 20, --)(--, 26, --, 32) sts on holder.
We will now be working two setup rows to mark the middle of the front and Continue to section titled “Right Side Front.”
decrease one stitch, so we have an even stitch count on each side.
Sizes M, 1X, 2X, and 4X
Setup row 1 (RS): Sl1. Work --(--, 32, --, 38)(44, --, 50, --) sts in pattern, place Row 1 (RS): Sl1. Work in pattern to 5 sts before middle front marker. K2tog,
marker, p3, place marker. Work in pattern to last st. Sl1. Turn. k2, sl1. Turn. (1 st decreased)
Row 2 (WS): P4. Work remaining sts in pattern. Turn.
Setup row 2 (WS): P3. Work in pattern to first marker. Remove marker. The
remaining three sts before the next marker should be knit sts. Work a CSD Repeat the last two rows a total of --(--, 15, --, 19)(21, --, 21, --) more times
across these three sts (1 st decreased.) Remove 2nd marker. Sl 1st st on right until --(--, 18, --, 20)(24, --, 30, --) sts remain, ending with a WS row.
needle purlwise to left needle. Replace marker. Sl st from left needle back onto
right needle without twisting the stitch. Work in pattern to last 3 sts, p3. Turn. We want final length of this panel since separating for front and back to be
[1 st decreased, --(--, 68, --, 80)(92, --, 104, --) sts remain for the front] --(--, 9.5, --, 10.5)(11, --, 12, --)” [--(--, 24, --, 26.7)(28, --, 30.5, --)cm], so
repeat the following two rows until this length is met:
We should now be looking at the right side (outside) of the fabric, and the (RS): Sl1. Work in pattern to 4 sts before end of row. K3, sl1. Turn.
front of the garment. The center marker should be situated between two purl (WS): P4, work in pattern to end of row. Turn.
sts. This marker will be referred to as the middle front marker in the next row.
Cut yarn. Place remaining --(--, 18, --, 20)(24, --, 30, --) sts on holder.
Ripple Crop Top Worsted v1.3 - Jessie Maed Designs, August 2019 Page 4 of 7
Right Side Front Back
We will now work the remaining 25(31, 34, 37, 40)(46, 49, 52, 55) front sts. You should have 54(63, 69, 78, 84)(93, 99, 108, 114) sts remaining for the back.

Sizes XS, S, L, 3X, 5X Sizes XS, L, 5X

Row 1 (RS): Sl1, (join yarn) k2, ssk. Work remaining sts in pattern to last 3 sts. Row 1 (RS): Join yarn. P3 and work in pattern to last 3 sts of the row. Place
P3. Turn. (1 st decreased) remaining 3 sts on a holder. Turn. 51(--,--,75, --)(--,--, --, 111) sts remain
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, k2, work in pattern to 4 sts before end of row. P4. Turn. Row 2 (WS): Sl1, work in pattern to last st, sl1. Turn.
Row 3 (RS): P3, work in pattern to last 3 sts, p3. Turn.
Repeat the last two rows a total of 6(12, --, 16, --)(--, 22, --, 22) more times Row 4 (WS): Repeat Row 2.
until 18(18, --, 20, --)(--, 26, --, 32) sts remain, ending with a WS row.
Continue working rows 3 & 4 until back panel measures 8.5(--,--,10,--)(--,--,--
We want final length of this panel since separating for front and back to be ,12.5)” [21.6(--, --, 25.4, --)(--, --, --, 31.75)cm from armhole, ending with a WS
8.5(9, --, 10, --)(--, 11.5, --, 12.5)” [21.6(22.9, --, 25.4, --)(--, 29.2,--, 31.75)cm], row. Do not cut yarn. Continue to section titled “Joining the shoulders.”
so repeat the following two rows until this length is met:
(RS): Sl1, k3. Work remaining sts in pattern to last 3 sts. P3. Turn. Sizes 1X and 4X
(WS): Sl1, k2, work in pattern to 4 sts before end of row. P4. Turn. Row 1 (RS): Sl1. Join yarn and work in pattern to last 4 sts of the row. Sl1. Place
remaining 3 sts on a holder. Turn. --(--,--,--, 81)(--,--, 105, --) sts remain
Cut yarn. Place remaining 18(18, --, 20, --)(--, 26, --, 32) sts on holder. Row 2 (WS): P3, work in pattern to last 3 sts, p3. Turn.
Continue to section titled “Back.” Row 3 (RS): Sl1, work in pattern to last st, sl1. Turn.
Row 4 (WS): Repeat row 2.
Sizes M, 1X, 2X, and 4X
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, (join yarn) k2, ssk. Work remaining sts in pattern to last st. Sl1. Continue working rows 3 & 4 until back panel measures -- (--, --, --, 10.5)(--, --
Turn. (1 st decreased) , 12, --)” [--(--, --, --, 26.7)(--, --, 30.5,--)cm] from armhole, ending with a WS
Row 2 (WS): P3, work in pattern to 4 sts before end of row, p4. Turn. row. Do not cut yarn. Continue to section titled “Joining the shoulders.”

Repeat the last two rows a total of --(--, 15, --, 19)(21, --, 21, --) more times Sizes S and 3X
until --(--, 18, --, 20)(24, --, 30, --) sts remain, ending with a WS row. Row 1 (RS): Join yarn. Sl1, work in pattern to last st, sl1. Turn. –(63,--,--,--)(--
,99,--,--) sts remain.
We want final length of this panel since separating for front and back to be Row 2 (WS): P3, work in pattern to last 3 sts, p3. Turn.
--(--, 9.5, --, 10.5)(11, --,12, --)”[--(--, 24, --, 26.7)(28, --, 30.5, --)cm], so repeat Row 3 (RS): Sl1, work in pattern to last st, sl1. Turn.
the following two rows until this length is met: Row 4 (WS): Repeat row 2.
(RS): Sl1, k3, work in pattern to last st. Sl1. Turn.
(WS): P3, work in pattern to 4 sts before end of row. P4. Turn. Continue working rows 3 & 4 until back panel measures
--(9, --, --, --)(--, 11.5, --, --)” [--(22.9, --, --, --)(--, 29.2, --, --)cm] from armhole,
Cut yarn. Place remaining --(--, 18, --, 20)(24, --, 30, --) sts on holder. ending with a WS row. Do not cut yarn. Continue to section titled “Joining the
shoulders.”

Ripple Crop Top Worsted v1.3 - Jessie Maed Designs, August 2019 Page 5 of 7
Sizes M and 2X Sizes XS, S, M, L, 2X, 3X, 5X
Row 1 (RS): Join Yarn. P3, work in pattern to last 3 sts, p3. –(--,69,--,--)(93,--,-- First round: *k3,p3* to end of round.
,--) sts remain.
Row 2 (WS) Sl1, work in pattern to last st, sl1. Turn. Sizes 1X and 4X
Row 3 (RS): P3, work in pattern to last 3 sts, p3. Turn. First Round: *p3,k3* to end of round.
Row 4 (WS): Repeat row 2.
All Sizes Continue
Continue working rows 3 & 4 until back panel measures Remaining rounds: Continue working ribbing in the round according to the
–(--, 9.5, --, --)(11, --, --, --)” [--(--, 24, --, --)(--, 29.2, --, --)cm] from armhole, pattern established in the first round until total sleeve length measures
ending with a WS row. Do not cut yarn. 4.5(4.5, 4.5, 4.5, 4.5)(4.5, 5, 5, 5.5)” [11.4(11.4, 11.4, 11.4, 11.4)(11.4, 12.7,
12.7, 14)cm].
Joining the shoulders
Turn garment inside out such that right sides are facing. We will now seam Bind off in pattern.
together the shoulders and bind off the back neck using a 3-needle bind off.
For video on how to work the 3-needle bind off, see link on pattern page. Finishing
Try your garment on! If you’re happy with the fit, lightly steam block. If you’d
Place the 18(18, 18, 20, 20)(24, 26, 30, 32) sts you held for each front shoulder like a bit more space, gently wet block it. To retain spring in the ribbing, take
on a needle to be worked. Use a 3-needle bind off to join the back to the front care not to stretch the garment too aggressively while blocking.
while binding off 18(18, 18, 20, 20)( 24, 26, 30, 32) sts.
Sharing
We will now bind off sts for the neck. If you are working a smaller size (in My absolute favorite part of designing is seeing what you make, so please
particular the sizes XS and S) and would like a more open neckline, feel free to don’t be shy about sharing on Ravelry and Instagram.
use a stretchy bind off here. BO the next 15(28, 34, 35, 42)(46, 48, 49, 47) sts
in pattern. Transfer the one st leftover on your right needle to your left needle Use the hashtags #ripplecroptopworsted and #jessiemaed, and tag me,
without twisting the st. @jessssiemae, so I can see your progress and all of your beautiful finished
projects.
There should now be 18(18, 18, 20, 20)( 24, 26, 30, 32) sts remaining. Use a 3-
needle bind off to bind off and join the remaining 18(18, 18, 20, 20)(24, 26, Pattern Support
30, 32) sts for the front and back together. Right shoulder seaming complete. Please direct all pattern support queries to jessiemaeddesigns@gmail.com.
Contacting me via email will ensure the quickest turnaround time in the
Sleeves event that you require assistance.
Make sure your garment is no longer inside out before beginning this section.
Note also that going forward, I will no longer be offering pattern support on
Sizes XS, L, 1X, 4X, and 5X only Instagram. I appreciate your patience and understanding with this as I try to
Place the 3 held underarm sts back on needle. achieve a better work/life balance by transitioning all of my pattern support
to one place. I am confident that doing so will result in higher quality and
All Sizes Continue more efficient pattern support for everyone who knits my patterns.
Pick up 57(60, 66, 63, 69)(72, 78, 75, 75) sts from vertical edge of arm for a
total of 60(60, 66, 66, 72)(72, 78, 78, 78) sts for the sleeve. Place marker for
BOR.
Ripple Crop Top Worsted v1.3 - Jessie Maed Designs, August 2019 Page 6 of 7
 SCHEMATIC

XS S M L 1X 2X 3X 4X 5X
A
28.75” 33.5” 36.75” 41.5” 44.75” 49.5” 52.75” 57.5” 60.75”
Bust
73cm 85cm 93cm 105cm 114cm 126cm 134cm 146cm 154cm
Circ.
B
6.5” 7.5” 8” 8.5” 9.5” 10.5” 11.5” 12.5” 13.5”
Body
16.5cm 19cm 20cm 22cm 24cm 26.5cm 29cm 32cm 34cm
Length
C 8.5” 9” 9.5” 10” 10.5” 11” 11.5” 12” 12.5”
Armhole
21.5cm 23cm 24cm 25.4cm 26.5cm 28cm 29cm 30.5cm 32cm
Depth
D
4.5” 4.5” 4.5” 4.5” 4.5” 4.5” 5” 5” 5.5”
Sleeve
11.4cm 11.4cm 11.4cm 11.4cm 11.4cm 11.4cm 12.7cm 12.7cm 14cm
Length
E
7.5” 8” 8.5” 9” 9.5” 10” 10.5” 11” 11.5”
V-Neck
19cm 20cm 21.5cm 23cm 24cm 25.4cm 26.5cm 28cm 29cm
Depth
F
15” 16.5” 17.5” 18.5” 20” 21.5” 23” 24.5” 26”
Total
38cm 42cm 44.5cm 47cm 51cm 54.5cm 58.5cm 62cm 66cm
Length

DISCLAIMER: I am happy to allow small scale personal commission hand

knitting of my designs, but you may not reproduce this pattern or
commercially manufacture any garment made from it. Thank you in advance
for respecting my labor and intellectual property.
Ⓒ JESSIE MAE MARTINSON, 2019

Ripple Crop Top Worsted v1.3 - Jessie Maed Designs, August 2019 Page 7 of 7