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    garment-old-dye-solutions

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    #innovative

    #creative
    #responsible

    Old dye solutions


    Dyeing with BEZAPRINT pigments and
    BEMAPLEX/BEMACID dyes on cellulosic garments
    Product overview

    Cationising agents

    A precationisation provides for the affinity of the dye to the fibre and maintains the dye at the
    fabric surface, which is the basic condition for the desired “wash-out“ effect. These precationisation
    agents are generally applied before dyeing with pigments or metal complex dyes. The challenges
    which have to be fulfilled are bath exhaust, levelness, colour brilliance and fastness properties. A
    cationic aftertreatment can enhance the fastness properties further.

    DENIMCOL FIX-OS DENIMCOL FIX-FSN


    Function Precationisation Cationic aftertreatment

    DENIMCOL FIX-OS is a cationic DENIMCOL FIX-FSN is applied as


    polymer containing reactive groups cationic aftertreatment on the dyed
    similar to those of a reactive dye. garments. This procedure fixes the
    Description
    DENIMCOL FIX-OS can thus be fixed dyes on the fabric and leads to
    on the fabric. improved washing fastness.

    Application
    2.0 – 6.0 % 2.0 – 4.0 %
    quantity:

    After short pre-running phase: Without pH adjustment


    Application
    addition of 2-3 ml/l NaOH (38°Bé) for
    parameter:
    fixation on the fibre

    1
    Binder

    Binders are applied after pigment-dyeing of precationised garments. Here the binder helps to
    further improve the link between the pigment and the substrate. The fixation of the dyes on the
    surface of the yarn by the binder help to improve dry and wet rubbing fastness, as well as the
    stability of the dyeing in home laundry washing cycles.

    DENIMCOL BINDER GF-C is a soft anionic polymer binder based on acrylate. Drying and fixation in
    tumble dryer at 90 - 100°C. Particularly soft handle and improved bath exhaust.

    Other dyeing auxiliaries

    The dyeing procedures enclose a selection of further chemical auxiliaries. These products are
    included in the recipe to keep the results of the dyeing process consistent.

    DENIMCOL LUB-BPA is a lubricant to improve the gliding of the garments to reduce creases and
    friction. This effect helps to receive level dyeings. DENIMCOL CDS is an auxiliary to reduce the
    foam inside the drum and accelerate the penetration of liquor into the fabric. DENIMCOL DIS-OL
    is a dispersion agent with excellent dispersing properties to dyestuffs and pigments.

    2
    Dyeing with Pigment dyes

    Besides the unique look of pigment dyed garments these pigments can also be used in special
    effect applications with binders, in spray application or artisanal application methods.

    2 bath precationisation and dyeing

    70

    C
    60

    50
    Temperature [°C]

    40

    30
    A B
    20

    10

    0
    0 20 40 60 80 100 120
    Time [min]

    B: Dyeing
    Liquor ratio 1:8 - 1:10
    0.5 – 1.5 g/l DENIMCOL DIS-OL
    0.1 – 0.5 g/l DENIMCOL CDS
    A: Precationisation x % BEZAPRINT pigments
    3.5 – 6.0 % DENIMCOL FIX-OS 20 – 40 min at 60 °C
    1.0 – 2.0 g/l DENIMCOL LUB-BPA
    After short running, add: C: Fixation in the same or in the fresh bath
    2.5 ml/l NaOH (38 °Bé) 3.0 – 5.0 % DENIMCOL BINDER GF-C
    20 min at 40 °C 15 min at 60°C
    rinse and neutralise hydroextract
    dry in tumbler at 90 - 100 °C

    The main elements for garment dyeing:


    BEZAPRINT Yellow 3GT BEZAPRINT Blue TB BEZAPRINT Black DW
    BEZAPRINT Violet FB BEZAPRINT Grey BB BEZAPRINT Red KGC
    BEZAPRINT Green BT BEZAPRINT Red SGR BEZAPRINT Navy TR
    BEZAPRINT Yellow RR BEZAPRINT Blue RR
    More pigments and fluorescent pigments are available.

    3
    Dyeing with BEMAPLEX / BEMACID
    dyes
    DENIMCOL FIX-OS is the best selection for cationising the substrate for a metal complex dyeing
    finish. As the anionic metal complex and acid dyes don’t have natural affinity to cellulosic fibres,
    the selection of an optimum precationiser is important as a bridge between the cellulosic fibre
    and the dye. DENIMCOL FIX-OS binds the dyes effectively to the surface of the substrate, so that a
    subsequent enzyme wash can create the strongest abrasion effects.

    2 bath precationisation, dyeing with wash-out effect

    70
    C
    60

    50
    Temperature [°C]

    40

    30
    A B
    20

    10

    0
    0 20 40 60 80 100
    Time [min]

    Liquor ratio: 1:8 - 1:10

    A: Precationisation Optional: Depending on fabric and desired


    2.0 – 4.0 % DENIMCOL FIX-OS effect, a stonewash or biopolish treatment can
    1.0 – 2.0 g/l DENIMCOL LUB-BPA increase the wash-out look of the garment.
    After short running, add:
    2.5 ml/l NaOH (38 °Bé) Biopolish or Stonewash (LR 1:8)
    20 min at 40 °C 1.0 % BEIZYM SPELL-G
    Rinse and neutralise 20 min at 40 °C
    B: Dyeing Rinse (dry)
    X % BEMAPLEX / BEMACID
    Optional: A cationic aftertreatment will
    dyes
    improve the fixation of the dyes on the fabric
    Heat from 25 °C to 60 °C
    and will lead to better washing fastness.
    in 20-30 min
    10 min at 80°C Cationic aftertreatment
    3.0 % DENIMCOL FIX-FSN
    C: x g/l Sodium chloride*
    pH 5-6 with acetic acid
    (portion wise)
    20 min at 40 °C
    10-20 min at 80 °C
    Dry
    Rinse

    *Salt concentration
    Dyes (%) < 0.5 0.5-1.0 1.0-1.5 > 1.5
    Salt (g/l) 10.0 15.0 20.0 30.0

    4
    Fastnesses

    The resulting fastness properties are strongly dependent on the material used and the process
    employed, in particular the enzymatic washing. The indicated fastness properties should therefore
    only be seen as guide values. All fastness properties should only be tested and evaluated at the
    end of all process stages.

    Dyestuff elements Conc. Fastness to Fastness to Fastness to washing 40°C


    % light (ISO 105- rubbing (ISO 105-X12) (ISO 105-C06/A1S)
    B02)
    dry wet CC CO PES
    BEMAPLEX Yellow N-RN 2.00 3-4 4 2 3-4 3-4 3-4
    BEMAPLEX Yellow M-T 01 1.70 4-5 4-5 2 4 4 4-5
    BEMAPLEX Yellow D-4R 1.40 6 5 3 3-4 4 4-5
    BEMAPLEX Orange D-R 2.40 4 4-5 3 3 4 5
    BEMAPLEX Red M-T 1.20 3-4 5 2 3-4 4 4-5
    BEMACID Blue F-2R 2.20 3 4-5 3-4 3-4 3-4 4-5
    BEMAPLEX Navy D-RD 2.10 5 4-5 2 4 3-4 4
    BEMAPLEX Olive D-GL 2.00 4-5 5 2-3 4 3-4 3-4
    BEMAPLEX Brown D-BD 1.70 4 5 3 3-4 3-4 4
    BEMAPLEX Grey N-BL 2.20 6-7 4 2 3-4 3-4 4
    BEMAPLEX Black D-R 3.00 6-7 4 1-2 3-4 3-4 4

    5
    Version 01 EN – 01/24 – Subject to change without notice.

    LAB102
    by CHT Germany GmbH
    Bismarckstr. 102
    72072 Tübingen • Germany

    +49 7071 154-0


    LAB102@cht.com

    www.lab-102.com

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