KIABI-finished-product-labtest-process-and-specifications
KIABI-finished-product-labtest-process-and-specifications
PROCESS AND
SPECIFICATIONS
OBJECTIF DU DOCUMENT
The purpose of this instruction is to define labtest process, finished product labtest specifications for
physical , chemical tests and laboratory self declaration accreditation process.
PURPOSE
1. GENERAL REMARKS .............................................................................................................. 3
1.1 Supplier commitments ............................................................................................................ 3
1.2 Material testing ....................................................................................................................... 3
1.3 Garment Testing rules ............................................................................................................ 3
1.4 Web orders ............................................................................................................................. 4
1.5 Tests report ............................................................................................................................ 4
1.6 Tests invoice from nominated lab ........................................................................................... 4
1
CONFIDENTIAL - F01 Property of KIABI reproduction and distribution forbidden
FINISHED PRODUCT LABTESTS PROCESS Identification Date
AND SPECIFICATIONS P500.1 2020 Jul 03
5. ZIPPERS ................................................................................................................................. 14
1. GENERAL REMARKS
1.1 Supplier commitments
Suppliers commit themselves:
- To implement all the necessary means to guarantee that the production is meeting Kiabi
requirement.
- To use validated lab test result, particularly for composition and care instructions, in order to precise
compliant information on care label.
- To inform Kiabi BEFORE order, of any potential risk by using specific fabrics/trims/production
process not able to reach Kiabi requirements.
- If any failure of this instructions, or tests are not performed or do not meet Kiabi requirements, the
order can be cancelled.
For SD Labtest suppliers, Kiabi accept to receive these reports from supplier internal laboratories.
If no SD Labtest, supplier need to review with the mills to receive needed labtest report from them.
Labtest reports need to be sent to Kiabi merchandising team for 1st order / season / color.
If product concerns Kiabi nominated fabric, no need to send labtest report to Kiabi on fabric stage.
Anyway, composition test needs to be done at this stage in external Kiabi nominated laboratory.
ON WHAT?: Test to be sent to Kiabi must be performed on finished product top of production
samples (TOPs) assembled with bulk materials and production trims by production machine (not
from sample room or other).
FREQUENCY?: Labtest report is in force for 1 season and respect following rules:
- 1st production lot:
Test need to be done in 3rd part lab.
Labtest need to be performed according full applicable test list (physical and chemical). Appearance
after wash, color fastnesses and chemical tests related to dyes will be performed on all colors.
Styles with same colors coming from the same fabric mill, Kiabi accept to have 1 labtest for all styles
for each concerned colors for appearance and chemical tests link to dying.
- Repeat orders:
A 4 weeks window on shipment date is consider as same batch of production. During this time, no
need to provide new labtest reports.
If supplier is not SD, If it is the same production batch number, no need to retest after 4 weeks as
the batch has been already tested.
If shipment overpassing this window, supplier need to provide for each shipment:
Appearance after wash tests
Pulling test if applicable for babies orders
For SD suppliers, Kiabi accept to receive labtest reports from supplier internal laboratory.
For other supplier, labtests need to be done in external Kiabi nominated laboratory.
CONFIDENTIAL - F01 Property of KIABI reproduction and distribution forbidden
3
FINISHED PRODUCT LABTESTS PROCESS Identification Date
AND SPECIFICATIONS P500.1 2020 Jul 03
TESTED SAMPLE ARCHIVED?: Tested samples shall be retained by the laboratory, one year.
IF FAIL RESULT?: any new submission needs to be done after corrective action plan. This CAP is
compulsory shared with Kiabi Asia / service providers technical services for agreement.
Supplier commit on consistency of quality on shipments. if fail tests are detected after delivery, Kiabi
reserve the right to remove the goods from shops to jobber at supplier expense. Supplier will ask 3rd
part sample pick up for 1 season at his expense and work on root cause for quick improvements.
2. PROCESS FLOW
Test and report LAB / SUPPLIER Lab or supplier apply the last
version of the concerned
standard
Results OK ?
Continue SUPPLIER
Production
ISO 12945-1
All textile items - Sweaters / Jumpers / Heavy knit ≥ 3
ISO 12945-2
Pilling Knit: ICI 3 hours Light knit / polo: ≥ 3-4
After 1
wash
Woven: Martindale 2000c - Woven / woolen, fake woolen items: ≥ 3-4
AATCC93
Peel loss Items with fake fur Weight loss < 12%
3000c 3min
Find under criteria’s of general appearance after wash to be noticed in labtest report:
- Fabric:
Fraying of fabric and trims
Material fuzzing aspects
- Trims
Detachment
Corrosion or damage
Delamination of fused components
Zipper / button / snap quality
Differential shrinkage on components / parts that can cause wrinkling or puckering.
Padding conformity
- Seam:
Grinning/ unravelling / breaks
opening seam
This list is not exhaustive, any other noticeable change needs to be precised.
- Measure the distance “ D ” (to nearest 1 mm) from the natural dried fold on the fabric square to the
inner edge of the seam for top items (see diagram).
For pants items, measure the distance “ D ” from the natural dried fold and the inside leg seam.
On garments these measurements are made at the hem.
General appearance, Spirality, Dimensional stability and color fastnesses will be performed
after 1, 3 , 5, 10, 15, 20 washes steps.
Results will be expressed on each steps.
Test methods and specifications will follow appearance after wash requirements. Drying will be done
only
before washes steps
If Woven
Color Fastness to ISO 105 E04 All Babies textile products ≥ 3/4
perspiration
Color Fastness to saliva GB T 18886 All Babies textile products ≥4
Babies Article except sleeping
Pulling test on small bags with trims that can come ≥ 50 N < 6 mm
EN 71.1 off (snaps, buttons,
parts ≥ 70 N > 6 mm
accessories..)
AATCC93 Babies Items with Sherpa
Peel loss Sherpa fabric: Weight loss < 6%
3000c / 3min fabric
If bunting bags
CF to washing: ≥3-4
ISO 6330
Color degradation: ≥4
Appearance after 3 ISO 5077
Beach towels with licence No defects
washes ISO 3759
If Jacket / Coats
If Socks
French decree
Leather type 2010-29
All items with leather Precise leather type and animal
Thickness material
Top: test on front, back,
sleeves ISO 2589 All items with leather +/- 1 mm
Bottom:: test on front,
back
Color Fastness To water ISO 11642 All items with leather ≥3
- Dry: ≥ 3 after 50 cycles
Color fastness to dry / EN 11640 All items with leather
wet rubbing - Wet: ≥ 2-3 20 cycles
ISO 105 B02
Color Fastness To light All items with leather ≥3-4
Grade 4 – 48h
Shoes
ISO 3287
Wet Outsole slip All shoes except heel part for 0.40 baby child
surface : clay women high heel shoe 0.30 adult
resistance tile
CF to Water ISO 105 E01 leather and textile outside fabric change/staining 3/4
CF to acid or alkali ISO 105 E04 insole and lining change/staining 3/4
perspiration
French decree identify leather
Leather identification 2010-29
Leather footwear
type and animal
Babies footwear snaps, buttons,
Physical and ≥50N (<6mm)
EN 71-1 accessories which can come off
mechanical tests ≥70N (>6mm)
the garments
BS 3084
Zipper performance Annex F
Shoes with zipper > 500 cycles no damage
Sunglass
5. ZIPPERS
All zippers need to respect following requirements, one time per year per supplier per zipper style. GLM004
Full list EN 16732 All textile articles with zippers Cf below charts
Performance code
Products
A B C D E
Dress
Knits
Leather goods
bra
bags
Bunting bag
shoe
Ski suit
Kids apparels
Code de performance
Test list Unity
A B C D E
Strength of Puller Attachment (min. ) N 70 80 200 250 300
Closed-End Test (min. ) N 35 60 80 100 140
Top-Stop Test (min. ) N 50 70 90 110 130
Strength Of Open-End Fastener Box (min. ) N 40 70 90 120 150
Resistance To Reciprocation : cycles without failure. Cycles >500
Lateral Strength Test (min. ) N 150 200 250 370 470
Lateral Strength Of Open-End Attachment Test (min. ) N 40 70 90 120 160
Slider Locking Test (min. ) N 10 12 25 40 60
Specs
Test list Unity
(min)
Single Strength Slider Retention Test N 70
Torque Strength N.m 0,34
Chemical tests:
These tests need to be applied on all parts of the zipper (teeth, slider, ribbon...)
Chemical tests will be performed by material as specified in Kiabi control plan chapter 6.3.
6. CHEMICAL SPECIFICATIONS
According to Kiabi Purchase contracts, supplier need to respect and be updated on regulation in force for
all Kiabi selling countries (Reach and others…). Please note that Kiabi will proceed random chemical
testing during production or after delivery in stores to audit chemical specification conformity.
In the hypothesis where the test reveals the presence of forbidden amines, every colour will be retested
to determine which contains azo dyes.
APEO :
APEOs can be used as or found in detergents, scouring agents, spinning oils, wetting agents,
softeners, emulsifying/dispersing agents for dyes and prints, impregnating agents, de-gumming for
silk production, dyes and pigment preparations, polyester padding and down/feather fillings. APs are
used as intermediaries in the manufacture of APEOs and antioxidants used to protect or stabilize
polymers. Biodegradation of APEOs into APs is the main source of APs in the environment. APEOs
and formulations containing APEOs are prohibited from use throughout supply chain and
manufacturing processes.
FORMALDEHYDE
Used in textiles as an anti-creasing and anti-shrinking agent. It is also often used in polymeric resins.
DMFu
DMFu is an anti-mold agent used in sachets in packaging to prevent the buildup of mold, especially
during shipping.
CHLORINATED PARAFFINS
May be used as softeners, flame retardants, or fat-liquoring agents in leather production; also as a
plasticizer in polymer production.
PHTALATES
Esters of ortho-phthalic acid (Phthalates) are a class of organic compound commonly added to
plastics to increase flexibility. They are sometimes used to facilitate the moulding of plastic by
decreasing its melting temperature. Phthalates can be found in: • Flexible plastic components (e.g.,
PVC) • Print pastes • Adhesives • Plastic buttons • Plastic sleevings • Polymeric coatings The listed
Phthalates are those most commonly used and regulated across industry sectors.
PAHs
PAHs are natural components of crude oil and are common residues from oil refining. PAHs have a
characteristic smell similar to that of car tires or asphalt. Oil residues containing PAHs are added to
rubber and plastics as a softener or extender and may be found in rubber, plastics, lacquers and
coatings. PAHs are often found in the outsoles of footwear and in printing pastes for screen prints.
PAHs can be present as impurities in Carbon Black. They also may be formed from thermal
decomposition of recycled materials during reprocessing
CADMIUM
Cadmium compounds are used as pigments (especially in red, orange, yellow and green); as a
stabilizer for PVC; and in fertilizers, biocides, and paints.
LEAD
May be associated with plastics, paints, inks, pigments and surface coatings.
NICKEL
Nickel and its compounds can be used for plating alloys and improving corrosion-resistance and
hardness of alloys. They can also occur as impurities in pigments and alloys.
CHROMIUM VI
Though typically associated with leather tanning,
UV ABSORBERS / STABILIZERS
PU foam materials such as open cell foams for padding. Used as UV-absorbers for plastics (PVC,
PET, PC, PA, ABS, and other polymers), rubber, polyurethane.
FLAME RETARDANT
QUINOLINE
Found as an impurity in polyester and some dyestuffs.
VOC
These VOCs should not be used in textile auxiliary chemical preparations. They are also associated
with solvent-based processes such as solvent-based polyurethane coatings and glues/adhesives.
100-41-4 Ethylbenzene
76-01-7 Pentachloroethane For general VOC screening:
630-20-6 1,1,1,2- Tetrachloroethane GC/MS headspace 45
79-34-5 1,1,2,2- Tetrachloroethane minutes at 120 degrees C
127-18-4 Tetrachloroethylene (PERC)
108-88-3 Toluene
71-55-6 1,1,1- Trichloroethane
79-00-5 1,1,2- Trichloroethane
79-01-6 Trichloroethylene
1330-20-7
108-38-3
Xylenes (meta-, ortho-, para-)
95-47-6
106-42-3
ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS
Class of chemicals combining tin and organics such as butyl and phenyl groups. Organotins are
predominantly found in the environment as antifoulants in marine paints, but they can also be used
as biocides (e.g., antibacterials), catalysts in plastic and glue production, and heat stabilizers in
plastics/rubber. In textiles and apparel, organotins are associated with plastics/rubber, inks, paints,
metallic glitter, polyurethane products and heat transfer material.
CHLOROBENZENE / CHLOROTOLUENE
1 Red indicates that a chemical has been in widespread use and/or frequently detected in a particular material.
2 Orange indicates that a chemical has been deliberately used and/or detected in a particular material occasionally.
3 Yellow indicates there is a very low but theoretical chance that a chemical could be used and/or detected.
White indicates that we believe there is an almost negligible risk of a chemical being used and/or detected.
Natural leather
Blended fibers
Natural fibers
backing
Rubber
Metal
AZO DYES 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
DISPERSE DYES 2 2 2 2
APEO 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 3
FORMALDEHYDE 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
DIMETHYLFUMARATE (DMFU) 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
DIMETHYLFORMAMIDE (DMFA) 2 2
SCCP 3 3 3 3 1 3 2
PHTALATES 1 1 1
PAHs 1 1 1
CADMIUM 3 3 3 3
LEAD 3 3 3 3
NICKEL 1
CHROMIUM VI 3 1
OTHER HEAVY METALS 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
FLAME RETARDANT 3 (if finishing is applied)
REPELLANT / WATERPROOF CHEMICALS 2 (if water or stain repellant finish is applied)
VOC 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
If Plastics,
If Coating/
Test If Dyed Fabric If Leather
Printing
Rubber, If Metal If Glue If cardbox gift Test by color? Mix possibility
Foam
pH Every products (part with skin contact) except jewells YES No mix
Phthalates ✓ ✓ NO
3 parts homogeneous
material
PAHS ✓ ✓ ✓ NO
3 parts homogeneous
material
✓
According
Heavy metals NO No mix
European
Directive
94/62/CE
✓ =labtest required before shipment
Specificity by product:
Cardboard gift box: heavy metals tests required according EU 94/62/CE
Sleeping bags / Cot bumpers: refer to DOCQ16 and DOCQ18 for chemical test list and follow Kiabi RSL specification.
- Process: scope of certificate need to precise all concerned production process using chemical.
Example: Dying – Finishing (prints, washing…) – Trims (zipper, buttons, sequins…)
In that case, supplier will be exempted to perform chemical test according Kiabi control plan.
Oeko tex certificate must be send to Procurement cell in Charge for archive.
The objective of KIABI SD lab Certification Program is to maintain a base of supplier in-house laboratory
that is capable of accurately measuring and reporting the performance quality of KIABI product.
It is to ensure that all product testing performance is on behalf of KIABI that could meet the latest edition of
KIABI Testing Requirements in terms of :
• Accurateness
• Standardization
• Quality Consistency
• Increasing Flexibility
Advantages of having an approved in-house lab is to be able to increase the testing capacity and
to decrease the testing time (no longer need to wait for third party lab availability or publication of
results), which is both more practical and economic and also leads to a better control over
production quality and consistency.
Finally, a good running internal lab will further the bond between KIABI and its supplier increasing
their partnership.
Once the supplier receives the accreditation he is considered as a Kiabi Self-Declaration labtest
approved supplier.
KIABI will be the one to initiate the accreditation process, without an invitation the supplier will not be
able to apply. All the fees of the accreditation will be paid by the supplier.
Certificate:
The KIABI certificate will be issued once only and if supplier fulfils all the stages requirements of the
accreditation process. The valid period of KIABI Certificates is 12 months. On it will be clearly written:
• Address of accredited laboratory, Name of accredited technician and Accredited test items
• Level of accreditation (bronze, silver or gold)
• Certificate issued Date and Expired Date
• Signatures of both KIABI and 3rd part lab Representatives
Renewal of certification is at the end of the 12th month issued certificate period. Minimum entry
requirements must always be met, however, changes to the technician and/or the tests listed on
the application may be made at the time of renewal. A reminder that the certification is up for
renewal and renewal forms will be sent to each accredited in-house laboratory 3 months prior to the
year anniversary of the certification for a new 12 month renewal.
Control:
Correlation test will be performed by 3rd part lab for new accreditation or renewal.
A regular audit will be monitored by our technicians : at least once a year. During this audit, a special
care must be given to the calibration of the machines used in the laboratory. One should be run at
least once a year.*
No
Passed correlation Recommending attempt re-test
Yes
the accrediting entity issues the on-site auditing & Yes
Passed
correlation test reports to KIABI within 2 weeks
? No
STA
GE
5:
Unsuccessful attempt
KIABI makes the final approval & to notify the
Fina KIABI supplier in-house laboratory
applicant for the successful attempt l certification program is to be
app terminated. the accrediting entity
rov gives a letter of explanation to
al KIABI and applicant.
CONFIDENTIAL - F01 Property of KIABI reproduction and distribution forbidden
28
FINISHED PRODUCT LABTESTS PROCESS Identification Date
AND SPECIFICATIONS P500.1 2020 Jul 03
The specimens for correlation will be prepared by both applicant and the 3rd part lab. The specimen selected
at the factory must be sent to the 3rd part lab representative for process. The 1st correlation test cost is
included in the package price. A correlation test report will be issued.
For renewal, correlation tests are not automatically included in renewal of accreditation process. Correlation
tests can be added under Kiabi request according audits results or previous situation established by Kiabi
technicians
•Three apparels or fabrics, in different fabrications and colours (a light weight, medium weight, heavy weight and stretchable fabrics shall be
included as possible), with sufficient amount of test samples
Samples to •Dark and medium shades must be used for correlation exercise
be tested
•The tests realised by both the applicant an the accrediting entity will be determined by the scope of testing covered under the accreditation
application
•The tests shall be completed with-in ten (10) working days and the test results and test specimens from KIABI’s laboratory will be sent to
Testing accrediting entity upon completion. The results will also be sent from the applicant to the accrediting entity
•The accrediting entity will review the test specimens and test results statistically to evaluate the performance of each test conducted by KIABI
•The accrediting entity will identify and provide solutions for any inconsistencies that are highlighted by the correlation study
Results
•A full summary of the correlation study will be prepared by accrediting entity, which will be sent to both KIABI and APPLICANT LAB, this
summary report should include accrediting entity recommendations whether the lab is approved or not
Final •If KIABI lab fails to meet the correlation requirements, the laboratory will be put on notice of warning. A second correlation must be
decision completed within two (2) months. If the results of this second correlation are also unsatisfactory, the accreditation will be withdrawn
then the accreditation will be suspended for 3 month until correctiv actions satisfying Kiabi
process. In the contrary SD program will be cancelled.