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ARTIFICIAL VENEER
WHAT IS VENEER?
Veneer is a thin covering applied to the surface of
another object in order to conceal its true
appearance. It is typically more attractive than the
object itself, and is used to enhance aesthetic
appeal or improve value.Veneer is most commonly
used in woodworking, but may also be used in
masonry, stonework.
Wood veneer is a layer of wood less than 3mm (1/8

inch) in thickness. It is glued onto flat panels of
particleboard, fibreboard, or wood to create doors,
cabinets, and different furniture parts. In woodworking,
veneer is created by slicing or peeling a tree trunk to
obtain a sheet of the wood in the correct thickness. This
art can be traced back to the ancient Egyptians, who
used wood veneer to create furniture and other
objects.
WHAT IS ARTIFICIAL VENEER?
• Artificial veneer doesn’t exist.
Veneer is the thin layer of natural wood. However, this material has the
number of disadvantages: different coloring of the same wood species,
cracks, and knots. Moreover, it is impossible to form the solid sheet with
the thickness of most wood species, i.e. veneer is made of narrow strings.
The newest "fine line" technology allows to avoid all these disadvantages
with making the veneer artificial. The basic features of this material are
stable veneer color and texture from batch to batch, absence of minor
defects, and possibility to obtain large sheet needed for door leaf
manufacturing. The sheet size allows to finish the door leaf without
sticking together separate strings and to avoid the risk of fractures or
careless joints.
• They are made by using the rejected wood pieces, joined together and
soaked in chemical solutions, color; and then hard pressing it to form a
stiff sheet.
•Laminates such as Sunmica are basically a blend of paper and plastic.

Brown paper and Decorative paper soaked in phenolic and melamine
resins are hard pressed together to form a stiff laminate sheet.
Sunmica or other Laminates are made up of papers that are treated with
chemical resins to impart them with strength and stiffness.
The main ingredients required in the manufacturing process are listed

below.
•Brown paper (such as the one used for brown paper bags. It is also
known as Craft paper)
•Phenolic resin (which is made from phenol and is the basic material used
for making plastic)
•Decorative printed paper (this will have the printed decorative design for
the face of the sunmica/laminate sheet)
•Melamine resin(A clear transparent resin for treating the decorative
paper)
•Clear translucent paper (which forms the topmost overlay of the
decorative laminated sheet)
WHY USING VENEERS?
Veneering is an alternative to well finished,

solid timber.
For structural reasons, many of the most
beautiful timbers are not suitable for use in
solid form.
Even well seasoned timber is subject to
shrinkage, casting, twisting and splitting,
especially in centrally heated homes; and many
solid timbers have an irregular microstructure
which, in shaped work, can shorten the grain
and reduce their strength.
 Top: The sheet's come of the machine in
the order that they are cut.
 Centre: Arrange them top side up.
 Bottom: Turn over 1 and 2.
The quartering pattern is created

in the same way as the mirror
pattern. It is essential to ensure
that the edges are absolutely
square.
HOW VENEERS ARE MADE?
Veneers are basically thin slices of wood.
Traditionally they were sawn, but now they are
always sliced with large, powered knives. Sawn
veneers vary in thickness from 1.5mm to 6mm,
the most common being 3mm. Modern
veneers tend to be fairly standard at 0.8mm,
but they can be very much thinner (0.3mm) or
up to 9.5mm thick. The thickness depends on
the type of timber rather than the method of
cutting.
There are three main methods of cutting
veneers - rotary peeling, half round slicing and
flat slicing.
In rotary slicing (fig.1) the log is mounted on a large lathe-like
machine and revolved against the knife blade to peel off a
continuous sheet of veneer. The thickness of the veneer depends
on how fast the knife is advanced. Although cheap, rotary slicing
produces dull, uninteresting veneers which are mostly used in the
manufacture of plywood.
In the flat slicing method (fig.2), the knife is fixed and the timber—
called a flitch—is moved vertically up and down over it. This gives
a better result than the rotary peeling method, but the best
results are produced when the flitch is quarter sawn before
cutting begins.
In the half slicing method (fig.3), the flitch is mounted off-centre
and revolved over the knife; the figure in the wood will vary (fig.4)
according to the way in which the flitch is cut and how it is
mounted on the machine.
.
How to Prepare Veneer –The
Groundwork?
When using a manufactured board as a base
it is best to fix around it with solid timber.
Glue the lipping, cramp it and allow it to set.
The lipping is slightly proud of the surface of the ground so

trim it flush with a very finely set plane.
Even man-made boards display a certain

amount of unevenness .Shoot the surface
absolutely flat with a longer jack plane.
The quality of the finished work can only
be as good as the ground work
beneath. To finish, run an electric
orbital sander over the surface.
If you apply a lip before you veneer,

it will be covered but the veneer left
vulnerable. If you apply the lip after,
the veneer will be protected.
If you apply only one veneer, fix it to the

heart side of the timber to counteract
shrinkage.
How to Cut Veneer?
Successful cutting of veneers depends on two things:
very sharp tools and flat veneers.
Unfortunately, veneer is very rarely flat when bought and it is
usually necessary to flatten it yourself before you use it.
To avoid the annoyance of a sloping grain

pattern you must mark up the correct-
sized piece of veneer with a straight grain
pattern.
When cutting across the grain, start the

cut with the blade at a high angle, then
finish off with it almost flat. Cut with the
grain, flat.
To trim the edges of veneer it is best to
clamp the pieces between two waste
wood templates with straightedges,
then plane the sandwich.
When cutting across the grain, start the cut with the blade
at a high angle, then finish off with it almost flat. Cut with
the grain, flat.
The safest way to do this is first to damp both sides of the

veneer lightly with a very soft cloth and then size it,
watered down PVA adhesive works well. Afterwards,
wrap the veneer in double sheets of clean newspaper and
cramp it overnight between two flat boards. In the
morning the veneer will be flat, but you must use it as
soon as possible.
How to Fix Holes and Blemishes
in Veneer?
Many trees produce veneer with blemishes such as burr holes,
knot holes or splits. It is most important that you remove any
such blemish from the veneer before you lay it on the
groundwork.
To start with, take a piece of veneer of a matching grain and

cut it roughly to size. In order to line up the grain of the
work piece with the patch, cut a 'window' in the main
piece, line up the patch through the window and then fix it
in position with masking tape. Next, hold a sharp, pointed
blade at a slight angle, and cut through both pieces.
Reverse the blade angle for opposite cuts in order to
ensure a snug fit. Insert the patch from the rear and hold
it in position with a piece of brown gummed paper stuck
over the top surface.
To avoid the annoyance of a sloping grain You can patch sawn
veneers in the same way except that you must use a jig
saw, fitted with the finest toothed blade possible.
The best way to deal with surface faults in the veneer is to

cut an irregularly shaped hole and a veneer patch to
match.Tilt the blade slightly when you cut.
How to Glue Veneer?
The traditional veneer sticking techniques using hot animal glues
are too complex for ordinary use, and with the general
availability of modern adhesives they are also unnecessary.
If you are using a PVA adhesive, water it

down to avoid lumpiness and promote
quick setting. Apply the adhesive with
a fairly stiff brush.
You must take great care when laying the

veneer on to the ground although the
adhesive may remain workable, the
veneer is very delicate.
Once you have veneered both the top and
bottom of the board, cover the veneers
with paper then cramp up the work piece
between two cauls.
When the adhesive has set, remove the

cramps and cauls and trim up the
veneer with a sharp knife. Be careful
not to cut into the lipping.
Finally, to give the appearance of a solid

piece of timber, blend the edges of the
veneer and lipping with glasspaper on a
sanding block.
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What is veneer and what are its main uses?

What is veneer and what are its main uses?

What are the main ingredients used to manufacture artificial veneers?

What are the main ingredients used to manufacture artificial veneers?

ARTIFICIAL VENEER

Wood veneer is a layer of wood less than 3mm (1/8

•Laminates such as Sunmica are basically a blend of paper and plastic.

The main ingredients required in the manufacturing process are listed

Veneering is an alternative to well finished,

The quartering pattern is created

The lipping is slightly proud of the surface of the ground so

Even man-made boards display a certain

If you apply a lip before you veneer,

If you apply only one veneer, fix it to the

To avoid the annoyance of a sloping grain

When cutting across the grain, start the

The safest way to do this is first to damp both sides of the

To start with, take a piece of veneer of a matching grain and

The best way to deal with surface faults in the veneer is to

If you are using a PVA adhesive, water it

You must take great care when laying the

When the adhesive has set, remove the

Finally, to give the appearance of a solid

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