Partition and panelling

Submitted To-Ar. Harpreet Singh Submitted By –

Ar.Mona Gurnoor Bolaria 048
Pranjali Puri 063
Rajandeep Buttar
 PARTITION WALLS
Introduction Types of partition walls:
• Brick partitions,
 A partition wall may be defined as a wall or division • Hollow block partitions,
made up of bricks, studding, glass or other such material • Clay block partitions,
and provided for the purpose of dividing one room or • Concrete partitions,
portion of a room from another. • Glass block partitions,
• Wooden partitions,
 Partition walls are designed as non-load bearing walls. • Straw board partitions,
It may be of folding, collapsible or fixed type. • Plaster slab partitions,
 If partition walls are load bearing then they are called as • Metal partitions,
‘internal wall’. • Asbestos cement partitions
Advantages of partition walls • Double glazed window.

 Divide the whole area into a number of rooms.

 Provide privacy to the inmates from sight and sound.
 Are light in weight and cheaper in cost of construction.
 Occupy lesser area
 Easily constructed in any position.
Requirements of a Good Partition Wall:
 Thin in cross-section so that maximum floor area can be
utilized.
 Provide adequate privacy in rooms both in respect of
sight and sound.
 Constructed from light, sound, uniform, homogeneous,
durable and sound insulated materials.
 Simple in nature, easy and economical in construction
having proper coherence with the type of building
structure.
 Offer sufficient resistance against fire, heat, dampness,
white ant or fungus, etc.
 Rigid enough to take the vibrations caused due to loads.
 Strong enough to support sanitary fittings and heavy
fixtures.
 Concrete partition
Brick partition
 Constructed with plain bricks, Reinforced bricks,
 It can be either precast or cast in-situ.
bricks-nogged or hollow bricks.  Special concrete posts are used for the construction of
 Plain brick partition of half brick thickness is not precast concrete partition walls.
more than 2m in height.
 In reinforced brick partition of half brick
thickness, reinforcement in the form of wire mesh
or hoop iron or steel bars is provided.
 Brick nogging partition wall consists of brickwork
built up within a framework of wooden members.
 Brick partition is fire-resistant and sound-proof.

Glass partition
Hollow Block and Clay
Block Partitions • Are made from sheet glass or hollow glass blocks.
• Provides good aesthetics and allow light
 Hollow concrete block partitions are built of individual • Are damp, sound and heat proof.
units of concrete. • Easy to clean and maintain.
 Clay blocks used are well prepared from clay or terra- • Sheets of glass are fixed in the frame work of wooden or
cotta, and they are either solids or hollow. metal.
 Hollow clay blocks of section 30*20 cm with thickness • Hollow blocks doesn’t need timber framework.
varying from 5 cm to 15 cm can also be used.
 The blocks are provided with grooves on top, bottom and
sides, surfaces are kept glazed in different colures.
 They do not change their volume and are in
 lighter in weight.
 Strawboard partitions
Wooden partition
• Useful where removal of partitions is frequent.
 Lighter in weight and easy to construct. • Made of compressed straw covered thick paper or
 Neither sound-proof nor fire-proof. hardboard.
• Easy to construct.
 Not suitable for damp locations. • Heat and sound proof partitions.

Are of two types

Common partitions Are Trussed partitions Are

comprised of vertical members known designed on the principle of truss
as studs bridged between upper are useful where it is possible to
horizontal(head) and lower provide supports only.
horizontal(sill) member.

Strawboard Partition( with

Head glass also used)

Stud

Sill
Plaster slab partitions Asbestos Cement partitions
 Are made of burnt gypsum or
• Light in weight, impervious, durable, water tight and fire-proof.
plaster of paris mixed with sawdust.
• Asbestos cement sheets are made of asbestos cement sheets and fixed into
 5cm to 10cm thick slabs are timber framework.
prepared in iron or timber moulds. • Sheets are placed in position and joined by cement mortar.
 To form rigid joints suitable grooves • Are mostly adopted in works of temporary character.
are provided in the plaster slabs.
 Nails and screws can be easily
driven into these slabs. Incomplete Partition wall of
Plaster and expandable
metal
There are three types of partitions:

Metal partitions
• Are light in weight, fireproof
and strong.
Sliding: Sliding partitions consists
• Are easy to construct and shift. Sliding & folding: Sliding and
of series of panels that slide in Screens: Screens are usually
folding partitions operate in a
• Insulated material is filled into tracks fixed to the floor and constructed of a metal or timber
similar manner to sliding folding
ceiling. The machine if the frame. It is fixed with plywood
hollow spaces. partition is similar to those of
doors. They are normally used for
and chipboard inside. The screen
smaller spans.
• Used for office and industrial sliding doors. supported with legs for free
buildings. standing and easy movement.
• Are also formed of metal lathes
supported and fixed by wires.

Skeleton metal partition

Foldable partition wall

 WOOD PARTITION
ADVANTAGES:
• Reduced Site Labour
• Reduced Risk
Environmental Sustainability :The growing of timber benefits the environment, and its harvesting, production and transport are seen to produce less
CO2 than other construction materials such as concrete and steel. The environmental benefits of timber frame construction are reduced when timber is
imported from sources outside non local and requiring substantial fuel consumption in transportation.
Construction Design: Perceived problems with timber frame construction in the housing market from both the end users and local authorities would
include a perceived greater risk of fire, issues of sound attenuation in a timber structure and the impact such a structure might have on the security of the
end user.
Procurement and Detail Design: A timber frame solution is at a disadvantage in a procurement process where a prescriptive design and specification is
tendered which is specific to a masonry cavity wall construction. Acceptance of a comparable timber frame solution, which would require review, takes time
to prepare.
Deficiency in On-Site Quality: Familiarisation with the timber frame construction methods is often lacking in both the construction crew and any
architects or site managers who should be ensuring on-site quality is achieved.
Critical Setting Out of Ground Works: Timber frames are designed and manufactured to tight tolerance and require accurate setting out of ground
works and other adjoining construction such as chimneys, rising walls and block construction. As a result, these works need to be set out with a high degree
of accuracy. Problems arise on a site if agreed tolerance between the required dimensions and the built dimensions are not followed.
DISADVANTAGES:
• According to environmentalists, using wood for interior panelling comes at a high cost. Illegal logging practices have become common due to the high demand
and easy availability of wood to the construction industry. Additionally, loss of forests, it is claimed can lead to global warming.
• Though wood works as an excellent amplifier in sound systems, it is a bad insulator of the same, resulting in poor sound insulation between rooms which is an
essential criterion for achieving good acoustic comfort in any building.
• Most building codes and fire-safety norms today do not permit the installation of stand-alone wood panelling. Most codes require home-owners to replace
conventional wood panelling with fire-resistant products such as drywall.
• Panelling darkens with age
• Wood has a very low inertia which requires complex management strategies for the summer
comfort in hot areas.
• Termites and insects infest the wooden boards and also it acts as a catalyst for mold growth.
• Other environmental concerns for wood-related products relate to health issues concerning toxic finishes
 WALL FRAMING
 The typical exterior wall has door and window openings, as shown in figure 1-33. Interior walls,
usually referred to as "partitions," divide the inside area into separate rooms. Some interior
walls have door openings or archways.
 Partitions are either bearing or non-bearing. Bearing partitions support the ends of the floor
joists or ceiling joists. Non-bearing partitions run in the same direction as the joists and
therefore carry little weight from the floor or ceiling above.
 STRUCTURAL PARTS
 A wood-framed wall consists of structural parts referred to as "wall components" or "framing
members."
Figure 1-33.—Typical exterior wall.
 Studs: Studs are upright (vertical) framing members running between the top and bottom
plates. Studs are usually spaced 16 inches OC, but job specifications sometimes call for 12-inch
and 24-inch OC stud spacing.
 Plates: The plate at the bottom of a wall is the soleplate, or bottom plate. The plate at the top
of the wall is the top plate. A double top plate is normally used. It strengthens the upper section
of the wall and helps carry the weight of the joists and roof rafters. Since top and bottom plates
are nailed into all the vertical wall members, they serve to tie the entire wall together.
 Corner Posts: Corner posts are constructed wherever a wall ties into another wall. Outside
comers are at the ends of a wall. Inside corners occur where a partition ties into a wall at some
point between the ends of the wall.
 Rough Door and Window Openings
Figure 1-34.—Corner posts.
 A rough opening must be framed into a wall wherever a door or window is planned. A header is
placed at the top of a rough opening. The header is supported by trimmer studs fitting between
the soleplate and the bottom of the header. The trimmer studs are nailed into the regular studs
at each side of the header. Nails are also driven through the regular studs into the ends of the
header. Figure
 The header maybe either solid or built up of two 2 by 4 pieces with a 1/2-inch spacer. The spacer 1-35.—
is needed to bring the width of the header to 3 1/2 inches. This is the actual width of a nominal 2 Rough
by 4 stud wall.
frame
 The standard height of walls in most wind-framed buildings is either 8 feet 3/4 inch or 8 feet 1 opening
inch from the subfloor to the ceiling joists. The standard height of the doors is 6 feet 8 inches.
s for
 Cripple studs are nailed between the header and the double top plate of a door opening. These
help carry the weight from the top plate to the header. The cripple studs are generally spaced 16
doors
inches OC. and
 A rough window sill is added to the bottom of a rough window opening. The sill provides
window
support for the finished window and frame to be placed in the wall. Cripple studs, spaced 16 s.
inches OC, are nailed between the sill and soleplate. Additional cripple studs may be placed
under each end of the sill.
 Bracing
 Diagonal bracing is necessary for the lateral strength of a wall. In all exterior walls and main interior
partitions, bracing should be placed at both ends (where possible) and at 25-foot intervals.
 Diagonal bracing is most effective when installed at a 45° to 60° angle. The most widely used bracing
system is the 1 by 4 let-in type, as shown in figure 1-36. The studs are notched so that the 1 by 4 piece is
flush with the surface of the studs.
 Cut-in bracing (fig. 1-36) is another type of diagonal bracing. It usually consists of 2 by 4s cut at an angle
and toenailed between studs at a diagonal from the top of a corner post down to the soleplate.
 CONSTRUCTION
 All major components of a wall should be cut before assembly. By reading the blueprints, you can
determine the number of pieces and lengths of all components. The different parts of the wall are then
assembled. Any hard, level surface can be used for assembly. After completing nailing, raise the walls in
place for securing.
 Two layout procedures are used in wall layout: horizontal plate and vertical layout. Figure 1-36.—Types of bracing.
 Horizontal Plate Layout
 After all the lines are snapped, the wall plates are cut and tacked next to the lines (fig. 1-38). Figure 1-37
shows a wall with framing members nailed in place according to layout markings.
 A procedure for marking outside and inside comers for stud-and-block corner post construction is shown
in figure 1-39. For laying out studs for the first exterior wall, see figure 1-40. In figure 1-40, the plates are
marked for the first stud from a corner to be placed 15 1/4 inches from the end of the turner. Studs after
the first stud follow 16 inches OC layout. This ensures the edges of standard-size panels used for sheathing
or wallboard fall on the centres of the studs. Cripples are laid out to follow the layout of the studs.
 A procedure for laying out studs for the second exterior wall is shown in figure 1-41. The plates are 
marked for the first stud to be placed 15 1/4 inches from the outside edge of the panel thickness on the Figure 1-41.—Second
Figure 1-38.—Layout and cutting of plates.
first wall. Figure 1-39.—Marking exterior wall stud
inside and outside corners. layout.
 Vertical Layout
 Vertical layout is the procedure for calculating the lengths of the different vertical members of a
wood-framed wall. This makes it possible to pre-cut all studs, trimmers, and cripples required for a
building.
 The distance from the bottom to the top of a rough window opening can be found by measuring
down from the bottom of the window header using dimensions provided in the rough opening
column of the window schedule.
 Many Builders prefer to frame the door and window openings before assembling the wall. View A of
figure 1-44 shows typical door framing; view B shows typical window framing. After stud layout,
cripple studs are laid out (usually 16 inches OC) and nailed between the header and top plate and
rough window sill and soleplate. It is a good practice to place a cripple stud under each end of a sill.
 ASSEMBLY
 After the corners and openings for doors and windows have been made up, the entire wall can be
nailed together .on the subfloor (fig. 1-45). Place top and bottom plates at a distance slightly greater
than the length of the studs. Place studs in position with the crown side up. Nail the plates into the
studs, cripples, and trimmers. On long walls, the breaks in the plates should occur over a stud or
cripple.
 Plumbing and Aligning
 Accurate plumbing of the comers is possible only after all the walls are up. Most framing materials
are not perfectly straight; walls should never be plumbed by applying a hand level directly to an end Figure 1-44.—Framing typical door and
stud. Always use a straightedge along with the level, as shown in figure 1-49, view A. The window openings
straightedge can be a piece ripped out of plywood or a straight piece of 2 by 4 lumber. Blocks 3/4
inch thick are nailed to each end. The blocks make it possible to accurately plumb the wall from the
bottom plate to the top plate.

Figure 1-45.—Assembly of
wall components.

Figure 1-49.—Plumbing
and aligning corners and
walls.
 SHEATHING THE WALLS
 Wall sheathing is the material used for the exterior covering of the outside walls. In the past, nominal 1-
inch-thick boards were nailed to the wall horizontally or at a 45° angle for sheathing. Today, plywood and
other types of panel products (waferboard, oriented strandboard, compositeboard) are usually used for
sheathing. Plywood and nonveneered panels can be applied much quicker than boards. They add
considerable strength to a building and often eliminate the need for diagonal bracing.
 Generally, wall sheathing does not include the finished surface of a wall, Siding, shingles, stucco, or brick
veneer are placed over the sheathing to finish the wall.
 Plywood
 Plywood is the most widely used sheathing material. Plywood panels usually applied to exterior walls range
in size from 4 by 8 feet to 4 by 12 feet with thicknesses from 5/16 inch to 3/4 inch. The panels may be placed
with the grain running vertically or horizontally (fig. 1-50). Specifications may require blocking along the
long edges of horizontally placed panels. Figure 1-50.-Plywood sheathing.
 Typical nailing specifications require 6d nails with panels 1/2 inch or less in thickness and 8d nails for
panels more than 1/2 inch thick. The nails should be spaced 6 inches apart along the edges of the panels and
12 inches apart at the intermediate studs.
 When nailing the panels, leave a 1/8-inch gap between the horizontal edges of the panels and a 1/16-inch
gap between the vertical edges. These gaps allow for expansion caused by moisture and prevent panels from
buckling.
 In larger wood-framed buildings, plywood is often nailed to some of the main interior partitions.
 Plywood sheathing can be applied when the squared wall is still lying on the subfloor. However, problems
can occur after the wall is raised if the floor is not perfectly straight and level. For this reason, some Builders
prefer to place the plywood after the entire building has been framed.
APPLICATIONS:

In offices In marriage halls

In houses For decoration


BRICK PARTITION
. Brick Partitions:Brick partition wall is cheap, so it is mostly used.
 Partition wall with bricks are of 3 types.
 Plain brick partition wall
 Reinforced brick partition wall
 Brick noggin partition wall.
 1. Plain Brick Partition Wall: In this type of partition wall, the thickness of the wall is half of the thickness
of brick. Bricks are used as stretcher to build the partition wall. Both the sides of the wall is plastered. If whole
work is completed properly the partition wall will be comparatively strong and fire resistant.
 2. Reinforced Brick Partition Wall: It is stronger than plain brick partition. This type of partition is used
when the wall needs to carry external vertical loading. Thickness of the wall is equal to thickness of brick.
Exmet is used as reinforcement. Special thin steel plates are cut and then made diamond shaped stretching by
machine. It is known as expanded metal. Exmet is used at every 3rd coarse.
 3. Brick Noggin Partition Wall: Brick noggin partition wall is built by brick masonry in a frame made by
wood. Thickness of the wall is half of brick thickness. Wooden frame is built by the following members.
 Sill – Lowest horizontal member of wooden frame
 Head – Highest horizontal member of wooden frame
 Stud – Vertical member of wooden frame
 Noggin piece – Other horizontal members of wooden frame except sill and head.
 Studs are placed vertically at 60 to 150 cm horizontal distance. Noggin pieces are placed horizontally after 60
to 90 cm vertical distances. Wooden frame work is used to reduce the effect of vibration and lateral load
caused by opening or closing of doors and windows. Bricks are laid flat or side by side  in the frame. For
masonry, cement & aggregate is used in 1:3 ratio. If necessary, reinforcement can be used at every 3rd coarse
of brick masonry work. Coal tar is used at the side of the wooden frame that is touched with the brick
masonry. The width of noggin and stud is equal to the partition wall thickness. After masonry work is done,
both the sides are plastered. The main problem with this type of partition wall is the woods used for noggin
and stud can be damaged and after some days of the completion of masonry work, masonry can be detached
from the wood member.
 2. Hollow brick partition of clay, terracotta or concrete (figure 3)
 Hollow blocks moulded from clay, terracotta or concrete are now commonly used for the construction of
partition walls. Such walls are light, rigid, economical, strong and fire resistant. They have good sound
insulating properties. The sizes of the blocks differ with the texture of the material. The thickness of this type
of partition wall varies between 6 cm to 15 cm. these walls are constructed in similar manner as structural
load bearing walls.
 GLASS BRICK
PARTITION
 Glass brick, also known as glass block, is an architectural element made from glass. Glass bricks provide visual
obscuration while admitting light. The glass block was originally developed in the early 1900s to provide natural light in
manufacturing plants.

 Glass bricks are produced for both wall and floor applications. Glass blocks for use in floors are normally manufactured
as a single solid piece, or as a hollow glass block with thicker side walls than the standard wall blocks. These blocks are
normally cast into a reinforced concrete grid work or set into a metal frame, allowing multiple units to be combined to
span over openings in basements and roofs.
 Construction methods
 Glass wall blocks are fixed together to form complete walls by several methods – the most common method of
construction is to bed the blocks together in a Portland cement-based mortar with reinforcing rods of steel placed within
the mortar as recommended by the project architect or block manufacturer.
 Other methods of construction include several proprietary systems whereby the mortar is replaced by timber or PVC
extrusions.
 Specialty types
 Specialist glass blocks are produced for various applications including:
 Bullet and vandal resistance
 Bullet and vandal resistant blocks are generally solid glass or have very thick side walls similar to pavement blocks.
 Fire resistance
 Fire resistance of varying degrees can be achieved by several methods.
 Gas insulated
 A recent innovation in the manufacture of glass blocks is the inclusion of argon gas within the hollow centre of glass wall
blocks.
 Colored
 Some hollow glass wall blocks are available in coloured variants. These coloured variants fall into two categories; those
that are manufactured with coloured glass which are UV stable and can be used in the same locations as standard clear
glass blocks. The other method by which coloured glass blocks are achieved is to inject a coloured material, dye or
transparent paint into the hollow centre of the blocks to form a permanent coating. This method of producing coloured
blocks enables vibrant colours to be achieved which are not possible with coloured glass. The downside of this
production method is that the coloured coating may not be UV stable and can fade in bright sunshine over time and may
therefore, not be suitable for all locations.
  Color Glass Blocks
 Include color glass block in your glass block design to add interest and a touch of simple elegance.
Color Glass
Blocks
Consider randomly
putting some color
blocks into a wall,
adding a stripe of
color or make the
whole wall color
Azure Midnight
Nordiques Sunglow with our brilliant
color options. You
can use our 8
standard colors or
develop a custom
color specifically
for your décor.

Pale Green Violet Forest Green Creamsicle

Lilac Hot Pink

Venetian Pink

Bronze Caribbean Cardinal

 Glass Bricks
Glass Bricks – a 100% compact glass block that combines the strength of traditional brick with the transparency and luminosity of
glass. Unlike traditional products that are hollow inside, solid Glass Bricks deliver visual effects and movement created deep within
the block that adds transparency, passage of light and new beauty to the usual properties of this construction element. Glass Bricks
come in four colors: Clear, Royal Blue, Dark Amber and Nordiques.
Dimensions:
Rectangular: 9″ x 4.5″ x 2″
Square: 4.5″ x 4.5″ x 2″

Clear Rectangular Glass Brick Royal Blue Rectangular Glass Brick Dark Amber Rectangular Glass Brick Nordiques Rectangular Glass Brick

Clear square Glass Brick Royal Blue square Glass Brick Dark Amber square Glass Brick Nordiques square Glass Brick

INSTULATION
Measure and Cut the Half Wall Dimensions
 Measure the area where the half wall will be located. Figure out the overall dimensions of the half wall with the glass block top. Once the full
dimensions are found, decide on the dimensions of the half wall, on top of which the glass block will sit.
 Frame and Place the Half Wall
 Use the framing gun to nail the studs to the top and bottom plates. Space the studs 16" apart. Set the half-wall frame in place along the chalk line on
the floor.
 Apply the Drywall
 Using a utility knife, cut the 1/2" drywall to fit the half wall. Secure the drywall to the studs with the screw gun and 1-1/2" coarse drywall screws. Keep
the top edge of the drywall flush with the top of the top plate. Fill the screw holes with joint compound, let dry, then sand smooth.
 If drywall is applied to both sides of the half wall, the total thickness of the wall will be 4-1/2". Rip the 1" x 6" down to a width of 5", which will give a
1/4" overhang on each side. Cut and attach the 1" x 5" clear pine to the unfinished top and end of the wall. Cut the end of each board at a 45-degree
angle where they meet at the corner. Attach the 1" x 5" pieces by face-nailing them into the exposed 2x4s with the 18-gauge nail gun and 2" nails. Test
Fit the Glass Blocks
 Test fit the glass blocks on top of the 1" x 5" and up the wall, using the spacers. Mark the locations where the blocks end (the last one on the 1" x 6" and
the last one up the wall). Draw a center line up the wall and down the 1" x 5" to these marks.
 Attach the Horizontal Spacers
 Cut the horizontal spacer to length and center it on the line on the 1" x 6". Draw lines along both sides of the spacer.
 Remove the spacer and apply two 1/4" beads of sealant 1/4" inside the traced outline of the spacer.
 Install the First Row of Blocks
 Line up the first row of blocks and one end block on top of the horizontal spacer.
Apply two 1/4" beads of sealant across the top of the blocks, just behind the raised edges.
Apply four 1/2" dabs of sealant to one side of the first block, 1/2" from each corner.
 Install Additional Rows
 Apply two 1/4" beads of sealant on top of the first row of blocks, just behind the raised edges. Install the second 31" horizontal spacer on top of the first
row of blocks, with an anchor inserted into the wall end. Make sure the spacer fits firmly on the glass blocks. Press the spacer down onto the sealant.
 Align the V notch in the anchor with the plumb line drawn on the jamb, and attach the anchor using the screws provided in the anchor pack. Remove
any excess sealant from the horizontal and vertical joints. Adjust the size of sealant beads to prevent squeeze out (keep the joints clean of sealant). Do
not change the location of the beads of sealant. Continue installing the block in this manner until the last block is set.
 Apply the Grout
 Mix the grout according to the instructions. Apply the grout to the glass block joints using the rubber float. Use clean water and a damp sponge to wipe
up any excess grout, wiping in a circular motion. Let the grout dry and wipe the film off of the blocks.
APPLICATION

SHOWER BOX ENTRANCE HALL PARTITION WALLS CORRIDOR

BATHROOM

NIGHT ZONE STAIRWELL OFFICE KITCHEN DECORATIVE DETAILS

  WHAT IS GYPSUM BOARD?
 Gypsum board is the generic name for a family of panel products that consist of a
noncombustible core, composed primarily of gypsum, and a paper surfacing on the face,
back and long edges. Gypsum board is one of several building materials covered by the
umbrella term “gypsum panel products.” All gypsum panel products contain gypsum
cores; however, they can be faced with a variety of different materials, including paper
and fiberglass mats.
 Gypsum board is often called drywall, wallboard, or plasterboard. It differs from other
panel-type building products, such as plywood, hardboard, and fiberboard, because of
its noncombustible core and paper facers.
Advantages of Gypsum Board Construction
Gypsum board walls and ceilings have a number of outstanding advantages:
Ease of installation
Fire resistance Fig. 1 – Horizontally Applied
Sound isolation
Durability Gypsum Wallboard Showing Joints
Economy and Framing
Versatility

Fig. 2
– How
Gypsu
m
Retards
Heat
Trans
• mission
Ease of installation:Gypsum board building systems are easy to install for several reasons. Gypsum board panels are relatively large compared to
other materials. They come in 48- and 54-inch wide sheets and in lengths of 8, 10, or 12 feet, so they quickly cover large wall and ceiling areas. it can be
attached with a variety of fasteners, including screws, nails, and staples. It can also be adhesively attached to many substrates. Gypsum board is a
lightweight material.
• Fire resistance:Gypsum board is an excellent fire-resistive building material. When installed in combination with other materials in laboratory-tested
wall and ceiling assemblies, gypsum board serves to effectively protect building elements from fire for prescribed time periods.
• Sound isolation :Preventing the transfer of unwanted sound to adjoining areas is a key consideration when designing a building, specifically when
taking into account the intended activities of the occupants in the various parts of the building.
• Durability:Gypsum board is used to construct strong, high quality walls and ceilings that offer excellent dimensional stability and durability. Surfaces
created using gypsum board are easily decorated and refinished.
• Economy:Gypsum board is readily available and easy to apply. It is an inexpensive wall surfacing material that provides a fire resistant interior finish.
• Versatility:Gypsum board satisfies a wide range of architectural requirements for design. Ease of application, performance, ease of repair, availability,
and its adaptability to all forms of decoration combine to make gypsum board unmatched by any other surfacing product.
 Types of Gypsum Board
 Using ever-developing new technologies, gypsum producers offer a variety of gypsum board products for
many specific applications, including: the surface layer of interior walls and ceilings; a base for ceramic,
plastic and metal tile; exterior sheathing and soffits; elevator and other shaft enclosures; area separation fire
walls between occupancies; and the fire-resistant layer over structural elements.
 Different thicknesses are typically used in the specific following applications:
 ¼ -inch – A low cost gypsum board used as a base in a multilayer application for improving sound control,
used to cover existing walls and ceilings in remodeling and for curved surfaces.
 5/16 -inch – A specialty product primarily used in the production of manufactured housing and in
laminated double thickness for special sound control panels.
 3/8-inch – A gypsum board principally applied in a double-layer system over wood framing and as a face
layer in repair or remodeling.
 ½-inch – Generally used as a single layer wall and ceiling material in residential work and in double-layer
systems for greater sound and fire ratings.
 5/8-inch – Used in quality single-layer and double-layer wall systems. The greater thickness provides
additional fire resistance, higher rigidity, and better impact resistance.
Fig. 3 – Graphic of Edge Types
 ¾-inch & 1 inch – Used in interior partitions, shaft walls, stairwells, chaseways, area separation firewalls
and corridor ceilings. Special edged panels are used in some interior partitions.
 Standard size gypsum boards are 48 inches wide and 8, 10, 12 or 14 feet long. The 48 inch width is
compatible with standard framing methods in which studs or joists are spaced 16 inches and 24 inches o.c.

Common Types of Gypsum Board in Alphabetical Order:

• Abuse-resistant gypsum panels offer greater resistance to surface indentation, abrasion and penetration than standard gypsum panels.
• Eased edge gypsum board, which has a tapered and slightly rounded or beveled factory edge. It may be used as an aid in custom finishing of joints.
• Exterior gypsum soffit board is board designed for use on the undersides of eaves, canopies, carports, and other commercial and residential exterior applications with indirect
exposure to the weather. Soffit board is available in 1/2 or 5/8 -inch thicknesses with both regular and Type X core.
• Foil-backed gypsum board has aluminum foil laminated to the back surface of regular gypsum board or other gypsum panel products. Foil-backed panels serve as vapor
barriers.
• Gypsum base for veneer plaster serves as a base for thin coats of hard, high strength gypsum veneer plaster.
• Gypsum liner board serves as a liner panel in shaft walls, stairwells, chase ways, area separation fire walls, and corridor ceilings. It has a special fire-resistant core encased in
moisture-resistant paper. Liner board is available in ¾ or 1 -inch thicknesses, widths of 24 or 48 inches and with square edges
• Gypsum sheathing is used as a protective fire resistive membrane under exterior wall surfacing materials such as wood siding, masonry veneer, stucco and shingles. It also
provides protection against the passage of water and wind and adds structural rigidity to the framing system. The noncombustible core is surfaced with water repellent paper; in
addition, it may also have a water resistant core. Available in 2 feet and 4 feet widths, ½ -inch and 5/8 -inch thick. It is also available with Type X core. Gypsum sheathing is also
available with a glass mat facing.
• Impact-resistant gypsum panels offer greater resistance to the
impact of solid objects from high traffic and vandalism than standard
gypsum panels.
• Mold-resistant board incorporates various methods of preventing the
growth of mold and mildew on the board’s surface.
• Non-paper-faced gypsum board is unfaced or has a facing other
than paper.
• Regular gypsum board (gypsum wallboard) is used as a surface layer
on walls and ceilings.
• Sag-resistant board is a ceiling panel that offers greater resistance to
sagging than regular gypsum products used for ceilings where framing is
typically spaced 24 inches o.c.
• Type C or Proprietary Type-X gypsum board is available in ½
-inch and 5/8 -inch thicknesses and is required in some fire rated
assemblies. Additional additives give this product improved fire resistive
properties.
• Type X gypsum board is available in ½ -inch and 5/8 -inch
thicknesses and has an improved fire resistance made possible through
the use of special core additives. It is also available with a predecorated
finish. Type X gypsum board is used in most fire rated assemblies.
• Water-resistant gypsum board has a water resistant gypsum core
and a water repellent paper. It serves as a base for ceramic or plastic wall
tile or plastic finish panels in non-wet areas. This product is available
with a regular or Type X core and in ½ -inch and 5/8 -inch thicknesses.

Limitations of Use
For installation of gypsum board and finishes, maintain room temperature at not less
than 40 degrees F for the mechanical application of gypsum board and not less than
50 degrees for the adhesive application of gypsum board and for joint treatment,
texturing and decoration, unless recommended otherwise by the manufacturer.
CAUTION: When using a temporary heat source, do not allow ambient temperatures
to exceed 95 degrees F in any given room or area. Maintain adequate ventilation in the
working area during installation and curing period. Do not use gypsum board where
exposure to moisture is extreme or continuous. Take care to ensure that the gypsum
board will not be exposed to temperatures exceeding 125 degrees F for extended
periods of time, for example, when located adjacent to wood burning stoves, electric
lighting, electric heating appliances or other heating units, or hot air flues.Note:
Proper installation of lighting and other heat–producing electrical fixtures requires
strict adherence to the National Electrical Code (NFPA 70A). When using gypsum
board in air handling systems, keep the gypsum board surface temperature above the
air stream dew point temperature but below 125 degrees F. Consult manufacturer’s
literature for other limitations of use for specific products.
APPLICATION OF GYPSUM BOARD
Gypsum board can be applied over wood or metal framing or furring. It can be applied to
masonry and concrete surfaces, either directly or to wood or metal furring strips. When
applying board directly to masonry or concrete surfaces, smooth or fill in any irregularities to
ensure proper attachment and an acceptable final finished surface. Furring properly attached
to interior sides of exterior walls provides flat surfaces for standard fastener application as well
and sufficient separation from substrates to overcome dampness in exterior walls. External
corners are normally reinforced with either a metal or plastic corner bead which in turn is
covered with joint compound. Exposed edges are covered with metal or plastic trim. The result
is a smooth, unbroken surface ready for final decoration of paint, textures, wallpaper tile,
panelling, or other materials.

Table- with framing spacing for

textured gypsum board ceilings
per board thickness
Avoid using lumber with a moisture
content exceeding 15 % at the time of
the gypsum board application. Avoid
using “green lumber” –which may
contain up to 19% moisture at the
time of sale – for framing. Because
lumber shrinks across the grain as it
dries, it tends to expose the shanks of
Control Joints
nails driven into the edge of the
Ceilings exceeding 2500 sq. ft. in
framing members.
area, and partition-, wall-, and wall-
Stud furring runs
Shrinkage with Reduction in exceeding 30 ft. all require control
Moisture Content joints. Do not exceed 50 ft. between
If framing shrinkage is substantial ceiling control joints in either
or nails are longer than necessary, direction. Install a control joint
the gypsum board may separate wherever ceiling framing or furring
from its framing lumber, which changes direction. Do not exceed 30
often causes nail heads to ft. between control joints in walls or
protrude above the board surface wall furring. Be sure to install a
(these blemishes are colloquially control joint where an expansion
known as “nail pops”). joint occurs in the base of an
exterior wall. Wall- or partition-
height door frames may serve as
control joints.
Fig. 1 – Measuring from Edge before Cutting Fig. 2 – Using Utility Knife to Score Board
Board Then snap the board back and away from the scored cut on Fig. 3– Snapping Scored Board
To cut gypsum board, working from the face the face of the board(Fig 3).
side , first score the board by cutting through the
paper to the core
Single-Ply and with a sharp knife
Multi-Ply (Fig. 2.
Application
In light commercial and residential construction, single-ply gypsum board systems (Fig. 9) are the most commonly used wall and ceiling systems.
Usually such systems meet fire resistance and sound control requirements 2. Multi-ply systems (Fig. 10) have two or more layers of gypsum board that
will typically increase sound isolation and fire resistive performance.Multi-ply systems also provide better surface quality because face layers are often
laminated over base layers, so fewer fasteners are needed to attach the face layer. Nail popping and joint ridging problems are less frequent, and
imperfectly aligned supports have less effect on the finished surface.

Ensure satisfactory results with

either single-ply or multi-ply
assemblies by requiring proper:
·framing details (straight, correctly
spaced, properly cured lumber)
·job conditions (controlled
temperature and adequate
ventilation during application)
·application of the board
(measuring, cutting, aligning,
fastening)
·joint and fastener treatment
·special requirements for proper
sound isolation, fire resistance,
thermal properties, or moisture
resistance.
PANELLING
Advantages of Polycarbonate Panels
• Their toughness, durability and lightness are some of the main advantages.
• Virtually unbreakable ,can withstand massive force. Hence used in the construction of bulletproof windows and police shields.
• Ultraviolet blockage. This quality makes these panels the material of choice for constructing overhead covers and awnings in
commercial establishments.
• Polycarbonate panels are very light when compared to glass, acrylic or other plastics. This results in easy transportation, installation
and lower labour costs.
• High resistance to heat and cold. These panels are ideal for use in any kind of harsh environment, where they can last longer than other
standard construction materials.
• Polycarbonate panels are available in clear glass-like shades and also opaque shades for better cover
• The excellent optical properties of polycarbonate panels enable keeping out ultraviolet rays while letting in adequate sunlight and heat.
These panels are therefore the preferred material of choice for constructing greenhouses and plant nurseries.
• Polycarbonate factors are resistant to sunlight, rain and snow. This enables these panels to last in the outdoors for many years without
showing signs of fading, yellowing or discoloration.
Disadvantages of Polycarbonate Panels
• High price is one of the major disadvantages of polycarbonate panels.
• Polycarbonate panels are not very resistant to scratching, marring and abrasive surfaces. As a
result, denting is possible on the surface if care is not taken.
• Polycarbonate panels are highly sensitive to abrasive cleaners, alkaline cleaning products and
solvents.
• The manufacturing process for polycarbonate panels is not very environmentally friendly,
requires very high processing temperatures and is also very expensive. Also, it requires
phosgene, which is known for its ill effects on human health and chlorine, which is also
environmentally unfriendly.
Installation
The framing for Multi-Wall should be 24" to 24½" on center. Cross blocking should be 4 ft. to 6 ft. apart between Ridge and Eave, and also in walls over 6 ft. tall.
Step 1. Taping the ends of the panels or installing End Caps.
The ends of the polycarbonate panels should be sealed to keep out dust and insects. Sealing is done with a special breathable tape,aluminum channel, or by fitting the
panel into an End Cap Do not use silicone or caulking to seal the ends.This will trap gasses from the silicone in the channels which will burn the inside and damage the
polycarbonate.
A. To seal the top ends with the polycarbonate tape:
a. Lay out the Multi-Wall panel on a flat surface with UV side up and end to be taped
b. Peel back plastic film on each side of the panel about 4" to 6" from edge (fig 1).
c. Measure Multi-Wall, and cut polycarbonate tape to length.
d. Peel off protective backing on tape.
e. With one end of tape in each hand, start one end with 1/4" overlap onto panel. Pulling tight with
opposite hand, press other end in place with 1/4" overlap onto panel (fig 2).
f. Using fingers, press tape evenly, and then fold onto back side and smooth out (fig 3).
B. To seal the ends with the End Cap (fig 5)
a. Lay out the Multi-Wall panel on flat surface with UV side up and the end to be sealed next to you.
b. Peel back plastic film on each side of panel about 4"-6" from edge.
c. Fit the End Cap over one end of the panel. Slide down the panel until all of the channels are covered.
Step 2. Poly Installation:
Option 1. Using wood cap
A. seal ends with polycarbonate tape.
a.Lay down two strips of glazing tape ,one for each panel on the edges of the framing.
b. Lay the two pieces of polycarbonate down – leave about a 1/4" to 1/2" gap between the panels for
expansion and for the screws. Remove backing paper from tape.
c. Seal with a layer of Foilastic Tape for roof applications
d. Lay down another two strips of glazing tape on each side onto the back of the wood cap.
e. Set the wood cap onto the glazing tape and attach with stainless steel, or coated
decking screws every 12".
f. Seal screw heads with silicone.
C. On framing where one panel crosses the framing and does not join another panel
• For up to 8-ft. panels, use one screw placed in the center of the panel
• For 12-ft. panels, use two screws, one 4 ft. in from each end.
D. For the top, bottom, and sides where the panels will end
1. Lay down one strip of glazing tape.
2. Set panel in place.
3. Place a wood spacer at the end and seal the seam with the Foilastic Tape.
4. Lay down another strip of glazing tape.
5. Install wood cap with stainless steel screws every 12".
6. Seal screw heads with silicone.
Option 2. Using Polycarbonate Capping
A. On framing where 2 panels will be joined
Slip polycarbonate into each side of the Joiner Cap. Start at one end and slide panels until edge is
completely covered by Joiner Cap. Set Joiner Cap on framing and attach using Washer Head Screws
every 12" and at each end. On framing where one panel crosses the framing and does not join another panel .
For up to 8-ft. panels, use one screw placed in the center of the panel.For 12-ft. panels, use two screws, one 4 ft. in from each end.
Lay down two strips of glazing tape.Lay down the panel. Add a 1" gasket washer to your Washer Head Screw. This will spread the pressure over a
larger area to prevent crushing the polycarbonate. For the top, bottom, and sides where the panels will end .Fit the End Cap over one end of the Multi-Wallpanel.
Slide down the panel until all of the channels are covered. Attach using Washer Head Screws every 12“ and at each end.
Option 3. Using Aluminum Bar Cap
Lay down two strips of glazing tape, one for each panel on the edges of the framing. Lay the two pieces of polycarbonate down – leave about a 1/4" to 1/2" gap between the
panels for expansion and for the screws. Slide the rubber gasket into each side of the Aluminum Base. Set the Aluminum Base onto the polycarbonate and attach with shallow
head stainless steel screws every 9". Slide Aluminum Cap into the base.
B. For the top, bottom, and sides where the panels will end .
For up to 8-ft. panels, use one screw placed in the center of the panel. For 12-ft. panels, use two screws, one 4 ft. in from each end. Lay down two strips of glazing tap and
panel. Slide the rubber gasket into each side of the Aluminum Base. Set the Aluminum Base onto the polycarbonate and attach with a shallow head stainless steel screw at
each end where the cap extends past the polycarbonate and in the center. Set Aluminum Cap onto the base and snap into place using a rubber mallet, or slide cap into place
from one end.
C. For the top, bottom, and sides where the panels will end .Lay down one strip of glazing tape.
Set panel in place. Install a wood spacer at the end. Slide the rubber gasket into each side of the Aluminum Base. Set the Aluminum Base onto the polycarbonate and attach
with shallow head stainless steel screws every 12". Set Aluminum Cap onto the base and snap into place using a rubber mallet, or slide cap into place from one end.
Step 3. Sealing
Seal with a thin bead (1/16" diam. to 1/8" diam.) of silicone sealant. Fig 15. Where the capping overlaps or is
mitered.
Fig 16. On upper edges of horizontal capping.
References:
Dr B.C.Punamia, Building Construction
S.P.Arora and S.P.Bindra, Building
Construction
Robert Jantschek, Portable wall partition with
full panel end members.
www.niceduniya.com,Principles of design of
partitions walls.
Images are taken from google image search