Course Name : Agricultural Microbiology

Course Code :MBIO 307

Group :D
Topic :Define and type of Soil.
Student Name ID No.
Abdus Subhan 182030031
Ujjal Basak 182031031
Jannatul Ferdousi 182034031
Susmita Mazumder182035031
Nayma Ferdousi 182037031
Sraboni Rani Das 182040031
Soil
Soil can be defined as “the organic and inorganic materials on the
surface of the earth that provide the medium for plant growth.”

Type of Soil
 Sandy soil
 Clay soil
 Silt soil
 Loamy soil
 Peat Soil
 Chalk soil
Sandy soil

 It has very low nutrients

 Poor in holding water, which makes it hard for
the plant’s root to absorb water.
 The poorest types of soil for agriculture and
growing plant.
Work In Lots Of Rich Organic Materials

Itneed to amend the soil. The best way to do this is by incorporating

compost or composted manure. It is dark, crumbly, and clings
together, plus it retains water. Compost also contains plenty of vital
nutrients for plants in its organic material, and as that organic matter
breaks down it slowly releases them to plant’s roots.
Composts made from grass clippings, leaf mold, manure, food waste,
and other similar products improve the soil. While adding sphagnum
peat moss, coconut coir, or vermiculite can also amend sandy soils,
these additions only improve the moisture retention capability of the
soil. They do not address the lack of nutrients. 
Apply 3 to 4 inches of well-finished compost or manure over the
surface of gardens and landscape beds and work it into the sandier
soil.
Layer On The Mulch

Compost can also act as a mulch, especially if

it’s a bulky compost with lots of larger bits.
Spreading a thick layer of compost over the
soil slows erosion and helps maintain soil
moisture. It’ll gradually decompose and
combine over time with sandy material,
dropping from the surface deeper into the bed.
Applying more to top it off not only provides
nutrients and soil improvement but will keep
plants happy.
Grow Cover Crops

Another convenient source of organic matter

is growing cover crops. Planting a cover crop
reduces plants growth in garden beds. Later,
cut the plant and let it decompose into the soil.
Common summer cover crops include
cowpeas, and buckwheat. In winter can plant
hairy vetch, mustard, and crimson clover.
These crops are sown in bed and just as they
near the flowering stage, they’re ready to till
into the soil.
How to Water Sandy Soil
Since sandy soil types drain off excess moisture
quickly, may need to water them more frequently.
Providing mulch on the surface will also aid in reducing
water loss through evaporation. And, of course,
working peat moss or coconut coir through sandy soil
will allow it to hold more water.
When the soil is fully dry, briefly dampen it and then
wait a few minutes to allow the water to permeate
through the sand particles. Then, do a slow, deep
watering with a soaker hose or other drip irrigation
method to ensure that the liquid can spread throughout
the soil.
Best Vegetables for Sandy Soils
Carrots, beets, radishes, parsnips, potatoes, and many
other tuberous or deeply-rooted vegetables adore a
sandy bed. These don’t do as well in clay, as they prefer
the light and loose texture of sandy soil.
Alliums such as garlic, onions, and leeks all like the soil
to be a bit loose and sandy as well. So do many herbs
and spices, particularly those grown in Mediterranean
climates like oregano, rosemary, and so on.
Other fruits and veggies are able to thrive in sandy soil,
too. Tomatoes, squash, peppers, melons, and
even lettuce can be grown without much difficulty in
sandy soils.
Figure: Sandy soil
Clay soil
Clay soil is soil that is comprised of very
fine mineral particles and not much organic
material. The resulting soil is quite sticky
since there is not much space between the
mineral particles, and it does not drain well
at all.
Advantages of Clay Soil
Even clay soil has some good qualities.
Clay, because of its density, retains
moisture well. It also tends to be more
nutrient-rich than other soil types. The
reason for this is that the particles that make
up clay soil are negatively charged, which
means they attract and hold positively
charged particles, such as calcium,
potassium, and magnesium.
Disadvantages of Clay Soil
In addition to the drawbacks mentioned
above, clay also has the following negative
qualities:
Slow draining
Slow to warm in the spring
Compacts easily, making it difficult for
plant roots to grow
Tendency to heave in winter
Tendency to be alkaline in pH
Improving Clay Soil
Improving your clay soil will take a bit of work, but the good news is that the
work you do will instantly improve the structure of your soil and make it
easier to work with. Most of the work is done up front, although some annual
chores are necessary to prolong the soil improvement.
It is best to improve an entire planting area all at once, rather than to attempt
improving the soil in individual planting holes as you need them. If you dig a
planting hole in clay soil, then drop in a plant and nicely amend only the soil
you're using to backfill, your plant will be happy for a little while. But you
have essentially done nothing more than create an in-ground flower pot.
Eventually, the plant will start sending out roots that will be stopped in their
tracks when they reach the clay walls of the planting hole. You'll end up with a
root-bound plant that it won't grow as large or as healthy as it should.
Start by defining the growing area for your garden bed. If you are improving
an existing bed, you can dig out any plants you want to keep and set them
aside in pots until your soil improvement is completed. If you are preparing a
brand new bed, you'll need to go through the basics of starting a new garden
bed.
Improving Clay Soil
To improve your soil, you'll need to add 6 to 8 inches of organic matter to the
entire bed. You can add any organic matter you can get your hands on. Grass
clippings (as long as they haven't been treated with chemicals), shredded leaves,
rotted manure, and compost are all perfect choices. Spread your organic matter
on top of the soil. Here's where the manual labor comes in. The organic matter
needs to be mixed into the top 6 to 12 inches of soil. Digging it in and mixing it
with a shovel is a great way to do this, as it moves a lot of earth without
pulverizing the soil particles the way tilling can. However, if digging is just too
hard on your back, using a tiller is a fine method.
When you're finished, your garden bed will be several inches higher than it was
originally, but this is not a problem. Your garden bed will settle some over the
course of a season as the organic material breaks down. The soil structure will
continue to improve as microorganisms in the soil work to break down all of
the organic matter you've added.
The bed can be planted immediately. Plan to add more organic matter in the
form of compost once or twice a year. This will continue the process of
improving the soil's structure and offset any settling that happens.
Figure: Clay Soil
Silt soil

Encyclopedic entry. Silt is a solid, dust-like

sediment that water, ice, and wind transport

and deposit. Silt is made up of rock and

mineral particles that are larger than clay but

smaller than sand.

Water erosion and control
Silty soils are most prone to water erosion, particularly in areas with a high rainfall
and where the ground slopes. Fields very susceptible to erosion commonly have
shallow channels or rills, or even larger deeper gullies, after heavy rain. Surface
water runoff happens when the intensity of rainfall is so great that all the water
cannot soak into the soil. Livestock managemen can also affect the amount of soil
erosion and runoff in grassland. Grazing with large numbers of stock in wet
conditions can cause serious poaching of the soil and compaction in
the topsoil which can lead to an increased risk of runoff.
Some cropping systems are much more prone to water erosion than others. The
most susceptible land use is when crops are harvested in the autumn under adverse
soil conditions which can happen with forage maize and field vegetables. Long
term leys and permanent pasture usually pose little risk. Soils with a good crop
cover are much less susceptible than where there are fine seedbeds and or bare
ground.
Reducing compaction, increasing soil organic matter, using green manures,
avoiding late planted autumn sown or harvested crops, planting buffer strips and
establishing grass leys can all help to reduce the risk of soil erosion on susceptible
fields.
Figure: Silt Soil
Loamy soil

 It is a combination of sand, silt and clay

 This soil is also referred to as agricultural

soil
What Loam Does for Plants
Because of the balance of ingredients, loam
is the ideal garden soil.1 Its texture is porous,
allowing water to flow through slowly
enough for the plants to access it but fast
enough to avoid waterlogged, soggy soil.
Loam is loose and crumbly in our hands.
This is referred to as friable. Loose soil
provides room for air to mix into the soil,
which is also necessary for optimal plant
growth. Loam is also nutrient-rich.
How to Create Loam for Your Garden
Although loam is a combination of sand, silt, and clay, adding sand to
your clay soil (or vice versa) will not create loam. Doing so will result in
something like cement.
Creating a loose, loamy, fertile soil is not a one-and-done garden task.
Turning your existing soil into loam is an ongoing process that involves
working organic matter into the soil every year. It is the decomposing
organic material that creates the well-draining conditions plants need. It
is also the organic matter that attracts the beneficial organisms that will
help keep the soil healthy and alive.
Unfortunately, organic matter is quickly depleted as it decomposes. It will
need to be amended each season. How much to add depends on how out
of balance your soil is. If your soil is extremely sandy or predominantly
heavy clay, it may need large amounts of organic matter added several
times a season. However, for most soils, laying down at least a 2-inch
layer of organic matter over the garden surface and then working it into
the top few inches of soil should do it.
How to Create Loam for Your Garden
A word of caution: Buying soil in bulk can be a fast, easy way
to get your garden or yard up and growing. But there is no
standard or certification for soil quality, so you never know
what you are getting. Many companies that sell soil are getting
that soil from construction sites, where soil has had to be
excavated for basements or to level a yard. Generally, soil
from excavation does not make ideal garden soil.
If you intend to buy soil, compost, mulch, or other bulk garden
material, know something about the company you are buying
from. Don't be afraid to ask questions. Bringing in poor soil
will not make your garden better and could actually set you
back in your quest for great soil. However, there are many
excellent soil companies who stand behind their products.
Figure: Loamy Soil
Peat soil

 Peat Soil organic soils containing more than 20% organic matter in various

degrees and states of decomposition. Deposits that are decayed slightly or not at

all are termed peat, while those that are markedly decomposed are called muck.

In peat deposits, the kind of plants that were deposited, particularly in the upper

layer can be differentiated. By contrast, muck is generally decomposed to the

point where the original plant parts cannot be identified. Peat may be quite

coarse or fine-structured, depending on the nature of the deposited plant

residues. On the other hand, well-decomposed mucks are often quite fine.
Formation
Peat forms when plant material does not fully decay in acidic
and anaerobic conditions. It is composed mainly of wetland
vegetation: principally bog plants including mosses, sedges,
and shrubs. As it accumulates, the peat holds water. This slowly
creates wetter conditions that allow the area of wetland to
expand. Peatland features can include ponds, ridges, and raised
bogs.The characteristics of some bog plants actively promote
bog formation. For example, Sphagnum mosses actively secrete
tannins, which preserve organic material. Sphagnum also have
special water retaining cells, known as Hyaline cells, which can
release water ensuring the bogland remains constantly wet
which helps promote peat production.
Types of peat material
Peat material is either fibric, hemic, or sapric. Fibric peats
are the least decomposed and consist of intact fibre. Hemic
peats are partially decomposed and sapric are the most
decomposed.
Phragmites peat are composed of reed grass, Phragmites
australis, and other grasses. It is denser than many other
types of peat.
Engineers may describe a soil as peat which has a relatively
high percentage of organic material. This soil is problematic
because it exhibits poor consolidation properties – it cannot
be easily compacted to serve as a stable foundation to
support loads, such as roads or buildings.
Figure: Peat Soil
Chalk soil

 Many chalky soils are shallow, very free-draining and low in

fertility, but variations exist. Where there is clay present, nutrient
levels may be higher and the water holding capacity greater

 Where chalky soils are deep, they can be moisture-retentive and

support a wide range of plants. They will not support ericaceous
plants such as camellia and rhododendrons that need acid soil
conditions. Very chalky soils may contain lumps of visible chalky
white stone. Such soils cannot be acidified, and it is better to choose
plants that will thrive in alkaline conditions.
When planting on chalky soils
Break up the chalk to a depth of 75cm (30in) so that
plant roots can spread out and establish
Whether bringing in new soil or improving existing soil,
add plenty of well-rotted organic matter such as garden
compost, composted green waste or farmyard manure
Smaller plants get established more quickly than more
mature specimens
Mulch plants with organic matter to conserve moisture
Attention to watering will be required for a longer period
than with other soil types as plants on chalky soils may
take several seasons to establish and are more prone to
drying
How to Fix Chalky Soil in Gardens
When you have chalky soil, you can just accept it
and plant alkaline tolerant plants or you can amend
the soil. You will still have to take some extra
measures to get alkaline loving plants to survive
with drainage issues from chalky soil. Adding mulch
around the plant crowns can help retain moisture,
extra watering may also be required. Chalky soils
are sometimes easy to identify by how they rarely
flood or puddle; water just runs right through. This
can be hard for new plants trying to get established.
Figure: Chalk Soil
Thank you