Textile Egeneering

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1.Vat Dye (Anionic when soluble)


1.1 Introduction
1.3 Chemical characteristics and general application conditions
1.4 Vat Dyeing Process
1.5 Textile Auxiliaries used vat dyeing
1.6 General description and main application of vat dyes
2. Sulfur Dye ( Anionic when soluble)
2.1 Introduction
2.2 Properties of sulfur dyes
2.3 Classification of Sulphur dyes
2.4 chemicals and auxiliaries
2.5 Sulphur dyes – use
2.6 General description and main application of sulphur dyes
1. Vat Dye (Anionic when soluble)

1.1 Introduction
 The dye is named from the container (Vat) that used for rotting the dye
with alkali solution. This crucial process will reduce the dye from
insoluble to soluble dye (suitable for exhaustion in the cellulosic fibers).
 Vat dyes are used most often in dyeing and printing of cotton and
cellulose fibres. They can also be applied for dyeing polyamide and
polyester blends with cellulose fibres.

 Now the manufacturer can synthesize man-made vat dye.


Because of the time consuming & costly procedure in reducing vat dye
into a water-soluble complex, dye manufacturers have produced a
stabilized water-soluble vat dye.
1.2 Properties of vat dye
 Vat dyes have excellent fastness properties and
are often used for fabrics that will be subjected to
severe washing and bleaching conditions
(toweling, industrial and military uniforms, etc.).
 The range of colours is wide, YELLOW GREEN
but shades are generally dull ORANGE OLIVE B
 Available in powder ,
RED BROWN
granules and liquid forms
BLUE NAVY
VIOLET BLACK
1.3 Chemical characteristics and general application conditions

 From a chemical point of view, vat dyes can be


distinguished into two groups: indigoid vat dyes
and anthraquinoid dyes. Indigo dyes are almost
exclusively used for dyeing warp yarn in the
production of blue denim.

Structure of AQ vat dye


Cont…
 Vat dyes are normally insoluble in water, but they
become water-soluble and substantive for the fibre
after reduction in alkaline conditions (vatting). They
are then converted again to the original insoluble
form by oxidation and in this way they remain fixed
into the fibre.
Cont…

Reduction and oxidation process of vat day


1.4 Vat Dyeing Process

1. Dissolve dye into water (insoluble dye)


2. Vatting process by reducing the insoluble
dye in alkali condition. (Soluble dye)
3. Absorb into fibers (soluble dye)
4. After dyeing, oxidize the dye with oxidizing
agent (insoluble dye)
5. Wash and soap the goods( after treatment
process)
1.5 Textile Auxiliaries used vat dyeing

1. Salt - reduce the negative charges on the fibers


2. Sodium hydroxide - adjusts pH to the dyeing
bath and makes the suitable conditions for
reducing agent.
3. Sodium hydrosulfite - reducing agent for the vat
dyes.
4. Water - dyeing media
5. Oxidizing agents - (Hydrogen peroxide or Acetic
acid or Air) oxidize the soluble to insoluble dye
1.6 General description and main application of vat
dyes
Dye
Main
Clas General description
application
s
Vat Difficult to apply (requires Commonly
reduction treatment to make used for
soluble in water & oxidation high quality
to resume insoluble state cotton
after dyeing); most goods, e.g.
expensive; towel;
incomplete colour range specially
(strong in blue & green but used in the
weak in brilliant red); good all dyeing of
round fastness except indigo denim
& sulphurised vat species;
Introduction to Coloration & Finishing
fabric. 9
2. Sulfur Dye ( Anionic when soluble)
2.1 Introduction
• The first Sulphur dye was discovered in France in 1873, &
further work done by Raymond Videl enabled the
manufacture of 'Videl black".
• The dyeing process has the same process as described in
the vat dye except that using Sodium sulfide instead of
Sodium hydrosulfide.
• Like vat dye, sulphur dyes are insoluble in water, but after
reduction under alkaline conditions they are converted
into the leuco form, which is water-soluble and has high
affinity for the fibre. After absorption into the fibre they
are oxidised and converted to the original insoluble state.
2.2 Properties of sulfur dyes
 Main Properties of the Sulfur Dyes are as Follows:

1.Economical dyeing with excellent tinctorial value and good


build up properties. The main advantage lays in their cheapness,
ease of application & good wash-fastness.

2.Good overall colorfastness properties such as wash fastness ,


light fastness , perspiration fastness etc. Moderate fastness to
crocking and poor fastness to chlorines bleaching agents such as
bleaching powder and sodium hypochlorite.

3.Limited shade range to produce only dull shades and there is


no true red dye in the range. That is the general disadvantage of
the Sulphur dyes
Cont…
4. These dyes can be applied by exhaust, semi continuous or
continuous dyeing methods on garment , yarn , knits, fabric as well
as loose stock etc.

5. Available in powder , granules and liquid forms.

6. Sulphur black 1 is the major black dye used world vide for dyeing
of cellulosics.

7. The conventional dyeing process is not environment friendly due


to pollution problems of sodium sulphide as well as sod/pot.
Dichromates.

8. When dyed by using non polluting reducing and oxidizing agents


the process is environment friendly.
2.3 Classification of Sulphur dyes
 Sulphur dyes are available in various modifications,
which are classified under the following names:
A. sulphur dyes - available as amorphous powders or
dispersible pigments.
 Amorphous powders are insoluble or partially soluble in
water and are brought into solution by boiling with
sodium sulphide and water.
 Dispersible pigments can be used in this form for pad
dyeing in presence of a dispersing agent. They can
contain a certain amount of reducing agent already in
the formulation and in this case are called "partly
reduced pigments".
Cont…

B. leuco-sulphur dyes (ready-for-use dyes) -


available in liquid form and already contain
the reducing agent required for dyeing.
Therefore they must simply be diluted with
water before application. Low-sulphide types
are also available on the market
Cont…
C. Water-soluble sulphur dyes - available in the
form of Bunte salts (Col-S-SO3Na) obtained by
treating the dye in its insoluble form (Col-S-S-
Col) with sodium hydrosulphite. They can be
dissolved in hot water, but they do not have
affinity for the fibre. The addition of alkali
and reducing agent makes them substantive
for the fibre.
2.4 chemicals and auxiliaries
 Reducing agents : Sodium sulphide and sodium
hydrogensulphyde are generally employed as reducing
agents to bring into solution the dye (unless ready-for-use
sulphur dyes are applied). Binary systems made of
glucose and sodium dithionite (hydrosulphite) or thiourea
dioxide are also used as alternative reducing agents.
 Oxidising agents : In all processes the dye is finally fixed
on the substrate by oxidation. Nowadays, hydrogen
peroxide or halogen-containing compounds such as
bromate, iodate and chlorite are the most commonly
used oxidising agents.
Cont…
 Apart from the above-mentioned reducing and oxidising
agents, additional chemicals and auxiliaries required when
dyeing with sulphur dyes are:
1. Alkali (mainly caustic soda)
2. Salt (sodium chloride and sulphate)
3. Dispersing agents: usually they are naphthalenesulphonic
acid-formaldehyde condensates, ligninsulphonates and
sulphonated oils
4. Complexing agents: EDTA and polyphosphates are used
in some cases to prevent negative effects due to the
presence of alkaline-earth ions.
2.5 Sulphur dyes - use
 The use of Sulphur dyes is restricted to dull
brown, Khaki & Navy shades, where a good
wash but not boil-fastness is required.
 Most Khaki & Navy overalls are dyed with
Sulphur dyes.
 An outstanding member of this family is
Sulphur black.
 It dyes all cellulose fibres, but particularly
linen & jute, to a lustrous & deep black with
excellent wash & light fastness.
18
2.6 General description and main application of
sulphur dyes
Dye Main
General description
Class application
Sulphur Difficult to apply Mostly used
(application similar to for heavy
vat dyes); cheap cellulosic
particularly for dark goods in dark
shade; incomplete shades.
black, navy, khaki &
colour range (strong in
brown but no bright
shade); poor washing &
rubbing fastness &
sensitive to chlorine;
may cause fabric
Introduction to Coloration & Finishing 19

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