Cream-filled pastries are a familiar sight this time of the year in Finland.
The seasonal treat has a history dating back more than a century — but nowadays bakers are adding new twists to cater to modern tastes and special diets.
Known as laskiaispulla in Finnish, they typically consist of a cardamom-spiced wheat bun that is split and filled with either almond paste or jam (generally strawberry or raspberry) and a generous layer of whipped cream. For sweet lovers, this rich, creamy indulgence is nirvana with a hefty helping of sugar and calories; but that makes it all the more appealing for true dessert devotees.
"In Swedish-speaking Finland, a laskiaispulla or fastlagsbulle was initially eaten with warm milk and was named hetvägg. This came from the German buns named heisse wecken or heisswecken,” says Yrsa Lindqvist, ethnologist and senior archivist at the Society of Swedish Literature in Finland (SLS).
The laskiaispulla is traditionally eaten during laskiainen, or Shrovetide—the week preceeding Lent, a period of fasting for Christians during the lead-up to Easter.
In Finland, laskiaissunnuntai, the Sunday before Shrove Tuesday, has historically involved sledging -- an activity that helps children to build up an appetite for the creamy treats; although that has become more difficult in recent years as southern regions get used to an increasingly snowless February.
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On the day before the fast begins, laskiaistiistai or Shrove Tuesday, the tradition was to eat a fatty meal—pea soup with pork and hetvägg—so one could gain a lot of energy “for the last time.” Some Finns still enjoy their laskiaispulla as it was originally eaten, dipped in warm milk.
The shrove bun became common in Finland in the 18th and 19th century, with advertisements for the treats first appearing in newspapers from about 1860–70.
According to Juha Nirkko, senior archivist at the Finnish Literature Society (SKS), the buns were originally a delicacy enjoyed by the gentry. The modern version of the confection, which includes the almond paste and cream, first emerged at the beginning of the twentieth century. The jam variation gained popularity in the 1980s, but was initially developed as a cheaper alternative to the original.
"It was easier for poorer people and peasants to add homemade jam between their wheat buns, rather than buy expensive filling or the finished product," says Nirkko.
New takes on an old favourite
While arguments rage over whether the bun is best with almond paste or jam, new variations of the laskiaispulla, with non-traditional fillings such as chocolate or caramel, are gaining popularity. Café Esplanad in downtown Helsinki serves a chocolate version that contains a hazelnut-chocolate paste in place of the more traditional filling.
"The original almond and strawberry jam ones are more popular," reveals Manna Varpanen, baker and pastry chef at Café Esplanad. "The chocolate ones are more tourist-based I think, because they’re very rich and sweet."
Café Artist, located in Svenska Teatern or the Swedish Theatre in Helsinki, has also introduced a new form of the sweet treat. Inspired by the traditional Swedish layer cake known as Princess Cake, the buns in Café Artist come in bright shades of green and red. The pastries get their colour from an extra layer of almond paste, and have proven to be popular among customers.
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"People have been calling and reserving them beforehand for the entire month," says Olivia Casagrande, shift manager at Café Artist.
Vegan options of the bun have also started making an appearance. Blogger Elina Innanen made her own vegan version last year, using an eggless dough, coconut milk and vegan cream: a recipe she has been developing for 20 years. Now, she says, given the availability of a wide range of dairy-free alternatives, vegan options are becoming increasingly common.
"This year it has been a lot easier to find vegan pullas in cafés and grocery stores. I just had one in my favourite cafe in Turku when I went there last week, and even the grocery stores here in Helsinki stock these vegan treats."
Growing demand for seasonal buns
Although the bun is traditionally eaten only during Shrovetide, its growing popularity has led cafés and bakeries to stock up on supplies from January onwards, with many continuing to offer the pastry even after the pre-Lenten season ends.
"We have been selling more buns every year for three years in a row," says Managing Director of Fazer Retail Finland Miika Kostilainen. "Nowadays, we start the season at the beginning of January and continue until the end of February. This year, shrove buns became a best-selling article in the second week of February."
The season is a busy one for smaller cafés and large corporations alike.
"During laskiaistiistai and laskiais-Sunday Café Esplanad sells approximately 500 pieces," states Varpanen. “The demand increased last week and we started making higher quantities: over a hundred per day.”
According to Jari Elonen, the chair of the committee of the Finnish Bakery Federation and CEO of Elonen Bakery, his firm produces over 300,000 buns during January–February.
Fazer, meanwhile, expects to sell about 17,000 shrove buns in Fazer Café and Gateau outlets on Tuesday.
While delicious and popular, part of the attraction of laskiaispulla is their seasonality — they are not widely available after Shrove Tuesday. Those wishing to indulge their sweet tooth, whether with the classic bun or a modern version, should do so during the high season for the creamy buns.