The Marabu project (so named after the famous poem of sailor - poet Nikos Kavvadias) is a project initiated by Konstantinos and Petros Sofikitis, an exploration of the Aegean Islands in an attempt to showcase the personal stories of the islanders and preserve the customs, lifestyle, professions and the authentic character of an Aegean which fast becomes the victim of global tourism and the loss of its young population to the large urban centers.
The two men and their co-workers aim to explore thoroughly 78 inhabited islands, take photos, collect the experiences of the locals, make exhibitions and books and eventually a cinematic documentary. The newspaper Kathimerini made a tribute about the project recently and I am just adding below a few of the pictures and their respective stories that I found captivating.
Sosa, 88, Ikaria island. At the age of 6 she left with her family for (then) Belgian Congo. Her early memories there include witnessing gang rapes and hanging of children she used to know and play with. Her family returned to Greece where at her pre-teens she would fetch food and water to a leftist guerilla hiding close to her house, during the Greek Civil War. The young man promised to marry her once the war was over. A few days later she saw his head carried in the harbour of the island. As Sosa was growing up she lost her eyesight and she was treated as mentally unstable. She emigrated to Germany where a therapist realised her bad vision did not have a pathological cause but a psychological one. The therapist urged her to do what she loved, composing little poems in the Ikarian rhythm. After years of therapy, Sosa gradually regained her vision. She returned to Athens and then back to her island for life. She considered herself responsible for the death of her first love up till her 70s, believing she had unwillingly done something that revealed the hiding man’s location, until destiny at some point made her hear the man who had cut her love’s head boast about it in an accidental encounter in Naxos island… Sosa has been the first female violin teacher in the island, she writes poetry and articles for the local newspaper and adds verses from Aristophanes in the folk Ikarian songs so “kids will learn them more easily”.
Ilias Kourtzis, Lesvos island. His family has a pottery legacy since 1820. He is the last one to continue the family tradition.
Manolis Kokkonis, Patmos island. Thirty years a sailor, he was - in his wife’s words - one of the very few brave enough who dared do preservation works down in the anchor chain spot.
Akathi, Iraklia island. The captainess fishes on her own the fish she then serves in her tavern.
The Klimis family, Kalymnos island. The Klimis family is sort of a legend in Kalymnos because nobody knows exactly their whereabouts. The explorers managed to locate them, not without a lot of legwork. They are all shepherds who live as recluses but they welcomed the explorers with notable warmth. They offered them a big quantity of wild greens (ingredients for a loved salad in Greece) they had collected as a parting gift. Mr Michalis in particular said: “We were born here, we shall die here. This olive tree over here is 2,000 years old and offers us everything it has; olives, oil, shadow. And yet we fight over who it belongs to”.
Miltos Makris, Milos island. “I have some trouble (affectionate) 52 years now, my wife. She’s been putting up with me for 52 years, isn’t this awesome? When I was still working at the port as a lineman, Angelina Jolie showed up in the ship’s stern with some Asian kids and some Arabic kids (clearly refers to her adopted children). They asked me, do you know who that is? Why, does she know who I am? Overrated chick, you should see my wife and your jaw would drop! We sit together now and we share a good laugh, no mumbling for us. Two souls. Mutual respect and love is all it takes.”
Chrysa Kazala, 80, Ikaria island. Chrysa can trace her family history back to the 16th century, when pirates tied her ancestor to the mast and were intending to execute him for sharing food with the crew. However, it was getting dark and they left his execution for the next day because muslims did not execute after the sunset. In the meantime, her ancestor managed to free himself from his ropes and fell into the sea. He was collected by Ikarian pirates who looked after him and then married him to their sister. Chrysa, married and divorced twice, prefers her solitude - even if you have a relationship, it is better to live in separate houses, she maintains - and travelling, her peak journey being that in Antartica in 2006.
Mr Markos, 95, with his wife, Amorgos island. Mr Markos is a coffee shop owner. At his age Mr Markos faces some difficulties with his senses, his speech and his walk, yet when asked, he answered this was the happiest phase of his life because there is no bigger blessing than having your great grandchildren living and working in the space and the workplace you have created. When asked to get photographed, he answered: “Everything I have accomplished in my life and I am proud of, I owe it to my wife, therefore I can’t be photographed on my own, I want you to take a photo of us together”.
These photos and the stories belong to the Marabu Project as presented by Kathimerini newspaper in this article here, which also offers more stories as well as the sentiment of the islanders in regards to their place in the Greek society, the emigration of the young people and the treatment by the Greek state. The article is in Greek.
The Marabu Project also has its own website. From the website, you can download a free pdf from a small book about the South Aegean islands (a few Cycladic and a few Dodecanesian ones). All the texts are in both Greek and English. Features beautiful landscape photography as well. I haven’t checked the stories yet as it is 70 pages long. This book is to my understanding only part of the ongoing project which aspires to cover all the Aegean islands. The link for the free book here.