Folding

UNIT 6 FOLDING
Structure
6.1 Introduction
Objectives

6.2 Folding
6.2.1 Hand Folding (Manual)
6.2.2 Machine Folding

6.3 Types of Folding

6.3.1 Straight Folding
6.3.2 Concave Curve Folding
6.3.3 Convex Curve Folding

6.4 Machine Safety

6.5 Summary
6.6 Key Words

6.1 INTRODUCTION
In this unit, you should be able to understand about folding, different methods of folding,
types of folding, adhesive used for folding, reinforcement used under folding, hand
folding, machine folding (thermo-folding machine), its parts and functions, safety points
to keep in mind while working on the machine, tools used during machine and hand
folding. All concernd activities help you to produce quality and productivity.
Objectives
After studying this unit, you should be able to
• understand and do hand folding,
• do folding on straight edge component,
• do folding on convex and concave curves,
• know the use of different tools and accessories used during folding,
• understand safety measures during hand and machine folding, and
• understand quality measures required for folding.

6.2 FOLDING
Folding is the process of turning over the skived edge of a shoe upper component to form
a folding look called folding. It is a kind of edge treatment normally done on edges and
on the top lines of upper to enhance the look of the shoe. Sometimes this operation is also
called BEADING. Folding can be done in following ways :
• By hand (manual operation)
• By Machine
6.2.1 Hand Folding (Manual)
This type of folding is carried out manually by hand with the help of hand tools. The
amount of skill is required more in operator’s hand to perform quality folding. Straight
folding is easy as compared to the convex and concave curves. The folding allowance is
given 4-5 mm and skiving is carried out according to the thickness of the material. The
folding edges are mostly reinforced with 2-4 mm reinforcement tape. 53
Basics of Sewing Folding is the process of turning over the edge of a component, which has already been
skived or unskived in case of thin and soft material. Folding could be done by hand or by
thermo-folding machine. The amount of folding is depending upon the material, normally
the folding allowance is 4 mm and it can vary according to material type. Before folding,
reinforcement tape is attached (especially on top lines) as per the requirement of design
and buyer.
Folding Method
Pleats are being provided on the convex curve at a distance of 2 mm with the help
of picker’s tip in order to flattened the skived surface to achieve proper folding and
stitching. The width of the pleats depends on the nature of material. Apply
compatible adhesive on skiving areas with the help of suitable and advisable
applicator. By keeping that piece over the work stone, hold your left thumb finger
on piece, and with first finger turn over the edge of the components, third finger
work as guide on material. Use right hand 1-4 finger holding a hammer, the thumb
finger give force and holding the hammer. In this manner, hammer the edge of the
components slightly and in a rhythm. During folding hammering should be done
close to the first finger, this is the secret of the job. The pleated area should be neat
and even to obtain even stitches.
Tools and Accessories
To achieve quality folding we require following tools and accessories during
folding. These tools and accessories are required to be maintained in proper place
and having proper maintenance accordingly.
• Work stone, folding hammer, reinforcement tape, adhesive pot,
sponge, brush, brush container, prick marker and scissor.
• Work stone is require for the base of the material to be fold and
hammering is done. The surface of the stone should be neat and clean
to protect the grain layer of the component.
• Folding hammer should be light and small for comfortable grip in
operator’s hand and base should be rounded and smooth without any
sharp edges.
• Reinforcement tape should be specified (2-4mm) nylon braided and
dipped into the adhesive before fixing under the folding allowance.
• Adhesive pot should be neat and clean and have proper lid or cover on
top of it during use. It should be clean properly before refilling.
• Sponge pieces are used to apply the adhesive and can be replaced by
the adhesive application brush.
• Brush container keeps the brush always in useable condition and
increase the life of the brush.
• Prick marker is used during folding for pleating the convex curves,
where excess material is adjusted accordingly.
• Scissors is used to make nicks on concave curves and for cutting
purpose.
6.2.2 Machine Folding
Folding can be done by machine. It reduces time and labour because it automatically
applies adhesive, make cuts and pleats and attach reinforcing string along with the
folding margin. Now modern machines are available with some additional advantage of
folding insole cover, platform cover and French binding. Polyamide hot melt adhesive is
used in this machine, which is flexible and not very hard in nature like other hot melt
cement.
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Thermo-folding Machine
 Folding operation is considered to be the main bottleneck in closing department. Folding
This machine is expensive but most suitable for higher productivity and quality
during folding. It reduces time and labour because it eliminates the need for hand
cementing, drying time, manual snipping and application of reinforcing string as it
does these operations automatically. Modern machines are available with some
additional advantages of folding insole covers, platform covers and French
binding. Two types of folding machines are available (ordinary and electronic
programming) under this category.

SAQ 1
(a) Describe hand folding in your own words.
(b) Explain different tools required during hand folding.
(c) Explain machine folding.
(d) Describe the hand folding method.
(e) Explain advantage and disadvantages of hand folding.
(f) Explain the advantages and disadvantages of machine folding in comparison
to hand folding.

6.3 TYPES OF FOLDING

Types of folding are :
(i) Straight Edge folding.
(ii) Concave curve edge folding.
(iii) Convex curve edge folding.
6.3.1 Straight Folding
Folding on straight edge of the component is called straight folding. This kind of folding
is easy in nature and hence enhances the productivity. Material type and quality skiving
plays an important role during folding.
Method
Select a 10 × 4 cm straight strip. Use skiving machine for fold skiving. Normally
the fold skive is double in width of folding margin (depends on the nature of
material) provided in the patterns. If the folding margin is 5 mm then the folding
skiving width will be 10 mm, in case of thick material 1 mm roll over allowance is
given during skiving. Apply suitable adhesive on skiving areas and place the
component on work stone. Hold the component with your left thumb and fingers, 55
Basics of Sewing and start hammering by folding hammer with your right hand. The index finger of
left hand will used to turn over the edge of the component and rest fingers will
work as a guide during folding.

First Step of Folding

Figure 6.1 : Straight Folding

6.3.2 Concave Curve Folding

Concave curves are those areas, where there is less area on the outer edges as compared
to the inner edge during folding. This nature of edge is required to make nicks/cuts before
folding, which helps the area to expand to some extent and folding takes place. But the
nick or the cuts are to be given in equal distance from each other and the depth should be
less than half of the folding margin. During folding concave curves, one should follow
the right techniques in order to achieve quality and productivity. When material is folded,
outer edge becomes too short to enable the outer edge to retain the same length that is
why nicks are given.

Figure 6.2 : Concave Curve

Method
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 Nicks or cuts are given on the concave curve at a distance of 2 mm with scissor tip Folding
in order to widen the edge to achieve proper folding. The length of the nicks
should only be 1.5 to 2 mm to avoid visibility from topside. The nicks should not
be deep more than half the width of the folding allowance. Apply compatible
adhesive on skiving areas with the help of suitable and advisable applicator. In
case of latex adhesive, apply only one coat on material surface (skived area) and
proper drying time should be given. Keep the piece over the work stone and hold it
with your left hand, with the help of thumb and fingers turns over the components
edge by guiding the material. Hammering should be done with another hand on the
folding margin with gentle pressure and rhythm. During folding, the hammering
should be done close to the first finger, this is the secret of the job.

6.3.3 Convex Curve Folding

Convex curves are those lines, which tend to move outside in between the edge of the
forthcoming lines in the component. During folding convex curve, one should follow the
right techniques in order to achieve quality and productivity. When material is folded on
convex curves, the outer edge of the component becomes too long as compared to the
inner area. To enable the outer edge to retain the same length and curve the edge must be
reduced. The extra length is pleated at several places.

Figure 6.3 : Convex Curve

Different Curves of Component

Method 57
Basics of Sewing Pleats are being provided on the convex curve at a distance of 2 mm with the help
of picker’s tip in order to flatten the skived surface to achieve proper folding. The
width of the pleats depends on the nature of material. Apply compatible adhesive
on skiving areas with the help of suitable and advisable applicator. In case of latex
adhesive, it is advisable that it should apply only one coat on material surface
(skived area). Keep the piece over the work stone and hold it with your left thumb
and index finger. With the first finger turn over the edge of the component over the
skiving area and with right hand do the hammering. Pleating should be made
during folding with the help of left index finger or by tip of the pricker. The
pleated area should be neat and uneven to avoid any bumps during fitting and
attaching.
Strips
Strips are normally straight or in slight curves according to fashion and design.
Straight folding does not require much efforts as compared to the convex and
concave curves during folding. In shoe upper stitching industry, various
components are used in shoe making which have their own methods and way of
performing.
Method of Strip Folding
Select specified strips and do necessary operations prier to the folding. Normally
these operations are splitting, edge colour, stamping, marking and skiving. The
thickness of the material should be maintained accordingly during skiving. Apply
suitable adhesive (Neoprene/Polychloroprene/PU/Latex) on the skived area of
strip. Remember always, use adhesive with the advisable applicator. The
specification of the applicator should be according to the strips width.
Proper drying time should be given before folding and it is good to use any drying
stand or chamber. The adhesive should not spread over the other side of the
component as it may spoil the grain structure of it. Pick up the component and
place it on the work stone by grain side down. Hold both outside edges with your
left thumb and fore finger. Pickup folding hammer by right hand and start slow
press down at the beginning of top edges. While sliding the piece both sides of the
strip must meet in the center. Keep this method until you reach to the end of the
strip.
Basic Quality/Standard of the Strips
• Strip to be permanently stuck.
• Edges to meet in the centre of the strip.
• Grain surface is not to be damaged.
• Re-enforcement tape should be used according to the buyer’s specification.
• Always maintain the quality standards.
Folding on Different Components
• Buckle Straps
• Toe Cap
• Vamp
• Eyelet facing
Points to be Considered During Folding
• To maintain quality and productivity one should keep following things in
their mind during folding.
• Used grooved pressure foot to leave marks on the grain side for easy folding
58 and to maintain required width.
 • Adhesive brushes should always be clean and store in solvent. The solvent Folding
may be MEK (Methyl Ethylene Key tone) or thinner.
• Latex is generally applied with the help of foam in upper closing line, but
spray is the best method to apply it.

• Latex adhesive is used for folding purpose due to its economical viability
and it is easy to rectify the folding margin against any correction.
• Folding operation is done after skiving the edge of thick material and can
also be performed without any skiving in case of thin material. Due to
reduction of material causes loss of strength after skiving, it is advisable to
use suitable reinforcement tape in those areas during folding. Normally
2-4 mm Braided Nylon reinforcement tape is used for necessary strength.

Safety
• In order to achieve quality and productivity, we should always follow the
good working habits; the concern authorities give basic safety measures and
general instructions.
• Solvent base adhesive is highly inflammable material, so it should be used
as per the instructions given and proper training should be provided to the
users.
• All kind of adhesives is kept in airtight conditions and used under proper
ventilation and exhausting system.
• Be aware of hand folding tools like hammer scissors, and blunt knife during
operation as it may create problem, which may hamper the production and
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health of an operator.
Basics of Sewing • Always wear appropriate footwear and clothing during working in
workshop.
• Avoid contact solvent with skin, always use brush, and in case of any
contact between skin and solvent immediately wash off with suitable
cleaner.
• Know your fire drill and its uses in case of different kinds of fire.

6.4 MACHINE SAFETY

(i) Switch off the machine when not in use.
(ii) Do not do your own electrical repairs.
(iii) Switch on the machine half an hour in advance of work.
(iv) Switch off the heating switch when not in use.
(v) Operator will sit squarely on the chair within reach of the material and
controls.
(vi) Operator thigh will be parallel to the floor when seated.
(vii) Operator have long hair will use hair band.
(viii) Avoid wearing loose cloths during machine operation.
(ix) Avoid touching cement pot, head, creaser foot, and adhesive.
(x) Do not push the work through your hand. Let the machine feed it.
(xi) Know your fire drill.
(xii) In case of any accident, no matter how minor it is, inform your instructors.
(xiii) Before replacing any part, switch off the Machine.
SAQ 2
(a) Explain method of concave curve folding.
(b) Explain method of convex curve folding.
(c) Describe points to be taken care during folding.
(d) Describe safety measures to be followed during hand folding.
(e) Describe safety measures to be followed during machine folding.

6.5 SUMMARY
In this unit, we learnt about the folding, its type and different ways of performing it.
Hand folding is the manual operation, generally used in small and medium production
units with fewer infrastructures. Hand folding operation is more laborious and requires
more skill to perform it. On the other hand it is not very productive and quality assurance
as compared to the machine folding. Thermo-folding machine is used for higher
productivity and requires a skilled operator to operate different features of machine.
Proper tools and accessories are required to be used during folding and quality should be
maintained in all areas. Safety measures are strictly required to be followed while
working with machine and tools.
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 Folding
6.6 KEY WORDS
Beading : Hammering.
Reinforcement : Extra material used for strengthening purposes.
Pleating : Creasing the wider area of concave edge during
folding.
Work Stone : A square or rectangle piece of stone used as a base
for hand folding.
Prick Marker : A pointed tip used for making pleats during hand
folding.
MEK : A kind of chemical solvent, which is used for
softening the brush.
Thinner : A kind of chemical solvent, which is used for
softening the brush.
Grooved Pressure Foot : Pressure foot having grooved cut to make
impression.
Braided : Different edges of the material weaved or knotted
together.

FURTHER READINGS
Essential of Sewing, Upper Closing, Handouts FDDI.

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Basics of Sewing

BASICS OF SHOE UPPER STITCHING

Basics of sewing technology in itself is a specialized branch of Footwear Technology.
The method of making a complete shoe is also influenced by availability of skill, material
and changing fashion. This makes a sincere attempt to expose you to latest sewing
practices in footwear industry and took create an urge to learn move about them. Sewing
62 is the initial activity that is taken up in shoe making technology. It is the result of the
successive number of stitches on a component having specified stitch length and number Folding
of stitches per unit. As shoe industry become fashion and cost oriented this eliminates the
manual operations in stitching and hence sewing machinery came in to existence for
quality and productive work

BASICS OF SHOE UPPER STITCHING

Shoe upper stitching, in itself, is a specialised branch of Footwear Technology. It
involves the use of various types of equipment, each type being available in various
capacities. As shoe industry becomes fashion and cost oriented, this eliminates the
manual operations in stitching and hence automation came into existence for quality and
productive work. 63
Basics of Sewing This course of Basics of Shoe Upper Stitching comprises three blocks.
Block 1 introduces basic knowledge about sewing, various types of equipment and
sequence of operations. Moreover, light is thrown on the method of folding for
components of different shapes, quality standard and safety measures.
Block 2 deals with the material and tools required for upper assembly in making shoe
durable, comfortable and attractive.
Block 3 focusses on sewing machines required for stitching upper by becoming a
productive efficient and quality sewing work.
The blocks for further reading also help you to fill the gaps, if any.

BASICS OF SEWING
Sewing is the result of successive number of stitches on a component, having specified
stitch length and number of stitches per unit. Unit of stitch can be defined either as
centimetre or inch as per the specifications given by the buyer. There are wide variety of
functional and decorative stitches in practice which have their own purposes and
methods. Fancy stitching is typically done with the help of fine thread and small size
needle. Decorative and heavy stitching is done by higher size of thread and needle on
64 heavy-duty sewing machine.
This block consists of 6 units. Folding

In Unit 1, different types of stitch formation, various types of sewing machines required
for stitching uppers and safety measures with good working habits are introduced.
In Unit 2, attention is drawn to the initial preparation of cut components before fitting
and stitching, various marking methods with different patterns available and use of
pricker and related accessories in detail. Moreover, it covers the space productivity and
work ticket checking points for a given job.
In Unit 3, different types of skiving, skiving specifications and use of various equipment
are discussed. Lastly, in this unit, factors that help us to assess health and safety measure
are introduced.
In Unit 4, light is thrown on the factors that help us to choose the right type and size of
needle and thread used for different seams. Moreover, this unit covers seam strength,
treatment of seam and reinforcement at the area of given job.
Unit 5 gives a detailed discussion about the classification of types of edge and top line
treatments. Attachment of English/French binding are also discussed in this unit.
In Unit 6, concepts of folding and its type/different methods of folding,
adhesive/reinforcement used in machine folding, its parts and functions are discussed.
This unit focuses on the quality control, health and safety measures in working
environment.

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