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Bursting Strength of Knitted Fabrics Produced from of Polybutylene

Terephthalate (PBT) Yarns with Different False-Twist Texturing Parameters

Conference Paper · July 2018

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Halil İbrahim Çelik Esin Sarioglu

Gaziantep University Gaziantep University Faculty of Fine Arts
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 Bursting Strength of Knitted Fabrics
Produced from of Polybutylene Terephthalate
(PBT) Yarns with Different False-Twist
Texturing Parameters
Halil İbrahim Çelik, Esin Sarıoğlu, Hatice Kübra Kaynak

Gaziantep University, Textile Engineering Department, Gaziantep / TURKEY

Corresponding author:tuluce@gantep.edu.tr

Abstract
Polybuthylene Terephtalate (PBT) is a semi-aromatic polyester. It provides advantages such as high
elasticity, ease of dyeing at lower temperatures. Due to its especially high elasticity property, PBT fiber
became popular in textile industry with an increasing rate and used for the production of many textile
applications such as; underwear, sport cloths, carpet, hosiery etc. In this study, it is intended to reveal the
effect of temperature of heating zone and draw ratio on bursting strength and distension performances of
the knitted fabric samples produced form PBT yarns. For this aim, partially oriented (POY) 110 dtex/24
filament PBT yarn samples were applied to false-twist texturing process with three different heating
temperatures (175, 200, 225 0C) and three different draw ratios (1.2, 1.4, 1.6). Totally, 9 false-twist
textured stretch PBT yarn samples were produced. Then, knitted fabric samples were prepared under
same conditions and with same fabric structural parameters. In order to obtain bursting strength and
bursting distension values, the knitted fabric samples were applied bursting strength test. It was
concluded that temperature parameter has a significant effect only on bursting distension performance
and draw ratio has significant effect on both bursting strength and distension performances.
Keywords: Bursting strength, Bursting distension, Polybuthylene terephtalate, Texturing, False-twist

1. INTRODUCTION
Polybuthylene Terephtalate (PBT) is a semi-aromatic polyester. The polymer production of PBT is similar to
Polyethylene Terephtalate (PET) synthesis and involves direct esterification and ester interchange
polymerization (Figure 1). During the condensation reaction of the dihydric alcohol with terephthalic acid,
ethylene glycol is replaced by butanediol with four methylene groups [1]. PBT had a lower Tdi (initial
degradation temperature) value, lower tensile strength and similar surface characteristics compared to regular
PET. On the other hand, PBT has higher stretch and recovery performance than standard PET. Besides, PBT
provides a good form fitting property to the fabric and chlorine resistance [2,3]. These performance properties
make PBT fibers suitable for swimsuits. Due to their especially high elasticity property, PBT fibers became
popular in textile industry with an increasing rate and used for the production of many textile applications
such as; underwear, sport cloths, carpet, hosiery etc.
In order to introduce more softness, bulk, warmth and extensibility, synthetic continuous filaments yarns are
exposed to some mechanical, thermal or chemical processes. These processes are called as texturing. The

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texturing process parameters have significant effects on physical and mechanical characteristics of the
filament yarns. Since the yarn properties have important influence on fabric performance, it is considered that
the texturing parameters may affect the fabric mechanical properties.

Figure 1. Molecular formula of PET and PBT [4]

In literature, there are some studies on PET and PBT fiber properties and also influence of texturing
parameters of these fibers on yarn and fabric performance properties [3-9].
In this study, it is intended to reveal the effect of temperature of heating zone and draw ratio on knitted fabric
bursting strength performance. For this aim, partially oriented (POY) 110 dtex/24 filament PBT yarn samples
were applied false-twist texturing process with three different heating temperatures (175, 200, 225 0C) and
three different draw ratios (1.2, 1.4, 1.6). Totally, 9 false-twist textured stretch PBT yarn samples were
produced. Then, knitted fabric samples were prepared under same conditions and with same fabric structural
parameters. In order to obtain bursting strength and bursting distension values, the knitted fabric samples
were applied bursting strength test in accordance with BS EN ISO 13938-1:1999 standard. The effect of
texturing parameters (heating zone temperatures, draw ratios) on knitted fabric bursting strength was
investigated by performing ANOVA. The statistical software package SPSS 21.0 was used to interpret the
experimental data. All test results were assessed at 95% confidence interval.

2. MATERIAL AND METHOD

In this study, 110 dtex/ 24 filaments PBT POY yarn was used as material. The yarn sample is applied false-
twist texturing process with three different temperatures; 175, 200, 225 0C and three different draw ratios;
1.2, 1.4, 1.6. Totally, 9 false-twist textured PBT yarn samples were obtained. Texturing process was carried
out by Oerlikon Barmag brand false-twist texturing machine. All texturing parameters given in Table 1 were
kept constant during the sample manufacturing. Yarn strength and elongation was done according to the
standard of ASTM D 2256-02. 110dtex/24 filament PBT POY yarn strength was 41.7 cN/tex and elongation
was 116%. Single jersey structure knitted fabric samples were then produced by using PBT yarn samples via
a 3.5” gauge, 22 fein and one feeder sample circular knitting machine at 20±2 rev/min production speed. The
fabric structural properties are submitted in Table 2.
The course and wale densities were measured according to TS EN 14971:2006 [10]. The fabric thickness and
fabric mass were determined in accordance with the standards TS 7128 EN ISO 5048:1998 [11], TS EN
12127:1999 [12], respectively. The yarn loop lengths were measured according to the standard TS EN
14970:2006 [13]. All the fabric samples were conditioned in standard atmosphere according to TS EN ISO
139 [14] (65±4% relative humidity and 20±2 0C temperature) for 24 h before the tests.
Table 1. Texturing parameters
Texturing speed, m/min 450
Disc surface speed / Yarn speed 1.90
% Spin Finish 1.2
Friction disc configuration 1+5+1

Table 2. Fabric structural properties

Thickness, Fabric mass, Loop density, Loop length,

Samples mm g/m² loops/cm2 mm

1 0.62 98 323 3.5

2 0.62 78 305 3.4
3 0.59 72 323 3.3
4 0.62 94 318 3.2
5 0.65 83 293 3.1
6 0.63 81 368 3.3
7 0.6 83 337 3.2
8 0.65 89 294 3.2

2
Bursting Strength of Knitted Fabrics Produced from of Polybutylene Terephthalate (PBT) Yarns with
Different False-Twist Texturing Parameters
Halil İbrahim Çelik , Esin Sarıoğlu, Hatice Kübra Kaynak
9 0.66 86 378 3

In order to obtain bursting strength and bursting distension values, the knitted fabric samples were applied
bursting strength test in accordance with BS EN ISO 13938-1:1999 standard [15]. James Heal Truburst
pneumatic bursting strength test device was used at 7.3 cm2 test area. The test sample was laid over
diaphragm and clamped by means of a circular clamping dome. Increasing compressed air pressure was
applied to the underside of the diaphragm and so the diaphragm and fabric was forced to distention. The
pressure was increased smoothly until the test specimen burst. The bursting strength and distension are
measured. The measurements were repeated five times from different parts of the samples. After five bursting
measurements were completed, diaphragm correction procedure was applied. In this procedure, the
diaphragm was distended without the presence of the specimen with the same test area and same rate of
increase in volume to burst the previous specimen tests. Then, the pressure at this distension was noted as
diaphragm pressure and subtracted from the initial pressure values.

3. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Bursting strength results of the knitted fabric samples are given in Figure 2. It is observed that, as the draw
ratio of the filament during texturing process is increased, the bursting strength of the fabrics decreased for all
texturing temperatures. When the effect of temperature change is investigated for each draw ratio, it can be
said that there is no consistency or general trend for all draw ratios. For all draw ratio values, the bursting
strength values at 175 and 200 0C temperatures are close to each other. However, some difference is observed
for 225 0C values and other two temperature levels for all draw ratios.
Bursting distention results of the knitted fabric samples are given in Figure 3. Any remarkable difference is
not determined in relation to temperature and draw ratio changes.

Figure 2. Bursting strength results of fabric samples

Figure 3. Bursting distension results of fabric samples

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 In order to determine the effect of independent variables; texturing temperature and draw ratio on fabric
bursting strength and distension, AVONA was applied in %95 confidence level. As it can be followed from
Table 3, temperature parameter has a significant effect only on bursting distension performance. Draw ratio
has significant effect (p<0.05) on both bursting strength and distension performances. When the interaction
between temperature and draw ratio are considered, there is a statistically significant interaction between
these independent variables for both bursting strength and distention.
In order to determine which temperature level provide statistically significant difference on bursting
distention, multiple comparison test was done (Table 4). It is seen that 225 oC temperature has a statistically
significant difference from 200 oC temperature level by providing higher bursting distention values.

Table 3. ANOVA for bursting strength and distention

Type III Sum
Source Dependent Variable of Squares df Mean Square F Sig.
Corrected Model burstingstrength 18960,607a 8 2370,076 15,818 ,000
Bursting distention 51.510b 8 6.439 5.319 .000
Intercept Bursting strength 1744002.427 1 1744002.427 11639.279 .000
Bursting distention 39049.230 1 39049.230 32257.281 .000
Temperature Bursting strength 830.646 2 415.323 2.772 .076
Bursting distention 10.007 2 5.004 4.133 .024
Draftratio Bursting strength 13029.448 2 6514.724 43.479 .000
Bursting distention 15.543 2 7.772 6.420 .004
Temperature * Bursting strength 5100.513 4 1275.128 8.510 .000
Draftratio Bursting distention 25.960 4 6.490 5.361 .002
Error Bursting strength 5394.156 36 149.838
Bursting distention 43.580 36 1.211
Total Bursting strength 1768357.190 45
Bursting distention 39144.320 45
Corrected Total Bursting strength 24354.763 44
Bursting distention 95.090 44
a. R Squared = .779 (Adjusted R Squared = .729)
b. R Squared = .542 (Adjusted R Squared = .440)

Table 4. Multiple comparison of bursting distention performance with regard to temperature effect
Mean 95% Confidence Interval
Difference Lower Upper
Dependent Variable (I) Temperature (J) Temperature (I-J) Std. Error Sig. Bound Bound
200 .2667 .40176 .786 -.7153 1.2487
175
225 -.8400 .40176 .106 -1.8220 .1420
175 -.2667 .40176 .786 -1.2487 .7153
bursting distention 200
225 -1.1067* .40176 .024 -2.0887 -.1247
175 .8400 .40176 .106 -.1420 1.8220
225
200 1.1067* .40176 .024 .1247 2.0887
Based on observed means.
The error term is Mean Square(Error) = 1.211.
*. The mean difference is significant at the .05 level.

In order to compare the bursting strength and distension performances of the fabric samples in relation to the
draw ratio changes, multiple comparison test was applied (Table 5). According to multiple comparison test
(Table 5), it is determined that there is significant difference between each draw ratio values in terms of
bursting strength performance. As the draw ratio value increases, the bursting strength value decreases. This
situation can be explained with the effect draw ratio on polymer crystallinity. As the draw ratio increases, it
will cause higher orientation between monomers and higher crystallinity. The higher crystallinity of polymer
results in higher strength and rigidity. On the other hand, higher crystallinity will decrease the polymer
elongation. It can be concluded that this lower elongation value makes the fabric material less resistive to
bursting strength under multi-directional tensile forces. In accordance with the bursting distension
comparison, it is determined that there is significant difference between 1.6 draw ratio and other two draw
ratios of 1.2 and 1.4. There is no significant difference between the bursting distention performances of fabric
samples 1.2 and 1.4 draw ratios.

4
Bursting Strength of Knitted Fabrics Produced from of Polybutylene Terephthalate (PBT) Yarns with
Different False-Twist Texturing Parameters
Halil İbrahim Çelik , Esin Sarıoğlu, Hatice Kübra Kaynak
Table 5. Multiple comparison of bursting strength and distention performance with regard to draw ratio effect
95% Confidence
Interval
(I) Mean Difference Lower Upper
Dependent Variable Draftratio (J) Draftratio (I-J) Std. Error Sig. Bound Bound
bursting strength 1.2 1.4 18.8667* 4.46972 .000 7.9414 29.7920
1.6 41.6200* 4.46972 .000 30.6947 52.5453
1.4 1.2 -18.8667* 4.46972 .000 -29.7920 -7.9414
1.6 22.7533* 4.46972 .000 11.8280 33.6786
1.6 1.2 -41.6200* 4.46972 .000 -52.5453 -30.6947
1.4 -22.7533* 4.46972 .000 -33.6786 -11.8280
bursting distention 1.2 1.4 -.0133 .40176 .999 -.9953 .9687
1.6 1.2400* .40176 .011 .2580 2.2220
1.4 1.2 .0133 .40176 .999 -.9687 .9953
1.6 1.2533* .40176 .010 .2713 2.2353
1.6 1.2 -1.2400* .40176 .011 -2.2220 -.2580
1.4 -1.2533* .40176 .010 -2.2353 -.2713
Based on observed means.
The error term is Mean Square(Error) = 1.211.
*. The mean difference is significant at the .05 level.

4. CONCLUSION
As a result of the study, it is concluded that texturing temperature parameter has significant effect only on
bursting distension performance. Draw ratio of the filaments has significant effect (p<0.05) on both bursting
strength and distension performances. However, it can be revealed that the bursting strength values of the
fabric samples decreases with the temperature increases. On the other hand, there is significant difference
between each draw ratio values in terms of bursting strength performance. As the draw ratio increases, the
bursting strength decreases. In accordance with the bursting distension comparison, it is determined that there
is only significant difference between 1.6 draw ratio and other two draw ratios of 1.2 and 1.4.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT
Authors are grateful to Özkaya Group and Kasım GÜLLÜ for their cooperation and contribution.

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 BIOGRAPHY
H.İbrahim ÇELİK was born in 1981 in Gaziantep Turkey. He graduated from Gaziantep University Textile
Engineering Department in 2004. He received M.Sc. degree in 2007 from Gaziantep University Textile
Engineering Department and Ph.D. degree in 2013 from Gaziantep University Mechanical Engineering
Department. In 2005, he joined Gaziantep University Textile Engineering Department as a research assistant
and became Assistant Professor in 2014. His current research interests include weaving technology, woven
fabrics, textile quality, image processing, machine vision systems, neural network.

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